Table of Contents 3 Staff Page 4 Editor’s Letter 5 In the Kitchen 22 No Reservations 35 Food for Thought
6 Two-Toned Baked Potatos 7 Just like Mom Makes: Homemade Chicken Noodle Soup 8 Broccoli Chedder Soup 9 Baked Potato Soup 10 Holy Guacamole That Hurts! 11 Slow Cooker Wings 12 Vegetarian Red Beans and Rice 13 How-to Spaghetti Squash 14 The Spice of Life: Pumpkin 16 Peanut Butter Butterfinger Cake 18 Safety First Temperature Sheet 20 Viennese Apple Strudel: How much do you know about apples? 21 Mini Vegan Pumpkin Bars 23 Matcha Teahouse 24 Bison Jacks 25 Weary World Traveler 26 Deal of the Month: Rising Sons Deli 27 Elite Three: Best Places to Study 29 Dining Dichotomies: Brocach v. Coopers Tavern 31 Treats and Sweets 34 Late Night Locale 36 College Food Choices 39 Why do we get sleepy after eating Turkey on Thanksgiving? 40 Cranberries: Just another thing Wisconsin does better than everybody else 43 Family Dinner Night: Slow Food 45 Overstuffing yourself on Thanksgiving
Christiania Hittner
Valerie Klessig
Editor's Letter Goodbye Turkey, Hello Holiday Season There’s no better way to ring
in the holiday season than by standing outside of Target at midnight with your best friend for Black Friday shopping. With your belly full of turkey and your eyes on a new flat screen TV for grandma, Black Friday Shopping has a way of revving us all up for the gift-giving season. The term “Black Friday” was first used in a 1966 publication by the Philadelphia Police Department to describe the official opening of the Christmas shopping season. Every year this one day celebration brings massive traffic jams and over-crowded sidewalks as the downtown stores are mobbed from opening to closing. My Black Friday shopping day starts at 11pm on Thanksgiving with a hot cup of coffee and a leftover turkey sandwich packed in my purse. It doesn’t end until late in the afternoon the next day with a Chicago style hotdog and cheese fries from Portillos — a famous Chicago eatery.
Do you have a favorite Holiday Treat? Share your story or recipe with us! Submit to thedishmadison@gmail.com
As a day filled with food, fanatics and frenzy, this long day of Christmas shopping helps me say goodbye to turkey and hello to holiday sweets. In this issue you will find hearty classics and mouth-watering secrets woven into each beautifully decorated page. From a Q&A with local Madison business owners, to an article on why Turkey makes you tired, the November issue of The Dish has something for every food lover this holiday season.
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Happy Eating,
Cailly Morris Editor in Chief
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om .go.c n u f mily
November 2011
In the Kitchen
A Word from In the Kitchen
Hi all, and welcome to In the Kitchen! Thanks for picking The Dish for all your culinary news! You may be wondering what “In the Kitchen� may contain. Obviously, we are planning on offering you an assortment of recipes, but you can also find lots of cooking tips and tricks, kitchen-goneawry stories, and (soon) technique videos! You can search our section in many different ways-we offer alternative diet recipes, healthy-eating recipes, conscious-eating information, and tastetest results. Do you have a recipe that knocks your socks off? Shoot if off to dishthefood@gmail.com with a short paragraph about the recipe and its meaning to you! We want to see how creative you can get.
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Michelle Czarnecki In the Kitchen Editor
November 2011 5
In the Kitchen A different kind of potato for Thanksgiving? What?! On Thanksgiving, you just want a few things: family, turkey, stuffing, football and – above all else – you want potatoes. And you want them mashed.
But what if I told you there is another way to have your potatoes on Thanksgiving? Whoa! Don’t stop reading just yet. I get it. You’re a traditionalist. No, no, that’s OK; you don’t have to feel bad about it. Be proud of it! I see where you’re coming from. It just ain’t Thanksgiving dinner without mashed potatoes and gravy! I am the same way. I’m sure we even do some of the same things. Do I watch in wonderment as the gravy spills down the mountain of mashed potatoes on my plate? Of course. During the second round do I push my spoon down in the middle of the pile so I can make a lake of gravy? Who doesn’t? And do I finish up the leftovers at 4:00 in the morning for “energy” on Black Friday? Ha! Maybe if there were any leftovers! Trust me – I get you. So when someone tries to “experiment” with your Thanksgiving Dinner Mashed Potatoes And Gravy (and yes, it is worthy of proper noun status), I understand you don’t take that threat lightly. Please then, make your mashed potatoes as always. But who says there isn’t room for an additional potato dish on that plate of yours? (OK, so that plate is pretty full. But maybe that just means it’s finally time to be real with Uncle Billy and let him know how everybody really feels about his yucky green bean casserole.)
Presenting: The Two-Toned Baked Potato (recipe below from Taste of Home magazine). Not only does the mixture of sweet and russet potatoes add another dimension of flavor to your Thanksgiving plate, but also its natural autumn color scheme will surely impress those relatives who, like you, were skeptical about a new kind of Thanksgiving potato. Additionally, using the skin as an edible dish (a delicacy in the Lynne household) does a pretty nifty job of protecting your potatoes from mixing with Grandma’s cranberry sauce. So whether you are up for an experiment this Thanksgiving or if you’re the type that wouldn’t mind having an excuse to eat more potatoes, try this recipe out.
“It just ain’t Thanksgiving dinner without mashed potatoes and gravy!”
Two - Toned Baked Potatoes Ingredients: By Eric Lynne
Cooking Time: 1 hour and 30 minutes Serves 12
6 medium russet potatoes 6 medium sweet potatoes 2/3 cup sour cream, divided into two 1/3-cup measures 1/3 cup milk 3/4 cup shredded cheddar cheese 4 tablespoons minced chives, divided into two 2-tablespoon measures 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, divided into two 3/4-teaspoon measures
Instructions:
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Preheat oven to 400F (Later will turn down to 350F. Pierce russet and sweet potatoes with fork. Bake for 60-70 minutes or until tender. Set sweet potatoes aside. Cut a third off the top of each russet potato; scoop out pulp, leaving skins intact. Place pulp in a bowl; mash with 1/3 cup sour cream, milk, cheese, 2 tablespoons chives and 3/4 teaspoon salt. Set aside.
November 2011
Cut off the top of each sweet potato; scoop out pulp, leaving skins intact. Mash pulp with remaining sour cream, chives and salt. Stuff mixture into half of each potato skin; spoon russet potato filling into other half. Place on a baking sheet. Bake at 350F for 15-20 minutes or until heated through.
Just Like Mom Makes! Homemade Chicken Noodle Soup By Allysha Heenan Now that classes are in full swing, missing home and home-cooked meals is a common feeling. My favorite dish to make during fall when I miss home is chicken noodle soup. Not only is it easy, delicious and healthy; it’s also very comforting. The recipe below is a modified recipe from the FoodNetwork.com kitchens. Cooking Time: 20 minutes Serves: 8
Instructions
Ingredients
1. Slice carrots and celery. Dice onion. In a pot, add chicken broth, water and vegetables and bring to a boil. Simmer over medium-high heat. Season with parsley, thyme, salt and pepper. Simmer for five minutes or until the vegetables are tender. (TIP: An easy way to check if something is tender is to stick a fork in it. If the fork meets resistance with the food, it’s not tender yet.) 2. While soup is simmering, shred rotisserie chicken. You will only need about half of the meat the rotisserie chicken provides. Set aside the rest to make chicken salad later. 3. Once vegetables are tender, add egg noodles and cook for 5-8 minutes or until noodles are tender. Then add the shredded chicken, garlic powder and onion powder. Stir soup until heated thoroughly. (TIP: Remember to continually taste your dish throughout cooking. This will help check the salt and/or pepper content so you can adjust accordingly.) 4. Ladle soup into bowls and serve hot
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Rotisserie chicken 2 ½ cups of dry egg noodles 32 ounces of low sodium chicken broth 1 medium carrot 2 celery stalks ½ medium yellow onion 2 sprigs of fresh thyme or ¼ teaspoon of dried thyme ½ teaspoon dried parsley ½ teaspoon garlic powder ½ teaspoon onion powder 1 teaspoon of ground black pepper 1 teaspoon of salt ½ cup of water
November 2011 7
In the Kitchen
Broccoli Cheddar Soup By Michelle Czarnecki
How many soups can you name? A weird
Ingredients 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 1/2 pounds broccoli, finely chopped 1 yellow onion, finely chopped 1/2 garlic clove, minced Salt and pepper to taste 1 cup vegetable or chicken broth 1/2 pound (2 cups) grated sharp cheddar cheese
question, but one I encountered during a debate with my friend over the best fall soups to make. Classics such as chicken noodle, French onion and broccoli cheddar came up, which reminded me of the most delicious broccoli cheddar soup I’ve ever had the pleasure to consume. When I originally encountered this recipe, it was highlighted on Epicurious.com (clearly my favorite cooking site ever) called “Green Gruel with Eyeballs.” Needless to say, my taste buds weren’t exactly watering at this description, but I decided to give it a try anyway. However, before you get just as excited as I was about fresh broccoli cheddar soup, you need to make sure you own either A) a standard blender or B) an immersion blender – the immersion blender being the preferable option, as using a standard blender requires making sure hot green and yellow (Packers right?) soup does not decorate your kitchen. Using an immersion blender is super simple as long as you keep your fingers out of the way of the blade (a wise choice when using any blender) and as long as you make sure the broccoli has been thoroughly steamed (raw broccoli + small blade = dull, not working blade/ broken immersion blender).
Instructions:
1. In a large saucepan over
medium heat, melt one tablespoon of the butter. Add the chopped broccoli, onion, garlic, salt and pepper. Cook until onion has become translucent.
2. Add the broth, cover and
simmer 20 minutes until the broccoli is very tender and liquid is almost gone. Remove from heat, add cheese and mix well.
3. Using your immersion
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blender, blend soup until combined. If using a normal blender, work in batches and make sure to cover the top of the blender with a towel in case
8 November 2011
By Abby Siwak
When it starts getting cold outside, all I want to do is curl up in front of a fireplace with some warm soup. While finding a fireplace to sit in front of might be tough, making a delicious and filling soup shouldn’t be. I love this recipe because you can make it however you want to based on your favorite baked potato toppings. Don’t like bacon or chives? Feel free to add another topping you like, or nothing at all. As for the fireplace… this should do the trick:
Ingredients: 3 slices of bacon 1 yellow onion, finely chopped 4 yukon gold potatoes, peeled and diced 1 14 oz container chicken broth 1 cup half & half 1 cup sharp cheddar cheese, grated 1 cup sour cream ½ cup chives, chopped 1 tbs butter Serves 4
1. In a large pot over medium heat, cook the bacon until it is golden brown, about 5 minutes. Remove bacon from pot and set aside.
2. Add onions and salt and pepper to soup pot and turn the heat down to medium low. Cook until the onions start showing some color, about 5 more minutes.
