GJ Autumn Issue

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THE

GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL EXPLORERWEAR A WILDERNESS WARDROBE

POLITICS, GROWTH AND POWER:

MICHAEL HESELTINE

LEWIS HAMILTON Q&A

HIGHCLERE CASTLE DOWNTON’S HOME REVEALS ITS SECRETS

BUSINESS

THOSE WHO RISKED ALL AND WON

If you’re going through hell.... keep going.

Winston Churchill

THE MAN I CALL DAD

JAMES HUNT BY TOM HUNT


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V I E W T H E F I L M AT: W W W. G I E V E S A N D H A W K E S. C O M 2

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theo fennell

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EDITOR’S LETTER

G newspaper.

reen Shoots, Green Shoots…Unless you have been living in a hole for the last two months, you will have read these two words numerous times on the front page of nearly every

To me, it seems slightly unnerving. Only five months ago the press were still feeding us that familiar story of how this has been the worst recession in history. But all it seems to take is a bit of sunshine and a new bank governor, and bob’s your uncle. We’re now discussing growth, how consumer confidence is up and interest rates are to remain low to encourage more borrowing. Isn’t that one of the main reasons the financial crisis happened, too much borrowing? I can’t help but hope that the “Green Shoots” are here to stay. Michael Heseltine (Pg 60) certainly thinks so and he should know. Not only is he the Minister for Growth, but also one of Britain’s most successful businessmen with his Haymarket Media empire. When we questioned him about the publishing industry and whether he thought it was growing or in decline, the answer was surprisingly optimistic, using the rightly much-used word “digital” in his description of growth. In a way, his answer was similar to a recession as a whole. Recessions strangely allow for growth and diversification, clearly shown by the record number of companies starting up last year. Whole new industries, platforms and ways of doing businesses are emerging. One such platform plugging into and propagating this trend is YouTube. Teenagers in their bedrooms are now earning six figure salaries from advertising revenues on their own channels. We met up with a few of these unlikely entrepreneurs to find out how they’re doing it (Pg 82). Starting a business is on the whole no easy task and few ever reach true success. It takes a unique type of mind, one that is resilient to doubt and oblivious to failure, one that has the mental endurance to keep going when everything

seems lost. Gideon Spanier writes of five such minds who “risked all and won” (Pg 45). I am pleased to say that the theme of risk and endurance is rife in this issue, from personal challenges to legendary stories that inspired generations. Charles Blackmore writes about his childhood hero, the great Lawrence of Arabia, who even inspired him to re-tread Lawrence’s footsteps on camel-back. We also interviewed the amazing Ranulph Fiennes, who spoke to us about his incredible and astonishing achievements. Tom Hunt has penned a moving tribute to his father, the late, great Formula One champion James Hunt. These three individuals were all risk-takers who pushed themselves to the limit to achieve their goals and achieved them in spectacular style. They were all very different, and motivated by different things. However, when you look closely you will spot the subtle similarities in their mindsets, a state of mind that is shared by so many inspiring individuals. I hope you enjoy all these stories as much as we have enjoyed writing them and I leave you with a quote that, to me, sums up what this issue- green shoots, entrepreneurship, risk-taking and endurance- is all about. In the words of the late Steve Jobs: ‘stay hungry, stay foolish’. | HARRY JARMAN www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Autumn 2013

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CONTENTS T. E Lawrence

H

The

Headlines

Pg.38

is name is synonymous with glamour and adventure, but T. E. Lawrence’s life was complicated to say the least. We get a glimpse of the man behind the legend.

Those

S

Pg. 16 - Autumn Essentials

who risked all

Pg. 45

ometimes in business it pays to take a risk - but more often than not it doesn’t, particularly when you’re gambling your reputation and livelihood. Meet five men who beat the odds.

Explorer Wear

B

Pg. 24 - Gieves & Hawkes

Pg. 28

aby, it’s cold outside – and I want to be there. Our essential guide to the kit you need for all varieties of adventure, from mountain climbing to sailing.

Pg. 60 -Michael Hesletine

Pg. 68 - Lewis Hamilton

Ranulph Fiennes

Pg. 50

T

his man has broken more records than he’s had hot meals (it’s hard to cook a roast on the north pole, we hear). He’s sacrificed his life – and some of his fingers – to explore the world.

P

resenting everything you need to know about shooting: the kit, the places, the anecdotes. Plus, Lord James Percy tells us about his life on the field and Trevor Dundas shares some memorable stories.

Shooting Special Front Cover Image © Sutton Images

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Pg. 104

Pg. 70 -My Father by Tom Hunt

Pg. 130 - Katie Readman


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CONTRIBUTORS MARK HIX

ADAM DE SILVA

Photographer Adam is a creative editorial and advertising photographer specialising in portraiture. Originally from rural Leicestershire, Adam fell in love with photography at an early age. After graduating from Gloucester University with a first class honours degree, Adam immediately got picked up by a London agency and started shooting commissions for brands such as Sky and Diageo, to name a few. He currently spends most of his time between London & Paris shooting for various clients and often exhibits his work in both cities. www.adamdesilva.com

Food Celebrated chef and restauranteur, Mark is known for his original take on British gastronomy. After 17 years as Chef Director at Caprice Holdings, he opened his first restaurant in 2008 - the distinguished Hix Oyster & Chop House and has since opened Hix Oyster & Fish House, the award-winning Mark’s Bar, the Tramshed, and HIX Mayfair in Brown’s Hotel to great acclaim. He is lauded as one of London’s most eminent restaurateurs and has a monthly column in Esquire, weekly column in The Independent and several cookbooks to his name.

TANYA ROSE & MARTIN TURNER Luxury Travel Tanya is known as “The Voice of Luxury Travel” and is founder of the successful travel PR Company Mason Rose. Tanya is the trusted travel confidante of high profile individuals and celebrities around the world, and known for her expert knowledge of the luxury travel sector. Martin is a communications consultant, journalist, scriptwriter, and a senior lecturer in Event Management. Martin has travelled extensively all his life and has a wealth of personal and professional travel experience.

GIDEON SPANIER

TOM HUNT

Founder of the James Hunt Foundation Few names in motor-sport evoke pure racing passion as much as the legendary James Hunt. To celebrate the upcoming release of Rush, the film detailing James Hunt’s titanic battle with Niki Lauda in 1976, his son, Tom Hunt, has written an exclusive piece about his father’s life on Pg. 70. Tom is the proud founder of the James Hunt Foundation and, as of recently, the mind behind the James Hunt Collection clothing line due for sale in McLaren stores to commemorate his father’s legacy 20 years on from his death.

Business Having written stories for the London Evening Standard since 2010, Gideon is best known for his commentary on the technology and business sectors. He’s also the ears, eyes and mind behind the title’s much-anticipated annual supplement, ‘The 1,000 Most Influential People in London’. From politicians to those leading the way in the worlds of business and fashion, Gideon has his finger on the pulses of the most successful people in the Capital and the latest news breaking in Britain. He also writes frequently for The Independent.

CHARLES BLACKMORE The Romantic Explorer

In addition to serving 14 years in the Royal Green Jackets and 6th Gurkha Rifles, Charles has carried out three major expeditions: he’s retraced the 500 mile route of the British Army’s 1808 retreat to Spain, conquered the Taklamakan Desert in China, leading his team 1,000 miles on camel across the infamous ‘Desert of Death’ and re-traced the footsteps of Lawrence of Arabia, crossing 800 miles of hostile terrain through the Jordanian and Saudi desert. It is compelling to read his account of T.E Lawrence’s expedition on Pg. 38.

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THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL

Harry Jarman Editor In Chief Finn Bruce Creative Director

Violet Hudson Deputy Editor

Emma Corbett Associate Editor

Catie Elliot Senior Features Assistant

Holly MacNaghten Junior Features Assistant

George Askew Sales & Business Development

Cole Simmons Fashion Editor

Ted Maberly Account Executive

Digby Warde-Aldam Senior Sub-Editor

Georgina Wootton Additional Copy Editor

Tina Blackmore Head of HR

Emma Thornton PA to the Editor

Jaime Jarvis In-House Stylist

Phoebe Parnell In-House Make-Up Artist

Rory Skeoch In-House Videographer

John Peveril Production Assistant

Contributing Editors Guy Pelly Rob Sheffield Katie Readman Digby Warde-Aldam Philip Womack Matthew Bell Matt Roberts Francis Boulle Tanya Rose For editorial enquiries please e-mail: editorial@thegentlemansjournal.co.uk For advertising enquiries please e-mail: advertising@thegentlemansjournal.co.uk Subscriptions are available by e-mailing: subscriptions@thegentlemansjournal.co.uk THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL LIMITED 11-14 GRAFTON STREET MAYFAIR LONDON W1S 4EW The Gentleman's Journal Limited cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited submissions, manuscripts and photographs. While every care is taken, prices and details are subject to change and The Gentleman's Journal Limited take no responsibility for omissions or errors. We reserve the right to publish and edit any letters. All rights reserved.

All photos from Instagram @thegentsjournal

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alain delon

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t’s the end of the 1950s in France. Paris is awash with the spirit of iconoclasm and the desire to set a dynamic new pace in a city picking itself up from the aftermath of the Second World War. For too long, American actors, like Gregory Peck and Cary Grant, with their meticulous suits and sultry personas, have clutched the hearts of critics and film goers across the globe in classic Hollywood roles. It’s time to shake things up and France is ready to set the pace with a new wave of actors who are on the verge of breaking the mould and carving a space for the birth of European modernity. Gentlemen, you’re witnessing the start of something fresh, dynamic and ever so catching. Photographs of Brigitte Bardot, with her curvaceous silhouette, plump lips and peachy blond chignon grace the covers of magazines, while Leslie Caron dazzles on the red carpet on the arm of JeanPaul Belmondo. Among the new string of French luminaries stepping into the

“Most men, when not sporting a tie, look infinitely better with at least the first button undone.” spotlight is the charming, chiselled to perfection Alain Delon: more than a match for counterpart James Dean across the water. He’s ready to rejuvenate an industry which has been replaying the same picture for years like a broken film reel. Fresh-faced and ambitious, Delon entered the industry at 25 following a string of menial low-paid jobs that helped make ends meet. Like many of the stars in the

‘50s, Delon had a complex upbringing and came from a broken home. Fame came with a flash; one minute he was cleaning plates, the next he was in front of the cameras faster than you can say ‘lumières, caméra, action.’ The directors and talent spotters behind ‘La Nouvelle Vague’ - the new wave movement - were quick to spot potential in the youthful Delon when he showed up in front of them for his big break after a close friend, actor Jean-Claude Brialy, invited him to France’s most prestigious film event, Cannes Film Festival. Scouts fawned over his mystifying charm and irresistible looks. For Delon, this was the ticket that changed his life. Within no time, Delon had stirred up a crowd of fans and gained recognition from critics overseas as the star of the shattering and overwhelming flick Rocco and His Brothers, directed by Luchino Visconti in 1960. The role gave Delon an international profile, which continued to grow throughout his career, despite never once shooting in the USA. He was a Frenchman through and through - no wonder he was the talk of the town. To his generation he came to epitomise

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Ge t the look 1

COTTON CHAMBRAY SHIRT J.CREW - £100 - MRPORTER.COM

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everything dynamic about the French film industry, and was even referred to as the male version of Bardot by some adoring fans. Three years later he starred in Visconti’s film The Leopard as the dark, handsome, princely officer Tancredi. It was from this point on that Delon became famous onscreen and off-screen for his unrivalled, remarkable sense of style - the latter, in a lot of cases, exceeding the former. Onscreen Delon immersed himself in his character, more often than not playing the role of the cool, collected and intensely suave male protagonist. Whether he had a gun, girl, cigarette or Panama hat in hand he managed to work any look or part effortlessly. Women longed to rub shoulders with him after they watched him brush up against wide-eyed bikini-clad beachgoers as the dark, noble viscount in his break-out film, Plein Soleil. In front of the camera he could be an officer, gangster, detective or aristocrat, and when off-duty he showed France’s young and bright how to loosen up with trend-setting casual wear. Unbuttoned Chambray shirts rolled up at the sleeve, pleated trousers, knitted

Shetland jumpers tied round the shoulders and two-piece flannel suits were key staples of his style. Pushing away from the tailored suits that had hung from the silhouettes of film-stars a decade earlier, Delon opted to sport suede and sheepskin bomber jackets with fur trims, trench coats with upturned collars and the occasional leather number, pairing casual cuts with tailored slacks, chinos and polished traditional shoes. His was continental style at its best, otherwise known, sartorially speaking, as “bon chic, bon goût” - the best of traditional British fashion teamed with French touches. With groomed, swept-back hair and a tanned complexion, Delon exuded an air of nonchalance that made both heads and cameras turn. Even today, his style is referenced as one of iconic stature; his is a goto dress sense for men after a well-kept look that is clean-cut, sophisticated and subversive.

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HYDE HERRINGBONE WOOL SUIT RICHARD JAMES, £1,225 - MRPORTER.COM

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The hundreds of snapshots taken of Delon at the height of his career have a mesmerising quality which is fitting considering this is a man who once said, “I like to be loved like I love myself.”

Emma Corbett

THICK KNITTED-COTTON SWEATER FOLK - £130 - MRPORTER.COM www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Autumn 2013

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Our Autumn / Winter Essentials

Fashion is a creature of habit, and we are now seeing a recurring crop of cold-season essentials. Choosing to embrace the British Heritage resurgence is the first step in mastering these pieces. Gone are the days of stigma - instead, corduroy, brogues and polo necks are shaping the future of style from memory lane. Pair all three together, play with texture, channel Brando and revamp staid tradionalism! A fine knit polo neck in dark hues is the first statement piece to emerge from hibernation, and thanks to Lanvin and Prada we’ve all been running to the gym in preparation. Pair the polo with textured trousers: thin wale corduroy is the new denim - inspired by craftsmen and thoroughly British. Wool is to winter what whisky is to Scotland, the perfect complement and- even better- homegrown. For a tailored look, go clean-cut with a matching blazer in this season’s grey tones. To finish we have the shoe that has become so much more than its function: originally designed for country attire, the brogue has evolved into a hybrid of modern gentleman and geek chic. We say stick to brown or black leather, and be sure to invest in practiced perfection with a handmade brand such as Church’s. Catie Elliot

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1.

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1.

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1: Hackett - £160 hackett.com 2: John Smedley - Judson - £345 johnsmedley.com 3: Loro Piana - Rollneck - £870 loropiana.com

3.


1. 1: Grenson - Stanley Leather Wingtip - £200 grenson.co.uk 2: Church’s - Diplomatic Black - £390 church-footwear.com 3: Wildsmith - Covent Derby - £355 wildsmith.com 4: John Lobb - Saunton - £695 johnlobb.com

2.

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1. 1: Vivienne Westwod - Kings Coat - £525 viviennewestwood.co.uk 2: Burberry - Camel - £1,795 uk.burberry.com 3: Richard James - Kings Coat - £985 richardjames.co.uk

2.

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1. 1: Versace - Eros - £60 uk.versace.com 2: Paco Rabanne - Pour Homme - £47 pacorabanne.com 3: Givenchy - Gentleman - £44 givenchy.com 4: Hugo Boss - Boss No.1 - £31 store-uk.hugoboss.com 5: Mont Blanc - Legend Special Edition - £56 montblanc.com 6: Paco Rabanne - Invictus - £56 pacorabanne.com

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THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL

T H E G R E AT H I S T O RY O F T W O G R E AT TA I L O R S UNITED THROUGH EXPLORATION

GIEVES AND HAWKES

EVERY EXPLORATION MISSION THAT LEFT LONDON BETWEEN 1870 & 1913 SET OUT FROM THIS ADDRESS.

T

he history of exploring since the early nineteenth century is inextricably linked to the history of the great house of Gieves and Hawkes. Or, rather, the great houses of Gieves and Hawkes – for the two tailors did not come together until 1974. The house of Gieves started life in Portsmouth in 1785. In those days, Portsmouth was one of the most important towns in England due to its natural harbour and the protection to the bay offered by the Isle of White. It was the perfect base for the Royal Navy, and it was here that Melchizedek Meredith set up shop. It was a canny time for him to do it: the British Admiralty had just issued new uniform regulations, and since most Naval Officers passed through Portsmouth more often than most towns, it was here that they came to have their clothes made. One of these men was to become among the greatest names of British history: Admiral Lord Horatio Nelson. Nelson wore his Meredith uniform at the Battle of Trafalgar; he also died in it.

In 1841, when Meredith had passed away, the business was bought by another tailor called Joseph Galt, who shortly afterwards went into partnership with James Gieve. Now, this Gieve was an enterprising chap, and during the 1850s he decided that, since officers serving in the Crimean war couldn’t come to him to get their clothes made, he would go to them. So he kitted out a yacht as a tailoring workshop and sailed it to the Black Sea. As you do. This James Gieve’s son, another James Gieve, inherited the business, as well as the spirit of adventure. As the British Empire expanded, the workmanship of Gieves spread to all the corners of the globe. While the Royal Navy ruled the seas, 98% of naval officer cadets wore Gieves uniforms. Meanwhile, in London, his clothes were being donned by such well-dressed chaps as the future George V. While all of this was going on, another tailoring house was busy making its indelible mark on history. Thomas Hawkes came to London in the early 1760s with £5 in his pocket. He apprenticed as a hatter, and soon came to the notice of high society, receiving a 24

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“WHILE THE BRITISH NAVY RULED THE SEAS, 98% OF NAVAL OFFICER CADETS WORE GIEVES UNIFORMS”


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warrant from King George III and Queen Charlotte. It wasn’t long before he was dressing the head of another great British hero, the Duke of Wellington. He went on to create three of the most iconic helmets for the British army: the Shako helmet, the Prussian-style spike-topped helmet, and the famous sola topee, otherwise known as the Bombay Bowler. This last hat was developed for the increasing numbers of British soldiers who were posted abroad as the Empire continued to grow. It was around this time that the two celebrated houses had a fateful union – not in sophisticated Victorian England, but in the wilds of deepest darkest Africa. Sir Henry Morton Stanley, an explorer, had been sent on a search mission to find Dr David Livingstone, another explorer, who had gone missing while on a mission in the Congo. After many months of travel, the two men met. Stanley doffed his Hawkes sola topee at the man he had spent so long searching for, and uttered the famous line: ‘Dr. Livingstone, I presume?’ To which Livingtsone removed his own hat in deference – a Gieves consular cap. There is a third element to this extraordinary story, and that is the history of the building where Gieves and Hawkes is now based, at No. 1 Saville Row. This was designed by the famous architect William Kent, and was originally home to Bryan Fairfax, who owned 5,000,000 acres of Virginia countryside, bequeathed to him by Charles II as thanks for supporting the Royalist cause. It then passed on to the Duke of Devonshire, and in 1870 became the headquarters of the Royal Geographical Society. This means that, in effect, every exploration mission that left London between 1870 and 1913 (when the building became the premise of Hawkes) set out from this address. These adventures were planned in the cavernous map room, where Victorian gentlemen would speak enthusiastically about their next trip, telling tales of strange and marvelous adventures to anyone who was listening from the gallery balcony. Dr Livingstone lay in state in that very room before his funeral. The history of these two brands, then, and the house that now unites them, is one full of exploration, adventure, travel and danger. It is these qualities which make Gieves and Hawkes such a historic brand, and one that epitomises Englishness. For there is no more British address than No. 1 Saville Row. Violet Hudson. www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Autumn 2013

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S E H C T A W S L E E K ,

E L E G A N T

A N D

D L Y P R O F O U N

Y U N - F L A S H

es . As fashion embrac intrusive timepieces , ese nt Th de n. ca de sig de of rt ys y in introve wa one are the da e th ds lea es tch ss rld of wa ality and truly timele minimalism, the wo present exquisite qu re ow t sh os s m ap re str fo d ek an ed on sle brands first r slim cases mount day’s pe to su , In in th le. sty tra ul of e ies elegance. Th into centur n sig de ry ra po sh , em this sleek arp ability to build cont you to swing with e ag ur co their unparalleled en we n red ‘iWatch’ lands d, disposable desig Before the rumou e. ev sle world of fast-pace ur yo r de e your watch un movement and loos Catie Elliot keep track of time. u yo re su e ak m , itself

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‘SWING WITH THIS SLEEK, SHARP MOVEMENT AND LOOSE YOUR WATCH UNDER YOUR SLEEVE’ 26

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CARTIER BALLON BLEU DE, 36MM YELLOW GOLD AVAILABLE AT CARTIER.CO.UK - £10,500

VACHERON CONSTANTIN PATRIMONY TRADITIONNELLE 14-DAY TOURBILLION PATEK PHILPPE MEN’S ANNUAL CALENDAR 5205R

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Photographer : Finn Bruce Illustrations : Alexander Ashby Stylist : Jaime Jarvis Hair & Makeup : Phoebe Parnell Model : Gabriel Hudson

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Boots – Barbour Rushton | Jacket – Hackett Arctic Parker | Jumper – Barbour Norton Polo Neck | Belt – Mulberry Rust Leather Oxblood | Trousers – Anderson Wheeler Green Moleskin Autumn 2013 • www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk


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Jumper - Barbour | Hat - Musto | Shorts - Chucs | Shoes - Purdey www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Autumn 2013

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Trousers – Gieves and Hawkes Dark Brown Moleskin | Bag – Mulberry Tan Leather Reporter Bag | Belt – Anderson Wheeler Crocodile Skin | Shirt – Anderson Wheeler Tan Safari Shirt | Cravat – Crombie Paisley | Boots – Purdey Daynite 32

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Shorts – Chucs | Jumper – William Evans Blue Chunky Knit | Hat – Hackett with Feather | Shoes – Docksteps www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Autumn 2013

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Scarf – Gieves and Hawkes | Hat – Bates London | Jumper – Musto | Socks – Purdey | Trousers – William Evans, Laksen | Boots – Purdey Buckle Boots Autumn 2013 • www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk


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Exciting video content updated weekly_

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Watch an interview with The Gentleman Explorer Sir Ranulph Fiennes Subscribe for Free to the GJTV Youtube Channel for more interesting videos.

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John Travolta is not only an exceptional pilot with over 7,000 flight hours behind him and qualifications on ten different aircraft types. He is also passionately interested in everything embodying the authentic aeronautical spirit – such as Breitling instruments for professionals. On his wrist is a Navitimer chronograph with its famous aviation slide rule, a cult-watch for all devotees of the conquest of the skies, and equipped like all Breitling models with a movement chronometer-certified by the COSC – the highest official benchmark in terms of reliability and precision. Welcome to the Breitling world.

