Essential Journal - Issue 43 by The Essential Journal

In pursuit of a quality lifestyle

Issue 43

Also inside this issue of The Essential Journal style

survey

column

drinking

business

OTDW: The Loake Export Grade range

We discuss the evolution of the dining experience

Tommy Banks shares his kitchen soundtrack

TWE puts a spotlight on American whiskey

Adonis Michael ponders the legality of space travel

page 24

page 33

page 31

page 37

page 46

www.essentialjournal.co.uk

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Duration Duration of of Agreement Agreement

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††The ††The model model shown shown is an is an I-PACE I-PACE 20MY 20MY EV400 EV400 SE SE with with optional optional Corris Corris Grey Grey Metallic Metallic Paint Paint (£700), (£700), 20”20” ‘Style ‘Style 6007’ 6007’ Diamond Diamond Turned Turned Alloy Alloy Wheels Wheels (£800), (£800), Privacy Privacy Glass Glass (£375), (£375), Gloss Gloss Black Black Side Side Window Window Surrounds Surrounds (£200) (£200) andand Front Front Fog Fog Lights Lights (£175) (£175) at an at an OnOn thethe Road Road Price Price of £72,245 of £72,245 (exc. (exc. OLEV OLEV Grant). Grant).

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Retailers ers only. With only. With Jaguar Jaguar Personal Personal Contract Contract Purchase Purchase you have you the haveoption the option at theatend theof end theofagreement the agreement to: (1)to: return (1) return the vehicle the vehicle and not andpay notthe payOptional the Optional Final Final Payment. Payment. If the Ifvehicle the vehicle has exceeded has exceeded the maximum the maximum agreed agreed mileage mileage a a eeded the maximum the maximum agreed agreed mileage mileage you will youhave will have nothing nothing further further to pay; to (2) pay;pay (2)the payOptional the Optional Final Final Payment Payment to own to the ownvehicle the vehicle or (3)orpart (3) exchange part exchange the vehicle the vehicle subject subject to settlement to settlement of your of existing your existing creditcredit agreement; agreement; new credit new credit through gh BlackBlack HorseHorse Limited Limited trading trading as Jaguar as Jaguar Financial Financial Services, Services, St William St William House, House, Tresillian Tresillian Terrace, Terrace, Cardiff Cardiff CF10 CF10 5BH. 5BH. We can Weintroduce can introduce you to you Jaguar to Jaguar Financial Financial Services Services to provide to provide funding funding for your for vehicle. your vehicle. We may We receive may receive wning of owning an ultra an ultra low emission low emission vehicle, vehicle, including including the UK the Government’s UK Government’s Plug-in Plug-in Car and CarVan andGrant Van Grant and funding and funding for chargepoints, for chargepoints, visit www.GoUltraLow.com. visit www.GoUltraLow.com.

NEW RANGE ROVER EVOQUE

CAPABLE. NEW RANGE ROVER EVOQUE YET INCAPABLE CAPABLE. OF BLENDING IN. YET INCAPABLE OF BLENDING IN.

New Range Rover Evoque is as at home on city streets as it is on mountainous roads. It has all the capability credentials of a true Land Rover but with all the city smarts too, such as ClearSight Groundview* technology. This displays what’s underneath the bonnet so you canEvoque keep aniseye onhome thoseon awkward highas kerbs New Range Rover as at city streets it is on when parking. The Evoque really can do anything. Apart from mountainous roads. It has all the capability credentials of a true avoid admiring Land Rover but glances. with all the city smarts too, such as ClearSight Groundview* technology. This displays what’s underneath the Call or visit to book your test drive today. bonnet so you can keep an eye on those awkward high kerbs when parking. The Evoque really can do anything. Apart from Hatfields Land Rover Liverpool avoid admiring glances. Riverside Drive, Liverpool, Merseyside L3 4EN 0151 Call or559 visit3000 to book your test drive today. hatfields.co.uk Hatfields Land Rover Liverpool Riverside Drive, Liverpool, Merseyside L3 4EN 0151 3000 Official559 WLTP Fuel Consumption for the Range Rover Evoque range in mpg (l/100km): Combined 28.5-44.9 (9.9-6.3). NEDCeq CO2 Emissions 188-143 g/km. The figures provided are as a result of official manufacturer’s tests in accordance with EU legislation. For comparison purposes only. Real world figures may differ. hatfields.co.uk CO2 and fuel economy figures may vary according to factors such as driving styles, environmental conditions, load and accessories. Nolita Grey on First Edition only for 12 months from launch. *ClearSight Groundview not available on First Edition. Requires 360 camera. All in-car features should be used by drivers only when safe to do so. Drivers must ensure they are in full control of the vehicle at all times.

Official WLTP Fuel Consumption for the Range Rover Evoque range in mpg (l/100km): Combined 28.5-44.9 (9.9-6.3). NEDCeq CO2 Emissions 188-143 g/km. The figures provided are as a result of official manufacturer’s tests in accordance with EU legislation. For comparison purposes only. Real world figures may differ. CO2 and fuel economy figures may vary according to factors such as driving styles, environmental conditions, load and accessories.

Nolita Grey on First Edition only for 12 months from launch. *ClearSight Groundview not available on First Edition. Requires 360 camera. All in-car features should be used by drivers only when safe to do so. Drivers must ensure they are in full control of the vehicle at all times.

Features

Columns 30 | TAILORED THOUGHTS ON JONATHAN EDWARDS This month, Huntsman Cutter and resident Essential Journal columnist, Matthew Gonzalez, offers a case study in authenticity

Contents 8 | THE PRIMER A rundown of the places we’ve been, the shows we've watched and the drinks we've enjoyed this month 10 | BOOKS FOR THE MONTH AHEAD From an exploration of the outposts at the edges of civilisation, to a defence of the Great British pie, here’s our round up of books for the month ahead

30 | A CUT ABOVE

This month, Ian Harrold ponders the barber shop fit out and the fine line between timeless and trite

13 | STAND OUT

Tessuti’s latest campaign is a celebration of personal style and stand out attitude

31 | AT THE PASS WITH TOMMY BANKS

This month Tommy talks us through the standout tracks on his personal playlist

19 | TALKING SHOP WITH ALL BLUES CO. In the ninth part of our regular series - in which we chat to the folks in charge of our favourite menswear stores - we sit down with All Blues Co. owner, Mano Dridi 22 | JOHN SMEDLEY In the first part of our new regular series, we delve into the history and heritage of one of Britain’s oldest and best-loved brands 24 | ONE THING DONE WELL WITH LOAKE Our series of brands doing one item especially well continues this month with Loake’s Parliament whole-cut Oxford shoe

35 | SOUTHERN SOUL

La Marzocco are making good on their mission to build relationships that enrich the lives of others with their upcoming Southern roadshow

45 | ARCHITECTURAL THOUGHTS ON RUINS

This month, our resident architectural columnist, Róisín Hanlon, discusses the odd romance of ruin

27 | ARTICLE OF NOTE WITH BEN SHERMAN We dig deep into the Ben Sherman archives for history lessons in great British style 28 | THE 'S' WORD WITH OLIVER SPENCER This month, we take a closer look at Oliver Spencer’s sustainable efforts and unravel the mysteries of organic cotton 33 | REACHING A CONSENSUS ON THE RESTAURANT EXPERIENCE We reach out to those in the know to get their thoughts on the ever-changing restaurant scene

46 | COFFEE & COUNSEL WITH ADONIS MICHAEL Pondering the potential legal pitfalls of space tourism over coffee with Michael Rose & Baylis director, Adonis Michael

41 | FROM BRADFORD TO BOLD STREET

37 | HIGH SPIRITS SPOTLIGHT WITH THE WHISKY EXCHANGE Delving deep into American Whiskey 38 | DRINKING WITH BELZAN They say that to be a jack of all trades is to be a master of none, but Liverpool’s Belzan begs to differ

Online

We sit down with Bundobust co-founder, Mayur Patel, to talk family traditions and street food done a little differently

web www.essentialjournal.co.uk @essentialjournal

PUBLISHERS Singleton Publishing

CONTRIBUTORS Adonis Michael Addis Miller Bill Granger Brad Carter Chris Edwards Dan Harvey Ellis Morgan Ian Harrold Lello Favuzzi

Mano Dridi Matthew Gonzalez Mayur Patel Richard H Turner Róisín Hanlon Sara Johansen Tom Aronica Tommy Banks

EDITOR Will Halbert w.halbert@singletonpublishing.co.uk

@essentialjournal @TEJOURNAL

PARTNERSHIP MANAGER Lara Poynor l.poynor@singletonpublishing.co.uk For all advertising enquiries please contact: sales@essentialjournal.co.uk

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Thomas Sumner t.sumner@singletonpublishing.co.uk

For all other enquiries including guest editorial and feature opportunities please contact: info@essentialjournal.co.uk

LEAD DESIGNER Jennifer Swaby

TERMS & CONDITIONS Under no circumstances must any part of this publication be reproduced without prior permission to the publisher. Whilst every effort is taken, the publisher shall not be held responsible for any errors.

FRONT COVER Illustration by Thomas Sumner

Furthermore, the publisher shall not be held responsible for any advertising material/content. Please also note that the views and opinions written within this publication do not necessarily represent the views and opinions of the publisher. All prices and details stated within this publication are correct at the time of print, however these are subject to change and the publisher shall not be held responsible for these. Third party contributions own exclusive copyright to their own material that they have submitted as part of the publication. All rights reserved.

Issue 43 | The Essential Journal

50 CARNABY STREET LONDON

8 MANESTY â&#x20AC;&#x2122;S LANE LIVERPOOL

LINK STREET BIRMINGHAM

BENSHERMAN.CO.UK

BS_Essential_Journal_Ad.indd All Pages

108 COMMERCIAL STREET LONDON

17/01/2019 16:31

THE PRIMER

‘One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well.’ Virginia WOOLF

A note from

Remember that

the editor

one time that

what we've been watching LOSERS (Netflix) In a winning-is-everything society, how do we handle failure? Losers profiles athletes who have turned the agony of defeat into human triumph. Candid and cathartic in equal doses, the Netflix series uses interviews and animation to bring vibrant life to stories of disappointment, heartbreak, redemption and joy. Loser’s greatest strength lies not in its ability to provide justice and closure for some of sport's most woefully underrepresented personalities, but in its uncanny knack for rousing the passions of viewers that would otherwise have no real interest in sport.

what we’re drinking

millionaire told

SLANE IRISH WHISKY

those millennials that they would

We know, we know: The only respectable way to celebrate Saint Patrick’s day is to make outlandish claims of tenuous gaelic descent and drink so much green food dye that you have to legally change your national identity to martian. But for those looking for a more stripped-back, sophisticated celebration this year, Slane Irish Whiskey have just the ticket. Triple-casked for an exceptionally-balanced, caramel-esque smoothness, Slane stands tall as a solid sipping whiskey that fares as well over ice as it does in the decadent warmth of an Irish coffee. Sláinte!

never own a home on account of their proclivity for smashed avocado? And remember how those millennials got all shocked and indignant before realising that, in actual fact, he probably had a point but they didn’t really care? That’s because, over the last few years, the goal posts have shifted somewhat. Or at the very least, people are less bothered about the goal itself. It’s the game at hand that people are now starting to enjoy. It’s not lazy or materialist, nor is it self-indulgent or short sighted. We are simply choosing to live differently; with a taste for slower, more pres-

the image

ent living and a keen eye for the

‘STRUCTURE OF LIGHT’ FROM TAKAHIRO IWASAKI’S OUT OF DISORDER SERIES (2006 - ONGOING)

small details and simple pleasures. So here’s to those small and simple pleasures in life; to the shared meals among fiends; to that extra coffee on the way to work; to that bottle of natural wine you’ve not yet learned to pronounce properly. Long may we continue to enjoy them all. If that means it takes us a little longer to throw the anchor down on more permanent land then so be it. We’ll simply enjoy our time at sea in the meantime. Will HALBERT, Editor 8

what's on our coffee table

Where we’ve been breaking a Sweat

Vitamin T: Threads and Textiles in Contemporary Art (Phaidon) available April 3rd

BARRY’S BOOTCAMP Manchester

The latest in Phaidon’s long-running series of surveys into the visual arts, Vitamin T turns its attention to the multiplicity of ways in which threads and textiles are being deployed by artists today. This volume - a textual and textural delight in and of itself - explores the wider associations of a multiplicity of materials. From the questions of labour and femininity linked to the practise of embroidery, to the narrative qualities inherent to tapestries, Vitamin T brings together a global survey of more than 100 artists. Essential reading for anyone even remotely interested in the power and potential of the materials that surround us on a daily basis.

