Essential Journal - Issue 34

style

lifestyle

travel

Business

Column

Delving into Vilebrequin's designer swimwear

Showcasing the Royal Lancaster London

Postcards from Panama City & Santiago

So, you want to buy a football club?

Pondering the rise of women's football

page 23

page 31

page 40

page 44

page 50

I n

p u r s u i t

o f

a

q u a l i t y

l i f e s t y l e

"Why are we forced to be ‘men’ and be strong, and put value in things that are to our own detriment?"

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JAGUAR JAGUAR F-PACE F-PACE

NOT ALL SUVS ARE TAME

AVAILABLE AVAILABLE FROM FROM £36,520 £34,730 Inspired Inspired by

by F-TYPE, F-TYPE, the the sure-footed sure-footed handling handling of of the the Jaguar Jaguar F-PACE F-PACE is is rooted rooted in in 60 60 years years of of racing racing pedigree. pedigree. A A Lightweight Lightweight Aluminium Aluminium Architecture Architecture and and advanced advanced suspension suspension system system improves improves strength strength and and agility, agility, ensuring ensuring that that this this is is no no ordinary ordinary SUV. SUV. Available Available to to test test drive drive today. today.

Hatfi Hatfields elds Jaguar Jaguar Liverpool Liverpool Columbus Columbus Quay, Quay, Riverside Riverside Drive, Drive, Liverpool, Liverpool, L3 L3 4ED 4ED 0151 0151 728 728 2000 2000 hatfi hatfields.co.uk elds.co.uk

Official Official fuelfuel consumption consumption figures figures for the for the Jaguar Jaguar F-PACE F-PACE range range in mpg in mpg (l/100km): (l/100km): Urban Urban 23.2-49.1 23.2-49.1 (5.8-12.2); (5.8-12.2); Extra Extra Urban Urban 39.8-67.2 39.8-67.2 (4.2-7.1); (4.2-7.1); Combined Combined 31.7-59.2 31.7-59.2 (4.8-8.9) (4.8Image Image shown shown is anisSan model S model withwith optional optional extras extras withwith an On an The On The Road Road price price of £59,660. of £59,660.

-8.9). ). CO2CO emissions 2 emissions 209-126 209-126 g/km. g/km.

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Issue 34 | The Essential Journal

3

Official Official fuel fuel consumption consumption for the for New the New XC60 XC60 MY18, MY18, in MPG in MPG (l/100km): (l/100km): Urban Urban 30.430.4 (9.3)(9.3) - 48.7 - 48.7 (5.8), (5.8), ExtraExtra Urban Urban 45.645.6 (6.2)(6.2) – 60.1 – 60.1 (4.7), (4.7), Combined Combined 38.738.7 (7.3)(7.3) – 134.5 – 134.5 (2.1

4

The Essential Journal | Issue 34

INTRODUCING INTRODUCING THETHENEW NEWVOLVO VOLVOXC60 XC60 TheThe New New Volvo Volvo XC60 XC60 changes changes thethe wayway youyou getget to your to your destination. destination.

An An active active chassis chassis gives gives youyou unparalleled unparalleled control. control.

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Issue 34 | The Essential Journal

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DISCOVERY DISCOVERY

NEVER NEVER STOP STOP DISCOVERY DISCOVERING DISCOVERING NEVER STOP DISCOVERING

With 7 full-size seats* you can take the whole family and assorted With 7 full-size seats* you can take the whole family and assorted extras on your adventures. Throw in intelligent seat fold* and there’s extras on your adventures. Throw in intelligent seat fold* and there’s no chance of leaving any mementos behind, however big or awkwardly no chance of leaving any mementos behind, however big or awkwardly shaped. Here’s to sharing your home with the curious and quirky. shaped. Here’s to sharing your home with the curious and quirky.

Call or visit to book your test drive today.

Call or visit to book your test drive today.

With 7 full-size seats* you can take the whole family and assorted extras on your adventures. Throw in intelligent seat fold* and there’s no chanceLand of leaving mementos behind, however big or awkwardly Hatfields Roverany Liverpool Hatfields Land Rover Liverpool shaped. sharing your home with the curious and quirky.

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*Optional. Official Fuel Consumption Figures for the Discovery range in mpg (I/100km): Urban 19.9-36.2 (14.2-7.8); Extra Urban 30.4-48.7 (9.3-5.8); Combined 26.0-43.5 *Optional.

Official Fuel Consumption Figures for the Discovery range in mpg (I/100km): Urban 19.9-36.2 (14.2-7.8); Extra Urban 30.4-48.7 (9.3-5.8); Combined 26.0-43.5 (10.9-6.5). CO 2 Emissions 254-171 g/km. Official EU Test Figures. For comparison purposes only. Real world figures may differ. Drive responsibly on and off road.

(10.9-6.5). CO2 Emissions 254-171 g/km. Official EU Test Figures. For comparison purposes only. Real world figures may differ. Drive responsibly on and off road.

*Optional. Official Fuel Consumption Figures for the Discovery range in mpg (I/100km): Urban 19.9-36.2 (14.2-7.8); Extra Urban 30.4-48.7 (9.3-5.8); Combined 26.0-43.5 (10.9-6.5). CO2 Emissions 254-171 g/km. Official EU Test Figures. For comparison purposes only. Real world figures may differ. Drive responsibly on and off road.

Features

Contents 10 THE PRIMER A rundown of where we’ve been visiting, who we’ve been talking to, and what we’ve been reading this month 17

13 TALKING SHOP This month we speak to the chaps at Manchester’s very own Doherty Evans & Stott

23 ONE THING DONE WELL Our series of brands doing one item of clothing especially well continues with Vilebrequin designer swimwear

41 ARCHITECTURAL THOUGHTS ON: OUTDOOR SWIMMING This month’s architectural thoughts focus on the renaissance of the iconic British lido

Partner Content

24 HUGO BOSS ATHLEISURE Unparalleled functionality and classic style collide in The Open collection

by BOSS Partner Content

27 SUNSHINE & SADDLES Visitors flock to Chester Polo Club for the LDF International Polo Tournament 2018 28 CHESTER RACES STYLE BY THE MILE We look back at the Boodles May Festival and celebrate a crossroads in summer sport and style 29 BLOOD, SWEAT AND INDIGO Indigo & Goods London and Ricki Hall offer up a leaner, meaner approach to fitness and lifestyle

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HIGH SPIRITS Liz Lock of The Whisky Exchange talks us through another month in the world of fine spirits

COVER INTERVIEW: RICHARD BIEDUL We sat down with the former lawyer turned international menswear icon, Richard Biedul

46 THE TOM WILLIAMS CINEMA REVIEW This month, our film critic returns with his verdict on Ari Aster’s Hereditary

A HANDSOME HOTEL This month, we discuss how Royal Lancaster London offers a lesson in how to maximize space and emphasize a room with a view

36 ESSENTIAL DRINKING This month we bring you beer pairings, cold coffee alternatives, and a lesson in giant Mexican pineapples 39 RECIPE: PORT OF PRINCE STEW A vibrant, hearty summer stew packed with flavour, courtesy of Cuba: The Cookbook 40 POSTCARDS: PANAMA CITY & SANTIAGO Focusing on city secrets and neighbourhoods under transformation, we reached out to those in the know to lend some generous guidance to unsuspecting visitors Partner Content

42 LIVERPOOL'S LEAPS & BOUNDS Michael Rose & Baylis founder discusses Liverpool’s burgeoning property and development scene 44 SO, YOU WANT TO: BUY A FOOTBALL CLUB In the first part of a new regular series, we speak to the people that have made realities out of popular daydreams 45 BOOKS FOR THE MONTH AHEAD Our editor’s favourite sport books including game-changing footballers, the world’s greatest boxer and a Pulitzer-winning surf memoir 48 THE IAIN HOSKINS COLUMN In his latest column, Iain Hoskins ponders the power of seven 50 GENTS, WE NEED TO TALK ABOUT: WOMEN’S FOOTBALL A word on the surprising world of women’s football

Online web www.essentialjournal.co.uk @essentialjournal @essentialjournal @TEJOURNAL

CONTRIBUTORS Adonis Michael Andrew Doherty Brendan Soprano Dan Harvey Dan Sandy Eduardo Ortega Iain Hoskins Ian Harrold John Marshall Liz Lock Matthew Evans Richard Biedul Róisín Hanlon Steve Macguire Thomas Stott Tom Williams

PUBLISHERS Singleton Publishing EDITOR Davey Brett d.brett@singletonpublishing.co.uk CREATIVE DIRECTOR Thomas Sumner t.sumner@singletonpublishing.co.uk STAFF WRITER Will Halbert FILM EDITOR Tom Williams DESIGNER Jennifer Swaby FRONT COVER Richard Beidul photographed by Luca Perrin, lcprn.co.uk location - Royal Lancaster London

Issue 34 | The Essential Journal

PARTNERSHIP MANAGER Lara Poynor l.poynor@singletonpublishing.co.uk For all advertising enquiries please contact: sales@essentialjournal.co.uk For all other enquiries including guest editorial and feature opportunities please contact: info@essentialjournal.co.uk

TERMS & CONDITIONS Under no circumstances must any part of this publication be reproduced without prior permission to the publisher. Whilst every effort is taken, the publisher shall not be held responsible for any errors.

Furthermore, the publisher shall not be held responsible for any advertising material/content. Please also note that the views and opinions written within this publication do not necessarily represent the views and opinions of the publisher. All prices and details stated within this publication are correct at the time of print, however these are subject to change and the publisher shall not be held responsible for these. Third party contributions own exclusive copyright to their own material that they have submitted as part of the publication. All rights reserved.

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The Essential Journal | Issue 34

Issue 34 | The Essential Journal

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The Primer

Image credit: Claire Harrison (Mackie Mayor)

“Just play.

Have fun.

Enjoy the game.”

– Michael Jordan A note from

Sport: the great

the editor

divider. You’re

Where we’ve been eating

either mad fer

MACKIE MAYOR, MANCHESTER

it or it’s a needlessly rowdy,

Go for a bite, stay for two hours. That’s what happened the last time we went to Mackie Mayor during work hours (not counting the weekend trips too). Manchester’s latest food emporium, from the people behind Altrincham Market Hall, is a foodie paradise on the edge of the Northern Quarter. FIN’s selection of delicious fish options always tempts us back (smoked haddock salad and the fish tacos are a must) but BAOHOUSE is one of the food hall’s pop-ups that has quickly risen in our estimations. Their aubergine and mushroom baos are divine. DB

pub-experience-ruining, conversation-stunting menace. For this issue, we’ve tried not to be those guys.

There’s touches of sport here and there, but we haven’t

Mackie Mayor, Eagle Street, Manchester M4; mackiemayor.co.uk

gone full-kit w****r about it. Cover star Richard Biedul briefly reveals a childhood love of swimming and a loose

Where we’ve been drinking

allegiance to QPR, but he’s

GREEN ROOM AT THE CURTAIN, LONDON

much more interested in

You know that feeling when you visit a place and immediately realise it’s perfect for a picky friend? That’s how we felt at the Green Room bar launch at The Curtain in Shoreditch. Cool but not oppressively so, fancy but not uncomfortably so and a cocktail menu that’s aesthetically pleasing enough for Instagram, but not style over substance. Trust us, everything on the menu goes down smooth, but we did double up on the Strawberry Thief and Bread & Butter Sazerac. Whilst you’re there it’s worth having a mooch around The Curtain too, which packs 120 luxurious rooms, restaurant, members club and more into a labyrinth of discovery. The picky friend shall remain nameless. DB

talking about masculinity, responsible clothing and Chandler Bing, which to be honest, we’re into. Elsewhere, we’ve spoken to football club owners, paired beer with the

The Image AGAINST THE BACKDROP OF THE BIG TWO HIBERNIAN V HEARTS, EASTER ROAD, EDINBURGH, 1995 BY STUART ROY CLARKE

The Curtain, 45 Curtain Road, London, EC2A 4PT; thecurtain.com

summer’s sporting events, and ran around the world with Mikkeller running club.

Run that mile, hit that ball,

What has been inspiring our travels

do that sport and follow

GREEN ESCAPES BY TOBY MUSGRAVE

our Instagram. DB

Phaidon have a knack for handy alternative city guides. Last year’s Destination Architecture is a title that springs to mind and now Green Escapes follows in its footsteps with a guide to the best secret gardens, pocket parks and green spaces tucked away in cities around the world. Featuring garden types ranging from courtyards and vegetable gardens to rooftops and wildlife spots, Green Escapes is the go to book for swerving the tourist traps, finding calm and discovering a different side to the world’s great metropolises. DB Green Escapes (Phaidon) is out now

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Everyone points to the changing face of football in Stuart Roy Clarke’s photography (and rightly so), but for us it’s the minor details here and there that make his images so special. It also helps that he’s travelled far and wide during his near thirty-year photographic study of the beautiful game. His image Against The Backdrop Of The Big Two (featured, right) from a 1995 Edinburgh derby is a personal favourite of the fifty five currently on show at The National Football Museum in Manchester.DB The Game: football through the lens of Stuart Roy Clarke runs from 23 March; The National Museum, Manchester

The Essential Journal | Issue 34

The Primer

Against The Backdrop Of The Big Two Hibernian v Hearts, Easter Road, Edinburgh, 1995 by Stuart Roy Clarke

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55 Jermyn Street, London, SW1Y 6LX

|

24 Brook Street, London, W1K 5DG

www.johnsmedley.com

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The Essential Journal | Issue 34

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Talking Shop:

Doherty Evans & Stott

In the fourth part of our regular series, in which we chat to the folks in charge of our favourite menswear stores, we speak to the chaps at Manchester’s Doherty Evans & Stott

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f the city of Manchester is a great ocean of casual, then Doherty Evans & Stott stands upon its shores as a beacon of sartorialism. Tucked away on Bridge Street, a few steps from the hustle and bustle of Deansgate, the independent tailoring and luxury menswear store deals in all things timeless. Specialising in an Italian-inspired aesthetic, but using British clothes, shoes and accessories, DE&S stands out in the North West as a uniquely personal and curated shopping experience.

