the
dish winter 2015
ICE CREAM slow food
always in season
AT UW-MADISON
recipes: pumpkin cheesecake spiced butternut squash homemade hot chocolate www.thedishmadison.com
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the
dish
12
HOT CHOCOLATE
table of contents
4 6
THE DISH TEAM
food for thought
EDITOR’s NOTE
in the kitchen
8
15
SLOW FOOD
PUMPKIN CHEESECAKE
10
SPICED BUTTERNUT SQUASH
20 22
COLLEGE VEGAN FOOD PANTRY ON CAMPUS
TABLE OF CONTENTS -2-
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24
MEALS BUILD COMMUNITY
38
ESTRELLON
no reservations
27 32 34
36
ICE CREAM FOOD CARTS GREEN OWL
FORAGE
42 45
46
JONNY HUNTER FOREQUARTER
ANDY JACK
TABLE OF CONTENTS -3-
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THE dish TEAM
Photo by Yuling Hu
editor-in-chief Meghan Horvath
NO RES EDITOR LaYOUT EDITOR
FFT EDITOR
Jordan Peschek
Emily Zellers
Liz Schnee
BLOG EDITOR
COPY EDITOR
MARKETING
Emily Yee
Kara Evenson
Ali Castriano
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DISHIES IN THE KITCHEN WRITERS
NO RESERVATIONS WRITERS
Amelia Chen Libby Geboy Annie McGrail
Ashley Hampton Liz Schnee Daniella Byck
Joshua Bartels Madison Fortman Claire Hornacek AlI Castriano MIa Shehadi Annaleigh Wetzel Liz Schnee Jordan Peschek
ASSISTANT COPY EDITOR
PHOTOGRAPHERS
FOOD FOR THOUGHT WRITERS
MeGHAN HORVATH ALi Folino Yuling Hu amber Liu Zac Alphonse Marra
Audrey Altmann
LAYOUT Emily Zellers cLAire Hornacek MeGHAN HORVATH
STAFF -5-
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A note from the Editor
Dear Readers, While many people eat to live, there are a select few who truly live to eat. I’ve long fell into the latter category. From taking pictures of food, reviewing restaurants, watching food being prepared or experimenting on my own with recipes, food is a passion. Developing out of a love for baking, this supreme interest has since grown into a career aspiration. I started with The Dish in my freshman year at UW-Madison as a No Reservations writer before serving as No Reservations Editor and now Editor-in-Chief. I’ve loved tapping into the rich culinary scene that Madison has to offer and expressing these findings through The Dish. We strive to inform and inspire on all fronts related to food. The publication is crafted as a platform for students to express their fondness for dining out, speaking with chefs, cooking, baking and investigating current food issues. With sections representing most foodie interests and a newly added blog section, our writers are free to share their unique connection to food. This year especially, the section editors and I have sought to build a community of Dishies who feel encouraged to collaborate and learn from other students involved in the publication. The various majors and backgrounds of our members bring a colorful assortment of skills and it’s been our goal this year to connect these students so that their participation in The Dish can be a rich learning experience. With a great group of writers, designers, photographers, copy editors and social media folk, I’m proud of the work we’ve accomplished in this semester alone. Our collaboration with Slow Food UW for the first time at the beginning of October was a rewarding experience as we were able to prepare a meal for the community with locally sourced ingredients. Slow Food’s commitment to sustainability is the direction that we took for our publication this semester. The event inspired our focus on local chefs, ingredients and recipes. From our writers, editors and design team at The Dish, we hope you enjoy the collection of articles and photos to follow.
Happy eating,
Meghan Horvath Editor-in-Chief
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in the kitchen Whether you’re a seasoned veteran or just starting off in the kitchen, here is a collection of recipes from our In The Kitchen writers that anyone can tackle. From homemade hot chocolate to delicately seasoned butternut squash and indulgent pumpkin cheesecake, prepare for delicious.
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Photo by Zac Alphonse Marra
Photo by Annie McGrail
Photo by Meghan Horvath
Photo by Meghan Horvath
11/9/15 10:35 PM
pumpkin cheesecake By Amelia Chen
I’m such a sucker for pumpkin season. And judging by the amount of foods and drinks that highlight pumpkin as the leaves change, so is everyone else. No other fruit masquerading as a vegetable is more iconic than the pumpkin. It can represent fall. It can represent the holidays. It can be sweet. It can be savory. And if you’re like me, someone who stocks up on canned pumpkin when it’s on sale, then it can really be a year-round treat.
By now people have discarded their Halloween jack-o’-lanterns and all the Thanksgiving pumpkin pies have been made and devoured, but that doesn’t mean you still can’t snuggle up by the fireplace (or an electric heater) with a slice of comfort in the form of pumpkin. And what better comfort is there than a creamy, dense, sweet pumpkin cheesecake. I have a soft spot for cheesecake because it’s the first dessert that didn’t come out of my
oven a disaster. It’s deceptively easy for such a luxurious crowd-pleaser, and after several dozen variations, it’s the only dessert I can throw together without the help of Google. Now, making a pumpkin cheesecake every year is the only holiday tradition I strictly adhere to. Perfect after a dinner of mac and cheese and beer, of course. It’s winter; you deserve to indulge a little.
IN THE KITCHEN Pumpkin Cheesecake -8-
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Photos by Amelia Chen
Gingersnap cookie crust adapted from King Arthur Flour
¾ cup vegetable shortening ½ cup dark brown sugar ¾ cup sugar (split) ½ teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons baking soda 1 large egg 1/3 cup dark corn syrup (or molasses) 2 cups all-purpose flour 1/3 cup whole wheat flour 2 teaspoons ground ginger ½ teaspoon ground cloves 2 teaspoons cinnamon (split)
Directions Preheat oven to 375F. Beat the shortening, ½ cup sugar, brown sugar, salt and baking soda together until smooth. Add egg and syrup. Mix thoroughly. Fold in flours and spices until uniform, forming a stiff dough. Line cookie sheet with parchment paper. Combine ¼ cup sugar and 1 teaspoon cinnamon to make coating. Form one-inch balls and roll in cinnamon sugar to coat. Place cookies on sheet with 1 ½ inches between them. Keep the cinnamon sugar coating for finishing garnish. Bake for 13 minutes for crispy cookies. Allow to cool completely.
Pumpkin cheesecake A dozen or so gingersnap cookies 3 tablespoons butter, melted 16 oz of cream cheese (two 8 oz packs) ½ cup sugar 2 large eggs 1/3 cup sour cream ½ cup pureed pumpkin ½ teaspoon cinnamon ¼ teaspoon ground cloves ¼ teaspoon ground ginger
Directions Preheat oven to 350F. Place a dish of water on the bottom rack — this will prevent cracking in the cheesecake. To form the crust, crumble and smash cookies in freezer bag or food processor. Mix with melted butter and press into base of cheesecake pan. Bake for 10 minutes to set. For cheesecake base, beat cream cheese and sugar until smooth. Beat in eggs one at a time. Mix in sour cream and pumpkin puree. Mix in spices. Pour base over crust. The batter is on the thicker side, so smooth it out with a spatula or lightly shake pan. Bake for 40-45 minutes. Let cool completely. Dust with reserved cinnamon sugar and serve.
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spiced butternut squash 1 medium butternut squash, peeled 1-2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon cinnamon 1 tablespoon allspice Fresh ground black pepper Salt Optional: honey
By libby geboy
Directions 1 2
Preheat the oven to 400F.
