Essential Journal - Issue 40

style

Talking Shop with Leeds stalwart The Hip Store page 12

I n

p u r s u i t

o f

a

review

column

drinking

interview

Achievements & lessons learned by the class of 2018

What does it mean to be a Gentleman in 2019?

Hine introduce us to the fine art of Cognac

Year-round wellness with CALM & LIVFIT

page 16

page 20

page 37

page 41

q u a l i t y

l i f e s t y l e

I s s u e

40

Isn't it Wonderful?

With James Stewart's dulcet tones in the background, the fire gently glowing and a serving of your preferred dram in hand, join us as we reflect on what was and what is to be

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Features

Contents Middle Eight

THE PRIMER A rundown of the places we’ve been, the shops we’ve visited and what we learnt in the last year

8

10 ONE THING DONE WELL: ANDERSEN-ANDERSEN Our series of brands doing one item especially well continues this month with Andersen-Andersen’s cotton crewneck 12

TALKING SHOP: THE HIP STORE, LEEDS We speak to the guys at The Hip Store’s new three-floor space, discussing everything from established regulars to investment pieces

14 NORTHERN SOUL, SAFE & SOUND A fond look back at Ben Sherman’s tributes to the soul boys and soul girls of yesteryear

16

20 TAILORED THOUGHTS ON: A MODERN MAN Huntsman Cutter and resident columnist, Matthew Gonzalez questions what it means to be a gentleman in 2019

A YEAR IN REVIEW

20 A CUT ABOVE This month, Ian Harrold ponders his year in review and the lessons learned so far

A look back at 2018 here at Essential Journal with a fine selection of past, present and future contributors

29 CORDUROY DREAMS & BLACK FRIDAY REBELLION We look into corduroy’s re-entering into fashions mainstream, whilst also looking at brands with a different Black Friday approach THE RECIPE: BREAKFAST MARMALADE We take a shot at Martin Berg’s rendition of the quintessential winter preserve, compliments of Arket’s all-new cookbook

31

32 DRINKING WITH: BELOW STAIRS, LEEDS A bar wise beyond its years with an intellectual, narrative-driven approach to cocktail making 37

SPIRITED WISDOM With over 250 years of heritage at its heels, Hine has a lot to teach us about the fine art of Cognac

38 HIGH SPIRITS A month’s worth of comings and goings in the world of fine spirits

34

A MOVEABLE FEAST: BENCH VOL.1 A new quarterly supper club from the independently enhanced city of Sheffield

21 partner content

THE WHISKY EXCHANGE FITZROVIA Climb the gin wall, sort your Armagnac from your Calvados and uncover the mystery behind independent bottlers at the brand new Whisky Exchange Fitzrovia

39 FLOUR WILL FLY Discovering a pasta-making workshop that sets out to be one of the coolest trends of 2019 41 NOT JUST FOR CHRISTMAS We talk to two major proponents in the quest for all year wellness 45 FESTIVE FILMS FOR ONE AND ALL Unlocking the archive into some of filmmakings beloved Christmas crackers 46 BOOKS FOR THE MONTH AHEAD From beer directories, to fashion moguls, to advice on stepping up your pet food game, here's our round-up of books for the month ahead

Online web www.essentialjournal.co.uk @essentialjournal

PUBLISHERS Singleton Publishing

CONTRIBUTORS Alex Turner Andreas Neumann David Rix Haarkon Ian Harrold Jack Wakelin James Fox Jason Catifeoglou Joe Shutter John Robinson Liz Lock

Matthew Gonzalez Michael Molloy Oliver Spencer Ralph Cains Ricki Hall Robin Jeffery Russ Gator Simon Gunning Stef Thrasyvoulou Tommy Banks Tommy Kerns

EDITOR Will Halbert w.halbert@singletonpublishing.co.uk CREATIVE DIRECTOR Thomas Sumner t.sumner@singletonpublishing.co.uk LEAD DESIGNER Jennifer Swaby STAFF WRITER Reece Feeney FRONT COVER James Stewart John Kobal Foundation / Getty Images

Issue 40 | The Essential Journal

@essentialjournal @TEJOURNAL

PARTNERSHIP MANAGER Lara Poynor l.poynor@singletonpublishing.co.uk For all advertising enquiries please contact: sales@essentialjournal.co.uk For all other enquiries including guest editorial and feature opportunities please contact: info@essentialjournal.co.uk

TERMS & CONDITIONS Under no circumstances must any part of this publication be reproduced without prior permission to the publisher. Whilst every effort is taken, the publisher shall not be held responsible for any errors.

Furthermore, the publisher shall not be held responsible for any advertising material/content. Please also note that the views and opinions written within this publication do not necessarily represent the views and opinions of the publisher. All prices and details stated within this publication are correct at the time of print, however these are subject to change and the publisher shall not be held responsible for these. Third party contributions own exclusive copyright to their own material that they have submitted as part of the publication. All rights reserved.

5

THE PRIMER

‘Die Hard is not a Christmas movie.

It’s a goddamn Bruce Willis movie’ – BRUCE WILLIS A note from

Christmas is, above all, a time the editor for reflection, contemplation and good will to your fellow man. Unless the fellow man in question happens to think Die Hard isn’t a Christmas film.

That fellow man deserves coal.

I mean, not to get downright academic about it all, but the film is a pretty clear cut case of self-betterment and the suffering of the individual in the service of the many, not to mention a blatant censure of widespread, institutionalised avarice. To that end, Die Hard is practically A Christmas Carol.

You know, if Dickens was into blood-stained vests and semi-automatics.

I can see why there’s so much resistance to the idea.

I mean, if the semantic and interpretive boundaries are left lax enough, any film watched at Christmas is, by loose definition, a Christmas film. But where does that end, fair reader?

Where does that end? Did I get sidetracked? Apologies. Happy Holidays from everyone here at The Essential Journal. Go eat a mince pie, make awkward conversation with the 'old fashioned' (you know what I mean) family member you’ve been avoiding all year, and above all, heed this one, solitary pearl of festive wisdom: Bruce Willis knows nothing and it’s not Christmas until Hans Gruber falls from the Nakatomi Plaza.

Will HALBERT Editor 8

where we've been visiting TORONTO, CANADA A city of dreamers, believers and over-achievers, the people of Toronto aren’t ones to sit still and wait for the next big thing to come to them. From developing their own cold brew coffee to opening boutique mens and womenswear stores, and printing colloquialhumoured tees to mixing the next queue-for-’em-cocktails, it’s a city built on the side-hustle. On a recent visit, the first in 4 and half years, this was as evident as ever with the likes of Pilot coffee roasters having expanded their cold brew production and menswear store Park & Province firmly establishing itself on the fashion front.

Elsewhere, the craft beer scene is no longer just about Bellwoods Brewery - as delicious as it continues to be - with Left Field and Burdock now hot on the scene, whilst Paris Paris pioneers the natural wine revolution alongside its indulgent-yet-wipe-yourhands-on-your-jeans food offering. Be sure to grab yourself a souvenir ‘Turonno’ tee from The Button Machine, as you bid farewell to the city and jump on the UP Express to Pearson International.

What we’ve been watching THE BALLAD OF BUSTER SCRUGGS

A rootin'-tootin' Netflix original from none other than the Coen brothers (The Big Lebowski, No Country for Old Men), The Ballad of Buster Scruggs is, by turns, hilarious and harrowing. An audacious anthology of tales from the once Wild West, the film comprises six vignettes from the American frontier. Each short is not only unique in tone and theme, but boasts some impressive performances from a star-studded cast. For longtime fans of the Coen’s work, expect healthy doses of the duo’s typical visual flare and oddball humour. And for the newcomers: well, welcome to the party.

Where on Earth have you been?

the primer image UNIVERSAL WORKS HOTEL DE LUXE

where we've been eating

what we've been listening to

DISHOOM, MANCHESTER

TABLE MANNERS, PAUL SMITH

Already well-established across the UK, Dishoom has finally opened its (rather ornate) doors in Manchester. Drawing heavy inspiration from the freemasonry of Bombay, Dishoom have set up shop in the newly-renovated, Grade II-listed, Masonic Hall of Manchester’s Spinningfields district. With a superlative food and drinks menu that more than matches the grandiose settings of the restaurant itself, Dishoom is a powerhouse of all-day, all-night revelry that’s sure to serve up something spectacular regardless of the time. Dishoom’s bacon naan breakfast rolls and East India Gimlets are not to be missed, but maybe refrain from trying them at the same time.

Jessie Ware hosts a podcast about food, family, and the beautiful art of having a chat, direct from her very own dinner table. Each week, guests for the music world, culture and politics all pop in for a chin wag, accompanied by Jessie and her chef extraordinaire mum Lennie. The chat is based all around food. A specific dish is cooked and the guest is interviewed in a very informal manner. Of course sitting around the table and eating whilst having a gossip about life helps spill some home truths and a vast range of exclusivities. This specific episode (S4 EP 8) saw British fashion icon Sir Paul Smith drop by for a natter. Jessie explores the history of Smith’s start-up in the world of fashion amongst a few other things along the way.

Where we’ve been drinking CARAVAN COFFEE It’s not easy to balance the calm cool of the speciality coffee shop with the frantic, hustle and bustle of the Central London cocktail bar, but Caravan Coffee do the job with admirable style and ease.

Housed in the former BBC Radio 1 HQ, Caravan Coffee’s Fitzrovia shop offers signature, all-day dining and a menu replete with what they themselves refer to as ‘well-travelled’ flavours.

While we can’t vouch the itinerant nature of their flavours, we can say that their pizzas are something special. Well worth a visit if you’re in the neighbourhood.

When one of our favourite fashion designers lists one of our favourite directors as a key influence on a collection, our ears instantly prick up.

Universal Works this Autumn/Winter invited you to holiday with them at the best hotel you had never stayed in. Unfortunately, you never will stay in it. A figment of their imagination David, Steph and co. built a wardrobe full of wonder inspired by a Wes Andersonlike hotel, filled with flamboyant characters and care-free guests, form those who arrived and never left to those who are merely passing through to those in uniform who make the place tick. The sun never disappears behind clouds at Hotel de Luxe, nor does the snow ever melt. If only we could have featured the getaway under the ‘Where’ve been staying’. For now, we’ll wear it.

The Essential Journal | Issue 40

Image credit: Universal Works

THE IMAGE

Issue 40 | The Essential Journal

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no.

17 Andersen-Andersen One Thing Done Well

Our series of brands doing one item especially well continues this month with AndersenAndersen’s cotton crewneck words by Will HALBERT

T

Image credit: Andersen-Andersen

here’s something to be said for a younger brand daring to tap into a legacy without the comfort of a century-long presence to fuel its ageold fire. Call it post-heritage, call it heritage revival, call it whatever you like; it’s tough getting that kind of fire started. Enter AndersenAndersen: A family-owned, Danish company founded by Cathrine Lundgren-Andersen and Peter Kjær-Andersen. Established in 2009, Andersen-Andersen are more of a nascent flame than a raging inferno in the grand scheme of things, but fire is fire.

Not yet a decade old, Andersen-Andersen have garnered quite the following for producing superlative knitwear pieces that wear their classically Danish, maritime inspirations on their worsted wool sleeves. ‘We believe in doing one thing – and doing it well. So we’ve committed to making the world's best sailor sweater.’

A true embodiment of the one thing done well ethos, the Andersen-Andersen cotton crewneck is both a masterfully-spun modern classic and a piece of timeless, Danish craftsmanship. Highgrade and heavyweight by design, the AndersenAndersen crewneck is more akin to chainmaille armour than your average worsted wool number.

Winter armour of the highest quality.

Everything about the crewneck is measured, restrained and painstakingly considered. It’s a staple piece that points to the slow-burning, it’s-ready-when-it’s-ready ethos that AndersenAndersen have spend 10 years perfecting. An understated yet much-appreciated design flourish comes in the form of the crewneck’s symmetrical, front-to-back design. So precise is the sweater’s symmetry that it’s literally impossible to wear the thing backwards.

Designed in Denmark, all Andersen-Andersen garments are knitted and linked at a family-run knitting mill in northern Italy. Their signature yarn is made from worsted, extra spun 100% merino wool, all certified mulesing-free and sourced from Uruguay and Patagonia. This is a pretty big deal: Mulesing is a rather unpleasant (but time and cost effective) process that sees the skin of a sheep’s hindquarters cut away, typically without the aid of painkillers, to prevent infection down the line. To opt out of such a process is further testament to Andersen-Andersen’s slower approach to the craft.

Ethics and patience are seldom-seen as bedmates in the current throes of fast fashion, making Andersen-Andersen a welcomed and refreshing addition to the handful of brands doing things their own way.

Sure, they lack the bragging rights of the agestatements carried by the older, bolder brands on the block, but they’ve proven themselves to be up there with the best of them simply by sticking to their guns. Wise beyond their years, AndersenAndersen have already become torchbearers for trusting in the slower processes, recognizing the worth of the maker, and generally just revelling in the sheer, joyous craft of it all. EJ andersen-andersen.com 10

The Essential Journal | Issue 40

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Talking Shop:

The Hip Store In the sixth part of our regular series, we chat to the guys at The Hip Store’s brand new, three-floor flagship venue in Leeds words by Will HALBERT photography by Thomas SUMNER

S

omething of a Leed’s fashion institution, The Hip Store needs very little introduction. Established over 30 years ago, The Hip Store has gone on to be one of the most respected stores in the casual, streetwear and heritage scenes. With their all-new, three-floor shop now in full swing, we catch up with Robin Jeffrey to talk about the evolution of menswear, and the benefits of a buy less, buy better mentality. EJ

First off, tell us a little about yourself.

I’ve been working for the company for 16 years I think. From when we first started out in Thornton's Arcade. So I’ve made the trip from Thornton’s Arcade, to Trinity, to Vicar Lane, to here. Because I’ve worked for the company for so long, people tend to recognise me. That’s why I tend to spend most of my time on the ground floor, though I do float around the place: It’s nice to welcome in the familiar faces.

How are things at the new store going?

We’ve been here two months now and it’s looking great. Last month was our 35th anniversary, so this is a nice little present to ourselves.

To survive for so long as a smaller, independent business is a real achievement. So we feel very lucky.

