THE
GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
THE REVIEW THE MCLAREN P1
MENSWEAR SPECIAL
SUMMER TRENDS
THE LIST
ALTHORPE ESTATE
THE CHILDHOOD HOME OF PRINCESS DIANA
BRITAIN’S MOST INFLUENCIAL MEN
THE PROFILE SIR JAMES GOLDSMITH
THE INTERVIEW WAR HORSE’S JEREMY IRVINE
WATCHES TIMELESS TIMEPIECES
SIR MICHAEL CAINE STYLE ICON
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THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
CONTENTS Jimmy Goldsmith
O
The
Headlines
Pg.47
ne of the most controversial businessmen of his time. We look at what those around him throught, his relationship with the press and what he did for Britain. Pg. 42 - Made in Britain
Timeless Watch Design
W
Pg. 34
ith more choice then ever when it comes to choosing a watch, we look a five designs that have stood the test of time and will continue to do so. Not only meaning that they will never go out of fashion, but that they are a wise investments too.
A Long Summer’s Day
W
Pg. 22
ith what looks like a quintessential English summer ahead, we went in search of the best British menswear brands and the perfect English afternoon.
McLaren P1
Pg. 64 - Best Roof-Top Bars
Pg. 74 - The 50 Most Influential Men
Pg. 82 - Fall Of The Hedgies Pg. 86
F
ollowing on from the successful MP412C, McLaren continues to push boundaries with the long-awaited McLaren P1. We take a look at this F1 inspired power machine. Pg. 110 - Althorpe House
W
hilst some areas of the UK housing market are showing week signs of growth, we delve into the mysterious world of county estate sales, finding out whose buying and the pros and cons of owing such a house.
On
the
Market
Front Cover Image © Brian Duffy
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Pg. 114
Pg. 126 - Jeremy Irvine Interview
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EDITOR’S LETTER
T
he Gentleman’s Journal’s editorial team has seen its inboxes bursting with announcements and news from new business start-ups, brands and investments over the last few months and, more evidently than ever before, a large proportion of these emails have had one thing in common. They are all pioneering British manufacturing. As the never-ending economic crisis still looms threateningly over one and all in the UK, it is perhaps surprising and hugely refreshing to see British heritage, over the past year, being made a priority; breaking through the dismal clouds and casting an optimistic light over Britain’s commercial industry. If anything should be promoted to keep our precious isle afloat, it is the manufacturing power that spreads across our nation, which is why we thought it timely to focus the crux of our first Summer Issue around the celebration of all things British. Flying the flag for Britain, at a time of almighty global growth and increasing international competition, has never been so important. More and more, Brits are appreciating and buying into the immortal words, ‘Made in Britain,’ but was does this label stand for? At present, many British companies are witnessing signs of growth. Britain has had a successful re-bound year across most industry categories. Not for a long time has the UK’s fashion industry been so successful. English leather companies, such as the much-revered Mulberry who is in the process of cutting the bow on a new factory that’ll sit on home turf, are experiencing increased demand, both from oversees and closer to home. Equally, British heritage brands are proving gold-dust abroad, particularly in China where quintessentially British Savile Row tailor Gieves & Hawkes have established half a dozen more stores than in the United Kingdom. To top off this widespread demand, British heritage brand Hackett’s future growth plans are concentrated on the Far East, India, South America and the Middle East (Pg 42). Even brands that were on the brink of collapse a few years ago, such as Jaguar, have released record high profits in the last year and continue to support over 10,000 jobs from its five sites in the Midlands and North West England. Meanwhile McLaren has made a stunning re-entry into the supercars and has just released its latest model, the McLaren P1, to much international acclaim (Pg 86). Small and previously underestimated manufacturers, such as English wine production, are also bringing in money, with some of our home-grown grapes matching those from
even the best French wine houses (Pg 90); these types of exports wouldn’t have caused an eyelid to bat a while ago, but they are now leading the way. When deciding on our profile piece for this issue, there was no shortage of individuals appropriate to cast a spotlight on. We wanted someone who had striven to make their mark on Britain in a pivotal way, which helped narrow down our options, a little at least. One head-strong personality came to mind almost immediately: Sir James Goldsmith. While his contribution to British businesses is one of unconventional force, having been known for collapsing businesses as well as for saving them, powerful words from his mouth gave strength to Britain’s independence and heritage in the latter years of his life. It was on the political stage that Jimmy really put up a fight for Britain in a cause that Emma Corbett delves into on page 47 when she responds to the question, ‘What did Jimmy do for Britain?’ Throughout this issue you will find a variety of strong-willed personalities making their mark on society and culture, to carve a sturdy profile for Britain on the global stage. Whether it’s producing the best acting talent like Jeremy Irvine on page 126, pioneering British produce at HIX Mayfair on page 54, or creating a global luxury brand using the most skilled craftsmen such as David Linley on page 72, it’s safe to say Britain still has it. The key message is that we may not be the emerging markets that dominates the headlines or be tipped as the next super power, but the fact still remains, Britain still matters and is one of the leading countries in which to do business. The problem that still remains is that we, the British, don’t always believe in our own capabilities. We should encourage those creating and innovating far more than we do. It’s our unique approach to innovation and creation that shall determine where Britain’s place in the world shall be in years to come. In the words of the great Briton himself, Winston Churchill, “Success is not final, failure is not fatal: it is the courage to continue that counts. | HARRY JARMAN
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THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
EDITORIAL
Harry Jarman Editor In Chief Finn Bruce Production Manager
Matthew Young Creative Director
Emma Corbett Managing Editor
Martin Turner Special Features Editor
Mr Merret Drinks Editor
Cole Simmons Fashion Editor
Charlotte Beale Features Writer
Lucy Cumming Culture Writer
Eliza Minto Features Writer
Jim Tobias Photographer
Milo Dickenson Art Editor
Rory Skeoch Videographer
George Askew Cars Editor
Francesca Fasan Stylist
Jonny Engstrom Hair Stylist
Amy Davies Make-up Artist
John Peveril Production Assistant
Bridget O’Keeffe Assistant Make-up Artist
For editorial enquiries please e-mail: editorial@thegentlemansjournal.co.uk For advertising enquiries please e-mail: advertising@thegentlemansjournal.co.uk Subscriptions are available by e-mailing: subscriptions@thegentlemansjournal.co.uk Fashion Shoot Products used: Dermalogica Skincare and MAC / Hair Styling from Guy Kremer Salon
THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL LIMITED THE CLUBHOUSE 11-14 GRAFTON STREET MAYFAIR LONDON W1S 4EW
@thegentsjournal
The Gentleman's Journal Limited cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited submissions, manuscripts and photographs. While every care is taken, prices and details are subject to change and The Gentleman's Journal Limited take no responsibility for omissions or errors. We reserve the right to publish and edit any letters. All rights reserved.
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All photos from Instagram - for more follow @thegentsjournal
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CONTRIBUTORS MILO DICKINSON Art Specialist
JIM TOBIAS Photographer
Jim Tobias is a freelance photographer based in London, 21 years old. Currently studying fashion photography at London College of Fashion, and has also previously attended the BA in Photojournalism at London College of Communication. Winner of second place in Saatchi Gallery Art Prize in 2010. Educated at Hurtwood house Surrey. Jim has also have been working in connection with the music industry, tour managing and as a film maker/band photographer. See Jim’s outstanding contribution on page 22.
Milo Dickinson is the Junior Specialist of Early European Sculpture at Christie’s London. During his studies of History of Art and Museum Studies at the University of Leeds he became a country house junkie and obsessive collector. He has visited the great and the good of European museums and has a particular interest in Florentine Renaissance art and the historic collections of Britain. At Christie’s he was involved in the extraordinary exhibition of Hubert Givenchy’s evocation of the famed Galerie de Girardon in Paris. Milo tells of his experience collecting British art on page 70 .
TANYA ROSE
Luxury Travel Specialist Seeing a niche in the travel market, Tanya founded Mason Rose in 1993, one of the only agencies offering integrated services to the luxury travel industry. Prior to founding Mason Rose, Tanya was Director of Sales & Marketing for The Savoy Group in London before that launched Paris’ St James’s Club. Tanya is one of the foremost authorities in luxury travel, recognised across multiple business sectors, including a nomination for the Women of the Year Awards. Tanya and Martin Turner report on the Britain’s hottest travel spots for weekend summer breaks on page 58.
ROBERT DUBSKY Yacht Specialist
OLIVER GLADWIN
Head Chef and Co-Founder of The Shed in Notting Hill One brother in the Gladwin trio behind the much celebrated The Shed restaurant in Notting Hill, Head Chef Oliver has quite a line of equally reputed restaurants behind him, including Oxo Tower, Launceston Place, Just St James, and River Cottage HQ. The latest face on the fine dining scene, on pages 98 and 99 Oliver re-interprets the traditional British BBQ to give you an exciting twist on our favourite summer food. All you have to do is get the griddle going. See what Oliver is cooking up on page 92.
Robert Dubsky heads up “Yacht Masters” a bespoke yacht brokerage he started in 2009. As a leading broker with some 15 years experience, and an ex-director of Cavendish White, his team specialises in the sale, charter and new construction of super yachts worldwide. Yacht Masters has earned its reputation as being a more intimate broker, offering a professional and discreet service to all of their clients. They recognise the importance of trust, ongoing relationships and knowledge, and have reintroduced the traditional British face to face way of doing business.
DAVID LINLEY
Luxury Interior Specialist David Linley founded his eponymous business in 1985 with the aim of designing and manufacturing furniture of the highest quality. Some 28 years on, the now well established British design company LINLEY enjoys prominence as both a retail and bespoke business specializing in the design and production of furniture, upholstery, interiors and home accessories of a superlative quality. Over the years, LINLEY has developed an international reputation for creating furniture and accessories that represent British craftsmanship at its very best. David takes us through his prized things on page 72.
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Style Icon SIR
MICHAEL CAINE CBE
Twelve times award winning British actor and writer Sir Michael Caine is a seminal British figure of the 60s and 70s, not least for his roles in the generation’s blockbuster classics, Zulu, Get Carter, Alfie and, most notably, The Italian Job, but also for his widely iconic style which has kept its touch equally well offscreen as it has on-screen, in over the 100 roles he has played.
A
lthough Caine’s effortless appearance gives the impression that having a sense of style comes easily to him, as if second-nature, he openly admits that his panache emanates from a very distinct, ‘life-changing’ moment that took place the day his then flat-mate, the also impeccably dressed, Terence Stamp, introduced him to the man who would come to be his star equivalent of the tailoring industry, Douglas Hayward. After his first bespoke suit, Caine became a loyal admirer and fan of his work and within a few months every actor worth knowing followed. Hayward’s store in Mayfair became a magnet for the rich and famous. Caine went to Hayward for all of his suits without fail and the pair formed a very strong friendship that would grow throughout both of their careers, with Caine apparently basing his role as Alfie on Dougie himself.
“I DIDN’T HAVE ENOUGH MONEY FOR A REALLY GOOD SUIT FOR A LONG TIME, BUT AS SOON AS I STARTED MAKING MONEY I BOUGHT TWO SUITS THAT CHANGED MY LIFE.”
It was Hayward who cut Caine’s infamous beige linen suit in The Italian Job and Hayward who tailored Caine’s equally credited white suit in Dirty Rotten Scoundrels. It was also Hayward who tailored all of Roger Moore’s suits and set the benchmark of Bond’s style for years to come. To put it simply, a Dougie Hayward suit was the must-have for gents in the Swinging Sixties. Together, Hayward and Caine stood at the vanguard of the egalitarian London vibe, fashioning a fuss-free, understated style that swayed away from the dandy looks coming out of Savile Row at the time. As Hayward affirmed, he ‘didn’t want his customers to look like they had just come off their yachts,’ pioneering an ageless style that today represents pure British tailoring at its best.
True to Hayward, Caine oozed gentlemanly distinction wearing low-buttoning coats with broad lapels, crisp white collar dress shirts, skinny black ties, shiny loafers and, most distinctly, close-fitted blazers that, as Caine recalls, ‘made you lose ten or twelve pounds instantly.’ With a penchant for fine details, Caine’s personal style touches are easily distinguished by the coveted accessories he donned which included his thick-rimmed black spectacles, stand-out cufflinks and patterned cravats. Today, his slicked-back blond waves have retreated to a thinning silver hairline, but his chiseled looks and piecing gaze still hold firm. Spotted wearing a black on black suit/shirt combination this year at his 80th birthday celebration, Caine proved that his natural eye for style still remains and he continues to be a mainstay on the best-dressed lists. Our recommendation is simple: make your way to 95 Mount Street, Mayfair. Hayward will not be there, but his tailoring traditions will and Caine still wears his suits.
Broadgate Double Breasted Jacket. £450. aquascutum.co.uk. Slim Silk-Grenadine Tie. £95. mrporter.com. Original Wayfarer Black Rim Glasses. £POA ray-ban.com.
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Our Summer Trends There’s no talk of soaring summer temperatures but as we begin to get our share of UV, it’s time to prepare your wardrobe for a season of style. Get the BBQ back in the limelight and pack away your chunky cable knits as we give you the essential attire to welcome the sunshine. First up, it’s game on with the iconic baseball bomber. Keep to the contrast sleeves and brushed wool but for a punchy day look Burberry have gone electric with purples and azure. We all know too well that you need staple layers in Britain. Our choices to beat the 8pm sunset chill are an indigo shirt, the older more sophisticated brother of the faded washed out variety, and a perfect pullover, with a round neck in thin, fleece-lined jersey. Stripes are everywhere in 2013 and we say the more the better, vertical or horizontal, from sailing to rugby; make sure you experiment. Tommy Hilfiger has expertly updated its polo with exquisite detailing and block stripes, a winning summer staple. As Londoners and city lovers revel in the late blossom of spring, we see pastel colours return with a more preppy vengeance; think tailored cotton blazer à la Hackett. If you ponder on summer accessories or want to make an outfit pop for a special occasion, we say go for a floral tie, previously for the daring but now you can look sharp with a retro Liberty print version. You’re probably wondering what about the beach? Well, this season swim shorts are fashionable and comfortable at mid length; think wave rider meets Daniel Craig. For shades, update your classic aviator with a modern, matt pair from a more exclusive luxury brand, our pick is New York’s Illesteva. Carry all your goods in a backpack, but the schoolboy version is no longer. Instead, go for canvas with leather details, rustic and adventurous even in the City.
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Linen Shirts
6.
1: Richard James - £135 richardjames.co.uk 2: Budd - £165 buddshirts.com 3: Hartford - £115 mrporter.com 4: Orlebar Brown - £120 orlebarbrown.co.uk 5: J Crew - £80 mrporter.com 6: Slowear - £140 mrporter.com
1.
5.
2.
4. 3.
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Colourful Chinos 1: Tommy Hilfiger - £85 tommy.com 2: Ralph Lauren - £125 ralphlauren.co.uk 3: Hackett - £130 hackett.com 4: Paul Smith - £140 PS by Paul Smith mrporter.com 5: Hackett - £125 hackett.com
1.
SUNGLASSES 3.
2.
4.
5.
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Driving Shoes
1: The Original Car Shoe - £240 carshoe.com 2: Swims - £105 swims.com 3: Jimmy Choo - £295 jimmychoo.com 4: Tods - £240 tods.com 5: Russell & Bromley - £145 russellandbromley.co.uk 6: The Original Car Shoe - £240 carshoe.com
SWIM SHORTS 1.
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LINEN SHIRTS 1. 2.
3.
4.
Summer Polos
1: Tommy Hilfiger - £70 tommy.com 2: Burberry London - £250 mrporter.com 3: Loro Piana - £245 mrporter.com 4: Canali - £160 canali.com
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1.
2.
3.
CHINO SHORTS 4. 5. 6.
7.
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1: Harry Elliot - £59 harryelliot.co.uk 2: Love Brand & Co - £119 lovebrand.com 3: Hartford - £100 mrporter.com 4: Chucs - £145 chucs.com 5: Paul Smith - £89 paulsmith.com 6: Tommy Hilfiger - £60 tommy.com 7: Vilbrequin - £140 vilbrequin.com
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4.
1.
?
2.
5.
Iconic Shades 3.
1: Ray Ban - £120 ray-ban.com 2: Persol - £215 persol.com 3: Cutler & Gross - £310 cutlerandgross.com 4: Ray Ban Wayfarers - £120 ray-ban.com 5: Cutler & Gross - £310 cutlerandgross.com 6: Illesteva - £130 mrporter.com
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A _ S U M M
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Models: Supplied by Nevs, First & Gingersnap : Aleksy Komorowski Carlosa Freire Rob Green Georgie Drake Nicole K
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E R S _ D A Y THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
Photographer : Jim Tobias Videographer : Rory Skeoch Stylist : Francesca Fassan Makeup : Amy Williams & Bridget O’Keefe Hair : Jonny Engstrom
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(From L to R) Trousers - Hackett | Jacket - Thomas Pink | Shirt - Budd | Shoes - Herring Shoes Suit - Gieve’s & Hawks | Shirt, Tie & Silk handkerchief - Budd | Shoes - Herring Shoes Shirt - Zoë Jordan (Start-london.com) | Blouse - Mr. Start Woman | Sunglasses - Persol | Pumps - Russell and Bromley
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Trousers - Hackett | Shirt - Paul Smith | Jumper - Sunspel | Driving Shoes - Car Shoe 26
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(From L to R) Linen - Shirt John Vatos | Short - Hartford | Sunglases - Persol Dress - Sister by Sibling | Shoes - Russell & Bromley Vest - Wrap London | Shirt - Mr. Start Woman | Trousers - Zoë Jordan | Brogues - Grenson | Socks - Tabio Polo Shirt - Sunspel | Shorts - Hartford | Boots - Grenson | Socks - Emmett | Sunglasses - Ray Ban www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Summer 2013
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(From L to R) Shirt - American Retro | Shorts - Kookai | Sandals - Russell and Bromley | Hat -Neighbourhood Technical Apparel Shirt - Thomas Pink | Trousers - Hackett | Boots - Grenson Top - Burberry | Trousers - Paul Smith | Shoes - Russell and Bromley Dress - Francesco Simeti with Mother of Pearl | Scarf - Vintage | Sunglasses - Sunettes (Liberty) | Boots - Grenson Shirt - Richard James | Trousers - Hackett | Shoe - Car Shoe 28
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(From L to R) Swimsuit - Melissa Odabash | Necklace - Vintage Swimsuit, Sun Hat & Sarong - Melissa Odabash Swim Shorts - Harry Elliot | Sunglasses - Persol Swim Shorts - Chucs | Shirt - Pink | Sunglasses - Paul Smith Swim Shorts - Love Brand www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Summer 2013
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(From L to R) Dress - Stella McCartney | Shoes - Russell and Bromley | Necklace - Mawi Shirt - Pocket Gieve &Square: Hawks |Gieves Trousers - The Kooples Shoes - Grenson Shirt: Ralph Lauren, Blazer (top picture): Gieves & Hawkes, & Hawkes, Braces:| Thomas Pink, Dress - Vivienne Westwood | Shoes - Opening Ceremony | Bangle - 1Bromley, Mawi | Bangle - Calvin Klein Jewellery Trousers: Anglomania Gieves & Hawkes – White Chinos, Shoes: Russell and Tie: Drakes
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youtube.com/thegentlemansjournal Join the GJ team Behind-the-scenes on this fashion shoot Subscribe for Free to the GJTV Youtube Channel for more interesting videos. @thegentsjournal
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GROOMN IG
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TOP PICKS OF THE SEASON
SUMMER AFTERSHAVES FACT_
TIP 1:
There are some 40 million sensory receptors in your nose alone, each with the primary function of carrying information directly to your brain, which is why picking the right scent is vital to maintaining your appeal this summer.
As with fashion, the fragrance industry has its own seasonal cycles so you need to treat scents as you do your clothing style you wouldn’t step out in a heavy, dark, wool sweater in the height of summer so why sport the same cologne throughout the year? Ditch the robust, bolder, richer olfactory experience of your wintery Tom Ford Italian Cypress and refresh your style with one of our recommended British summer fragrances. Floris fragrance expert, Shelagh Foyle advises to “steer away from spicy, woody and musky notes and look out for scents that make you think of the outdoors with notes of citrus bergamot and green mandarin.”
TIP 2: “Whatever design you opt for, be generous with your spritzing as the summer heat will disperse the fragrance faster and ensure longevity throughout the day.” We’d recommend purchasing the bottle in both cologne and eau de toilette concentrations. Start the day with a splash of the bolder eau de toilette and top up later in the day with the lighter cologne for a boost. “For best results, spray twice either side of your neck and chest and on both wrists,” says Shelagh, “fragrances work best on hydrated skin so prepare the body by washing with a moisturising shower gel.”
Burberry Classic Summer Eau de Toilette, £42, burberry.com Floris London, JF Eau de Toilette, £75, florislondon.com Penhaligon’s, Sartorial, £85, penhaligons.com Dunhill 51.3 N, £42.00, dunhillfragrances.com
The Tools
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refresh your style with one oF our recommended British summer fragrances
TIP 3: Finally, don’t completely abandon your winter scent, simply store in a cool, dry place away from sunlight for revival next winter.
THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
HOW TO
TAN LIKE A MAN*
ll the special lotions and potions geared towards achieving the perfect tan can, we admit, make the whole business seem overly fussy. For the majority of gents, achieving an even, glowing tan is more of a bonus than the outcome of a carefully planned out sun-worshipping affair; a squeeze of sun-cream in the morning is about as far as our sun routine goes. However, grooming expectations are changing, with the modern man fast-becoming more image conscious by the day, which means it is time to let go of the stigma associated with overt grooming and approach tanning with a little more flair. Let’s face it, looking like a lobster fresh out of Maine is not a good look, nor are dark sun spots, lurid tanning lines or - the sin of all tanning sins - a botched attempt at, dare we say it, fake tanning. To combat this, all you have to do is follow four simple steps and take note of our five recommended products and we guarantee you will step back on home turf with an attractive, natural glow that’ll turn the attention back on to you.
INTRODUCTION
A
GROOMN IG
# STEP 1: Prime
# STEP 2: Protect
Proper pre-sun exfoliation is essential for maintaining a good tan. Scrubbing away the dead skin cells preps skin for tanning by exposing fresh ones better prepared for exposure, which will keep your colour looking fresher for longer.