Cut the butternut squash in half, and scoop out the seeds. Cut the squash into rough one-inch cubes.
3
Toss the cubes in olive oil, then sprinkle with the cinnamon, allspice, black pepper and salt until evenly coated.
4
Spread the squash in an even layer on a parchment lined baking sheet. Bake for 30-45 minutes, until tender.
5
Photos by Libby Geboy
Drizzle with honey, if desired.
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squash olive oil allspice
Photo by Meghan Horvath
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hot chocolate • 2 cups milk • ¼ cup half & half • 2 tablespoons good quality Dutch cocoa powder • ¼ cup sugar • ¼ teaspoon pure vanilla extract Photo by Annie McGrail
By Annie McGrail As a Midwest native, I have grown up with cold weather and have survived many freezing months. As another winter approaches, I remember back to those chilly days as a kid, living for the rare chance when school would be cancelled because of the snow. The joy of those cold winter days wasn’t just playing in the snow or sledding down the hill. It was the joy that came from a steaming cup of hot chocolate that greeted me when I came into the house. This delicious drink has helped me survive many Midwest winters. In fact, over the past few, I have become a hot chocolate enthusiast. Growing up, I always used the classic hot chocolate packets that only required the addition of water. In search of the ultimate hot chocolate, I soon started to try new types. Some used dark chocolate and gave a rich flavor and others used the trick of subbing milk for water to add creaminess. Eventually I decided to make my own from scratch, which is when I discovered my favorite hot chocolate. Whether I am walking in the cold to class, just getting back from sledding or curling up by the fire, nothing is better than a big mug of rich hot chocolate made from my own recipe.
Directions In a small saucepan, whisk together the cocoa, sugar and half & half over a medium-low heat until the cocoa and sugar are dissolved. Turn the heat up to medium and whisk in the milk. Continue whisking until heated through. Stir in the vanilla and serve. If desired, serve with a spoonful of whipped cream or chocolate shavings on top. To add a little spice to your hot chocolate add a cinnamon stick or a pinch of cinnamon. For the holidays, turn it into delicious peppermint hot chocolate by adding a drop of peppermint extract and serve with a peppermint stick or candy cane.
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JOIN OUR TEAM
FFT Editor
Copy Editor
Blog Editor Marketing No Res Editor Director
Layout Editor
Editor-in-chief
Photo by Yuling Hu
Introducing The Dish Blog
Dear Readers, Your appetite for honest recollections of our culinary journeys is the driving force for The Dish’s Blog section, and I cannot thank you enough for welcoming my bloggers and me. My misadventures as a Food Science major are published on the site for your amusement. To join the likes of Food For Thought, In The Kitchen and No Reservations on The Dish is a pretty sweet deal. We’re excited to share our unique experiences with food by adding a more personal and quirky touch to the magazine. Enjoy the many tales to come!
Emily Yee BLoG EDITOR
check us out at www.thedishmadison.com
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A note from the Food For Thought Editor
Dear Readers, When reading this issue, I encourage you to let yourself feel nourished. Nourish your body by trying some of the delectable recipes from In the Kitchen, nourish your social life by experiencing one of Madison’s new restaurants reviewed by No Reservations, or give yourself some Food for Thought and nourish your mind with current food issues and ideas. I have thoroughly enjoyed my first semester as the editor for Food for Thought. Our talented staff of writers and photographers have used their passion for gastronomy to shine light on Madison’s role in food, and I have been happy to help. When I’m not gushing about nutrition, cooking and food justice with The Dish staff, I am probably gushing about it elsewhere. I believe food has an immense role on our lives, and I look forward to examining that role from many different lenses. In this edition, our writers sought to understand the importance of food as more than just feeding the body. Daniella Byck explored the strong sense of friendship and community that comes along with sharing meals as a college student. Ashley Hampton looked at a growing alternative diet that can bring more energy and vibrancy to life. I then looked at current student efforts to alleviate food insecurity right here on campus. Also, check out the collage of our Family Dinner Night at Slow Food UW that brought the Madison community together over a sustainable autumnal meal. So I hope you enjoy, and after you feel saturated with nourishment, go ahead and share the feeling with a friend.
Bon appetit,
Liz Schnee FOOD FOR THOUGHT EDITOR
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slow food Here is a collection of recipes and quotes from our collaboration with Slow Food UW, a student-run organization on campus committed to sustainability and the local food movement. Slow Food UW serves weekly meals for the community in addition to other outreach projects they sponsor throughout the month .
Photos by Zac Alphonse Marra
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Farro with Roasted Butternut Squash, Kale and Cranberries • 1 pound butternut squash, peeled, seeded and diced into one-inch cubes • 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil (split) • Salt and pepper to taste • 4 cups vegetable or chicken stock • 1 small onion, finely diced • 2 cloves fresh garlic, minced • ¼ teaspoon dried thyme • ½ teaspoon fresh ground black pepper • 2 cups pearled farro, rinsed and drained • 1 bunch fresh kale, tough stems removed, finely chopped • ½ cup of dried cranberries (can substitute chopped, dried apricot or golden raisins) • ¼ cup freshly grated parmesan (optional) • ½ cup sliced or slivered almonds toasted (optional)
Directions
BY Jenni Wolf
adapted from milkfreemom.com and vegetariantimes.com
1
Preheat the oven to 400F. Toss the cubed butternut squash with one teaspoon of oil, season with salt and pepper to taste. Roast squash for 30 minutes, or until tender.
2
While the squash is roasting, heat the remaining one teaspoon of oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the diced onion and cook until soft and translucent. Next, add the garlic, thyme and black pepper to the pot. Cook for an additional 2 minutes, or just until fragrant.
3
Add the farro and vegetable or chicken stock to the pot, cover and bring to a boil.
4
Lower heat and simmer for about 15 minutes, or until the farro is soft and chewy. Drain out excess stock if desired.
5
Spread the squash in an even layer on a parchment lined baking sheet. Bake for 30-45 minutes, until tender.
6
Stir in the kale and cranberries, cooking only another minute or two, or until the kale is wilted.
7 Gently fold in the roasted butternut squash. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
8
Garnish with grated parmesan and toasted almonds if desired.
Serve and enjoy!
FOOD FOR THOUGHT Slow Food -16-
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Mixed green salad • • • •
Chocolate dipped crackers
2 apples 4 cups mixed greens 2 cups spinach 1 cup candied pecans (homemade or purchased)
For balsamic vinaigrette: • 4 tablespoons olive oil • 2 teaspoons dijon mustard • 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar • 2 teaspoons honey • Salt and pepper
• • • • •
2 cups melted dark chocolate chips 1 package water table crackers 2 tablespoons fennel seeds ½ cup fresh ginger ½ cup dried cranberries
Directions
Directions Combine olive oil, dijon mustard, balsamic vinegar, honey and salt and pepper for dressing. Mix mixed greens and fresh spinach. Add chopped apples and candied pecans. Toss with dressing.
Melt dark chocolate chips until smooth in double boiler or in microwave, stopping to stir frequently. You may need to add vegetable oil if chocolate becomes too solid. Dip crackers ¾ of the way into chocolate mixture. Place on parchment paper on baking sheet. Sprinkle 4-6 fennel seeds, 2-3 cranberries, and 2-3 small chunks of ginger onto crackers. Place in fridge, or let set in room temperature for a few hours. Finished crackers last in fridge or freezer for up to 1 week.