For your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167

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“WELCOME TO MY WORLD”

NAVITIMER

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o this day the Middle East’s religious and political upheavals can be traced back in part to the consequences of the overthrow of Turkey’s Ottoman Empire nearly one hundred years ago. The demise of 400 years of Ottoman domination left a power vacuum which the British and French eagerly filled with their own interests in a radical re-mapping of the region at the Peace Conference in Paris in 1920. The Conference also witnessed the humbling of the Arab claim to independence, and a climb down by the British on a promise of a united Arab nation in reward for assisting them in defeating the Turks. Centre stage at the Paris negotiations

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was a 32 year old British Army officer, Lieutenant Colonel Thomas Edward Lawrence. He was powerless to better the deal on the table for the Arabs despite what he knew should have been their lot. His official role was as an advisor to Emir (Prince) Feisal, the charismatic leader of the Arab Revolt (as it became called) against the Turks, who Lawrence met first in 1916 at the beginning of his own involvement with the Arab cause. In some respects Lawrence was on a personal mission. He had fought for two years in the desert with the Arab irregulars and once led an attacking force on his favourite camel in the decisive battle to capture the sea port of Aqaba: a gallant

charge by the Arab ‘cavalry’ of horsemen and cameleers towards dismounted, dug-in Turkish infantry. At the crucial point in the fight Lawrence fired his pistol, blowing the head off his own camel. He spent the rest of the battle lying unconscious beside his dead mount. Lawrence had shared their privations and more, suffering considerable hardship on long, arduous camel journeys as he performed shuttle diplomacy with military expediency between the Arab and the British camps. He had been wounded in action and allegedly raped by the Turks when caught spying behind enemy lines. Luckily, he escaped before his captors realised his identity and the size of the


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reward on his head. He had championed the Arab cause, as ‘El Aurens’, lived and dressed as one of them, and nurtured their dream of freedom. Yet Lawrence had known all along that British policy, which he had a hand in formulating, was directly opposed to the sort of freedom the Arabs wanted, to the type of post-war state they believed they had been promised and were fighting for. Herein lay one of the biggest contradictions. Lawrence knew of the Sykes-Picot agreement of 1916, the secret deal by the British and French for a straightforward carve-up of Ottoman territory in the Middle East; but still he chose to believe in the freedom for the Arabs and in his promises to them. As he wrote in his autobiographical account of his role in the Arab Revolt Seven Pillars of Wisdom, ‘All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream in the dusty recesses of their minds wake in the day to find that it was vanity: but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dream with open eyes, to make it possible. This I did. I meant to make a new nation….’ The failure to make this happen became a betrayal that personally haunted him up to his untimely death in a motor cycle accident in 1935. He had been acting with duplicity towards the Arabs all along and the deceit wore him down; particularly when his fame spread around the world

with the careful choreographing of his highly glamourised role by the American film maker Lowell Thomas, who seized upon the romanticism of the Lawrence of Arabia story in the early 1920s. Lawrence wrote later: ‘I could see if we won the war the promises to the Arabs were dead paper. Had I been an honourable adviser I would have sent my men home, and not let them risk their lives for such stuff.’ This became woven into the legacy of a man famed in life, more so in death, as

has even been referenced by both sides in the current civil war in Syria. The outbreak of war brought in the Turks - with their extensive empire - on the side of the Germans. At the time, the 26 year old Lawrence was on his second season at an archaeological excavation at Carchemish on the banks of the Euphrates in northern Syria. There he was tasked by the army with mapping the Negev desert under the disguise of an archaeological expedition: the desert was strategically important in case the Ottomans crossed and threatened Britishheld Egypt. This first undercover mission, together with his fluency in Arabic and knowledge of the Ottoman provinces, caught the attention of the Arab Bureau in Cairo, a British foreign office-sponsored operation. Consequently, Lawrence was posted as an intelligence officer to the Bureau immediately upon commissioning. Lawrence was small in stature at five feet five and a half inches with a large head in proportion to his body, pronounced jaw and an almost effeminate, shy laugh: very different to the depiction of him by Peter O’Toole in the 1962 film Lawrence of Arabia; the tall, blonde haired, blueeyed, dashing young Oxford graduate fighting a clean war in a clean desert (by contrast to the slaughter and mud of Flanders) wearing white flowing robes,

‘He had been wounded in action and allegedly buggered by the Turks when caught spying behind enemy lines’ Lawrence of Arabia, known also as the Prince of Mecca, the uncrowned King of Arabia: archaeologist, scholar, author, intelligence agent, colonial civil servant, politician and an Imperial hero of the early twentieth century. Undoubtedly Lawrence would have become a distinguished archaeologist and authority on antiquities in the Middle East but for the outbreak of war in 1914. His thesis at Oxford University was on the military design of Crusader castles. He spent three months walking alone in Ottoman Syria conducting research; his published work on the most impressive of all Crusader castles Krak des Chevaliers

with gold embroided edgings, blowing up Turkish troop trains and riding a camel across alluring desert scenery all set to the stirring music of a haunting theme tune for good measure. No wonder the legend of Lawrence grew more by fiction than reality. He was more an intellectual and a scholar than a fighting man. He shunned the company of women (not that he preferred men) and would be found off-duty in Cairo either poring over maps of Turkish troop dispositions or translating some inscription from antiquity: not for Lawrence the bars and clubs frequented by fellow officers. By comparison with his

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peers, his behaviour was distinctly odd and unconventional. However, Lawrence was mentally and physically tough: since his early teens he set himself physical challenges and relished testing

‘Lawrence was small in stature at five feet five and a half inches... very different to the depiction of him by Peter O’Toole...’ his body to the limits. He had trained and conditioned his mind to overcome hunger, physical discomfort and sleep deprivation. He had a keen intellect, an enquiring mind and had already amassed a considerable insight into the Arab people, their language and culture. He had a knack also of questioning conventional military practice which, combined with his contempt for the caricature of the typical amateur British officer of the time, did not endear him to some senior figures. There is a traditional Chinese proverb ‘Heroes are made by the times’. Never more true than in the case of Second Lieutenant Lawrence still kicking his heels in Cairo in summer 1916, far removed from the war, interpreting information about the Turkish army’s movements and making maps while running his network of local informers. Two of his four brothers, Frank and Will had been killed in the trenches in France. Lawrence struggled with a growing frustration at the incompetence and conventionality of the British army and its leaders. He had not fired a shot yet in anger; the nearest he had come to ‘“old Johnny Turk” was interrogating recently captured prisoners of war in an airless Cairo office. He was, however, an adept political

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in-fighter and gradually eased his way into a position of trust and influence. He had views which he pushed through his mentor, D G Hogarth, a remarkable Oxford don, orientalist and arch imperialist, and these went through to ministers and the cabinet. Particularly marked was his fierce opposition to any suggestion of French influence in the Middle East; to some it appeared his hatred for the French was even greater than that for the real enemy. One of Lawrence’s ideas gained momentum: Arab guerilla fighters operating on the flanks and behind Turkish lines, attacking the widely dispersed and isolated garrisons linked by the strategic Hejaz railway as their lifeline, a target for disruption itself. Finally his chance came. In October 1916 he accompanied a delegation to a meeting with Arab leaders to enlist their support in the struggle against the Turks. Lawrence seized the opportunity, and more: he exceeded his brief when left to his own devices subsequently endorsing the choice of Prince Feisal, son of the Grand Sherif of Mecca who fired the opening shot of the Arab Revolt in June 1916, as a leader in whom the British would have confidence. ‘I felt at first glance that this was the man I had come to Arabia to seek – the leader who would bring the Arab Revolt to full glory’ he wrote later. Note the “I had come…”: this is Lawrence putting himself at the head of the Arab initiative as though he had been marked out for the role for years. The junior officer had broken away from his Cairo desk. He became a military strategist and effective field operative overnight, an inspiring leader and self-taught proponent of guerilla war with native forces; so much so that Seven Pillars was to make essential reading for officers in the Coalition force after the ousting of Saddam Hussein in Iraq in 2003. Yet there was more to enlisting Arab support than the intuition and promises of a junior Military Intelligence officer from British army headquarters- there was gold. By the end of the uprising the British had handed over vast quantities of gold

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bullion and coins as fighting payment to the tribes. Amongst other roles, Lawrence effectively became the paymaster of the British to the Arabs. It suited both sides: the British needed Arab support to fight the Turks on the flanks of General Allenby’s regular army fighting up the coast from Egypt towards Jerusalem, and Feisal needed British support, and money, to fuel the Arab Revolt and achieve their dream of freedom. There is little doubt that Lawrence made a significant contribution to the direction of the Revolt. He was the most renowned but not the only - Englishman (in fact he was born Welsh, and illegitimate, with the name Chapman) assisting the Arab cause until hostilities ended with the capture of Damascus in October 1918. As Turkey’s defeat drew nearer, the Zionists prepared to build their national home in Palestine also promised to them by the British government in the Balfour Declaration of 1917. But Palestine had been promised to the Arabs, so a campaign was mounted using Lawrence’s influence with Feisal to persuade the Arabs to accept a new compromise. Out of Lawrence’s lifespan of forty six years, his involvement in the Arab cause was only six. It culminated with two years working in the Colonial Office under Churchill, then Secretary of State for War and Air, and alongside Gertrude Bell who played a major role in establishing and helping administer the modern state of Iraq. In those years a compromise settlement finally was brokered which bettered the Arab cause. Lawrence regarded the final settlement as part redemption by Britain of her promises to the Arabs ‘So we quit the war-time Eastern adventure, with clean hands.’ He had helped establish the Hashemite dynasties in what is today Jordan as well as in Iraq: he was hailed a King maker. However, the Arabs did not have self-determination. The cracks in the Middle East had been papered over: disarray was to follow and the complexities of the problem have multiplied ever since. Emotionally exhausted, his nerves in shreds, Lawrence left the Colonial Office and the Middle East behind him and plunged into writing Seven Pillars of Wisdom, widely viewed now as more of a literary masterpiece than an accurate historical account of the Arab Revolt. Meanwhile, Lawrence’s fame was growing,

fuelled in part by a public need to believe in a hero and in a good cause out of all the years of war and countless millions of deaths: conditions impossible to create from the utter futility and carnage of the Western Front. Instead, the image of a clean-shaven, freshfaced Oxford scholar at the head of his gritty Bedouin tribesmen as the champion of the Arab cause was perfect and one he encouraged, wittingly or otherwise, with his own brand of individualism and eccentricity. At a private investiture King George V was quite put out when, without warning, Lawrence declined the decorations awarded to him of the Companionship of the Bath and the Distinguished Service Order until the pledges given to the Arabs during the war were honoured.

Ultimately, it was the reliving of his exploits through writing Seven Pillars which caused Lawrence to break down. He was troubled by his own failings, his illegitimacy, his treatment at the hands

‘He had trained and conditioned his mind to overcome hunger, physical discomfort and sleep deprivation’


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of the Turks and his sham promises to the Arabs; all came at a time of his growing international recognition which he neither wanted nor felt he deserved. So he turned away from the limelight and sought obscurity. He changed his name to Ross and in 1922 enlisted in the ranks of the newly formed Royal Air Force. With friends and influence in high places it was Churchill and Trenchard, the latter being founder of the new service, who facilitated his entry and sought to protect him. Anonymity, however, even in the precelebrity cult and digital era, was difficult to preserve. Word soon leaked and the front page headline of the Daily Express at the time announced:

"uncrowned king" as private soldier lawrence of arabia famous war hero becomes private Resentment among Lawrence’s officers on learning of Air Mechanic Ross’s true identity put the RAF in an embarrassing position. Lawrence was offered a commission by Trenchard. He declined. He had to go. Within a month he was out of the service and on the run from the newspapers.

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Using his influence in the War Office, Lawrence enlisted as a private soldier in the Tank Corps in March 1923 under the name T.E. Shaw and sent to the depot at Bovington Camp, Dorset. As an escape from the ‘muck, stink and desolate abomination’ of the Tank Corps he rented a cottage near the training area. Clouds Hill, now owned by the National Trust, was to become Lawrence’s sanctuary away from the glare of publicity. Lawrence suffered considerable hardship, punishment and humiliation in the barrack room. He loathed the Tank Corps and used all his high-level influence to get back into the RAF.


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‘Lawrence suffered considerable hardship, punishment and humiliation in the barrack room’ Eventually he succeeded, but only because he threatened to take his own life and in December 1926, as Aircraftsman Shaw, he arrived at an air base outside Karachi in what is now Pakistan. The driving force behind these attempts at hiding in the ranks were Lawrence’s enigmatic, emotional and highly complex personality. He claimed he needed peace from public scrutiny and the armed forces provided that. Yet he did not help himself; he led from the ranks and continued regular correspondence with prominent figures of the time, Churchill, Bernard Shaw, Baldwin the prime minister, on all aspects of foreign policy, defence and politics. At the same time he had a love of intrigue and not only published an abridged version of Seven Pillars under the title Revolt in the Desert, to high acclaim, but wrote also a book about the newly formed Air Force called The Mint. Small wonder when a revolt broke out in Afghanistan that Lawrence was accused of being behind it. The Government of Afghanistan requested his arrest, and the Government of India his recall. The press had a feeding frenzy which further enhanced the imperial cloak and dagger story: the highly decorated former Lieutenant Colonel (in addition to his other awards he had been recommended for the Victoria Cross for his role in one

desert battle) posing as a humble airman under an assumed name near the border to Afghanistan – surely he was playing a role now in the Great Game protecting British interests against Russian Communism? The manner of his secretive and premature return in January 1929 to English shores, sneaked off the side of a Royal Navy battleship onto a special government launch with a plain clothed detective, did little to stem the myth and legend.

This time, fortunately, he remained in the RAF in what became a calmer and happier phase of his journey through life. He became involved in the development of high-speed launches for rescue work of downed aircraft and pilots. Arabia was forgotten and he focused on seaplane tenders and the forerunner of the hovercraft until he left service life for

good in February 1935. Ten weeks after his return to civilian life he was injured in a motor-cycle accident near his Clouds Hill retreat in Dorset and died six days later. Even, perhaps especially, in death the controversy rages and the myths abound. Stories spread of a mysterious black car at the time of the accident, of assassination by a foreign power including disaffected Arabs, and even the suspicion that he was killed by British agents because of the secrets he held. In reality, Lawrence of Arabia, the stuff of legends, died in a straightforward traffic accident. Charles Blackmore is author of ‘In the Footsteps of Lawrence of Arabia’

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Steve Jobs s Computer Geniu Archie Norman Businessman

Rupert Murdoch Media Mogul George Soros Investor

ith Michael Acton Sm eur Digital Entrepren

l l a d e k s i r o h w e s o h T ...and won r

by Gideon Spanie

Nothing ventured, nothing gained is a mantra that is drummed into all schoolchildren yet surprisingly few people are willing to take risks in business.

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l l a d e k s i r o h Those w ...and won

F

ollowing the herd is a lot easier than trying something new and radical that could flop. Indeed, it is possible to make a handsome profit without taking many risks, but the likelihood is that business will lack flair or originality. To build a genuinely pioneering company requires innovation and a willingness to push boundaries because, ultimately, it means one is willing to risk failure in pursuit of excellence and profit. It is those business leaders who have risked all and won that capture our imagination because they tend to be pioneers and mould-breakers.

What’s more, as he admitted himself, being ousted from Apple at the age of 30 in a boardroom feud ended up helping him to take bigger, better risks when he returned a decade later. “It turned out that getting fired from Apple was the best thing that could have ever happened to me,” he recalled in his memorable Stanford University speech of 2005, “The heaviness of being successful was replaced by the lightness of being a beginner again, less sure about everything. It freed me to enter one of the most creative periods of my life.” It meant that when he came back to Apple, with the company on the verge of collapse, he brought tremendous focus and a passionate desire to launch new,

Rupert Murdoch ‘He may have been born into one of Australia’s wealthiest families and inherited newspapers from his father but, even now at the age of 82, he is never satisifed with the status quo’ innovative products, while at the same time being unafraid to kill off ideas that were not working.

The Gentleman’s Journal has selected five business leaders who have shaped different industries from computing to high finance, from high street retailing to media. Apple founder Steve Jobs was an easy choice for our list because of his remarkable achievement in building the world’s biggest company and reshaping at least three areas of our lives: computing, music and phones. Jobs was a visionary who, from a young age, could foresee the way that technology would shape the future. But, crucially, he was also focused on the practical execution of his ideas.

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Media mogul Rupert Murdoch got on well with Steve Jobs and shared a similar mindset about being a “changemaker”. Unlike Jobs, who was adopted, Murdoch inherited wealth as part of a leading Australian family. But, interestingly, the time that that the owner of The Sun, The Times and the Fox TV and film business ended up risking it all was during the recession of the early 1990s, when he had just launched his pioneering satellite TV platform Sky in Britain. His global business, News Corporation, was heavily indebted and he had to go to over 100 banks to get a refinancing, which saved News Corp. It is a reminder that tough economic times

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create disruption and risk – but also some of the best opportunities. Legendary investor George Soros recognised that when Britain was struggling to stay in the European Exchange Rate Mechanism in 1992. He took a giant bet against sterling on the basis that the UK would be kicked out and won. Sometimes the threat of financial collapse can be a great motivator as it creates a “burning platform” mentality, as Archie Norman, the man who turned around supermarket chain Asda two decades ago puts it. Unlike Jobs, Murdoch or Soros, who have an owner-manager mentality, Norman was a hired gun – the only man who applied to run Asda when it was on the brink of collapse and shareholders needed a saviour. What Norman saw was not only that risk-taking was required to turn around the business but also it needed to be ingrained into its culture to sustain Asda in the future. “Success requires continuous renewal of energy, an organisation that’s constantly arguing with itself, that is driving forward and never satisfied,” he recalled recently. Some say Britain lacks the entrepreneurial restlessness that Norman has identified, especially compared to America. However, there is no doubt that the recession since 2007 and the rise and rise of digital technology has encouraged a new wave of digital start-ups in Britain like Mind Candy, the company behind kids’ games website Moshi Monsters, founded by Michael Acton Smith.


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Steve Jobs s Computer Geniu Steve Jobs is arguably the greatest entrepreneur of the last 50 years, thanks to his creation of the iPhone, iPad, iPod and Mac, but it would be easy to forget the pitfalls he suffered earlier in his career. Jobs floated Apple on the stock market by the age of 24 but was fired at the age of 30 in a boardroom feud and spent a decade in the wilderness – although he managed to found animation studio Pixar, which showed he still he had the Midas touch. When he returned to Apple in 1997, the company’s future was bleak as it had a huge range of disappointing products and was losing $1 billion a year. “We were less than ninety days from being insolvent,” recalled Jobs. He took drastic and aggressive action, killing off 70 per cent of Apple’s product lines including the Newton personal digital assistant device. Many of Apple’s engineers were furious at what they saw as Jobs’ slash-and-burn tactics, which led to huge job cuts. “If Apple had been in a less precarious position, I would have drilled down myself to figure out how to make it work,” admitted Jobs to his biographer Walter Issacson. “By shutting it down, I freed up some good engineers who could work on new mobile devices. And eventually we got it right when we

moved on to iPhones and the iPad.” Indeed his focus and willingness to take a risk on just a few innovative, beautifully designed products paid off almost immediately, with the release of the acclaimed iMac computer in 1998. As Issascon says in his biography, Jobs had “saved Apple”, which went on to become the world’s most valuable company by the time of his death in 2011.

George Soros Investor

painful lesson that global financial markets could be more powerful than a central Bank. Soros has continued to make big currency bets and hedges but never quite on the epic scale of his sterling coup.

Rupert Murdoch Media Mogul

George Soros is the Hungarian-American financier who “broke the Bank of England”, making close to £1 billion with an extraordinary bet of $10 billion against sterling in 1992. Soros, then aged 62, was already a brilliant investor and speculator and had decided several years earlier that the European Exchange Rate Mechanism (ERM) was unsustainble. He built up his position against sterling over time, as he felt the British currency could not cope with being artificially yoked at a fixed rate to the German Deutschmark when the UK economy was cratering. So sure was Soros of his strategy that, in the words of Forbes magazine, “he was willing to bet the ranch”. He sold sterling “short” to the tune of seven billion dollars and bought the Deutschmark for six billion dollars and to a lesser extent bought the French franc. As a parallel play, Soros bought as much as $500 million of British shares while they were shorting sterling, figuring that equities often rise after a currency devalues. The Bank of England and prime minister John Major were forced to cave in as they learnt a

George Soros ‘the Hungarian-American financier who “broke the Bank of England”, making close to £1 billion’

Rupert Murdoch is always impatient for change. He may have been born into one of Australia’s wealthiest families and inherited newspapers from his father but, even now at the age of 82, he is never satisifed with the status quo. He is always taking big bets, by launching TV channels and newspapers and closing down or selling off ventures that don’t work like social networking website MySpace (bought for $580 million), free newspaper The London Paper or iPad publication The Daily. One of his most successful creations is British satellite broadcaster Sky, which he founded in 1989 when Murdoch had the vision to see how satellite would mean a revolution in TV. However, it could well have turned out very differently when recession struck in 1990 and sharply rising interest rates heaped pressure on Murdoch. By the end of 1990, he was forced to merge Sky with rival British Satellite Broadcasting and his parent company News Corporation, which owned a string of global newspaper, TV and cinema interests, was in danger of collapse under $7bn of debts. It took a huge refinancing involving more than 100 international banks, including Midland Montagu in London, Citicorp in New York and Commonwealth Bank of Australia, to save Murdoch. Afterwards he joked: “We are the pin-up boys of the banks.” Sky is

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l l a d e k s i r o h Those w Michael Acton Smith ...and won

‘By its fifth birthday this May, Moshi had 80 million users and had clocked up $250 million in gross retail sales worldwide’

now a £7 billion-a-year jewel in his media empire but he still only owns 39 per cent and his hopes of taking full control have been stymied by the phone-hacking scandal. His decision to shut down the News of the World and, later, to launch the Sun on Sunday showed he is still capable of big, bold moves.

