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Editor’s Letter Last month I found myself at a rather bizarre dinner party with a group of high-spirited, eccentric individuals. Among the guests were the likes of rising sassy actors and creative musicians. Somehow, my expectations of an equally vivacious line-up of dinner party chatter was extinguished when someone brought up the rather predictable – I’m struggling for conversation inspiration – question, “What guests would be at your dream dinner party?” A few exasperated sighs blew out around the table as the normal, equally predictable, names were thrown around; Winston Churchill, Nelson Mandela, Stephen Fry and, of course, The Dalai Lama, at which point I lost all hope that any form of enlightened conversation would return. “The Yellow Earl” someone piped up from the other end of the table. It came, surprisingly, from one of the lesser eccentric guests, a gentleman named Charlie. Intrigued, the conversation swiftly turned to questioning him on this very out stories about the fascinating life of The Yellow Earl aka the 5th Earl of Lonsdale, Hugh Lowther. What started out as relief swiftly turned to enrapture as we learnt about the life of a pure eccentric; an individual and aristocrat who makes even the most extravagant billionaire businessmen today seem modest. Still hooked the following day, I scanned the internet trying to track down more information on the still rather enigmatic Hugh Lowther. A few minutes in, I stumbled across a book called The Yellow Earl by Douglas Sutherland. Although long out of print, I managed to abandoned as I found myself completely ensconced in the life of Hugh Lowther, The 5th Earl of Lonsdale, who I discovered became known as ‘The Yellow Earl’ simply because of his love of the colour. His eccentricities were so profound that he had twenty Rolls-Royces, all of which were painted yellow. This is just the tip of his lavish lifestyle. In short, what I found was a lost story that made even Downton Abbey seem futile by comparison. It was a true story of a real gentleman who took living life to new levels in a society where eccentricity and reckless behaviour were shunned. Quite simply, he lived like a Russian Oligarch billionaire for the majority of his life and had an article (pg 16). What struck me most was that with all the extravagant highs in his life came equal measurements of lows, involving bankruptcy and a string of family disputes which, despite being catastrophic, make for a great read.
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At The Gentleman’s Journal, we make it our duty to uncover stories that will fascinate our readers. Above all, we thrive in telling stories about successful individuals. In this issue, Emma Corbett has done just this about Richard Branson. We know what you’re thinking, “she’s not going to tell us anything new about one of the most publicly known businessmen worldwide.” Correct, to an extent. What she has done however has gone deeper than just listing his extensive achievements, which are so often churned out, and delved into his character, broaching the subjects of retirement, family and one of his extraordinary aims for the future (pg 12). Following very much in the footsteps of the latest trends this season, we have woven a 1920s theme throughout the issue in anticipation of the release of Baz Luhrmann’s much-awaited adaptation of Fitzgerald’s novel, ‘The Great Gatsby.’ Finn Bruce, our Photography Editor, has taken on the challenge in this issue of capturing the old with the new with the help of some of Britain’s hottest acting talent in his Great Gatsby style photo-shoot (pg 24). Taking the 1920s craze one step further, Robbie Gwyther probes into the Golden Years of Hollywood with some tell-tale stories of the biggest stars to come out of the era. For the rich and famous, the 1920s was a Golden Age of excess fascination with the era so poignant is the fact that our generation is wrapped up in economic struggle. The disparity between what we want and what we can afford makes for a harsh picture. Like Hugh Lowther, we want to live a life that in reality we can’t afford, dreaming of a place beyond our reach. Or is it out of reach? I’ll leave you with a quote from Sir Richard Branson, whose billions started off with just £100, “The brave may not live forever, but the cautious do not live at all.” Enjoy. | HARRY JARMAN
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THE THE GENTLEMAN’S GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL JOURNAL
CONTENTS
THE
HEADLINES
THE GOLDEN AGE OF HOLLYWOOD P .84 G
T
he roaring lion of Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer is
of the last 100 years, but where did it all begin? The Golden Years of Hollywood is an age littered with an abundance of larger than life characters... Does the Hollywood of today hold even an ounce of the glamour it did from the 20’s to the 60’s? What stories lie behind the screen?
B
THE WATCH
Pg. 12 - To Be A Branson
PG.38
reitling and Bentley may not seem like the most obvious partnership, but on
brands with much in common. They share the same philosophy that is built on the combination of prestige, performance and excellence.
YOUNG THESPIANS
T
Pg. 20 - Duke of Windsor - Style Icon
PG.24
he young up and coming British actors of 2013, led by Rupert Evans talk projects, style, and experiences in this 1920s themed shoot. Interviews and a closer look at the clothing can be found on our GJTV YouTube Channel.
Pg. 76 - Nicholas Wainright
Pg. 94 - The King Of Games
BENTLEY GTC
H
PG.72
ow does the new GTC Bentley Convertible compare to its predecessors and competitors? Nothing like an eventful soirée through central London during rush hour with Alex Nall-Cain
M
Pg. 100 - Somerley House anet (1832-83) painted portraits
exhibition devoted entirely to his portraits. In this article we look at the staggering feat of drawing together more than 50 paintings by Manet that have been assembled in this country.
MANET EXHIBITION PG.56
Front Cover Image © Dorothy Wilding
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Pg. 118 - The Leading Lady
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CONTRIBUTORS Art critic, art historian, journalist and art dealer, Terence Rodrigues is a well-
GEORGE GARNIER George Garnier is a British fashion and portrait photographer. He was educated at Eton College and from there went on to study Fine Art at Central St Martins in London. After four years of studying and assisting he left St Martins to set up his own studio in Bermondsey, South East London. George has built up his reputation as a photographer with a particular eye for mens fashion and tailoring. Since then he has photographed many political
He lectured at Oxford before joining Christie’s. He was made a Director but left Christie’s and is now an International Art Consultant, advising private clients on art acquisitions and sales, valuations etc. He has lectured in the UK and abroad as well as writing for publications such as The Telegraph and Vogue. He covers a very wide area of the arts, from Old Masters to Contemporary and the decorative arts.
TERENCE RODRIGUES
TANYA ROSE & MARTIN TURNER Tanya is known as “The Voice of Luxury Travel” and is founder of the successful travel PR Company Mason Rose. Tanya is individuals and celebrities around the world, and known for her expert knowledge of the luxury travel sector. Martin is a communications consultant, journalist, scriptwriter, and a senior lecturer in Event Management. Martin has travelled extensively all his life and has a wealth of personal and professional travel experience.
Blair and David Cameron.
Alan Russell heads up ‘Russell Simpson’, a property company he started in 1979. His staff offer substantial knowledge and expertise on buying, selling and letting in the central London property market. Whilst clients in order to make moving home
MARK HIX Celebrated chef, restaurateur and food writer Mark Hix is known for his original take on British gastronomy: After 17 years as Chef Director at Caprice in 2008, and has since opened a further ter & Fish House and the award-winning Mark’s Bar, all to great critical acclaim. He is frequently lauded as one of London’s most eminent restaurateurs with an unrivalled knowledge of ingredients with provenance. Mark has a monthly column in Esquire, a weekly column in The Independent, and is the author of a number of cookbooks on British cuisine.
Simpson has earned its reputation as a ‘boutique’ estate agent by providing a discreet and personal service primarily within the high net worth area of the Royal Borough of Kensington & Chelsea and surrounding locations.
ALAN RUSSELL
NINA CAMPBELL Nina Campbell is one of the world’s designers. Her list of clients and design expertise is unparalleled. Renowned for her contagious wit and brilliant sense of personal style, her designs appeal to both young and old and sit well in both contemporary and traditional interiors. Nina and her interior design team are there every step of the way from start of private residences, Nina has also done many hotels, restaurants and clubs worldwide.
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EDITORIAL
harry JarMan Editor Finn Bruce Production Manager
Matthew younG Creative Director
Mr Merret Drinks Editor
cole siMMons Fashion Editor
eMMa corBit Features Editor
Minna Mills Lifestyle & Culture
roBert Gwyther Features
daisy Jenks Social Editor
eliza Minto Women’s Editor
alan russell Property
JaMes hartFord Advertising Director
Jesslica littlewood Politics Editor
alexander nall-cain Cars Editor
rory skeoch Videographer
Janie elliot Food
PheoBe Parnell In-House Hair & Makeup
roBert JarMan Shooting
seB hesletine Photography Assistant
John Peveril Production Assistant
izzy Janssen Lifestyle & Food
For editorial enquiries please e-mail: editorial@thegentlemansjournal.co.uk For advertising enquiries please e-mail: advertising@thegentlemansjournal.co.uk Subscriptions are available by simply e-mailing: subscriptions@thegentlemansjournal.co.uk THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL LIMITED 4A OAKLEY STREET CHELSEA LONDON SW3 5NN All photos from Instagram - for more follow #thegentsjournal
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TO BE
A BRANSON
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“
I
felt strongly that, from an early age, children should be full of initiative, enterprise and self-reliance” revealed Eve in an exclusive interview with the Daily Mail ahead of the release of her autobiography, Mum’s The Word: The High-Flying Adventures of Eve Branson, this month. “Ever since I can remember, I’ve had an appetite for risk and adventure. So when I became a young mother I was determined to do everything possible to prevent my children from being namby-pamby.” Of course, she could only be the mother of one man. That man, estimated by Forbes Magazine to have a net worth of US$4.2bn, his life and his billions are, quite frankly, the stuff that dreams are made of. Buried deep down in his core are a set of values, aspirations and beliefs that make up the elixir of his success. The Gentleman’s Journal wanted a sip – a gulp in fact - so in the New Year we took the opportunity to do some unravelling and talk to Branson about his career; past, present and future. I’ll be upfront, we discovered nothing new. Nothing, that is to say, that hasn’t already been revealed in his copious autobiographies, interviews, blogs or tweets. In hindsight, this was expected. We did however uncover some conclusive insights into the man behind Virgin; what drives him day-to-day, what makes him buzz and, perhaps most importantly, the secret behind his always-on mega-watt smile. Long has the ‘nature or nurture debate’ been discussed around the dinner table, puzzled over by academics and tossed and turned over by billionaire hopefuls to pin down exactly what it is that is at the root of a successful entrepreneur. Branson himself has written two books, Losing My Virginity and Screw It Let’s Do It, in his
ties from his wardrobe on the basis that they eliminate all hope of fun, and fun is what Branson plants at the centre of every business venture. For the majority of the world’s population, for whom the prospect of a billion dollars is one faced with wishful thinking, taking even the initial leap in their career can be the challenge of a lifetime. For Branson however, his entrepreneurial spirit - the by-product of the traits that his parents were so determined to instil in him from birth – bubbled inside from a very young age. Is being ‘full of initiative, enterprise and self-reliance’ the answer to Branson’s success? Well, one thing’s for sure, they certainly played their part.
“FUN IS WHAT BRANSON PLANTS AT THE CENTRE OF EVERY BUSINESS VENTURE” he wrote a letter to his father convincing him to build an aviary in the garden so he could breed budgerigars for went unfortunately went out of control. attempts at circumnavigating the globe by balloon. The missions were both unsuccessful. From budgerigars to balloons, Branson’s list of failed attempts spans throughout the entirety of his career
and, although they don’t accumulate to anywhere near the number of his successful ventures, he dedicates as much space to them in his memories. For Branson, taking risks and planning for failure comes hand-in-hand with his notion of success, so much so that his favourite piece of advice is “The brave may not live forever, but the cautious do not live at all. The best lessons are usually learned from failure. You must not get too dispirited if you fail just try your hardest, get back up, and try again.” Put simply, “You need to be willing to stick your neck out.” Branson’s entrepreneurial spirit rests not just on the result of a great challenge but thriving on every facet, aspect and experience that challenge brings, whether it works out in the end or not. entrepreneurship as “turning what excites you in life into capital, so that you can do
Words aside, you only have to look at Branson to know that his zest is in his character. This is a man who abolishes
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more of it and move forward with it.” In fact, driving ‘capital’ is only a means to being able to do more of the things that excite him. With over 400 companies, two of his own private islands, a knighthood to his name, two happily married children, his own equally happy marriage, and the promise of a trip into space on the horizon, it is a challenge in itself to pin-point an industry, activity or achievement that hasn’t lost its virginity to Branson. At 62 and with
“I WANT TO CARRY ON, DEFINITELY. THERE IS STILL SO MUCH TO ACHIEVE AND I WANT TO KEEP ON LEARNING, I LOVE LEARNING. WHO KNOWS WHAT TOMORROW MIGHT BRING?” billions in his pocket, you’d think retirement would be the next step but when asked straight out, “Will you ever retire?” Branson responds with a merry, if not slightly bemused, smile on his face, “I
so much to achieve and I want to keep on learning, I love learning. Who knows what tomorrow might bring?” This mentality, his innate desire to live life to the full and keep learning, is not unique to Branson but a family trait. Speaking recently to the Daily Telegraph on retirement, mother Eve was quoted saying, “There are still so many things I want to be better at.” The bells don’t stop ringing there. His grandmother seemingly had the same joie de vivre, breaking a record for being the oldest person in her day to jump off a top diving board, and she was in her nineties. You’ll know of course that Branson has broken his fair share of records as well four to be exact – involving all manner of boys toys from boats to balloons and kites. Why stop there? In true Branson form, the thrill-seeker plans to top the list off with a space rocket in the next few years as he sees his venture into commercial space travel with his Virgin Galactic take-off. What strikes me most is that Branson’s measurement of success isn’t the amount his life by. It’s as though he has his own extended version of Richard Horne’s ‘101 Things To Do Before You Die’ books and aims to tick ten boxes off a day. His business philosophy involves going against the grain, challenging and breaking parameters and pushing limits to make life better, as he states, “Our main aim has always been to make a difference in whatever market we are breaking into. We have used that attitude to grow the Virgin business into the music industry, aviation, trains, telecoms and healthcare. Virgin has always stood for quality, value for money, inno-
vation, competitive challenge and fun.” This motto of living life to the full and his proposition for Virgin does not stop short at his career but is woven throughout every aspect of his life, from his family to his relationships with his employees and his own personal goals and ambitions outside of his Virgin empire.
“VIRGIN HAS ALWAYS STOOD FOR QUALITY, VALUE FOR MONEY, INNOVATION, COMPETITIVE CHALLENGE AND FUN” In 2013, Branson’s priorities have shifted from Virgin to focus on his philanthropic ventures, “My challenge at the moment is a challenge for us all, and that is raising awareness to help ensure we leave our planet in the best possible shape not just for our children but also our children’s children.” To this end, he set up Virgin in order pursue new challenges aimed at tackling climate change amongst other global issues. Over the last four years, he has also continued to promote worldwide social and political reconciliation through is involvement with the Elders, an independent group of eminent global
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leaders brought together by Nelson Mandela, who offer their collective building, address major causes of human suffering and promote the shared interests of humanity. In December, Branson watched on proudly as his son took him forward one step further with these aims with one of his own great challenges - promoting the war against drugs worldwide. Met positively, it looks like the Branson spirit will live on for many years to come. Having got a taste of the man behind the magnate, we had just one question left, “What is your next big challenge?” to which Branson responded, “In my lifetime, I’m determined to be a part of starting a population on Mars. I think it is absolutely realistic. It will happen.” Isn’t that the planet with a temperature of reason to doubt him. Watch this space. By eMMa corBett | www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk r Spring 2013
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the
YELLOW EARL Hugh, 5th Earl of Lonsdale
in a lifetime of studying the eccentricities and antics of the british aristocracy , i have seldom come across anyone as amusing , entertaining , eccentric , or as profligate as hugh lonsdale . the best known of the earls of lonsdale , and perhaps the most famous english lord in the world in his time , hugh cecil lowther was born on 25 th , january , 1857.
T
months buffalo-hunting, and had pawned his birthright to make his fortune from cattle.
fortune made his position secure for
When the scheme failed, the family trustees bought back his inheritance rights, and allowed him to live at Lowther.
he 2nd Earl of Lonsdale was still alive when Hugh was born and was very much a part of society. His ancient lineage, high rank, important
up until his death. During these last years he continued to enjoy his two favourite sports - hunting and entertaining actresses. When he died, in the arms of a wellknown opera singer, he was succeeded by his nephew, Hugh Lonsdale’s Father – but Hugh and his two younger brothers, Charles and Lancelot, knew the likelihood of them ever inheriting the spectacular family fortunes remained remote. In fact, so unexpected was Hugh’s chance of succession that his father could not be persuaded to educate him properly. Whilst his older brother St George was being carefully groomed for a gilded future, Hugh spent most of his time in the stable yard of the family home at Asfordby, or running wild in the surrounding countryside. As a penniless, wayward, younger son who had not expected to inherit, he had joined a travelling circus for a year after leaving Eton, and travelled to America, spending
Hugh’s resentment of his incredibly rich brother became an obsession, and he desperately tried to outdo his brother, which led to a series of scandals which caused many of the desirable doors in Society, to be closed to him, and he was almost reduced to bankruptcy. Fortunately, at the eleventh hour, St George died, and Hugh, spurned by Society, and hounded by his creditors, became overnight one of the richest men in England. He was only 25 when he unexpectedly, inherited the title in 1882. In addition to his many titles, he inherited a Kingdom in Cumberland and Westmorland, and Lowther Castle, which was one of the largest houses in the country. It was built between 1806 and 1811. Lowther Castle consisted of 365 There was an agricultural estate of thousand acres of common land, over
which he owned most of the sporting and mineral rights. There were the lakes of Windermere and Grasmere, and the ruggedly beautiful Hawes Water. In West Cumberland, he owned the entire which stretched far under the Irish Sea, and another family seat, Whitehaven Castle. In London two of the great Mansions in Carlton House Terrace were knocked into one, providing him with a huge Townhouse. There was another house at Newmarket, and two, fully crewed Steam Yachts lying at anchor in Cowes. There were rich lands in the heart of hunting hunting box and stables at Barleythorpe.
a prodigious tax-free income of almost £4,000 a week then, which would now be worth £400,000 a week, or £20,000,000 (twenty million) a year, implying a fortune equivalent to £40 billion today, far larger than any modern-day Russian oligarch. Having been frustrated for so long, Hugh Lonsdale set about enjoying his good fortune with great enthusiasm, trumpeting
“ ALMOST AN EMPEROR,
NOT QUITE A GENTLEMAN ”
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like a thirsty bull elephant who suddenly scents water, he cut a swathe through society, who never quite forgave him for it. His boyhood had made him shy and uneasy with his social equals, and he covered this shyness in Society with ostentatious age of the Edwardians, people found hard to accept. At the same time, his passionate devotion to sport, his instinct for ‘fair play’ and his showman’s love of the spectacular earned him the adulation of the crowds and a reputation as England’s greatest sportsman which spread far beyond this green and pleasant land. His yellow carriages, his colourful entourage and his feudal style of living of his time; what the modern media would describe as a ‘celebrity’, but he was much more than that. His huge cigars, immaculate clothes, and ever-fresh Gardenia were the delight of the Cartoonists of the day. His public appearances at sporting events were acclaimed with as much delight as if he had been Royalty. For many years, as he drove down the course at Ascot behind the King, his yellow carriages and liveried postillions made the Royal Carriages look drab and dowdy by comparison, the cheers for ‘Lordy’ as the working classes called him, were at least as loud and prolonged as those for the King.
and other European Royalty, his vast stables of horses, his private orchestra and the money he poured into equipping the
he spent the family fortune, bankrupting his coalmines, which were the source of his great wealth. This, the high taxes and the slump in farm incomes of the Great Depression of the 30s led to his inevitable retreat as the lights of his personal empire were snuffed out one by one. Whitehaven Castle was sold, then Barleythorpe, and Castle had to be closed in 1936, although the latter still remains in the family’s ownership, and there have been halfhearted attempts to restore it to its former glory, but it has proved too big a project. Under the 5th Earl, Lowther enjoyed both a colourful heyday and an expensive swansong. He extended the estate – to create the largest enclosed parkland in England, mainly to upstage the Royal Family at Windsor Great Park. He was known as the Yellow Earl for his penchant for the colour, and was Automobile Association (AA), which adopted his livery. The Yellow Earl had his regiment of yellow-liveried servants, of yellow dogs, and a hothouse to grow yellow gardenias for his buttonhole. The
Lowther coat-of-arms was reproduced every morning in the centre of the stable yard using coloured chalk powders on freshly laid sand. The Yellow Earl redecorated the house, and added to the gardens, as a setting for lavish entertainment and royal visits, which included the German Kaiser in 1895. He was a keen sportsman, earning many titles during his time, a talented horseman, and a ‘horse whisperer’ of his day, patron of hunting and racing, and founder of the Royal International Horse Show. He supported local sports such as houndtrailing and fell-running. He especially enjoyed foxhunting, serving as Master of The Quorn from 1893 to 1898, and was also a keen football fan. He was chairman of Arsenal Football Club for a brief period in 1936 (having previously been a club director), and later became the club’s Honorary President. Lord Lonsdale was the inspiration for the Lonsdale cigar size, and was part of a famous wager with John Pierpoint Morgan over whether a man could circumnavigate of many famous wagers, including the one which involved him going to New Champion of the World, John L.Sullivan, and winning, but that, as they say, is Hugh Lowther was never quite accepted by Victorian Society, and was once described by Lord Ancaster as ‘almost
Hugh’s Rolls Royces outside Lowther Castle
He was a founding member of the National Sporting Club and donated the original Lonsdale Belts for boxing. His name was also given to a clothing brand of boxing garments, worn by Muhammad Ali, and many great athletes. However, Langtree, and Violet Cameron led to him being advised by Queen Victoria to leave the country until the scandal died down. Heeding her advice, in 1888, he went to the arctic, on a grueling polar expedition in which over 100 guides died. Lonsdale set out to reach the North Pole, nearly dying before reaching Kodiak, Alaska in 1889, and in 1890 he returned to England, a hero and a celebrity, which he remained until his death aged 87. His lavish entertainment of the Kaiser www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk r Spring 2013
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One of his residences, Whitehaven Castle
Lowther Castle Today
an Emperor, but not quite a Gentleman’; something Hugh Lowther might have The longest lived of the Earls of Lonsdale, the 5th Earl died in 1944 with no heir and with little concern for those who would be burdened by the Castle, the estate and his debts, which were inherited by his (by then aged) youngest brother Lancelot who sold the majority of the family collections in 1947. The 6th Earl died in 1953. By contrast, the 7th Earl, who died in
2006 aged 82, was a conservationist, businessman and the saviour of his family estates in Westmoreland and Cumberland, and largely responsible for the preservation of the Lake District as we know it today. It is impossible to even begin to tell The Yellow Earl’s story in so few words, but he was undoubtedly one of the greatest ‘characters’ the Peerage has ever produced, and his infamous antics are unlikely ever to be repeated. A truly modern story of a family with such rich history. By Robert Jarman |
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Style Icon THE DUKE OF
WINDSOR It is fair to say that the Duke of Windsor was not a great King, with his reign only lasting 326 days and subsequently, being the shortest in the history of the British Monarchy. His abdication in 1936 was due to his proposal to marry twice divorced Wallis Simpson, an American socialite at the time. Such a marriage would have conflicted with the Monarch’s role as Head of the Church of England, not to mention the staunch opposition from the government of the day, lead by Stanley Baldwin. Whilst politics and his role as King were not his strongest attributes, one thing the Duke of Windsor was world renowned for was his style, not only by his choice in clothes, but how he matched them and how he wore them. For the time he was extremely modern in his approach to clothes, having them made for comfort, which he described as “dress soft”. One element of fashion that he was particularly keen on was pattern and this His passion for pattern was particularly interesting due to his height of just 5’5”, however he was clever in his cuts and his jacket waists were abnormally high to elongate his legs, which in turn meant he could carry off bold prints.