And now that we’re bigger, we’re lucky to have maintained the same sense of independence. We still have total freedom over how we operate and buy, we still have our own team of buyers and we’ve built some incredible relationships with the brands that we stock. So these three floors are kind of a celebration of that growth and those relationships.

How are the garments at the higher end of the price scale received?

Naturally, when you’re lucky enough to stock brands like Visvim and Engineered Garments, you’ll always have people come in and go ‘how much?! What’s that all about?!’ And that’s fine, we’re here to educate, after all. Once you explain to people 12

what it is exactly that sets these garments above the rest then there’s a better understanding.

We’re in a great position right now, we’ve got a floor for everybody. You can pick up your t-shirts downstairs for 30 quid or come up here and spend 700-800 quid on a bigger piece. They are investment pieces aren’t they really? That’s how we see it. You know, if you’re coming into town a couple of times a month to buy a couple of t-shirts to refresh your wardrobe then that’s fine. We’ve got that covered too. We don’t expect everyone to come in every couple of weeks to buy a winter jacket.

Would you say that your customers are a little more clued-in to what they are buying?

Oh yeah! For a lot of the guys that shop here, it’s more of a hobby. People get really into particular brands, and they really know their stuff!

Having been around for so long, we’ve seen people rise through the ranks as it were.

We’ve got customers that used to come in 16-17 years ago that now have mortgages and kids. You’d think they’d have less and less money, and some definitely do disappear for a few years until they get their kids shipped off to uni. But they’ll still swing by to pick up some of the bigger releases. As I say, it becomes a bit of a hobby.

Do you think that comes with a certain community aspect? A sort of ‘If you know, you know’ kind of mentality?

[Laughs] There is the odd nod of recognition when you’re spotted in something from Beams or Folk or what have you, because it really takes a keen eye to spot their branding sometimes. But generally it’s not all that pretentious. Yeah, you do need to educate people sometimes, but that’s a great part of the job. Some people will come in and will be amazed by a price and it’s up to you to explain why that piece is worth that sort of money and the design process behind it and fabrics that are used, and its cost effective to buy it The Essential Journal | Issue 40

STYLE

because you will make sure you wear that as opposed to chucking it in the wardrobe and never seeing it again.

Is that education side of things ever a challenge?

As long as you have staff in that know what they’re talking about you’re sorted. And we definitely have that. Just play it cool play it natural. No one wants to be forced into a purchase, and no one wants to sound like a used car salesman. So it pays to have a genuine interest in what you’re selling. It’s easy to sell someone on the virtues of something you know and love yourself!

How do you pick your staff?

[Laughs] A lot of them used to shop here! I know they say never employ a customer because you lose that customer, but you can’t beat people who already have a genuine understanding of what the shop is about.

They get what we’re doing, and they know how to pass that passion on to others, because it’s a genuine passion. We’ve often asked a few of our regular customers if they’d like to do a little stint with us over Christmas or what have you, just because they’re really into the brands and they’re chatty and approachable.

Where does The Hip Store fit in with the idea of buying less but buying better?

It’s how we’ve always operated. You don’t need to have a lot of things in your wardrobe. Just build towards a nice capsule wardrobe, you know?

You’ve got a pair of jeans, a smart pair of white pumps, a pair of chinos a tool jacket, a couple of nice shirts a couple of t-shirts.

In this day and age it’s easy to move things on, so it’s in with one and out with another. If you feel like you want to get rid of something, you can give it to a friend or stick it up on the internet or whatever. You can get rid of it and that funds the next purchase right? It didn’t used to be quite like that, you’d probably have taken it to a charity shop.

Have you noticed any big changes in customer traits over the years?

That’s a bit weird actually: Everything used to be quite label orientated. Not so much any more.

I mean, people still buy into certain brands but they don’t want to see their branding splashed all over the garment. The rise of Scandinavian brands like Our Legacy and Norse Projects have ushered in a more minimal, less-is-more attitude.

Do you have a particular stand out customer who is a bit of a character?

Loads! You can’t be in this business for this amount of time without a few stand outs. I like to think we recognise people day in day out in store.

We’re on a first name basis with a lot of our customers.

We’ve got certain people that Issue 40 | The Essential Journal

we know that when a certain range comes in, bits will be put away because we know that so and so will like this, so and so will like that. So it’s almost like personal shopping in a way. And they appreciate that as well. That happens day in day out.

Do you notice any trends coming through in Leeds and beyond?

Slimmer trousers are on the way out. We’ve been saying this for the last two or three years. People are starting to favour wider and shorter cuts. We knew that maybe three years ago, but it always take a while to filter down to the consumer level.

And that’s funny because it took so long to get guys into slimmer jeans.

When you’ve been in this business for as long as I have, you can really start to see the cycle. Things going out of fashion for a bit and then cycling right back in. And that’s why we say don’t throw anything away: Keep hold of it all, it’ll come back around!

Our basement floor is quite amazing in that respect actually.

You have a lot of outdoor pieces that have become fashionable by default

"You don’t need to have a lot of things in your wardrobe. Just build towards a nice capsule wardrobe, you know?

You’ve got a pair of jeans, a smart pair of white pumps, a pair of chinos and a tool jacket, a couple of nice shirts and a couple of t-shirts"

haven’t they? Brands like Battenwear, Manastash, Patagonia. Look how big Patagonia has become in the past 5 or 6 years. I was brought up in the Lakes so for me it was almost like a right of passage. You got to a certain age and you were given your Patagonia, that was your first coat.

Same with Barbour. Clarks as well - they were the smart and practical option as a kid, but that’s a different story now. We’ve got a Clarks x Wu Tang collaboration downstairs! The evolution of it all is amazing.

What are the stand out collaborations that you’ve done over the years?

Oh, we’ve done a fair few, and I think we’ll be looking a doing a few more down the line. Not my decision at the end of the day; it’s down to the buyers and powers that be. But yeah we’ve done a few Norse Projects colabs before, two or three Universal Works collabs too. We’re hoping to work with a few footwear brands somewhere down the line too. When you’re a smaller shop it can be hard because you’re expected to buy a

certain amount of stock. But we’ve grown up a lot over the last 30 years, we’re bigger now, so it’s exciting to explore those collaborative opportunities a little more So say someone walks in for the first time, they’re new to it all.

How would you kit them out?

It's horses for courses really! But I’d always work towards a capsule wardrobe. But that’s where the three floors come in. There’s something for every style and budget. If you don’t want to spend an awful lot of money you might buy a pair of Novestas downstairs. If you want to spend big you might buy a pair of Common Projects upstairs. If you want to buy some jeans you might buy a pair of APC denim up here or you might buy Edwin or Lee downstairs. Plain white t-shirts, Carhartt downstairs, APC up here. Everyone is different. That’s the beauty of working in this industry.

www.thehipstore.co.uk 13

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A fond look back at Ben Sherman’s tributes to the soul boys and soul girls of yesteryear words by Ralph CANIS

F

or over 50 years, Ben Sherman has been synonymous with some of the North’s most vivid and vibrant musical subcultures. 2018 provided a heartfelt return to those rich, cultural roots as Ben Sherman teamed up with two of the North’s most influential photographers to celebrate one of music’s most fashionforward and dance-centric subcultures, Northern Soul.

Kicking off in Liverpool, a city that experienced a second wave of music domination in the 70s and 80s, crowds flocked to Ben Sherman’s Liverpool ONE store for an evening of conversation with acclaimed photographer, Francesco Mellina. The Italianborn, honorary scouser played a key role in documenting some of Liverpool’s most iconic musical subcultures with his candid, in-thethick-of-it photography.

The evening was a roaring success, with fashion enthusiasts and music lovers alike joining in celebration of Mellina’s work. And with a little help from London-based craft brewers, Fourpure, all those in attendance were able to raise a glass to the North’s unwavering individuality and enduring musical heritage.

Further south, the creative brains behind a host of the 90s most iconic album artworks, Brian Cannon joined an audience of colourful ‘old-boys and girls’ at Ben Sherman’s Commercial Street store, London, for an evening of catch ups, tall tales and friendly heckles.

Born and bred in Wigan, Lancashire, Brian spoke of the chance meetings with the likes of Richard Ashcroft and the Gallagher brothers that lead to the creation of some of the UK’s most pin-up-able rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia.

However, it wasn’t only Brian and his accolades that were on show in Shoreditch that evening, as attendees of all heritages turned out to rep subcultures past and present.

Supported by London’s own Hackney Brewing, the beers on offer were very much in keeping with the vibrant-yet-timeless style and grace of the guests in attendance. EJ

'...all those in attendance were able to raise a glass to the North’s unwavering individuality and enduring musical heritage.'

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24 Brook Street, London, W1K 5DG

www.johnsmedley.com

Issue 40 | The Essential Journal

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RETROSPECTIVE

A Year in Review We catch up with the class of 2018 to celebrate their major achievements, glean a thing or two from their lessons learnt and get the latest on what they have in store for 2019

words by Will HALBERT

Fashion

Tommy Kerns ButterScotch LBC

on my rent cheques and now it’s already 2019. Time flies when you are having fun (or maybe it's when you are insanely busy) but that's how I like it. ButterScotch 2019 - More action, more motorcycles, more clothing, like the sequel to 2018 but maybe a cameo with Ryan Gosling, that’d be pretty tight, right?

For 2019 I’m more aligned with facilities here in Los Angeles to really start focusing on growing the ButterScotch Brand and building pieces I’m passionate about and am not finding in the market. I really love the process of creating something from nothing and adding my own spin to things. We are also working on an array of collab items and possibly even some new brands for the shop as well. Real excited about all that. 2019 is just onward and upward. Hopefully more growth both personally and professionally. More reach and ultimately just meeting more people just as excited about the shop, the brand and the community we are trying to grow here not only in LBC but globally.

Fashion

Russ Gator TSPTR

W

e were lucky enough to chat with Russ ahead of his talk at Somerset House in Issue 39. Russ now gives his highlights of 2018 and provides a glimpse into what’s next for TSPTR. What would you consider to be TSPTR's standout achievements in 2018?

I guess on a personal level we’ve been extremely happy to be involved with the Somerset House Peanuts exhibition. It reinforces the Peanuts stories we’ve been telling for years and we’re glad to get Schulz’s wider concepts in front of people.

Tommy Kerns

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e spoke to Tommy Kerns - proud owner of fashion and lifestyle store Butterscotch out in Long Beach - back in Issue 35. We catch up on his plans for the year to come.

ButterScotch turned one this year.

What are the most important lessons you’ve learned during your first year of business?

Man oh man, it's been a year already? It has flown by but at the same time I may have just aged 30 years myself. The amount of things I have learned this year is honestly a bit endless. But if I can put it in a few bullet points that is the god's honest truth: • take risks, • learn something from each day, • believe in what you do, • treat people the way you would want to be treated • and honestly just be grateful.

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I am grateful to be at the place in my life right now with ButterScotch and yeah, I have worked my tail off day after day, night after night, but none of that would matter if it wasn't for the people walking through the door each day, dialoguing on social media, and shopping our online store.

I’ve learned people respect and appreciate a labor of love because we are all going through it in one way or another. Every day is a new experience and honestly each day owning ButterScotch I’m learning something new, from production and sourcing here in Los Angeles, to marketing, to understanding how to run a business more effectively as a one man team just trying to do that damn thing.

Are there any shop collaborations you're particularly proud of?

Every single damn one of them.

I’m working with some of greatest brands on planet Earth that I have

fan boy’d over for years and dreamed of owning in my own personal closet.

Now I’m getting to work with these staple brands and they are letting some dude from Long Beach create something with both our names on it. Never in a million years did I think I would be saying I have a collab leather with Vanson Leathers & Left Field NYC or a weekender bag with Billykirk or a full custom boot from Oak Street Bookmakers. Let’s not forget our partnership with RoughChild Moto, who is now building one off Custom BMW motorcycles for the shop and the Vintage motorcycle enthusiasts all over the world.

But it's happening and every time I think about it I grin ear to ear and say ‘wow’. 2018 was just the start, I can’t wait to show you what we have cooking for 2019.

What's next for ButterScotch in 2019?

I feel like I just started writing 2018

Tell us a little bit about your 2018 collaborations.

We’ve been stoked to work with Eric at Rivendell again this year. Their product really is unparalleled and unchanged. We previously had the pleasure of collaborating with them as Heritage Research, so wanted to do something with TSPTR. They have such a purist ethos when it comes to the gear, totally unaffected by trend or opinion, very refreshing.

Our collab sneakers with Standard & Strange were fun to make too, we’ve been working with John Lofgren for around 14 years now, so it’s an easy process that always creates a fantastic product. We’d wanted to use the USMC leaf pattern camo for a while so it was a great vehicle for it.

Do you have any projects lined up in 2019 that you can tell us about?

We’re excited to launch our first collab with Saucony. We’re big fans of the brand and their silhouettes. A genuine running brand that's sat on the periphery of fashion but always been at the centre of the running community. Our collab focuses on

trying to recreate that feeling of opening an original pair of running shoes in the golden era of running.

We spent a lot of time working on the finer details, it really isn’t a hype shoe, so don’t expect crazy colorways based around ridiculous concepts like the ‘what I had for breakfast’ pack, we’ve tried to make a shoe that’s the antithesis of all that.

Fashion

Ricki Hall & David Rix Indigo & Goods You've always been a huge believer in locally-made goods, will that continue to be a focus next year?

Absolutely. We will expand both the RH GYM and Full English collections to include other items and fabrics made in England. Where possible working with small family run businesses up and down the country.

Any personal highlights from over the course of 2018?

It was satisfying to introduce the Full English collection. Initially we had intended to have the entire collection spun in the UK. Although time wise it wasn’t possible to create every garment like this, our knit items were. Our 'Ultimate' garments have cotton spun in a factory in Manchester. We then take this spun yarn to have it knitted in Leicester with the final garment being made in another factory close by. Sounds easy but far from it!

"The name ‘Full English’ comes from the solid worker’s breakfast that we all know and love."

Tell us a little about your latest Full English Collection.

The name ‘Full English’ comes from the solid worker’s breakfast that we all know and love. It also explains our garments, which are fully made in England too.

Inspired by classic work and utility clothing. Amongst others, we have the Prison shirt and trousers made from cotton twill, woven in Lancashire with garment made in London. Unfussy, honest and well made styles ‘made with conviction’ as our London factory likes to say.

Seriously though, it’s not just about the clothing, it’s the story too. We work with small factories that have quickly become good friends of ours.

