style
lifestyle
drinking
travel
Dining
A closer look at the Paynter Jacket
Freedom according to Indian Motorcycles
Drinking with Dishoom Manchester
Tim Voors and The Great Alone
Jake O'Brien Murphy talks ‘Paris Syndrome’
page 12
page 19
page 44
page 37
page 46
In pursuit of a quality lifestyle
Issue 48
From the long haul to the short stay, the roadtrip to the city break, we dedicate this issue to all things...
Travel & Adventure
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Official WLTP Fuel Consumption for the Range Rover Velar Autobiography Dynamic Edition in mpg (l/100km): Combined 23.0 (12.3). NEDCeq CO2 Emissions 270 g/km. The figures provided are as a result of official manufacturer’s tests in accordance with EU legislation. For comparison purposes only. Real world figures may differ. CO2 and fuel economy figures may vary according to factors such as driving styles, environmental conditions, load and accessories.
Contents
Features
8 | THE PRIMER A rundown of the places we’ve been, the shows we've seen and the drinks we've enjoyed this month 10 | BOOKS FOR THE MONTH AHEAD From vivid nature writing to epic tales of cross-country adventure, here’s our round-up of books for the month ahead
23 | STAND OUT DESTINATIONS: BARCELONA
Tessuti offer up a masterclass in beating the heat in true, streetwear-forward style and ease
12 | ONE THING DONE WELL: PAYNTER JACKET CO We delve into Paynter’s first run of limited edition, next level chore coats
31 | THE CUTTING EDGE
Liverpool’s Spire Hospital showcases its pioneering spinal surgery
14 | MEET THE MAKERS: ZOE WILSON We deep dive into the world of craft continues this month with stone cutter, Zoe Wilson 17 | CALIFORNIA DREAMIN’ Fine British tailoring meets West Coast style in Oliver Spencer’s latest summer capsule 19 | FREEDOM IS A FULL TANK Sam Webb puts an all-American icon through its paces in the Great Britsh countryside
25 | UNDER THE STYLE SPOTLIGHT
Relaunching for AW19, Ben Sherman’s The Series unveils the very best in established and up-and-coming talent
46 | RECIPE: MAPO TOFU DON SICHUAN TOFU & AUBERGINE RICE BOWLS Courtesy of Atsuko’s Japanese Kitchen by Atsuko Ikeda
24 | TAILORED THOUGHTS ON: INVISIBLE ACCESSORIES TO MAKE YOU LOOK GREAT Matthew Gonzales offers up his top tips to looking your best and keeping your sartorial edge all day long 24 | A CUT ABOVE Is a barbershop simply a barbershop wherever you go? Ian Harold talks us through his love affair with travel 29 | A GLOBAL COMMUNITY MEETS A WORLD-CLASS STANDARD We delve into just what it is that makes a Barry’s session ‘the best work out in the world’
26 | CELEBRATING TIMEHONOURED TRADITION
David M Robinson celebrates the launch of its refurbished Manchester showroom
Charting Breddos’ evolution from makeshift taco shack to street-food success story
PUBLISHERS Singleton Publishing
CONTRIBUTORS Adonis Michael Atsuko Ikeda Chris Reid Clara Le Fort Ferran Adriá Hawley Dunbar Ian Harrold James Threllfall Joe Davies Luke Campbell Matthew Gonzalez Mike Lowe Nathan Retzer
51 | FROM MEXICO TO SOHO
Neil Barrett Nicole Ferris Nud Dudhia Rob Butterworth Roger Frampton Róisín Hanlon Sam Webb Scott James Tereza Vertatova Tim Voors Tommy Banks Tristan Banning Zoe Wilson
32 | JAMES THRELFALL: ON FAILURE James Threlfall lets us in on his experience with injury and complacency, where it took him, and what he learned from it
35 | REACHING A CONSENSUS: TRAVEL We check in with a few of our frequent flyer friends to find out some of their favourite spots, must-see places, and essential carry-ons 37 | GOING IT ALONE We talk to Tim Voors about the restorative qualities of going it alone in the natural world 43 | FROM BEAN TO BARISTA AND BEYOND La Marzocco probe a few of their favourite UK roasters about their far-out journeys into the weird and wonderful world of speciality coffee 44 | DRINKING WITH DISHOOM Old-world Grandeur meets next-level Gimlets at Dishoom Manchester’s Persian-inspired Permit Room 46 | HIGH SPIRITS SPOTLIGHT: WORLD WHISKY We venture to unexpected lands for an exploration of world whisky 46 | ADDRESSING THE TABLE Jake O'Brien Murphy, ponders on the double-act of disillusion and delight that defines the city of Paris 49 | AT THE PASS WITH TOMMY BANKS Being well-read is just as important as being well-travelled, and the journey of the dish will always be more interesting than the journey of the chef behind it 53 | ARCHITECTURAL THOUGHTS: ALTERNATIVE TRAVEL TOURISM Why hit up the the obvious landmarks when you can check out the latest and greatest architectural feats? Róisín offers up a hitlist of buildings worth seeking out on your travels 53 | SHIPWRECKED IN STYLE Shipwreck Lodge preserves some of the world’s most vulnerable wildlife species and looks damn good in the process 54 | COFFEE & COUNSEL WITH ADONIS MICHAEL Adonis Michael, gives us a little advice on what to do should your well-earned vacation go awry
PARTNERSHIP MANAGER Lara Poynor l.poynor@singletonpublishing.co.uk
EDITOR Will Halbert | w.halbert@singletonpublishing.co.uk CREATIVE DIRECTOR Thomas Sumner | t.sumner@singletonpublishing.co.uk STAFF WRITER | Elliot Ramsey LEAD DESIGNER | Jennifer Swaby SOCIAL MEDIA | Shona Radcliffe
For all advertising enquiries please contact: sales@essentialjournal.co.uk For all other enquiries including guest editorial and feature opportunities please contact: info@essentialjournal.co.uk
TERMS & CONDITIONS Under no circumstances must any part of this publication be reproduced without prior permission to the
FRONT COVER Sam Webb | wearing Barbour seated on Indian Scout Bobber photographed by Colin Dack @colin_dack
publisher. Whilst every effort is taken, the publisher shall not be held responsible for any errors. Furthermore, the publisher shall not be held responsible for any advertising material/content. Please also note that the views and opinions written within this publication do not necessarily represent the views and opinions of the publisher. All prices and details stated within this publication are correct at the time of print, however these are subject to change and the publisher shall not be held responsible for these. Third party contributions own exclusive copyright to their own material that they have submitted as part of the
web www.essentialjournal.co.uk Issue 48 | The Essential Journal
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T H E S E R IE S A CURATE D COLLE CTION OF IN SP IRATION AL I NDI VI DU A LS.
L UK E CA MP BELL MBE O LYMPI C GOL D MEDALL IS T
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THE PRIMER
FIVE-IN-FIVE
‘Travel makes one
Short but sweet Essential
modest. You see what
Journal Favourites
a tiny place you
MUSIC
occupy in the world.’ - GUSTAVE FLAUBERT
A note from
Travel, it seems
the editor
to me, is many things to many people. For
some, it’s a necessity as grave and serious as the air we breathe and the food we eat. For others, it’s a long-awaited reward for something good or a much-
What We're Looking Forward to Trying
What We’ve Been Drinking
The New Cottonopolis cocktail Menu Manchester
Wild Turkey Longbranch
Cottonopolis’ ‘Idioms’ menu quite rightly won both Imbibe Magazine’s ‘avant garde drinks list of the year’ and ‘best overall drinks list of the year’ back in 2018. Never ones to rest on their laurels, however, Gethin and the team at Cottonopolis have just released their latest menu, ‘Principles’. Separated into five Japanese principles of aesthetics (such as wabi sabi - an acceptance of impermanence and imperfection - and yūgen - an appreciation of profound grace and subtlety), the menu is set to offer up more of Cottonopolis’ now famously approachable, humble sophistication.
needed escape from something
Farfisa Song by Camp Saint Helene 8-track summer camp inspired rock
APP As smooth as Matthew McConaughey’s Texan drawl, this collaborative bourbon boasts some serious smoky sweetness thanks to a refined, double charcoal filtration process. This smallbatch Wild Turkey release - the brainchild of actor-turned-Creative-Director, Matthew McConaughey and Master Distiller, Eddie Russell - offers a liquid ode to southern charm. Filtered using white oak charcoal from Kentucky and mesquite charcoal from Texas, Longbranch carries standout notes of caramel, pear and vanilla upfront, with a spicy, lightly-smoked-but-softlysweet finish. Perfect for on-the-rocks sipping or Old-Fashioned flexing.
Komoot Hiking trail navigation made easy
bad. Travel can be either a change of scenery or a return home; a fond farewell or a warm hello (and let’s be Travel is a far-flung journey to
BOOK
a foreign land, it’s a quick trip to a neighbouring city, it’s a brief walk in the park. Travel is many things to many people, but for all, it’s a story. Even if they don’t quite know it yet. And for us here at the Essential Journal, it’s the theme of this month’s issue. Enjoy.
Will HALBERT Editor
What We’ve Been Watching
What We’ve Been Eating
The Great Hack
Erst, Manchester
Netflix’s latest attempt to stay relevant comes in the form of the ultimately shallow, news-to-noone-under-40 ego-stroke, The Great Hack. A little ham-fisted in its delivery and none-too subtle in its partisanship, The Great Hack simply isn’t the great reveal it thinks it is. It is a recap, a story so far, and nothing more. This simply should not be news, and any indignance, outrage or surprise that stems from this documentary is further proof that people need to log off and take a look around. If you’re relying on Netflix to educate yourself on the perils of big data and the glaring-butactually-kinda-consensual exploitation of your personal profiles, then you’re not just ignorant, you’re part of the problem.
One of the newest additions to the burgeoning hospitality scene in Ancoats, Erst is a distinctly minimalist restaurant from the team behind the Trove bakery. While at first glance the food at Erst is fairly unassuming, it is, in many ways, a perfectly formed menu, with a small selection of dishes made using the finest in seasonal produce. There's plenty bang for you buck here - its plates are bursting with freshness, with the salt cod standing out as a highlight of our visit. Erst is, at its heart, a unique European restaurant, serving simple, no nonsense food with a wholesome dash of panache.
The Image The Dolomites, north-eastern Italy Featured in Ride Out! Motorcycle Roadtrips and Adventures (p. 244-245) published by Gestalten, available August 21st
8
East by Meera Sodha A vegan culinary-quest across Asia
PODCAST
The Offbeat Life Travelling entrepreneurs share their stories
In Italy’s northernmost province, the Dolomites are a mountain range straddling German, Austrian and Italian cultures. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2009, the area was once a part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and South Tyrol, on the border of Austria, only became part of Italy in 1919. As such, the Germanic language and culture in Austria has travelled south into the Italian region, with a large proportion of its residents speaking minor Bavarian dialects. As well as its peculiar culture, the Dolomites’ formidable cliff edges, winding passes and stunning vistas position it as one of the most unique areas in Europe, prime for exploring on a road trip to remember.
The Essential Journal | Issue 48
Image credit: Jordan Michael (Erst)
@lefooding The bible of global eating
honest: at its best it’s both).
Image credit: Peter-Jan Willems and Sébastien Nunes
THE IMAGE
Issue 48 | The Essential Journal
9
BOOKS
From vivid nature writing to epic tales of cross-country adventure, here’s our round-up of books for the month ahead words by Elliot RAMSEY
Two Wheels South by Matias Corea
Charting his trip from Brooklyn to Patagonia by motorcycle, Matias Corea’s Two Wheels South is as much an emotional journey as it is a physical one. The route he travels is an opportunity to reconnect with his own cultural heritage - having been raised in Barcelona to Argentinian parents, Corea’s journey symbolises a return to his family’s South American roots, a chance to explore the familiar yet unfamiliar. Documenting the highs and lows of his once in a lifetime, 20,000-milelong road trip, Two Wheels South is a call to action, a reminder to embrace life and make the journeys we want to - and now. Two Wheels South (Gestalten) is available now
Afropean by Johny Pitts
Growing up black and working class in Sheffield during the Thatcher years, Johny Pitts has had an understandably challenging relationship with what it means to be British in the present day. Afropean is a journey in search of a language through which to situate oneself, offering up vital discourse on cultural complexity and fighting back against the hyphenation of identity. Taking us through Paris, Brussels, Berlin and further afield, Pitts tours the unique, diverse cultures that inhabit our cities, challenging the assumed synonymisation of Europeanness and whiteness. Afropean is an exploration of those who seek to forge new identities - those who eschew the constraints of the label and step out of the in-between. Afropean (Allen Lane) is available now
Bloc Life by Peter Molloy
The Living Mountain by Nan Shepherd
Written in the 1940s but left unpublished until 1977, The Living Mountain by Scottish modernist writer Nan Shepherd is now recognised as one of the finest works of mountain literature. Re-issued by Canongate this year with an introduction by nature writer Robert Macfarlane, this non-fiction volume documents Shepherd’s love of the Cairngorm mountains in north-east Scotland and homes in on the beauty of adventure in the day-to-day. Having spent her life living at the foot of the mountains, this is a book about journeys that consume our lives - about fascination, enduring love and chasing lifelong adventure at every opportunity.
Subtitled Stories from the Lost World of Communism, Peter Molloy’s new book deals with a reality that vanished overnight, and a way of life that divided both people and nations. Based on the first-hand testimony of those who lived in East Germany, Romania and Czechoslovakia during the Cold War era and around the fall of the Berlin Wall, Bloc Life documents the diverse and varied experiences of those who lived through communism, how their lives were altered and how the revolutions of 1989 have impacted on our democracies in the present. Uncovered here are the stories behind the headlines, the police surveillance and the political activism - the real words of those who lived it. Bloc Life (Ebury) is available now
The Living Mountain (Canongate) is available now.
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The Essential Journal | Issue 48
Find out more at johnsmedley.com/discover/legacy
n o s l i W ë o Z t s i t r A ë n Sto X y ë l d ë m S n h Jo View our collections at: 55 Jermyn Street, London, SW1Y 6LX | 24 New Cavendish Street, London, W1G 8TX | 24 Brook Street, London, W1K 5DG | johnsmedley.com
no.