For those who like breaking a sweat without necessarily breaking a nail, Barry’s Bootcamp offers up a somewhat bougie fat buster that’s as intense as it is novel. Think HIIT training with a Hollywood edge. The fabled Red Room of Barry’s Bootcamp, with its low lighting and relentless music, drives you to run faster, lift heavier, and generally just push harder in a workout that claims to burn up to 1,000 calories a day. It’s a far cry from the roughand-tough training conditions endured by Rocky, but can you really complain when the towels are scented, the lighting is Insta-friendly, and the changing rooms are better-equipped than a 5 star hotel? We think not.

Born and based in the Hiroshima Prefecture, Takahiro Iwasaki creates delicate, ephemeral landscapes out of toothbrushes, towels, bookmarks, duct tape, and other common, household materials. The delicate construction of these material miscellanies serves to undermine our otherwise fixed perspectives on familiar everyday objects. Here, childlike curiosity and creativity meet poignant social commentary in a series of works that hark back to Japan’s almost post-apocalyptic ruin at the end of the Second World War.

The Essential Journal | Issue 43

Picture credit: (c) the artist / Courtesy of URANO. Photo: Keizo Kioku (page 144)

THE IMAGE

Takahiro Iwasaki, Out of Disorder (Structure of light), 2017, cloths, lily yarn and table, 165 x 150 x 150 cm / 65 x 59 x 59 in.

Issue 43 | The Essential Journal

BOOKS

From an exploration of the outposts at the edges of civilisation, to a defence of the Great British pie, here’s our round up of books for the month ahead words by Will HALBERT

Ruin and Redemption in Architecture by Dan Barasch

This book captures the awe-inspiring drama of abandoned, forgotten, and ruined spaces, as well as the extraordinary designs that can bring them back to life – demonstrating that reimagined, repurposed, and abandoned architecture has the beauty and power to change lives, communities, and cities the world over. The scale and diversity of abandoned buildings is shown through examples from all around the world, demonstrating the extraordinary ingenuity of their transformation by some of the greatest architectural designers of the 20th and 21st centuries. Ruin and Redemption (Phaidon) released April 17th

Guestbook: Host Stories by Leanne Shapton

Every now and again (all too rarely, if we’re totally honest), a title comes along and sort of blindsides us. Not with the clout of its narrative necessarily, but rather, with the sheer uncertainty of how to approach the thing in itself. Leanne Shapton’s Guestbook is one such title. An inspired blend of short fiction, poetry, photography and a whole host of other artistic miscellanies, Guestbook comes together to produce a multidisciplinary experience that is, quite literally, beyond words. Guestbook (Particular Books) released March 26th

The Valley at the Centre of the World by Malachy Tallack

Longlisted for the Highland Book Prize, Tallack’s The Valley at the Centre of the World is almost McCarthian in its deliberate pacing and its intimate, intricate depictions of Shetland. Of particular note is Tallack’s commitment to the Shetlan dialect. Admirably rendered without ever being overbearing, Tallack’s determination in nailing the voice of the Shetland Isles not only adds a touch of warmth and enduring character to the author’s already impressive command of dialogue, but positions the reader as an ever-curious fly on the wall. An impressive debut novel to be sure. The Valley at the Centre of the World (Canongate) is available now

Outpost: A journey to the Wild Ends of the Earth by Dan Richards

Dan Richard’s latest work offers a vertiginous exploration of the outposts that lie along the furthest edges of civilisation. From Desolation Peak to Mount Mitoku, Richard’s adventures span a host of remote locations that have long served as the inspiration for a myriad of artists, authors and musicians. Despite the cold indifference of the landscapes he encounters, Richard’s prose is shot through with an infections sense of almost childlike wonder. It’s this said same sense of wonder that ensures that the book, for all its gravitas, punctuated with moments of genuine candour and off-kilter comedy. Outpost (Canongate) released April 4th

Pie Fidelity: In Defence of British Food by Pete Brown

A journey through British food from the acclaimed author of The Apple Orchard, Pete Brown’s Pie Fidelity offers up more than just a punny title. Brown takes nine archetypically British dishes and examines just how fundamental they are to our sense of identity, our sense of pride, and to our understanding of our place in the world. By turns anecdotal and analytical, Brown takes us on a journey of British food that serves up humble vindication for all the times we were told that we were a nation of terrible cooks. Pie Fidelity (Particular Books) released April 4th

The Essential Journal | Issue 43

Find out more at johnsmedley.com/discover/legacy

View our collections at: 55 Jermyn Street, London, SW1Y 6LX | 24 New Cavendish Street, London, W1G 8TX | 24 Brook Street, London, W1K 5DG | johnsmedley.com

Essential Journal x Tessuti

An introduction to the Tessuti SS'19 Collection Behind the Shot with Addis & Sara Tessuti's favourite hangouts and hideaways in the Capital

Tessuti’s latest campaign is a celebration of personal style and stand out attitude

T T

he place we call ‘home’ has a natural influence on how we dress. The clothes we wear offer a loud and clear statement on who we are. Tessuti’s latest Spring/Summer campaign is a celebration of the creativity and style of those who strive to stand out from the crowd. An ode

to trend-setters and style leaders alike, Tessuti’s new collections are carefully-curated for maximum impact. From Stone Island, to DSQUARED, to Love Moschino, Tessuti offers the fashion-forward thinkers all they need to be brave, to be bold and to Stand Out.

Issue 43 | The Essential Journal

Tommy Hilfigure | IUTER

Stone Island

McQ

Missoni

Neil Barrett

Dsquared2

Tessuti's Spring/Summer 2019 collection, featuring Stone Island, Missoni and McQ is an ode to both trend-setters and style leaders

Essential Journal x Tessuti

shop now at Tessuti.com

Essential Journal x Tessuti

THE STORY BEHIND THE SHOT The first instalment of Tessuti’s Spring Summer campaign introduces London influencers, Addis Miller and Sara Johansen. We sit down with the pair to talk about their stand out styles and fashion inspirations

Were there any stand out brands from the Spring/Summer lineup at Tessuti? SJ: Love Moschino was a favourite for me. Their hooded dress stands out for all the right reasons, in my opinion. It strikes a great balance between casual and premium. Versus Versace is another strong contender, elevating basic tee shirts with wonderful design. AM: Stone Island is always an obvious choice as far as I’m concerned: A classic Italian brand with lots of history. CP Company is another great choice when you’re looking for something a little more subtle. Their tracksuits are understated in their design but their quality is obvious.

Personally, where do you look for your own style inspiration? SJ: I would first start browsing Instagram but then start to look at street style and magazines. There is a whole world out there to gather inspiration for your style. The best thing about fashion is being able to adapt new trends and designers in your own way, whatever city you live in. AM: I would look at social media channels, especially Instagram. Instagram not only provides a lot of style inspiration, it’s also helpful if you want to learn more about brands and stay connected with other influencers. If I like someone’s style, I am more likely to connect with them and replicate the looks in my own way.

How would you describe your own, personal style? SJ: I like to mix up my style, I would either have a designer slogan top such as a Vivienne Westwood piece or a designer bag to accessorise my outfits. If I was to take a head-to-toe approach, I would opt for a more casual lounge set from Polo Ralph Lauren, pairing it with some Calvin Klein trainers for those dress down days. AM: For me it’s all about blending brands; balancing luxury, designer pieces with casual, understated basics. I could either wear a slogan tee such as CP Company with casual track pants or a heavily branded jacket like Canada Goose with a Polo Ralph Lauren essential underneath but make it work either way. It’s all about balance.

What would you consider to be the most stand out piece in your collection? SJ: It’s hard to narrow it down, but I love my designer bags, they are the perfect way to compliment outfits and accessorise your day-to-day looks in a stand out, statement way. AM: It would have to be one of my watches. They not only really round off a clean look, they’re a little reminder of the hard work I had put into modelling and my career, and how that work finally paid off.

Essential Journal x Tessuti

STAND OUT SPOTS From coffee spots to Insta-shots, we round up a couple of stand out London destinations

Columbia Rd Flower Market

The Good Egg

The Green Room, The Curtain

Kaffeine

Boxpark

The Curtain

Columbia Rd Flower Market

Kaffeine

The Good Egg

Boxpark

Shoreditch

Fitzrovia

Soho

Shoreditch

The last word in hotel extravance, The Curtain calls itself home to some of the most luxury lodgings in London. Equipped with a co-working space, a wellness centre and gym - not to mention a rooftop restaurant and heated pool - The Curtain in Shoreditch offers the whole package. Just passing through? Then checking out The Curtain’s late night bar, The Green Room, is a no-brainer for those who like a their cocktails with a side of class.

One of London’s most popular weekend destinations, it would be plain rude to visit Shoreditch without checking out the florists’ fantasy that is Columbia Road Flower Market. A leisurely stroll through the hustle and bustle of the market will see you whisked away by an array of seductive scents and scenic views. With its vast selection of succulents, houseplants, bouquets and herbs, the Columbia Road Flower Market offers colour and culture in equal measure. Bring your Piriteze.

Inspired by the amazing coffee culture in Australia and New Zealand, Kaffeine is an independently owned cafe and espresso bar with two locations in London's Fitzrovia, just 5 minutes walk from Oxford Circus or Tottenham Court Road. Boasting an enviable consistency a genuine willingness to innovate, Kaffeine have quickly risen through the ranks to become a firm favourite among coffee aficionados. Expect expertly-crafted flat whites and cortados featuring some truly stellar roasts from speciality coffee mainstays, Square Mile. Their salad bowls are something special too.

The Good Egg is the Jerusalem inspired restaurant tucked away in Soho’s Kingly Court. Known for being both an ideal and idyllic brunch spot, The Good Egg boasts a range of far-out favourites like their award-winning shakshuka, babka French toast, shawarma hash and salt beef reuben sandwiches. The dinner menu celebrates traditional cooking styles, using charcoal-fired, Israeli mangals, clay ovens and on-site smokers to come away with showstoppers like za’atar fried chicken thighs, aubergine shawarma and grilled octopus. A word to the wise: Don't leave without picking up a slice of their famous babka from the bakery.

Can’t decide on one place to eat and drink? Boxpark has you covered. The world’s first pop-up mall, Boxpark is made up entirely of refitted shipping containers, offering up a veritable hub of shopping, eating and drinking options. Boxpark plays host to some of London’s most popular food pop-ups, from vegan eatery, CookDaily, to ice cream connoisseurs, Soft Serve Society. Judging by their recent branching out from Shoreditch to Croydon, it's clear that their ‘eat, drink, play’ attitude is catching on.

thecurtain.co.uk

columbiaroad.info

kaffeine.co.uk

thegoodegg.co

boxpark.co.uk

STAND OUT CREATE YOUR OWN STYLE

www.tessuti.co.uk

STYLE

Talking Shop

All Blues Co.