Helmed by Andrew Doherty, Matthew Evans and Thomas Stott, the quaint corner store is an ode to their own vision of impeccable style Issue 34 | The Essential Journal

and love of high-quality menswear.

Offering a full made to measure and bespoke tailoring service, the store also curates ready to wear seasonal collections, stocking the likes of Boglioli, Fedeli, Incotex, Private White and Crockett & Jones. This month we popped in for a sartorial chinwag, discussing unique customers, the post-Gallagher male and the places to go when you look as good as they do. EJ essential journal: Tell us a little bit about yourselves and the shop.

Andrew Doherty:The store’s been open now for six years. We all used to work for Gieves & Hawkes in Manchester, the top concession

in the country. When they shut all of their concessions we started up a store ourselves. This shop came up and we realized we had to jump quickly. It’s always been an amazing menswear store, Richard Creme had it, Vivienne Westwood had it and then ourselves.

What sort of brands do you stock?

What can customers coming into the store expect?

AD: We started off with tailoring as the focus. The hand-made is made through Caruso and they’re made in Parma, Italy. It’s beautiful and everything’s based around that.

Thomas Stott:That’s how we look at this, it’s all the same level. Caruso are the level for the tailoring and hand-made side. The shoes, Crockett & Jones fit with that. Then it filters down. Boglioli, Incatex and Slowear all fit into the modern, dressed down casual vibe. Incatex is chinos, you dress it up with a Boglioli blazer or add an Eton shirt for a casual look at

the weekend. We try to check most areas really. Guys need a one-stop shop.

Do you have a particular type of customer? Do they conform to the Manchester stereotype?

Matthew Evans:We do get the more clued up, post-Gallagher football guys. But we do get creatives as well - people that are drawn to independent thinking. They have their own business, they appreciate ours and they know that we care about everything we buy for the shop.

There’s not that many independents in Manchester, especially menswear.

That’s key to it as well.

TS:[Men] that have done particularly well in their careers, that understand quality. Not too bothered about brands and labels as such. They want to buy something timeless. Stuff like Crockett that you can bring out for the next ten years, come back, get it serviced and go again. The brands have a very international look too.

Manchester

Why do you think there are less independents in Manchester?

AD:Rent and rates, simple as that for Manchester. The city council is not doing any favours for independents.

ME:To be really central, with the best opportunities and the best location, it’s just too expensive. You have to be in the fringes, we have people coming here that’ve only just found us after six years and we’re just off Deansgate. It’s crazy.

Do you have any particularly interesting customers?

AD: Mr Fullerton. Basically an old boy in his 80s and he used to walk around Manchester in a bowler hat, a three-piece suit and a dickie bow, with an umbrella. He wore wing collar shirts, all made by us and he was basically Mr Manchester. Everyone knew him and he looked amazing.

Unfortunately, he passed away last year. He wanted a black velvet evening jacket and we said, “Have you got an event to wear it for?”

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Style "He wanted a black velvet evening jacket and we said, “Have you got an event to wear it for?” His reply was, “You don’t need an event to wear one of these!” He had this brilliant old-school mentality of dressing."

His reply was, “You don’t need an event to wear one of these!” He had this brilliant old-school mentality of dressing. He lived in an old folk’s home too. He’d wear a three-piece down to breakfast and a thousand pound silk dressing gown just to knock about the home.

TS:I think a few of his shirts went missing. They’d get dry-cleaned and not find their way back to his room, or he said guys would come through his room and just take a shirt and go.

So he’d come back to us to get them remade. He used to have a certain walk too. A really interesting history as well. Art dealer originally from New Zealand, he was an economics tutor at Manchester University and he also wrote a cookbook in French and he got it published in his later years. He hand-wrote two out to give to us.

Tell us about the British brands you stock.

AD: Around forty per cent of our stock is sourced from the UK. We try and get as much in the UK as possible. Those handkerchiefs are made in Macclesfield. There’s also Fox umbrellas, Pantherella socks, Crockett & Jones shoes and Private White is down the road. We’ve got Johnson’s of Elgin cashmere from Scotland.

Cufflinks made in the UK. Say a bloke walks in and he’s new to this smarter form of dress, how do you guide him? What are the essentials?

TS:It depends what he wants it for, we always ask that, whether it’s an event or something like that. A blazer and chinos is still a classic style no 14

image credit: Davey BRETT

What’s the age range of your customers?

AD:We have customers from nineteen years up to Mr Fullerton, who was probably the oldest. It’s a real mix. We do shirts and chinos, that basically bring any age group in.

We have this Private White bomber jacket here, guys that’re nineteen buy it and then we have really good customers that’re sixty or seventy buying it. Whoever puts it on looks great in it. Menswear doesn’t necessarily evolve crazily. It can do if you follow the fast fashion side, but stuff like this – the style remains constant.

matter what. A guy needs a blue suit, a blue jacket and chinos, maybe a grey suit. Key things. If you buy a navy jumper, twin it with cream chinos, you can then put a navy blazer on top. Then have a white shirt, the white shirt will go with the blue suit, then you can link it all together. Start with that capsule, then you can go into the crazy checks, after you’ve got the basics.

AD:That’s an iconic look. It’ll never date, you can bring it out of the wardrobe five years down the line and it’ll still look amazing.

Individually, do you have any key style moments or influences? Are there watershed moments?

ME:The Ivy League thing is always there, hanging over menswear.

The chino look from the 1950s, from the colleges. You have to give a nod to that.

AD:Prince Charles. He’s iconic isn’t he. Always looks amazing for tailoring purposes. You see him in safari

things and he looks amazing.

TS:How timeless is it though? He’s not pushing boundaries or anything, he’s just wearing classic stuff.

There’s pictures of him and he’s got a little patch on his suit where it has been repaired. His suit probably cost about six thousand pounds a piece, but instead of getting another one, he got a patch put on which is interesting.

These clothes carry a certain feel to them and obviously you should be able to where them everywhere, but do you sometimes feel like the places (and other people that frequent them) don’t match up effort-wise?

[Group breath and release, saying in unison] All the time!

AD:That’s what we’re saying about Manchester being a casual city. Still to this day and as much as we’ve tried to put it out there - and there’s been renaissances, people dressing up a little - it’s still a very casual city when you go out. I can’t understand

"Still to this day and as much as we’ve tried to put it out there...it’s still a very casual city when you go out. I can’t understand why people spend £500 on a t-shirt made in China." why people spend £500 on a t-shirt made in China. The weather plays a part too. The weather here is glum, so people don’t dress up as much.

It’s about dressing in layers, getting from place to place.

Are there any particular vignettes you can paint for the reader of

where you feel most at ease peacocking in these clothes?

AD:Caffe Gilly in Florence. It’s where all the menswear crew go. Very ‘peacocky’. For Manchester, Hawksmoor or 20 Stories. There’s loads of places.

TS:A lot of the people that come into here want recommendations.

Next door, Randall & Aubin’s has a London feel to it. Milan has so many places, so many little trattorias, you just have to walk down the street.

You find that there’s a general standard. The average guy in a suit over there - the shoulder’s soft, there’s a nice lapel and the fit is fantastic. The trousers are shorter and that’s just on an average guy in his 50s. It’s normal to dress better over there. It’s all about the difference in attitude. In the UK it’s all about not standing out.

About being understated, which is fine. In Italy it’s about being sharp.

Doherty Evans & Stott; 64 Bridge Street, Manchester, M3 3BN dohertyevansstott.co.uk The Essential Journal | Issue 34

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IT’S NOT THE

TAKING PART THAT COUNTS

D R I N KS F OR A S UM M E R OF S P EC TAT IN G

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The Essential Journal | Issue 34

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Richard Biedul on masculinity, sustainability and great British tailoring words by Davey BRETT photography by Luca PERRIN

Issue 34 | The Essential Journal

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Style

A champion of British clothing, one of the world’s best dressed men and never one to shirk a meaningful conversation, it’s no wonder Richard Biedul is a model in demand. We sat down with the former lawyer turned international menswear icon to chat masculinity, giving back to the industry and why you need to be watching Friends for fashion inspiration this season

Below Hackett London Striped wool double breasted suit | £695 Hackett London linen shirt | £105 Opposite & Previous Page Hackett London striped stretch cotton-blend blazer | £425 Hackett London cotton Oxford shirt | £85 Henley Royal Regatta by Hackett London logo stripe tie | £65 Front Cover Henley Royal Regatta by Hackett London stripe cotton jacket | £450 Henley Royal Regatta by Hackett London stripe cotton trousers | £175 Patek Philippe Calatrava (5119j) courtesy of David M. Robinson| £POA

“E

yebrow gel?

What’re you wearing that for you f**cking quilt?”

Unfortunately, the tape isn’t running when Richard Biedul does an impression of his (and everyone else’s) dad when confronted with the thought of male grooming, but it sets the tone early for Richie’s ability to discuss important topics with a spot of charismatic humour. In this instance it’s the inevitable and needlessly macho response to a tidier brow.

If you don’t recognize Richard Biedul by name you will recognize him by face. A mainstay on the international menswear scene, with a penchant for British brands, Biedul has modeled for a host of fashion world heavyweights including Armani, Richard James, Canali and Paul Smith. Formerly a lawyer in the city of London, the big break came five years into his law career when he was scouted at after work drinks.

Within a week he was closing Oliver Spencer’s show at London Fashion week and six months later he was in New York, living the dream.

Eyebrow gel aside, talk quickly turns to masculinity when we begin chatting. Although this is the cover shoot for the summer of sport issue and despite Richie currently laying in a hotel bathtub full of extremely

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pungent tennis balls (they’re not Babolat, put it that way), Richard Biedul doesn’t care for sport. Partly because he’s too busy, but also because of the negative associations that come with it.

“I used to swim, that was my thing.

But as I’ve grown up, I’ve fallen out of love with things like football because of the negative connotations that come with it. It’s so ostentatiously macho to the point where it’s almost toxic. Masculinity has become such a negative thing, why are we forced to be ‘men’ and be strong, and put value in things that’re to our own detriment? Not speaking out about things, women in the kitchen, the pub with the lads. That breeds mental illness. You don’t want that in your life.”

It’s an impassioned and surpris-

ingly serious topic to immediately dive into, especially coming from a man that epitomizes such a classic and handsome vision of masculinity.

But that’s what becomes apparent about Richie, he’s not just a bloke that’s been lucky enough to hit every branch of the handsome tree, he’s also a man that doesn’t shy away from important conversation. “Plus, I supported QPR. So there wasn’t that much football going on there anyway.” The charisma strikes again.

Seven years on from his fashion world debut, Biedul is in a reflective state of mind. When quizzed on the trips and adventures associated with his earlier years, he’s mature in his response.

“I don’t go away much anymore. It has been fazed out of my life because I’ve grown up. I’m not just a model The Essential Journal | Issue 34

Style

anymore, enjoying the ride. I’m here to contribute to the industry. With my production agency I want to curate things that people are going to love. Create clothes that people are going to wear and if you’re fucking around like an 18-year-old model, not that I’m saying all 18-year-old models fuck around, you haven’t got focus or energy to achieve anything.”

One of Biedul’s well-documented interests is British manufacturing and design. Savile Row aside, his appreciation of the best of British has taken him all over the UK, from Yorkshire woolen mills to Welsh denim producers, meeting craftspeople, championing brands and learning about the processes, materials and stories behind the nation’s clothing traditions. Style is always a motivation, but so is an awareness of

his own ability to be doing more.

“People are fundamentally more interested in learning about responsible, sustainable British products now and it goes back to this idea of conscientious shopping. Should you be buying from high street giants that aren’t playing their part? Brands that don’t source their clothes responsibly or ethically and don’t pay their staff properly?”

The answer, as Richie points out, is no. We should be sourcing a little closer to home, paying a little bit more for something that lasts longer and appreciating the companies that are making an effort to do things properly. He’s not pie in the sky about it though. He’s aware of the main caveat people face.

“Nobody’s got that disposable income. We were saying the other day,

“All those years ago when I had that big long beard and long hair, there was nobody that looked like me. People took a risk on me as a person. I wasn’t a model, I was a lawyer, some scruffy bloke that looked good in a suit."

some of us are generally obsessed with the way we shop, but if you can’t shop ethically or sustainably, you should look for the next best alternative. If you can’t afford the quality, at least look out for the responsible.

If you can’t afford something that’s hand-crafted in Northampton, try and find someone on the high street that you know thinks about production and treats their staff to a high standard. Look for a manufacturer that makes their shoes in Portugal.

