The Essential Journal - Issue 39

style

drinking

interview

LIFESTYLE

dining

Pendleton and their classic Westerley Sweater

Testing out a few theatrically enhanced cocktails

A Brit-Pop art director and some quintessential 90’s tales

150 years of engineered superiority

Inviting a look at our personal food market favourites

page 13

page 40

page 16

page 29

page 43

I n

p u r s u i t

o f

a

q u a l i t y

l i f e s t y l e

www.essentialjournal.co.uk

I s s u e

38

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Features

Contents Middle Eight

8

THE PRIMER A rundown of the places we’ve been, the whiskies we've mixed and the exhibitions we've visited this month

10 TALKING SHOP: POCKETS We speak to the guys at Pocket’s flagship store about the art of making a new customer comfortable 13

ONE THING DONE WELL: PENDLETON WOOLEN MILLS Our series of brands doing one item of clothing especially well continues with the Pendleton Westerley Sweater

16 MUSIC HISTORY IN THE MAKING We catch up with art director, Brian Cannon and photographer, Francesco Mellina, to discuss music in the North

14

19 A RIGHT ROYAL WARDROBE Expertly British tailored pieces fit for a dutch or dutchess, with their latest collection inspired by The Crown

TAKE THE TRIP, ENJOY THE RIDE

20 TESSUTI: A RETROSPECTIVE A look back at the Tessuti x Joe Shutter ‘For the Pioneers’ campaign

We sit down with Russ Gator and Daniel Savory of TSPTR to get their thoughts on integrity, compromise, and the world's most famous cartoon beagle

29 THEY SAID IT WOULD NEVER WORK A celebratory look at the 150th year of IWC 30 READY FOR BATTLE We discuss the power of the cardigan and its place in modern day fashion 31

TAILORED THOUGHTS ON: DRESSING FOR WINTER Huntsman cutter and resident tailoring columnist, Matthew Gonzalez takes us through the fits, fabrics and potential failings of Christmas dressing

31

A CUT ABOVE This month Ian Harrold considers the all-encompassing appeal of American Crew's Acumen range

32 A HANDSOME HOTEL: POWERSCOURT HOTEL A look at the five-star hotel with incredible views

40

DRINKING WITH: ZETTER TOWNHOUSE We take a look at the independentlyowned London boutique hotels that boast eccentricity, lavishness and odd ball theatricality

35 PUTTING LIVERPOOL ON THE MAP Elliot Group’s love letter to the city, and a lesson on sound business

21 partner content

OLIVER SWEENEY The classic shoemakers on their quest for timeless silhouettes and quality materials

36 HOW TO CHRISTMAS À LA FRANÇAISE WITH LILLET We are looking forward to the festive period with France’s finest wine-based aperitif 39 HIGH SPIRITS A month’s worth of comings and goings in the world of The Whisky Exchange 43 MARKET THIS This month we discussed the food market's rise to popularity and we pick out our favourites from around the UK 46 BOOKS FOR THE MONTH AHEAD From a post-war design mogul to the most celebrated photographer of our time, this is what you should be reading in the coming months ahead

Online web www.essentialjournal.co.uk @essentialjournal

CONTRIBUTORS Brian Cannon Daniel Savory Elliott Lawless Francesco Mellina Guy Mazuch Ian Harrold Liz Lock Matthew Gonzalez Miles Kenney Oliver Sweeney Paul Platt Ralph Cains Russ Gator

PUBLISHERS Singleton Publishing EDITOR Will Halbert w.halbert@singletonpublishing.co.uk CREATIVE DIRECTOR Thomas Sumner t.sumner@singletonpublishing.co.uk LEAD DESIGNER Jennifer Swaby STAFF WRITER Reece Feeney FRONT COVER Apollo 10 astronauts photographed by SSPL/Getty Images

Issue 39 | The Essential Journal

@essentialjournal @TEJOURNAL

PARTNERSHIP MANAGER Lara Poynor l.poynor@singletonpublishing.co.uk For all advertising enquiries please contact: sales@essentialjournal.co.uk For all other enquiries including guest editorial and feature opportunities please contact: info@essentialjournal.co.uk

TERMS & CONDITIONS Under no circumstances must any part of this publication be reproduced without prior permission to the publisher. Whilst every effort is taken, the publisher shall not be held responsible for any errors.

Furthermore, the publisher shall not be held responsible for any advertising material/content. Please also note that the views and opinions written within this publication do not necessarily represent the views and opinions of the publisher. All prices and details stated within this publication are correct at the time of print, however these are subject to change and the publisher shall not be held responsible for these. Third party contributions own exclusive copyright to their own material that they have submitted as part of the publication. All rights reserved.

5

THE PRIMER

'Happiness is a warm puppy.'

– charles m. schulz

Who we’ve been Visiting SOMERSET HOUSE EXHIBITION: GOOD GRIEF, CHARLIE BROWN! To say that Charles M. Schultz’ Peanuts comics were a cultural icon is an understatement: Over the nearly 50 years that Peanuts was published, Schulz drew almost 18,000 strips that were published daily in 2,600 papers across 75 countries in 21 languages. The latest exhibition at London’s Somerset House combines Charles M. Schulz’ original Peanuts cartoons with work from a wide range of contemporary artists and designers who, like TSPTR (also featured this issue), have found inspiration in the much-loved cartoon characters. The exhibition is a heartfelt homage to the enduring warmth and wisdom of Schultz’ most recognisable characters.

Good Grief, Charlie Brown! Will run from the 25 Oct 2018 to 3 Mar 2019

A note from

While I can

the editor

personally

What we’ve been learning CHIVAS WHISKY BLENDING AT THE ROYAL INSTITUTION

attest to the fuzzy little stress-sponges that our four-legged, canine companions can come to be, neither myself nor Schultz are suggesting that you go out and buy or steal one.

Good Grief, Charlie Brown! Celebrating Snoopy and the Enduring Power of Peanuts at Somerset House. | © Image, Tim Bowditch

It’s safe to say that we like our whisky here at The Essential Journal. So to join Chivas Regal at Liverpool’s very own Royal Institution for an evening of blending was a no-brainer. Following a wee tasting session from Chivas’ brand ambassador, Paul Nealon, we were then given the chance to create our own bespoke blend to take home with us.

The evening not only provided a great dram in even better company, but also gave us a greater understanding of the passion and craftsmanship that goes into each and every bottle of Scotland’s finest blend.

Rather, Schulz is trying to tell us that, above all, happiness lies in the little things. Here at The Essential Journal, we’re inclined to agree. In fact, we kind of make a big deal of the little details.

This issue is no different: From the minute detailing of a hand-tattooed shoe, to the cultural significance of one tiny cartoon beagle.

From the finer details of The Dude’s own cardigan, to the cocktail comforts of London’s daintiest boutique

where we've been staying LA MAISON HINE, JARNAC

hotel. We’ve compiled a small

impression. So sit back, relax,

WEAVER'S DOOR X NUDIE JEANS X

MOBILE REPAIR STATION FREE DENIM REPAIRS

and enjoy. And should the occasion arise, go pet a warm puppy.

Will HABLERT Editor 8

SNOOPY AND THE ASTRONAUTS

who's been getting into our pants

compendium of the little things that often leave a big

the primer image

This month, our Editor in Chief had the honour of staying at the family-owned house of Hine, France, for a vine-to-bottle exploration of Cognac. Founded in 1763, Hine has made quite the name for itself as one of France’s most forward-thinking Cognac producers. The house’s penchant for experimentation within Cognac’s strict traditions keeps it feeling surprisingly young for its 250 years. From its single estate, Grand Champagne expression, to its delicate-yet-intricate, Fine Champagne blends, each and every bottle of Hine is both a nod to the house’s rich terroir and a celebration of its immense heritage. Expect more on this in the months to come.

THE NAKED TRUTH ABOUT DENIM

As part of the label’s 2018 repair tour, Swedish denim specialists, Nudie Jeans, headed to Liverpool on Friday 16th & Saturday 17th of November. For the first time in the North West, Nudie affectionados (ourselves included) had the chance to bring their previous-season, battered and bruised Nudies over to menswear store, Weavers Door for a little TLC. Located on Harrington Street, Weavers Door made a little room for Nudie’s mobile repair station, giving all denim heads (again, ourselves included) a chance to dust off their moth eaten jeans and bring them down to be patched up.

And the fun didn’t stop there: Nudie Jeans Co. and Weavers Door went on to host an after party over at ‘Aerie’: A new project in the loft space above Buyers Club. Free denim repairs, a couple of beers and great music: what more could we have asked for?

Weavers Door, Cavern Walks, 1 Harrington St, Liverpool L2 6RE

Apollo 10 was the fourth manned mission in the United States Apollo space program, and the second to orbit the Moon. Its success enabled the first landing to be attempted on the Apollo 11 mission just two months later.

Already famous for his fantasies of taking on the Red Baron in aerial combat, Snoopy swapped the flying goggles for the space helmet to become NASA’s official mascot.

The flight modules took on the names of Peanuts characters, with Charlie Brown as the Command Service Module, and Snoopy as the Lunar Module.

Pictured here are the crew of Apollo 10 petting Snoopy’s nose for luck before launch.

The Essential Journal | Issue 39

NASA, A touch of Luck. 1969, Image courtesy of NASA

THE IMAGE

Issue 39 | The Essential Journal

9

PARTNER CONTENT

Talking Shop:

Pockets

In the fifth part of our regular series, in which we chat

to the folks in charge of our favourite menswear stores, we speak to the guys at Pockets' flagship store words by Will HALBERT

L

ocated in the heart of the historic market town of Shrewsbury, Pockets' flagship store boasts five floors of premium designer apparel.

From Italian heavy-hitters like Stone Island, Moncler & Canali, to streetwear kings, Y-3 (not to mention British heritage mainstays, Crockett & Jones and Paul Smith), Pockets have become a dab hand at balancing streetwear chic with understated sophistication. We sat down with Pockets founder, Paul Platt, to discuss recent trends, the Shrewsbury fashion scene, and putting an age on style. EJ Tell us a little bit about yourselves and the shop.