Leeds

In the ninth part of our regular series - in which we chat to the folks in charge of our favourite menswear stores - we sit down with All Blues Co. owner, Mano Dridi

words by Will HALBERT photography by Thomas SUMNER

ucked away in Leed’s historic Corn Exchange, All Blues Co. is a heritage-forward store that offers up far more than your average Americana. A love letter to the well-made and the hard-wearing, All Blues Co. has curated a selection of garments that are unified in their quality, but cater to a range of styles and attitudes. We sit down with founder, Mano Dridi, to ponder the importance of looking beyond the label and respecting your elders. EJ

First off, tell us a little about All Blues Co. All Blues Co. has been around since 2016. To be honest the main reason I opened All Blues Co. is because I couldn’t shop anywhere for myself. There was no one out there with access to the brands and styles I wanted. Everyone was playing it so safe. That’s often the case in retail; stores reduce their lines to the brands that everyone knows. There’s no fun in that, no room to grow. So, by my own standard, there was a real gap in the market, and All Blues Co. was born. You know that little house lost amongst the skyscrapers in Manhattan? That’s All Blues Co. [laughs]. And that’s exactly where I want to be. I’m just minding my own business, doing my own thing. At the end of the day a store is more than a store, it’s an extension of yourself. You need to be proud of it, it needs to speak for you. It needs to represent and it needs to resonate with others. What’s your story? I’ve worked in the industry for years, I’ve worked as a buyer, an agent, you name it. I’ve always been a real brand geek too, I love the more technical aspects of the industry: I want to know how something is made, by who, to what standards and by what means. I love it. There’s always something new to learn. I was working for Le Laboureur out in South Korea, selling to their market, when I started to notice the quality of South Korean brands. I was big into my military-style garments and a lot of the brands out there ticked a lot of boxes as far as quality and price range went. So I started to make a list of the brands that really stuck out in my mind. I found a space in this beautiful building [The Corn Exchange] and before long I was stocking the brands on my mental list in my own store. Where did the name All Blues Co. come from? Good question. I like jazz. And one of my favourite songs is Miles Davis’ Issue 43 | The Essential Journal

STYLE

‘All Blues’. There’s twist to it though: It’s not the Miles Davis version that I like, it’s the Chet Baker version, with Rachel Gould on vocals. It’s amazing. And I think the title makes a great name for the store: It captures the feel of the store without coming off as pretentious. Tell us a little about the brands you stock. What can customers coming into the store expect? We specialise in a lot of South Korean brands like Outstanding & Co., Uniform Bridge, and VDR. We were one of the first stores in Europe to start delving into their wares. They’re truly keeping the spirit of high-quality, union-made goods alive. They’re doing it in a way that harks back to that pre-war, Americana charm, but they’re doing it in their own way. Their quality is instantly recognisable. Some of the brands here are pretty traditional, they don’t like to do business online so they’re often hard to find. Like the brands we stock, we take a little tracking down ourselves, but it’s always worth it. The South Korean brands you mentioned are obviously less well known here. How have they been received? The response has been crazy. Personally, I love Japanese brands and American Brands, anything that’s unapologetically premium and visibly well-made. The South Korean brands we stock are far less well known, but they tick those premium boxes with ease. It’s a great position to be in, bringing in brands that no one has ever heard of. We get to show people something new, something different. I like to think we’re pushing things a little here as All Blues Co. We like to challenge as much as we inspire. When people buy brands that they’re not too familiar with, it’s clear a sign that people trust the store, they trust the buyer, they trust me. Any personal favourite brand picks from yourself and the All Blues Co. staff? Oh man, there are too many to mention. Le Laboureur will always be up there as they’ve been with us since day one. Uniform Bridge are one of our newer brands in store, but they’re already getting a great reaction from customers. RRL is another great brand that we’ve recently started stocking, which is a big deal for us. They’re the last word in premium Americana and it’s amazing to have them on board. Drake’s is another brand we’re introducing in the near future. That’s more of a personal achievement; I’m getting that one in for myself as I buy their stuff all the time anyway! [laughs] How does All Blues Co. fit into the Leeds style scene? Leeds is made up of so many different styles, and All Blues Co. is curated enough to have a little something for all of them without losing our core identity. That’s the beauty of this stuff: It’s timeless and trend-proof. Guys looking for 20

'Typically, our customers are united by an appreciation of quality and a desire to find something new, something unique, something they literally can’t get anywhere else.' more of a casual street look are just as likely to leave with something as a denimhead would. Bottom line? You could dress yourself, your son your granddad and your wife here. Cool is cool. Style has no boundaries, neither do we. How are the garments at the higher end of the price scale received? We’re all about balance. Sure, we’ve got some expensive wares, RRL will always raise a few eyebrows, for example. But over half of our stock is really accessible, especially compared to other stores. We like to mix things up, we don’t want to be out-of-this-world expensive across the whole store. And we certainly don’t want to be expensive just for the sake of it. We’re not London. Like I said, it all comes down to trust. The people who shop here know what they’re getting for their money. Would you say that All Blues Co. has a particular type of customer? Typically, our customers are united by an appreciation of quality and a desire to find something new, something unique, something they literally can’t get anywhere else. We’ve been referred to as the shopkeeper’s store a few times. We’re

here for the people who really know their stuff. We get a lot of guys and girls working in other stores - really clued-in guys and girls - shopping here. And even if you don’t happen to be all that up on your brands, we’re here to talk you through it. I’m not much of a salesman, but I love talking to people. I don’t want to be known as a vintage shop or an army surplus store. That’s not really what All Blues Co. is about. I mean, I love the looks, but I wouldn’t want it to define the store. We’re a menswear store: We cater to a range of styles, but the real unifying theme here is quality. And on that note, quality is unisex: Girls can just as easily find something here if they wanted, and they very often do. Would you say that Instagram has played a part in the success of All Blues Co.? Oh definitely. Instagram has caused some major waves across the industry. It’s become instrumental for small businesses, in my opinion. It’s given small stores a voice and a means to connect with people. It’s a platform that lets people see who we are and what we’re about. We get people from all over the world

stopping by and saying hello for the simple fact that they’ve been following us on Instagram for a while. And obviously, it’s a great sales tool. You can tell people exactly what sets a particular garment apart, you can educate your audience on a particular garment, time or style. Instagram is the middle ground really, it’s internet shopping but with more personality, more soul. Have you noticed any big changes in people’s approach to style over the years? When I was younger I’d always take my style cues from the older guys. I think a lot of people did. I don’t see that so much anymore. Newer generations don’t care about the older guys, they’re too busy getting caught up in hype and trends. And that’s a shame, because things get a little silly when everyone wants to stand out. There’s nothing wrong with a mentor. Follow the older guys, man. They’ve been through it, they’ve already made the mistakes and they’ve learned their lessons. What’s the age range of your customers? Oh we cater to all. And we’re without any pretense that would alienate

people. We welcome all styles and all ages. At the end of the day, we have a love for this stuff. And if you do too? You’re more than welcome here. Any interesting customers come ever through the door? Martin Freeman stopped by once while he was filming for a movie. He picked up an ivy league sweater that I designed myself. You can actually see him wearing it on the cover of his Jazz On The Corner album, which is pretty cool. He’s a lovely guy, too. Which always helps. Personally, do you have any key style influences or watershed style moments? Steve McQueen, for sure. I mean, he wore it all, and he managed to pull it off, too. His was a classic, timeless style that still looks great today. A lot of what we consider cool today you can pretty much trace back to McQueen. I guess that’s why they call him the King of Cool. You can even see the onset of the streetwear scene in a lot of what he was wearing. Obviously, streetwear has come along way since then, but you get what I mean. Follow on Instagram @allbluesco The Essential Journal | Issue 43

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Issue 43 | The Essential Journal

ESSENTIAL JOURNAL X JOHN SMEDLEY

John Smedley In the first part of our new regular series, we delve into the history and heritage of one of Britainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest and best-loved brands

The Essential Journal | Issue 43

ESSENTIAL JOURNAL X JOHN SMEDLEY We’ll be helping John Smedley celebrate its 235th birthday with a year-long look at their dedication to superior craftsmanship in all of its wild and wonderful forms. johnsmedley.com

Celebrating 235 Years of British Craftsmanship At its 235 year milestone, John Smedley will unite artisans from across the British Isles in a celebration of quality and craftsmanship words by Will HALBERT

John Smedley: An Enduring Beacon of Great British Design An introduction to the brand’s centuries-long love of the craft words by Will HALBERT

ohn Smedley have curated a series of events and product launches that, over the next twelve months, will showcase the brand’s passion for craft. Kicking off on May 1st with London Craft Week, the brand will work in partnership with The Queen Elizabeth Scholarship Trust (QEST) - a charity Pictured above: which supports the training and John Smedley’s Lea education of British craftspeople Mills Factory today to tell the stories of 10 unique (top) British craftspeople. Select John John Smedley’s Lea Smedley stores will be transformed Mills Factory in into workshops that will delve into the 1930’s each artisan’s personal journey and (bottom) showcase their unique products. John Smedley will also launch its official 235 collection: A range that will look to the brand’s own rich heritage. Forming part of Wool Week’s own 10 year anniversary, John Smedley will present a three-fibre collection across menswear and womenswear. For the first time in its history, the line-up will feature British Guanaco, British Alpaca and British Sheep’s wool. These unique garments are not only crafted in Britain, but are made of fabrics that are entirely farmed, spun, knitted and hand finished here in the UK. EJ Find out more at johnsmedley.com/discover/legacy

Issue 43 | The Essential Journal

ith almost 235 years of history at its heels, it’s hard to know where to start with a brand like John Smedley. There is, after all, a lot of ground to cover. Do we begin with the fact that John Smedley has the oldest functioning factory in continuous usage; not just in the UK, but in the whole world? Or do we open by flashing the brand’s Royal Warrant; their appointment as ‘manufacturer of Fine Knitwear’ serving as one glowing endorsement amongst many of the brand’s unwavering commitment to quality? Or do we simply let stars like The Beatles, Audrey Hepburn, and Sean Connery make the introductions for us? John Smedley has, after all, confidently clothed the rich and famous since, well, the very dawn of Hollywood stardom. Best, as always, to start from the beginning. Founded in 1784, John Smedley has dedicated almost two and a half centuries to the design, manufacture and production of innovative and contemporary knitwear of the highest quality. Combining traditional techniques with the latest technology, the brand has consistently crafted luxurious, hand-finished garments that are as understated in their style as they are unparalleled in their construction. By all accounts, it’s a level of construction that can only be reached with a personal touch. Over the years, the John Smedley team has made quite a name for itself for hand-producing the finest quality knitwear in the world. Versed in quality and driven by a love of the craft, the John Smedley line-up of lockstitchers, linkers, seamsters, pressers and fully fashioned knitters fall under the wider umbrella of highly-skilled artisans. Each one is responsible - in their own small but time-honoured way - for the hand-finished flourishes that make a John Smedley garment quite what it is today. But the past, for all its glory, isn’t worth much if it doesn’t serve as a solid foundation for the future. John Smedley know this all too well, and pride themselves on forever pushing further forward. But even in this respect, the question of where to start remains. Broaching 235 years of forward-thinking and steady bar-raising is hard enough without having to delve into what the brand have in store next. Do we start with a look at Singular, a groundbreaking unisex range that revels in a timeless style unburdened by the boundaries of gender? Or do we look to their latest seasonal offerings, a further celebration of John Smedley’s famously broad range of rich textures and fibres? Indeed, John Smedley’s is a dizzying and almost unrivaled sort of heritage that, amongst those with a real passion for the well-made, makes for quite the conversation starter. Luckily for us, we’ll be spending a lot of time with the brand over the months to come, getting to know their workers, their methods, and their ongoing celebration of craftsmanship in all of its many and marvellous forms. But for now, enough chit chat: We’ll simply let John Smedley’s enduring style and uncompromising quality do the talking. Which, if we’re perfectly honest, speaks volumes in itself. EJ

'Versed in quality and driven by a love of the craft, the John Smedley line-up of lockstitchers, linkers, seamsters, pressers and fully fashioned knitters fall under the wider umbrella of highlyskilled artisans.'

Find out more at johnsmedley.com/ discover/legacy

no.

20 LOAKE One Thing Done Well

Our series of brands doing one item especially well continues this month with Loake’s Parliament whole-cut Oxford shoe words by Will HALBERT

aving dedicated themselves to crafting some of the world’s finest footwear for almost 140 years, Loake Shoemakers are firm believers in the notion that you can’t strive for perfection by standing still. Luckily, Loake’s enduring legacy has provided a century-and-a-halfstrong foundation of knowledge and know-how upon which the brand is able to keep building. Loake’s Parliament whole-cut Oxford is a fitting testament that very endeavour. Fresh out of the box, the Parliament shoe exudes a peerless elegance: An understated and mostly-unadorned finesse that lends a fitting visual metaphor to Loake’s simplicity-done-perfectly philosophy. Constructed from a single piece of high-grade leather, the Parliament’s elongated chisel toe and distinctive closed-lacing system sing of Loake’s signature style and sophistication. The shoe’s Goodyear welted construction pays further tribute to the brand’s five generations of provenance and heritage. It’s a dressy shoe to be sure, but no less capable of serious versatility when occasion calls. Whether the dress code demands a sharp, sartorial edge or a more laid-back, denim-friendly set up, the Parliament Oxford is as premium as it is multi-purpose.