Archie Norman Businessman Archie Norman has been dubbed the turnaround king because of the job he did rescuing Asda, a supermarket chain that was on the verge of bankruptcy in 1991 when he was the only applicant for the chief executive’s job. At the time, the former McKinsyite and Harvard Business School alumnus was the 35-year-old finance director at retail conglomerate Kingfisher, owner of Woolworth’s, Comet and B&Q. But Norman decided he would take a chance on saving Asda, which was saddled with around £600 million in debts, unfavourable store locations and poor margins. “The advantage of being part of a failing or challenged company is there is a mandate for change, a burning platform,” recalled Norman, who talked to local store managers on the ground, sorted out the supply chain and focused on improving Asda’s corporate culture. City investors backed a £350 million rights issue and the turnaround worked as Norman and his young team, including Allan Leighton,

who went on to chair Royal Mail, followed a formula of “being optimistic but having a fear of failure at the same time”. He was able to step back to a chairman’s role by 1999 when Asda was sold for £6.7 billion to Wal-Mart, making Norman and investors a small fortune. He did not enjoy as much success afterwards as a Tory MP and party grandee but has displayed all his turnaround skills again at ITV where he has tripled the share price since taking over as chairman in late 2009.

ith Michael Acton Sm eur Digital Entrepren Michael Acton Smith is a poster boy for the East London technology scene with his mop of unruly hair just like his hit Moshi Monsters characters. He launched the virtual world of Moshi in 2008 and has gone on to have global success, launching countless physical spin-offs from playing cards to branded spectacles. But Moshi happened almost out of desperation. A serial entrepreneur, who enjoyed success in his twenties when he co-founded online electronics retailer Firebox in the 1990s, Acton Smith had an idea ten years ago to create an online game called Perplex City but it didn’t catch on and the £6 million he raised from investors almost ran out. By 2007, he had just £600,000 left. “I decided to have one last roll of the dice,” he told me. That meant dropping Perplex

Archie Norman ‘Archie Norman has been dubbed the turnaround king because of the job did he rescuing Asda, a supermarket chain that was on the verge of bankruptcy in 1991’

City and switching to Moshi, an idea he had first sketched on a piece of paper a year earlier. His inspiration was Pet Rock, a simple US toy that was a hit in the 1970s, and Japanese cartoon characters such as Pokemon. “I realised kids loved virtual pets.” Acton Smith launched Moshi as a free site in April 2008 but it was hard to gain momentum and “the business was on its last legs” as the banking crisis hit. So he decided to charge for premium services in 2009. It turned out kids did want the extras and some parents were willing to pay (it’s now £4.95 a month). By its fifth birthday this May, Moshi had 80 million users and had clocked up $250 million in gross retail sales worldwide. Whether these five (very male) business leaders truly risked everything is an interesting question. With hindsight, taking a risk can look like a shrewd, calculated decision when the investment pays off – just as if it ends in failure it looks more like an ill-judged gamble. What is certain is that persistence, attention to detail and a willingness to adapt to changing circumstances were all crucial in ensuring their long-term success – even if might have meant short-term failure. Some say men are willing to take bigger risks than women and that there might even be biological reasons for that, rather than just social conditioning. But the rise of the internet, mobile and digital technology is having such a disruptive effect on every area of our lives that it feels like the next generation of risk-takers will come from more diverse backgrounds. Gideon Spanier is media editor of the London Evening Standard


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exploring: sir ranulph fiennes Sir Ranulph Fiennes is celebrated across the globe as “the greatest explorer to have ever lived”. Unlike some heady titles that come about undeservedly, there’s absolutely no case against this one being fitting. Since 1967 the exploration enthusiast has racked up 8 world firsts, and, at 69 years old, there are no signs of him letting go. Who better to question about the life of an explorer? And what does it take to accomplish the kind of personal and historical achievements that he has under his belt? summit of Mount Everest and you’ve got one hell of a life story.

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ir Ranulph holds the record for being the first man to reach both of earth’s poles and to cross both the Antarctic and Arctic Oceans. He’s also the only explorer to have led a team that circumnavigated the world along its polar axis, and discovered the lost city of Ubar. Add to these feats being the only person to complete an unsupported crossing of the Antarctic plus the title of being the oldest man in Britain to reach the

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On a hot, sticky morning in early July, Ran – as he likes to be known – arrived at The Royal Geographic Society a statue of calm, fully at ease in what couldn’t be a more pertinent location. For a man who has spent a great part of his life surviving in sub-zero temperatures, he can certainly handle the heat. Then again, his latest book, due out in November, is based upon the premise that the British like to exaggerate when reacting to temperature conditions. Entitled “Cold”, ‘It looks into the true meaning of the word because when people in England say they are ‘cold’ they really don’t know what being truly “cold” feels like,’ according to Fiennes. A quick glimpse at the stumps on Sir Ranulph’s hands is enough to put things into perspective. Perspective is something Ran clearly has with his extraordinary experiences. When you’re talking to a man who has faced up to polar bears, suffered a heart attack on Mount Everest and spent months in complete darkness in some of the world’s most inhospitable and unexplored

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“Perhaps the learned about that the key territories, it’s pretty hard to find common ground. How does one relate? As he sat in front of me there were faint signs of weathering to his complexion but, then again, he’s been as exposed to the elements as the cliff faces he has scaled. Looking a far cry from the hundreds of rugged, bearded, snow-covered photos that swarm the web, on this occasion he was clean-shaven, dressed in a double-breasted jacket and looking like a real English gentleman. Indeed, Ran has given his fair pound of flesh to the wild landscapes he’s traversed in his lifetime, namely to the crippling effects of frostbite. The ice has claimed his finger tops, half a thumb and part of his right foot, with his toes narrowly missing the chop on several occasions. He’s intrepid to say the least.


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greatest lesson I have breaking difficult records is ingredient is luck.” This hardened man has personally amputated his own frostbite-ridden fingers with a Black & Decker vice following a run-in with the cold on his solo trek to the North Pole in 2000. Back then he told the Daily Mail, ‘Yes, I did have to cut into my own bone, but it was very shrivelled - the whole thing was like the flesh of a corpse. I put on a dressing to mop up the blood. I did it for financial reasons. I would have had to pay £6,000 to have it done by a surgeon otherwise.’ It’s in moments like these that Ran’s stiff upper lip and dry British humour come into their own. If he is anything he’s traditional in every sense of the word: learned and strong-willed, yet down-to-earth, modest and rigidly unmaterialistic. This judgement was made within minutes of meeting him, long before he pulled out his ‘iPad thing’ (with

hand-written instructions on the back) and informed us that he chooses to sleep in his 4x4 when staying in London. When asked how he spends his downtime he remarked, ‘Well I report for duty and muck out the poo that my wife’s horses constantly produce and babysit our seven year old daughter.’ It’s reassuring to hear that he spends time in the mundane trappings of every day life, even if only for a fraction of his time on British soil. Ran’s longest and most historical achievement to date is his Transglobe Mission around the earth, which set his name in stone amongst his great predecessors, Amundsen, Scott and Peary, accomplishing the ultimate endeavour possible for man. His loyal patron and fervent supporter, HRH Prince Charles, coined the voyage ‘mad, but marvelous.’ For Ran, the journey holds

a significant place in both his memory and heart for it witnessed his first dip into the Polar Regions. As he recalls, ‘Round about 1972 we had a problem because in our industry fashion changed and we had to respond quickly so we decided to stop doing hot expeditions and move on to cold Polar ones. My wife [Ginny] decided we must start ambitiously in the Polar world by doing the first ever journey vertically around Earth’s surface, so I was sent to a library by her to find the best route. It turned out no

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half.’ Despite the setbacks caused by a massive heart attack on Mount Everest at 8,500 metres and a dangerous bout of exhaustion, Fiennes successfully reached its peak on his third attempt in 2009, raising a total of £3 million for cancer charity Marie Curie in honour of his beloved first wife Ginny and his sister and mother who all passed away from breast cancer in the space of 18 months. Fiennes’ determination and refusal to give in to his own failing health is witnessed at its height when he completed the first 7x7x7 (seven marathons in seven consecutive days on all seven continents) at the age of 59, having undergone a heart bypass three months earlier.

‘By the time I was 60 I didn’t like still having a phobia, which for me is vertigo, so to get rid of it I decided one should attack’ expert had ever done this before. As we had only ever spent a week in Scotland we didn’t stand much chance in either the Arctic or the Antarctic- so I went back to my wife and told her it was a stupid idea. She became quite unpleasant and, in turn, I went back to the library. We worked every day, every week unpaid for seven years to raise sponsorship for the three year trip.’ The 1,000 mile route took him and his team across the Sahara, through the swamps and jungles of Mali and over vast crevasse fields in Antarctica through to the inhospitable North West Passage, making him the first explorer to ever reach the world’s highest peak as well as the North and South Poles. ‘More people have been on the moon than they have around the face of the Earth so we are very proud of that particular record. It really has stood the test of time when everybody is doing expeditions. I mean, I became the oldest person to reach the top of Everest, but I know in a week’s time someone’s Grandma will be up there.’ While his success stories have made history they have been evenly matched with a fair share of failed attempts. Those that stand out include Ran’s eight failed search attempts to find the lost city of Ubar which he pursued over the course of 26 years, and two failed attempts at climbing Mount Everest.

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It’s poignant that when asked about his mindset going into an expedition Ran picks out these ventures to draw upon: ‘I spent 26 years looking for a particular lost city and the mindset was total determination and forensic curiosity. With climbing there was the mindset of wanting to get rid of my impairment. By the time I was 60 I didn’t like still having a phobia, which for me is vertigo, so to get rid of it I decided one should attack. I thought “vertigo- of course!- Everest”, but when I climbed Everest there were no scary drops so I went on to face the Gods of Eiger.’ Competition is another aspect of the nature of exploration that plays its part in the forefront of Ran’s mind as he embarks on an expedition: ‘What spurs us all on Polar expeditions is looking over our shoulders for the Norwegians and that has been an on-going concern, because only one group can be the first. Over my forty years of exploring the Polar Regions the Norwegians have bagged one half of the firsts and the British have bagged the other

Autumn 2013 • www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk

Now 69 years old, Ran is acutely aware of the fact that his health is not what it used to be. There are obvious signs that the harsh conditions he has faced in his career have taken their toll on him, but it’s the hidden effects of ageing that he is coming to terms with. Earlier this year the onset of diabetes led him to pull out of his latest expedition attempt, “The Coldest Journey”. ‘After the age of 47 your eyesight and hearing start to go. Meanwhile, lots of other things are going wrong with your body which you don’t know about so readily, but they are gradually closing in on you and you have to start working harder than you otherwise would. You have to start taking exercise every damn morning to combat the process of degeneration. I do two and half hour jogs twice a day. They used to be called runs but now they are more shuffles. The hills help but you don’t ever want to touch those lifts in big hotels!’ Having witnessed the reminders of the price one wrong step can pay when climbing


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hunger”, suggesting that there may be something addictive about travel to or near the Poles. For me, I call it a normal human urge. When once Man reached the moon, he now wants to tick Mars off the list. It’s the same thing.’ Emma Corbett

‘Ran has turned all of his energy towards raising the target of £6.2 million for Seeing is Believing’ Everest, with bodies littering the ascent path, one would think Ran might have reached his breaking point by now, but he’s intent on not giving up. It seems his two mantras, ‘keep plodding’ and ‘die high’, are as significant to him now as they have ever been. Despite all the books he has published about his career, Ran says he likes to collect his memories from his expeditions from the diary entries of his team-mates: ‘That way I can have something interesting to write about when they say “Ran’s a complete bastard,” rather than just recall the endless thoughts that went through my head.’ Modesty aside, he’s a complete natural when it comes to words and telling stories, but there are moments in talking to him when his wit and humour fall off the lines to clear the way for simple, serious dialogue when a subject needs it. Ran speaks most poignantly about three subjects: his team in Antarctica, his present efforts to raise money for the Seeing is Believing charity and, with tenderness, his late wife Ginny who was by his side when he kick-started his career: ‘I’ve got lots of regrets, including the fact that my wife of many years died. That’s my main regret.’

Despite being miles away, Ran’s weathered fingers are very much on the pulse of his team out in the Antarctic as they undergo the gruelling traverse to complete “The Coldest Journey”. The expedition will see them complete the last remaining great polar challenge without their leader after Ran was forced to pull out before they’d even hit the heart of the trip: ‘No man has ever succeeded in crossing the 2,000 mile expanse of Antarctica in the winter, not even the Norwegians. After five years of preparation, it’s gutting that a small slip-up can undermine the most meticulous preparation.’ This “slip-up” saw Ran contract frostbite after having taken his outer glove off in -50 degrees to re-attach his ski binding. As anticipated, Ran is less interested in revisiting the incident than reporting back on the his team’s situation out on the ice. Whilst talking in the calm of the Society’s walls, Ran’s comrades were at a standstill on the periphery of a crevasse field waiting for the sun to come out so that they could extricate their convoy of twenty-five tonne vehicles and move forward. His anxiousness came through in every word. Back in the UK, Ran has turned all of his energy towards raising the target of £6.2 million for Seeing is Believing, a charity which aims to combat preventable blindness in the developing world. This will add to the £15 million sum he has already accumulated for various causes over the years. Ran is aware of the fundraising challenge he faces on home ground: ‘People in Britain aren’t as willing to donate money to blindness as they are to cancer or other causes’, he says, but he’s approaching the task with as much determination as he would were he setting out to conquer the ice. Ran’s draw to Polar exploration is summed up in the moving words he published prior to setting off to Antarctica. ‘Sometimes I am asked what attracts me to Antarctica, this expedition being the third time (hopefully) that I will have crossed it. The Norwegians have a word “polarhullar” meaning “polar

To support ‘The Coldest Journey’ expedition and donate money to the Seeing is Believing charity visit thecoldestjourney.org/donate Check out the full video interview with Ranulph Fiennes online at www.thegentlemansjournal.com

Ge t the look Expedition Kit 1

CANADA GOOSE, AVIATOR TRAPPER HAT £250 - CANADA-GOOSE.COM

2

BREITLING EMERGENCY II £POA - 130 NEW BOND STREET 3

CANADA GOOSE, EXPEDITION PARKA JACKET £750 - CANADA-GOOSE.COM

www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Autumn 2013

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Art Discoveries T

he possibility of unearthing a major discovery is what drives the art world- one great find can change your life and make your name (and fortune). A discovery delights unsuspecting owners, makes rich canny dealers and cements the reputations of academics and experts. To pluck an object out of obscurity is to do justice to its creator. As art reflects the tastes and backdrop of the period it was made in, to replace it in its rightful context can inspire a whole new way of understanding it. Solving the mystery of an object’s creation also enables us to add pieces to the puzzle of art history that will hopefully unlock further discoveries and a greater knowledge of the past as a whole.

The ability to look at an artwork objectively, to think against the grain and evaluate its true worth, ignoring all the surrounding noise, can be a trying task and one that distinguishes the greatest and often the most successful in the art world against the rest. Dirt, light, humidity and poor conservation and restoration all have serious impacts on works of art which can impede the viewer’s ability to make an informed decision on the quality that lies behind. Dedicated years of study and research can pay off in a moment of instinctive judgment. When the Leonardo Da Vinci exhibition opened at the National Gallery in late 2011 many commentators were startled by the inclusion of a painting that had never before been on their radar; the Salvator Mundi. As there are only fifteen or so accepted Leonardo paintings, nearly all of which reside in the world’s finest museums, the appearance of this unknown picture caused instant global attention and interest. Where had it come from, and why had it only just been discovered?

It sold for just £45. However, in 2004, despite its heavily overpainted surface and layers of dirt, it was spotted and `rescued’ at a clearance sale by a consortium of American dealers, led by Norton Simon. Simon saw beyond the bloated surface and recognized Leonardo’s magic touch, but faced a significant battle to win round experts who have seen numerous claims of re-discoveries of lost masterpieces from the most famous hand in history. However, with its inclusion in the National Gallery’s seminal exhibition on Leonardo it was clear that Simon had won the doubters round. This fight was not in vain as in May this year it was revealed that the painting had finally been sold - at a price thought to be upwards of £100 million. Part of the excitement of working in an auction house is being witness to the extraordinary objects that land on your desk out of nowhere. My current boss and the international head of the Early European

Leonardo was known to have painted the subject for Louis XII of France and it was later owned by Charles I of England. The painting re-appeared in 1900 and then again in 1958, where, damaged from previous restoration attempts, it was cast aside and reattributed to a pupil of Leonardo’s.

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Sculpture Department at Christie’s, Donald Johnston, recalled one such story. A man had recently inherited his father’s house in Devon and during the redecoration had decided to install a loo in the cupboard underneath the stairs. During the clearing out of the cupboard they came across a bronze roundel, almost half a meter in diameter, that the owner suspected was a Victorian creation. The owner consulted his friend and art agent Michael Thompson-Glover, who wasn’t so sure. Michael contacted Donald, who couldn’t quite believe what he was being shown. The roundel was not one of a mass of post-industrial Victorian bronzes, but an original, one-off Renaissance tour de force. The vivacity of its surface and wonderful modeling of the figures instantly caught Donald’s eye. He was left shocked,

“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes” Marcel Proust


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‘As there are only fifteen or so accepted Leonardo paintings... the appearance of this unknown picture caused an instant stir’

wondering if it could possibly be worth as much as he thought it was. His research led him to uncover that the roundel (which depicts Mars, Venus, Cupid and Vulcan) was probably the work of Gian Marco Cavalli, a little documented sculptor working in Mantua in the court of the Gonzago family. That this Italian masterpiece was found under the stairs of an old house in the shires was explained by the discovery that an ancestor of the owner, George Treby III (d. 1761) had travelled throughout Italy on a Grand Tour, and must have had an eye for artistic treasures. The roundel was entered into a sale at Christie’s with an estimate of £1 million to £1.5 million, and was universally admired by experts, connoisseurs and collectors alike. On the day of the sale the roundel, which could have easily been consigned to the dustbin of art history, ended up selling for just under £7 million, the largest ever price for a work of early European sculpture, a record that stands to this day. For a dealer, discoveries can make or break their fortunes. They scour each and every sale, without discrimination, for “sleepers”: mis-catalogued works that are therefore

underpriced. In 2008, one such “sleeper” was uncovered in dramatic circumstances at Lawrences, a regional auction house in Somerset. Innocuously catalogued as a “French claret jug, 19th century” with an estimate of £100-200, the auctioneer and ordinary punters must have had a real shock when it rocketed up and sold for £220,000. The jug was in fact a rock crystal ewer, described as the “Holy Grail” of Islamic art that dates back to the Fatimid rulers of Cairo in the late 10th century. This didn’t satisfy the vendor though, who fought to get the sale annulled and then re-offered it at Christie’s where it made a cool £3.1 million - over thirty-one thousand times its original low estimate. But why do objects like this suddenly jump in value? It is still exactly the same object. Even if it is dated earlier or has an artist’s name attached, why does that make it so much better? The truth is that the art market is human even if the objects are not, and therefore it is deeply affected by a whole number of differing variables, not all of which are entirely connected to the object itself. Tastes and fashion change, the economy will rise and fall, marketing is key and the whims of just a few important individuals can go a long way to deciding what your object is worth at any given moment.

‘...described as the ‘Holy Grail’ of Islamic art that dates back to the Fatimid rulers of Cairo in the late 10th century’

Those that have delved deepest into art history and hunted the furthest and widest for its secrets have always stood to gain from their finds. This search is led by a love for objects. To discover you have to understand what you have found. It is those who ignore the accepted expertise and have the confidence to look through “new eyes”, that will be able to tell of real voyages of discovery.

Milo Dickinson www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Autumn 2013

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THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL

A PAIR OF THEO FENNELL

1 BESPOKE CUFFLINKS

A piece of Theo Fennell jewellery is a piece of jewellery like no other. Literally. Because every item is hand-crafted in Lapland by elves… almost. Actually, they’re all made by hand in Fennell’s Fulham workshop, where men who have been practicing their craft for decades sit bent over tiny pieces of gold and enamel to create miniature masterpieces. The bespoke cufflinks can be adapted to include whatever elements you want. Diamonds? Fine. White gold? Bring it on. A picture of your champion race horse, depicted in enamel? No problem. And what is more, prices for a bespoke pair of cufflinks are the same as shop prices, starting at around £7,000. So, if you can’t live a minute longer without carrying around a teeny, tiny portrait of your Sunseeker on your wrists, now you know where to go to get it. See theofennell.com for more details.

A RARE PAIR OF SMALL SOUTH

6 GERMAN WHEELLOCK PUFFERS FOR A BOY

Whether you’re an antiques collector, a firearm enthusiast, a history buff or even just fancy something new (old, rather) to go over the fireplace, take a look at these. This Pair of Wheellock Puffers are dated at 1586. Puffers (or Pistols) like these were a major development in firearms’ history, being the first self-igniting firearms. The Mechanism is operated by a spring-powered steel wheel turning against pyrite to produce sparks, and thus igniting the gunpowder. Apart from the striking look and shape of the Puffers, the pair are both beautifully decorated. Even the chattiest of house guests could be persuaded to shut up for a minute or two while examining them.

OBJE

Peter Finer will be exhibiting at The Fine Art & Antiques Show, October 25th - 31st ,or, if you fancy a suit of armour or some dueling pistols, see more of the collection at www.peterfiner.com

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GEORG JENSEN COCKTAIL

5 SHAKER WITH CRISS-CROSS PATTERN c.1930

If you fancy yourself as a bit of a Gatsby figure, this one’s for you. A silver cocktail shaker from between the wars, it conjures up Jazz Age glamour like nothing else. Plus, it was designed by a prince – Sigvard Bernadotte, son of King Gustav VI Adolf of Sweden. $8,500 from thesilverfund.com

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A PAIR OF PURDEY’S SALT AND

2 PEPPER SHAKES IN THE SHAPE OF 12-BORE CARTRIDGES

If you really, really can’t get enough of shooting, then these are for you. They’re salt and pepper shakes. In the shape of 12-bore cartridges. Yup. The perfect way to season your pheasant. Just don’t overdo it on the claret and start loading up your gun with them – that would give a whole new meaning to the phrase ‘peppered with bullets.’ Up for sale with an estimate of £150-£250 with Holt’s Auctioneers at their sale of Fine Modern and Antique Guns on September 19th. See holtsauctioneers.com for more details.

PROSERPINE BY DANTE

CTS SIRE

By Violet Hudson

3 GABRIEL ROSSETTI

One of the most iconic images of the preRaphaelite movement, Rossetti’s Proserpine is both a stunning picture in its own right and also symbolic of a turbulent and fiery relationship. The model for the picture was Jane Morris, the wife of William Morris, who in the 1870s began an affair with Rossetti. We don’t know whether they ever became lovers, but things must have been pretty intense, as Jane asked Rossetti to destroy all of her letters. A picture with a history: now that’s our kind of art. Up for sale with an estimate of £1.2 - £1.8 million with Sotheby’s at their sale of British and Irish art on November 19th. See sothebys.com for more details.

BACKGAMMON BOARD BY

4 ALEXANDRA LLEWELLYN

Backgammon is one of the quintessential British pastimes – the perfect way to while away a Sunday afternoon in between going for a long, frosty walk and gorging on a traditional roast. But just because it’s trad doesn’t mean it has to be stuffy, as this sumptuous board by Alexandra Llewellyn proves. Fun, naughty and beautifully crafted: what could be more British? (A rascally side-note: you can also get beskpoke versions featuring the lady in your life…) £2,100 from gift-library.com www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Autumn 2013

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MOLLIE DENTBROCKLEHURST A FEW OF MY FAVOURITE THINGS

Mollie Dent-Brocklehurst, owner of gallery Pace London, shares a few of her favourite things

1. My dog I couldn’t live without my dog, Mamba.

2. Art At different times of my life I have been drawn to various themes in art, from humour to passion to violence. Right now I feel inspired by art which contains simplicity and a certain kind of poetry, such as Hiroshi Sugimoto, Agnes Martin and Prabhavathi Meppayil.