You may mock, but the reason your girlfriend applies an SPF before hitting the sun lounger is because skin is vulnerable to harmful UV rays. Applying sun cream won’t stop you from tanning, in fact it guarantees a healthy colour. Don’t go any lower than factor 30 on your face and opt for 20 on your body, going no lower than SPF 15 to help skin regenerate faster and stay protected; a better option than searing yourself for an hour and then feeling sorry for yourself in the shade. Be sure to re-apply sun cream after every swim.
# STEP 3: Preserve
# STEP 4: Pretend
After-sun lotion is essentially a light moisturiser enriched with ingredients to cool, soothe and reduce the impact of free radicals (atoms with unpaired electrons that can damage skin cells). Look out for products containing vitamins A and C, and aloe vera which will help diminish signs of aging and let skin repair itself. Load it on in the evenings after a cool shower and be sure to wash it off in the morning before hitting the lounger again.
It’s a fact that 90% of British men would like to look good without looking like they've tried too hard so it is important to be au fait with this last step because fake tanning is a pretty risky business. We’re not saying this path of trickery is for everyone but, if you are going to take it, you need to be fully in the know.
The Tools
R O F EN M
We’ve all seen it go horribly wrong, just check out Bradley Cooper at the premiere of Valentine’s Day. However, when applied properly, fake tanning will help prolong that treasured holiday tan. Opt for one of a new wave of self-tanning treatments designed specifically for men. A fake tan that goes unnoticed means you’ve achieved the perfect glow so, for a safe, subtle approach, we recommend mixing a little nonstreak bronzing moisturiser with a blob of your regular moisturiser to achieve a consistent, subtle, streak-free coverage.
ClarinsMen Exfoliating Cleanser £20 clarins.ca Clinique Body Cream SPF30 £18.50 johnlewis.com BB Tinted Moisturizer £32 labseries. com Sisley Fluid Body Sun Cream SPF 30 £82.50 selfridges.com Biotherm After Sun Oligo – Thermal Milk £18.50 biotherm.co.uk www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Summer 2013
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TIMELESS TIMEPIECES Sometimes the most desirable watches are those which have stood the test of time. The Journal picks 5 watches that are truely timeless.
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Rolex Submariner The Watch Gallery www.thewatchgallery.co.uk £5,000
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Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5123R in 18K rose gold, with dark brown alligator strap. Patek Philippe at Boodles, 1 Sloane Street, London, SW1X 9LA 020 7235 0111 www.patek.com £18,060
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Breitling Navitimer 01 in stainless steel www.breitling.com 020 7637 5167 £5,760
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IWC Portuguese Hand Wound Eight Days in stainless steel The Watch Gallery www.thewatchgallery.co.uk £7,900
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Chopard Mille Miglia from the Classic Racing Collection in rose gold with an automatic movement and COSC certified Chopard boutique 12 New Bond Street London W1S 3SS Tel: 020 7409 3140 £13,480
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{ Hackett JEREMY
T
he quintessentially British brand has been flying the Union Jack with pride for many years and was last year honoured by the Queen in her Jubilee year with a Queen’s Award for Enterprise in International Trade. As the company has grown, Hackett’s commercial success has been linked to the export of its ‘Essentially British’ heritage to countries around the world. Jeremy and his co-founder, Ashley Lloyd-Jennings started out selling clothing from a stall in Portobello market and bought their first shop on ‘the wrong end’ of the King’s Road with £1000 each out of their own pockets. Today the Hackett brand is recognised as being synonymous with style in twenty-four countries globally and has a total of eighty-one stores. In the UK they are recognised as the leading brand for stylish gentleman’s attire, with a permanent presence at London Collections. We interviewed co-founder Jeremy Hackett during Men’s Collection last month to find out what he thinks about the modern gents of today, what big plans he has for the brand and what being British means to him. What iconic British item should every gentleman own? A navy blazer Which style icon to you personifies British style and why? Charley Watts, the drummer in The Rolling Stones. Even from the early 1960s it is quite apparent that he dressed for himself regardless of what the rest of the band was wearing. He is obviously a man who cares about his clothes and is always dressed in an effortlessly stylish manner that reflects his personality; I have noticed that he always wears good shoes - a clear sign of dressing well in my mind. How is Hackett developing in line with changing consumer demand, technology and retailing?
digital channels to communicate with our customers including shopping online and of course my very own blog, Mr Classic. What are the three top priorities for the brand over the next 10 years? A. Maintaining our point of view B. Ongoing development of product C. Continuing to explore new and emerging markets. What has been the brand’s proudest moment since it was founded it in
1983?
For me it was the successful transition in 1987 from second hand clothes to new products. That was the moment I realised I had the potential to create a brand. Men’s Collection has just taken place, what was the inspiration behind Hackett’s line this season?
“FOR US IT IS ALL ABOUT 50s AND 60s TAILORING; SOPHISTICATED,
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We have been inspired by James Bond, the Thomas Crown Affair and the graphic images of the French 1950s illustrator Gruau to convey a sophisticated, elegant and modern interpretation of those iconic times. Besides Hackett, which British designers did you have your eye on at
Men’s Collection and why?
I would like to see the Topman show as I am sure it will be exciting and innovative, and of course it’s always good to keep abreast of what the guys on Savile Row are up to.
SUBTLE AND
What iconic trends from the past were revived and re-imagined on the catwalk this time round?
SHARP”
For us it is all about 50s and 60s tailoring, sophisticated, subtle and sharp.
We have embraced social media and other
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What are your tips for accessorising in the summer? For SS14 we have been inspired by 1920 geometrics in soft hues and pastel colours.
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What items would you recommend from Hackett’s Spring/Summer collection for holiday wear? Our washed linen shirts, elegant satin cotton chinos with slim coloured suede belts and suede loafers would definitely be on my list. How did it feel to win the Queen’s Award for Enterprise in International Trade last year? It was an honour to receive the Queen’s Award and quite unexpected. Awards such as this help enormously in creating added credibility for the brand, particularly when operating in new territories. What does the tagline ‘Made in Britain’ stand for to you today and how important is it in today’s society?
Selling product abroad ‘The Made in Britain’ label adds a certain caché. Where we can, we support British Manufacturing but sometimes the skills required are no longer there and as we operate in a global environment the ‘Made in Italy’ label is also of considerable worth. Hackett is heavily involved in sponsoring British sports, what events will you be attending this year? We have recently taken on the sponsorship of British Polo Day so I shall be travelling to events not only in England but South Africa, India, China, and Russia. I shall also attend Henley Regatta where we support London Rowing Club. As a long term sponsor of Aston Martin Racing I would like to go to Le Mans to see them race but really I should at some point over the summer put in an appearance at the office! How are you planning to grow Hackett as a British brand globally? The brand has grown significantly in the last seven years particularly in Europe. So we shall be concentrating our efforts in the Far East and continue to grow our business in India, South America and the Middle East. There is a healthy appetite for British Heritage and lifestyle that we aim to maximise over the coming years. Hackett Suede Driver Loafer, £140 Duck Lightweight Jacket, £350 Oxford Amalfi Shorts, £115
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made
in
BRITAIN { OPEN FOR }
Business
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| CHARLOTTE BEALE
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T
he world’s eyes, as we all know, were on London last summer. Danny Boyle’s Olympic Opening Ceremony showed the world that London can really pull it off on the global stage – but also reminded natives and foreigners alike that Britain was once the engine room of the world. Before cotton was imported from China, it was woven in Yorkshire; the frenzy for manufacturing that in our lifetimes is associated with the East, was, firstly, a truly British-driven phenomenon. So what now? Well, a couple of centuries on, there is a new drive to get British manufacturing underway again. Canny operators, both within the government and without, used the wind of 2012 in their sails to persuade us that Britain can once again excel in the field. Sir Paul Smith lent his sway to a conference in November 2012, ‘A New Dawn: Rebuilding UK Textile Manufacturing’, one of several initiatives with the backing of Vince Cable to support on-shore production; ‘Make It In Great Britain’ was another, which culminated with a retrospective showcase at The Science Museum of some of the past triumphs of British factories.
“ Provenance is Common People’s calling card ” Mulberry is one venerable firm picking up the baton; they are opening their second British factory, The Willows, this November in Somerset. A local college, Bridgwater College, will be a major source of employees, and is co-operating with Mulberry to design an apprenticeship scheme to ensure that local young people fill up some of the 300-odd new jobs at The Willows. Indeed, Mulberry is not alone among established British brands operating factories on home territory; Burberry has a plant in Yorkshire, Barbour in South Shields, and Johnston’s in Elgin. But talk to any independent manufacturer looking to supply the British fashion market, and you’ll hear the same story; factories setting up shop here is only half the deal. Brands have to begin ordering from them to get this much-vaunted rejuvenation underway, as Eric Musgrave recently pointed out in an astute analysis in View 2. As far as building a profile in the fashion world goes - an industry so reliant on building visible and desirable
brands - British manufacturing has a long road ahead in publicising itself. In response to this dearth of knowledge among the fashion world about where and how designers can get their goods made in old Blighty, The UK Fashion and Textile Association has set up an online directory, Let’s Make It Here. It aims to ‘make it as easy as possible for interested parties to locate the many firms that are still producing in the UK.’ Similarly, the Designer-Manufacturer Innovation Support Centre (DISC) exists solely to enable London Fashion Week designers to source British manufacturers. Natalie Massenet, on her appointment as Chairman of the British Fashion Council in January, immediately ordered a survey to ‘understand the scope of businesses in London’ and improve the way the BFC engages with them to help overcome challenges. Massenet’s evident drive to make the BFC a more powerful platform and medium through which designers might engage with UK-based industry is heartening.
Such platforms may have been built, but the hard work of persuading brands to choose British suppliers over their more competitive foreign counterparts must follow. Or, some manufacturers decided, why not cut out the wholesale stage (and the accompanying reduction in margin), and retail themselves? This is the logic behind two separate British menswear brands which Musgrave investigated: Common People and Cro’Jack, both partnerships between manufacturers and fashion people. ‘Provenance’ is Common People’s calling card, with all their materials diligently sourced, and Cro’Jack has a factory in the Midlands employing over 180 people. Manufacturers increasingly having their own retail brands combats the principal obstacle to the growth of British suppliers: price. The small scale on which most British textile factories currently work mean that the prices are driven very high. Consequently, for designers, sourcing from British factories is perceived as only for premium brands.
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“our men and women need to ENCOURAGE labels to use their homeland manufacturers” There are some promising signs though. British companies are increasingly choosing to source from home; in the past 12 months, Topshop has increased orders from British factories by 60%. Labour in the Far East isn’t as cheap as it used to be, and when quality is of the utmost importance to a brand, it certainly is inviting to have your stock being stitched together just down the road. Holland & Holland is one company whose suppliers really do roam the British Isles. “We have suppliers all over the country”, Niels van Rooyen, their Creative Director, tells me proudly; “leather from Carlisle, shirts made in London by a factory over a century old, and tweeds from Scotland”. When pressure on prices is less, designers veer more readily to picking British manufacturers to cobble together their wares. The menswear London Fashion Week as a whole is riding high; two of the kings of the market have moved their shows to the city – Tom Ford and Alexander McQueen. With London Collections: Men as the BFC’s bold new menswear showcase, London is becoming known as the single capital to rely on for producing dynamic menswear talent. Natalie Massenet emphasised to the Editor of this magazine London Collections: Men’s recent ascent to ‘one of the strongest menswear showcases in the world’, and as evidence repeated the sentiments of Stateside buyer Linda Fargo of Bergdorf Goodman that LFW is now a “do-not-miss opportunity”. Despite Fargo’s assertion that London riding high is ‘not just because Burberry’s been anchoring the shows there’, her thoughts are most visibly reflected in the 44
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established end of the market. Burberry opened its first menswear-only store in London in October 2012. The label offers its own take on how fashion can borrow from technology, with a state-of-the-art store experience. As Christopher Bailey told the Financial Times, Burberry has adapted the inclusivity technology offers, while negotiating the Steve Jobs- Mark Zuckerberg t-shirt-hoodie ensemble and defining its own, sharp, British look against that. ‘Anti-exclusivity’ exclusivity Bailey likes to call it; however up-to-theminute you repackage it, it’s a Britishheritage style. While Bergdorf Goodman and other Big Apple emporiums might be falling for London’s luxury offerings, nobody loves luxury like the wealthy Chinese love luxury. A presence for a British brand in the Asian market means the volume of garments shifted are high, too. Snapped up by Li Fung, a Chinese consumer goods giant in 2011, the Savile Row tailor Gieves & Hawkes now has 100 outlets in China compared to a paltry 14 in its homeland. Bosideng, a Chinese designer,
LONDON IS BECOMING KNOWN AS THE SINGLE CAPITAL TO RELY ON FOR PRODUCING DYNAMIC MENSWEAR
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has opened a £35m store in Central London. With most of the shoppers in Bosideng London being Chinese, the label isn’t aiming for British custom, but British caché. Compared to Chinese manufacturers adept at high-volume, pacy manufacture, the perception of quality that comes with long-standing British labels is of high value. Niels van Rooyen of Holland & Holland tells me ‘our Chinese customer base is growing too, although North America is still our largest market.’ The Yank isn’t averse either, as any Brit in the States will witness, to rhapsodising about the value of old-school British tradition. Van Rooyen’s ready elaboration about Holland & Holland’s own tweed, the Harris Holland (so called after the founder) proves the pitch-perfect combination of esoteric detail and history to woo the foreign buyer. It’s exactly the fabric’s history, van Rooyen agrees, which drives its high popularity. Brits have always been good at helping others of their kind out – witness the old boys’ network. To ensure that the British menswear industry really capitalizes on the brand inherent in its nationality, our men and women need to encourage labels to use their homeland manufacturers. Supportive collectives are already springing up, including Fashion East, London Collections, and the DISC, and are well supported by the tradition of the 300-year-old Livery Guilds who organized the ‘A New Dawn’ conference. But it is increasingly imperative to re-establish those ties between designers and makers. With the luxury goods market in BRICS exploding, the opportunities at stake are immeasurable. With a bit more blood, sweat, toil and tears (none on the clothes, please), it could well be the factories of the shires, not of Xinjiang, which reap the benefits. | CHARLOTTE BEALE
LON
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WHAT DID JIMMY DO FOR BRITAIN?
JIMMY
GOLDSMITH SIR
THIS IS A REALLY BIG BATTLE BUT IT IS WORTH THE FIGHT -J.G.
Two months before James Goldsmith’s death at the age of 64, Vanity Fair described him as ‘a high-flying financial buccaneer, crusading politician and famously unconventional family man’. Seventeen years on, we get under the surface of this provocative figure whose actions still send a tremor through British politics, business and society today.
K
nown to friends and family as ‘Jimmy’, Goldsmith lived a very open life with few inhibitions in place to shield his private life from the omnipresent ears of the media. Many in Britain, from fellow businessmen to politicians, high society women and journalists, to the average Joe on the street, held strong opinions on how Jimmy manoeuvred his way through the many paths and pitfalls of his personal, political and professional life. For Goldsmith, getting a reaction out of people whether positive or not, enhanced, rather than diminished his ambitions and spurred him on to achieve further success. Whether this open lifestyle chose him or he chose it is hard to say, but whatever the rumours were, whether far-fetched, ridiculous, distasteful or shocking, public speculation about his life often proved to be true. As an obstinate businessman, Goldsmith was largely unaffected by and accepting of peoples’ judgement of him, openly remarking on one occasion to an interviewer, “All establishments—industrial, political, bureaucratic—don’t like me (…) I reject most of the bases everyone else is working from, so I can’t expect to be popular.” As expected, for a man who dipped his fingers into so many different pies, Jimmy’s closet is filled with its fair share
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“HE DESTROYED AND SAVED BUSINESSES TO CARVE A UNIQUE PATH IN THE WORLD”
of accusations, rumours and tales, some of which still remain unresolved in the eyes of the public and the media, while many stand confirmed. There is, of course, the unsettled controversy surrounding the disappearance of the 7th Earl of Lucan which got pretty nasty and the legal battle Goldsmith waged against Private Eye. Dig around deeper and you’ll uncover stories about his controversial love affairs, from which he had eight children from four separate women. These, coming from a man who was quoted as saying,
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‘When a man marries his mistress, he creates a vacancy,’ are less easy to shake off. Probe a little more and you’ll find plenty of tall stories and half truths about his corporate raiding blitzes and misogynistic character, all of which kept the media on tenterhooks. As with any public figure, the line between whether the many stories that hit the headlines are real, speculated or completely fabricated leaves Jimmy’s life very much obscured by layer upon layer of carefully construed and misconstrued allegations. Although these accusations are all very juicy to delve into, what is the point in speculating further about already over-speculated stories? Controversies aside, we don’t want to scavenge around for faults in his life. Instead, we want to explore a cause that Jimmy himself strove very passionately to publicise in his later years and, in doing so, uncover what the man, who was knighted in 1976 in Harold Wilson’s Resignation Honours, dubbed the “Lavender List,” really did for Britain. Despite the negativity from the press which dogged Jimmy’s media profile for much of his life, the publicity that surrounded him clearly reinforced the mesmeric control he had over everyone, whether they had come face-to-face with him or not. He enchanted and insulted women, angered and supported politicians, despised and sought the media, and destroyed and saved businesses to carve a unique path in the world. Those who scorned
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him and deprecated him, including the then current Prime Minister, John Major, who described him as ‘living in cloudcuckoo-land’, responded to his ways and in doing so fuelled fascination with him on a global scale. James Goldsmith set the world alight from an early age and endured to preserve his complex hold over the world up until his very last breath. He passed away in 1997 with decades of hostile press coverage behind him, yet after his death, when the threat of his unconventional actions had dissolved, both those in his firing line and those closest to him looked back and remembered him as one of the most deeply passionate and optimistic men; a man who strove to make a long-lasting impact on British politics, business and society in many ways. In the words of two of them: “Jimmy Goldsmith was one of the most powerful and dynamic personalities that this generation has seen (…) He was enormously generous, and fiercely loyal to the causes he espoused.” - Former Prime Minister, Lady Margaret Thatcher “There are few men that one can truly describe as a lion of a man. He was one,” he said. “He had courage, ability, determination, kindness. He had the ability to climb the mountain and come down safely on the other side.” - Business tycoon Peter de Savary, a long-time friend of Sir James. Both these comments have something in common; they toast Jimmy’s headstrong, dynamic character. Looking back at his childhood, it easy to see that these admired characteristics developed at a young age. James Michael Goldsmith was born in 1933 in Paris to a Catholic French mother and a German Jewish father who moved to Britain. His father was a grand hotelier, a Conservative Member of Parliament and ubiquitous social figure of the inter-war era. Jimmy grew up in the spotlight of the gilded world of his father’s successful hotel business. Like many successful businessmen who preceded him and would come to follow him, Jimmy developed a reputation as a child for being disinterested in education, and showed early seeds of a defiant attitude, even when faced with the prospect of failure or punishment. While studying at school he developed a very nonchalant, stubborn attitude towards life, on one occasion refusing to run in a competitive cross-country race because he
transparent his way of thinking really was. After all, this opposing rebellious stance that crossed convention in his early years is what later drove the major decisions he made throughout his professional and brief political career, securing him his billions.