24 Paynter Jacket Co. One Thing Done Well
In an industry literally burning up in its own forward momentum, Paynter’s first run of limited edition chore coats sets out to slow things down words by Will HALBERT
A
s far as gauntlet-throws go, Paynter Jacket’s is a doozy: Take an iconic jacket, study it, deconstruct it, and learn from it. Take what you’ve learned and proceed to make the last version of that jacket that you will ever realistically need. Make the jacket on a small-batch basis, no less. And make it using only the best materials you can find, while you’re at it. And do all of this not as an established brand, but as a young couple just three months into a budding relationship. You know, just for good measure. It’s a simple premise, perhaps. Straightforward in initial concept but no doubt taxing in execution. Which leaves me wondering just how Paynter’s co-founders, Huw and Becky, make it all look so fun. Perhaps the answer lies in the couple’s natural chemistry, or maybe it's down to their shared passion for, and interest in, the garments they’re creating. Their first run of jackets is a glowing testament to this chemistry and passion. Aptly labelled Batch No.1, this limited edition, cut-to-order jacket offers a fond callback to the classic French chore coats of yesteryear. Unlike those boxy, baggy, vintage store grail pieces (all invariably short of arm and wide of shoulder) the Paynter Jacket offers a fresh, tailored take on the classic; one that’s soft, substantial and made in short runs of just 300 pieces, three times a year. This is a conscious choice: ‘If we suddenly increased our numbers,’ explains Becky, ‘we’d be putting more pressure on our fabric mills who make our fabric bespoke, on our factory in Portugal, and on the wash house that garment-dyes our jackets.’ As such, the Paynter Jacket isn’t just a damn good example of what can be done with a more conscientious, more iterative approach to making, it’s also the physical, tactile culmination of the couple’s journey to find like-minded makers. The reverse bull denim - a hard-wearing but breathable fabric that’s responsible for the jacket’s ‘hard as nails, soft AF’ credentials - hails from Berto, Italy. It’s corozo buttons, hand-crafted here in the UK, are sourced from nuts grown in the rainforests of Ecuador. The one-off, limited edition label - tucked away inside the jacket - is the work of Massachusetts-based illustrator, Chris Delorenzo. And to top it off, the jackets themselves are put together, by hand, in a mountainside factory in the renowned maker town of Guimarães, Portugal. In short, the first run of Paynter Jackets is as well-made as it is well-travelled. We’ll spare you the usual chichés, however: This is not an icon rediscovered or a classic redefined. This is a classic understood - stitch for stitch and cut for cut - from the ground up. ‘We’re detail and quality obsessed,’ says Becky, ‘we’d rather grow slowly and keep getting the product right.’ And that’s exactly what they’ve done. At the time of writing this, all 300 of the jackets that make up Batch No. 1 are now in the hands of their lucky owners (after having sold out in just 14 minutes). With Batch No. 2 scheduled for an October release, those looking to get in on the action would do well to sign up to their newsletter. As with the first run, Batch No. 2 promises to offer an all-new take on the chore coat, using different fabrics and featuring all-new label art from an as yet undisclosed illustrator. With an increasingly faceless fashion industry seemingly hell-bent on a race towards its own collapse, the couple behind Paynter’s small-batch, slow-step approach to things are offering a welcomed return to making clothes personal again. EJ Paynterjacket.com | @Paynterjacket 12
The Essential Journal | Issue 48
Issue 48 | The Essential Journal
13
ESSENTIAL JOURNAL X JOHN SMEDLEY me as inspirational craftsmen. The first is John Neilson, who is a master letter-cutter. John lives in an idyllic little cottage on the side of a Welsh mountain, only accessible through the farm at the bottom of the valley. I say this because meeting John was definitely a serendipitous moment. John was not just ‘a chap in the next valley who carves headstone, I think’ which was how he was first described to me, but in fact a master of his craft. He opened my eyes to how beautiful a well-drawn line could be. It was through my apprenticeship with John that I learnt about the historic stone carving course at City and Guilds of London Art School, where I met my second inspirational craftsman, Nina Bilbey. Nina is such a talented carver, and thankfully an excellent teacher too. Learning from her was definitely inspiring, not only due to her wealth of knowledge and talent, but also due to the fact that, despite working with stone for 6 years, she was the first female carver I had met. Did anything in particular inspire you to start your craft? No, not specifically, I have just always said yes to opportunities which arise, and with an inquisitive mind, I’ve had to find out more about the elements which really interest me. What is the hardest part about what you do? Now I have learnt and developed the practical skills, I find being self-employed can be difficult. I miss not having colleagues. Working by myself for the majority of the time can be lonely and requires good self motivation. However, I love being in charge of my own time and also knowing that my achievements rest solely on my shoulders What makes your craftsmanship most rewarding? Producing a piece that I’m really proud of technically and aesthetically, and someone else also enjoying it so much that they buy it.
How would you describe your craft? I am a stone carver and sculptor.
passion for art and craft has always been present.
Zoe Wilson
What is your favourite part about what you do? The process of creating a piece starts with generating an idea, turning the idea into a design, and then carving the design into stone. I very much enjoy that the process is made up of different elements, but the final stage of carving into stone - just using a mallet and chisel - is still my favourite
How long have you been at your craft? My first job in the stone industry was 11 years ago, when I worked for a company which specialised in granite work surfaces. My job was in the workshop, cutting and polishing large pieces of granite along with limestone flooring tiles. It was at this point I discovered I really liked the workshop environment (not to mention driving a forklift truck) and had my first taste of skilled craftsmanship.
Our deep dive into the world of craft continues this month with stone artist, QEST scholar and John Smedley ambassador, Zoe Wilson words by Will HALBERT 14
How did you begin your career? I don’t think there was a specific beginning moment to my career. I didn’t set out to be a stone carver or even know what one was. Looking back, it evolved in a very serendipitous way. I started working with stone 11 years ago, but my
What other craftsmen stand out to you most and why? Amongst the teachers I have had throughout my career, there are two in particular who really stand out to
What has been the most important learning curve for you? The three year diploma at City and Guilds of London Art school was the most intensive skills development by far. But maybe the most important learning curve came ten years earlier during my degree in fine art, when I learnt how to be self-motivated. Have you had any major pitfalls to overcome to maintain your craft? Financially embarking on the three-year diploma involving moving to London was the biggest risk. Although I had been saving hard, The Essential Journal | Issue 48
Image credit: Asia Werbel
Meet the Makers
Where did you learn the skills required for your role? I feel with all craft, you are constantly learning or honing your skills, making every craftsman unique. Over many years, I have accumulated a broad range of skills, all of which make up a unique dexterity for my craft. From a foundation course in art, a degree in fine art painting, work-based learning with the granite company, a work apprenticeship in stone masonry, followed by another in letter carving, running my own business as a mason and finally a diploma in historic stone carving.
ESSENTIAL JOURNAL X JOHN SMEDLEY
A Question of Craft and Form
We’ll be helping John Smedley celebrate its 235th birthday with a year-long look at its dedication to superior craftsmanship in all of its wild and wonderful forms. johnsmedley.com
John Smedley x Zoe Wilson and Alice Walton: In Conversation at London Craft Week 2019 words by Will HALBERT
J
ohn Smedley continues on its mission to tell stories of like-minded, British craftsmen and women in a year-long celebration of the brand’s 235th anniversary. Set to the backdrop of this year’s London Craft Week, John Smedley invited stone artist Zoe Wilson and ceramic artist Alice Walton - both QEST scholars and John Smedley ambassadors – to a panel discussion on the subject of craft and form. Joined by Managing Director (and eighth-generation Smedley family member) Ian Maclean, the panel focused on the transformation of raw material into art forms. The conversation provided invaluable insight into how both Zoe and Alice go about selecting the finest materials before transforming them into unique creations. It was clear that both Zoe and Alice’s approach to their respective crafts struck a real chord with the 235-year-old John Smedley brand. And how could it not? For just shy of two and a half centuries, John Smedley’s attention to detail and its dedication to craft has earned it a reputation for crafting only the finest knitwear, made right here in Britain. By all accounts, the evening proved to be a glowing testament to John Smedley’s passion for craft, its commitment to quality, and its steadfast belief in the importance of supporting its fellow artists and artisans. EJ
I still made the move and started the course without the money to complete it. I knew the course was pivotal to my career, and the only course of its kind, so I decided to take a leap of faith. This certainly meant that I valued every single day and really squeezed every drop of knowledge out of the tutors. I also spent the little free time I had applying for any bits of funding available. Thankfully, I was successful with receiving a number of grants, the most significant being in my second year when I became a QEST scholar, and received funding to see me through to the end of the course. Has your craft evolved into other, newer skills over time? Yes, I started out just knowing how to cut and polish granite. Now? Now I can carve gargoyles, model heads and carve pottery. Issue 48 | The Essential Journal
How would you describe a day in your craft? Everyday varies, which is something I particularly value. Sometimes I am at the computer coming up with ideas, developing designs, updating social media or my website etc. Other days, I may be in the workshop carving an existing piece, or sanding down a finished piece and adding the fixings. Or I might be out; visiting a quarry to buy stone, visiting a client for a commission or a gallery for inspiration. If I’m carving, I really like a whole day uninterrupted to get really stuck into it. Whereas the other elements I tend to mix up so I have a morning out and an afternoon in. What are the biggest challenges you face in what you do? I think earning a reasonable wage so I can carry on doing what I love is
probably the biggest challenge. I’ve spent a long time training to get to where I am today, but unfortunately, it’s still hard to make your way as a craftsman.
How would your customers describe your craft? Hopefully a crossover between art and craft which is bespoke and beautiful.
How have you stayed passionate and inspired by your craft? I find adding to my skills helps to keep me inspired and excited by what I do. I think the passion for creating is a very deeply-rooted part of me and carving is my outlet for that.
Are there any accomplishment that you are particularly proud of? There are a number of accomplishments that I’m really proud of, but two stick out in particular. Whilst at college, one of the competitions I won was to design a new gargoyles for St George’s Chapel at Windsor castle. I then produced a scale model of my design and went on to carve it ready for installation. Then, In 2017, I carved a piece for His Majesty the Sultan of Brunei. I was even more delighted to be able to present the piece to him and talk about the carving.
Do you have any plans to expand on what it is that you do? Definitely. For the moment I just need to concentrate on getting my work known and building a reputation. In the longer term I would love to be able to employ someone, or even a couple of people. Taking on an apprentice would also be something I would like very much to do. I would love to share my skills and knowledge with someone starting out, the way so many people kindly did with me. What are the main projects you are working on now? I have a modelling project of a baby’s portrait I’m currently working on. At the moment, I’m in the initial stages of the clay design, and will cast it in plaster once finished. I also have a sketchbook bursting with ideas for the next surface pattern piece, so I’m playing around with designs on the computer before ordering a suitable size piece of stone. I think the next one will be in Portland limestone, which is my favourite British stone, and not one I’ve been able to use for a while.
How would you describe your approach to your craft in 3 words? Innovative, contemporary, distinctive. How has working with QEST helped you on your path? QEST have been a huge support to me. Initially, it was financially; their funding allowed me to finish training at the Art School. Since then, so many opportunities have arisen through being one of their scholars. I try and say yes to as many opportunities as possible, such as speaking on their behalf at the Royal Warrant Holders AGM in St. James’s Palace and demonstrating (and then donating) a piece at their annual charity event at the V&A Museum. The staff are always really helpful and keen to promote my business wherever
possible, which is just a really lovely support to have. How would you describe John Smedley? A traditional British manufacturing company specialising in high quality, fine knitwear. Evolving to stay contemporary whilst maintaining a high level of craftsmanship and staying true to their brand and reputation. Do you have a favourite John Smedley piece, if so what? It’s really hard to choose just one piece! With a slight allergy to wool, it’s the cotton range that always captures my interest, elegant yet simple. Pieces like the Paddington Jumper, and the Ana and Bryony tops are all wonderful. But I guess if I had to choose one, it would be the Burdine Dress in either navy or the botanical blush. What are you most excited about for the future? I’m really excited about getting my current collection of work into an exhibition and seeing how it’s received. I’ve been developing it for the last two years, so I’m a little nervous about seeing whether it sparks interest. However, I love the pieces and feel I’ve really developed my own unique style.
Find out more at johnsmedley.com/discover/legacy 15
www.chestudios.co.uk 16
The Essential Journal | Issue 48
OLIVER SPENCER X ESSENTIAL JOURNAL
California Dreamin’ What’s summer without a little road trip? Fine British tailoring meets West Coast style and ease in Oliver Spencer’s latest Palm Springs-inspired summer capsule offering words by Will HALBERT
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here’s no love letter to the summer months quite as eloquent nor as heartfelt as the resort city of Palm Springs. Once a playground for the Hollywood elite of the early 20th century, this southern Californian oasis is now home to some of the most stark and striking vistas and architectural achievements that the West Coast has to offer. Known for its mid-century, ‘desert modernist’ architecture - from the critically-acclaimed houses of John Lautner and Richard Neutra to the tramways and municipal landmarks of Albert Frey - it’s little wonder that Palm Springs should provide the inspiration for Oliver Spencer’s latest capsule collection. Palm Springs is, after all, a living celebration of unerring style and artistic grace. Which goes a long way to explaining why Oliver Spencer, together with acclaimed stylist, William Gilchrist and visual artist, Wanda Orme took a trip to the desert town to capture some key highlights from the Oliver Spencer Spring/Summer ‘19 collection. The Palm Springs capsule collection offers a laid-back, hazy, Southern California style with an exacting Britsh twist. The classic american trucker jacket, for instance (a stone cold classic that’s dead set to make a comeback once Tarantino’s ninth cinematic escapade hits screens this month), finds a stripped-back and summer-friendly varitent in Oliver Spencer’s Havana Jacket. Relaxed in its fit and bold in its geometric, textured Portuguese cotton, the Havana Jacket presents an unlined (not to mention uncompromising cool), British spin on an all-American mainstay. Likewise the Oliver Spencer fishtail trousers - a firm and justifiably-recurring favorite in the brand’s seasonal lineups - makes a welcome return. This time in an Italian linen/cotton ‘Beckford’ cloth blend that delivers the same tailored charm you’ve come to expect from the cut, but with a light and breezy touch of summer sartorialism for the warmer months. A hazel iteration of the brand’s signature suede Brothel Creepers - a bona fide British, Teddy Boy staple - finds itself effortlessly transposed from the cobbles of Lamb’s Conduit Street to the sun-kissed deserts of the Riverside County. Further flourishes such as the Japansese-made, hand-polished Conrad Sunglasses offer up a further classic in the making. Clear Italian acetate and a contrasting, gunmetal nose plate provide an understated finish to an already showstopping ensemble. For all the homegrown charm of Oliver Spencer’s London roots, the Palm Springs capsule offers a considered and carefully-curated capsule that allows the brand to flex its more worldly, transportative qualities. EJ
'The Palm Springs capsule collection offers a laid-back, hazy, Southern California style with an exacting Britsh twist.'
Discover the collection at oliverspencer.co.uk Issue 48 | The Essential Journal
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www.tessuti.co.uk
COVER STORY
Freedom is ...a Full Tank With an effortless blend of rugged utilitarianism and heritage nostalgia, the Indian Scout Bobber offers attitude and authenticity in equal measure. Sam Webb puts the all-American icon through its paces in the Great Britsh countryside words by Will HALBERT photography by Colin DACK
Issue 48 | The Essential Journal
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COVER STORY
‘D
id you know Burt Munro was riding Indian when he set a new land speed record at the Bonneville Salt Flats back in ‘67?’ Sam’s anecdote is dispensed as he tugs on the oversized, glove-friendly ring-pull of his Barbour’s zip. ‘It’s true,’ he adds, now yanking on the chin strap of his helmet. ‘Burt was 68 years old, and hit 184.087 mph on a custom, 1920 Indian Scout. That’s quite a legacy to be sitting on.’ As far as ice-breakers go, Sam’s is right on theme. After all, the Bonneville Salt Flats have long since been the proving ground for piston heads, speed freaks and motorcycle manufacturers alike. They are at once a rite of passage and a point of reference. They stand as both the measure of a man’s mettle and as a marker of just how far he’s come. The same could also be said for the bikes that graced the flats, and with almost a century of history at its exhaust pipes, it’s safe to say that Indian Motorcycle - long-lauded as America’s oldest bike manufacturing company - has come a long way. Since its inception in 1901, Indian’s sole concern has been forging premium, homegrown, American bikes built to outlast trends and go the distance. They’ve made a fair few friends along the way too, and Sam Webb is happy to count himself as one of them. International model and well-documented fan of all things timeless, tenacious, and two-wheeled, Sam’s love affair with motorcycles is longstanding: ‘I’ve never really been a car guy. I’ve always preferred bikes,’ says Sam. ‘There’s a demand for mastery and an invitation for adventure that just seems to come with the territory when dealing with a motorcycle.’ Sam should know. Setting aside his metaphorical journey from young, Birmingham-based pugilist to the face of fashion houses like Dolce & Gabbana, Diesel, Cavali, and Versace, it also turns out that Sam is quite the intrepid adventurer. Back in 2017, Sam embarked on a 700 km biking expedition to the now-demilitarised Upper Mustang, Nepal. The gruelling, six-day climb from the foothills of the Annapurnas to the 4000m-point of Muktinath was punctuated with high altitudes and deep gorges, heavy snowfall and landslides. ‘We did it in the name of the Gurkha Welfare Trust,’ recalls Sam. ‘The Gurkha are fearless, loyal fighters that have helped Great Britain throughout its military history, yet they often return home to significant hardship. The GWT looks to ease that burden where it can. It was a great cause to get behind, and it also made for one hell of an adventure.’ Sam tells us this while he’s perched atop his Indian Scout Bobber, aptly and affectionately named Betty. Stripped-down, blacked-out, and low-slung, Betty cuts a lean, mean figure, hinting at an attitude and an aggression that offsets Sam’s calm and collected demeanor. Easy on the eyes but ostensibly built with the ride in mind, the Bobber is, at once an all-American celebration of two-wheeled freedom, a striking visual metaphor of Indian’s rich heritage, and the perfect podium upon which Sam can extol the virtues of his favourite past time. For those in need of a brief history lesson, bobbers of the forties and fifties were cut-down, tuned-up choppers seemingly purpose-built for hell-for-leather endeavours. Barebones by choice, these custom bikes - or ‘bob jobs’ - were stripped of excess weight
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"There’s a demand for mastery and an invitation for adventure that just seems to come with the territory when dealing with a motorcycle."