3. Add the diced potatoes and turn heat back up to medium. Cook for about 10 minutes, stirring frequently.
4. Add the chicken stock to the pot and bring to
a light boil. Simmer for about 10 minutes or until potatoes are almost completely soft. Mash with a potato masher until you reach a consistency you’re happy with.
5. Add the sour cream, half and half, and butter. Stir until well blended. Chop the bacon into small pieces. Ladle the soup into bowls and garnish with bacon, cheese and chives.
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Baked Potato Soup
5 November 2011 9
the Kitchen that Hurts! HolyInGuacamole By Eric Lynne
With great guacamole comes great hot peppers—and great responsibility. Last summer, I forgot the latter. As I was cutting up a juicy green chili pepper for a gluttonous batch of guacamole, some of its juice squirted into my right eye. It stung so fiercely that if I hadn’t screamed, I’m pretty sure you could have heard the sizzle. Eye reddening, I managed to calm myself down. Not too worry, I thought, it’s been a while since high school chemistry but I know what to do. So I went over to the sink, ran some cold water, and began splashing water into my eye. The water felt cool and refreshing at first. But then I noticed it was getting worse instead of better. So I turned up the faucet and splashed some more water on my face. Splash. Soon I noticed a tingle in my uninfected eye, so I began splashing it as well. Splash, splash. Still worse. Splash, splash. I began feeling it in my cheeks. Splash, splash. Now both eyes were definitely on fire! Splash, splash, splash! What the reader probably recognizes already (but what I had failed to at the time) is that I was splashing my face with my hands—the same hands that had just spent the last ten minutes slicing and dicing up a batch of red onions and chili peppers, all of their potent juices collecting in the small crevices of my hands. I had fought fire with gasoline. It was when I couldn’t open my eyes that I really started to panic. I started yelling for my buddy Bert who I knew was working on homework in his room. Soon he came out—and after seeing (and laughing at) the predicament I was in, he hopped on Google to see what I should do to stop it. As he searched (the internet had never been so slow!) he finally found an article. He began skimming: “Okay, okay. So, pepper juice in the eye… okay… burning eyes... flushed cheeks… dangerous toxins… blah blah blah… rashes can occur… okay… temporary or permanent blindness…” BLINDNESS!? That’s when the you-know-what hit the fan. I frantically felt my way to the other side of the counter and grabbed a loaf of bread. I tore through the plastic and took out a couple of slices and planted them on my face. When their coolness had worn off, threw them out with a few curse words and grabbed two more slices. Bert, of course, could hardly control his laughter, but eventually, he found me some useful information. For relief, the best thing was to get ice and put it on my eyes until the burning stopped (see the picture above), and then flush out my eye without using my hand. Eventually the swelling went down and I started to naturally cry out the pepper juice. In the end, all I really got out of it was a good cry and a good story. But hopefully you can learn from my mistakes. In the case that you do find yourself in this predicament, here are some remedies according to Jenna Marie of eHow.com (and remember—don’t use your hands!):
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“Saline Solution – Aid your body’s natural defense mechanism by flushing the eye with a saline solution, such as one used by contact wearers. Alternate blinking and flushing the eye out for at least 30 minutes, but avoid touching the area with your hands. Avoid repeat touching of the area because that can reactivate the capillaries and increase the pain, according to pepperspraystore.com.” “Water – If you have no other available alternatives, try flushing the eye with water. Because the pepper juice is oil-based, it won’t wash away easily or quickly. Get to a sink, and allow cool water to run over your eye for about 30 minutes. You may not be able to open your eye at first, but try to blink as much as possible to get natural tears flowing and to allow the water to flush the oil away. Lay down with a cool wet towel over the eye until the pain lessens, says thechiliman.com experts.”
10 November November2011 2011
In the Kitchen
Slow Cooker Wings By Abby Siwak
Ever since I moved into my own apartment and started cooking more frequently, I have wanted to try out some cool new kitchen techniques. Last weekend, my mom sent me a gadget I’d been hoping to use for a while: a slow cooker.
It’s foolproof for everyone, even my cookingadverse roommates. You can find pretty inexpensive slow cookers, like the Crock Pot brand, at Target or on Amazon.com. Although you can cook really basic recipes in the slow cooker, it’s also perfect for slightly more complicated ones that look much more impressive than they really are. I took advantage of this fact while making snacks for a football tailgate recently. Everyone likes chicken wings, and they’re great for watching a game, but the slow cooker let me get ready and tailgate in style while my food cooked. Preparing them this way made the meat tender and fall-off-thebone juicy, too. This recipe is for the perfect sweet and spicy sticky wings and was really inexpensive, but you can alter it with your favorite spices. Just make sure to leave some time to braise the wings in a slow cooker for the best snack at the tailgate!
Ingredients:
Prep Time: 35 minutes Cooking Time: 4 hours Serves: 4
3/4 cup packed dark brown sugar 4 tablespoons soy sauce 1 tablespoon minced or grated fresh ginger 4 garlic cloves, minced 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper 4 pounds whole chicken wings (Instead of buying whole wings, have the butcher at the grocery store separate and de-wingtip them. It’s easier and way less disgusting.) 1/4 cup water 1/4 cup tomato paste
1. In the slower cooker, stir 1/4 cup brown sugar, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, ginger, garlic and 1/4 tsp cayenne pepper. Season chicken with salt and pepper then add to slow cooker and toss to coat. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, about four hours on low. 2. Position oven rack ten inches from broiler and preheat. Spray an aluminum foil lined rimmed baking sheet with vegetable oil. Transfer chicken to prepared baking sheet and discard braising liquid left in slow cooker. 3. In a medium bowl, combine remaining 1/2 cup sugar, 3 tablespoons soy sauce, 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, water and tomato paste. Brush the chicken with half the mixture and broil until lightly charred and crisp, about 10-15 minutes. Flip chicken over, brush with remaining mixture and broil until lightly charred and crisp on second side, about five minutes. Serve.
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Like any college student, I have a lot more going on besides making food, and it’s hard to find the time to make good home-cooked meals. My friends all claim that they eat rice and Easy Mac because that’s all they have time for, but having a slow cooker completely shatters that notion. Slow cookers do exactly what they say they do (cook slowly), so you can put some ingredients in it, program it to cook for up to 12 hours and leave. When you come home at the end of the day, your food is ready and waiting for you! And the coolest thing is, if you’re running late and miss the time your meal is supposed to be done, instead of burning it, the slow cooker just goes into “warm” mode without overcooking.
November 2011 11
In In the the Kitchen Kitchen By Rachel Drapcho 1. In a large bowl, soak beans of water over night or at least three hours before dinnertime. This allows for the beans to soften. 2. Drain and rinse beans well. Place in a large saucepan with three cups water. Boil at high heat. When beans come to a boil, reduce heat to low and simmer uncovered for 15 minutes. 3. Dice green pepper and white onion. Chop garlic cloves and small chili, removing the seeds. In the simmering saucepan, add pepper, onion, garlic and chili. Add Cajun seasoning, hot sauce, olive oil and bay leaf. Stir occasionally, and simmer uncovered for an additional 30 minutes or until water is significantly reduced.
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4. In a separate medium saucepan, mix dried brown rice with four cups water. Cover and bring water and rice to a boil. Simmer for about 30 minutes or until water is evaporated, stirring occasionally to avoid burning.
12 November November2011 2011
5. When there is very little water in the pan with the bean mixture, mash beans with a fork or masher and stir. Cook covered for an additional five minutes to let flavors mix together, stirring often. Remove bay leaf. Serve over brown rice
In the Kitchen
By Christiania Hittner
Allow me to introduce you to Spaghetti Squash. He looks like your average run of the mill squash, but this guy is unique. When baked in the oven or microwave the “meat” loosens from the outer shell to produce strands that resemble spaghetti, hence the name, spaghetti squash. The low-carb profile as well as its similar texture makes spaghetti squash a great substitute for pasta. Also, did you know that spaghetti squash is a good source of vitamins? Vitamins A, B, C, and calcium and potassium are all present. Ok, let’s get down to business! There are two popular ways to cook a spaghetti squash: Bake or microwave. Pick the cooking option that works best for you and enjoy!
Preheat oven to 375F Wash squash to remove any dirt. Pierce squash with a knife four or five times to avoid an explosion in the oven. Place squash in preheated oven on a baking tray. Bake for approximately 50-75 minutes, depending on the size of your squash. Squash is done when a knife can easily cut into the skin. Allow squash to cool for at least 5 minutes before cutting. Using a serrated knife carefully cut off the top of the squash; then cut vertically through the squash exposing the two halves. Scrape out seeds, and use a fork to separate and fluff squash strands
Wash squash to remove any dirt. Pierce squash with a knife four or five times to avoid an explosion in the microwave. Place in a large microwave-safe bowl. Cook 8-12 minutes. Let stand for 5 minutes to finish steaming. Using a serrated knife carefully cut off the top of the squash, then cut vertically through the squash exposing the two halves. Scrape out seeds, and use a fork to separate and fluff squash strands
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How-To: Spaghetti Squash
November 2011
In the the Kitchen Kitchen In Okay, let’s be honest. Aside from Halloween and Thanksgiving, when do most of us eat pumpkin at all? It starts to make appearances in grocery stores starting in mid- to late-September, and by the time November rolls around, most of our pumpkins are growing an entirely new species of fungus on the front porch As a lover of both squash and intensely pigmented foods, I feel that I must try to right this wrong. Pumpkins are colorful, delicious, nutritious, and can (and should) be enjoyed in every season. But before we get to nomming, some history:
Where’s It From?
Historians believe that pumpkins are originally from North America; seeds from related plants in Mexico have dated back as early as 7,000 BC. Native Americans used the pumpkin flesh for food and for practical purposes, drying strips over a fire and weaving them into mats. Settlers brought the seeds back to Europe, where they quickly became popular.
“Pumpkin is a nutritional powerhouse! In one cup, you get more potassium than a banana” So What’s up with Jack (O’Lantern)?
That story comes out of Ireland, where myth speaks of a man called “Stingy Jack” (stingy as in cheap, not as in full of painful barbs). One night, Stingy Jack invited the Devil to have a drink with him and then unwilling to pay for his drink, tricked the Devil into changing into the form of a coin in order to pay for their drinks. After the Devil did so, Jack decided to pocket the money instead, imprisoning the Devil next to a silver cross so he could not regain his original form. Jack freed the Devil only on the condition that the Devil would not bother him for one year and that should Jack die, his soul would not be taken to Hell
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The next year, Stingy Jack tricked the Devil into climbing a tree to pick some fruit. Jack carved a cross into the bark and extended the conditions of their original agreement for another ten years. But soon after the creation of their new pact, Jack died. The doors of heaven were closed to the likes of Stingy Jack, and the Devil, unable to bring the soul back with him, gave him a single burning coal to light his way through the night. Jack placed the coal into a hollowed-out turnip and has been wandering through the darkness since.
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The Spice of Life Pumpkin By Madeline Martini
Um, Did You Just Say Turnip?
Yup! The original story had Stingy Jack roving the streets holding a turnip. People began carving scary faces into turnips and potatoes (and beets in England) to scare away nasty spirits like Stingy Jack. As people came into America from these countries, people began to use the pumpkin instead, which was native to the area (and much bettersuited to hollowing-out than, say, beets).
