Dining out 10/10/2013

indulge.

D I N I N G

O U T

SUPPLEMENT TO THE INLANDER

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EPIC FOOD. EPIC SPORTS. EPIC FUN.

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go ahead, indulge y

ou have to eat. Hopefully that’s not coming as news to you.

Your body needs food, but we don’t have to consider our eating habits to be merely for survival. And in a culinary climate that tends to — appropriately — value health, sustainability and creativity over the notion that eating good food is fun, we thought we’d allow you to enjoy yourself.

So indulge. We’ve been doing just that to research some gastronomic (and alcoholic) indulgences for when you’ve decided you’ve earned a break from that gluten-free, organic, slow food, locally sourced, paleo-influenced, Atkins-friendly vegetarian diet.

Dieticians even say it’s OK to have the occasional indulgence. It mostly means you’re a healthy, normal, well-adjusted person. In other words, you’d be crazy not to let yourself go outside the bounds of your typical eating habits.

Indulging in your food doesn’t necessarily mean pigging out, although we’ll show you how to do that in these pages. Rather, indulging in the food of the Inland Northwest is more about dropping that extra cash, or allowing yourself to step out of your comfort zone to enjoy something you typically wouldn’t order. It’s about searching out these sorts of things — from custom chocolate to rare sushi and exquisite cuts of meat to top-of-the-shelf cocktails — and letting yourself enjoy them.

And here in the Inland Northwest, where food plays a significant role in our culture and identity, you need to indulge once in a while. Again, you’d be crazy not to.

— MIKE BOOKEY, section editor

ethnic spices....................4

taco search ...................... 5

fine dining on a budget ... 7

rare sushi.........................8

the steak dinner ..............9

choclate and coffee ....... 11

big beers ........................ 12

breakfast drinking ......... 13

cocktails ........................ 13

menu guide .................... 16

all food photography shot at chaps by young kwak.

D r i n k Lo ca l s e ct i o n s ta rts o n pag e 1 2

OCTOBER 10, 2013 DINING OUT 3

Queen of Sheba’s yeme shir kikwat

ALPINE DELICATESSEN 417 E. Third Ave. 455-5148

authentic indulgence Spices don’t lie, but global chefs have been known to keep them secret

AZAR’S RESTAURANT 2051 N. Monroe St. 326-7171

QUEEN OF SHEBA

621 W. Mallon Ave., #426 328-3958

BY ANNEMARIE C. FROHNHOEFER

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t first glance, the folks at Azar’s don’t seem to mess around with secret ingredients. When you order the sumac chicken pita sandwich, that’s what you get — strips of grilled chicken smothered in onions and sumac.

Kyle Parker steps out of the kitchen, shows off a dish of sparkling, lavender sumac granules, and explains how the deeptoned spice imparts pink tones to the grilled chicken. That’s his favorite part about cooking the dish — watching it change hue.

As the meat turns pink, the spice turns black and mingles with grilled onions. The result is one of the best chicken sandwiches in the region — and the only sumac-themed one.

Mellow and fragrant, smoky yet piquant, sumac is a lip-smacking Greek spice that waitress LaDonna Winters describes as “tart [but] when the onion is grilled with it, it has a bit of sweetness.”

While many customers don’t try the sandwich (because they aren’t familiar with sumac, and naturally, people fear the unfamiliar), many customers are familiar with Azar’s lentil soup. One spoonful and a spice lover will swear it contains cardamom, but one more and there’s a subtle hint of cinnamon, or cloves. Then there’s garlic, maybe.

Guessing is futile. Katy Azar won’t share the

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contents of her lentil soup spice mix.

Unlike their celebrity counterparts who have been known to blanket the Internet with easily replicable recipes (ahem, Emeril Lagasse), Spokane’s local chefs of global origin keep their tradition-bound, age-old secrets confidential. And while many chefs rest on the laurels of American plenty, substituting regional options — of which there are many — for hard-to-find ingredients, the authentic tastes of a culture lie in what cannot be faked. You cannot fake spice. And for adventurous diners — or diners deciding to indulge in a night of adventure — searching out hard-to-find ethnic dishes is a different sort of route to indulgence.

Almaz Ainuu, owner and chef of Queen of Sheba Ethiopian restaurant in the Flour Mill, explains that berbere (a traditional, pungent North African seasoning) is a mixture of 20 different spices, but she hedged a bit when asked what the spices were.

There’s turmeric, but that was the only specific. She did mention that the spices aren’t simply combined — they’re ground together so that each spice is deeply infused with the qualities of every other spice in the mixture.

The spice is mixed with clarified butter, and meat is slow-cooked in it until tender.

The result is complex. The flavors found

in the yeme shir kikwat (split red lentils in berbere sauce) and tibs we’t (beef strips in berbere sauce) cast a long, ever-changing glow. Each bite brings on a subtle shift from tart to slightly sweet to a savory intensity that fades and lingers, urging you toward another bite.

But not all spices come from hot climes.

At the Alpine Delicatessen on E. Third Avenue, you’ll find one of the few native, hot spices Europe has to offer: horseradish.

While the Alpine dresses sandwiches with their own in-house prepared horseradish, no one could tell me exactly how the horseradish was prepared.

Stonewalled, I moved on. Most people know that throwing some bacon into a pile of mayonnaised potatoes does not a German potato salad make. However, vinegar alone cannot be responsible for the signature sour snap and smooth finish of the Alpine’s authentic German potato salad. There must be some oil in there and some dill, definitely onion, but what is in that creamy, white, vinegary dressing that drizzles and drapes chunks of boiled potatoes?