We feel this is the only way to make a truly ‘authentic’ garment.

Any big plans for 2019?

Tapping into the Japanese market will be a big goal for us over the next year.

The Essential Journal | Issue 40

RETROSPECTIVE

Fashion Fashion

Oliver Spencer Oliver Spencer

Image Credit: Jack Finnegan (Tommy Banks Portrait)

How do you think the attitude towards high street shopping has changed over the course of the year?

Poor service on the high street and poor products on the high street have led people to sit back in their armchair and consume products from the safety of their own homes.

This is a real problem for the high street, it needs to improve its standards and deliver a better quality of experience for the customer.

Do you think the subject of sustainability has played a bigger role in how people shop this year?

For the first half of the year, people were not particularly aware of what was going on. Second half of the year, more people have been talking about it, it has become a hotter topic.

Our job as a brand is to tell a story and to change the mind-set of the way people shop, so that they shop in a more responsible way. I believe it is changing and I think people are becoming more considerate.

What have you been listening to since we last spoke?

I am going through a moment of listening to Thomas Dolby.

He is quite famous for his 80s stuff but actually some of his more recent music is very good, especially the ‘Live From Tokyo’ album that came out in 2012.

Fashion

Ben Sherman What was a major Ben Sherman achievement in 2018?

The events we ran with Essential Journal including the Q&A with Brian Cannon at our commercial street store and the pop up exhibition with acclaimed photographer Francesco Mellina at our Liverpool store.

Both events have seen us reengage with the subculture Ben Sherman is known for.

Who has been your favourite collaborator in 2018 and how did the collab come about?

Our favourite collab has to be Brian Cannon. As a graphic designer Brian is iconic and getting the opportunity to work with someone who’s work is so well known in pop culture was a real honour.

In collaboration with Brian we produced a limited edition tee collection using images from Brian’s Northern Soul photography series which are really iconic.

What are your top three records from 2018?

We’ve not stopped listening to Robyn, Honey. Christine and the Queens, Chris Andersson Pak, Oxnard.

Issue 40 | The Essential Journal

James Fox Crockett & Jones What are your stand-out moments for 2018?

Bricks and mortar retail has seen its worst year pretty much across the board. However, Crockett & Jones seems to be bucking the trend.

Whilst we remain inline to last year in our own stores, this gives us great confidence in our strategy to offer an honest, high quality product with ‘made in England’ value for money – quite rare in the UK today.

We released the most successful capsule collections in our recent history – Cranleigh and The Black Editions. Our Parisian retail stores celebrated their 20th anniversary, a year after the UK. Finally, we are also about to feature in the much anticipated Mary Poppins.

Is there a particular shoe that’s proven to be a hit this year?

Crockett & Jones operates in the slower end of fashion, where purchases are considered and the retail process appreciated. That does not mean trends are not important. It results in a two pronged development strategy – Repeat Business and New Business. Our repeat business is always the strongest and there is no doubt that because of the way our consumers interact with us, our BIG name styles are the front runners.

Styles such as Coniston, Pembroke and Chiltern, to name but a few on our vast list of 'icons’ are the bedrock of our business.

Crockett and Jones’ Black Edition was a pretty audacious departure from the C&J style.

Our brand has never been stronger, and whilst we heavily rely on our iconic styles our made-to-order collection gives us great scope to showcase the international nature and creativity of our business (65% export). With that, we attract an international customer base into our own retail stores and thus we can showcase an extremely broad collection. The Black Editions filled a trend-driven gap in our collection that coupled a very chunky, but lightweight sole with a host of black materials. It was no surprise that our strongest category was ‘boots’ – The Chelsea XI is on a few of our customers’ Christmas lists this year!

Food & Drink

Tommy Banks How do you retain a Michelin Star?

The most important thing is actually getting a good team together. The thing about Michelin Star food above anything is that it is extremely consistent. You shouldn’t go to a Michelin Star restaurant and have a bad meal, and so the only way to get consistency is to have a very strong team. For us, we open 7 days a week so we have to have a squad like Man City, where we have two 11s that

Tommy Banks

can really play. Getting a good team together is the main thing.

If you’re anywhere near that style of cooking you obviously know how to do it and you can cook in a good way, but it’s being able to replicate it. From a business point of view you can’t do that without good people.

It really takes time. We’ve got some really good guys, but it takes time to really build a team with real depth and I think that’s the main thing.

What lessons did you learn from opening Roots?

So many! The first few days I was finishing at three in the morning and then starting again at seven. Then the average day was getting better, it was coming down to 2AM and then 1AM and now we finish at a normal hour like 11:30PM or something.

So things get better. It’s not that I underestimated how difficult it is to open a second restaurant, but you can’t begin to imagine just how much

hard work goes into it.

If I did it again, I maybe would take an extra week, push it back by a week and take some more time. You have a plan. You have every single thing nailed down, this is what’s going to happen here, here and here, and this is when we’re going to open, but something always comes up. So I guess it’s plan for the unexpected.

Where are you looking forward to eating in 2019?

So I’m 30 next year and this past year has been all graft. I haven’t had a holiday since last January, I had two days away with Charlotte (Tommy’s partner), that’s it. I’ve worked at the Black Swan, I’ve been setting up Roots, I’ve done a bit of TV, it’s been all work. So I’m planning on having a few breaks in 2019, taking a few holidays.

There’s three places on my radar in the UK. There’s Moor Hall over in Lancashire which won two stars this

year, Mark Birchall [is the chef]. My folks went there last year and loved it. They are like the pickiest people and I know full well, as they come to the restaurants to eat every week and always find a problem. They went to eat at Moor Hall and I went, ‘go on then, tell me what was wrong with it’ and they were like, ‘no, it was absolutely perfect’. So I am definitely going there.

Second place is down in Wales, I think it’s pronounced ‘ee-ne-eesee-her’, Ynyshir, and it’s a place that all my staff keep going. The chef is Gareth Ward and he fills you with like 15 or 20 courses or something and all my chefs keep going and telling me how amazing it is. So I’m going to have to go.

And the third place, I’ve never been to Cornwall, so I’ve said this year I’m going to go down in the summer and go visit Paul Ainsworth because I think his food looks great.

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RETROSPECTIVE

Food & Drink

PUBLIC

H

ands down one of our favourite bars, PUBLIC have been on quite the role since we spoke to them in Issue 37.

What are Public's highlights from 2018?

It's been a remarkable first year for us, winning OFM's 'Best Place to Drink 2018' is certainly the highlight.

You guys have recently started taking bookings, how is that working so far?

We put it out there for the customers to have their opinions too. We weren't the ones standing in the queue on Friday and Saturday nights.

It's been a huge success, people can plan their visits and we've seen a rise in the food revenue because of that.

We still keep a few spots at the bar for the adventurous.

How's the new cocktail menu coming along? Any stand-out cocktails that come to mind?

It's all ready to go. My personal favourite is one based around a chippy tea. More on that to come though.

Any big plans for Public in 2019 that you can tell us about?

Besides the new menu launch, we've got a couple of upcoming collaborations. One with the guys over at Belzan, Liverpool, on the 15th and 16th of January - which we can't wait for.

Food & Drink

Lillet Festive French Fancies

Jason & Stef The Pilgrm

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e checked in with the team behind London boutique hotel, The Pilgrm.

The Pilgrm recently celebrated its first birthday. What lessons have you learnt in the first year of operation?

ST: There have been so many valuable lessons in the most unexpected places and I’m learning all the time. For me, the key ones have been to live in the moment, focus on one thing at a time and keep things simple.

JC: That people are always at the core of everything we do in this business. Not so much a new lesson but more a confirmation that the human experience far outweighs anything else. Never overlook the human potential.

What other achievements have you celebrated this year?

ST: It’s amazing to think how much has happened in one year. Shortly after opening The Pilgrm, I married my better half (who also happens to be called Steph!) and our baby girl, Elia, was born. It’s been a year of celebrations and very little sleep.

JC: The Pilgrm opening was the single biggest achievement which was celebrated (on a few occassions) 18

PUBLIC | Bottom right, clockwise, Jason, Managing Director of the Pilgrm | Steph, Managing Director of the Pilgrm | Pilgrm Dining Hall

but receiving the recognition we did was very humbling too.

"We will continue to develop, refine, grow!"

What's in the planning for 2019?

ST: The Pilgrm journey has just begun. There are so many exciting ideas and opportunities that we are exploring. We will continue to develop, refine, grow, and - of course - have a lot of fun along the way!

JC: 2019 will be about finessing The Pilgrm no. 1 and allowing the team to grow whilst no. 2 or 3 are being explored.

We are also developing a new brand which is based on the idea of shared hotel spaces at great value which the quality of materials and services on offer are never compromised.

his Christmas, Lillet is here to help you treat your guests with a truly festive moment. From personal shopping soirées with Topshop, to floral wreath-making at Liverpool’s very own little French fancy, Le Petit Café du Coin, Lillet has proved itself to be quite the entertainer over the last 12 months. For a year now, the Bordelais wine-based aperitif has wowed The Essential Journal not only with its floral charm and silky decadent flourish, but also with its endless versatility.

And with Christmas just around the corner, Sainsbury’s is on hand to help bring Lillet home this year. Whether you’re looking for a last minute gift for that special someone, or looking to wow guests with your newfound cocktail skills, Sainsbury’s have the classic Lillet Blanc and all-new Lillet Rosé you need to help you celebrate à la française this festive season.

AVALIABLE AT

@LILLET

@LILLET

PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY

The Essential Journal | Issue 40

Image Credits: India Hobson

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Food & Drink

RETROSPECTIVE

Culture

Watches

Image Credits: Milo Hutchings

John Robinson D.M Robinson Jewellers

Andreas Neumann What are your highlights from 2018?

A definite highlight for me was documenting both the Queens of the Stone Age European tour and the West Coast leg of the tour. Looking back, it was quite a ride! I photographed over 30 concerts. I traveled with the band on the tour bus through Europe and the USA which nobody ever had done with the Queens.

What would you consider to be your major achievements of 2018?

It’s been a year of landmarks for us!

My team were voted the No. 1 store in Liverpool ONE (out of 128 stores).

Rolex ranked us as their top Rolex Authorised Dealer in terms of digital sales.

We saw more and more of our jewellery being worn by some very stylish women, and we helped the Onside Youth Charity to grow their projects in both the North West and London.

What are you most excited about for 2019?

Our all-new 5000 sq ft DMR showroom will open in St Ann’s Square, Manchester in Spring 2019.

It will be the centrepiece of our 50th anniversary celebrations and it will be one of the UK’s most innovative retail spaces featuring a dedicated Rolex espace and a very private VIP space, right in the heart of the city centre. Watchmakers and goldsmiths studios will play a big part in offering a genuinely friendly luxury retail experience.

GMT from Rolex was the big news for this year, and the explosion in the desirability of Rolex professional models continues. The Paul Newman Rolex Daytona sold for $14m in New York. Expect more of the same for next year. Tudor will continue to boom.

Patek Philippe will cement their position as the collectors favourite, dominating, with Rolex, at all the major auctions. Omega’s celebration of the Moon Watch will capture imaginations.

People will continue to want the best quality of everything.

Quite refreshing in our “throw away world”.

Any highlights touring with Queens of the Stone Age? Oh for sure! I mean, there are a fair few. Back in February, QOTSA’s played at the Forum LA to a sold-out show with a crowd 10,000 strong.

We filmed the whole thing. It’s in the editing room at the moment with no definite release plan. It’ll stay locked away in the vault until Josh feels the time is right to release it, but I’ve gotta say: It’s a killer!

And do you have any upcoming projects for 2019 that you can tell us about?

Well, at long last, we will finally be releasing the Iggy Pop American Valhalla coffee table book. Expect a whole bunch of unseen photographs covering the whole creative process of the Post Pop Depression album and the subsequent tour. I’ll also be launching a photography exhibition showcasing the best of my work from throughout Queens of the Stone Age ‘Villains’ tour. Watch this space.

Culture

Joe Shutter

J

Top: MUTT | Haarkon, Phaidon

Culture

Culture

Alex Turner MUTT What is MUTT's biggest achievement of 2018?

We took a deep breath and made the jump! MUTT was set up almost 2 years ago while we were working elsewhere, and 2018 marks the year we dedicated full attention to the practice. In that time we have set up offices in Liverpool and London and have completed exciting projects in London, the Lake District and even Mexico City!

What's the biggest lesson learnt from 2018?

We have worked with a number of inspiring clients this year and now truly understand the link between good clients and the creation of good architecture.

Through close, collaborative working relationships we have Issue 40 | The Essential Journal

oe Shutter served as the celluloid inspiration for Issue 37’s photography theme. We dropped him a line to discuss what’s next for the creative entrepreneur.

been able to push the original brief, challenge preconceptions and create unique, bespoke projects.

What is an architectural concern for 2019 and how will you combat it?

Our concern for 2019 is broad but fundamental: architecture is at risk of dehumanising itself.

The issue stems from a seemingly paradoxical industry in pursuit of radical newness at times and risk-averse sameness at others.

Both diversions create architecture which lacks meaningful engagement with the character of the site and, as such, fails to communicate with the people for whom it is intended.

Our remedy? To counter this, as MUTT we aim to find the ‘peculiarity of place’ in all projects, using research, sampling and remixing as design approaches to engage with a site on a deeper level and create an architecture in dialogue with its physical and metaphysical context.

Haarkon

F

eatured in issue 38, visual storytellers India Hobson and Magnus Edmondson revel in fond memories and revel in future plans.

Greenhouse was your first published book: What lessons did you learn from it?

It was a long but very rewarding process and it's great to see our work out there in printed form.

Between me and you, we're already thinking about a second book. It's all very exciting.

Do you have any standout trips or stays from 2018?

I mean, there are a lot to choose from! One of the many highlights of this year, if we had to narrow it down, would be our short trip to Småland in Sweden during the Autumn.

It was our first time visiting that country and we can't wait to explore it all again.

'Between me and you, we're already thinking about a second book.

It's all very exciting.'

Any big projects for 2019 that you can let us in on?

We're just organising a trip to Japan for the spring, as it happens, so we're deep in research mode looking for places to visit.

What have been your highlights from 2018?

I would say that there have been two main highlights in 2018: Opening The Space, Reykjavik, and leading our expedition to Greenland. Both within three months of each other!