The employees are under the EU working directive so they’re going to be paid a reasonable wage.”

Giving back is a recurring theme in Richard Biedul’s conversation.

There’s a yearning to do more and a thankfulness for where he is today.

The words “I’m so lucky man” ring around the hotel suite more than countinued...

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Style

once as he runs around getting changed. Ask him about the people that have championed him and he’ll reel them off with unbridled enthusiasm, Oliver Spencer topping the list.

“I still walk for Oliver Spencer. He’s my friend now. I love him as a person, I love his brand, I love working with him. He is the reason I am where I am and I look forward to walking for him in June. I think it will be season 14.”

“The amount of people that have supported me over the years. All those years ago when I had that big long beard and long hair, there was nobody that looked like me. People took a risk on me as a person. I wasn’t a model, I was a lawyer, some scruffy bloke that looked good in a suit.Then you’re working for Armani, Canali, Etro and Paul Smith. Slowly breaking down boundaries and people’s perceptions of what beauty is. Traditionally, beauty was Alexander Lundqvist, Tyson Beckford and Marc Vanderloo.

Then all of a sudden you didn’t have to be big, you just had to look good in clothes. You didn’t have to be carved

by Michelangelo, you just needed to be relatable. Then you had to have a voice and people valued having a voice over everything else and I loved that.”

Richard Biedul isn’t afraid of being outspoken. As we touch upon topics ranging from the fashion industry as a whole, to improving the accessibility of heritage brands, he’s not afraid to politely make a 20

Henley Royal Regatta by Hackett London striped linen and wool-blend double-breasted blazer | £575 / Hackett London stripe cotton Rugby shirt | £125

statement. The elitist atmosphere of Savile Row for instance is something Richie, a champion of British tailoring, would like to see change.

“I’m a real fan of how Richard James and Hardy Amies do their business, they’ve reduced the price point, they’re making contemporary clothing for young men. Hardy Amies has got a £370 off the peg offer now.

It’s because they don’t want people going to the high street. They want people coming into Hardy Amies and having a Savile Row experience.

Not everyone can afford to start on Savile Row wearing made to measure

or bespoke. So you start with your L plates on at Hardy Amies and you get a nice experience, then you go to somewhere else and as you go on, you end up buying your six grand bespoke.”

He’s not a fan of jeans either.

“The reason I don’t wear denim is because I’m not a kid and I’m not a man having a mid-life crisis. I like to wear smart, structured clothing that makes me feel good about myself and almost flatters my body shape and structured tailoring does that for a man of my size, does that for a man of any size really.”

Biedul’s outspoken views on denim soon caught the eye of King & Tuckfield, a British contemporary menswear and womenswear brand inspired by founder Stacey Wood’s memories of her grandparents. The brand’s knack for applying tailoring principles and constructions to denim garments provided Biedul with a whole new appreciation of the material and he’s now heavily involved with the brand on a creative level.

A role he’s clearly reveling in. Their AW18 capsule launches for pre-orders online on 8 June, whilst their SS19 gets LFW showroom launch.

As we wrap up the shoot, Richard Biedul’s ‘giving back’ senses are still tingling. Looking out of the window over Hyde Park, he spots Battersea Power Station and suggests Battersea Dogs Home as a welcome destination for the six hundred tennis balls piled up in the bathtub. He takes one home for his Dachshund too, before revealing a surprising inspiration on his way out.

“Recently I’ve been re-watching Friends and I’ve been really inspired

by Chandler Bing in season four and five.

Over-sized, boxy suits, high-waisted pleated trousers and sportswear, like caps. Then he’s got a load of like oversized office shirts that he wears undone with a vest under.

It’s quite embarrassing because the first time you watch it, you think Chandler’s a nerd, but watching it again you realise that actually he’s a sartorial don.”

You heard it here first. Richard Biedul, the gift that keeps on giving. EJ

A special thank you to The Royal Lancaster Hotel in Lancaster Gate and their fantastic concierge; thanks to Hackett too for providing the garments and David M Robinson and Patek Phillipe for providing the watch worn in the shoot. You can donate to Battersea Dogs and Cats home at battersea. org.uk; all ten series of Friends are currently available to watch on Netflix The Essential Journal | Issue 34

What’s On July – October Tuesday 10 July 7.30pm

Thursday 11 October 7.30pm

Acoustic Tour 2018

Richard Thompson

Levellers

Thursday 18 October 8.30pm Music Room

Wednesday 11 July 8pm Music Room

Ye Vagabonds

Heidi Talbot & John McCusker Saturday 21 July 7.45pm An Intimate Evening of Songs and Stories with

Graham Nash

Box Office 0151 709 3789 liverpoolphil.com

Friday 27 July 8pm Music Room Summer Show

Ian Prowse Principal Funders

Principal Partners Thanks to the City of Liverpool for its financial support

Issue 34 | The Essential Journal

LiverpoolPhilharmonic liverpoolphil liverpool_philharmonic Media Partner

Image Ian Prowse

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Whether you are in need of a bespoke tailor for your special day or a business suit, we have exactly what you’re looking for.

At Harland Collier, the only limit is your imagination.

Metquarter, Liverpool For appointments call 07555 775 385 or email info@harlandcollier.com

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The Essential Journal | Issue 34

no.

11 Vilebrequin

Style

One Thing Done Well

Our series of brands doing one item especially well continues this month with Vilebrequin designer swimwear words by Will HALBERT

image credit: courtesy of Vilebrequin

F

or all of our good intentions, we Brits often let ourselves down when it comes to proper beach etiquette. It’s not our fault, we just get less practice than our more sun-kissed, beach-blessed European neighbours.

As a result, our swimwear often gets overlooked, bought at the last minute with no thought to fit, style and construction. The results are uniformly disastrous: an exercise in ill-fitting, fishout-of-water, Brit-abroad clumsiness that does you less favours than socks under sandals and an over-enthusiastic, lobster red tan. Bottom line? It’s easy to forget that your swimwear is as much of an investment as your suit.

Enter Vilebrequin luxury designer swimwear.

Founded in 1971 in St.Tropez by lovestruck motor-racing journalist Fred Prysquel, Vilebrequin carries all the free-spirited elegance and flamboyant charm of 1970’s Côte d'Azur on its perfectlyfitting, quick-drying and intricately embroidered shorts. For over 40 years, the brand has mastered the art of making swimwear that is more than just identifiable, it’s iconic. Combining the Californian surfer style with bold Tropézien elegance, Vilebrequin prove that the French are experts in keeping things sleek when the sun’s overhead and the sand’s underfoot.

Each and every pair of shorts undergoes 32 scrupulous manufacturing steps to ensure uncompromising quality. The results border on the sartorial. Exclusive cotton polyamide not only provides a luxuriously soft hand feel, but also makes for a quick drying pair of board shorts that won’t lose their vibrancy in the sun. Seamless inner linings - cut from 100% cotton - offer second-skin levels of comfort and can be replaced in store should the need arise over the years to come. Back pockets are even hand-placed to ensure the print of the fabric is always perfectly aligned.

But the best part of Vilebrequin’s construction?

The two metal eyelets at the rear of the shorts that allow air to escape as you enter the water, meaning you won’t look like you have hit the pool under emergency parachute procedures. Add this to the fact that the shorts are designed to rest naturally, without sticking to your legs or riding up your thighs, and you’re looking at a solid example of French craftsmanship.

Vilebrequin’s CEO and lead designer, the St. Barthes-based Roland Herlory, cut his teeth on the likes of Dior and Hermès before choosing to honour Fred Prysquel’s legacy of finely-tailored swimwear and bold, statement prints. It’s an enviable position to be in: The Vilebrequin studio not only have the sun-kissed class and mediterranean majesty of the French Riviera as a constant source of inspiration, they have over 4 decades of finely-tuned construction know-how to bring that inspiration to life.

In short, Vilebrequin not only offers a masterclass in careful construction and timeless style, they offer a serious upper hand in beach-ready style and ease. If you worked out all winter, a pair of Vilebrequin’s will frame those gains nicely. And even if you didn’t, it can’t hurt to have a peacocking, cotton polyamide little trick up your sleeve when the shirt comes off. Just don’t pair them with socks and sandals and you’ll get on just fine. EJ Issue 34 | The Essential Journal

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Partner Content

Pro Moves Unparalleled functionality and classic style collide in The Open Collection by BOSS words by Will HALBERT

THE PERFECT MATCH

When you think about it, the heritage and prestige of BOSS and The Open go hand in hand. Both are at the forefront of their respective games, both pride themselves on pushing the boundaries, and both have always set the benchmark in gentlemanly pursuits of excellence.

With that in mind, it should really come as no surprise that BOSS has returned as the Official Outfitter of The Open for the second year running.

This year, BOSS honour the 147th Open by showcasing a performance-ready but style-forward capsule collection that is set to dazzle sportsmen and style aficionados in equal measure.

By all accounts, the partnership is a telling sign of how far the sport has come: Gone are the days of ill-fitting, past-the-elbow polos and oversized, pleated trousers. Under the artful eye of BOSS, we rediscover the sleeker side of golf, with a range of measured fits that prove to be functional and fashionable all at once, with no hint of preppy argyle in sight.

CAPSULE CLASS

As we’ve come to expect, The Open Collection by BOSS is a masterclass in inspired design, striking a perfect balance between sophisticated style and golf course-friendly performance. Blending functional engineering with a distinct, BOSS aesthetic, the capsule collection boasts some serious versatility. Not only is each garment performance-engineered to keep you cool on the golf course, their effortless sophistication makes them perfect for any off-course activities, too.

With a beautiful range of premium athleisure options, The Open collection by BOSS is so comprehensive that you can build entire outfits from the ground up with ease, each one boasting a superior sense of elegance and style fit for any occasion.

Slim-fit, technical weave Open polos (in Daphne Blue and Black Heather) and a lightweight, quarter zip pullover offer up solid leisurewear pairing options that are perfect both on and off the course. Throwing a cotton-twill golf cap (complete with Claret Jug-embroidering) into the mix will add a sporting-yet-sophisticated edge to the look.

However you wear it, and whatever you wear it for, The Open collection by BOSS proves time and time again that BOSS are true activewear pioneers.

'The Open Collection

by BOSS is a masterclass in inspired design, striking a perfect balance between sophisticated style and

PERFORMANCE MEETS PASSION Top Sweater by BOSS Menswear is part of a capsule collection created exclusively for The Open 2018 at Carnoustie | £139 Below Jacket by BOSS Menswear is part of a capsule collection created exclusively for The Open 2018 at Carnoustie | £139 Opposite Polo shirt by BOSS designed for The Open capsule collection by BOSS Menswear | £99 Cap by BOSS constructed in cotton twill for breathable comfort. This item is part of a capsule collection created exclusively for The Open 2018 at Carnoustie | £99 BOSS Stores Liverpool One | Liverpool Metquarter Manchester Trafford | Manchester Cathedral Street

golf course-friendly

Not only is the new collection a testament to BOSS’ knack for athleisure fashion, it’s a celebration of the brand’s longstanding presence in the world of professional golf.

Having launched its golf sponsorship programme back in 1985, BOSS now provides peerless style and prize-winning functionality to eleven of the world’s top international golf stars. From Swedish champion, Henrik Stenson to former no.1 ranked player, Martin Kaymer, BOSS has a legacy of golfing excellence under its belt.

The proof is in the pudding: The Open collection by BOSS is rife with standout examples of laid-back summer style with refined, sporting sensibilities. The knit collar, welted sleeve Open Polo with stretch tech for unrestricted movement, is one such example. The addition of an embroidered Claret Jug marks the momentous sporting occasion and offers a classically cool style fit for a champion.

You don’t have to be a golfing champion to dress like a winner. But it can’t hurt.

performance'

LEADING THE WAY

All in all, The Open collection by BOSS not only celebrates BOSS’ long-standing dedication to sporting excellence, but also flaunts its dominance in the exciting new world of Athleisurewear.

Blending premium fashion and sports performance, Athleisurewear by BOSS offers a collection of modern sportswear and active performance-wear options with a superior standard of quality, functionality and style.

Built on the principles of functional activewear and cutting-edge technical fabrics, BOSS once again prove themselves to be leading experts in blurring the line between gym-ready style and high-street chic.

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The Essential Journal | Issue 34

Partner Content

Issue 34 | The Essential Journal

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The Essential Journal | Issue 34

Partner Content

Sunshine & Saddles T Team LaurentPerrier secure silverware on the Roodee at the LDF International Tournament 2018

he great British summer made an appearance on the Roodee last weekend for the LDF International Polo Tournament 2018 at Chester Polo Club.

The perfect weather for polo, visitors flocked to Chester Polo Club to watch four teams battle it out to victory and a substantial £10,000 prize fund.

The 2018 season opener and the first game for Chester Polo Club on Semi Finals Day, Friday 8 June, saw team Laurent-Perrier triumph over V Docs, with an impressive final score of 11-1. The second match of the day saw Arbuthnot Latham secure their place in the final against LDF with a result of 7-3.

Between chukkas, guests were welcomed onto the pitch to take part in the polo tradition of stomping the divots. As a Chester Polo tradition, a silver cork was hidden on the pitch, the finder winning a bottle of Laurent-Perrier.