'The Parliament’s elongated chisel toe and distinctive closed-lacing system sing of Loake’s signature style and sophistication.' It’s this quality and versatility that makes the Parliament Oxford shoe a fitting posterboy for Loake’s latest 1880 Export Grade range. Unapologetically top-tier, the Export Grade collection pushes the furthermost limits of ready-to-wear, bench-made production with enviable style and ease. Handmade to the same exacting standards as their signature Loake1880 collection, the Export Grade range sets itself apart with a truly artisanal approach to shoemaking. Designed and constructed in Loake’s factory in Kettering, Northamptonshire, the entire Export Grade range features uppers cut from hand-selected, top grade, full grain calf skins. Further artisanal flourishes such as edge-trimming, finger-polishing and hand-antiquing all demonstrate Loake’s time-honoured and precision shoemaking skills. With such attention to detail, it’s little wonder that Loake’s Export Grade range is only available in limited quantities of a few thousand pairs each year. By all accounts, the Export range is the kind of collection that could have only come from a brand like Loake. With an artistic finesse and a technical prowess that most shoemakers could only aspire to, Loake continue to lead the way in great British shoemaking. The Loake1880 Export Grade range is but one more step forward in their constant pursuit of ready-to-wear perfection. EJ loake.co.uk

Parliament Oxford Shoe Designed & constructed in Kettering, Northamptonshire The Essential Journal | Issue 43

ESSENTIAL JOURNAL X LOAKE

Loake Shoemakers Traditional British manufacturer of premium grade Goodyear welted men's footwear, since 1880 loake.co.uk | @loakeshoemakers

'Fresh out of the box, the Parliament shoe exudes a peerless elegance: An understated and mostlyunadorned finesse that lends a fitting visual metaphor to Loakeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s simplicity-doneperfectly philosophy.'

Goodyear Welted A tribute to Loake's century-and-a-half long provenance & heritage

High-Grade Leather Constructed from a single piece of top grade, full grain calf skin Issue 43 | The Essential Journal

content creation placement

a fantastic opportunity has arisen for a placement student to join our busy team at la marzocco uk & ireland within the marketing department. we currently have two offices in the uk, our head office in london and local office in leeds, where this role would be based out of. the role offers the opportunity to travel around the uk, working at a range of different events and festivals as well as interacting with our international family. this role would suit someone creative and driven who thinks outside the box, offering a highly rewarding learning experience.

key responsibilities: •

Working as part of the marketing team to create high-quality content for La Marzocco, including photography, short-form videos, advertisements, brochures and online campaigns using Adobe Suite and Wordpress

•

Supporting our reseller network with content creation; filming and photographing at coffee events, with a strong focus on La Marzocco in order to encourage the network to run events and support the specialty coffee community within the UK & Ireland

•

Supporting the marketing department on all their needs regarding events, including the creation and distribution of promotional materials, as well as assisting on the planning, coordination, set up and break down of these events

•

Representing the La Marzocco brand in a personable way with a sense of fun professionalism

to apply please email valentina@lamarzocco.com about la marzocco: la marzocco, founded in 1927 by the bambi brothers, has traditionally specialized in producing high-end hand crafted espresso coffee machines geared towards excellence, a quality cup and style. the company is headquartered near florence, italy, with offices in auckland, barcelona, london, melbourne, milan, seattle, seoul, shanghai, stuttgart and sydney. la marzocco has over 330 employees and produces espresso coffee machines and grinders that are exported to over 100 countries with the support of its distributors and partners, making its presence known on the 5 continents.

ESSENTIAL JOURNAL X BEN SHERMAN We’ll be working closely with Ben Sherman over the next year to discuss the past glories and future plans of one of Britain’s most iconic brands bensherman.co.uk

The Series Offering a window into the creative drive of the modern man

Pictured:

Image credit: Omar Kaheel

Nicholas Sinclair (top right) Bushy (right) Tom Ravenscroft (left) James Chuter (below)

Article of Note

The Mod Suit We dig deep into the Ben Sherman archives for history lessons in great British style words by Will HALBERT

en Sherman was a legend in his own right, a man renowned for always embracing the new and the different. A man on a constant search for the very best of things, Ben Sherman was a passionate businessman with an artist’s soul. Over the next few months, Ben Sherman and The Essential Journal will be celebrating that artistry and soul with a series of conversations with those also known for embracing the new and the different. From radio DJs to graffiti artists, models to music producers, The Series will offer up insight and inspiration across a number of industries and artistic avenues. True to Ben Sherman’s roots, we’ll be sitting down with the likes of Radio 6 DJ, Tom Ravenscroft and rising music producer, Bushy, to talk creativity, originality and authenticity within the music industry. Likewise, we’ll be talking to James Chuter and Nicholas Sinclair about style and self-expression in a digital era. An original since 1963, Ben Sherman is a brand as modern now as it was back in the day. The Series will offer a chance to celebrate the music and culture that lies at the heart of Ben Sherman, whilst also looking at what keeps the brand feeling so fresh and exciting. Look out for The Series as it rolls out over the next few issues. bensherman.co.uk

Issue 43 | The Essential Journal

words by Will HALBERT

lways underestimated but never underappreciated, you can tell a lot about a man from the cut of his suit. From the sharp, sartorial severity of the military inspired British silhouette to the breezy, Mediterranean chic of Italian house patterns - not forgetting the boxy, rough n’ tough, utilitarianism of the American fit - the suit sends out an introduction and a mission statement before the handshakes are even in place. Accordingly, Ben Sherman's range of Spring/Summer suiting offers a solid selection of sharp, slim cuts and stylish silhouettes perfect for any occasion. Better yet, each suit offers a subtle nod to the iconic Brand's modernist heritage, which - we feel - calls for a brief history lesson in the birth of Mod culture. At its birth in the 50s, the Mod look was more than just a fashion trend, it was both a political statement and a means by which baby boomers could distance themselves from the Post-War austerity of their parent’s generation. Under the credo of dressing well regardless, Mod suiting became the podium for a generation of young Britons, moved by modern jazz and determined by more than just a product of their environment. With its origins in the British lower middle classes, Mod suiting became a much-needed response to the stiff-upper-lip, sartorial posturings of Savile Row. By turns rebellious and conformist, the Mod style has always revelled in its own, off-kilter, balance between timelessness and trend, between modesty and peacockery, between flamboyance and austerity. United by a shared sense of style and a common critique of societal norms, the Mods would don the suit as a uniform of sorts, before descending on all night cafés and emerging jazz joint. While the vast majority of youth trends have folded, fallen or faded over the years, the Mod style not only remains, but it looks remarkably fresh for its age. Over the years, the Mod style has relaxed somewhat, with parka coats and denim jeans replacing the sharp tailoring for which the Mod look had become so famous in its infancy. Carrying the weight of this legacy on its sharply-tailored shoulders, Ben Sherman’s latest collection of suiting options is both a call back to classic cool of the Mod and a celebration of the style’s enduring freshness. Revelling in the legend of their modernist forefathers, Ben Sherman’s suiting offers those classic hints of razor sharp, music-infused rebellion, while also boasting a clean-cut and occasion wear-friendly touch of class. Perfect for the wedding, the boardroom or the jazz club, Ben Sherman’s range of Mod-inspired and Italian-infused suiting offers a touch of future-proof tailoring for the modern man. EJ

'Under the credo of dressing well regardless, Mod suiting became the podium for a generation of young Britons, moved by modern jazz and determined by more than just a product of their environment.'

ESSENTIAL JOURNAL X OLIVER SPENCER This year we have teamed up with the Lambs Conduit St. based designer to follow his efforts in becoming a more sustainable outfit oliverspencer.co.uk

Meet the Locals

Morgan, Bangor Getting a lay of the local land from the friends of Oliver Spencer

ocated in the idyllic Welsh city of Bangor, Morgan are renowned for their careful curation of high quality garments for men and women. We asked store owner, Elis Morgan, for a few insider tips on what to do and who to see while we were in the neighbourhood. He did not disappoint. EJ Where’s the best place to get your morning coffee? There’s a local Italian restaurant by the name of Torna a Surriento just 40 meters down from our shop. It’s run by a lovely Italian family, I can’t recommend it enough. Any good food spots that you’d recommend? This isn’t going to help Bangor’s reputation as a small town, but I’m going to have to go with Torna a Surriento again. It really is our go-to food spot as well as our coffee spot. Where’s the best spot for a post-work drink? Clio Lounge on High Street is always good. People often turn their nose up at chains but good beer is good beer. And it’s hard to argue with their happy hour. Any must-see monuments, buildings, installations or works of art we should check out while we’re here? The Menai suspension bridge taking you over to Anglesey is an iconic monument of the area. A little slice of history that also offers up some truly amazing views. Have you noticed a shift towards a more sustainable way of living in your city? Where?

I think we’re seeing that shift everywhere of late, thankfully. I’m pretty proud of the fact that North Wales is now the leading contributor to recycling in Britain. Not that I’m bragging, but if ever there was something to get competitive about it’s saving the planet. Is there a particular neighbourhood or area that’s transforming for the better? Or any other comingsoon moments that your looking forward to?

Menai Bridge in Anglesey - the town, not the bridge itself - is now a great spot for restaurants. There’s a lot to choose from there, including a newly crowned Michelin star restaurant called Sosban and the old Butchers. Well worth checking out if you get over there. There’s a great family-run fine dining small plates restaurant named Freckled Angel. I’d stop by there too. Do you have any personal favourite items from the new Oliver Spencer Spring Summer 19 line-up?

It’s such a strong collection, but I absolutely love the Pablo long sleeve cotton knit polo. The Oatmeal colourway offers something a little different, that should still go with just about everything. The perfect Spring knit for the versatility alone.

@morganmenswear | www.morganmenswear.co.uk 164 High St, Bangor | 17 Morgan Arcade, Cardiff 15 Watergate St, Chester

The 'S' Word

The Bib Grandad Shirt Cut from a 100% GOTS certified organic cotton panel

This month, we take a closer look at Oliver Spencer’s sustainable efforts and unravel the mysteries of organic cotton words by Will HALBERT

t might come as a surprise to some, but one of the most important things we can do to improve the environmental and social performance of a garment is to simply use the right fabric. After all, using the right fabric can go a long way to ensuring that energy, water and chemical input is minimised, while also looking out for the wellbeing of the workers who deal with the fabric hands on. We call these kinds of fabrics eco-fabrics, and they’re forming an ever more important part of Oliver Spencer’s seasonal lineups. Now, there’s often a collective rolling of eyes at the mere mention of organic cotton. This usually comes down to the fact that it isn’t always clear why making the switch to organic cotton can have such a profound environmental impact. But in truth, organic cotton is more than just a buzzword, it’s an assurance that the fabric has been produced in a way that respects the environment. You see, in many cases, conventionally-grown cotton can be one of the most environmentally-damaging and socially-harmful materials used in the industry. This is typically down to both the excessive use of insecticides and the high quantity of water involved in its production. For a little perspective; cotton accounts for 2.5% of world agriculture, but it uses a disproportionate 16% of world insecticides. Largely speaking, the insecticides used in cotton growing are not only damaging to the natural environment, they’re also pretty terrible for workers that come into contact with it, too. With that in mind, switching to organic cotton is a bit of a no-brainer. Sure, it comes at a greater cost to Oliver Spencer’s margins, but organic cotton eliminates the use of harmful insecticides, which helps to protect the welfare of the growers and handlers of raw-state cotton. This has a knock-on effect on the carbon footprint of cotton production, as moving away from non-organic insecticides and fertilisers increases soil fertility and cuts down on greenhouse gases. So, in Oliver Spencer's eyes, it’s more than worth the extra cost. Of course, organic cotton still requires water, but often to a far lesser degree. Organic Cotton typically requires less irrigation, and the lack of insecticides and fertilizers means that once the water has been used, there’s no risk of contaminating nearby sources. The water can also be re-used in a productive and safe way. Year-on-year, Oliver Spencer has increased the percentage of organic cotton used in the production of its collections. It’s not been an easy transition, but it has been a steady and deliberate one. Over the years, the brand has dedicated substantial time to developing fabrics with suppliers new and old that meet Oliver Spencer’s growing demand for a more sustainable approach to fashion. It’s a small step that goes a long way in showcasing the brand’s ongoing commitment to a more organic future. EJ

'Year-on-year, Oliver Spencer has increased the percentage of organic cotton used in the production of its collections. It’s not been an easy transition, but it has been a steady and deliberate one.'