Here at Pockets, we love fashion and we’re passionate about our stores. 24 years and five stores later and this enthusiasm has only grown. We love serving our customers and making them feel special from the moment they walk in the door, even if it’s just for a little browse of the wares we have on offer.

What sort of brands do you stock?

What can customers coming into the store expect?

Oh, we have such a vast range of brands and styles: Moncler, Stone Island, Acne Studios, Dries Van Noten, Paul Smith, you name it.

There’s a light theme running through our selections, but there’s also enough scope and choice for any style-conscious individual.

Here at the Shrewsbury store, our customers can expect to see a beautifully-merchandised collection of these brands over five unique floors.

Any personal favorite brand picks from your staff?

A personal favourite at Pockets has to be Dries Van Noten, his use of some pretty luxurious fabrics and out-there prints and patterns make the brand a firm favourite with customers too. And, of course, there’s Stone Island. Another staff favourite that can really do nothing

10

wrong. Their stuff is always a great combination of high-spec and urban cool.

Would you say that Pockets has a particular type of customer?

Absolutely: Anyone of any age who loves fashion, style and quality. We could go on about having a particular customer in mind, but we like to keep ourselves approachable to all walks of life. Pockets is a space to satisfy that fashion-conscious itch without ever having to worry about pigeonholing yourself.

What is the retail scene like in Shrewsbury? What sets you apart?

Shrewsbury is a small but beautiful, historic little town on the border of Wales, but it’s lucky enough to have a great selection of independent businesses. We’re very proud to be considered a part of such a rich and rewarding little group. That said, what really sets Pockets apart is our five floors set in the very heart of the town square.

What’s the age range of your customers?

We don’t really put an age on anything, to be honest. What is it they say? Fashion fades but style endures? I think that’s a great ethos to live by.

Say a guy walks in and he’s new to the Pockets style of dress; how do you guide him? What are the essentials?

We always think that making a new customer comfortable at Pockets is the best place to start. We try to get to know them and the kind of lifestyle they lead and what they like. From there we start to build a wardrobe that is right for them.

After time the customer trusts us and will then be more willing to try something different.

Personally, do you have any key style moments or influences? Are there any watershed moments?

We love the Italians. They never fail to inspire when we go to the shows and buying trips. Just the regular The Essential Journal | Issue 39

PARTNER CONTENT

Stop by the Shrewsbury store to check out some of Pockets’ top picks for the season ahead MONCLER GENIUS PROJECT 2 'APREMONT' HOODED DOWN JACKET

Moncler's 'Genius Project 2' range sees the ever-popular French-born brand reinterpreting their trademark classics with pop colourways, and it doesn't get much more classic than this 'Apremont' down jacket. The down-filled panels give the garment a classic skijacket silhouette and an all-weather functionality that sees Moncler transcend its mountaineering roots to become a firm streetwear favourite.

STONE ISLAND DYNEEMA® BONDED LEATHER ICE JACKET

"There's a light theme running through our selections, but there's also enough scope and choice for any style-conscious individual." chap on the street - young or old has a great style. They just make everything look so effortless, maybe that’s why the Italian brands that we stock are so popular: they tap into that effortless Italian elegance.

What trends do you see shining through at the moment?

Sportswear is obviously key right now. But we’re also looking at an upsurge in long overcoats, interesting trousers and sneakers.

Silhouettes have changed a lot over the last year or so, with people experimenting with wider fits and boxier looks.

How does the store fit in with the style scene in Shrewsbury?

After 24 years, Pockets has become so well-known in the town and surrounding areas. So I guess we’d like to think we are doing our bit to improve the whole town’s style in some way! That’s the great thing about this industry: Everyone pushes everyone else. We all benefit from that kind of environment.

Pockets, 7A The Square, Shrewsbury, Shropshire, SY1 1LA Issue 39 | The Essential Journal

Easy-wearing luxury meets cold, hard science with Stone Island’s first ever heat-sensitive leather jacket.

Luxurious leather is bonded to a base DYNEEMA® layer, the world's strongest fibre, creating a highly structured piece that remains surprisingly lightweight.

This material has been treated with a thermosensitive agent that holds microencapsulated pigment molecules, causing the outer to change colour from stone to black as the temperature drops. Fashionably utilitarian and undeniably cool.

PAUL SMITH STRIPED WOOL & MOHAIR KNIT

This luxurious wool knit from Paul Smith - the undisputed master of vibrant multi-coloured stripes - is defined by the contrast between the navy base colour and the abstract striped pattern in mohair across the chest, back and along the sleeves.

Pair this update of a cosy classic with washed jeans and boots to create an indie-inspired casual look.

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PARTNER CONTENT

55 Jermyn Street, London, SW1Y 6LX

|

24 Brook Street, London, W1K 5DG

www.johnsmedley.com 12

The Essential Journal | Issue 39

no.

16 Pendleton Woolen Mills One Thing Done Well

Our series of brands doing one item especially well continues this month with the Pendleton Westerley Sweater words by Will HALBERT

Image credit: Brandon Burk Photography

I

n the summer of 1998, Hollywood heavyhitters, Joel and Ethan Coen, followed up on the success of their darkly comedic Fargo with cult classic in the making, The Big Lebowski. Whatever The Big Lebowski set out to be or do, it struck an awkward chord with audiences. What was it? A comedy? A farce?

A manifesto for dudeist philosophy? Nobody really knew. It confused as much as it entertained; it beguiled as much as it divided. But over the course of two decades, The Big Lebowski not only endured, it positively thrived.

In many ways, the film itself is a fitting metaphor of the humble cardigan. Despite its warmth, virtuosity and charm, the cardigan has always been the marmite of the woolenwear sector. It’s an understandable dilemma: One wrong move and the wearer slips from the loftybut-laid-back sophistication of Mad Men’s Don Draper to the oversized, clumsy frumpiness of Friends’ Chandler Bing. But love it or hate it, you can’t deny the cardigan’s enduring presence.

And no cardigan has endured quite like Pendleton’s Westerley Sweater. First released

by Pendleton Woolen Mills in 1974 and inspired by the hand-knit Cowichan sweaters of Pacific Northwest tribes, the Westerley is a sweater of singular providence and pedigree. As a matter of fact, Jeff Bridges himself insisted on wearing his own Westerley throughout the shooting of the Coen Brothers’ misunderstood masterpiece.

The dude abides, then. And it’s easy to see why: The Pendleton Westerley is, above all, a casual cardigan taken very, very seriously indeed.

It’s latest, 2018 iteration is a love letter to classic cardigan craftsmanship. Boasting a hefty 3gg, 100% lambswool construction, the Westerley is heavy enough to stand alone as a solid outer layer.

In Pendleton’s own words: ‘You could wear it in a monsoon, and you’d still stay warm.’ The smaller touches, such as the oversized ring-zipper pull and tan pattern have been meticulously recreated from Pendleton’s archives.

It’s these smaller details that serve to remind us that the Westerley Sweater has a heritage that far predates its cinematic debut. With six generations of family ownership, Pendleton has spent the last 155 years weaving superior fabrics in the heart of the Pacific Northwest. Since 1863, Pendleton Woolen Mills have made quite the name for themselves by producing superlative woolenwear that inspires and innovates in equal measure. As a result, the Pendleton Westerley not only serves as a benchmark in timeless Americana charm, but also stands as a loud-and-clear defence of the classic cool of the cardigan. But, you know, that’s just like, our opinion, man. EJ pendletonwoolenmills.co.uk Issue 39 | The Essential Journal

13

STYLE

Take the Trip, Enjoy the Ride We sit down with Russ Gator and Daniel Savory of heritage brand, TSPTR to get their thoughts on integrity, compromise, and the world’s most famous cartoon beagle words by Will HALBERT

‘I

’m not quite sure when we started to feel like a brand, but it all started to feel very real when Nike sued us,’ jokes Daniel Savory of TSPTR. It’s a candid response to a throwaway question, but one that’s very much in line with the brand’s general attitude towards the industry. Historically-driven and subversive by nature, TSPTR have made quite the name for themselves by merging a lofty sense of cultural heritage with an uncompromising design ethos.

It’s an attitude that goes a long way to explaining the brand’s name.

TSPTR serves as an acronym for Truth, Symmetry, Pleasure, Taste and Recognition. ‘They’re the five design principles of American modernist and architect, Louis Sullivan,’ explains Russ Gator. ‘He was the father of skyscrapers, and a firm believer in the idea that form follows function. We’re inclined to agree.’ For TSPTR, it’s clear that function boils down to a garment’s ability to tell a story. Narrative and context are paramount, and TSPTR have both in spades.

But we’re getting ahead of ourselves a little: For a fuller picture of what TSPTR really stands for, we have to rewind an hour or so; to before we sat down with Russ and Dan on the leather sofas of Somerset House’s spacious lobby. We have to start at the beginning; to eagerly following Russ back and forth along the galleries of Somerset House’s latest exhibition: Good Grief, Charlie Brown!

The ongoing exhibition aims to bring together Charles M. Schulz’ original Peanuts cartoons with work from a wide range of contemporary

14

artists and designers who, like TSPTR, have found inspiration in the much-loved cartoon characters. Over the past few years TSPTR have dedicated themselves to merging design with visual storytelling. United by mutually creative backgrounds and a shared appreciation of vintage clothing, both Russ and Dan draw inspiration from a melting pot of cultural signposts to create a common aesthetic and a clear message.

Schultz's Peanuts comic strip is one such cultural signpost.

To attend Russ’ talk was to dive head first into a vast ocean of cultural theory: ‘Aesthetics are important for any brand, but the cultural and historical narratives behind them are what really matter.’

In that sense, there’s a serious and significant philosophical overlap between Schultz’ work and that of TSPTR. As Russ explains: ‘Schultz was, first and foremost, an artist. But he was also the man behind the most heavily syndicated characters in history. Peanuts strips were printed in most US newspapers; they had the ear of the whole of the United States.

So naturally, there was a commercial aspect to Schultz' work.’