FOOD FOR THOUGHT Slow Food -18-
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“I’m beyond grateful for the opportunity to collaborate with Slow Food. The organization deserves credit for all the work they put in each week to feed the community a homemade meal from locally-sourced ingredients. Their work ethic and commitment to sustainability is impressive and I’m so glad The Dish was able to work alongside their interns and help their mission.”
Meghan Horvath
Editor-in-chief of the dish
“Home to me is the feeling that you get when you sit down for a meal and feel perfectly at ease. During the hour that I was at the family dinner night, I felt like I was home again. The food was delicious, exciting and still invitingly familiar. My excitement about trying a new dish was rivaled only by the joy of meeting new friends.”
Emmett Motl
Editor-in-chief of Illumination “Family dinner night at Slow Food is great because you get to sit down and enjoy food without worrying about cooking, cleaning, etc. The setup of the event allows the group you come with to mingle with other people, so it’s also a great way to get to know people. The food is delicious too—so that helps!”
Rachel Wanat
Director of WUD Publications Committee “Collaborating with Slow Food to make delicious dishes for the public was such a rewarding experience! I was able to eat tasty food and also gain satisfaction knowing that we used clean and organic ingredients.”
Janey Sheth
the dish In The Kitchen Writer “Being able to cook for Family Dinner Night was an amazing honor for me. I had so much fun designing the menu and being creative, and then preparing the meal with the talented interns. And, I got to learn what the farmer’s market looks like at 7 a.m. when you can still walk both directions!”
“Working behind the scenes with this great organization was such a cool experience. I loved seeing the passion for wholesome, local food that the students have. Seeing how they transfer this passion into an amazing meal for our community was inspiring.”
Ali Castriano
Liz Schnee THE DISH Food for thought editor
The dish Marketing Director
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Photos by Ashley Hampton
Raw Vegan Lifestyle
By Ashley Hampton
Ashley Hampton is a writer for The Dish at UW-Madison who practices a raw vegan diet, meaning that she doesn't eat foods that have been cooked or processed. This translates to no pasta, baked goods, or cooked vegetables. This also means animal products like meat and cheese are a no-go. This kind of diet needs to be followed carefully in order to ensure proper nutrition but, when done correctly, can offer health benefits as an alternative for more naturally produced food.
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Imagine a lifestyle where you could eat as much as you want while experiencing a healthy weight, clear skin, increased energy and more. A raw food diet is composed of three groups: fruits, veggies, and nuts or seeds. This means that everything I eat is unrefined and fresh. When eating this way, you have to make sure that you are eating in abundance. In the beginning, I kept track of the food that I was eating to ensure that I was getting all the nutrients I needed in order to maintain a healthy lifestyle. I follow a “low-fat raw vegan diet,” so my calories are preferably 80 percent from simple carbohydrates, 10 percent from protein and 10 percent from fat. I feel my best when I eat
roughly around this ratio. You might be thinking that this is simply crazy and that I must suffer from cravings all the time, but that is false.
“
energy levels are higher, my sweet tooth is always satisfied, my skin and eyes are clearer and my overall quality of life has changed in the best way possible. I am so grateful for what raw foods have done for me and I hope I can inspire you to incorporate more food from the Earth into your everyday diet as well. As a college student, I have found this way of eating to be extremely adaptable and affordable with little effort and a lot of passion for being healthy.
Now, I can’t imagine turning back and eating a “conventional” diet.
When I came upon this lifestyle over a year ago, I may have agreed with you that this diet is extreme. Now, I can’t imagine turning back and eating a conventional diet. My
”
Here’s my secret recipe for a perfect smoothie every time: •
1/3 of the solid ingredients should be frozen fruit
•
1/3 of the solid ingredients should be fresh, ripe fruit
•
1/3 of the solid ingredients should be greens (such as kale, spinach, romaine)
•
1/3 of the blender should be filled with water after the ingredients are added
A smoothie is a super healthy and affordable way to get in your daily greens in a delicious drink that is filled with vitamins, minerals and nutrients that will keep you feeling good and energized throughout the day!
If you are interested in learning more about eating “raw vegan,” you can check out Hampton’s social media accounts or contact her at rawincollege@gmail.com! Instagram: @rawincollege
Blog: www.rawincollege.com
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Students Battle Food Insecurity on Campus
By Liz Schnee A student-run food pantry is set to open at UW-Madison in spring 2016 to serve students in need. The newest resource run by the Associated Students of Madison (ASM) will provide students with access to nonperishable food with the same convenience as eating at the dining halls and will address the issue of food insecurity among students, a pressing problem that often slips through the cracks of conversation. The project is temporarily being called The Pantry, and is a collaborative
project directed by current students Alison Montenegro, Jamie de Moya-Cotter, and Samantha (Sam) Arriozola. Former ASM chair members Derek Field and Genevieve Carter also played a role in the initial idea for the project. Having access to a free, reliable food source is an urgent need for students across the country. Sam Arriozola explains her role by saying, “We were called into action here. People don’t like talking about it, but we have a huge student body at this campus and we should acknowledge that there are disparities.” In
addition to midterms and graduating, some students are burdened with the additional daily anxiety of finding a way to buy a meal. The Pantry will be located in a kitchen facility in the Student Activity Center near the ASM offices and the amount of students served will depend on the amount of food that is donated, as well as the amount of student volunteers who can contribute in running the pantry. Fortunately for students, there won’t be a lot of hoops to jump through in order to access The Pantry. Current UW-Madison students who decide
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they need additional assistance will simply be provided the ability to pick up food from the location. When asked why this project is necessary, Sam replied, “I could never imagine going through this alone. And I was able to get here, so in being part of something like this, I want to help out anyone who is currently going through it.”
opening a second location near the Lakeshore dorms and providing access during the summer term. For the time being, Alison Montenegro reports, “We’re contacting UWHousing, UHS, churches and the advising services to find donors for food and supplies and we’re talking to student organizations to spread the word to members who might benefit.” Other details are still in the works, and are subject to change. One thing is certain, though — ASM student segregated fees will not be charged with buying the food, although they will be paying the student
“Feed a student. Feed the future.”
Potential long term goals for The Pantry include
staff involved. All food will be donated by grocery stores, fellow students and local businesses. The university has a goal of offering every student the support and opportunities necessary to succeed. Clearly, the lack of consistent access to food needs to be directly acknowledged and combated in order for progress to be made. All three UW student leaders are passionate about bringing this project to fruition. According to Jamie, “UWMadison is one of the best schools out there, and the best schools should provide programs like this so that students don’t have to think about these basic issues.” Students interested in getting involved in any capacity are encouraged to email thepantry@asm.wisc.edu.