Why Should I Care About Eating Pumpkin?
Pumpkin is a nutritional powerhouse! In one cup, you get more potassium than a banana, which is associated with a decreased risk of stroke, can help preserve your bone density, and can help you recover from a hard workout faster. Its orange pigment also gives us a clue that it is full of carotenoids that have been shown to decrease your chances of getting lung and colon cancer. On top of it all, pumpkin has plenty of Vitamin A and some other carotenoids called lutein and zeaxanthin, nutrients that are crucial to keeping your vision strong. And all of it comes for the low, low caloric price of 49 calories a cup! (I know, I know, Billy Mays does it better).
Pumpkin seeds are great for you, too – they contain chemicals believed to help slow down male pattern baldness and benign prostate hyperplasia – the harmless-but-annoying condition that makes older men have to go to the bathroom several times each night. They also have been shown to help with lowering cholesterol and have a boatload of minerals essential for growth, reproduction, wound healing, metabolism, and peak brain function.
In the Kitchen Did you know the largest pumpkin pie ever made was over five feet in diameter and weighed over 350 pounds?
Everyday Uses for Pumpkin
Mix a can of pumpkin (or 1 2/3 cups fresh pumpkin puree) into a box of cake mix (especially good with spice cake mix) for the easiest pumpkin muffin recipe, EVER. Stir a couple tablespoons into cooked oatmeal with a drizzle of maple syrup for a decadent breakfast Drizzle cooked pumpkin with olive oil and mash with a fork or potato masher for a colorful take on mashed potatoes for a fraction of the calories
How to Cook It From Scratch
Spread newspaper over your work surface and put a garbage can close by – this is gonna get messy. Cut a 4-5 pound pumpkin in half and scoop out the seeds, setting them to the side if intending to roast them. Cover the insides of the pumpkin with plastic wrap. Layer paper towels on the floor of your microwave oven. Place the pumpkins cut-side up inside the microwave, leaving about 2 inches of space between the pumpkin and the wall. Microwave on HIGH for 20-25 minutes, rotating halfway through. Carefully remove the pumpkin halves from the microwave and wrap them in aluminum foil for 10 minutes. Scoop the flesh out of the skin and puree using a blender, food processor, or hand mixer. Feel free to keep pumpkin puree refrigerated for up to a week or frozen for up to three months.
Did You Know?
The largest pumpkin pie ever made was over five feet in diameter and weighed over 350 pounds. It used 80 pounds of cooked pumpkin, 36 pounds of sugar, 12 dozen eggs and took six hours to bake!
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If you’re pressed for time or if fresh pumpkin isn’t in season, just buy a can of pumpkin puree from the store. Because of its higher pH, there is NO safe process as of yet for canning pumpkin puree at home – trust us, leave it to the professionals on this one
November 2011 15
In the Kitchen
Peanut Butter Butterfinger Cake By Chelsea Schlecht
As I was casually flipping through my Bon Appetit: Desserts cookbook, I had every intention of baking a simple yellow cake. I’m no expert baker – in fact I have yet to bake a successful cake from scratch. But then I saw this: “Chocolate-Peanut Butter Cake with Cream Cheese and Butterfinger Frosting.” My brain went into overdrive. My stomach started grumbling. I knew I had to make this cake. As the title suggests, it was a smorgasbord of flavors. And yes, it was as delicious as it sounds. Heads up: this cake is a two-day process. There is a “truffle-like” filling that must chill overnight, so make one day ahead.
Filling:
Frosting
2 1/4 cups Heavy whipping cream 1/2 cup (Packed) golden brown sugar 12 ounces Semisweet or bittersweet chocolate (less than 61% cacao), chopped 1/2 cup Natural chunky peanut butter *Absolutely use all natural peanut butter. You can find this in the natural/organic section or your grocery store.
12 ounces Cream cheese, room temperature 1 1/4 cups Sugar (or powdered sugar) 3/4 cups Sugar (or powdered sugar) 6 tbsp. Salted sweet cream butter, room temperature 1 tsp. Vanilla extract 3/4 cup Chilled heavy whipping cream *Chopped butterfingers for topping
1. In a medium-sized saucepan, combine 2 1/4 cup cream and 1/2 cup brown sugar, and bring to a gentle simmer. Whisk to dissolve the sugar completely. When dissolved, remove from heat. 2. Add 12 oz. chopped chocolate, and whisk until melted and smooth. 3. Whisk in 1/2 cup natural peanut butter until smooth. 4. Chill uncovered overnight. Resist eating entire thing.
Cake: Ingredients
2 1/2 cups All purpose flour 1 teaspoon Baking powder 1 teaspoon Baking soda 1/4 tsp Salt 10 tbsp Salted sweet cream butter, room temperature 1/2 cup Natural chunky peanut butter 1 lb (~2 cups) Brown sugar 4 large eggs 1 teaspoon Vanilla extract 1 cup Buttermilk
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1. Preheat oven to 350F. Butter three 9-inch round pans and line with parchment paper.
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1. Beat cream cheese, 1 1/4 cup sugar, butter, and vanilla until creamy and smooth. 2. Whisk 3/4 cup sugar and cream by hand until relatively firm peaks form (about 5 minutes). 3. Fold cream mixture into cream cheese mixture in 3-4 additions. 4. Chill until cake is baked and cooled (about 1 hour).
2. In a medium bowl, combine flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. 3. Beat butter and peanut butter in a large bowl until creamy. 4. Add sugar. Add eggs one-at-a-time and then add vanilla. 5. Alternate adding flour mixture and buttermilk in 4 and 3 (respectively) additions. **WARNING: Do not taste the batter. You will not be able to stop. 6. Divide batter evenly among three pans. Bake at 350F for about 25 minutes. 7. Leave cakes in pans to cool on a rack for about 5 minutes. Turn cakes out onto racks and peel of parchment. Let cakes cool completely before frosting.
In the Kitchen
Decorating 1. Place first cake layer, bottom-side-up, on cake plate. Spread half of the filling over the top. 2. Place second cake layer, bottom-side-up, on top of first layer. Spread the remaining filling over the top. 3. Place final layer, bottomside-up, on top of second layer.
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4. Spread frosting evenly over top and sides. Top with crushed Butterfingers.
November 2011 17
In the Kitchen
Safety First: Temperature Fact Sheet By Madeline Martini
If you’re not already in the habit of using a thermometer in
the kitchen, you should start. There are less-reliable tricks that people use to gauge if food is properly cooked, including checking to see if the juices run clear and cutting a piece of meat in half to see if the inside is pink. But one out of four times, even though a hamburger isn’t pink on the inside, it will still be undercooked. On top of that, how do you know when an egg dish is done, or a casserole? Keeping an eye on temperature is a simple way to know for sure that your food is safe to eat. Here’s how to do it right:
145F: The minimum internal temperature to which you should
cook: Pork: chops, ribs, and roasts Beef/Veal: steaks and roasts Lamb: steaks and roasts Fish
145F
3: The minimum number of minutes resting time necessary to ensure that the cuts of meat (except fish) mentioned above are safe to consume.
160F: The minimum internal temperature to which you should cook: Pork: Ground Beef/Veal: Ground Lamb: Ground Egg dishes
160F
165F: The minimum internal temperature to which you
should cook: Turkey: Ground, breasts, legs/thighs/wings, whole Chicken: Ground, breasts, legs/thighs/wings, whole Casseroles Leftovers
15: The number of seconds a thermometer should be able to hold a temperature for it to be safe to eat.
4: The number of minutes a roast should be able to hold its The Dish
temperature for it to be safe to eat.
18 November November2011 2011
165F
In the Kitchen
Holding or Serving Food 2: The number of hours you should
keep perishable food out at room temperature.
1: The number of hours you should
keep perishable food out at room temperature if the room is warmer than 90°F.
94: The difference in degrees Fahren-
heit between 41°F and 135°F, a range considered to be the “Danger Zone” – the temperature at which pathogens will grow most rapidly.
20: The number of minutes that it
takes for bacteria to double in number when in the Danger Zone. Every. Twenty. Minutes.
6: The number of weeks you can still
become sick after eating food infected with some type of harmful bacteria.
140F: The temperature to which you should hold hot foods when serving a crowd (to do this, you can use a slow cooker, chafing dish, or warming tray).
Storing Food 0F: The temperature to which
you should freeze foods to maintain their best color, flavor, and to inactivate any harmful microorganisms that might be in the food.
2: The number of days a freezer
full of food will keep from spoiling if you lose power. Reduce to one day if the freezer is half-full.
40F: The temperature at which
you should keep all regions of your fridge so that most microorganisms will not grow.
7: The number of days you should keep leftovers before throwing them away.
40F: The temperature to which you
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should hold cold foods when serving a crowd (place small bowls of food in a larger bowl full of ice to keep the temperature stable).
November 2011 19
In the Kitchen
Viennese Apple Strudel How much do you know about apples? By Michelle Czarnecki
Ingredients: about 5 wolf river apples
Honey Crisp
1/2 cup raisins 1/4 cup dark rum
Golden Delicious
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 4 sheets frozen Filo dough, thawed As a slight chocolate addict, I often find it hard to make desserts that don’t have any chocolate in them. Recently though, I bought a bunch of Wolf River apples from Robert Pierce, a Madison area farmer, who suggested they would be great for baking. I had made some puff pastry dough as an experiment but had yet to find an opportunity to use it, so I decided to try and see if I could find a recipe to combine the apples and the puff pastry dough. I’m very interested in different cooking websites, so look out for my article coming soon on cookstr.com and epicurious.com. Cookstr. com actually allows you to search for recipes using ingredients that you might have. Hence, I discovered the recipe for Viennese Apple Strudel. When making any sort of filling with apples, I always make sure I nibble on one of the apples to test the flavor of the filling before I actually start baking it. You can avert a lot of apple disasters by testing, and it is super delicious as well. You should also try experimenting with the various common spices used in apple dishes and decide on your favorite combinations. Adding or mixing different spices can transform a dessert!
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Since I made my own puff pastry, I struggled a little with putting the entire strudel together. As you can see from the pictures, it looks a bit more like a meat pasty than a strudel, and yet, it is still delicious! One of the most important things to remember as you make the strudel is rationing the amount of apples as well as slicing the apples very thin. Otherwise, the puff pastry will soak up the apple juice and won’t retain its pleasant croissant crisp.