‘Obviously,’ Russ continues, ‘commercial art has its pressures; Schultz knew all too well that he was only as good as his last cartoon. It’s easy to relate to that position. But despite those pressures, Peanuts entered into the cultural lexicon like nothing else before it. And I mean that literally: Phrases like “good grief”, “security blanket” and, of course, “Happiness is…” simply would not exist without Peanuts.

Such is Schulz’ cultural impact.’

Impact is an understatement.

As Russ made clear over the course of his talk, the 60’s saw a sudden and serious politicisation of Schulz’ famous illustrated beagle, Snoopy.

‘Almost overnight,’ Russ retells, ‘Snoopy became a symbol of the military’s growing discontent and disillusion, as opposed to a mere totem of blind patriotism.’ Just as Charlie Brown and the gang became a vehicle for understated, implicit social commentary on topics like gender politics and civil rights, so too did Snoopy become the symbolic vessel for the US military’s acerbic

wit and cynical banter. Not only did Snoopy appear on a myriad of military-issue garments, vehicles, and field equipment, but he also became a presidential candidate.

No mean feat for a cartoon beagle.

‘Snoopy was such a big hit with Californian electorate,’ explains Russ, ‘that the state had to make a law against the election of fictional characters.’

In honouring the legacies of numerous subcultures and social subversions, TSPTR offers a very different take on the concept of

The Essential Journal | Issue 39

STYLE

Articles of Note A selection of stand-out pieces from TSPTR’s repertoire

TSPTR x Eastman Leather ‘Okinawa’ A2 Flight Jacket A throwback the souvenir jackets that were popular among USAF aircrews based in Japan post WWII. The hand-painted back and front artwork captures the essence of a time-aged original. The ultimate re-creation of a true vintage icon.

TSPTR x John Lofgren Footwear x Standard and Strange Hi Top PT Sneakers

"Peanuts entered into the cultural lexicon like nothing else before it.

And I mean that literally: Phrases like “good grief”, “security blanket” and, of course, “Happiness is…” simply would not exist without Peanuts. Such is Schulz’ cultural impact."

Image opposite: Peanuts 18.06.1954 (c) Peanuts Issue 39 | The Essential Journal

heritage: ‘As the many important messages of Snoopy and the gang eventually became diluted and super-commercialised, the real grit of Schultz was lost to many. That’s kind of where we, as TSPTR, come in.’ Subversive and subliminal, TSPTR’s Peanuts-inspired tee shirts, sweaters and pendants serve as a reminder of both Schultz’ socio-political engagement and the significance of just what he managed to achieve during such a pivotal moment in world history.

‘Schultz’ legacy is a testament to the idea of social commentary within one’s power. It’s about maintaining a personal sense of integrity whilst also understanding that once a product is out there, it will have different meanings to many; it will become all things to all people.’

And that brings us back to the leather sofas of the Somerset House lobby, where the conversation has drifted from Peanuts to the building of a brand. TSPTR is, first and foremost, a spectacular balancing act: Russ and Dan tread the line between the creative and

the commercial with unflinching deftness and enviable agility. More than anything, though, their brand serves as a heartfelt nod to a shared past and a passionate exploration of American counter-culture.

And these are the said same values to which the duo adhere when asked for their own advice on the building of a brand. ‘Conceive.

Build. Protect.’ Says Russ. ‘Absolute commitment is a must, obviously, as is being prepared to do it for next to nothing financially. I mean, initially, at least. Maintain integrity in what you’re doing at all times; but understand the value of compromise.’

‘And while we’re at it,’ adds Dan, ‘understand that the UK market is a fickle thing. By and large, big businesses are less likely to go out on a limb for a smaller brand, or else they’ll want to dilute the hell out of it just to make it safe. So, follow hearts, not trends. Cancel out bullshit with genuine passion. And if you’re getting sued by Nike, who knows, you’re probably on the right track.’EJ

Made in collaboration with Oakland’s very own Standard & Strange, these 1950’s style training shoes are made at one of the few remaining vulcanized footwear factories in Kurume, Japan under the supervision of the John Lofgren footwear team.

TSPTR X Peanuts Franklin ‘68 Tee

This tee shirt celebrates the introduction of Schultz’ first black character, Franklin (debuted after the assassination of Martin Luther King in 1968). The tee marks both a milestone in civil rights history and honours a pivotal moment in Schultz’ career.

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STYLE

Music History in the Making Hot on the heels of their collaborations with Ben Sherman, we catch up with legendary art director, Brian Cannon and photographer, Francesco Mellina, to talk about the Ben Sherman legacy and the North’s enduring musical heritage interviews by Will HALBERT & Reece FEENEY photography by Thomas SUMNER

Brian Cannon The man behind some of the most iconic 90’s album covers in British music history talks us through his rise to fame When did the idea for Microdot Creative first come about and what were the main challenges back then?

It was something I’d wanted to do ever since I got into music and art and all the rest of it back as a youngster. A career in art or design was harder to justify back then though. I don’t know if that was just a northern thing, but it just didn’t seem like a viable career path back then. As soon as you said you wanted to be an artist or graphic designer you’d get a lot of funny looks, like you just hadn't made your mind up on a career just yet.

Did you have any particular inspirations back then?

I mean I don’t think I was ever too aware of influences getting started, I was always looking to do my own thing. But one particular album that sticks in my mind as a youngster was The Sex Pistols’ Never Mind the B*llocks album. It’s not just the album, that left an impression, it also happens to be one of my favourite pieces of album art.

What was art school like?

If I’m honest the course was pretty rubbish. I wasn’t challenged by the whole cookie-cutter approach to design. It just wasn’t in line with the style I was trying to develop for myself. I had my own idea of what that was already. I wanted to make album sleeves, I knew that much, and that wasn’t really in line with what art school wanted. One of the first weeks there we had to create a piece and they pulled mine out as an example of what not to do. So that said it all really.

How did you meet Richard Ashcroft?

Bit of an odd one this: I first met Richard in a house party in Wigan before The Verve were even signed.

After that, two years go by without me hearing anything from him whatsoever. Then one night I nip to the shops because I’ve ran out of milk and I want a cuppa. As I’m leaving the shop I see a gangly fellow pull up and step out of his car. We look at each other, he goes ‘you’re that album sleeve guy!’ I go ‘you’re that fella in that band!’ Then he tells me that The Verve have just been signed and I’ve got the cover gig if I want it. The rest is history. I don’t think I ever made that cuppa in the end, either.

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And what about Noel Gallagher?

Same thing again! It’s ‘91 or ‘92 and I’m in a lift in someplace in Manchester. Some fella walks in and the first thing he asks is ‘where did you get them trainers from?’ I actually got them from Rome, I’d taken my mother there for her 60th birthday.

I’ve still got the trainers now, actually. But yeah, that’s how I met Noel Gallagher, and after a quick chat going about two floors up, I told him about designing album sleeves for The Verve, he said ‘I like them, when we get signed you can do ours’ and I did. You can’t write this stuff.

How did the Ben Sherman collaboration come about?

The collaboration with Ben Sherman came about after they reached out to me to do a collaboration with them with some Northern soul shots on t-shirts, which I thought was a great concept. The work I’d been doing on Northern Soul stuff resonates with their history and heritage so well that is would have been silly to pass up on the chance to work together.

Plus I’ve always had a bit of a passion for good clobber so it all made sense, really.

The Essential Journal | Issue 39

STYLE

Francesco Mellina The Italian-born honorary scouser recounts his days of in-the-thick-ofit photography Who would you say was your biggest influence growing up?

There are a fair few, to be honest!

I mean, it’s no exaggeration to say that, as a boy, I learned English by listening to The Beatles. It was their music that ultimately brought me to Liverpool. In terms of photography, Don McCullin was a huge inspiration. He captured some truly moving and magnificent shots thanks to his willingness to really get into the thick of things. I always wanted to follow a similar path, but I guess the concert crowds and gig halls became my battlefield, in a way. If I’m honest, I’m sure Vietnam would have scared the life out of me!

Is that why it was so important for you to really get up close and personal with bands and audiences at these gigs?

Oh yeah, of course. It’s the only honest way to capture moments like I did. I was so lucky: I was in such a privileged position to get so close to bands that have gone on to do some amazing things. From The Ramones to The Clash, to Talking Heads, not to mention Liverpool’s own Dead or Alive - who I went on to manage the 70s and 80s were a great time for music, and I was lucky enough to be at the centre of it.

Was it a challenge?

Oh you bet. Photojournalism was a very different business back then!

Right after a gig I’d have to rush home to develop what I’d captured that night. Then I’d have to be at Lime Street Station at the crack of dawn to make sure I got copies of my work on the courier trains to London. It was a tough gig, but I enjoyed the challenge. Getting regular work from the likes of NME wasn’t easy either. It was a case of just turning up unannounced and hoping that they liked what you had to offer.

Tell us a little about your book, Revealed: Youth Culture, Pop Culture, Subculture.

It’s a collection of my work from the late 70s and early 80s, back when I was wading through crowds and practically getting on stage with the bands the take their photos. It’s not all about the bands though, it was important for me to represent the crowds at these shows, too. The crowds were always the energy.

Issue 39 | The Essential Journal

"I'd have to be at Lime Street Station at the crack of dawn to make sure I got copies of my work on the courier trains to London."

If you didn’t have a crowd it didn’t matter who played. Any venue has the potential to be great, it’s the people that ultimately make it so. And especially in Liverpool, you know?

I was lucky enough to witness a very special time in Liverpool’s cultural history. Politically we were in the shit, but as you can see, we were having a ball.

What was it like working with Ben Sherman?

It was amazing. It really helped that they understood my work too. They understood what I was trying to

convey: the importance of musical heritage, cultural roots and social context. I guess it’s no surprise that they’d appreciate those qualities. I mean, Ben Sherman has represented the North’s most vivid and vibrant musical subcultures for 50 years, so it shouldn't come as much of a surprise. But it was great to be involved.

Revealed: Youth Culture, Pop Culture, Subculture, is out now.

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STYLE

A Right Royal Wardrobe Royal outfitters Hawes & Curtis’ latest collection of The Crown-inspired pieces drives home their royal foundations and regal standing words by Ralph CANIS

Image credit: Courtesy of Hawes & Curtis

K

nown to the royal-blooded and the elegantly-minded alike, Hawes & Curtis is a quintessentially British brand that specialises in fine tailoring for both men and women.