Photos by Yuling Hu
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MEALS AS COMMUNITY BUILDERS By Daniella Byck The statistics are there, a Google search away: eating dinner with the family is just better for kids finding their way in the world. But I don’t need pie charts and bar graphs or men in white coats scratching beards as long as their PhD thesis to tell me that. Growing up at the dinner table, laughing until I choked on my mom’s broccoli was the centrifugal force of our family. The dinner table is the picture frame in which I see my family member’s identities, as father
and daughter or sister and brother. Coming to college, a part of me feared what my life would be like without the fixture of family dinner. However by second semester freshman year, I could be found making my daily pilgrimage to my favorite table in the dining hall, and this year I have settled into meals in my sorority kitchen surrounded by friends who have become family. It is almost like a chicken and egg conundrum: did the relationships precede the hours spent eating turkey sandwiches
under fluorescent dining hall lights or did the act of dining together create the strong bonds that have elevated my college experience? For Karsten Düchting, a German exchange student living in Madison’s International Cooperative House (ICH), meals are a time to come together for conversation. As a member of the ICH, Düchting is one of 28 residents who dwell in the house. Each week, two members drive to a grocery store to buy food in bulk to cook for the other tenants and serve on the large table where all 28 occupants share
Photo by Jennifer Beth
Photo courtesy The Dish staff
Photo courtesy The Dish staff
Photo by Jennifer Beth
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Photo by Zac Alphonse Marra
a meal. Düchting describes how, from time to time, the diners will pose questions both funny and intimate. Far from home, Düchting ’s face lights up as he thinks back to his answer to one of the questions. “Sometimes you want to share something,” he smiles. “For example, when there was the question of what I’m grateful for, I said I was grateful for my little nephew, others say I’m just very grateful for the meal I’m eating right now.” In this sense, despite lodging with over two dozen unique individuals, mealtime represents a point in the day when their lives intersect and their stories are shared, bringing a sense of familiarity so far from home. Meanwhile, for many students, mealtime represents a welcomed rescue from the stress of schoolwork. Alyssa Immell, a freshman living in a Southeast dormitory, thinks about her times in the Gordon Dining Hall as “a break from classes and studying. Now you can focus on people.” Immell’s floormate Randi Rubinstein agrees, stating that her favorite mealtime memory thus far has been “late night waffles with some new friends. It was really nice because it was a break from the
library to enjoy a snack before getting back to work.” And this sentiment is not just bound to dorm life. As an engineering major living in an off-campus apartment, Emma Boykin rarely gets the chance to see her roommate, a music major, during the day. However, each morning begins with a text determining when they will break away from their work for some time together, revolving around a meal. “We give each other that hour and a half of being home and getting to cook together to talk and catch up on each others’ day,” Boykin shares with me from the counter of their shared kitchen, the hub of their apartment. She’s getting ready to study for the next day’s midterm, but not without their daily mealtime ritual.
“
be like, who hasn’t had lunch yet? And then you’ll all go together,” says Zoe Federbusch, a freshman from the East Coast for whom food has been a major point of assimilation into the University’s population. Similar to Federbusch, Boykin sees food as the way in which she and her roommate show each other they care. “I had a really rough week,” Boykin says. “And she woke up early at 6:45 a.m. to put together this whole meal for me. It was the best feeling in the world.”
mealtime represents a point in the day when their lives intersect and their stories are shared.
Ultimately, food is at the core of where students connect as a community. “People will
”
Whether a freshman or a graduate student, an engineer or music major, student or community member, living in a co-op or a dormitory, meals are central to how we connect. Food is more than sustenance; it is where we build our community and create our own version of the time honored family dinner.
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A note from the No Reservations Editor
Dear Readers,
Madison, Wisconsin is a place like no other. It ranks as the second-largest city in the state, but its cultural diversity, strong support of community events, and abundance of local businesses emanate a “small town city” vibe. There is so much to do within a few blocks of the Capitol Square in the heart of Madison. One can jump around at a Badger game, tour the beautiful UW campus, visit a myriad of local shops, and visit other points of interest within walking distance of the town center. With hundreds of unique restaurants located in the same few blocks, it should be no surprise that Madison’s local food scene ranks as one of the strongest in the country. The food culture is a favorite feature of this small town city. Madison is surrounded by lakes, farmland and other natural resources. Local farmers sell fresh produce at the Dane County Farmers market and many restaurants proudly support these local growers and producers. Chefs are drawn to the booming food industry in Madison, and their incorporation of local, seasonal foods in their menus is inspiring. My love of writing about Madison’s food scene stems from the focus on using farm-to-table, honest-to-goodness local foods in restaurants, cafes, and homes. I am passionate about supporting local farmers, businesses, and restaurants because this contributes to the health of the community, economic stability, and culture that make Madison unique. The writers of No Reservations have interviewed local chefs, reviewed restaurant offerings, sampled the city’s best frozen treats, and found the finest food cart offerings in the area. We encourage all to do some digging and find personal food favorites in Madison. In this city with unlimited offerings, the only thing you will need is an appetite.
Jordan Peschek NO RESERVATIONS EDITOR
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Photos by Meghan Horvath
madison’s TOP CHILLY DESSERTS BY JOSHUA BARTELS
It’s about to get cold outside. Like, really cold. So ask your parents to send you your winter jacket, grab your gloves out of the drawer, shove on your thick boots and prepare for the worst. While some of us may not survive, it’s
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sure that our appetite for ice cream will never perish, no matter what the temperature is outside. And who could blame us? We have some of the coolest ice cream shops and parlors right here in Madison. From the Chocolate Shoppe
to Babcock Dairy and beyond, there are enough tastes and flavors to amaze even the strictest food critic. So join me, for a small taste of what Madison has to offer. Starting on campus and moving along State Street, here are some of Madison’s best stops for everyone’s favorite frozen treat.
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BABCOCK HALL DAIRY STORE 1605 linden dr. Iwithf you’re ever hungry for a quick meal ending a delicious dessert, then look no further than
the Babcock Hall Dairy Store. Located on the UW-Madison campus, this store sells fresh-made ice cream as well as sandwiches, wraps, quesadillas and various cheeses. The Babcock Dairy Store first opened its doors in 1951 and today is the oldest university dairy building in the U.S. Since its creation, the store has been dishing out some of Madison’s favorite ice cream. After several visits, I have to say my top flavor is Caramel Apple, but Chocolate Turtle is a close second. Do not feel limited to just a normal dish of ice cream here, however. The Babcock Hall Dairy Store offers malts, shakes, various sundaes, ice cream sandwiches and even ice cream pies that are to die for. Ice cream can also be purchased in various sizes, from a small cone to a three gallon tub. Either bring some home to share with friends or dig in by yourself after a tough exam. I won’t judge.
Popular and Unique Flavors · · · · · ·
Fifth Quarter Berry Alvarez Cinnamon Snickerdoodle Caramel Apple Orange Custard Chocolate Chip Mocha Macchiato
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CHOCOLATE SHOPPE ICE CREAM 468 state st. O ne cannot write an article about ice cream in Madison without including the Chocolate Shoppe. Of all the places in this article, the Chocolate Shoppe has by far the largest selection of flavors. There are 81 flavors listed online, not including the Italian ice, no sugar added, sherbet, non-fat Greek yogurt and non-dairy soy flavors. My personal favorite is a toss-up between Cherry Amaretto Fudge, Caramel Chaos and Peanut Butter Cup. But truth be told, every flavor is fantastic.
While there is a high variety customers can choose from, the owners take more pride in that they have super-premium ice cream. What gives their ice cream this designation? For ice cream to gain such a label, it needs to contain 14 percent butterfat. This adds to the creamy texture and creates a delicious taste for the enjoyment of the consumer. Nothing takes priority to taste here, as the store’s slogan reads: “You want nutrition, eat carrots.” Though it may not be the healthiest option in the world, you can be sure there will always be tons of flavor in each bite, lick or spoonful.