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3. Pace London The place that I return to again and again for inspiration is my gallery, Pace.

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4. Hailes Abbey My favourite place is a little twelfthcentury church a few miles from Sudeley called Hailes Abbey, which contains some of the few remaining wall paintings from that period. It also has a grass labyrinth outside which I like to walk around in.

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5. My Family Home at Sudeley Being at Sudeley, my family’s home in Gloucestershire, has shown me how greatly things change over time-both physically and perceptually. Out of my window I see the ruins of the gothic banqueting hall, a remnant of the bloody English Civil War, now turned to a crumbling, honey- coloured stone swathed in roses. 6

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6. Bejing Olympics Opening Ceremony I think that the opening ceremony of the Beijing Olympics is one of the most culturally important things to have happened in the last decade.

Autumn 2013 • www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk

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SPECIALISTS IN ANTIQUE ARMS, ARMOUR & RELATED OBJECTS 38 & 39 Duke Street, St James’s, London SW1Y 6DF TEL: +44 (0)20 7839 5666 | EMAIL: gallery@peterfiner.com | www.peterfiner.com

A PROMINENT ASSEMBLY OF LATE 16TH AND EARLY 17TH CENTURY WHEEL-LOCK FIREARMS AND THEIR ACCESSORIES, ALL FORMERLY RETAINED WITHIN THE SAXON ROYAL COLLECTIONS, INCLUDING PIECES CARRIED BY THE TRABANTENLEIBEGARDE, THE ELITE NOBLE RETINUE OF CHRISTIAN I, PRINCE ELECTOR OF SAXONY, AND OF HIS SUCCESSOR FREIDRICH WILHELM, DUKE OF SAXE-WEIMAR. COMPRISING: A PAIR OF SOUTH GERMAN LUXURIOUS SMALL WHEEL-LOCK PISTOLS (PUFFERS) MADE FOR A BOY, DRESDEN, DATED 1586. A WHEEL-LOCK CARBINE FOR A MUSKETEER OF THE ELECTORAL GUARD, DRESDEN, DATED 1589.

A MUSKETEER’S POWDER-FLASK, CIRCA 1590. A SILVER-MOUNTED CARTRIDGE-BOX (PATRON) ENGRAVED WITH THE ARMS OF HANS GEORG VON WEHSE, HOFMARSCHALL OF SAXONY AND COMMANDER OF THE ELECTORAL TRABANTENLEIBEGARDE, CIRCA 1600.

A MUSKETEER’S BANDOLIER, LATE 16TH-EARLY 17TH CENTURY.

www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Autumn 2013

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THE INTERVIEW MICHAEL HESELTINE NATIONAL, PROFESSIONAL AND PERSONAL

In his prime, Lord Michael Heseltine cut a flamboyant figure with his coiffed blond hair, powerful oratory, and grand fortune (today estimated at £250 million) from Haymarket Media, the publishing group he founded in the Fifties. But Lord Heseltine is still very much the high-flyer. In October last year he produced his report - No Stone Unturned - setting out 89 recommendations for ways George Osborne and David Cameron could kick-start the economy, with 81 receiving the handshake of approval. We caught up with the Tory grandee to talk about British national will, his stance on the key areas of growth for Britain, his interest in trees and what he plans to do now that he has hit 80.

Interview: Harry Jarman | Words: Emma Corbett


In a recent interview you suggested that British people are significantly better off than previous generations and, as a result, have lost the will to drive themselves. Countries such as China and India have larger room for growth as they are still, relatively speaking, underdeveloped. Therefore is it a lack of national will pushing them? Or that Britain has less room for growth than the emerging markets? I didn’t say that was the case. I raised the question as to whether advanced economies would see their priorities in such stark terms as the developing countries. There is no comparison between the living standards of people in China and India to people living in the UK and equivalent countries. The fact is that a significant proportion of the population in advanced economies now have a choice of lifestyles, so it is worth asking whether they are exercising those choices by working shorter hours or other factors. When I started in the commercial world, people worked on Saturdays, and they worked a five-and-a -half day week. It used to be that going back much further they would have worked six days a week. Prosperity opens up options. There are many factors, like huge investment capabilities, which militate the other way. The question is: will people in advanced economies see the desire to work long hours and many days when set against leisure opportunities which they can afford to pursue? It is an interesting question, which is why I didn’t try to answer it too fully. If you could pick one of the proposals you put to David Cameron and George Osborne this year, which would be the most important single area for growth in Britain at the moment? I don’t ever accept the “single one out” question because the moment you do everybody who is not affected by it sits back and feels that the problem is going to be solved by somebody else when it simply won’t be. We have a very significant set of problems which everyone knows about; undertraining, inadequate education,

over-consumption, and low productivity compared to Germany and America. These are widely spread national phenomenon so I refuse to pick out something that will work as a headline as it gives a very misleading impression. Where would you say the UK economy is, in terms of growth, at the moment? Green shoots Do you think the British government is moving in the right direction with the economy and what would you focus on growth–wise in the next year if you were still in the Cabinet? Well, I think it is still moving in the right direction. I buy the argument that we inherited the problems from the last government; that there is no money left and that we have to try to restore financial balance which the government is doing. It is a long-term, painful process but it is necessary. I had eighty-nine recommendations in my report, and since I delivered it many more have come to light which I couldn’t deal with. We need an overall national growth strategy which applies comprehensively across the many aspects of our economy.

“We need an overall national growth strategy which applies comprehensively across the many aspects of our economy.” There has been a lot of talk about certain British industries being revitalised as key British export sectors, such as the fashion and car industries. Do you think the phrase “Made in Britain” has a strong selling power overseas, and if so do you think government bodies and trade associations are doing enough todo justice to it? I don’t think the name “Made in Britain” sells. It is quality of product and price that sell. Thinking that you can produce non-competitive products under the guise of the flag is misleading and dangerous. Do I think that small businesses are as effectively organised as they are overseas?


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No I don’t, and I think it is a weakness in our performance that we do not have sufficiently effective trade associations - we have over 3,600 of them which is far too many - and we do not have a locally based place base representation of the private sector which other advanced economies do. Many people know you as a politician but you have a very successful career in business as publisher. After carrying out your report on growth and re-generating British cities, if you were a young twenty-something today would there be a particular sector you would go into and if so why would that sector be particularly attractive to you? Once again, I can’t narrow down to one sector or guide someone because everyone is individual. You have to know what your interests are, what your skills are and above all what you like. My advice to people is to tell them to think about their life and what they want it to look like. People should ask themselves: ‘Do I look forward to Monday morning?’. If you can find a career where the answers are positive then go for it because the idea of spending most of one’s life in a career that bores you seems to me like a pretty unattractive way of spending one’s life. Fulfilling yourself and hopefully achieving satisfaction in doing it would be very high on my list. You can’t turn it into specifics. Publishing has seen very many changes over the last decade with

“Thinking that you can produce non-competitive products under the guise of the flag is misleading and dangerous” The message is exactly as it was when I went into publishing fifty years ago – the quality of the product is what matters and serving your market with what the audience wants to the best of your ability is the purpose you have to put your mind to. Is it a growth industry? It is an exponential industry: you only have to think of what is happening with the web and mobiles and all the processes available for disseminating information to realise that we have only just begun to scrape the surface. When you realise that there are 7 billion people out there collectively growing 3% wealthier per year, you understand that the additional annual wealth creation, the explosion of

“When you realise that there are 7 billion people out there collectively growing 3%+ wealthier per year you understand that the additional annual wealth creation, the explosion of education and the elimination of poverty at a faster rate than ever in history adds up to the post extraordinary potential opportunity.” the growth of technology. Do you think publishing is a growing industry going through substantial change or a declining industry due to less demand for print? Significant areas of print are obviously subject to the technological revolution. It varies from sector to sector and company to company but there is a migration to the web and electronic communication.

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education and the elimination of poverty at a faster rate than ever in history adds up to the most extraordinary potential opportunity. Some people say it is harder to start your business today and get your money on the property ladder. Would you dispute this? There is far more money around than there ever was then. For women in the 50s it was

Autumn 2013 • www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk

far more different to get a job other than as a secretary - now there are huge professional opportunities, and quite rightly so. You only have to look at the statistics through the professions to see the rate at which women are catching up on the gender gap. You only have to look at the number of small companies that have started up this year – huge numbers! In the last 25 years the creation of small businesses has been one of the most exciting aspects of economic development. You are known for your love of trees; what is it about trees that you love and do you have mainly plant British species or imports? There are very few British species, so of course a huge proportion are imported from different parts of the world and we import from seed and grow them over here. That has been the case for many years, particularly the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. I was fascinated by gardening from the earliest days I can remember. When I first went to school, the head teacher gave every new boy a square yard of mud and a packet of Virginia stock seeds and I methodically covered my square yard with seeds and a month later I had a wonderful blaze of colour and I have been a gardener ever since! You are eighty years old and you haven’t shown the slightest signs of quietening down, the question is what next? [Laughs] I haven’t got the first idea!


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Swiss movement, English heart

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www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Autumn 2013

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a t s re

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MAYFAIR

WILTONS

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n ra

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Part of London’s culinary history, Wiltons has held on to its traditional values- refreshing in a city where venues all too often compromise good dining with ephemeral innovations.

D

escribed by Loyd Grossman as ‘the temple of British cuisine’, the famous seafood restaurant on Jermyn Street began life in 1742 as a stall in the Haymarket selling oysters, shrimps and cockles, run by one George William Wilton. It then moved around St James’s for the next 50 years, it wasn’t until 1840 that it became a fully fledged restaurant, with a site on Ryder Street. In 1884, it received its first Royal Warrant, as Purveyor of Oysters to Queen Victoria. One was amuse-bouched, obviously. At the height of the Second World War, 64

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the restaurant was bought by the Hambro family. The legend goes that Olaf Hambro happened to be eating oysters alone at the bar as a bomb landed on nearby St James’s Church in Piccadilly. As the dust settled, the owner, a Mrs Bessie Leal, folded up her apron and declared she’d had enough and was selling up. Olaf promptly asked for the restaurant to be added to his bill, which cost him about £1,200. ‘It’s a true story,’ says Michael Stokes, house manager of the restaurant for 15 years. With establishments such as Cliveden, The Royal Crescent Bath and Lainston House under his belt, he seems very in touch with the history of the place. ‘The very best of British society has dined here, from British and overseas royals to lords, ladies, celebrities and politicians. In the old days it was a princess one night, the Aga Khan the next.’ But old-school discretion remains vital.

Autumn 2013 • www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk

‘A senior politician came here with an ex-Prime Minister. He said “the wonderful thing about Wiltons is that the waiter isn’t tweeting that you are here while you are still having dinner” ’. However, with a £38 three-course lunch menu and plans to refurbish and brighten up the bar in January 2014, change might gradually be coming. They have already relaxed their famous jacket and tie dress code. As City gentlemen started to dress down, they did away with ties, with the jacket policy going in May this year. Conversations on mobiles are still a no-no, though. And it’s obviously the food as well as the history which draws people here. Wiltons is famous for fish, shellfish and game and head chef and Yorkshireman Daniel Kent knows his quintessential British cooking. Using the finest produce available, he recreates the classics but


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also experiments with dishes such as the superb stilton soufflé. Other standouts include the oysters, the Dover sole and the dressed crab, but ‘new’ dishes such as the traditional Sole Véronique are also excellent. They cook their grouse the classic way, à l’anglais, accompanied by game chips and a jus. As other restaurants were doing away with their carving trolleys, they cleverly reintroduced theirs and it’s been a talking point every since, with lunch options ranging from Romney Marsh lamb on a Monday to Loch Duart Salmon Coulibiac on a Friday, as well as various evening cuts. The wine list is suitably grand, covering both Old and New Worlds. The dining room is a carpeted and windowless 100-cover space with autumnal colours. The Oyster Bar seats eight and the first dining area beyond is the Front, containing the most popular

spot, table five. It’s one of several booths with green velvet bench seats and dark wood dividers topped with glass, which still read Bury Street, the restaurant’s previous home. When they moved in 1984 to Jermyn Street, the clientele feared change, so they brought all the old fixtures and fittings with them. It is also the best table in the restaurant for seeing everyone coming and going, which Michael believes is important here. The directors collect art which is dotted about - at the end of this section is the sizable Summer Life on the Thames by Herbert Sidney. Another notable painting across the way in the next area, the Middle, is The Ambassador’s Wife (looking like she is enjoying a large spoonful of blancmange), by Hammersmith artist Ruskin Spear. In this section, table 19 used to be James Goldsmith’s preferred spot. Beyond these tables lies the Green Room, almost partitioned off with banquette

seating and available for private hire. At the end, the private dining room is a separate space which seats up to 20 guests. Diners are known to ask the waiters to leave and close the inner doors to discuss the business of the day, and you get the feeling that there are plenty more juicy conversations to come in the years ahead here. Feature by Marcus Waring, managing editor at Ten Group. Ten is the world’s largest concierge provider, with professional lifestyle managers on hand 24/7 to help you get the most out of life by taking on anything that you don’t have the time or expertise to do yourself. Ten’s members receive a complimentary port with the cheese course and/or a complimentary dessert wine with dessert at Wilton’s when booking through us. Please call 0845 02 05270 or look at www.tenlifestyle.com for further details.

AS THE DUST SETTLED, THE OWNER FOLDED UP HER APRON AND DECLARED SHE’D HAD ENOUGH AND WAS SELLING UP. OLAF PROMPTLY ASKED FOR THE RESTAURANT TO BE ADDED TO HIS BILL, WHICH COST HIM ABOUT £1,200! www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Autumn 2013

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‘The best advice we’ve been given from Gibbs for first time buyers is to research the wine’s historical performance (use Liv-ex or Cellar Watch), know the market price, and lastly build strong relationships with at least 3 respected merchants’ 66

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Wine Investment

Liquid Gold

We speak to Justin Gibb, director of Liv-Ex, a global marketplace for professional buyers and sellers of wine. He distills his experience of wine as alternative capital and offers industry secrets for those wanting to invest, which by his notes should be every one of us who drinks. Guilty are we.

A

s wine investment re-emerges onto the sepia pages of the FT, we ask: is this market really a safe haven?

Amidst retail chaos and currency trembles you’d be forgiven for believing so. If you’re comparing the wine market against others it shows a good 12% return in the long term, which is why the press often report it outperforming stocks, bonds commodities and property. You could say wine is “lower”risk or purely suggest that- as with all investments- timing is key. The catastrophic 25% fall of Bordeaux prices in June ’11 draws attention to the short-term risk involved for the investor. You can, however, be certain of taking home 100% of the profit; wine is wonderfully exempt from capital gains tax. The global outlook for 2013 makes for a strong read, many traders seem certain of the US market returning to strength. In addition, a few are hailing the cash injection from China, where the IMF reports a predicted 8.2% growth. This would mean strong market growth, but as history dictates, it could be decidedly unsustainable. From 2008, when the region started to invest heavily until today, we have seen a 25% fall; the result is a market with a history of fluctuation. China could yet again illustrate the uncertainty of wine as an alternative capital. Here, Justin offloads a wealth of know-how. For those looking to the future, open your mind (and nose): the market will broaden and as a consequence price transparency will become the norm. Investors will lead with

independent views and merchants’ margins will fall. If you read elsewhere that New World wines are coming into their own, bear in mind that the Old World dominates with 98% market share: look for top end New World wines. Bordeaux is certain to maintain pride of place, accounted for by both quality and production. There is, however, much to be learned from the example of Bordeaux En Primeur, which showcased the relative value of wines; the price of Primeur reached astonishing levels, thus casting people away to other regions. It seems the attitude towards wine investment shifted here as investors developed a better understanding of the risk involved. The best advice we’ve been given from Gibb for first time buyers is to research the wine’s historical performance (use Liv-ex or Cellar Watch), know the market price, and lastly build strong relationships with at least 3 respected merchants. The order in which you go about these will also affect your success; knowledge here is precious. Luckily for most, the common background of an investor is usually a drinker/collector who buys in bulk, more than (shockingly) is consumable. The market is kind, and without even realising they reap the benefit of the investment. Thus research shows that 85% of fine wine buyers, whilst being passionate about the production and drinking process, think predominantly with their profit cap on. An investor is born! Catie Elliot

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in conversation with lewis hamilton By Harry Jarman

Do you do a lot of looking back? With Niki Lauda who’s older, who’s a part of Mercedes as well… it’s obviously a completely different sport in terms of technology but do people like that pass on wisdom?

It’s a big move to Mercedes from McLaren. You’ve been with them since however long- despite a few issues with Mercedes you seem really happy there. How do things differ between teams in this scenario? Well, I never like to compare because where I’ve come from, it’s like my family. They’re the people who got me to Formula One. I’m in a team now where we haven’t had as much success, and we’re just as hungry- if not more- to get that success. I’m looking forward to the journey. Did you look at Mercedes and think, ‘this group of people have got a lot of potential behind them’? LH: It wasn’t an easy decision to leave the team I started out in. I had to look at the different aspects and there had to be positive reasons to go. I’ve been with Mercedes since I was thirteen. They were a big part of me growing up so I didn’t feel too alien.

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Yeah, they’re just out-and-out drivers from back then and people like Niki have very unique advice to give. They’re ballsy racing drivers. They raced when it was a lot more dangerous and it was just them and the car, without all the politics or all the other media that surrounds it. They don’t mess around, they cut straight to it, and that’s the cool thing about Niki. He’s very, very blunt but he understands. Ross Brawn’s got an amazing record behind him- do you think there’s still more to come with Mercedes, that it’s growing as a team? Absolutely - we’re getting fairly decent results now but it is absolutely very, very early days, we really didn’t expect to be where we are this year. What’s it like to win your home Grand Prix? It’s unlike anything else. What’s the difference between racing in Silverstone and in Monaco?

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Monaco is cool. In Monte Carlo you’re surrounded by glitz and glamour - and it’s a race you always watch on TV and always want to win. So when you do win it’s very, very special. But your home Grand Prixthat’s the one in the country you grew up in- you’re with your home fans. All the Brits turn up there, turn up in the thousands, they stay out even in the rain. So much British pride… the support you have there is ten times, a hundred times more than you’d have anywhere else. And so when you do win you feel like you’re carrying those people with you and you’re taking them on a journey. You’ve always talked about Ayrton Senna being one of your idols - is he still your number one in Grand Prix? Yeah, Ayrton was my favourite driver. When I was growing up, people used to buy me videos, I used to come home from school and spend most of my time watching Ayrton drive and aspiring to be him. What do you do to relax? I do a lot of sports. Just chilling out with friends, normal stuff that most people do, playing a bit of music, having a drink every now and then, partying… Lewis is an ambassador for the Swiss watch brand IWC Schaffhausen and IWC are the official engineering partners for the Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula One team.


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memories of an icon, who i call daddy by tom hunt

memories of an icon, who i call daddy by tom hunt


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T

o my brother Freddie and I he was simply Daddy, who referred to us affectionately as “my little soldiers” and more specifically as “Tompty” (that’s me), and “Flippy”, as in “Flippy Fred”. To you, however, he was something very different indeed: James Hunt, the Formula 1 playboy and now legend who became World Champion in 1976, against all the odds, in a gripping battle with reigning World Champion Niki Lauda, who drove for Ferrari at the time. Never appearing to take life too seriously, my father was what all men with even a slight interest in cars aspired to be, and who most if not all heterosexual young ladies would want to be with.

Grandpa had gone before him and where I was lucky enough to be schooled as well. Having spoken to my grandparents about what he was like as a boy, apparently it was clear from a young age that there was something special about him; a clarity of vision that allowed him to always get what he wanted, if he wanted it bad enough, and a glint in his eye that made him that little bit different from most other children. I think Grandma even went as far as describing him once as “an odd little fellow” – kind of endearing if you ask me. At school he was one of those boys who was annoyingly good at almost everything,

‘my father was what all men with even a slight interest in cars aspired to be, and who most if not all heterosexual young ladies would want to be with’ and had the looks to go with it. He was a phenomenal long distance runner, despite an already maturing cigarette addiction (apparently on occasions when he’d pulled out a big enough lead he even had time to stop for a crafty one en route). He was a great tennis player, good enough to compete

As you may have heard, the story of that season is about to be re told on the big screens, as Ron Howard’s “Rush” reaches the cinemas this September. I’m pretty confident in saying I think you’ll enjoy it; Ron and his team have done a superb job overall and although, for me, it’s clearly not Dad up there on screen (there is quite a focus on his more arrogant side and not enough of the kindness, charm, wit, cheekiness and charisma that allowed him to get away with that... most of the time) it’s a great watch and better than I was expecting. James Simon Wallis Hunt was born on 29th August, 1947 in Belmont, Surrey. After attending local primary and prep schools he went off to Wellington Collage, where www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Autumn 2013

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at junior Wimbledon, and also played top level county squash- which I believe he carried on after his school days. Being the son of a stockbroker and privileged with a first class education, he was originally set on becoming a doctor. That changed very quickly however after he was taken by a friend to watch a club race at Brands Hatch (I think) for his 18th birthday. Apparently, to the dismay of Grandma and Grandpa, he announced at the supper table one evening soon after that he was going to become a racing driver, and Formula 1 World Champion at that. After spending three years building his own race-worthy mini he finally got a chance to join a grid - almost – as he was stopped by the scrutineers for there being too many irregularities with the car. Apparently, one of the rules stated that there must be a passenger seat but as Dad had financed the build with paper rounds and milk-delivery type jobs he was short on cash, and he simply strapped a

‘At school he was one of those boys who was annoyingly good at almost everything, and had the looks to go with it’

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‘He was a totally dedicated father to us and we spent hours and hours together’ deck chair down in the interests of cost, thinking that would be acceptable. Nice try Dadda! The years to follow are well documented, moving through junior categories such as Formula Ford and Formula 3 before he was taken on by none other than Lord Alexander Hesketh or as Dad called him, ‘The Good Lord’. Competing in Formula 2 with limited success they then moved into Formula 1 and weren’t taken too seriously by many of the other teams. But why would they? If a team entered the grid today with not a single sponsor on the car, totally privately funded as if it were a hobby, and offering lobster and Dom Perignon in the pits I don’t think I’d feel threatened either. So it came as a bit of a shock to most when they took their first championship win in Zandvoort in 1975- suddenly people began to pay more attention to them and when Lord Hesketh pulled out at the end of ’75 due to financial constraints, McLaren took a punt and hired Dad – it paid off that following season.