His fashion was remarkably similar to his life and just in the way he showed disregard for the establishment, he also showed disregard for the fashion rules of the day. He is most renowned fo insisting on having cuffs on his trousers, which apparently enraged his father George V. As well as his love of pattern, he also showed a fondness for texture in his dressing and paired them in ways that were revolutionary for the time, such as patterned shirts with bold, striped ties. Despite him living in France for most of his life, he was a strong supporter of the British clothing industry, choosing Scottish tweeds and Fair Isle sweaters over Europe’s more modern fabrics.
During his life he used the same tailor, Scholte of Savile Row, who tailored lifestyle. Every detail was key to the Duke, down to having his left pocket on his trousers cut wider to accommodate his an elastic waist as he disliked suspenders. He also preferred zips instead of buttons innovation at the time. In 1960 an inventory of his wardrobe was taken that recorded he owned an impressive 15 evening suits, 55 lounge suits and three formal suits, along with a vast collection of 100 pairs of shoes. He was clearly a fashion addict and is still admired by the fashion world of today, as widely as he was in his own generation. Despite his obvious love of clothing, he was only once quoted talking about his style, saying, “I was in fact produced as a leader of fashion, with the clothiers as my showmen and the world as my audience.”
Huntsman Two Piece Suit from £4608. huntsman.com. Church’s Consul Nevada Walnut Shoes. £365. church-footwear.com. Hermes Blue Silk twill tie, hand-rolled. £135. uk.hermes.com.
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SPRING SUMMER | THE KEY TRENDS This Spring/Summer season sees a strong emphasis on colour and celebrates some past classics, such as the classic Gucci Horsebit loafer and the iconic Bomber Jacket. One colour that is standing out is blue, with various shades from indigo to royal. Tailoring continues to play its part in a relaxed and casual way.
GUCCI BLUE SUEDE HORSEBIT LOAFER
Indigo Shirts
Gucci’s iconic horsebit motif evolved in the 1930s when its aristocratic clientele began requesting riding attire. This symbol of the brand’s heritage is used with stylish effect across these washed-blue suede loafers. Constructed in Italy to exacting standards, this leather-soled pair is an assuredly sophisticated choice. £340 gucci.com
This versatile colour looks great all year round and can be paired with shorts, dark jeans and trousers alike. It can be made to look both causal and smart, therefore making it and essential piece of everyman’s wardrobe. £80 gant.com
Bomber Jackets
Tailored Shorts
The Bomber is the only jacket you should own this season. Not only is it on trend, it’s a true classic. Style icons such as Steve McQueen, Paul Newman, Mick Jagger and Bob Dylan have all been fans. The Bomber jacket is a grown up take on the baseball jacket, whilst keeping a casual and tactile feel. This season it has had a bit of an overhaul, with the cut becoming slimmer and armhole being higher, resulting in a slightly smarter look. This piece (Brioni Suede) will look just as good with a pair of tailored chinos, as it would with worn jeans.
If you’re a man that likes to show a bit of leg, then make sure your shorts are tailored. Combat and baggy shorts are a thing of the past. In regards to length, we recommend just above the knee. £170 mrporter.com
£2,140 mrporter.com
Round Sunglasses Round sunglasses are back and by the looks of things, are here to stay. This trend started a couple of summers back, but now round frame sunglasses are joining the ranks of the Ray Ban Wayfarer and Persol’s in iconic status. One brand we are loving at the moment are Oliver Peoples. £400 oliverpeoples.com
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Sweat Jumpers Steve McQueen was a style icon who is largely known for his Biker waxed jacket. However another piece of clothing he made look effortlessly cool was the grey sweat jumper. This is perfect for both winter and summer, it can be worn with tailored shorts on a summer evening or beige chinos for a preppy look. £95 sunspel.com
Smart Swim Shorts
COLOURFUL TRAINERS
We said this last year and we will say it again, no to board shorts. Unless you are actually a pro surfer the chances are board shorts with their length will make you look short and fat. We recommend you go for a cut just above the knee and a simple pattern to ensure you look more Bond than Bean. One of our favourite brands at the moment is all British brand Harry Elliot, reasonably priced and the perfect cut. ‘Monaco’ take our fancy.
With Spring on the way, it’s time to add some colour to our otherwise very grey lives. These bright yellow trainers with contrasting leather soles scream 1970s £290 mrporter.com
£75 harryelliot.co.uk
Colourful Suits
Briefcase
This may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but coloured suits are in and the brighter the better. Great for Spring and Summer parties paired with a crisp white shirt for a fresh, eye-catching look.
It’s proven that those who take pride in their appearance are more likely to be promoted. Smarten up your work attire this Spring with a modern take on the classic briefcase to show that you are both organised and stylish.
£615 paulsmith.co.uk
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THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
Young
THESPIANS The young up-and-coming British actors of 2013, led by Rupert Evans talk projects, style, and experiences in this 1920s themed shoot.
Photographer: Finn Bruce Stylist: Jamie Jarvis Hair/Makeup: Phoebe Parnell Assistant/Videographer: Rory Skeoch
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RUPERT EVANS AGE 35 - THEATRE, FILM & TV Known For: AGORA, HELLBOY, THE PALACE Coming Up: THE MAN WHO WOULD BE BOND What made you initially want to go into acting?
When I was at school really, I just enjoyed being on stage. We did the ‘Wizard of Oz’ and Peter Pan early on and I suddenly just really enjoyed it. I guess I’m a bit of a show-off really!!
Do you have a favourite moment from your career so far?
Well I suppose when I was in ‘Hellboy’ I had some amazing moments with CGI and the scale of the movie. It was a really amazing moment for me to be acting in a franchise, so that was one of the highlights and I’ll always remember that.
Tell us about your next project ‘The Man Who Would Be Bond’?
The current project I’m shooting in Budapest focuses on the life of Ian Fleming, his early life before he started the novels, and it follows him as he journeys through the early years when he was in the navy. I play Peter Fleming his elder brother; he, our mother and I have this very combative relationship. It follows us and his life in London and really shows how he got to write the Bond books. There’s a lot of action, Bond-like action, and lots of very pretty girls!
You have shot a lot of British historical period dramas, what is it that attracts you to these?
I think what I love firstly about the British period drama is that I love dressing up in all that garb! Secondly, I think they are great stories and often taken from great books, whether it’s D. H. Lawrence or Jane Austen or Dostoievski, they are always great, great stories with great journeys. The characters always have these amazing journeys through the book and through the script and for me that’s what it is. I love being a part of those epic ideas and epic stories.
Favourite place to buy clothes, and a favourite brand?
I don’t buy that many clothes but when I do I usually go for Christian Dior. They produce clothes that have a real unique feel to them. On the high street it really depends where I am, I love brands that aren’t necessarily readily available here in Britain. Scotch and Sober is a brand based in Amsterdam and not available here in the UK at the moment, but it’s great for everyday stuff.
Do you have a style secret?
Whatever you wear, wear it with confidence. Then you’ll probably get away with it! Also colourful socks are highly recommended!
Do you have a favourite Tailor?
I’ve used a few tailors in my time however I like Rake as a British tailor and then Dior I’ve used a lot and I think they are wonderful so they are probably the two I gravitate towards.
Who is the best dressed man from history, film, literature or modern culture?
I’ve always looked particularly towards the 1920’s style. Evelyn Waugh who is one of my favourite authors and if you see pictures of him he was always dressed impeccably, so for me Evelyn Waugh is someone I look at as a real style icon.
Suit: Sand Linen - Gieves & Hawkes, Wasitcoat Shirt: Shoes: Pocket Square: Gieves & Hawkes
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Toby Regbo AGE 21 - THEATRE & FILM Known For: ONE DAY, THE TOWN, TREASURE ISLAND Coming Up: REIGN, UWANTME2KILLHIM (TO BE RELEASED SUMMER 2013) Has growing up in London influenced your acting in any way?
Yes, it’s been a major influence on me because of the amazing theatre we have… my grandmother used to be a ballet dancer and has always taken me since I was about 5 years old to the theatre… My favourite actor isn’t a screen actor; predominantly he is a stage actor, Mark Rylance who I have seen a lot of times through his carrier since I was very young and he has been a major influence on me as he is the best actor… literally the best actor we have had in this country… I never got to see Laurence Olivier because I am too young but I think he is the Laurence Olivier of our generation.
Tell us about your next project ‘uwantme2killhim’?
The title was from a Vanity Fair article, a true story about 2 kids originated in Manchester, but our version of the story takes place outside of London in the suburbs… it has an amazing twist that makes it very difficult to tell the story without giving away the end. The basic premise tells the story of two kids who when allowed to have free roam on the Internet can do terrible things… but its an unbelievable true story you just couldn’t write it, it’s insane… If you read the Vanity Fair article…[he stops suddenly] actually don’t read the Vanity Fair article you’ll ruin the film… just wait to watch the movie!
You have acted in a few big budget large-scale productions; does it give you a buzz?
Yes, being on big movie sets like Harry Potter makes you so aware of the amount of unbelievable skills being brought in and honed in to make something so incredible… It’s seeing the unbelievable effort that’s put into all of those things that’s amazing… it’s like proper movie magic!
Do you have a style secret?
I’ve only just started really worrying about what I wear more… our band manager is also a stylist and she has made me more aware that I can’t just wonder around looking scruffy but more and more I’m being drawn towards wearing suits… I like looking like a man!
What’s your favourite brand?
I like to get dressed in Burberry they have an amazing quintessentially British style that I really, really like.
What’s the best style accessory?
I recently got given a coat which is the greatest thing I’ve ever seen in my whole life… it’s a Ralph Lauren coat that’s the most beautiful coat ever, and I used to hate winter, I didn’t like being cold at all but now I don’t want summer to ever come around because I like wearing it all the time! That’s my style accessory!
Shirt:
Trousers:
Waistcoat (and Blazer in video): Shoes:
Tie:
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Matt Stokoe TV & FILM Known For: MISFITS Coming Up: THE VILLAGE What is it about acting that really gets you excited?
The diversity of it and the fact that what you do changes literally every day. Even if you have a scene that’s scripted and you’ve learnt your lines and you know the actors your working with, come the moment of it all coming together you have no idea how it’s going to work. Things are so malleable and change very quickly in this industry that it’s really exciting to not know what’s around the corner… you do wake up and think ‘god anything could happen today… anything’ and I think that’s a major draw.
With all the recent buzz around British actors and British films, is it an exciting time to be a Brit in this industry? It’s a really exciting time to be a British actor at the moment, I think they have received more attention than they ever have from throughout history. For a long time British TV and British film was just trying to replicate American values and culture; and I think in the last few years we have become more confident and have built a strong cultural identity.
Your next project ‘The Village’, what can we expect?
‘The Village’ is both a companion piece and an antidote to the ‘Downton Abbey’ phenomenon I like to think. It chooses to shy away from the most well documented events of the time, (the 1st world war) and focuses on the people whose stories were never told and who got left behind. If you go back far enough, the majority of peoples families will have been massively affected by the 1st world war and the kind of atrocities that went on. The majority of people in Britain when they tell you about their families experiences it wont be ‘Well we were in a very large stately home and a couple of people went off to be officers ’ (like in Downton) instead a lot of it will be ‘my uncle or my dad or my granddad had to go off to war when they were 15, 16, 17’ and that’s the real tragedy and the real thing that should be publicised… so ‘The Village’ serves to highlight that sort of grey area.
Favourite place to buy clothes, favourite brand?
I remember seeing when it was really heavily publicised some of the Alexander McQueen line and more recently Tom Ford and really liking it, so you know, the classic British designers really.
Do you have a style secret?
I think as long as you feel comfortable, whatever you wear is going to make you feel good. It’s no good buying lovely expensive clothes if you feel uncomfortable in them. I think its 50% the clothes and 50% the man that makes them… so I think its all about how the clothes make you feel.
Do you have a style Icon?
Steve McQueen… and if you can’t understand why, then there’s something wrong with you! I think he is probably the coolest person ever to have lived… ever… There’s Frank Sinatra at one end and James Dean at the other but I think he is somewhere in the middle and he occupies a space where its traditional masculinity; cause he can look really sophisticated and refined but then also he’s got the whole biker, military, combat thing going on… Cool, laid back and simple but with a little bit of a hint of aggression, a little bit of rebel.
What’s the best style accessory?
If you get your shoes right then take it from there. I think if you get a cool pair of trainers or a cool pair of shoes, then that’s the first thing guys and girls will notice on you straight away… so just work from your ankles, get your shoes right then everything else will follow.
Shirt:
Braces: Shoes:
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Trousers: Tie:
THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
Joshua McGuire AGE: 24 - THEATRE, TV & FILM Known For: POSH, THE HOUR Coming Up: ABOUT TIME Do you have a favourite moment from your acting career so far?
So many in such a short space of time, I feel so lucky! But “hearing you’ve got your first job”… 3 years ago, I’ll never forget where I was, how I felt… that’s probably my favourite moment. Where it all began.
With POSH did you know you were getting involved with what was going to become such a hugely popular and controversial production?
I think everyone else did, and I didn’t…! I knew it was good because its an amazing piece of theatre and plays like that don’t come along very often… 10 boys sitting on stage for 2 and a half hours, that’s quite rare… But the controversy around it, if you call it that, or the excitement surrounding it was the timing. We did the show on election night when the coalition began so I think that’s why it was so effective.
How does it feel to have been involved in such a large-scale British production like About Time?
About time is an amazing new project from Richard Curtis who I grew up watching and I can quote every line from ‘Four Weddings & A Funeral’… I mean I actually can! My sister and I grew up loving it and so to be part of one of Richard’s movies is I mean crazy. Its perfect… its funny, its sad, its Sci-Fi. So it’s Richard putting a unique twist on something he’s never dealt with before. You pinch yourself on set… It’s crazy!
You starred as Hamlet in Hamlet at The Globe… WOW! Was that an incredible experience?
Just on a basic level of the strength and stamina you need to do it day in day out, 3 hrs sometimes 4, and to speak Shakespeare’s great words and do the character that’s so well known was scary and daunting but a real privilege. ‘The Globe’ to play is not like any other theatre in the world. Its like what I can imagine doing a rock concert is like, you know there’s a real camaraderie I think between the audience, there’s 500 people standing for a long time and they have got this buzz and then the actors on stage are so close so they’ve got this buzz and your surrounded on all sides by people way up there and there so just to play that space is amazing.
It must have been incredible performing along side Stephen Fry what was it like working with him?
I spent every time I was with him looking up because he’s so tall and he is just as witty and funny as you would expect… its nonstop. I mean he is the cleverest man in the universe and that’s a proven fact and so that was an amazing experience just to be in his company.
Do you have a favourite Tailor?
Tom Ford is amazing, he now does Bond, so hey who am I to argue with the stylist for Bond?! And Daniel Craig wears them very well so got to be him!
Do you have a style Icon?
Bill Nighy, style icon is Bill Nighy. He wears a suit every day, he doesn’t have to but he does. Cool, full stop!
Shirt: Shoes:
Bow Tie:
Hat:
Trousers: Watch:
Belt: Glasses:
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THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
Jonathan Bailey AGE: 24 - TV & THEATRE Known For: LEONARDO, ME AND MRS JONES Coming Up: BROADCHURCH, OTHELLO (OPENING 24TH APRIL) What made you initially want to go into acting?
It all started with my sister – when we were young, she was doing ballet classes and I gradually got involved. Then, a woman from the RSC came in to find kids for ‘A Christmas Carol’...I sang for her and did a dance and ended up getting a part in the show. I was about 7 years old...I think that was a bit of a shock for the Bailey family! I think I was about 15 when I realised that acting was really something I wanted to try and could be a career.
Do you have a favourite moment from your acting career so far?
Probably doing a full scale sword fight last year for the second series of Leonardo… I was playing Leonardo Da Vinci and they let me do as many stunts as I could facilitate and there was lots of diving through market stalls and even did a cartwheel! It was all a bit of a boys dream!
You can currently be seen in ‘Broadchurch’ on ITV, tell us a little about the project It’s brilliant; it’s a sort of ‘who done it’, but so much more and is based on the death of an 11 year old boy and the series shows how it rips the community apart. It’s got quite an epic feel; it’s basically a horrific incident in a beautiful place. Its going to be absolutely amazing!
You do some serious stage acting as well as TV comedy, which do you prefer?
I go through stages, however recently it has just been luck that I’ve been able to do quite a bit of TV, but I have managed to stick to doing one piece of theatre a year. And actually theatre is the one that I do get a bit ‘cold turkey’ if I don’t do it. I do sometimes say lets stop any meetings for film and TV as I just have to get back onto stage. Lucky enough I’m going to be doing Othello at ‘The National’ which is a dream come true so I think stage is the one I wouldn’t be able to live with out.
How do you approach a Shakespeare?
I found it quite tricky at school and I had other things I prioritised at the time! but I remember doing ‘King John’ when I was 14/15 for the RSC and being drilled academically and technically for the first time, and that was the first time on stage when I went ‘I now understand, I can affect people doing this’, and also the power of Shakespeare, once you’ve worked it out and really got your mouth around the language, you realise how it can be forceful. but I’ve worked out my own sort of approach to Shakespeare… you read it as much as you can then basically translate it to your own personal imagery and as long as you have got a clear picture of what you are trying to say and know what you are saying then the audience will understand also. I think it is about confidence and clarity in what you’re saying, whether it be right or wrong and that’s where all these incredible debates can come up. I know in my meeting for Othello the way I read Cassio was completely different to how Nicholas Hytner read it and so thus sparked a quite interesting conversation… so I am excited to see which way it goes…. But at the same time it’s terrifying doing Shakespeare, especially at ‘The Olivier’ at the national, its quite a daunting task… but I’m going to bloody give it a go!
Do you have a style secret?
Socks… its all about socks, start from the bottom and work your way up… if you’ve got good socks on your going to be fine! Additionally a good belt or bright braces are essential.
Shirt:
Blazer (top picture): Gieves & Hawkes, Pocket Square: Gieves & Hawkes, Braces: Trousers: Shoes: Tie:
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Full interviews with all 5 actors and a closer look at the 1920’s styling available in a video online. SubScribe for free to the GJtV Youtube channel for more intereStinG VideoS.
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THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
The GreaT GaTsby
HOW THE COSTUMES WERE MADE
The Great Gatsby’s Costume Cutter and Tailor GLORIA BAVA talks ‘Dressing the stars’ and ‘1920’s vintage techniques’ In this article we talk to Gloria Bava, who started as a Costume Cutter specialising in men’s tailoring in South Australia in the 80’s and is now one of the top in the lia and now The Great Gatsby. We have a word with her to discover more about the whole process on The Great Gatsby. The Gentleman’s Journal: What are the stages/processes a costume goes the person in front of the camera? Gloria Bava: The process begins with the reading of the script, from which I can ascertain: the exact era and time frames in which the events take place. It isn’t enough to just say 20s or 30s, I need to enter the pect of a characters costume, as attention From the script/story I gain an understanding of the characters and how to
build a costume that will uniquely complement the design brief and the actors physicality within a visionary framework set by the director and the costume designer. I then look at all the action the characters are involved in; eg , whether they are driving, sitting, horse-riding, motorcycle make up to 4 versions of a costume; each lar scene. There are also the ‘wet versions’ of entire ensembles to allow for scenes where the characters get caught in the rain or go swimming. The next step: I have my
sample of the garment in calico or less expensive fabric version of the intended one. After I have completed a whole range of sample garments (jackets,pants, waistcoats, shirt collar shapes etc.) a very long and inI begin to make the originals or what I call the ‘Hero’ versions from pieces that have selected. I then liase with the textile buyer as to quantities of fabrics and materials to buy. Next I go over all my patterns and re-draft them all allowing for all the adjustI am then ready to cut into the fabric. I
(C.Martin). We call this a ‘design brief ’, and in the case of Gatsby, I travelled to NYC to receive my brief. Once back in the workroom at Fox studios Sydney I receive some drawings, references and fabrics so that I can commence. I begin this process by taking the actors measurements. Then I start drafting my patterns (this will be
(half completed so that alterations can still actor. Then I go back and make all necessary alterations and adjustments to my patterns and the garments. There can be
The GJ: source any of it from real vintage shops? GB: Yes all the costumes I worked on were made to measure and tailored. NYC produced 500 day and evening ensembles and a I tailored many other looks in the workroom in Sydney. The GJ: Pictures © Warner Bros./Brooks Brothers
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GB: In my experience making costumes for Leading Male Actors on high budget costume ideas to the table. They usually have a vision of what the character they are playing should look like and they collaborative process. If something is the wrong colour or style and therefore
GB: On Gatsby I had 3 characters that I had fun cutting and tailoring for: Gatsby, (Leonardo DiCaprio) Nick (Tobey Maguire) and Tom Buchanan (Joel Edgerton). All 3 were interesting and varied a lot. In particular I enjoyed making 1920s swimwear, underwear, sleepwear, loungewear, Livery, uniforms and shirt collars as well as the classic suiting and polo-wear. The GJ: What is your ‘top tip’ for styl-
it ‘wont go on’ and then it’s back to the drawing board and another choice is made. The GJ: most challenging part? GB: The most rewarding part of my job when you dress the actor and everyone in the room goes ‘wow’, or seeing the costumes on screen on opening night actually watching these amazing actors in character playing there parts. I have had many a pinch myself moment. Lastly, I love being part of a highly creative and inspiring costume department, working with lots of talented hard-working people. The most challenging part would have to be the long hours and the constant deadlines. The pressure can build to quite a high intensity especially when you have been working over 60 hrs a week for a few months. I am expected to work nights and weekends at short or no notice so that I can make a new costume by Monday or if the schedule changes then my deadlines will be pushed forward along with my the most though is being able to satisfy the actor, the designer and director with my style of cutting menswear. The GJ: Is there a particular charac-
this? GB: popular during the roaring twenties and create looks that blend the textured pat-
The GJ: Who is your personal favourite GB: can tailor as well, I would have to say that Angus Strathie (academy award winning co-costume designer of Moulin Rouge) is my favourite. I worked with him on Moulin Rouge, Queen of the Damned and Baz Lurhmann’s Broadway version of ‘La Boheme’. He really can design and tailor exquisite menswear for stage and screen. My favourite Costume Designer (non-tailor) is Kym Barrett who I worked produce an outstanding and unique mens wardrobe. Also really enjoyed working with Catherine Martin, (Gatsby costume and production designer), she is a great creative genius. My favorite Tailor would
the era, keeping in mind the story-telling advertisements, and if you can, actual products from vintage stores. Also, research textiles for colours and patterns. Top tip for making, employ original cutting and tailoring techniques of the era. Research and then apply the pattern-making, cutting and tailoring principles exclusive to the era you are realising. Aim to techniques derived and inspired by 1920s clothing manufacturers. Fit and Function is paramount when creating costumes. Pay attention to the silhouette, in particular, the shoulder width and the placement of the waistline (it was quite high in the 20’s). If you can, source original vintage garments to use as a reference, try to see original 1920s garments on display so you can see how they are made. It’s important in Period Menswear that the garments look ‘as if they were made in that time’, and not just a modern, contemporary version of the 20s. I use original pattern-making drafts from old drafting books. Using
worked closely with Brook Bros in NYC to create many very stylish 3-piece suits for Gatsby. His work is impeccable and beautifully tailored. My favorite fashion designers have been John Paul Gaultier, Alexander McQueen and Dolce & Gabbana. I have been very inspired by their menswear collections over the years. Actually they have been my greatest source of inspiration, probably because of the theatricality of their designs.
silhouette and proportions of the 20s. tailoring for? www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk r Spring 2013
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THE GREAT GATSBY
ACCESSORIES The 1920s were all about extravagance, excess and decadence. Wealth was shown not just by the parties you threw, but on how you lived your life, the house you lived in, the car you drove and the clothes you wore. With clothing in particular, it was not just about the clothes you brought, but how you wore them. Accessories were key to this style, donning a carefully chosen signature accessory helped establised your identity.