The Essential Journal | Issue 48
COVER STORY
The Bike
The Intersection of Heritage and Innovation The Bobber nods to the golden era of riding whilst also bringing a classic up to speed The Indian Scout Bobber’s aesthetic is stripped back and classic to the core, but the engine? The engine is anything but. The Liquid-cooled, 69-cubic-inch, 94-horsepower, fuel-injected, V-Twin engine offers lighting quick acceleration and passing power aplenty. The smooth, 6-speed transmission allows for sporty, aggressive riding for added class and confidence. indianmotorcycle.co.uk
Issue 48 | The Essential Journal
and resistance to give post-war thrill-seekers an inventive, two-wheeled way to dance with danger. The Indian Scout Bobber pays homage to that same style and spirit, but does so with modern sensibilities in mind. ‘The Scout Bobber has got this incredibly classic vibe to it,’ Sam explains, grinning at the bike with obvious enthusiasm. ‘But the engine is state-of-the-art and smooth as anything’. Sam’s not wrong. The liquid-cooled, fuel-injected, V-Twin engine offers up a healthy display of bark and bite as Sam fires it up. ‘That’s the appeal of the Scout Bobber as far as I’m concerned,’ Sam continues. ‘Those with a little riding savvy will quickly hear that there’s plenty under the proverbial hood to get excited about, while less seasoned riders just looking to turn a few heads will also find their stride.’ Bottom line? The Scout Bobber is a crowd pleaser with its finger held firmly on the heritage pulse. It will tear it up on a country road should occasion call for it, but it’s just as suited to lower-key Sunday scoots through Shoreditch. It’s in large part down to Sam’s desire to prove the former that we find ourselves in the heathlands of New Forest, putting pedal to metal and pen to paper. ‘The Scout Bobber is the Swiss Army knife of motorbikes, when you think about it,’ jokes Sam over the roar of the Indian’s engine. ‘Where better to demonstrate that than New Forest? Nothing says versatility quite like a ride through the British countryside in an all-American Bobber. It’s a beautiful juxtaposition, really.’ To Sam’s credit, the brawn of the bike and the beauty of the British countryside make for a pretty spectacular pairing, and provide a compelling argument, as if further argument were needed, for the Bobber’s classic looks and contemporary versatility. ‘There’s a balance here: it’s beautifully authentic but it’s welcoming to less hardcore riders, too. That goes for the bike’s looks as much as it does for its performance.’ With a knack for tapping into that indelible link between speed, freedom, and the open road, however, the Indian Scout Bobber boasts more than just good looks and breakneck speeds, it offers a chance for real reflection. ‘Riding gives you a moment of pause to consider how far you’ve come and where you’re going next,’ says Sam. ‘There’s nothing quite like it’. When asked what lies ahead for him, Sam’s answer is surprisingly introspective: ‘I grew up boxing, so I've always wanted to open up a gym. Nothing fancy, just a community gym, with all the support and purpose that those sorts of gyms always seem to provide.’ Sam brings the engine from a roar to a purr to a stop. ‘Growing up, the local community gyms were always a place of values, discipline and direction for those who were lost on their own journeys. I’d love to use my platform to provide a little of that direction to people who might need it.’ Like the Bonneville Salt Flats of Utah and the rest of history’s myriad proving grounds, moments like these also provide a measure of man’s progress in the grand scheme of things. The journey is a wonderful thing, no doubt. But it pays to remember your roots. Both Sam’s future plans and Indian’s fond callback to the bikes of yesteryear are fine testaments to the importance of the personal journey, and suggest that returning to where you started is hardly the same as never leaving. EJ
"Riding gives you a moment of pause to consider how far you’ve come and where you’re going next, there’s nothing quite like it."
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ESSENTIAL JOURNAL X TESSUTI
Stand Out Destinations: Barcelona Thing heating up? Don’t sweat it. Tessuti’s summer lineup is a masterclass in beating the heat in true, streetwear-forward style and ease words by Will HALBERT
F
rom the gothic mystique of the Sagrada Familia to the energy and elan of La Rambla, Barcelona is all about that stand out mentality. A vibrantly off-kilter trip of a city, it should come as little surprise that the Catalan capital was the creative catalyst behind some of the world’s most famous artists and architects. From Gaudi to Picasso, Barcelona has long since been the arbiter of a larger-than-life, louder-than-words attitude; a go-big-or-go-home mentality that seems to have woven itself into the city’s very DNA. Bottom line? The Catalan capital provided the perfect stomping ground for Tessuti’s latest summer lines. It’s no secret that you have to bring your A game if you’re looking to stand out in a city like Barcelona. And that’s exactly what Tessuti have done this year. No strangers to the heat, Tessuti have curated a summer lineup guaranteed to help you keep your cool as the temperature rises. Proving that stripping down needn’t mean holding back, the ever-brazen, beach-ready, contrast-striped sweatshirt and shorts combos from Billionaire Boys Club demonstrate exactly why the brand remains such a firm favourite at Tessuti. Likewise, CP Company expertly navigate the fine line between simple and statement with a crimson tee shirt and slacks two-piece. Bold, bright colours and comfortable cotton fits bring a touch of tailored class to your summer streetwear. Ever the fan of the curveball, Stone Island have opted to surprise fans with a summer parka. Featuring a garment dyed, 3-layer performance nylon, the coat remains breathable despite its water resistance. Perfect protection from the ever-changing summer season. Add to this list the latest and greatest from Love Moschino, Versace, Vivienne Westwood and Ralph Lauren, and it’s easy to see that Tessuti aren’t playing around. Barcelona provided the perfect backdrop for Tessuit’s summer line up, boasting a host of statement pieces that’ll happily go toe-to-toe with the best of Gaudi’s monuments and turn just as many heads as the sagrada familia. It’s clear to see that Tessuti have well and truly set the standard for standing out this summer. And despite the rising temperatures, they’ve done so without so much as breaking a sweat. EJ
'Proving that stripping down needn't mean holding back, the everbrazen, beach-ready, contrast-striped sweatshirt and shorts combos from Billionaire Boys Club demonstrate exactly why the brand remains such a firm favourite at Tessuti.'
Issue 48 | The Essential Journal
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STYLE
A Cut Above
Tailored Thoughts On
Invisible Accessories to Make You Look Great Need to get ahead of your suited-and-booted buddies? Matthew Gonzales offers up his top tips to looking your best and keeping your sartorial edge all day long words by Matthew GONZALEZ
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Is a barbershop simply a barbershop wherever you go? Ian Harold talks us through his love affair with travel, the perspective it provides, and the people watching it demands words by Ian HARROLD
hether you work in an industry that requires a suit, or if you just prefer it to something like streetwear, you know that wearing a well-cut suit can make a lasting impression on the people you meet. The problem is, bespoke suits are not necessarily affordable for everyone, but there are things you can do to enhance your suit, regardless of whether it came from the high street or it was handmade on Savile Row. These tips will guarantee you will always look your best. One of the basic things you can do to instantly sharpen up your suit is invest in a pair of braces or suspenders. If you don’t know the difference, braces button into your trousers, whereas suspenders clip on to them. Using either will ensure your trousers don’t slip down off your waist throughout the day, meaning you won't be constantly pulling them up, nor will they ever look long and baggy. Also as a consequence, you can have a little extra room in the waist meaning you won’t ever feel uncomfortable after a big lunch or a few after-work pints, which is always a plus. A good pair of braces will cost you anywhere from £40 to £75, but suspenders will only set you back around £10 to £15 so trying them out won’t cost you a fortune. Being a tailor, I often focus in on how a suit is cut, but your shirt is just as important to looking your best and there are a few accessories for shirts that are well worth investing in. One of the most affordable bits you can buy is a pair of collar stays. Any decent quality shirt will have a small channel sewn into the underside of the collar. Most will come with a plastic set already inserted, but they will get lost or distorted the first time you forget to take them out when laundering. Without them, your collar will collapse in on itself. It might not be the worst thing in the world, but a shirt with stays just looks so much nicer than one without. A basic brass pair will only cost a few quid from any shirt maker, but if you want something special you can find ones made out of mother of pearl or even sterling silver. Sleeve length can often be a problem when it comes to wearing a suit. There is something very sloppy looking when you see too much of your shirt hanging down from the cuff of your jacket. If this is the case for you, first make sure your jacket sleeves aren’t too short, then go out and buy a pair of sleeve armbands. They essentially do the same job as braces but for your shirt. They can come in a variety of materials, but if you want to be as discreet as possible about it, go for a simple metal pair. You will be able to find them at most menswear departments and should run you between £5 and £30. The last bit of kit you should try out is a bit unusual but by far a personal favourite. If you have ever in your life had to tuck a shirt into your trousers you will know, that as soon as you move it is coming undone. That is where a pair of ‘shirt stays’ come into play. If you haven’t heard of them before it is probably because they are not mainstream as they really ought to be. The only way to describe them is to imagine an elastic trident that connects from your socks to the front side and back of your shirt on each leg. They will keep your shirt perfectly tucked in to your trousers throughout the day, but they do take some getting used to. A perpetually tucked in shirt may sound insignificant, but wearing a suit as we already said is about making an impression. A disheveled-looking shirt can undercut the effort you put into the rest of your look. Shirt stays are pretty hard to find these days, but you can find them online from a company called Sharp and Dapper and will set you back about £25. If you can get used to wearing them you will notice at the end of your work day that while all your other colleagues look a bit run down you will look as sharp as you did first thing that morning. Everything that we discussed in this article has been designed specifically to make you look your absolute best when wearing a suit. Some of them will seem like no-brainers while others might seem a bit strange. All I can do is tell you that I use each of these things every day and can't recommend them enough. So do some more research, experiment, and see what you think. MG
'A perpetually tucked in shirt may sound insignificant, but wearing a suit as we already said is about making an impression. A disheveled-looking shirt can undercut the effort you put into the rest of your look.'
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bloody love airports. I can’t tell you why, exactly. There’s just something about them. They have a sort of microcosmic charm to them, I guess: They’re small, self-contained worlds unto themselves, entire universes all under one roof. I know a lot of people tend to find airports quite stressful. Not me. There’s something to be said for the soothing notion of being led along a particular path. You’re no longer in control, you’re just along for the ride. The only thing that’s left to do is go with the flow. That, and people watch, of course. I’m not entirely sure what that says about me, but there you go. I’m not really looking to wax philosophical on the human condition and it’s need for direction or its inherent, implicit fear of stasis. I guess all I’m really saying is that I bloody love airports. Which is just as well, because I happen to have visited a lot of them. I’m lucky in the sense that my work tends to keep me on my toes in terms of travel. From product launches, to demos, to symposiums, barbering has taken me far and wide over the years. From the sun-kissed beaches of Miami to the frost-bitten back streets of Moscow (not nearly as sinister as it sounds, but all the same: don’t ask). It’s a privilege, no doubt. Aside from the sights, sounds and sensations of somewhere new, travelling has given me the great fortune of witnessing first hand the myriad different ways in which people interpret the same thing. The humble barber shop is as good of an example as any in that respect. Many would say that a barbershop is a barbershop wherever you go, but they’d be dead wrong by my reckoning. The truth is that the humble barber shop enters into the cultural lexicon very differently depending on where that barbershop happens to be. From New York to Istanbul, the barber’s societal role can vary dramatically depending on the cultures that orbit it, as can a barber’s skill sets, style and expertise. From cultural hubs to LGBTQ safe spaces, from places of counsel and life advice, to self-confessed sanctuaries for ‘scumbags and scoundrels’, the barbershop dons many a mask across the globe. And long may it continue to do so. They say variety is the spice of life, after all, and while I hate to lean on a cliché I’d say I’m inclined to agree. The opportunity to broaden your horizons is far and away one of the greatest, most appealing features of travel, and certainly one of the reasons why I feel so fortunate to be doing what I’m doing on a day-to-day basis. That, and the airports. I bloody love airports. IH
Follow Ian on Instagram @Ianharrold1
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The Essential Journal | Issue 48
ESSENTIAL JOURNAL X BEN SHERMAN
Under the Style Spotlight Relaunching for AW19, Ben Sherman’s The Series unveils the very best in established and up-and-coming talent
We’re working closely with Ben Sherman to celebrate one of Britain’s most iconic brands bensherman.co.uk
something I’ve always done. I started out playing rugby, but ended up stopping because I found I had much more of a love for boxing. I think what spurred me on was my will to get better and better, and to win. Two years after starting, I was fighting for England and then took gold in my first tournament for England. I’ve gone on to win gold in tournaments all over the world, including the Olympics, and now I’m currently the most successful British amateur boxer in history!
words by Elliot RAMSEY
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ff the back of the initiative’s successful spring launch, Ben Sherman’s latest edition of The Series showcases three creative individuals, highlighting their inspiring stories and exploring the impact that the brand’s heritage has had on their own style. From diverse backgrounds and with vastly different careers, we caught up with each of them to talk humble beginnings, Ben Sherman and iconic British menswear. EJ
Who is your greatest influence? The one person I looked up to growing up was my mum. Seeing her struggle to give us dinner money for school, but then going out to be the breadwinner for the family while my dad wasn’t well. Everyone relied on my mum and her wage, but we still never wanted for anything. Tell us about your Olympic experience - what was it like to stand on top of the podium holding a gold medal? It was a crazy experience, but I had always said that I was going there to win gold. A lot of athletes are there to take it in and enjoy the moment, but for me, I had a job to do. I cared about winning a gold medal. It was a moment I’d dreamt of for most of my life. I find it hard to explain how I felt in the moment, standing there. I think it was probably the first time in my life that I’ve cried from happiness - it was very emotional.