The woman behind the Alpine Delicatessen’s counter didn’t reveal much. “Vinegar, bacon, potatoes and some spices, but I don’t think I can tell you about that,” she said. 

folded piece of heaven Don’t be scared of the authentic taco: Take a bite, no Spanish required

BY LAURA JOHNSON

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very now and then a person needs some tongue. Cow tongue, that is. When chopped, seasoned, cooked, and gingerly placed in a warmed tortilla with cilantro, diced onion and a dribble of lime juice, one of the most deliciously authentic tacos has just been created.

Now, every sort of taco has its place.

Some might find the deep-fried, two-fora-dollar tacos at Jack in the Box to be the perfect choice at 2 am after a few drinks on the town. Fish and shrimp tacos have become a staple at many upscale bars looking to diversify their menus. Your mom’s tacos with refried beans, sour cream, lettuce, meat and cheese bring you back to a happier time. But these aren’t real tacos.

If you love tacos, take a break from the drive-throughs and your own stovetop and dive into the delectably authentic creations you can find right here in the Inland Northwest.

Claudia Escamilla knows all about making tacos the way they do in Mexico.

Since 2008, the Tacos El Sol taco food truck, started by Escamilla’s parents, has been feeding hungry lunchers (including Inlander staffers when the office was downtown) with gloriously authentic taco fare. Escamilla never fails to hear from people that what she serves from her truck isn’t actually a taco. But in fact, Escamilla stipulates, what the taco truck sells is far more authentic than anything else folks may have eaten in the past.

Selling tongue tacos only on Thursday and Friday in order to keep costs low, she says that lengua, or tongue, is popular, but carne asada, or steak, is still what most people order.

“People think tongue will have a weird texture,” she says. “But if I were to switch it out with carne asada, they probably wouldn’t be able to tell the difference.”

TACOS TUMBRAS

1325 W. Second Ave. 9420 E. Sprague Ave., Spokane Valley

TACOS EL SOL FOOD TRUCK

401 W. Sprague Ave.

Lengua tacos from Tacos Tumbras

For the most indulgent meal ever, you could throw down at an insanely expensive and caloric restaurant, or you could gorge on the most authentically meaty Mexican tacos imaginable for a steal (running from $1.50-$3 at most places). It’s the meat, in fact, that changes everything — and no, that doesn’t mean carne asada.

Meat is what Tacos Tumbras does right. From the outside, its location on Second Ave. (there’s another in Spokane Valley, along with two food trucks) doesn’t tell people exactly what they’ll experience upon walking in. An inviting cafe atmosphere run by the Zuniga family is what you’ll find. The menu offers chorizo, al pastor, and lengua tacos like other restaurants in town, but what puts them above the pack is the inclusion of tripe, or intestines, and cabeza, beef head.

“We’ve always had these meats on the menu,” says manager Jessell Zuniga.

“For this area, people aren’t always used to different things, but that’s beginning to change.”

Originally from Mexico City, the Zunigas had their eyes set on moving to Pullman, but were convinced otherwise when a friend informed them Spokane had a void where authentic Mexican food was concerned. The first Tacos Tumbras truck rolled out in 2004.

According to owner Carlos Zuniga, what makes his tacos special is where he originates.

“A lot of people tell me it’s different even than other Mexican restaurants,” he says. “That’s because I’m from Mexico City, where flavors blur together because people come from all parts of Mexico. We also only use fresh produce here.”

Biting into a taco filled with juicy tripe or cabeza may seem daunting, but there will always be a place for boring steak and chicken in your diet. Be bold.

Don’t be afraid to get your hands messy and make your own tongue happy. 

GERARDO’S AUTHENTIC MEXICAN FOOD 2706 N. Monroe St.

ATILANO’S MEXICAN FOOD

725 W. Third Ave. 218 E. Appleway Ave., Coeur d’Alene 12210 N. Division St. 3624 E. Sprague Ave.

OCTOBER 10, 2013 DINING OUT 5

Try the duck from Scratch at a discount.

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eating fancy on a budget How to sample some of the region’s fine dining establishments for less

BY CHEY SCOTT

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or those of us who consider ourselves budget-conscious eaters, finding justification for a night of decadent eating at one of the Inland Northwest’s many fine dining restaurants might be few and far between, but don’t let that be discouraging. There are more reasons than an anniversary or graduation to indulge in something from the entrée menu versus the happy-hour appetizers list.

In the shadow of the federal government shutdown and continuing recession woes, dining out — especially somewhere fancy and higher-priced — is something many may choose to cut back on, yet data from the National Restaurant Association indicates that industry sales and employment both continue to rise year after year. It’s also of interest to note that a 2013 survey by the NRA shows that 79 percent of adults who eat out would considering dining out more if prices were lower during non-peak hours.

We hear ya, so we called, searched and scoured the websites of as many local fine-dining restaurants we could think of to bring you this roundup of lesser-known, wallet-friendly specials. If you’ve been meaning to try out any of the establishments mentioned below, now’s your chance. Just remember to tip well, because even though you’re getting a discount on your meal, there’s no expectation the service will be any less.

Rain Lounge | 1007 W. First Ave.

Rain Lounge, the swanky cocktail counterpart of Scratch restaurant next door, may be known for its substantial drink menu and cheekily named signature cocktails (the Shark Bite, the Daisy Duke), but there’s another, less-talkedabout special at Rain every week offering customers the chance try Scratch’s upscale dinner entrée menu for half-price. Thursday from 6-9 pm, Rain patrons who order a drink from the bar can order off Scratch’s dinner entrée menu for half off the regular price. It’s a great way to try out some of the savory, eclectic dishes Scratch is known for, like the cedar plank halibut (regular price $24) or the popular hot pot, which comes with land and sea fare in a savory, spicy tomato broth (regular price $26). Other dinner entrées include citrus-seared salmon, pistachio-crusted pork loin and a ribeye steak and shrimp. With the half-off special, most entrées end up well under $20.