20 November November2011 2011
4 tablespoons butter, melted plus more for the baking sheet
Gingergold
Gala
2/3 cups fresh bread crumbs confectioner’s sugar for garnish
Instructions: 1. Preheat the oven to 350F. Butter a large baking sheet. Peel, core and cut the apples into ½ inch cubes. Combine in a bowl with the raisins, rum and vanilla. 2. Place a filo sheet on a work surface and brush with melted butter. Repeat with the remaining pastry sheets. 3. Sprinkle the breadcrumbs over the pastry, leaving a 1-inch border. Spoon the filling over the breadcrumbs. Fold in the short sides to cover about 1 inch of the filling. Starting from a long side, roll up the pastry, tucking in the filling if it escapes. Transfer to the baking sheet and brush with melted butter. 4. Bake for 30–40 minutes, brushing with the remaining melted butter after 20 minutes, until golden brown. 5. Let cool on the baking sheet. Sift liberally with confectioner’s sugar. Serve warm or at room temperature
Crispin
Empire
Fuji
Red Delicious
Red Rome
In the Kitchen
Mini
Vegan Pumpkin Bars
By Eric Lynne
November is such a great month to stay snuggled up inside. Whenever I think about my favorite warm and cozy place, I picture my grandma’s house. Autumn at Grandma’s house was always toasty and warm with her fireplace blazing. We would spend lots of time putting together puzzles, crocheting side-byside, and reminiscing about our travel adventures or dreaming about the next place we wanted to explore. November was always our last hurrah. Grandma usually left for Florida right after Thanksgiving, which meant I would lose my cozy location and my grandma’s warm spirit for the next five months or until the sun decided to return to Wisconsin. So we filled November to the brim with a baking extravaganza, making everything from Christmas cookies and homemade chocolate peanut butter fudge to Chex mix and custard pie. And every year, we made pumpkin bars to go along with our delicious Thanksgiving spread -- I can still smell the rich pumpkinspiced aroma coming from the oven!
Bake 25-30 minutes You’ll need: One 10-ounce ramekin or two 5-ounce ramekins (ramikins are individual-sized ceramic baking dishes 1/4 cup whole-wheat pastry flour 1/4 teaspoon baking powder 1/8 teaspoon baking soda pinch of salt 1 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice (alternatively you could use 1/3 teaspoon cinnamon, 1/3 teaspoon ginger and 1/3 teaspoon nutmeg) 1/3 cup canned pumpkin 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 2 tablespoons almond milk 3 tablespoons brown sugar 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
I decided to use Grandma’s classic pumpkin bars as inspiration for this vegan spin-off; and hey, why not make them individual-sized while we’re at it?
1. Preheat oven to 350F 2. Spray ramekin(s) with oil. 3. Mix dry ingredients: Whole-wheat pastry flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and pumpkin pie spice. 4. In a separate bowl, mix wet ingredients: Pumpkin, oil, almond milk, brown sugar and vanilla. 5. Combine dry and wet ingredients together, stirring only until incorporated. 6. Pour into prepared ramekin(s) and bake 25-30 minutes or until knife comes out clean when inserted in the center.
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7. When bars are cool, prepare the frosting by mixing vegan cream cheese, brown sugar and vanilla until smooth. Spread on cooled bars and enjoy!
November2011 2011 21 November
No Reservations In the Kitchen
A Word from No Reservations
In a city that boasts more than 350 restaurants, opportunities to open your mind and explore fresh dining
experiences are constantly cropping up. Writers for No Reservations, the section that gives the dish on the Madison Mecca of restaurants, embrace the city’s calling to eat out without constraint. When it comes to celebrating the local food scene, we’re experts. In this “Bundling Up & Getting Cozy” issue, we chose to feature inviting restaurants that envelop diners in a warm embrace with their soothing local food or comforting atmospheres. Writer Evan Prawda reviews The Weary Traveler Freehouse, the Willy Street pub that both regulars and passers-by can melt into for a night to enjoy an international menu, board games and words of wisdom. Not sure which pub suits your mood? Check out November’s Dining Dichotomies to see the how two more pubs, Brocach and The Coopers Tavern, compare. When the weary weather discourages you, read Cake Batter and Red Bull, Valerie Klessig’s Q&A with Madison Sweets sibling owners. Their savory or sweet cupcakes will reward your late nights harboring the storm in the library, but the dedicated journey of Katie and Don Olsen to achieve sweet success will make your all-nighters seem not as bad. Speaking of studying, November’s Elite Three uncovers three unique coffee shops perfect for reading textbooks and sipping on great coffee. If you’re the type that needs an adventurous night out to balance studying’s stress, Late Night Locale pays homage to a University classic, Deal of the Month explores sinus-clearing Thai soups, and No Reservations No Limitations comments on the inconsistently peculiar Matcha Teahouse. Whatever you find yourself doing to pass the chilly days, we report on the perfect Madison restaurant to complement your November nuances or simply warm you up.
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Always in good taste, Melissa Grau No Reservations Editor
22 November November2011 2011
No Reservations In the Kitchen
Matcha Teahouse By Joseph Shaul
Photo by Jennifer Beth
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Parked adjacent is a neighbor’s Miata. The price is exorbitant, it eats fuel, and the miniscule trunk makes extended travel only possible if visiting a nudist colony. But any glum thoughts of resale value are banished by the combination of pull-down top, howling engine, and lithe suspension. A Hyundai will save you money, but the little cabriolet can give you the sort of smile normally only possible through illegal substances. It’s this very dichotomy that defines a teahouse. Unlike the mad assembly line of a modern restaurant kitchen, dealing in tea is simplicity itself: obtain leaves, boil in water, and exchange for payment. The point of teahouses, much like the Miata convertible, is the experience. A serene setting and diverting ritual bring occasion to an otherwise mundane beverage, transforming an everyday occurrence into something special. There aren’t many venues that offer it successfully, but Matcha Teahouse on Monroe Street is one of them. Upon entering, one is immediately presented with a handwritten chalk menu of available stock. While not as large as the selection at Dobra, the menu provides excellent variety. A fixture is the Japanese matcha from which the teahouse derives its name: prepared exclusively from new growth ground into a fine powder, it’s definitely a try if you don’t mind the $10 a glass admission.
November 2011
A relatively mundane atmosphere on the ground floor gives way to a sequence of elaborately decorated tearooms upstairs. Exact authenticity is abandoned in favor of overall experience, and the net effect works well; the rooms are pleasantly novel without being kitch. The tearooms are available without reservation – just remove your shoes and walk on in. While my pot of fermented Chinese pu-erh black was good but unremarkable, the food deserves more attention. Aside from a few teahouse staples, the majority of the menu is iregularly available. Calling ahead to check the current selection is recommended. The corollary to the limited repoitoire and round-robin selecion is a rare and welcome focus on fresh ingredients, allowing a minimalist cooking style light on the salt or grease. The spicy tofu donburi wasn’t particularly complicated in flavor, but the quality far exceeds the Noodles & Co. equivalent at similar price. The lemon basil cookies are airy, rich, and far more approachable than the unusual flavoring would suggest. This focus on ingredients is also of note to vegans and customers allergic to gluten, for the staff is happy to answer any questions in regards to ingredients or prep. Much of the menu is gluten-free, including some of the pastries. It’s good, too – the gluten-free cupcakes are better than many I’ve had with wheat flour. It’s difficult to create a novel experience without moving into the realm of the bizarre. A mid-60s racing Ferrari is unique for its sensuous curves and vacuum-cleaner-on-acid engine note; the contemporary Ford Pinto is equally unique for exploding in minor collisions. Matcha has managed to place itself firmly in the sought-after “experience” category. It’s peculiarly unpredictable and definitely out-of-theordinary, but I wouldn’t have it any other way.
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Last week, a combination of bad luck and mechanical ineptitude reduced my mother’s car to a heavily insured paperweight. While various technicians prodded at the wires, she was granted use of something called an “Elantra.” I use quotations because describing it as car is a bit of a stretch. Four cylinders duly throb up and down and the seats appear durable enough, but it’s a world of squeaky plastics and gelatin suspension. The overall effect is akin to riding in a washing machine.
November November 2011 2011 23
In the Kitchen
Belletto said Bison Jack’s is one of the only all-bison restaurants in the world, and he described it as a “premium fast-casual concept.” It is a not a sit-down restaurant with servers, but it is not a typical fast-food restaurant, either. Bison Jack’s went from being just an idea to a fully functioning restaurant in a rather short amount of time, he said. “Normally, to develop a fast-casual concept, from concept to open, takes 18 to 24 months. We did this in 10,” Belletto said. “It very well could be one of the fastest developments that I know of.”
Bison Jacks By Kelly Larson
Bison meat is lean, mean and located 15 minutes by car from the UW-Madison campus at Bison Jack’s, a restaurant that specializes in bison products. Bison Jack’s officially opened on Thursday, Oct. 20 in Middleton and does not serve any other meat but bison. Hot dogs and sausages are the specialty, but customers can also buy bison burgers and choose from sides such as baked fries and sweet tots. As the first Bison Jack’s, it is a prototype for a national concept. This means the goal is to eventually open other Bison Jack’s restaurants around the country once it establishes itself in the Madison area. Owner Joe Ricketts said he wanted the restaurant’s food to be healthy, affordable and tasty. He’s off to a good start serving only bison meat because it is especially healthy. According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, bison meat, also called buffalo meat, is lower in saturated fat and calories than beef, pork, chicken and salmon. Additionally, bison meat is low in cholesterol and sodium and high in iron.
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Bison Jack’s serves meat from High Plains Bison, a Colorado-based company also owned by Ricketts. According to its website, High Plains Bison sells all-natural bison meat devoid of hormones and artificial ingredients. Ricketts’ confidence in High Plains Bison and his passion for bison and healthy food gave him the idea for Bison Jack’s. While Ricketts conceived the idea for Bison Jack’s, he asked Vision 360, an architectural design and development firm in the hospitality industry, to design, develop, execute and oversee the concept for him, said Brad Belletto, CEO of Vision 360.
November 2011
Customers place their order – which can be customized – at the counter, pay at the register and wait to collect their meal before sitting down. While Bison Jack’s is more expensive than the average fast-food restaurant, customers do not have to leave tips because the restaurant has no servers. Guests to the restaurant can choose from eight specialty dogs, including the Wisconsin brat, the Texas dog and an Italian sausage. Bison Jack’s is also open for breakfast —7 a.m. on weekdays, 9 a.m. on Saturdays and 11 a.m. on Sundays — and offers a breakfast burrito and a Rise-n-Shine item. High Plains Bison is located in Colorado, and Vision 360 is based in Texas. Some may wonder, ‘Why build the first Bison Jack’s in Middleton, Wis.?’ According to Belletto, market research indicated that Madison was number 11 out of a list of 900 possible cities in the U.S. that fit certain geographic and demographic criteria such as education, income and health. After more deliberation and consideration, Middleton and the Madison area became the primary location choice for the first-ever Bison Jack’s. Belletto said population size was one motive for this decision. Costs associated with advertising would be lower since this area has a relatively smaller population size compared to cities like Minneapolis and Boston, he said. So, what’s next for this innovative and unique establishment? Belletto said one goal is to build a few more restaurants in the Madison area. The next Bison Jack’s location may be on State Street or somewhere in downtown Madison. The success of Bison Jack’s in the Madison area will determine how many more establishments open their doors throughout the nation.