And how are things going over at The Space?

The Space is going very well, and we are focussing increasingly on hosting weekly events and workshops. The emphasis has been on skills and activities-based workshops like calligraphy and wreath making for Christmas. We have also hosted movie screenings of locals film-makers and are planning a big Instagram Hackathon for March 2019.

How are things shaping up for the Silent Arctic Workshop?

The last workshop was a roaring success! We’ve not even officially announced the latest Silent Arctic 2019, and yet we’ve already and sold 5 places! So it's going very well, and August 28th will come up fast!

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STYLE

A Cut Above

Tailored Thoughts on:

This month, Ian Harrold

The Modern Gentlemen

ponders his year in review and the lessons learned so far words by Ian HARROLD

This month Huntsman Cutter and resident Essential Journal columnist, Matthew Gonzalez ponders what it means to be a gentleman in 2019 words by Matthew GONZALEZ

W

hat does it mean to be a gentleman these days? The word itself seems relatively straightforward, it’s a kind or good natured man, however, culturally speaking, it seems to mean so much more. It still tends to evoke images of slender, attractive and slightly aloof, aristocratic young men from the 1930’s who were permanently outfitted in either a dinner suit or their country tweed. Men whose lives revolved around copious amounts of champagne & distilled spirits, fine food and doing what ever they liked without a care in the world, because they would rarely get in trouble for anything they did. Think of the young men who made up Oxford’s Bullingdon Club or practically any male character from an Evelyn Waugh novel. They are hardly the kind of men we should use to model ourselves after. Today as gender roles and class distinctions continue to melt away we need to take a moment and reflect on how to be a modern gentleman without acting like some kind of Edwardian toff.

Manners still do maketh the man, that familiar phrase maybe around 500 years old but it is more true today than when it was written by Eton’s old head master William Horman.

One of the problems with the old world aristocratic gentleman that we see portrayed in popular culture is that it had much more to do with class status and “breeding” then it did with the quality of one’s character. Literary figures like Pip and Joe from Dickens’ ‘Great Expectation’ perfectly articulates this point. Joe the blacksmith’s humble decency throughout the novel is starkly contrasted by a grown up Pip who, elevated to the world of Londons elite gentry class, became resentful of his old friend and even disgusted by the identity of his secretive benefactor. Dickens masterfully illustrates the importance of kindness and respect over the decadence of material objects.

With that in mind it is important to note that manners have evolved over the years.

Chivalry has changed and many of the things that we may have been taught as young children or seen in films simply do not apply to the modern man. A part of being a gentleman in the 21st century means acknowledging some of the outdated expectations of men and women and fully embracing the fundamental notion of equal respect for all.

Being a modern gentleman means recognising the structural inequalities which are ingrained in our society in order for us to move beyond them. It means no longer treating women as second class citizens by labelling them as delicate, cute or bossy. Those kinds of words only serve to create hierarchies which put men at the top when a true gentleman knows that diversity and equality is far more beneficial for everyone in the long run.

This, however, goes way beyond gender roles. Gentlemen these days come from all walks of life, from every income level, ethnic background, political affiliation and religious belief. So being a gentleman is a tacit recognition of the importance of others. That the richness of our culture is found with in its diversity of thought. It’s about being open to new ideas and different opinions. It is about accepting that what we believe is just as valuable as the beliefs of others. Such a level of respect shown towards others can only derive from a strong sense of respect for oneself and an element of gratitude for what you have, without that, a man can at best drift through life in a constant search for his own beliefs and identity.

We can all too easily associate being a gentleman with a certain look or style and there are a myriad of books that cover the basic rules of ettiequte for men, like what to wear to certain events, how to write a formal letter/email or even how to set a table for a dinner party. While those kinds of tips and guides are fun to read and can even be helpful for a specific instance it is not what makes a man a gentleman. If we were to strip back all of the glamours and elegant facades of the old world gentleman that we imagine in our heads we hope to be left with a man who is decent, kind, polite and respectful to all who he meets.

So regardless of whether you wear a suit everyday or your profession is considered blue or white collar, as long as you respect others and expect it in return you will be unmistakably a gentleman. MG

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A

s the year draws to a close and we start to get all nostalgic over the last 12 months, I thought it might be useful to round up some of the points that I’ve tried to drive home over the last few columns. So here’s a few tidbits of advice that ranges from the insightful to the downright anecdotal. But then, I suppose that’s exactly what advice is really, isn’t it?

Vaguely insightful anecdotes. Anyway, here goes:

'Today as gender roles and class distinctions continue to melt away we need to take a moment and reflect on how to be a modern gentlemen without acting like some kind of Edwardian toff.'

#1 - DON’T ASK, DON’T GET Be open and honest about the style you want from your barber. Don’t be the guy who sits in the barber chair with some radical re-style on their mind that’s too shy to ask for it. Get their advice on whether they think it’ll work for you. It’s what we’re here for after all. #2 - CHANGE CAN BE A GOOD THING I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again: As barbers, we want to give you the best version of the haircut that you’ve chosen. But if we can nudge you out of your comfort zone every once in a while, that’s a bonus too. Don’t be afraid to try new things, question your barber a little, and take a few tentative steps out of that comfort zone. You might find it paying off more than you think. #3 - LESS IS OFTEN MORE Remember: There’s nothing wrong with longer styles (especially in current climates), but keeping things short is also keeping things simple and time effective. Surprisingly, shorter styles also have added benefits for those a little more follically challenged.

Do yourself a favour: Avoid the combover and ask your barber for something tight and short. It’s a great look that avoids any unnecessary, comb-over faff. #4 - DON’T BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU SEE ON INSTAGRAM This one isn’t just for the upcoming barbers, it applies to everyone. Instagram is a wonderful tool when used intelligently. But in a lot of cases - regardless of your profession - Instagram’s filter-heavy illusions of success often make everything look easier than it actually is. Stay clear of the hype, and remember that you can’t pay bills with likes and ‘exposure’. #5 - GROOMING AIN’T TABOO Men are spending more time and money on the way they look and feel, and that’s a great thing. Don’t get hung up on other people’s perceptions of what it means to be manly.

Moisturising,manicures, hell, even manscaping. It’s all fair game. There’s nothing wrong with a guy taking pride in their appearance. #6 - IF ALL ELSE FAILS, BECOME A FLORIST Of course, what I really mean by this is that it always pays to have a plan B. But feel free to read into this is a literal sense too. I mean honestly, you’ll never see anyone sad to see a flower. Unless you suffer from crippling hayfever, that is.

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Say hello to a world of fine whisky and spirits

Tell us a little about yourself.

My name’s Chris, I’m the store manager here at The Whisky Exchange, and I’ve been with the company for around 12 years now.

FITZROVIA RESERVE Choose from our rotating selection of Fitzrovia Reserves and have your bottle filled before your very eyes. With demijohns full of caskstrength whiskies, exclusive rums, and fine Cognacs, you’re sure to find something you love.

Filling a bottle from our demijohns is as close as you can get to drinking your favorite spirits straight from the source at the distillery. And at full cask strength, these bottles are as intense as they are exclusive.

CHRIS BOLTON

What’s the best thing about working at The Whisky Exchange?

It sounds like a bit of a cliché, but it really does feel like one big family.

I mean, at its heart, The Whisky Exchange is a family-owned, family-run business. So it’s amazing to feel a part of that.

W

elcome to the Whisky Exchange Fitzrovia. Here, you’ll find two floors filled to the brim with all things wild and wonderful from the world of whisky and beyond. From age-old Cognacs to rare gins, from fine wines to great beers, The Whisky Exchange is a veritable treasure trove of dream drams, scintillating sips and luxurious liquids. Whether you're looking for something to bring to the party or keep to yourself, something to pass down or pay forward, our dedicated team of drinks experts are on hand to help you find your perfect bottle of something special.

On the ground floor you’ll find our staggering selection of fine spirits, wine, Champagne and beer. Boasting one of London's biggest selections of gin, a carefully-curated collection of Cognacs, Armagnacs, and wines (selected by our head buyer Dawn Davies MW), and a selection of craft beers from London brewers and beyond, our ground floor offers up variety and virtuosity in equal measure. Fans of Tequila, mezcal, sake, and rum will find themselves right at home here too.

If you're a whisky or whiskey fan, then head downstairs to experience the wonders of our whisky cellar. With a huge array of whiskies from around the world, from Scotland to America, Ireland, India, Japan and further afield, there's always something new to find.

Rounding things off with barware, glasses, hip flasks, decanters, books and a range of cigars, The Whisky Exchange Fitzrovia is your new favourite drinks shop.

Pop by and say hello.

“ From age-old

Cognacs to rare gins, from fine wines to great

beers, The Whisky Exchange is a

veritable treasure trove of

dream drams, scintillating sips and luxurious liquids.

What do you look for in your staff?

Product knowledge is important but passion is everything. All of our staff are passionate about spirits and wine, they have a keen interest in what we stock and that interest is pretty infectious.

We also strive to be as approachable and helpful as possible. We understand that the world of fine spirits can be a little overwhelming and not everyone is a connoisseur.

So regardless of whether you’re an aficionado or just browsing for a present, we’re here to help and guide our customers. It’s what sets us apart.

How do you keep up with it all?

Being one of the leading retailers in the industry helps! We’re lucky enough to have a wonderful relationship with all the brands and suppliers we work with. They’re always on hand to provide training on new products. They keep up to date with visits from Master Distillers and the like, offering training and tasting sessions for all members of staff.

One of the great things about the drinks industry in general is that it’s always moving forward. There’s always something new to learn, new products being made. It’s a very exciting and kinetic industry.

And finally, what are you dramming at the moment?

It honestly depends on my mood, the occasion and the company I’m in! But single malts are a personal favourite for me. Springbank offers a warm welcome to a spectrum of whisky varieties. Lagavulin is my go-to for the smoke, naturally. And Glendronach is a no-brainer if I’m looking for something full-bodied and sherried.

thewhiskyexchange.com

The Whisky Exchange Fitzrovia

INDEPENDENT SPIRIT Welcome to the world of independent single malt whisky bottlings

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INDY SPOTLIGHT A few of our current favourite bottlers & their must-try drams Signatory Clynelish 1996, 21 Year Old TWE Exclusive £119 Founded in 1988 by Andrew Symington, Signatory has upheld a reputation for consistently selecting and releasing excellent drams. These days, the company also owns Edradour distillery in Pitlochry, and it’s not unheard of to find Andrew running the stills and stalking around the warehouses choosing the next whiskies to bottle.

This Clynelish was bottled for The Whisky Exchange by Signatory in celebration of the 10th edition of The Whisky Show in London. Ageing in a sherry butt has added layers of dried fruit and spice, but without hiding classic Clynelish fresh fruit character.

An excellent balancing act.

Single Malts of Scotland

‘I

like to think of independent bottlings as the b-sides and rarities of the whisky world,’ says Fitzrovia store manager, Chris Bolton. It’s a wonderful analogy, one that perfectly encapsulates the unique character and endlessly covetable charm of the independent bottle.

But for a lot of people, the idea of independent bottling remains a little hazy. After all, we know the likes of Lagavulin and Bruichladdich not only for their smoky whiskies, but for their rather picturesque distilleries. The idea of a Lagavulin liquid without the distinctive bottle gets somewhat confusing.

Quite simply, independent bottlers specialise in securing some of the most sought-after and down-right secret liquids from some of Scotland’s most prestigious distilleries. By showcasing both the casks that the distilleries can't release and those that they simply won't, the indies offer a unique and exciting take on whisky as we know it. Better yet, they give us whisky lovers a chance to try a huge range of diverse and wonderfully distinct drams that we’d have no way of sampling otherwise.

From single casks to small-batch single malts; from whiskies that differ from a distillery’s usual character to boutique, bespoke blends; from blended malts and grain whiskies to long-lost expressions from bygone distilleries, independent bottlers search far and wide to bring you the novel, the wonderful and the undeniably quaffable.

The result is a range of whiskies from bottlers such as Elements of Islay, Signatory and Chieftain’s that stray from the beaten path in the best of ways.

In a true celebration of the liquid itself, these rare whiskies are often bottled at cask strength; the indies’ decision not to dilute often resulting in a more full-flavoured intensity. Likewise, many independent bottlers opt out of chill filtering their whisky in favour of maintaining the liquid’s fresh-out-the-cask mouthfeel and aroma.

Sure, they’re not the radio hits you’re used to hearing (catchy though they are). Rather, they’re the lower-key melodies that catch you off-guard, the same-same-but-different demos that wear the passion of their workings on their sleeves. They’re the first presses and the limited releases. Or, like Chris says: They’re the B-sides and the rarities. And you know what? They just might be your new favourite dram.

“

By showcasing both the casks that the distilleries can't release and those that they simply won't, the indies offer a unique and exciting take on whisky as we know it.

Bunnahabhain Marriage 27 Year Old £230 Over the years, Elixir Distillers has been acquiring top quality casks of maturing single malt whisky. Since 2005 many of these casks have been released as ‘The Single Malts of Scotland’. This Bunnahabhain shows a new side to the Single Malts of Scotland range – it's a small-batch vatting of four casks, showing off the blending skills of the Elixir Distillers team. It's a 27-year-old with the four refilled bourbon hogsheads coming from three different vintages. The whisky is fruity and complex, with balanced buttery and spicy notes.

Old Malt Cask Balmenach 2004, 13 Year Old £62.65 As one of the most established brands in the single cask market, Old Malt Cask is one for single malt connoisseurs. Each month, the Hunter Laing tasting panel reviews the company stocks and selects only the highest quality casks, whether that’s from Speyside, Islay, the Lowlands or the Islands. Bottled at 50% strength, Old Malt Cask are firm believers in letting the whisky speak for itself.

Aged for 13 years, this single cask bottling from the Balmenach distillery displays upfront aromas of creamy vanilla and caramel, followed by herbal notes, a touch of candied orange peel, and even a hint of ginger.

4

The Whisky Exchange Fitzrovia

THE FRENCH CONNECTION

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ARMAGNAC AND CALVADOS IN A NUTSHELL Our bitesize guide to two traditional French fancies

Calvados

Armagnac

Delve into the savoir-faire and the je-ne-sais-quoi of two of France’s finest exports: Armagnac and Calvados Calvados has three main production zones: Calvados Pays d’Auge, Calvados and Calvados Domfrontais

Photo credit: BNIArmagnac

Calvados

Factoids

Apple-forward with a touch of pear to boot, Calvados makes a lifted, fragrant and floral addition to your spirit collection

The first mention of Armagnac dates all the way back to 1310, when Prior Vital Dufour wrote a lengthy treaty on medicine in which he laid out the 40 virtues of the French liquid.