Scratch co-owner Connie Naccarato is quick to point out that Rain’s dining experience is not what you’ll get next door at Scratch’s linencovered tables. It’s bound to be a busy night, too, so you may have to settle for eating at the bar top or a low sofa and coffee table in one of the lounge’s cozy nooks. Nonetheless, the food is the same being served next door, and is well worth the price.

Bonsai Bistro | 101 E. Sherman Ave., Coeur d’Alene

Across from the scenic Coeur d’Alene Resort, Bonsai Bistro is a popular spot for resort-goers and locals to get top-notch sushi and Pan-Asian cuisine featuring a blend of Chinese, Japanese and other Asian styles and flavors. This time of year, Inland Northwest sushi lovers can rejoice: during the resort’s off-season, Bonsai’s famous Thursday all-you-can-eat sushi day (11 am-9 pm) goes from $35 per person to $29, and kids under 10 eat free with a paying adult. Be aware of a few rules for this special, outlined on the menu. Everyone eating sushi at your table pays the $29 all-you-can-eat price, and no take-home boxes are allowed — you order it, you eat it in-house.

As long as you take these into consideration, the dining experience should (pun intended) roll on smoothly. Sushi included on the Thursday night menu includes lots of traditional favorites: salmon roll, avocado roll, spicy tuna, tempura rolls, and several veggiefriendly options. Nigiri sushi is also offered, from mackerel, squid and salmon to escolar and yellowtail. Bonsai also offers a range of hot items and salads to complement its sushi. It’s recommended that diners munch on these items in between orders of sushi, which can take a little longer to prepare. 

affordable fine-dining options CHURCHILL’S STEAKHOUSE

165 S. Post St. Wednesday nights in Churchill’s basement level lounge are always busy for “Wimpy Wednesdays,” when all burgers are $7. Seating is limited, so be prepared to wait for a seat or get there early.

DAVENPORT HOTEL

10 S. Post St. Downtown-area workers are wellversed in the Davenport’s great $6 lunch specials offered daily (11 am-2 pm) in the Safari Room. Later, the hotel lobby offers Happy Hour from 4-6 pm with half off drinks and all flatbreads.

ANTHONY’S AT SPOKANE FALLS

510 N. Lincoln St. During the week, and especially appropriate in the fall and winter months when the dark creeps up earlier on us every day, Anthony’s offers its popular sunset dinners featuring a four-course fixed-price meal for just $19.95.

CEDARS FLOATING RESTAURANT

1514 N. Marina Dr., Coeur d’Alene Part of the Coeur d’Alene Resort’s collection of fine dining restaurants, Cedars is a place many reserve for fancy affairs, but from 4 to 6 pm, sample some of the dinner menu’s items for less, such as the 10 oz.

Prime Rib for $18.95, discounted from a regular price of $23.

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An Ume Shiso roll from Yuzen Sushi

Yuzen Sushi Restaurant

5204 N. Division St. 242-3534

roll models There’s sushi — and then there’s real good sushi

By Leah Sottile

Sushi.com

430 W. Main Ave. 838-0630

Syringa Japanese Cafe & Sushi Bar 1401 N. Fourth St., Coeur d’Alene 208-664-2718

Red Bento Restaurant

395 NE Stadium Way, Pullman; 509-332-1900; 215 W. Third St., Moscow 208- 596-4041

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ith the exception of the weird chocolate body paints they sell at porn stores, to my knowledge, sushi is the one of the only foods served off of naked bodies. Not here in Spokane, of course — nyotaimori is even more risqué than our bikini barista fad.

The idea is weird (and certainly not commonplace), but the extravagant manner of eating sushi off of another human being speaks to the cuisine’s indulgence and precision. Even the simplest sushi roll — like a simple kappa maki, which combines sushi rice, seaweed and cucumber — can pack a wallop of sweet, salty, bitter, sour and umami when paired with soy sauce, wasabi and pickled ginger. To eat sushi is to not only indulge your taste buds, but your mind.

Sushi, in fact, isn’t raw fish. That’s sashimi — and, given the slippery texture, it’s not really my thing. Sushi actually refers to vinegared rice, which is the building block to a good sushi roll. There are an infinite number of sushi rolls out there to be eaten, and I ventured out to see what kind of indulgent, kooky combinations I could find in the Inland Northwest.

8 dining out October 10, 2013

My first stop was Yuzen Sushi, a sushi bar in the old Thai Bamboo spot on North Division that I’d seen local foodies tweet their love for. On a Friday night, I lured some friends up there and we ordered a tableful of sushi rolls. It was easy to see why Yuzen has fast become a favorite: the menu didn’t disappoint when it came to offering tons of flavors I hadn’t seen or tried before.

My favorite was the Ume-Shiso roll ($4.50), a combination of Japanese plum with tamago (an omelet-type creation made with eggs, soy, sugar and mirin) and shiso, that was sweet, sour and disappeared off our plate almost immediately. Yuzen’s Futo-Maki Roll ($6.50) was a close runner-up: a roll made of boiled spinach, egg, ginger, kanpyo (pieces of dried gourd) and sweet fish powder.

I was downtown around dinnertime one night and stopped into Sushi.com, which was packed on a Tuesday night. After ordering from the restaurant’s massive menu and downing a plate of spicy and tangy edamame, the sushi chef passed a plate snaked with Curtis Rolls ($9.95) over the counter.