The Essential Journal | Issue 43

Issue 43 | The Essential Journal

COLUMN

A Cut Above

Tailored Thoughts on

Jonathan Edwards

This month, Ian Harrold ponders the barber shop fit out and the fine line between timeless and trite

This month, Huntsman Cutter and resident Essential Journal columnist, Matthew Gonzalez, offers a case study in authenticity words by Matthew GONZALEZ

eing stylish isn’t something that we’re born with, it evolves over years of observation, experimentation, and self-expression. One of the most useful aspects of observing style is that each person we see becomes a reference point on how we could dress. Meaning we are constantly able to look around for inspiration when building our wardrobes. However, how we include what we see is just as important as what we include, so this month we are going to look at one fellow who will stand in as our case study of how authenticity is crucial to style. If you’re familiar with Jonathan Edwards, it’s probably through his Instagram account, where he posts under the handle MilanStyleLive. The name is both a nod to his company, milanstyle.com, and an homage to at least some of the sartorial influences that have helped shape his wardrobe over the years. Edwards is at the forefront of the British menswear scene right now due to his ability to almost effortlessly curate different genres of clothing in the same outfit. Growing up with family members who were tailors, bespoke was not a new concept to him as he was wearing it from his childhood. However, unlike the now fashionable ‘bespoke’ hashtags, you see all over Instagram he, along with a handful of others like Simon Crompton (Permanent Style), was one of the first young guys to really start showcasing on social media how handcrafted clothing could be incorporated into everyday wear. Even though Edwards states in his bio that the account is ‘just postcards from my business travels in the fashion industry & love of all things bespoke’ MilanStyleLive almost reads as its own fashion magazine due to its diverse sense of style. He almost goes out of his way to showcase the spectrum of styles that he is interested in. In doing so, he has created a very interesting portrait of what the modern metropolitan man looks like. He hasn’t been afraid to experiment with the clothing he wears and that experimentation has lead to a better sense of self-expression. If you were to take a cross-section of clothing that he wears in his posts you would notice a few things. First, that his wardrobe ranges from some ready to wear western style cowboy boots & leather jackets to all the way to handcrafted bespoke suitings made by some of the world’s finest tailors. Second, like a real person, he wears things multiple times. You will see the same baseball jacket, overcoat or jumper etc pop up in different outfits throughout his account. By doing this, we can see how to style the same garment in multiple ways. Also, by showcasing this variety of styles Edwards reminds us that we are not just linear characters in our own life story. We are all complex people who have an array of interests, so no single image or style could define who we are as individuals. It is a message that is often lost in the world of social media. Many of the ‘influential’ Instagram accounts are so narrow in their scope they give a skewed perspective on their subject. By posting pictures of all the different styles of clothing that he wears, Edwards reinforces the notion that being stylish is in part what you wear, but also that what you wear needs to be an authentic representation of who you are. This is a crucial element of style, it only really works if the clothing you wear seems to be an extension of your own personality. One of my favourite elements of Edwards’ Instagram account is that it doesn’t take itself too seriously. Instead of only posting high polished looking professional images we get to see behind the curation a bit. The feed is a great mixture of off-the-cuff, candid photographs with friends, the odd self-deprecating joke and, of course, his “MilanStyle TV” stories that are more often than not just a bit of fun. This combination of imagery lends a lot of credibility to Edwards’ authenticity. He is not posting images that are one-offs. The account, if anything, is a curation of images that depict his actual life. As we continually look around us for inspiration on how to dress, we mustn’t forget that style is a combination of colour, form, material, and authenticity. While I would encourage everyone to look at Edwards and others like him for reference, I would hesitate to be a carbon copy. Not because I have ever seen anything that I thought looked bad, but rather because I know I would not be able to pull off a lot of the looks that he has worn with the same level of confidence that he has. So whether you are on Instagram, reading a fashion magazine, or checking out some stylish film, follow Mr. Edwards’ lead and try to only include elements that are true to your own personality when getting dressed each today. MG

'...by showcasing this variety of styles Edwards reminds us that we are not just linear characters in our own life story. We are all complex people who have an array of interests, so no single image or style could define who we are as individuals. '

words by Ian HARROLD

s far as advertising’s favourite adjectives go, timeless is up there with the most used and abused of marketing lingo. It has a seemingly permanent place in the hall of fame of the overplayed and the void of meaning. What once meant ‘not affected by the passage of time or changes in fashion’ (cheers, Google) has in fact, become a fashion fad in itself. That’s because, the word ‘timeless’ now boils down to a cynical tug at the heartstrings of those trying to connect with a past that they never really belonged to in the first place. While this is especially true in the realm of the barbershop, it also applies to other industries. One wrong move, and the classic timelessness of the barbershop, the bar, or the coffee shop quickly descends into cheap and nasty gimmickry. A few years ago, tastes dictated that the more beards, braces and cut throat razors you threw at a venue (metaphorically, of course), the more authentic it became. Before long, everyone was walking around looking like an extra from Peaky Blinders, drinking nothing but Old Fashioneds and listening to the soothing, anachronistic sounds of delta blues. I’m not saying this is a bad thing necessarily (I mean, who doesn’t love the blues?), but it’s certainly more of a trend than a timeless style. Of course, it’s possible to go too far the other way, where attempts at a low key and understated aesthetic translate into to lazy and under-planned bombsite. No one wants to get a haircut in a place that looks as though you actually need a hardhat to enter. Nor to they want to grab a drink at a place that practically garnishes its whisky with sawdust trying to achieve post-industrial chic. Then there’s the cooler-than-you, louder-thanyou, smarter-than-you kind of spots. You know the ones. They’re full of people that were born cool; so social media savvy that they never really had to trial and error their style like the rest of us. They have absolutely no idea what they’re selling, but they look great while they’re doing it. Those spots tend to fade the fastest. Not because the venues aren't well-received, but because their proprietors have already moved on to the next big thing. But you can’t really hold it against them. It’s easy to forget that the barber shop, like the bar, is a billboard, a calling card. From the brands you stock, to the length of your queues, to the music playing in the background, all of it helps a potential guest assess whether or not he’s going to put his foot in the door and his money in the till. Gimmicks aside, the barber shop aesthetic boils down to the notion of perceived value. Up and down the price spectrum, people already have a pretty fixed idea of what they’re willing to pay for a haircut. The barber shop’s appearance has to reinforce that value. If you want a classic looking shop that maintains a certain style and quality, something that might truly pass for timeless, you have to give up on the hackneyed gimmickry. This pretty much applies to everything. Gimmicks and trends have a sell by date by default. They don’t age well. If you want to achieve a truly timeless style, don’t overthink it. Recognise the value and authenticity of your product before you start playing fancy dress with your shop. IH Instagram @ianharrold1 The Essential Journal | Issue 43

COLUMN

At the Pass with

Tommy Banks This month Tommy Banks, chef & owner of Roots (York) and the Michelin-starred Black Swan at Oldstead, talks us through the standout tracks on his personal playlist

was asked recently if I could name five tracks that would provide the soundtrack to my life so far. No small task. Music is a powerful thing, after all. It can make or break a mood, whether that’s in the kitchen or in the restaurant. Music can take us back in time. It can give us the headspace to reflect and the means to do so. Bottom line? It plays a pretty big part in our lives. But it’s often found working its magic in the background, and you never quite know which songs are going to etch themselves into your memory for the long haul. That said, here are the songs that have worked their magic in the background of my own life, and etched their choruses into my memory over the years. First up is Sister Sledge’s ‘Thinking of You’. I mean, anything involving Nile Rodgers is a no-brainer now that I think about it. But ‘Thinking about You’ is such a chilled song it’s hard to think of a time or place where it wouldn’t suit the occasion. It’s perfect first dance material, if you ask me. A chilled, groovy little number that’s also pretty fun to dance to. And I know this from experience; I’ve got some moves to this song, trust me. ‘Under Pressure’ by Queen and David Bowie is an absolute banger of historical proportions. Though if I’m honest, as amazing as the song is, it isn’t necessarily my favourite Queen song, nor is it my favourite Bowie song. Five songs isn’t an awful lot, you see. So picking a collaboration lets me kill two birds with one stone. Some might say I’m taking this too seriously, but I just like to think of it as boxing clever. It’s the chef in me. Booker T and the MGs’ ‘Soul Limbo’ is going on the list, too. In all honesty, I don’t know very much about Booker T and the MGs, but ‘Soul Limbo’ will forever remind me of watching the cricket as a kid. It’s a solid testament to the power of music and its ability to take you back to a time, a place, and a feeling that you’d have forgotten otherwise. This song definitely captures a certain, childlike excitement that’s pretty hard to put into words, and that’s what music is all about, really. I’m just going to come out with it and say that The Killers’ ‘Mr Brightside’ is going on the list. I’m not putting The Killers on the same level as Queen or David Bowie, necessarily, but ‘Mr. Brightside’ is a hugely personal song for me. It reminds me of Sixth Form, drinking in pubs I was definitely too young to get served in and tearing it around Yorkshire with my brother in his little silver Toyota Yaris (not at the same time, obviously). Of course, the song got so much radio play that it probably tugs on the heartstrings of everyone my age. Still, it’s anthemic: It’s the kind of song that comes on in a bar and everyone just seems to know the lyrics. So I’m sticking by it. Last but not least, Oasis’ ‘Don’t Look Back in Anger’. It’s a classic that really doesn’t need much of an explanation. I’d like to say that What’s the Story Morning Glory was my first album purchase, because it sounds cool. But I’d be lying. I actually used to listen to this track on the NOW 33 compilation album. So that’s my top five, but I really could go on and on: Fleetwood Mac’s ‘The Chain’, The Beatles’ ‘Day Tripper’, Bob Dylan’s ‘Hurricane’, Thin Lizzy’s ‘Dancing in the Moonlight’, they all played a pretty big part in my life growing up, and they still get plenty of airtime in the kitchen. I’m sure it’s the same for a lot of people, most would include something from The Beatles, Queen or Bob Dylan in their top five. It really makes you think about what goes into the making of a classic. Who decides what leaves a legacy and what gets forgotten? What goes on to set a benchmark for future artists, and what descends into cliché? Maybe it’s a time and a place thing. It could happen at any moment depending on the whims of the cultural zeitgeist. That’s a pretty exciting notion. There’s something pretty cool about the idea of a generation-defining classic waiting just around the corner. Who knows if the songs on my list will find themselves on someone else’s list a century from now. But if nothing else, I’ve given you a solid start to a great party playlist. TB

'First up is Sister Sledge’s ‘Thinking of

words by Tommy BANKS

You’...A chilled, groovy little number that’s also pretty fun to dance to. And I know this from experience; I’ve got some moves to

Image credit: Jack Finnigan

To find out more about Tommy's food head online: blackswanoldstead.co.uk rootsyork.com

Issue 43 | The Essential Journal

this song, trust me.'

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The Essential Journal | Issue 43

CONSENSUS

Reaching a Consensus

Restaurant Experience We reach out to those in the know to get their thoughts on the ever-changing restaurant scene

Bill GRANGER Global restaurateur and founder of Granger & Co What would you consider to be the biggest change(s) in the restaurant/ dining experience over the course of your career? The casualisation of dining over the last few years is definitely the biggest change. The restaurant scene used to be filled with either chains or really high-end restaurants, but it’s the mid-market dining experience that’s really opened up and where we’ve seen the greatest shift, particularly the rise of smaller, independent restaurants and groups such as Barrafina. Do you think social media has influenced the dining experience at all? And if so, how? In a way it has made eating out a lot more accessible and democratic. Not everyone shares the same taste, or is looking for the same thing as the more traditional restaurant reviewer and social media has opened up a lot of possibilities. Being introduced to restaurants via friends you follow is a great way to find a restaurant that really suits your personality. Do you think more people are moving away from the three-course format of dining? Or is it alive and well? Absolutely - we all eat out a lot more than we used to and sharing plates keeps the dining experience more casual. The formal three-course format is definitely more of a commitment which not everybody wants these days. Can you think of any standout restaurant experiences you've had recently? What made it stick in your mind? For a blast from the past, Six Portland Road and 7 Saints. Both are in my neighbourhood with the owners running the restaurants which I love. It’s important to support local, independent neighbourhood experiences, especially restaurants that welcome you like it’s home. What would you consider to be the most overplayed food trend, theme or ingredient in contemporary dining? I hold my hands up for this one but probably Avocado On Toast! When I first put it on the menu 25 years ago, I didn’t expect it to become such a global phenomenon, and now it’s everywhere.

Richard H TURNER Executive Head Chef at Gridiron, London What would you consider to be the biggest change(s) in the restaurant/ dining experience over the course of your career? Issue 43 | The Essential Journal

The decline of fine dining and the rise of comfortable and accessible dining. Do you think social media has influenced the dining experience at all? And if so, how? Personally, I use social media to find out about new restaurants from my peers and keep up to date with developments in the industry. It’s all extremely useful when traveling internationally. Do you think more people are moving away from the three-course format of dining? Or is it alive and well? I haven’t eaten the three course format in years, I’ve been fed twenty course on several occasions which I’m extremely dubious about, but I favour customer choice, if I want two starters and nothing else I’d like to have just that. Can you think of any standout restaurant experiences you've had recently? What made it stick in your mind? St John, always St John. But if pushed for another then Cornerstone is of course superb. What would you consider to be the most overplayed food trend, theme or ingredient in contemporary dining? Chefs are like magpies; always on the lookout for the next thing to improve their cooking arsenal. I don’t begrudge that. However, the fermentation thing got a bit out of hand at one point, and burger concepts rose and waned of course, and chicken seems to be the flavour of the month now.