Founded in 1913 by Ralph Hawes and George Frederick Curtis, the brand is built on the promises of quality, innovation and value.

It is, no doubt, in the century-long tradition of keeping these promises that Hawes & Curtis has not only become a bastion of timeless British style, but has also garnered four Royal Warrants in the process. And what better way to testify to this timelessness and royal tenure than by curating a capsule collection inspired by the The Crown: Season 2? After all, both Hawes & Curtis and The Crown set themselves apart with their eye for detail, their hunger for history, and their passion for visual storytelling.

As with the show itself, the latest collection from Hawes & Curtis offers an open invitation to explore the history and heritage of fine British style. From the sumptuous satin blouses and lavish pussy bows of the women's collection, to the tailored suits and classic tweeds of the menswear capsule, both lines revel in their inspired regality. Both collections also find common ground in superior shirting, with the brand’s signature high-collared, cotton women's shirts and Jermyn Street men’s shirts representing stand-out, hero pieces.

With a mutual taste for visual flare and strong historical foundations, both the capsule collection and The Crown have become the pen and the paper, the paint and the parchment, that have recast the unwavering sartorial grace of the Royal Family for the homes and hearts of the contemporary wearer. EJ Issue 39 | The Essential Journal

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STYLE

Tessuti: A Retrospective

We take a look back at the Tessuti x Joe Shutter ‘For the Pioneers’ campaign words by Will HALBERT photography by Thomas SUMNER

H

osted by The Essential Journal, a select audience filled Tessuti’s beautiful new threefloor Chester store for an evening of adventure and true audio visual splendour. Those in attendance were not only lucky enough to peruse Tessuti’s latest autumn/winter collections, but were also able to feast their eyes on the awe-inspiring photography of creative entrepreneur and intrepid adventurer, Joe Shutter. An Iceland-based creative with both an eye for photography and a taste for the great outdoors, Joe Shutter proved to be the perfect fit for Tessuti’s 'For the Pioneers' campaign.

And how could he not be? After all, the rolling tundras and stunning vistas of Joe’s photography are already a perfect visual metaphor for the elegant style and rugged durability of Tessuti’s autumn/ winter campaign: From Italian maestros of military-inspired outerwear, Parajumpers, to Toronto-born expedition-ready giants, Canada Goose.

Fashion enthusiasts and photography-lovers alike were joined in celebration of both Shutter’s work and Tessuti’s latest collection which culminated in a live Q&A with Shutter himself. Featuring behind-the-scenes vlogs from the Tessuti shoot in Reykjavik, and a never-before-seen 'For the Pioneers' campaign video, the talk offered a unique glimpse into both Shutter’s creative process and Tessuti’s fashion philosophy. And with further audible delights from the fine folks at Melodic Distraction, not to mention a little single-pot sophistication from Red Breast Irish Whisky, those in attendance were able to raise a glass (or two) to the perfect marriage of visual artistry and premium designer fashion. EJ See Tessuti's latest collections at tessuti.co.uk or in stores nationwide.

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The Essential Journal | Issue 39

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The

essential journal

for

OLIVER SWEENEY

OLIVER SWEENEY

Oliver Sweeney

CONTENTS

Timeless style with a modern twist

THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO

2 An introduction to Oliver Sweeney 3 A look at the autumn/winter 2018 Collection 5 What sets Oliver Sweeney strides ahead?

6 Welcome to Oliver Sweeney Manchester 7 Meet the Leeds Oliver Sweeney Team 8 As good as new with the Oliver Sweeney resoling service

T

he Oliver Sweeney philosophy sings loud and clear in everything they do: Create classic, timeless styles with a modern twist and work with the best shoemakers and finests materials in the world to bring those styles to life. It’s a simple philosophy, but it’s one that has carried Oliver Sweeney from

strength to strength for almost three decades.

The rich history, enduring passion and peerless knowhow of the maverick

shoe-maker, Oliver Sweeney, is woven into everything the company produce.

But the brand aren’t content with simply resting on the former glory of the man himself: Oliver Sweeney is a company with a firm belief in never standing still. Over the years, Oliver Sweeney has prided itself on its capacity to constantly evolve. As a result, they have become one of the all-too-rare shoe-makers to have mastered the art of combining classic shoe-making techniques with 21st century technology and innovation.

Better yet, they’ve made some real friends along the way. Their collaborative spirit has seen them work together with leading whisky distillers and pioneering selvedge denim producers. It’s clear that their unwavering commitment to their philosophy has made them both a beacon for fellow innovators and a lasting embodiment of greatness from humble beginnings.

www.oliversweeney.com

The rich history, enduring passion and peerless knowhow of the maverick shoemaker, Oliver Sweeney, is woven into everything the company produce.

The

essential journal

for

OLIVER SWEENEY | 3

Hand-finished Flourish Oliver Sweeney’s latest autumn collection is a leather-clad ode to their passion for progress

N

ot only does Oliver Sweeney’s new collection boast an enviable scope and range - from Goodyear-welted and hand-antiquated brogues, to blake-stitched, double monk strapped boots - but each and every shoe is hand-finished.

With a firm focus on two traditional shoe-making tech-

niques - hand antiquing and dip dyeing - Oliver Sweeney ensures that every pair of shoes or boots in their latest collection is as refined and unique as its wearer.

Hand antiquing (also known as the Tamponato process) is a traditional Italian way of shading leather. It’s a technique that requires skill and patience in equal measure, but ensures instant, eye-catching character fresh out of the box.

The dip dying technique is a glowing testament to Oliver Sweeney’s taste for experimentation. The shoe is made in neutral leather before being immersed completely in dye and then tumbled in large wooden drums. The result is a truly unique and lightly-distressed shoe that oozes character.

Oliver Sweeney ensures that every pair of shoes or boots in their latest collection is as refined and unique as its wearer.

4 |

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The

essential journal

for

OLIVER SWEENEY

The Essential Journal | Issue 38

The

essential journal

for

OLIVER SWEENEY | 5

To find your local Oliver Sweeney store head to oliversweeney.com/stores

Obsession is Infectious A closer look at the smaller steps that set Oliver Sweeney strides ahead LEATHER TATTOOING It’s a novel, ingenius, why-didn’t-I-think-of-that kind of idea that only the for-

Oliver Sweeney’s Tat-

ward-thinking minds at Oliver Sweeney could have come away with, but shoe

tooist-in-Chief can be

tattooing offers another clever way of turning the humble shoe into a blank

found at their Covent

canvas for some serious sartorial self-expression.

Garden store every

‘If you want to leave a lasting legacy,’ says resident Oliver Sweeney Tattoo-

Thursday, offering

ist-in-Chief, Sarah Cooper, ‘sometimes you have to make a mark.’ And she

demonstrations and

makes a good point. Using actual ink and a real tattoo gun, Sarah is able to

bespoke consultations.

add one final, hand-finished flourish to your favourite Oliver Sweeney shoes.

Alternatively, check out

From initials, to quotes, to more elaborate bespoke creations, these unique leather tattoos offer a novel twist on self expression that adds a fur-

oliversweeney.com for further details

ther touch of bespoke charm to Oliver Sweeney’s hand-finished offerings.

SHOE SHINE It’s so easy to get lost in the artistry and elegance of a pair of Sweeneys that

If your shoes are

you’d be forgiven for forgetting that each pair is also an investment. Luckily,

in need of a little

Oliver Sweeney’s Covent Garden, Marylebone and Manchester stores are on

spruce, pop by Oliver

hand to ensure that your shoes remain sharp and shined for every step of

Sweeney’s Covent

their long journey.

Garden, Marylebone

All three stores are happy to offer a drop in, while-you-wait, pick-me-up

or Manchester stores

service. There’s even the option to leave them with the store for a more thorough clean and polish. And for those who really like to put their shoes and boots through their paces, Oliver Sweeney also offer their famed Full Monty Service to help breathe new life into punished leather.

GROOM’S CLUB It’s a well-known but rarely-uttered truth that the groom and groomsmen are

To book an

in the spotlight just as much as the bridal party.

appointment, contact

Fear not: Oliver Sweeney has you covered. All Oliver Sweeney stores offer

your local store

private appointments to help get any groom party ready for the big day.

Oliver Sweeney invites grooms and groomsmen alike to come along with their suits, sit back with a complimentary drink, and pick out the perfect pair of shoes for the occasion. Not only is Sweeney’s Shoe Tattoo service available should you want to mark the occasion, but Oliver Sweeney also offer a small discount to help celebrate tying the knot.

Issue 37 | The Essential Journal

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6 |

The

essential journal

for

OLIVER SWEENEY

Oliver Sweeney

Manchester

P

Meet the Team

erfectly placed among the hustle and bustle of Manchester’s now-iconic Spinningfields, Oliver Sweeney’s The Avenue Colin Richards, Manager

Corbin Ashworth, Sales Assistant

fashion, the concept store features

How long have you worked for Oliver Sweeney?

How long have you worked for Oliver Sweeney?

flawless, floor-to-ceiling windows

Eight years.

Two years.

and spectacular lighting, courtesy

Favourite Oliver Sweeney shoes

Favourite Oliver Sweeney shoes

of award-winning architects Urban

The whole cut styles, for example, Cornello.

Bacoli Burgundy (AW16).

Salon. Oliver Sweeney Manchester

Perfect Shoe Tattoo

Perfect Shoe Tattoo

offers up Oliver Sweeney’s mainline

My favourite tattoo, would be the names of my two

Manchester bee on the toes, ‘01’ on the back of the

and London collections, as well as a

children.

left foot and ‘61’ on the back of the right foot, so it

store was the first to open outside of London. In true Oliver Sweeney

carefully-curated selection of jackets and accessories.

reads ‘0161’ the area number for Manchester.

The

Oliver Sweeney

Leeds

T

essential journal

for

OLIVER SWEENEY | 7

Meet the Team

ucked away inside the illustrious arcades of the famous Victoria Quarter, Oliver Sweeney’s Leeds store is Mark Selvon, Manager

Dan Heighton, Sales Assistant

and traditional craftsmanship. The

How long have you worked for Oliver Sweeney?