Reading up on those days and watching all the old footage on YouTube, which I urge you to do – there are some very amusing clips – does make me a bit sad that I wasn’t around to enjoy those glory days but I do have my own memories that I hold onto tightly. My earliest one is building a climbing frame in the garden in Wimbledon with him. He was totally dedicated to us and we spent hours and hours together. A lot of that time was spent mowing the lawn which was definitely a passion- if not obsession- of his; being a Virgo, as I am, the stripes MUST be perfect and the borders trimmed! His other passion after retiring from racing was budgerigars; he would spend hours in the aviary that he built in the garden and had nearly 300 at one point, some of which were award winning (of course). We spent a lot of time on Wimbledon common as well; feeding the Canada geese was something we did regularly. We would fly kites, too, and we even had a small radio-controlled plane but I think I crashed that pretty quickly. Other fond memories include the long hours he spent in the billiard room on Friday nights with the likes of Pink Floyd’s

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lead man Roger Waters and Jimmy White, UK Snooker Championship winner in 1982, who I’m told did actually have to pay attention when playing Dad. One of my favorite stories is one told by a close friend of Dad’s, Richard Northcott; when they racked up a frame a bet was placed - £100 for the first person to reach 100 points. Richard broke off leaving the cue ball close to the baulk cushion and Dad followed up with an opening break of 98…needless to say he was £100 better off pretty quickly. There was also the family African Grey parrot, Humbert, who was very much part of our household. Over the years (there were 40+ in the end) he had picked up various snippets of speech such as asking for an apple core, saying ‘bye’ when we went out or ‘night all’ when we all went up to bed. But the best line he had which he tended to save for unfamiliar visitors was ‘I’ll tickle your arse with a feather.’ This always provided plenty of amusement when seeing the reaction of the unsuspecting guest! There is no memory I’d want to change or erase of my father. Yes, he had his moments he’d probably wish to forget if he were around today, and of course he and mum divorced in 1989 which is never ideal nor easy for anyone involved. But none of us are perfect, and I’m extremely proud of him and feel honoured to be so closely associated to him. In respect of that honour and to preserve his legacy my brother and I will soon be announcing the launch of the James Hunt Foundation. To support that we have already launched the official website – www.JamesHuntF1.com – as well as a line of retro motorsport inspired apparel, of which some of the proceeds of website sales will be donated to the Foundation. Our intention is to build a lasting brand that will honour his legacy for many years to come and solidify his unique and deserved place in British heritage. Tom Hunt

facebook.com/JameshuntF1 @TommyHunt76

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t r av e l luxury exploration & horseback in kenya


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‘If you’re day dreaming in front of the Discovery channel, it’s time to call Momentum Adventure’

momentum adventure T its pure fire and ice adventure

he adventure of exploration is a primal and instinctive desire that resides deep within the psyche of many a man. What defines a man and a sense of masculine identity is unique to every individual. However, there is nothing quite like convening with nature and getting back to the purity of the human experience in the big outdoors to inspire and replenish the soul. The word “luxury” has become an

overused adjective, particularly in the travel business. So much so, in fact, that its meaning is becoming elusive and subject to evolving definition. Dinner party travel conversation that is smattered with “private jet” or “yacht” and the ubiquitous term “luxury resort” – it’s all become rather pedestrian and easily accessible to the average punter with a healthy bank balance.

If you have ever heard a person speak with passion and conviction about a real adventure over a glass of Pétrus, you know that what you are hearing is original- their own personal story of exploration. If you’re daydreaming in front of the Discovery channel, it’s time to call Momentum Adventure. It is entirely possible that you will have the chance to say “I’ve been to the South Pole”. Or you may likely be regaling your dinner party guests with genuinely excited anecdotes about trekking through the dense rain forest of Nootka Island in British Columbia, or ascending Mount Khuiten in Mongolia. Momentum Adventure was founded by Matthew Robertson whose dream and desire was to share his passion for adventure, travel and exploration with likeminded individuals. He has surrounded himself with a team of experts who create and facilitate experiences which are meticulously planned to maximise authenticity and spontaneity, with no compromise to safety. Who wouldn’t feel comfortable knowing you’re with ex

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s e r i u q e r e r u t n real adve maximum effort

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British Commando David Pearce who is an expert in arctic and mountain warfare? And being in the mountains with Johan Arnegard is made all the more soothing when you know he is possibly the most qualified alpine mountain guide in the world, a Casualty and Emergency- trained ex-officer of the Swedish Special Forces and National Alpine Rescue Team who also has a PHD. Where and how to begin your life as an adventurer and explorer is not always clear, so Momentum Adventure have created destination theme-led programmes that are designed to offer participants the very best explorations which still leave the opportunity open for the experience to evolve spontaneously. Vancouver Island in British Columbia is a prime example of combining the ocean and the mountains into one surf-and-ski experience. This particular trip is lead by Jan Neuspiel who is a pioneer of skiing in unusual

places like the Himalayas, and by Raphael Bruhwiler one of Canada’s top pro surfers. Highlights include fishing on the Megin River, heli-skiing on Rugged Mountain, camping at the toe of Rugged Glacier, and dropping by rope to spectacular and remote white sand beach. If you like adventure but you also fancy yourself as a bit of a petrol head, then joining the Momentum Adventure team for the Baja 1000 off-road rally might be just the ticket. But you’ll have to be quick; there is only room for a single, exclusive team of 6 for November 2013. Your vehicle will be the 121 Baja Challenge Car with a Subaru 4-cylinder engine, 18 inches of suspension shock, Eiback springs and suspended racing seats all gliding over BFGoodrich tyres. If you feel it’s too late for you to start planning for this particular adventure, Momentum relish the raid-meets-rally experience at other times of the year on the Baja Peninsula, the spectacular collision

of colour and terrain that makes for an adrenalin rush like no other. If you’re time-poor and want to sample a flavour of what adventure is all about, then the limited edition long weekend expeditions to Iceland may be just the solution. In this otherworldly terrain, you’ll find yourself descending into the magma chamber of a live volcano in a helicopter and cooking steaks over a lava hole. You’ll thrash a super jeep off-road as you cross rivers and black sand beaches before learning to ice climb on a glacier tongue with Thor Kjartansson, who has previously guided Tom Cruise. Then there is the heli-skiing, snowmobiling and soothing your adventurous muscles in a

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thermal spa. It’s an adventure that’s pure fire and ice. Real adventure requires maximum effort, so a trip to the South Pole begins exactly as it would for any professional explorer. This would start with a visit to Harley Street for a full physical assessment, followed by team development and survival skills. This is followed by moving to a winter alpine base in Europe for fitness and polar simulation routines. All of this is designed to ensure that once you travel to the ends of the Earth to embark on your South Pole challenge, you will proceed safely and through your own efforts. Skiing to an overnight camp allows for a review of your technique, navigation by GPS and towing pulks, the sled bearing some 120lbs of your equipment pulled from the waist. While it might sound simple, packing your bag properly and staying dry all go a long way to ensuring success. Your trek will take place in the “Last Degree” (of latitude) where all your preparation and training will come into evidence. For the next eight days this wilderness will become your home. After about a week you’ll finally see the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station appear as a speck on

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the horizon before you make the final push to the South Pole. Standing on a frozen desert plateau 9,306 feet above sea level, you’ll be joining the likes of Roald Amundsen, Robert Scott, and Ernest Shackleton as one of a small but elite group of individuals who have made it. The experience will become your very own story of conquest. Travelling with Momentum Adventure is a life changing experience. It’s no ordinary holiday, but rather something that is likely to have a positive impact on you for years to come. The sad fact is that modern life has removed us from being close to the grandeur and power of nature. Following your spirit of adventure and making it a reality in your life will provide you with a phenomenal sense of accomplishment and personal empowerment. Your life adventure is waiting for you- do it now. Martin Turner

Autumn 2013 • www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk


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the riding club london

a trip of a lifetime masai mara, kenya

‘having been dropped off at Heathrow with the words of “don’t get eaten by a lion” by my cheery cab driver, I was ready for our next adventure’

tristan voorspuy’s offbeat riding safaris

E

very year The Riding Club London collects a small group of equestrian enthusiasts to take part in a once-in-a-lifetime adventure in the saddle. Leaving the city and thoughts of work behind us, our only aim is to explore new surroundings and take in the exhilaration of riding amongst different cultures, sights and smells- quite unlike our usual rides in the English countryside. So one cold December morning, having been dropped off at Heathrow with the words ‘don’t get eaten by a lion’ by my cheery cab driver, I was ready for our next adventure. With a promise - unlike

most riding trips taken abroad - to keep numbers small and include only like-minded individuals, I had gathered a group of four wonderful members from the worlds of fashion, finance and technology who were as excited as me to take on the biggest challenge of their riding lives to date. The riding in Kenya promised to be fast, exciting and close to danger pretty much all the time, and Tristan, our guide and proprietor of Offbeat Riding Safaris, has a reputation that precedes him around the world. Very few companies can rival his knowledge, expertise and confidence in this wild habitat.

transferred to smaller Wilson Domestic Airport to be collected by our (tiny) Safari Link plane and taken on a beautiful two hour flight passing over the fertile Kikuyu Highlands to a small airstrip in the Masai Mara Reserve where Tristan was waiting to greet us. The first thing you might notice about Tristan is his boyish youthful energy and the ever-present glint in his eye as he expertly describes the surroundings, animals and culture of the Mara. I later came to think of him as a David Attenborough on horseback with a bit of Indiana Jones thrown in for good measure.

Our journey started upon arrival in Nairobi where we were picked up and

A jeep bumped us across the red dirt tracks towards our camp, only stopping

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a trip of a lifetime

once to view the abundance of game across the plains. Within twenty minutes of landing we were lucky enough to spot two male lions in prime and two lionesses, followed by an 8 month old cub. There were also three elephants including a young calf close by. Marvelling at these majestic beasts from the safety of the jeep did nothing to ease the nerves, which by this point were fluttering at the thought of riding so close to them. I’d nonchalantly ticked the check box on my riding form to say that I could “confidently gallop out of trouble” so many weeks ago it began to worry me now that we had arrived in Kenya! Approximately an hour later we arrive at our first camp, Mara River, somewhat brazenly situated overlooking a large hippo pool with a number of resident hippos casually watching us as we unpacked our belongings just metres up the bank from their home. Their river antics, grunting and squabbling between each other, set a great backdrop of entertainment as we sat down to a delicious lunch prepared by a smiling team of Masai chefs – the

‘Within twenty minutes of landing we were lucky enough to spot two male lions in prime and two lionesses, all followed by 8 month old cub’

mood around camp is joyful and it’s evident how much everyone enjoys working with Tristan and the horses. Tristan announces that we will ride at 4pm despite a short and fiery storm having just broken and an eerie light glowing around the camp. We meet our horses, tethered on the line, and we’re soon paired up with our suggested mount for the entire trip. The horses are a mixture of thoroughbred and thoroughbred crosses, mainly bred by Tristan and his wife Cindy and quite often polo-trained. Mine was a beautiful bright chestnut named Piers, who was very excitable and eager to be at the front at all times. This proved to be a little challenging to get used to for the first couple of rides despite my 25 years experience of riding back in England. Yet after just a short amount of hours in the saddle, I was thinking up ways I could smuggle him home with me! Our first ride was never to be forgotten. Both riders and horses were excited about


the first trip out, and within a few hundred yards of camp we stumbled quite suddenly upon four bull elephants. Tamoshanta, Tristan’s mount, was spooked by the unexpected sight and both he and my Piers spun and took a few fast steps away before we regained control. One of the elephants appeared not too impressed by our intrusion and flapped his large ears angrily, taking a couple of warning steps towards us. My heart was in my mouth as we all froze, poised for Tristan’s instructions. I had not anticipated needing to gallop out of trouble so soon on our trip. Extraordinarily, Tristan does not carry a gun on any of his rides, nor do any accompanying guides and so with a mere crack of his whip, standing his ground, Tristan was able to stop the elephant in its tracks and make it retreat to the rest of its herd. We slowly turned away and continued our ride to enjoy the more relaxing sight of the sun setting across the

y m n i s a w t r a e h y m e z o r f l l a e w s a mouth game-filled plains. The next morning we rose at around 6.45am. We rode west and up the Siria escarpment, enjoying beautiful views from the top before a descent surrounded by giraffes, impalas and zebras. The days that followed merged into hours exploring the surround on horseback, early morning rides followed by delicious hearty breakfasts at camp, game drives, long evening sunset rides and longer day rides where 6 or 7 hours were spent in the saddle as we moved camp across the Mara. Game here is abundant, and we were so lucky to see such a variety of animals large and small and so many young in this prime breeding season. The golden sunsets are overlooked by eagles circling overhead, and our resident pride of lions at the second camp enjoyed the sun’s rays as they rested before dusk fell, when they went in search of dinner. The days are hot and sunny, the evenings cool with the odd thunderstorm wetting the landscape. Each ride is in its own right an adventure and one poignant memory is of stumbling across a very dark 12ft python sunbathing after a recent rainstorm causing it to slither rather lazily down its hole after the clanking of our horses’ metal shoes disturbed the peace. Moments later, we found ourselves cantering after 30 wildebeest and 10 or 20 zebra. The latter were leading a charge across the river while we followed at a sedate pace. That same ride, we saw what Tristan described as a ‘honeymooning’ couple of lions. The lioness was steady but the lion growled at us before reversing away, crouched in a comical manner. The encounter was both exhilarating and special. The riding is on varied terrain, uphill, downhill, impossibly fast galloping across the plains and swimming across rivers. It is hard to think about a ride to match it anywhere else in the world. Being on horseback meant that our small group encountered sights not

frequently seen by those on packaged jeep safaris. The nomadic nature of riding from camp to camp meant that we felt part of the landscape rather than just a visitors, and we were lucky enough to see such a variety of the bigger animals: elephants, lions, giraffes, leopards and, of course, that 12ft python. It was the abundance of game and the smaller animals, though- from the cute and comical baby warthogs, the graceful impala and gazelle to a clumsy aardvark - which stole the limelight and proved the unspoilt circle of nature. Tristan’s knowledge of the landscape and its wildlife is vast and the respect accorded him by the local Masai community is acknowledged by his honorary warden status, but it is also the stories of days past told around the campfire and his effortless recitation of Rudyard Kipling poetry that made us feel at home and made us confident that we were in the right hands in the Mara. It was without doubt the adventure of a lifetime for me and my fellow members of The Riding Club London. Katharine Quinlan


more than one billion people

one trillion views of videos

72 hours of video

visit youtube every month

on youtube in 2011

uploaded every minute

youtube: the new frontier

by violet hudson


THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL

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harlie McDonnell is sitting opposite me in a restaurant in Mayfair, eating a hamburger and talking about his schooldays. ‘I was the kid who wanted to set up a film club,’ he says. ‘It was not cool. It was me standing up in assembly. I didn’t even know how to edit.’ Little could he have known that less than a decade after he stood up in front of his school friends, he would have over 2 million people hanging on his every word. Because Charlie is a YouTuber. And if you don’t know what that means, then you need to, because they are taking over the world. YouTube didn’t even exist a decade ago. Now there are 72 hours of video content uploaded every minute. In 2011, there were one trillion views of videos on YouTube – around 140 for each person on earth. 500 years’ worth of time is watched on YouTube videos every day – and that’s just via Facebook. The statistics are mind-boggling, the numbers too big to comprehend. But what makes YouTube special is that the vast numbers don’t get in the way of the personal experience. Part of the reason that YouTube ‘channels’ (a series of videos put out from the same user) have become so popular, according to many of the young YouTubers I spoke to, is that it feels interactive. People who put up YouTube videos aren’t faceless corporations; there are comment boxes beneath each video, to which YouTubers actually respond, and use them to guide their future content. An example: someone left a comment on one of Charlie McDonnell’s videos that said, ‘Charlie could eat cereal for ten minutes and say nothing and I would find it entertaining.’ So Charlie did indeed put up such a video. ‘There were a surprising number of people who commented and said they didn’t quite know what it meant for their lives,’ says Charlie with a wry chuckle. In the age of One Direction, it is inevitable that most of the more successful YouTubers are young, floppyhaired, sweet-looking males. Charlie is among the most successful (his channel,

‘In the age of One Direction, it is an inevitability that most of the more successful YouTubers are young, floppyhaired, sweetlooking males’ charlieissocoollike, has 2.1 million subscribers at the time of writing) but there are plenty more where he came from. Alex Day (nerimon on YouTube, he is Charlie’s friend and housemate – there’s very little rivalry in the YouTube world) has had a song go to number four in the UK charts without the backing of a major label – simply by putting up his music on YouTube. He has over 730,000 subscribers. Thomas Ridgewell, aka tomska, has just over two million subscribers who hanker after his simple, witty animations including such titles as ‘Marmite is Terrible’ and ‘Cake’. Jamal Edwards, smokeybarz, has launched a highly successful career as a music producer with YouTube channels as his starting point. His SBTV: Music has 345,000 subscribers, not to mention its own sport, fashion, comedy and US branches. Stars such as Miley Cyrus, Justin Bieber and Bruno Mars have appeared in interviews or jam sessions for the channel. He has interviewed the Prime Minister and launched the career of Ed Sheeran. Jamal Edwards is worth approximately £6 million, more than Jessie J. He isn’t yet 24. His favourite saying? ‘The revolution will not be televised, it will be digitised.’ This might be a slight overstatement. Jack and Finn Harries (jacksgap) are twins with 2.6 million subscribers. Their bold tagline is “5 minutes of your life that you won’t get back.” This points to a large way in which YouTube is used: as the vast majority of videos are under 15 minutes

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long, it is not so much a replacement for TV (‘YouTube still hasn’t had its Breaking Bad,’ says Charlie) as a coffee-break bubble-gum hit. In America, although online viewing has more than doubled among 12-24 year olds since the beginning of 2012, it still only accounts for two and half hours per week, compared to around 22 hours of TV. Or, to put it another way, people who watch five hours of TV per day will watch around five hours of YouTube per month. That’s not to say that YouTube isn’t becoming increasingly important. There are over 1,000 people worldwide who now earn $100,000 per annum – or more – from their YouTube revenues. YouTube, which is owned by Google, is now the second most used search engine in the world, after its parent. The ad revenue from YouTube is more per hour than US cable TV, thanks in part to the fact that many ads are now skip-able – only consumers who are interested in a product, and who are therefore more likely to make a purchase, need watch the whole thing for around one third of all YouTube ads. ‘I’m not of the opinion that YouTube will kill TV,’ says Charlie carefully, who has himself done a little bit of presenting and a few TV and Internet hybrid shows – although he loves the “creative control” he has over his YouTube output. And that’s the other thing. Although most YouTubers working now started as teenagers making films in their bedrooms, they now have access to top-level equipment – not least through YouTube funded studios. The ethos may be on home-spun charm and the atmosphere may still be that of kids doing their own thing, away from the grown-ups, but these kids are, if not canny, then certainly savvy. ‘I’m at a point now with technical proficiency where I will deliberately take out some production values,’ says Charlie.

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Many young YouTubers now employ teams of people – PAs, PRs, and so on – to help manage their output and their presence. Jack and Finn Harries were unavailable to comment on this article, as they are taking a break from doing press. Because why would they need to do press? Over two million people engaging in their world, and then discussing it with their mates, is press enough. So what is the future of YouTube? It can only grow. And as our attention spans become increasingly truncated (I’ll bet you’ve paused from reading this article at least once to check your emails or Facebook, or send a tweet), YouTube is the perfect platform

Autumn 2013 • www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk

for the quick-hit. ‘After someone’s watched my video, they can go on to watch someone else’s,’ says Charlie apropos of YouTube’s speed, ‘whereas with TV, two programs you might want to watch could be on at the same time.’ And, for Charlie at least, narrative programs are where he’s heading. He’s just finished his second short film, Offline. ‘It’s about a group of guys working late in an office who lost their internet connection, but it’s styled like a disaster movie,’ he jokes. Laugh he might: but the time when not being on-grid is a fiasco is coming sooner than he thinks. It might even be here already.

Violet Hudson


THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL

www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Autumn 2013

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f o o d

Mark Hix’s

Autumnal Treat S

ummer’s lease may hath all too short a date, but there’s a lot to be said for autumn, too. It is, after all, the season of mists and mellow fruitfulness. Which may explain why it’s inspiring all of this poetry… Mark Hix’s latest book, The Collection by Mark Hix, is jam-packed full of delicious recipes which make use of seasonal produce and traditionally British flavours to create meals which are robust, delicious and hearty. This one might just be the pick of the bunch. It’s warming and earthy – and a great way to use up a brace of pheasants for a long weekend lunch.

Pheasant, Chesnut and Chanterelle Soup Pheasant has a tendency to dry out during cooking, but this soup gets around that problem. You can prepare the soup base, roast the chestnuts and get everything together the day before, ready to reheat and assemble everything just before serving.

Continue to simmer the soup for a further 20 minutes. Melt the butter in a small saucepan and stir in the flour over a low heat. Whisk the flour and butter mixture into the simmering soup a little at a time to thicken it, then continue to simmer for another 20 minutes.

serves 6-8 1 oven-ready pheasant 1 onion, peeled and roughly chopped 1 small leek, roughly chopped and washed a few sprigs of thyme 2 litres chicken stock 100ml white wine 40g butter 30g plain flour 16-18 fresh chestnuts in the shell 2-3 tbsp double cream 150g chanterelles, cleaned 2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cut the legs from the pheasant using a sharp knife, then carefully remove the breasts. Place the legs, breasts and carcass in a pot with the onion, leek, thyme, stock and wine. Season, bring to the boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Take out the breasts and set aside.

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Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 200C/gas mark 6. Score the chestnuts and place on a baking tray. Cover with foil and bake for 12-15 minutes. Place on a plate and leave until cool enough to handle. Peel away the skins and cut each into 2-3 pieces. Strain the soup through a fine sieve into a clean saucepan and add the cream. Remove the pheasant meat from the legs and cut the breast into bite-sized pieces. Add to the soup with the chestnuts, chanterelles and chopped parsley. Simmer gently for 5 minutes. Check the seasoning and serve. Mark Hix: The Collection by Mark Hix, published by Quadrille Publishing, £25. Photography by Jason Lowe.

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Autumn: the season of mists and mellow fruitfulness

www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Autumn 2013

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GENTLEMAN’S

ETIQUETTE

The Forgotten Art of Letter Writing

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t’s hard to put a price on the treasure that is a handwritten letter. After all, how do you value something that is only pen and paper? In the spring of 1864 Abraham Lincoln received the socalled “Children’s Petition” signed by 195 boys and girls begging him to release all minors from slavery. On the 5th of April of that same year he wrote a letter saying that all child slaves would be released. That letter was auctioned at Sotheby’s in 2008 for $3.4 million, but imagine the value to those lives his letter affected.

deeply personal gesture, one that is tangible to the recipient. It takes an investment of time and effort to pen a letter or a card, and that is what makes it so valuable.

marketing material or bills. How lovely to sift through a pile of mail and happen upon an exquisite envelope which offers instant salve to a pressing day.