ROGER FRAMPTON Movement coach (@rogerframpton) Tell us about your path to becoming a movement coach – where did your journey into the world of fitness begin? When I was scouted to model, all I’d done previously was gym and weights work. But this didn’t work for the catwalks because sizes back then in the modelling industry were stricter. This got me into experimenting with a bodyweight style of training, which eventually led to a career as a movement coach. It’s all about studying the evolution of movement. Your TED talk was a huge moment in your career – what can you tell us about it? My TED talk was a challenge from the founder of London Real, Brian Rose. He loved the message I was spreading and so I did it. I hoped it would open people’s eyes to the fact that we’re all born flexible and mobile, and are great movers as kids. With consistency, patience and focus on how our bodies move, we can get our natural movement back. What tips would you give to young people wanting to get into fitness? In all honesty? Don’t get into fitness. Movement is where you should be looking. Movement is something that each and every one of us is born with. You’ve just got to find, within you, that innate urge to move your body freely again. In other words, it’s not about what you look like, but what you can do. Issue 48 | The Essential Journal
How did you get into modelling? I was scouted in a bar in London by the photographer Simon Harris from Select Models. I then decided to quit my career in carpentry to pursue modelling full-time. How would you characterise your style? My style is all about having the freedom to move. I always wear footwear that allows me to feel the ground and clothing that doesn’t restrict me. Can my body move freely? Can I sit in a squat? Can I reach my arms over my head? If I can’t, I don’t wear it. In terms of colours, dark on the bottom means light on top, and vice versa. I’m not sure where I learnt that, but it’s a simple rule for not allowing yourself to camouflage into the background. What does Ben Sherman mean to you? I was aware of Ben Sherman even before my modelling career and the first item I had was the classic checked shirt. Ben Sherman makes me think of British lads. In fact, I modelled one of their jackets several years back. It’s inspiring to now work with a brand that has such a rich history.
LUKE CAMPBELL Boxer (@luke11campbell) Tell us about your journey into the world of boxing Why boxing? I don’t really know the answer to that one. It’s just
In 2014, you established the Luke Campbell Foundation - what are your aims for this initiative? I established the foundation after I competed in the Olympics, after I’d seen how young kids had reacted to me. I was an inspiration to them, so I wanted to use that platform I’d gained to give something back to them. To instill confidence and encouragement in the younger generation. I wanted to go on to achieve something in life. When you aren’t dressed for the gym, what is your personal style like? As you can imagine, I’m in training gear for six days of the week. It’s only the odd day here and there that I get to wear something else. But I’m not a big fan of big brand logos. I like something small, understated plain white or black, usually. I like looking fresh and cool.
What does Ben Sherman mean to you? When I was younger, I won an award in my hometown for my sporting achievements. It was my first award event, and I remember going out with my mum to buy a new Ben Sherman shirt to wear to it. I’ll never forget that. In my younger days, you had on a nice pair of jeans, a Ben Sherman shirt, and you were looking the part! For most of my childhood, I was probably wearing Ben Sherman shirts to my school discos. I looked pretty cool.
CHRIS REID Model & Photographer (@chris_reid) How did you get into photography? I initially got into photography while working in the camera section of a retail store. I developed a genuine curiosity about cameras and a burning desire to take photos which led me to purchase a Canon 650D with a 50mm 1.8 lens. When I got signed as a model in 2015, it pretty much took over my life, so photography took a back seat. But as I’ve developed more of a routine with modelling, I’ve started shooting again. A major milestone for me was my first professional shoot as a photographer. It was an online editorial for Hunger magazine and the shoot was just me and the model. The vision was all hers and it was great because I’m passionate about giving models more of a voice on the creative aspect of the shoot. I was super grateful for the chance to be on the other side of the lens and, at the same time, to allow a model to express their creativity. How relevant is film photography today and what does it give us that
digital can’t match? I love film photography because I think it captures energy in a way that digital can’t. I really enjoy not having the images instantly displayed. It keeps me and the subject totally present, and I like the sense of mystery about how an image will turn out. The shots become more valuable, as does the time you spend shooting a reel. What cameras are you using at the moment? I’m currently using a Canon AE-1 that I bought for £50 off Gumtree a couple of years ago, as well as a Canon EOS 650 I got on eBay for £11 and a Canon Zoom XL I found in a charity shop. I think that was £15. I get my film processed at Snappy Snaps and I scan my images myself. How did you get into modelling? I started modelling in 2013 in my hometown of Wolverhampton. I was just modelling for friends’ brands but there wasn’t much of a fashion buzz in the Midlands at the time and very few modelling agencies. So I started networking online, and going to London occasionally, and I ended up talking to Paul Cavalier, the director of Nevs Model Agency. After a few months of speaking, they signed me. They advised me to move to London as it would allow me a better flow of work, so I moved down in 2016. I also recently signed to J’adore Models in Manchester. How would you describe your style and what are some key pieces that you can’t live without? To be honest, my style is pretty much whatever I feel like wearing at the time. But a pair of black tracksuit bottoms, a black t-shirt, a tactical vest jacket and a pair of shades are my essentials. What does Ben Sherman mean to you? For me, Ben Sherman is a classic British brand. It’s got such a rich heritage in the British fashion scene and one that resonates with so many people of all backgrounds. My favourite piece would probably be the sand corduroy jacket. I wear a lot of clothes with similar colour tones, so it fits my style perfectly.
Head to bensherman.co.uk to shop The Series Icons 25
STYLE
Celebrating Time-honoured Tradition As David M Robinson celebrates the launch of its refurbished Manchester showroom, we explore the retailer’s exclusive range, charting the history of the divers’ watch words by Elliot RAMSEY
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ew accessories make a sartorial statement in quite the same fashion as the luxury watch. Simple yet elegant, the classic timepiece has long been considered a marker of taste and the choice of the discerning customer. But while its modern reputation positions it as a must-have for the style-conscious, its history is equally intertwined with narratives of travel and adventures to uncharted territories. After the introduction of the wristwatch in the 19th century, the divers’ watch soon followed. A feat of innovation which made possible some of history’s most noted underwater explorations, it first entered commercial production during the 20th century, although efforts towards its invention had been made in the 1800s. At a time when hard-hat divers were placing pocket-watches on the inside of their helmets to keep track of their time spent underwater, the creation of the divers’ watch marked a revolutionary step in watchmaking history. The first of its kind was produced in 1926 by Rolex and was aptly named the Oyster. With its hermetically-sealed case, it provided optimal protection for the watch’s mechanisms and signalled a major industrial shift, setting a new benchmark in methods of production. In 1927, when the English swimmer Mercedes Gleitze crossed the English Channel wearing a Rolex Oyster, it solidified the brand’s reputation as a pioneering force in contemporary watchmaking, and served as a catalyst for other luxury brands to follow suit in the development and commercial sale of waterproof timepieces. Now widely produced by a range of Swiss watchmakers, the divers’ watch is the embodiment of style, functionality and design excellence, representing over 100 years of history and heritage. As David M Robinson, the luxury jewellery designer and watch retailer, celebrates the launch of its newly refurbished flagship showroom in Manchester’s St Ann’s Square, we take a tour through their divers’ watch collection, showcasing some of the finest Swiss timepieces and exploring their unique histories. EJ
For more information about David M Robinson’s collection of divers’ watches or to shop their full range of products, visit davidmrobinson.co.uk
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ROLEX SUBMARINER Launched in 1953, the Rolex Submariner set the standard for divers’ watches, inheriting its stateof-the-art design from its famed predecessor, the Oyster. Waterproof to a depth of 300 metres and fitted with a 60-minute graduated and corrosion-resistant Cerachrom insert which allows divers to monitor their time underwater, the model is the measure of excellence in watchmaking. At 40mm in diameter and featuring both a sapphire crystal and satin finish, the Submariner divers’ watch epitomises the historic link between Rolex and the underwater world.
TAG HEUER AQUARACER CALIBRE 5 Encased in fine-brushed, polished steel, the Aquaracer is a descendant of the Swiss company’s range of divers’ watches produced during the early 1980s. While TAG Heuer watches were then predominantly associated with motorsports, the Heuer 2000 (as it was then known) signalled a change of direction for the watchmakers and has become an integral facet of their rich history. Now in its fourth iteration, the Aquaracer features a newly-designed, flat finish bezel and larger hour-markers for increased legibility, making it the highest specification model produced in its 37 year history.
The Essential Journal | Issue 48
STYLE
A Guided Tour David M Robinson's refurbished flagship store at St Ann's Square, Manchester
OMEGA SEAMASTER First produced in 1993, the Seamaster Professional Diver has earned itself a reputation as one of the finest timepieces, in terms of both its function and form. Having relaunched the iconic wristwatch in 2018, OMEGA have elevated the Seamaster’s precision and performance, and unveiled a new range of 14 contemporary models. Having gained a distinguished reputation as the watch of choice for sportspeople and professional divers, and with a larger 42mm diameter and increased magnetic resistance, the Seamaster has proven itself to be one of the finest and most iconic divers’ watches on the market.
Welcome to David M Robinson Manchester
DMR's largest expansion project in its 50 year history
TUDOR PELAGOS The Tudor Pelagos began its life in 1954 as the Tudor Submariner, owing to its position as the sister company of Rolex - and, over 60 years later, it has developed into a distinctive and sophisticated watch which is as practical as it is fashion-forward. With a contemporary look and feel characterised by its titanium bracelet and ceramic, black bezel, the Pelagos is waterproof to 500 metres and is equipped with a helium escape value, making it a prime choice for serious diving. One of the first models to be fitted with movements developed by Tudor, the Pelagos points to a move towards greater independence for the brand.
A space that relfects the business & its future ambitions
The stunning light installation was designed by Tom Dixon
The lounge offers space to host exclusive lunches & events
Issue 48 | The Essential Journal
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SECTION
Royal warrants
& right royal futures
SirGordonBennett.com Pur veyor of Great British Goods
Welcome
to a new destination for modern heritage brands. Brands that not only look splendid, are made well and work as intended but come with British provenance guaranteed. Discover a plethora of handcrafted products; from apothecary, grooming and accessories to homeware, kitchenware and workwear. 28
The Essential Journal | Issue 48
LIFESTYLE
A word from the experts
Joe Davies Barry’s Manchester
A PT’s guide to staying on track if there’s no Barry’s about
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irstly, if the weather is good, get outside and explore- walk, swim or head out on a bike ride. It sounds like the basics, but it keeps you active while not feeling like you’re forcing yourself to workout. If you want to feel like you are getting more of a functional workout in, I recommend to get it done early. You are on holiday afterall so set yourself up to enjoy the rest of your day. Secondly, remember the phrase ‘no gym, no problem’. If you don’t have any equipment, no sweat. Just your body is all you need. A two week holiday isn’t going to cost you months of hard work at the gym. You aren’t going to transform overnight. Give yourself a few full body bodyweight circuits to complete. Just remember the Barry’s model: Think of the movements you do with us, throw in your runs and you will have an efficient, travel friendly workout. Then enjoy your breakfast, your lunch, your dinner, your day, and your evening. It’s a holiday, so don’t stress about missing a day of training here and there. Use it as your recovery - you’ve earned it. And don’t worry: there’s no holiday indulgence that Barry’s Red Room can’t fix once you’re back! JD
A Global Community Meets a World-Class Standard Raising heart rates across the planet, Barry’s unique combination of style, science and community spirit is all the fuel you’ll ever need to run faster, lift heavier, and push harder than you ever thought possible words by Will HALBERT
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sk anyone what the most important factor in their personal fitness journey is and the answer is always sure to be the same: Consistency. Consistency, so the saying goes, is key. Now, it goes without saying that the guys and girls over at Barry’s know a thing or two about consistency. After all, for two decades Barry’s has consist - ently gone above and beyond fitness fads and trends to deliver a scientifically-superior workout to an ever-growing, global community. In doing so, Barry’s has created a global community that extends from the North West of the United Kingdom to the West Coast of the United States and far, far beyond. As a result, Barry’s fabled Red Room has become a universal calling card for fledgling bootcampers and fitness fanatics alike. It’s a world-wide beacon for those looking to push their limits, fulfil their potential, and be the very best version of themselves. Better yet? The Red Room is a surefire means of staying consistent and accountable whilst on your travels. With over 60 gyms across twelve states, nine countries and three continents, it’s safe to say that Barry’s has you covered when it comes to staying on track during your summer holidays. So whether you’re hitting new PBs in Paris, working up a sweat in Singapore, perfecting you calisthenics in California, or just looking to lock in that morning routine in not-so-sunny Manchester, Barry’s has your back. All of which goes to show that Barry’s doesn't take their tagline lightly. Their promise of ‘The Best Workout in the World’ is more than just a humble brag, it’s a proud nod to their globally-connected, consistently-motivated fitness community. EJ
'Whether you’re hitting new PBs in Paris, working up a sweat in Singapore, perfecting you calisthenics in California, or just looking to lock in that morning routine in notso-sunny Manchester,
barrysbootcamp.com Issue 48 | The Essential Journal
Barry’s has your back.' 29
I S I N H E R I TA N C E TA X P O S I N G A T H R E AT T O YOU R E S TAT E ? While most people are aware of Inheritance Tax, many continue to ignore the issue and overlook their potential liability; in doing so, collectively gifting to HM Revenue and Customs several billions of pounds each year. We can help create and implement highly effective strategies aimed at reducing your estate’s Inheritance Tax liability. The levels and bases of taxation, and reliefs from taxation, can change at any time and are dependent on individual circumstances. Contact Ian Massey DipPFS for further information.
IPM FINANCIAL PLANNING LTD Associate Partner Practice of St. James’s Place Wealth Management
Tel: 0151 224 8728 | Mob: 07454 229726 Email: ian.massey@sjpp.co.uk Web: www.ipmfinancialplanning.co.uk The Partner Practice is an Appointed Representative of and represents only St. James’s Place Wealth Management plc (which is authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority) for the purpose of advising solely on the group’s wealth management products and services, more details of which are set out on the group’s website www.sjp.co.uk/products. The ‘St. James’s Place Partnership’ and the titles ‘Partner’ and ‘Partner Practice’ are marketing terms used to describe St. James’s Place representatives. H2SJP32380 06/19
ESSENTIAL JOURNAL X SPIRE HOSPITAL
On the Cutting Edge Since 2016, two of the country’s leading surgeons, based at Spire Hospital in Liverpool, have been working to develop pioneering, minimallyinvasive spinal surgery words by Elliot RAMSEY
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he question of how to treat spinal conditions is one which has been present throughout history. Degenerative changes in the spine have been found by archaeologists in the earliest of human remains, and the Edwin Smith papyrus, a surgical text written in around 1500 BC, details some of the same common afflictions that continue to plague us in the present. But to this day, many healthcare professionals are still conflicted as to the best method of treating these conditions. In the last two decades, there has been a 12% increase in people in the UK developing disabilities due to lower back pain, and in Europe, back pain is the most common reason for sick leave and early retirement. Meanwhile, invasive spinal surgery has been criticised in recent years due to the perceived over-willingness of surgeons to operate on patients who might otherwise have benefited from different treatment. But two leading surgeons at Spire Hospital in Liverpool have now developed a minimally-invasive surgical technique which will transform the treatment of spinal conditions. Radu Popa and Prokopis Annis, both consultant spinal surgeons at Spire, have spent the last three years fine-tuning their spinal services programme which implements revolutionary surgical technique to treat patients. Having previously only held occasional clinics for minor back problems, the duo have since built up the service to take on more complex and challenging disorders and it now stands as a one-of-a-kind facility within the country. Uniquely, Spire doesn’t deal with trauma patients, but instead mostly treats individuals with degenerative spine conditions, chronic leg pain and people who require follow-up surgeries from previous treatments. Due to the fact that the surgery requires only minimal invasion, patients are able to go home the day following their surgery, reducing the time that they spend in recovery at the hospital and minimising the overall disruption to their lives. The kind of patients that Spire now treat speaks to the enduring effect of back conditions on the population, and the way in which people are now far less likely to put up with persistent pain. With a vast proportion of people experiencing some form of back pain in their lives, and with the number of young sufferers on the rise, Spire’s minimally-invasive surgery for non-trauma patients is leading the way with cutting-edge, world-class technique.