Popular and Unique Flavors · · · · · ·
Pistachio Nut Zanzibar® Chocolate ZOREO Heaps of Love Green Tea Sticks & Stones
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LA COPPA GELATO 341 state st. La Coppa Gelato is the perfect place for any health nut with a sweet tooth or anyone who enjoys ice cream in general. Why? Because the gelato at La Coppa Gelato is not only delicious, it also contains only 6.9 percent fat, which is significant considering American ice cream can contain up to 18 percent or more butter fat. What’s more, La Coppa Gelato does not sacrifice any flavor to get these sweet benefits. If anything, it is richer, smoother and tastes even better than ice cream. The owners learned how to create such a delicious treat through connections with an Italian café in Europe. In fact,
a good portion of their ingredients still come from Italy in order to obtain the authenticity they hold so dear. Many of their dishes reflect their Italian background and have very artful and awe-inspiring designs. My favorite dish, Spaghetti Pomodore, reflects this especially well. It is a concoction of your favorite flavor, sent through a spaghetti press, poured on top of a small amount of whipped cream and covered with strawberry syrup, white chocolate morsels and a waffle cone wafer. It’s like ice cream but healthier, and it looks like spaghetti: Now, what’s not to love about that?
Popular and Unique Flavors · Pretzel Chocolate Malt · · · · ·
Princess Peach Bacio (Chocolate Hazelnut Nutella) Irish Whiskey White Chocolate Raspberry Mocha Maple Bourbon Pecan
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KILWINS 208 state st. While Kilwins may be located near the top of State Street, it is definitely worth the extra walk. Not only does Kilwins serve ice cream, it also produces many flavors of Mackinac Island-style fudge, large peanut butter cups, caramel apples, brittles, caramel corn and hand-dipped chocolate products sure to satisfy any hungry customer with a sweet tooth. One great aspect of Kilwins is the atmosphere. While exploring the array of various snacks to try, one can simultaneously observe the employees creating the delicious treats right behind the counter. The employees are good-natured and very helpful when asked any questions about their products. After a tough time deciding on a flavor, they recommended that I try the Salted Caramel ice cream. Seconds later, I understood why. The ice cream was filled with flavor; my taste buds were swimming in a pool of thick caramel sprinkled with a perfect amount of salty surprise. Every other ice cream flavor I have tried at Kilwins since has produced similar sensations. I left Kilwins with a smile on my face and anyone else who tries it will likely do the same. So why not? It may be a few minutes farther from campus, but you will be glad you went.
Popular and Unique Flavors · · · · · ·
Cinnamon Crumb Cake Heavenly Hash Salted Caramel Rum Raisin Mud Kilwins Tracks
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food carts on library mall
Photo by Yuling Hu
BY MADISON FORTMAN It’s just as lunchtime rolls around that the lingering burn in my stomach begins to make weird noises. Anxiety slowly sets in as everyone sitting near me in lecture glances over at my growling stomach. It is safe to say that I need to get a hold of this hunger situation. Operation: Need Lunch Now, is in full swing. As a student, it’s often not possible to return to a dorm, apartment or house during a short lunch break between classes. I live on Langdon Street, and it’s rare that I make it back home to eat within my allotted lunchtime. So where to go?
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Most students have walked through Library Mall at the end of State Street on a weekday to find a plethora of food carts. If any of them are like me and need to tackle Operation: Need Lunch Now, this little strip of food carts will become a new best friend. The array of food options is enormous, from Thai to Peruvian to Mexican. No matter what you are in the mood for, taste buds will be satisfied. These carts are a great option as there is always something new to try. The low cost of these foods carts adds to their appeal. With $10 in your pocket, a meal from any food cart is an option. The last thing we want as college students is to spend money, but the flavor of pita sandwich from the Banzo food cart is well-worth the expense and far more satisfying than the ramen noodles waiting for you at home. If you have yet to sample the menu at Banzo, it is an absolute must. The Mediterranean-inspired food cart offers different pita sandwiches and platters that are perfect for tackling Operation: Need Lunch Now. If you struggle to make decisions, especially in regard to food selection, I would recommend the F-Bomb platter, as it gives you a taste of everything the cart has to offer. The platter consists of two falafel, chicken, hummus, pita, rice, salad (a mixture of diced cucumber, onion, tomatoes) and chips. All of
that for $9. Not only is it a deal, it puts typical subs and sandwiches to shame. It is just that good. The falafel is crisp, the hummus is wellflavored with garlic yet not overbearing, and the chicken is tender and well seasoned. After devouring the F-Bomb platter, you may find yourself on the verge of a food coma, but it is absolutely worth it. For anyone craving south of the border inspired cuisine, there is a food cart to satisfy all taco, burrito, and nacho needs. Cali Fresh is a Mexican food cart with a California twist. The taco platter is a popular item that is reasonably priced at $7 (a single taco is $3). The platter includes two tacos plus rice and beans. The chicken tacos are garnished with fresh cabbage, cilantro and onion. I recommend adding hot salsa to the tacos for a spicy kick, though there is a milder option for those with more sensitive taste buds. This meal is savory and filling, not to mention convenient to grab on the way to the library for afternoon studying. I am a big taco lover in general, but Cali Fresh definitely cooks up something amazing. I tried to savor every last bite of the juicy, zesty tacos, and I will definitely be a repeat customer. While all the carts are satisfying, Fresh Cool Drinks is the one I first tried and is one of my favorites. Though this cart boasts fresh fruit smoothies, most customers wait in line for the
spring rolls. At 12:30 p.m. on the day I tried the food cart, the line was rather long but absolutely worth the wait. I ordered a chicken avocado spring roll with medium sauce. With a sauce choice of hot, medium or mild, medium is the perfect balance between the two. A chicken avocado spring roll is made up of avocado, chicken, lettuce, cucumber, carrot, cabbage and rice noodle, all wrapped up in a rice paper roll about the size of my head. A giant burrito, but better. The combination of heat from the sauce, crunch of the cabbage, and cool, refreshing taste of the avocado had my taste buds dancing. It is definitely a messy food to eat, so have napkins handy and accept the fact that there is no attractive way to eat one of these spring rolls. It is a struggle to take a bite because the average person’s mouth is not physically big enough to wrap around the roll without lettuce and avocado falling all over. But no shame, just bite down and enjoy. To make this lunch victory even sweeter, the price of a spring roll is only $3. Yes, only $3. I encourage everyone to head to Library Mall and try Fresh Cool Drinks or any of the many food carts that are available, especially before it gets too cold. Before falling victim to Operation: Need Lunch Now, remember that reasonable, delicious and convenient food carts are only a few steps away.
Photos by Meghan Horvath
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THE
GREEN OWL CAFE
Photos by Ali Folino
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BY CLAIRE HORNACEK
Plant-based diets are one of the latest trends in the food world. Not only are plantbased foods better for our health, they are also easier on the environment. While I am not quite ready to make the switch to a completely vegetarian or vegan diet, I am always up for trying something new. I headed over to the Green Owl Café situated at a funky intersection on Atwood Avenue on the east side of Madison. The Green Owl Café specializes in locally sourced vegan and vegetarian dishes.
“
The “T” in the TLT sandwich stands for “tempeh,” a soy protein meat substitute. I was a bit skeptical about substituting soy protein for classic, greasy bacon, but the waiter’s recommendation did not disappoint. Although the tempeh was less crispy than traditional bacon, it was hardly noticeable in the sandwich. The tempeh even had the signature smoky flavor of bacon. Fresh avocado, juicy tomato, crunchy lettuce and chewy Madison Sourdough bread made for one satisfying tempeh sandwich.