In the Kitchen
Weary World Traveler By Evan Prawda
Off the beaten track, The Weary Traveler Freehouse sits on the corner of Williamson and South Few Streets. Designed to resemble an old-fashioned pub, The Weary Traveler welcomes anyone to enjoy an eclectic international menu and alluring atmosphere. With the lights dimly set, radical posters lining the walls and the beat of familiar tunes resonating throughout the room, an inviting scene awaits. Opened in January 2002, “The Weary,” as regulars and employees call it, “was founded originally to draw in the contemporary ‘hipster’ crowd, but has proven to do much more than that,” coowner Bregan Fuller said. Whether going for a family dinner, to celebrate a roommate’s birthday, or stopping by for drinks after a long day of work, The Weary Traveler Freehouse accommodates people of all ages and interests. The back wall alongside the bar is lined with board games to entertain children who can’t sit still through a Sunday morning brunch or some mildly inebriated college students. What is unique about “The Weary” is its independent nature and its atmosphere – there are no televisions – which make it a place where guests can comfortably converse and dine without blaring distractions. The term “freehouse” denotes the independent persona The Weary Traveler embodies and also explains the nature of their business. “The products used at ‘The Weary’ all come from small independent local businesses, and although this may be rather cost-ineffective for our business, it’s necessary to keep these local dealers from closing down,” Bregan proudly stated. Although organic produce may not be the restaurant’s main concern, fresh, high-quality food that is also reasonably priced is. Along with fresh goods, the establishment frequently receives deliveries of a wide variety of beer to be served on tap, which can accompany any meal and also bring a little extra life to the party. A specialty brew that’s a customer favorite is the Capital Seasonal Fest, also known as “SummerFest.” When it comes time to order, head chef Joey Dunscombe has prepared an extensive menu of “international comfort foods,” which is the way both Joey and Bregan tend to describe The Weary Traveler’s cuisine. The menu ranges from a homemade Hungarian
Goulash to the signature Bob’s Bad Breath Burger or The West of the Andes Sandwich. It also provides a few options for vegans, such as The Ramblin’ Vegan’s Chili or The Weary’s Tom Ka Tof, as well as many other vegetarian options to truly satisfy the needs of everyone. “The West of the Andes Sandwich is my favorite dish here and has yet to disappoint,” guest Jacob Moffatt said. The “West of the Andes Sandwich,” is a classic option and can be prepared for a carnivorous or vegetarian diet. This creation’s consists of thick slices of avocado, pico de gallo and a slightly spicy chipotle mayonnaise. It comes with a choice of juicy beef tenderloin, grilled tuna steak or a blend of roasted veggies on a homemade bun. “The menu at ‘The Weary’ is rather set in stone,” said Joey. “We have lots of regular customers who always order the same meal, and to keep everyone satisfied we can’t alter the menu too much.” The extensive menu is never limited. It’s always complemented by a nightly special, which is regularly updated on Joey Dunscombe’s twitter (@Wearychefjoey). The Weary Traveler opens around noon on most days and can get crowded quickly for brunch on the weekends. The nighttime allure is not to miss. The restaurant does not take reservations and tends to fill up rather quickly during popular meal times. ‘The Weary’ stays buzzing throughout the night, with an open kitchen and stocked bar – the entertainment doesn’t cease until close at one in the morning. “I love to come here with friends for a few drinks and a great meal and can expect a great time any night of the week,” said UWMadison fifth-year senior Matthew Mattila. He especially enjoys the uniquely late hours “The Weary” has. “Being able to get quality food that late at night is a hard find,” he said. The Weary Traveler Freehouse provides an enjoyable experience for just about anyone. The amiable wait staff, knowledgeable bartenders, and exceptional service all combine to compliment the great food and comfortable atmosphere. Make sure to check out ‘The Weary’ at night to get the complete dining experience.
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Photos By Adam Schwartz
November 2011
November 2011
In the Kitchen
Rising Sons Deli By Keenan Lampe
Deal of the Month
The Dish
As some of you may have noticed, it has gotten a bit chilly here in Madison. By now, summer feels like a distant memory and autumn is quickly bidding Madison farewell. We are all bracing ourselves for the infamous Wisconsin winter. At this time of year, few things are better than a lot of hot food for not a lot of money. Luckily, Rising Sons Deli specializes in such a bargain. Rising Sons is a family-owned-and-operated Thai food restaurant on State Street. Unfortunately, they do not accept credit or debit cards. However, since any full meal only costs around ten dollars, this is only a minor inconvenience – one that is easily overlooked while escaping the wind’s awful bite. While some might think the restaurant is cramped, I found it to be cozy and well adorned with a plethora of Asian decorations. They have made efficient use of the limited space with a combination of table seating and a diner-style counter that offers guests a full view of the food preparation. If the atmosphere isn’t enough to make a patron feel nice and toasty, the food is guaranteed to finish the job. The menu has all the essentials of a Thai food restaurant, including an extensive list of curry options. However, the deal of all deals offered is the noodle soups. For $5.95, Rising Sons Deli will place in front of you a giant bowl of soul-warming deliciousness. When I say giant, I mean big enough to drown in. Guests will more than likely have enough left to take home for another meal later in the week. I recommend the coconut chicken noodle soup. Normally, I do my best to avoid anything with coconut, but this is one of the very few exceptions. The coconut is used to greet the taste buds with a lovely wave of sweetness as the Thai spices roll in behind to turn up the heat. The presence of the enhancing spices is clearly evident by the rich orange color of the broth. In addition, the soup has a hearty, but not overly thick, consistency. Finally, just below the surface of the liquid, a mound of noodles and well-distributed chicken chunks is nestled into the ceramic bucket they call a bowl. As I left Rising Sons Deli, I received one last reminder of its small business appeal in the form of a free tootsie roll. Just as the menus say, “We’re not a chain, just everyday people serving good food.” The sentiment behind the candy as well as a belly full of inexpensive soup can help keep just about anyone from freezing as winter looms in the near future.
November 2011
Photos by Kimmy Tran
In the Kitchen
Elite Three: Best Study Spot By Megan McDowell
As the excitement of autumn begins to dwindle and signs of winter begin to appear, the fall semester tends to become exhaustingly monotonous. That beginning-of-the-school-year energy disappears into weekly routines and overly familiar sceneries, like your dorm’s study room or your go-to library. When you wake up on a Sunday morning with an overwhelming amount of studying, paper-writing, or projectdoing to tackle, I invite you to veer from your usual path and explore some of Madison’s finest coffeehouses. Within them, you will find a fresh atmosphere and a menu of coffee (and non-coffee) drinks waiting to be freshly crafted with expertly roasted coffee beans from around the world.
Ancora Coffee Roasters
Bradbury’s
Ancora Coffee Roasters produces small batch, artisan roasted coffee that has become nationally recognized since the business launched in 1994. Ancora runs two coffeehouses as well as a roasteria to which Arabica coffee beans are sent from the most prominent coffee-growing regions on the globe: Indonesia, Africa and the America’s. “The artisan roasting process that Ancora’s roasters use require constant vigilance of the bean during the roast,” said Jason Wessels, Vice President.
A few blocks off Capitol Square on North Hamilton rests Bradbury’s, a small coffeehouse which opened just a few years ago in 2008. Bradbury’s serves Kickapoo coffee, roasted in Viroqua, Wis. as well as guest espresso from roasters throughout the country. Open from 6:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. (5:30 p.m. on the weekends), Bradbury’s is a must for coffee-lover students.
Carefully crafted coffee is prepared by baristas who begin their journey as coffee enthusiasts with a “Coffee 101” lesson at the roasteria. “This training regimen separates Ancora from the competition because it happens at the corporate training café rather than in the stores,” said Wessels. White zombies, a term unique to Ancora, are highly caffeinated lattes made with cafe bianco (white coffee) instead of espresso. The bianco beans are simply coffee beans that are not roasted as long as a medium or dark roast. Because of this, double the caffeine is still contained in the bean, providing extra energy to a last minute cram session. Additionally, white zombies do not have a coffee taste, but a nutty, malty flavor. Wessels adds, “It’s really quite addictive!”
Bradbury’s menu offers a host of creative items, uncommon to your average coffeehouse. The left side of the menu lists several methods with which Bradbury’s coffee can be prepared including: drip, pour over, French press, and Japanese siphon. “Every method of brewing coffee adds something unique to the end product,” maintains Makoutz. On the right side of the menu, Bradbury’s offers a list of both “sweet” and “savory” crepes featuring locally sourced, organic and seasonal ingredients. “Responsible food choices are the backbone of what we do with food,” said Makoutz. “Not something special that we happen to add to our menu every once in a while.” While the wait for a crepe order might be long depending on customer traffic, the meal is well worth the wait.
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The coffee shop location on University Avenue, open from 7:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. on the weekends, is situated next to Klinke Cleaners, a few blocks from the UW Hospital. After a short bus ride, it is the perfect spot to enjoy a carefully prepared coffee or tea drink while writing a paper or studying for an upcoming exam. The space is small, but welcoming and comfortable. Illuminated during the winter season, the fireplace adds a homelike quality to the café. Cozy chairs in front provide an irresistible seat in which to sit down with a book and catch up on last week’s reading assignments.
Although very small, the space inside Bradbury’s is fresh and energizing. Large glass windows surround the outside of the building, adding a breathable quality to an otherwise quaint area and allowing bright, natural light to fill the café. Counter-styled seating lines the windows, and an “L” shaped table sits in the center of the space, providing a sense of connectedness.
November 2011 27
In the Kitchen
Barriques
Across from Trader Joe’s on Monroe Street, Barriques wine cave and coffee shop serves a wonderful selection of coffee, wine, and sandwiches from early morning until nightfall. The term “barrique” is an oak barrel in which wines, typically Bordeaux, are aged. Originally opened as just a wine cave, owners Matt Weygandt and Finn Berge decided to explore the coffee trade in 2003 and have now established themselves well in the coffee business. As of this August, Barriques opened their own roasteria on South Park Street and began roasting their own coffee beans. “We feel so much more connected with what we’re selling now that we manufacture it ourselves,” said Weygandt. Barriques now offers African, Central American and South American coffees as well as their own crafted blends. The espresso blend, Weygandt recalls, was particularly difficult to pin. “We tasted probably dozens of different iterations and tweaks,” he said. Following several trials, the Barriques team arrived at a blend that pulls a sweet and caramel-ish tasting espresso shot. Upon walking through the coffee shop’s doors on Monroe Street, customers are greeted with a compact space and a series of tables. Although small, Barriques has a comfortable and calm ambiance, complemented by dark, neutral colors throughout. “We get a quite a few of students studying here,” said Weygandt. “We offer free and fast wi-fi and practically priced food.”
The Dish
Barriques’ menu contains a wellbalanced list of sandwiches, salads, soups and a breakfast menu. Weygandt suggests the “Chucky Tuna” made with Hooks three-year cheddar, tomato and scallions on Madison rye.