Lello FAVUZZI Head Chef at Mortimer House, Fitzrovia What would you consider to be the biggest change(s) in the restaurant/ dining experience over the course of your career? Television and social media had a very big impact on the industry as well as the concept of sharing. When I got to London it was very unusual for me to go to Wagamama, Busaba, Hakkasan etc and eat on a communal table. I was impressed, it was a way to make the experience more enjoyable because you met new people and make friends. Do you think social media has influenced the dining experience at all? And if so, how? Social media has absolutely influenced the way we eat. There are two sides to social media for me - on the one hand, I think it’s great because it’s made restaurant food more accessible to many people and it helps restaurants reach new audiences. However there is the flip side, which is that it can sometimes stall the dining experience. It can stop

interviews by Will HALBERT

us from living in the moment and from really enjoying the food and the experience and atmosphere of the restaurant. That said, I think it’s certainly possible to strike the right balance, and not become a slave to it. Do you think more people are moving away from the three-course format of dining (in favour of small plates and street food, for example)? Or is it alive and well? I’d say the three-course format is slowly disappearing, as people perceive it to be a bit too rigid now. Guests want a greater choice; they want to try different dishes and drinks because each adds something special. Guests typically don't want to have a single dish anymore, they want to share. Why would you opt for a single dish if you could have six courses and experience all of them together? Street food is also better because of the value and authenticity. Living here in London, you can see how all types of food and dining styles are growing. Can you think of any standout restaurant experiences you've had recently? What made it stick in your mind? Both Brat and The Barbary are nailing the concept of being contemporary and modern with their recipes and flavours. They bring a local authenticity from their respective cuisines and a zest for sharing, flavour, and atmosphere. What would you consider to be the most overplayed food trend, theme or ingredient in contemporary dining? I think the cultural calendar has a much bigger impact on how restaurants trade now. There are days for everything! World Chicken Day, World Egg Day, World Pasta Day, Coffee Week etc., and whilst it can be good for helping some restaurants to boost sales, it sometimes becomes a bit gimmicky.

Tom ARONICA Head Chef at Ambulo, Opening Chef at Public, Sheffield What would you consider to be the biggest change(s) in the restaurant/ dining experience over the course of your career? I think the focus on the quality of ingredients: Food is much simpler now because people are sourcing the best they can and adding their own subtle twists to what is already a great product. Do you think social media has influenced the dining experience at all? And if so, how? Massively. You can see everything now - as long as someone’s willing to share it. The industry is so much smaller

because of social media - which I think is a good thing. You have the potential access to so many aspects of the industry, it can be very inspiring. Do you think more people are moving away from the three-course format of dining? Or is it alive and well? I think so. Personally I either go out and do the casual small plates thing or go all out and sit down for 10-15 courses and make a night of it - there feels to have been a move away from the whole à la carte-style of dining. I’m sure it’ll come back around though, fashions change. Can you think of any standout restaurant experiences you've had recently? What made them stick out in your mind? Had a reyt good lunch at Alchemilla in Nottingham recently. Also Kiln and P Franco. All very different but stick in my mind because obviously the food was mega but the environment was really good as well. There’s also Noodlesta in Sheffield - we go every Monday for hand thrown noodle action. Oh, and Umut 2000 - best kebab I ever had. What would you consider to be the most overplayed food trend, theme or ingredient in contemporary dining? Unnecessary micro-herbing. Been going on far too long.

Brad CARTER Chef and Proprietor of Carters of Moseley, Birmingham What would you consider to be the biggest change in the restaurant/ dining experience over the course of your career? In my opinion, the high-end dining scene is taking a big shift to be more smart-casual than formal. The customer now longs for a more personal, all-around experience, instead of being in the hands of the Chef, and rightly so. It’s cool that you can now experience world-class food in a more relaxed setting; this is reflected in the prestigious food guides as well. I feel Carters is definitely part of that new generation of high-end approachable restaurants. Do you think social media has influenced the dining experience at all? And if so, how? Absolutely. I think we now live in a generation where apps like Instagram and Twitter are the first port of call for the guest, especially among 20 to 50 year-olds. Unfortunately, we do rely on it as an industry. I don't think now you could open a cute little oyster shack on a loch and expect to be busy without the power of social media. On a positive note though, you have access to the industry in the touch of a few

buttons, every Chef and restaurateur is contactable online and the world's iconic dishes are there to view and share. It drives people to a restaurant with the exposure it gives. Do you think more people are moving away from the three-course format of dining? Or is it alive and well? I have been serving a set tasting menu reflecting the best of the U.K. and my suppliers for around 6 years. I’m a big fan of this as the best way to showcase produce. I don't believe you can give a guest a true representation of your food in just three larger dishes. Street food style dishes are more popular because it's a nice way to eat casual and lighter. It will also remind people of their travels and trips abroad, evoking nice memories. There is also something really satisfying about eating something hand-held! Can you think of any standout restaurant experiences you've had recently? I like to travel when I close the restaurant for our holidays, as I believe, as a Chef, you become better and wiser if you eat in more countries amongst different cultures. I had two outstanding meals and service experiences recently. One being Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare, New York and the other at Restaurant Frantzén in Stockholm, Sweden. They both were so focussed and at the top of their game. The experiences were so guest focussed from the beginning to the end and the food was from the best products available. It’s everything I believe in, and it was amazing to experience it at these two world-class, matured restaurants. What would you consider to be the most overplayed food trend, theme or ingredient in contemporary dining? For me, I’m not into smoke & mirrors. I’m all about the products, and so I’d have to say using dry ice to present a dish. While cooking with liquid nitrogen and dry ice can produce interesting final results, I believe using it to present the dish can take the focus away from the ingredients themselves. I think it’s cool the first time you see it, but once you have, that’s that. I would prefer a perfectly salted sardine sitting in oil any day over sitting in dry ice fog.

ET FOOD E R T S AN I D IN

•

CRAFT

BEER

OPENING THIS APRIL IN LIVERPOOL

"Uncompromising and self-confident and, above all else, clever." Jay Rayner, The Observer

LEEDS 6 MILL HILL • LS1 5DQ 34

MANCHESTER 61 PICCADILLY • M1 2AG

LIVERPOOL opening soon 19 BOLD STREET • L1 4DN The Essential Journal | Issue 43

ESSENTIAL JOURNAL X LA MARZOCCO

The London Coffee Festival

This year we'll be championing speciality coffee & discussing crossindustry challenges with espresso machine stalwarts, La Marzocco uk.lamarzocco.com

a Marzocco have been involved with The London Coffee Festival since its inception, and it’s always a date that the whole La Marzocco family look forward to. Held at Brick Lane’s iconic Old Truman Brewery and welcoming over 35,000 guests annually, it’s become one of the most popular events in the coffee calendar. With the return of the La Marzocco Home Kitchen, ‘The True Artisan Café’, and the La Marzocco Roasters Village, there’s plenty for everyone throughout the four days. Always ready to kick it up a level, though, this year’s London Coffee Festival sees the team play headline sponsor to the VIP Hospitality Suite and VIP Secret Garden. La Marzocco will also be showcasing their latest machine, the KB90, featuring innovations such as The Straight-In Portafilter. Still not enough for you? All festival visitors are invited to two La Marzocco after events: The Friday Night Throwdown and The Big Saturday Night Social. EJ

The True Artisan Cafe The True Artisan Café ™ is an award-winning, pop-up coffee shop concept that La Marzocco created to celebrate local, independent coffee communities. Here, the Artisans have to create a signature drink that reflects their style and tastes. The only stipulation? Espresso must be used, and all added ingredients must be safe and legal to use. Alcohol and unusual ingredients encouraged! Event visitors can make donations for these signature drinks, with all proceeds going to Project Waterfall. To date, donations at the True Artisan Café have raised over £10,000 for the charity. The La Marzocco Roasters Village Featuring an bumper crop of superb roasters, the La Marzocco roasters village provides guests with a unique opportunity to go on a taste journey across Europe with some of the continents best roasteries. The Roaster’s Village will be split over two floors and will showcase roasters serving their finest coffees from a La Marzocco Linea Mini. Returning from their spots last year at the festival, we have Origin Coffee Roasters, North Star Coffee Roasters, Neighbourhood Coffee Roasters and Outpost Coffee Roasters, to name just a few. The La Marzocco Kitchen La Marzocco are proud to bring back The La Marzocco Home Kitchen, where guests can connect with the company’s domestic platform, La Marzocco Home, and raise a little money for charity in the process. Guests can pre-book a 30 minute Home Barista course on a Linea Mini and Lux D Grinder in the kitchen. These pre-booked slots cost a small amount of £5 and all the money goes towards Project Waterfall. The La Marzocco VIP Hospitality Suite La Marzocco are proud headline sponsors of the VIP Hospitality Suite, and are honoured to have the line-up curated by the team at Grey Goose Vodka, bringing in bar partners such as Grind and Discount Suit Company. With a dedicated programme of DJ sets and bar takeovers, it’s a real treat. Find the VIP Secret Garden By the time The London Coffee Festival arrives, spring will have officially sprung. What better way to embrace the switch of season than at La Marzocco’s hidden VIP Secret Garden, tucked neatly away from the hustle and bustle of The Old Truman Brewery. Laze around in the sunshine, sip a cocktail (shaken-up in association with Grey Goose Vodka) and get stuck into the barbie, manned by Espresso Solutions. Latte Art Live Featuring the marvellous Modbar, Latte Art Live brings together the world’s best baristas, showcasing their insane latte art skills. Also sponsored by Ozone Coffee Roasters, expect a series of throwdowns, showcases and hands-on workshops. londoncoffeefestival.com Issue 43 | The Essential Journal

Southern Soul La Marzocco are making good on their mission to build relationships that enrich the lives of others with their upcoming Southern roadshow words by Dan HARVEY

nown for specialising in producing premium hand-crafted espresso machines, La Marzocco are taking their collective years of hospitality experience on the road and bringing the La Marzocco Roadshow to the South of the UK this Spring. From mid April through to early July, the La Marzocco team will partner with Essential Journal to connect with fans and aficionados from not just the speciality coffee realm, but also from the world of fashion, music, food and beyond. In 2018, the roadshow travelled the North of the UK, shining a light on cities outside of London that are proudly flying the flag for speciality coffee. Visiting places like Sheffield and Hull, the team connected with personalities and local pioneers over an evening of conversation, food, and drink. The Southern Roadshow will have the same ethos that made the Northern Roadshow so successful: The desire to build relationships to enrich the lives of others. There is no better way to build these relationships than through physical connections and experiences. We can follow each other on social media and engage via our phones and computers, but La Marzocco want to bring these kinds of exchanges to reality. Coffee isn’t so different from other creative industries. Like fashion and design, coffee brings us all together. From independent speciality coffee shops, to larger chains, right up to in-house office coffee bars, there are plenty of caffeine-fuelled spaces to meet, drink and dream up new ideas and concepts. This applies to the self-employed artist through to managing directors; coffee can help build connections and fuel the creation of concepts. This everyday sentiment is the beating heart behind The Roadshow. The Roadshow will visit Brighton, Margate, Hastings and Canterbury and will be drawing in speakers and panellists from the world of fashion, art and design. As always, The Roadshow will strive to show the power of diversification and synergy, so expect panel discussions and TED-style talks with personalities from a vast array of industries. As well as providing insights from a world outside of coffee, La Marzocco will bring equipment and speciality coffee to each stop off. Expect exclusive product demonstrations, sensory coffee experiences, and advice and insights for anyone wanting to start a career or business in coffee. The Southern leg of The La Marzocco Roadshow will round off in epic style with one of La Marzocco’s signature events, Out of the Box on 13th July. For more information and to register head to ootb19.eventbrite.co.uk. The team will also be running a competition to visit their home in Florence, Italy. The more events you attend the better chance you have of winning the trip. EJ

Here’s our early recommendations for the roadshow's host cities & towns... Canterbury STOUR STREET ESPRESSO @stourstreetespresso Serving Ozone coffee and a constant rotation of other UK roasteries, Stour Street also have excellent food offerings, using mainly local produce, their bacon sandwich is the talk of Canterbury. Hastings BILLYCAN COFFEE @billycancoffee Right on the Hastings beachfront, Billycan Coffee is the spot to go for a coffee and a stroll on the pier, serving Union hand-roasted coffee. Margate CLIFFS @cliffsmargate A community hub, Cliffs is the place to go to buy vinyl, join a yoga class, or get an excellent cup of coffee, serving Curve Roasters coffee. Brighton THE PLANT ROOM @TPRcoffee Just back from the seafront in the iconic Brighton Laines, The Plant Room lives up to its name, full of botanical flourishes, alongside Allpress Espresso.