It’s a vegetarian roll (vegan if you omit the sauce), combines deep- fried squash, onion

and carrot with sushi rice, and is topped with avocado, slices of inari (sweet, deep-fried tofu) and creamy wasabi sauce. It’s a perfect roll, in my mind: sweet, spicy and clean, especially with pickled ginger on top.

The pint-sized Syringa Japanese Cafe & Sushi Bar in Coeur d’Alene, offers the closest thing to what I’d call “Inland Northwest Japanese” that I could find, with its Coeur d’Alene Roll ($7) — a fusion of smoked Idaho trout, cucumber, avocado and radish sprouts. Its Northwest Roll ($10) combines tempura-battered green beans with sautéed mushrooms and smoked salmon laid over the top.

Down in Moscow and Pullman at Red Bento Restaurant, you can find several different takes on the traditional California roll — like the Japanese Lasagna Roll ($8.95), which adds baked cream cheese, fish roe and scallions to the traditional ingredients.

Sure, we might not be close to a coastline — and that’s a deal breaker for a lot of people who want to eat sushi. But there are still a lot of interesting flavors worth trying at local sushi spots — and no, you won’t have to eat off of a stranger to feel like you’re indulging. n

a fine cut If you’re going to have a steak, have a big steak. It’s the American thing to do

By Mike Bookey

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ou can bet someone a steak dinner. You cannot, however, bet someone a quinoa salad dinner.

You could, of course. But it doesn’t quite sound right, does it?

The steak dinner remains the go-to American “fancy” meal. To some, a steak might be commonplace, but for decades, especially out here in the West, a massive cut of highquality beef served with a couple of simple sides remains a culinary treat.

And in Spokane, where cattle are raised within an hour’s drive, the steak still holds a special spot in the fine-dining world, and they’re good enough to splurge on.

Dropping a few hours of wages on a slab of beef might seem outrageous, but we’ve been doing that for generations. A steak is perhaps one of the original indulgences of the American West.

“In my mind, a big, thick steak gives the bite, the flavor and the feeling of indulgence,” says Bill Alles, the owner of Churchill’s Steakhouse, which opened in downtown Spokane in 2007 and quickly became one of the region’s most renowned steakhouses.

Serving only USDA prime meats painstakingly selected from Midwest farms, Churchill’s steaks run as much as $59. All are big enough for leftovers — and more. Thick, massive cuts, as Alles explains, are part of the allure of a fine steak.

“There’s something in the back of one’s mind about the big grilled steak that will make it an American institution for years and years to come,” he says.

The fine-dining world has shifted in the past decade to the point where the old-school steakhouse and its rustic trappings aren’t what some would consider when heading out for an indulgent meal. Compared to chicken and pork, beef sales are down over the

Wolf Lodge Inn The 26-ounce porterhouse steak from Wolf Creek Lodge

11741 E. Frontage Rd. Coeur d’Alene 208-664-6665

past few years as diners and home cooks try their hand at different cuisines that have become more and more common. That said, the beef industry locally is moving along just fine.

If you get a steak from another Inland Northwest favorite, the Wolf Creek Lodge in Spokane, or its sister restaurant, the Wolf Lodge Inn outside of Coeur d’Alene, it came from Double R Ranch in Loomis, a Washington town just south of the Canadian border. The savory taste a steaklover lusts after starts out on those plains, long before the cow ever becomes meat. And the process might help you understand some of the prices on these items.

The porterhouse steak pictured here was cut from a cow grown at Double R, where the animal’s nutrition and care is carefully monitored. Terry Reynolds, the company’s director of sales, says it doesn’t matter how great a chef is, the steak won’t turn out great if the animal wasn’t cared for properly.

“We are watching it all the way through. Animal welfare is critically important in this business.

Low-stress animals create a highquality product,” says Reynolds.

This porterhouse is one of the Wolf Lodge’s most popular steaks and rings in at $53. Their menu also features seafood and chicken items, but steaks reign supreme here. If you go to the original Wolf Lodge Inn, on I-90 just a few miles east of Coeur d’Alene, the menu is basically just steaks, and the interior is far more cowboy. It’s simple, but that’s part of the joy of a steak dinner.

“The nice thing about beef is that you add salt and pepper to it and you get a great experience,” says Reynolds. “There’s a romance to a steak — it’s part of the cowboy lifestyle. When you go out for a nice steak dinner, it’s special.” n

Wolf CREEK Lodge Steakhouse 104 S. Freya St. 535-8972

Churchill’s 165 S. Post St. 474-9888

October 10, 2013 dining out 9

Ganache from the Davenport Hotel’s Palm Court Grill

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chocolate, obviously Surrender to craving for fine chocolate in all its forms

BY LISA WAANANEN

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icture decadence, and it’s surely chocolatedipped. Does it even need to be said? Do you really need any convincing that chocolate holds a special place in the universe of indulgences? You can enjoy a cheesecake or admire a crème brûlée, but it’s chocolate that inspires a craving. Chocolate lovers will be unsurprised that archaeologists have unearthed traces of chocolate in ancient pottery, and the Aztec and Mayan cultures believed cacao beans had magical powers. Too often these days we get our chocolate fix by sneaking a Hershey’s bar from the Halloween loot and gobbling it before anyone notices. But chocolate doesn’t need to be a guilty pleasure — stop secretly unwrapping just one more fun-size Snickers and openly embrace three states of fine chocolate: solid, liquid and ganache.

First we stop at Spokandy on Third Avenue, where classic chocolates are crafted daily just like they were when the business opened a century ago as Riley’s Candy Co. “Candymaking in a hand operation like this is a dying art,” owner Francis T. Riley, the son of the founder, told the Spokesman-Review when he retired in 1968. “That durable stuff from the big factories doesn’t quite have the taste we can get.”