Every dish looks delicious, perfect for vegans, vegetarians, and carnivores alike.
Earthy green walls, natural wood benches, and bright plastic chairs give the café a hip, modern vibe. Every dish looks delicious, perfect for vegans, vegetarians and carnivores alike. Still undecided after examining the menu, I took the waiter’s advice. I ordered the TLT with Avocado Sandwich, a vegan twist on the traditional BL T, and a quinoa salad on the side.
The TLT sandwich was more appetizing than I had imagined, but the quinoa salad stole the show. If I had only one reason to revisit the Green Owl, it would be for that quinoa salad. Quinoa, scallions, pepitas, and dried cranberries combined with their famous nutty dressing made for a wholesome, savory side dish. I would recommend that they offer a larger portion of the salad to be sold as full entrée.
After the table next to me ordered the chocolate lava cake, I knew I needed to try it. A warm piece of cake covered in chocolate sauce and dusted with powered sugar was the perfect way to end the meal. The sauce had a slight hint of sour cherry that perfectly complimented the rich chocolate. I scraped the plate clean. If you’re looking for something a little different next time you go out, check out the Green Owl Café. The dishes are so creative and delicious, you will not even notice that the meals are vegan and vegetarian. And on Sunday they offer brunch… So I’ll be back!
”
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forage kitchen: healthy, fast, flavorful
Photos by Ali Folino
BY Ali Castriano
Madison has always been the land of beer and cheese. With all the new restaurant openings in the area, however, the city’s food culture is evolving into much more than that. The healthy and sustainable food revolution is at an all-time high, and Doug Hamaker and Henry Aschauer jumped on the opportunity. They opened Forage Kitchen, a place to quickly grab a gourmet salad, veggie-filled wrap, grain-filled bowl or any combination of the sorts. All of their ingredients are locally sourced from vendors in Wisconsin and the surrounding areas, which gives us yet another reason to try what they have to offer. Owners Hamaker and Aschauer were both students and friends at the UW-Madison and have continued to make a presence on campus through their restaurants. They
opened Roast Public House three years ago, but they wanted to broaden their offerings with a place for healthy lunch and dinner options. With this idea in mind, they immediately called up lifelong friend and chef Katie Brozen to add her to the team. They flew her out from New York City to Madison to discuss their ideas behind Forage Kitchen. She was hooked.
the exciting new menu. Brozen has a very accredited background in healthy cooking, as she went to culinary school at the Natural Gourmet Institute, worked in many upscale farmto-table New York City restaurants, and opened her own vegetarian café. She chose to pack up and move to Madison to create the menu and cook for Forage Kitchen because she wanted to make a positive impact on our community and campus. Brozen created a menu that integrates options for lovers of all types of
the food at “ Forage is made for
everyone and anyone, not just vegans and vegetarians.
I had the opportunity to talk with Brozen, the current head chef of Forage Kitchen, to learn more about what the restaurant can provide students and to hear the story of the woman behind
”
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cuisine, not just leafy greens and salads. She playfully pointed out that menu items such as proteins, grains and wraps are hardy, comfort-food alternatives that are perfect for harsh winters in Madison. Brozen explained that although Forage is a fast-casual restaurant, she wanted to provide people with a well-rounded experience. Their goal is for customers to never feel rushed in the restaurant, to always leave feeling great about what they ate, and to have a positive experience.
When I asked the head chef what she would order off the menu on a typical day, she chose the Forbidden Forager signature salad. This answer came after a long pause, since every item is on the menu for a reason and there are endless combination possibilities. She described this salad as the perfect balance of ingredients with flavors and textures from black rice, roasted broccoli, crunchy carrots, cucumbers and sunflower sprouts. The only thing she thinks it’s missing: avocado. And because she creates the menu, I bet we see avocado added to the Forbidden Forager
sometime soon. On a final note, it is important to remember that the food at Forage is made for everyone and anyone, not just vegans and vegetarians. I recommend to anyone curious person to not shy away from Forage Kitchen due to pre-existing opinions and unfamiliarity with unusual organic ingredients. Get out of your comfort zone of burgers and curds for lunch, and choose these amazing healthy offerings that will leave you feeling great and ready to take on the world.
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The Café at Estrellón BY Mia Shehadi
The newest endeavor of the highly acclaimed chef and entrepreneur, Tory Miller, is Estrellón, a tapas style restaurant with strong Spanish and European influences. Located at 313 W. Johnson St., right before the intersection with State and Henry St, Estrellón gives off a soft elegant feel to all who peek through the long wall of windows. Few people are aware that the restaurant is composed of three parts: The Dining Room, the Tapas Bar, and the Café. While the white table cloths and dark wooden decor may seem intimidating for the average college student, the Café at Estrellón is a healthy, inexpensive way for anyone to get their quick coffee fix. As I walked through the front door of
Estrellón for the first time, I was stunned. The floor was a beautiful grey marble that touched white walls lined with the wood the color of deep red cherries. The smell of the restaurant was comforting and warm, eddying with the smell of coffee grounds and sugar dough. The foyer forked into two rooms; the famous dining room to the left, and the cafe/bar area to the right, with natural lighting that made the rooms feel even bigger. A beautiful wooden bar was pushed against the right side of the room, a wallpaper of liquor bottles drawing colorful attention to a cutely iconic chrome coffee maker. Mirroring the bar was a granite lined display of croissants. And, in true European fashion, big slabs of meat hung from the rafter behind the breads. I found out later that they are house-cured ham legs and Spanish-style chorizo.
Photos by Mia Shehadi
I had the absolute pleasure of interviewing head pastry chef, Taylor Feldman and the Café Manager, Lanette Martell. As head pastry chef, Taylor is in charge of baking all of the croissants and making the desserts for that night. Because Estrellón prides itself on its fresh product, Feldman arrives at 4 a.m. every day to prep. Martell holds down the fort in the front, promoting products and meeting customers. The easy friendship and cooperation between the between managers allows for a comfortable, stress-free environment from the front of the house to the back. The music ranges from 80’s to folky, reflecting their aim to create a homey feel for diverse clientele. The European “sharing style,” they explained, was an
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important aspect to the concept of the restaurant. They’ve helped create a place where people can share plates of food, rather than have individual meals for each person. Tory Miller wanted to emulate the group feel of cafés he visited in Spain. Skeptical about this concept, I asked about portion size. “They are pretty big portions actually,” Martell explained. “Each sandwich is about a third of a baguette. I can usually only eat about half of one,” Feldman added. Martell and Feldman also emphasized their desire to make easily accessible food for the on-the-go college student. Students can easily come here to pick up inexpensive and healthy food in between classes. When I asked them why people should pick the Estrellón café over another café, their answer was pretty
simple: the product. Martell described the Café’s conscious use of local sustainable ingredients such as their Anodyne coffee which is roasted in Milwaukee, and the baguettes they get from Stella’s bakery. The Café strives to be part of the active local community. The unique flavor profile makes the food original, along with their commitment to making everything fresh each day.
“
freshest ingredients available. As fall gets underway, we will likely see a lot of creative crêpe combinations involving apples instead of the summery raspberry. Another menu item that interested me was the Magic Coffee. They described it as a wondrous rich iced cinnamon latté. The cold brew and espresso make the drink especially strong, while the cream and brown sugar create a perfectly balanced sweetness.