Head to www.uk.lamarzocco.com/southern-soul/ and follow @lamarzoccouk for continued updates and spotlights on each of the roadshow’s host town and cities 35

ALL THE TRADITION BEHIND THE

Unique Brazilian way of serving

LEEDS

LIVERPOOL

MANCHESTER

EDINBURGH

GRANARY WHARF

EX C H A N G E F L A G S

SPINNINGFIELDS

GEORGE STREET

BIRMINGHAM COLMORE ROW

: @FazendaGroup 36

: @FazendaGroup

: @Fazenda.Group The Essential Journal | Issue 43

We're teaming up with The Whisky Exchange to shed a little light on your (new) favourite drinks categories thewhiskyexchange.com

High Spirits Spotlight

American Whiskey Delving deep into the latest and greatest from The Whisky Exchange

DRINKING

A Word from the Experts A quickfire Q&A with Nathan Shearer

Ex bartender at Swift and Callooh Callay, Nathan Shearer is now an ambassador for Speciality Brands portfolio of whiskies

First off, what do we mean when we talk about American Whiskey? How does it differ from the likes of Scotch and Irish whiskey? Pioneers from all over Europe travelled to the new world and brought with them their fermentation and distillation know how from their home countries and began utilising the crops that were native to the Americas – over time this became what we know today as American Whiskey.American Whiskey differs from Scotch Whisky and Irish Whiskey mostly in the type of grain that is used to produce the spirit. In Scotland and Ireland, barley is the main ingredient with corn sometimes being used to create grain whisky for blending. In American Whiskey, corn and rye are the predominant grains used to create the spirit.

hilst bourbon is regarded as something of a king of American Whiskey, we mustn’t forget that the myriad of distilleries in the USA give us many styles that we’d be foolish to overlook. From smooth bourbon to spicy rye, from unaged corn to sour mash, you may not love them all, but there’s almost certainly a style of American whiskey to satisfy anyone’s taste buds. Here’s our little beginner's guide to the wild and wonderful world of American whiskey. Enjoy!

What 3 words best encapsulate American whiskey for you? Bold, complex, diverse A lot of people think that American Whiskey essentially means Bourbon, what are the other options and how do they differ? Bourbon is definitely the most popular whiskey in America but there are plenty of other options on the market. If you like a slightly spicier whisky then you could try Rye Whiskey – whiskey that is made from a minimum of 51% rye grain. Or you could try a Tennessee Whiskey – similar to a bourbon but it undergoes an extra step known as the Lincoln County process which produces a very smooth and easy drinking whiskey. There has been an increase in the production of American Single Malt Whiskey as well – whiskey made from 100% malted barley and distilled in a pot still. Do you have a favourite classic cocktail that calls for American whiskey? Manhattan

1 Corn

2 Bourbon

3 Rye

4 Sour Mash

The secret to corn whiskey is in its name – it must have a corn content of over 80% and has earned a cult following among bartenders eager to add weighty character into their cocktails.

To be called bourbon, a whiskey must be made with mostly corn (51-80% of the mash bill, or ‘recipe’), supplemented by wheat, rye and/or barley and aged in new, charred white-oak barrels. This makes most bourbon sweet and smooth with notes of vanilla, toffee and oak. The majority of bourbon is made in Kentucky, but distilleries from Texas to New York are now producing their own bourbons.

Rye is quite the opposite of bourbon. The mash bill must contain at least 51% rye which makes it spicier than most bourbons. Rye whiskey is for the palate that likes a little more punch, especially in an Old Fashioned.

Sour mash whiskey can neither be considered a rye or a bourbon and is made in much the same way as sourdough, whereby some of the fermented mash is held over from one batch of whiskey to start the fermentation on the next batch. This produces a beautifully rich and spicy, but very smooth whiskey.

Our Pick Balcones Baby Blue Award-winning Balcones Baby Blue was the first whisky to be legally distilled in Texas, made from roasted blue corn (a type of flint corn, similar to sweet corn but with a distinctive blue colour.) It has butter, corn, spice and fruity notes combined with a rounded nuttiness. 70cl | 46% | £66.95

Our Pick Eagle Rare 10 Year Old A top quality bourbon from Buffalo Trace Distillery and the 10 Year Old is deliciously fragrant and woody, one of the best value for money bottles available. 70cl | 45% | £37.75

Our Pick WhistlePig 10 Year Old TWE Exclusive One of the most sought-after exponents is Vermont’s WhistlePig and this exclusive single cask bottling for The Whisky Exchange is an incredibly special one. It has been nurtured for 10 years and is packed full of delicious rye spice and notes of minty green leaves. 75cl | 59.8% | £125

Our Pick Michter’s US*1 Original Sour Mash Whiskey Michter’s US*1 Original Sour Mash Whiskey was recently named The Whisky Exchange’s Whisky of the Year 2019, in the only official blind whisky tasting undertaken by the public. This is a harmonious whiskey with plenty of rich fruit and sweet spice – cinnamon, butter and almond marry well with a hint of black pepper.

Can you think of a standout signature American whiskey cocktail during your time behind the bar? Allied Forces 50ml Michter’s Rye 20ml Mulled Cider Syrup 20ml Cocchi Torino 5ml Suze This was on the menu at Callooh Callay back in 2015 – a simple twist on a manhattan with a nice bitter edge from the suze. How do you prefer to drink your whiskey? Neat with a beer on the side. Somebody walks into your bar and wants to see what American Whiskey is all about, how do you ease them into it? American Whiskey is a diverse category, you can go from caramel sweetness to candied fruits to oaky tannins. It really depends what type of things the guest has had before, if they’re new to whiskey then something on the sweeter side with a lower ABV would probably be the best thing. But if they’ve been drinking peated Scotch for years then maybe something with a bit more bite and a higher ABV would be the best. There’s definitely an American Whiskey out there for everyone and every situation. Where’s the best place in town to get your American whiskey fix? Definitely too hard to pick just one…Swift – Soho, Blues Kitchen – Shoreditch, Nola – Bethnal Green, The Lexington – King’s Cross

70c | 43% | £49.95 Issue 43 | The Essential Journal

DRINKING

DRINKING WITH

Drinking With

BELZAN They say that to be a jack of all trades is to be a master of none, but Liverpoolâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Belzan begs to differ. Part cocktail bar, part small plates bistro, Belzanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s menus provide plenty of proof that quality, authenticity and innovation are not exclusive to a city centre postcode

words by Will HALBERT

The Essential Journal | Issue 43

DRINKING

Get the Round In

Chris Edwards Quickfire questions answered in the time it takes Belzan’s co-owner to open up a fresh bottle of Pompon Rouge Were you ever daunted by the idea of opening a bar outside of city centre? A little, but there’s a lot to be said for shaking yourself out of a certain complacency and taking a punt on somewhere different. I’m a firm believer in the notion that quality speaks louder than location. So we stuck to our guns, we made nice things as best as we could, and we just let entropy do its thing. What’s the story behind the name Belzan? I’m a big fan of Honoré de Balzac, who was known not just for his writing, but for his pretty impressive gluttony. Trying to say Balzac with a scouse accent yields some pretty comical results though, so we settled on Belzan. Ultimately meaningless but very memorable, and much easier to say with a scouse accent. Does that French angle fit into Belzan’s theme at all? Inspiration for the menu definitely comes from us eating at restaurants like Le Grand Bain, Au Passage, and Clown Bar in Paris. We don’t lay the theme on too thick; the ethos is really just to cook plates of things we like to eat, without messing with the ingredients too much, and that filters through into the drinks side of things, too. Natural wine is really well represented here, why do you think it’s suddenly so popular? I think context, method, and provenance have become much more important to drinkers and diners. People are more conscientious now; they have a much greater interest in where and how their food and drink is made. Natural and low-intervention wines tend revel in that transparency. And I think people enjoy watching the rituals behind wine drinking relax a little. And lastly, what’s your house shot? Snaquiris (snack-sized daiquiris) all the way. They require a little more effort but they’re more than worth it.

Featured Libation

Secret Ingredient

The Ace in the Hole

Irish Ramos

Nettle Vermouth

The Staff Dinner

An Irish twist on a long-standing classic. Belzan’s Irish Ramos boasts a masterful balance between the bold and the understated. The rich, creamy, fruit and nut notes of the butter-washed Redbreast Irish Whiskey are reinforced with a little Pedro Ximenez sherry. Walnut and vanilla round and mellow, while a dash or two of Abbott’s Bitters bring a touch of cinnamon spice to the mix. For all the copper-still clout of the whiskey and richness of the cream involved, the Irish Ramos is a light, cheerful and meringue-esque little number that - aside from being delicious - boasts an almost sculptured finish on the foam.

Playing with the typical bittersweet charm of its Martini Ambrato base, Belzan’s addition of a green tea and nettle tincture ramps up the vermouth’s quintessential herbaceousness. The result is a delicately balanced little backbar secret that not only elevates a classic negroni, but also imbues it with a strong sense of seasonality. For most, the negroni is a menu mainstay regardless of the weather, but Belzan’s bespoke vermouth adds a pinch of playful experimentation to the classic cocktail, imparting some serious bite (or should we say sting?) along the way.

Anyone who’s ever worked in the service industry will tell you that a bartender’s staple diet typically consists of half a can of Redbull and a pack of Quavers. Not so at Belzan. Their staff dinner ensures that each and every member of staff gets a sit down meal. It’s not only a chance for the Belzan staff to sit down together before service, but it’s also a great place for the Belzan chefs to work their magic on the daily specials. Better yet, they’re always sure to make a few extra portions for their guests, so keep an out for the Staff Dinner on Belzan’s specials board.

Issue 43 | The Essential Journal

What’s On April – June

Tuesday 9 April 7.30pm

Sunday 12 May 7.30pm

King of Ghosts

Georgie Fame and the BBC Big Band

Wednesday 24 April 7.30pm

The Solid Silver 60s

Saturday 18 May 8pm Tales From The Last Days Of August & The Butterfly Effect

Tuesday 30 April 8pm Music Room

Jon Ronson

Carla Morrison

Age Restriction: 16+

Friday 10 May 8pm Thursday 23 May 8pm Saturday 15 June 8pm Friday 28 June 8pm Music Room

Box Office 0151 709 3789 liverpoolphil.com

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Principal Partners Thanks to the City of Liverpool for its financial support

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Image Jon Ronson

DINING

From Bradford to Bold St. We sit down with Bundobust co-founder, Mayur Patel, to talk family traditions and street food done a little differently interview by Thomas SUMNER

Mayur & Marko in their new Bold St., Liverpool restaurant

Mayur, tell us a little about yourself and your life pre-Bundobust. Well, my family have been in the restaurant business for nearly 30 years. My mum and dad set up a little deli in quite an Asian-rich area of Bradford. So I’ve always moved around in environments steeped in Muslim and Hindu culture. Before long my older brother came up with the idea of putting a few seats in the deli and turning into more of a restaurant. We happened to run the laundrette next door to the deli, so we decided to close that down and use it for extra seating space. That scored us about 8 seats [laughs]. It was a tiny restaurant. A little rough around the edges, too. Visually, it was a little naff in its early stages, but we were getting noticed for the quality of our food. It really planted a seed for both myself and my brother. We realised that we enjoyed the restaurant game and we knew we wanted to push it further. Where did things go from there? Around 2010 we got a call from Gordon Ramsay's crew. They were looking for the best examples of various cuisines on a regional basis, they were taking the best Indian restaurants in the North and pitting them against the best in the South. It was all good fun, and we ended up coming in as the runners up. It was a huge step forward for us. It also never hurts to get a little advice from Gordon Ramsay. My brother went on to open Prashad in a bigger site. With a Bib Gourmand and two AA Rosettes, it now sits more along the fine dining side of things. Personally, I’ve always been fascinated with the more community-forward, small plates, side of dining. So that’s the direction I wanted to head in with Bundobust. Talk us through the early days of Bundobust. I didn’t have a set-in-stone concept at first, and it was only after doing a little collab with Marko Husak, founder of Sparrow Pub in Bradford, that things started to take shape. Then we teamed up permanently and it all really kicked off from there. We did a few pop-ups, takeovers and festivals (some more successful than others, if I'm honest) while we tried to get the brand out there and hone our concept a little. To this day, people have such an odd perception of Indian food. They can’t get the curry house out of their head. So the pop ups taught us that there was definitely a niche in the market. We settled on a menu that was easy to share. No starters and mains or any of that, just good food worth sharing with friends, and of course, a couple of great beers to wash it down with. The rest is history.