Good thing he was only partially right. Behind the glass counter, Spokandy is a dazzling array of bite-size indulgences filled with flavored buttercream, caramel and more. Those who like surprises can go for the charm of an assorted box, and traditionalists can go with the signature Murphys with whipped marshmallow centers, made just as they were in 1913. But chocolate purists can go straight for the classic dark and milk chocolates and the chocolatefilled truffles.

Next we stop at Chocolate Apothecary, which

SPOKANDY

1412 W. Third Ave. spokandy.com 624-1969

also hosts a tempting case of truffles and seasonal treats. But the specialty here is a comforting cup of drinking chocolate, which feels like the hot chocolate of childhood, but bears no resemblance to those powdery scoops — picture slivers of actual chocolate bars, melted into steamed milk. And because it’s actual chocolate, the darkness ranges from white and milk chocolate to a dark chocolate that’s 72 percent cacao. In Europe, there’s drinking chocolate that’s literally melted chocolate served in tiny cups, manager Rachel Mace-Crum says, but here they serve it as a more drinkable indulgence — something you can curl up with on a cold day. The warmth brings out the aroma of the chocolate, which goes down rich and velvety. Try the popular Spicy Maya for an extra kick, or ask the barista for a custom blend.

“We tell people to envision their favorite type of chocolate,” Mace-Crum says. “So, say that you love milk chocolate with salted caramel. We’d say, ‘We can do that.’ Or say that you like dark chocolate with coconut and toffee, and we can do that, too.”

Finally, one more stop for the most mysterious of chocolate forms: ganache. The chocolate-andcream concoction varies in interpretation and consistency, and it’s popular as both a filling and icing between dense layers of chocolate cake. But the chocolate ganache torte at the Davenport’s elegant Palm Court Grill lets the ganache be the star: Layered and sliced into a tall wedge, the torte resembles a sophisticated cake, but don’t be deceived — this rich, flourless confection is made of Callebaut Belgian dark chocolate, eggs, honey and sugar, with a crushed Oreo crust and vanilla cream topping. Cake would just get in the way. It’s a longtime favorite made fresh daily, says Joe Owens, the restaurant’s general manager. Even the most stingy of chocolate lovers may be persuaded to share. 

CHOCOLATE APOTHECARY

621 W. Mallon Ave. chocolateapothecary.com 324-2424

coffee moment What makes a truly fine cup of coffee? Between the grower and your cup, a lot of hands have put work into the quality of that first sip.

“There is always a story behind coffee,” says Rebecca Hurlen Patano, who owns Doma Coffee Roasting Company with her husband.

The bar continues to be raised for quality coffee distributed in the Spokane area, she says.

Higher price is an indicator of care, in both the quality product and the direct relationship with farmers, but the local market is a relative bargain. Beans that retail for $14$16 a pound in this area would go for upwards of $30 in other coffee-conscious markets like Seattle or San Francisco, Hurlen Patano says.

But the true reward of a quality cup is the experience, whether in a lively conversation with friends or an intimate connection with a loved one.

“What coffee can create is the opportunity to indulge in the moment,” she says.

— LISA WAANANEN

PALM COURT GRILL AT THE DAVENPORT HOTEL

10 S. Post St. davenporthotelcollection.com 789-6848

OCTOBER 10, 2013 DINING OUT 11

one beer buzz

Indulge in some of the region’s heaviest hitting brews

BY LISA WAANANEN

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No-Li Brewhouse Wrecking Ball Imperial Stout

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here’s a tradition of leisurely beer-drinking embodied by “session” beers with lower alcohol content, rooted in a time when laborers could sit around drinking for a few hours without staggering home, or more likely back to work. But the craft brewing revival has also whetted appetites for the opposite type of excess: the “big beer,” full of flavor and extraordinarily high in alcohol content. The trick is to brew a beer that’s heavy on alcohol without tasting like it, and local breweries have stepped up to the challenge.

Last year No-Li introduced the Wrecking Ball Imperial Stout, and the name alone should be an indication that this beer is here to make a statement. Inky black and full of roasted and malty flavors, it comes in at a hefty 9.5 percent alcohol by volume. The beer is featured in the mushroom gravy on No-Li’s new menu, so go all-in with an order of poutine. But you can also serve this monster beer — available in 22-ounce bottles from your favorite craft beer purveyor — as an after-dinner treat. It’s sweet enough to accompany a rich dessert and packs enough punch to help you wind down.

In Post Falls, Selkirk Abbey Brewing Company recently started bottling the 10° Quad, the boldest of its Belgian-style brews, the style in which the new brewery specializes.

Beneath the sweet aroma and complex malty flavor is a distinct alcohol warmth, which isn’t surprising given the 9.8 percent ABV. You’re not meant to slurp down a whole pint of this brew — rather, try an eight-ounce pour in a classy Belgian-style glass.

Some of the area’s most robust imperial IPAs are made up at the Laughing Dog brewery just outside Sandpoint, with the seasonal Devil Dog coming in at 10.8 percent alcohol (and plenty hoppy, too). The Dogfather Imperial Stout, released each year in November, registers 10 percent — and this year Laughing Dog upped the ante with a very limited edition Dogfather Part II, at 12.5 percent, as an entry for the Great American Beer Festival in Denver this weekend. n

how to drink before noon Go ahead — have a cocktail with your Sunday brunch

BY MIKE BOOKEY

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e Americans have a rule. No drinking before noon. Some of you slackers even wait all the way until 5 pm to unlock the liquor cabinet.