When you attend a dinner party for which your host and hostess have made efforts to create a sensational evening of great food and wine, isn’t taking the time to hand write a note of thanks something important to a Gentleman? Most of what bursts through our letterbox these days is ghastly

Emails get deleted, passwords lost, and computers recycled. A letter remains as a testimony of the relationship between composer and recipient. While on his fateful journey to the Pole, Captain Scott wrote to his wife: ‘If anything happens to me I shall like you to know how much you have

In an age of computers and mobile phones, communication is immediate and the very idea of letter writing seems terribly outdated. The reality is that the writing and receiving of letters and cards is an experience that technology cannot and will never be able to replace. Taking up a pen is a

‘Emails get deleted, passwords lost, and computers recycled. A letter remains as a testimony of the relationship between composer and recipient.’ 88

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meant to me and that pleasant recollections are with me as I depart’. How our hearts quietly soar when a postcard arrives from a friend knowing they thought of us and took the time to say hello, and that while enjoying a foreign place, we were on their mind. The very idea of putting pen to paper is all the more appealing when you have the right equipment to carry out the task. A visit to Smythson is a good place to start, and you may even feel the urge to splurge on your very own bespoke design. Montblanc and Van Cleef & Arpels created one of the most expensive pens ever, the “Mystery Masterpiece”. This was set with 20 carats of sapphire, emeralds and rubies and

‘When you attend a dinner party for which your host and hostess have made efforts to create a sensational evening of great food and wine, isn’t taking the time to hand write a note of thanks something important to a Gentleman?’

accented by 840 diamonds. It cost a mere $730K, but a basic Mont Blanc fountain pen will do perfectly. Choosing the right ink is important, and we recommend aqua blue. (A tip: if you haven’t hand written a card or letter for some time, practise your hand writing, and take your time to think about what you want to say before you start writing. There is no back space function) Letters and cards that we keep are of sentimental value as well as providing a window into our past. They can become

some of our most treasured possessions - especially when the writer is no longer with us. The real Gentleman will make sure he has beautiful note paper, personalised cards and letter head to compliment his ink pen. The art of being a Gentleman - along with the art of letter writing - is something that must not be lost. Martin Turner

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FOR HER

Don’t wait until Christmas: She’ll want these right now

STOCKISTS Eugenia Kim Hat - £315 - net-a-porter.com Josie Maran Moisturiser - £35 - net-a-porter.com Theo Fennell Ring - £6,500 - theofennell. com Exotic Teapot Oriental Glass Teapot - £20 - exoticteapot.co.uk Alex Monroe Bracelet - £195 - alexmonroe.com Athena Procopiou Scarf - £250 - athenaprocopiou.com Christopher Kane Skirt £745 - net-a-porter.com Karl Donoghue Shearling Gilet £800 - net-a-porter.com Hervé Van Der Straeten Earrings - £170 - net-a-porter.com Penhaligon’s Eau De Parfum - £95 - penhaligons. com Belstaff Coat - £1,395 - belstaff.com See By Chloé Boots - £350 - net-a-porter.com Jo Malone Air Diffuser - £48 - jomalone.com

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We present this season’s most luxurious products for the woman in your life. Boots to go walking in, jumpers to snuggle up by the fire in and jewellery that will make her want to dance. Don’t wait until Christmas: she’ll want these right now. www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Autumn 2013

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FOR HER

Lily Aldridge

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FOR VICTORIA’S SECRET

Lily Aldridge is married to rockstar and Kings of Leon frontman Caleb Followill, who we can all say is one lucky man. The brunette bombshell is the face of American brand Victoria's Secret Fall 2013 campaign, ‘Fabulous’. The Collection includes leopard print, floral and striped bikinis. - Featured above: Fabulous Push Up Bra- £42 | Hiphugger Panty- £8 To see more go to victoriassecret.com or visit their recently opened Bond Street Store - 111 New Bond St, London, W1S 1DP. 92

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when you can achieve the same results climbing? one size doesn’t fit all A lot has been written about the best way to build strength and muscle size, and sometimes it can be difficult to know exactly who you should listen to. One key point to remember is that there is no “one size fits all” approach to exercise. Take the London 2012 Olympics for example: many different athletes all competing at different events, training in different ways still have a similar physique. Instead of trying to find the single greatest exercise tool we should instead be increasing the size of our exercise tool box. What I mean by this is that we need to expand our training horizon and try different methods of training. Climbing is a great example of this; it’s short duration, can involve intense power and strength based moves, incorporates both upper and lower body, is great fun, can be done with friends or colleagues. In short, a great workout.

climbing

you personally have to place a variety of equipment including nuts, slings and CAMS as you climb up the wall. This is considered to be higher risk than sport climbing and definitely needs to be done with an experienced climber or climbing instructor. That’s a basic intro to climbing. Now on to the more important stuff: how does this apply to training and can I achieve the same results climbing that I can from going to the gym? The answer is yes... and no. Attempting a challenging climb will generally involve 6-12 movements of each limb, which is exactly the same as you would normally do at the gym. You might hear a lot of people asking how many REPS of each exercise it will take to put on a bit of size and also lose some fat- the answer is somewhere in the range of 6-12 REPS, aka exactly the same as you would do in a standard climb. Perfect: so you can achieve the same results doing something pretty exhilarating as you can in the gym (although for me lifting weights is pretty exhilarating as well, but you get the point).

However, when you climb you are mainly pulling with arms and back and pushing with your legs. This means that legs, lats (the wings on the side of your back), biceps and triceps will get a great workout, but your mid to upper back and chest will be fairly inactive.

‘i guarantee you will have a great time’ Therefore – yes - you can get a great strength and fat-loss based workout from climbing, but it needs to be combined with some work in the gym as well. So why not give it a try? I guarantee that you will have a great time and will be achieving almost exactly the same results as you would in the gym. I would suggest having a look for your local climbing centre to start with something fairly easy and simple and then take it from there. Matt Roberts

happy climbing!

There are different types of climbing and generally they come under three different categories: climbing with a top rope, sport climbing and traditional climbing. Climbing with a top rope involves climbing with a rope that is wrapped around a device at the top of the wall. There is virtually no risk involved and anyone can do it, either alone or, more usually, accompanied by a friend or instructor. Sport climbing is where you climb a pre-set route where someone has attached bolts to the wall or rock face. This is considered to be quite low risk and is similarly something that anyone can do provided that there’s an instructor or an experienced climber present. Traditional climbing is again involves following a pre-set route, but

‘I would suggest having a look for your local climbing centre to start with something fairly easy and simple and then take it from there’ www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Autumn 2013

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t r o p s r e v o r e g n a r the e n i h c a m a a beast of

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hen inside its reassuringly strong fold, there isn’t a mountain high enough, nor a valley low enough, no river deep enough… you get my drift. In short, to be behind the wheel of a Range Rover is to feel invincible. Which is why it’s not only pig farmers who have a use for them; bona fide residents of Mayfair, Chelsea and Belgravia do too – for why worry about rush hour when one’s vehicle can scoff the morning traffic for breakfast? Granted, the models owned by these two sectors may differ somewhat. The latter, though, are turning to this, The Range Rover Sport.


c a r s Since 2005 Range Rover have sold 415,000 of their Sports model worldwide. So when Land Rover invited us down to test drive their newest design, there wasn’t a mountain high enough, nor a valley low enough... yes, yes, you get it. Spending the day powering through the Welsh Black Mountains, scaling hills, carving up tarmac and wading through rushing streams, it was instantly clear that whilst it retains its original DNA, this new Range Rover Sport is faster, more agile and responsive than its predecessors. Developed alongside the highly acclaimed all-new Range Rover, this new design delivers the brand’s best ever on-road dynamics, merged with class-leading Land Rover all-terrain capability. It presents customers with a more assertive engine, a muscular ‘heavyweight’ exterior offset by luxurious, slick interiors. At launch, all-new Range Rover Sport customers have a choice of two engines. A supercharged 5.0-litre 510PS V8 petrol engine and a 3.0-litre SDV6 diesel engine. The powertrain line-up will be expanded in early 2014 by the addition of a 3.0-litre TDV6 and high performance 4.4-litre SDV8 diesel engine. In addition, an innovative, high-efficiency diesel hybrid model will be available to order in 2014. Across the range, acceleration times for the 0-60mph dash start from 5 seconds, while fuel consumption is cut by up to 24 per cent (model dependent). If you’re after the thirsty supercharged, you’ll be very pleased with the rich sporting soundtrack generated by the carefully tuned exhaust system and sound symposer on the intake system. Both the petrol and diesel engines in the new Range Rover Sport are paired with the advanced electronically controlled 8-speed automatic gearbox. And that’s just in the bonnet. Superior detailing and craftsmanship characterise the insides. Think elegant lines and a dash of sporting character, without a jot of ostentation; Range Rover remains an understated, smooth operator – the James Bond of 4x4s. And, speaking of Bond, let me reel off

s’ 4 x 4 f o d n o b s e ‘the jam the gadgets. A comprehensive connectivity package enables customers to stay seamlessly connected to their vehicle, business and family lives. ‘Connected Car’ technology allows the driver to check the status of the vehicle via an app installed on their Smartphone (Q would approve) and also provides support features such as Stolen Vehicle Tracking, Land Rover Assist Call and Emergency Call – to M (I jest, though it would be nice). Additionally, a digital camera system to improve driver awareness comes as standard and includes three assistance features – Lane Departure Warning, Traffic Sign Recog-

nition and Automatic High Beam Assist – whilst the new Wade Sensing™ feature indicates water depth for driving through those rivers deep. In excess of 20,000 physical tests have been completed across all components and a fleet of development vehicles have spent more than 18 months covering thousands of miles in over 20 countries. I can safely say this car is a must-buy. The ultimate multi-purpose 4x4 – for every mountain, every valley, every river... well, almost. George Askew


c a r s

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THE MERCEDES G CLASS

The return of the G-class. The G350 is a combination of Mercedes’ precision engineering, old school design and limitless technology. It’s exciting…but expensive

T

hink Captain Mainwaring meets Prince Harry. Improved, properformer, old school by nature and admired by a varied audience but not without a few bumps in the road. The exterior is clearly handmade: bolts fix the lines like ergonomic plasters. It’s a seriously cool car, boisterous yet dignified- if its rival the Range Rover sweeps gel through its mane, the G-Class goes bare, Vegas style. Lets put it this way: it knows who’s boss on the runway. By comparison, the Range Rover feels like a domineering dad- and we all know which is less embarrassing. It makes you stop and stare, not glare. Cool, however, comes at a cost, starting at £82,000 the G350 blueTEC diesel is £10k steeper than the new Range Rover. The re-emergence of the G-class is like an homage to 1970’s technology- underneath the recent 2013 model is the original design, built for the Germany army. If you’ve read about how good the G-class is off road, read again. It really is a proper “off-roader”. It’s built for blokes who prefer to jump in the boot with the rest rather than park their derrière on a heated cushion. Modern man may have to readjust the front seat fully using whizzy electrics as it’s a little too close for comfort, but the headspace is very sizeable. The jump-up into the car is also an original feature, perhaps unfavourably kept; it does add a rough and ready feel, but like the suspension, it might start to wear thin. The tall, chunky tyres tend to follow the natural lines of changing terrain, perfect for broken ground. When pounding the tarmac, however, this makes the steering fairly heavy, which is a waste of the multiple functions now built in. The chassis is a chameleon from rough to road, 4mm thick in some places. Its stats make for a less than wowing

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read, but if Mercedes were to offer free test drives, they’d be dealing with a lot more irrational customers. You’re looking at a top speed of 109mph and 0-60 in 9 sec, squeezed from a V6 turbo diesel engine. A 7-speed auto gearbox housed in aluminum takes a mere flick of the fingers and you’re in drive. Although Mercedes have triumphed in creating a vast list of appealing add-ons, such as reversing cameras and discreet TVs, the standard features are equally impressive. These include an iDrive command controller fitted onto a tablet-style 7inch screen, frontal airbags, window bags, ESP, anti-whiplash seat headrests, a rugged leather dashboard and a driving perch that allows the road to become a 360-degree vista. Who do you think they are kidding? No one. This is a serious 4x4, and you’re just one drive away from conviction. It’s incredibly well-engineered, flanked with new technology but being bought by Beverly Hills babes at quite a price. We’re bemused. Harry Jarman

Autumn 2013 • www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk


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HEAD

IN THE

BOSS & CO COUNTRY CITY

HEART

IN THE

For the best advice, sporting guns, accessories, clothing and gifts, visit our store in the heart of St James’ or visit our website at williamevans.com. LONDON GUN & RIFLE MAKERS WILLIAM EVANS LTD, 67A ST. JAMES’S STREET, LONDON, SW1A 1PH +44 (0)207 493 0415 www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Autumn 2013

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Salperton IV Luxury Charter Sailing Yacht

This 147.64ft/45m sloop sail yacht is custom built by Fitzroy and was launched in 2009. Her exterior design and engineering showcase the craft of Dubois, while the sophisticated interior is the work of Adam Lay’s design studio. The living compartment can sleep up to seven guests in four staterooms, with additional space for six cabin-crew. The equal balance ensures you experience first class service. The yacht’s luxury amenities include an on-deck jacuzzi and a state-of-the-art soundsystem, and the interior is elegantly and classically styled with superb seating throughout the living spaces, creating a sensational atmosphere for socialising. It is currently available for charter, and will be visiting the desirable destinations of St Martin, Antigua and The Windward Islands this winter.

£145,000 p/winter week Contact: hemmo@yachtmasters.com

YACHTS The Luxury Salperton IV Sailing Yacht

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G650

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H I G H C L E R E C A S T L E > It is the 26th November 1922. in Egypt. More specifically, a tomb in the Valley of the Kings. This tomb has been untouched for many hundreds of years. It is dark and dusty, and there’s no knowing what might be found inside. A chipping sound indicates that stone is being chiseled away. Howard Carter and Lord Carnarvon crane forwards, eager to see what lies within. Carter thrusts a candle through the gap that they have made in the wall, and the candle flickers on brilliant gold, and piles of treasure, that have been lost in this underground vault for centuries. ‘Can you see anything?’ asks Carnarvon, breathlessly. ‘Yes, wonderful things,’ replies Carter.

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he story of the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb is thrilling and famous. Lord Carnarvon, the 5th Earl, had been bankrolling Carter from 1914. The First World War and a series of unfortunate incidents meant that by 1921, nothing had been found. Frustrated, Carnarvon gave Carter an ultimatum: one more season to find the tomb, or the financing would be pulled. So the hunt was on, in earnest. Finally, KV62 (as the tomb is named) was found under the remains of some workmens’ huts. It remains the most complete tomb ever to have been discovered in Egypt and is of untold importance for scholars in many disciplines. The tomb was found to contain incredible treasures – 5,000 items in the treasury alone, and the whole lot took 8 years in total to remove. Carter was able to photograph garlands of flowers which disintegrated when they were touched. The innermost coffin was made of pure gold, and each toe of the mummy was encased in gold. There were 35 boats in the innermost tomb, to aid the pharaoh’s passage to the afterlife.

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Cut forwards over half a century, to the 1990s. The current Lord Carnarvon, George Herbert, the 8th Earl, is compiling a list of his grandfather’s possessions following his death. The deceased Earl’s butler comes forward. He mentions that there is a secret hiding place, a hollow wall between two rooms. He says that the dead Earl had spoken of things being concealed there. The hiding place is found, and inside are some of those ‘wonderful things’ from Tutankhamun’s tomb. There is jewellery dating from 40BC, silver bracelets and beads that would have adorned the necks

“”

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and arms of ancient princesses. There are bronze coins with images of eagles cast on them which date from 300BC and were touched by a people we can only imagine. There are ivory clappers, which are even older – from 1990BC – and were used as castanets. Now it is summer 2013, and Lord Carnarvon has compiled some of these treasures into an exhibition in honour of his ancestor who discovered the great tomb. ‘It was an extraordinary moment,’ he says of the discovery of the treasures in the wall. The Egyptian Exhibition, at

CANARVON GAVE CARTER

AN ULTIMATUM ONE MORE SEASON... SO THE HUNT WAS

ON IN

EARNEST


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Highclere castle, is a remarkable show. In the cellars of the castle, it recreates the feeling of discovering the tomb for the first time. The burial chamber has been recreated, complete with exact-scale replicas of the paintings on the walls and the burial mask. There is another side of the exhibition as well. This focuses on what life was like in the Castle at the time of the discovery – the first thirty years or so of the twentieth century. There are cameras and classic car posters and a list of players in the village cricket team. And this part of the show ties in perfectly with the other thing that Highclere Castle is famous for: Downton Abbey.

Then, of course, there are the business interests. Highclere has to cater for all of those thousands of people who pour

through the gates every day, churning up the grass and stomping on the carpets. There is a large, recently refurbished café with a “Downton” theme – photos of Dame Maggie Smith peer down superciliously at latte-drinkers and chattering children. There is a beautifully laid-out shop with plenty of tempting bath products and appetizing honeys. During the summer months, there are concerts and other events which keep the money trickling in. Highclere is unusually lucky. But, then, it is also unusually beautiful, with an unusual history. But perhaps most unusual is its proprietor – a man who knew that letting in a TV crew could turn around the fortunes of one of England’s great estates. Long may it prosper. Violet Hudson

“ BUT IT’S NOT AN EASY RIDE. LORD CARNARVON IS STILL ACTIVELY INVOLVED IN THE DAY-TO-DAY RUNNING OF THE ESTATE. IT’S HARD WORK AND HE IS A BUSY MAN ”

>

Between the Egypt haul and the hit TV show, Highclere Castle is one of the luckiest estates in the country. Since Downton Abbey was first broadcast, the number of visitors has risen exponentially. At 10.30 on a misty, summery Thursday, before the Castle has even officially opened for the day, the car park is full of coaches bringing loads of American (and, increasingly, Chinese) tourists, each paying around £15 to look around the house and gardens. Tickets are sold out months in advance. But it’s not an easy ride. Lord Carnarvon is still actively involved in the day-to-day running of the estate, whether that be fixing a broken boiler in one of cottages which are rented out or checking that the crops are yielding their expected harvest. It’s hard work – and he is a busy man.

rooms which would seem to attest to this. Lord Carnarvon and his family actually live in a house on the estate, although he admits they do sometimes use Highclere for grand weekends and the odd Christmas. Although the bedrooms are cordoned off to paying guests, copies of Country Life and worn paperbacks show that they are in occasional use by invited ones.There is a magnificent art collection, including pieces by Sir Joshua Reynolds and Van Dyck. This is supplemented by an impressive lot of mementoes, including, rather sportingly, a Private Eye satire of Julian Fellowes, the creator of Downton Abbey and a long standing family friend of the Carnarvons.

THE STORY OF HIGHCLERE IS ONE OF DISCOVERY AND ADVENTURE

The house is imposing and neo-Gothic, designed by Sir Charles Barry, the architect responsible for the Houses of Parliament. However, it is described as a family home and there are plenty of personal photographs scattered throughout the

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SHOOTING SPECIAL I N T ROD U C E D

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hooting. Is it a sport? I don’t know. They should call it luxury foraging. I sometimes marvel that in the sanitized 21st Century something as thoroughly exciting as lead-stoning wild animals is still allowed. One can’t quite believe the grey men haven’t got their hands on the sport, red-taped it, filed it and buried it along with all the other fun stuff like the Empire. I enjoy my shooting, but I take it with a pinch of salt; the modern day circus can be somewhat overbearing. One finds one can only talk to so many fund managers, sit in so many Range Rovers, quaff so many slogasms before one becomes resentful, tired and drunk. In my old age I’m rather more drawn to fly fishing and the spiritual side of murder. We have a shoot at home and it is utter chaos, which is the way I like it. Once upon a time we turned up at the wrong drive and the keeper was shoving the birds over an empty beet field. On another occasion my father, a Baronet of the old school, got us completely lost. He gave up, declaring: ‘I’ve never even seen this part of the Estate before.’ We were later cautioned for trespassing. I’m genetically programmed to absentmindedness myself and have often left my gun in a field, at home or loaded in the car. On one worthy occasion, I shot grouse in my slippers when my mother forgot to put my Wellies out for me. Life can be so exhausting. Our keeper hates shooting and me even more and clearly

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loathes the whole exercise. Luckily we have a thoroughly dependable chap with red cheeks and a shiny Discovery who tells us what’s happening and where to stand. If it wasn’t for shoot Captains, honestly, I don’t know what would happen. They’re the dependable middle, marshalling the confused Generals and herding the motley beaters. Think Blackadder in plus fours and a Barbour: ‘Indeed Sir, I simply tried to explain to keeper Baldrick how this sharp pointy stick would feel once it had been lodged up his freezing cold northern arse. Incidentally Sir, I believe you shot several of your guests’ dogs in the last drive.’ I’ll never forget when, while shooting in Scotland, I overheard a wizened old beater who looked like a twig remark: ‘Och, here they come (referring to the guffawing guns piling out of the luncheon hut), red feeced and laughing aboot nothing’. He was right; it’s a silly old game and everyone’s in fancy dress but by Jove it’s good fun and one can’t underestimate the sheer delight of blood on snow. On a more serious note (which I genuinely find impossible to uphold for long, as life is best viewed through the absurd microscope) shooting game is one of life’s musts. There is a genuine excitement in shooting well and when my dog (Smut – a spaniel) is picking up my own birds (and everyone else’s) there’s no place I’d rather be. Having said that, if Angelina Jolie asked me to come and butter her crumpets at tea-time I might leave the field early.


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Shooting Etiquette INSTANT WAYS TO PUT AN END TO THE CONVERSATION Do you shoot? Do you think it’s morally justifiable to kill defenseless animals? You’ll never guess how much this wine costs… Have you ever eaten anything so revolting? Do you think the host’s wife has had work done? Have you ever cross-dressed?

There’s an excellent swinger’s club near here. Shall we pop over after supper? They should have traded in the Botticelli for the catering. I’m sure we’ve met somewhere before. Didn’t my first wife run off with your second wife’s first husband? I say, the gamekeeper’s daughter’s a real bit of crumpet. When does she turn 16?