Often misunderstood and - until recently - woefully under-quaffed, Calvados deserves more than a dust-laden spot in the deepest, darkest recesses of your grandparents’ alcohol cupboard. Hailing from Normandy, Calvados is distilled from cider made with apples or pears.

While the choice between single (column still) or double (alembic pot still) distillation is left up to the producer, both have their advantages and unique characteristics. Single distillation allows for the fresh, crisp zing of the apples to work their magic, while double distillation (the preferred standard for any Calvados from the Pays d’Auge region) gives a greater scope for ageing.

Despite its age, Calvados ticks a whole lot of boxes for the modern imbiber: it has no added sugar and is naturally low in sulfites. And as if that wasn’t enough, the use of natural yeast makes for a particularly clean cru.

Its endless versatility and distinctive heritage make Calvados a firm favourite on both sides of the bar. A solid solo sipper in its own right, Calvados also stands tall in a cocktail. Take our word for it: A classic Champagne cocktail is positively elevated by the fruit presence and inherent florality of a good Calvados. And yes, it makes for a wonderfully well-rounded highball, too.

Armagnac A powerhouse of a spirit with a truly artisanal charm, Armagnac is surprisingly spritely for France’s oldest Brandy Best described as Cognac’s older, bolder brother, Armagnac offers an interesting alternative to the softer, fruitier roundedness of Cognac. That’s because Armagnac is the product of a single distillation process (unlike the double distillation of its northern counterpart, Cognac). The result is a particularly robust and intense flavour that lends itself extremely well to some serious ageing.

This ageing leads to a more prevalent oak presence than you might find in a Cognac, meaning that the whisky drinkers amongst you will find yourselves right at home with the more rustic charm of an Armagnac.

To this day, Armagnac production remains largely in the hands of small producers rather than the big brands prevalent in Cognac. By all accounts, it’s this small-batch production ethos that gives Armagnac an artisanal edge to match the warming clout of its liquid.

In a true celebration of heritage and terroir, Armagnac has become famous (not to mention a firm favourite at the shop) for its emphasis on vintages.

Here at The Whisky Exchange, we happen to play host to around 30 vintages.

Not that we’re bragging or anything.

It is rumoured that the amount of Armagnac produced in a single year in France is equivalent to the angel’s share (the volume of spirit lost to evaporation) of a year’s production of Cognac.

There are around 300 different varieties of apples available under the Calvados AOC (Appellation d’origine Contrôlée). Distillers can use dozens of different varieties and combinations of apples to make just one single expression of Calvados.

Le trou Normand, or ‘the Norman hole’ is the tradition of taking a small drink of Calvados between the courses of a long meal in order to reawaken the appetite.

By law, Calvados must be produced in the Calvados region of Normandy

A as Armagnac is a grape brandy

The three most common age grades in Armagnac are: Trois Étoiles, or VS (at least two years of ageing), VSOP (at least three years), XO (at least ten years)

The Whisky Exchange Fitzrovia

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5

Dawn Davies, Master of Wine and Head Buyer of The Whisky Exchange, offers up her top Calvados is split into three primary age grades: Trois Étoiles or Trois Pommes (a minimum of two to three years old), VSOP or VO (four years) and Hors d’Age (more than six years old)

recommendations for a well-rounded Calvados shelf

DIDIER LEMORTON, 10 YEAR OLD DOMFRONTAIS CALVADOS £64.75 The Lemorton family are renowned for their fabulous pear-heavy spirits, with a 70/30 split in the pear’s favour. This delicious 10-year-old Calvados is aged in oak casks on Lemorton's premises in the Domfrontais region of Calvados, and boasts some seriously intense aromas and a long lasting finish.

Calvados is, in essence, a cider spirit PIERRE HUET VIEUX CALVADOS £43.45 Four years ageing in oak has imparted some lovely notes of caramelised apple and toasted spice, not to mention a clean, crisp, fruit-driven nose. It’s the kind of Calvados that compliments fruitier desserts, or acts as a middle-course palate-cleanser (known as a ‘Trou Normand’ if you’re looking to fit in with the locals).

Single or double distillations are permitted in the production of Calvados

CHRISTIAN DROUIN HORS D'AGE CALVADOS £97.45 Complex yet balanced, Christian Drouin's Hors d'Age Calvados has been aged for over 15 years. Notes of stewed apples and delicate wood spice are prevalent throughout. Certainly a weightier Calvados that would pair perfectly with an evening cigar.

New to the world of Armagnac? Better late than never.

Dawn welcomes you to the party with a selection of surefire, grape spirit hits

Armagnac is the result of o single distillation process proces

Armagnac is believed to be the oldest brandy in France, said to predate Cognac by at least 200 years

Armagnac is produced primarily from four grape varieties: Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche, Baco 22A and Colombard

Armagnac is produced in the Gascony region of France (to the south of Bordeaux) which is, in turn, split into three areas: Bas Armagnac, Tenareze and Haut Armagnac

DARROZE LES GRANDS ASSEMBLAGES 8 YEAR OLD ARMAGNAC £55.25 Bottled at a relatively modest 43%, Les Grands Assemblages is an age-statement range of Bas Armagnacs that serves as both a great introduction to the work of master bottlers, Darroze and a wonderful entry point for Armagnac newcomers. Older than most XO Cognacs, and bursting with plenty of vibrant stone and berry fruit flavours, Les Grands Assemblages is a true testament to just what Armagnac is capable of.

DOMAINE DE JAURREY 1960 ARMAGNAC, LABERDOLIVE £520.00 The house of Laberdolive has been making vintage-dated Armagnacs for more than a century now, ageing its spirit in casks made from black oak trees harvested from its very own forests.

This 1960 grand-cru Bas Armagnac - bottled in September 2015 at 43% - uses grapes grown at Domaine de Jaurrey. It’s as collectable as it is delectable.

DOMAINE BOINGNÈRES 1972, BAS ARMAGNAC £495 An impeccable, high-strength, non-vintage Armagnac from Bas Armagnac. Now, the Bas Armagnac region is notorious for heavier, more complex spirits and Domaine Boingnères more than lives up to that reputation. Bold, brazen and delicious to boot, Domaine Boingnères is a must-try for fans and newcomers alike.

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SHOP SPOTLIGHT:

THE GREAT PORTLAND STREET GIN WALL Our shop spotlight kicks off with a look at our glorious new gin wall

B

oasting one of London's biggest selections of all things botanical, our Great Portland Street gin wall is an eye-catching monument to the wonder and beauty of the juniper spirit. With a floor-to-ceiling selection of world-class gins, the mural is a veritable who’s-who of botanical infusions.

From the artisanal edge of Bruichladdich’s The Botanist Islay gin, to the sansho pepper sophistication of Nikka’s Coffey Gin, the wall is currently home to a staggering 208 gins and counting. And with traditional stalwarts like Beefeater London Dry sitting alongside innovative micro-distilled options such as Sacred, it’s safe to say we have something for amateurs and aficionados alike.

The Whisky Exchange Fitzrovia

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THE GIN ROUND-UP We’ve curated one of the greatest selections of gin in the capital and here’s just a few suggestions to get you started Geometric Gin £48.45 Geometric Drinks are the passion project of South African winemakers, Chris and Andrea Mullineux and French/South African winemaker, Jean-Baptiste Cristini. Using a blend of neutral spirits and grape spirits together with an assortment of botanicals native to South Africa's Cape regions, Geometric Gin boasts a uniquely smooth and fruity texture.

Vibrant and zesty, notes of wild herbs and florals are prevalent throughout, with a dry, spicy finish.

City of London Old Tom Gin £39.65 Their third gin to date, City of London’s Old Tom Gin is as authentic as it is award-winning. Lightly sweetened (such is the tradition with the Old Tom gin variety of yesteryear) and imbued with a bold and lingering citrus zest, this Old Tom is not without a warming, winter-friendly spice perfect for the colder months ahead. With so much going on in the bottle, it’s little surprise that City of London’s Old Tom Gin was the winner of a Double Gold Award in the San Francisco Spirits Competition 2017.

Monkey 47 Schwarzwald Sloe Gin £44.45 A sloe gin from Black Forest gin makers, Monkey 47. Combining sloe berries with their already heavy-hitting, 47 botanical Schwarzwald gin creates a uniquely rich and cloudy liqueur. Very fresh and fruity on the nose, with complex spice and fruity notes throughout, this is one for the sloe gin connoisseur. The finish is a nutty and fruity affair, with a final flourish of - dare we say it - cherry bakewell.

The Whisky Exchange Fitzrovia

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7

CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE

W

e get it, shopping for Christmas can be tough at the best of times. And now that people’s drinks tastes are branching out to pastures new, the average bottle of bubbly just doesn’t cut it anymore. Fear not, though, because our Great Portland Street team have put their heads together to come up with a few spirited suggestions for your nearest and dearest. And don’t worry: we won’t judge you for popping a few of these on your own, personal wishlists too.

A staff round-up of the tastiest tipples to pop under the Christmas tree this year 1

2

3

4

5

1 Glendronach 21 Year Old Parliament Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky

2

3

4

5

AR Lenoble Blanc De Blancs Chouilly 'MAG14' Champagne

Ilegal Reposado Mezcal

Elephant Sloe Gin

Cocchi Dopo Teatro Amaro Vermouth

£129

£44.45

£63.75

£35.45

£28.45

Chris Bolton Store Manager

Polina Malinovskaja Assistant Manager

Aniko Szabo Duty Manager

Peter Casey Sales Advisor

Joao Xavier Sales Advisor

What is it?

A 2011 release to fill a gap in the rapidly expanding Glendronach range and named for the parliament of rooks that live in the trees near the distillery. A tasty combination of sherry matured whiskies, both Oloroso and PX, perfect for sherry-heads.

What is it?

An elegant 100% Chardonnay Champagne from a family-run house with an eye for quality.

Reserve wines, aged in magnums, are blended with wines from the 2014 harvest to create the very first edition of this special ‘Mag’ Blanc de Blancs Champagne.

What is it?

A reposado mezcal from Ilegal.

Lightly aged in oak and full of rich caramel and light smoke.

This is aged for four months in medium-charred American oak casks, 200 litres in volume.

What is it?

A German sloe gin made with real sloe berries that are macerated in Elephant London Dry Gin for several months.

The long maceration and small amount of sugar result in a fruity liqueur that is sweet yet tart and great in cocktails or with tonic.

What is it?

A vermouth amaro based on the original recipe of Giulio Cocchi. A marvellous blend of wormwood, rhubarb, cassia bark, chiretta and cinchona with red wine. A great allrounder that works as an aperitif, a digestif and even in cocktails.

What Chris says: ‘It’s a full bodied powerhouse of a whisky; great as a digestif to help that last portion of Christmas pudding go down.’

What Polina says: 'This Champagne boasts an elegant and fine mousse with citrus notes, offset by intensity that pairs perfectly food. Fully deserving of our choice for Champagne of the Year for 2019.'

What Aniko says: ‘An earthy mezcal with notes of caramel and winter spices, great on its own or in cocktails.’

What Peter says: ‘An award-winning London Dry Gin metamorphosed into an unrivalled Sloe Gin. The perfect treat for Christmas.’

What Joao says: ‘From Piedmont, Italy, this evening amaro is made from Barolo Chinato wine and blended with wormwood, rhubarb, chiretta, cassia wood, not to mention a few more local botanicals. An absolute must for my negronis!’

The Whisky Exchange Fitzrovia

8

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THE PERFECT GLASS FOR THAT FAVOURITE DRAM Show this page in store for a free Perfect Measure tasting glass when you spend £25

D

esigned by The Whisky Exchange team in collaboration with Glencairn Crystal, our Perfect Measure tasting glass (RRP £6.95) has taken years to fine-tune. With a sturdy stem to give it weight, a wide bowl to allow flavours to develop, and a tapered mouth to concentrate the aroma before you take a sip, it's the perfect glass to properly appreciate every spirit, especially whisky.

And it’s all yours when you spend £25 at our Great Portland Street store. Just present this page to our sales assistant and walk away with the perfect glass in which you enjoy your new purchase.

Offer limited to one free Perfect Measure tasting glass per customer. Only valid in the Fitzrovia store only on presentation of this page, alongside a purchase of £25 or more. Offer closes on 31 January 2019.

The Whisky Exchange 90-92 Great Portland Street Fitzrovia, London W1W 7NT +44 (0)20 7100 9888 www.thewhiskyexchange.com

fitzrovia@thewhiskyexchange.com

@whiskyexchange

STYLE

Black Friday Rebellion words by Reece FEENEY

'M

indless consumption will be the end of us all'. This quote stated on streetwear brand Noah’s instagram page on Black Friday. Having personally worked for the last four years at a men’s fashion store, I can tell you, that I am fully on board with brands that are rebelling against this capitalist man-made tradition. We are all suckers for a bargain, we can try and act like we aren’t, but we are, and this is where some of the biggest online businesses thrive. The last Friday of November when everything from socks to televisions get marked down into a ‘Black Friday deal’ is witness to numerous unholy sights of men, women and children all scrambling in-store and on their smartphones to cop a load of, for better use of a word ‘stuff’, the majority of which they do not need. But, what about the small independent businesses that are meant to earn money on their stock during this festive period, what happens to them. Well, the rise of big online corporations who can afford to lose a little to gain a lot affects smaller indie stores the most. Some of our favourite, most-loved independents from around the UK who have the most charming characteristics are the select few stores that genuinely do a good job at making us come back and shop in an actual store, who knew they even existed. Taking a U-turn from the high street whilst dodging the online goods enterprise, smaller scale stores and independent shops offer the overall ‘experience’. Indie stores that we hold dear do not just hand over to us what we want at the click of a button (which is great in some cases), but aesthetically the experience wins. Millennial shoe makers Veja who started their brand in 2004 called out Black Friday as being 'American habit' and has said goodbye to the yearly event on their instagram page wanting nothing more than to 'live in a world where Friday is just a normal Friday'.