This is usually a good rule. A drink with your breakfast is a sign that things might not be going all that great for you. But remember, we’re indulging here. And if you’re indulging at one of the region’s many famed weekend brunch spots, you’re going to be in the company of others who are also drinking before the magic hour.

Just remember, a boozy cocktail with your breakfast or brunch essentially means you’re not likely to accomplish anything of consequence for the remainder of the day. Whatever.

You earned it.

THE BLOODY MARY

This is the steadfast warrior of the pre-noon cocktails. Its origins are shrouded in equal parts mystery and vodka, but regardless, hardy drinkers have been imbibing Bloody Marys since the 1920s. And if you’re going for a bloody in the Inland Northwest, there is no shortage of great options. From the snazzy bloodys found at North Idaho resorts which pack in as many veggies as they can to the simpler, let’sget-back-on-the-train concoctions found at Spokane sports bars, this cocktail comes in many, many forms.

We’re going to direct you to Chaps. This hiply decorated yet downhome cafe, located off Highway 195 just a few miles south of downtown, has become a destination for breakfast hunters. You’ll probably want an eggs benedict, and you’ll want to accompany that with Chaps’ well-known Bloody Mary. It’s strong, spicy and served with fresh garnishes. If you need another one, no one will notice when you sneak up to the bar for a refill.

Delicious Recipe Ideas Inside!

THE MIMOSA

Great Gift!

This is the classiest of the morning beverages, but mostly just because you drink it out of a fancy glass in a fancy setting. And that’s what you can do at the Davenport Hotel’s Champagne Sunday Brunch. Drinking aside, this meal is an indulgence in and of itself. But you shouldn’t ignore the fact that the $39.95 price tag includes unlimited mimosas. If you’re getting sticker shock from that price, just figure how much a mimosa runs you at a typical bar and you’ll realize this is a good deal. You’ll want reservations, and you’ll want to wipe the rest of your Sunday schedule clear. It could be the classiest way to tailgate for a Sunday of football.

Give (or get) Ninkasi Winter 22oz. 4-Packs and find staff favorite beer/food pairing recipes inside the box.

THE BRASS MONKEY

The Beastie Boys — or at least the Beastie Boys, circa 1987 — would be proud of this one. The Garnet Cafe in Coeur d’Alene serves perhaps the boldest breakfast drink you’re going to find in the region. They tell me it’s a “traditional brass monkey,” so fear not, malt liquor purists.

This popular breakfast and lunch spot is hardly a dive. They pride themselves on a fresh and innovative breakfast menu, but aren’t above serving a brass monkey. Here’s how they do it: Pour out the neck of an Olde English 40-ounce bottle and then fill it to the top with orange juice.

Don’t worry, nothing goes to waste. They give you what they poured out on the side. It’s only $7, and management says that it’s more popular than you might think. A lot of people choose to split it. That’s probably a good idea. 

NINKASIBREWING.COM

BREWED IN EUGENE, OR

OCTOBER 10, 2013 DINING OUT 13

Dry Fly is always better

adventure drinks Learn to sip outside your comfort zone

BY MIKE BOOKEY

ABSINTHE

This green spirit can turn things weird quick if you’re not careful. But used as an extra bit of flair for a complex drink, it can work wonders.

At Sapphire Lounge, you’ll find the Sazerac, a cocktail with a history dating back more than 150 years. It combines rye whiskey, simple syrup, bitters, a lining of absinthe on the glass and some lemon zest. Clover also serves a Sazerac, but opts for sugar cubes instead of simple syrup.

Another cocktail that uses a dash of absinthe to wild things up is the Monkey Gland at Bon Bon. This peculiarly named drink has a 90-year history and includes gin, orange juice, grenadine and some absinthe.

CHOCOLATE

A sweet drink doesn’t just have to be an appletini or a bottle of hard lemonade.

Twigs, the regional martini-bar chain, serves the Chocolate Kiss, which combines vanilla vodka, Baileys Irish cream, coffee liqueur and crème de cacao, shaken to ice-cold and served up in a martini glass garnished with shaved chocolate. If you weren’t counting, that drink features four different types of booze and chocolate.

At Northern Quest Resort & Casino’s Liquid Lounge, you’ll find Sylvia’s Chocolate Seniorita. It’s tequila mixed with white crème de cacao, vanilla syrup and half & half, served with a ribbon of chocolate on the glass.

WHISKEY

Wet Fly

Dry Fly [drink responsibly]

Dry FLy keeping you classy since 2007

The Old Fashioned at 315 Martinis and Tapas is a cocktail worthy of Don Draper’s approval: whiskey, homemade bitters, sugar and muddled cherries, garnished with an orange.

On the South Hill, try the Old Branch at Luna. It consists of rye whiskey, Cardamaro, vermouth and orange bitters, and packs a hell of a flavor punch. n

DRY FLY

Craft beer is about being innovative, adventurous and having fun, and that’s what our Expo Series is all about. Find them on tap at No-Li or at your favorite pub across the Northwest.

VODKA | GIN | WHISKEY | BOURBON

509-489-2112 DRYFLYDISTILLING.COM 1003 E TRENT # 200 | SPOKANE, WA 99202 14 DINING OUT OCTOBER 10, 2013

No Boundaries. No-Li No-Li..