“THERE ARE FEW MEN THAT ONE CAN TRULY DESCRIBE AS A LION OF A MAN. HE WAS ONE.” thought running was beneath him, opting instead to walk the race. A few years on, Jimmy’s intolerance towards education was summed up in a speech he made at the age of sixteen to his boarding house mates in which he stated, “A man of means should not remain a schoolboy.” The same defiant attitude also drove him to run away from St. Andrew’s College in Toronto at the age of ten to New York City where he checked himself into the Waldorf Astoria, only to be tracked down by his parents a few days later. If Jimmy wasn’t in the position of leading a race, he would revert, as if by natural default, to the opportunity of leading the revolt against the race. The more you learn about his life and apply this conclusion to the decisions he made, the more you come to realise just how
The money started rolling in when he hit the gambling scene hard and with success, whilst still at Eton. While his father’s vision for him was to become a true gentleman, Jimmy’s chief occupation, whilst studying at the prestigious college, was betting on horses. His books were of a different nature from his school mates. On a much recalled occasion, he invested £10 on a three-horse accumulator at Lewes and won himself £8,000; an almighty sum of money for the day. Not much longer after this happened he checked himself out of the institution and fell almost straight into another, The Royal Artillery, after a hazy spell of months spent gambling his money away and romancing girls in Oxford. Surprisingly, Jimmy adapted well to the rigours of National Service and came out with a commission. His next goal was to shake up and conquer the world of business. In 1955 he founded Laboratoires Cassene, a French pharmaceutical manufacturing company, but he was more of a gambler than industrialist and he came very close to bankruptcy. In 1957 he was forced to sell his company but he remained in the same line of business, becoming more fiscally conservative. His new French companies grew into a profitable pharmaceutical chain and with the help of banker Selim Zilkha, he founded Ward Casson Ltd in Britain along similar lines. Goldsmith succeeded largely by selling a popular slimming product, a self-tanning lotion, a disinfectant, and lower-priced antibiotics, and by making other health products widely available and cheaper. He then started Cavenham Foods Ltd, a grocery distribution company, as well as buying the rights to some of Britain’s most popular food brand names. In 1971 he succeeded in a hostile takeover of Bovril, a long established British food company and this proved to be a turning point in his career. The takeover followed a bitter fight which antagonised London’s financial elite. Goldsmith had to offer increasing higher bids to win and consequently incurred a large debt. This didn’t matter because he made great profits with his
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restructuring and selling of Bovril’s subsidiaries. With the deal he had earned his reputation for financial expertise but it did not endear him to the establishment. Goldsmith began dealing through private companies registered in the UK and abroad as journalists began to question his techniques of dealing with the funds and assets of publicly quoted companies. These included the French company Générale Occidentale and Hong Kong and then Cayman-registered General Oriental Investments. He continued to expand within the British food industry and then turned his attention to the United States where he announced that Cavenham Holdings had gained control of America’s tenth largest supermarket chain for $62 million. Goldsmith took advantage of the 1980s financial boom and pursued corporate
the market plunged. “I am, if you like, a Cassandra,” he once said. “I have always looked at the downside because the upside looks after itself.” Jimmy had a passion and talent for setting up new projects and alliances, whether in business, politics, his family life or his social life. However, to Jimmy starting up something, didn’t just mean launching something new, rather whatever he set up would always be executed as a reaction against something. If someone was doing one thing, he wouldn’t necessarily do the other thing, but set something up that was better and more powerful, which meant he rubbed a good many people up the wrong way and, in doing so, turned his back on a lot of high-profile people with little care and a lot of grit. Looking back at his ruthless business operations in which he strove to under-cut leading brands,
carry out mass acquisitions and test the stock market, we see a special commercial genius at work. The Telegraph described Jimmy in its obituary as a ‘mercurial stock market predator, a quixotic political thinker and a man of volcanic passions whose private life defied all convention.’ Reflecting back on his life, it is clear to see a pattern emerge in the way Jimmy went about doing business. He had to be the leader, he had to be different and he had to be the one on top; when the tables turned and he ended up on bottom all hell broke loose until order was restored. Following what can only be described as a very messy, in fact pretty vicious, and long drawn out legal battle with Private Eye in 1976, Jimmy became utterly disenchanted with Britain and, vice versa, Britain became disillusioned with Goldsmith and his
“JIMMY IS A LEADER. HE WAS BORN THAT WAY. I NEVER SAW HIM FOLLOW ANYONE, EVEN AS A CHILD.” restructuring of conglomerates. It was firmly his belief that the corporate raider brought more success to the acquired company. Businesses he acquired, or had significant holdings in, included Diamond International Corporation, Basic Resources International and Crown Zellerback. When he sold his 24% ownership in Diamond International (a timber company) which included 96,000 acres in New York’s Adirondack Park, for development, he angered environmentalists. However, he was not always successful in his bids to acquire companies for example, he was defeated in his hostile bid for Goodyear Tire and Rubber Company but still managed to make a $93 million profit by selling his holdings back to Goodyear! Goldsmith was a brilliant investor of his profits and he accurately forecast the American stock market crash of 1987, turning his assets into cash just before 50
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pugnacious, malicious character that came to light during the cross-fire, as James Fox recalls, ‘He looked like an arrogant bully using his money to break the spirit of the independent press.’ This in turn, as expected, fuelled what would become a long-lasting ambition of Goldsmith’s to find a vehicle and canvas with which to voice his opinions loud and clear. Why fight the media when you can just become the media yourself ? So in 1979 he launched the publication ‘Now!’, which stayed afloat for just two years, costing Goldsmith what was to him a meagre £10 million. His older brother Teddy summed him up in an interview with Vanity Fair, ‘Jimmy is a leader. He was born that way. I never saw him follow anyone, even as a child.’ Leap forward to January 12th 1997, when a few dozen followers Goldsmith rallied together on a London pavement in front of a huge billboard that read pointedly “Why can’t we have a proper referendum
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on Europe, Mr. Major?” With a cheer from the crowd, the Referendum Party’s general election campaign against the British Establishment got under way. Goldsmith had founded the Referendum party in 1995 for the explicit purpose of demanding a comprehensive referendum on Britain’s role in Europe. His campaign was one aimed purely at shaking up British politics as it stood and uniting a public force against the Tories. His was a campaign of numbers and short-term strategy over long-term tact. Pledging £25 million, Goldsmith used money as a political weapon to fire up a reported £14 million advertising campaign across the nation. In the run-up to the election he sent a 12-minute film to 5 million UK households warning that Britain was on the brink of becoming a cog in a federal European super-state. He did all this and only gained 810,231 votes, fourth position and a 3% share of the election vote. Winning wasn’t the end goal for Jimmy, but playing the spoiler’s role and leading the revolt that would tip the balance and contribute to the downfall of the Conservative party, was. Cue the memorable image of Goldsmith in the 1997 election clapping slowly along to chants of “out, out, out!” as Conservative minister David Mellor lost his seat to the Labour candidate in Putney. He had no intention of continuing the party after the election, and it was clear from the start that he was unlikely to score well and win a seat, but by using wide-spread propaganda to fuel equally widespread resentment of the European Union he made it challenging for both John Major’s Conservative Party and the Labour Opposition to keep a grip on their supporters. Distilled down, Goldsmith’s short, but sharp intervention in politics in the lead up to the General Election witnessed the same rebellious nature he exhibited on the day he decided to walk rather than run as a boy; he aimed not to win but to take a stand and challenge convention. This was to be one of his last glorious moments, for two months after the General Election of 1997, at the age of 64, Sir James Goldsmith passed away in Spain from a heart attack. He would not witness the impact his campaign had on British politics and the current success of UKIP, but his 1996 speech at the Referendum Party Conference in Brighton represented a highlight of his intense
desire to see Britain retain its freedom, independence and sovereignty for many years to come:
“JIMMY WAS A BOLD AND FEARLESS RISK TAKER AND A TRUE OPTIMIST; A CONSIDERABLE FORCE”
“HE AIMED NOT TO WIN BUT TO TAKE A STAND AND CHALLENGE CONVENTION”
“We are here today for only one reason. We want the people of this land to be able to make the most important decision a country can face - whether or not it should continue as an independent nation. We seek no power for ourselves. We are not politicians and do not want to become politicians. We are people drawn from every walk of life, from every region of the nation, and from every major political party, left, right and centre. Among us are doctors, teachers, businessmen, housewives, farmers, fishermen, and
others. We represent a broad diversity of views. But we are united in one unshakeable belief. We reject the idea that this country’s destiny as a proud and sovereign nation can be brought to an end through the backroom dealings of politicians. The sovereignty of this nation belongs to its people and not to a group of career politicians. It is the people and they alone who must decide, after a full debate and a public vote, whether Britain should remain an independent nation or whether her future will be better served as part of a new country - the single European super-state, also known as a federal Europe. Our purpose is to fight to obtain that right to decide. And when the decision has been made, the Referendum Party will dissolve. The issue that faces us is of such enormity that we all find it
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hard to grasp. As we go about our daily lives in a normal way, how can any of us believe that our history as an independent nation is being quietly and surreptitiously brought to an end? And yet, that is what is happening. Consider for a moment the qualities that define a sovereign nation those that distinguish it from a vassal state or from a province of a larger nation or empire. They are the right to pass laws in our own land, the right to run our economy for the benefit of our people, the right to determine our own foreign policy to organise our national security and to control our own borders. Each of these fundamental national rights has either already been abandoned or is now
If the media’s descriptions in the opening of this article affirm anything, it’s that Jimmy was a bold and fearless risk taker and a true optimist; two qualities which, when blended in a strong personality, constituted a considerable force. Whether Goldsmith’s name will continue to reverberate, in business and political circles, remains to be seen. However the challenge he took on for Britain is one which should be celebrated and will be if a referendum on Europe is eventually held and the people vote against Britain’s continued membership. Whatever else he is remembered for, his name will be synonymous with a passionate commitment to what he believed in.
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under imminent threat. When our political leaders assure us that they will never allow us to be part of a federal European state, alas, they are not telling us the truth.” - Sleepwalking into the European Super-State The vote for the anti-European Referendum Party in the 1997 British General Election was, according to Curtice and Steed, ‘the strongest ever performance by a British minor party’. Indeed, in 19 constituencies the party’s vote exceeded the margin of defeat for a Conservative candidate, suggesting that in these seats the party’s intervention had a pivotal role in determining the outcome.
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“People ask why I am doing all this. You know why. I am doing it for the same reasons as you. We just cannot stand by and see this nation surrendered. We are just not built that way. We all know that it will draw on every ounce of our energy, that it will be costly, that we will be abused, misquoted and even ridiculed by our opponents. But that will not deter us. We do not fear abuse. Nor even do we fear failure. Although we prefer success. And we deserve no thanks. Because as we see this tragic accident unfolding before our eyes, we are unable to be passive. We have no option other than to fight.” | EMMA CORBETT
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HIX
Mayfair
“REFLECTING THE FOOD, THE DÉCOR IN HIX COMBINES CLASSIC DESIGN WITH CONTEMPORARY TOUCHES TO CREATE A UNIQUE LOOK AND FEEL” 54
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W
ith stylish new restaurants popping up, closing down and changing hands in London faster than Gordon Ramsey can say you know what, it was refreshing to step into the bubble of tradition and understated elegance that is Brown’s Hotel and set our taste-buds on some of Executive Chef, Lee Streeton and Director, Mark Hix’ culinary concoctions. The bar was set high in the knowledge that both celebrated chefs are passionate about supporting British suppliers and sourcing the finest seasonal ingredients. From the West Country to the tip of Scotland, the pair is renowned for going to great lengths to get the standard of ingredients they demand. So what was our verdict?
T
he often manically fast-paced way of life in the UK makes it regrettably more and more common for people to simply walk into a restaurant, sit down, take in the atmosphere for a few seconds, order food, eat and walk out without paying two hoots about the place they are dining in. The more I eat out, the more I get the itching feeling that dining out has lost a touch of the leisurely luxury it had fifty years ago. However, when dining at Brown’s hotel it is impossible not to take a moment to appreciate and admire its rich history and the tales of love, war, creativity and revolution that its walls have witnessed over the years. This said, nothing beats a spot of namedropping around the dinner table which is why we were impressed when our waiter disclosed Brown’s’ history to us. As it turns out, in 1876 Alexander Graham Bell made the first UK telephone call from the hotel, Napoleon III occupied several rooms after fleeing France, whilst Rudyard Kipling is claimed to have written his much-loved novel ‘The Jungle Book’ during his stay at Brown’s and both Queen Victoria and author, Agatha Christie were frequent guests at the muchrevered hotel. Having played witness to history in the making for decades, this
year Brown’s hotel is celebrating its 175th anniversary and making its own history. To commemorate this milestone, Streeton and HIX have rustled up a series of seasonal Victorian menus which pioneer the use of seasonal British produce and pay homage to neglected dishes of an age gone by. With this in mind, we were prepared to roll our sleeves up and get stuck into a selection of hearty British dishes. Seated at what we quickly concluded was one of the best tables in restaurant and with a prime vantage point from which to survey the restaurant, we ordered a glass of champagne from one of the waiters waltzing attentatively around the room and started studying the a la carte menu. After ooing and ahhing (as usual) over whether to go for meat or fish I was sold by the selection of the latter on offer and went for the Dorset Blue lobster with Wye Valley asparagus and Sillfield Farm bacon followed by Pan fried Beasands scallops with Moon’s Green chorizo and golden samphire. My companion went half and half and opted for the Dressed Portland crab and Aberdeenshire fillet steak on the bone. We ate both courses basked in the pink neon lights streaming down from of Tracey Emin’s focal neon artwork, ‘I Never Loved You’ above the fireplace next to us.
Both dishes, the lobster and the scallops, were cooked to perfection; the lobster was delectably light and melted on my tongue while the combination of scallops, chorizo and samphire created a delicious rich and flavourful main. From the murmurings coming from the seat next to me it was clear my companion’s meal was just as delicious. Served with bone marrow, the steak was, and I quote, ‘the best I have ever tried’ and the Dressed Portland crab, with a mixture of white and brown meat, came cleverly presented as a crab shell and, I can confirm, had the perfect balance of strong taste versus light texture. Washed down with a bottle of 2010 Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand and Fleurie Domaine du Niagara Beaujolais we managed only just to squeeze in desert, Bakewell tart and Buttermilk pudding with Wye Valley rhubarb – two classic British puddings with that comforting homemade taste that is so often so hard to achieve. HIX and Streeton did them justice. From Dorset to Aberdeen, the manner at HIX covers all manner of fresh ingredients spanning the isle. Having the knowledge of this made both my companion and I realise just how important it actually was to us to know exactly where the food on our plate had come from. Whether it is being able to taste fresh ingredients, having the knowledge of where your food is from or simply wanting the best of the best, the team at HIX can guarantee you’ll get it. Of course, the food is only one half of the equation. The other half is the atmosphere. Reflecting the food (or vice versa), the décor in HIX combines classic design with contemporary touches to create a unique look and feel. Overlaying the aged mahogany paneled walls of HIX Mayfair is a diverse display of work by leading British artists, including photography by Rankin, paintings by Fiona Rae and Toby Zeigler, line drawings by Tim Noble and, the treasure of the room, the eye-catching neon by Tracey Emin that gave our plates a pinkish hue throughout the evening. The restaurant
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was filled throughout the evening with a mix of families, businessmen and couples, yet intimacy was not jeopardized. Our service ran smoothly throughout the evening which made our dining experience very relaxed and comfortable. HIX is as much a celebration of British food as it wider British culture. The hotel’s supreme taste for British heritage runs throughout all elements of its services, including a Martini Trolley offering a selection of English gins and vodkas, a seasonal tea library, unique beer and barley treatments in the spa, and tea-torials and tea-tox kits, all on offer to celebrate the hotel’s momentous year. From its home-grown produce to its waist-coated waiters and white table cloths, HIX Mayfair is a quintessentially British restaurant through and through. Without conforming it both keeps up with the fast-paced city life outside its four walls and preserves the hotel’s British heritage in every fine detail. If you are after a glamorous experience and some true English comforts then make your way over to Mayfair. | EMMA CORBETT
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TRAVEL
10 TOP BRITISH WEEKENDS
WELLIE BRIGADE OR CITY SLICKERS? - By Tanya Rose Why battle your way through airports when you can have a staycation and enjoy the best of British hospitality all year round? We’ve selected some of our favourites to inspire you to rule Britannia!
OXFORD
The Old Bank Hotel | Bank on it
Oxford reeks of romance, you can hear poetry on the breeze, and it feels like an intelligent place to spend the weekend. Learned and well-read people check into the epic convenience of the Old Bank Hotel which is smack bang in the heart of all that is Oxford. Treat yourself to a suite to experience the gorgeous views of the colleges and spires of the skyline. Sip your macchiato on the outside terrace before heading to the Magdalen Bridge Boathouse to punt the River Cherwell. Brioche with prosciutto and duck egg at Gees glasshouse is the perfect brunch. Stay Sunday night and take in the modern art and jazz at Quod brasserie from 5pm – 7.30pm; it’s note perfect on the terrace in summer and in the bar in winter.
LAKE DISTRICT
Sharrow Bay | Sticky Toffee Pudding with a view
With a Michelin star and so many awards and accolades, you would go for the food alone. With a breath-taking location and sublime hospitality that’s warm and genuine, it really is a lake view and dinner not to be missed! This is a place in the Lake District where you can do nothing all day but gaze at the view and feel completely fulfilled at the end of it. With tantalising menus you’ll need to leave your room to savour the famous pudding which was invented here. While the main house is the last word in comfort, you might want to treat yourself to the seclusion of the Edwardian Lodge or the Bank House, all sporting stunning panoramas.
BATH
The Bath Priory | Parking not required
With a direct train service from London, in a couple of hours you are transported into a UNESCO World Heritage site that is full of classic Georgian architecture as well as being steeped in Roman history. Bath is the ideal no car weekend destination because you can literally walk everywhere, no worries about who is driving after dinner. No better place to plonk down your bags than the Bath Priory as it is an easy stroll into the centre of town. Privately owned, you experience an elegant residential feel throughout the entire property. It’s small enough to feel like home, with suites that are spacious and plush. Book the Honeysuckle room and experience the Ammique sleep system; you may want to buy one yourself. 58
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EDINBURGH
The Atholl | Great Scott
>
It doesn’t get more luxurious than a hotel that comprises of only four spectacular suites. How do three ensuite bedrooms, a media room, and terrace with hot tub and fireplace in one suite alone sound? All four home-away from homes are interior designed impeccably, with the finest services on tap 24/7. Dining in your stunning Edinburgh home is supplied by the legendary Albert Roux OBE, KFO of Le Gavroche. Perfectly located in Newtown in the heart of Edinburgh, you are just a short stroll away from everything the city has to offer. This is the ultimate party pad for the Edinburgh Festival or Hogmanay for you and discerning friends. The opulence of the Atholl cannot be beaten, so get your designer kilt on and check in.
SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS
Ackergill Tower | On the edge of the sea Year round this is the quintessential and authentic Scottish castle experience. Ackergill is gloriously remote on the edge of the sea, but easily accessible by jet to Wick or a spectacular drive from Inverness. While you warm by the roaring fire in the hall with a wee dram, you’ll discover your name above a hook bearing your Barbour jacket with your wellingtons parked beneath. Hamish the gamekeeper is in the know when it comes to the shoot, or you can thunder down the beach on a local mount. Kilts, bagpipes, beef, haggis, and golf; they’ve got it all in spades. Whether dining in the grandeur of the Great Hall or enjoying a bonfire on the beach, Ackergill is a special place that will touch your heart. “Haste ye back”!
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COUNTRY
Barnsley House | Home away from home
If you just inherited a giant wad of cash and were looking for a country pad within shooting distance of London, you’d probably want something that looks exactly like Barnsley House. Classic and contemporary interior design discreetly melds perfectly with the exposed beams and Cotswold stone. You know you’re in the country and the charm is undeniable. Exploring the enchanting gardens you could easily imagine yourself in a Merchant Ivory film. The Potager restaurant prepares delectable vegetables that have been plucked directly from the garden. Or conjure the perfect romantic moment with a private dinner in the Temple, it’s pure magic. Shooting and riding are easily arranged or you might want to just curl up with some popcorn on one of the pink sofas in the private cinema.
COUNTRY
Cowley Manor – Contemporary Bliss
If the very idea of escaping to the country immediately conjures images of pale pink chintz, gilt framed paintings of ancestors and back issues of Country Life, then think again. If you have a penchant for eclectic modernity with a dash of whimsy, not to mention prerequisites like the C-Side spa and heated indoor and outdoor pools, then Cowley Manor is just what the hotel doctor ordered. Don’t be fooled by the extraordinary grand façade, for underneath lurks visual delights such as the leather padded billiards room and a sitting room whose colours are reminiscent of a Missoni scarf. Picnic lunch in parkland amidst RCA sculptures, and then, following a romantic dinner, dive into a sea of crisp white linen.
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TRAVEL
LONDON
The Connaught | Deco Dance
This London hotel legend was reborn into contemporary luxury with a fabulous makeover. It couldn’t be more elegant, even the garden is a design stunner. This hotel is without a doubt a classic reborn with a large dash of vogue styling. Cashmere blankets, heated loo seats that rise automatically upon approach, and blissful quiet in the middle of a metropolis. The Connaught bar is art deco heaven where you could easily imagine you are in the cast of the Great Gatsby, move over Baz. Dining in the two Michelin-starred Hélène Darroze is a gourmet revelation. Languishing in bed with the papers and room service breakfast is pure bliss, as is floating in the pool post an Aman spa massage. It’s so heavenly you’ll want to move in permanently.
BRIGHTON
The Kemp Town House | Brighton Rocks
Brighton is just an hour from London but oozing with retro seaside cool. Populated by the digital and design crowd, it’s no wonder its streets are brimming with boho chic, and fabulous coffee haunts like the Small Batch Coffee on Jubilee Street. The Kemptown House is Brighton’s only 5 star guest house that is a jewel box of accommodation in a grade II listed sea view building. Interior design that is both tasteful and thoughtful provides plush and desirable digs right in the Greenwich Village of Brighton otherwise known as Kemptown. Theatre, cabaret, antiques, markets, or a nostalgic stroll on the pier in the sea air while seagulls cry overhead, will keep you thoroughly entertained. The home-made jam and warm fresh croissants at breakfast are divine.
NEW FOREST
The Pig | Well Spotted
This little Piggy went to the New Forest and was terribly impressed. Don’t be the little piggy that stayed at home. With live music this summer and autumn “Smoked and Uncut”, and your very own Pig Sty to sleep in, it’s nothing to snort at. Bring your own Miss Piggy and you can both truffle your way through a lush menu that is based on garden to plate. Pop into the Potting Shed for a massage after a spin around the wild flower meadow orchard or a spot of fly fishing. This pig is so fabulous they have opened in Southampton and coming soon to Dorset! Trot on down soon and discover your inner Babe, I’m so excited I may wee wee wee all the way home.
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GERMANIA
NOVA YACHTS €80,000 per week
The Cyclades Cruising Guild
T
he Cyclades are perhaps one of the most dramatically romantic locations on earth, the stunning island heaven of The Cyclades is a long-time honeymoon favourite. Drenched in sun-kissed beaches, achingly beautiful sunsets and thrilling coastal roads, if you're not careful, The Cyclades can steel your heart away. Arguably the most spectacular of the Greek Islands, The Cyclades exudes an incomparable sense of exaltation from its steep caldera to it tumbling cliff-top towns. This scenery matched with the classically styled Germania Nova sailing yacht makes for a holiday that dreams are made of. The crew will take care of your every need, from barbecues on the beach superb dinners on board. Germania Nova is unique with her perfect blend of comfort and superb sailing ability.
Day 1
ATHENS TO KITHNOS
Kithnos is a harsh, rocky island with healing waters and a variety of things to do, including lazy days by the beach and its friendly nightlife. The island has two significant settlements, the village of Messaria or Kythnos, known locally as Hora, and the village of Driopis or Driopida, also known as Horio. Both village streets are too narrow for vehicular traffic. The villages are very picturesque but in different architectural styles. Hora has the more-typical flat roofs of the Cyclades, while Driopida's rooftops are slanted and tiled. Agios Dimitrios, at the southern tip of the island, is a mostly modern settlement, with small vacation houses dotting the hillside above a wide beach that is dotted with sea daffodils.
Day 7
MILOS TO ATHENS
Day 6
SANTORINI TO MILOS
Contrary to Santorini’s dark volcanic beaches, Milos offers the most beautiful beaches and caves amongst the Cycladic islands. Kleftiko and Sarakiniko, with its deep crystal clear waters is a must. The Chora (main city of Milos) offers great taverns with breathtaking views.
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Day 2
KITHNOS TO SYROS
Syros Island is the capital of the famous Cyclades. Its main city port, Ermoupoli, is a wonderful town full of neoclassical and Venetian buildings. Apart from its astonishing capital, it has various picturesque villages and the magnificent medieval village of Ano Syros. The entire area is a well-kept paradise with its authentic and traditional colors, heritage of its Venetian past. Being the capital of the Cyclades, Ermoupoli has all the necessary facilities for those seeking an active and cosmopolitan type of holiday, both by day and at night.