'In the last two decades, there has been a 12% increase in people in the UK developing disabilities due to lower back pain, and in Europe, back pain is the most common reason for sick leave and early retirement.'
Head to spirehealthcare.com to find out more about Spire Liverpool Hospital’s treatment and care plans for spinal surgery
Issue 48 | The Essential Journal
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CALM
We are a movement against suicide, the single biggest killer of men under 45 in the UK. Get support and join the campaign at theCALMzone.net
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The Essential Journal | Issue 48
image credit: Matt Treece
LIFESTYLE
James Threlfall: On Failure Pro Skater and TV presenter, James Threlfall MBE, lets us in on his experience with injury and complacency, where it took him, and what he learned from it words by Will HALBERT & James THRELFALL
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n a social climate that practically forces us to present ourselves as high flying and perpetually motivated, it pays to be honest and open about our failures and how they affect us. It’s important to understand that failure doesn't define us, but that it’s often a necessary part of a longer process, and almost always a learning experience. James Threlfall talks us through the psychological effects of injury and the importance of making the downtime work for you. EJ
I
'Consistency increased,
often joke that skateboarding is both the best and worst thing in my life. I have an undying love for that plank of wood, but my God have I taken a beating over the years. I consider myself a non-violent person; I've certainly never been in a fight. Yet skateboarding dishes me out so many cuts and bruises that I regularly wake up feeling like I've been in a boxing ring twelve hours previous. It's great. The worst beating came a week after one of my then-biggest feats. Any athlete will tell you that they set their sights on milestones – micro-goals that they intend to tick off at some point on their journey in the pursuit of ‘making it’. In 2013, for me that was melon three-sixties; a trick that involves using your front hand to grab the heel edge of your board as you spin three-hundred-and-sixty degrees leading with your toe edge. Make sense? Cool. Six years ago at the age of twenty, I finally landed my first one over a gap. It was a trick I'd hoped I'd get much earlier, but nonetheless – micro-goal achieved. Then I got another, and another. Consistency increased, comfort (or with hindsight, complacency) set in. Then came the single attempt that I under-rotated. My back foot slipped off the board, and boom: Leg snap. My tibia, fibula and ankle blew into multiple pieces, to be precise. In those moments, you know you're beyond committed because whilst the first thing you think is ‘sh*t, I just broke my leg’, the second – and I promise this is entirely involuntary - is ‘damn, how long will I be unable to skate for?’ Messages of support were aplenty, but one from legendary British skateboarder, Dave Allen, stood out in particular: ‘Rehab as soon as you can, and trust me – lay off the unhealthy foods.’ I had every intention, honestly I did. But when you're five hours deep into a GTA session on that day alone, ‘what can I put on potato waffles today then?’ starts creeping into mind. ‘Bacon and eggs’ became a staple answer. I did precisely what Dave instructed me not to do and got fat. But to be fair, I also did what Dave suggested and rehabbed hard with resistance bands, stepping back on a skateboard four months after trying to spin my foot off. Cue potato waffle hiatus. Nonetheless, as a distant memory I see now that four months on the sofa showed me that sometimes you get so caught up in the momentum of day-to-day life to the extent of being detrimental to your progression; be that skating or otherwise. During the injury I was forced to stop. In those four months, I assessed who I wanted to be and devised a plan of how to get there. New micro-goals were set for both on and off my board, with newfound ambition and drive to boot. In 2019 I now have a television and radio presenting string to my bow that sees me busier than ever, and ironically, it's in part owed to the time that I had four months to do nothing but lie down and think. Nowadays, I try to remind myself to do that more often. Just maybe not for quite as long. Don't get me wrong, it's not an experience that I want to go through again – but if there's one thing that failure has taught me time and time again, it's that times of hardship allow you to take a look inwards, and are ultimately necessary to grow. JT
comfort (or with hindsight, complacency) set in. Then came the single attempt that I under-rotated. My back foot slipped off the board, and boom: Leg snap. My tibia, fibula and ankle blew into multiple pieces, to be precise.'
Issue 48 | The Essential Journal
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SECTION
Whether you are in need of a bespoke tailor for your special day or a business suit, we have exactly what you’re looking for. At Harland Collier, the only limit is your imagination. Metquarter, Liverpool For appointments call 07746 687 409 or email info@harlandcollier.com
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The Essential Journal | Issue 48
CONSENSUS
Reaching a Consensus
Travelling Because no two journeys are the same, we check in with a few of our frequent flyer friends to find out some of their favourite spots, must-see places, and essential carry-ons
interviews by Will HALBERT
First off, tell us a little about what you do and why that entails a little travel. I'm a co-founder of Standard & Strange, a menswear store in Oakland, California (and Santa Fe, New Mexico as of this month) and do a bit of everything. I'm traveling for 2-3 months of the year for the store, visiting trade shows to do our buying, visiting vendors and the mills and factories that make the products we stock, and above all, having fun and really getting to know the folks we work with on a deep, personal level. It takes me all over the world and is simultaneously a criminal amount of fun and a staggeringly brutal grind. Where was the last place your role took you? NYC for trade shows, in a few days I'm going to Santa Fe to get our new store open for business. Neil Barrett Co-founder of Standard & Strange Oakland, California & Santa Fe, New Mexico
Outside of work responsibilities, where's your favourite place to travel? Getting on my motorcycle and doing 1-2 week road trips alone. I clear out all the apps on my phone that pester me with notifications and I tell my staff to ‘only call me if I need to turn around and go home’. It's the other end of the spectrum, just two wheels, an open road and my own thoughts. I've got a BMW GS, and it takes me damn near anywhere. I'll bring camping gear with me, head to the American Southwest and camp on public land. Beyond the usual toothbrush and a change of underwear, are there any personal essentials that you feel compelled to take along for the ride with you when travelling? Merino wool tees. I've been wearing them every day for over 10 years and they're the absolute best. I've tried them all and Outlier's tees are head and shoulders above the rest. I'm a very light packer - one pair of jeans, a couple collared shirts, and 2-3 changes of merino tees/underwear/socks will last me 1 month on the road easily. I'm not a criminal - I do laundry on the road, whether it's in the hotel room sink or having someone launder it for me. Bose wireless noise canceling headphones make flying much more comfortable. The worst part about flying is having to listen to the conversations of other Americans. One of the best remedies for jet lag is 20-30 minutes of regular exercise. I run - the kit is simple and it's really great to wake up early in a new city/neighborhood and go running. You'll see parts of the city you otherwise wouldn't. In terms of back home: When is the best time to visit your city? Where are some of the best places to visit? Spring, Summertime and Autumn are great times to visit the Bay Area. Some of the best restaurants in the country are out here, both in Oakland and San Francisco. One of the best parts of living here is the nature that's within a few hours of driving. Yosemite is a must-visit if you've got the time, the wine country in Napa/Sonoma is incredible, and there's always a road trip up or down the coast. I always recommend doing a 50/50 split between time in Oakland/San Francisco and taking a road trip and spending time in nature. Any tourist traps or places we should avoid? The only redeeming feature of Fisherman's Wharf in San Francisco is the In-N-Out Burger there, but you can find 'em elsewhere. Alcatraz is fantastic - it's one of the few touristy things that are worth doing. Walking across the Golden Gate Bridge is very overrated. Drive across it and go for a hike in the Marin Headlands instead.Traffic is always a shitshow in the Bay Area. Don't rent a car while staying in SF/Oakland. Rent a car for road trips. And lastly, any countries, cities, journeys or pilgrimages that you'd like to tick off the list? I've got a good friend living in Zimbabwe that I'll visit next year. I've never visited Africa but Zimbabwe in particular is meant to be a very special place. I've also wanted to do walk the Camino de Santiago trail in Spain - it's an old pilgrimage route that's been traveled by hundreds of thousands since AD800. It's a 500-mile walk and takes around 30-40 days to do the full route.
Issue 48 | The Essential Journal
'I'm not a criminal I do laundry on the road, whether it's in the hotel room sink or having someone launder it for me.'
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CONSENSUS
First off, tell us a little about what you do and why that entails a little travel. Mostly what I do is communicate with people, especially those uninitiated and those who have genuine love for Monkey Shoulder Blended Malt Whisky. How I do this is a much longer answer. Where was the last place your role took you? Adelaide, Australia. But the opportunities have been incredible in the past year, with trips planned to Italy, Greece, Iceland, Argentina, Singapore and of course, all around Australia.
Mike LOWE Brand Ambassador for Monkey Shoulder Blended Malt Whisky Sydney, Australia
Outside of work responsibilities, where’s your favourite place to travel? Tasmania is a real beauty! I’m most at home around farmland and outback areas, which is the great attraction of Tasmania. It’s so filled with local produce and artisan providores that to visit is to be left with a hunger for more. Beyond the usual toothbrush and a change of underwear, are there any personal essentials that you feel compelled to take along for the ride with you when travelling? Don’t forget your towel! You’re always near a beach somewhere. I carry my Monkey Shoulder towel and thongs everywhere I go. In terms of back home: When is the best time to visit your city? Where are some of the best places to visit? All through the summer months – December through April, to really capture that Australian escapism that has captured people’s wanderlust since the 1980s. Everyone’s usually at the beach during this time, and those long, hot summer days really stretch for ages. A week takes a month and eventually you wonder if you’ll ever leave. There are far too many local bars to name, but when you’re in town check out Maybe Mae (Adelaide), Fancy Free (Melbourne), The Gresham (Brisbane), Maybe Sammy (Sydney), and Dutch Trading Co. (Perth). You can’t always place that special something about a venue that makes it feel like you’re always welcomed as a friend. These places are but a few that Australia can boast for providing that down to earth and jovial hospitality for when people imagine their yet-unmet Australian mate. Any tourist traps or places we should avoid? Sometimes Bondi feels like the busiest place on earth, but that’s because it’s considered one of the best beaches in the world. If you feel the need to visit but don’t want to be overcrowded, head to one of the neighbouring beaches less than 5mins walk away. Same same, but different. And lastly, any countries, cities, journeys or pilgrimages that you’d like to tick off the list? Brazil! They seem to teach ‘The Art of the Party’ in school. The whole country is so alive.
'[Tasmania is] so filled with local produce and artisan providores that to visit is to be left with a hunger for more.'
First off, tell us a little about what you do and why that entails a little travel. We are Hawley Dunbar and Tristan Banning and we run the lifestyle website Sidewalk Hustle. We write about art, music, fashion, culture, and as such we find ourselves in new and wonderful places. Where was the last place your role took you? We were just in Chicago for Lollapalooza Music Festival with ASICS Tiger. The week before that we were in New York visiting Dia:Beacon, an old box factory turned art gallery. It is a stunning collection and well worth going to. Check out our Instagram @SidewalkHustle to see some fantastic pictures. Before that Lisbon, and Berlin were the most ‘overseas’ adventures.
Tristan BANNING & Hawley DUNBAR Co-Founders of Sidewalk Hustle Toronto, Canada
Outside of work responsibilities, where’s your favourite place to travel? Japan. We LOVE it there and try to get out that way as much as possible. We were last out that way in March for a couple of weeks. We made a special trip south of Tokyo to Naoshima Island and stayed at the Benesse House. It is an incredible place. There are several museums with dozens of large scale pieces of art outside in the ‘wild’ spread across a relatively small and easy to access area. Beyond the usual toothbrush and a change of underwear, are there any personal essentials that you feel compelled to take along for the ride with you when travelling? We always over pack. We are not light travellers. Tons of shoes, clothes, accessories, camera gear, on and on. But the one thing we bring everywhere, the real secret weapon, is our portable steamer. Having freshly steamed clothing is so key. You don’t want to look like a slob with wrinkled clothes, and sometimes you don’t want to iron clothes for various reasons. We usually have to get a new one once a year because we use it so much. In terms of back home: When is the best time to visit your city? Where are some of the best places to visit? Home is Toronto, and the best time to visit is summer. Winter isn’t that bad (subjective we know), but if you want to see how incredible Toronto, is come in the summer. The parks are full of people hanging out being social. Usually somewhere in the city is a street, food, beer festival/party. If you can swing it, come the first weekend in August. It’s a long weekend so the city parties. There is Caribana, a large Caribbean street carnival; there is a large, two day music festival uptown; there is a two-day festival put on by Drake downtown. The weather is usually pretty amazing. It’s a wild time. Any tourist traps or places we should avoid? Toronto isn’t that big compared to other global cities. A lot of the ‘tourist traps’ - the likes of the CN Tower, Kensington Market, and some shopping and food spots along Queen West and Ossington - are actually the main attractions. So no, nowhere to avoid! And lastly, any countries, cities, journeys or pilgrimages that you’d like to tick off the list? We haven’t headed down to anywhere in South America so anywhere there is on the list. We also would like to spend some time exploring South East Asia. Somewhere with nice beaches, because winter will be upon us soon enough.
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'We made a special trip south of Tokyo to Naoshima Island and stayed at the Benesse House. It is an incredible place.'