NEW MONEY

OLD MONEY

GEAR

Top of the range, spanking new kit

Hand-me-downs complete with weatherbeaten elbow patches

A multipack of hot water bottles

CAR

Flash 4x4 with personalized number plates

Vintage Landrover – minus doors

Recycled Christmas gifts – with the original label still attached

DOG

Saluki

Greying, asthmatic Labrador, aged 20

GUN

Still in box

Dad’s antique 12-bore

LUNCH

A La Carte, designed especially by a celebrity chef, in a custom-built cabin

Marmite soup and ham sandwiches, wolfed down in transit between drives

BOOZE

Sommelier on hand at each drive

Hip flask concoction of old whiskys, mixed together

HOUSE

Recently purchased art-deco with all mod cons, colour co-ordinated and decked out with modern art

Crumbling Georgian pile with no central heating and a token Van Dyke in the library

SUPPER

External private catering cooking pheasant bought that morning from the butcher. Momogram cutlery

Booze. Lots of it. Maybe soup. Fish pie and overcooked, cold broccoli. Washing up done by guests

SLEEP

Memory foam matress given to each guest on arrival. Lavender spray on bedside table. Temperature-contolled room and heated bathroom floor

Sleepless night in a damp eiderdown. Plenty of corridor creeping by pervy old men

DREAM +1

Pippa Middleton

Pippa Middleton

10 HOUSE GIFTS THAT WILL ENSURE YOU’RE NEVER INVITED BACK… A half-drunk bottle of wine A china doll ornament

Raunchy underwear for the host’s wife Orchids 5,000 piece Winnie The Pooh jigsaw puzzle for the host’s sulky, chain-smoking, 16-year-old daughter you thought was still four. Clearasil gift set A self-published book of Great English Shoots – that doesn’t include your host’s A pair of gerbils – one male, one female

AND FIVE THAT WILL MAKE SURE YOU ARE… A case of vintage claret Brand new Hunter boots for each member of the family, in the correct sizes A Fortnum and Mason hamper The use of your villa in the South of France for a week in August A subscription to The Gentleman’s Journal

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Top Shoots This year’s top shoot list has provided some interesting results, with many newcomers alongside some more familiar names. You will notice that we have extended the list by 10 this year, to 30 - there were some we just couldn’t leave out. As always, this list is very subjective and has been compiled with the help of some of the most experienced shots and estate owners in the country. The shoots are listed in no particular order, as with so many opinions and views, it would be impossible to do so. I would like to take this chance thank the following, whose opinions and knowledge have been extremely helpful: Lord Margadale, Sir Edward Dashwood, William Tywhritt-Drake, William Asprey, Ian Coley and Jason Abbot among many others. The end result is a list that truly has the best of everything, from fast grouse in North Yorkshire, challenging partridge in Wiltshire, stratospheric pheasant in Gloucestershire and some of the best wild bird shooting in Pembrokeshire. There is something for everyone. Faccombe, Hampshire This is undoubtedly one of the closest quality shoots to London. The privacy of the estate is impeccable. The house is set behind a high wall in a secluded location for those wanting to seek some time away from the City. The rugged landscape of undulating hills is ideal for both pheasant and partridge shooting. The estate used to be owned by the late Brigadier Tim Landon, who took an interest in conservation: the 650 acre estate runs off wind turbines. However, this does not disturb the beauty of the area, nor the well-kept drives. Garrowby, Yorkshire This estate, located in the midst of Yorkshire’s glacial terrain, plays on its natural valleys with a mixture of woody slopes and open land of cover crop. In fact, the estate includes the top point in the Yorkshire Wolds. This extreme range forms a challenging day’s shoot, even for the locals who were bred into the elite of high pheasant experts. If you find yourself alongside them, be sure to watch and learn, and consider yourself extremely lucky. The 13,500-acre estate owned by Lord Halifax rarely opens a day for let. When they do it’s a golden game ticket. Caerhays, Cornwall This flourishing rural community, on the south Cornwall coast, has shooting firmly rooted at its heart. The estate of Caerhays Castle is run by the infamous Charles Williams. The shoot is among 120 acres with drives in a variety of locations - some with spectacular sea views, others on the edge of the exotic woodland created by Williams himself. Williams’s wife led the conversion of the old rectory into luxury accommodation complete with personal chef: “The Vean” sleeps 8. This shoot runs 80 days a year, rearing the traditional Kansas pheasant. The most talked-about drive boasts views of the castle, designed by Nash in 1807, a stunning listed building flanked by deep valleys. Raby, Co Durham This shoot is most famous for its wild birds, particularly grouse. The land covers over 30,000 acres of moor extending into the Upper Teasdale valley. It holds five well-recognised standards for conservation and, with between 30-40 keepers, it’s a magnificent landscape and an textbook example of land management. The toughest drive, often left off the list, is Manor Ghyll: its swift low birds catch out even the most experienced eye. The estate is run by

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Lord Barnard, vice-president of the GWCT. His private home, as the 11th Baron, is the 14th century castle. His advocation of wild birds sees Raby renowned for woodcock, snipe and grouse. Bolton Abbey, Yorkshire If we could write a definition for ultimate synergy of the tradition and quality that is so often associated with Yorkshire shoots, it would be Bolton Abbey. With only a brace of days a week on average throughout the season, the Devonshire family strives to provide the highest quality days with a low-key feel. This 30,000 acre estate in Wharfedale is predominantly moorland, providing zipping grouse. Drive of the day is often given to Low Gill, with a remarkably idyllic backdrop of the aqueduct at Howgill, and the youthful conifer plantation provides some late but soaring pheasant. This memorable shoot in White Rose county is made better by the lunch provided by The Devonshire Arms, recent winner of top 100 restaurants in the UK. Oh, and one more thing: the ruins of a 12th Century Priory in the grounds really cement its impression. Abbotsbury, Dorset This pheasant shoot in Dorset can easily be ranked as one of the top shoots in the South of England. Its relatively low number of shoot days mean that the condition of the land and the birds is always impeccable. The landscape of Abbotsbury is quite something: you can expect to be wowed by- awesome views down onto the Swannery, and the Sun sparkling over the sea is something no one can compete with - not even a record bag. The skyline here is quite simply exceptional, and the birds are guaranteed to be aiming for the clouds, even with strong coastal winds. Slebech Estate, Pembrokeshire This choice is certainly favourable for the true hunter’s day out. A thoroughly wild shoot, focusing on woodcock with the addition of snipe and teal. For the excitement of a bag bursting with variety and a shoot you can return to many times each season without emptying your pocket completely, Slebech’s wild estate wins. The house overlooks the Daucleddau Estuary, part of 600 acres of prime protected land, and also features The Park- fine dining with the epitome of local, seasonal menus. Try your hand at joining the honours boards, a set of guns who’ve successfully shot a right and left of woodcock.

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Prescombe, Wiltshire This is a shoot run with humour that places great wines as highly important. Stephen Thomas is the man responsible for both. With over 40 years of experience, and having learnt from his father at a young age, he has made a true success of the shoot. Situated between Salisbury and Shaftesbury, expect outstanding views over 30 varying drives. The 3,000 acres of land may not be as extensive as others, but for partridges it’s easily one of the best. Fantastic woodland too, with first class beating. Contact stephen@prescombesporting.com Downton, Shropshire This estate has a firm reputation, now spreading internationally as one of the most enjoyable British shoots. The converted farm buildings, complete with log fire, ensure parties are comfortable and catered for at all times. Yes, the hospitality is as remarkable as the shooting. The countryside in this area is distinctly wooded and hilly, notably the Downton Gorge - its 30m high sheer cliff, flanking the River Teme, makes for a challenging drive. So tough it keeps the experienced guns coming back. Stowell Park, Gloucestershire An incredibly private estate with a total of 6,000 acres dedicated to both agriculture and sporting activities. The house and land have been owned by the Vestey family since 1921. Its glorious setting in the Cotswold hills means the acres are the best combination of arable, grassland and woodland. With the expectation of deep valleys, you will not be disappointed: some of the highest birds on the quickest drives can be found here. This shoot is regarded highly among those who have a plethora of knowledge. Brigands, Snowdonia Brigands is an immersive experience, as you find yourself surrounded by untouched nature on the border of the Snowdonia National Park. Its valleys (created by what are better described as mountains, not hills) are cunningly covered by harsh crop, creating fast flushes of birds. The scenery is best enjoyed with topups of champagne and sloe gin. Luckily, both are routine here. A very fine drive features a waterfall backdrop, and has been crafted by nature as a testing ground, a mix of fast, slow, low and high birds, take your pick. Contact Gwyn and Ann Evans of the Bettws Hall shooting group. East Allenheads, Northumberland New to the list this year, after faultless recommendations from two of the committee for its Grouse moors. Some even say it’s now on par with Muggleswick for continuing to have record years. Praise must go to the remarkable team of Herrmann and Colmer, as well as award-winning gamekeeper Alan Edwards, whose management has bought enormous bags coupled with conservation grades. Guests have the choice to stay nearby in Langley Castle or at Slaley Hall - either will satisfy as much as the lunches. Dumbleton, Gloucestershire Whilst this may not be a commercial shoot, those in the know keep quiet among the shooting community to ensure it remains this


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way. The estate is been owned by banking family the Hambros for over 50 years. With its deep valleys it makes for some of the most unforgiving drives known. One renowned shot said he ranked it on par with Castle Hill for this specific reason. If you’re lucky enough to shoot here, watch out for a drive named “Bagel”: this requires a true expert’s eye. A real gem, only experienced by a few fortunate, now committed fans. Angmering, Sussex The archetypal model of a shoot well run by the host. Nigel is a master of his land and knows every aspect of this shoot. Which is just as well, considering the crescent shape and high points reaching above the underlying land. The 6,000 acre shoot was constructed by Nigel and Colin Cowdray over 30 years ago. A mix of careful forestry, open steep combes and agricultural land make for the perfect shooting topography. They’ve mastered tea, nibbles and lunch - and many beverages too. We envy Nigel’s knowledge and skills as much as those who get to shoot here. Contact: Nigel Clutton Tel: 01903 882220 Ashcombe, Wiltshire/Dorset border From Ashcombe’s history as a ruin rescued by Cecil Beaton in the ‘30s to Guy Richie’s Georgian gift, this estate is 1,000 acres of unspoilt undulating terrain. It’s best loved by most for its very, yes, very, challenging partridge and pheasant. There needn’t be more description for it simply is a wonderful collection of chalk valleys that most men fear. The Museum at Farnham offers rustic but great accommodation with a gastropub underneath. Lunch during the days is held in the Orangery, a beautiful respite from the winter weather. Bereleigh, Hampshire A very well established estate, boasting both mature woods and beautifully crafted newer planting. Bereleigh is spread over the Meon Valley, with some unrivalled vistas. The shoot is run with precision producing a very high-end family feel. The Georgian House accommodates most parties, and both owner Bill and his wife Philippa are expert entertainers. The dining hall and billiard room are especially good fun. The shooting is seriously good: our winning drive is “Mascombe Bottom”, a natural dip in the chalk down and in the summer host to the infamous “Lobster Shoot”. Contact: Bill Tyrwhitt-Drake Tel: 01730 823486 info@bereleigh.com Arundel, Sussex This is a shoot sprawled over two estates in the South Downs National Park. The woodlands here house one of the most ambitious conservation projects we know, and the Duke of Norfolk and his team have won Purdey awards for their efforts to re-establish a wild grey partridge population. It’s incredibly successful at achieving record bags too. Contact: Peter Knight, Estate Manager Tel: 01903 883400 Fonthill, Wiltshire A civilized shoot owned by the charming Lord Margadale and a wonderful example of Capability Brown landscaping. The distant views here really are works of art, but you can also experience some of the trickiest pheasant, and flutters of partridge within the 10,000 acres of this sporting estate. The hospitality is rated second

to none: lunch is in the Gamekeeper’s Cottage and partiers stay in nearby accommodation at Howard’s House Hotel. A beautifully classic English shoot- they even pluck your pheasants for you. Tel: 01747 820246 e mail: mail@ fonthill.co.uk

into the sport and really is a pinnacle of grouse shooting, extending to over 30,000 acres. Be prepared for exhaustingly breathtaking landscapes and drives that will have you digging deep. The ultimate combination of fast, low birds and high, slow drives.

Cocking, Sussex Renowned for its huge drives, this shoot sits on chalk downland and is part of the Cowdray Estate. Its most testing drive is the “Pit”, a valley created with chalk cliffs on either side. Here you can shoot some of the highest birds in the South-East. A few good shots have lent us their experience at this shoot, it sounds like Tim Hoare and Michael Pearson are running a welloiled…gun. www.drivenshooting.com

Chargot, Devon Talk about tailor-made topography. Chargot, on the edge of Exmoor, was made for partridge and pheasant shooting. We can’t prepare you for the extensive number of bottomless valleys that hit you here, but ask around and you’ll get some incredible stories. The day’s shooting starts in the shoot lodge, in the centre of the estate. There’s a choice of five accomodations: we suggest the Tarr Farm Inn, the perfectionist’s pub. Contact: email: will@bettwshall.com Tel: 01686 650828

Encombe, Dorset A shooting estate perched right on the sea, so it would be silly to mention the obvious. Yes, the views are mesmerising- as is the Georgian house, built by John Pitt in 1734: his famous openplan layout is now home to James and Arabella Gaggero. Encombe is not as well known as it should be, and if there’s one drive worth visiting for, it’s in the “Golden Bowl” a quintessential English valley, secluded amidst established woodland. A naturally brilliant shooting experience. Castle Hill, Devon This shoot is rated among the best, not only against others in Exmoor, but nationally. It’s too often said that each shoot has the highest bird, but there’s no argument when it comes to Castle Hill. The expertise of its Headkeeper Brian Mitchell is fundamental to rearing sky-high pheasants. We spoke to a few shots who have yet to out-do their speed. There’s some stunning salmon and trout fishing here too, as well as an impressive house. Its an all-in-one. Alnwick, Northumberland Owned by the Duke and Duchess of the county. The former is a big shooter, averaging over 100 days each year, and is among the elite owners who are committed to encouraging wild game. The main shoot covers 5,000 acres of Hulne Park and is always a quality bag. However, the few days a year (four double) that are let shoot outside the park, where the bag can be astonishingly varied. The team here pride themselves on offering a bespoke service, resulting in many return visitors. Contact: Alnwick Estate office Tel: 01665 510777 Holkham, Norfolk 300 years of the Earls of Leicester, all of whom have added to the planting here, means you can be among some of the oldest woodland in England. There’s also a lake, otherwise known as a sanctuary, that isn’t shot but admired by all. The 10,000 acres of land here on the North Norfolk coast is spoiling; it was a favourite shoot of King Edward VII, a real gentleman. So for a break in a Palladian mansion, a memorable day’s shooting and perhaps a stroll on the neverending beach or some owl spotting, this is the place. Tel: 01328 710227 www.holkham.co.uk Gunnerside, North Yorkshire Another of Yorkshire’s great grouse moors. This isolated shoot is a haven for throwing yourself

Linhope, Cheviot Hills A shoot that has had some thoughtful investment. Located near Alnwick, owner James Percy has given this estate much precious time, putting it firmly on the map for partridge shooting. More recently, James has seen a huge increase in the number of grouse, and, to the admiration of many, he continues to be one of the country’s best shots, especially with this bird. If you’re lucky enough to shoot here, and even more privileged to be rewarded with his advice, listen carefully. www.williampowellsporting.com Molland, Devon Molland is synonymous with high-flying birds on Exmoor. Split into two beats, West and East, you will be inundated with birds purely due to the abundance of drives. This estate is part of Bettws Hall owned by Mrs Throckmorton. Molland totals 5,000 acres, and features a handful of drives rated in the top ten: “Inkwell” gives especially exhilarating pheasants. Watch out for the stag and red deer - they run wild here. www.bettwshall.com Muggleswick, Co. Durham This is the property of Jeremy Herrmann, who is an aspiration to most countrymen. The shoot is famed for its red grouse, abundant on this magical moor. We spoke to a few people who frequent this shoot and they all spoke warmly of the owner. If you’re a keen fly fishermen you can enjoy that too. www.williampowellcountry.com Drumlanrig on the Queensberry Estate This Belongs to the Duke of Buccleuch, and offers a huge variety of shooting in magnificent scenery, with 25 drives covering 15,000 acres. Pheasant days range from double gun driven days to waked-up shooting with dogs or hawks. The recent addition of partridges is now very highly rated by people in the know. There’s also 25,000 acres of heather moorland for first class grouse. Buccleuch Sporting Office Tel: 01848 600415 Belvoir Castle, Rutland Head keeper Tim Rolfe and shoot captain Phil Burtt are bee-lining for the title of the best shoot in England. We say they’re not far off. This 16,000 acre estate is owned by the Duke of Rutland. For parties who wish to stay in the castle, you can be privy to a private tour, exemplary food and a good night’s sleep before attempting to draw the biggest bag yet. Contact: Megan Turner Tel: 01476 871004

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Tweed Flat Cap £55 William Evans - williamevans.com

t

h

e

Electronic Ear Defenders £235

Purdey - purdey.com Scarf £150 Purdey - purdey.com

St James Tweed Shooting Jacket £595 William Evans williamevans.com

Silk Cartidge Tie £45 William Evans williamevans.com

Dark Green Tweed Waistcoat £350 Purdey - purdey.com

Shot Gun £80,000 Purdey - purdey.com

Garter Green Socks £45 Purdey - purdey.com

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Green Tweed Shooting Breeks £130 William Evans - williamevans.com

Balmoral Sovereign Boots £275 Hunter - hunter-boot.com


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what to wear and where to buy it

Tweed Flat Cap £55 William Evans williamevans.com

Checked Shirt £60 William Evans - williamevans.com Silk Shooter Tie £30 William Evans - williamevans.com

Dark Green Tweed Waistcoat £350 Purdey - purdey.com

Guncover With Fleece Lining £1,300

Purdey purdey.com Waterproof Jacket £599 Barbour - barbour.com

Dark Green Tweed Shooting Breeks £130 William Evans - williamevans.com

Balmoral Sovereign Boots £275 Hunter hunter-boot.com www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Autumn 2013 |

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appreciate the sport and what was your first memory? Sitting, aged 6, in the middle seat of a 1970s Land Rover in pouring rain driving up an impossible slope in Dumfriesshire and loving every minute- from getting 5p a day for flanking to standing with my dad in a grouse drive to starting with a four ten at the age of 12.

Q&A WITH

LORD JAMES PERCY

The thing you couldn’t live without? Fishing.

Gunmaker of choice?

Lord James Percy is considered to be one of the outstanding shots of his generation and along with his brother, the Duke of Northumberland, they make up what is known in the shooting world as the dreaded Percy Sandwich. James has his own estate, Linhope in the Cheviot Hills in Northumberland. Over the years he has built up a formidable reputation on the tall birds, however it’s said that grouse is where he is truly outstanding. Since 2004 James has been a brand ambassador for Barbour clothing, helping create three ranges all with shooting in mind and all of which are tried and tested by himself and his team of keepers. The Gentleman’s Journal caught up with him to find out a few of his favourite things about the sport and some of his earliest memories. Your favourite shooting estate (not including your own)? I think Drumlanrig estate would be the ultimate place. Grouse, high pheasants, salmon and sea trout, lochs, amazing trees, loads of pigeons and a fairy tale castle.

Favourite drive? Blueberry grouse butts at Linhope.

Your most memorable day’s shooting? There are many amazing days in many beautiful places. It would probably be the November day 20 years ago when my brother and I shot 370 pigeons in three hours in a gale on top of a hill with views for 50 miles.

You have been a brand ambassador for Barbour for many years nowwhat, in your view, makes the brand so special? I think that Barbour, the British countryside and all the wonderful traditions that are associated with it seem to be inextricably

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entwined and while imposters come and go, there remains at heart the iconic brand that is Barbour, born and bred in the North East.

What makes a good shooting jacket? Many things. Ergonomic design to move with the body and arm positions, the right material cut to give no impediment to swingthat is, light without being flimsy, substantial without being weighty, quiet, waterproof if necessary, non-shiny, where collar does not get in the way, and plenty of deep easy access pockets. Finally it needs a little magic, which sometimes only comes with being worn for some time.

Who’s the better shot, you or your brother? My brother. He is very focused and maintains a steady very high standard. I suffer from terrible highs and lows - the highs can be quite good but when the wheels come off I am rubbish- generally through not having a clear mind, occasionally through injury and sometimes from being plain lazy and just lacking in natural talent.

What age did you really begin to

| Autumn 2013 • www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk

Purdey.

Car of choice for a day’s shooting? A Land Rover Discovery with good tyres.

What other hobbies do you have other than shooting? Tennis, skiing, fishing, writing, conservation and habitat creation.

What, in your view, is the key to running a successful shooting estate? Get the best team of people you can and look after them. For commercial days, make every day as special for your guest as it would be for a home day. Make lots of money elsewhere to pay for the running of the estate and view the losses as the payment you make for the privilege of owning such a place.

Favourite breed of gun dog? Labrador or spaniel.

What is your favourite type of shot? Anything that is fast, probably crossing or incoming grouse, or pigeons flaring on the wind

Pheasant or grouse? Grouse- every time. Though on a wild, windy day, shooting pheasants is brilliant.

Interview by Harry Jarman


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1812 - 2012 Bicentenary Gun

manufacturers of best guns Fine selection of guns available All repair work undertaken

For all enquiries please contact Roy Lyu Boss & Co Gunmakers Ltd, Richmond, Surrey Tel: 020 7493 1127 Fax: 020 8605 3684

www.BoSSGunS.Com www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Autumn 2013

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with the first barrel and will have no chance with the second.

Tips to make sure you hit the high birds this season

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lmost everyone who shoots considers themselves to be an excellent shot. This is the nature of the sport, and if you happen to miss an easy bird there’s always be some sort of excuse that you will no doubt share after the drive ends. The question is what really makes a good shot? We believe that a good shot has the ability to shoot high birds over and over again. A high bird is one that is over 45-50 yards above you. Once the bird is over 40 yards away your shot to hit average will significantly decrease.