The good thing, is that the struggle of sales and status when it comes to Black friday has been noticed this season by larger, more established companies like Veja, who either did not comply or came up with a ‘Black Friday alternative’ that suits everyone.

London based record label Rhythm Section this season collaborated with a bunch of other indie record labels to promote their ‘alternative’ Black Friday deal. The label managed to not discount, but upped their records by 10% and donated the proceeds to two charities ‘Shelter’ and ‘War Child’ who help children impacted by conflict across the world. Other brands like outdoor retailer Patagonia, donated 100% of their in-store and online black Friday sales to grassroots environmental groups. This is a fantastic idea of how brands can fight against the sales driven capitalist culture, painting a compassionately humanitarian name for themselves within their chosen industry and ultimately saying 'we do better'. The Black Friday Rebellion is amongst us. Brands are getting wise to unlawful online consumption that does nothing but tarnish the reputation these brands have worked hard to achieve, this resulting in a revolt of sorts and many anti-black friday campaigns that were noticed this year on a global scale. The overall verdict on this is that next Black Friday, myself along with many others hope that the rebels will gain vote and emerge on top. Yes, even though we all tend to love a hard bargain. EJ Issue 40 | The Essential Journal

Striking the Right Cord Re-entering fashion's mainstream, Corduroy is back and more fashionable than ever before words by Reece FEENEY

'C

orduroy'. That one word that brings back images of Mr Peterson, my geography teacher proudly repping those coffee-stained wale cords day-after-day, as we sat and sniggered at his unfashionable trouser of choice. Well, to all of those prejudging style bigots who criticised teachers like Mr Peterson for wearing that full cord suit, corduroy is back and is looking better than ever.

Taking you on a journey throughout the vintage textile's lifespan, we delve into the characteristics of one of fashion's comfiest and hard wearing materials.

Once known as ‘Fustian’ from its Egyptian roots back in 200 AD, corduroy became popularised on a wider scale throughout the 12th and 14th centuries as it entered into Europe via Italy.

Donned by royalty, it was in the late 18th century that Frustian became popular here in England as “corduroy”. The word was controversially viewed as falsely being adapted from the French translation of ‘cloth of the king’, or ‘cor du roi’. Whichever fence you sit on, the word's very origin signifies a moment in time when different textiles were being developed and worn by members of the superior class.

Skip to the 1900s and the fabric is at an all time high with everyone going cord crazy.

Synonymous with sports and military wear, and from children's baby grows to the Ford Model T's luxury interior, people can’t get enough of the rigid velvet-like material. However, much like the classically loved cardigan (see Issue 39, page 30), corduroy rides the rollercoaster of fashion throughout the 1920s to 1950s.

Whenever corduroy disappears, it suddenly springs back into fashion thanks to the forward thinking trend setters. For example, the early 1970s in the North sees the fabric filter into working class Britain. Placed into high usage throughout a number of large factories, corduroy trousers are proudly adorned by guys and gals at late night cabaret shows to Christmas day family photos (along with Fred Perry chunky knits and a pair of Forest Hills).

The cord pants and slacks were often placed alongside a pair of smuggled German Adidas Samba or Bamba’s with a belted hunting jacket, the style for many football-obsessed who were influenced from their clubs foray into Europe during the late 70s early 80s. Overseas, cords were also worn on the dancefloor of Studio 54. Paired flamboyantly with a silky shirt, perhaps with one buttong too many unfastened, New Yorkers danced like Tony Manero to disco and alternative hits lead by resident disc jockey, Nicky Siano.

Nowadays, corduroy looks as though it has re-entered fashion's mainstream, having been dusted off from the archives and placed onto the mood boards of many of our favourite brands. From the pockets of Engineered Garments’ amazingly designed Dumbo Barbour jacket, to masters of simplicity, Norse Projects’ Aros pants. Cord has been incorporated into the design process of many of today's forward thinking labels. This A/W season has been witness to even some of the minimalist brands around, such as NN07 and Folk, injecting cord into some their colelctions.

Where does it go from here? Well if history repeats then cord is to hang around for a couple more years at least. For all the stick he ever received, Mr Peterson can hold his head up high. He must have known that one day we would be honouring him in some way. After all, he really was ahead of his time when it came to sporting corduroy. EJ

29

Fashion, Lifestyle, Dining, Culture & Opinion All in pursuit of a quality lifestyle

34

The Essential Journal | Issue 36

Advert Image Credit: Ibrahim Rifath / Unsplash

available online today essentialjournal.co.uk

RECIPE

Breakfast Marmalade Take a shot at Martin Berg’s rendition of the quintessential winter preserve, compliments of Arket’s all-new Cookbook for Spring, Summer, Autumn & Winter INGREDIENTS (RECIPE FOR APPROX. 10 2 DL JARS) 1kg oranges 1kg clementines/tangerines 2kg granulated sugar 1l water 5g black cardamom seeds 20g whole cinnamon sticks

METHOD 1. Wash and dry the fruit. Cut in half and then slice as thin as possible.

2. Take out all the seeds and put in a tea globe infuser/strainer together with the cardamom seeds.

3. Put citrus, spices and water in a large pot and boil for 15 min. Let the citrus mass set in a cool place for 24 hours with the seeds and the spices to activate the natural pectin in the citrus seeds and release the flavour of the spices.

4. Then add sugar and boil until liquid reaches 103-104 C making sure to skim the surface during cooking. Clean the jars carefully and sterilize in a 125 C oven for 30 minutes. Make sure to boil the lids and rubber gasket as well.

5. Test for thickness on a cold plate, boiling more if you want it thicker. 1-3 degrees more makes a lot of difference.

6. When done, pick out the spices and fill the jars.

This marmalade had no additives, so refrigerate to be safe. Serve on toast with cured cheese and coffee or tea.

Issue 40 | The Essential Journal

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DRINKING

Drinking with

Below Stairs Tucked away in the burgeoning financial district of Leeds City Centre, Below Stairs serves up masterful blends of the high-brow, the humble and the homely. And at barely a year old, the bar proves itself to be wise beyond its years with an intellectual, narrative-driven approach to cocktail making

Image Credits: Jeff Barnett

words by Will HALBERT

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The essential journal | issue 40

DRINKING

Featured Libation:

Scandivarian

Get the Round in:

Mannie Monaghan Quickfire questions answered in the time it takes Below Stairs’ founder to mix up a round (or two) of off-menu B sides & rarities How important is the idea of a cocktail's narrative to you?

It’s the whole reason we drink, isn’t it? We go out or we gather round to either tell our stories or make new ones. That’s what we want to capture with our cocktails: the spirit of our daily narratives. Also, our drinks can get pretty esoteric and experimental, so the stories we attach to each one help to keep things approachable. A guest might not be immediately familiar with a particular spirit or ingredient, but everyone can relate to the smell of the coast, the warmth of a fire, or that nip of whisky your mum would put in your morning porridge as a kid. Ok, maybe I’m alone on that last one.

You go to some pretty extreme lengths to make Below Stairs a sanctuary from the stress of the streets above. Tell us about them.

We’re all about the details, and we like to keep our approach to bartending as interdisciplinary as possible.

We’ve spoken to behavioral therapists, aromatherapists, you name it. We’re based right at the heart of the financial district, so we try to avoid any ‘work triggers’ down here. Our menus are pink and tactile, to avoid any officework associations. Chairs are set to a certain height to avoid the all-too-familiar feel of the desktop slump. We even perfume the bar just before service. It’s the little details that probably go unnoticed by most, but if there’s any detail we can tweak - tiny though it may be - to put a guest more at ease, then we’re willing to try it.

‘T

he Black Forest - pine trees, ripe cherries, the allure of a log fire, and of course that famous gateaux’ reads the Below Stairs description for the Scandivarian.

It could easily be dismissed as pretense or hyperbole if it wasn’t such a dead-on depiction of just what the drink brings to the table. The peppered pine spice and rich, black forest, fruitiness of the cocktail come from a generous slug of Monkey 47 gin, while chocolate bitters and Cherry Heering impart a rounded and decadent depth. A charred dill and hickory wood chip sprinkling at the base of the Nick and Nora glass adds both a touch of theatre and a campfire charm to the whole thing. It’s more than a cocktail, it’s a short story in a glass. EJ

The Ace in the Hole:

The Aperitivo Menu

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or those that like their cocktails to come as more of a carbonated caress than a whisky-forward kick in the teeth, Below Stairs have you covered. Their aperitivo menu boasts a carefully-curated collection of lowabv, low-cost concoctions perfect for the more moderate amongst you. It’s rare to see a menu that doesn’t relegate its less boozy options to the deepest darkest recesses of its repertoire, but Below Stairs’ aperitivos are shining examples of how skimping on the kick doesn’t mean skimping on the concept. Their 12 O’Clock Somewhere cocktail, for example, is a light, dry and zesty little number with a uniquely caffeinated kick. A blend of coffee-infused sweet vermouth, ginger beer and lime, it’s a drink so fresh you could almost imagine drinking it for breakfast. EJ Issue 40 | The Essential Journal

Speaking of the little details, your coasters are something special.

Pretty cool right? Each one bears the name of the cocktail that’s placed on it. They’re all done by a very talented, Berlin-based tattoo artist by the name of Daisy Watson. We just gave her full creative control over how she sees the cocktails based on the stories behind them and she nailed it. Not only is Daisy behind our bar sign, her work is dotted around the bar itself, too.

How important is the idea of sustainability here at Below Stairs?

Sustainability is a big deal for us. We have a three month turnaround on our menu development, which keeps things pretty seasonal. We constantly work with local growers to see what will be available each season and we work from there. That once landed us with half a tonne of damsons, which was pretty interesting. Even the leftovers from that went on to make a damson porter. Waste not, want not.

Rumour has it that you pretty much built this bar yourself?

Yup, my brother and I built the whole place with our bare hands. I was electrocuted 6 times in the process.

Totally worth it.

The Secret Ingredient:

The Tramonto Spritz

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es, it’s a cocktail rather than an ingredient, but it’s also an absolute tour de force of smaller flourishes that come together to make a serious symphony of a drink. Any one of its constituent parts is a tiny triumph in itself: House pink peppercorn and earl grey bitters; a homemade peach and white balsamic shrub; atomised rosemary and oyster shell sea salt spray. The expertly balanced, coastal allure of the Tramonto simply could not exist in the absence of these elements. By all accounts, the cocktail is a shining example of what Below Stairs does best: It creates experimental and experiential cocktails that remain grounded and approachable despite the mixological gymnastics at work in the mix. EJ

33

DINING

A Moveable Feast: Bench Vol. 1 With their new quarterly supper club, Jack Wakelin and Tom Aronica proudly champion Sheffield’s burgeoning independent scene words by Will HALBERT photography by Will HALBERT & Lara POYNOR

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The essential journal | issue 40

DINING

'Y

ou had to be there.'

It’s a tired out, triedand-tested cliché of a phrase at the best of times, but bear with me. It’s not my fault. You see, there are occasions - rare though they are - when a plan comes together or an evening falls into place with a certain, flawless style and ease.

In the wake of such occasions, you find yourself in the singularly difficult scenario of putting words to an evening that sits quite beyond description or hyperbole. Bench Vol. 1 was just such an occasion, and I promise I’ll do what I can to explain why. But honestly? You just had to be there.

But what is Bench, exactly? A pop-up bar? A nomadic supper club?

Some new form of asymmetric dining? Guerrilla hospitality? In truth, Bench is all of those things and then some. It’s no exaggeration to suggest that Bench is one of the many things going on in Sheffield right now that’s transforming the city into a bona fide beacon of independent spirit and individual attitude.

Bench is a simple premise at its core, I suppose: Local hospitality veterans, Jack Wakelin and Tom (Ronnie) Aronica, take over the slick-but-utilitarian, ground-floor lobby of professional idea makers, Peter & Paul’s Testone Factory Studio. They deck said lobby with some mood lighting and a few floral flourishes from fellow Sheffield independents, Swallows and Damsons. And they commit to serving up specially-made, one-of-a-kind small plates and curated cocktails to a single table of select strangers.

And just like that, the usual bar-

riers of the kitchen pass and the bar top no longer count for anything. All separation vanishes, and the usual Saturday night out becomes something truly unique. Customers are no longer customers, but guests. Servers are no longer servers, but hosts.

The whole evening plays out like a soirée among friends, the hustle and bustle of the Saturday night bar replaced by the low-light intimacy of the mid-week date spot. Except it’s neither of those things, it’s the lobby of a design studio.

A playlist of lo-tempo hip hop works its audible magic in the background while Jack and Ronnie provide ample entertainment for the remaining senses. A veritable feast of visual flair and flavour combinations, their one-off menu is stripped back and purposeful. Five drinks. Five dishes.

Guests can pick and choose, opting in or out of courses, or simply going all-in and enjoying the ride. Beer and wine are available on request, loosening up the typical stiffness of the average food pairing session.

Despite the unassumingly barebones descriptions offered by the minimal menu, the cocktails on offer are a cavalcade of confident and complex concoctions with clout to spare. Dialing the drinks descriptors back a notch is a neat trick that not only lets the cocktail speak for itself, but also gives Jack the chance to work the room and delve deeper into what it is exactly that he and Ronnie have put together. With such an approach, Jack’s seemingly humble Old Fashioned is elevated from a simple spirit, sugar, water blend to a robust, mustard-washed blanco tequila with a salted melon reduction, melon bitters and burnt lemon es-

"Customers are no longer customers, but guests. Servers are no longer servers, but hosts."

sence. Likewise, Ronnie’s five dishes expertly offset the light and playful with dense and complex. From the Waldorf salad atop crispy pork belly, to the chicken and celeriac Yakitori, to the mushroom agnolotti, each dish is a shining example of Bench’s penchant for cross-disciplinary simplicity done perfectly. And that’s the quintessential, quietly confident beauty of it all. With Bench Vol.1, Jack and Ronnie have you drinking cocktails that would sit comfortably on any permanent menu, eating food that would carry a restaurant with

ease, and they have you doing it in the lobby of a design studio, with a co-opted Action Bronson beat in the background. It just works. It really, really works.But like I said, to fully appreciate just what it is that Jack and Ronnie have achieved with the first iteration of Bench, you just had to be there. Luckily, with Bench Vol.2 already in the works, you might not have to wait too long for the chance to experience it for yourself. EJ

Instagram: @benchsheffield

A small selection of Bench's stand-out serves THE BENCH HIGHBALL Cocktails have long been the place for pushing the envelope. By all accounts, they provide the perfect playground for friendly bar-raising and fevered ante-upping.