The Essential Journal | Issue 48
CULTURE
Going It Alone In his debut book, Tim Voors traverses the world-renowned Pacific Crest Trail, pushing himself to his physical and mental limits, and musing on the restorative qualities of going it alone in the natural world words & interview by Elliot RAMSEY
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im Voors has always possessed a keen curiosity about what lies beyond the horizon. His adventurous nature, born out of his childhood experiences of trekking with his family in Europe, has been the driving force behind his fascination with the great outdoors. Having walked across New Zealand, around the Japanese island Shikoku and through Spain, his latest expedition saw him travelling from Mexico to Canada in an epic pilgrimage. In The Great Alone, Voors documents the six months he spent tackling one of the most challenging and dangerous hiking trails in the world. EJ The Great Alone is a book about reconnecting with yourself through solitary travel and adventure. When did your love of the great outdoors emerge? Each summer during my childhood, we trekked through the European Alps with four other families. Each year we gathered high in the Alps and set out on foot. We camped in the wild along river banks and rarely saw another living soul. There were never any hot showers or swimming pools during our summer vacations. Life was simple and spartan, as we enjoyed everything nature had to offer. We often didn’t follow the marked mountain trails, but created our own paths through the mountains to the next valley. This way it was always an adventure because you never knew exactly where you were going and how long the day was going to be. During these wonderful trips, we lived in a bubble, secluded from society, constantly in motion, nomadically moving from valley to valley. One night, as we all sat around the campfire, my mother told a story about her own mother, who in 1930 had climbed with ropes and crampons to the summit of the Matterhorn in Switzerland. I was mesmerized by tales like these and hoped to one day embark on such adventures myself. The Pacific Crest Trail is renowned Issue 48 | The Essential Journal
for being an incredibly challenging - and often dangerous - route to complete. How did the realities of the trip match up to your expectations? During the year of preparation, I found it very hard to know what to expect and, of course, I had my fears. I worried about being caught out in the desert with no water left and about being totally alone for days on end. Things like snakes and bears I was, somehow, less fearful of. I figured they were probably more scared of me than I was of them. The realities of the trail taught me that life moves relatively slowly and that there is always time to react with common sense in a situation. It turned out that the snakes and bears live between your ears, mostly. To battle the heat I carried lots of water with me through the desert. The weight on my back, with all that extra water, was tough to deal with. It dawned on me what the word ‘wilderness’ actually meant: not romantic and beautiful, but often desolate, painful, scary, dry, and dangerous. What kind of training had you undertaken before commencing the trip? To be honest, I didn’t train much beforehand. I was working full-time right up until I left the Netherlands for the US. Plus, my country is so flat that it’s practically impossible to prepare yourself for the mountainous terrain of the Pacific Crest Trail. I did train my lower back and core muscles by hiking with a backpack full of Coke bottles, but you don’t really have to train much for the PCT. The trick is to start slowly and rest frequently. If you take it easy during the first seven weeks of the desert, you’ll be in perfect shape by the time you reach the Sierra mountains. You decided to hike the trail entirely on your own. Was it as much a mental journey as it was a physical one for you? I started on my own but, as I love
meeting new people, I formed special friendships with several people during my time on the trail. I walked alone during the day and would join others in the evenings, but the journey is much tougher mentally than it is physically. I went through ecstatic highs and painful lows, but I have never felt more alive before in my life. Was there a sense of freedom and liberation in hiking the trail on your own? I guess that we’re all searching for our own sense of freedom, and going it alone through the wilderness gave me that. It’s a special gift - a luxury in many ways - and very humbling to be able to experience. I was able to move freely, without any commitments, and yet felt the comfort and safety that the hiker community gave me. What was the most challenging moment of the hike? The most challenging moment of the hike was my ordeal during a storm on the summit of Mount Whitney. At 14,505 feet, it’s California’s highest peak and I was totally exhausted from the six-hour climb to this altitude. The weather had been pretty calm the whole day, but on the peak, I could see the thunderstorm coming up from the other side of the mountain. On the peak, there was no real safe haven beyond the 100-year-old emergency shelter with a rickety metal roof. I suddenly regretted my cavalier plan to see the sunset and sunrise from the summit. Not only was the lightning storm scary, but that fear stayed with me for the following two or three weeks. Perhaps I was traumatised in some sense. I became paranoid, fearful of the unknown, and I lost all trust in nature itself. Do you have a favourite place or memory from your time on the hike? My favourite place was near the end of the hike, at mile 2,282 on the Goat Rocks. The contrasting autumn colours were stunning - the views of the
distant, whitecapped sleeping volcanoes and the beautiful thin trail winding ahead across the ridge of the Cascades. But it was ultimately the people that I met during my hike that created the lasting magic and impactful memories. The deep conversations with strangers and powerful friendships that grew over the months on the trail - that’s where the real memories for life were forged. What’s the next challenge for you? I’m currently back home, working hard, enjoying my family and watching my children grow. I’ve incorporated a lot of micro-adventures into my daily life. I try to go wild camping at least once a week with a friend or with one of my children. I have also started going on 24-hour hikes with each of my parents, who are 80 and 75 years old, camping out in nature and reflecting on life. My next thru-hike will probably take me to the US again, as I hope to embark on the Continental Divide Trail from Montana to New Mexico. It’s either that or the Israel National Trail. But time will tell… Find out more about Tim Voors’ adventures at randomtrailtales.com
The Great Alone by Tim Voors is available now (Gestalten) 37
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The Essential Journal | Issue 46
ESSENTIAL JOURNAL X LA MARZOCCO
From Bean to Barista and Beyond Chances are, your daily coffee fix is as well-travelled as it is much-needed. La Marzocco probe a few of their trusted roasters about their far-out journeys into the weird and wonderful world of speciality coffee
The Roaster Roster
Nathan RETZER Quarter Horse Coffee Birmingham
words by Will HALBERT
I
t should come as little surprise, but La Marzocco aren’t just trusted purveyors of superlative coffee machines, they’re also the prime instigators of the deep conversations to be had around them. Speaking to a few of their leading roasters from across the country, La Marzocco get the lowdown on the long, rich journey of everyone’s favorite pre-work/postwork pick-me-up. EJ How closely do you work with coffee farmers to source your coffee beans? Have you ever travelled to any of the farms yourselves? Nathan RETZER, Quarter Horse Coffee, Birmingham: There are a few farmers and co-ops that we have worked with since we started. Last year, I went to Peru and sourced our first small-batch, high-grown coffee from a farm owned by Don Saul. Between us and another roaster we bought all of it. It was great to see where the coffee was grown, choose it based on quality, and have lunch with the family that had put so much work into it. Scott JAMES, Coaltown Coffee Roasters, Ammanford: We work alongside dedicated origin partners who work closely with our producers, implement sustainability incentives and ensure all lots attract traceable and verified. As a roastery, we only presume the highest quality lots scoring at a minimum of 83. Nicole FERRIS, Climpson & Sons, London: We have partnerships with our producers. This month, we are taking a couple of customers to Daterra Estate in Brazil to showcase what they do there. It is an invaluable experience to see the work that goes in at origin to create high quality coffee. Personally, I’ve traveled to Guatemala to see an example of a sustainable coffee farm in practice. It was such a magical place and a very eye-opening experience to see the tireless effort to create an ecosystem where coffee thrives along with the people involved in it. We had the opportunity to go bird watching at 4 am by going off roading in a jeep then climbing up at altitude to near the top of Volcan Atitlan - it had incredible views.
Issue 48 | The Essential Journal
Tereza VERTATOVA, Curve Coffee Roasters, Margate: We try to work as closely with producers as we can and always ensure all the coffees we buy are fully-traceable all the way to the source. Given the size of our company and team, we can only do this with the help of our trusted importing and exporting partners. Last year, we travelled to Guatemala to visit producers whose coffees we buy along with our partners, Primavera Coffee. We’re currently planning a trip to Peru along with Falcon Speciality at the end of the month, and then to Colombia later in Autumn. Prior to running Curve, I spent some time on a farm in Brazil, where we now source our Brazilian lots from. One by one, we'd like to visit all the places we buy coffees from, it's a work in progress. Travelling to origins and meeting with producers is probably the best thing about running this business, it's so interesting and rewarding for both sides – us and the producers. It's the only way to really understand the process and get a personal connection with the product we're working with. One of the best moments we've had since starting this was when we brought a bag of roasted coffee to its grower (El Rancho farm in Guatemala) and he felt so proud, and gathered the whole family to come and meet us and take pictures. Rob BUTTERWORTH, Butterworth & Son Coffee Roasters and Tea Smiths, Suffolk: We pride ourselves in working as directly as possible with farms and co-ops at origin, I’ve visited, Kenya, Peru, Jamaica, Indonesia and Guatemala on many occasions on the quest for quality coffee. As one of the first roasters to champion Peruvian speciality coffee as an origin in it's own right, I was awarded a trip to Peru by the Peruvian Agricultural ministry to visit the regions and co-ops I purchased from over the years. How important is the concept of terroir when it comes to coffee? Will beans from a particular region impart a particular flavour? Do you as a roastery prefer a particular region/country?
Nathan: Terroir is very important when it comes to coffee. Microlots can show how much of a difference in flavour and quality can exist on the same farm. Every region is different, even within the country, and there are so many factors that can affect flavour. When someone says ‘I don't like Colombian coffee’, it just doesn't make sense. The coffees from Colombia can be so wildly different. You can have a sweet chocolate flavour, or a bright and light citrus flavour. The country is too blunt of an instrument. We try to get a large variety of flavours in the roastery, and we don't pay too much attention to the country, but give more weight to what is in the cup. Nicole: We select different regions for different flavour profiles that then compliment whether we are serving for espresso, filter or adding milk. So terroir is really important. For example, Guatemalan coffees are a great all-rounder with medium body and acidity, and chocolate, caramel, pear notes. Kenyan coffees on the other hand are typically grown at high altitudes, so you notice the acidity and complexity of the cup with tea like, berry, and bright citrus notes. We love Kenyan coffee for filter in particular, and Guatemalan makes not only great batch brew but espresso and milk-based drinks as well. Tereza: Terroir is incredibly important! That's exactly what we're trying to put forward: how different flavours in a coffee can be depending on where it comes from, how high it was grown, how it was processed, etc. Even coffees grown within one farm or a mountain can have a very different flavour profile if they're grown at different altitudes or are differently processed after they've been harvested. That’s what’s so exciting about coffee! At Curve, the way we source our coffees and compose our offer list is based on seasonality, so that we always have fresh coffees from a small number of origins. It's always exciting to get fresh coffee arriving from most recent harvests, especially from places been working with for a few years now (in Guatemala
Scott JAMES Coaltown Coffee Roasters Ammanford
or Ethiopia). It's interesting to see and taste what a particular year's harvest brings, what improvements have been made or what particular challenges producer has to face etc. Rob: For our signature 4Bean Blend™ we stick to 4 origins and within those origins the same regions. We want to provide our customers with a consistently awesome product and buying coffee for this blend that has the same flavour profiles is everything. We run a programme called Coffee of the Moment which features coffees of different processes, origins, single varietals etc and these change every 3-5weeks. We produce special artwork and marketing material for these coffees and this programme is all about championing new coffee and introducing the consumer to something different and possibly out of their comfort zone. Do you think consumers are more interested in the journey behind their coffee nowadays? Nathan: I do think so. We get a lot of questions from our customers about where the coffee comes from and why it is so different. People can see that we roast it in-house, but they know there is more to the story. The stories behind different coffees are normally exotic and people-focused, something that consumers can really get behind. Scott: Absolutely. We have a vary varied demographic that visit our roastery, from teens, to 60-year-old ex-miners, to families on a day trip, all of whom have a keen interest in the preparation and backstory behind each cup.
Nicole FERRIS Climpson & Sons London
Tereza VERTATOVA Curve Coffee Roasters Margate
Nicole: As specialty coffee becomes more mainstream, consumers are becoming ever more conscious in their buying habits. They are choosing to buy local or independent or seek out flavour through speciality coffee. They are also asking questions about coffee origins, where it is grown and how that impacts the flavours. If this information is delivered in an accessible and interesting way, consumers appear to be more engaged. Tereza: Certainly, and it's so great to see. We host public cuppings every month and run a few different private classes. The attendees' main motivation for coming is usually that they want to learn more about the product they consume every day and find out about its origins and the processes involved in preparation. It's so good to see the reactions when they realise there's so much more to it that they initially thought and gain respect for speciality coffee and its growers. Rob: Thanks to the information available on the internet compared to what was around at the conception of the Third Wave, the consumer can research all aspects of specialty coffee and connect with like-minded folk to learn and discuss their experiences too. It’s a pretty exciting time for coffee.
Rob BUTTERWORTH Butterworth & Son Coffee Suffolk
For more information on La Marzocco UK & Ireland head to uk.lamarzocco.com 39
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The Essential Journal | Issue 48
DRINKING
High Spirits Spotlight
World Whisky Explore a world of whisky and venture to unexpected lands for your next dram
Tried & Tested Tipples
words by The Whisky Exchange
W
hile we love the diversity of whisky from Scotland, America and Ireland, there are now more than 20 countries around the globe with whiskies available. Different areas are known for unique styles or distilling techniques, and there is a whole world of new experiences for your taste buds to discover. We’ve picked a few of our favourites – no easy task! – to help you expand your whisky horizons. WE
Wanderlust in liquid form, here are our serving suggestions for a couple of well-travelled whisky cocktails
KANDY GUNPOWDER Created by Hoppers in Soho, this drink accentuates Amrut's tropical flavours by adding passionfruit. Influenced by Sri Lankan cuisine and flavours, the addition of fresh green peppercorns gives this a delicious, savoury streak. 40ml Amrut Single Malt Whisky 15ml Fino sherry 7.5ml Sugar syrup 5 Fresh green peppercorns Whole passionfruit (to garnish) Bruise the peppercorns in a Boston shaker tin, add the other ingredients and shake with ice. Single strain into a rocks glass over fresh ice. Garnish with a quarter of a passionfruit and sprinkled peppercorns.
Australia STARWARD NOVA
Taiwan KAVALAN VINHO BARRIQUE
South Africa BAIN’S CAPE MOUNTAIN WHISKY
India AMRUT PEATED
David Vitale, founder of Starward, was inspired to create a unique Australian whisky which reflected Melbourne’s famed ‘four seasons in a day’ temperature swings. Although his whisky is young – 3 years old – the variable climate helps the whisky to mature much faster. Starward Nova is a fruity and refined single malt, matured exclusively in Australian red-wine casks. It has notes of fresh grape, black cherries and caramel running through the palate. While this young whisky is immensely sippable, we recently tried it with tonic for an Australian take on a Highball and it got a definite thumbs up as an ideal aperitif – see right for method.
Kavalan only opened in 2006 – in Yilan in north-eastern Taiwan – but it has already wowed the whiskyworld. This is partially because the distillery’s casks are aged in Taiwan’s tropical environment and reach maturity in just 4 to 9 years. The heat and humidity of Yilan concentrates Kavalan’s signature tropical fruit character and produces exceptionally flavoursome and easy-drinking whiskies, as well as intense cask-strength expressions... Kavalan’s Vinho Barrique is a cask-strength, single-cask Kavalan distilled in June 2012, aged entirely in a wine barrique and bottled in 2018, exclusively for The Whisky Exchange. The resulting whisky is a full-on wine cask experience, with layers of rich dried and berry fruit complimented by sweet apple, spice and a touch of the tropical.
Bain's is the first South African single grain whisky and is made in Wellington at the James Sedgwick distillery. It made an impressive debut outside of South Africa, picking up a Gold Medal at the International Wine & Spirits Competition and a Silver at the International Spirits Challenge in 2010, before crowning that a few years later with the title of World's Best Grain Whisky at the World Whiskies Awards in 2013. Its fame has only grown since then. This whisky owes its distinctive aromas and smooth flavour to the warm South African climate which accelerates maturation and delivers a soft and rounded whisky at a young age. Expect a combination of toffee and floral notes with vanilla aromas and a hint of spice – that spicy hint makes this a great option for a Whisky Sour.
Founded in 1948, Amrut became the first Indian distillery to release a single malt whisky, discovering along the way that the hot Bangalore climate helps matures whiskies at a much faster rate than in Scotland. Due to a lack of suitable peat in India – peat can be found around the world, but each area’s peat will taste different – Amrut’s peated barley is grown in Europe and malted using Scottish peat before being shipped to India. Back at the distillery, the team use traditional whisky production methods to make a rich and complex whisky. Sweet wood and spiced smoke flavours coat the palate with layers of fruit and a gentle citrus zest to finish.
Issue 48 | The Essential Journal
NOVA & TONIC The quinine bitterness of tonic pairs perfectly with the fruitiness of Starward Nova in this drink, letting you enjoy whisky as an aperitif or with food. 50ml Starward Nova 100ml Fever-Tree Mediterranean tonic Red grapefruit wedge to garnish Build in a stemless wine glass: pour the whisky and tonic over lots of ice, stir gently and garnish with a wedge of red grapefruit. 41
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moosecoffee.co - @moosecoffee 42
The Essential Journal | Issue 48
DRINKING
Location, Location, Location Ever wondered what went into making that morning coffee as good (or, dare we say, as bad) as it is? Adrià Ferran’s Coffee Sapiens might well have the answer you need
An extract from Coffee Sapiens: Innovation Through Understanding (Phaidon) is available now
Issue 48 | The Essential Journal
LATITUDE Latitude is the angular distance of a point on the earth’s surface parallel to the equator; it is measured in degrees and fractions of degrees along the meridian arc that passes at that point. Coffee grows in the zones between the Tropic of Cancer and the Tropic of Capricorn (intertropical zone), 23° to the north and south of the equator, in the so-called coffee belt. Latitude can have a decisive effect on the coffee plantation: - A change in angle of the sun’s rays changes the quality of solar energy that the plant receives. - Light variations influence the plant’s growth and germination - Unstable temperatures cause metabolic alterations and change the plant’s biological processes - Latitude can also influence the size of the beans
ALTITUDE Altitude is defined as the vertical distance from sea level to a point on the earth’s surface. Coffee grows at altitudes from sea level to 2,000 metres. Arabica varieties develop best between 600 and 2,000 metres and occasionally even at higher altitudes. Altitude influences cultivation in several ways: - It helps maintain the plant within a consistent range of ideal temperatures - Drastic temperature changes are detrimental to the health of the plant and fruit - Colder temperatures slow down, yet improve, development of the fruit’s aroma -Altitude also affects rainfall levels, another crucial factor The development of the plant and the fruit is so strongly influenced by the altitude of their cultivation that it can affect characteristics of the elaborated product and the final elaboration, such as the body, acidity, aroma and fineness.
words by Ferran ADRIÁ
CLIMATE Like every other plant, coffee responds to the stimulus of different weather conditions. Not all the elements that make up the climate act directly as ecological factors in the life cycle of coffee. Those that affect commercial organic production are temperature, rainfall, sunlight and relative humidity. Quality problems associated with climatic factors: -Shrivelled fruit and bean: shrivelled beans affected by drought are often the result of the under-development of fruit caused by a lack of humidity and are directly related to drought. It can lead to a loss of aroma, flavour and acidity in the beverage. -Crystallised bean: frost-damaged fruit may show signs of yellow, black or grey discolour- ation on the bean, which may in turn have a shiny/metallic appearance. The beverage created from it can taste exceptionally bitter and acidic.