Finals Day on Saturday 9 June saw an enthusiastic crowd gather for the final game of the tournament. LDF took third place against V Docs with a final score of 9-3. Laurent-Perrier then battled against Arbuthnot Latham in a lively game that showcased outstanding talent and sportsmanship. The nail biting final resulted in a 8-5 finish in favour of Laurent-Perrier.

Match day commentator, Stephen Wundke commented: “In a see-sawing game the crowd were treated to tense, aggressive and highly skilled Polo and they loved it. It’s an old cliché and whilst Laurent-Perrier picked up the spoils of the LDF Trophy and £10,000, the real winner was the game of Polo. Well done to Chester Racecourse for staging a superb showpiece for a crowd that is learning and appreciating the game more year after year.”

In a champagne soaked reception, MVP (sponsored

by Docutech Office Solutions) was awarded to Michael Henderson from team Laurent-Perrier after scoring an impressive 13 goals in 2 games. Best Playing Pony (sponsored

by LDF) was awarded to Tormenta, ridden by Matias Amaya of Team Arbuthnot Latham in the first chukka of the final game.

Following their new automotive partnership, Chester Polo welcomed luxury car dealership H.R. Owen to the Roodee. Representatives from the well-established dealership showcased the latest models, pitch-side throughout the tournament. Spectators where welcomed to take a front row seat to the action in the Italian luxury of a Maserati Levante.

Style was also a key focus throughout the tournament, as guests were invited to browse the latest collections from luxury menswear brand, Hackett, as new partner to Chester Polo Club.

The event raised valuable funds for the nominated charity The Marina Dalglish Appeal and recently knighted Sir Kenny Dalglish was in attendance to support this worthwhile cause and enjoy a day at the polo. CR

Chester Polo Club returns to Chester Racecourse for The Boodles Roodee Challenge Cup on 7 & 8 September.

Tickets and Hospitality are available to purchase online at www.chester-races.com/chester-polo and can also be purchased on match day. Spectators can gain free entry on Friday for the Semi-Finals and admission is just £8 for adults on each Saturday for the Finals. Children are invited to attend either day free of charge. For visitors looking for an extra special Polo experience, VIP Hospitality can be reserved by calling 01244 304 63

Issue 34 | The Essential Journal

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Style

Style by the Mile We look back at the Boodles May Festival and celebrate a crossroads in summer sport and style words by Will HALBERT

A

firm favourite amongst amateurs and affictionados alike, the Boodles May Festival has a reputation for furlong after furlong of first-rate racing and peerless style. It’s an age-old, tried-and-tested combination, but it’s always a joy to see summer sport and summer style go hand in hand so effortlessly.

Last month, we had the honour of judging the Best Dressed men’s category together with Official Race Partners, McArthurGlen Designer Outlet Cheshire Oaks.

This came hot on the hooves of McArthurGlen Designer Outlet Cheshire Oaks’ Official Style Guide. Highlighting dress-code guidelines across all racecourse areas and enclosures, the guide also showcased some truly inspired and stylish ensembles from the extensive range of brands available at Cheshire Oaks. From Paul Smith to Ted Baker, the Official Style guide was a rich repertoire of summerready looks fit for the Roodee and beyond.

As was to be expected, then, the day didn’t just offer up a masterclass in equestrian excellence, but presented a whole host of bold and exacting style statements that exceeded expectations. From classic, boxy, double-breasted silhouettes to more contemporary, slimmer-fitting cuts, the gent’s at the Boodles May Festival revelled in a fresh blend of tradition and modernism. Floral prints and lighter textures made for some relaxed summer vibes, whilst an abundance of well-constructed and perfectly-placed pocket squares ensured that the old-school sartorial standards were still very much well-maintained and lovingly-represented.

And in a true celebration of style and grace, the ladies in attendance turned heads and dropped jaws in equal measure with a flurry of floral fascinators and a show-stopping mix of dresses, jumpsuits and elegant tailoring. No detail was overlooked as ladies in attendance wowed with carefully-considered colour combinations and impeccable accessorising.

Here at The Essential Journal, we pride ourselves on operating at the forefront of contemporary fashion, and with Chester Racecourse and McArthurGlen Designer Outlet Cheshire Oaks at our side, we can honestly say that we were in the very best of company. EJ

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“From Paul Smith to Ted Baker, the Official Style guide was a rich repertoire of summerready looks fit for the Roodee and beyond.”

The Essential Journal | Issue 34

Style

COLUMN

A Cut Above This month, Ian Harrold ponders the cult of personality and the Instagram barber

image credit: Alexander Bather (Indigo & Goods)

‘T

hose who shout the loudest often have the least so say.’ It’s an old adage but a good one, and more relevant than ever in the style-over-substance, likes-over-engagement Instagram era we find ourselves in.

Don’t get me wrong, Instagram is a great place to share our passions and opinions with the world. But in terms of running your own small business, that’s not really what matters. A few hundred likes from around the world don’t really mean much if they don’t translate to good old fashioned, bankable bums on barbershop chairs.

And that’s the problem: Instagram’s promise of ready-made stardom makes everything look a little too easy. Up-and-coming barbers find themselves taking shortcuts and sidestepping the real challenges of running a small business. Or else working for free in the interest of ‘exposure’. If they’re not careful, they find that all they’ve really done is bought themselves a job, and one that doesn’t pay all that well either, if you’re giving cuts away left, right and centre.

I guess what counts is the idea of engagement. It’s important that social media opens up a dialogue with your followers. And I mean real, organic, meaningful dialogue, not some half-arsed comment made up entirely of thumbs-up emojis or some soulless Insta-bot regurgitating ready-made comments over and over again. ‘Pleasing content, fellow human! Like for like?’

And in that respect, there’s something to be said for the old way of doing things. Commitment to the craft and building solid, technical foundations will ensure that a business will continue to be a business even if Instagram were to suddenly crash.

Going back 15 years, my first barber shop, Traditions, used to give out little matchbooks with a caption that read ‘something for the weekend’. The inside of the matchbox had another little message, a gentle reminder that ‘we protect your head’, and included a single condom. Simple, effective and (depending on who you ask) pretty funny. It got chins wagging down the pub and proved to be an enduring little joke amongst the locals who would then come in and get a haircut. High-brow it ain’t, but it beats paying for likes.

The point is that the physical and the face-to-face will always endure over the abstract and over-filtered.

Social media is a wonderful, powerful thing, but it has its limits and all that shouting and saying nothing gets bloody exhausting. And sometimes it seems like shouting is all Instagram is really good for.

That, and cat memes. It’s really good for cat memes. IH words by Ian HARROLD

Issue 34 | The Essential Journal

Blood, Sweat & Indigo Indigo & Goods and Ricki Hall offer up a leaner, meaner approach to fitness and lifestyle words by Will HALBERT photography by Alexander BATHER

S

omewhere along the line, we lost our way.

It’s hard to say where, exactly. Sometime around the overnight craze of Bootea and carb cycling, perhaps. Or maybe the moment we turned our back on gluten and suddenly became scared shitless of bread. Or it might have been around the time Herbalife somehow became a valid substitute for hard work, a responsible diet and good, old fashioned accountability.

Whatever the reason, somewhere down the line we bought into the bullshit notion that fitness was easy.

Indigo & Goods’ latest collaboration with model, fitness enthusiast and fledgling barber, Ricki Hall is a clear attempt to set things straight in this regard. With a range of hard-wearing, classically-inspired gym and lifestyle staples, the RH Gym collection promotes a simpler, grittier approach to fitness, style and life in general. No shortcuts, no compromises, no excuses.

With a taste for timeless clothing and a complete disregard for trends or rules, Indigo & Goods founder, David Rix, outlines the ethos of a brand that honours the tried-andtested over the quick-and-easy: ‘Authenticity and quality stand for honesty to us. That's why we make here in England. Factories are small, often family run, sometimes a bit slow, but usually always high quality.’

It’s a refreshingly genuine, old-school approach to gym wear.

The pieces themselves - made up of organic, combed cotton sweat-

shirts, terry cloth joggers and garment-dyed tee shirts - evoke a less scientific, less faddish and more no-nonsense approach to the idea of fitness. ‘The fabrics we use have been knitted in a traditional way, using certified organic cotton where possible, here in the UK,’ says David.

‘They are the old school fabrics so often lost and replaced by those ugly spandex things. We don't use those shitty synthetic fabrics.’

The result is a range of wellmade, long-lasting and dependable goods that can be worn wherever the hell you like, according to Ricki: ‘RH GYM creates staple pieces, that are good quality, and will last and improve with age. Not disposable.

This stuff is more than just for the gym: I’m able to mix these items in with my non-gym clothing and wear them everyday.’

Conjuring up images of Raging Bull’s ring-ready Robert De Niro and a Rocky-era Sylvester Stallone in equal measure, the collection represents a fitness lifestyle miles apart from the calorie counting crowds currently hiding behind quinoa salads, kale smoothies and fasted cardio. In Ricki’s own words, the idea behind the collaboration with Indigo & Goods is to celebrate the ancient art of simplicity: ‘picking heavy shit up and putting it down. Throwing a lot of iron around. No silly machines.

No silliness. Just good, honest oldschool bodybuilding.’

Sure, a heavyweight tee shirt and well-made pair of joggers will have no direct effect whatsoever on

your physical ability, endurance or general mental conditioning. But that’s not really the point. More than anything, the RH Gym line taps into an ideal, an attitude, a state of mind.

It becomes the driving force behind your 6am run, the second wind that gets you through the home stretch, the reason to pick up the skipping rope after all these years (Rocky soundtrack optional). It’s an antidote to the lazy, the dishonest and the demotivated. It’ll add nothing to your bench, and it certainly won’t make getting fit any easier.

But you know what? Neither will Herbalife. EJ 29

In pain?

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Spire Liverpool Hospital 57 Greenbank Road, Liverpool, L18 1HQ

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The Essential Journal | Issue 34

image credit: courtesy of Royal Lancaster London

Lifestyle

A Handsome Hotel:

Royal Lancaster London It might be tough recreating the hotel’s stunning Hyde Park panoramas, but the Royal Lancaster London’s renovation is a lesson in how to maximize space and emphasizing a room with a view words by Davey BRETT

H

eavy curtains, tired décor and a misleading sense of compactness.

That was the Royal Lancaster London before London-based interior design agency, Studio Proof got their hands on it. Although the luxury five-star hotel’s £80 million renovation is impressive in its entirety (so much beautiful marble), it’s the ingenious renovation of the 411 guestrooms and suites (well, one of them) that got our interior design senses tingling.

With each room’s biggest asset being its stunning unbroken views of Hyde Park or the surrounding Royal Boroughs (depending on which side you are staying), enhancing the view was priority. Heavy traditional curtains covering a continuous parameter window - which previously Issue 34 | The Essential Journal

made the rooms feel smaller - were swapped for slick electric blinds operated by bedside switches. The result was not just a space that felt bigger, but a stunning view expanded.

The true focal point of the rooms was fully realized.

The added space allowed for smart bespoke joinery, namely an extendable desk which if needed can drop down to form a daybed.

The desk, along with plush furniture make for two very different seating options, always surrounded by the stunning panorama each room offers.

It’s food for thought in an era of ever-shrinking residential property, much of which is stacked Ballard-esque one on top of the other. Life in a tower requires ingenious touches and Studio Proof’s decision to widen interior doors - to again make the view

pop upon arrival - is an inspired one.

Sightlines were also kept consistent, with door heights extended to corridor ceilings and internal guestroom entrances following the same brief.

And on the subject of briefs, Studio Proof’s Creative Director, David Morris highlights his: ‘We have had the opportunity to lead the whole design process over 5 years since 2013, encompassing brand identity design, signage design, architectural remodelling, façade design, furniture design and of course a full interior design package. It’s the ultimate expression of what we offer as a company and has had the added benefit for me of being grounded in mid-century design, personally my favourite design era.’ EJ royallancaster.com 31

LOOKING FOR THE ULTIMATE WEDDING SUIT? Whether it's your own big day or that of a friend or family member, one thing's for sure: you want to look your very best. Easy!

With our high-performance luxury fabrics from VBC, your truly one-of-a-kind suit or tux is just an 'I do' away.

sarto@luxurytailoring.co.uk 32

@Sarto_Luxury_Tailoring

1 Regina House | 1 Victoria Street | Liverpool | L2 5AQ The Essential Journal | Issue 34

Drinking

High Spirits A month’s worth of comings and goings in the world of The Whisky Exchange words by Liz LOCK

A

s the sunshine steps its game up and we head squarely into summer, we’re channelling the feel-good vibes of a bit more vitamin D, heady BBQ aromas and excuses for sundowners. Whether you prefer to keep cool with a refreshing Italian cocktail, a cold craft beer twist on afternoon tea, or with the writings of one very cool mixologist, it’s safe to say we have you covered. Cheers!

what we're drinking Langley’s Old Tom Gin

What we're dramming

With the gin world going a bit crazy at the moment, it’s good to know some solid classic styles of gin that taste like gin should!

The Old Tom style takes its name from the days of the 18th Century when unlicensed gin sales were made illegal and production of the liquid went underground. Drinkers looking for a tipple would look for a wood plaque featuring a picture of a black cat on walls of watering holes.

They would insert a coin and whisper a password – a shot of gin would be poured down a pipe and out of a hole underneath the cat’s paw.