LOCALLY OWNED | LOCALLY MADE | LOCAL INGREDIENTS

1003 E. Trent Ave. | 509.242.2739 NoLiBrewhouse.com

BM_Savor_9-3x11_107044JC.indd 1

OCTOBER 10, 2013 DINING OUT 15 6/7/12 10:58 AM

menu guide Casper Fry.............................................................. 17 Chaps...................................................................... 16 Clover..................................................................... 17 Coeur d’Alene Casino.......................................18-19

-Chinook: Steak, Pasta & Spirits

-Red Tail

-Sweetgrass Café

-High Mountain Buffet

-Twisted Earth

-Nighthawk Lounge

Chaps

Davenport Hotel.................................................... 28

- Palm Court Grill

- Safari Room Dawn of the Donut................................................ 17 Donny’s Place........................................................20 Downriver Grill, The..............................................20 Fatburger................................................................20 Fery’s Catering & Take Out...................................20 Flying Goat, The.................................................... 21 Hacienda Las Flores............................................... 21 Hills’ Restaurant & Lounge................................... 21 Jimmy John’s Gourmet Sandwiches...................... 22 Laguna Cafe........................................................... 21 Little Euro | Old European.................................... 23 Madeleine’s Cafe & Patisserie................................ 23 Manito Tap House.................................................. 23 Max Restaurant & Lounge at Mirabeau Park Hotel.. 23 Mustard Seed.........................................................24 No-Li Brewhouse...................................................24 Northern Quest Casino Epic featuring Studio E.....2 Pizza Pipeline, The | The Bar @ Pizza Pipeline.....24 Prospectors Bar & Grill.......................................... 25 Ref Sports Bar, The................................................ 25 Saranac Public House............................................26 Satay Bistro............................................................26 Scratch...................................................................26 Stacks at the Steam Plant...................................... 25

16 DINING OUT OCTOBER 10, 2013

Diner & Bakery 4237 S Cheney-Spokane Road Spokane Washington 99224 509.624.4182 Chapsgirl.com Find us on Facebook

FARM INSPIRED, SOUTHERN CRAFTED

AMERICAN TRUE FOOD CRAFT COCKTAILS • FRI-SAT

GOVERNOR\ FRESH BAKED MAPLE BAR WITH “KILLER” BACON CRUMBLES.

FALL DINNER AND BRUNCH MENUS

BEGIN OCTOBER 11TH

MON, WED-FRI 11:30AM-CLOSE | SAT & SUN BRUNCH 9AM-2PM, SUPPER AT 4PM

928 SOUTH PERRY | CASPERFRY.COM | 535-0536

ROMERO

THE RICK

WHITE FROSTING OOZES CHOCOLATE ICING AND A GRAVEYARD OVER A RAISED DONUT WITH OF M&M’S REST ETERNALLY ATOP CRUNCHBERRY CARNAGE. A RAISED DONUT.

CUP OF DAWN OF RECEIVE A FREE OM BLEND COFFEE THE DONUT CUST OF DONUT WITH PURCHASE

SPOKANE’S ONLY DRIVE-THRU DONUT SHOP! | OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK 6AM-1PM 3402 N DIVISION ST | SPOKANE | 509.328.1764 | DAWNOFTHEDONUT.COM

extraordinary. served daily.

FEATURING OUR NEW FALL & WINTER SEASONAL MENU JAZZ BRUNCH 1st SUNDAYS 10:00 am - 1:00 pm FRESH BAKERY ON-SITE

913 East Sharp Avenue, Spokane, WA 99202

(509) 487-2937

facebook.com/cloverspokane

cloverspokane.com OCTOBER 10, 2013 DINING OUT 17

? y r g n u H WE HAVE SO MANY OPTIONS We take great pride in offering guests a range of dining options, each of which you’ll relish local fresh food and appreciate unparalleled service. Our award-winning chefs are skilled at crafting sophisticated dishes as well as amazing little bites to savor.

Here, dining is never an after-thought – it’s part of the adventure.

CA F É

BUFFET

F F O 5 $

Y VENUE RCHASE IN AN NO RESORT U P D O FO Y N SI A R D’ALENE CA AT THE COEU th . ber 10 , 2013 Expires Novem r. e m on per custo One redempti ck a . hol. No cash b Excludes alco Marketing.

Ring as Comp

g n i n n i AwarVdE CW D E T S G E H M A HEF AD EXECUTI

Hegsted has built a name for himself with a bundle of culinary awards. His winnings have not only included local, regional and national competitions, he has won them in almost every category of food preparation.

His inventive nature and the success it’s brought him resulted in the rare honor of cooking at the James Beard House in New York City in 2012, an honor he now shares with so many of America’s finest chefs.

1 800 523- 2 4 6 4 | CDAC A S I N O. COM |

/ CDAC A SI N O R E S O RT

25 miles south of Coeur d’Alene at the junction of US-95 and Hwy-58

Continental Cuisine Reservations 509 979-2741 2103 E. Diamond, Spokane

Reserve Your Holiday Catering Now! • Come visit us for specialty take-out items Monday-Friday • We now cater events at the historic Patsy Clark Mansion

Serving the Spokane area for over 30 years!

(509) 458-5234 | 421 S Cowley, Spokane | feryscatering.com 20 DINING OUT OCTOBER 10, 2013

Hacienda Las Flores NOW WITH TWO LOCATION TO SERVE YOU! 510 S. Freya St. | Spokane | 509.315.8853 924 W. Hwy 2 | Newport | 509.447.9284 HaciendaLasFloresSpokane.com

4 OFF LUNCH or DINNER

Hacienda Las Flores

$

With purchase of two (2) Entrees & two (2) Beverages Not to be combined with any other offer. Exp 12/31/13

Delivery, To-Go & Catering, Party Room Available - 509.315.8853

like us for daily specials!

Experience Laguna Cuisine In Our Beautiful Setting!

You bring the conversation. We’ll take care of the rest.

Happy Hour | 7 days | 4-6pm New small plate menu | $10-$14 everyday Like us on Facebook! Laguna Spokane RestaurantsSpokaneWA.com | 509.448.0887 | 4304 S. Regal St.