How long have you worked for Oliver Sweeney?

arcade’s network of rich marbles,

11 years.

Three and a half years.

gilded mosaics, and polished ma-

Favourite Oliver Sweeney shoes

Favourite Oliver Sweeney shoes

hogany provide the perfect setting

Dunbeath boot.

Something from the Bologna range - Castelvecchio

for Oliver Sweeney’s classic style and

Perfect Shoe Tattoo

from AW18.

detail-forward creativity.

Paris skyline.

Perfect Shoe Tattoo

yet another beacon of the brand’s passion for contemporary design

Either the star child or the HAL 9000 computer with the quote ‘I’m afraid I can’t do that Dave’ from 2001: A Space Odyssey.

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The

essential journal

for

OLIVER SWEENEY

Oliver Sweeney Resoling Service Get your beloved Oliver Sweeney shoes repaired by their world champion cobbler

O

liver Sweeney's world champion cobbler and his team will bring your shoes back to life from their workshop in Somerset, England. Applying the same skills, techniques and attention to detail as when your shoes are first made, your shoes will be resoled and finished to the highest standards.

On arrival, their cobblers will carefully assess your shoes and then place them on their original lasts. The soles and heel are removed and then remade using their original construction and factory components.

Don’t worry, you won’t be without your favourite shoes for long. Oliver Sweeney aims to get your shoes back on your feet within four weeks.*

INSTRUCTIONS FROM OLIVER SWEENEY 1 Select the repair product & options you want 2 Add the product to your bag & checkout as normal 3 Print your order confirmation email 4 Return your shoes & the order confirmation to: Oliver Sweeney, Resoling Service Perren Street, Imperial Works Block B London NW5 3ED

Please note: All shoes are assessed prior to being forwarded onto our workshop. Unfortunately, we are unable to repair shoes that have previously been repaired by a third party. We advise against using a third party for repair as the balance, internal shape and durability of your shoes can be affected.

*whilst Oliver Sweeney always endeavour to repair your shoes as quickly as possible, during busy periods this service may take a little bit longer. They will always keep you informed of any delays.

Visit Oliver Sweeney COVENT GARDEN

CONDUIT STREET

MANCHESTER

10 Henrietta Street

5 Conduit Street

The Avenue | Spinningfields

London | WC2E 8PS

London | W1S 2XD

Manchester | M3 3HF

+44 (0) 20 7240 4549

+44 (0) 20 7491 9126

+44 (0) 161 834 0086

coventgarden@oliversweeney.com

conduit@oliversweeney.com

manchester@oliversweeney.com

LEADENHALL MARKET

MARYLEBONE

LEEDS

41-42 Bull’s Head Passage

1a Marylebone High Street

38-40 County Arcade

London | EC3V 1LT

London | W1U 4NA

Victoria Quarter | Leeds | LS1 6BH

+44 (0) 20 7621 1200

+44 (0) 20 7486 1030

+44 (0) 113 242 7864

leadenhall@oliversweeney.com

marylebone@oliversweeney.com

leeds@oliversweeney.com

www.oliversweeney.com | 0800 622 6030 |

@oliversweeney |

@OliverSweeney

Image credit: Courtesy of Jack Finnigan

STYLE

They Said it Would Never Work

Celebrating 150 years of International Watch Company’s untiring quest for engineering excellence words by Miles KENNEY

H

ow would you celebrate turning 150? Skydive, helicopter flight through the Grand Canyon, Michelin star meal perhaps? IWC Schaffhausen celebrated this year by releasing a special limited edition 29-model jubilee collection, as well as launching its first-ever wristwatch to feature the original digital hours (numbers on rotating discs, rather than hands pointing toward numerals) and minute display, just as it had appeared on the iconic Pallweber pocket watch back in 1884.

Founded in 1868 by Boston native and American watchmaking pioneer Florentine Ariosto Jones, it is Jones’ entrepreneurship and untiring quest for engineering excellence that ultimately inspired and influenced IWC’s latest celebratory release.

To toast the Swiss based specialists here in the UK, watch and jewellery partner of The Essential Journal, David M. Robinson hosted an evening of whisky and watches at Liverpool’s The Puffin Rooms. Invited guests had the opportunity to explore the Jubilee Collection that included limited-edition models from the Portugieser, Portofino, Pilot’s Watch and Da Vinci families, as well as the IWC Tribute to Pallweber Edition “150 Years”.

The revisiting of such iconic designs gave IWC the opportunity to bring them together as one striking collection through a timeless design code. Each bearing the Jubilee insignia ‘150 Years’, the watches also share a white or blue dial which is produced through a long and complex process of high-quality lacquering, polishing, brushing and imprinting influenced by the historic Pallweber watch and Portugieser model.

For more information on and to view IWC’s Jubilee Collection visit your local David M. Robinson shop or head to davidmrobinson.co.uk

Issue 39 | The Essential Journal

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STYLE

Ready for Battle We take a look at the highs of the often opinion splitting cardigan words by Reece FEENEY

T

here doesn’t seem to be much of a middle ground when it comes to the classic mid-layer. Some associate the cardigan with their grandparents, others with top heavy gym buffs, neither demographic often featuring in top tens of timeless, iconic style.

After a few individual members of the Essential Journal team found themselves discussing the buttoned knit recently with friends and readers, we thought we’d take a look at where it came from, where it has been and where it is yet to go.

As with most garments, the opinion dividing cardigan finds its roots in battle. It seems the name became popular after James Thomas Brudenell, 7th Earl of Cardigan, in the mid 19th century whilst charging the light brigade in the Crimean War, dressed his troops in knitted long sleeve shirts, buttoned down front and centre. Synonymous with flickering footage of factory workers and football goers of the very early 1900s, the cardigan was as much a wardrobe staple as the flat cap. Jump forward 20-or-so years to the roaring ‘20s and it finds itself in the more glamorous surroundings of New York and London’s cabaret bars, from then on seemingly fluttering in and out of fashion every couple of decades. Increasingly popularised in the 1950s by the modernists and ivy leaguers, and again in the 70s, this time by the mod revival, it was these subcultures that set a unique style and aesthetic that fashion designers still try to emulate today.

But it hasn’t all been vespas and jazz cafes. In the grungeridden and stoner-mellowed 90s, the cardi’ graced the shoulders of Nirvana's Kurt Cobain - oversized in green mohair, worn during their infamous MTV unplugged gig in 1993 - and the Dude’s Westerley Pendleton cardi’ worn by actor (and cover star of issue 38) Jeff Bridges in The Big Lebowski (1998).

As much as the iconic subcultures of generations past have created peaks and troughs in its popularity, ‘Made in England’ manufacturers have maintained a consistent supply, untouched by trend. John Smedley is just one example of a label that has for many decades perfected the classic shaped cardigan, giving us a season-spanning item with a much needed general sense of wearability. High end fashion houses such as Italian stallion Gucci, have incorporated the cardigan into recent seasonal lookbooks, placing the piece firmly in the spotlight of showcasing the cardigans relationship with big name fashion powerhouses. When it comes to the pros and cons of investing in the perfectly constructed knit, warmth takes the majority of the pro vote. However, it is often overlooked in adding subtle style and nuance to an outfit - please see ‘Universal Works’. It should come as no surprise, however 20 years since its last peak, the cardi’ has gotten into the hands of the ‘Millenial’. Creative entrepreneurs such as Blondey McCoy and Tyler the Creator, to name but two, have recently adopted the knit and begun telling the grand old story of the button down in their own words. The influence that streetwear has today within youth culture in a global sense, seemingly opens the cardigan up to a new, fresh faced audience. NewYork based just-stick-a-red-label-on-it streetwear giants Supreme, have styled the mohair cardigan in various autumn/winter campaigns of late, peaking the interest of skaters and streetwear-snobs alike. A cool switch of millenial aesthetic again, if you ask me. This current wave of streetwear has the power to place the cardigan back at the top of the fashion mountain, making it a ‘rarity’ for the first time since its creation.

So perhaps it’s not just grandparents and bulked-up-bros. Though, what’s not to say your Nan and Grandad met whilst doing the Tamoure to Wilson Pickett? After all, Tyler the Creator will be a pensioner one day. EJ

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The Essential Journal | Issue 39

STYLE

A Cut Above This month, Ian Harrold considers the all-encompassing appeal of the Acumen grooming regime words by Ian HARROLD

For the longest time, men’s grooming regimes barely extended beyond the monthly cut and shave. As men, we convinced ourselves that we simply didn’t need them, safe in the knowledge that we’re not scruffy, we’re just rugged; we’re not run down, we’re edgy. But let’s not kid ourselves: we have our off-days. And sometimes - just sometimes - it’s entirely possible that we look like shit.

That’s not always a bad thing. After all, looking a little rough around the edges from time to time is often a fairly good indication of a work-hardplay-hard lifestyle. But all the same, we have a nasty habit of letting things slide a little too much, choosing to ignore the little details of dry skin and oily hair.

For the most part, I think that’s because there’s just too much out there. For anyone looking to establish and maintain a solid daily grooming regime, it’s often a case of casting the net wide, buying hair products from one brand, skin care from another. When your wash bag is basically a frankenstein’s monster of a product collection, it’s easy to see how the whole thing can descend from regiment to rigmarole pretty quickly.

Over the past few months, I’ve been playing around with American Crew’s Acumen range.

Acumen circumvents the product confusion with a full range covering all your shower, shave, care and style needs. Everything you need under one category. No need to mix and match. From nourishing pomades to in-shower face washes; energising hydrating gels to clay exfoliating cleansers, Acumen offers up a full suite of grooming products that cover all the bases of a man’s daily regime.

And it makes the world of difference: Having a full grooming repertoire means you can have your cake and eat it. You can push things a little further without looking like Scarface after a weeklong bender in Miami. The signs of fatigue brought on by long-haul business trips can be undone in an instant. The weary eyes of the early start (or the late finish) can be given a fresh-faced spin with ease. Even the tell-tale signs of a well-earned hangover can be swept under the rug with the proper regimen in place.