SOIL Soil is the layer of organic and mineral material that covers the earth’s surface where plants develop roots, and from which they extract the necessary nutrients for growth that create the conditions for productivity. Soil composition plays a fundamental role: it facilitates growth and supplies the water and nutrients essential for the coffee plant’s growth, development and fruit production. Soil is made up of solid inorganic and organic substances, water and air. The soil’s potential depends on a series of chemical, physical and biological properties that determine its fertility. There is no single type of soil favoured by the coffee plant, as it is able to adapt to various types of terrain, but in general it prefers moist, deep, porous, well-drained and wellbalanced soils rich in organic material and with a granular structure able to absorb water rapidly and drain away the excess. One of the most common and widespread factors that limits coffee growing is the soil’s acidity.
43
DRINKING
Drinking With
Dishoom Old-world grandeur meets next-level Gimlets at Dishoom Manchester’s Irani-inspired Permit Room words by Will HALBERT
image credit: Lateef Okunnu
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The Essential Journal | Issue 48
DRINKING
The Great Escape
T
o step inside the hallowed halls of Dishoom’s Manchester site (a listed, former-masonic lodge) is first and foremost, to step into a rich and winding narrative. To drink or dine at Dishoom is to take a seat in the post-war grandeur of the great Irani cafés of the 1920s. That is to say that there is an intrigue at play at Dishoom, a narrative. It’s not in-your-face, and it’s certainly no gimmick, but it is charming. Dishoom boasts an attention to detail and an eye for narrative (not to mention a food and drinks menu) that transports us from the hustle and bustle of the Deansgate streets outside to a time of hawkers, hucksters and peddlers. A place of intrigue and clandestine talks. Or you know, just some great food and a damn good cocktail.
Honouring the Greats
East India Gimlet
Masonic Mixology
W
ith such a rich narrative underpinning Dishoom’s whole operation, it comes as no surprise that the building in which they’ve decided to set up shop should have as rich a narrative and as compelling a history as that laid out in the restaurant’s already fabled menus. Once closed to the public by order of the ancient brotherhood of the Freemasons, the Grade II-listed Manchester Hall stands as both a link to a secret past and a gateway to Dishoom’s out-of-this-world drinking and dining experiences. Manchester Hall is heralded as one of the most ambitious Freemasn’s halls still standing in the UK. Designed by Percy Scott Worthington almost a century ago, the building boasts a stripped-back but confidently imposing aesthetic, giving little away as to the clandestine wonders that lie within. By all accounts, it’s a perfect fit for the mystique and charm for which Dishoom has become so famous over the years. Accordingly, Dishoom have opted to honour the building’s past by introducing a few features from India’s own Masonic brotherhood. The floor is an exact replica of the District Grand Masonic Lodge of Bombay, and portraits of the order’s Grand Master Masons have been commissioned to adorn the walls of what was once the Freemason’s Derby Room. Backstory aside, it’s clear that Dishoom’s style and grandeur speak for themselves, but it does offer some food for thought for those who like their Gimlets garnished with a little historical gravitas.
F
or all the visual flair and unchecked, verbal pyrotechnics that have come to define the modern day cocktail menu, there’s no denying that you just can’t beat a classic. Simple in its execution, modest in its ingredients, and subtle in its flavours, the humble Gimlet is exactly that. Rumour has it that the Gimlet is so classic, if fact, that it was originally concocted to help sailors fight off scurvy. A simple mix of London Dry Gin, Rose’s lime and a touch of celery, Dishoom’s East India Gimlet honours the perfect simplicity of the original whilst also providing its own, subtle elevation. Not a spec of dry ice in sight and we couldn’t be happier about it. If you haven’t already replaced your Gin & Tonic with the Gimlet this summer then feel free to do so now. Thank us later.
Issue 48 | The Essential Journal
Libation Education
Pegs & Paanch
L
et it never be said that drinking with The Essential Journal isn’t an educational experience. On the contrary, lessons abound when you drink with us. For instance, did you know that the term ‘punch’ comes from the Hindi word ‘paanch’ meaning ‘five’, as in five ingredients? Did you also know that a ‘peg’ refers to a measure of alcohol originally given to miners after a hard day’s work under the Britsh Raj? You're now equipped with all the knowledge you need to navigate the Pegs & Paanch section of the Permit Room menu. Our recommendation? Celebrate your newfound knowledge with Dishoom’s IPA Paanch. An intensely floral hit of hop-infused, black-tea-steeped gin is quickly mellowed by the silky smooth charm of a little jaggery (think caramel meets maple syrup). A few spices and a dash of Ardbeg balance things out by bringing a little smoke to the party. It’s the smart choice.
45
DINING
Recipe
Mapo Tofu Don
Addressing the Table
Sichuan Tofu & Aubergine Rice Bowls Courtesy of Atsuko Ikeda
Itinerant bartender and co-owner of Liverpool’s Present
M
Company, Jake O'Brien Murphy, ponders on the doubleact of disillusion and delight that defines the city of Paris words by Jake O'BRIEN MURPHY
‘P
aris Syndrome’ is a bizarre, psychiatric phenomenon that affects a small amount of Japanese tourists visiting the French capital for the first time. The onset is sparked by the shattering realisation that the Paris of popular culture is a mere fabrication to sell us romantic comedies, berets and Disney Kingdom tiaras. It leaves grown adults jiberring wrecks, unstuck in the world as their new reality comes tumbling down around them. My first experiences of Paris all came second hand. In my first few visits to the country, I had hardly even set foot outside of Charles De Gaul International; a chasmus void of chaos where all instructions and directions are written in some dead, almost hieroglyphic language and the airport is entirely staffed by exoskeletal wardens of misery. One of my earliest second hand encounters with Paris as an adult came from someone who I can only describe as odiously cool. A person so terrified of being perceived as unoriginal that their fear had cannibalised all the interesting qualities they might have once possessed. They were the Bez of their own life. They had a walk on part in their own fate. ‘The real Paris doesn’t exist in any guide book,’ they exhorted, side-stepping into a conversation I was having with a friend. We Brits have a wonderful way with passive aggression and underhandedness, it is part of our birthright. We were battered around the head with stories from the ‘real’ Paris as if it were some spiritual absolute. To cut the verbal assault short it culminated in a crescendo of ‘we found somewhere to eat baguettes and cheese’. Enlightened. We stare starry eyed across the channel at Paris, like we could behold Nirvana. We give it so much gravity and romantic weight, as if somewhere in the city there is a hermetically-sealed corner bistro where Jean Paul Sarte, Albert Camus and Pepe Le Pew sit and drink chilled magnums of Beaujolais, lazily flicking frites at their open mouths while they discuss existentialism, chain smoking liquorice-skin cigarettes and sneering at people like me. Paris, I eventually found out; in a dramatic plot twist, is a wonderfully vibrant place. I have been a few times now, and upon each return I am charmed more and more into loving it. It is a constantly-shifting, modern city. The energy of the place is infectious, there is optimism and an eye on the future. The people always seem to need to be somewhere else, but don’t mind being late. There’s a pace to how they eat and drink that I revel in. We sat in a pub called the Cambridge Public House, owned by my friend Hyacinthe Lescoet. Hyacinthe is a behemoth of a man with a gentle voice and the kind provincial soul of his native Brittany. His raison d’etre is flawless hospitality. He handed over palomas and beers while I sat with a few friends, reminiscing and catching up. It was a strange feeling, I always equate pubs with my childhood and therefore my home. Here I was in oh-so-chic Marais, inside a pub, with a group of friends; thoroughly enjoying doing relatively little. Not a beret or a gaunt, postwar thinker in sight. If this is what Paris has to offer, the Japanese can keep the ‘real’ thing. JOM
Atsuko’s Japanese Kitchen by Atsuko Ikeda (Ryland Peters & Small) available now | £16.99
any Japanese dishes are inspired by Chinese cuisine, and this particular dish originates from Szechuan, where at the end of the Qing Dynasty (1644–1912), the pock-marked (po) wife (ma) of a restaurateur became famous for her tofu recipe. Mapo tofu is soft and set in a spicy bean sauce and is traditionally made with minced/ground pork. It’s a dish that goes particularly well with steamed rice – maybe that’s why the Japanese love it so much! Szechuan spices can be very fiery to the point of numbing, so I’ve created a milder, but still fragrant version, using aubergine/eggplant instead of meat. It’s just as soft but much lighter... guilt-free seconds are a must!
INGREDIENTS 400 g packet of silken tofu (soft tofu) 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil 1 tbsp vegetable oil 10g. garlic, chopped 20g fresh ginger, peeled & finely chopped 1/2 leek, thinly sliced 1 aubergine, diced into small cubes
been a few times now,
MAPO SAUCE 2 tbsp sake 2 tbsp red miso 1 tbsp mirin 1 tbsp soy sauce 2 tsp runny honey 1 tsp Sichuan broad bean chilli paste 1/2 tbsp katakuriko (potato starch) or cornflour mixed with 1/2 tbsp cold water 400g cooked white Japanese rice, to serve 1 spring onion, thinly sliced, to garnish
and upon each return I
SERVES 2
'Paris, I eventually found out; in a dramatic plot twist, is a wonderfully vibrant place. I have
am charmed more and
more into loving it. It is a constantly-shifting,
modern city. The energy
of the place is infectious, there is optimism and an eye on the future.'
@jakeobrienmurphy @presentcompany.bar
METHOD 1. Dice the tofu into small cubes, then wrap in two layers of paper towels to remove any excess water. Set aside. 2. Meanwhile, to make the mapo sauce, combine the sake, red miso, mirin, soy sauce, honey and Sichuan broad bean chilli paste in a small bowl. Stir together and set aside. 3. Heat the toasted sesame oil and vegetable oil in a medium frying pan/skillet over a medium heat. Fry the garlic, ginger and leek for 1 minute to infuse the flavour into the oil, then add the aubergine. Fry for 2 minutes until browned. 4. Add the mapo sauce and 80ml water to the pan with the vegetables, reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, for 3 minutes. 5. Add the tofu cubes gently, then pour the katakuriko (potato starch) or cornflour and water mixture around the rim of the pan. Bring to the boil for about 1 minute to thicken the mixture slightly, then remove from the heat. 6. Divide the cooked rice between serving bowls and add the mapo tofu. Garnish the dishes with sliced spring onion. An extract from Atsuko’s Japanese Kitchen by Atsuko Ikeda
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The Essential Journal | Issue 48
Issue 48 | The Essential Journal
47
NOT JUST A BARBERS...
attitude
66 Rose Lane, Liverpool L18 0151 724 5277
48
attitude TOPMAN Church Street, Liverpool1 0151 709 1844 (opt 6)
SHOP OR BOOK ONLINE AT www.attitudemenshair.co.uk
The Essential Journal | Issue 46
DINING
At the Pass with
Tommy Banks For Tommy Banks, being wellread is just as important as being well-travelled, and the journey of the dish will always be more interesting than the journey of the chef behind it
I
’ve heard it said that the dishes we create at Roots and Black Swan represent a sort of ‘Modern British’ cuisine. I think that’s a lovely compliment. I’ve always been a huge advocate of mastering the local. But when you think about what actually goes into British cuisine, you’ll find there’s a myriad of elements, influences and inflections from all over the globe. It’s a well-travelled cuisine, brought together over time by a legion of equally well-travelled chefs. Oftentimes, however, being well-travelled isn’t necessarily about jet-setting about in search of ever more exotic flavours and spice. Sometimes, it’s as simple as having your nose in a good book. The right book, well-chosen and thoroughly-read, is a kind of journey in and of itself. It can be more valuable than a plane ticket. Christian Puglisi’s Relae: A Book of Ideas comes to mind as a good example of this. It’s not a cookbook per se, but a series of essays that paint a vivid picture of Nordic cuisine and culture. What struck me the most about Puglisi’s writing was the practical and philosophical overlap that seems to exist between the Danes and the Japanese in terms of their cooking. Both nations have a very intellectual approach to the culinary arts, and both place a high value on craftsmanship and preparation. The intersection between craft and preparation, in a culinary sense at least, lies in fermentation. I predict a fair few eye-rolls at that last sentiment, as fermentation programs are all the rage nowadays. But trends are a funny thing. Sure, they come and go, but the strongest elements of those trends tend to remain and find themselves reworked, enriched and reintegrated into menus somehow. I can’t get enough of kimchi for that very reason. Yes, it’s on trend, but it’s also healthy and delicious: It’s good for the gut and, by implication, the mind. Not to mention the fact that it fires up the endorphins with its umami-balancing qualities. Bao buns are another good example. Not quite as healthy (let’s be honest) but they are damn tasty (even if some guests do still struggle with the pronunciation). When we developed the Roots menu, we wanted to include a couple of items that were outwardly and obviously delicious, but they didn’t necessarily fit with Roots - the bao bun was one of those items. To make them fit the Roots style we used lamb fat instead of the usual powdered milk, and further elevated the British element of the dish with lovage and mint. We then fermented turnip (as an alternative to kimchi) to cut through the fatty lamb inside it - and there it is, your umami. This isn’t a product of me travelling directly to Japan to come back with a few new tricks up my sleeve. This is a result of research, planning and a desire to implement something I’ve learned in a way that complements what we already have. In short, it’s about the journey of the food itself, not the chef. I’m not all that fussed about how many countries a chef might have visited, but I’m fascinated by the way in which flavours move about, and how they seem to do so under the same general guiding philosophy of balance. Think of the chutney that mellows your curry, the tartar sauce that adds an edge to your fish and chips, or the mint sauce that sets off your lamb. The foundations of food are the same. After that, you’re simply painting the same picture, but with new and exciting paints. Even our local delicacies operate under the same guiding philosophy. Here, we fill our Yorkshire puddings with meat and veg and lather them with Yorkshire salad (a sour mix of chopped cucumber, onion, mint and vinegar). Sound familiar? It ought to, it has that said same umami charm as the bao bun and kimchi combo, or dare I say it, the same sense of balance offered by the finest of British delicacies: the kebab. If that doesn’t speak volumes about the rich journey of food, then I don’t know what does. TB
'Oftentimes, however, being well-travelled
words by Tommy BANKS
isn’t necessarily about jet-setting about in search of ever more exotic flavours and spice. Sometimes, it’s as simple as having your nose in a good book.'
image credit: Debbie Porter
To find out more about Tommy's food head online: blackswanoldstead.co.uk rootsyork.com
Issue 48 | The Essential Journal
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What’s On September – December
Tuesday 17 September 7.30pm Film Screening
Tuesday 10 December 7.30pm Film Screening
Wednesday 2 October 8pm
Thursday 19 December 7.30pm
Yesterday (cert 12A)
With Great PowerPoint Comes Great ResponsibilityPoint
Dave Gorman
Plus support Nick Doody Tuesday 5 November 8pm
Live On Mars – A Tribute To David Bowie Tuesday 19 November 7.30pm
Calexico and Iron & Wine
Elf (cert PG)
Kate Rusby at Christmas Tuesday 24 December 11am & 2pm Film Screening
It’s a Wonderful Life (cert U) Box Office 0151 709 3789 liverpoolphil.com
Plus Lisa O’Neill
LiverpoolPhilharmonic liverpoolphil liverpool_philharmonic Image Kate Rusby
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The Essential Journal | Issue 48
DINING
From Mexico to Soho Since 2011, Breddos has evolved from a makeshift taco shack into a streetfood success story. Nud Dudhia talks us through the journey so far words by Elliot RAMSEY
B
eginning life as a pop-up venture, Breddos Tacos has come a long way in a short space of time. A very long way, in fact. Influenced by its founders’ travels around the world, from Mexico and the Americas to Thailand, the trendy street-food concept now occupies two sites in London and regularly partake in collaborations and residencies. Chef and Co-Founder Nud Dudhia talks us through his journey to date and the inspiration behind his menu. EJ Tell us a little about how Breddos Tacos originally came about? I used to live in Mexico and while I was there I completely fell in love with the country’s food culture. In 2011, my business partner Chris Whitney and I decided to leave our jobs, build a makeshift shack in a Hackney car park and start our own food business selling tacos - and it all went from there, really! You’ve gone from selling tacos from a car park to now having spaces in Clerkenwell and Soho - what was the process like going from pop-ups to finding a permanent home? It was a massive adjustment for us. When you do pop-ups, you’re obviously only responsible for doing the food because the venue are sorting out the booze. But now we’ve taken on much more with our restaurants. From the taco shack to the pop-ups and residencies, each new venture has been a huge learning curve for us. Before, we’d just earn our money and go to the pub to wind down afterwards. But now we’ve got VAT and taxes and staff holidays to think about. We’ve had to grow up quickly, but thankfully we’ve had great restaurateur mentors who’ve helped us along the way.