'We happened to run the laundrette next door to the deli, so we decided to close that down and use it for extra seating space. That scored us about 8 seats [laughs].'

What’s the deal with the all vegetarian menu? The veggie and vegan stuff was never really the plan, necessarily. It was just the natural way of things for us. My parents are from the state of Gujarat, which is a predominantly vegetarian state. There is meat, of course. But by and large the people there have a naturally vegetarian diet. I’m not vegetarian myself, but vegetarian cuisine just comes more naturally to me as, that’s all I’ve ever really worked with. Meat just didn’t really enter into the equation. Tell us a little about the beer side of things. When we started out with our first family restaurant, we didn’t serve alcohol full-stop. So once we started playing around with ideas for Bundobust, we really wanted to take the alcohol side of things very seriously. I was looking into it based not on what I knew, but what I new I liked. The rest came with the experience I gained working alongside Marko and the guys at Sparrow. If we wanted to move beyond the British stereotype of Indian food, we needed to offer more than just a few shit lagers and hot curries [laughs]. We wanted a decent selection of IPAs, for a start. They’re not only historically relevant to the Anglo-Indian theme we were going for, but they tend to be so much bigger in taste. There’s a lot going on in there, it keeps the selection interesting. Does the beer menu tend to change a lot? We try not to restrict ourselves to a core list of beers. We prefer to keep a decent rotation going so that guests can always try something new. We like to represent local breweries as much as possible, too. Both Magic Rock and Northern Monk in Leeds, for example. Marble Brewers in Manchester. We’ll look to do the same in Liverpool once we open up too. Fan favourite, the Okra Fries

Any plans to brew your own beers at all? We’ve brewed with Northern Monk for a while, and we’re looking to do some of our own brewing in the near future. One of the main reasons we want to brew for ourselves is just to get good at it. I love the idea of mastering new skills. Ultimately, I want to have as much control over what’s in our brews as I do over what’s in our kitchen. Your sites, the new Liverpool venue included, tend to be hidden in plain sight, is that intentional? I quite like the fact that we’ve become everyone’s little secret. Word of mouth will always be the most organic way to do things I think. I mean, a place has to speak for itself if it’s going to survive. This makes

Issue 43 | The Essential Journal

DINING Bhel Puri, a Bundo must eat

'There’s a great synergy between the Northern cities, everything meshes together really well. We’re happy to be a part of it.'

sure that we’re on the tips of the tongues of the people we want to see through our doors. It’ll be interesting to see how things work out at our new Liverpool site. Drawing people in off the ever-busy Bold Street will be a challenge, but a fun one nonetheless. We’re looking forward to what the future holds for Bold Street. Not just in the case of Bundobust itself, but the street as a whole.

What’s made you stick to the North in your choice of cities so far? Both myself and Marko are Northern men, it’s where we feel most comfortable. We’ve built up some great relationships here in the North. I’m sure we’ll head South eventually, but for now we like it just where we are. The North is such an underrepresented region in certain aspects and so we’re loving the chance to fly the flag a little. There’s a great synergy between the Northern cities, everything meshes together really well. We’re happy to be a part of it. Any lessons learned over the years that you’d care to share with us? Take things slow, when it’s ready it’s ready. It’s important to think long term. That means having everything down, even staff training, before you’ve opened. There’s no sense holding yourself to crazy deadlines if the quality is going to suffer in the long run. Nowadays, Bundobust is in a much stronger position in that respect. We’ve had a fair few runs at it, and we can invite potential staff over to Manchester or Leeds to let them dip their toes in the water before seeing if they want to jump in. It’s a great way for people to meet the team. A lot of them have been around since day dot. People just tend to stick around! We’re a family more than anything. It’s important to nurture that. We never want to rush things.

'Just as people tend to barhop, people are now applying the same philosophy to food. The three-course meal is a lovely thing to go for, but it’s no longer the only option.'

Retail is dropping while the restaurant industry seems to be thriving. Why do you think that is? I think the internet is playing a large part in that trend. People have almost exclusively taken to ordering clothes online. The whole process of trying something on in store only to find it cheaper online just isn’t very sustainable. From a restaurant perspective, small plate dining has made things a little more approachable. People no longer commit to spending an entire evening’s budget in one place anymore. They want to experiment, they want to move around a little more. Just as people tend to bar-hop, people are now applying the same philosophy to food. The three-course meal is a lovely thing to go for, but it’s no longer the only option. I’m no expert or anything, I’m just basing this on my own experience of what I like, if I’m honest [laughs].

So someone walks through Bundobust’s doors for the first time. They’re totally new to the idea of Indian small plates. What three dishes do you recommend? That’s a good one! Generally we’re about the communal, sharing vibe. We offer combos to really help along on that feeling of conviviality and sharing. But on your own? I’d say definitely go for the Bundo Chaat; easily one of my favourites and an absolute menu mainstay. The chutney we use it exactly the same as the recipe used by my parents in our deli. Hugely labour intensive but totally worth it. Okra fries are another good one. These were developed during our pop up events. A real labour of love, these took a little while to perfect so we’re particularly proud of them now we finally have them nailed! Lastly, there’s our Chole Saag. It’s our twist on a traditional chickpea and spinach masala. Lots of warming spices and a real house favourite. I’d definitely give that a go. bundobust.co.uk 42

The Essential Journal | Issue 43

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The Essential Journal | Issue 43

CULTURE

Architectural Thoughts on

Ruins This month, our resident architectural columnist, Róisín Hanlon, discusses the odd romance of ruin words by Róisín HANLON

ast month I wrote about the Grand Tour and how young travellers ventured to classical Greece and Italy to study architecture and art. One of the main things they studied were ruins; creating sketches and paintings of the tumbling structures they found. They were captivated by the romance and intrigue they created. Perhaps this was when the fascination with ruin and dereliction really took hold. Upon their return to England, some architects designed follies that would mimic the sights they saw abroad, by being built to already look like they were old and falling down. There is something about a building that is falling down that makes it easier to imagine a personal connection with it. Perhaps the fact that all of the furniture, users and belongings have been stripped away, leaving behind a blank canvas for us to paint on. So many people seem to have a dream project – an ‘if I won the lottery, that’s the one I’d save’. La Fábrica in Sant Just Desvern is the outcome of one such daydream. Architect Ricardo Bofill fell in love with the derelict ruins of a cement factory just outside Barcelona. Built in phases from the 1930s to late 60s, the factory is a series of (shockingly) concrete structures, with tall cylindrical silos. Bofill retained these soaring brutalist structures, softening them with climbing vegetation and gardens. At night they are illuminated from within with a warm light - coupled with the trailing plants, this gives the complex an otherworldly, almost fairytale like quality, which contrasts playfully with the heavy concrete forms. A similar project, but in the southern hemisphere, won Design Museum’s 2018 Beazley Designs of the Year competition. The Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa, designed by Heatherwick Studios, transformed a 1920s grain silo on Cape Town’s waterfront, into the largest art institution on the African continent. Heatherwick described the existing building as ‘the world’s tubiest building’ as the interior was like a honeycomb of tall, thin vertical silos. To create the entrance atrium, these ‘tubes’ were carved and sliced into, creating a void which is surrounded by the distorted ovals and curves those cuts created. From outside, the building looks much like it used to – until you get to the top floors. Here, the walls have been stripped back to the grid and infilled with glazing. The distinctive windows curve outwards from the building, the idea was to ‘add softness’. For me there is something slightly unsettling about these windows - it is as if the building was inflating from inside and the windows are showing the strain. They are certainly a strikingly modern feature against the old concrete around them – and hint at the new secrets within. Here in the north of England, we have our fair share of buildings lying empty, as well as once crumbling buildings that have been restored. In some we can see that old tradition of storytelling. St. Luke’s church in Liverpool (the Bombed-Out Church to friends) has been left as it was after being hit by an incendiary device in World War II. It stands as a memorial to the people of Liverpool who lived and died during the Blitz of 1941. The interior of the church has a romantic appeal with its roofless centre and glassless windows, and this has made it an atmospheric venue for all sorts of occasions - film nights, weddings, festivals and yoga. It is also a successful example of a damaged building enjoying a new lease of life with very little refurbishment. A true living ruin. RH

'There is something about a building that is falling down that makes it easier to imagine a personal connection with it. Perhaps the fact that all of the furniture, users and belongings have been stripped away, leaving behind a blank canvas for us

image credit: Grant Durr

to paint on.'

Issue 43 | The Essential Journal

BUSINESS

Coffee & Counsel with

Adonis Michael Pondering the potential legal pitfalls of space tourism over coffee with Michael Rose & Baylis director, Adonis Michael words by Adonis MICHAEL

lon Musk, Jeff Bezos and Richard Branson. What do these three men all have in common? They’re all billionaires, you say? That’s true, but keep digging. They’re all self-made billionaires, you add? A useful distinction, but still not what I had in mind. They’re all innovative businessmen pushing the boundaries, you venture to guess? You’re getting closer now. They’re all independently working on their own projects to make affordable space tourism a reality within the next 5-10 years, you finally proclaim? Ding ding ding! Right answer. At this juncture, space tourism is no longer science fiction, it’s very much a reality. And it’s a much closer reality than many of us quite realise. Instead of that trip to Barbados you were dreaming of taking over the next few years, you may well find yourself boarding a vessel emblazoned with “Virgin Galactic” or “Blue Origin”, bound for the stars. Everything surrounding this technological revolution is gearing up accordingly: Virgin Galactic has signed up more than 200 prospective space tourists; spaceships designed specifically for space tourists have been built; and supporting infrastructure for space tourism has already been installed in New Mexico, Texas and Florida. Closer to home, here in the UK, our government has announced plans to build at least 8 spaceports, six of which are confirmed for Scotland. So, it’s safe to say we’re travelling at rocket speed (sorry, couldn’t help myself) toward the new and unknown. But we’ve been here before, haven’t we? The internet came along and changed everything forever, and almost overnight at that. Unfortunately, the laws surrounding its use had to play catch up. It took time, and it’s safe to say there were some hiccups along the way. History seems to be repeating itself with space tourism. Simply put, the basic framework of space law - upon which space tourism will be based - remains awkward and designed predominantly to apply only between sovereign states. Don’t believe me? Just listen to the names of some of the treaties that provide our current legislature: The Outer Space Treaty (1967), the Astronaut Treaty (1968), and the Moon Treaty (1979). These aren’t really relevant to space tourism, and provide no protection for space tourists. The Space Liability Convention (1971), on the other hand, dictates that any damage or accidents caused by objects from space-active states is their responsibility, and those states will have to cough up for any damage and compensation as a result. In truth, the Space Liability Convention pretty much had all bases covered until recently. But our old friends, Jeff, Elon and Rich are making serious moves of late, and the laws surrounding their progress are simply not keeping up. This leaves a lot open to speculation: What will happen if two shuttles collide? Or if there’s a crash landing? How would unruly passengers be dealt with? What if a passenger gets food poisoning or falls ill? It starts to bring a whole new dimension to travel sickness and whiplash claims, doesn’t it? Cue claimant lawyers rubbing their hands together with glee. There are so many avenues open to be exposed and dealt with under the law of Tort, and a multitude of criminal and civil jurisdictional nightmares to boot. Where do we even start? If we can draw some similarities to airlines, then the starting point is the Montreal Convention. This provides the rules on International Air Carrier Liability, and some states have already made noises about expanding this to cover space tourism, which seems logical and sensible. For the time being, Space Tourism will involve leaving the Earth’s atmosphere and taking in the views, which is problematic enough, legally speaking. And we all know where this is leading: Just wait until you get your brochure for that holiday on Mars, in a luxury dome, complete with its own waterfall. Sounds great, but the liabilities, legalities and compensation claims arising from negligence here are simply out of this world (last pun, I promise). Who knows where this will take us. But speaking as a lawyer? I may have just dreamt up my next big venture. AM

'What will happen if two shuttles collide? Or if there’s a crash landing? How would unruly passengers be dealt with? What if a passenger gets food poisoning or falls ill? It starts to bring a whole new dimension to travel sickness and whiplash claims, doesn’t it?'

The Essential Journal | Issue 43

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