Acumen has been in the shop for a little while now, and it’s gaining some serious traction.

It’s pretty easy to see why as it represents an interesting turning point for guys; a much needed foray into everyday luxury. And it’s about time too: Male male grooming is no longer seen to be conceited or excessive, it’s simply the standard.

And as far as I’m concerned, Acumen goes a long way to setting that standard. IH

Issue 39 | The Essential Journal

Tailored Thoughts on:

Dressing for Winter Huntsman cutter and resident tailoring columnist Matthew Gonzalez turns his attentions to the fits, fabrics and potential fashion failings of Christmas dressing words by Matthew GONZALEZ

C

hristmas has never really been known as a stylish time of year. Let’s be honest, the decorations are pretty garish. Don’t just take my word for it, think of almost any Christmas film that you’ve seen, Buddy the Elf is funny, but I would hesitate to follow his sartorial lead. The Muppets Christmas Carol is another holiday classic though the clothing is perhaps too Dickensian for modern tastes. There are a few exceptions. The clothing in films like It’s a Wonderful Life or White Christmas are aesthetically pleasing but they come from a stylish point in history rather than showcasing any particular influence from Christmas itself.

These days we seem almost overrun with novelty holiday jumpers that are plastered with cheesy puns and embellished with festive graphics so it’s hard to know how to be festive without looking like a bit of an idiot. Now with the holidays approaching here is a Savile Row tailor’s thoughts on how to dress well this season.

Winter is all about two elements, colour and texture. Fit is also essential but it’s not seasonal so make sure you wear clothing that fits. Just in case its needed here is a two minute masterclass on what it means for clothing to fit properly.

Regardless whether you’re wearing a tailored shirt, jumper or coat pay attention to the shoulder line. The seam at the end of the shoulder should finish where your shoulder does. It shouldn’t flare out or fall half way down your arm. A jacket collar should sit firmly on your neck, any gaps means its not fitting correctly. If you like wearing really fitted clothing check that the buttons are not pulling when fastened. If you prefer an easier fit just ensure that its not too baggy all around you.

When wearing trousers make sure that the waist is comfortable but firm, so it doesn’t slip, there is nothing worse then having to pull them up every other minute, if only because it ruins the break at the hem. If you like something fitted, keep an eye on your pockets, if they are pulling open your trousers probably are too tight. Tailors have a simple rule when it comes to how long trousers should be, the wider the hem, the more easily it will fall over your shoes so wear them a bit longer. Conversely, narrow trousers tend to look their best slightly shorter, sitting just on top or even a little above your shoes. That’s it!

So what should you be wearing this winter? Generally, we like to feel a bit cosy during the cold months so fabrics with texture tend to feel more comfortable to wear. Brushed cotton or flannel trousers in rich earth tones or warming greys are perfect to pair with a roll neck cashmere jumper in a burgundy or emerald. It’s the perfect look for a casual office party or a few drinks with friends. A nice pair of lace up boots will finish off your look.

If you have to wear a suit, go with flannel, something in a mid grey, dark navy or if you are feeling a bit punchy a rich earthy brown can be a show stopper. Whatever you choose make sure to find a shade that works with your skin tone. To keep it timeless pair your suit with a crisp white shirt, a tonal woollen tie and for a touch of colour pop a silk handkerchief in your pocket.

For a more casual look swap the shirt and tie for a roll neck in a deep seasonal colour.

Finish it off with either highly polished black or dark brown oxfords.

Christmas Day itself can be a bit more casual but that doesn’t mean that we have to walk around in pyjamas and a bath robe. A slightly oversized cable knit jumper in ivory, grey, or dark navy paired with dark brown cotton trousers and some boots or loafers fits the bill perfectly. If you are up for a bit of formality try almost port coloured red or deep green velvet dinner/smoking jacket. Pair that with some black wool trousers and some black plain Albert loafers and you will look every inch the English gentleman.

Dressing for winter can be tough. The nights are long and the days are cold but if we take our time and think about what we wear each day we just might feel jolly long enough to last us till spring. So Happy Holidays. MG

"Winter is all about two elements, colour and texture. Fit is also essential but it’s not seasonal so make sure you wear clothing that fits."

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LIFESTYLE

Powerscourt Hotel With spectacular views of a charmingly named ‘Sugarloaf Mountain’, Powerscourt hotel excel’s as the perfect setting for a winter escape in the sweeping uplands of County Wicklow.

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desirable, white coated building surrounded by the Wicklow Mountains and Ireland’s tallest waterfall, Powerscourt looks like something straight out of an Albert Bierstadt painting. In fact, it is a five-star hotel that blends old school grandeur with outdoor activities, from golf to clay pigeon shooting, to walks of Glendalough. It’s beautiful destination amidst a picturesque setting that will leave you breathless.

The word ‘magnificence’ springs to mind when exploring the hotel’s lengthy halls and high-ceiling rooms of a very substantial size. Powerscourt is five-star experience that’s easy on the pomposity. A relaxed atmosphere and friendly staff who are keen to help make Powerscourt hotel stand out from its competitors. The rooms are adorned with marble bathrooms, extra wide and luxurious beds and seperate dressing rooms as standard. The addition of a trendy integrated mirror TV gives you the option to watch a movie in the tub, a stimulating piece of creative design that adds a vibrant touch of technological charm.

Set over two floors, the beautifully ambient ESPA spa is a real highlight, with a variety of treatments on offer throughout. The hotel opens up onto the incredible green splendour of the Powerscourt gardens. The hi-spec gym and 24-metre, Swarovski diamondencrusted pool add a touch of excess to your exercise. Upon completion of a gym session or swim, the relaxation room offers splendid views of County Wicklow, a wonderful way to wind down and take in the surroundings.

There’s food and drink for every mood; whether that comes in the form of a Guinness from classic Irish pub, McGills, or a traditional Irish menu from SIKA that uses local ingredients to create zesty little dishes for all to enjoy. Powerscourt hotel caters to one’s every need, a hotel that appeals to both the outdoor enthusiast and the in-door lover of the finer things.

Prices for the hotel range from weekday B&B rates of £183, to weekends from £240.

Timeout package £270 (includes a one night stay, three course meal & breakfast at the award-winning SIKA restaurant). EJ

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"Powerscourt hotel caters to one’s every need, a hotel that appeals to both the outdoor enthusiast and the in-door lover of the finer things."

The essential journal | issue 39

LIFESTYLE

9 0 0 0 W AY S T O S AY H A P P Y CHRISTMAS Exceptional whiskies, spirits and wines

Visit our London Shops: Covent Garden | Great Portland Street

3 2 , 5 0 0 + R E V I E W S | R AT E D : E X C E L L E N T

What’s On

November – December

Sunday 25 November 2.30pm & 8pm Music Room

Monday 24 December 11am & 2pm

It’s A Wonderful Life

A Theatr Mwldan Production

Catrin Finch & Seckou Keita

Monday 31 December 7.30pm Royal Liverpool Philharmonic Orchestra

Saturday 1 December 8pm

New Year’s Eve: You Can’t Stop the Music

Laughterhouse Live Saturday 8 December 2.30pm Family Concert

The Nutcracker and I,

by Alexandra Dariescu

Box Office 0151 709 3789 liverpoolphil.com

Sunday 23 December 8pm Music Room

Baked A La Ska: Ska of Wonder Principal Funders

Principal Partners Thanks to the City of Liverpool for its financial support

LiverpoolPhilharmonic liverpoolphil liverpool_philharmonic Media Partner

Image Catrin Finch & Seckou Keita

BUSINESS

Putting Liverpool on the Map Elliot Group’s growing portfolio of Liverpool words by developments is both a lesson in sound business and Ralph Canis a love letter to the city

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Images from top: Elliot Lawless, Founding Director of Elliot Group.

Infinity Towers, Liverpool. Wolstenholme, Liverpool

Issue 39 | The Essential Journal

e’re on a world stage now.’ The words are uttered with an infectious grin and a clear confidence. From anyone else it might seem like hyperbole, misplaced pride, or a less-than-humble brag. But from Elliot Group’s Founding Director, Elliot Lawless, it’s simply a matter of fact. After all, it’s no understatement to say that, in just under a decade, Elliot has changed the face of Liverpool.

Elliot’s is an empire built from humble beginnings and a true passion for his home city. With 18 developments across Liverpool, Leeds and Manchester boasting a gross development value of £850m, Elliot has been responsible for the development of 5246 new homes and the generation of 2450 new jobs. And while his passion for property and development have taken him to cities beyond his hometown, Liverpool still remains his most loved city.

Seeing opportunities where others didn’t, Elliot beat 2011’s post-recession odds to breathe new life into Liverpool’s Baltic Triangle. As little as a decade ago, The Baltic was a more-or-less derelict warehouse district, a ghost of Liverpool’s once burgeoning industrial momentum. Fast-forward to 2018 and Elliot has paved the way for creatives, entrepreneurs and a myriad of small businesses, thereby laying the foundations for the future of the city.

‘We always knew it was a simple case of getting potential investors to the city,’ says Elliot. ‘We were confident that Liverpool’s charm and character would take it from there.’ Born and raised in Liverpool himself, it’s not hard to see how his ground-up, from-the-shop-floor enthusiasm for the city could be contagious. ‘It’s not until people actually come and experience the city that they realise just how special it really is. I truly believe that. Maybe my passion for the city has a tendency to rub off on people!’

But it’s not just the city’s charm that has been instrumental to Elliot’s success: ‘It also helps that we were consistently building on time, on budget, and with a healthy yield. There’s a real security to that,’ suggests Elliot. ‘At a time when other contractors weren’t performing so well, we became known for our ambition, dedication ability to see things through.’