The mixture of the bakery smells, the sound of grinding coffee, and the discussion about their product made my stomach growl.
When glancing over the menu, I noticed that a lot of the items changed daily. Chef Taylor told me that the recipes change with whatever ingredients are in season. The specific sandwiches, crêpes and croissants will vary according to the
”
The mixture of the bakery smells, the sound of grinding coffee, and the discussion about their product made my stomach growl. I had to try everything. It’s a good thing I brought along a fellow food
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and drink enthusiast, because we tried one of everything. Except for the magic coffee, we ended up ordering three of those. But I’m jumping ahead of myself. First, we tried the ‘mortadella, butter, black goat truffle, and dijon’ Baguette Sandwich. The baguette sandwich was a stunner, the crispy bread was perfectly sized with the amount of ingredients inside. Every aspect of it was balanced well, between the distinctive sour mustard and the smooth rounded butter, to the crunchy baguette and soft full mortadella meat. It was very filling especially considering that I only had half. I smiled and dabbed away at the Dijon on my cheek before starting on the next course. This beautiful, literally glittering pastry stared at me. We also tried the Xuxo (pronounced Chu-cho), which is essentially a deepfried croissant rolled in cinnamon sugar and filled with pastry cream. Insert swoon here. We cut the croissant in half and the gorgeous cream filling spilled onto the plate. The first bite was just as incredible as the last. A fine layer of cinnamon sugar
coated my lips, finally completing my quest for the perfect shade of lipstick. The cream filling was fantastic, not too rich or overpowering on such a light, delicate croissant.
over extending our welcome. It was a natural progression, eat a lot then relax with your friends. An amenity of music volume invited long conversation and pleasantly filled the space when there was none. The natural light spilling in from the wall of windows enhanced the overall positive demeanor of the café.
There was “ no uncomfortable
Finally, we tasted the ‘apple, cheddar, maple, bacon’ Crepe. It came out steaming from the hot stone it was just made on, which we could see them make behind the pastry display bar. We cut into the crêpe and exposed a filling of chunks of cheddar, thinly sliced cinnamon-tart apple, and little pieces of sweet, meaty bacon. All of these ingredients in the crêpe mixed harmoniously in every bite.
air telling us that we were over extending our welcome.
The whole meal was priced perfectly for the portion size. After the meal my companion and I sat on the couches to digest our food and eat up some of the Café’s Wi-Fi bandwidth. There was no uncomfortable air telling us that we were
”
The Café at Estrellón is truly a gem. The combination of the large filling portions, friendly atmosphere, and fantastic food will leave you wanting to come back again and again. Each item is handmade with local sustainable ingredients, fresh to every order. The prices, concept, and flavors all combine to make an easy way for any student or professional adult to grab a healthy meal.
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JONNY HUNTER’S COLLECTIVE
Jonny Hunter’s culinary genius has attracted attention both locally and nationally. As founder, co-owner and chef of Madison’s acclaimed Underground Food Collective, the UW graduate has taken his restaurants to impressive heights. Forequarter Restaurant earned a nomination from the James Beard Foundation as well as recognition by Bon Appétit magazine as one of the nation’s best new restaurants. With another restaurant on the way, Hunter’s Collective is one to watch.
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Less Is More At The Underground Food Collective BY ANNALeigh Wetzel Chef Jonny Hunter defies the notion that good food and its preparation must be complicated, and instead uses “less is more” as a philosophy to invigorate his work. Hunter is
the 2015 Madison Magazine Chef of the Year and the face of Underground Food Collective, the umbrella company for Underground Meats, Underground Catering, Forequarter Restaurant and Underground Butcher. “Those limitations we put on ourselves help
us create,” Hunter explains of the driving force behind their work at the collective. With the long, harsh Wisconsin winter season comes a lack of available ingredients, an unwelcome constraint to many in the food industry. But Hunter and his team do not see it that way. “We weren’t a company that came around to the idea of local. We were using local foods because that’s how we started… so I really thrive in those sparser months,” he says. That is also the inspiration for the collective’s soon-to-open restaurant on Williamson Street. “Middlewest is going to be an expression of that focus in that we’re only going to have one cooking implement within the entire restaurant,” Hunter says. The restaurant, from its visual aesthetic to its menu offerings, will all revolve around a large wood hearth. Hunter says fryers, ranges and other usual appliances will not have a place in the Middlewest kitchen, and cooking will be done through the hearth alone. “We’ve been thinking about this for a long time, but the reality of it will probably be really difficult. It could maybe lead to some interesting challenges, but I think in the long run, hopefully not too long of a run, we will really come to define what this restaurant is, by that fire,” he says. This type of innovative thinking in part stems from Hunter’s unique personal background. Hunter was raised in a small intentional community of conservative Christians in eastern Texas. He refers to this
Photos by Amber Liu
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self-proclaimed “cult-like” upbringing as what has shaped his perspective on food and community. His family’s evangelism brought him to more than 40 countries where he spent his time learning about those places and the people who populate them. Since then he has categorically rejected religion, but his understanding of food as culture has only grown stronger. His experience living alongside people in places so unfamiliar to him has allowed him to discover how a culture’s food heritage can build community. This eventually fostered his approach to cooking in Madison. “I think there is an idea here that what we’re doing [in Madison] is special and that we should be pushing ourselves because we have these extraordinary agricultural products to work with and we have customers and consumers who are so much more engaged and interested than in cities
that are much bigger than us,” he says. “And that’s pretty great.” In an effort to rejoin the mainstream society he had been denied during his childhood, Hunter was drawn to the UW-Madison campus where he enrolled as a student. It was here that he, along with his brother and a group of friends, worked at Catacombs Coffeehouse, a café in the basement of the Pres House. This was the first experience that gave him the opportunity to finally “do [his] own thing” and expand his cooking interests. “Catacombs is a seminal part in my life and something that has completely defined how I think about the world and how I think about what I do now,” he says. The passion for cooking, instilled from his work at Catacombs Coffeehouse, prompted Hunter to pursue a career in the food industry despite his UW
graduate degree in public affairs. “I think I came to age as a cook during the Internet explosion of knowledge. So you no longer had to go to culinary school or you no longer had to work up through restaurants. I used those information tools to train myself,” Hunter says. In lieu of a formal culinary education, Hunter has continued to do more with less. Jonny Hunter is a prominent member of the Madison food community, surrounding himself with like-minded chefs who double as some of his closest friends. “I think that we have such a great food system here, and that’s because of the people who are involved in it. I view myself as a community organizer even more than I view myself as a cook or a chef or a business owner. And so when I’m able to meet people who are doing the same thing from that point of view, I’m way more at home.”
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Four stars for forequarter BY Liz Schnee
Forequarter may just be the trendiest restaurant in Madison a college student can get into. The exterior is nondescript: a brick facade without any large signs located near a laundromat on bustling Gorham Street. Upon entering, however, you are immediately drawn in by the rustic lighting, closely placed tables and re-purposed wooden bar that acts as the focal point of the restaurant's décor.
elevated status. The business is a member of the Underground Food Collective, and is overseen by Jonny Hunter and managed by Mel Trudeau. In the midst of Madison restaurants, Forequarter sets itself apart with an ever-changing menu of fresh combinations like oven-roasted meatballs with sour cream, mustard greens, fennel and radish and a small plate with smoked beets, Trillium triple cream cheese, pear juice and coffee oat crumble.