Bench’s Highball - the final drink of the evening - is a masterclass in both. Dry and earthy, but with signature hints of Singleton 12 year’s delicate fruit-forward sweetness, the Bench Highball is the whisky & soda 2.0.

As a nod to both Bench’s uniquely nomadic nature and an indication of Jack and Ronnie’s one-upmanship, the darling little thing even comes in a bespoke can.

TOMATO AND HARISSA MARSHMALLOW Serving as both a warm welcome and a statement of intent for the evening’s menu, Ronnie’s tomato and harissa marshmallow was an amuse-bouche with some serious attitude. Easy on the eye, light on the palate and not without a certain childlike charm, this little starter perfectly encapsulated Bench’s deft manipulation of expectations and Ronnie’s ability to build complex layers of flavour on the simplest of foundations.

Issue 40 | The Essential Journal

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9 0 0 0 W AY S T O S AY H A P P Y CHRISTMAS Exceptional whiskies, spirits and wines

Visit our London Shops: Covent Garden | Great Portland Street

3 2 , 5 0 0 + R E V I E W S | R AT E D : E X C E L L E N T

DRINKING

Spirited Wisdom

words & photography Will HALBERT

With over 250 years of heritage at its heels, Hine has a lot to teach us about the fine art of Cognac

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ounded in 1763, Maison Hine has made quite the name for itself as one of France’s most forward-thinking Cognac producers. From its single estate, Grand Champagne expressions, to its delicate-yet-intricate, Fine Champagne blends, each and every bottle of Hine serves as a lesson in the house’s rich terroir and immense heritage. Ever the one to take things literally, I offer you an entirely anecdotal account of the lessons to be learned at the bottom of a bottle of Hine. Drink responsibly.

The Bottle: Bonneuil 2008 The Lesson: Cognac is Wine Obvious to some but it bears repeating: Cognac is - at its core wine. And Hine take their wine very seriously. They have to: It takes as many as ten litres of wine to distil just one litre of the eau-de-vie that goes on to become Cognac. That leaves a pretty small margin of error, as any imperfections in the wine will be magnified tenfold in the final distillate.

Produced solely from grapes harvested from Hine’s own estate, Hine’s Bonneuil Cognac is the ultimate expression of those base characters. A liquid ode to the finer details of Hine’s terroir, Bonneuil is Hine’s single-estate, single-harvest Cognac. It’s 2008 bottling - the smallest to date with an assemblage of just 16 casks - offers a rare opportunity to explore the fine terroir of Hine itself. Characteristically light on oak, it’s a little powerhouse of prune, dark fruits and chocolate that provides the key to understanding the house's approach to fine Cognac.

The Bottle: Hine 1988 Vintage (Landed 1990 and bottled in 2004) The Lesson: Cognac is not whisky It might come as a shock to those more attuned to the oak n’ smoke approach of a Kentucky bourbon or an Islay scotch, but Hine’s Cognacs sit on the fruitier, more floral side of the brown spirit spectrum. Setting aside the simple fact that whisky comes from corn while Cognac is the product of grapes, both are a world apart in terms of their relationships with the oak in which they’re aged.

According to Hine, Cognac can be aged for up to around 60 years in oak barrels. After that the wood starts leaving a pretty heavy handed mark on the fine wine provenance of the Cognac. As a rule, Hine use fine grain, lightly toasted oak casks Issue 40 | The Essential Journal

to minimize the oaks influence. The idea is to add a little oaked nuance to the grape without leaning too heavily on the wood. Hine’s 1988 Vintage is a shining example of this balancing act. Grape-forward, it deftly balances soft fruit notes with an earthy, mushroom dryness. At 30 years of age, oak is present but refined, taking a back seat to a prevalent, dark fruit decadence.

The Bottle: Hine Homage The Lesson: Tradition and innovation are not mutually exclusive Cognac is one of the most heavily-regulated spirits in the world. It’s a troublesome burdon for some, one that often paints an unnecessarily old and stuffy picture of what should be a very exciting liquid.

Luckily, Hine have always delighted in the challenges that come from innovating from within the confines of tradition. Hine Homage is the perfect example of that innovation. A throwback to Hine’s British roots and a fine ode to friendly competition, Homage is a blend of early-landed, Grande Champagne Cognacs matured in the UK and XO Cognac from the Hine cellars in

Jarnac. A delicately peppered spice and an exceptional florality lend Homage a cheeky playfulness that extends beyond the liquid itself. True to its name, Homage is a knowing wink to the house’s distant, English roots and a nod to its enduring sense of experimentation.

The Bottle: Hine Triomphe The Lesson: Nothing worth doing is easy Even if we breeze over The Great French Wine Blight of the 19th Century (a fifteen-year aphid infestation that decimated 40% of France’s vineyards), there’s still the simple fact that Jarnac’s winemakers are very much at the mercy of the elements. Entire grape harvests can be destroyed in the single, sudden swoop of a summer storm. Potential vintages can be lost to the region’s relentless humidity. Triomphe, then, is as much a celebration of Hine’s terroir as it is a challenge to it. Blended in honour of all those responsible for rebuilding the appellation in the wake of the phylloxera infestation, Triomphe is a fine example of Hine's dedication to quality and a liquid celebration of its

triumph over adversity. It’s also delicious; the extra aging of this blend of 50 Grande Champagne Cognacs granting Triomphe a peerless complexity and well-rounded yet robust character.

The Bottle: H by Hine The Lesson: Ice-cold Cognac is a revelation There are purists that will insist that the delicacy and nuance of a fine Cognac can only be enjoyed at room temperature. There are others, more devoted still, that will reach for the brandy warmer, fervently defending the bite and intensity of a fire-kissed Cognac. Both parties, no doubt, would be horrified by the idea of a frozen Cognac. And both would be missing out on something truly special. H by Hine, the house’s entry level VSOP, seems tailor-made for this kind of chilled-out experimentation.

It’s a young and vibrant little cognac; a solid solo sipper that also holds its own in a cocktail. What a chilled Hine loses in upfront clout it more than makes up for in golden syrup-like silkiness. It’s a veritable dessert in a glass and a wonderfully playful introduction to the category. EJ 37

DRINKING

High Spirits A month’s worth of comings and goings in the world of The Whisky Exchange

W

inter warmers are the order of the day, and I’m happy to say that, here at The Whisky Exchange, we have them in spades this month. From the fiery, fruity bite of one of our favourite American whiskies, to the warming spice of a craft Barbadian rum, our December roundup is tailor-made to warm your cockles and your palates in one fell swoop this Christmas. - Happy Holidays!

words by Liz LOCK

What we're dramming Michter’s Original US*1 Sour Mash Every year The Whisky Exchange presents a group of customers with eight whiskies to taste blind and by voting for their favourites, the Whisky of the Year is decided. This year the accolade was awarded to Michter’s Original US*1 Sour Mash – a harmonious dram with plenty of rich fruit and sweet spice that’s guaranteed to please crowds and connoisseurs. And don’t be put off by the ‘sour’ reference. It’s simply the production method using yeast from a previous fermentation, akin to the method used for sourdough.

Who we're visiting Nocturnal Animals Big fan of the 80s but fed-up of naff themed bars and blue cocktails? Head to Nocturnal Animals in Birmingham for a night out where everything that was great about the 80s – staff in Don Johnsonesque jackets, a Top of the Pops playlist, plenty of neon – meets a Japanese and Chinese inspired food menu and a bar team who really know how to go big on flavour. Head for afternoon tea, dinner or just drinks. Sounds a bit bonkers but trust me it works!

£49.95, thewhiskyexchange.com

20 Bennetts Hill, Birmingham, B2 5QJ www.nocturnal-animals.co.uk

what we're mixing Red Dragon It’s hard to beat a decent rye Manhattan so I was a little unsure when someone recently suggested replacing my usual rye whiskey with rum but I’m so pleased I gave it a go.

It will never replace the Manhattan but this Red Dragon is firmly in my cocktail repertoire now.

A little dry curaçao with the chocolate and orange bitters bring out the rum's dark chocolate and candied orange peel notes.

INGREDIENTS 45ml Diplomatico Reserva Exclusiva 15ml Cocchi Vermouth di Torino 5ml Dry curaçao 2 dashes Chocolate bitters 2 dashes Orange bitters METHOD Pour all ingredients into a mixing glass with cubed ice, stir for 30 seconds and pour into a chilled coupette. Garnish with struck matches for a little smoke & theatre 38

what we're drinking Doorly’s 12 Year Old It’s been a big year for rum and we think 2019 might see the continued rise of craft rum. This incredibly balanced and super-drinkable nectar is Doorly’s 12 Year Old from Foursquare Distillery in Barbados and it has been named as The Whisky Exchange’s Spirit of the Year for 2019. The liquid is a combination of both pot- and column-distilled spirit, aged in both ex-bourbon and ex-madeira casks and truly shows off master blender and distiller Richard Seale’s attention to detail when making rum. Rich, complex and a worthy winner. £38.95, thewhiskyexchange.com

Who we're following @frombarreltobottle A group of Canadian photographers with a passion for whisky who are definitely worth a follow…but perhaps not if you’re susceptible to major jealousy over people who live in stunning locations! Backdrops of beautiful Canadian vistas play host to whiskies from around the world.

Insta-dram eat your heart out!

The Essential Journal | Issue 40

PARTNER CONTENT

From Us to You for the Year Ahead Alternative 2019 trends that are not to be missed GO TO SHENZHEN, CHINA A trip out of the ordinary. The city has seen an influx of creatives all eager to check out the buzzing indie music scene, cool cafes and craft brewers.

TRY WOODCRAFT Whittle some wood and be creative in 2019. Trust us, this sacred art form is due a valuable revamp in the year to come.

VISIT A BREWERY IN LONDON Independent breweries have been opening ‘taprooms’ in London, a fresh adaptation of the much loved drinking social experience.

REPLACE THE IPHONE WITH A BOOK One that many will say every year. There are not many more stimulating hobbies to take up than gaining knowledge. Visit Phaidon for some of the coolest books ready to get stuck into in the new year.

CARRY A CAMERA If you are creative and like capturing a specific moment in time, get yourself a camera. Whether digital or analog, we are sure your investment will pay off.

GO AND SEE THE LEMON TWIGS Two talented young brothers from Long Island, New York are bringing their enchantingly quirky band on tour in February. Whacky, weird and wonderful we will see you there.

GET INTO FERMENTED FOODS More kimchi, more pickles and less processed foods. Keep your eyes peeled on this European introduced trend in 2019.

SLEEP AT THE COW HOLLOW, MANCHESTER ‘Northern Quarter forever, cool since whenever’. This small scale, boutique hotel is the perfect place to rest your head. With chic rooms, cool staff and a fully stocked bar, the surprisingly affordable room rates are even more appealing.

GRAB YOURSELF SOME HAWAIIAN FOOD We think that Hawaiian’s fresh cuisine will cross over into the mainstream in 2019. A convient, nutritous, filling Hawaiian staple, we think a poke bowl could be a tasty lunch option to start the new year right.

MIX A NON-ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGE Health conscious millennials are slowly moving away from alcohol, now enter premium tonic water and brands such as Small Beer Brew Co. who keep their ABV low but their taste unbelievably palatable.

Issue 40 | The Essential Journal

Flour Will Fly W Turning an

ordinary dish into the extraordinary experience

words by Ralph CANIS photography by Christopher CHAN

hen taught a family recipe, most people are sworn to secrecy, vowing to never let anyone in on the age-old wisdom imparted upon them. But sometimes, just sometimes, there are a rare bunch of wonderful people willing to break their vows, share their family recipes, and generally make the world a better place in the process. In this particular story, that one rather wonderful person goes by the name of Paola Paulucci.

Under the charming little moniker of Flour Will Fly, Paola offers us the chance to revel in the artisanal charm and age-old art of pasta making with a series of workshops hosted by some of Liverpool’s coolest evening spots. So for those who can’t tell their ravioli from their garganelli or their tortellini from their farfalle, Flour Will Fly’s workshops offer both a deep dive into rich Italian heritage and a welcome return to the childlike glee of getting messy in the kitchen.

And it just comes in the nick of time, too. In an era lost to fast food and convenience eating, we find ourselves on the brink of losing our appreciation for the finer things in the world of food.

After all, respect for food comes from a respect for its processes, its production methods and it’s traditions. Flour Will Fly wears this respect for tradition on its flour-flaked and egg-encrusted sleeves.

More than that, it offers old friends and new acquaintances the chance to get together and try something a little different in the new year. As January fast approaches and we look for evening activities that don’t necessarily involve the bog-standard pint around the pub table, Flour Will Fly offers a compelling alternative to simply getting the round in at the local.

Flour Will Fly is more than just a catchy name; it’s a telling glimpse of the fun to be had at one of Paola’s workshops. Yes, you’ll learn a thing or two. Yes, you’ll have a blast in the process. And yes, flour will fly. EJ

For ticket information and to book onto a workshop in 2019, follow along on Instagram and Facebook: @flourwillfly

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DRINKING

What’s On January – February

Tuesday 15 January 7.30pm

Fantastic Beasts: The Crimes of Grindelwald (cert. TBC)

Friday 1 February 8pm Music Room

Jah Wobble & The Invaders of the Heart Monday 4 February 7.30pm

Wednesday 23 January 8pm Music Room

John Grant

Big City Cat & The Magic Tree

Steve Forbert

Wednesday 30 January 8pm Music Room

Box Office 0151 709 3789 liverpoolphil.com

Band On The Wall Presents

Bassekou Kouyate

LiverpoolPhilharmonic liverpoolphil liverpool_philharmonic Principal Funders

Principal Partners Thanks to the City of Liverpool for its financial support

Media Partner

Image Catrin John Grant

CULTURE

Not Just for Christmas Physical and mental wellbeing often only come to the fore in the latter stages of the year. We talk to two major proponents in the quest for all year wellness

interviews by Thomas SUMNER

ing very hand in hand, for example.

But it’s a conflation, really, because in my mind talking is a hard thing; that’s the brave and difficult thing to do, so I don’t really know why those two things are linked and why we’re carrying this around with us all the time.