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GROOMING
THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
RebiRth OF the baRbeR ShOp
TOP 5 BARBER SHOPS IN LONDON
W
hen you say the word ‘barbershop’ to anyone over the age
words ‘barber shop’ in London, now
meant being sat in a mixed queue of men
Geo F truMPer - w1J 5hq This Barbershop holds legendary status in setting the standard for traditional Barbershops in London. Since the mid19th century gentlemen have travelled to this impeccable shop to keep up appearances. It certainly harks back to the good old’ empire era, even today’s shop Murdoch - wc2h 9hB Beautifully bespoke, built just for the new gent-about-town. The brand boasts 4 city locations that really optimise true London Covent Garden. The interior of their largest space, heralds back to post-war Britain when the best luxury products
were made by English artisans, something Murdock has recreated with their own signature collections. Not only will you feel the warmth of authentic British customer service here but you’re promised exquisite workmanship and quality if you should invest in either a set of shaving tools, a rugged fragrance or a Wet shave £45 GentleMan’s tonic - w1J 6nn A restorative Barbershop in the heart of Mayfair, this promises the classic grooming service away from the stress of the outside world. Decked out with the latest hightech gadgets to keep you entertained or let you switch off while you give tonic to the tash. This barber is particularly well known for their shaving class, offering
Bourdon house - w1k 3dJ A destination of considered services for Gentlemen. There’s no denying that many men have grown up to share a love of respect for the trend driven luxury quality that Dunhill provides. This Barbershop echoes all the above, with an attention most relaxing experiences in grooming.
class carpentry. Combined with soft yet spicy fragrances sitting in front of aged mirrors and shaving tools dating back to late 1800’s and you have a proper British institution. Trumper’s extensive products are among the most modern of all with a collection of balms, creams, moisturizers and skin foods. No wonder Trumper has the most loyal customers of all.
Surround yourself with Dunhill leather as you lie back and immerse yourself in your own private entertainment suite. We need not blow the trumpet of this Barber, its all-embracing customer does this for us, ranging from guys in their early 20’s to the usual slightly more vintage Mayfair resident, a perfect synergy of edgy and corporate. Wet shave £40.
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you tips with your choice of razor. For a truly bespoke luxury package, follow in the footsteps of Shackleton, Montgomery or even Hemingway for a Bloody Mary, aromatherapy facial and massage. Wet shave £35.
THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
trueFitt and hill - sw1a 1Ph This Barber has quite rightly earned the Hill are proud to serve the discerning modern gentleman, like it’s interior, both sophisticated and practical. You’re spoilt for choice in products, as they offer the full line, each with a blend of
motto of ‘men deserve the best in everything they do’ then head here for an exceptional grooming service. If you’re a World traveller then Chicago, Las Vegas and Toronto all play host to this original London Barber. Lucky to have a little extra time on your hands, they’re Wet Shave £39.
MOISTURISING
LIKE A MAN GROOMING
W
hether you like it or not we men are becoming a more metrosexual race. Gone are the days when the morning routine used to consist of a bar of soap, toothbrush and a comb. Now the rage is specially formulated face wash, vibrating shavers and toothpaste that promises to whiten your teeth for longer than the last product the same brand brought out a few months earlier. One daily essential is a moisturiser, and whilst this used to mean a tube of Nivea, today
THE TOOLS
leather and needs to be kept nourished and protected against the elements, such as sun, wind and, of course, city life which have the effect of speeding up the ageing process. Choosing the right product for your skin type is key, which is why we picked out the top products on the market.
aesop perFect Facial hydrating cream £31 (60ml) aesop.com dior homme dermo system Kiehls Facial Fuel £21 kiehls.co.uk
anthony Facial moisturiser £32 anthony.com
naturally active men’s sKincare £18.25 uk.lizearle.com
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THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
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BREITLING FOR BENTLEY
GT II
B
reitling and Bentley may not seem like the most obvious partnership, but on closer inspection you will
They share the same philosophy that is built on the combination of prestige, performance and excellence. In essence it is the perfect partnership, offering British chic mixed with Swiss tradition. One watch in the 16 strong range is the Bentley GTII. This chronograph design Tourer models. The dials have been inspired by the colours of the Bentley livery and comes in black with graded
shades of red. There is also an all-white model with a new rubber strap. Both have an original 3/4 view engraving of the new Continental GT embossed on the back. The movement is Breitling’s own calibre 1/4th second chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers and a day-date calendar. This watch has all the hallmarks of a good investment. Most importantly, it is beautifully made by two brands with serious heritage. breitlingforbentley.com
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T
THE
BREMONT
VICTORY
he Bremont Watch Company has been working with The National Museum of the Royal Navy to create a limited edition watch that is designed to commemorate Nelson and The HMS Victory warship. Each watch is made with original parts of HMS Victory built into it, including parts of the timber and copper from the structure, which makes this project like no other in the history of horology. Notable features include automatic chronograph movement with a 46 hour power reserve and Incabloc shock protection. The case is 43mm 18 carat rose gold with an off white dial which work excellently together. The case back is inlaid with original oak from the HMS Victory and sapphire crystal. The watch is completed with a black crocodile leather strap. bremont.com
PANERAI P
LUMINOR
anerai combines Italian design with Swiss technology for a horological match made in heaven. The company was born out of Renaissance Florence in 1860 and soon became renowned for its precision time-keeping and intergrated design that oozed creativity.
Today Panerai continues this tradition and is one of the leading international watch brands, globally recognised as one of the the sea, with each watch echoing this sporting direction. They are unique designs in their own right. The watch seen here is the Panerai Luminor Marina Automatic. Driven by Panerai’s own OP III automatic
mechanical movement, the watch is set within a 44mm stainless-steel case, glare-proof sapphire crystal glass with a screw-down steel caseback. The face features a black dial with luminous Arabic numerals and hands strap and a deployment buckle. It also comes with a second interchangeable strap. The watch is water resistant to a more than adequate 300 metres and comes with a 2 year manufacturer’s warranty. panerai.com
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THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
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weLIKE
CHASE MAMALADE,
PENHALIGONS,
, BMW CONCEPT CAR, LEICA M9,
saint laurent suede chelsea Boots Comfort and luxury come hand-in-hand with these versatile suede Chelsea Boots. The elegant design and quality workmanship encapsulates high-class fashion. £560 mrporter.com
MulBerry heathcliFFe BrieFcase A gorgeous briefcase that combines beauty with practicality. Multiple pockets including a laptop sleeve make a busy city life easier and more stylish at the same time. The durable leather will mature with age, ensuring longevity in both fashion and usabilty. £995 mulberry.com
chase MarMalade vodka Chase have taken their vodka and marinated it with copper pot still. Then distilled a fourth time with the vapours passing through fresh orange peel, to create this complicated and totally natural orange experience. orange zest on the nose with a naturally rich bitter£35
leica M9 The LEICA M9 is a camera that carries the legend of Leica M cameras into the digital age and is the smallest full-format digital system camera the world has ever seen. In a nutshell it is a contemporary tool for all who demand the highest standards in image quality and love freedom of composition. M9 offers two designs - elegant steel gray or black paint. £5,000 uk.leica-camera.com
lanvin trainers These trainers are the most luxurious trainers out there today. By using patent leather and suede together they have made a trainer that can be worn with formal attire to create a perfect smart/casual look. They have discreetly reinforced uppers and a sturdy rubber sole, making them both stylish and robust too. We think they are a must have in the city and if you are not brave enough to wear them with a suit, then we would recommend them with black or burgundy chinos. £295 lanvin.com
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BarBour Peel Jacket Barbour men’s Peel Waterproof Jacket has an engineered tailoring with ergonomic cut sleeves. The fabric is coated in a cotton waterproof, breathable fabric and the seams are taped in self fabric to produce a smart, quality product without £209. barbour.com
loro Piana silk & cashMere Blend sweater This understated silk cashmere sweater from Loro Piana adds new character to the world of class. The subtleties in design quality design is apparent in both look and feel. £775 loropiana.com
BMw 328 hoMMaGe concePt car To celebrate the 75th anniversary of the original BMW 328 classic from the late 1930s auto brand. The car employs a straight six-cylinder powerplant and the familiar kidney-shaped BMW grille.
Meatliquor The restaurant screams something new. Drinks served in jam jars, your entire table’s food comes served on a single tray and kitchen roll sat between the ketchup and mayonnaise to aide the cleanup of your impending mess. Its edginess brightens up its otherwise simple qualities. £30
PenhaliGons BlenheiM Bouquet shavinG creaM Jar Lemon, Lime and Lavender traditional shaving soaps and creams have excellent stubble softening and conditioning properties to ensure a close shave and beautifully scented skin. £38 penhaligons.com
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Political Interview
Nicholas Soames THE MAN - THE POLITICS - THE STYLE PHOTOGRAPH BY GEORGE GARNIER
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N
icholas Soames, grandson of Winston Churchill, is a British Conservative Party MP for the constituency of Mid Sussex and is a man who could be described as ‘somewhat of
locations such as Afghanistan and Iraq. He became a Privy Councillor in 2011.
His outstanding sense of individuality and, lets say, ‘loose sense’ of political correctness. However if you take it on the chin, as intended, then Nicholas is the type of person one would truly wish to be seated next to at a dinner party - his anecdotes never fail to amuse.
his subsequent vote against the hunting bill. Most recently he has voted in favour of the gay marriage bill, which one could ponder, is a progressive stance when considering only 127 conservative MPs were in favour and 136 were against. A quintessential English gentleman.
Soames’s style is an extremely large part of his life and he is without fail impeccably dressed. He has said ‘I think it’s very important that you are properly turned out. One of the things I simply hate about the modern Tory is the tendency for open necked shirts. I give my friend Michael Portillo a very hard time about not wearing ties”. Soames takes style very seriously as was made evident a few years ago when he said to Tim Sainsbury (who had commented on a rather loud, garish tweed he was wearing): “I don’t think it the place of my Educated at Eton, Soames later served in the 11 Hussars in West Germany and Britain. He was then invited to serve as HRH Prince Charles’s equerry where he Politics ran in his blood and so it came with little surprise when he was elected to Parliament in the 1983 General Election. He served as Parliamentary Secretary at the Ministry of Agriculture and was Minister of State for the Armed Forces under John Major.
“
Politicians are much more restrained today about what they say in general because of the astonishing behaviour of the Press; which jumps on the unusual, the eccentric and the original.
“
in his role as chairman of Aegis, a leading private security and risk management employees world wide, operating out of
Soames is an ardent country gentleman who has a passion for hunting, shooting
military so special? later in my public life, Minister of State for the Armed Forces, so I have always loved and admired the British Armed Services. and women in the land and they greatly add to Britain’s prestige and success abroad.
you enter politics? Nicholas Soames: I entered politics because I had grown up with it and felt that it was a profession in which I had an overwhelming interest. NS: Margaret Thatcher was Prime of Parliament in 1983 and I retain great admiration and respect for her. I am very fond of Sir John Major who NS: Politicians are much more restrained today about what they say in general because of the astonishing behaviour of the Press; which jumps on the unusual, the eccentric and the original. Political correctness does not hinder the process but it makes life much more complicated and means people are less inclined to behave in a straight forward manner.
I have known David Cameron for many years and am an huge admirer of his courage and straightforwardness and I think he will prove in time to be an outstanding Prime Minister. GJ: Of all your careers, (PA, Stockbroker, Insurance Broker,
GJ: What is your favourite Secretary of State for Defence... NS: My favourite restaurant in London is Wiltons on Jermyn St. I have been eating at Wiltons for over 50 years. I also love The Delaunay and The Dining Room in The Goring Hotel. GJ: You spent much of your memories of the great man? NS: My memories of my grandfather are those essentially of grandfather and grandchild. He was generous, affectionate and loved the company of his grandchildren, in all their different ages. ‘Grandpapa, is it true that you are the greatest man in the world?’ At which Nicholas has said previously that ‘If my grandfather were alive today, he would know instinctively on Iraq that Britain’s right position is at America’s side.’]
NS: I have been very fortunate in my life and worked in some fascinating jobs in interesting parts of our national life. I have worked for some really remarkable people to whom I have always been grateful for a very lucky chance to get on. I know how lucky I have been. GJ: Your immaculate style is a big pinstripe or plain? NS: I wear double breasted suits, either dark blue, dark grey or tweed NS: My tailor is Couch and Hoskin in the City – wonderful people and every visit is a pleasure. By Jessica littlewood
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BUSINESS INVESTMENT
HOW T0 GET IT AND WHAT THEY WANT
WE ALL HAVE BIG IDEAS, BUT AN IDEA IS ONE THING AND TURNING THAT INTO A BUSINESS IS ANOTHER. MOST OF THE TIME, BECOMING AN ENTREPRENEUR WILL MEAN SACRIFICING THE SECURITY OF A YEARLY SALARY AND BE UNDER NO ILLUSION; THIS IS ONE OF THE SCARIEST THINGS ANY PERSON CAN DO IN THEIR LIFETIME. HOWEVER, IF THAT ENTREPRENEUR GETS THAT BUSINESS RIGHT, THE REWARDS CAN BE MORE THAN WORTH IT.
O
ne of the biggest hurdles that any business faces is gaining investment, whether this is seed investment, expansion investment, just an investment for a big advertising push. Whatever the reason, gaining investment is vital for any business and securing it can be the difference between success and failure. Statistically only 5% of entrepreneurs get funded. Does this mean that only 5% of all ideas are good enough to succeed? In short the answer is no. Often entrepreneurs get so ensconced in their business that they forget to look at the bigger picture. A common mistake is that entrepreneurs don’t understand the difference between having a need for capital and being ready to ask for it. Most of the time the entrepreneur will only start looking for investment when they need it which gives off worrying signs to the investor such as, ‘I need you to bail me out of my bad management of the limited capital I had’, or ‘I’m unwilling to
invest any more of my money, so, I need raise money from anyone else, so I need you to save me’. All of which will make an investor run a mile. On the other hand, an organised and, often more successful entrepreneur will understand the need to look to the future and what it will take to run a business. Inturn, this will give the investor good messages, such as, ‘I’m ready for a partner to help me take this to the next level’, or ‘I have a handle of my product, my market and my customers, and I’m ready to accept an investment that’ll help me grow’, and sources of capital available to me and I’m ready to work with you because you are the best match’. Choosing the right investor is a big decision for an entrepreneur to make. They need to decide whether they want an investment of just cash or a strategic investor who can help in the running of the business and make such things as key
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introductions. If you are looking for the latter, it’s important to clarify with the investor what you expect of them. There are many different types of investors, from angel investors, who predominately invest in start-up and small businesses, and then there are the larger VC’s (Venture Capitalist) and Private Equity companies who invest in small businesses that potential for scalability, in other words growth. When asked what do you look for when making an investment in a start-up business, Peter Dubens founder of Oakley Capital said, “Management, scalability, protective position, it never changes for me”. Michael Jackson of Elderstreet Investment went on to say “For me it has to be in a growing and sexy market”. On speaking with a number of investors there was one common thread in all their opinions. When asked, “where do entrepreneurs falter when seeking investment”, Henry Talbot-Ponsonby of Venture Capital Partners said “If they haven’t made enough progress
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before they start speaking with investors. Entrepreneurs need to know how to prove their concept and do everything in their power, and with their limited resources, to prove that concept before asking someone else to take a risk on it working”. Dubens added that another fault was entrepreneurs ‘were often over optimistic, nothing ever delivers as per the plan and more people should present 3 business cases’. It’s clear from both these opinions that an entrepreneur who has proven his business to be a success is in a far better position, both in regards to gaining investment and negotiating on equity. On the other hand, there are companies that gain investment from paper, these however are normally ideas that invent a new market or require a sizeable investment from the outset to make them successful but, like all ideas, the business plans must be strong and presented well with a strong management team possessing the experience to make it happen. Management is key to all businesses and is critical to gaining investment; so much so that all the investors we asked named it in their top three criteria for investing, and Henry Talbot-Ponsonby went so far as saying, “management team, management team, management team”. The reason for this is that a good management team gives their risk becoming a calculated one based on the evaluation that a team is in place that has the ability to reach the business’ goals. For young entrepreneurs there is the common misconception that age is a factor when gaining investment, and whilst this may be true in regards to getting a loan from the bank (which let’s face it is unlikely unless your parents put up the collateral) it is not entirely true when it out denied that age is a factor by stating, “Age does not affect the proposal but may affect the structure and team required to deliver the business.” Potential for growth is key and showing a strong understanding of the market counts. You have to ask yourself questions such as, what is the size of the market, how will I gain a market share and why is my business different to those already existing? Investors want to know the return on their investment and this comes from potential growth or scalability. They want to be able to look at the current
business and imagine how it could grow. You have to help them see the potential.
investor will be exit driven and why shouldn’t he be, always remember this.
streams and expansion globally are key issues here.
The investment industry is changing; technology is allowing strong business ideas to come through with only a fraction of the start-up cost that was needed before. Although technology is changing the type of investments, the fact remains that, in order to gain initial investment you have to be able to show the right criteria, this is one thing technology won’t change.
All the elements talked about above are essential, however, as investors will agree, these all depend on you as the entrepreneur. There has to be chemistry between the investor and entrepreneur. Trust is undoubtedly the most important factor; the investor is giving you their hard earned cash, on the principle of belief, they therefore must trust all that you are and do. The entrepreneur has to be prepared to make concessions with those investing in their company, they most probably have experience that you won’t and it is essential that the entrepreneur is willing to accept this. Ultimately the
Gaining investment is hard, however as Henry Talbot-Ponsonby puts it, “there is a lot of money out there for good companies”. Prepare, don’t rush, test, manage, listen and grow.
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PRORSUM
BURBERRY.COM
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NOVIKOV RESTAURANT & BAR
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THE RUSSiAn, PAn-ASiAn AnD iTAliAn HybRiD WiTH A TASTE fOR THE REAl flAvOURS fROM bACk HOME
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As if there weren’t already enough Asian and Italian restaurants in London, Arkady Novikov, Russia’s muchcelebrated entrepreneur and restaurateur, set his sights on Mayfair a year ago and plotted two more on the map. Situated on the Green Park end of Mayfair’s Berkeley Street, directly opposite The Ritz and a stone’s throw away from - you clocked it - none other than the eponymous Nobu, Novikov is perfectly positioned to attract London’s rich and famous who already frequent the area. “You’ve got to be pretty brave to step on Nobu’s territory,” I hear you say. “No, not if you are Arkady Novikov.”
A
s you’ll have gathered, unlike Nobu, London’s most exclusive Japanese restaurant, Novikov has much more to offer than just sashimi. Born out of Russia and rooted in serving Pan-Asian and Italian cuisine, the venue is spread separate restaurants, a long bar, and a further lounge-come-bar-come-club. Before my visit, I totted up that it caters for at least six different cuisines, make that seven if you count the Russian bar snacks. Having booked my table for the evening, I decided to do a quick background check on the man himself, Arkady Novikov, whose name I have heard muttered in different circles. As it turns out, the Russian magnate is Britain’s equivalent to a rather intimidating mix of Gordon Ramsey and Alan Sugar. Aside from actually hosting Russia’s version of ‘The Apprentice,’ since 1962, he has also built up an empire, having founded over 60 leading restaurants in Russia alone, including the popular Vogue Café and GQ Bar. In a country that is, it must be said, rather un-renowned for its local cuisine, it’s easy to surmise that, with the support of Russia’s rising oligarch class, Novikov sole-handedly turfed-up Russia’s struggling restaurant scene from the throes of the Soviet Union and gave rise to the budding
thrives there today. On entering the establishment’s revolving doors with much intrigue, having momentarily done a double-taken on catching sight of the bullish, radio-wired bouncer, we made our way up to the reception desk where we were met politely and shown swiftly to our table along the front wall of the Pan-Asian restaurant. Within minutes we were handed two A3 menus that seemed to double in size on confronting the vast range of dishes on offer. My eyes moved from oscietra caviar to the French Gillardeau oysters and onto the langoustine tempura and wasabi blue that, although not typically Asian, raised my expectations. With my palate awash with the promise of delicious seafood, I placed my order. Before receiving our starters I took some time to soak in the atmosphere. Set across one wall, the Pan-Asian restaurant really is quite a feat in itself. Above all, what struck me was the fact that on a Monday evening buzzing. Every table was occupied and yet, helped by the low lighting and rich, minimal décor complete with ebony, jade
and granite interior, the restaurant still retained an intimate and luxurious but, at the same time, subtle atmosphere. Throughout the evening a variety of guests entered, ate and moved over to the bar, obviously planning to stay in situ for the entirety of the night and some, it later turned out, till the early hours of the morning. Our charismatic waiter eagerly offered to show us the produce that Novikov was serving that evening. Ever inquisitive, we made our way over to the open kitchen where a group of Asian chefs were in full swing rolling sushi, boiling dumplings stand-out features in the restaurant is its colourful display of fresh produce which Novikov has named the Asian marketplace. Although resembling nothing like an Asian street market, it did add a as we poured over the exotic mix of herbs, popped through to catch a glimpse of the Italian restaurant which, with its scattered olive trees, wheel-sized parmaggio and Italian chefs fresh from Sicily and Rome, seemed worlds apart from the room we were seated in next door. My companion opted for tuna and salmon sashimi for his starter which came beautifully presented on an iced, sea blue china plate whilst I opted for the crispy shitake mushroom dumplings and the Saudi prawn tempura. The sashimi was an exceptional dish that comes highly recommended for its smooth texture and creamy taste and the delicate, translucent dumpling cases, packed with complimented the sashimi very well. For main we took the waiter’s recommendation and shared the peppered langoustine a fancy to the crispy Peking duck and green apple salad which we topped off with some baby bok choi with soy ginger. Sourced in Madagascar, the langoustine measured up against a small lobster and had a spicy pepper seasoning which,
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when dipped in the garlic soy butter, really sent the senses buzzing. Mixed with pomegranate and shredded at the table, the Chinese duck salad, aside from being beautifully tender, had a sweet taste, which was offset nicely by the fruity greens. Now for the highlight; whatever you order, gunkun, one of Japanese-trained Head Chef, Jeff Tyler’s newest dishes, top of your list. It encapsulates everything that Tyler has so deservedly come to be known for. What can I say? His experimentation reaches its height in this dish with the warm quail egg and its oozing yolk, topped off with the earthy, chocolatey sensation Following a bowl of exotic, guava, strawberry and passion fruit sorbet to cleanse our palates, we made our way downstairs to Novikov’s New York style lounge where we kick-started the rest of our night. Sitting alongside a mix of fresh-faced guests and fellow diners, we savoured one of Nobu’s signature absinthe-based cocktails recommended from the lounge’s extensive cocktail menu as others enjoyed Dom Perignon bubbles and an assortment of heady delights from Novikov’s Japanese whiskey collection. Sensual and intimate with its grand chandeliers, velvet and leather upholstery and antique furnishings, the lounge is a venue where almost anything goes – While the true identity of Novikov remained clouded by the end of the evening, not helped of course by the cocktail, it goes without saying that the food truly is top notch, the atmosphere there’s one thing I’m sure of, Nobu’s going to need more than a pair of sushi knives to uphold its supremacy on Berkeley Street in years to come.