'It’s important to do something unique. Something true to your culture, nationality or history. I’m always reminded of the old Levi’s slogan, "When the world zigs, zag"'
Your menus are authentic yet experimental at the same time - how important have your travels been in achieving that balance? They’ve definitely had a massive impact. I’ve been travelling almost all of my life, from the age of two. I lived in Zambia as a kid, and I’ve lived in Thailand and Mexico. In terms of my food, the Mexican flavour profile is about layering, balancing the sweet with the salty, and so on. But I’m not Mexican. I’ve studied the cuisine and have an understanding, but everything I do is my own interpretation of it. Using Asian influences in my cooking is about creating something new and exciting. I really love Los Angeles and I think it’s the spiritual home for the kind of food we create. It’s such a culturally diverse place and its food really speaks to that. Talk us through your creative process when you’re coming up with flavour combinations for your tacos? A lot of what we create is based around seasonal ingredients, but also around what we want to eat. Everything is accompanied by salsas which are tailored to the dishes we’ve made and we often strive for balance in our food, aiming to create fresh, light dishes which layer the sweet, salty and spicy in our signature way. Speaking of ingredients, how important is it for you to source your produce from within the UK? It’s very important to us, but there are some things that we can’t source locally things like chillies which we have to get from Mexico to maintain the authenticity of the dishes we create. But the meat, fish and seafood we use are all sourced from within the UK, and all of the chicken we use is sustainably-sourced, too. I don’t know if it’s because it’s summer or people are geared towards healthier options, but we’re also becoming far less meat-focused at the moment. What is your personal favourite dish on your menu? Our sea urchin tostada quickly became our signature dish when we first started out. At the time, a lot of taco restaurants were doing the same sort of thing and I think a dish like that separated us from the competition. It really made me feel confident in our style, and it was a catalyst for us developing a distinctive style. How important have social media and word-of-mouth been in the success of Breddos? Because we’ve had quite an organic journey, we haven’t used PR companies. We’ve gained a great following on social media through people coming to our taco shack in Hackney, meeting us, realising that we’re friendly people and then relating to our journey. I think that now more than ever, social media is so impactful and influential for businesses to harness. Some of the opportunities that I’ve had, such as being able to travel around the world and cook for people, have come out of social media, so it’s a great tool to use. I also think that the growing interest in street-food is intertwined with the popularity of social media today. It’s easier to share information with people, everything is so instant. It’s a way to meet other people and the communal spirit of the street-food scene really works with that. What advice would you give to someone wanting to open their own restaurant? It’s important to do something unique. Something true to your culture, nationality or history. I’m always reminded of the old Levi’s slogan, ‘When the world zigs, zag’. You need to be thinking, ‘What can I do that is entirely new?’ That’s become the Breddos mantra, really. It’s about doing something different - and trying to be better than everyone else while you’re doing it. Find out more about Breddos Tacos and the story of their success at breddostacos.com
Issue 48 | The Essential Journal
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The Essential Journal | Issue 48
CULTURE
Shipwrecked in Style Uniquely designed around the enigmatic shipwrecks that line Namibia’s Skeleton Coast,
Architectural Thoughts On
Alternative Architectural Tourism
Shipwreck Lodge plays an active role
Why hit up the the obvious landmarks when you can check
in preserving some of the world’s
out the latest and greatest architectural feats? Róisín offers
most vulnerable wildlife species
up a hitlist of buildings worth seeking out on your travels
words by Clara LE FORT
O
n a unique piece of land between the Hoarusib and Hoanib rivers in the Skeleton Coast Central Concession Area, you will find the Shipwreck Lodge. There, nestled between the dunes, are ten shipwreck-shaped chalets with a view of the Atlantic Ocean. The solar-powered camp not only matches the remarkable scenery, it lives with it: the innovative lounge and restaurant at the center of camp were designed with a wide, wraparound deck that offers A text excerpt from the book uninterrupted views across the sand, all Bon Voyage (gestalten) 2019 the way to the Atlantic Ocean. At first, the land around the lodge seems so desolate it resembles an abandoned desert. But even in the starkest conditions, wildlife always adapts. In fact, the area is home to irreplaceable and vulnerable wildlife habitats for species of the highest conservation importance, including desert elephants and the elusive brown hyena. The region also hosts the only viable lion population in Namibia outside of Etosha National Park. The Namib Desert is the second driest desert in the world and is considered to be the oldest. Species have had a long time to evolve into incredible creatures that can be studied today. Hence the need for an active conservancybased business model! Built as a joint venture between Natural Selection and two local Namibian companies, Trip Travel and Journeys Namibia, as well as with the participation of the local communities that border the park, the Shipwreck Lodge plays an active role in sustaining local ecosystems, be they natural or human. In addition, the lodge has partnered with two conservancies— the Puros Conservancy and the Sesfontein Conservancy—that cover over 2,300 square miles. The area is predominantly populated by the Ovahimba and Herero people—two Namibian tribes. The important point being that, in their capacity as landlords, the conservancies are paid monthly fees based on 8% of the lodge business’s total turnover. Conservancies therefore have a vested interest in the overall success of the lodge and the support they provide to the tourism business. Granting power to the people on the land, these communal conservancies are self-governing, democratic entities run by their members. As such, this is a great example of smart, local governance that works towards a sustainable future for wildlife as well as local communities. In 1998, the first four communal conservancies were established in Namibia. These pioneering conservancies established the model for economic survival and growth in harsh rural settings. Now there are 83 registered conservancies in Namibia. In some conservancies, tourism is becoming the key source of income, although farming is still the main source of livelihood for most conservancy members. However, with the growing effects of climate change, access to alternative income streams is becoming increasingly important. EJ
Issue 48 | The Essential Journal
words by Róisín HANLON
T
his year, instead of just hitting the obvious landmarks why not visit some buildings at the leading edge of modern architecture. Here is a small selection of buildings that are tipped to win international awards this year.
Jameel Arts Centre, Dubai, UAE by Serie Architects Many people visiting Dubai are astounded by the height, drama and opulence of the buildings over there, but Serie Architects’ Jameel Arts Centre offers a complete alternative. Often described as ‘unDubai’, the building is minimal, elegant and understated, aiming to serve as a canvas for the art inside. Two clusters of white-clad aluminium boxes frame seven courtyards and the whole site is enclosed in a simple concrete colonnade. The courtyards are designed as breakout spaces, where visitors can stop, discuss, reflect. Each one is landscaped carefully by Anouk Vogel with desert flora, some of these plants which have been salvaged from construction sites and are in fact quite old. The Jameel Arts Centre is one of the first non-governmental contemporary arts institutions in the city. The architect’s aim was to try to use 'culture as a transformative power in a city like Dubai'. Under, Båly, Norway by Snøhetta Lindesnes is perhaps not one of the most obvious holiday destinations. Situated on Norway’s southern tip, the area is known for its Viking history, natural beauty and intense changeable weather. This perhaps makes it ideal for Snøhetta’s restaurant and marine research facility ‘Under’. The structure sits on the edge of the shoreline and then sinks 5 metres beneath the surface of the water. Visitors enter on the ground level and then descend through the building to the submerged lower floors. In Norwegian ‘Under’ has the double meaning of both ‘below’ and ‘wonder’, which seems perfectly apt for such an amazing space such as that created in the main dining room. The material palette is dark and grained, drawing the eye toward the end wall which is one, vast 11x3.4m window looking out under the sea. There is something theatre-like about the space, with the rocky sea bed outside as the stage for the wildlife. At Under you can enjoy an 18 course immersion menu with seasonal ingredients sourced from the local surroundings, including marine life that can be seen on just the other side of the panoramic window. This interaction aims to inspire a better understanding of the food on our plates and therefore – hopefully - more responsible consumption. Oasis Terraces, Punggol, Singapore, by Serie Architects & Multiply Architects Also by Serie Architects is the Oasis Terraces in Singapore. This project aims to create ‘an architectural framework for communal life to unfold’. The five storey building houses a health clinic, community centre, education centre and restaurants. It is covered in roof terraces and gardens and in its centre has a series of sloping terraces filled with lush planting that spill down to the canal at ground level. These terraces create a wide variety of spaces available for communal public use. Visitors and residents alike can garden, dine outside, perform, play or simply sit and be restful. The building itself is bright, white and open – creating a permeable framework for these community gardens to slot into. Bicycle Parking, Utrecht, Netherlands by Ector Hoogstad Architecten The popularity of cycling in the Netherlands is well known; a recent survey showed over 40% of all journeys around Utrecht were on bike, and that there are more bicycles in the Netherlands than there are people. It stands to reason then, that the largest bicycle garage in the world would be found here. The parking is housed in a subterranean landscape of concrete and timber ramps and curves beneath the new Station Square. Elegantly-curved columns punch through the ceiling and figuratively link the space to the square above. The final stage opened this month, meaning that there is now space for the full capacity of up to 12,500 bikes. Adjacent to Utrecht Central Station, the parking encourages mass public transport use; spaces are free for 24 hours, there is access and security all day and all night, ensuring the facility is open to all. Oodi Helsinki Central Library, Helsinki, Finland, by ALA Architects Helsinki’s new Library has been placed opposite the Finnish Parliament, on Kansalaistori square - this proximity intentionally creating a physical symbol of the relationship between the state and the citizens. The ground floor is designed to be an extension of the external plaza, with a timber canopy sheltering the immediate outside public space. This floor is very open allowing visitors to move freely and get a feel for the library as a whole. The first floor offers more enclosed spaces, which can be used for working, recording studios, maker’s spaces and the like. Then the top floor opens up again. Nicknamed ‘book heaven’ it is a completely open top floor with undulating floors and ceilings, creating a serene space to sit and read or enjoy 360 degree views across Helsinki. The library as a whole is a beautiful embodiment of the Finnish Library Act’s goal ‘for libraries to promote lifelong learning, active citizenship, democracy and freedom of expression.’ RH
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COLUMN
Coffee & Counsel with
Adonis Michael This month, Michael Rose & Baylis director, Adonis Michael, gives us a little advice on what to do should your well-earned vacation go awry words by Adonis MICHAEL
I
t’s that time of year again: Schools out and your bags are packed. Whether it’s two weeks in Thailand or ten days in Tel Aviv, it’s safe to say you’re excited and you’ve probably been looking forward to this all year. Passports? Check! Travel insurance? Check! Appropriate foreign currency? Check! Wow, this is easy, right? You’ve got this totally under control. That is, of course, until you walk into the airport to check in only to be told that your flight has been delayed. One hour? Not to worry, let’s browse the shops. A wee spray of the newest Tom Ford, a sip of the promotional Gin offering mixed with the latest tonic pairing (elderflower and Juniper berry were so 2017, keep up). The time soon flies (excuse the pun). But then you come to glance at the departures screen and find, to your horror, that your flight has now been delayed a further three hours. Not so easy to pass the time now, is it? And if you’ve got the wife and nippers with you this could be approaching pain levels akin to something you’d find at Guantanamo Bay, only without the flattering orange jumpsuit! Depending on your pain threshold, you can soldier through this dark time and move on. Never to speak of it again. Alternatively, you could seek some sort of recompense for this needless misery you have been subjected to. May I draw your attention to the EU regulations for a moment (that is, before Boris throws them back or Jean Claude Juncker snatches them off us). Regulation 261/2004 to be precise. Basically, if you booked a flight that departed from Europe, or one that was with a European airline, then you're covered if your flight is delayed or cancelled. But it’s not a one size fits all regulation: what you get depends on the length of your delay and the length of your flight. If your flight is delayed for at least two hours and depending on how far you're flying, your airline has to give you two free phone calls or emails, free meals and refreshments appropriate to the delay, plus free hotel accommodation and hotel transfers if an overnight stay is required. Importantly, this is not classed as compensation, this is assistance. Each affected passenger can also claim flight delay compensation if the delay is not due to extraordinary circumstances. These range from political instability and drone disruption to strikes by baggage handlers. As a guide, the compensation ranges from €250 for more than 3 hours delay (up to 1500km flight distance) to €600 for more than 4 hours (and a distance of more than 3500km). If your flight is delayed for more than five hours you're entitled to choose between being rerouted on a different flight or getting a refund, just as if your flight had been cancelled. And each passenger is still entitled to flight delay compensation. As well as the compensation you could be owed under EU Regulation 261/2004, you might also be entitled to claim for any extra, out-of-pocket expenses under the Montreal Convention. Ahh yes, the Montreal Convention, you may remember me touching upon this little gem in my earlier column on Space Tourism? Ok maybe not. Don’t worry, there will be no pop quiz here. Anyway, if the flight delay or cancellation caused you to either miss a night of pre-booked accommodation for example, or miss a concert you’d bought tickets to, or a day of car rental which you’d already paid for, then the MC allows you to get this back. No one wants to be delayed, it's never a pleasurable experience but with a little bit of knowledge then hopefully you can cushion that blow. And you might want to make the most of it, because outside of the EU it’s a different ball game. If you're travelling with a non-EU based airline flying from a non-EU destination, the airline doesn't have the same duty to look after you. They didn’t tell you that in the Brexit campaign now, did they? AM
'As a guide, the compensation ranges from €250 for more than 3 hours delay (up to 1500km flight distance) to €600 for more than 4 hours (and a distance of more than 3500km). If your flight is delayed for more than five hours you're entitled to choose between being rerouted on a different flight or getting a refund, just as if your flight had been cancelled.'
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The Essential Journal | Issue 48
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