According to Elliot, ongoing support from Liverpool City Council has also played a huge part in the company’s growth: ‘The council have always been an amazing ally. A lot of city councils like to create issues for developers. They create an usversus-them mentality that doesn’t really help anyone. In true Liverpool fashion, the council have proved to be cooperative and open to different projects. They want to see the city grow as much as we do.’ But in the wrong hands, growth can prove to be somewhat intimidating. The sheer scale of both the Infinity Towers and the One Wolstenholme Square projects, for example, raised a more than a few eyebrows when first announced. ‘People thought I was crazy, Liverpool hadn’t really seen anything quite like these projects in terms of size,’ Elliot recalls. ‘But I sell Liverpool everyday; I know its potential. I see the excitement in people’s faces just to be here. Liverpool deserves this.’

When asked about people’s concerns for world heritage, Elliot shows a tremendous amount of respect for Liverpool’s rich history while also suggesting a desire to guide the city into a prosperous future. ‘I don’t want to stifle the city,’ says Elliot. ‘World heritage is a lovely thing, and I respect it massively. But we have to be careful not to keep things too ornamental. Heritage is a lovely idea but it’s dangerous if it’s used to hold a city down. It can be a little scary, but let’s just let this city grow organically and see what happens.’

In quarter one 2019, Elliot Group will be announcing some major projects which will see the group hit over a billion pounds invested in the city, with numerous projects not only completed, but completed ahead of schedule. By all accounts, it’s a labour of love for Elliot, but his dedication to the city is unwavering: ‘It’s about believing in the product. And in this case the product is Liverpool. It’s a beautiful city that does most of the work for me. And the best part about the city? It’s just getting started.’ EJ

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PARTNER CONTENT

How to Christmas à la française with Lillet Get into the festive spirit with France's finest wine-based apertif

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hether you’re drinking to the gentle warmth of the fireplace, or raising a glass with friends and family around Christmas dinner, there’s no Christmas drink quite like Lillet.

The masterful balance of rich fruit infusions and superior Bordeaux wines makes Lillet the perfect choice for homemade cocktails when the temperatures start to drop and hearts begin to warm.

Every last drop of Lillet is imbued with the free-spirited elegance and classic charm for which the French have become famous.

And thanks to Sainsbury’s, you can now enjoy this French fancy at home.

So whether you’re wining-anddining your nearest and dearest, or looking for that last minute gift for your gracious hosts, Lillet is on hand to help you celebrate this Christmas à la française.

To help you really ease into the

spirit of things, we offer up a few different aperitif recipes to help your festive frolics truly sing. Bold, refined and full of festive cheer, these Lillet serves promise to wow friends and family all winter long with their Bordelaise sophistication.

So let those aperitif moments drift into the festive months ahead with the serving suggestions below.

Santé!

AVALIABLE AT

Lillet’s deliciously elegant wine-based aperitifs can be purchased at your local Sainsbury’s. Get yours in time for Christmas to treat your guests with a truly tasty and festive moment.

Lillet's festive aperitifs

Star of Lillet

Lillet Xmas Berry

Lillet Sparkle

Lillet Red Blush

Lillet Winter Spritz

50ml Lillet Blanc 2.5ml Maple Syrup One dash of Abotts bitters

50ml Lillet Rosé 75ml tonic water

35ml Lillet Rosé 15ml blood orange purée One dash of Angostura bitters

35ml Lillet Blanc 25ml Martell VS 25ml fresh lemon juice 25ml sugar syrup

50ml Lillet Blanc 75ml Tonic Water

Method Build in a flute, top with champagne

Method Build in a wine glass, with cubed ice

Method Build in a flute, top with Champagne

Method Build in a mug, top with hot roiboos teas

Method Build in a wine glass, with cubed ice

Garnish Star anise

Garnish Redcurrant

Garnish Blackberry

Garnish Lemon wedge and cloves

Garnish Cinnamon stick & orange wheel

PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY

@LILLET

@LILLET

PARTNER CONTENT

If you find yourself out and about this christmas, reward yourself for braving the winter cold with a Lillet aperitif at these Liverpool hotspots

Maray, Bold Street 91 Bold St, Liverpool L1 4HF @marayliverpool

Recipe: Filter & Fox 27 Duke St, Liverpool L1 5AP @filter_and_fox

Tonka Bean Rice Pudding with Poached Lillet Blanc Pears Because the true artistry of Lillet is as at home in the kitchen as it is in the cocktail

Royal Institution 24 Colquitt Street, Liverpool L1 4DE @royalinstitutionliverpool

Dockleaf 107 Stanhope Street, Liverpool L8 5RE @dockleaf

LILLET POACHED PEARS

Method

Ingredients 6 conference pears- peeled, stem on.

1l Lillet Blanc 2l water 4 cardomom pods 1 star anise 1 clove 3tbsp ground turmeric 200g light brown sugar

LILLET POACHED PEARS

TONKA BEAN RICE PUDDING Ingredients 250g pudding rice 200g condensed milk 250ml evaporated milk 500ml double cream 1l milk 5 Tonka beans 170g caster sugar Teaspoon salt

words by Sam GRAINGER

1 Add all the Lillet poached pear ingredients to a large deep pan and put onto a medium heat.

2 Ensure the pears are fully submerged while cooking, make yourself a cartouche to fit the pan to help with this.

3 Cook on a medium low heat for around 40 minutes or until a skewer will pass through the pear with little pressure. You don’t want them too soft as they will become too hard to handle and lose the texture required.

4 Cool and store in the cooking liquor until required.

TONKA BEAN RICE PUDDING 1 To start you will need to grate your Tonka beans into a small dish and set aside.

Use the smallest grater possible.

2 Weigh all ingredients out and place in a heavy bottom pot. Cast iron with a ceramic surface would be best. If you don’t have one you could always use a slow cooker set on medium.

3 Place the pan on a medium low heat, we don’t want the pan to boil just to simmer.

Keep stirring the pan. If the rice starts to stick turn down the heat.

Le Petit Café du Coin 60 Berry St, Liverpool L1 4JQ @petitcafeducoin

Issue 39 | The Essential Journal

4 Simmer for around 45 minutes, until the rice is soft.

5 Serve immediately with the Lillet soaked poached pear.

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Services Commercial Property Leases Sales and Purchases Investment Properties Developer work Residential Conveyancing Freehold & Lease Developer Work Sale & Purchase Tenant Evictions Fixed fee including court representation Other Services Personal Injury Family Law Wills

Contact

0151 958 0808 info@mrblaw.co.uk

The Royal Liver Building Pier Head, Liverpool, L3 1HU michaelrosebaylis.co.uk

DRINKING

High Spirits A month’s worth of comings and goings in the world of The Whisky Exchange

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s the temperatures start to drop, we set our sights (and taste buds) on the new season’s winter-warmers. And that’s exactly what we’ve brought you this month. From the punchy, sweet festive treat of Christmas malts, to the South African spice of an all-too-rare Cape Brandy, this month’s roundup gives a whole new meaning to the idea of festive spirit. Cheers!

words by Liz LOCK

Who we're visiting The Macallan Distillery

What we're drinking

Top of the list for the next trip north of the border is the rather impressive new Macallan distillery and visitor experience. More than three years and £140million in the making, it was the most talked about opening of the whisky world in 2018 and definitely worth a visit. My inner geek was fascinated to hear that the spectacular roof of the new distillery features 380,000 individual components, almost none of which are equal or the same.

Oude Molen XO Cape Brandy No festive season is complete without a good brandy, and this XO from South Africa (a nation launching some great liquid at the moment) is quite something. The South Africans have been producing brandy since they have been producing wine, but this is the first time Oude Molen has appeared in the UK. Bring it out at the end of a good meal to really appreciate notes of apple tatin and dried pineapple, hints of cedar wood, caramel and sweet spice

The Macallan Distillery and Visitor Experience, Easter Elchies, Craigellachie, AB38 9RX, Scotland.

£59.95 - thewhiskyexchange.com

themacallan.com

what we're mixing Idle Hands Now, I’m no bartender (whisper it… I’ve never even worked behind a bar), but no-one can deny how well Cognac works in cocktails.

Dependent on the ingredients you use, you’ll boost either the fruity and floral notes or the spice and buttery notes.

This creation, from the guys at The Dark Horse in Bath, definitely does the latter and that’s what you really want for winter.

Incredibly simple and delicious to boot, this little tipple might just replace the usual Old Fashioneds at home this Christmas!

INGREDIENTS 40ml Ferrand 10 Générations Cognac 10ml Bourbon 1 Bar spoon of Amaro 1 Bar spoon of Demerara sugar syrup 5 drops of Angostura bitters METHOD Add all ingredients to a mixing glass, stir to taste. Pour over a large ice cube in a rocks glass and garnish with an orange twist.

what we're dramming A Fine Christmas Malt Who we're following If you’re looking for a dram that can be described as ‘Christmas in a glass’, this is it. Matured for 17 years in Oloroso sherry butts, this Speyside single malt is described by our whisky ambassador, Billy Abbott, as ‘the essence of Christmas, with rich buttery spice and sticky cherries, hints of holly-wreath leafiness and Christmas-tree pine’. If that doesn’t make your mouth water, I don’t know what will! £74.95 - thewhiskyexchange.com Issue 39 | The Essential Journal

@denverandliely Denver Cramer and Liely Faulkner are friends who love high quality but functional design and, as such, have created a small selection of exceptional glassware for whisky, bourbon and gin. Their Instagram feed isn’t just full of beautifully-photographed glassware that makes you want to buy immediately (although there is some of that every now and then), it’s also crammed with wanderlust, interesting personalities and whisky recommendations. Keep an eye on their stories for global adventures with whisky!

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DRINKING

Drinking with

Zetter Townhouse With two sites at either end of London, The Zetter Townhouses are independently-owned and gloriously-furnished boutique hotels with lavish bars to boot.

Boasting 13 unique rooms, a cocktail menu that borders on alchemy, and a taxidermied kangaroo in a pair of boxing gloves, their Clerkenwell hotel is an endearingly oddball monument to passion, complexity and eccentric theatricality words by Will HALBERT

Image Credits: Addie Chin

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The Essential Journal | Issue 39

DRINKING

Featured Libation:

The Flintlock

Get the Round in:

Guy Mazuch Quickfire questions answered in the time it takes The Zetter Townhouse’s head bartender to serve up two ice-cold shots of Fernet Branca I noticed a kangaroo in the dining room, what’s his story?