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500BHP, 0-60MPH IN 4.6 SECONDS, 500BHP, 0-60MPH IN TANK. 4.6 SECONDS, 500 MILES ON ONE 500 MILES ON ONE TANK. HARDLY0-60MPH SURPRISING WE’VE A GOOD 500BHP, IN 4.6 SECONDS, HARDLY SURPRISING WE’VE A GOOD 500BHP, 0-60MPH IN TANK. 4.6 SECONDS, FOR MILES NUMBERS. 500 ON ONE FOR NUMBERS. 500 MILES ON ONE TANK. HARDLY SURPRISING WE’VE A GOOD HARDLY SURPRISING WE’VE A GOOD FOR NUMBERS. FOR NUMBERS.
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CO Emissions (g/km): 246. fitting it now comes with a remarkable monthly repayment too. It all adds up to a Fuel economy for the Continental GT V8 in2 mpg (1/100km): Urban 18.4 (15.4); Extra Few cars cut as impressive figure theand new Continental V8.guaranteed The sharp Urban to give36.7 you(7.7); goosebumps measure. For more(g/km): information 246. and to book Combinedbeyond 26.9 (10.6). CO2 Emissions driving experience that both astirs theassoul calms the spirit.GT One # exterior lines, the dynamic 4.0 litreexample V8 engine, the Bentley eight-speed gearbox, 500 miles a test drive callper 01798 877213 Bentley Solutions representative from Financial Services based on 5,000 miles annum for†.Bentley Continental GT V8 with additional cost Few cars cut asNaturally, impressive a figure as the newsuch Continental V8. Theit’ssharp on a single tank. with a car that boasts impressiveGT numbers only to give you goosebumps #beyond measure. For more information and to book option Mulliner Driving Specification. Bentley Solutions representative from Bentley Financial based 5,000 miles per annum for†.Bentley GT V8Urban with additional exterior lines,comes the dynamic litreexample V8 engine, therepayment eight-speed 500upmiles aFuel test drive callfor 01798 877213 economy the Continental GT V8Continental in mpg (1/100km): 18.4 (15.4); cost Extra fitting it now with a 4.0 remarkable monthly too.gearbox, It allServices adds to a on Optional final payment ..........................................................................................................£62,747.50 24 amonthly payments of............................................................................................................. £888.00 option Mulliner Driving Specification. on single tank. Naturally, withstirs a carthe that boasts it’s only Urban Emissions (g/km): 246. 36.7 (7.7); Combined 26.9 (10.6). CO driving experience that both soul and such calmsimpressive the spirit. numbers One guaranteed 2 * Option tofinal purchase Duration ..........................................................................................................................................25 months ................................................................................................................ £79.00 Fuel economy for thefee Continental GT V8 in mpg (1/100km): Urban 18.4 (15.4); Extra fitting it now comes with a remarkable monthly repayment too. It all adds£888.00 up to a Optional payment ..........................................................................................................£62,747.50 24 monthly payments of............................................................................................................. On the experience road cash price Amount ofpurchase creditCombined ......................................................................................................................£74,643.73 Urban 36.7 (7.7); driving that.......................................................................................................£135,040.00 both stirs the soul and calms the spirit. One guaranteed * # 26.9 (10.6). CO2 Emissions (g/km): 246. Option to fee Duration ..........................................................................................................................................25 months ................................................................................................................ £79.00 Bentley Solutions representative example from Bentley Financial Services based on 5,000 miles per annum for Bentley Continental GT V8 with additional cost Deposit contribution ...............................................................................................................£10,000.00 Total amount payable ........................................................................................................... £144,534.77 On the Mulliner road cashDriving price .......................................................................................................£135,040.00 Amount of credit ......................................................................................................................£74,643.73 option Specification. # Customer deposit or part exchange.............................................................................£50,396.27 Rate of interest ...........................................................................................................................6.7% Fixed Bentley Solutions representative example from Bentley Financial Services based on 5,000 miles per annum for Bentley Continental GT V8 with additional cost Deposit contribution ...............................................................................................................£10,000.00 Total amount payable ........................................................................................................... £144,534.77 final payment ..........................................................................................................£62,747.50 24 monthly payments ofwithin ............................................................................................................. £888.00 Optional Acceptance fee Representative APR ....................................................................................................................6.8% APR (payable first payment)..........................................................................£169.00 option Mulliner Driving Specification. Customer deposit or part exchange.............................................................................£50,396.27 Rate of interest ...........................................................................................................................6.7% Fixed Duration..........................................................................................................................................25 months Option to purchase fee* ................................................................................................................ £79.00 Acceptance fee (payableofwithin APR....................................................................................................................6.8% APR first payment)..........................................................................£169.00 Optional final payment ..........................................................................................................£62,747.50 24 ............................................................................................................. £888.00 Representative Onmonthly the roadpayments cash price .......................................................................................................£135,040.00 Amount of credit ......................................................................................................................£74,643.73 * Option to purchase fee Duration ..........................................................................................................................................25 months ................................................................................................................ £79.00 Deposit contribution ...............................................................................................................£10,000.00 Total amount payable ........................................................................................................... £144,534.77 On the road cash price .......................................................................................................£135,040.00 of credit ......................................................................................................................£74,643.73 Customer deposit or part exchange.............................................................................£50,396.27 Amount Rate of interest ...........................................................................................................................6.7% Fixed Deposit contribution ...............................................................................................................£10,000.00 Total amount payable ........................................................................................................... £144,534.77 Acceptance fee (payable within Representative APR....................................................................................................................6.8% APR firstSUSSEX payment)..........................................................................£169.00 HARWOODS OF Customer deposit or part exchange.............................................................................£50,396.27 Rate of interest ...........................................................................................................................6.7% Fixed HARWOODS OFfirstWest SUSSEX Acceptance fee (payable Representative APR....................................................................................................................6.8% APR within payment) ..........................................................................£169.00 London Road, Pulborough, Sussex RH20 1AR. 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Tel: +44 (0)1798 877213 www.sussex.bentleymotors.com
H A RWO O D S O F S U S S E X
Bentley Financial Services Terms and Conditions: All prices include VAT at the current rate. #72p per mile excess mileage charges apply. Retail sales only. *Payable with optional final payment. Further charges may be payable HARWOODS OF SUSSEX if vehicle is returned. Indemnities may be required. Subject to status. Available to over 18s in the UK. Bentley Financial Services, Freepost VWFS. Available for cars ordered and delivered before 31st March 2013. All offers Bentley Financial Services Terms and Conditions: All prices include at thebecurrent #72p perat mile mileagefinance charges apply.are Retail sales but only.cannot *Payable with optional final payment. charges mayrecorded be payable will be for are subject to vehicle availability from participating Bentley dealers and may varied rate. or withdrawn anyexcess time. Other offers available be used in conjunction with thisFurther offer. Calls London Road, Pulborough, West Sussex RH20VAT 1AR. HARWOODS OF SUSSEX iftraining vehiclepurposes. is returned. Indemnities may be arequired. Subject to status. Available to over 18scustomers, in the UK.including Bentley Financial Services,Services Freepostand VWFS. Available ordered and delivered before 31st March 2013. All offers Harwoods work with number of creditors to provide finance to our Bentley Financial we may receivefor ancars incentive from them. †
† S OF SUSSEX H A RWO OD Tel: +44to(0)1798 877213wings www.sussex.bentleymotors.com will be for are vehicleand availability participating Bentley dealers and may©beFebruary varied or withdrawn any time. OtherModel finance offersBentley are available but cannot be used in conjunction this offer. Thesubject name ‘Bentley’ the ‘B’ infrom device are registered trademarks. BentleyatMotors Limited. shown: Continental GT V8, 14 model year mrrpwith £126,200. PriceCalls correct at recorded time of going London Road, Pulborough, Sussex RH20 1AR.finance to our2013 training Harwoods withWest aexcludes number of creditors to provide customers, including Bentley Financial Services and we may receive an incentive from them. to presspurposes. and includes VAT at work 20%. Price road fund licence, registration and delivery charges. H A£126,200. RWO O Dcorrect S O Fat Stime U SofSgoing EX Tel:name +44‘Bentley’ (0)1798 877213 www.sussex.bentleymotors.com The and the ‘B’ in wings device are registered trademarks. © February 2013 Bentley Motors Limited. Model shown: Bentley Continental GT V8, 14 model year mrrp Price Bentley Financial Services Terms and Conditions: All prices include VAT at the current rate. #72p per mile excess mileage charges apply. Retail sales only. *Payable with optional final payment. Further charges may be payable to press and includes VAT at 20%. Price excludes road fund licence, registration and delivery charges. if vehicle is returned. Indemnities may be required. Subject to status. Available to over 18s in the UK. Bentley Financial Services, Freepost VWFS. Available for cars ordered and delivered before 31st March 2013. All offers will be for are subject to vehicle availability participatingAllBentley dealers VAT and may varied rate. or withdrawn anyexcess time. Other offers areRetail available be used conjunction with this Further offer. †Calls Bentley Financial Services Terms from and Conditions: prices include at thebecurrent #72p peratmile mileagefinance charges apply. salesbut only.cannot *Payable with in optional final payment. charges mayrecorded be payable training purposes. Harwoods work with a number of creditors to provide finance to our customers, including Bentley Financial Services and we may receive an incentive from them. if vehicle is returned. Indemnities may be required. Subject to status. Available to over 18s in the UK. Bentley Financial Services, Freepost VWFS. Available for cars ordered and delivered before 31st March 2013. All offers † correct at time of going Thesubject name ‘Bentley’ the ‘B’ infrom wings device are Bentley registered trademarks. Bentley at Motors Limited. shown: Continental GT V8, 14 model year mrrpwith £126,200. Price Calls will be recorded for are to vehicleand availability participating dealers and may©beFebruary varied or2013 withdrawn any time. OtherModel finance offersBentley are available but cannot be used in conjunction this offer. to presspurposes. and includes VAT at 20%. fund licence, registration delivery charges. training Harwoods work Price with aexcludes numberroad of creditors to provide financeand to our customers, including Bentley Financial Services and we may receive an incentive from them. The name ‘Bentley’ and the ‘B’ in wings device are registered trademarks. © February 2013 Bentley Motors Limited. Model shown: Bentley Continental GT V8, 14 model year mrrp £126,200. Price correct at time of going to press and includes VAT at 20%. Price excludes road fund licence, registration and delivery charges.
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&
LIFESTYLE THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
CULTURE I
n this marvellously researched and evocative biography, the author has captured not just the soul of her subject, but the spirit of an exciting era. Hutch, a gifted musician and entertainer, comes to life in this richly documented and illustrated book... Born in Grenada in 1900, Leslie Hutchinson went to America in 1916 to study medicine, but soon escaped to Harlem where he witnessed the birth of “stride” jazz piano. The Vanderbilt family spotted his talent and introduced him to the jazz greats, Duke Ellington and Fats Waller with whom he performed.
In the early 1920’s he travelled to Paris, Madrid and Venice, his fame rapidly propelled by the then American European jet-set. In 1926 he arrived in London, taking it by storm where he taught the Charleston to the Prince of Wales, along with Bricktop, Cole Porter, Tallulah Bankhead and Diana Cooper. He soon became a sort of fashion accessory for celebrities with whom he had numerous scandalous affairs. He had many gay partners, including Ivor Novello, and an intermittent affair with Cole Porter lasting nearly thirty years. Immaculate in white tie and tails, Hutch had enormous sex appeal, his velvet voice and superb piano improvisation attracting legions of fans among both the rich and the slump-struck poor. Despite his success however, Hutch was a profoundly insecure man with insatiable appetites for sex, drink, gambling and social status which precipitated his fall from fame to a squalid existence by the late 1960s. This book provides a detailed look at his interesting life.
T
Tower, the most impressive thing about the venue is, of course, the spectacular view. Rarely does one get to view the Gherkin from above. On a clear night the vista across London is truly breathtaking. Try and secure a table near the window to fully enjoy this. The restaurant is open 24 hours a day which draws the crowds in on mass; a rare spectacle resulting from London being leaps behind other capitals when it comes to after booking. Even at a late hour the restaurant was quietly buzzing with a mixture of excited ladies ordering too much wine and after work city types. The atmosphere is considerably more mellow in comparison to Sushi Samba After guests steady themselves following a terrifyingly swift lift ride (it had to be slowed down as guests complained of queasiness) they are confronted with the menu. The selection is not overly large, but has a mixture of delicacies from around the globe. Guests are encouraged to order multiple small dishes to share. With good food, and excellent views this restaurant is perfect for impressing overseas visitors, a date, or simply for enjoying our beautiful city from a different (somewhat loftier) perspective.
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Runs til 13th April so book quickly
W
ell... I have to admit that probably, originally, I jumped at the idea of seeing QUARTERMAINE’S TERMS because Rowan Atkinson was in it... but actually as it turned out, that fact, although adding very thick and delicious icing on the theatrical cake, was just one ingredient in in this play by Simon Gray the central character needed no casting at all... for sign of life”. Continuing the theme of contradiction, this “inanimate” object is of life it also actually has a persona.. but it IS inanimate because sadly it doesn’t actually breathe. Of course what I refer to is the leather armchair, quietly sitting stage right in the staff-room where all the action takes place. St John Quartermaine has clearly occupied this particular armchair in the staffroom at the School of English for Foreigners in Cambridge for many decades, possibly even from a pre historic era when his mind was sharp and possessed a talent for teaching; before the fog of age descended and left this innately polite and cordial shell of a man.This man so tenderly and beautifully portrayed, with every developing twitch of the hand and the increasing usage of the word “TER-RIFIC” as an exit strategy from the muddle of conversation, is the central hub around which all the other staff seamlessly swim. The ghost of spare time lurks at weekends and school holidays, jeering at Quartermaine the minute he has to leave the safety of the armchair. We the audience can feel the tangible relief when on a monday morning he says, “It’s good to be back”. Interestingly we glean the characters of the other staff through the emotions they bring back into the staff-room from their world outside of the school beyond the croquet lawn. As each one reveals an abundance of complication in their lives through un-cast yet very present characters, such as Nurse Grimes and Melanie’s decaying mother or Derek’s newly acquired girlfriend with a speech impediment or Henry’s slightly neurotic exam swatting daughter, we perhaps begin to think that dear St John Quartermaine is in an enviable position “not letting the world impinge on him”. What one is left feeling is that it is through these people, we can not visibly behold, that we gain access to see into the characters in Atkinson (I now call him this because he so embodies the character, that it is as if Rowan Atkinson himself is not an actor, has never been an actor, but actually is the old crumbling english teacher) and possibly we do the crying on his behalf as we inwardly sense the fear of old age, our old age. Is he abandoned by his colleagues or is he cruelly forced to abandon the armchair?
In cinemas March 8th
T
Colin Farrell and Noomi Rapace star as two strangers who are irresistibly drawn to one another by their mutual desire
co-stars Terrence Howard and Dominic Cooper, from a screenplay by J.H.Wyman (Fringe), which Wyman sent to Oplev directly as he had loved his work on the original hit ‘The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo’ so much. Distributed by Film District (The Rum Diary, Drive, Looper) which is fast becoming the top distribution and co producing company violence yet in the story it is through coming together that they give will live up to the hype and expectation. www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk r Spring 2013
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Portraying Life
Manet
THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
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THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
at the royal academy, london 26 January - 14 april 2013 manet is the blocKbuster exhibition oF the season in london.
M
anet (1832-83) painted portraits
exhibition devoted entirely to his portraits. Secondly, never before have so many works – more than 50 - by Manet been assembled in this country. Thirdly, the show offers a rare chance to see many works from private collections or from less accessible museums in the USA, Japan and Brazil. Finally, Manet is one of the great painters of the 19th century and painted some extraordinary works, several of which are in this show. Manet was a very idiosyncratic and avantgarde artist, who perplexed viewers and attracted the harsh opprobrium of critics in his time. Luckily for Manet, he came from a well-to-do background and did not depend on his art for his livelihood. This gave him the independence to paint what and how he pleased and to take risks in his work. He trained for six years under the academic painter, Thomas Couture, and spent much time copying old master paintings in the Louvre. The painters of Renaissance Venice and 17th-century Spain and Holland, such as Titian, Giorgione, Hals, Rubens, Velazquez and his work. He had a relatively brief professional career – less than three decades. His life was cut short because of syphilis possibly inherited from his father. He had his left leg amputated in 1851 and died two years later, aged only 51. Still, he managed to produce about 400 works. Manet is often referred, misleadingly, to as ‘the father of Impressionism’: in fact he eschewed most of the key ideas of the Impressionists. He was not interested in conveying the effects of changing light or movement. He did not like painting en plein air (preferring studio work); he did not like their light palette (preferring dark tonalities and indeed famously using a great deal of black) nor their loose, rapid brushwork (preferring the more meticulous style of the Old Masters). Nonetheless, he was a close friend of many of his younger, Impressionist, artist contemporaries e.g. Monet, Degas, Renoir, www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk r Spring 2013
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THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
Sisley and Pissarro. He supported them and even bought many of their works, and they bought his. However, he turned down invitations to show his work at any of the eight great Impressionist exhibitions. recognition and hankered to be accepted by the more academic and conservative in 1859, was (rightly) rejected. Although two of his paintings were accepted in the next show, he was again rejected in the 1863 show, and chose instead to show his now celebrated Déjeuner sur l’herbe at the alternative Salon des Refusés, where it provoked one of the great brouhahas in the history of art.
What makes Manet distinctive are the paradoxes and anomalies of his style and techniques, some traditional and some resolutely modern. He did not execute preparatory drawings, preferring to paint directly onto the canvas. He did not favour the traditional ‘noble’ genre of ‘history’ painting – that is, paintings on allegorical, religious or mythological themes. Most of his paintings, even the ‘genre’ ones, are ostensibly portraits. Manet’s family feature in many of his paintings. His wife, Suzanne Leenhoff, household as music teacher to his two
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younger brothers, was a constant presence in his work. Her son, Léon, who we now think was either Manet’s son or Manet’s with Suzanne earlier on), also appeared frequently in Manet’s work. Surprisingly, he did only two self-portraits. He had a very wide circle of friends, including leading artists, writers and musicians. Derided by many art critics, Manet was, however, vigorously defended by the Irish writer George Moore, the young novelist Zola and the poets Mallarmé and Baudelaire, the latter exhorting him to embrace modernity and realism. Manet thanked these supporters by inviting them to sit for him – and we
THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
see their portraits in this show. Unlike his predecessors, he chose as his sitters members of the bourgeoisie, whom he depicted at leisure - at lunch, in a bar, in the garden or just enjoying a nice day out in Paris. Manet was pre-eminently an urbanite, who lived almost entirely in the centre of Paris, a Paris that, thanks to Baron Haussmann and the advent of the railway, was being suddenly and rapidly modernized. A snappy dresser himself, Manet portrayed Parisians in their chic, contemporary dress. He was indeed very up-to-date in his paintings, portraying the the balcony, the conservatory, the railway, the bar, the bicycle (or velocipede), the picnic, the concert in the park, the riding Photography too fascinated him: he had himself photographed several times and made albums of photographic cartes de visite. The exhibition is divided thematically. I personally think a chronological approach would have been more enlightening. out the exhibition and build round the small number of real masterpieces. Manet was an inconsistent artist, and many of
bizarrely, included himself and his wife dressed as Rubens and his second wife portraits of Carolus-Duran and The Rider suggest that their scale defeated him. The Tragic Actor Philibert Rouvières is a large, clumsily worked painting; the portrait of the artist Eva Gonzalès is awkward and unconvincing. It is also a shame that some of Manet’s key portraits are missing: notably Le Bar aux Folies-Bergères (in the Courtauld), Olympia and Le déjeuner sur l’herbe (both at the Musée d’Orsay). Despite these shortcomings, the exhibition important and beautiful works. The poster girl is the artist Berthe Morisot, the great-grand niece of Fragonard and of his paintings. Berthe Morisot with a Bouquet of Violets, showing the young woman dressed in the latest Parisian fashion, is instantly captivating. Le déjeuner is a wonderful work, dominated by the portrait of the 16 year-old snub-nosed Léon Leenhoff, looking a little cocky and dandyish, in his fashionable black jacket and pert little straw hat. Like many of Manet’s works, it poses an enigma: what is Manet trying to convey? Who are the two other shadowy
The Portrait of Emile Zola is a superb work, showing the young novelist, seated at his desk, surrounded by books and art works. It incorporates four art works - a print by Goya after Velázquez’s Triumph of Bacchus and a print after Manet’s own Olympia, and two Japanese works (japonisme being very much in vogue) - as well as a still life of books and papers. Le déjeuner sur l’herbe, though lacking the impact of the much larger work at the Musee d’Orsay, is still a superb work. Inspired by Titian’s Fête Champêtre and Giorgione’s La Tempesta, it has the enigmatic, mysterious feel of its antecedents. It is hard for us today to see how it caused such a monumental scandal in 1863. The Street Singer is a wonderful work, in which the itinerant singer is shown full-length, carrying a guitar and, oddly, hitching up her dress to reveal a bit of her mouth. The Railway is a beautiful, bright, sunlit work, which met with hostility when it was shown at the 1872 Salon but is now (rightly) considered one of Manet’s masterpieces. from Realism to Impressionism, who can be said to be one of the fathers of modern art. manet: PortrayinG liFe is sponsored by Bny Mellon
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ART INVESTMENT OVER THE LAST 10 YEARS, AS FINANCIERS DESPAIR OVER THE STOCK MARKET AND CONVENTIONAL INVESTMENT VEHICLES, ART HAS INCREASINGLY BEEN SEEN AS A FORM OF INVESTMENT, PARTICULARLY AS ART SALES SEEM TO HAVE BEEN GLORIOUSLY UNAFFECTED BY THE GLOBAL ECONOMIC DOWNTURN: SALES AT CHRISTIE’S TOTALLED £3.92 BILLION IN 2012, UP 10% FROM 2011 – AND ALMOST 20% OF BIDDERS WERE NEW CLIENTS.