Day 3
SYROS TO MYCONOS
The famous island of Myconos, is a popular jet set destination. The island is full of tourists every year thanks to its sandy beaches, its picturesque villages, but mainly its vibrant nightlife, its beach parties and the array of designer boutiques. The traditional Cyclades architecture which consists of white houses with blue window shutters, the narrow cobble streets and the backdrop of the Aegean makes Myconos easy to fall in love with.
Day 4
MYKONOS TO PAROS
Paros is similar to Mykonos island in character and architecture. The two main ports of Parikia and Naousa, offer a wide choice of traditional Greek taverns and vibrant nightlife. Paros is also very popular amongst wind surfers as the constant wind makes it ideal for wind and kite surfing.
Day 5
PAROS TO SANTORINI
Santorini (Santa Irini) is the most breathtaking island in Greece, often claimed to be Atlantis. Santorini is a must see, with breathtaking views of the Caldera (volcano). The villages are practically hanging from the steep cliffs, on top of black sandy beaches. A place worth visiting is Oia, a picturesque village located at the very top of the island. The beautiful and very romantic sunsets will make anyone fall in love (again)... www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Summer 2013
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Lifestyle5 BEST Culture THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
ROOFTOP BARS
| LUCY CUMMING
+
OF THE
RADIO_ME HOTEL 1
With the amount of hype surrounding this, the newest of the London hot-spots, I couldn’t help but expect Radio to fall short of expectations. How wrong I was. Located atop the recently opened ME Hotel on The Strand, an elevator silently transports you to the tenth floor in mere seconds. The resulting view is breathtaking, with panoramas spanning almost 360 degrees.Art-Deco inspired interiors combine with sleek furnishings to generate an atmosphere of indulgence and decadence. The cocktail list is extensive and intelligently put together. The ME Loves You I was recommended was a triumph, with refreshing notes of cucumber running through it – the perfect accompaniment to hot summer nights. Despite visiting on a rather dreary Tuesday, Radio was buzzing – no mean feat for an establishment whose primary selling point is an exterior roof-top terrace. Bearing in mind the aforementioned view, superb cocktails and charming service, this is perfectly understandable.
2 KENSINGTON_
ROOF GARDENS In a world awash with indistinguishable ‘cocktails’ – each as violently coloured and saccharine sweet as the last – Kensington Roof Gardens is a revelation. With intense flavours, innovative combinations and the odd gastronomic flourish, they excel in returning the theatre to the art of cocktail making. The drinks menu is extensive, but deserving of particular mentions are the Basil and Lime Martini, and the Roof Garden remake of that old classic – the Bramble. For the latter, the mixture is poured at your table, through a delicate ‘Ice-Cup’ sitting prettily inside your glass. The recently launched seafood terrace is also a must.The view is pleasing, offering decent views across London although this is slightly overshadowed by the gardens themselves. A verdant paradise suspended high above the city, complete with a loyal troop of flamingos and a stylishly up-lit Spanish Garden; it’s easy to see why they chose to name it Babylon.
Y
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VISTA BAR_
TRAFALGAR HOTEL 3
The best bit about Vista is the view. With tables directly overlooking Trafalgar Square, and offering an impressive outlook that stretches right across to the Houses of Parliament and beyond, it is undeniably spectacular. The cocktail menu offers a diverse selection of drinks; however I couldn’t help feel that it was somewhat over-complicated. I ordered a Hot Cherry Lips with eager anticipation of the ‘sensual and spicy fusion’ it promised, only to be slightly underwhelmed at the rather directionless flavour. The Guyana Old Fashion fared much better however, with the orange peel perfectly offsetting the deep, round flavour of the rum. The extended bar towards the rear of the terrace is a highpoint, although the décor, in places, leans towards the bizarre. A simple, monochrome colour scheme is broken by rather jarring decorative additions including: numerous giant chess pieces, a neon-pink statue of a rabbit and a wicker deer. Again, I found myself wishing it wouldn’t try so hard.
SANCTUM_SOHO
4
Tucked discreetly behind the bustle of Regent Street, Sanctum Soho evokes the feeling of a private members’ club. Intimate interiors are vaguely reminiscent of an old-school colonial country club – think dark wood-panelling and polished leather – but with a decidedly modern flair. The comfortable roof-top terrace is cleverly designed to be both outside, yet partially enclosed – perfect for those wishing to enjoy a cigar without braving the elements. The atmosphere is relaxed with plenty of deep armchairs and soft lighting. The comprehensive yet concise cocktail menu offers a well thought-out combination of both long and short drinks. The Disaronno Sour I ordered was perfect – sharp tang mellowing into a sweet, warm aftertaste. The view is minimal since the terrace is walled, but this is redeemed by the addition of a Jacuzzi. This can be rented exclusively for the entire night – the ideal setting to enjoy a chilled Martini.
THE BOUNDARY_ 5
SHORDITCH
Recently opened and located atop a tastefully converted Victorian warehouse, The Boundary’s rooftop bar oozes cool by the bucket-load. Acres of blond wood, low-slung seating and an open log-fire, convey a Mediterranean feel. Only the view reminds us we’re in London. With impressive panoramas that take in all the major landmarks of City, the leafy pergola, complete with real, grape-producing vines, is the perfect place to enjoy something chilled.The cocktail menu is short and centred around seasonal fruity drinks so those who prefer shorter, darker drinks may find it limited. The cocktails though are exquisite and made using fresh ingredients, sourced as locally as possible. The Elderflower Sling is particularly excellent with crisp citrus flavours balancing the sweetness of the elderflower. Summer in a glass. www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Summer 2013
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INTRO IT’S TIME TO START JOURNAL FILLING YOUR DIARY WITH SOME THE GENTLEMAN’S OF BRITAIN’S MUST-VISIT SUMMER EVENTS. AS WITH EVERY YEAR, OUR CULTURE-RICH COUNTRY HAS LINED UP SPECIAL EVENTS FOR EVERYONE. WE’VE PICKED OUT OUR TOP SELECTION BELOW FOR YOU.
Events
not to miss this
SUM MER I
n August the little village of Charlbury in the Oxfordshire countryside comes to life as Wilderness Festival attracts in people from across the nation to celebrate under the canopies of Cornbury Deer Park. This year the line-up includes Empire of the Sun and Noah and the Whale, alongside performances from The Globe Theatre and Tom Odell.
WILDERNESS FESTIVAL
Get involved in the revelry and set yourself up in a boutique tipi or caravan to enjoy a spot of luxury camping. Thursday 8th – Sunday 11th August, book tickets www.wildernessfestival.com
| EMMA CORBETT
GLYNDEBOURNE
SUMMER FESTIVAL
E
very year The Glyndebourne Festival presents six productions. If you can’t make it to the architecturally stunning 1,200seat opera house built in 1994 then be sure to catch one of the Glyndebourne on Tour productions in the Autumn and be one of 150,000 people to enjoy Britain’s best opera this year. The line-up for 2013 includes Rameau’s Hippolyte et Aricie, Mozart’s Le nozze di Figaro and Strauss’ Falstaff. 18th May – 25th August, book now www.glyndebourne.com
| EMMA CORBETT
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COWESWEEK
C
owes Week is one of the UK’s longest running and most successful sporting events and is a key highlight of the British sporting summer. It has been held in early August every year since 1826, except during the two world wars. Traditionally, Cowes Week takes place after Goodwood and before the Glorious Twelfth (the first day of the grouse shooting season). It makes for a great day out, whether you are one of the 8,500 sailing the sea or just enjoying the festival with friends and family. This must-attend event should be in your diary. 3rd – 10th August, www.aamcowesweek.co.uk
GAIL BRODHOLT - FEATURED IN R.A.O.A SUMMER EXHIBITION 2012
ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS SUMMER EXHIBITION 2013
N
ow in its 245th year, the Summer Exhibition remains a much-anticipated highlight of the arts calendar, serving as a unique window on to all areas of the contemporary art world. It is a unique opportunity to view and buy over 1,000 works of art. Grayson Perry will exhibit a series of six tapestries, inspired by Hogarth’s, A Rake’s Progress. There will also be a dedicated portraiture room, including new works by Frank Auerbach, Tom Phillips, Michael Craig-Martin and Alex Katz. Whether you have an eye for painting, photography or printmaking and sculpture, this is the exhibit for you. 10th June-18thAugust 2013, Entry Free
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SUMMER
THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
READING
THE ACCIDENTAL APPRENTICE VIKAS SWARUP
A
s Swarup’s debut novel, Q&A, went on to become the Hollywood smash-hit Slumdog Millionaire, I was anticipating similar levels of greatness from this, his third fictional offering. The concept showed great promise; a wealthy businessman offers a struggling middleclass girl the opportunity of a lifetime - to replace him as CEO of his company. This depends upon the completion of seven undisclosed tests, each designed to reveal her inner moral fortitude and
innate strength of character. Unfortunately, despite the initially gripping plot, it quickly becomes repetitive and predictable. The numerous characters feel contrived while Swarup’s own narrative voice proves hard to shake off. What the novel does do, however, is give the reader a tantalising glimpse into the conflicts that face India today; the beauty, corruption and joy that lie side-by-side within this simultaneously very ancient and very modern nation.
| LUCY CUMMING
A DELICATE TRUTH
A
thoroughly modern spy thriller. A counter-terrorist operation goes awry and is buried beneath bureaucratic smokescreens only to be uncovered by the curious and ambitious young protagonist, Toby Bell. A Delicate Truth addresses the internal conflict faced by the Civil Service between oldschool ideologies and the new, more capitalist principles of this iconic British institution. This is represented through pitting morally decent, old-school Kit Probyn against various oily and corrupt top-level officials who lurk within the Foreign Office. In this way, the novel swiftly falls into terms of ‘Heroes’ and ‘Villains’, but with the accomplished narrative and complexity of plot, this doesn’t translate as an overly simplified
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JOHN LE CARRÉ
battle of Old vs New. Rather, Le Carré adeptly lends his characters a three-dimensionality that carries them beyond the pages of the novel and ensures the sustained engagement of the reader from the off. A truly brilliant read. After guests steady themselves following a terrifyingly swift lift ride (it had to be slowed down as guests complained of queasiness) they are confronted with the menu. The selection is not overly large, but has a mixture of delicacies from around the globe. Guests are encouraged to order multiple small dishes to share. With good food, and excellent views this restaurant is perfect for impressing overseas visitors, a date, or simply for enjoying our beautiful city from a different (somewhat loftier) perspective. | LUCY CUMMING
THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
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CREATING A COLLECTION | MILO DICKINSON
C
reating a collection can be one of the most rewarding experiences of your life. The obsessive practice of searching and acquiring is a passion that has engaged men for millennia; there is a natural human desire to fill your home with objects that resonate with your own personal style and intrinsic taste.
Bronze bust of Nicholas, an Irish Guardsman
Sotheby's Auction House
However, it is not always easy to know where to start. The most important thing is to buy what you love, what you are interested in and what you want to live with. You should always try to buy the best that you can afford. The finest collections always have an overriding aesthetic with strong themes or layers, and a clear and confident identity. It is not about filling your walls with masterpieces; a good collection needs charm and to be full of character. It takes courage to juxtapose different styles and time periods. When starting a collection the hardest problems to overcome are a lack of confidence and expertise. Knowledge comes by looking and learning, whether it is visiting exhibitions, artist studios, looking in books, or attending auction house views and art fairs. The more you see, the easier it is to decide what you like and what you don’t, and the more confident you become in making those decisions. Many of the greatest collectors started out buying prints. An artist’s engravings are often some of their finest and most original creations. At The London Original Art Fair (RA, April) I bought a wonderful print of a Women with Birds I by the illustrator Quentin Blake for £400 from Marlborough Fine Art Prints. At the other end of the scale there was also the magnificent satirical Map of Nowhere by Grayson Perry on view; for £15,000 you 70
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get a monumental limited edition print by one of the most exciting British artists working today. Never underestimate the importance of the frame. Great frames can lift a room just as poor quality frames can obscure and belittle an object. Don’t be afraid to mix antique frames with modern works or vice versa. Framing can be expensive so plan carefully. Mounting works gives them space and a presence. For an experienced and high quality framers use Rollo Whately (41 St James Place, SW1A 1NS). However, I use Douglas McLeod Period Frames, as they are knowledgeable, flexible and good value. McLeod will find the perfect antique or modern frame for you, or he can personally design and create one for your needs. Based in Salisbury, McLeod make regular trips to London and will pick up and drop off frames for you as you need.
Summer 2013 • www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk
A very personal way of stamping your mark on your own collection is to commission a work from an artist. This way you can direct what you want, contributing to the creative process, with the bonus that if you like the result you know you can easily go back for more. Whether you like modern or more traditional works, there are artists out there for you; catch them when they are starting out and they are more affordable and willing. These works can often be an investment as they increase in value as the artist gains success and recognition. One of my favourite young artists is the 27 year-old sculptor Domenica de Ferranti. She combines great skill in capturing the essence of her sitter whilst creating a wonderful patinated surface that gains in beauty with age. A full-scale portrait bust in bronze would cost you approximately £5,000, and will be treasured not just in your lifetime but by those that follow you. Never worry about changing, moving, or
THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
Queen. Andy Warhol
Map of Nowhere, Grayson Perry
adding to your collection and how this will affect your walls. Always be willing to change the hang when you have bought something new. No one looks at the holes on the wall but the objects that occupy it. Relish the opportunity to show your collection off in the best possible light. As your collection grows and you feel more confident and willing to invest more funds, it is worth becoming acquainted with auction sales. Auctions are exciting and a savvy way to buy a broad range of objects. The buzz of the auction itself coupled with the unique nature of the works offered combine to make the process, once understood, great fun. Auctions offer a practical and sensible way to buy unique objects for your home – from a 17th century oak kitchen table to a landmark Picasso - that will retain their value over the long term. Don’t just be drawn in by the fact that the object is by a famous name as it is not just about
WHETHER YOU LIKE MODERN OR MORE TRADITIONAL WORKS, THERE ARE ARTISTS OUT THERE FOR YOU; CATCH THEM WHEN THEY ARE STARTING OUT AND THEY ARE MORE AFFORDABLE AND WILLING.
the artist. In my field, it amazes me that you can pick up beautiful Renaissance bronze for between £5,000 and £20,000 at Christie’s or Sotheby’s. These are remarkably undervalued in the art market as a whole. They are objects that will have been held and admired for hundreds of years and you can become a part of their history. If you are looking for a particular object the first place to search is on www.thesaleroom.com, where you can browse objects from over 5,000 auctions a year worldwide and can bid and buy online. It is ideal if you want to find that giltwood mirror or Warhol photograph you’ve always wanted, and the website has been revolutionary for the obsessive collector. However, there is no substitute for seeing an object first hand. Buying before seeing is often a grave mistake and could lead to an unhappy purchase.
Once you pick up the bug of collecting you will find it almost impossible to shake off. You will then be in a battle to ensure you are a collector not a hoarder, and keep pursuing a clear vision as to what you want and why. It is, however, a glorious fight, rich and gratifying, and one that very few regret. Milo Dickinson is the Junior Specialist of Early European Sculpture at Christie’s London. During his studies of History of Art and Museum Studies at the University of Leeds he became a country house junkie and obsessive collector. He has visited the great and the good of European museums and has a particular interest in Florentine Renaissance art and the historic collections of Britain. At Christie’s he was involved in the extraordinary exhibition of Hubert Givenchy’s evocation of the famed Galerie de Girardon in Paris. | MILO DICKINSON
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DAVID A FEW OF MY
LINLEY FAVOURITE THINGS David Linley, the designer, carpenter and shop keeper shares a few of his favourite things
Limited Edition London Box
I ENJOY COLLECTING BEAUTIFUL THINGS; I LIKE TO COLLECT OBJECTS FROM WHEREVER I AM FORTUNATE ENOUGH TO TRAVEL TO. I ALSO LIKE TO TRADE THINGS WITH OTHER ARTISTS; A LINLEY TABLE FOR A BEAUTIFUL SCULPTURE, FOR EXAMPLE
The Limited Edition London Box is a real standout piece for 2013 in LINLEY’s summer collection. It is available as either a jewellery box or a humidor and has the iconic London skyline depicted in marquetry on the lid. Each one is handmade and the intricate marquetry detailing demonstrates the most sophisticated techniques of craftsmanship we use at LINLEY.
Past-Times I enjoy going to art exhibitions and museums or visiting the Royal College of Art. I always look forward to Masterpiece fair which LINLEY exhibits at in June, it is such a treasure trove of fascinating pieces. I also enjoy cycling along the Thames. I cycle all year round but I must admit, it does help when the sun is shining! I enjoy eating at good restaurants, Riva in Barnes never fails to disappoint.
The Perfect Summer Read “A Year in Provence” by Peter Mayle would be my ultimate summer read. He so cleverly captures the joys of French living.
TRAVEL
INSPIRATION
If I could travel anywhere this summer it would be Brazil. It is so rich in experiences and culture. It is full of life, colour, art, design and beautiful landscapes. I would like to visit Inhotim again, it is such a unique site offering a great mixture of contemporary art and botanical gardens, definitely worth a visit.
When in need of inspiration I head to Portobello Market, L’Isle-sur-laSorgue in Provence, Paris flea markets, the V&A, the British Library and the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. I try to go to as many interesting fairs and exhibitions as I can. What I discover at these fairs inspires me to brainstorm with my design team to see what we can come up with for the next furniture range or accessories collection.
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50 men THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
1. Boris Johnson
Mayor of London, currently riding high on the back of the Olympic boom, his popularity is increasingly strong. He is, unlike some others strangely connected with the people, and his whimsical answers to almost every question instil hope and laughter amidst a sea of cuts. Next in line to: lead the Tories? Boris continues to deny this ambition, however a recent poll in the Telegraph states his move to this position would wipe out the Labours lead. In the meantime, he pushes “Boris Island” the airport addition to the Thames Estuary.
most influential
Britain’s
2. Sir Jeremy Heywood Current Cabinet Secretary, and former Principal Private Secretary to the PM as well as No.10’s Chief of Staff, and lastly the first and only Permanent Secretary. As a senior civil servant in both number 10 and the cabinet office, Heywood has a far stretching reach; he is without a doubt the most powerful civil servant in decades. Subsequently, he has guided three Prime Ministers in succession and now in the most influential of his positions as he adds the cabinet office to his province. His past is somewhat of a novelty as far as the role of a civil servant goes, his experience tends to mean Prime Minister’s lean on him as supposed to him serving dutifully.
3. David Cameron The Prime minister didn’t have the best year in 2012, the phone-hacking scandal of his former press secretary Andy Coulson saw Cameron answer questions to Lord Leveson’s inquiry. All this trouble amidst the suffering economy makes for further struggle in the run up to another election. However his opposition Ed Milliband is deemed unfit to lead the country in recent polls, making the possible win easy for the current leader.
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Next in line to: end the coalition? It could get messy and Clegg’s frustration mounts, Cameron best be prepared.
4. Michael Gove
Secretary of state for education. Gove has plans of radical educational reforms, the most significant since the war; the aims of this plan are to promote a single centralised examination board, eliminating the GCSE. Popular to some, and hated by others. Gove is accused of being ‘arrogant’ by his piers, including the deputy Prime Minister who stated Gove had not consulted the relevant powers at be on his reforms. He was further
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critised when a 10-year-old challenged Gove’s competency as grammatical errors were found in the SAT tests. It seems Gove’s connections are as strong as the opinions; he is a close friend of Cameron’s and Finkelstein, executive editor of the Times, as a trio they support each other’s Conservative beliefs.
5. Andrew Cooper
Downing Street director of strategy, Cooper was the man to realise the need for Tory rebranding back in 1997, and now he faces the challenge of winning the nations approval of not only the Prime Minister but also the Government’s deficit-reduction plan. Next in line to: ‘decontaminate’ the Tory party from recent wrongdoings, and further connect the Prime Minister with his people, no mean feat.
6. Lord Heseltine
Baron Hesletine was a member of the Parliament from 1966-2001 and is now a member of the Tory Reform Group. His most prominent political move was in standing for against Margaret Thatcher in 1990, in a turn of events that eventually brought the Iron Lady down. For Hesletine however he rose back up the ranks, supporting Thatches successor Major as President of the Board of Trade and Deputy Prime Minister. He most recent activities include heading an audit of the UK’s
industrial performance, in which he announced the findings in his usual outspoken style. He is a longstanding influence on many politicians, having backed the modernization thoughts of Cameron from the beginning, his opinions are as valid as his experience.
7. William Waldegrave
Baron Waldegrave of North Hill. Waldegrave’s position as Provost of Eton College has been popular since 2009. He served in the Conservative cabinet from 1990-1997 and shortly after his departure was made a life-peer. He sits very comfortably amongst others in the list that were also educated at Eton College, notably the two most influential politicians in London, Cameron and Johnson, as well as Osborne. His current position makes him solely responsible for handpicking the next ‘most influential’ from the aspiring young men at Eton. Waldegrave’s other titles make him the Chairman of Rhodes Trust and the Chairman of Trustees for the National Museum of Science and Industry, with a more cultural dominance here he could also be grouped with old boys Laurie and Damian Lewis, both commended in their field. The old world order is back.
8. Viscount Rothermere
Jonathan Harmsworth is the 4th Viscount Rothermere, he is the current Chairman of Associated Newspapers and of it’s parent Daily Mail and General Trust. Harmsworth is a newspaper magnate by birth, his great grandfather was the pioneer of popular journalism establishing the Daily Mirror of London in 1922 with a circulation of three million, impressive by any standards. Harmsworth’s next move is to experiment with a paid content model coined by him as ‘freemium model’, in which viewers are charged to view certain premium content, he has been applauded by industry experts for testing in an area considered controversial by consumers.
9. Martin Clark
At age 47, Clark is the Editor of the Mail Online, the world’s largest online newspaper with a circulation of 100m+ unique monthly browsers. This doesn’t necessarily mean that well critiqued and researched journalism is what pulls the readers in, as Clark himself referred to the Mail Online as a type of journalistic drug, of the very unhealthy sort. One amongst many of his charming quotes. Next in line to: align the vast readership with profit, as it made just (in comparable terms) £27m in 2012.
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HRH The Prince of Wales. With passions stretching from fashion to education and architecture to organic farming, he is a multitalented future monarch. Charles lead the Windsor’s in their touching tribute to the Queen in the summer of 2012, causing his popularity to spike. He is the undoubted ruler of witty anecdotes and soon to be Head of State.