Langley’s Old Tom Gin is sweet and botanically intense with juicy orange aromas, leading to fennel-like anise tones. Makes a perfect Tom Collins. Simply add lemon juice, sugar syrup and top with soda.

Croftengea 2008

£25.95 - thewhiskyexchange.com

Who we're visiting

image credit: Lateef Okunnu (porthouse)

The Porterhouse, Covent Garden We don’t just love spirits here at The Whisky Exchange. We love beer too and have long been fans of The Porterhouse, just around the corner from our store in Covent Garden.

This Summer they’re launching a ‘Crafternoon Beer Tea’, a brilliant twist on an afternoon tea with carefully thought through pairings with different styles of beer. There are two menus, Light and Dark, on offer dependent on your beery taste buds. I’m personally opting for the Light option because Porterhouse IPA paired with Pork Pie & Onion Marmalade sounds like my idea of heaven.

Available at The Porterhouse, Covent Garden from 15th June (National Beer Day) and then launching internationally across The Porterhouse sites in Dublin, Wicklow and New York for International Beer Day, 3rd August 2018.

A rare chance to try an official bottling of Loch Lomond's heavily peated single malt: Croftengea.

The whisky from this carefully selected hogshead, filled into just 289 bottles, is a must-try for fans of smoky, complex and elegant whisky. Peated to a hefty 40 ppm (phenol parts per million), Croftengea boasts a singular smokiness to be reckoned with.

Distilled in 2008, this whisky was matured in a single refill American oak hogshead until 2018, when it was bottled at 54.8%. With bold notes of smoke and smoked meats beautifully underscored

by Loch Lomond's trademark fruit and rounded barley flavours, this is a dram to be savoured. £69.95 - thewhiskyexchange.com

what we're mixing Who we're following Rosa & Tonic The Italian way of life involves an almost daily ‘aperitivo’ at 6pm - we think we need to adopt the same attitude this Summer! Cocchi Rosa is a blend of two aromatic red grape varieties (Brachetto and Malvasia) with a helping of herbs, fruits and spices such as gentian, cinchona, ginger and rose petals. The result is a light, herbaceous and delicately floral aperitif that will add new dimensions to your summer drinking, especially when stirred with tonic and sipped alongside a handful of fresh strawberries.

INGREDIENTS 60ml Cocchi Rosa Tonic: to taste 2 strawberries, halved Ice cubes METHOD Pour the Cocchi Rosa into a wine glass, add the strawberries and ice and top up with tonic.

To garnish, dip half a strawberry in black pepper and place on the glass or at the side. A touch of black pepper can even be sprinkled on the drink, if you’re so inclined. Garnish with a fresh basil leaf or two.

@the_cocktailguy A pioneer in the cocktail world, Duck & Waffle’s Head of Spirit & Cocktail Development, Rich Woods has made quite a name for himself for his culinary approach to cocktail making. Intricacy, delicacy and sophistication come together to form some of the most enticing, exciting and downright pretty little concoctions in the industry.

Not only can you join his 60k strong Instagram followers in marvelling at his creations, you can also check out his first book, ‘The Cocktail Guy’ for more infusions, distillations and innovative combinations.

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Drinking

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The Essential Journal | Issue 34

HELLO@WEAREBRUNCH.COM

Issue 34 | The Essential Journal

35

Drinking with Will HALBERT

Featured Libation

Nitro Coffee

The Perfect Pairing A choice selection of spectacle-enhancing brews for the summer of sport’s biggest events curated by Dan Sandy, General Manager of East London’s Kill The Cat bottle shop and bar words by Dan SANDY

BOXING: WBO World Middleweight Title BEER: Baladin - Xyauyu Barrel Barleywine

F

36

Clearly something punchy required here. We’re thinking brandy glasses, luxurious lacing and lots of swirling. It should be an end of night beer.

Baladin Xyauyu Barrel Barleywine will make you feel like a boss with it’s sherry and dark fruit highlights, full, coating mouthfeel and warming boozy finish. But again, slow as you go and share with friends otherwise you’ll be out for the count!

Nothing happens fast in golf so you need a beer that’s interesting, quenching and summery. One that you can regularly go back to. Dutch brewers Oedipus are well known for their amazing flavour combinations and we love their ‘Swingers' grapefruit and lime gose - summery, light and refreshing.

FOOTBALL: FIFA World Cup Final BEER: Patrons Project 8.04// New England Steam Lager

CYCLING: Tour De France BEER: Siren Cold Brew Coffee Schwarzbier

As unlikely as an England Germany final is, our first beer selection is an England vs Germany showdown courtesy of Northern Monk, who have made a truly 21st century lager. Using hazy New England yeast, a tonne of new world hops and roping in super fashionable German gypsy brewers Fuerst Wiacek, it’s simple and clean enough for any football fan, while offering enough interesting flavours should the first half be a bit cagey.

Everyone in cycling likes a stimulant, right?

But when coffee and beer come together they often result in monstrously thick desert Stouts.

Not this one. With the legs to get you through a few stages, this dark, crisp lager will keep you coming back for more without putting you to bed. Think of the fresh roast coffee as your very own support car.

TENNIS: Wimbledon BEER: Hackney Brewing x Kill The Cat with Square Root – (As yet untitled) Pimms Beer Cocktail Wimbledon equals Pimms. For the start of the tournament we’ve teamed up with local legends Hackney Brewing who’ve brewed three very different beers that are poured separately, but are meant to be mixed to form the taste of (middle class) summer. This unprecedented summer experiment will be launched at Kill The Cat on Saturday 2 July. Well worth a trip out to East London.

Image credit: courtesy of Beavertown Brewery (pairings)

or those who like their caffeine kick cold and kegged, nitro has you covered. Alcoholic it isn’t, but it does bear a certain resemblance to Guinness in more ways than one. Not only does the introduction of nitrous oxide grant the cold brew coffee the theatrical, cascading charm of white on black for which the Irish stout has become world-famous, but it also results in a similar mouthfeel. Nitrogenated coffee has texture in spades, offering a richer, creamier and above all, colder coffee experience for the hotter months ahead.

According to Wayne Lew and Jane Spindler, founders of Manchester’s North Tea Power and Liverpool’s newly opened Mother Espresso, nitro is not just a feat of balance and complexity but a celebration of the craft of speciality coffee. Commercial coffee shops typically favour consistency over experimentation, offering little more than a stripped-back and over-roasted brew served too hot to actually. Mother’s homemade nitro brew is another story. It invites us to slow things down and discover those lesser-known, berry-fresh, fruity notes. ‘It’s easy to forget that coffee is a fruit, basically a cherry’ says Wayne. ‘Nitro helps you to discover coffee’s more subtle, naturally sweeter qualities.’

With a range of purpose-built taps serving nitro coffee (and a carefully-selected beer or two), Mother plays with brewing techniques and delivery methods to highlight a fruitful crossroads between craft beer and speciality coffee. ‘That’s the fun of it all,’ says Wayne, ‘there’s real room for creative overlap.

As with any craft, there’s always something or someone to learn from. Everything is always a work in progress.’

Their recently-developed, cherry-infused nitro brew is a testament to that creative overlap. With a light, velvety texture, sweet finish and cherry zest, the new brew stands up on its own whilst also hinting at its cocktail-friendly potential.

Mother Espresso will be serving homemade nitro cold brew fresh from the tap all summer. You can find them on Wood Street, Liverpool city centre. WH

GOLF: The Open Championship BEER: Oedipus Brewing - Swingers Gose

CRICKET: England v. India Test Series BEER: Beavertown - Tempus Project Metamorph Brett IPA (pictured right) It’s got to be an IPA, hasn’t it? Undergoing a slow secondary fermentation in the bottle, these dry, well carbonated, complex beers exhibit light fruits, tart and funky sourness and a clean bitterness that will keep your palate interested all day. But if you want to build a long innings like Geoffrey Boycott, start slow.

Kill The Cat (43 Brick Ln, London E1 6PU) recently won Time Out’s Love London Award for Most Loved Pub or Bar in Shoreditch & Hoxton; Hackney Brewing x Kill The Cat with Square Root – (As yet untitled) Pimms Beer Cocktail launches on Saturday, July 7.

Agave ‘I

The Secret Ingredient

Showcasing the unsung heroes and hidden ingredients of your favourite libations

t’s a perennial succulent,’ say the experts.

‘It’s hipster honey,’ say the cynics. ‘It’s a giant Mexican pineapple,’ say the people who really, really like pineapples.

To some extent, they’ll all right.

The Blue Weber Agave, or agave tequilana, is indeed a succulent (think cactus or aloe vera) cultivated primarily in the Western Mexican state of Jalisco. Its core, or piña (Spanish for pineapple) is steamed to extract what’s known as aguamiel.

This can then be filtered down to agave nectar or else fermented to make tequila (or mezcal, if you prefer your shots with an artisanal edge and a tonne more smoke).

Sweeter than honey, thicker than maple syrup, and less processed than corn syrup, agave nectar quickly became the golden boy amongst bartenders and wholefood enthusiast alike. It boasts a sweet-

ness and consistency that plays a real symphony in a cocktail. Granted, a new war on fructose has knocked the natural sweetener off its health food pedestal, but that doesn’t change the fact that it makes a banging Tommy’s Margarita. Just don’t eat spoonfuls of the stuff and you’ll be fine. WH

Brendan Soprano, head bartender at Liverpool’s primary tequileria, El Bandito, gives his two cents on the perfect Tommy’s Margarita: 50ml Ocho blanco tequila 25ml Fresh lime juice 10ml Agave nectar 1 Dash of orange or grapefruit bitters (optional) Shake and strain over ice. No garnish. No fuss.

Just sip and enjoy.

The Essential Journal | Issue 34

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40 SLATER STREET LIVERPOOL L1 4BX THEMERCHANTLIVERPOOL.CO.UK

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The Essential Journal | Issue 34

Dining

Supporting Recipe of the Month the Soul of Port of Prince Stew Northern Hospitality (Ajiaco de Puerto Príncipe) machine specialists, La

Serves 10

Marzocco are taking

Ingredients 1/2lb (230g) tasajo (salted dried beef) 1 bay leaf 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 small green bell peppers, finely chopped 1 large white onion, finely chopped 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1lb (460g) pork, loin or tenderloin, coarsely diced 1/2 small chicken (1lb 5oz/600g), coarsely diced 4 tablespoons lime juice 3 large tomatoes, diced 3 ears field corn, cut crosswise into 1 inch (2.5cm) disks 1 yuca (cassava) root (7oz/200g), peeled and chopped 2 large taro roots (11/4lb/560g total), peeled and chopped 2 medium white or yellow sweet potatoes (1lb/445g total), peeled and chopped 1/2 small yam (31/2oz/100g), peeled and chopped 1 green plantain, peeled and thinly sliced 1 tablespoon tomato paste (tomato puree) Salt 1 ripe plantain, peeled and thinly sliced 1/2lb (230g) pumpkin, diced

their years of hospitality experience on the road and bringing the La Marzocco Northern Roadshow to a city near you words by Dan HARVEY

Image credit: Sidney Bensimon (Recipe)

T

Visit www.uk.lamarzocco.com for updates on The Northern Roadshow or follow on instagram @lamarzoccouk Hull Wednesday 27th June Leeds Wednesday 11th July York Wednesday 1st August Sunderland Wednesday 22nd August Liverpool Wednesday 12th September Sheffield Wednesday 3rd October

Issue 34 | The Essential Journal

(Ajiaco de Puerto Príncipe) Preparation time 40 minutes, plus 12 hours dried beef soaking time Cooking time 3–4 hours

The hand-crafted espresso

o further develop the coffee community in the North of the UK, La Marzocco opened their first ‘La Marzocco Local’ office in Leeds in July 2017.

The ‘La Marzocco Local’ office was created to be a connection point to drive and support local coffee communities. Since it’s opening, the space has offered community driven events with a focus on hospitality; featuring involvement from Grey Goose Vodka, Storm Tea and some of the UK’s finest coffee roasters. This continues to be an ongoing effort to support the pioneers within the industry as well as partnering with the new generation of artisans.

Starting June 27th, La Marzocco will be hosting specialist events to further grow local hospitality communities in the North of the UK. Using the same ethos that propelled La Marzocco Local forward, the events will provide enquiring minds with the tools to realise their ambitions and to elevate them to the next level. Bringing in guest speakers and exclusive partners, the topics of the Northern Roadshow events include ‘Finance and Design’, ‘Green Bean Supply’, ‘Marketing and Magazines’, ‘Coffee and Cycling Culture’ and ‘Cold Brew and Cocktails’.

La Marzocco are firm believers in breaking bread to build relationships so guests can expect locally sourced food and drink at each of the roadshow stop-offs.

La Marzocco will be running a competition to visit their home in Florence, Italy. The more events you attend the better chance you have of winning the trip. DH

Port of Prince Stew

Method In a container, combine the tasajo and enough water to cover. Let soak for at least 12 hours, changing the water every 4 hours, to remove the salt.

Drain the beef and cut in half. Transfer to a large pot and add water to cover. Bring to a boil, drain the water, add fresh water, and bring to a boil again to remove the salt.