O
ne of the problems was obtaining knowledge of a market that has traditionally been shrouded in mystery by its own high priests. Various art indexes were set up to try to give an objective analysis of performance, the best known being the Mei Moses Index, which tracked 30,000 works over 20 years and showed returns that compared favourably with stocks and equities etc. Fuelled by this knowledge and by the mind-numbing prices fetched daily at Christie’s and Sotheby’s sales, various art funds were created mainly for the £0.5m+ investors, but almost all have collapsed. Art investment is very tricky. It can’t be looked at as just another commodity, like gold. It’s the most opaque, illiquid and unregulated asset. Of course, the Internet and art price websites have given the
average punter extraordinarily enhanced knowledge of the market, but the fact remains that about 60% of art is traded privately. A neophyte art collector is faced with a bewildering number of hurdles. He has to think what geographical area of art he wants to go into: British, European, Chinese, or Indian etc? Then what genre of art: painting, sculpture or silver etc? Then what period or style: ancient, 18th century, 19th century? Renaissance, Victorian, Modern, Contemporary? Even if he decides on Contemporary, he still has more decisions to make: painting, mixed media, on canvas, on paper, installation, video etc? Go for big names or punt on young, emerging artists? Buy at auction houses, galleries, and art schools or via the Internet?
Mark Rothko, No 1 Royal Red and Blue, sold at Sotheby’s in November 2012 for $75m
J M W Turner, Campo Vaccino, Rome , sold at Sotheby’s in July 2010 for £30m
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THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
Jeff Koons, Tulips, sold at Christie’s in November 2012, for $34m
Leonardo Devinci - The Lady With The Ermine, privately owned.
One of Damien Hurst’s Spot Paintings
Moreover, fashion plays a huge part in the market. For centuries, the auction Masters, trounced in the 1970s and 80s by Impressionists, clobbered in the last 10 years by the current Masters of the Universe - Contemporary. About 10 years ago, contemporary Russian, Indian and Middle Eastern art looked hot: those markets rose spectacularly then keeled over. If you had bought a few Damien Hirst dot paintings 20 years ago and sold them in the last few years, you’d be laughing all the way to your island in the Caribbean. ‘Brown’ (or Victorian) furniture is worth little these days; 17th century walnut furniture was very expensive in the 80s and 90’s – but no more. Silver used to be a big department at the auction houses, but no more. Some areas, such as glass and porcelain, even sculpture, have never hit the big time. Collectors or investors have to ask themselves whether they want to go into a big ‘hot’ sexy area such as British contemporary or a neglected or niche area, such as sculpture, or a recently unfashionable area, such as Irish furniture. One of the big questions will always be price. Price is affected by a number of factors, aside from the beauty and quality of the work: the artist and his reputation, the date of the work, the size,
the frame, the medium (oil is generally more expensive than paper), provenance (i.e. previous owners), exhibition history and, of course, condition. Authenticity is perhaps the most worrisome and complicated factor. Rarity or ‘last chance to buy’ is also very important. There is only one great Leonardo in private hands: if The Lady with the Ermine were to appear at Christie’s, the price would be stratospheric perhaps $150m or even, $200m? OK, how can a young collector or enthusiast buy and invest at a less empyrean level? If you plan to spend, up to £10,000, I would say there is almost no serious investment potential, unless you are very lucky or take a very long-term view. I think you will need to spend at least £100,000 and preferably £1m to make a serious investment in art – and then you have to deal with insurance, storage etc. My advice to any art buyer is 1. Look at as much art as possible – in museums and galleries, as well as art fairs and auction houses 2. Read a few books and study the auction house catalogues to learn the lingo and learn why two similar-looking pieces fetch 3. Don’t be afraid to ask the prices whether at a smart gallery or at an art fair 4. Compare prices for any given artist on
an art price website such as artprice.com 5. If you buy at one of the big auction house or established gallery, you can feel fairly safe re authenticity. If you buy as there are lots of copies and fakes around, increasingly so. If you’re spending less than £1000, you needn’t worry too much, as long as you love the piece. 6. You’ll need to hold onto the art work for about 5-10 years before you can hope 7. You can buy as part of an investment consortium or art fund group: there are a couple of reputable ones, which have a managed art portfolio service targeted at private investors, the minimum investment being $1m over three years. 8. If you want to spend some serious money, seek the advice of an art professional. There are many ‘art advisers’ and ‘art consultants’ around: many of them worked in marketing or PR and then suddenly became art experts. Be careful. I think the golden rule is buy something to which you have a gut reaction, that you fall in love with and which will give you pleasure every time you look at it. terence rodriGues, a former Oxford lecturer and Christie’s director, is an international art consultant, advising clients on art purchases and sales and art investment.
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TECHNOLOGY REVIEW THE MODERN GENTLEMAN
BANG & OLUFSEN BEOLAB 5
2500 watts of digital
Stereophiles’ drool has been B&O’s main source of fuel in its astonishing 88 years since it began. Goodness knows where they store it all but it looks like
smallest of
not only intimidatingly attractive but they also serve as sound portholes to another dimension. We might not know where exactly the speakers transport you too, but we know it’s a place where sound is worshipped and moods are sky high. Adaptive Bass Control listens and learns, tuning the sounds to the acoustics of the room it is in. We Like.
allows you to
SENTURION UNLOCKING THE FUTURE
TECHNOLOGY IS CHANGING OUR LIVES MORE THEN EVER BEFORE, AND OVER THE LAST TWO YEARS THERE HAVE BEEN MANY INDUSTRY PROFESSIONALS WHO HAVE PREDICTED THAT IN THE COMING YEARS WE WILL BE ABLE TO CONTROL EVERYTHING FROM OUR MOBILE PHONE DEVICES. WHILST THIS MAY BE FANTASTIC FOR TURNING THE KETTLE ON IN THE MORNING, NATURALLY THERE ARE CONCERNS WHEN IT COMES TO SECURITY WITH PAYMENTS AND HOME SECURITY.
One such company has developed a product which solves both the security problem and at the same time makes our lives easier. The company in question is called Asset and their product is called Senturion. Essentially Senturion is a keyless entry device that is incorporated into a stylish bracelet.
The company also stresses that this technology has a range of other applications, which they are exploring. The bracelet itself has been
The technology has been designed by Yale and consists of an inbuilt antenna that transfers energy from the receptor to the Senturion, in turn unlocking a door and making keys a thing of the past.
We say, if you are in the process of building or renovating your own
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stylish aesthetics, they say “it is capable of withstanding a great deal more than a typical wristwatch”.
senturionkey.com
5 BEST HEADPHONES THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
DENON AH-D7100 - £1,200 Denon have been a respected headphone producer for some time now, but although their presence is known for sure, they breaking down walls like Sennheiser - until now. The cool design reminds you of Beats by Dre, but with added class. The silver and brown compliment each other, far upstaging the old model. Cushiony comfort will mostly always be noticeable on your head but the noise isolation quality is a lucrative pay off with noisy environments shushed softly away. The 50mm Nano Fiber drivers privide rich sounds with meaty bass but with less attention on the top end intricacies. Denon are centre stage now.
MUNITIO NINES GLD TACTICAL - K30031 - £1,000 With all earbuds, you never really know what sound quality you’re going to get, or how loud you have to put the volume until you get some resounding beats going. However, these little bullits offer a gloriously bellowing sound from the small stylish ear pieces. The price is high, especially for such a small to mankind’s need for quantity in exchange for hard earned cash, but the quantity you’ll sound. You might tell yourself that the money is better spent else where but these hot shots hold their own against the big guns so think twice, bite your tongue, chamber the guilt, cock the pistol and lend
SENNHEISER HD 800 - £1,240.
THE ULTRASONE EDITION 10 - £1,800
With a high retail price, you expect the sound quality of these headphones to not only massage your ears but also your head, back and shoulders. If it wasn't for the fact that they are headphones, they just might do that too, the sound quality is a another step above Sennheiser's usual high standard. With a striking design and large earcups, the 800's look uniquely cool while directing the sounds directly towards the front of the listener's ears to prevent quality loss. With the light weight headset, even ear-pad pressure, they feel positively luxurious once on.
AUDEZE LCD 3 - £1,300 Audeze are a young audio headphone company with killer style. Specialising in planer magnetic headphones, they have broken through as a popular choice for keen audiophiles. The large headset keeps a good distance between your ears and the drivers which contributes to the cavernous sound they produce. Although comfortable and
At the top end of our price scale the Ultrasone’s do what it says on the box - price wise. You always get what you pay for in life - but we rarely get more, like we do with these beauties. Custom foam lines the light but elegant cans (headphones that is…) very comfortably, and matched with the bright clarity and detail of the sound, we are grainless and the midrange is balanced and They are very light weight and the build quality is top shelf. With balanced overall tonality in the midrange, bass and treble the Edition 10 is a strong contender for the podium.
stable, if you want to look super fashion trendy with cute hipster headphones then move on, these are for the performance junkies who want their tunes signed, sealed and delivered on time, well packaged and polished for immediate use. The warm ambient sound stage is amongst the very best in town, with controlled sonics taking front row seats. This company cares about their listeners, a lot.
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GENTLEMAN’S
ETIQUETTE DINNER PARTY BORES – THE FOODIE
There are a number of guides to giving successful dinner parties, including a book Etiquette and Modern Manners’, and this is still in print 32 years later. This has an extensive section on entertaining, including such essential items as invitations, advice on special dietary requirements, which wines are best to compliment which dishes, laying the table, condiments (a horrible word), glasses and so on. It also goes into detail on greeting guests on arrival, and the etiquette at the end of the meal, how to deal with drunken guests, smoking, and the dreaded after-dinner entertainment, but what happens if all the best laid plans are hi-jacked by the guests from hell, or in some cases by the hosts from hell. However much care you put into planning the perfect dinner party, its ultimate success depends on the ability and willingness of the guests to enter into the spirit of the occasion, and my latest ‘bête noir’ are the new breed of ‘foodie bores’ who are almost certainly the result of the endless diet of cooking programs on television. It is not uncommon nowadays for your hosts to bore you rigid with a pre-dinner lecture on the entire ingredients of each course of the meal that you are about to eat, and where they found them, which normally involves having just returned from India where they bought special spices or curry leaves, in an obscure market in a place with an unpronounceable name, or some exotic food which was grown on the foothills of the Himalayas and picked by virgins in the early morning dew on the south face of the mountain following a full moon; sort of ‘bio-dynamic meets Indian mystic’, and even if the ingredients were all sourced in this country, you will have to listen to the cooking techniques, which feels familiar to the short blurb from the contestants in Masterchef explaining what they going to do with their obscure ingredients.
A few years ago I was introduced to the special qualities of Himalayan salt, which is supposed to be very good for you. However, a Foodie bore will go much further and reveal that ‘it’ contains all the minerals and trace elements of which our bodies are made, and that natural salt is crucial for maintaining vital functions in the body. It consists of the most perfect geometric structure possible in rock crystals, the result of millions of years of compression under the Earth’s surface. It has precise mesh with our body’s inner workings because Himalayan salt contains an almost identical set of elements to those found inside the human body, 84 of the possible 92 trace minerals, in the same proportion as naturally exists in our blood.’
St Tropez, where they make the best Provence Rose in the world. I have always felt that the enjoyment of food or wine is diminished by lengthy discussion about
All this because you asked them to pass
In New York it was the size of your apartment that occupied many a dinner party conversation, which should be banned as the American equivalent of the
Of course wine bores can be equally irritating. I have a friend who cannot serve wine without giving its origins and full provenance, and telling us, in detail, where and when he bought it and precisely how much paid for it, and by exactly how much it has increased in value. I consider it very ‘Non-U’ to discuss how much you paid for your wine, and somewhat condescending to be told all about it, when you may already know more about it than your host, or to be lectured on the wine you are about to drink, rather than just being left alone to enjoy it, and form your own opinions of its special qualities, and its suitability to the food being served with it. Aristocrats treat wine rather like furniture; they were probably left enough of the good stuff not to have to buy their own, so they take it a bit for granted that you will be drinking well-aged classic wines, although some varieties are of course, best drunk young, which is a concession I am prepared to make. But even then you can be bored rigid with a travelogue of how the host discovered this charming little vineyard just a few miles inland from
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be pleasantly surprised, but some dinner parties now are more like an episode of alone to just enjoy their food, without a running commentary? My generation were taught that subjects to avoid discussing in polite society were politics, sex and religion, which just about removes any possibility of amusing ‘nouveau’ to discuss money in polite company, which removes another swathe of conversation.
property, and how much it had increased since you bought it. Other subjects best avoided at dinner parties are obesity, pregnancy and childbirth, breast-feeding, obscure medical conditions, disability, sexually transmitted diseases, and the route you took to get to the hosts house. Roy Strong, as director of the V&A, once told me that the essential ingredients for a successful Museum Exhibition were royalty, jewels, sex and death, and if blockbuster. The opposite seems to apply to dinner parties. Anyway, by the time you have banned politics, religion, sex, pregnancy, money, property prices, royalty, death, jewels, obesity, childbirth, breast-feeding, sexually transmitted diseases, and physical disabilities from dinner party conversation, you might as well stay at home and watch Masterchef on television.
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the handshake
the toast
springs to mind. No one likes to shake a especially one that folds at the knuckle and
MoBile Phones:
The art of giving a good toast is rather illusive. The situation depends on several variables: your host, your audience and the tone of the event. If the feeling of giving a toast feels similar to the feeling of
rule 1: rule 2: just over an arm widths apart from your partner. Do not invade personal space by leaning too far forward. Do not attempt to ‘possess’ your partner by pulling him into you. rule 3: Eye Contact: As you extend your arm establish eye contact. Continue to do so right through to the end of the handshake. rule 4: Never actually shake more than 3 times. Despite what the name suggests, shaking is optional and a simple squeeze for a few handed shake (where your remaining hand covers your partners) is best avoided in most cases: too American; too eager. n.B Shake, squeeze or both, whatever you rule 5: Smile. Squeezing without smiling can come across as threatening, or, worse, try-hard and insecure. Make every effort to avoid this impression. If you’re not one to bare your teeth, do what you can to make the experience a positive one. Introducing yourself and following up with something charming should do the trick. “How do
We may all have ‘em but we certainly don’t all know how to use ‘em. Follow the guidelines below to progress from a mere man-with-mobile to a gentleman-with-amobile. rule 1: Refrain as much as possible from using your mobile in the company of others. Constantly bringing out your phone does not prove your popularity; it merely shows a lack of attention to those around you. rule 2: Mobile phones and meals do not mix. Never have your phone on anything but silent in a restaurant and do not put it on the table. If you need to check it, excuse yourself for a moment. The only exception to this is when you are on your own but, again, discretion is imperative. rule 3: A gentleman is always prompt. This also applies to texts and calls. Please note we said ‘prompt’ and not ‘persistent’; there is a clear difference. rule 4: You will never catch a gentleman gossiping on the phone and a gentleman does not ‘chat’. Face-to-face engagement is always the preferred option. rule 5: Txt Spk iz a no-no :). Always use correct English, please.
seas. To swim to shore however, well, we’re afraid that part is all down to you. rule 1: Know when it is appropriate. Generally, toasts are best kept for private occasions. If you must toast in a restaurant, do so with discretion. Your toast, important as it may be, is of no importance to those dining alongside you. rule 2: Ensure you have the full attention of your audience, no matter the size. You have no chance of delivering a successful toast if people are not listening and you will be undermined when their mutterings distract others. Clinking your glass with your fork will silence the crowd in an elegant fashion. rule 3: Content: this, we are reluctant to offer instruction on for reasons explained above. Delivery though, is key: a good toast should contact. No notes certainly look smoother but are no problem if needed. Watch out for the pace at which you are speaking; a gentleman does not need to rush. rule 4: Time-keeping. Knowing when to stop is vitally important. If you start to drone on, people will begin to mutter or even heckle and you will look a fool. rule 5: If in doubt, keep it short and candid. Not
Don’t Forget… If you’re sitting down and others enter the room, before even thinking about offering your hand, for God’s sake, stand up. www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk r Spring 2013
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DRINKS The Top 4 Whiskys
DRINKS CLASSIC BORDEAUX’S & CHRISTMAS COCKTAILS 1
1
Macallan Gold Innovative, pioneering and assertive
2 talisker 10 year Lots of spice with a thick smoke, fresh and fragrant aromas equaling an intense coastal blend from the Isle of Skye. Always a highly rated dram with an ever-increasing fan base. £31.49 - talisker.com
3 GlenFiddich 15 A superb leap from the 12 year, balancing complexity and tradition with ease. This single malt Scotch whisky aged in three oaks, has a great depth and consistency, woody yet sweet with fresh fruit and honey.
4 Balvenie 30 Rare, unusual mellow aroma, with a deep chocolate plum taste and a lingering smooth sweetness, to simply satisfy. This distinct Balvenie marries hand picked aged casks with European sherry casks. £340 - thebalvenie.com
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2
3
4
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THE BEST 3 ARGENTINIAN WINES
M
albec’s origin is as a minor blending variety of red Bordeaux, but planted in the Mendoza region of Argentina. The natural attributes of the high altitude Mendoza region allow for this world-class wine, sitting on the same lines of latitude as South Africa and New Zealand, the constant rays of celebrated sunshine and the mountains cooling effect blend together to create a robust wine.
associated with Argentinean Malbec consist of currants; cherries, raspberries and plums, all much like the small, dark and juicy grape. The high quality concentration of result of the wine being liberally oaked. After more than a century of nurturing, this pure variety is currently unbeatable in terms of value for money.
MENDEL 2010
LA FLOR 2012
VINALBA 2011
This wine has an expressive bouquet with scents of blackberry and raspberry. This wine is also a dark plum, but is infused with thyme and even mint. It has a medium bodied
Its colour is deep and brooding in stark contrast to the nose which
This wine literally wraps itself around your mouth with the ripe dark plum
fruity taste works swimingly with the harmonious palate with silky tanins.
a long time, accompanied by sweet juicy tanins.
effervescent freshness and vitality in
So a pleasingly rounded wine with a polished stucture.
Ideal to accompany a peppered steak or lamb.
£10.45 bbr.com
£10.99 majestic.co.uk
£17.95 jeroboams.co.uk
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For over 20 years Nyetimber has had a single aim: to make the finest English sparkling wine, one to rival the very best in the world, including Champagne. A true pioneer, Nyetimber was the very first producer of English sparkling wine to craft wines made exclusively from the three celebrated varieties found in Champagne: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. In 1988, Nyetimber planted its first vines and today, the House is regarded as one of England’s finest wine producers. Owner Eric Heerema and winemaker Cherie Spriggs are committed to producing wines of a Grande Marque standard. Each bottle of Nyetimber is crafted from one hundred percent of estate-grown grapes.
www.nyetimber.com
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FOOD
Mark HIX RUSTLES UP A DELICIOUS FRENCH CLASSIC Ham hock, snail and wild garlic pie
We tend to associate cooking snails with France and Spain but there is a snail eating culture in Britain which dates
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Ingredients 1 x 700G–1kG haM hock
100Ml white wine
225G selF-raisinG Flour
4 MediuM onions, Peeled
16–20 PluMP cooked snails,
1 tsP salt
and halved
shells reMoved a handFul oF wild Garlic,
1 tsP Black PePPercorns
choPPed (or Garlic chives)
1 Bay leaF
salt and Freshly Ground
85G shredded BeeF suet 60G Butter, chilled and coarsely Grated
Black PePPer
70G Butter
150–175Ml water 1 MediuM eGG, Beaten, to
60G Flour
P
lace the ham hock in a large pan with half the onion, the peppercorns and bay leaf. Cover with cold water and bring to the boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 1 1/2 –2 hours, or until tender.
Plain Flour, For dustinG
Glaze
Fill a large pie dish with the mixture. together in a bowl. Add the butter and rub breadcrumb-like consistency.
Remove the hock from the pan, reserving the liquid, and leave to cool. Once cool, remove and discard any skin and remove the meat from the bone. Reserve the bone, cut the meat into rough 3cm chunks and put to one side. measure out a litre and add to a pan over a low heat to keep hot. Finely chop the remaining onion halves, add to a heavy-based saucepan, with the butter and cook for 2–3 minutes until soft. the white wine, stirring to avoid any lumps. Then add the reserved ham stock, stirring, bit by bit. Bring to the boil and simmer gently for 30 minutes. The sauce should be quite thick by now – if not, continue simmering for a little longer. Remove from the heat and leave to cool a little. Add the ham hock meat, snails and garlic and season to taste.
Mix in the water to form a smooth dough, then knead for a minute. Roll out on a thickness. Trim until about 2cm larger all the way round than the rim of your pie dish. Place the ham bone in the centre of the pie. Brush the edges of the pastry with a little of the beaten egg, make a slit in the centre for the bone and lay the pastry on top of your pie, pressing the egg-washed edges onto the rim of the dish. Brush the top of the pastry with beaten egg and leave to rest in a cool place for about 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 180ÅãC/gas mark 5. Bake for about 45 minutes, or until the pastry is golden brown. Serve at once. hix MayFair - w1F 9uP tel: 020 7292 3518 thealbemarlerestaurant.com www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk r Spring 2013
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BENTLEY GTC
CONTI NENTAL
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THE BENTLEY GTC CONTINENTAL
The Gentleman’s Journal got their hands on the New Bentley GTC Convertible, here is what our Car Editor Alex Nall-Cain had to say about the experience.