Oh, you mean Willie? Don’t mind him, he mostly minds his own business. I’ve known guests to spend entire evenings drinking away in the dining room without even noticing he’s there.

Who makes your overshirts?

The fine folks at Carrier Company. They’re based in Norfolk and specialise in good old, hard-wearing workwear. It’s had a little fine-tuning at the tailors across the street but it’s aging beautifully.

So, you shake your Sazerac’s. What’s the deal with that?

Sacrilege for most, I know, but we honestly think it tastes better. Sure, I could wax lyrical about the science of aeration and ice contact but honestly, it comes down to personal preference. And a shaken Sazerac is ours!

I also notice your menu refrains from going into too much detail about its base spirits.

Is there a reason for that?

There is! There’s an awful lot of preconceptions around certain spirits that we wanted to do away with.

Losing brand descriptors and certain points of reference forces people to experiment a little more than they usually might.

What’s your house shot?

Nettle gimlets, without a doubt. They’re currently not on the menu, but they’re a firm favourite with regulars, so we always have our homemade nettle cordial to hand. Trying to explain to our foreign guests quite what a nettle is always a good laugh, too.

I

t’s a gin riff on the classic Sazerac, what’s not to love? The usual rye/brandy split is replaced by gin (I mean, this is London after all) while the dandelion & burdock bitters make for a floral alternative to Peychaud's aniseed kick. A Fernet Branca wash keeps it all in check, never letting the sweetness of the Chinatown-sourced gunpowder tea tincture overstep its mark.

The addition of a flashwool garnish adds a welcome touch of pyromaniacal flare to an otherwise understated concoction. One spark from the bartender’s lighter and the garnish disappears in one fiery flourish. Up in smoke, gone in a flash, and down in one: The Flintlock cocktail not only adds to the charm of Zetter’s cocktail list, but also serves as a blazing celebration of the classic cocktail’s endless malleability. EJ

What’s next?

We’re working with the guys over at Drinks Factory to fine-tune our all-new Autumn/Winter menu.

Plus we’ve introduced a lovely little afternoon tea. Watch this space!

The Secret Ingredient:

The Köln Aromatic Tincture

The Ace in the Hole:

Tony Conigliaro

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idely acknowledged as one of the UK’s foremost drinks creators, Tony Conigliaro and his consultancy team Drink Factory - have created a menu that truly sings of Zetter’s London heritage.

Traditional recipes for tinctures, bitters and herbal remedies have inspired Zetter’s cocktails and homemade cordials and alike.

Conigliaro understands that the humble cocktail has just seconds to make an impact, and with that knowledge, he has elevated cocktail-making from a craft to a science. Pinpoint precision and flawless consistency make for a singular sensory experience that tells a rich story in a single sip. EJ Issue 39 | The Essential Journal

F

or all of its fancy serves and ornate garnishes, it’s easy to forget that gin is, in essence, just perfume. Zetter know this, and their Köln Aromatic Tincture is a shining example of their parfumerie approach to cocktail making.

The tincture has a misleadingly in-your-face boldness on the nose that quicky mellows once it’s thrown into the mix of a Martini. Just two drops of the stuff are enough to turn the drink on its head: Top notes of bergamot and lavender surrender to heart notes of lemon peel and grapefruit zest. It’s a welcome dose of flavour theatrics that imparts a dry bite to an otherwise wet Martini. Thats their preferred house style, and you know what? We’re totally on board with that. EJ

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LIFESTYLE

NYE - 31ST DEC

A LOVE FROM OUTER S PA C E ( A L L N I G H T LO N G ) TICKETS - SKIDDLE 40 SLATER STREET, LIVERPOOL. L1 4BX THEMERCHANTLIVERPOOL.CO.UK

DINING

VICTORIA MARKET HALL, LONDON The team behind Market Hall Fulham recently cut the red tape to London’s newest food hall, Market Hall Victoria. Former home of super-club, Pacha and originally an Edwardian shopping arcade, the team have transformed the abandoned arcade into a sustainable hangout containing 11 kitchens, a coffee shop and three bars (with a roof terrace coming in 2019). We’re currently salivating over the Bun Shop from the minds behind Hackney’s Marksman Pub.

BUSTLER MARKET, DERBY Some say Bustler Market of Derby is the best in Britain. We can see where they are coming from.

Open only on the last weekend of each month, Bustler showcases the best street food and drink the Midlands and beyond has to offer. For November’s edition they welcome Ruby’s Street Kitchen, Beer Metropolis and Homeboys. That’s a trio that are worth the trip.

Market This With the influx of food markets reaching new heights in recent times, we thought it be vital to take a well needed look at this very modern way of dining words by Reece FEENEY

Issue 39 | The Essential Journal

T

he Food Market - 2018’s 'Greatest thing since bread came sliced' award winner. The world cannot get enough of them as food continues to invade the entertainment sector. The hungry-andsociables new found love of unique fast casual dining, paired with more commercial pros like low failure rates, cheaper, short-term rents and large empty spaces...oh and of course the mouth watering food...have sent the global trend into another atmosphere.

Traditional markets like Altrincham Market - a few miles south of Manchester - have been reinvigorated in recent times thanks to the on-trend concept. For Altrincham, the food hall which opened in 2017 and often features in the world’s top ten, has played a major part in revitalizing not just the traditional market but the town, with bars, restaurants and small artisanal stores opening permanent spots in the streets immediately around it. It may take a while to find a seat on a Saturday afternoon, but it’s worth the wait.

A short train journey into Manchester and the brains behind Alti market, this year reimagined an 1858 Grade II listed building into their latest food hall venture, Mackie Mayor. Across town in the heart of the university quarter, a modest collection of brightly coloured shipping containers find themselves nestled below the Mancunian way. The award winning Hatch offers budding food operators a space to find their feet for relatively cheap, compared to the garish leasing of larger spaces which come with greater risk of failure. A key factor in the rise of the food hall phenomenon. With the bubble not set to burst anytime soon and hundreds readying to open their doors around the world in 2019, we took a look at five of our favourites from here in the UK. EJ

GRUB, MANCHESTER Presenting the holy trinity of market hall essentials - ale, music and food, GRUB believe in offering a chance for customers to come and enjoy new and creative street food at all times. The food event pioneers have prided themselves on giving new grassroot traders a chance to develop their skills at GRUB’s food fair space. If positive festival vibes only is your bag, then GRUB is the place to go.

DUKE STREET MARKET, LIVERPOOL One that we are on the edge of our seats for is Liverpool’s Duke Street Food and Drink Market.

The brains behind El Bandito, Slim’s Pork Chop Express and 81 Ltd. are aiming to bring one of the Northwest’s primary culinary tourism destinations to the city. With a sharp eye on quality, sustainability, produce, artisanal methods and experience, the 500 capacity venue is set to open in a beautifully restored 100 year old building, bringing together some outstanding operators from both in and outside of the city.

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EXCLUSIVELY AT

attitude 66 Rose Lane Liverpool L18 0151 724 5277

www.attitudemenshair.co.uk

BOOKS

From the works of the world’s most influential postwar designer, to images from the most celebrated photographer of our time, here’s our roundup of books for the month ahead words by Reece FEENEY

A VERY SERIOUS COOKBOOK by Contra Wildair, Alison Roman, Fabian von Hauske & Jeremiah Stone

Imagine two immensely popular restaurants situated in New York’s Lower East Side, one named Contra, the other Wildair. Now imagine that the two rising star chefs behind them made a cookbook filled with eighty five futuristic recipes they have seemingly patented.

No imagining needed, it happened. The book’s distinctively witty style discusses the passions and creative process of two of the most innovative chefs at this present moment, Jeremiah Stone and Fabian von Hauske. The book invites you to take a look into the marvelously wonderful creations they have conjured up.

A Very Serious Cookbook (Phaidon) is available now

A lavish collection of works from the one-and-only Annie Leibovitz. One of our most culturally-celebrated photographers shares her work through a treasure trove of evocative imagery, capturing the essence of some of the most prominent periods in modern history. Her subjects range from Hunter S. Thompson to Queen Elizabeth and, accordingly, the cultural references are exquisite. At Work provides real insight into the mind blowing processes of a photography phenomenon.

ANNIE LEIBOVITZ AT WORK

by Annie LEIBOVITZ

Annie Leibovitz at Work (Phaidon) is available now

The only book to thoroughly investigate - with precise geographical demarcations - the controversially-popular Brutalist movement. The oversized hardback covers 850 brutalist buildings ranging from the much loved to the lesser known.

The weight of the beautifully-bound books hints at the wealth of information to be found within its pages. It’s rare that a book is as impressive on the outside as it is in the inside, making Atlas a rare feat and a must-have in equal measure.

ATLAS OF BRUTALIST ARCHITECTURE

by PHAIDON

Atlas of Brutalist Architecture (Phaidon) is available now

only what's necessary: charles m. schulz and the art of peanuts

by Chip KIDD

VERNER PANTON

by Ida Engholm & Anders Michelsen

Something for all fans of innovation and creativity. Verner Panton is a veritable time capsule of technique and development in the design world. Including Panton’s eye for systematic new inventions, each page pops with forward-thinking designs and creations, from textiles to furniture. The 1960s without this man would have been a little less colourful to say the least, and Phaidon capture that colour with ease and aplomb.

For 50 years, Charles M. Schulz wrote and illustrated Peanuts.

Fascinating and fiendishly funny, its cultural relevance holds fast to this day. The book does a splendid job of revisiting the archives, granting designer, Chip Kidd, and award winning photographer, Geoff Spear, access to the Charles M. Schulz museum and research centre in Santa Rosa, California.

Much of the archive has never been seen before, making it a rare gem in Peanuts’ incredible legacy.

Only What’s Necessary: Charles M. Schulz and the Art of Peanuts (Abrams ComicArts) is available now

Verner Panton (Phaidon) is available now

Issue 39 | The Essential Journal

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Fashion, Lifestyle, Dining, Culture & Opinion All in pursuit of a quality lifestyle

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The Essential Journal | Issue 36

Advert Image Credit: Ibrahim Rifath / Unsplash

available online today essentialjournal.co.uk

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