T

The Pall Mall Shotgun by William Evans

here is usually a high price to pay for bespoke British manufacturing, especially in the world of gun making. We’ve found a gun of unbeatable craftsmanship at a fraction of the cost you’d expect. The Pall Mall side-by-side shotgun is one of the most secure investments we can advise in this climate. William Evans, the famous St James Street gunsmiths has collaborated with its formidable Spanish counterpart, Grulla Arman. Between them the companies have

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There are some key areas that make the crucial difference between a hit and a miss (apart from the obvious one of whether or not you um, hit it). Some of these may seem so small that you don’t need to worry about them- but these small changes on the ground can result in you being yards away or on target in the air.” The biggest mistake that people make is not being in line with the bird. This is most often a result of leaning back and not getting under the bird. What is meant by being “under the bird’ is getting behind it and following though. If you start in front then you will more than likely miss the bird

over over two centuries of experience, and like most successful partnerships, sharing is key. Your measurements are taken in London and sent (by pheasant) to Grulla who use state of the art performance engineering to manufacture the proof stage based on Evans’ design blueprint. The gun, with a durable seven pin side-lock pattern returns to London, now resembling a royal swan with elegant English lines and a white body. By this stage you will have personally chosen your grip, straight, pistol or Prince

| Autumn 2013 • www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk

Another key area where people go wrong is mounting the gun too soon. This will result in you not following through enough, due to you travelling the same speed as the bird. By mounting the gun just before it reaches shooting distance, the gun will be travelling the same distance, but you will more likely get under the bird and follow through properly. Another key element is your footwork. This is essential, but doesn’t mean you need make great big steps forward. The main thing to remember is to finish square, which you can achieve by addressing the bird and taking only a gentle step forward to ready yourself. Apart from over-stepping, the other obvious one is leaning back and putting your weight on your back foot, which will more then likely result in you stumbling back into your loader- never a good thing. All these tips will greatly improve your chance- but the fact remains that practice makes perfect.

of Wales design, and your stocks, made to measure. The interior is bespoke down to the choice of either H&H pattern or plunger style self-opening mechanism. Back in the capital, blacking the barrels, fine-tuning the mechanisms, chequering the stock and engraving is left to the best of British hand finishes. Standard specifications are intercepting safety scars, gold-line cocking indicators, double triggers and barrels, made of Belotta nickel chromium are proofed for all modern rounds, including steel. If you want to further the spec at a very reasonable cost, an invisible Teague system can be fitted, as well as luxury grade walnut stocks. Pall Mall can be ordered in 12, 16, 20, 28 or 410 calibres and the choice of barrel lengths range from 25” to 32”. For this truly tailor-made, custom-built game gun, you’d only expect to wait a maximum of four months. We can honestly declare this the highest quality value for money shotgun on the market. Ready, aim…purchase! Prices starting at £15,000 (plus VAT and a lifetime warranty on all mechanised parts).


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Sporting Allrounder MWB0405OL51

Now in stock, Barbour’s new Autumn Winter sporting collection for men and women.

For your nearest stockist visit www.barbour.com www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Autumn 2013

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PROPERTY

SKI CHALETS

Is Now a Good Time to Buy?

M

any of us dream of having a Ski Chalet as a second home. Sure, they might not be as impressive as owning a Superyacht in the South of France - but then again, neither is throwing millions of pounds down a big, black hole (although, come to think of it, that’s also the impressive thing about owning a Superyacht). A Ski Chalet, on the other hand, is an investment- and a pretty enjoyable one at that. Not to mention the possible tax benefits, regular exercise, clear cool air and that wonderful feeling when you sit in front of the fire after a long day’s skiing. If this sounds like everything you lust after, then now may be the time to buy. With Britain seeming to be on the cusp of economic recovery while much of Europe is still limping along, there has never 114

been a better time to buy. With the arrival of the cool, slick Canadian Governor of the Bank of England, Mark Carney, confidence seems to be even higher and this is showing. Jeremy Rollason, Managing Director of Savills Alpine Homes says: ‘there has been a resurgence in the Alpine property market in 2013. This is down to three key factors: confidence, cash and canniness.’ Or, shall we say, Carneyness (sorry, couldn’t resist). After 2008, buyers were put off by weak exchange rates and the uncertainty it brought to overseas property. Whilst Europe’s problems are not at all good, it does mean that there are good deals to be had. The great thing about these Alpine dreams is that there’s something for everyone regardless of whether your budget is £50,000 or £30 million, or whether you’re looking in

| Autumn 2013 • www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk

Eastern Europe, France, Austria or Switzerland. Switzerland remains the ultimate and the safest investment. However, this also means an expensive investment - you won’t get much change from a million. Another downside is that in recent years there have been complex rules about home ownership and second homes, so make sure you do your research. France is second favourite. Some industry experts we spoke to while researching this piece advised to search outside the larger, better known resorts for the best deals. This means don’t bother with St Moritz or Val d’lsère - you might as well look at Verbier. Basically it all comes down to your ego: the smaller it is, the more money you will save and, potentially, make.


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Next up, we move to Austria, which, apart from having hardly noticed the recession, is also getting pretty popular with the British- and like its neighbours in Switzerland, you can expect steady growth in house prices. Then there’s Italy, which seems to have a questionable reputation. Some say that even before the recession the prices didn’t make sense - closing costs there are often a further 10% on top of the purchase price. You really have to love it for it to make sense.

correct us if we’re wrong, but that’s not bad for a second home. Countries such as Slovenia and Montenegro don’t just offer low house prices, but also some of the most beautiful scenery in both summer and winter. Again, buying in Eastern Europe comes down to your ego. If you’re the type that likes to brag to their friends over a pint or to the person on your left at a dinner party, then it’s probably best you stick to Verbs and Courchevel. If you can afford it, that is.

For those of you who are the adventurous type, countries in Eastern Europe really do offer a bargain. Slovenia is at the top of our list and prices are as low as £45,000 -

So if you’re thinking of buying, it seems there has been no better time to do so. And with interest rates set to stay where they are, property will probably give you a better return than the bank, and be much more enjoyable than looking at the money section of the Sunday papers. As Jeremy Rollason of Savills puts it, ‘buyers have waited in the wings during the crisis but have emerged with greater confidence, owing to improved job security and a clearer picture of interest rates and the wider economy. With most European banks offering more conservative loan to value rates (closer to 50% than pre crisis levels of 70%-80%), more and more of our buyers are now cash rich and some elect not to take mortgages at all. This leaves them in a better negotiating position and the canny few are able to negotiate sizeable discounts, particularly for resale properties, where asking prices are a little optimistic. Sales volumes were up 30% on 2012 levels to the half year, so the immediate outlook in the Alps is sunny with high blue skies.’

So if you’re thinking of buying, it seems there has been no better time to do so; the immediate outlook in the Alps is sunny with high blue skies!

PROPERTY

It seems like now is the time to strike. Harry Jarman

www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk • Autumn 2013

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O N

PROPERTY

T H E M A R K E T L O N D O N Flat on Ledbury Road IThis is what they meant when they said that Notting Hill was desirable. It’s slap bang in the middle of one of the coolest areas of London – near the infamous Portobello road, with its boho-luxe market, and Westbourne Grove, a shopping street lined with irresistible brands such as Daylesford and Zadig & Voltaire. It’s a two bedroom upper maisonette with a study which could be used as a third bedroom. The flat has loft-style exposed brick walls, oak flooring and luxurious roll-top baths from William Holland. It’s light and airy and deeply wantable. If you’re after a taste of New York living in London, look no further.

Agent: John D. Wood Tel: +44 (0) 20 7727 2233 Price: £2,595,000 Putney Houseboat This is a boat. That is also a house. Yes, yes, we know that’s what a houseboat is – but we’d never seen one so… well, big before. One that really would make an amazing home. They were all a bit cramped. But this – this is humongous. There’s a walk-in wardrobe in the master bedroom, for goodness’ sake! And it’s pretty darn cool, too. Imagine waking up to birdsong and good clean salty river air every morning, or being rocked to sleep at night by gentle waves. It’s got three further bedrooms and one more bathroom (the master is en suite, natch), plus a vast open-plan living area. For a London property that is unlike any other, it has to be a houseboat. Specifically, this houseboat.

Agent: Chesterton Humberts Tel: +44 (0) 208 246 5959 Price: £1,850,000

Mayfair Townhouse This is a sumptuous, classical London townhouse – the apotheosis of oldschool elegance. You’d expect nothing less from the former home of Beau Brummel, who famously polished his shoes with champagne (it’s also been the residence of a Duke of Devonshire and Anthony Eden). With three ensuite bedrooms, each of which has its own floor, plus another two bedrooms and a bathroom on the fourth floor, you’re not likely to run out of space. And when you factor in the sun room, two patios and two terraces (one on the roof), not to mention the kitchen, dining room and study, the hang-out areas quickly shoot into double figures.

Agent: UK Sotheby’s Realty Tel: +44 (0) 20 7495 9580 Price: £8,950,000

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The Great Durnford Estate This nine-bedroom Manor House dates back to the early 18th Century. Although the exterior is in pristine condition, it might feel the inside needs some subtle personalization. The house is situated on the bank of the River Avon, boasting some of the best chalk stream fishing in the UK. This sporting estate is just six miles from Salisbury, and a direct train to Waterloo from Andover takes a mere hour. The estate covers 50 acres of arable, pasture and woodland - typical Woodford Valley terrain. The undulating topography makes for exquisite vistas. In addition to the Manor are five estate cottages, with the option of farm accommodation or further income. This is an estate for a true countryman: you can delve into country life, it’s a haven for pheasant shooting... and only an hour from the City.

The Little House, Godalming This is luxury contemporary living with the feel of a classic country cottage. The Little House has four bedrooms, all of which were part of the recently-completed and extensive (and no doubt expensive) restoration and refurbishment. The period features are showcased with demure taste but impeccable detailing. It provides all the necessary gadgets as well as precision construction in the plumbing, wiring, electric, heating and sound system. The real showpieces include a no-luxury-left-out bathroom, vaulted ceilings and woodburning stoves in all reception rooms. For the ultimate heart of the home, this house is fitted with a handmade Figura kitchen, using granite worktops and - why not? - a bespoke spiral wine cellar. The grounds are as wonderful as the house, if not better. The gardens are prim yet utterly natural and there is a sizeable pond whilst rural fields frame the backdrop perfectly.

Agent: Savills Tel: +44 (0) 20 7409 8882 Price: Guide Price £8,000,000

Agent: Hamptons Tel: +44 (0)1432 273 087 Price: £2,400,800

Clock House, Sussex The Clock House is an exceptional example of bona fide Arts and Crafts Architecture. This Grade II listed family property is nestled in the outstandingly beautiful South Downs. The interior, comprising eight bedrooms, is impressively decorated with architectural features including oak strip flooring, detailed carved wood paneling, moldings, architraves, exposed timber, parquet flooring and two grand oak staircases. The craftsmanship through this property, built by Barry Parker in 1913, is impeccable. The generously spaced rooms on the ground floor include a kitchen with original glazed brick tiling, open storage larder room, gas fired Aga and Belfast sinks. The drawing room features an oak bean providing recessed fireplace with curved flue and bench seating. It seems there is a spectacle in every room: the hall is framed by a Lutyens-style tall leaded stained glass window. The grounds of just under seven acres are equally splendid. To the East you can find a heated, purified salt water pool, sunken rose garden, orchards and a biodynamic garden. Further wonders include a six door garage, luxurious basement with wine cellar and room for leisure suite. Agent: John D Wood & Co. | Tel: +44 (0)20 7908 1108 Price: £2,350,000

O N

T H E M A R K E T C O U N T R Y

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LUXURY 4, 5 & 6 BEDROOM WATERFRONT HOMES 650 acre Cotswold estate / 90 minutes from London / award winning spa £1,000,000 to £4,000,000 freehold property not to be used as primary residence


WE TAKE CARE OF YOUR TIME OUT ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS TURN UP

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| Autumn 2013 • www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk

Email: info@greycoatlumleys.co.uk Telephone: +44 (0)20 7233 9950 Online: www.greycoatlumleys.co.uk


Dinner Jackets | Morning Suits | Tailcoats & Smoking Jackets Tailoring & Alterations | Accessories

WELCOME TO BUCKLEIGH OF LONDON. We are traditional, bespoke tailors specialising in the hire of top quality gentlemens formal wear for all occasions. Described by our customers as ‘Chelsea’s hidden secret’, we are a family-run business, proud of the personal, friendly and discreet service we offer. We always aim to ‘dress to impress’ – the exceptional craftsmanship offered by our tailors and the fine quality of our garments ensures our customers look impeccable whenever they wear our clothes. A: 83 Lower Sloane Street | London SW1W 8DA | Tel/Fax: 0207 730 0770 E: buckleighoflondon@hotmail.com | www.buckleighoflondon.com


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Directory | Stockists DIRECTORY

1.

4. 2. 3. 6.

5.

7.

9. 8.

1. James Maberly - Leaping Wildebeest in Bronze. £POA. maberly-art.com. 2. Cobra & Bellamy – SENNEN. The latest watch from the up and coming Cobra & Bellamy, Sienna Miller has one! £159. cobra-and-bellamy-watches.co.uk 3. Taylor of Old Bond Street Badger brush and Sandalwood shaving Cream. £53. tayloroldbondst.co.uk. 4. Truefitt & Hill - Pre Shave Oil, it has ten essential oils for glide, moisturizing, healing and conditioning the skin. Protects and softens skin and beard. £20. truefittandhill.co.uk. 5. Beaufort & Blake - The Paisley shirt. Beaufort & Blake are a distinctively british brand formed in 2012, they make fabulous dress shirts with various designs along with boxer shorts and socks. A must have for the black tie season. £62. beaufortandblake.co.uk. 6. James Wild Sculptures - Be it a subtle desk piece or an extravagant large statement for the garden, James’s pieces are the perfect addition. £POA. jameswildsculptures.co.uk. 7. Baybrook & Britten - Pheasant Enamel & Silver Cufflinks. Beautifully crafted by British silvermiths, Baybrook & Britten have a fantastic range of cufflinks. £200. braybrook.co.uk. 8. Woodwear - Melrose Wood Sunglasses. These sunglasses are eco-friendly and hand crafted from bamboo, they look great and come with polarized lenses to ensure the correct eye protection. $120. woodwearsunglasses.com. 9. WeWood - Date Beige/Brown. WeWood watches are made from 100% wood and a tree is planted for every watch sold. So if you want to go green, this is the watch for you. £70. we-wood.com.au

STOCKISTS Ahura collectables – www.ahuracollectables.co.uk | Anderson Wheeler – www.andersonwheeler.co.uk | Barbour – www.barbour. com | Bates – www.bates-hats.com | Boodles – www.boodles.com | Burberry – www.burberry.com | Canada Goose – www.canadagoose.com | Cartier – www.cartier.co.uk | Chopard – www.chopard.com | Chucs – www.chucs.com | Church’s – www.church-footwear. com | Crombie – www.crombie.co.uk | Docksteps – www.docksteps.com | Gieves and Hawkes – www.gievesandhawkes.com | Givenchy – www.givenchy.com | Grenson – www.grenson.co.uk | Hackett – www.hackett.com | Hackett – www.hackett.com | Herring – www.herringshoes.co.uk | Hugo Boss – www.hugoboss.com | Hunter – www.hunter-boot.com | J Crew – www.jcrew.com | Jaeger LeCoultre – www.jaeger-lecoultre.com | John Lobb – www.johnlobbltd.co.uk | John Smedley – www.johnsmedly.com | Loro Piana – www.loropiana.com | Mont Blanc – www.montblanc.com | Mulberry – www.mulberry.com | Musto – www.musto.com | Napapijri – www.napapijri.com | Oliver Spencer – www.oliverspencer.co.uk | Paco Rabanne – www.pacorabanne.com | Purdey – www.purdey. com | Reiss – www.reiss.com | Richard James – www.richardjames.co.uk | Topman Design – www.topman.com | Vacheron Constantin – www.vacheron-constantin.com | Versace – www.versace.com | Vivienne Westwood – www.viviennewestwood.co.uk | Wildsmith – www.wildsmith.com | William Evans – www.williamevans.com

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Diary The

By Catie Elliot

y

BMW Global Reveal Part

Glorious Goodwood

day

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Bruce Boomtown Birth


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Marissa Hermer

Rosie Cerosio and Liesbeth Wright James Blunt and Sofia Wellesley

Boujis 10th Anniversary Ibiza

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley

Matt Hermer and Marissa Herme

Naomi Boliveira, Maristela Soare and Fenanda Ferrara

Yesterday morning saw the annual phone-staring comp between Ibiza’s VIPs. They were all waiting for the infamous text from Boujis, letting them in on the secret location of their 10th Anniversary beach bash. Rosie Huntington-Whiteley was one of the winners, arriving to S’Estanyol beach totally bronzed, barefaced and with a bevy of blonde BFFs. The party was full of glamour (and the occasional glowstick) as Rosie Cerosio and Liesbeth Wright decorated themselves with neon streaks. Boujis boss Matt Hermer seemed to enjoy the casual dress code as he supplied guests with Magnum after Magnum of Dom Perignon and buckets of Belvedere. The tunes included the best of Stef Manni and Sam Young, with DJ Flavio playing well into the early hours of the next day. Tara Reid was fresh from frolicking with Jedward, whilst James Blunt seemed smitten with girlfriend Sofia Wellesley, their PDA was a-OK. Phones at the ready for next year…

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THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL Isabella Hervey-Bathurst, David Tollemache

Carl Waxberg, Nadia Mansoor, Taylor McWilliams

Taylor McWilliams, Harry Banks, Bertie DeKlee Robert Sancroft-Baker, Camilla Baring

The morning after David Tollemache and his brother Tom hosted a party to celebrate great friendships (why not), the guests crawled out from all areas of the beautiful grounds onto the front lawn. The remnants of this wild crowd’s shenanigans included plenty of nipple tassles, and one burnt bottom… despite the ice sculpture which was on hand to cool any burns.

Francis Asher, Nadia Mansoor, Kirsty Davies

Philip Bierl, Henry Smith, Tom Tollemache, Barnes Hawkins, Natasha Hamilton-Ely, Agi Fielder

Poppy Delevingne

Glastonbury in Gloucestershire

As they had arrived the previous evening, dressed for the “Alice goes to Glastonbury” theme, they were welcomed Allie Gillon Livesey, Isabella by unlimited vodka for the night- no wonder things got so Hervey Bathurst wild. There was a yurt perched above the pool hosting the musical talent of Freddie Lower and Georgie Olley. This in turn was linked to the main marquee by extravagant and bizarre decorations, where a brace of Housekeeping Boys kept the dancefloor spinning until 9am. As the campfire roared with the help of a slightly singed James East, guests chomped on a festival favourite of Hog Roast pulled pork. As the evening peaked a few tearful speeches wowed the crowd: there was a premature farewell to Tom who is due to head to Afghanistan, and a touching tribute to the world’s best husband. Awards for headline acts go to Nadia Manzoor for her deliciously edible costume and Phineas Page for his sheer stamina.

Oliver Cheshire

Amber Le Bon and Jack Guinness

Ella Catliff

BMW Global Reveal Party

James Franco, Sienna Miller and Ian Robertson

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BMW launched its new era of electric mobility with the i3 car at Old Billingsgate Market with a bevy of beautiful blondes. The evening was hosted by the dashing James Franco, who donned Gucci threads, and Sienna Miller beaming in a Dolce and Gabbana cocktail sundress. The fashion pack supporting BMW’s new emission-free initiative included the queen of the party scene Poppy Delevingne, overheard saying ‘I’m all about green’. Wow, that rhymes. Starting the party was Amber Le Bon as DJ for the night - rock star royalty with a wardrobe to match. Royal-in-law-to-be (maybe) Donna Air arrived solo looking slim and sleek in Louis Vuitton. However our best dressed for the night was the undeniably ethereal Laura Bailey, in pastel hues of Prada and YSL.

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Michael Owen and Magnolia Cup winner, Philippa Holland

Lady Natasha Rufus Isaacs

Lavinia Brennan and Lady Natasha Rufus Isaacs with jockey Alexis Green wearing her Beulah silk

Celebrity Ladies Race

Zara Phillips

Francessca Cumani

Glorious Goodwood - Ladies Day Glorious Goodwood is always one of the most stylish racing events of the year. This year the sun arrived fashionably late, casting a summery haze over ladies’ day. Royal racing belle Zara Philips showed off her baby bump alongside Bill Nighy and the Earl of March and Kinrara inside Audi’s race-side box. There were three standout wins of the week. The first saw Michael Owen’s ‘Brown Panther’ take victory in the Goodwood Cup. The second came the next day as Harry Redknapp, in recovery for knee surgery, missed the win of his part-owned ‘Moviesta’ in the King Charles stakes. Last but definitely not least was Philippa Holland’s second win on the trot in the Magnolia Cup on ladies’ day. She fought off Francesca Cumani and Dido Harding. Spectacular form with plenty of celebrating, we look forward to next year!

Ladies Jockeys Before thr Race

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Finn Bruce and The Twilight Players

Daisy Jenks of Jenks & Co.

Catty Pearson and Natasha Douglas

Bruce Boomtown Birthday If having a festival in your back garden isn’t enough, then do what Finn Bruce did and create a VIP Boomtown Bash. The exclusive 21st birthday party was held at the festival on the Matterley Estate, a stone’s throw from the Bruces’ family home. The theme was stars and stripes, carried off by the crowd impeccably, with every festival goer glammed up - even after three days of partying. The setting was spectacular: fire pits and slouchy seats overlooking the infamous bowl shaped venue. Special act Eddie Chilvers played Eminem, House of Pain and even Frank Sinatra. Later, dance act The Twilight Players performed moves of swing, jazz, latin, and, um, Indian disco. Meanwhile Daisy Jenks bopped around getting everyone to perform for a video which condensed the whole evening into three minutes of fun.

Annie Leigh, Minna Bruce and Jesslica Littlewood

Peveril Bruce Of Salloch giving his speech

Eddie Chilvers

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Robert Gwyther, Finn Bruce and Finn Bruce

Tom Leader

India Clevely

Arcadia

Natasha Douglas


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Lead Lady

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ding y

K

atie Readman is most definitely our kind of girl. For one thing, look at her: she’s gorgeous. For another, breakfast is her favourite meal of the day – she loves nothing more than tucking into a plate of bacon and eggs. And, on top of all of that, she’s been commended by the UN for her work on human trafficking. Just back from LA, she chats chirpily about other adventures – that time she went to Brazil for a wedding and ended up staying for a month and a half (‘it was such a freeing, exciting time,’ she says), or her Duke of Edinburgh Gold Award. It’s not all travel, though – she loves England best of all and is a home girl at heart. At weekends she loves nothing more than having dinner parties at her flat in Notting Hill, followed by a morning’s window shopping along the Ledbury Road. Or alternatively she might pop down to her family’s cottage in Oxfordshire for long walks, roast chicken and Sunday papers. She’s been working in PR for a couple of years and is now turning her sights to her creative side. ‘I’d love to be writing about fashion and lifestyle,’ she sighs. Til then, though, she’s busy planning her outfit for a friend’s annual Hallowe’en party. ‘It’s always the best night of the year,’ she explains, ‘A great house, extravagantly decorated, and a lovely group of friends.’ Photos and styling: Adam De Silva Pyjamas: Beautiful Bottoms Jewellery: Daisy Knights Shoes: Kat Maconie Shot on location at Ed’s Diner, Mayfair. Text: Violet Hudson

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Wisteria Collection | +44 (0)20 7437 5050 | boodles.com

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