F
ollowing a week driving a smorgasbord of two-seater, highperformance rockets, my excitement fell short when heard that I was to put to the test a four-seated drive that I’d had engraved on my mind as a traditional, dare I say, old man’s car. My pre-judgements were obliterated when I came face-to-face with the car that was delivered to my door a marigold yellow convertible Bentley GTC. I admit, I momentarily thought that a himself, was going to jump out and ask for directions. Instead, quite anticlimactically, a suited gentleman sidled out, handed over the keys, muttered something along the lines of ‘enjoy’ with a cats got the cream grin on his face and walked off smiling. As I turned to weigh up my new motor for the week, I started scripting the trail of responses I would need to equip myself with to fend off the much-anticipated confrontation from friends, family and, most predictably, the girlfriend. Fully aware of the usual suspects that spill their pockets to own this car, I moderately low that is, and roll down the roof, slip the gears into sport mode and
out, by an environmental protest group near Knightsbridge – typical luck – and fully aware that my carbon footprint was doubling by the second, I took the nearest turning and drove on by. I regained my composure on reaching a very tempting open-stretch of road just before the M25, at which point I swiftly knocked the breath out of myself again as I racked the accelerator up to a more suitable speed.
“THE NEW V8 4.0 LITRE 8 SPEED GEARBOX ENGINE MAKES THE OLD 12-CYLENDER 6.0 LITRE MONSTER SEEM LIKE AN EMBARRASSING MISTAKE” Unfortunately the weather turned on me. As you’ll be fully aware, driving in snow with no roof is about as much fun as swapping a loofah for a Brillo pad. I swapped the roof back on and as satisfaction hit me so did the realisation that this car has the potential to play a two-part act. In it, you can be a loud, outrageous racer, screeching your way around corners and heckling onlookers or dress yourself head-to-toe in tweed, and drive around in absolute bliss with the built-in massager and state-of-the-art Naim sound system listening to Sebastian Bach.
Time to review the power behind the engine: the new V8 4.0 litre 8 speed gearbox engine makes the old 12-cylinder 6.0 litre monster seem like an embarrassing mistake. I’m not heralding it as fuel in fact, so far is it removed from both of these, that it’ll without fail drain your wallet miles. It also instills in you a new tendency towards heckling at onlookers in the street. With the strength this machine delivers, you are likely to arrive at your destination with white knuckles and a face that looks like it’s been morphed. The four-wheel drive system does, I must add, make a lot of sense as the car drove perfectly balanced. I had expected some serious under steer from the weight, either this or over steer from the power, but you get neither; just the option to take it out all over again when the urge comes. In short, this car serves many purposes; it can shock should you wish it to, move like a beast, induce serious whiplash if that’s how you measure power, but, above all, it can motivate, yes, motivate any four-wheel fanatic who catches sight of it, to get to the point – and it’s one hell of a hefty point - where they can afford to spill their own pockets. Get to that point fast because this car is, in one simple word, aspirational.
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RIVALS Audi RS 5 Cabriolet Starting from £68,960 Engine: 4163cc, V8 444bhp @ 8250rpm 17lb ft @ 4000-6000rpm 0 - 60mph: 4.9sec (claimed 0-62) 174mph (optional, limited)
Aston Martin DBS Volante Starting from £167,851 Engine: V12, 5935cc 510bhp @ 6500rpm 420lb ft @ 5750rpm 191mph (limited) 0-60mph: 4.3sec (claimed)
Mercedes-Benz CL600 Coupe Starting from £106,531 Engine: 5.5L biturbo V-12 510 hp @ 5,000 rpm 0 - 60mph: 4.5 sec 160mph
head to toe in tweed, and drive around in the built in massage, seat warmers and stunning Naim sound system listening to Sebastian Bach” 74 | Spring 2013 r www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk
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NICHOLAS WAINWRIGHT THE INTERVIEW
Top quality customer service is also vital for us. Every business tries to offer this, but in reality it is often easier said than done. At Boodles our mission statement is ‘unparalleled standards of customer service’- and I believe this is what we really do offer. We like to get to know our customers and we will go over and above the course of duty to make them feel valued and relaxed.
Tell us about Boodles’ History?
Boodles or ‘Boodle & Dunthorne’, as we were originally named, was established in 1798 in the prosperous city of Liverpool. My family bought Boodles in 1910 and Wainwright’s to have been at the forefront of the company. We have been joined in recent years by Jody (my son) and James (Michael and I’s nephew). Boodles was always a top quality county
Finally, we are a British family owned company operating from the undisputed capital city of the world, London. This is a magnetic draw for so many international buyers and having our two main London stores wonderfully positioned at the heart of Bond Street and Sloane Street is a great advantage. Britain is a wonderful place to be and we are immensely proud of our heritage.
jewellery, antiques, silver, clocks and many of the top Swiss watches, but in the mid-1990s we decided to specialise in and focus on designing and making our own
You are very much a family business, how important is this to the brand?
We believe that this is a very important aspect of the company and also an incredibly rare attribute. When most successful family businesses develop into a ‘brand’, often the family decides to sell out to large corporations; in the case of jewellers Richemont or LVMH. Alternatively many family businesses end up disappearing all together- but we are Michael, Jody, James and I all share the same dream and wish passionately for Boodles to remain as a privately owned family business and have no intention of introducing a third party. All Boodles directors are heavily involved in every aspect of the company and we will continue to build our brand in this way, customers; it is this that we feel makes Boodles unique and unlike many of our competitors.
What are Boodles’ USP’s and how do you stand-out from the competition?
designed jewellery. The product must it is not up to the mark, customers won’t buy it and one might as well pack up and go home.
“AT BOODLES OUR MISSION STATEMENT IS ‘UNPARALLELED STANDARDS OF CUSTOMER SERVICE’AND I BELIEVE THIS IS WHAT WE REALLY DO OFFER”
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What was life like growing up as a child and were you always destined to take over the company?
I enjoyed my school life at Shrewsbury enormously but am rather ashamed to admit that sports and my social life came ahead of academic achievements. My father never pressured me into joining the family business but that was generally expected of the eldest son in the late 1960’s. After training in Geneva, London and New York I threw myself into the business. I found that I had a great passion and I have always worked hard to make Boodles one of the more serious players in the jewellery industry. I am extremely fortunate to have worked in a business I love so much for over 40 years.
THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL Describe the Boodles customer and how has their profile changed over the years?
Our customers have changed over the years mainly, because we now only watch brand in the world, Patek Philippe. Looking back it is unfortunate that on our journey we may have lost some of our traditional customers who once bought silver or clocks from us, but we now are trying to focus on the very best of British designed jewellery. It is imperative for every company that the focus is on what they do best and what they think their customer will appreciate the most rather than trying to be all things to all people. customer’ although I am pleased to say that a large number of our clients are longstanding friends of the company; when buying their engagement ring. We have also become very popular with high earning professional women, who can afford to buy their own jewellery, couples in their 50’s or over, who perhaps have more disposable income than before and oversees customers; Due to our positioning within some of London’s most reputable areas, foreign customers now account for approximately 23% of our business, which really is the icing on the What is the most extravagant piece of jewellery Boodles has sold?
In the past 12 months we have sold a which was fantastic. Acquiring a stone like this is exciting in itself, selling it is another story.
shops by Eva Jiricna have given us a strong identity; An ambitious advertising campaign for a company of our size and also a very active PR department. We also like to entertain our customers, encouraging them to become friends of Boodles rather than just plain customers. The competition is tough, but we have managed to increase our sales and also our years so we must be doing something In your view, where do you see the luxury goods industry going in the next decade?
sector in general, but in the jewellery industry alone I see continued growth. This can be highlighted through the number of fashion houses, Dior, Chanel, Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Prada to name a few, that have expanded into the world of
“I FIND IT DIFFICULT TO RELAX, BUT I DO ENJOY PLAYING GOLF AND GAME SHOOTING; THERE IS NOTHING LIKE A DAY OUT IN THE FRESH AIR TO CLEAR THE MIND” What characteristics do you look for in someone when doing business with them?
Following the launch of our beautiful Wonderland collection we also sold three suites to one customer. These pieces were created as future heirlooms to be passed on through generations therefore it gives me enormous pleasure to think of the story that they will become a part of.
jewellery we naturally insist on honesty and integrity. We all enjoy a sense of fun and really, really try to enjoy the experience of buying diamonds or even better, selling them. Top quality service is also paramount as is a highly professional business ethic.
How has Boodles coped during the recession, has the business been affected?
What three elements in your view make a brand successful?
Well . . . we all know that the recession is here but at Boodles we have weathered it well. We try to tick every single box to make the company a true success. Not only with our beautiful jewellery but with well-trained, knowledgeable staff and managers who are all great ambassadors for the company. Beautifully designed
Most importantly, it is crucial that the people behind a brand are totally committed and deliver on every single promise. Secondly, to offer a superior and unique experience to every single individual who encounters the brand and lastly, individuality – at Boodles we love to do our own thing and have never
contemplated cloning any other jeweller or even more so, their designs. Where do you see Boodles going in the future?
I am 64 years old and still working pretty hard, my brother Michael is 55 and is one of the best and most highly regarded businessmen I have ever met. We then have Jody and James, both in their mid30s who are now Directors of Boodles. Carrying on a family business from one generation to another is never easy, but I believe Boodles is in a good a position as any to do this. Each generation of Wainwright’s has wanted to pass over the company in better shape than when they started and I strongly believe that ethos will continue for years to come. How do you switch off from business, where do you go to relax?
playing golf and game shooting; there is nothing like a day out in the fresh air to clear the mind. Visiting lovely hotel’s or experiencing great restaurants are rather fun but the most important thing to me is my lovely large family. I have a beautiful wife, four children aged from 38 down to 5, and nine grandchildren; They are not exactly relaxing but they are so important to me. Boodles gets involved in a number of charities, how important do you think it is for brands to give back?
Extremely important and ‘giving back’ is very high on Boodles’ agenda. We offer members’ charity of choice and also sponsor many local charities. The Boodles directors also have our own individual charities that we like to support. Michael chairs the fundraising committee of the Rainbow Trust, James and Jody have too many charities to mention, but in particular Jody supports the Hakani project in Brazil and Only Connect in London and James organises the Boodles Boxing Ball in aid of the children’s charity Starlight. I am president of a Christian orphanage, south of Chennai in India and raise considerable sums to help over 1,000 little children. For us, helping those that are in trouble or
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TRAVEL
GRAND-HOTEL du Cap-Ferrat “Plage Right In!” -
I
f you want to live like a billionaire, even just for a day, or maybe, if you’re lucky, a weekend, then it goes without questioning that you simply must check into the Grand Hotel du Cap Ferrat in the Cote d’Azur. Perfectly named, it is indeed all about life’s grand occasions; grand romance, grand views and grand service. Settled down in the grounds ordering a Campari and orange that comes with transported back in time. At once, you are on the set of the Hollywood classic, High Society, and your very presence in that moment is synonymous with a timeless, classic
NICE
DU CAP FERRAT
When booking a room, you might want society. Landing by private jet into Nice you’re Cote d’Azur savvy enough to know to rent a convertible of the Ferrari or vintage Mercedes variety to go impeccably with your partner’s Hermés scarf and Grace Kelly oeuvre. Located on a peninsula between Nice and Monte Carlo the hotel boasts some of the best views across the whole of the Mediterranean coastline, gushes out onto the view. In fact, the pool has been admired by many a prestigious guest as one of the most spectacular seats on the planet.
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each with their own private pool. Then are of course a further sixteen sea-view suites all with their own terraces enticing you to plage* right in. One thing’s for certain, you’ll never want to leave the myriad of enticements that spread out across the acres of landscaped gardens. With the South of France on your door-step you will however have to tear yourself away from a Cabana at the hotel’s Club Dauphin. Sunglasses at the ready it is time take your place on your own private Sportmer Cigarette speedboat heading for Le Club 55 in St Tropez. Start craving that ice
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cold board of crisp crudité coming your way. After an afternoon on the beach capturing mental snapshots of the stars you make your way back to Cap Ferrat in time for dinner under the pines at Le Cap. Caviar and baby leeks is a delectable
AFTER AN AFTERNOON ON THE BEACH ALONGSIDE BEYONCE AND JAY-Z YOU CAN ZOOM BACK TO YOUR PALACE IN CAP FERRAT IN TIME FOR DINNER UNDER THE PINES AT LE CAP accompaniment to the view and a chilly Puligny Montrachet. Oenophile’s may just want to take a jaunt into the beautiful St Paul de Vence for a visit to Le Petite Cave de Saint Paul. Steep steps take you down into a cellar that dates from the 14th century and houses treasures like the rare Le Clos Saint Paul which has only seven acres of vineyard.
No visit to this spectacular village would be complete without lunch or dinner at La Colombe d’Or. Its authenticity is not about perfection, but genuine hospitality Simone Signoret and Yves Montand moment and book the table they sat at each time they visited to dine amongst works by Picasso, Matisse, Léger, Miró, and Braque. Make sure you start with the hors d’ouvres de la Colombe d’Or and be Marnier for dessert. If you lunched in St Paul de Vence and have been inspired by the art, drop by the Foundation Maeght and pick up an original lithograph by Chagall. Jean Luc will be waiting at the bar back at the Hotel du Cap to revive you for dinner with an icy to the evening’s live, local music. If lashings of foie gras and macaroons are appearing over the waist of your Harry Elliot swim shorts then you might want to rise early for a jog along the path that winds along the shoreline. Sea air before breakfast is just the trick. Alternatively,
you might even want to improve your swimming skills with Pierre Gruneberg who has been teaching in the Club Dauphin pool since 1950. He comes highly recommended; Charlie Chaplin’s children owe their lagoon prowess to Pierre as do many others. When home beckons you back, it’s worth heading out early enough before your hear you say? Indeed, and make a lunch reservation memorable at La Petite Maison. If you can negotiate the slightly service team, you’ll realise it is worth the drama and hype. The succulent roast chicken with just right crispy skin is poulet perfection and that’s before you’ve dabbled in the fresh peaches served on ice with crème fraiche. Quietly packed with stars it doesn’t need any Michelin ones. The Grand Hotel du Cap Ferrat and the Cote d’Azur is the place that provides the ultimate mega-stylish sojourn. Don’t join the throng though, jet-set the pace and bring the golden age of glamour back to summer.
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NANTUCKET F **K IT LET’S GO TO NANTUCKET - BY MARTIN TURNER
Y
ou can’t envisage a vintage East Coast American summer without thinking of Cape Cod and sunkissed, gorgeous young things lounging around the parameter of the pool draped in Ralph Lauren. As it so goes, in 1974, Ralph Lauren designed the costumes for a called, none other than, The Great Gatsby. It is no surprise, with Baz Lurhman’s premiere worldwide, that Ralph ripped a literal page from his 1974 design book for his S/S 2013 collection. What better suited setting for this classic American look than the beautiful island of Nantucket?
the ten minute journey to their summer nesting homes off Cliff Road. Meanwhile, recession busters arrive by Delta and JetBlue and saunter off in Subarus to shingle-roofed homes dotted along Nantucket’s long, dune-fringed beaches. Housing friends for a week, make it a month, in the summer is just the recipe for a classic American vacation that both Fitzgerald and Lauren would undoubtedly approve of. Gather all whom you know and love and make like a local by renting a home
names like Gulfstream, Falcon, Hawker and Citation glide onto the island with only numbers to distinguish their tail feathers. On landing, their chicks scurry excitedly into self-driven 4X4’s to take
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from The Maury People from Sotheby’s International Reality. If grocery shopping and barbequing on deck with billionaires is not your thing, then look straight to Nantucket Island Resorts for rooms, suites and cottages hosting exquisite, modern, nautical themed interiors that echo Nancy From the Wauwinet Inn to the White Elephant, their sumptuous interiors offer supreme comfort with state-of-the-art panache. Whether you are a house guest, in the right uniform you’ll move easily Nantucket is not about ubiquitous MTV feel. The main centre reminisces stepping back in time onto the cobbled streets and brick paved sidewalks of old movie sets and are, be warned, far from being suitable for Louboutins. Stick to a sporty pair of
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Sperrys and pair with Nantucket Reds from Murray’s Toggery and you’re set to browse Mitchell’s Book Corner to pick up a copy of – you guessed it – on your way into Island Lore. A faded polo shirt and linen shorts are de rigour for browsing Saturday’s island market which stretches two blocks and is teeming with produce from local farmers and artisans. Beach-side brunch at the Summer House in Siasconset Village is the way to enjoy the island’s most civilised spot, especially under the colourful umbrellas at the Beachside Bistro where poached absent-mindedly at their iPhones and french fries. Next, grab a beach permit from the police station and head off in your 4X4 for Smith’s and Eel Points on the west side of the island for some beach action. Even in peak season you can rise at dawn for a costal walk to watch the seals bobbing off the shore break, or spot a deer riding the dunes and have the entire experience to yourself. By bicycle is the way to navigate the island and Island Bike is who to call. They’ll even deliver to your house giving new meaning to the word bespoke. Next, you’ll want to head out to mingle and dine. Reservations on Nantucket are as essential as swim wear and sunglasses. Start the evening with sunset drinks at Millie’s where owners
Bo Blair and David Scriber serve up Whale’s Tale Pale Ale from the island’s very own Cisco brewery. Does roasted mushroom and sage bisque with parsnip blue cheese ravioli and hazelnut oil take your fancy? If so, Dune is your call of port and the patio is the place to be. You can’t miss Corazon del Mar for ceviche, tacos and tequila, or a date with those gastronomic gals, Black Eyed Susan’s and Lola 41. For a romantic liaison, head for the ivy covered Chanticleer where a French inspired menu and an entirely Gallic wine list will carry you both through the night. If your eyes are on the lookout for the beautiful young things we talked about earlier then make your way to the back room of Galley Beach for a pomegranate martini, or maybe just an icewill be spotted lounging languorously on the sofas along the sand where you’re bound to score a summer kiss and an invite to a beach house party. If you want another option, take a short taxi ride to Chicken Box near the town where the blue bloods boogie around hot, twenty-something restaurant staff till sunrise. Take it from us; Nantucket is America’s answer to any St. in Europe, whether it is Tropes or Bart’s. Perennially classic, it never fails to please. Knowing our travel secrets is your passport to summery beach-side bliss.
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MONACO Grand prix
2013
M
onaco is perhaps the most glamorous country in the world and it’s not hard to see why. With just a 1
wealth and Grace Kelly, where it’s all about sun, sea and partying. In May, Monaco hosts the most talked about race in the Formula 1 calender, a race that pre dates the championship itself, the Monaco Grand Prix. The drivers say that a win in Monaco is worth two wins anywhere else. Despite being the slowest track in terms of top speeds, it is considered one of the most challenging and dangerous circuits in the championship due to its tight corners and lack of over-taking room. In the past it has produced some of the most unexpected results making it one of the most exciting races of the season to watch.
Whilst an exciting race, it is off the track where the real fun begins, and chartering a yacht is the way to do it in style. One businessman who has chartered each year since 2005 told us he has created more business during these four days then anywhere else. When we ask why, he said “simple, it’s the best form of networking you can imagine, with the lunches, dinners and yacht parties you meet a huge amount of people that is often translated into business when back in London.” With all these things, it’s about knowing which berth and which yacht to take. Below are three of the top yachts available for the 2013 Monaco Grand Prix. Book now and you’ll be everyone’s best friend.
Polar Star has to be one of the top charter yachts for the Monaco GP, simply due to the sheer height and numerous decks, she has a vast amount of deck space and a sun deck which can be used for entertaining up to 100 guests when in the port. With her 17 crew making sure your every whim is taken care of.
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M/Y Idol is one of the most functional charter yachts on the market. Again boasting a vast sun deck for entertaining, it also makes for a perfect viewing platform for the race. She has a 14 strong experienced crew.
much larger than her size due to a innovative layout. She has a more than capable crew to look after your every need.
Masters. They are a bespoke charter brokerage with many years of experience, who pride themselves on their personal service and are able to cater to every detail. NOTE: All yachts above are subject to availability and are all currently available for the Monaco
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The
Golden Years Of the Glorious Grace oF hollywood in the 20’s, 30’s and 40’s
T
he roaring lion of MetroGoldwyn-Mayer is perhaps one of
last 100 years, but where did it all begin? The Golden Years of Hollywood is an age littered with an abundance of larger than life characters that gave Tinsel-Town its reputation. Does the Hollywood of today hold even an ounce of the glamour it did from the 20’s to the 60’s? What stories lie behind the screen and which characters gave Hollywood its everlasting twinkle?
big studios, big Films, big bucKs: By the 1920’s, Hollywood had become industry and the neighbourhood’s eternal reputation began to be set in stone. The
was constructed with the help of the ‘big RKO Pictures, Paramount Pictures, Warner in 1927) and of course, Metro-GoldwynMayer. From its inception Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer brought America’s audiences the glamour and sophistication they deeply craved. Stars were born and audiences were gripped by the emergence of the great performance feats churned out by the studio. The biggest directors and actors have all been associated with MGM to varying degrees over the last century; the list of the great
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founded the company, it was Louis B. Mayer that was the driving force behind MGM’s success and if any one person is the patriarch of the Golden Era, it’s Mayer at MGM. Under his stewardship, MGM became one of the largest studios in the world and it has undoubtedly remained the most well known. Joan Crawford, Robert Montgomery, Clark Gable, Vivien Leigh, Judy Garland, Gene Kelly and Frank Sinatra are just a sprinkling of stars that rode the MGM train through the Golden Era. Mayer has even been given credit for
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Hollywood the Academy Awards and creating the ‘star system,’ an illusion that Hollywood debatably still nurtures today. The ‘star system’ was a process by which studios would ‘create’ stars by presenting them with appropriate backgrounds and personalities that they believed the public would warm to. Cary Grant is often cited as a product of the ‘star system’ but the pitch must have been right, as the audiences loved him. The grasp of studios even extended to covering up actors and actresses drug or alcohol abuse, so as not to sway the public’s high regard for them. Thanks to the big studios, Hollywood’s dark side was buried beneath a thick veneer of glamour and on screen success.
In 1935, MGM signed the great Judy Garland and propelled her across the screens for much of the 40’s. Films that hoarded great critical success didn’t always with The Wizard of Oz in 1939. Garland year on a high note with the unequivocal success of Gone with the Wind starring Vivien Leigh.
work of one William Fox, an extremely talented producer and businessman. In 1915 he founded Fox Film Corporation although known today as 20th Century Fox having merged with Twentieth Century Pictures in 1935. As Co-CEO, Fox oversaw the grand creation of Fox Theatres, often referred to as ‘movie palaces’ due to their extravagant architecture and gargantuan size.
The Fox Film Corporation was In the Golden Era, Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer predominantly a movie theatre company was unmistakably a hit factory and the as Fox’s focus was entrepreneurial, rather golden thread of Hollywood’s rich tapestry. role in Hollywood was indisputable. The Hollywood’s creation as the land of milk and honey was also in part down to the the extraordinary productions that were www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk r Spring 2013
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conceived by the studios. Today it remains in form as 20th Century Fox and a part of Rupert Murdoch’s News Corporation.