11. Lionel Barber The Financial Times Editor has successfully done what many hope to do. He developed an app platform in HTML.5 to rival Apple’s as consumers grew increasingly ravenous, and in doing so he made a profitable jump to digital. The FT with Barber at the top are cashing in on their readers, that’s 300,000 paying digital and a massive 3,300,000 app subscribers. The Guardian should take a leaf from this book. Next in line to: lead the sale of the FT as owner Dame Marjorie Scardino, also CEO of Pearson’s Group resigned late last year.
12. Sir Philip Green Owner, Arcadia Group. The growth of his main mission Topshop is unpredictably huge, as the recent success in America’s proves, Green seeks to do the same in China, Russia and India, with his top team exploring the opportunities, it won’t be long before world fashion domination. His most notable turn around was with BHS, off the back of a failed deal with M&S, Green decided instead to transform the flagging retail brand and now sees profits triple year on year to near £225m. He is also a keen purveyor of the celebrity brand, first with the iconic Kate Moss line and now to the biggest reality stars known, the Kardashians strike a deal for a Dorothy Perkins collaboration. To balance his activites, Green also promotes young British talent in association with BFC’s NEWGEN, this sees him seek talented designers for the next 10 years. A fashion powerhouse.
50 Britain’s
13. Mark Carney
influential men
10. Prince Charles
Carney, the Canadian banker has been handpicked by the Chancellor Osborne, to be appointed the Governor of the Bank of England, to assume his position in July. He is to become a British asset from the alumini of Goldman Sachs; it may be his charm and gleaming polish that won Carney the vote amongst British counterparts, but whatever was the pincher it’s one of the most acclaimed decisions in policymaking from Osborne. He has a tough job ahead, not only in succeeding Mervyn King but also in winning the trust of his eight colleagues on the MPC, and before he’s even started Carney has accused Executive Director, Haldane of not fully understanding the facts, perhaps not a wise move.
14. Danny Finkelstein ‘The Fink’ bares three titles, Executive editor, Chief Leader Writer and political columnist of the Times. The later of his roles is due to his history as a Politian and his close relationship with both the Prime Minister and Chancellor, as well as his pivotal past as advisor to William Hague and John Major. It is true to say he is incredibly well connected, he is the man at the helm of a paper with 100,000 paid subscribers, in the digital age this is simply impressive. Next in line to: lead the Times through the changing times ahead.
15. Prince Harry HRH Prince Henry of Wales. A turbulent year for Harry, as the media further scrutinised his every move, girls over the world got what they’d all be waiting for. He is admirably supporting the armed forces at every given opportunity and his documentation of his time as an Army Air Corp controlling an Apache helicopter confirmed him as the people’s Prince, he beamed with a sense of duty, purpose but above all realism. Next in line to: become the coolest Uncle in Britain.
16. David Beckham
‘Goldenballs’ has recently played his last professional match and his exit off the world stage of football has left many wondering, what next? On his recent trip to Miami, he was said to be excited by the prospect of a Major League Soccer team. Furthering reports that he is to buy an ‘expansion franchise’ as part of this LA Galaxy contract. Beckham is a British treasure and will be influencing young sports talent for many years to come. Next in line to: his dad’s throne, could 14 year old Brooklyn Beckham step into his dad’s boots, as reports say he’s started training with QPR.
17. Tony Hall
Baron Hall of Birkenhead, Newly appointed Director General at the BBC. Hall started his career as a trainee at the BBC in 1973, he hung around to be promoted to director of News and Current Affairs in 1990, however his unsuccessful bid for his current position in 1999 lead Hall to search for victory elsewhere. He was chief executive of the Royal Opera House from 2001, here he became the highest paid chief executive of any charity in the UK. Hall’s comeback saw him beat of opposition in the form of George Entwistle who was just another caught in the Jimmy Savile scandal. Hall’s past at the BBC in launching Parliament and Radio 5 Live channels, as well as News 24 and the website stands him in great stead to regain public trust, his calm status will aid him.
18. Lakshmi Mittal
Chairman and CEO of ArcelorMittal. 2012 saw The Orbit’s completion after a £19.1m investment from Mittal; it towers over the Olympic park as Britain’s largest public
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- Quarterly Top 50 Lists -
and controversial art piece. Mittal’s net worth is stated as £12.7bn, placing him at top spot on Britain’s rich list. His future plans are to expand his mining interests further, the steel mogul has no intention to grow in the West, and instead he focuses on emerging markets in the East.
19. Matthew Freud Chairman and founder, Freud Communications. Matthew’s personal public relations make him exceptionally well connected, his wife, Elisabeth, is the daughter of media magnate Rupert Murdoch, whilst his great-grandfather was Sigmund Freud, his father, notable writer Clement and his uncle is acclaimed portrait artist Lucian Freud. Matthew is certainly a rare-breed, and hopes the success of his London based PR firm will earn him a title close to their kind. It boasts 30% increase in profits on 2011, largely in part due to the Olympics.
20. Ed Miliband & Ed Balls Leader of the opposition and shadow chancellor respectively. The are a dynamic duo when working best, the slightly neurotic outlook of Milliband is well assisted by a stern Ball’s. They are true to each other, and it’s rare that any disagreement is shown. However the recent poll of popularity amongst the party leaders puts Milliband low on the list, it may be their biggest struggle yet to win the vote of trust in Ed’s capabilities as a leader of policy and potential country.
21. Adam Crozier
Adam Crozier is the CEO of entertainment broadcasting king, ITV. Adam has headed the company through what has been deemed a very successful transformation. The total debt of over £600m was wiped in 2012 and with
profits increasing year on year, his impact is certainly a positive one. The X Factor is one of many huge ITV shows that stood in the shadow of the BBC’s Olympic coverage last summer, causing viewing figures to drop slightly.
22. Prince William
unique monthly web users. Tony Gallagher has also made it to top of the case pile too, with the Telegraph turning of profit of £55.7m in 2012, all this success from a hardworking career is highly commended by his colleagues.
24. Nick Jones
Founder and CEO, Soho House UK, Jones is the HRH The Duke of Cambridge. He was at the creator of locations globally and all giving the same sense of luxury, he is master of the exclusive lifestyle forefront of every Great British event in the summer of 2012, portraying a doting husband brand. Recently American Rob Burkle purchased 60% shares in Soho House for £250m, Jones’ and a patriotic young man. William cannot reasoning for his choice is the mutual vision to put a foot wrong, even when the French expand and improve. Which is exactly what he plans media disrupted the Commonwealth tour, next, new ventures proposed in Toronto, Chicago, he kept calm and carried on. Next in line to: Barcelona and Mumbai. well, first fatherhood.
25. George Osborne
23. Tony Gallagher Editor, the Daily Telegraph. Gallagher’s past is a real rags to riches story with admirable hard work along the way, his beginnings at the local Southampton paper ‘Echo’ is an indication of the humble start he made in the media industry. Now Gallagher is at the top of national broadsheets, with a daily print reach of 584,000 and a giant 53,915,491
Chancellor of the Exchequer. The current face of austerity, Osborne’s figures on economic recovery have not yet rung true. He is being continually critised for his optimism and policy changes, whilst the nation faces the reality of his ‘plan’ this is causing his popularity to remain at an all time low. The past evidence of former-chancellor Howe’s success could turn Osborne’s position around, although the future of his plan lies in a boosted economy, otherwise he will have to issue deeper cuts.
26. Simon Wolfson
Chief executive of Next and Conservative life peer, Wolfson was given the Baronetcy of Aspley Guise in 2010 by Cameron after he outwardly supported the hard and fast approach to deficit cuts, he remains as an advisor to the party. The more impressive of his achievements is in being appointed the youngest CEO (aged 30) of a FTSE 100 company, the child genius equivalent in business terms. He leads Next through hard times and continues to maintain their profit levels by giving back his bonus, admirably successful.
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Editor of the Sun, the UK’s biggest-selling daily newspaper, with 26.5m unique monthly online readers, an impressive figure. Mohan has faced a few battles in 2012, with multiple staff being arrested as part of Operation Weeting, to uncover dirty truths of police and press corruption, as well as personal inspection in Leveson’s enquiry. The most recent event to rock the boat was the resignation of Tom Mockridge, former News Int. Chief Executive, however the future of the Sun On Sunday and online readership looks positive with 9% growth year-on-year.
28. Sir Nicholas Macpherson Permanent Secretary to the Treasury, Macpherson has served as a senior British civil servant to three Chancellors, giving his time and skills as chief policy advisor on each occasion, meaning he dictates almost every part of fiscal events in Britain. His experience and perseverance in outlasting each Chancellor is almost assured in the case of Osborne, as his decisions cause havoc with the public, Osborne’s neck is well and truly on the line, whereas Macpherson can take the back seat and keep calm. His history in managing the department through financial and wider economic crisis means his influence reaches from the top income household’s to the lowest, across the entire country.
32. Norman Foster Baron Foster of Thames Bank, Architect and owner of Foster and Partners. He independently initiated the skyscraper trend in London’s City district. His monumental designs include the Gherkin, the Shard and New York’s World Trade Center tower, almost at completion. He is also the man behind the design of “Boris Island”, the Thames Estuary airport project, with an investment of £50bn and the potential to close Heathrow, this could be Foster and Partners most distinctive or divisive piece yet.
32. Norman Foster
29. Sir Richard Branson
Baron Foster of Thames Bank, Architect and owner of Foster and Partners. He independently initiated the skyscraper trend in London’s City district. His monumental designs include the Gherkin, the Shard and New York’s World Trade Center tower, almost at completion. He is also the man behind the design of “Boris Island”, the Thames Estuary airport project, with an investment of £50bn and the potential to close Heathrow, this could be Foster and Partners most distinctive or divisive piece yet.
Chairman, Virgin Group. Branson is the man with his fingers in an infinite number of pies. His success is unrivalled and many try to emulate his past by educating themselves on his failures and triumphs. His hard work and steely determination are admirable, last year he fought for Virgin Trains on the West Coast and caused the Department for Transport to change their decision and reopen the bidding process, his influence here was visible to all. It seems whenever Branson is knocked he fights back with immeasurable ambition, as 2013 saw Virgin Galactic welcome the new era of space travel, with the first rocket-powered flight, taking eight years to achieve and marking the start of the aircrafts commercial service, over 500 ‘space tourists’ have secured their seats. Branson has done the unthinkable, space travel, the influence of his efforts and achievements have made history.
CEO of WPP Group. Sorrell is at the helm of one of three major players in the global advertising market, since investing in WPP in 1985, Sorrell has acquired over 18 advertising related companies, many in disagreeable transactions, however WPP is firmly considered the instigator behind ending the period of indecision, having faced tough times WPP is now estimated to be worth £5bn. Sorrell’s famous words in 1996 on the power of the internet in communicating with consumers and building brands are the most echoed quotes in the communications industry. Sorrell’s other interests lie in education, with titles of Governor of London Business School, on the Board for the Judge Business School in Cambridge and on the Board of Directors of Associates of Harvard Business School.
33. Sir Matin Sorrell
30. Simon Cowell
34. Ian Hislop
It would be fair to say Cowell is a reality TV and music industry “Svengali”, coined by GQ last year it depicts the tycoon as controlling the population, certainly true for his dominance in viewer ratings, the X Factor and his Got Talent portfolio are now global shows. Cowell prefers to create his own rivals, this time partnering with Will.I.Am to search for the next Steve Jobs in the technology equivalent of a One Direction story.
Editor, Private Eye. The king of political ridicule has enjoyed recent times, with the Levenson Inquiry pinning all eyes on the British media, Hislop used this to up his magazine circulation to 225,000, a new record, timed perfectly to celebrate it’s 50th birthday! Hislop is famed for being the wittiest political rebel, since becoming editor of the Eye in 1986, putting his pen to paper has always involved anti-government comments, and his position as panellist on Have I Got News for You is the greatest platform to air his thoughts. Next in line to: mock the movements of MPs in the next big scandal.
31. Jeremy Darroch Darroch is Chief executive of British Sky Broadcasting. His position comes with increasing power, as James Murdoch stepped down and is replaced but a very agreeable
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character in Nicholas Ferguson. His seat at the top has seen record profits of £1.2bn and securing contracts in sponsoring British Cycling in the midst of the Olympic mania has given Darroch a very successful year, seeing him take a personal salary of £7m.
35. Tim Bevan and Eric Fellner
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influential men
27. Dominic Mohan
Partners as co-Chairmen in Working Title Films. Bevan and Fellner are the brains behind a library of infamous blockbusters such as, Four Weddings, Billy Elliot, Love Actually, Atonement, Anna Karenina, The King’s Speech, Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy and the mesmerising Les Misérables. As an introduction we feel that surpasses any others, but also serves as an explanation for their success in creating one of the world’s biggest film production companies. Not to mention the unrivalled positive cultural influence their films have on the diverse public. The ability to create such timeless art is due to a deal with Universal Studios signed in 1999, estimated at $600m that allowed Bevan and Fellner unlimited power in commissioning projects with huge budgets, much to the benefit of us all.
36. Marin Wolf
Wolf bares two titles at the Financial Times, both associate editor and chief economic commentator. His later role sees him stand alone in pushing the idea of government spending to get the economy moving again. He promotes Keynes-style economics and is in direct opposition to Osborne’s idea of cutting public services. As Osborne’s plan fails to deliver and unemployment rises, Wolf ’s advice is being heard loud and clear, he continues to be principal writer on world economics
37. Richard Caring
Owner, Caprice Holdings and the Birley Group, and co-owner of Soho House Group. Caring’s ownerships extend to the exclusive member club’s George, Mark and Annabel’s, famous British party institutions. He is the head of a global network of entertainment locations reaching from Dubai to Daphne’s in Barbados, and from Cecconi’s in Mumbai to New York’s Le Caprice, these are places the rich and famous make their memories. Next in line to: convert Kettner’s opposite the original Soho House and compete with Mayfair’s longstanding residents for space to grow ‘34’ Grosvenor Square.
38. Andrew Parker
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Independent Media Distribution whose list of clients start with BSkyB and ITV. Next in line to: benefit from his stake in the London Evening Standard. He is sat firmly in a seat of power.
40. Bernie Ecclestone
Parker was appointed Director-general of British Security Service (MI5) in April this year, following on from close work as deputy to his former Jonathan Evans. Parker’s background in national security and intelligence includes stints in counter espionage, terrorism and organised crime. His past may seem pivotal in tackling recent events in the city, as he lead the response to the 2005 terrorist attacks in London and Al Qaida’s attempted attack on multiple airlines in 2006. Next in line to: lead all the Service’s investigative and operational work, a big task ahead.
39. Sir Charles Dunstone
Chairman and co-founder, Carphone Warehouse and Chairman of Talk Talk Group. Dunstone was knighted in 2012 for his services to the mobile communications industry, now heading Europe’s largest mobile-phone retailer. He has worked his way from an uncompleted business degree to a net worth of £860m. Proving his real worth in becoming nonexecutive director to a host of newspapers including, Daily Mail and General Trust whom own Mail on Sunday, Metro and the Daily Mail, in addition
Ecclestone is president and CEO of Formula One Management and Administration. He has worked his way from competitor to manager to now being known as the primary authority in F1. His integral decision in pioneering the sale of TV rights in the late 70’s has given him top spot on the F1 rich list and no. 26 on the British equivalent. He has suffered injuries as a result of robbery on more than one occasion; the most infamous resulting in a clever advert by watchmaker Hublot claiming their watch is worth causing a fight. This is an example of the steely attitude Ecclestone applies to his long, but turbulent carrier.
- Quarterly 50 Top Lists Clegg has apologised numerous times for judgements that have been scrutinised by both the media and public. Particularly his support of the tuition-fees increase. Perhaps it’s just one too many, as polls show a mere 14% support for Lim Dem’s, a deteriorating influence for Clegg suggest that he will search for the ambiguity of a Eurocrat job.
43. Paul Dacre
Editor, Daily Mail. Infamous for this vile language and explosive nature in meetings he may not be too popular amongst his colleagues, however his mood was lightened by the outcome of his Leveson questioning, 41. Francis Maude proving for the time being he’s clean. Minister for the Cabinet Office and Paymaster Dacre holds title of power at Associated General, Maude was appointed in 2010 at Newspapers and the Press Complaints the start of the coalition government. He Commission, but he should focus on has history in business and the ex managing rivals in his sector as Clarke’s Mail Online director of Morgan Stanley from 1993-1997, becomes the giant of .com journalism. and this has proved to be extremely useful 44. Iain Duncan Smith as he boasts to have cut the costs of running Secretary of state for work and pensions, the government in excess of £8bn with the off the back of his time as party leader, strategy based on civil service and marketing Duncan-Smith is in his preferred position. cost cuts. With the recent news of MPs being He specifically chose this role, whilst being embroiled in the growing Parliamentary offered ‘Justice Secretary’. His formidable lobbying scandal, Maude has promised to effort in founding the Centre for Social reform lobbying for the future. His track Justice makes him number one amongst record suggests hope. his other cabinet ministers, a great place 42. Nick Clegg to be. Next in line to: engage with George Deputy Prime Minister, his popularity is Osborne over benefit caps, and most flagging as much as the trust in his party. probably, as the face of welfare defeat the Chancellor.
45. Justin Welby
Archbishop of Canterbury. A controversial win of position, Welby overtook favourites Chartes and Sentamu in November 2012, just a year after being officially ordained as a bishop in 2011. His past bares no resemblance to his future as 105th on the throne of St Augustine, he spent eleven years working in the oil industry, famed for it’s exploitation and corruption. His education at Eton and Cambridge places him well amongst his fellows as he sits on the parliamentary committee on banking standards…all this is due to him sensing a calling from God.
46. Alexander and Evgeny Lebedev
The Lebedev duo owns both the Independent and the first free large circulation national paper, London’s Evening Standard. Alexander has demonstrated his flair for publishing in creating a £1m profit for the Evening Standard in it’s first year and launching “i” the Independent’s 20p sister paper. Next in line to: face charges of supposed ‘assault’ from the Russian state, whilst keen to locate an investor to share the London workload. www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Summer 2013
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The Rimers’ partnership in Index Ventures includes a wealthy plethora of technology’s finest produce. As investors in, Dropbox, Etsy, Last.fm, LoveFilm, Net-a-Porter, OneFineStay and Skype, they are reaping the benefits from lucrative deals, most notably, a £6m investment in Skype 16 months prior to eBay paying £2.2bn in cash for it. Next in line to: spot the new app that will transform our lives once more.
influential men
47. Danny and Neil Rimer
48. Richard Desmond Owner of Express Newspapers and founder of Northern and Shell. Desmond is at the head of a tabloid machine, publishing OK!, New!, the Daily Star and the Daily Express. He is also known for owning a string of adult TV channels and the evergrowing Channel 5. However not renowned for his shining integrity, he did apologise profusely for publishing the topless images of the Duchess in the Irish Daily Star. He should role out this moral stance across his publications.
49. Lord Ashcroft
Baron Ashcroft of Chichester. Ashcroft is most well known for being embroiled in two famous controversies in British politics, firstly he was named in 2006 for having loaned his life peerage for £3.6m and in 2010 he revealed he didn’t pay tax on his overseas earnings after 10 years of keep his tax status private. He has had a varied past including managing a rock band and holding a position as a trainee at Rothmans, but Ashcroft’s first success came in the form of a cleaning company, bought for £1 and sold three years later for £1.3m. After this he followed his passions, having a stake in Lotus Cars, and forming Belize Holdings, in his country of birth, he had operations in telecoms, property and shipping citrus fruits, he later took control of Belize Bank and the Royal Bank of Canada. Ashcrofts has also been admired for this philanthropy ways supporting the armed forces in donating towards memorials and putting up £5m for a new business school at this place of study, Anglia Ruskin University.
50. Sir Harold Tillman Current Chairman of the British Fashion Council and Chairman of the Alumni Board for UAL. Tillman the English retailer entrepreneur and investor, is currently investing in Jaeger. However Tillman’s past is a story with a very modern edge, he worked his way from an apprentice to Managing Director at Lincroft’s on Savile Row, and floated the company on the London Stock Exchange after forming a business plan around timeless design with a young Paul Smith and endorsement from celebrity George Best, this remains the aspiration for new British brands today.
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THE FALL OF THE HEDGIES
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n the pre-crisis days it was hard to pick up a copy of the FT without stumbling across some whiz-kid who had reportedly just pocketed $400 million, leaving behind their banker friends in the city green with envy, while the rest of society watched on gobsmacked. As a new race of financial superstars they waltzed on with their lives shrouded in mystery, projecting an air of defiance and superiority. For a brief spell, everyone believed that the streets of Mayfair were paved with gold. It was the dwelling spot of a unique tribe of flashy financiers. One by one, bankers dropped out of the city and migrated to its golden streets in search of the promising buzz of hedge funds’ bank balances clocking up the pounds. Although still glinting with gold, the Mayfair we know today is very different; Berkeley Square has become muffled as Maseratis have been switched to
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Those of you who hung out around Mayfair's Berkeley Square before the 2008 crash will be able to recall the deafening roar as the driver of a brand new Porsche 911 Turbo screeched past to lunch at one of the fashionable restaurants on Mount Street. The men in question, who stormed London in this way, were a breed of financially minded individuals, otherwise known as hedge fund managers. On the Richter scale of society’s most loathed businessmen they, as a group, scored pretty highly, coming in a fraction below investment bankers.
Mercedes of late, and the businessmen have swapped their parading for a more distinguished, low-key stance. Why the sea change? Well, truth be told, the swarm of self-pronounced Kings of the city have been having a tough time. So much so that the fund manager is said to be on the brink of his last million, and sporting a two year old Porsche. New competition from the wealth management arms of the big banks have started to produce equal results at a fraction of the costs. Setting the pace for the hedge fund managers, they are employing tactics and talented minds that have the ability to make the same investments. Instead of the city catching up, the hedge funds are falling behind. Since December 2009, the average hedge fund has increased just 1.4% compared with a near 32% leap for global shares. Some key industry commentators have gone so far as to say that the whole hedge
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fund industry before the crash was simply a bubble waiting to burst; more bravado and arrogance than skill. “It’s easy to make that sort of money when the markets are up 20%, but when the return plummets, what then?” said one observer (not an investment banker we promise). Hedge funders have always worked on an expensive fee structure known as 2 and 20. Translated, this means managers take a 2% share of the amount you invest and, on top of that, 20% of the profits. Tables turned, what if he loses your money? That’s right, he keeps his 2%. So when the market plummets so does his return while the fund costs remain the same. A prime example of this can be found in hedge fund Clive Capital’s performance in 2012. While they made a loss of 8.8% for their investors, the fund paid its top partner $33.5 million. The year prior to this they made a loss of 10% and the top partner cashed in a colossal $60.8 million.