November 2011
In the Kitchen
Dining Dichotomies: Brocach v. Coopers Tavern By Melissa Grau
Top pubs are often revered as a home away from home, a haven conducive to both revelry and relaxation, a cozy corner capable of exploding with the boisterous laughter of old and new friends, and a warm sanctuary for hearty European fare and beer on tap. No restaurant category encourages community, commemoration, or craic (the Irish term for lively entertainment or buzz) as much as a “public house.” Two of the most dynamic and delicious Madison pubs reside on Capitol Square—the authentic Irish tavern, Brocach, and the newer European gastro pub, The Coopers Tavern. Both offer distinctly unique yet compatible communal experiences. True to Irish camaraderie mentality, there is little competition between the two. In fact, Coopers owner Peter McElvanna moved from Ireland to Manhattan to Madison and then worked as a bartender and manager of Brocach. When he fulfilled his ambition to open his own restaurant, McElvanna’s old coworkers at Brocach expressed full support. Brocach’s Cliff McDonald described the relationship as a part of the “tight-knit community” of great Capitol Square restaurants. “They’ll send people here, we’ll send people there,” said McDonald. “Then we’ll go to each other’s place after work and just share a couple pints.”
Brocach combines Wisconsin pride and Ireland tradition within its Gaelic name that means, “Badger den.” Adjacent to the Capitol, Brocach identifies itself as an authentic Irish pub with vintage cushioned couches in concealed corners, long wooden tables next to the fire hearth and deep red dividers with personal touches. One red entryway called “Foley’s Corner” pays tribute to an old Brocach employee whose father passed away. “He really exhibited what Irish culture is all about,” said McDonald. And what is Irish culture all about? “Just enjoying life.” The exposed brick in sections of the walls, shelves supporting worn books and oil lamps, and artistic Gaelic phrases at the bar complete the interior, providing an intimate, welcoming and friendly atmosphere. Besides looking the part, the traditional food, flowing Guinness, and consistent Friday night fiddlers support the façade. Friday’s Irish musicians have performed for Brocach for the past five years. “People can’t really tell if they’re just people that decided to play for the fun of it or if they are actually paid to play,” McDonald said. Some of the most popular menu items include Irish specialties like the Shepherd’s Pie, Bangers and Mash and Corned Beef & Cabbage. A seasoned server said that perhaps the most underrated Irish dish is the Irish stew with lamb, sirloin and root vegetables in a Guinness broth. My favorite is the beer cheese dip with pretzel breadsticks.
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Surely it’s the Irish fare, fun and familiarity that keep those who consistently occupy the same barstools coming back. It combines comfort with an unmistakable community vibe. When asked to describe Brocach, a patron simply exclaimed to me the traditional Irish toast to health, “Sláinte!” On the other side of the Capitol, you’ll find The Coopers Tavern, which McElvanna opened in January of 2010 with the desire November 2011 to support local food producers and provide Madison with an
No Reservations In the Kitchen exceptional restaurant situated within an extensive bar. “A cooper was the most important person in the neighborhood,” said McElvanna. They built the containers for beer, wine, water, butter and transporting, and according to McElvanna, Coopers Tavern pays homage to their essential work. Only 2.5 miles from The Coopers Tavern, the last American cooperage, Frank J. Hess & Sons Cooperage, closed its beer barrel manufacturing business in 1966 after decades as Wisconsin’s largest white oak barrel producer. The restaurant décor therefore incorporates wooden barrels, from the foundation of roundtables to artistic photographs on the wall. Like a cooper, the Tavern certainly acts as an essential component to Madison’s agricultural neighborhood. Over 50 local farmers, butchers, bakers and dairy producers provide food for Coopers chefs to craft creatively fresh dishes. McElvanna is uncompromising in Cooper’s community commitment to adhere to its “farm to table” practices. “It’s just the right thing to do,” McElvanna repeatedly insisted. “You can buy it from California cheaper, but what’s the point? What goes around comes around, you know?” McElvanna sees Coopers’ local support pay off when farmers come into the restaurant to eat after the Saturday market or when familiar faces return again and again. This small town moral code also benefits the environment. For instance, New Century Farms supplies Coopers with eggs and then utilizes Coopers’ leftover cooking oil to fuel their trucks with biodiesel energy.
Of course, one of the best results from farm to table restaurants is the delicious food. As the wind blew outside on a Wednesday afternoon, I gratefully melted into a thick, slightly spicy Madison-beef chili balanced by Irish cheddar and sour cream for lunch. For dinner, I recommend their excellently prepared fish and chips paired with Belgian frites with applepear slaw and anchovy tartar sauce. Otherwise, try their pork chop with apple chutney or take advantage of their seasonal specials. The overall atmosphere of Coopers is airier and sleeker than Brocach, with light wood fixtures, baby blue walls and old beer bottle vases filled with dried flowers. Certainly the most unique interior feature is the secluded compartment attached seamlessly to the bar called the “snug.” A tradition until the late 1900s in Ireland, the snug separated women from men in the bar, providing a closed off space for females to chat or play cards. Instead of taking a feminist point of view, I’m framing it as a room conducive to Irish drinking and girls gone wild. Sought-after today as part of an entertaining dining adventure at Coopers, the snug is first-come, first-serve like the rest of the pub. Let’s not forget that pub aspect. “We are more of a beer bar, that’s our theme,” said McElvanna. “Brocach’s theme is being Irish.” Coopers offers 28 draft beers that of course focus on local brews as well as imports from Belgium, Germany, Ireland and Scotland. Their drink menu is extensive and includes a wide range of drinks from around the world.
The The Dish Dish
November weather is dreary, gray, and chilly, beckoning woolen winter apparel to wrap itself around frozen fingers and exposed necks. But both Brocach and The Coopers Tavern invite you to take a load off and take the hat off. Stay for a while. Soon you’ll feel the warm smile spread across your face as you converse over a refreshing beer and a comforting dish that emphasizes the great community we live in—in spite of the cold.
30 November November 2011 2011
In the Kitchen
am by Ad Photo
artz
Schw
Cake Batter and Red Bull The first documented evidence of Madison Sweets founder Katie Olsen’s passion for baking is a photograph taken of her doing just that at two years old. Twenty-one years later, the fruits of her labor – cupcakes baked from scratch – earned her the 2011 Taste of Madison’s Best Gourmet Desert award. She estimates she sold some 3,000 cupcakes at the event. Starting at an early age, Katie would spend one day every month baking at her grandma’s house. This tradition continued until she went to college. Katie graduated from UW-Stout in May 2009. Earlier that spring, she and her older brother, Don, discovered they both would be furthering their education in Madison – Don at the UW-Madison Law School and Katie at the UW-Madison Business Graduate School. That summer, Katie moved to Madison, and the siblings purchased a house together. In fall, they started working on their respective degrees. Neither Katie nor Don had any idea that in four months, they would embark upon a new business endeavor together. In December, as the autumn sun retreated in anticipation of the long Wisconsin winter, a retail space for sale on State Street caught her eye. Katie had an idea: she was going to open her own store. Shortly thereafter, Katie and Don purchased the storefront at 511 State Street, with help from
their dad and grandma. She spent her winter break scrubbing floors, painting walls and mapping out a plan. In January 2010, Madison Sweets opened. The store offers passersby an enticing aroma – one of homemade specialty popcorn and fresh-out-of-the-oven cupcakes. Katie prides herself on baking everything from scratch, and her first priority is to give patrons a delicious product at price conducive to a student’s checkbook. When I walk into the store for our interview, Katie greets me cheerfully. I learn she owns the store with her brother. Don then happens to arrive, and I jump at the opportunity to interview this dynamic brother-sister duo. I ask Don, “Oh, so you own this place, too?” And he replies, “Well, sort of. I just ride her coattails.” He chuckles. We talk about the joys – and the occasional challenges – of running a family business. Val: So, you’re business partners. Growing up, were you partners in crime? Don: Nope – enemies. The story we always tell is that when we were little we could never agree on what games we wanted to play together … So, I would make her sign a contract. I’d
The Dish
By Valarie Klessig
November 2011
In the Kitchen
They smile at the memories. Growing up, the two tell me, they witnessed what it was like to be self-employed. Both their grandma and dad owned businesses. Val: So, you come from a long line of entrepreneurs. How did that play a role in shaping you as young business owners? Katie: I think it made us more comfortable with the thought of running our own business. I know how long my grandma was [at her business] during the day, and I know how long my dad was at work. And, you get used to it. I’m here basically seven days a week, and it’s not a huge deal.
done.
Photo by Adam Schwartz
Val: So, she calls the shots? Don: Yep, that’s absolutely right. She’s in charge, and I step back, and that’s what we’ve implicitly agreed to.
I like this guy, I decide. Val: What prompted you to open your own business? Katie: The opportunity was there, and I thought, ‘Well, what the heck, why not just try it?’ It’s got to probably be better than working in a cubicle somewhere, which is where I would be right now. Val: So you would take 12 hours a day/ 7 days a week job over a 9-5 / 5 days a week office job?
Val: What is your weekly workload like?
Giving it hardly any thought, she responds with a simple “yes.”
Katie: I average about 12 hours a day, pretty much seven days a week. I try to get some time off on the weekends, but it doesn’t always pan out.
Val: So, how did you prepare yourselves to open your own business?
I turn to Don, who does not look surprised in the least by what his sister said. Val: What is your role here?
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Don: Technically, co-owner, but basically I’m just support staff ... If anything is going to fall apart because Katie can’t pull it together because of all the things she has to get done, then I’ll try to step in and help make sure it gets
November 2011
Don: While we didn’t have any direct experience with this business idea all together, bits and pieces were pulled from our past experiences. [Katie] has always been a baker, and we worked with popcorn growing up. When my dad had the popcorn business, I was 12 and working making caramel corn. And she was, too. Winter break was … the busiest time of the year, so we were 10 and 12 and doing 10 to 12 hour days then, making popcorn, filling tins and sealing them.
The Dish
write out a contract about what we were going to do, and I’d agree to play her game first. And then, as soon as we finished playing her game, the contract was ripped up, and I just had to deal with it.
November 2011 5
In the Kitchen
with butter cream and cookie dough and dipped in chocolate.” They couldn’t find the official onomatopoeia for drooling, so they made one up. Val: So, this campus is in the midst of midterm exams, and it’s starting to get colder. What a perfect time to buy a cupcake to take home and enjoy with a hot cup of coffee. What are some typical customer motivations for stopping in? Katie: I have a lot of people who say they’ve had a bad exam, and then they come and buy a cupcake. It’s a sweet comfort food.
We then start talking about an interest Katie and Don share: they like to work. Without question, they are downright work-aholics. Katie: Sometimes I’ve been so engrossed in a project … and I realize, ‘Oh, I haven’t eaten for two days. Maybe I should stop and eat.’ And, I’m not hungry – I don’t even think about it. Don: It’s like, ‘Oh, I haven’t eaten today. Oh, a handful of frosting will fix that. That will perk me for the next couple of hours and then I’ll worry about it when I get home.’
Katie tells me cake batter is her typical breakfast. She went as far to say she lives on “cake batter and Red Bull.” She’s pulled 24-hour and 36-hour shifts – arriving at 6 a.m. and leaving at 6 p.m. the following day. Katie will do everything she can to ensure things go smoothly and keep Madison Sweets overflowing with fresh, scrumptious cupcakes. Val: How do you do it? Katie: I’ve set goals for myself, and now I think I can decorate 200 and some cupcakes an hour if I do big batches ... I can’t bake them that fast – I can only bake probably 150 [cupcakes] an hour.