This month we bring you a vibrant, hearty summer stew packed with flavour, courtesy of Cuba: The Cookbook, Phaidon’s latest compilation of authentic country-specific cuisine

Drain and return the beef to the pot. Add water to cover 3 or 4 finger-widths above it. Add the bay leaf, cover, and cook over medium heat until softened, 11/2–2 hours.

Reserving the cooking water if desired (see Note), drain the beef and cut into medium pieces.

words by Davey BRETT

A

ccording to renowned Cuban anthropologist Fernando Ortiz, Cuba is a stew. Well not quite, Ortiz describes the Caribbean’s largest island as an “Ajiaco – a complex stew, made from various types of vegetables, which we call vianda (tubers), and different types of meat, all brought to a boil until producing a very thick and succulent broth that is seasoned with the very Cubanají (pepper), for which it is named.” Long story short though, Cuba is a stew.

Benefitting from generations of migration, Cuba’s cuisine is a vibrant and colourful mixture of influences from all over the world. Long-standing foundations were laid by Spanish colonizers, African slaves brought to the island and the indigenous population, but other cultures played a part too. Chinese migrants brought ingredients such as pak choy, rice and spinach, whilst French migrants escaping the Haitian revolution founded coffee plantations, inspiring the national drink.

Further influences added to the national fusion. Jamaicans brought coconut milk, Americans brought modern cooking equipment and Cubans

of all stripes remember the proliferation of Soviet products. The influence of the former USSR was further cemented with many Cubans studying in the motherland during the cold war.

Cuba: The Cookbook revels in this cultural melting pot of history. Charting the nation’s authentic cuisine from Cuban pantry explainers to drinks, appetizers to substantial festive stews, Phaidon’s latest exploration in nation-specific cuisine is a rich and illuminating cooking manual.

Every page is dripping with colour and flavour, but also insight, a testament to the level of research put into the book.

Our pick from the book carries a festive significance. Commonly prepared at the end of June for the Saint Juan and Saint Pedro festivities, the Port of Prince stew is a hearty Ajiaco popular in the rural parts of Cuba. Prepare for a large group during the World Cup and wash down with a few Cuba Libres. The recipe for the latter is in there too if you get stuck.

Cuba: The Cookbook (Phaidon) is out now

In a large pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the bell peppers, onion, and garlic and sauté until the onion turns translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the cooked beef, pork, chicken, and 2 tablespoons of the lime juice and sauté until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook until the liquid reduces slightly, about 3 minutes. Add the corn and 81/2 cups (68 fl oz/2 liters) water and cook until the meat is soft, about 30 minutes.

Add the yuca (cassava), taro, sweet potatoes, and yam. Dip the green plantain in the remaining 2 tablespoons lime juice to prevent it from darkening the broth, and add it to the pot.

Cook until the root vegetables are soft, about 20 minutes.

Add the tomato paste (puree), 1/2 tablespoon salt, the ripe plantain, and pumpkin and cook until thickened, about 30 minutes. Adjust the salt to taste and serve.

Note: One option for preventing the green plantain from discoloring the stew is to cook it separately in its peel in the beef cooking water.

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Travel

Postcards

For more information, visit mikkellerrunningclub.dk

For a sporty edition of our regular travel feature, we quizzed captains of the Mikkeller running club. Founded in Denmark, with chapters worldwide, Mikkeller specialises in group running events with a rewarding post-run beer

Panama City, Panama Eduardo Ortega, captain of Panama City’s Mikkeller chapter, gives us a rundown of the local hotspots What is your favourite route to run in Panama City?

The first, is definitely cinta Costera, it has the best infrastructure so it can be accessed by foot and car. You run right next to the bay of Panama and the other side you have huge buildings, which makes running very interesting. Recently they lengthened it and you can finish next the country’s newest football stadium, El Maracana. If you are a fan of trail running, there are also quite a few options very close to the city, I would personally choose Cerro Azul because of the complexity of the hills and the difficulty of the route.

To finish, go to Buenas Pintas.

It’s a bottle shop that has 12 tap lines that constantly vary, it is unlikely that you will find the same beer. Is has a very good atmosphere and a selection of beer both on tap and bottle that covers all styles and flavours from around the world.

What is Panama City's best kept secret...that you're willing to share?

There is a small place in the centre of the city called LB Bieren. It’s a Belgian bar and the owner is a Belgian beer geek. They specialize only in these types of beer and I know people who travel from Costa Rica, Colombia and even the US to buy beers from these guys. It’s also really affordable.

What's a bar or restaurant (or both) that best captures the spirit of Panama City?

Panama has a lot of influences from all over the world, a crossroads for many cultures and people. We were also a part of the United States for a while.

El Republicano Pub is a restaurant that I think combines a lot of culinary approaches and adapts them to the Panamanian tradition, as well as winning Burger Week with the best burger for two consecutive years. Their beers are highly respected too. It has a faithful clientele and is usually busy.

What's a neighbourhood that's transforming for the better?

The Casco Viejo de Panama used to be a very poor area and in could even be dangerous in some parts. It is however historically significant with museums and a presidential palace.

Today, it’s a tourist site transformed and renovated, with a high density 40

of tourists and lots of nightlife. My recommendation for the old town would without a doubt be La Rana Dorada. It’s an incredible two floor brewpub with quality beers and unparalleled pub food.

What is a tourist trap to avoid and where should we visit instead?

I think one of the biggest tourist traps is the visitor center of the Miraflores locks at the Panama Canal. They charge at the entrance, the food is not very good and there really is nothing to see. I am not disparaging visiting the Panama Ship Canal however, not at all. Go when a boat or a big ship is passing by and less than 1 km further on is the Pedro Miguel Lookout. You can see the same boat going by for free.

When is the best time to visit and why?

I would recommend the summer, around January - February. The weather is much cooler during the day and there are many outdoor activities. The Micro Brew Fest Panama is without a doubt the best outdoor festival that Panama City has to offer. It is an exclusive festival of craft beer that was founded in 2013 with only 1000 attendees, this year it received around 7000 plus. It offers the best variety of local craft beer, home-brewers and exports. There is an incredible atmosphere, it’s only once a year and it lasts two days.

Eduardo (front, seated) and the Panama City Mikkeller Running Club

Santiago, Chile Captain of Mikkeller’s Chile chapter, Steve Macguire, offers up a couple of Santiago-based secrets What is your favourite route to run in Santiago?

There are two main routes in Santiago that are easily accessible and free to use. On Sundays some streets are made pedestrian only which makes it even nicer to run. One route follows the Mapocho River from the suburbs of Vitacura to downtown Santiago. There is at least 12 km of beautiful parks, museums, and other historical landmarks worth checking out. The second route starts more around the midpoint of the first route in the district of Providencia which goes up the scenic hill of Cerro San Cristobal. You get a breathtaking birds eye view of the city. Along with the view, there is an enormous statue of the Virgin Mary nestled at the top of the hill, a zoo, swimming pools, and gondola rides.

This second route is a bit shorter if you decide to go straight up, but there are a lot of alternative routes along the way.

What is Santiago's best kept secret... that you're willing to share?

I’m not sure if its a secret, but I’d definitely say Santiago’s location and climate. It never gets too extreme here. Only a few days a year does the temperature fall below 0° and in the summer it’s a nice dry 30-35°C. This country has beautiful beaches a little over an hour away from the Capital towards the west, and to the east, we have the Andes Mountains where you will find awesome places to ski or go trekking. In the gourmet aspect, Chile is known for great meat, incredible wine and a craft beer scene that is booming.

What's a bar or restaurant (or both) that best captures the spirit of Santiago?

Hard Question. The spirit of Santiago can’t be captured by a single place, it’s too diverse. Especially these days with a major immigration surge of people from around the world, which has opened the Chilean people up to new flavours and food styles. There are classic bars that have a lot of history, for example Bar Liguria which serves traditional food in a nicely decorated place. For a more modern take on Chilean food, recently opened by the biggest local craft beer brand, you have Kross Bar. If you are looking for an excellent selection of craft beer, local and international, look for El Honesto Mike they have awesome burgers and even more awesome beer, it’s also our Mikkeller Running Club Clubhouse where we get together every first saturday to run and then drink beer.

Steve (centre, on knee) and the Santiago Mikkeller Running Club

What's a neighbourhood that's transforming for the better?

I would definitely say downtown Santiago, but I would fuse another two neighbourhoods, all three are in walking distance or only just a few metro stations away: Providencia and Bellavista. All three areas are full of cafes, bars, hotels, historical landmarks, and the best craft beer spots. These sectors used to be more traditional, but now there’s a more modern vibe. A lot of food styles can be found and places with more attention on ambience and effort to provide quality service and products.

What is a tourist trap to avoid and where should we visit instead?

Luckily, there aren't too many tourist traps in Santiago. But I would recommend studying a map first and trying to avoid the rush hour.

The subway is a fast and easy way to navigate this crazy town. Although, it has its peak hours as well.

When is the best time to visit and why?

Anytime of the year is fun, depending on what you want to do, but I recommend November to April for the best weather, January and February are a little more packed with tourists especially at the beach.

Festivals worth checking out are Lollapalooza in April and any vendimia (grape harvest celebrations). March and April are always fun months to visit. I’m afraid Beerfests are a big thing here in Chile, but not good enough to recommend to anyone yet.

How long to stay depends but I’d say no more than a week. This country is too big to just stay in the central area where Santiago is.

The Essential Journal | Issue 34

Culture

Architectural Thoughts On:

Outdoor Swimming Formerly a Victorian leisure staple, the iconic British lido is seeing a renaissance… words & photography

by Róisín HANLON

Issue 34 | The Essential Journal

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ost architects have a real soft spot for dereliction. Whether it’s a crumbling castle, abandoned factory or an out-of-use water tower, there’s something about the derelict that gets a lot of us all hot under the collar. I think the main reason is potential. The bittersweet potential that’s long gone and the enticing possibilities of a refurbishment. These are the feelings that struck me last summer when I stumbled across the remains of Traie Meanagh.

Just along the coastal route from Port Erin on the Isle of Mann, the remains of this open air Victorian bathing pool sit disused, dramatically thrusting out into the sea. Both brutally ugly and stunningly beautiful at the same time, it’s a building surrounded by the beauty of nature, but within the protective arms of man-made walls.

The Victorians were interested in swimming for leisure and health, and it was they who built the first indoor and outdoor pools in this country, in simple decorative styles.

Traie Meanagh was opened around 1899, towards the end of this period and was one of the earlier mixed-gender pools (this apparently being somewhat of a selling point). In its heyday, you could visit Traie Meanagh for a bracing swim, a swimming gala, diving competitions and even beauty pageants. A place for exercise, but also a social venue.

Plymouth’s Tinside Lido has recently been restored to its former glory. The building itself is bold but simple, framing the true star of the show – the glittering blue of the sea and the semi-circular pool. Tinside is a prime example of what comes to mind when we think of open air swimming pools; the archetypal lido – a glamorous, Art-Deco social venue.

Tinside belongs to a renaissance of outdoor swimming that was popular in the 30s, when municipal councils open lidos all over the country. And it wasn’t just in the UK where this fashion was felt. One of the most well known is the Icebergs at Bondi; a highly instagrammable lap pool enjoying fantastic views across Australia’s most iconic beach. But if Bondi is too busy, don’t worry, there are thirty four other ocean pools to choose from in the Sydney region alone: Bronte, Dee Why, North Curl Curl to name a few.

North Sydney Olympic Swimming pool – tucked just under the Harbour Bridge - is another stunning saltwater pool. Many credit the salt water as the reason that eighty six world records have been set there. Locals will tell you it’s the salt water’s added buoyancy that will makes for a speedier swim.

Back in the UK (and down under), the 30s building boom started to wane and towards the end of the 60s visitors were in decline.

There are many reasons for this, including a lack of funding, but also foreign holidays becoming cheaper and more accessible. Given the option, people preferred a swim in the Med to an unheated Irish Sea water dip.

Now, we are seeing a third wave of popularity for outdoor pools. Obviously it’s a lot easier to dive into a pool in the balmy temperatures of Sydney than it is in North West England; but wild and outdoor swimming numbers are on the rise in the UK. The Outdoor Swimming Society’s membership has grown by 30% every year over the last decade. This is across the whole of the country, even the chilly north.

It’s a hobby that's gaining popularity across different social and age groups too. Plus, it’s not just the activity but the venue that’s seeing a resurgence. Since the early 2000s there have been many pools saved, often due to public lobbying. London Fields, Droitwich Spa, Tinside, Saltdean and Clifton are just a few already opened, and more campaigns are ongoing. Evidently these venues inspire loyalty.

There have even been suggested schemes for entirely new lidos, including Shadwell Basin and a floating lido in the middle of the Thames. For this to be a true outdoor swimming era we need some new pools to be built with our own stylistic touches, not just renovations of existing lidos from yesteryear.

So what does the future hold for Traie Meanagh? It is certainly not universally loved and is often referred to as an eyesore. It’s not lucky enough to have the same number of devoted fans to lobby on its behalf as other pools, but there are voices calling for its preservation and renovation. Perhaps some other fanciful souls caught up in its romance whilst on a brisk countryside walk will champion its future. EJ

'Inside is a prime example of what comes to mind when we think of open air swimming pools; the archetypal lido – a glamorous, Art-Deco social venue.'