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One particular fund that has been the talk of Mayfair in recent months, both here and the other side of the pond, is Cantab Capital Partners, whose aggressive undercutting of fees saw them install a 0.5% fee for a 10% take off profits; a smart move which has witnessed them take in $600 million worth of investment in the first quarter. It hasn’t all been this plain-sailing. These tough trading conditions have seen many of the former puffed up hedgies hit the low time. Last October (POSTION) Greg Coffey shocked his Mayfair peers when he suddenly quit GLG Partners at the ripe age of 41. Stepping down from the podium with a retirement fund of £450
from Brussels. Since the Bernie Madoff scandal, Brussels have been putting plans in place to take down the extortionate value of Senior Executives’ pay by delaying bonuses and clocking up taxes. Such measures have come under fire from both sides, as many think this is the wrong way to go about making sure Madoff incidents don't happen again. Whether we like them or not, should we really be driving a billion dollar industry away from the UK when we are so desperately trying to cling on to any signs of economic strength we have? The industry itself has had a huge knock-on effect on various industries monetary wise, including the likes of lawyers, accountants, banks and tradesmen, and that’s even before you
make a start on the restaurants, property companies and luxury consumer goods market. In reaction, many of the big hedge fund names like Coffey, have said that enough is enough and even left the UK. A case of this sort can be found with Alan Howard, co-founder of Brevan Howard which manages $39 billion in funds, and who was recently named the UK’s richest hedge-fund manager, moved to Geneva in 2010 for apparent ‘personal reasons’. For the largest hedge funds, relocating is less challenging than suffering the impending storm as they have offices in a number of low tax jurisdictions, such as Hong Kong, Singapore and Switzerland. It’s not all doom and gloom for the wavering hedgies, there have been some success stories. Crispin Odey, who is more widely known as ‘the David Beckham of the money markets’, recorded an impressive 24% return last year, with investments coming in from BSkyB and Barclays amongst others. Investor confidence in hedge funds is clearly continuing unperturbed; in the first nine months of 2012 the industry attracted net flows of $31bn, taking assets to $2.19tn, with HFR reports well above the pre-crisis peak of 1.8tn.
million, it’s hard to feel even a spot of pity. The bail-outs don’t stop there, perhaps most notable of all is Peter Clark, former Chief Executive of the might FTSE 100 giant, The Man Group, who was forced to hold up his hands and involuntarily bow down to pressure from investors who wanted him out. As one city insider remarked, "The heyday of the hedgies has floundered, and now many of those who exited the city in search of greener pastures are crawling back in search of a job and a more regular income." Is poor performance the only reason behind the industry’s struggle? Defenders of the hedgies place the blame on tighter regulation laws sweeping over the Channel
"The heyday of the hedgies has floundered, and now many of those who exited the city in search of greener pastures are crawling back in search of a job and a more regular income."
One insider revealed that "investors are increasingly looking towards the long term, and although the performance in relative years has been weak comparatively, they are now evaluating risks as much as they are profits." The thinking being that it's better to have weak profits and low risk in the event that when the upturn comes so too should the profits. For now for the hedgies it remains a question of time will tell. There are factors such as increased competition and regulation that make it hard for the hedge funds to tread water. However, with investor confidence still rich, the hedgies might still have a chance at rescuing their golden years. What the economic crisis did do is filter the skilled from the unskilled, leaving the survivors who understood the importance of research capabilities in order to make investment decisions that give them the all-important competitive edge. | HARRY JARMAN
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TECHNOLOGY REVIEW THE MODERN GENTLEMAN
3 BEST TRAVEL APPS
AIRPORT INFO
Whether you are going on a business trip, a weekend getaway or a long, faraway, exotic holiday, you want the planning to be as stress-free as possible. Cue the introduction of your three new best friends, iFly Pro, Tripit and Hotel Tonight. Together they will ensure your journey, stay and experience go exactly the way you want them to, with just a few taps of your smartphone. Pre-flight, iFLy Pro is the best app for navigating your airport’s services, from restaurants, and duty-free to flight timetables and Wi-Fi spots. Tripit is a handy alternative to your printed out travel itinerary, filing every possible piece of your trip orderly in one place. If you need a last minute bed for the night anywhere in Europe and the US, then Hotel Tonight is your go-to app, providing the best value for money deals until 2am!
ITINERARY GENIUS QUICK CHEAP ROOMS
((( THE BEST OUTDOOR SPEAKER ))) GO PORTABLE WITH YOUR BEATS THIS SUMMER
THE JAWBONE BIG JAMBOX £260 JAWBONE.COM Style is almost never quite on a par with function in technology, and if it is, it will often cost you more than you want to pay. Every now and then though there will be an exception that blows everyone away; the Jawbone Big Jambox is just this. Exquisite to both the eye and the ear, at just over 1.2kg, with a cool 15hr battery life, you can stick the box under your arm and pop off to the park or beach with friends and family, completely at ease. You can plug devices in with the USB cable provided and go totally portable with every
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single song you own. It comes in red, as well as white, both sporting a uniquely styled design too, making it a speaker for all occasions. The sound fully penetrates large outdoor spaces and the controls are simple to operate and stylishly designed. If you fancy something a little subtler, the Jambox also comes in a pocket sized version weighing in at just 340 grams and equipped with a 10 hour battery life and priced at just £160. Go portable with your music this summer and do it with the Jawbone Jambox!
SUMMER GADGETS
iPRO LENS FOR iPHONE 5 $230 iPROLENS.COM
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Enhancing your smartphone has never been easier than with the iPhone 5 iPro Lens, which simply clips onto a specialised iPhone cover, and once fitted onto your device, instantly transforms your mediocre - at best - iPhone camera into a seriously impressive shooter. There are a range of lenses to choose from depending on the type of picture you are after, including wide angle and fish eye lenses. This isn’t a gimmick but a serious piece of equipment designed to deliver quality. If you want a device that is versatile and easy to carry around then make this purchase. We can guarantee you’ll never think twice about leaving it behind.
FLIP ULTRA HD £160 FIREBOX.COM The Flip Ultra HD is all about portability and fun. You won’t get an easier to use camcorder this summer. Designed to be held like your mobile phone and operated only by one thumb, digital image stabilisation prevents the sometimes shaky footage recorded through an unsteady hand; a huge benefit for all types of filming. This handy cam is best suited to outdoor filming where there is plenty of light - so it’s perfect for summer shenanigans in the park, on the beach, by the pool, or on an actionpacked holiday. Add to this 8 GB and a full charge providing 120 minutes of memory over 3 hours battery, and you’ll capture your memories more easily than ever before.
AQUA PAC WATERPROOF BAG - £25 AQUAPAC.NET
DENON AH-C400, £350 DENON.CO.UK These high-end headphones are made up of dual-balanced armature drivers encased in a die-cast, zinc case. Tangle-resistant, Teflon-coated cable packs make them ideal for travelling, pack and unpack them as often as you want without the hassle of puzzling to unravel them. To top this off, a free Denon iOS app lets you alter and save equaliser settings so you can tune the sound to the levels you want. Acoustically awesome, you’ll be hard-fetched to get a sound so pure with any other headphones on the market. These buds are luxury in miniscule form.
Nothing is more annoying than accidently submerging your phone, camera or ipod into a gadget destroying amount of liquid! Behold the Aqua Pac, a waterproof bag for your water-averse gadgets. Check it out; you can even take your tech underwater with this one! It is obviously a great way of protecting your valuables, and also a completely novel way of upgrading your camera to become a versatile underwater device, as the clear plastic panel of the bag allows you to carry on using your camera whether you’re in the pool, sea or (god forbid) rain! The packs come in all shapes and sizes to accommodate different sized gadgets, including long lensed cameras, as well as oddly shaped equipment. To our thinking, it is a valuable addition to your equipment.
KINDLE FIRE HD - £129 AMAZON.CO.UK Your summer gadgetry wouldn’t be complete without a quality e-reader. It is the perfect travel companion and a must-have for summer days spent on the plane, in the airport or by the poolside on a hot day. The best on the market is the Kindle Fire HD; not only does it enable you to read books, magazines and newspapers, but also to surf the net and download your favourite movies
and television shows through Wi-Fi, all in high definition. You can also download and play games on it on the low-down and, if being bookish isn’t your thing, make out that you are deep in Brown’s latest novel when really you’re challenging your top score on Angry Birds. The device is also 4G enabled so downloads are extra quick, making this your hand luggage essential. www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Summer 2013
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THE McLAREN P1
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THE REVIEW
MCLAREN ARE CURRENTLY CELEBRATING FIVE DECADES OF RACE-WINNING TECHNOLOGY AND EXPERTISE OF THE BRITISH BRAND. FOLLOWING THE COMPANY’S GLOBAL LAUNCH BACK IN 2011, MCLAREN ARE SET IN KEEPING WITH ITS PLAN TO INTRODUCE A NEW MODEL EACH YEAR.
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he connection between Formula 1 and road cars at McLaren is a natural partnership, which has been achieved through the integration of 50 years of Formula 1 racing expertise and knowledge, plus 20 years of heritage in producing landmark sports cars. As part of the continued celebrations for the 50th anniversary McLaren recently unveiled the McLaren P1™ and will be producing a limited 100 McLaren 50 12c and a 12c Spider with production limited to just fifty of each model. The McLaren 50 12C and McLaren 50 12C Spider feature a number of bespoke styling and specification enhancements to mark the milestone event which will be celebrated on 2nd September. These have been produced by McLaren Special Operations (MSO), the division of McLaren Automotive responsible for the delivery of bespoke projects, in conjunction with the McLaren Automotive design team led by Design Director, Frank Stephenson As standard, the McLaren 50 12C and 86
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12C Spider models are fitted with the carbon ceramic brake upgrade, offering enhanced stopping power which sit behind bespoke McLaren 50 Ultra Lightweight wheels finished in Satin Black.
“THE MCLAREN P1 WILL POWER FROM REST TO 200 KM/H IN LESS THAN SEVEN SECONDS” Inside the fight jet cabin, the McLaren 50 12C models are upholstered with a full leather upgrade, while subtle branding to the carbon fibre sill panel and floor mats is complimented by an anniversary dedication plate on the driver’s door which highlights the limited run. Each of the McLaren 50 models will be presented with a monogrammed black and silver car cover, limited edition key, carbon fibre presentation key box and a specially commissioned print signed by McLaren Automotive Design Director, Frank Stephenson. The recommended retail price in
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the UK for the McLaren 50 12C is £196,000, and £215,500 for the McLaren 50 12C Spider. The astonishing new McLaren P1™, which debuts in production form at the Geneva Motor Show, has a clear goal – to be the best driver’s car in the world on road and track. To achieve this objective, McLaren is using all of its 50 years of racing experience and success, especially in the fields of aerodynamics and lightweight carbon fibre technology. The result is a car that has an unprecedented amount of down-force for a road vehicle: similar levels to a GT3 racing car and yet with even greater ground effect. This down-force not only boosts cornering and braking performance. It also helps balance, stability and driveability at all speeds. ‘We have always been at the cutting edge of vehicle aerodynamics, and all of this experience has gone into the new McLaren P1™. Twenty years ago, with the McLaren F1, we raised the supercar
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“WE BELIEVE IT IS THE FASTEST EVER PRODUCTION CAR ON A RACING CIRCUIT, A MUCH MORE IMPORTANT TECHNICAL STATEMENT, AND FAR MORE RELEVANT FOR ON-ROAD DRIVING. IT IS A TRUE TEST OF A SUPERCAR’S ALL-ROUND ABILITY” performance bar. With the McLaren P1™, we have redefined it once more.’ Automotive Executive Chairman Ron Dennis. The best driver’s car in the world must also have exceptional straightline performance and instant throttle response. To deliver this, the McLaren P1™ uses an innovative IPAS petrolelectric powertrain comprising of a substantially revised 3.8-litre twin-turbo V8 petrol engine, coupled to a single electric motor, collectively known as M838TQ. Top speed is electronically limited to 350 km/h (217 mph), with the 0-100 km/h standing start acceleration taking less than three seconds .The McLaren P1™ will power from rest to 200 km/h in less than seven seconds, and on to 300 km/h in less than 17 seconds – a full five seconds quicker than the McLaren F1. ‘It may not be the fastest car in the world in absolute top speed, but that was never our goal. Rather, we believe it is the fastest ever production car on a racing circuit, a much more important technical statement, and far more relevant for on-road driving. It is a true test of a supercar’s all-round ability.’ McLaren P1™ programme director, Paul Mackenzie.
In addition, the McLaren P1™ also features adjustable ride height as part of the new suspension. The revolutionary RaceActive Chassis Control (RCC) can lower the car by 50mm in Race mode, to produce ground effect aerodynamics allowing the P1 to corner at more than 2g. The astonishing technology developed for the McLaren P1™ includes active aerodynamics and adjustable suspension – both now banned in Formula 1, due to being seen to give a performance advantage. As with a Formula 1 car, wind tunnel testing and CFD (computational fluid dynamics) aerodynamic modelling were used to optimise the aerodynamic flow, which is considerably higher than most other high performance supercars, and more in line with the levels of downforce generated by a GT3 racing car. Other areas of Formula 1 technology that are evident on the McLaren P1™ include the DRS (Drag Reduction System) giving extra power and straightline speed both at the touch of a button. The McLaren P1™ name is also inspired by Formula 1. P1 refers to ‘first place’ or ‘position one’ – particularly fitting as McLaren has 182 Grand Prix victories and 155 pole positions to date, in its 47-year Formula 1 history. There is also heritage in that name:
the McLaren F1 was initially known internally within McLaren as Project 1, or P1. Despite the huge performance, the McLaren P1™ is also a refined and comfortable high-speed supercar. ‘It is designed to be driven to the racing circuit, with great levels of comfort and refinement,’ says McLaren P1™ programme director, Paul Mackenzie. The ownership experience with the McLaren P1™ will be as special as the car itself, Greg Levine, McLaren Automotive Sales and Marketing Director explains: “Owners will become part of the McLaren family, if they aren’t already. To maintain exclusivity, we have closely monitored demand, and announced a production number of just 375 units – a figure that will ensure the McLaren P1™ will remain a rarity and, if spotted on the road, an unforgettable sight.” The production of the McLaren P1™ will be limited to 375 examples, and is to commence in the new £40 million McLaren Production Centre (MPC) facility in Woking, Surrey, UK, later this year. Production will be alongside the production lines of the 12C and 12C Spider. | GEORGE ASKEW
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BENTLEY’S FIRST POP-UP SHOWROOM
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he luxury dealer H R Owen renowned for its landmark showrooms, namely Jack Barclay in Mayfair, which was established in 1927, has now taken to the streets for their first pop-up Bentley showroom. The latest venture in luxury car retail (although a much short lived affair) opened outside Gaucho Broadgate on May 22nd where crowds were drawn to their latest and fastest model, the Bentley GT3 race concept. The new GT3 race car signaled Bentley’s return to the racetrack for the first time since its historic sixth Le Mans victory in 2003, the Continental GT3 remains faithful to the company’s founding motorsport philosophy of developing racing cars from their road-going counterparts. Accompanying the GT3 was a range of Continentals including the GT Speed and GT Speed Convertible, each of which are capable of reaching speeds over 200mph. Also on display was the spirited Continental GT V8, powered by Bentley’s newest engine, the 4.0 litre V8. As an existing or new proud owner Jack Barclay also offers the largest and most technologically advanced Bentley aftersales facility in the world covering a two acres site based in South West London. The new Wandsworth super-site offers owners the very best in Bentley service boasting as the exclusive global supplier of pre-1955 parts. H R Owen are rumoured to be planning to repeat another pop-up showroom later in the year with Bugatti. | GEORGE ASKEW
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Sparkling Wine THREE OF THE BEST ENGLISH SPARKLING WINES
British bubbly is no longer a joke, in fact it’s big business, so much so that the brands are struggling to keep up with the demand. Supermarkets have reported a 30% increase in sales year on year, and a certain premier Champagne house are rumoured to be looking for an estate in Kent. The chalk beds on the south coast and increasingly warmer weather, create a similar climate to that of the Champagne region. Vineyards have been cropping up in many areas of Sussex and now established are beginning to encourage experts across the world. In some cases English fizz is beating their french counterparts, winning awards on the world stage. The Journal picks its top three to drink this year.
HERBERT HALL BRUT £28 londonwineshipper.co.uk, NYETIMBER CLASSIC CUVEE 2004 £29 nyetimber.com WINSTON ESTATE £32.95 available from Corney & Barrow corneyandbarrow.com 90
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SUMMER COCKTAILS THE SIPSMITH SLOE GIN NEGRONI 25ml Sipsmith London Dry Gin 25ml Sipsmith Sloe Gin 15ml Campari A lemon twist or an orange wedge Combine Sipsmith Gin, Sipsmith Sloe Gin and Campari in a rocks glass over ice. Garnish with a lemon twist or an orange wedge.
BELUGA DREAMS
THE CHASE HONEY RHUBARB FIZZ Serves 4 2 Table spoons of Honey 4 Table spoons of Rhubarb compote 1 Teaspoon of Fennel Seeds 350ml Chase Vodka Sparkling water The Juice of 1 lemon
A luxurious blend of Beluga Noble vodka, lychees, elderflower, orange bitters and topped with ginger ale. Glass: Hiball Method: Build over ice 45 ml Beluga Noble 15 ml Lychee Liqueur 10 ml Elderflower Cordial 2 dash orange bitters Top with ginger ale Garnish with lemon grass stalk halved
METHOD 1. Add the fennel to a tall, narrow-mouthed glass jar and add the vodka. Using a muddler, muddle the fennel for a good couple of minutes. Then add in the honey and mix in. 2. Next, add all ingredients into a cocktail shaker with ice and shake vigorously. 3. Strain into four thin tumblers filled with ice. Top with sparkling water and garnish with a thin slice of lemon.
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Gentlemen
It’s time to barbecue! Make your barbecue spread the talk of the summer this year and impress friends and family by serving up celebrated chef Oliver Gladwin’s take on classic British barbeque recipes. From salsas to salads, veal and chargrilled pork cutlets, all with a twist... It’ll get your taste buds going with homegrown seasonal ingredients and home reared meat from local Sussex farms. All available at the Gladwin brothers new restaurant The Shed. A colourful hub of flavours, flair, cooking and fun. Using fresh, summery ingredients, each dish has been crafted to be simple and easy to both prepare and cook so you don’t need to spend hours in the kitchen. Time to stoke up your griddle and get a large gathering together for a long, nonchalant British summer day. theshed-restaurant.com 92
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Recipeies - London’s Best BBQ Veal Patte: 500g veal mince, garlic, lemon zest, chilli, garlic, mace, salt & pepper. Cucumber - 20g vinegar Onion seeds - 20g vinegar 1x Red onion Lebney cheese - yoghurt & 2% salt, strained Assemble by cooking the pattie, spoon the Lebney, then the
pickle and this way it really isn’t a burger with out a bun. Asparagus, Chorizo Mayo, Almonds: 5 stalks English asparagus Chorizo mayonnaise (chorizo recipe, pork mince, smoked paprika, sweet paprika, hot paprika, garlic, red wine, fennel seeds) Toasted almonds Chives Wild garlic flowers
BBQ Lovege pork chop, fennel, spelt pearl barley, coriander seed salsa, wild alexander leaves: 1 large pork chop 2 sprigs lovage Salsa: 2 heads fennel 25g coriander seeds 2 sprigs of alexander (wild) 1 bunch Sorrel 100g cooked spelt pearl barley 20g sugar 20g vinegar
Season with salt and pepper 100g rape seed oil BBQ/ Chargrill: Chargrilled asparagus/ chorizo mayo, almonds. Chargrilled veal patte, cured cucumber, red onion. Chargrilled pork cutlet, fennel, spelt pearl barley, coriander seed, sorrel, wild alexander | Photos by Laura Little
www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Summer 2013
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FOR HER The English Rose
Boodles, Maymay Rose Ring, £5,900 boodles.com Dr Sebagh, Rose de Vie Sérum Délicat, £129 net-a-porter.com Reiss, Daisy Champagne Silk Front Jumper, £95 reiss.com Russell and Bromley, Cocktail Jewel Tassel Slipper, £215 Russellandbromley.co.uk Rodin, Lip Balm, £20 net-a-porter.com Monica Vernada, monicavinader.com Yolke, La La Shorts, £65 yolke.co.uk Smythson, Textured-leather Notebook, £45 net-a-porter.com Alice Temperley, Mini Fonteyn Dress, £345 temperleylondon.com Christopher Kane, Elasticated buckled belt, £70 net-a-porter.com Mimi Holliday by Damaris, Bisou Bisou L’Amour plunge bra, £55 net-a-porter. com Anya Hindmarch, Courtney Moire Clutch, £395 anyahindmarch.com Tory Burch, Shelby embellished metallic textured-leather sandals, £200 net-a-porter.com Mulberry Willow Tote, £1,500 mulberry.com Jo Malone, Red Roses Cologne, £78 jomalone.co.uk Weston, Rhodochrosite Printed Ipad Case, £65 net-a-porter.com Stella McCartney, FLUO Jacquard Fletcher Dress, £1,720 stellamccartney.com
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We’ve picked out the most beautiful selection of ‘English rose’ inspired gifts from Britain’s leading brands for you to spoil her with. www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Summer 2013
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JESSICA HART
for
CALZEDONIA
A
ustralian beauty, model Jessica Hart is the face and body of luxury Italian brand, Calzedonia’s summer swimwear campaign this year. Starring alongside Portuguese model Sara Sampaio and Cuban model Ruben Cortada, Hart radiates a sultry, summery look throughout with smoky eyes, beachy hair and a golden glow. The collection sports some gorgeous prints, colours and styles, including ruffle bandeaus, floaty sarongs and block colour designs in fresh corals and blues. The Italian luxury swimwear brand is the perfect go to get your partner feeling and looking gorgeous for her summer holiday. Watch the seductive shots come to life in the beachwear brand’s summer video campaigns, with Hart and Sampaio roll around in the sand and splash through the water confirms that summer is underway, and it never looked so good…
BEAUTY and THE BEACH
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CAPRIFOGLIO - €55
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EDWIGE - €60
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ELY - €50 www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Summer 2013
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HOLLY - € 79
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INs AND OUTs OF TWENTY20
CRICKET
Over the last decade Twenty20 cricket has proven to be a worldwide success. In order to adapt to the faster pace of this widely popular form of the sport, cricketers have had to adopt new and innovative tactics to get one–up on their competition. Limited overs means you have to be on the ball every ball, which is why we’ve pulled together five quick-fire tips that’ll help you face the game head-on and keep your opposition hot on their toes.