Only?! Wow.
Val: So you’d spend your Christmas holidays, when most kids pass the time sledding with friends, helping your dad with his business?
That inspired a laugh and two big grins. Don informs me, “We don’t take time off.” Val: So, you said your roommate created the first 10 cupcake flavors. How did you come up with additional flavors? Katie: I’d be at the grocery store and think, ‘Oh, I wonder if I could make a cake out of that?’ [For instance] our tomato basil cake is a tomato cake [with] a basil cream cheese frosting, and then I put parmesan cheese on it. It’s actually really delicious.
One of their most creatively named innovations is, courtesy of Don, called, “Galaallalal”. Katie describes it as “a chocolate chip cookie filled
I leave with a big smile and a pumpkin cupcake. As I bite into the delightful creation, the rich cream cheese frosting kisses my nose. I walk toward the capitol, looking at the eclectic storefronts lining State Street. I wonder how many of them are family-owned like Madison Sweets, reflecting on the two incredible young people I just met. The next all-nighter I pull, I decide, I will not complain.
The Dish Dish The
Photo by Adam Schwartz
Don: When she goes in those modes, my job is to just get things out of her way or into her way as best I can. If I know she’s done with a pan, I get it out of her way and washed. And, to get her working as fast as she can, I have to try to anticipate where she’s going and just put stuff in front of her, like, ‘Oh, she’s going to need a spatula in three seconds. Quick! Throw it at her.’ And then she can take the spatula and start using it, and while she’s doing that, I’ll wash the next dish I know she’s going to need. When I say I’m support staff, I’m trying to make sure she works as efficiently as she can.
November November2011 2011 33
No Reservations In the Kitchen
Late Night Locale By Brian Zapp
Ed’s Express, home of the famous Juston Sticks and regularly rambunctious new college students, is located off West Johnson Street in Gordon Commons. It’s easy for anyone living in the Southeast dorms or apartments on University Avenue to duck in for a quick bite, especially if you want to be in frigid air as little as possible. But you better be quick about it indeed—Ed’s will be closed at the start of the 2012 academic year. There are two very distinct peak hours at Ed’s, and if you’re familiar with this campus or the classic routine at Ed’s, I’m sure you can guess them. The dinner rush at Ed’s starts around 5:00 p.m. and cools off around 7:00 p.m. Obviously people eat here all day, but this is when you’ll find people pushing eight of the well-worn tables together and arguing over chairs. On weekends, this dinner rush is when people go to “carb up” before a night out on the town. It’s loud, and there’s usually a crowd centered on the TV trying, in vain, to watch a show they all follow religiously (most notably Jersey Shore). There’s nothing wrong with coming to Ed’s for dinner. It’s cheap and close, but the food isn’t anything spectacular…yet.
The Dish
The meat and potatoes of the Ed’s experience is in the sloppy charm of late night dining. The place is absolutely packed with people returning home from the night’s adventures or those who never actually made it further than across the street. They’re all loud and unaware they’re even shouting. The whole staff is angry they have to work on a weekend, so they hate you as you order. None of that matters, though. Your main priority is getting the pizza of your dreams with some sought-after Juston sticks. The crazy combinations of ingredients for pizzas, rice bowls, nachos, or burritos are endless, but not all of them are winners. As a general rule, bacon, BBQ, jalapenos and pepperoni are the best thing to put on your pizza. I know when you’re there, you’ll already have your mind set on something, but if you’re going nuts making more check marks on the order form than there are boxes, you should at least stay away from the pineapple. You’ll end up taking a bite of your overflowing masterpiece and find that the only thing you can taste is
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the texture of that citrus fruit. Otherwise, the pizzas are greasy enough for you to know what you’re eating, but it’s not going to drip down your arm while you feast. No munch session at Ed’s is complete without an order of Juston sticks. Basically, they’re cheese sticks in the shape of a pizza. It’s nothing out of the ordinary. However, as the night goes on, the more magically delicious they become. Throw in some dipping sauces, and you’ve got an awesome concoction. A personal favorite of mine is the BBQ sauce, but any addition would take you the extra mile. Due to some blubbering blunder of mine, I recently received a cup of salsa as a dipping sauce and let me tell you--not bad. Give it a try. A bit of a mystery surrounds Juston sticks’ namesake. Even the most devout Juston stick devourers aren’t sure where the name comes from. I asked students during the first rush for thoughts on the origin of the name and everyone had the same boring answer: the first guy to cut a cheese pizza without sauce into bread sticks. But when I asked the late night crowd, things got more interesting. There were a bunch of “Justin Bieber” and “Justin Timberlake” responses. A few clever people thought it stood for “just-in case you’re drunk” or “just-on the weekend.” But my favorite derivation by far came from three guys in ponchos and bandanas in the back of the dining room with a stack of six boxes of Juston sticks. Juston, apparently, is a mystical lion that was banished from his tribe for not accepting the deliciousness of their life force (aka Juston sticks), and he now must travel from place to place, teaching others about this cheesy life force so they will avoid this mistake. I eventually asked a manager and, although he did not know for sure, he guessed they are most likely named after the guy who created them. Personally, I’m content believing the lion story.
In the Kitchen
A Word from Food for Thought Food is the great equalizer. People need to eat to live, and in a sense people live to eat. You can pay for a nice meal at sit down restaurant, or make your own in the kitchen. Regardless of what you are eating or how you choose to eat it, have you ever really thought about how food influences your life? Entire careers are made based solely on the fact that people like to eat. Whether it is a chef, a nutritionist or a personal trainer, food has had such an impact on these individual’s lives that their jobs would cease to exist if the desire to eat disappeared completely. Food can also be used to explore religions and traditions. Some religions forbid the consumption of certain foods, and some encourage it. Think of the traditions you have for Thanksgiving dinner – have you ever considered how important food is to the holidays? Ham and eggnog at Christmas time, barbeque for the Fourth of July, matzo ball soup for Passover; why are these dishes tied to celebrations in the first place? This year, we hope to answer all these questions and more in the “Food for Thought” section of The Dish. We hope to dig deeper than the excellent restaurant reviews and recipes found throughout the magazine, and explore a deeper meaning behind the importance of food. We will examine the history behind iconic meals and interview top chefs to find out what food really means to someone who works with it for a living each day. We will consider the cultural implications of food, and the significance of eating for religious purposes. It is my hope that you will not devour this portion of The Dish without carefully thinking about how food impacts your life and the lives of those close to you. Enjoy reading, and of course – happy eating,
The Dish
Brittany Johnson Food for Thought Editor
November 2011 35
In the Kitchen
College Food Choices By Emily Wessing
The Dish
College is all about independence. There’s independence to do what we want to do, feel what we want to feel, be who we want to be, and just about everything is left up to our own judgment and choices. Yes, college is a new beginning, and a chance for reinvention. However, with that reinvention comes the reinvention of something else – our diet. A dwindling bank account can lead us to make poor choices about the food we put in our bodies – and this can lead to disastrous outcomes. No one wants to be the victim of the “Freshman 15“ – or worse – the “Freshman Anything Past the Point of No Return.” We all like to assume that packing on the pounds won’t happen to us – after all, that’s just some myth that happens to those other people. Well, listen up. As a freshman, I’m determined to make sure I don’t become part of the “Freshman 15” standard. Interested in keeping your self-control as well? Read on.
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Food Thought In thefor Kitchen
First of all, in order to truly avoid bad food choices, we need to realize what those poor choices are. Let’s consider the typical dining hall. Oh, it’s tempting to reach for that slice of pizza or that bag of chips simply because it’s easy and “on the go,” but is it really worth it? The answer is, quite frankly, no. The more junk food that processes through the body, the more nasty little demons like carbs, salt and sugar creep in and become a staple in our diets. It’s so very easy to fall into a trend and not realize you’re falling into it – after all, people follow trends for a reason. Instead, the next time you go on a college shopping trip, stock up. Stocking up on health foods like fruit (such as bananas, apples, peaches or pears), veggies (like carrots, tomatoes, broccoli or celery), granola bars (be careful buying these, and be sure to check labels!) and yogurt are all easy things to take on the go that won’t expand your waistline. The same goes for beverages. About to reach for that caffeine fix? Be careful. A cup of coffee can prove to be beneficial. However, downing a bottle of Coke? Not so much. Instead, go for the best option and grab a bottle of water to give your body what it really wants. Trust me, it’ll thank you later.
The The Dish Dish
What needs to be understood about college life is that everything is made quite readily available to those that are in search of it. Need a tutor? Simple. Need to grab some cash from the ATM? Piece of cake. But do you need to reach for that piece of cake? Not so much. We all had our favorite comfort food back home. It was great, and every so often Mom would pick it up in an unexpected display of great parenting. The important thing to remember in college is that those comfort foods back home were occasional. Here, they can become an everyday thing. The next important rule to remember is enjoy sparingly. Need some Ben and Jerry’s? That’s fine. Do you need some Ben and Jerry’s every night? That’s not fine. Having some self-discipline in realizing that availability of treats is on a much greater scale than in high school will help the eager eater to take a step back and rethink choices.
November 2011 37
In the Kitchen
The Dish
The final piece of advice I have for you college students out there struggling to keep off the pounds is quite simple – monitor your portion control. Eating at the dining halls once in a while is fine – just don’t overindulge. Dining halls have options for every eater out there, to cater to the grand diversity of a college campus.. Take small portions, and you’ll thank yourself later. Just because the dessert looks good at the time doesn’t mean it will look good on your hips later. Eat smart, and your body will shed smart as well.
November 2011
In the Kitchen
Why do we get sleepy after eating Turkey on Thanksgiving? By Hannah Weinberg-Kinsey
According to Anne Marie Helmenstein, Ph.D, it is not simply the turkey, or even just the sheer volume of food that sends us into tranquil slumbers on that fourth Thursday of November, but instead the perfect storm of a number of factors. Turkey does contain an amino acid called L-tryptophan that has been documented to regulate sleep and has calming effects. However, to be effective, L-tryptophan is supposed to be taken on an empty stomach without any other amino acids. Since turkey is never the only thing we eat at Thanksgiving, this is probably not a main cause of the drowsiness we experience each year. A carbohydrate-rich meal works in conjunction with L-tryptophan to lead to serotonin synthesis. When you eat carbs, your pancreas increases production of insulin, which triggers the release of amino acids competing with L-tryptophan to leave the bloodstream and enter muscle cells. This allows for greater L-tryptophan to be in the bloodstream. Basically, by consuming carbohydrates, we increase the likelihood of feeling the sleepy effects of the amino acid from the turkey.