41

Partner Content

Liverpool’s Leaps & Bounds We sit down with Adonis Michael of Michael Rose & Baylis to discuss Liverpool’s burgeoning property and development scene words by Will HALBERT

"We have seen numerous examples in recent years of graduates and creative types choosing Liverpool as their home and contributing to the City in wonderful ways."

The Essential Journal | Issue 34

image credit: Thomas Sumner

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T

en years on from being granted European Capital of Culture and Liverpool is barely recognisable. Sure, the accents and attitudes that gave the city such roguish charm in the first place are still very much there, but its face has changed over the years. This is by no means a bad thing: Fairly recent developments in Liverpool have helped the city carve out a well-earned spot amongst other Northern giants.

Adonis Michael, founder and director of Michael Rose & Baylis, highlights a number of developments and why we should keep our eyes on them: ‘Firstly, there is a real growth in the Smithdown Road area at present. One of Liverpool’s oldest and most famous roads has seen a real upturn in recent years with many trendy bars and restaurants starting to emerge.’ He goes on: ‘This area is traditionally a student area but it is certainly one to keep an eye on as property prices are sure to rise given the influx of interest it is currently having.’

Liverpool’s North Dock area shows a lot of potential too, According to Adonis: ‘The Titanic Hotel and potential Everton stadium development in this area has led to a groundswell of interest in some of the old buildings which have been neglected for too long.’ ‘Old abandoned warehouses with great historical significance are on the brink of being turned into luxury apartments,’ he continues. ‘This is something I believe is going to be fantastic for this city, and the continued growth of this area in particular.’

But that’s not to say there haven’t been some serious hiccups along the way. The lasting signs of the city’s many transformations show as many scars as they do triumphs. The Liverpool skyline has been transformed as some property developments boom while others stutter and halt, tripping, perhaps, over the hurdles of their own ambition, or crumbling under the weight of buyer-funded development schemes.

For better or worse, new developments stand storeys tall for all to see, either as monuments to artistic visions fulfilled or else to failed investments quickly abandoned.

But that doesn’t change the fact that at ground level, Liverpool is positively thriving. Artists, artisans and young entrepreneurs alike either dominate local scenes or else find themselves in the process of creating new ones. Each new independent bar or eatery is a testament to individuality, fighting back the big chains and celebrating newfound communal spirit.

As Adonis points out, many small businesses have even taken to setting up shop in the rubble of former industrial spots. The Baltic Quarter stands as a rough-and-ready creative design and hospitality hotspot that wears its industrial roots on its sleeve. ‘It has fast become the most popular area of the city for marketing and IT companies as well as some very imaginative bars and restaurants,’ says Adonis. ‘For an area that spent far too long as a collection of abandoned warehouses, this has been a very welcome development for the city.’

Outside of the design, technology and hospitality industries, housing projects aim not only to provide new opportunities to aspiring homeowners, but also seek to rejuvenate Liverpool’s more neglected postcodes. In this respect, the student effect cannot be ignored: ‘The continued influx of students is massive, but more important is the amount of students who are staying in the City once they have graduated. We have seen numerous examples in recent years of graduates and creative types choosing Liverpool as their home and contributing to the City in wonderful ways.’

We can’t say we blame them.

But where do we go from here? ‘Who knows?’ is Adonis’ tentative answer, spoken with equal doses of excitement and apprehension: ‘With the uncertainty surrounding the entire UK and Brexit negotiations there is definitely a sense of unease. However, this is a city which has been through adversity more than a few times and whatever happens, the spirit of the Liverpool people will always thrive and find new ways to prosper.’ EJ

Issue 34 | The Essential Journal

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Business Pictured from top Vác FC Owner, John Marshall Hungarian club's trophy haul Vác FC players contest a red card Vintage Vác, 1899

So, You Want To:

Buy A Football Club In the first part of a new regular series, in which we speak to the people that have made realities out of popular daydreams, we chat about the trials and tribulations of owning a football club with John Marshall, the Liverpudlian owner of Hungarian football club Vác FC words by Davey BRETT

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here’s a funny anecdote about the first time Roman Ambramovich flew into London after buying Chelsea. Rumour has it, that upon the final approach into Heathrow, the Chelsea owner spotted Fulham’s humble Craven Cottage out of the window, and mouthed something along the lines of ‘swear word, I haven’t bought that, have I?’ The first time Vác FC owner, John Marshall, flew into Budapest, he’d have been lucky to spot the ant-like home of the football club soon to be his.

It’s not often you come across the owner of a football club. Usually, they make every effort to stay away from the fans. Of the twenty teams in next year’s Premier League, fourteen will have foreign owners with a majority stake. The pattern continues down to League One, with many of the owners proving controversial among fans, keeping their distance in the safe and mysterious confines of the director’s box.

So far, John Marshall hasn’t had to face the fury of his club’s fans.

With two back to back promotions (as champions) between 2013 and 2015 following his takeover in 2012, it’s no wonder. John’s stewardship has taken Budapest-based Vác FC from the brink, back to the Hungarian second tier enjoying the comfort of mid-table with an eye firmly on another promotion.

Chances are, you haven’t heard of Vác FC, just like football fans in Hungary probably won’t have heard of Blackburn Rovers, but as I sit with John earlier in the year, he agrees the two are a fair comparison. Both have a history punctuated by a dramatic top tier league title in the 90s, both dabbled with Europe (Vác FC bowing out of Champions League qualifying to PSG), both have

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since found themselves lingering in the lower divisions and both have foreign owners. When quizzed on why of all things he bought a football team in Hungary, John’s answer is to the point.

“It gave me the opportunity to combine my love for business and football into one project.

In addition, when I got involved in 2012, Hungarian football was at the beginning of a revolution so to speak and I felt I could only add value to Vác FC.” The revolution John touches upon can be linked back to the country’s football-obsessed populist Prime Minister Viktor Orban. Having played semi-professional football at the same time as being Prime Minister during his first elected term, Orban has since invested lavishly in the country’s football infrastructure. The most noticeable example being the Pancho Arena, a cathedral of a football stadium with a capacity that’s double the population of the village it towers above.

Owning a football club has taught John a lot as well as changing the way he views the game as a whole.

“People talk about romance in football, it happens sometimes, briefly, like when we beat Hungarian Champions Videoton 3-1 in our FA Cup last November. These are the moments we work towards and cherish. The day to day work of an owner and executive committee however is far from romantic. Running a football club is very complex.

There are so many people involved at every level and all of those people have their own expectations of the club and of me as owner. It is impossible to satisfy everyone.”

John’s passion for football shines through in conversation, especially when he shows me the first

“People talk about romance in football, it happens sometimes, briefly, like when we beat Hungarian Champions Videoton 3-1 in our FA Cup last November. These are the moments we work towards and cherish."

goal from the previously mentioned giant killing. In a swift attacking move that begins with the keeper, Vác bomb down the wing with seven passes, two of which backheels, with the third putting the ball beyond the keeper at the near post. It’s Barcelona-esque and John knows it, grinning as he shows me the goal on his phone.

A staunch Everton fan, John knows what it’s like to be a fan.

Everton is his obsession and it’s this passion for football that helps with ideas and understanding the people around the club, whilst keeping his football emotion in check. The current head coach of Vác FC is former captain, Tibor Nagy, a local legend that helped the team to their league title in the 90s. John insists on keeping a hands-off approach when it comes to team matters. But that’s not to say he won’t have a word if he forks out for a development player that isn’t given a game.

When asked what the future holds, John’s emphasis is on building. “The development of infrastructure must be dealt with before we can even entertain the idea of pushing for promotion into the Hungarian premier league. The first phase will start in the autumn with the demolition and construction of a new main stand at Vác City Stadium. After which we plan to lay a brand new pitch with under soil heating, install new flood lights and then renovate another stand whilst erecting a roof to protect more fans from the elements.”

The experience has given him a cause for empathy too, perhaps bringing him a little closer to a certain Mr Moshiri (in spirit).

“Sometimes you must be cruel to be kind and try not to be hasty. I now empathise with other club owners nowadays and criticise much less.” EJ The Essential Journal | Issue 34

Books

Our editor’s favourite sport books including game-changing footballers, the world’s greatest boxer and a Pulitzer-winning surf memoir words by Davey BRETT

Cyrille Regis: My Story

by Cyrille REGIS

Although most people know former West Bromwich Albion and Coventry striker Cyrille Regis as the first black icon in British football (along with his fellow ‘Three Degrees’ Laurie Cunningham and Brendan Batson), few know his story. Against a backdrop of racism and poverty (having emigrated from French Guiana with his family in the 1960s) Regis quickly went from park football maestro to one of the most talented and important strikers in British football. His autobiography captures the highs and lows of a remarkable career, confronting racism with talent, hardship with belief and inspiring a generation of black players to this day.

Cyrille Regis: My Story (Carlton) is out now

King of the World

by David REMNICK

The story of a heavyweight icon told by a heavyweight writer.

Remnick’s approach to Ali in the context of his opponents, associates and the America of the day provides an extra layer to a widely-known sporting life and shows how inseparable his story is from the social fabric of America. Charting the iconic fighter’s early days, the Olympics and journey from Cassius Clay to Muhammed Ali, King of the World follows the iconic fighter as he evolves not just as a fighter, but as a man of the people.

King of the World (Picador) is out now

Goals are great and stuff, but Lionel and CR7 are hardly on the edge of human endurance, are they? Meanwhile, the characters in Two Hours are pushing the boundaries of human endurance whilst nobody bats an eyelid. Exploring man’s quest to break the book’s namesake ‘magical barrier’ in marathon running, with Kenyan distance runner Geoffrey Mutai as the case study, Caesar’s fascinating book not only informs across the spectrum of culture, genetics and history, but also begs the question, why are we not making more of this? A much-needed spotlight on the world’s most overlooked athletes.

Two Hours

by Ed CEASER

Two Hours (Penguin General) is out now

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

by William FINNEGAN

It comes as no surprise that despite being published three years ago, William Finnegan’s Pulitzer Prize-winning surf memoir remains in the New York Times’ bestsellers list (tenth in the sport and fitness chart). Chronicling his life in surfing, the sport itself and the places it has taken him (as well as his life in writing), Barbarian Days is rich, emotive and plants you right on the crest of his passion for surfing. Layered and extremely personal, Finnegan’s ability to capture the sheer beauty and terrifying danger in equal measure is sure to leave even the least surf-orientated reader spellbound.

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life (Little, Brown) is out now

Underdogs

by Tony HANNAN

Not for a long time has a story been so prime for a Ken Loach adaptation. Telling the story of Rugby League second-tier stalwarts Batley Bulldogs and their remarkable 2016 season, Underdogs is a warm and humorous story of working class pride, based around a sport that rarely makes headlines outside of the M62 corridor.

At the forefront of the story is Keegan Hirst, Batley’s captain and the first active player in Rugby League to come out as gay. An inspirational tale by all accounts, Hannan’s remarkable storytelling is deserving of an inevitable cinematic release.

Underdogs (Bantam) is out now

Issue 34 | The Essential Journal

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Film with Tom WILLIAMS

Hereditary Review:

You know when you’re a kid lying in bed and you think you see a figure in the darkness, but it turns out that silhouette is just a pile of clothes, or a coincidentally placed object? Hereditary captures that fear, and many others, more succinctly than many a film before it

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ereditary centres around Annie Graham (Toni Collette) and her family, most significantly the relationship with her deceased mother and her young daughter, Charlie. Milly Shapiro plays the offspring who ticks off almost every box in the creepy kid checklist. She dissects animals, walks off on her own and makes a nightmare-inducing clicking noise with her mouth. The stoicism with which Shapiro performs is utterly frightening and outstanding from a feature debutant. This is matched by a haunting portrayal of motherhood from Collette and a deeply emotive Alex Wolff who plays Charlie’s sibling, Peter.

Annie has had a traumatic life as she has lost almost everyone she cares deeply about, a fact she confesses reluctantly, and heartbreakingly, in a loss support group.

Her day job sees her creating artistic “small worlds” which bring a Wes Anderson level of detail to miniature sets of her own house and other locations in her life. Although not particularly moved by her manipulative mother’s death, she uses her art as a form of catharsis in dealing with her grief.

Themes of manipulation are key to the success of director Ari Aster’s eerie vision. Annie frequently laments the hold her mother had on her granddaughter, and acts as a puppeteer of sorts when creating her own landscapes. As events led her to become increasingly unhinged, this

control over her art is the only thing that grounds her, even when she starts recreating disturbing incidents from her own life in her pieces.

"The stoicism with which Shapiro performs is utterly frightening and outstanding from a feature debutant. This is matched by a haunting portrayal of motherhood from Collette and a deeply emotive Alex Wolff who plays Charlie’s sibling, Peter."

Aster uses clever camera movements to suggest the Graham family is also living in some kind of ethereal-dollhouse with a non-descript being watching over her. The camera trickery doesn’t stop here: Aster and cinematographer Pawel Pogorzelski play around with lighting and shadows brilliantly, with some of the biggest scares coming from deft, yet horrifying, visual effects.

When confronting her losses, Annie becomes increasingly involved

in the occult, courtesy of overly-friendly Joan (Ann Dowd) who offers her support and otherworldly knowledge. Despite cynicism from herself and husband Steve (a sympathetic Gabriel Byrne), Annie gains an increasing belief in spiritualism and all kinds of spooky things.