EMPIRE OF THE
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3: 1:
Power-play batting
In the Twenty20 format your aim is to hit big runs, essentially striking the ball for four (ideally six) as often as possible. If you master a clean strike you will open up an array of run-scoring opportunities around the wicket. The power hit (the one you are aiming for), otherwise known as the ‘slog’ is when the ball is hit towards wide-mid wicket. The length of the delivery is key. Keep your bat face through the line of the ball to allow maximum elevation. It is effectively a front foot drive that can be executed anywhere from a wide stance. Your front foot, head and momentum should move towards the ball, creating a committed base before you downswing the bat. Ensure the face of the bat remains open and get under the ball, sending it souring to the boundary.
Fielding
Many people only consider that, batting and bowling are only the two parts of cricket game completely ignoring the fielding. But, fielding in cricket is also as important and batting and bowling. Understanding fielding in cricket seems easy while watching cricket but, there are techniques in fielding and different types of fielding positions in cricket according to the situation of the game. Attacking field set: In the first six overs of a T20 game, there cannot be more than two fielders outside the 30-yard circle and at the most, five fielders can be on the leg side, at any given point of time.
4:
Fitness
Fitness, like in any professional sport, is priority number one. If you can’t endure sprinting between wickets for an extended 2: Bowling period of time you will not excel at the twenty20 cricket format. You might not Spinners have found a renaissance in the associate cardio-vascular training with a Twenty20 game. The slower pace and wider sport such as cricket, but in this version of potential for variety makes the ball harder the game one third of the runs are normally to hit. Off-spin is the most popular method taken by actually running back and forth of spin in T20 cricket. An off-break delivery past your batting partner. The batsman who turns from the off side to the leg side when stay longest at the crease are the ones who bowled at a right-handed batsman. The spin are very quick between the wickets and can is generated by the first and second fingers of carry on being fast for a long time. Interval the right hand. The more revolutions you can training, or shuttle sprints are an excellent put on the ball, the better chance you have of way of improving this type of fitness. So get getting more turn when the ball pitches. out the nets and into the gym. Step1. The middle joints of the index and middle fingers are well spread across the 5: seam. The ball rests against the third finger The Game Plan but the thumb has little involvement. Step2. Turning the wrist and the index finger So what is a good score in Twenty20 cricket? generate the spin on the ball, turning the ball Although this depends on a number of in a clockwise direction. Use your first two variables, 120 runs is about the minimum fingers to give the ball a good “rip” at the score you need to attain against an evenly point of delivery. matched team. You will find 120 is often defendable and, the opposing team will need to work incredibly hard as a bowling and fielding unit to come away with a victory.
120
RUNS IS ABOUT THE
MINIMUM
SCORE YOU NEED TO ATTAIN
AGAINST AN EVENLY MATCHED
TEAM
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THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
THE GREAT
BRITISH OUTDOORS
A YEAR ON AND THE_WIGGINS_EFFECT IS STILL SEEING LONDONERS STORMING THE STREETS ON TWO WHEELS - BUT WHY NOT TAKE YOUR BICYCLE A LITTLE FURTHER AFIELD AND EXPERIENCE IT AT ITS BEST? WE’VE PICKED OUT THE BEST BRITISH CYCLING BUYS TO ACCOMPANY YOU ON YOUR ADVENTURES!
1 NORTH SEA, SCOTLAND The North Sea Cycle Route, circling eight countries, totals over 3,750 miles. On it you will witness some the finest display of scenic views in Britain. Split it down into chunks or, if you are feeling ambitious and up for the challenge, tackle the whole leg in one. northsea-cycle.com
2 DEVON COAST TO COAST Look forward to 102 miles of beaches, lush green valleys and looming Dartmoor views. You’ll see viaducts, and cycle along old rail-line so a lot of the journey will be flat. We’re not saying this will be an easy ride, but it is definitely a must, particularly in the summer, if you are a cycling enthusiast. Start in Ilfracombe and set your destination as Plymouth.
3 WEST COUNTRY WAY The best way is the West Country way, and there is no arguing that this is the best way to take in the scenic pleasures of Cornwall, Devon and Somerset. Start in Padstow and travel through Bristol, Bath, Bodmin Moor and Exmoor. We suggest allowing 8 days to tackle this one. westcountryway.co.uk
TOP 10 CYCLING ROUTES + KIT TO HAVE
Burberry Metal Frame Visor Sunglasses More Urban practical than for long distance cycling, Burberry’s metal framed visor style adds a sporty edge to a classic British brand. Maintain a sophisticated look as you hop on and off your bike in the city as you please. £169 www.burberry.com
4 HADRIAN’S CYCLEWAY, CUMBRIA At 174 miles this one is quite a slog, but it does cover off one of the most historical walls in Britain. Cycle from Ravenglass to South Shields and take in diverse views, passing a number of quintessential British towns. Visit cycle-routes.org/ hadrianscycleway.
5 THE SOUTH DOWNS WAY
Brooks England Swift Titanium Saddle The handsome saddle from British brand Brooks England, features hand skived leather detailing and large copper rivets hammered by hand for a classic look fit for any gentleman. Choose from a vast selection of saddles, both in this range and others, including the Limited Edition World Traveller and set yourself up for that memorable journey. Get pedalling! www.brooksengland.com
Take in breath-taking, expansive views of the South Downs way and the English Channel on this 110-mile route. Prepare yourself for an undulating ride from start to finish. There are plenty of rest points along the way, including a brilliant selection of village tearooms and B&Bs. We recommend www.extonbedandbreakfast.co.uk
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Brooks England Pickwick Backpack The Pickwick is a versatile canvas roll-top backpack ideal for urban cycling or touring Britain on your bike. It isn’t just an ordinary backpack; oh no, made from water-resistant cotton and genuine Brooks leather trim, it has been designed by André Klauser in London and is manufactured in the hills of Tuscany by Italian artisans. Most importantly, with secret pockets and adjustable straps you couldn’t get more practical! £230 www.brooksengland.com
Wildernessscotland.com Mountain Biking Expeditions Take on the challenge of Scotland’s latest ‘Coast to Coast’ expedition on the saddle of your mountain bike and take in the stunning view of Wilderness Scotland’s 118km-long route that spans across the Reinigeadal Loop on Harris in the Outer Hebrides, the cliff-top rollercoaster ride along Skye’s Duirinish Peninsula and downhill run among the Torridon Giants; the perfect way to escape the city and clear your lungs. Wilderness Scotland offers a range of adventures depending on the type of challenge you want to face. www.wildernessscotland.com
Polar Limited Edition RC3 GPS Tour de France For those looking to escape the city and take on the challenge of long distance country cycling, we recommend purchasing one of Polar UK’s high-tech GPS sports watches. With essential features that enable you to track your route, speed and distance, get feedback on your training and challenge you with endurance programs, we can’t think of a watch that’ll go the distance with you as well as this. Bond had better watch out! www.polar.com
Pitango Red Rider Bicycle Rapha Trade Team Special Edition Jersey Celebrating a vintage year of road racing’s golden era, Britain’s leading manufacturer of quality cycling gear, Rapha, have launched three limited edition jerseys to honour 1962, the year that marked the return of trade teams to the Tour de France, to replace the previous national line ups. Any keen cyclist should step up their game in one of these. www.rapha.cc
Two years of epic globe-trotting, refined beggary, an unhealthy obsession for cycling and their love for beautiful design aesthetics inspired the founders of Pitango bikes to create these stand-out, simply awesome bicycles; perfect for cycling in the city and, if it takes your fancy, touring the British countryside £395 www.pitangobikes.com
Gopro Hero 3 Black Edition The greatest solution for what used to be one of the most frustrating issues - capturing your sporting action. GoPro is the must have gadget if you are planning on getting involved in any form of action this summer, whether it be mountain biking or kite surfing. Simply attach it to your bike or helmet and anticipate the epic video you have in store. £360 www. gopro.com
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GENTLEMAN’S
THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
ETIQUETTE WEDDING REMINDERS
Do:
1. RSVP Unbeknownst to you, Bridezilla is having a meltdown over who is and isn’t coming, all while Groom-monster is busy watching the rugby. So do be prompt about sending that RSVP and mean it when you say, “I do”. 2. ATTEND THE CEREMONY Are you on the day of the wedding hurtling down the King’s Road in a taxi at 5am on the way home from Mahiki, with your head lolling about like a grapefruit on a pencil? Man up and inject your karaoke cakehole with a double espresso and get into a cold shower pronto. You must get to the church even if your facial pallor matches the witch in that heinous musical “Wicked” your girlfriend forced you to sit through. 3. DRESS IN THE STYLE THE INVITATION STATES This does not mean come in your pizzastained onesie. Nor does lounge or morning suit mean pink seersucker or velvet smoking jacket. Try to wear shoes from the same pair and leave the Disney character and rugby socks in the drawer please. 4. ARRIVE AT THE CEREMONY ON TIME Do not rely on your iPhone sat nav or, the recently arrived in the UK, mini-cab driver to get you there on time. Employ the skills of your deeply annoying OCD flatmate to print out a map and directions. Whatever you do, under no circumstances, suggest cheerily to your girlfriend that she should be your “wingman” and navigate; you will be single again before you even arrive. 5. SEND A GIFT, EVEN IF YOU CAN’T ATTEND What? Send a gift even if you are not going, I hear you huff. Yes indeed you must; it’s etiquette. Pay attention, we are talking wedding etiquette. This means doing what you must do, not what you 106
would prefer to do. Remember you were invited, that means you are special or possibly loaded, so do the honourable thing and buy that gift and send it with a note. 6. GIFT SHOP FROM THE REGISTRY A toaster or a crock pot, even nicely wrapped, is really not the business. In fact it may be referred to as more than “business” when your dear friends peel off the ghastly wrapping paper you have swathed it in. What they really want is on the registry, so if you’re as smart as you think you are, you’ll get on to it quick smart and nab the two candlesticks, so you don’t get stuck stumping up for the outdoor furniture set.
to break up with, girlfriend. If you know it’s going to be incredibly formal, and proficiency in the waltz and conversation about shooting and bridge are de rigueur, you might not want to bring Nicki Minaj and her posse with you. And that was posse.
Don’t
” “ 1. DON’T DRESS TO COMPETE “Do what?” I hear you ask. You might really just want to show this to the females in your party. The only pussy the Bride is willing to see on her big day is her own or the one that lives in the churchyard.
YOU HAVE COMPLETE AND TOTAL PERMISSION TO NECK ANY AVAILABLE ALCOHOL AND PRAY FOR THE COMMENCEMENT OF DANCING 7. SIT AT YOUR ASSIGNED TABLE Yes, I know there is a really hot bird at the next table, but these are table settings that Bridezilla and Groom-monster spent hours, and I mean literally hours, in UN slash Eurozone slash Commons debate over, to avoid any nuclear meltdowns. So if you are sandwiched on the singles’ table between the funny fat girl and the groom’s dodgy uncle, just drink. You have complete and total permission to neck any available alcohol and pray for the commencement of dancing which signals the end of table formalities. 8. BRING AN APPROPRIATE GUEST As in don’t bring your slightly alcoholic, neurotic, teary, semi-violent, argumentative, allergy-suffering, about
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2. DON’T USE YOUR PHONE The finance deal, the Facebook post or the tweet mid-ceremony says ‘prat’, very loudly. Phones to silent please, and hidden away, unless you want to tempt fate and have the said appliance inserted in an uncomfortable orifice. The song in Les Misérables is “On My Own”, not “On My Phone”.
3. DON’T LEAVE BEFORE THE CAKE IS CUT Even if the funny girl is not as funny as her PR machine made her out to be, and Mr Glitter the groom’s Uncle still has not released the grip on your knee, you must under no circumstances leave before the cake has been cut. If you must, pay the caterers for another flagon of wine to ease your pain!
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BESPOKE TAILORING WEDDINGS
A CUT ABOVE THE REST
M
ention Savile Row and it instantly conjures up an image of the very best in British tailoring. Well-dressed gentlemen, Royalty, and celebrities have been getting suited and booted on this street for 200 years. Who has money and how they spend it has been evolving constantly, especially in the last century, and those who appreciate a well-cut suit have completely diversified. The rarefied atmosphere of this street of craftsmen has now got a definite waft of modernity about it. Richard James was once considered to be anti-establishment, but is now considered new-establishment. Breezing into their ready to wear emporium is a preview of the bespoke possibilities across the street. Fashionably aware staff assist rather than annoy, allowing you to move in the ample space and take in what is quite a bold dash
puts a bit of themselves into our clothes, someone who really brings them to life.” If you are investing in bespoke tailoring, the joy of Richard James is being able to see and try on pieces from the ready to wear collection that will provide you with some direction and ideas. You’ve invested in the ring, and now it’s time to really invest in a suit that will live on in the images of the most important day in your life. For example, a wedding suit in midnight blue with a splash of colour in the lining and clever attention to detail is incredibly stylish and a wonderful addition to your wardrobe. It is essential to start to look early and allow 5 – 6 weeks for completion of your very own hand made masterpiece. Two or three fittings should ensure you have something that is sheer perfection to wear. If you are on a fitness and weight loss mission, this must be taken into account.
of every single element. While you might feel shy, the team are experts at making you feel relaxed and safe so that you can really express your personal flair. If you don’t have the time or pockets that are not quite deep enough for bespoke, there is the brilliant alternative of MadeTo-Measure. This service is the perfect bridge between the bespoke suit and buying something off the rack in the ready to wear collection. You choose the suit you like and then visit one of the head cutters who will discuss the style of the suit, the fabric, buttons and linings. You still get the quality and the Savile Row experience. The exquisite fit of the perfectly tailored shirts paired with any of the icy gelato shades of ties almost completes the look. But then the turquoise or pearl cat eye cufflinks complete the magic of an understated panache at the wrist; not forgetting the beautiful selection of shoes, belts and pocket squares.
” “ Your suit will be completely unique, ultimately flattering, and also have a stamp of your very own character. You are the total focus of the bespoke team and will be entirely involved in the design process
YOUR SUIT WILL BE COMPLETELY UNIQUE, ULTIMATELY FLATTERING, AND HAVE A STAMP OF YOUR VERY OWN CHARACTER.
If you have a wedding coming up this summer and really want to make a splash as the most stylish gentleman guest, then pop into Richard James ready to wear store and see the magnificent lightweight linen suits and jackets in tasteful shades of colour. You will be the vision of sartorial elegance and have a jacket that will, post wedding, pair with jeans or white trousers when you escape to the Med. Gentlemen need a bit of colour and individuality in the wardrobe especially for a wedding and it can’t be denied that Richard James gives you all of that and more. | MARTIN TURNER
of colour. Richard says his trademark is “what has become known over the last twenty-one years as our ‘modern classic’ tailoring: one or two-button jackets with deep side vents and a slightly higher armhole for a slim, definitive silhouette.” Richard’s talent has not gone unnoticed with British GQ awarding him Designer of the Year, and the British Fashion Council naming him Menswear Designer of the Year and Bespoke Designer of the Year. So you know that when it comes to the most important suit of your life, the wedding suit, you are in very good hands indeed. Many men are taking a modern approach to their wedding outfit either as part of the bridal party or attending as a guest. Richard says that he likes a client “who
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THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
SHOOTING THE
GLORIOUS TWELFTH
J
ust the words "The Glorious Twelfth" to many shooting enthusiasts is enough to get their fingers twitching for the trigger. We are of course talking about the start of the grouse shooting season and the wider shooting season as a whole. The popularity of grouse shooting over the last decade has grown and grown and, whilst it is one of the most expensive forms of game shooting, demand has never been stronger, making the sport a huge economic benefit to landowners and putting millions of much needed pounds into rural communities across the UK. The official figures say that upward of £30 million comes into the economy from grouse shooting each year. Fifty years ago most grouse moors were owned privately by aristocratic types who would revel in inviting friends and family up for a couple of weeks of grouse shooting before returning to their own estates to embrace the pheasant and partridge shooting season. Today however grouse shooting has become as much an industry as it has a past time. One grouse moor can employ a number of people from the local community and the economic knock-on effect is significant, providing income to pubs and hotels alike. In the last couple of decades a very small number of grouse moors, mainly those in England, have changed hands from the
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more old-school landowners to cash-rich city types. This new breed of grouse moor owners have heavily invested in them and the community which they support. The result, it seems, is not only a booming industry with demand outweighing supply, but also improved moorland which doesn't just support grouse numbers and a number of moorland wildlife. Jonathan Kennedy, of CKD Kennedy Macpherson, is the number one agent when it comes to the changing of hands of grouse moors stating, "Only two or three top grouse moors come up for sale a decade, and therefore buyers can't be picky", further adding that "buyers looking for premier grouse moors might have to wait ten years until something suitable comes available. So if something good comes up you have to stike or you may not get another opportunity.” Whilst these new owners are good economically, some have raised concern over the ability of the new clientele the sport has attracted, particularly in regards to safety. Grouse shooting is notoriously difficult, with birds flying up to 81mph very low to the ground; a challenging feat to conquer even for the most experienced of shots but as Kennedy, a keen shot himself, points out, "Safety has never been higher, yes occasionally you do have incidents, but we have to remember that many safety measures, such a butt sticks didn't even exist a while back."
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With this coming season, as with previous ones, the issue of medicated grit is likely to continue to be widely discussed. Although it is clear that it has made a positive contribution to a number of moors in keeping up grouse numbers up and in good condition over the wintering months, opinion continues to be divided. On the whole, it seems the majority are in favour of medicated grit as results have shown an increase in numbers of grouse who have to battle with the harsh conditions of moorland life. If you are part of the selected few who are lucky enough to experience shooting grouse then your expectations for the 2013 season should be strong as the promise if a good season is high high, particularly on the North Yorkshire moors, the Dales, County Durham and Northumberland. If you are yet to book your place on the moors then move fast as spaces are going quickly.
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YOUR CHANCE
THE CLA
to fish, shoot, drive off-road and try falconry at the CLA Game Fair at Ragley Hall, Warwickshire.
GAME FAIR 2013
2013 19th-21st July
I
f you’ve always wanted to try falconry, fishing, clay-shooting or off-road driving, the CLA Game Fair 2013 at Ragley Hall in Warwickshire, from 19th -21st July, is your chance to try your hand. The world’s largest outdoor countryside event offers an action-packed programme giving visitors the chance not only to watch the best country sportsmen and women in their field but also to try out activities themselves. There is a huge range of activities to sample geared towards adults and children of all ages, ensuring the whole family has a memorable day. Visitors keen to gain new skills can try fishing, clay-shooting, 4x4 off-road driving, falconry, field archery, airgun practice and target shooting. For amateur gundog owners, there is even the chance to put the family pet to the test on a novice course. Beginners and experts alike will be rolling up their sleeves to compete in a new contest in the fishing area Fish for a Fortune with the chance
to land a £10,000 cash prize. On the 4x4 track, Land Rover will give visitors an exciting opportunity to sit with an experienced driver and experience 4x4 driving over the rough terrain of a challenging course. The event offers all this and much, much more; the perfect day out for family and friends this summer. Book your tickets and discover more about the event today by visiting www.gamefair.co.uk or call 0844 776 7777. Follow the CLA Game Fair team on Twitter @thegamefair and Facebook www.facebook.com/CLAGameFair
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ALTHORPE HOUSE
THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
> A few summers ago a lady, whose grandfather had once been the Althrop
coachman, was visiting the house. She related that he once remembered catching the current Earl’s great aunt Lavinia and her best friend experimenting with cigarettes in the Stables, when the girls were 13 or 14 years old. He gave them a rocket, because of all the hay nearby being such a fire risk. The best friend was Lady Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon who, of course, became Queen and then Queen Mother.
A
s you drive into the grounds of Althorp you feel the quiet wash of peace and tranquillity drift over you, as well as a very particular feeling of English beauty. The house itself sits imposingly in 550 acres of lush green parkland which is only part of the wider 13,000 acre estate. It’s no wonder that its true name is Althorp Park which is entirely appropriate to the classical landscape in which the house nestles. Built in 1508 by the Spencers for the Spencers, it has remained in the family for over 500 years. Once you step inside, you immediately feel the welcome of a real family home. Charles, the 9th Earl Spencer is an author, print journalist and broadcaster who along with his wife Karen contribute in no small part to the wonderful warm ambiance that pervades the house. Charles was only 27 years old when he took over the responsibility of owning and running one of England’s great, historic houses. Managing such a vast estate is no mean feat and requires phenomenal attention to detail. As recently as 2010 an eighteen month restoration took place to repair the walls and roof. Forty-eight tonnes of new stonework were added, and 120 tonnes of fresh lead were used to replace the 2,382 square metre roof.
card that would one day come my way was Althorp. The idea of this was very daunting. The reality has been fascinating. Being the keeper of this grand old home has been more of a privilege than the younger me could ever have imagined. I used to worry about how I could make my mark on a heritage that stretched back for half a millennium. This is no longer a concern, because I now appreciate that Althorp is primarily a home, and always has been. You don’t try to ‘make a mark’ on your home. You live there, and you look after it. It’s all much simpler, once that reality is grasped.”