Robert Evans quite literally walked in front of a camera and sparked the fuse for his explosive climb to the top of Hollywood, culminating in the top job at Paramount
cinematic history, King Kong (1933) and Citizen Kane (1941) came from one studio, RKO pictures. Founded in 1928 by David Sarnoff, RKO was also well known for its The original Hollywood sign before the landslide musicals. Most notably Roberta (1933), Top Hat (1935) and Follow the Fleet (1936), Such a sense of occasion is hard to fathom all of which starred the unquestionably for the moviegoers of today, but the talented Fred Astaire. 1946 was to be its Golden Era of Hollywood was grand in ways that have been lost through time. short lived. In 1948, Howard Hughes, the notorious eccentric and aviation magnate, the producer is King acquired RKO pictures. Over the course Producers put the ‘business’ in ‘the movie of Hughes’ management, productions business’ and nobody tells the stories of Hollywood better than a veteran producer. The stereotype of a Hollywood producer was to be the beginning of the end for RKO pictures and after 7 traumatic years, and Rubber Company. Another of Hollywood’s epic studios was Paramount Pictures. It derived from the Famous Players Film Company and The Lasky Company. After a series of mergers (sometimes involving three companies) and a state of receivership, Paramount took its present name in 1936. One man rode out the entire process; Hungarian in 1959 was only after a career shaping some of the most well known productions in Hollywood history. The 1933 RomCom She Done Him Wrong and the 1935 creation of Popeye were both born at Paramount Pictures. One would be forgiven for thinking that the early years of Hollywood were as much about corporate strategy as they
one which is still intact today, despite Hollywood’s turbulent economic history. the grandeur: accompanied by a real sense of occasion when it came to viewing the studios’ most surprising is that going to the ‘Movie Theatre’ was a dressing up event. Dressing up was particularly prevalent in the era of where audiences would wear dinner suits or ball gowns to an evening at the pictures.
far from the truth for Darryl F. Zanuck. Having entered Hollywood against his family’s wishes, Zanuck worked his way from screenwriter to head of production at Warner Brothers in 1931. He remained in the role for just 3 years before starting 20th Century Films with William Goetz and Joseph Schenck (who would later kick start Marilyn Monroe’s career). Zanuck Green Was My Valley (1941), Gentleman’s Agreement (1947), and All About Eve (1950).
producers of the century and wrote many book. He knew exactly how the minds of the stars worked and this is best illustrated Rosemary’s Baby (1968), despite husband Frank Sinatra’s threat of divorce if she stayed. Indeed, Sinatra was a man of his word and served the divorce papers on set in front of the cast and crew. “i’m ready For my close up mr demille” part by the actors and actresses who starred Garland and Gloria Swanson are names that won’t soon be forgotten, as they epitomised what a star truly is; glamorous, the public’s interest in the stars lives and arguably led to the birth of the ‘celebrity.’ Audiences craved to know about the people who shone through their screens and photographers delivered the exploits by the bucket to gossip columnists. The world cites many actresses and actors, as ‘sex symbols’ but Jean Harlow may
At 6757 Hollywood Boulevard (Hollywood of Joseph Schneck (Darryl’s buisness was known for his ambition and received Marcus Loew bought an amusement park from him and his brother, Nick. Loew then went on to make them partners in his movie theatre chain, Consolidated Enterprises. The Hollywood bug quickly infected Joseph and his fascination with the industry enticed him to the West Coast. Upon moving to California, he quickly became president of the United Artists
fatale known for her platinum blonde hair and alluring smile, she was the actress of the 1930’s. She was well known for her romantic comedies, particularly Platinum Blonde (1931) and Three Wise Girls (1932). MGM recognised her superstar
Century Fox where he was known for his hard line with the militant Unions, only to eventually descend into troubled waters in relation to a Union pay-off. In one fell swoop he ended up serving jail time for his actions but thanks to a presidential pardon, he was soon back at the helm of the great industry was even recognised in 1952 with an exceptional Academy Award.
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Darryl - The archetypal movie producer
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Charlie Chaplin fred Astaire
Paramount Studios entrance
Samuel Goldwyn Studios
Dressing up to go see the pictures
bob Evans
Doing deals on the phone
louis b Mayer
MGM Studios Steve McQueen
fred Astaire & Ginger Rogers
Alfred Hitchcock
R.k.O. Studios
bob Evans
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Charlie Chaplin
Man (1933) and Red Dust (1932) so they
possessing such attributes. Mr. Smith Goes To Washington (1939) saw Stewart
Clark Gable, completing six in total. Awards and received great critical acclaim, Hollywood nurtured the idea that no matter where you came from, or how humble your upbringing, anyone could become a star. Rita Hayworth believed in the dream, born in Brooklyn and the career on the horizon. It was her Father who brought the family to Hollywood believing that dance could have a large role dancing went out of fashion and he lost much of his wealth during the Great Depression. Rita’s ambition never faltered Cruz Diablo (1934) aged just 16. She had great success later on in her career with Kelly and Every Night (1945). Her dancing
come from a Military family and feeling obligated to do his part, his career was interrupted by the onset of war in which he served his country as an Air Force pilot. He continued onto post-war success with the Frank Capra production It’s a Wonderful Life (1946); A performance so extraordinary that Harry S Truman commended it by saying “If Bess and I had a son, we’d want him to be just like James Stewart.” Evidently, his broad appeal reached every enclave of society. No history of Hollywood would be complete without at least a mention of the cultural icon, global sex symbol and international superstar, Marilyn Monroe.
Darryl f. Zanuck
was brought to an abrupt end. On 5th August, 1962, Monroe was found dead at her home at just 36 years old. A glittering light on Hollywood’s grand stage had faded. decline and creativity: By 1963, the dominance of the studios had declined and audiences were instead captured by television. This was to mark the birth of a new Hollywood and one that bears more resemblance to the Hollywood of today. Big studios were restrictive on creativity so without them, a new movement was born. Martin Scorsese, George Lucas, Denis Hopper and Jack Nicholson all emerged out of Hollywood’s new era. Films were no longer dictated by business strategy and directors were Stars such as Warren Beatty and Steve whilst great directors like John Sturges
hit from 1944 to 1946. Three consecutive stardom status forever. Stars were not just leading ladies of course; the gentlemen were just as prominent. Humphrey Bogart endured nearly 30 years of Hollywood and was always considered something of a style icon. Women fawned over the allure of his distinctive voice in Casablanca (1942) and men admired his regimented attention to detail when it came to his appearance. Bogart was also known for his heavy drinking, which only increased his interest to the public and his regular sailing trips around Catalina Island advanced his reputation as a solitary man. His on screen persona was something of a world-weary and jaded exile, a persona he adopted in reality towards the end of his career on the big screen. The longest careers were usually correlated with the actor’s distinctive characteristics. Audiences loved familiar voices and line between actor and movie star. James Stewart was an actor well known for
The Seven-Year Itch (1955) and her Golden Globe winning performance in Some Like It Hot (1959); all are familiar names to movie buffs and laymen alike. Despite starting her career in 1945, it wasn’t until 1952 that she began to score and although she was recognised by many in the industry as a star, it was only later that she received critical acclaim from the interspersed with Playboy shoots and a tornado of public appearances. She held an public and her iconic status seems to show no sign of slowing even today. Her private life was as much part of her image as her movie roles. Her three marriages, alleged affairs with Kennedys and two miscarriages provided ample fuel her blonde hair and feminine persona, journalists adored her glamorous lifestyle but both perpetuated the Hollywood dream. Like many Hollywood dreams, it
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in Cinematic history. The Great Escape (1963) and The Thomas Crown Affair (1968) both came out of the 60’s and are testament to McQueen’s acting ability and anti-hero persona. The demise of studio style production marked the beginning of a new era of creative freedom and cinematic innovation, an era that bears far more resemblance to the Hollywood of today. The Golden Era of Hollywood was a dream factory and the Hollywood of the present remains true to that term. The illusion that anyone, from anywhere can become a star and dominate the big screen continues to sparkle today. The web of corporate takeovers, larger than life producers and temperamental stars. The business of the studio system, rise of celebrity culture and panache of the indeed. It all began in a great era, a glamorous era, and whilst the characters may change, the foundation upon which Hollywood was built, will remain forever. by robert gWyther
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NINA
CAMPBELL
A FEW OF MY FAVOURITE THINGS ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST RESPECTED AND INFLUENTIAL INTERIOR DESIGNERS
oPtic chaMPaGne Bucket
My daughter Ria has done a collection for the lacquer company. The ice bucket is a particular favourite as it is modelled on a vintage yellow ice bucket I have had forever. The little trays are wonderful too. £2500
This is part of our latest Optic Glass range. We have had our glass collection for a few years now and this can be used as a vase as well. I like things having lots of uses. £95 ninacampbell.com
Pretty much anything from Guinevere, the most incredible antique emporium. I have been shopping there as long as I can remember and they have the most beautiful pieces. I can rarely go there without resisting something.
Michael eden sculPture This is a fairly new discovery for me, I bought one from Adrian Sassoon’s gallery. It is the most vibrant magenta colour and I absolutely love it. I have a new love of sculpture and this a wonderful addition to my house. £POA
£POA guinevere.com
tyson Bennison squiGGly Bottles
arthur laMP taBle
I have a collection of these at home in wonderful colours. And they are so striking in different sizes when placed together. Tyson has lots of wonderful pieces in his showroom and fantastic lighting but these are my favourites. His sister Bianca is a wonderful artist too and I have a couple of her paintings. £POA
This is part of my own metal furniture collection. It is a contemporary standard lamp on a glass base. It is so versatile and I have used it a lot in decorating jobs. £POA ninacampbell.com
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FOR HER
Stella Mccartney Faux Patent-Leather and Cork Wedge Sandals. £385. net-a-porter.com. La Prairie Caviar Cristal, Limited Edition Set. laprairie.com. Herve Van Der Straeten Hammered 24-karat gold-plated cuff. £425. net-a-porter.com. Anya Hindmarch Georgiana Zip Top Clutch. £450. anyahindmarch.com. Mui Mui Flower Flower Clip Earrings. £270. muimui.com. Bobbi Brown Sparkle Eye Shadow Gold Star. £20. harrods.com. Elemental Herbology Detox bath oil. £20. elementalherbology.com. Matthew Williamson Silk Thread Tailoring Tuck Dress. £795. matthewilliamson.com.
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Boodles Vintage Sapphire and Diamond Heart Pendant Necklace. £22,660. boodles.com. Monica Vinader Siren Wide Band. £140. monicavinader.com. Hermes Collier de Chien Gold Bracelet. £5,180. uk.hermes.com. Audemars Piguet, The Royal Oak, Self Winding, Sapphire. audemarspiguet.com. Charlotte Olympia Polly Calf Hair Leather Pumps. £740. net-a-porter.com. Tory Burch Printed Hardshell Case For iPhone 4. £40. toryburch.co.uk. Thomas Lyte Audrey handbag. £695. thomaslyte.com. Peridot Wilton Jacket. £560. peridotlondon.com. www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk r Spring 2013
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5
STEPS.............TO THE PERFECT POLO PLAYER by garth KanigoWsKi Polo enthusiast, 1 Goal Patron, Founding Member of The Cape Town Polo Club and Supporter of The Gentleman’s Journal.
To some, it may seem that to play polo, or indeed to be a good polo player all you need is long hair, the ability to swish back some champers and have an anyone who knows anything about the King of Games, knows that all this could not
Most people who are in the sport are there for the love of horses and the game, have made a lifestyle choice and are
starting polo, trying to improve their game or to be the perfect polo player
THE
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3: 1:
Horse Riding Ability
All too often you see polo players bumping along, pulling on the pony’s mouth instructions. We tend to focus so much on the stick and ball aspect (generally only 5 % of ones game is spent on the ball) when in fact being a good rider is far more important. Comparing those players that have entered the game from other riding disciplines to the ‘new to horse riding player’ and you will notice how much easier it is for those with riding ability. The polo pony
Keeping a Cool Head
In a contact sport like polo, it is so easy to get riled up by an opponent, a badly behaving pony or simple frustrations. Being able to keep a cool head is imperative. Look at the best players in the world (ignoring their appealing or pretending to be injured) and you will see that they remain calm “quick to the ball, slow on the ball”. Always knowing where the other 7 players are is very important. Quick pony changes and effective communication with fellow players is also important. None of these things can
4:
CONTRIBUTES
Physicality
understand certain commands. A good rider knows how to execute those commands whilst a bad rider does not, therefore confusing the pony and creating a tough time all round. So, put down your mallets and get some more riding lessons.
If you were to line up the 10 best polo players in the world you will notice a common theme, they are all relatively slim, agile and in good physical shape. High goal teams employ trainers, physios and yoga teachers these days. Why? Simply because it gives you a competitive edge. Are there 2: Having The Right Ponies exceptions? Yes of course as in all sports. But it’s a lot easier to hook sticks, ride off It is widely agreed that the polo pony is the and be out of the saddle if you don’t have half a cow around your waist. Being in good say that the pony contributes 75% to the shape with good core body strength also game and the player only 25%. Speak to makes it easier on your ponies. It also adds any professional and they will tell you that to keeping a cool head as you have less to generally the difference from an 8 goaler and contend with. So, put down that pie and a 10 goaler is ponies. However, when starting head to the gym as this is polo, not snooker. out it is vital that one matches one’s ability to the right pony. There is no point trying to 5 : jump into a Ferrari if you don’t know how A Competitive Nature goaler needs a ‘Steady Eddie’ of a pony and not a high goal pony. As one progresses in the sport then so should the abilities of your ponies. So don’t get side tracked with the desire of owning the best but rather concentrate on having the appropriate level pony.
THE PONY
This is a hugely competitive sport with lots of different types of people playing and an equal number of egos to deal with too. If you are not a competitive type then being the perfect player or just trying to be good at polo is not going to be possible. However, this is not to be confused with an aggressive nature. There are so many different aspects to the game, one has to really want win to get there. If you just want to ‘take part and
75% TO THE GAME AND THE
PLAYER ONLY
25%
come on down. However, if you want to succeed and take home the silverware, then you need to have a competitive nature.
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5
STEPS.............TO THE PERFECT TENNIS SERVE
1:
Adopt Your Position
Have your front foot at an angle but have your back foot running approximately parallel to the baseline. This will, quite naturally, place you sideways on to the court. Your aim is to put the tennis ball into the service box diagonally opposite. If you’re new to the game just aim for the middle of the box.
2:
Prepare Your Grip
The correct grip for the serve is the chopper grip, named this way because it’s how you’d hold an axe for chopping. Just hold your tennis racket as if it were an axe. The V of the left of the top of the grip.
3:
Position The Racket
Simply point your tennis racket forwards to the target. Use your other hand to balance, by lightly supporting the throat of the racket. Bring your tennis racket back into a throwing position, angling your body away from the court. Your weight will naturally shift onto your back foot.
4:
The Ball Toss
At the same time as you draw back your racket, your other arm prepares to release the ball. Your left hand, if you’re right-handed, moves up with the ball. Tip: Keep your left arm straight. Don’t bend at the elbow. The motion of your arm upwards, kept straight, will power the ball. Try to feel a smooth, co-ordinated action…both arms moving together.
5:
Swing And Follow Through
As the tennis ball reaches its highest point, accelerate the racket head at the ball in a throwing action. Tip: Reach up to hit the ball – the higher you make contact the more power you can generate. Follow through across your body then recover quickly ready for your next shot.
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WHAT TO WEAR TENNIS wiMBledon Men’s headBand - PurPle/ Green £5.00 shoP.wiMBledon.coM
wiMBledon twinPack wristBands - PurPle/ Green £6.00 shoP.wiMBledon.coM wiMBledon Mens Guest towel - Green £14 shoP.wiMBledon.coM
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wilson us oPen tennis Balls £10.79 adidas resPonse essence £77 adidas.co.uk
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Single Estate Spirits
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Boss & Co Boss & Co was established in London in 1812 by Thomas Boss and is widely regarded as one of the world’s premier gunmakers. Thomas Boss began his gunmaking apprenticeship working under “the great master”, his father William Boss, whose gunmaking can be traced back to 1773, when he himself was a gunmaking apprentice in Birmingham. William Boss eventually moved back to London to work for Joseph Manton, who was the most respected gun maker of the time.
W
hen Thomas Boss completed his apprenticeship in 1812, he set up business at the prestigious address of 73 St James’ Street, right in the heart of what is known as “club land” due to the surrounding gentlemen’s clubs. In the very early days Thomas did most of his work for another renowned gunmaker of the day, James Purdey. Thomas began to produce his own gun under his name and It was not long until Boss & Co earned itself a reputation for Boss who derived the policy of “only producing one quality of gun, the best.” After Thomas Boss’s death the company was acquired by John Robertson in 1891. John Robertson was also a gunmaker who guns for various makers, including Boss & Co. It was not long until Robertson made his famous Boss & Co single trigger in 1894, and four years later the Boss & Co ejector in 1898, both revolutionary for the time. However it was the over and under gun produced in 1909 where his name would be forever cemented in gunmaking history, a design that is still widely produced today by a number of companies. When King George VI was asked if he had ever considered obtaining a Boss & Co, King George VI replied, “A Boss gun, bloody beautiful, but too bloody accolade that a brand wish for than this Royal approval.
In 1908 Boss & Co moved from St James’s Street to nearby Dover Street, then Albermarle Street in 1930, before returning back to Dover Street in 1982. Its factory then move to 16 Mount Street, where it still had a shop until 2008, before moving the entire business to a factory headquarters at Kew Bridge in West London to allow for more space. Despite facing tough times during the 1980’s and the fact that there was nearly 100 gunmakers in the early 1900’s, Boss & Co has survived on its ability to produce some of the best guns in the world. It is a brand that has built its reputation on quality and in turn word of mouth. Whilst other gun makers have more brand presence in the market today, Boss & Co guns has often been describe as the guns of choice for the people in the know.
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SOMERLEY
THE NEXT
GENERATION
All of us would like to sAy “home JAmes” And find ourselves being dropped off At An enormous stAtely pile of exquisite beAuty on the edge of the new forest nAtionAl pArk. if indeed you were speAking to JAmes, otherwise known As viscount somerton you would find yourself drAwing up to somerley house. this truly mAgnificent house designed by sAmuel wyAtt in 1750 wAs bought by the 2nd eArl of normAnton in 1825, And hAs remAined with the normAnton fAmily for five generAtions.
W
ith the river Avon meandering through the full length of the 7000 acre estate, the house and formal gardens are plonked down in the prime position to take in the glorious vista that is worthy of a Constable painting. On the south side of the house a classic Wyatt Colonnade of twelve Palladian columns frames the view of a garden that leads to the famous Triton fountain surrounded by lawns and herbaceous borders beyond. Step inside and you get a sense of the enormous privilege it is to reside in such a stately home. The Drawing Room features
Taking on the custody of such a treasure trove with its vast estate is no small responsibility, but James with his stylish good looks and modern thinking is approaching it all with commercial brilliance. The recipe for success is James’ careful approach to maintaining Somerley’s historical heritage while sustaining it with an intelligent and savvy commercial outlook. There is no lack of people with a deep interest in experiencing the ultimate in British country house hospitality, and Somerley delivers in spades on that imagination. It is no wonder it’s considered
Meissen sits gently on the hand carved mantle. The East Library is lined with the original Wyatt bookcases and houses a picture of The 1st Earl of Normanton, Archbishop of Dublin, above the marble of Normanton went on the traditional Grand Tour of Europe in the early 1800s, spectacular paintings, furniture and china. Additionally an 80-foot gallery was added to the house in 1850 to create room for the collection, which remains today. While also a very warm sense of Somerley being a home.
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Located an easy 90 minutes from London, its proximity is the perfect convenience for city dwellers to have a taste of one of the most impressive houses and estates in the UK. Somerley is perfect for a discreet and private business retreat, board meeting, wedding, or gathering of family and friends. It’s not every day you can say you slept in the same bedroom once occupied by Edward VII, or accepted a delectable canapé from a white-gloved butler in the and fresh roses evidence a home, and where dining on cuisine prepared by the private chef surrounded by art treasures by Reynolds is a genuine part of the magic.
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There are some people who glaze over when you mention a period drama, but they’ll likely snap to attention when they get an idea of the plethora of activities on tap. The 11 mile off-road course on the estate is attracting the most experienced off roaders including the British Army. Avon, trout & carp lakes, shooting, buggy riding, archery, tennis court, and swimming pool, guests are never short of something to do. Plans are afoot to expand the current shooting to include simulated clays that will be able to accommodate up to 120 guests. The estate played host to the World Sporting Championships in 2006 which attracted 700 of the best clay pigeon shooters from the US and UK. There are several days each season for guns to experience private shooting parties on the estate while experiencing the splendour of Somerley. The estate has come alive to the sounds of Shirley Bassey, Katherine Jenkins and Chris de Burgh and makes a perfect venue for outdoor concerts. James’s modern approach to managing the estate is evidenced by his keen desire to switch to alternative energies. Gourmet food and wine evenings are being planned to take place in the spectacular dining room. Dinner guests will also be encouraged to stay overnight in the house, which will likely draw erudite locals as well as oenophiles from the city. The annual Somerley Beer & Music Festival is a clear nod to how the estate doesn’t take itself too seriously demonstrating a diverse approach to commercial thinking. Two stages of the British Rally Championship and The Somerley Park International Horse Trials, along with the celebrated Craft and Garden Fair are just a few examples of the events that attract visitors. The Gentleman’s Journal can attest to the genuine warmth of this much-loved family home and the welcome all of its guests receive. James is clearly committed to a national treasure that deserves to be seen and experienced not just now, but for generations to come.
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PROPERTY
THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
A BUZZING PROPERTY MARKET
How the London market, its buyers, its sellers and the boroughs are changing... We hear from Alan Russell and others on what to expect.
T
he prime London property market has been one that has attracted a huge amount of interest internationally for many decades. Since Russell Simpson opened their doors, on hand experience of this unpredictable, albeit ever-ascending prime London property market, coupled with some periods of volatility, most memorably in the early 1990’s and the more recent this all pervading recession, which will be remembered for generations to come. However, our 35th year has greeted excitement. We, Russell Simpson, a family owned and run estate agency, sell and rent residential properties of all shapes and any size,
relief to the market and proved to be a catalyst, creating a surge for movement and investment.
London location. Over the past few years the London property market has seen a huge amount of change, with a worldwide economic downturn. However, whilst there has been international hardship, London property has been a market, which has proven to be a safe haven. More recently, in the lead up to Christmas we saw a lull with a quiet and anxious market whilst the buyers and owners held their breath in waiting for the fate of the Autumn Statement, which was presented by the government in December 2012. The Autumn Statement bought a sense of
Although many complain and criticise British politics, its effects on property, although not welcomed, have been comparatively painless in Britain when comparing to many other countries. This has resulted in this market securing itself as a ‘port in the storm’ to the international buyer, whilst many nations experience political and social uncertainty. The relative stability of British politics and economy has lead to those from less stable countries moving their money to London and in particular prime central London property. As a result, we have Egyptian buyers, with the Russian and Middle-Eastern buyers ever-present. Our focal point in London is very popular to a range of different buyers. Over the decades we have seen areas becoming more popular. However, with the individuality of each buyer and their personal wants and needs which each individual borough seems to cater for.