When I dined at Forequarter with my parents and a family friend, we were placed near the kitchen, where I had the chance to witness the seamless precision with which the wait staff streamlined our dining experience. They were knowledgeable and calm, even with the constant flow of dining parties. Many of the employees, I was told, are past interns from Slow Food UW, a nonprofit that serves sustainablysourced meals to the public twice a week.
Looking to impress a date? Order the beef tendon with whipped marrow. It bears resemblance to crispy fried onions from Thanksgiving casseroles, but is really dehydrated beef, deep fried to a puffy golden brown. As skeptical as I was about eating bone marrow, I was pleasantly surprised by the combination of the creamy, tan spread smeared on the buttery tendon.
One year after Forequarter opened its doors in 2012, Bon Appétit magazine named it one of the 50 best restaurants in America. Reflecting on the fact that there are over 50 restaurants in the downtown Madison area alone, heightens Forequarter's already
Forequarter's roasted green beans with shallots, mushrooms and preserved egg will make anyone who thinks they've tasted green beans think again. As will the broccoli seared deep with flavor in a reduction of whey and toasted chia seeds. If mom could make broccoli like Forequarter, no child
Photo by Amber Liu
would complain about eating greens again. If vegetables don't do it for you, try the rainbow trout en papillote with dicot radishes and heirloom tomatoes. It is flaky, hearty, and almost doesn’t leave room for dessert. But I'm not one to leave a meal without satiating my sweet tooth. A strawberry sour cream sorbet, a house made candy bar with salted caramel and chocolate and warm apple crisp was the perfect finish to a lavish meal in the heart of Madison. The best part in the eyes of a college student? You won't need to break open the piggy bank to enjoy it. A couple of plates are enough to make a special meal and most are priced between $8-$12, although the roasted lamb dish tops out at $26. A late-night menu runs Thursday to Saturday, 10 p.m. to 1 a.m. and features dishes like smoked beef brisket and an assorted cookie plate, satisfying any and all cravings. So rack your brain for a special occasion to celebrate at Forequarter. Be it a birthday, anniversary or a Tuesday night. The name dropping power that comes from eating at a place so trendy will only help your reputation.
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Interview with Andy Jack: Culinary Artist and Businessman A look at his cooking, catering and product formulation of Honey Badger Nut Butter
BY Jordan Peschek
Andy Jack, a recent graduate from the UWMadison, is a forthcoming figurehead in Madison’s food scene. He has been cooking up several ideas that further enhance the food culture in Madison. A skilled caterer, chef and entrepreneur, Jack may be considered the next Tory Miller. Jack, who recently earned a UW degree in Dietetics, has catered weddings and worked with highly esteemed local chefs, including Tory Miller of L’Etoile, for years. Perhaps Jack’s most notable current pursuit is his product development for an all-natural, locally-sourced version of Nutella, soon to be on store shelves. Jack may be a young addition to the famous Madison food scene, but one thing is for sure. He is going places. Jack got his culinary start at an early age. He excelled in his high school culinary class and
took part in a Food Network internship where he had the supreme opportunity to work with special guest Guy Fieri. Since then, he has gained experience through a whole host of endeavors in the food industry. Jack is his own boss as a local caterer. He serves upwards of 100 people in weddings and other events throughout the year. He excels at creating custom menus and accommodating guests with special diets at these events. “For one wedding, they requested a vegan Indian menu, plus a meat appetizer ad cheese board to please the relatives,” Jack recalled. Even with such contrasting needs, he created a meal that satisfied all attendees. He keeps his services affordable without sacrificing quality and flavor. “In a world where wedding food is crazily priced, I offer a much more reasonable price point,” Jack explained.
“I focus on food, and the wedding party does their own décor. It keeps overhead low and gives the wedding party autonomy.” Not only does he manage to cut costs to meet budgets of a younger demographic, Jack creates brilliant original recipes for every bite sized appetizer and every ounce of steak. Here is just a sample of Jack’s flavorful ideas. A cornucopia of a salad that consists of ground cherry, tomato, and herbs with nasturtium, the plant from which lightly tangy, peppery water cress originates. Hand-crafted tortellini made with kale, sweet pear butter, and earthy truffle and parmesan. And rillettes, or pâté-like meat preparations, that include pork and shitake, onion ramps, black radish and burdock pickles served on crostini. He has made skewers of smoked pork belly flavored with chai tea and pineapple, savory cheesecake with orange zest, and the list of creative concoctions goes on.
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Jack’s recipes are artful and meticulous. In all of these dishes, one can observe a delicate balance of flavor combinations and diversity in food preparations and styles. These inventive designs help distinguish Andy Jack as a food artist. Andy Jack has catered dinner parties and other personal chef service requests. He has also designed the menu, prepared, and cooked six Family Dinner Nights with Slow Food. Slow Food is a UW-Madison organization with a mission to “slow people down and bring them back to the dinner table,” Jack said. The idea of bringing people back to enjoying real food in such a fast paced society is reflected in Jack’s own ideals as well. Slow Food utilizes the fresh seasonal produce from farms represented at the Dane County Farmer’s Market and serves students and the community delicious three course meals every week for just $5. This leaves Jack with a budget of $3 per meal, so it can be challenging to design a meal that is healthy, balanced, and tasty without overspending. Jack was an intern for three semesters at Slow Food and the chef for their first formal spring gala fundraiser. He has utilized skills to create meals for the masses, and he emphasizes the
coordinated efforts of the group. “It is always a team effort at Slow Food,” he explained, appreciative of his opportunity to work with the organization, where many like-minded individuals learn and grow together as culinary masters and community leaders. What are Andy Jack’s most current pursuits? He is still cooking, concocting, and creating. In addition to his work at Fromagination, a gourmet sandwich shop and artisanal cheese store on the Capitol Square, he is pursuing another food business idea: Honey Badger Nut Butter. The “Whole Foods, co-op version of Nutella,” as Jack described it, “is true hazelnut butter rather than frosting.” He has been formulating the exact recipe for months, and his product design is in the final stages. “It should be on local store shelves before the end of 2015,” Jack affirmed. The nut butter is differentiated from the all-familiar, sugary chocolate spread we know as Nutella. Jack’s Honey Badger Nut Butter, rather, is natural and locally sourced. He replaces all refined sugar with raw Wisconsin honey, and the hazelnuts come from Oregon instead of Turkey. Rich, earthy cocoa powder (and a few secret ingredients)
completes the all-natural recipe. Jack has been working with Colin Thompson to put their business plan into action. Thompson works on label design and collaborates with distributors at Batch Bakehouse to handle much of the sending and receiving of product. Jack focuses on the science and numbers: product formulation and the cash flows. Of course, their work overlaps significantly. Together, Jack and Thompson have brought Honey Badger Nut Butter from an intangible idea to an actual, edible product. Look for the all-natural, local hazelnut butter in places such as Fromagination, Slow Food and local stores and cooperatives. Jack hopes that Honey Badger Nut Butter will soon become a household name in the Madison community. I tasted a bit of the butter myself, and I have complete confidence that Jack and Thompson’s Nut Butter will be eaten up by this city. With a focus on local ingredients, natural product, and Badger in the name, this hazelnut spread reflects many ideas we take pride in: our local farmers, avoidance of artificial additives, and of course, Badger Pride. With any luck, Honey Badger Nut Butter will be filling our pantries soon.
Photos courtesy ofAndy Jack
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