“”
Asked how he felt about this responsibility Charles replied, “We all get dealt hands in life. Early on I realised that the very big 110
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Countess Spencer says, “The biggest luxury of Althorp for me is the space. We can comfortably have all nine of our children together - with their friends - which we regularly do. We have the privilege of spending time with so many loved ones, because we have this wonderful place to call our home. That is the most special thing of all for us because, now more than ever, time with loved ones is what we value most.” You could literally spend days discovering the rooms of Althorp as you are continually finding small details each with a meaning or a story. For instance, when
THE
BIGGEST LUXURY OF ALTHORP FOR ME IS
THE
SPACE
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It was here in the Picture Gallery that 500 years of ownership and occupation of Althorp were celebrated in 2008 by the current Earl with family from around the world. At an impressive 115 feet long, it was also the location of the wedding lunch in 2011 when Earl Spencer married Karen, the Countess Spencer. This is just one of the magnificent rooms at Althorp in which you could also stage your own celebration. Althorp is a family home, however on rare occasions and by special permission private events can take place on an exclusive basis.
shooting and clay pigeon shooting are easily arranged. The Althorp shoots are a mixed day of game birds for all levels whether beginner or highly experienced, expertly managed by the Head Game Keeper. Alternatively there is nothing better than the crack of the ball hitting a cricket bat, or a gentle game of croquet to herald the most English of summers. Whether taking tea and perusing the newspapers in the library by a crackling fire, or tucking up into the same bedroom once occupied by Winston Churchill, Althorp is a treasure trove of fine moments, day and night that stay with you long after you leave. It’s the special
moments like observing through the French windows and across the lawn a rare black fallow deer quietly grazing, that soaks into your soul and your memory. Earl Spencer sums it up beautifully, “Althorp is to me, the essence of Englishness. This is particularly so in its contradictions. Althorp is understated, but impressive, traditional but relevant, a historic house but also a warm and much loved family home. Its contents have been assembled with discernment over five centuries. If I had to sum up Althorp – itself the embodiment of the Spencer family’s heritage – in one word, it would be English”. | MARTIN TURNER
“ YOU COULD LITERALLY SPEND DAYS DISCOVERING THE ROOMS OF ALTHORP AS YOU ARE CONTINUALLY FINDING SMALL DETAILS EACH WITH A MEANING OR A STORY ”
>
you enter the Picture Gallery you may notice the words ‘shame on him who thinks ill of it’ on the locks. This is the motto of The Garter, the highest order of Chivalry that has been granted to seven generations of Spencers. Then there is the astonishing, delicate dark blue Sèvres chocolate service made for the Queen of France, Marie Antoinette, to celebrate the birth of her son, the Dauphin, in 1781. The Spencer Art Collection includes a variety of works by Van Dyck, Rubens, Reynolds and Gainsborough. As you can imagine it is a collection which could be difficult to add to but the current Earl has understood the need to speak to his own generation. So in addition to works by Americans John Singleton Copley and John Singer Sargent, there are works by Edward Burra whose work Earl Spencer was introduced to 25 years ago at a gallery opening in Chelsea. Even bolder are recent acquisitions such as “Britannia” modelled by one of the actor Ray Winstone’s daughters, which hangs alongside old masters in the Picture Gallery. With an intelligent nod to the present, she looks out at you from the canvas with petulant sexiness that is just as shocking as some Old Masters were in their day.
THE ESSENCE OF ENGLISHNESS
Imagine the unique and special privilege of dining in the Marlborough room at the rosewood state dining table, seating you and 39 guests while the light of the chandeliers and candelabra illuminate the stunning Marlborough Silver. The Marlborough Silver collection is still used for the most important occasions at Althorp. This collection of exceptional silver comprises the very finest plates, pilgrim bottles and urns manufactured by Huguenot silversmiths. What is an estate without a shoot? Althorp is no exception and both game www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Summer 2013
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PROPERTY
THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
COUNTRY ESTATES
The Market The Investment The Lifestyle
In the ‘12 Winter Issue of The Gentleman’s Journal last year, we looked into how British farmland across the nation has grown to be a wise investment. This summer we have our eyes on large country houses; those that often occupy these farming estates.
L
arge country houses have always been synonymous with wealth. To many, their grand rooms, manicured gardens and expansive grounds that wrap around them are a distant dream, but for others, a lucky few, they are a birthright. This select part of the housing market has continued to deify the economic environment with homes above £5million being snapped up by the worlds super wealthy, whilst homes between £2million and £5million have seen a dip in the amount of interest in previous years; some agents put this down to the reduction of bonuses in the city while others simply blame the economy as a whole. However, now even this market is seeing increase in demand, mainly from
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British buyers, 79 percent of which are buying them as their main residences. At the top end of the market though, by this we mean homes above the £5million mark, properties are attracting a range of buyers, both British and international, the latter continues to increase with the UK appealing more and more to the world’s wealthy. On asking Rupert Sweeting, Head of Country at Knight Frank, if he had seen a dramatic change in the type of buyers in the last couple of years, he said “We have seen an increase in the flow of international buyers looking for Estates. For example, we marketed a property in the West Country last year with three parties bidding - one from Scandinavia, one from New Zealand and one from South Africa”, this just shows
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how diversified the market is. Jonathan Kennedy of CKDKennedy Macpherson, one of the leading agents in this part of the market, further commented “that while there still remains a strong demand from British buyers, there has been an increase in international buyers over the last decade.” When sold, these stately properties have normally been in the same family for a number of decades, and have been the birthright for each generation to pass through. Whilst some families have managed to successfully diversify their land and homes to cope with the demands of the modern day. Some have been forced to sell, whilst other will say that it simply makes financial sense. The reasons for selling can differ as Knight Frank’s Sweeting points out “There are the usual
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reasons such as death, debt and divorce but other than that there are vendors who bought at the bottom of the market at circa £2,500 per acre and are now able to achieve almost £10,000 per acre. For them it is an investment strategy as they feel they can use the money elsewhere. It must be remembered that there is a lot of capital tied up in the Estate and the returns are not huge.” Whilst some buyers are purchasing for investment reasons, many agents warn buyers that these types of properties are not cheap. The cost of running large country houses can be substantial and
PROPERTY therefore buyers must be realistic about what they can afford. Outgoings, such as heating bills and maintenance alone, can be enough to make you squeamish. However, where the investment potential comes in is if there is significant land with the house. If this is the case then you will gain from good tax relief and planning for the next generation, and whilst there may be more effective ways of doing this, no other investments can provide a quality of lifestyle that a country house offers. Sweeting adds “It enables roll-over relief; inheritance tax planning for children; and eventually over a number of years to work-up planning and create value from that. With the continued strong demand for these types of homes, there is no doubt that your investment will rise in value, however what buyers need to think about is will that rise in value be more than the yearly running cost of a large country house, and in many cases the answer will be no. Buying a country house should be a combination of investment and lifestyle. On speaking with many owners of such properties, if the latter element is missing they nearly all agreed that there were most probably better investments opportunities to grab. However one has to ask, with these types of properties becoming a rare commodity, and demand outweighing supply at the premier end of the market, will this always be the case?
No other investments can provide a quality of lifestyle that a country house offers. Buying a country house should be a combination of investment and lifestyle
As we touched on in the Winter Issue of The Gentleman’s Journal, the real value comes in when there is significantly good arable land and sporting add-ons, such as a shoot. Agents and sellers realise this
potential by putting properties into lots before they go on the market This gives a value to each part of the estate in the hope is that a premium well be achieved if the buyer buys the lots as a whole. Sweeting confirmed that this method of selling works as “in 75% of cases, the properties sell as a whole.” On researching the large estates which have changed hands in the last decade, very little public information can be found apart from those which have been heavily publicised, such as the likes of Easton Neston, former home of Lord Hesketh, now owed by Leon Max, the Russian retail Tsar. More recently Kingston Lisle Park, home of the banking scion Jamie Lonsdale (see On the Market) was put up for sale for 35million. Despite big sales failing to hit the national papers, many country estates have been changing hands discretely. When we sat down with Jonathan Kennedy in Franco’s on Jermyn Street and put the question: “who are the buyers in this segment of the market?” to him he paused and then went on to explain that “when you are acting on behalf of some of the wealthiest in Britain and internationally, being discreet is absolutely paramount,” further adding that any publicity on the negotiations, buyers, sellers or the properties would most probably result in a deal falling through.” The simple reason for this is that in a world were the accumulation of great wealth is sometimes frowned upon, the last thing buyers and sellers want people to know is how much they are paying or receiving. Security of the property is of course also a key factor.
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PROPERTY - ON THE MARKET COUNTRY ESTATES
The Mynde Park Estate, Much Dewchurch, Herefordshire Situated in the beautiful countryside of Herefordshire, the Mynde Park Estate is a Grade 1 listed manor house which has been described as one of the finest houses in Herefordshire. You can’t help but be blown away by the beauty of the place when you arrive via the mile long drive. The house itself comprises of the exceptional Kings Hall and numerous entertaining rooms. The bedrooms are spacious and light with fantastic views over the spectacular countryside and surrounding parkland. The house comes with a group of cottages and over 1,000 acres of arable land and mixed woodland. To top it off there is an excellent high pheasant and partridge shoot. This truly is the country dream.
Agent: Knight Frank, Tel: +44
(0)1432 273 087 Price: Offers in excess of £15million
Kingstone Lisle Park, Oxfordshire This is one of the largest estates to come on the market this year, with the the house being set in around 1,025 acres. Kingstone Lisle Park is a spectacular Grade II listed Georgian house in the heart of the Oxfordshire countryside, the ground floor is made up of a spectacular entrance hall, and a number of beautiful rooms perfect for entertaining. Outside there are mesmerising formal gardens, a swimming pool and a tennis court, and if thats not enough then perhaps the three lakes and private golf course might impress. However what puts this estate apart from the rest are the number of picturesque outbuildings, and the excellent high pheasant and partridge shoot.
Agent: Knight Frank, Tel: +44 (0)20 7629 8171 Price: Guide Price £35 million
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PROPERTY Gledfield Estate, Sutherland, Scotland If its the Highland life or the beauty of the Boarders you’re after, look no further than Gledfield Estate. Gledfield embraces all country pursuits, from duck flighting, pheasant shooting, walked-up grouse shooting to first class stalking and salmon fishing on the River Carron. These sporting opportunities and spectacular views are what puts the estate in a league of its own, however all of this centres around the house. Gledfield House is a particularly fine example of a Highland sporting lodge. Standing in 60 acres of parkland, it has plenty of room for entertaining, upstairs there are 8 bedrooms and a further three bedrooms in a very elegant staff flat. The property comes in hand with a range of traditional stone farm buildings and staff cottages, all of which were refurbished in 1999 by the current owners.
Agent: Savills Tel: +44 (0)131 247 Graffham Court, Petworth, West Sussex
3720
Price: Guide Price £8 million
Graffham Court is an attractive country estate, privately situated within its own delightful grounds. It is located in the heart of the protected South Downs National Park, near the historic market town of Petworth, within an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. This estate come complete with the principal Country House, two additional cottages, a swimming pool and a separate pool house, paddocks, stables, additional outbuildings, stick and ball polo ground, all weather manège, an exercise track and an extensive woodland with potential cross country course. All in all there is approximately 132 acres, making for the perfect manageable country bolt hole.
Agent: Sothebys Realty, Tel: +44 (0)1932 860 537 Price: Guide Price £8 million
Barnfield House, Surrey Barnfield House is perfect for the London commuter who is looking for a relatively modest and manageable estate. This 50 acre property consists of a beautifully appointed country house, with two secondary cottages, extensive outbuildings and pasture and woodland. It has been beautifully refurbished and is believed to date back to the 16th Century, but the existing house was largely constructed in the 19th Century, and was built in the traditional home counties style. It has been luxuriously transformed and yet it retains its Tudor flavour of Inglenooks and polished beams, floor boards and carved staircase, the Drawing room is particularly fine. The house is approached via an electric double gated entrance and sweeping gravel driveway leading to a spacious parking area and turning circle.
Agent: Hamptons International, Tel: 01483 572864 Price: £8.25million
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The Directory 2. 3. 7.
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1. Jessica Russell Flint - Limited Edition prints. £POA. jessicarussellflint.co.uk. 2. Cufflinks - Sabine Roemer £POA, sabineroemer.com. 3. Flynch Barrel Knotted Cufflink - dual coloured cylindrical cufflinks will add a pop of colour to your cuff. £25. flynch.co.uk. 4. Peckham Rye - A London based company selling ties, scarves, bow ties, handkerchiefs and socks. The 6th generation of the Victorian London tailoring family since 1799. £60. peckhamrye.com. 5. SeventyEightPercent - A lightweight and functional case that you would love carrying around town. $250. seventyeightpercent.com. 6. Personalised Caricature - A great present for colleagues, friends or family. The drawing can include props, like a favourite sport, cars, books, whatever the subject’s passion is. £120.00. carbolicsmokeball.com. 7. Archie’s At Home - Archie’s can come to your home and serve a full three course meal. This could be an informal dinner with friends, birthday parties, or even for business entertaining. £POA. info@archiesfood.com. 8. Cartier Paris - Card Case. £POA. thesilverfund.com 9. Curve Bluetooth iDock - Sleek, contemporary handset ideal for your home and office. $99.99. nativeunion.com. 10. Shaving Soap - Sandalwood Luxury Shaving Soap. £40. truefittandhill.co.uk. 11. James Wild Sculptures - Be it a subtle desk piece or an extravagant large statement for the garden, James’s pieces are the perfect addition. £POA. jameswildsculptures.co.uk. 12. c6(n) - Elevate your brand or heighten your experience… Their groundbreaking carbon fibre event structures are clearly visible from the crowd and because their design is so unique, they always turn heads. The perfect coperate viewing platform for polo, sports, racing or any event. c6n.co.uk. £POA 13. Replete Catering - Private catering for events with exceptional expertise, knowledge and understanding of professional catering for celebrations. repletecatering.co.uk. £POA 14. Bengo Belts - Bright and suede belts made in the mountains of western Guatemala where they are meticulously hand woven by the women of the Mayan communities. £20-25. bengobelts.com.
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Diary The
DIARY DIARY
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Jay Kay
Naomi Watts
Karolina Kurkova
IWC Cannes Party 2013 ‘For the Love of Cinema’
Dr. Barbara Buchwald, Karolina Kurkova, Alan Trustman
Katie Hersov, Robert Hersov
Georges Kern & Naomi Watts
John Helliwell
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Georges Kern & Christoph Waltz
Cannes, it’s the summer stage for best films of the year, and a beautiful spectacle, the streets are lined with every component of the luxury lifestyle. For the gentlemen, this always includes a Swiss timepiece of haute horlogerie, so who better to throw an exclusive dinner to celebrate Cannes 2013 than IWC. The infamous Hotel Du Cap-Eden-Roc hosted the event for over 200 notable celebrities and Friends of the Brand including Lewis Hamilton, Naomi Watts, Christoph Waltz and the impeccable Rooney Mara fresh from hosting the Met Ball. The focus of the night was on the IWC Filmmaker Award, presented to ‘Thomas Crown Affair’ screenwriter Alan Trustman. In true Cannes style, every day must end or begin with a party, so Jamiroquai took to the decks whilst the guests donned their dancing shoes.
Lewis Hamilton
THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
Eric Dane
Aloe Blacc
Karolina Kurkova
Jimmy Jean-Louis, Gary Dourdan
Aloe Blacc takes to the stage
Georges Kern & Lewis Hamilton
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Tom Probert, Ollie Wilson and Toby Fitzherbert
Katie Readman and Tom Warren
The Running For Sight Ball
The thought of doing 6 marathons in 6 days is enough to make anyone weak at the knees, but Jack Tyrwhitt-Drake, Thomas Muir, Charlie Oakes, Anthony Von Christierson and Tim Elborne are doing just this and, what’s more, in the Gobi desert. Why you may ask? Well, they are running it in aid of theSavitri Waney Charitable Trust, whose primary aim is to cure blindness in rural India.
Marina Ritossa and Ivan Ritossa
Before they headed off to the sweltering heat they decided to throw a big ball at the stunning Syon Park, inviting 500 of their nearest and dearest friends for a delicious dinner and lots and lots of fizz. Tom Tyrwhitt-Drake gave a very entertaining show as auctioneer for the night, before everyone headed to the dance floor. Then on the way home it seemed that most of the party ended up in George Adams’ Bar, 86 on the Fulham Road. Needless to say, the evening was a huge success raising over £60,000 for a great cause. Congrats and good luck gentlemen!
Giulia Sebregondi and Nazifa Movsoumova Fred Leask and Lauren Skerritt
Edoardo Gerosa and Costanza Beltrame
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Emma Clarkson Webb, Cressida Bonas and Tintin MacDonald
Hugo Brassey, Ludo ShawStewart and Tom Warren
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Olga Polizzi and Nicky Haslam
Irene Forte and Dame Vivien Duffield
Stuart Johnson and Lucy Johnson
Sir Rocco Forte, Olga Polizzi and Stuart Johnson
175th Anniversary of Browns Hotel
Stephanie Meadows, Oliver Proudlock and Kat Kaplin
Charlotte Bear and Ham Fleming
Daisy Fellows
In 1837, James Brown, Lord Byron’s butler and his wife Sarah, who was Lady Byron’s maid, acquired 23 Dover Street and by mid 1838, had expanded into numbers 21,22 and 24, to create Brown’s Hotel. Throughout the years, Brown’s has welcomed numerous famous guests and is steeped in fascinating history. Alexander Graham Bell made the first UK telephone call from the hotel in 1876, Rudyard Kipling wrote ‘The Jungle Book’ whilst staying at Brown’s, Queen Victoria visited the hotel regularly, as did crime writer Agatha Christie, who even based her novel, “At Bertram’s Hotel” on Brown’s Hotel.
In December 2005, Sir Rocco Forte took to the helm of Brown’s Hotel, and with the help of his sister, Director of Design, Olga Polizzi, has over the past seven years, created a well-loved quintessentially English hotel with contemporary twists to its design. Today Brown’s remains in fashion and is frequented by artists and fashionistas from Tracey Emin and Paul Smith to Nicholas Kirkwood and Stella McCartney, as well as from the wider art, music and literary world.
Daisy Hambro and Chessie Grievson
Lord John de Ramsey & Daisy Fellows
Grace Guppy & Katie Hiscock
Daisy Fellowes’s Lilah fashion party
James Tussaud, Freddie Brun and Tom Warren
Daisy Fellowes founded Lilah as a traditional English brand but with a twist of luxury using Indian textiles. She has created a collection of statement pieces perfect for the Great British events of the summer. Her party at Quo Vadis in Soho, celebrated the brand’s story with a glass of prosecco, guests including Katie Redman and Daisy Hambro ogled at the lookbook and some were lucky enough to purchase their racing wardrobe there and then! Lilah’s designs are inspired by the ‘old school’ and I’m sure she’ll have a celebrity cult following soon enough; it’s right up Miss Middleton’s street. www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Summer 2013 |
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INTERVIEW:CATCHUP
JEREMY IRVINE @ CANNES
Jeremy Irvine set the British acting scene alight with his stunning performance in Steven Spielberg’s screen adaptation of War Horse. In May this year his talent was celebrated when he was awarded a Chopard Trophée by Oscar award-winning actor Colin Firth, patron of the Chopard Trophy. The much - coveted award signals his quick rise to fame. With two new movies on the way, including the sequel to The Woman in Black, he is most certainly one to watch out for this year.
We caught up with him at Cannes Film Festival to find out how he feels about following in the footsteps of fellow young British actor Daniel Radcliffe, what it was like working alongside Spielberg and how is evening with The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge went.
WHAT WAS IT LIKE WORKING WITH SPIELBERG?
WHO WOULD YOU MOST LIKE TO ACT ALONGSIDE?
WHAT DID YOU LEARN FROM HIM?
THE DUKE AND DUCHESS OF CAMBRIDGE INVITED YOU FOR DRINKS RECENTLY, HOW DID IT GO?
Well War Horse was my first job so I had never really acted in films so Spielberg was more than my Director he was very much a father figure. I saw him last night at the awards and I was a little out of my depth and nervous but he came over and gave me a hug and reassured me.
He taught me a lot about acting for camera, when I first shot War Horse I was down in this muddy field in Devon and I had to fall off a horse and he was down in the mud with me showing me how to get up. He taught me a lot of lessons about camera technique.
YOU WERE AWARDED CHOPARD’S TROPHÉE BY COLIN FIRTH AT THE 2013 CHOPARD AWARDS CEREMONY IN CANNES LAST MONTH, HOW DID THAT FEEL?
I feel incredibly honoured and surprised; the last few years that I have filmed have felt very much like a party that I have crashed. I always feel incredibly honoured that I am invited to these big award events and to be around all these actors that I have admired since I was very young, actors like Colin Firth are the reason I went into acting so to be on stage with them is astonishing!
THE CRITICS SAY YOU BECAME A ‘STAR OVERNIGHT’ AFTER WAR HORSE, WHAT HAS CHANGED SINCE YOU ROSE TO FAME?
Nothing has changed really apart from that I can now get work and I spent two years trying to get work so I am now really doing my hobby as a job which is great.
WHAT WOULD YOUR ADVICE BE TO ANYONE LOOKING TO GET INTO ACTING? Cameras are so cheap, most computers have editing software so there is no excuse anymore not to make your own work. The reason I got into War Horse was because I shot my own footage with friends and Spielberg saw this footage. Even if you don’t have work you can make your own work. You can’t waste time sitting by the phone.
WHAT HAVE YOU GOT COMING UP IN THE LATTER HALF OF THE YEAR?
I have got two movies coming up this year, one of them I can talk about which is a horror movie, the sequel to The Woman in Black. We take the Daniel Radcliffe movie and jump forward 60 years to the Second World War and the story goes from the blitz through to the evacuation. I’d love to do an action movie. I don’t choose scripts based on genre but rather character and whether the script is moving. After War Horse I turned down every script for six months until I came across Narrows Beard which was a script that really spoke to me. You don’t pick a film based on genre but rather what moves you.
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I mean filming with people like Colin is beyond my wildest expectations anyway. I have always been a fan of Leonardo di Caprio, I saw The Great Gatsby last night and he has always been one of my heroes, people like Christian Bale and Michael Shannon are my favourite actors right now.
I did go and I took my Grandma and my Dad. It was quite a mad experience but it was nice to take my Grandmother, I felt that she could appreciate it a bit more than I could because it felt a little bit like a dream to me!
WHAT DO YOU LIKE TO DO WHEN YOU ARE NOT ACTING?
I do a lot of writing, I’m very into writing history documentaries; I have always been fascinated by the personal stories that came out of the First and Second World War, I have recently been writing a story about a fighter pilot. It’s something I am very passionate about outside of acting.
| JEREMY WITH CHOPARD IN CANNES.
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