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The market since the turn of the and excitement, which has gathered momentum, with many of the properties that we have marketed achieving well over their asking prices. It would seem that the in prime London property at the moment. There is a buzz currently which we haven’t seen or experienced since would show this market is one that is a strong and reliable investment. By alan russell russell siMPson We spoke to various specialists at agents all across London about the change in the industry, these are their comments: Charlie Bubear, Savills Chelsea: “Over the past two years we’ve seen a lot of French and Italian investment buyers in Kensington and Chelsea, with budgets up to £1.5-2m. Over the past few months the French buyers in particular seem much less investment focused, with many more now buying homes. Also, budgets are higher in the £3-6m range.
THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
I’ve recently sold to an Italian couple who own two apartments in Milan but have taken the view that it’s better to put down roots in London and become property owners here.” “There is a long standing established Italian community in Chelsea. You only need to look at some of the local restaurants and delis to see how well Italians are catered for which makes it an obvious destination for those relocating. Chelsea is a familiar London address for Italians and there was a big surge in 2009 after Berlusconi’s tax amnesty and the weakness of the pound, making this part of London even more desirable. Day to day even now it sometimes feels like half of our international buyers in Chelsea are Italian. They are savvy when it comes to buying and educated on the market, which they rightly perceive to love the grandeur of a London home and properties with garden squares in Chelsea are particularly popular.” charles lloyd, savills MayFair: “Appetite for the best property in prime Central London will continue unabated the capital, be it investment driven or
those looking for boltholes in one of the world’s most coveted cities. Attracted by London’s robust safe haven status and transparent market buyers from India, the Middle East and Russia come to London’s prime locations looking for prestigious and secure turnkey properties, be it a grand mansion, beautiful mews or “Whether the budget is £1 million or £100 million the drivers remain remarkably similar to these discerning overseas high net worth individuals and a key consideration is often preparing see strong growth in demand from CIS countries as they generate more wealth internally, making London even more of a global destination than ever before.” Ben Morris, savills kniGhtsBridGe (Flats): “As well as the already strong Russian and Middle Eastern market, increasing enquiries in Knightsbridge are coming from China and the Far East. In comparison to the rest of Prime Central London, supply in Knightsbridge is dwindling as many international families buy their property in the area and keep it in the family for generations. Prime
central London prices have maintained continuous levels of growth since 2010 helped largely by the international market viewing London as an increasingly important part of their global property portfolio. Last year once overseas buyers became accustomed to the new off-shore tax structures, the market returned with something of a vengeance and we saw some of the biggest sales take place in the time.” adaM BishoP, haMPtons international, MayFair: “Buyers in Prime Central London have always included a real mixture of Russians, Middle Eastern and Europeans. climate buyers from across the world Belgravia and Knightsbridge are a safe haven for investment and are capitalising on the weak pound. But, it is important to mention that not all buyers in the area are international, over 40 per cent of our buyers in prime areas are from the UK. In fact, the Mayfair branch has just agreed a £12million cash sale to an English owner occupier who has bought just off Bond Street. “
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PROPERTY - ON THE MARKET LIFESTYLE LIVING AT ITS BEST
BURITON MANOR, PETERSFIELD, HAMPSHIRE. This elegant Grade II Georgian Manor House is situated on the edge of the picturesque Hampshire village of Buriton, set in about 7 acres, 60 miles from central London. The house lies on the edge of a beautiful gravelled courtyard bordered by attractive outbuildings, including a superb tithe barn. Overlooking stunning gardens that include a summer house, walled garden and swimming pool. The house comprises a reception hall, drawing room, sitting room, library, family kitchen, utility room and garden room. There is a grand master bedroom and 6 further bedrooms. Buriton Manor is a superb family home in the heart of a strong community village. AGENT: PRICE: £4,000,000
This rare property is located in one of the most sort after locations along the French Riviera, in between Nice and the Principality of Monaco and over looks the iconic Cap Ferrat peninsula. Situated on the water’s edge, the property has a private pontoon and both interior comprises an entry hall, a sizeable living room, dining room, professional kitchen, entertainment room and even a steam room. There are 6 bedrooms and bathrooms and a well designed garden perfect for entertaining and BBQ’s. The property comes with independent staff accommodation and a garage for 10 cars. This truly is Riviera living at its best. AGENT: Sotheby’S InternatIonal realty, TEL: +33 (0)4 93 38 50 33 PRICE: Poa
GREAT HALL, CURRY RIVEL, SOMERSET. This is a great example of a West Country mansion situated in beautiful private parkland with spectacular views. The property has been recently refurbished and rooms include a drawing room, dining room, library,
cellar. Other features include an indoor swimming pool and a leisure complex with a gymnasium. There is, additionally a self contained apartment and detached cottage. All of this in about 26 acres of parkland. What more could one want. AGENT: PRICE:
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THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
minutes from the historic city of Arezzo and is surrounded by a landscape of lush greenery, olive trees and vineyards. The Villa is built in traditional terracotta and in classic farmhouse style, the villa spans three levels and includes 7 bedrooms, 6 bathrooms, kitchen, dining room, living room, wine cellar, open-plan reception room, an orangery outside includes a beautiful swimming pool, two gazebos, a garage and a large bread oven. This is manageable Tuscan living in the heart of the Italian countryside. AGENT: Christie’s International Real Estate PRICE: $4,496,872 USD 1 CHAPTER HOUSE, CHAPTER STREET, WESTMINSTER. This is the last remaining house in the stunning Chapter House development and is located moments away from the River Thames, Tate Gallery and Vincent Square. It also offers great transport links with Pimlico, Victoria and St James underground stations all nearby. It’s not just the location that makes this property unique, this property has been designed and built with the utmost attention to detail and features include an Italian bespoke Cesar Kitchen and state of the art OPUS home technology. AGENT: Jackson-Stops & Staff, TEL: PRICE:
MARGARETTA TERRACE, CHELSEA, LONDON. On the corner of Margaretta Terrace and Oakley Street are a set of iron gates that swing open to reveal a haven from the hustle and bustle of the trendy Kings Road. This property is ‘bachelor pad heaven’ and located in a very sort after address in Chelsea. With off street parking this 2 bedroom apartment is perfect for summer entertaining, especially when the garden is lit up at night. The long drawing room spans under the length of the garden and the two bedrooms are both spacious and have beautifully designed bathrooms. The kitchen is again bright and
integrated visual and sound system. AGENT: ruSSell SImPSon, TEL: +44 (0)20 7225 0277 PRICE: £2,395,000
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THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
DRAYTON GARDENS, LONDON. SW10 FREEHOLD FIVE BEDROOMS GROSS INTERNAL AREA: 3,283 SQ FT/ 305 SQ M
£7,250,000 stc Three reception rooms, Dining room, Kitchen/breakfast room, Study, Snug, Five bedrooms, Three bathrooms, Garden, Off street parking. One of the “Key” houses on the terrace, new to the market this property has been beautifully refurbished to an exacting standard to provide superb family accommodation. The house faces west making it very light and airy and boasts six well proportioned reception rooms. With stunning ceiling heights and classical proportions, the entire 1st floor has been
dedicated to the master bedroom suite featuring balcony, walk in wardrobe and bathroom. Above, the second and third floors provide two good sized double bedrooms a piece, with a family bathroom and separate shower room. The lower ground floor is attractively arranged as three interconnecting living spaces, leading onto an 70’ garden. EPC rating E.
CHELSEA OFFICE 2 Cale Street, London SW3 3QU +44 (0)20 7581 5011 chelseaoffice@henryandjames.co.uk
henryandjames.co.uk
106 |Spring 2013 r www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk
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Old Church Street Chelsea SW3
An extra wide corner house arranged over three floors with off street parking and a south west facing garden. 0"5)-' .., 9 )22)-' .., 9 )-)-' .., 9 23$7 9 )2#(%- 9 "12%0 %$0.., 5)2( -13)2% "2(0.., "-$ 0%11)-' .., 5. 302(%0 %$0.., 3)2%1 -% 5)2( "- "$$)2).-"+ )22)-' .., "22"#(%$ 9 5. 302(%0 %$0..,1 9 5. 302(%0 "2(0..,1 2)+)27 .., 9 3%12 +."*0.., 9 0.-2 "0$%- 9 .32( %12 "#)-' "0$%- 9 && 20%%2 "0*)-' 9 "2)-'
F H LD
! 020 7351 2383
RI N A L I I N
020-7225 0277 www.russellsimpson.co.uk
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In 1805 we advised Kings & Queens. Today we are still trusted by the highest echelons of society. Any investment requires market knowledge and active management. We have been trusted property partners to our clients for over 200 years. Today, with a global network of over 70 offices, we can help you buy, sell, rent or let your property, whether for personal or investment purposes.
If you would like a no-obligation valuation of your property or talk to us about how we could help you with your property requirements, please call us on 020 3040 8332 or email valuations@chestertonhumberts.com
chestertonhumberts.com
108 |Spring 2013 r www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk
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jackson-stops.co.uk
Freehold Mayfair Georgian townhouse close to Hyde Park London
A newly refurbished west facing mid-18th century townhouse, with flexible accommodation. 2/3 reception rooms, 5/6 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms. Roof terrace, studio flat with own access, storage vaults. Offers in excess of £5,000,000.
Mayfair Conservation Area Creatively restored 15ft roof terrace Self-contained studio flat Listed Grade II About 2,571 sq ft
London office
020 7664 6646 london@jackson-stops.co.uk
Offices covering the UK London office: 17c Curzon Street W1J 5HU
|
www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk r Spring 2013 109 Fast find GJ50838
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The Directory 2. 3. 7.
1. 5.
6.
4.
8. 11. 10.
9.
12. 13. 14.
1. The London Essentials - A 6 piece band that mingles with the audience - engaging, flattering, surprising, seducing and serenading our listeners as we go. £POA. thelondonessentials.com. 2. Tea Cup SlightsHOT - a teacup that features a built-in groove that allows users to pull the teabag against the edge of the cup—letting them squeeze all the liquid out of the bag. By Samir Sufi. 3. Fourth and Main - The Journal, born to highlight young artistic talent in whatever form it occurs and in as clean and pure fashion as possible. fourthandmain. com. 4. Peckham Rye - A London based company selling ties, scarves, bow ties, handkerchiefs and socks. The 6th generation of the Victorian London tailoring family since 1799. £60. peckhamrye.com. 5. SeventyEightPercent - A lightweight and functional case that you would love carrying around town. $250. seventyeightpercent.com.com. 6. Personalised Caricature - A great present for colleagues, friends or family. The drawing can include props, like a favourite sport, cars, books, whatever the subject’s passion is. £120.00. carbolicsmokeball.com. 7. Archie’s At Home - Archie’s can come to your home and serve a full three course meal. This could be an informal dinner with friends, birthday parties, or even for business entertaining. £POA. info@archiesfood.com. 8. Outbox - Outbox is a new service that digitises snail mail so users can access it daily from anywhere in the world on ipad or notebook. $4.99p/m. outboxmail.com. 9. Curve Bluetooth iDock - Sleek, contemporary handset ideal for your home and office. $99.99. nativeunion.com. 10. Shaving Soap - Sandalwood Luxury Shaving Soap. £40. truefittandhill.co.uk. 11. James Wild Sculptures - Be it a subtle desk piece or an extravagant large statement for the garden, James’s pieces are the perfect addition. £POA. jameswildsculptures.co.uk. 12. Daisy Jenks Videos - Daisy Jenks is THE party essential. Creating a unique and hillarious video of the evening or weekend. You simply MUST check out here other videos to understand how much fun these videos are... really not to be missed. £POA. daisyjenks.co.uk. 13. 20th Century Projection - Clément Briend creates haunting unearthly 3D projections on trees, then photographs the results checkout the portfolio. wall30.com. 14. Bengo Belts - Bright and suede belts made in the mountains of western Guatemala where they are meticulously hand woven by the women of the Mayan communities. £20-25. bengobelts.com.
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Diary The
DIARY DIARY
112 | Spring 2013 r www.thegentlemansjournal.co.uk
THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
Adam Shulman and Anne Hathaway
Graydon Carter and Anna Scott Carter
Hannah bagshawe and Eddie Redmayne
Miranda kerr and Orlando bloom
Oscar Party 2013 It was that time of year again, the biggest night
Tom ford
natalie Portman and benjamin Millepied
Jason Statham and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley
Rupert Murdoch and Wendi Murdoch
broken, champagne drunk by the bucket load, hilarious speeches, some not so hilarious and even a tumble (Jennifer Lawrence we are talking about you). So what do the Hollywood A-list get up too after an event like this? Well, have a good knees up of course, and as per usual Vanity Fair’s Graydon Carter was on hand to play host for the annual Vanity Fair party. It was pretty much a who’s who of the acting world, everyone was there from Eddie Redmayne, Miranda Kerr, Natalie Portman, Orlando Boom, Anne Hathaway, Tom Ford, Halle Berry, just absolutely everyone. After more champagne they sat down for supper and then they partied till dawn.
All the paporazi at the entrance to the paty
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binky felstead and Araminta Curci
Olivia Glennie and Alicia Holder
binky felstead, Shingai Shoniwa and Araminta Curci
Amber Le Bon Party What better way to wrap up London’s Fashion week party, then heading down to
binky felstead, Shingai Shoniwa, Tod Russell-Welply and Araminta Curci
Robert Thomas, Tod Russell-Welply, kimberley Russell-Welply, binky felstead, Araminta Curci, Sachin khanna, Michael Rodgers, Max Shenkman and luke Prendergast
Becky Tong take to the decks. Well Binky Felstead seemed to think so, and along with Araminta Curci and Shingai Shoniwa danced away to eighties classic till the early hours.
Amber le bon and becky Tong
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THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
Charlie Schofield and Jo Renwick
lady natasha Rufus isaacs and Rupert finch
Drummond Money-Coutts and Anna-louise Downman
Beulah girls Natasha Rufus-issacs and Lavinia Brennan threw a party to celebrate the launch of their London
James Middleton and katie Readman
around the room in their Beulah dresses and Boodles Jewellery. Guests included Davina Harbord, James Middleton, Katie Readman, Tom Inskip, Tom Van Straubenzee and Chelsy Davy, all of whom sipped on blackberry martinis, before heading of to the after party at Bungalow 8.
&
lavinia brennan and Tom inskip
lavinia brennan, Harold Tillman and natasha Rufus isaacs
Olivia Cole and nicky Haslam
ben Elliot, lucia van der Post, John Ayton and Perry Oosting
DAVID GANDY & JOHNNIE WALKER BLUE LABEL PARTY
Jacobi Anstruther-GoughCalthorpe and Guy Pelly
This week, Johnnie Walker threw a drinks reception at Annabel’s, toasting style icon David Gandy as their new brand ambassador. With David Gandy playing host for the evening, the ladies were not in short supply, and were even joined by the odd gentleman or two. Beulah girls Lady Natasha Rufus Isaacs and Lavinia Brennan exchanged retail tips with Sir Harold Tillman, whilst Yasmin Le Bon even performed a little photo shoot with husband Simon in front of the Johnnie Walker banner. Ben Elliot and Lucia Van Der Post gave the Blue Highland Cocktails their luxury seal of approval. Goodbye to dry January….. lord March and Sir Stuart Rose
David Gandy and Mischa barton
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THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
Matt Smith and benedict Cumberbatch
Alex bilmes, Ronnie Wood, Sally Humphries, Tommy Dee Hilfiger
Henry Conway and Cole Simmons
Ronnie Wood, Tommy Hilfiger and Jamie Hince
Men’s Fashion Week is like an old fashioned cocktail, you don’t know you need it in your life until the date comes. Suddenly, without a choice you’re there, enjoying it profusely. This was the case at The Zetter Townhouse collection. As a long-time admirer of London’s menswear
Ronnie Wood and the ‘top shop boys’ with nick Grimshaw
here in London to celebrate my Fall Winter 2013 Tailored Collection during London Collections: Men. England is very close to my heart, and has always been a great source of inspiration to me with its rich heritage of tailoring. It’s an honour to be able to lend my support and celebrate the incredible talents in menswear design and I am proud to be one of several international brands who will be in the Capital to extend my support to London Collection’s: Men on a global level”, said the American icon. While guests including Ronnie Wood, Daisy Lowe and David Gandy sipped Moët and nibbled on hors d’oeuvres. All eyes were on David Gandy as he worked his way around the room and he was more than happy to tell me how amazing it is that Tommy
Ronnie Wood and Jamie Hince
London’s best dressed man Tinnie Tempah looked impeccable whilst saying, “we set the standard as far as men’s fashion, we care so much when it comes to what we wear but unlike most capital cities we don’t care if it is interpreted as “wrong” or “right” as long as its true to us and we’re having fun with fashion.” And with those wise words he was him. Without knowing it the music star summed up the evening… ‘having fun with fashion’.
Anna Wintour
Cara Delevingne and Alexa Chung
Douglas booth
lana Del Rey, Juno Temple, Alexa Chung
- AW13 London Fashion Week It’s London Fashion Week, it’s the Mulberry show, it’s the place to be seen. Mulberry showed its AW13 collection in true British style, and when picking the venue, the choice was easy, Claridge’s of course. The beautiful hotel was transformed into an English Atlanta de Cadenet, Harley viera newton, Douglas booth, Sam Claflin
Natalie Massenet, all of whom graced the front row, and most of whom were dressed in
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5 BEST HEADPHONES THE GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL
TECHNOLOGY REVIEW THE MODERN GENTLEMAN
BANG & OLUFSEN BEOLAB 5
2500 watts of digital
smallest of
allows you to
where they store it all but it looks like
get some resounding beats going. However, these little bullits offer a gloriously bellowing
sound. You might tell yourself that the money is better spent else where but these hot shots hold their own against the big guns so think twice, bite your tongue, chamber the guilt, cock the pistol and lend
UNLOCKING THE FUTURE
ARE CONCERNS WHEN IT COMES TO SECURITY WITH PAYMENTS AND HOME SECURITY ITSELF.
intricacies. Denon are centre stage now.
to mankind’s need for quantity in exchange for hard earned cash, but the quantity you’ll
acoustics of the room it is in. We Likey.
SENTURION
will mostly always be noticeable on your head but the noise isolation quality is a lucrative pay off with noisy environments shushed softly away. The 50mm Nano Fiber drivers privide rich sounds with meaty bass but with less attention on the top end
sound from the small stylish ear pieces. The price is high, especially for such a small
sky high. Adaptive Bass Control listens and learns, tuning the sounds to the
TECHNOLOGY IS CHANGING OUR LIVES MORE THEN EVER BEFORE, AND OVER THE LAST TWO YEARS THERE HAVE BEEN MANY INDUSTRY PROFESSIONALS WHO HAVE PREDICTED THAT IN THE COMING YEARS WE WILL BE ABLE TO CONTROL EVERYTHING FROM OUR MOBILE PHONE DEVICES. WHILST THIS MAY BE FANTASTIC FOR TURNING THE KETTLE ON IN THE MORNING, NATURALLY THERE
and brown compliment each other, far upstaging the old model. Cushiony comfort
MUNITIO NINES GLD TACTICAL - K30031 - £1,000 With all earbuds, you never really know what sound quality you’re going to get, or how loud you have to put the volume until you
they also serve as sound portholes to another dimension. We might not know where exactly the speakers transport you too, but we know it’s a place where sound is worshipped and moods are
SENNHEISER HD 800 - £1,240.
THE ULTRASONE EDITION 10 - £1,800
With a high retail price, you expect the sound quality of these headphones to not only massage your ears but also your head, back and shoulders. If it wasn't for the fact that they are headphones, they just might do that too, the sound quality is a another step above Sennheiser's usual high standard.
At the top end of our price scale the Ultrasone’s do what it says on the box - price wise. You always get what you pay for in life - but we rarely get more, like we do with these beauties. Custom foam lines the light but elegant cans (headphones that is…)
With a striking design and large
very comfortably, and matched with the bright clarity and detail of the sound, we are
earcups, the 800's look uniquely cool while directing the sounds directly towards the front of the listener's ears to prevent quality loss. With the light weight headset, even ear-pad pressure,
grainless and the midrange is balanced and They are very light weight and the build quality is top shelf. With balanced overall tonality in the midrange, bass and treble the Edition 10 is a strong contender for the podium.
they feel positively luxurious once on.
One such company has developed a product which solves both the security problem and at the same time makes our lives easier. The company in question is called Asset and their product is called Senturion. Essentially Senturion is a keyless
Senturion, in turn unlocking a door and making keys a thing of the past. The company also stresses that this technology has a range of other applications, which they are exploring.
entry device that is incorporated into a stylish bracelet.
The bracelet itself has been built to an extremely high
The technology has been designed by Yale and consists of an inbuilt antenna that transfers energy from the receptor to the
say “it is capable of withstanding a great deal more than a typical wristwatch”.
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Denon have been a respected headphone producer for some time now, but although their presence is known for sure, they breaking down walls like Sennheiser - until now. The cool design reminds you of Beats by Dre, but with added class. The silver
Stereophiles’ drool has been B&O’s main source of fuel in its astonishing 88 years since it began. Goodness knows
not only intimidatingly attractive but
DENON AH-D7100 - £1,200
AUDEZE LCD 3 - £1,300 Audeze are a young audio headphone company with killer style. Specialising in planer magnetic headphones, they have
stable, if you want to look super fashion trendy with cute hipster headphones then move on, these are for the performance junkies who want their tunes signed, sealed and delivered
broken through as a popular choice for keen audiophiles. The large headset keeps a good distance between your ears and the drivers which contributes to the cavernous sound they produce. Although comfortable and
on time, well packaged and polished for immediate use. The warm ambient sound stage is amongst the very best in town, with controlled sonics taking front row seats. This company cares about their listeners, a lot.
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THE GENTLEMAN’S GENTLEMAN’S JOURNAL JOURNAL THE
the
Leading Lady Daisy Jenks PARTY FILMMAKER
a Day in the Life: I wake up and go to my zumba class. Then I go for a ‘Joe & the Juice’ and get my usual – The power shake! an unknown fact about you? I have 40 animals at home, my favorites are the pet duck called Egg who I go swimming with in the summer and the two reindeer who I ride in the winter! What’s your goal in life? and Love Actually! What do you look for in a guy… I have a thing for dancing; any guy who can spin me around looking cool is ‘hawt’!!! I really Who is your celebrity crush? Eddie Redmayne & Josh Duhamel What is your favorite item of clothing? My William Sharp beanie with a fury pom-pom on top! Where do you shop? Harrods/Selfridges What’s your dream date? Go to Tokyo and rock out in a karaoke bar! Where’s your favorite coffee shop or hang out? Sketch, love the egg loos! Favorite restaurant in London? ‘Evans & Peel Detective Agency’ in Earls Court because of the role play before you start! Favorite party: best Recipe: The Oreo cake! Daisy is in The Browns Hotel Mayfair - Hellenic Suite Wearing Boodles Diamonds and Alice and Olivia Dress
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