Tell us a little about the idea behind A.L.A.N.?

All we’ve got to do is make it very clear to everybody that the state of our minds is absolutely normal, we all have bad days. I think ALAN acts as a beautiful, self-deprecating and funny device that allows blokes to talk about this subject in a way that is comical but candid. It creates an environment where we can be there for our mates, or we can go to our mates and when they ask how we’re doing we don’t have to say ‘I’m fine’, we can say ‘actually I’m a bit shit’.

There was a little bit of neuroscience behind it (ALAN) as well.

Statistics show that blokes talk better shoulder-to-shoulder than face-toface. So running, cycling, watching football, playing darts, watching telly, driving: we communicate a lot better when our minds are occupied with another activity. So we’re going to try and use those ‘techniques’ but not dress them up as techniques with Dave and other brand partnerships in 2019.

Simon GUNNING - CALM The Campaign Against Living Miserably (CALM) is an award-winning charity dedicated to preventing male suicide through openness and candid conversation Can you give us a brief history of CALM and why it exists?

Calm will be 12 years old in 2019. It started as an experiment in Manchester funded by the NHS and Tony Wilson, of Factory records, to try and understand why there were so many young men killing themselves in Manchester at the time. What it has done since then is grown gradually for about 10 years and then extremely rapidly for the last two. Essentially CALM exists as a male suicide prevention organisation, and we do that in a couple of pretty candid ways that aim to affect societal change, so that more people don’t get into the position of absolute crisis.

Issue 40 | The Essential Journal

Tell us about the #bethemateyoudwant campaign with Dave.

How and why did it come about?

Again it’s about creating behaviour changes and giving men the opportunity to be there for their mates.

We did a YOUGOV poll that said that 86% want to be the bloke that helps their mate. Dave came up with some ideas, they ran them past a few focus groups and this is the one that came out the best, so we’ll be doing a lot of high profile stuff with the idea, as well as the continued adbreak exposure. We’re going to be doing original formats and events and loads of stuff. Dave are very clear that their target audience matches ours almost precisely, in that their

audience are at extremely high risk of ill health and they want to do something that will help them. It’s as altruistic as you can get, but also our tone of voice is generally quite piss-takey, so we’ll make people laugh. It’s obviously a taboo subject, so we’re striving to make it as easy as possible for people to find ways to talk about it.

Why don’t men reach out in the first place?

I’m trying to stop using the term ‘toxic masculinity’ but yeah, we’re fighting against some pretty unhelpful gender norms that restrict in our behaviours from a very early age.

The ideas of strength and silence go-

'Statistics show that blokes talk better shoulder-to-shoulder than face-to-face... we communicate a lot better when our minds are occupied with another activity.'

Both of the above campaigns seem perfect timing for Christmas, but surely they aren't only for the festive season? Are there any messages or stats that urge mates to keep an eye out all year round?

Well, the Dave campaign continues throughout 2019 and we don’t really up our activity much at Christmas.

What we do see though - with a horrible predictability - is a dramatic increase in the use of the helpline and web chat services over Christmas, because of the polarising nature of the season to be jolly.

It’s a time of contrasts: If it's not a jolly time, you’re having a really shitty time. We certainly don’t need to reach out to people anymore at Christmas as they do that with our helpline, but we just continue to bang the drum all the time people know we’re there for them. thecalmzone.net 41

CULTURE

Michael MOLLOY - LIVFIT For almost two decades, Michael Molloy has dedicated himself to guiding men and women on a fitness journey that cuts through the fads and gimmicks Tell us a little about yourself and your PT history Well, my name is Michael Molloy. I am a husband, soon-to-be Dad and Gaelic footballer. I have been working in the fitness industry for the past 17 years, completing a degree in Sport & Exercise Science here in Liverpool. I get such a buzz from helping the people of Liverpool get into shape.

Specifically, I specialise in supporting my members in their efforts to lose weight and get strong whilst doing so. I have been able to support my members in achieving some incredible life-changing results, one particular member lost 12 st in 12 months, and what’s more he has kept it off this past 2 years.

Alongside my wife and our incredible team of PTs and coaches at LIVFIT, we are on a mission to help as many men and women of Liverpool regain their body confidence and feel strong inside and out.

What are the effects and benefits from working out on your mental wellbeing?

The direct correlation between training and mental health is amazing. From the amount of self-confidence it can give you, to how it makes you feel in general. Everyday tasks are just so much easier when you move freely and pain free.

Training for us and our clients isn’t just an escape: It’s a time to improve 42

yourself and let go of the highly stressful life we all seem to endure nowadays.

Why do you think people hit the gym in Jan and drop off by Feb? What tips do you have to keep going?

Each year, the Christmas period seems to start earlier. The treats are in the shops, the parties start and we are faced with tempting indulgences all throughout December. By the time Jan 1st comes around we are all feeling tired, bloated, sluggish and the sight of another turkey sandwich or mince pie fills up with dread, as our work trousers are feeling pretty snug. So we take action and sign up for an annual gym membership, determined that this time we will get fit and lose the excess pounds we have gained. No junk food, salads for the foreseeable. Same old song.

The problem with this approach, which you seem to repeat each year, (promising yourself this year it will be different) is that by Feb you're either injured, bored of using the same machines, or simply lost all will power and your five sessions a week have dropped to one.

So this year we urge you to do something different. Seek the help of a professional, do your homework, make sure you choose someone/a company that you trust, someone with a proven track record and someone who understands your goals and situation. There are often

many deals on around the new year so don’t just go with the first/cheapest offer you see.

If your budget doesn’t quite stretch to working with a professional. Set yourself some realistic goals and expectations. How often can you attend the gym or a fitness class on a regular basis? Can you eat well and still include some of your favourite foods and encourage a friend to do it with you for the sake of accountability? Here at LIVFIT, for example, we regularly hold free seminars to help get you started. That’s a solid start right there.

Care to bust some fitness myths for us?

To be honest, the whole health and fitness industry is pretty rife with gimmicks that simply play on people’s emotions and insecurities.

Millions and millions of pounds a year get wasted in the UK on dubious products that promise you the body of your dreams. My advice to anyone who is thinking of trying these products? Be very critical and discerning about anything you put in your body. We have a simple motto: If your not gonna do it in 6 months don’t do it now.

Tell us about the importance of the relationship between food and training.

The relationship between food and training plays a dual role to your

'Food isn’t bad. It’s what you do with that food that counts. Don’t starve yourself: Eat to perform and hold yourself accountable, but don’t guilt yourself and don’t expect overnight results.

Strive for progress, not perfection, and you won’t go far wrong.'

success, regardless of whether you wish to build muscle or lose body fat or simply want to feel good. It’s true that good food makes you feel good and when you feel good you perform better. At home, at work or in the gym. To lose weight you must expend more energy than you consume.

A great way to create this deficit is by eating more energy dense food, as well as increasing activity levels.

A combination of the two double your chances of creating this deficit.

By the same token, if you wish to build muscle, you will need to eat in a calorie surplus (more calories on average) than you usually do. Eating foods that are high in protein - lean meats for example - can also support muscle repair and recovery. This is essential between sessions so that you can recover as quickly as possible before your next training session.

There are several ways of logging/ tracking your food intake, and working with an experienced professional will mean your chances of achieving your goals become accelerated.

Food isn’t bad. It’s what you do with that food that counts. Don’t starve yourself: Eat to perform and hold yourself accountable, but don’t guilt yourself and don’t expect overnight results. Strive for progress, not perfection, and you won’t go far wrong.

Facebook @livfitpersonaltrainer Instagram @livfit_liverpool The Essential Journal | Issue 40

DINING

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FILM

Festive Films for One and All The festive period unlocks the archive to some of Hollywood’s most loved productions. From The Grinch to Gremlins, we take a look into our mostloved Christmas crackers words by Reece FEENEY

I

t’s that time of year again. The thought of closing down the office for a couple of weeks, putting on some festive pj’s and cracking open the celebrations box. We find that one of the hardest decisions when it comes to getting comfortable in front of the TV, is what festive film is available to pop on. Whether it’s a traditional family event of viewing at least one select Christmas film over December at home or a trip to the cinema, or background ambiance for a Christmas house party, a festive film is almost as important as those little pieces of joy we call “pigs in blankets”.

Is there a category, or are they all just feel good films? Surely a feeling of guiltiness would enter our system if we were caught watching a film with added snow and tinsel, whilst the weather outside was not so frightful. But after months of summertime sadness, it’s time for the Christmas film to return in all of its glory. These films are amongst a select few that never seem to go out of style, or lose there comedy value as the years roll on. Whichever way we look at it they will always be around, and the good ones will always be tough to replace. Some of Essential Journal’s

"Some of the best Christmas films trigger memories that we cherish for a lifetime, this is partly the reason why we continuously feel the need to re-watch them as soon as December approaches."

Issue 40 | The Essential Journal

favourite holly jolly movies include everything from: The Grinch (2000) to The Muppet Christmas Carol (1992), for others its the romantic comedy style of films such as Love Actually (2003) that signify love and hope at this time of year.

When it comes to festive filmmaking, some of the classics have also been subject to their fair share of criticisms. Some films that can be seen as absolute classics on one hand, but on the other hand have been uncontrollably placed into the “Christmas film” category via default. The on going joke of having Die Hard (1988) classed as a festive film seems strange to some. We can see the relevance, set on Christmas Eve, the snowy scenes and of course the dead terorists in santa hats, how could it not be a Christmas film? Overrated or underrated, the beauty of the Christmas film is that almost every single family member chooses a different one. This makes for the perfect conversation piece around the dinner table whilst tucking into your stuffing balls and roast potatoes.

If in the mood to get warm by taking a trip down to the cinema, independent picturehouses from around Liverpool have taken the liberty of showing some of our most loved Christmas films back to back throughout the festive period.

Merry-made screenings of classics such as It’s a Wonderful Life (1946) are being shown at cinema’s such as FACT & Woolton Picturehouse. It does not get much more christmassy than to watch James Stewart as George Bailey running through the snow looking for life’s answers. Something we recommend to do with your loved ones at this jubilant time of cheer.

Some of the best Christmas films trigger memories that we cherish for a lifetime, this is partly the reason why we continuously feel the need to re-watch them as soon as December approaches. We associate Christmas with spending time with loved ones and eating a-heckof-a-lot of chocolate, however there is always room for our favourite fictitious characters to come and spend some time with us too. After all, there is definitley space on our couch for a green, hairy, tiny hearted Grinch and volatile diva called Miss Piggy. EJ

45

BOOKS

From beer directories, to fashion moguls, to advice on stepping up your pet food game, here's our round-up of books for the month ahead words by Will HALBERT

‘Iconic’ is a buzz word all-too regularly and carelessly bandied about nowadays. But Grace Coddington’s thirty-year tenure at Vogue is more than worthy of the title. Grace: Thirty Years of Fashion at Vogue is, by turns, both a monograph and a memoir, offering insight into Grace’s impact and enduring influence on fashion’s best-known and most-loved publications. Replete with vivid imagery and candid commentary, Grace is a coffee-table must-have for fashion aficionados and photography buffs alike.

Grace: Thirty Years of Fashion at Vogue

by PHAIDON

Grace: Thirty Years of Fashion at Vogue (PHAIDON)

by PHAIDON is available now

Where to Drink Beer Best described as the Yellow Pages of

by Jeppe Jarnit-Bjergsø all things hopped and barleyed, Where to Drink Beer is the intrepid hop heads dream.

Compiled by none other than Jeppe Jarnit-Bjergsø - Head brewer over at Evil Twin Brewers and former beer director at Copenhagen’s Noma Where to Drink Beer is a tour de force of a beer directory. Featuring 1,600 listings across more than 70 different countries, all personally vouched for by 500 of the world’s most well-respected brewers, Where to Drink Beer serves as both a global guide and a beer-based bucket list. Final flourishes, in the form of quotes from bartenders and cicerones, add a personal touch to a truly staggering list of global drinking holes.

Where to Drink Beer (Phaidon) by Jeppe JarnitBjergsø is available now

Feed Me: 50 Home Cooked Meals for your Dog

by Liviana Prola

You read right: It’s a cookbook. For your dog. Sure, it’s niche, and more than likely to elicit a fair few eye-rolls from those with a little less love for our four-legged friends. But Feed Me is a delightfully charming and very well-informed foray into canine nutrition. The passion project of veterinary scientist, Liviana Prola, Feed Me features a wealth of meal plans for doggos of all ages. The book does a good job of avoiding both the foolish and the faddish by providing some genuinely measured advice for dog owners. It’s not all science, mind.

While the book is packed full of nutritional meals for man’s best friend, it also boasts some pretty adorable illustrations to boot.

Feed Me: 50 Home Cooked Meals for your Dog (Phaidon) by Liviana Prola is available now

A Sidecar Named Desire: Great Writers and the Booze That Stirred Them

by Greg Clarke & Monte Beauchamp

Seedlip: The Cocktail Book

by Ben Branson

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Because life is all about balance after all, Seedlip aims to solve the dilemma of what to drink when you’re not drinking. The distilled, non-alcoholic spirit has been making serious waves since its inception, and with a growing range of expressions, the scope for cocktail experimentation is exciting to say the least. Seedlip: The Cocktail Book seeks to address that scope and excitement with a range of carefully-considered and beautifully-presented serves from the experts themselves. The cocktails on offer range from the wonderfully complex to the elegantly simple, and all are sure to excite seasoned mixologists and home bartenders in equal measure.

Please note, alcohol does not make you an all-time bestseller, literary genius or the 21st century’s answer to Shakespeare. However, when treated with respect and drank responsibly, it is argued that the tipsy of this world can think a little further outside of the box than those with a clear head. A Sidecar Named Desire: Great Writers and the Booze That Stirred Them guides us through a history of alcohol and its literary consumers, accompanied

by IPA influenced illustration. From authors who used it wisely - James Joyce and Maya Angelou - to those of whom it got the better of - Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald - authors Clarke and Beauchamp have created an entertaining and educational volume perfect for the literary-minded drinker.

Seedlip: The Cocktail Book (Bantam Press) by Ben Branson is available now

A Sidecar Named Desire (Dey Street) by Greg Clarke and Monte Beauchamp is available now The Essential Journal | Issue 40

NOUN. / The catalogue of stereotypes aimed at making you a manly man, proper bloke or a top lad.