This is where the pace is cranked up after a slow, tense beginning which is helped by a thudding and scratchy Colin Stetson score and, at times, unbearably slow camera movements. The tension does trail off occasionally, with the momentum sometimes haltering like a dodgy gear change. However, you’re brought back in by a tight script which is constantly dropping hints and little details which help to build Aster’s overall vision which has clearly been thought out to every last inch.

A quote uttered in a classroom early on in the film has a particular resonance in Hereditary: “we’re pawns in a horrible, hopeless machine”. It’s rare a character seems to have complete control over their actions, making them seem utterly powerless in a tale that becomes increasingly more about what we can’t see than what we can. Whether it’s the invisible bonds that tie families together, or the omnipotent sprits that surround us: Hereditary offers a chilling reminder of how fragile life is.

Hereditary; Out Now

What to stream this month PLANET EARTH II

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SAUSAGE PARTY

THE SHALLOWS

(Netflix)

(Netflix)

(Netflix)

The second instalment of the much-revered nature documentary to end all nature documentaries. With even more mind-blowing shots and information, this is definitely one to watch on a Sunday afternoon (if you haven’t already).

A typical Seth Rogan written joint which subverts typical Disney characteristics whilst remaining loyal to his stoner-comedy roots.

A great genre film from a few years back sees Blake Lively struggle in the water amidst a shark attack: short, tense and superb.

The Essential Journal | Issue 34

Film with Tom WILLIAMS

We caught up with the creator of this year’s most disturbing horror film, Hereditary

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ri Aster impresses in his first feature film, but evidence of his incredible directorial eye is everywhere in his previous short films. Along with these shorts we discussed believing in ghosts, the importance of subversion and researching the occult Tom WILLIAMS: Do you believe in ghosts?

Ari ASTER: I’m not particularly superstitious, but I am very susceptible to paranoia. I’ve slept in places that people have called haunted and felt all weird. I’ll hear a sound and my imagination won’t stop running.

That makes a lot of sense. In Hereditary, and indeed a lot of your shorts, you seem to find something sinister in typically commonplace moments.

Is subverting the ordinary a key part of your ethos as a director?

I like transgression and subversion. I think a big part of it is subverting the ordinary and also subverting tropes and conventions. My shorts, even more than this film, are movie movies. They are referential in certain ways and there playing with conventions and the ways things are depicted in films.

The Strange Thing About The Johnsons (2011) is playing with the domestic melodrama in an absurd and grotesque way. The short, Munchausen (2013) is taking the idealised vision of the suburban household and finding what’s insidious about that. Hereditary is a much less referential film and feels more grounded in reality, but it is also aims to unabashedly be a horror movie and I hope it’s a very good one.

image credit: Courtesy of Entertainment Film Distributors

Is subversion a key part of the horror genre?

There is a complacency that comes with watching a genre film for most audiences, people come in with their expectations and knowing what the formulas are and what the devices are. There’s a joy to be had in setting up things conventionally, as a filmmaker, and then finding ways to upend them.

Hopefully in ways that shock an otherwise passive audience into engaging in a different way. That’s what I look for as a viewer, I’m looking for that moment in a film where I realise the experience is no longer in my control.

You capture this well in your visual style. It’s bathed in familiarity, but also manages to be eerie and surreal. In Hereditary, the main set resembles a doll house: something that only resembles the real. Is the uncanny something that fascinates you, or indeed scares you?

I was certainly chasing the uncanny in this film and it was something discussed in pre-production. We built the entire house on a stage so we could shoot it in a certain way – the dollhouse aesthetic. It was important to me that the house began as a home, even if it was a complicated home and then become increasingly un-home like. I agree with you, I think the aim is to ground you with easily recognisable emotions, but then it gradually spirals out of control and adapts a nightmare logic and becomes unhinged. In that way, it owes a large debt to the domestic melodrama. It hopes to honour all the unpleasant extreme emotions of the characters by being as big and extreme as those feelings.

You like to play with the peripherals of the frame a lot, hiding things in plain sight and so on. Is this important to you?

Yeah, I love films that play with multiple planes in the same frame. Which is why I love Jacques Tati and Roy Andersson. Like I was saying earlier, you don’t want a complacent viewer, you want to encourage engagement and this is a great tool in doing that.

As a sketch artist, how many of the drawings that appear in the film were yours?

A lot of them are me. We had an artist in Utah, Sam, who did Charlie’s toys.

Then later on, I did some of my own: Charlie’s drawings were probably half Sam and half me. The drawing of Paimon towards the end was mine.

How much research did you have to into the occult side of the movie?

It’s nothing I’ve ever been interested in: I find it very disturbing. But I did do a lot of research for the film and it did unnerve me. I did the research whilst I was writing the script and then when I was directing I told everyone else to do their own research [Laughs] because I was done.

You don’t particularly like to refer to yourself as a horror director: is there a particular reason for this?

I love the genre, and I really enjoyed making this film and my next film will be a horror film. But I just consider myself a genre director and I intend to branch out.

SPACE JAM

THE AGE OF INNOCENCE

(Amazon)

(Amazon)

A great dose of 90s nostalgia comes in the form of this part-animated, part-live action, sports movie.

It really does have everything.

One of Scorsese’s lesser praised masterworks which warrants a viewing with two incredible performances from Daniel Day-Lewis and Michelle Pfeiffer.

Issue 34 | The Essential Journal

Where would you want to branch out?

Comedy, dark comedy. I’d love to make a musical and a western. I love genre.

From Charlie’s character I got big Don’t Look Now vibes: was the film important to Hereditary?

It is the biggest inspiration for this film. I consider Hereditary a spiritual sequel to Don’t Look Now (1973). I love Nicolas Roeg and Charlie and her orange sweatshirt. If it evokes memories of the girl in the red raincoat that’s not purely accidental. It’s a great film.

As is yours!

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Column

The Iain Hoskins Column

The Power of Seven Some years ago, at drama school, I was taught by a fantastic and inspirational dance teacher, tasked with whipping into shape many a non-dancing actor like myself...

words by Iain HOSKINS

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ith many of his students, absolute beginners in any kind of movement discipline, a way of inspiring change for those set in their ways would be his mantra of the seven-year cell cycle. Essentially, all the body’s cells replace and renew themselves every seven years. For anyone slightly set in their ways, displaying any injuries or saying no to anything, they were told to train their mind, muscles and body and ignore the limits of now. By pushing through it, working hard and giving it time, they would succeed if they tried. Seven years of work on your physical and mental self and it would be a whole new you.

He was teaching us to be fearless no matter what obstacles we put in our way. We limit ourselves believing what others have told us, to play safe and conform.

In truth, physiologically speaking – there are some parts of your body that do not regenerate you have what you are born with, but mostly our bodies do renew and seven years is given as the average lifespan of this renewal. Vanity wise, it won’t leave us looking like Benjamin Button but belief in the power of this cellular rebirth gives a sense of anything is possible.

Throughout time and space we’ve seen a love affair grow with the number seven through legend, magic, myth and religion. The beginning of time with creation on the seventh day, the seven wonders of the world, seven deadly sins, seven colours of the rainbow, seven notes on a musical scale, seven seas, seven continents the list goes on and on. The mystical and lucky number seven has created a sense of power and

'Throughout time and space we’ve seen a love affair grow with the number seven through legend, magic, myth and religion.

The beginning of time with creation on the seventh day, the seven wonders of the world, seven deadly sins, seven colours of the rainbow, seven notes on a musical scale, seven seas, seven continents' 48

fortune since ancient times, but surely rational thinking of a binary number is only as credible as superstitions?

Soul singer, Mica Paris, told me last year, that she felt her career had worked on an axis of seven year cycles, the up and down escalator of the entertainment industry often a yo-yo at best.

She felt her career across the decades had been peaks and troughs with a seven-year cycle of career highs. Bringing that back to the idea of my dance teacher and the body renewing itself, seven years feels an awfully long time to wait if you’re having a pretty bad run of luck. I think the point is that change is possible within that seven-year axis and that period can bea focus for goals and change. You only have to look at the theory behind the seven-year itch in relationships to see when it’s time to move on to pastures new.

I’ve often thought of my life like the chapters of a book. I read so many autobiographies that I just automatically divide whole chunks of my life into chapters anyway. I tend to get itchy feet, keen to move on to the next experience, relationship, location, career and it’s easy to be pulled along.

When you are young, it seems you have an endless life stretched out in front. But in a blink of an eye you could find yourself thinking your best years are behind you. I believe that living within a seven-year cycle helps focus on you want from life.

For me, I think it comes from being an endless list maker, living for crossing things off, getting stuff done, taking on too much. The pleasure comes from the satisfaction of completion, but also the juggling, which drives you to the next place. Making a dramatic change every seven years, in-keeping with the cell renewal of your physical and mental self, makes your life goal orientated.

I think creatives find this journey easy. The longevity of an artist, in whatever field, finds the idea of reinvention and rebirth exciting and needed. Similar to Doctor Who, the metamorphosis into something else is a necessary part of the creative process and for any career longevity, it’s essential. Madonna recently said that ‘the most controversial thing she’s done is stick around’ and that’s more true now than it’s ever been.

In a world where people are treated as disposable commodities it’s more important than ever to find a way of changing, shape-shifting for new experiences, adventures, challenges in your career and personal life. Win, succeed, learn from it and move onto the next adventure. IH Iain Hoskins is playing Jack Stapleton in Hounds of the Baskervilles at the Stoke Rep Theatre 31stJuly-4thAugust i: @united_theatre

The Essential Journal | Issue 34

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Issue 34 | The Essential Journal

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Column

Gents, we need to talk about:

Women's Football In the twelfth instalment of our regular column - in which we use our pondering skills to delve deep into cliches, stereotypes, and seemingly unimportant male-orientated issues - we consider women’s football, a sport we should be pouring equal support into

words by Davey BRETT

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his season I have been to the same amount of men’s and women’s football away days - two each. The men’s games (I’m a West Bromwich Albion fan) were both low-scoring draws. The women’s games however were far more exciting.

West Ham Ladies (my adopted team) away at Hull City, a three-nil win in the semi-final of the WPL Plate and then the final itself, a five-nil drumming of Luton Town Ladies. Needless to say, the best attacking football I have seen this season in a stadium setting has been courtesy of the ladies.

If you haven’t made it to a women’s game yet, I think you’d be surprised. My introduction to women’s football came through a friend in the coaching set up at West Ham Ladies. He said I should come and watch a game, so I did, driving across the country in blizzard conditions to a pitch at the University of Hull. The setup was modest, a few spectators gathered behind the dugouts, a lady at a table making sure people bought a ticket, but the football itself was impressive.

I’m not sure what your perception of women’s football is, but I think the quality would surprise the unfamiliar. There’s a lot of tedious comparisons to be made between the men’s and women’s game that I’m not going to make here (that always fail to consider the historical development of both sports), but overall the quality is of a high standard. And maybe due to suspect goalkeeping, every game I have seen live so far has been punctuated by someone scoring an absolute worldie, top bins.

I enjoy the men’s and women’s game for different reasons. I enjoy the tradition of the men’s game. As author Irvine Welsh put it (in issue 32 of this magazine), he prefers football to be a ‘horrible industrial laddish pursuit’, an

'Of course, money will play a defining issue in how women’s football advances. It seems madness that until they announced one over recent weeks, Manchester United hadn’t had a ladies team for thirteen years (a period of time that saw the men’s team win five league titles, five domestic cups and one champions league)' 50

image of football at odds with US Soccer, which he was being questioned about. I feel the same.

I enjoy the cinematic, probably outdated and undoubtedly masculine side of the game.

Women’s football is not like that and that’s why I find it refreshing. It feels exciting and new, the start of something. The style of play (at West Ham at least) isn’t safe. People compare it to the lower tier of men’s football, but it’s not as lumpen and slow. There’s end to end attacking intent, just like there would be if we were to reset the men’s game without the influence of money. The football would be braver.

Of course, money will play a defining issue in how women’s football advances. It seems madness that until they announced one over recent weeks, Manchester United hadn’t had a ladies team for thirteen years (a period of time that saw the men’s team win five league titles, five domestic cups and one champions league). Meanwhile, Sunderland ladies, a team that produced seven of the current England ladies squad, face a damaging divorce from the men’s club, initiated by the latter’s financial meltdown.

There’s a lot of good in the women’s game too. Not to say there isn’t in the men’s, but it’s often overshadowed by lingering themes of greed, prejudice and violence. The lingering theme of women’s football internationally is liberation and overcoming. Carson Pickett, Orlando Pride’s left-back is a female professional footballer born without a forearm and hand. Despite her disability, she’s at the forefront of US soccer. Hajra Khan, the captain of the Pakistan women’s team is a beacon of progress and equality in the face of one the world’s most oppressive countries for women. Afghanistan captain Shabnam Mobarez is another inspiration.

That’s not to say women’s football is perfect.

Next year’s league shake-up – which has seen new and current women’s teams applying for places in a new look top two tiers – has been controversial, with fans and pundits questioning transparency.

With the game still in its early stages though, the reconfiguring is understandable. Regardless, next season will be one of the most exciting years in domestic women’s football. The WSL starts on September 8 and if you’re a football fan - there’s no excuses. DB

The Essential Journal | Issue 34

Issue 34 | The Essential Journal

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