Fatty foods also contribute to the lethargy we feel after Thanksgiving dinner. Fats slow down the digestive system. They also take a lot of energy to digest, so more blood goes to the digestive system, leaving less blood flow to the rest of the body. This makes you less energetic and tired. “Basically, by consuming carboyhydrates, we increase the likelihood of feeling the sleepy effects of the amino acid from the turkey.� What is Thanksgiving dinner without wine and after dinner drinks (not to mention that Bloody Mary that helped you get through the cooking process)? Alcohol is a central nervous system depressant. If you drink alcohol with your dinner, it will be a catalyst the sluggish feeling post-feast. Finally, overeating is a definite nap-inducing factor of Thanksgiving. The more you eat, the more energy it takes to digest the meal. After eating a huge meal, blood will be taken away from other organs to aid in digestion, including the central nervous system. So this Thanksgiving, as you hesitate in slicing that second helping of turkey in fear of falling asleep later, remember that it is not simply the tryptophan or the overeating that contribute to your sleepiness. Simply give in to your urge and pile your plate high, because being hypnotized by Thanksgiving dinner is inevitable.
The Dish
We all know the feeling. You have finished your three plates of Thanksgiving comfort foods and sampled all five types of pie. You are settling down in the living room with family members and starting to unbutton your jeans to create a little more room for your third-trimester-sized food baby. While the conversation lulls, your eyes start to droop. Before you know it, you jolt awake two hours later wondering why you continually fall asleep after Thanksgiving dinner every single year.
November November 2011 2011 39
Food Thought In thefor Kitchen
Cranberries:
The Dish
Just another thing Wisconsin does better than everybody else
By Jenny Bauer November 2011
Food Thought In thefor Kitchen
The Native Americans used the cranberry extensively, and taught the pilgrims how to get the most out of the cranberry. The settlers soon embraced the berry for its uses in food and as a food preservative, as a fabric dye, and even for its medicinal benefits. Even whalers took the berries on their ships in giant barrels to prevent scurvy on long voyages. This tiny antioxidant powerhouse is grown in several states across the country, but Wisconsin produces more cranberries than any other state, so many, in fact, that the net harvest of one year could supply every person in the world with 26 of our state’s berries.
They were first grown here in 1860, when Edward Sackett arrived in Berlin and discovered cranberries on his land and began to cultivate them. They are now grown in about 19 counties in the northern and western parts of the state, making up over half of the entire country’s cranberry production. Even though the cranberry has a rich history in the United States and a traceable beginning in Wisconsin, it’s hard to say how the cranberry evolved into a Thanksgiving relish. Some historians pin point the Civil War as the first period of largescale use of cranberry sauce as a food source when General Grant ordered that the canned fruit be added to the supplies sent to the Union troops Since the Union troops were so large in number, some must have taken their fondness for the food home with them and this, coupled with how well the berry pairs with poultry, is probably how it became a Thanksgiving staple.
Cranberry sauce may not be your immediate go-to dish on a day where butter drips off chins and sumptuous pastries dominate the landscape, but maybe it should be. Cranberries have the highest antioxidant content of all fruits, and an antioxidant rich diet can lead to improved memory function and a strengthened immune system. They’re also cholesterol-free, fat-free, and low in sodium and can help to maintain a healthy heart. At your Turkey Day celebration this year, partake in a little bit of Wisconsin heritage by adding some of that jiggly, can-shaped joy to your plate and remember: good cranberry sauce comes from happy cranberries, and happy cranberries come from Wisconsin.
The Dish
Ah, Thanksgiving. A time of food-focused traditions that put other holidays to shame: a turkey, Grandma’s pumpkin pie, mashed potatoes and green bean casserole, and that weird jello-mold that no one wants to eat but seems to be on the table year after year. While we all know the story of the Native Americans teaching the first English settlers how to use the native plants of the land and how they then shared a meal together, corn seems to be the star of that story. There’s one indigenous North American plant that seems to get a bit neglected: the cranberry. This tart little fruit likely may have found its way onto the first Thanksgiving table and even now remains across the nation in can-shaped or whole-berry form right next to the turkey
November 2011
In the Kitchen
Cranberry Sauce Serves: 8 Cooking TIme: 10 minutes
Ingredients:
1 cup sugar 1 cup water 4 cups fresh or frozen cranberries
If using fresh cranberries, wash the berries and pick out any stems or imperfect berries. In a medium saucepan, bring water and sugar to a boil, stirring to dissolve sugar. Once boiling, add cranberries and wait for water to begin boiling again. Turn heat down to medium-low, (simmering) stirring occasionally for about 10 minutes or until cranberries burst. Remove from heat. Cool completely, then chill sauce in a foodstorage container in the refrigerator. The sauce will thicken as it cools.
Food for Thought
Note:
The Dish
If you are feeling adventurous, spice this recipe up by adding chopped pecans, orange zest, or some spices like cinnamon and nutmeg to the recipe to elevate your sauce from ordinary to special.
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Food Thought In thefor Kitchen
Family Dinner Night provides students with an opportunity to share a meal and support Slow Food values
By Emily Eggleston
The tables are set with mismatched silverware and repurposed Mason jars. The 100 people about to sit down will be similarly mixed and matched. Welcome to Slow Food UW’s $5 Family Dinner Night every Monday evening in the basement of The Crossing on University Avenue. “This is open to anyone. We encourage people to bring their friends,” Director of Membership for Slow Food UW Jenna Liberman stated. Freshman Jasmine Badreddine appreciates the quality of meals Family Dinner Night serves. “Back at home my mom and I try to do local and organic food so it kind of seems like a nice home-cooked meal,” she shared. Sitting at the table with her, sophomore Anthony Lee agreed that the food had a homey feel. “Plus it’s healthy and tastes good too,” he said.
The meals are sourced almost entirely locally and organically and always cost $5. Family Dinner Night began in 2008 with a group of 15-20 students and now serves around 100 people every week. Trivial pursuit cards are strewn between place settings to tease conversation from potentially shy newcomers. Graduate student Zach Simmons enjoys interacting with people outside of his normal group at the dinner. “I think people make an effort to talk to people they don’t know,” he said. “I like to see different circles in the university overlap.”
Alicia Engel, PR intern for Slow Food UW, came to every dinner last spring and then decided to get more involved. “I really like the ideology for Slow Food,” she explained. “The food usually has some kind of story behind it so it’s more meaningful than eating out at some other place, and I mean it’s five bucks for a rounded meal.”
The Dish
Slow Food is an international organization with Italian roots that values food that is good for the people who eat it, the people who produce it, and for the earth. Slow Food UW is one of 200 chapters under the umbrella of Slow Food USA.
November 2011
Food Thought In thefor Kitchen
Slow Food Madison teamed up with Slow Food UW to prepare one of the first Family Dinner Nights of the semester. Tony Sturm, a Slow Food UW founder and current Slow Food Madison Board Member, was there in the kitchen. As he stirred the beans and checked the roasting pork, he explained some of the event’s history. “When we started, we tried to have everybody participate in making the meal,” Sturm said. “We thought that an important part of sharing a meal is seeing how food is prepared and the cultural origins of the ingredients in our recipes.” Though 100 people would be too many cooks in the kitchen, Family Dinner Night encourages people to pitch in where possible. Graduate student Nathan Germain walked in to his first dinner in September and helped set the tables before sitting down to eat. “I guess it’s kind of like my family, except we don’t have 100 people to feed,” he noted.
Family Dinner Night’s popularity extends beyond the UW-Madison community. The success of Slow Food UW’s $5 dinners caught the attention of Slow Food USA and was the inspiration for this year’s national day of action, held on September 17. According to Slow Food USA, more than 30,000 food enthusiasts shared over 5,500 meals during the day of action, all adhering to Slow Food ideals, and all for $5 per plate. “This will be something they crow about,” said Matt Feifarek, Board Chair of Slow Food Madison. “And the idea came from Slow Food UW.” Sturm reminisced about the first $5 dinners. “I can’t believe how much this has grown from a tiny thought we had 4 years ago,” he said.
The Dish
A spectrum of reasons prompt students to patronize the Monday night dinners. “I like the idea of eating your food off of a plate with people and not out of a box or something that you throw away,” Simmons explained. Other motivations include reducing carbon footprints and simply enjoying the company. “This is my community in Madison. My best friends are here,” Liberman glowed. Family Dinner Night is everything from a dining hall replacement to an expression of food values. But first and foremost, it is a meal shared by people around a table. “We are students, we’re faculty, we’re community members, eating and enjoying food,” Liberman stated.
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Food Thought In thefor Kitchen
Over Stuffing Yourself on Thanksgiving By Kimberly Barclay
Stuffing first was first seen in English print in 1538, referred to as farce, meaning to stuff. The first uses were seen with the royalty (not everyone had access to game such as a chicken or a turkey) of the Romans, Greeks, and the Egyptians. Initially, farce was a spiced chopped meat mixture – the use of meat is now commonly
considered an Italian tradition, due to their use of sausage in stuffing. There is sadly no historical evidence of stuffing being served on the first Thanksgiving, but the vast cultural implications of the first pilgrims’ leads historians to believe that it was a staple used worldwide.
The Dish
Sitting in my apartment with copious amounts of Mac ‘n Cheese and other ready to eat meals makes the thought of Thanksgiving seem like a fairytale in a far away land. The mouth watering meal can only make me think of my favorite dish along with the old family recipe of stuffing: seasoned breadcrumbs, mushrooms and celery, drenched in the slow cooked broth of the turkey. The process of creating the stuffing is the one thing my mom allows me to help with – not wanting too many cooks in the kitchen. The cooking process is special to my family, but the history behind one of Thanksgivings most common dishes varies from culture to culture.
November 2011
In the Kitchen
During the Victorian age in England, people thought the word “stuffing” was vulgar and from then on it quickly became known as “dressing”. Nowadays, the terminology used by most Americans is “stuffing”. This is due to the wide use of Stove Top in many America households (invented in 1972 by home economist Ruth Siems). On Thanksgiving alone, approximately 60 million boxes of Stove Top stuffing are purchased. Recipes vary greatly, such as the east coast’s Oyster stuffing, a recipe very popular in the nineteenth century with the tradition continuing on today. The south is known for its use of pecan, rice, and cornbread stuffing. As stated before, Italians like sausage in their stuffing and Germans tend to use potatoes, dried fruit, and apples. Personally, I prefer my old family recipe, which is easy to make and delicious. I am willing to divulge this recipe so everyone can make a fantastic treat during the beautiful fall season or even show off your cooking skills when you go home to Mom!
Stuffing Recipe Turkey giblets: heart, neck, etc. 1 can of turkey broth 1 cup chopped onion 1 cup chopped celery 6 tablespoons butter 1 package mushroom, pre-chopped 1/2 cup minced garlic 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 4 cups dry breadcrumbs 3/4 teaspoon salt
Directions: 1. Preheat oven at 350F 2. Boil water and a can of turkey broth. Mince giblets. Add giblets and onion and celery into the boiling mixture. 3. In a large sauté pan, melt butter. Mix in chopped mushrooms. Sauté until mushrooms are cooked thoroughly and then add garlic, parsley, and salt (you can add any seasoning you’d like).
The TheDish Dish
4. Thoroughly combine mixture: chopped and boiled onion and celery, sautéed and seasoned mushroom and breadcrumbs.
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5. Put in an oven-proof dish (9x13 in pan). To maintain moisture broth can be added into the mixture. 6. Cook stuffing for 30-45 minutes at 350 degrees. Serve and enjoy!