OCTOBER 10, 2013 DINING OUT 21

ok, so my subs really aren't gourmet and we're not french either. my subs just taste a little better, that's all! I wanted to call it jimmy john's tasty sandwiches, but my mom told me to stick with gourmet.

Regardless of what she thinks, freaky fast is where it's at. I hope you love 'em as much as i do! peace!

Established in Charleston, IL in 1983 to add to students GPA and general dating ability.

8" SUB SANDWICHES

GIANT club sandwiches

All of my sandwiches are 8 inches of homemade French bread, fresh veggies and the finest meats & cheese I can buy! We slice everything fresh daily in this store! It tastes better that way!

PEPE®

#1

SLIMS™ Any Sub minus the veggies and sauce

Real wood smoked ham and provolone cheese, lettuce, tomato & mayo. (The original)

#3 TOTALLY TUNA®

slim slim slim slim slim slim

#4 TURKEY TOM®

Low Carb Lettuce Wrap ®

#5 VITO®

Same ingredients and price of the sub or club without the bread.

#2 BIG JOHN®

Medium rare choice roast beef, mayo, lettuce & tomato.

Fresh housemade tuna, mixed with celery, onions, and our tasty sauce, sliced cucumber, lettuce & tomato.

(My tuna rocks!)

Fresh sliced turkey breast, lettuce, tomato & mayo.

The original (Sliced cucumber optional)

1 2 3 4 5 6

Ham & cheese Roast beef Tuna salad Turkey breast Salami, capicola, cheese Double provolone

JJ UNWICH

The original Italian sub with genoa salami, provolone, capicola, onion, lettuce, tomato, & a real tasty Italian vinaigrette. (Hot peppers by request)

#6 THE VEGGIE

Layers of provolone cheese separated by real avocado spread, sliced cucumber, lettuce, tomato & mayo.

(Truly a gourmet sub not for vegetarians only) Bacon, lettuce, tomato & mayo!

(My B.L.T. rocks)

TW YM NL J // NSF ¹8 Q

J.J.B.L.T.®

★ sides ★

U N C H ES ★ ★ BOX LPLATTERS ★ ★ PARTYTY SU BS ★ ★ PAR OUR NOTICE, WHAT ER 24 H WE PREF CALL , WE’LL DOPEN! U AP O BUT IF YN TO MAKE IT H WE CA DELIVERY ORDERS will include a delivery charge per item.

★ Chocolate chip or oatmeal raisin cookie ★ Extra load of meat ★ Extra cheese or extra avocado spread

ORDER ONLINE @ JIMMYJOHNS.COM

freebies (subs & clubs only) Onion, lettuce, tomato, mayo, sliced cucumber, hot peppers, Dijon mustard, yellow mustard, oil & vinegar, oregano.

#7 SMOKED HAM CLUB 1/4 pound of real wood smoked ham, provolone cheese, lettuce, tomato & mayo!

#8 BILLY CLUB®

Choice roast beef, smoked ham, provolone cheese, Dijon mustard, lettuce, tomato & mayo.

#9 ITALIAN NIGHT CLUB®

Genoa salami, Italian capicola, smoked ham, and provolone cheese all topped with lettuce, tomato, onion, mayo & our homemade Italian vinaigrette.

(Order it with hot peppers)

#10 HUNTER’S CLUB®

A full 1/4 pound of medium rare roast beef, provolone, lettuce, tomato & mayo.

#11 COUNTRY CLUB®

Sliced turkey breast, real wood smoked ham, provolone, and tons of lettuce, tomato & mayo!

(A very traditional, yet always exceptional classic!)

★ Soda Pop ★ Real potato chips or jumbo kosher dill pickle

My club sandwiches have twice the meat or cheese, try it on my fresh baked thick sliced 7-grain bread or my famous homemade French bread! Tell us when you order!

#12 BEACH CLUB®

Fresh baked turkey breast, provolone cheese, avocado spread, sliced cucumber, lettuce, tomato and mayo!

#13 GOURMET VEGGIE CLUB® Double provolone, real avocado spread, sliced cucumber, lettuce, tomato & mayo. (Try it on my 7-grain whole wheat bread. This veggie sandwich is really yummy!)

#14 BOOTLEGGER CLUB®

Roast beef, turkey breast, lettuce, tomato & mayo.

An American classic!

#15 CLUB TUNA®

THE J.J. GARGANTUAN® The original gutbuhstuh! Genoa salami, sliced smoked ham, capicola, roast beef, turkey & provolone, jammed into one of our homemade French buns, then smothered with onions, mayo, lettuce, tomato & our homemade Italian vinaigrette.

The same as our #3 Totally Tuna except this one has a lot more. Housemade tuna salad, provolone, sliced cucumber, lettuce & tomato.

#16 CLUB LULU®

Sliced turkey breast, bacon, lettuce, tomato & mayo. (JJ's original turkey & bacon club)

#17 ULTIMATE PORKER™ Real wood smoked ham and bacon with lettuce, tomato & mayo! (This one rocks!)

WE DELIVER! 7 DAYS A WEEK TO FIND THE LOCATION NEAREST YOU VISIT JIMMYJOHNS.COM

"YOUR MOM WANTS YOU TO EAT AT JIMMY JOHN'S!" ® © 1 9 8 5 , 2 0 0 2 , 2 0 0 3 , 2 0 0 4 , 2 0 0 7 , 2 0 0 8 , 2 0 13 J I M M Y J O H N ’ S F R A N C H I S E , L L C A L L R I G H T S R E S E RV E D . We R e s e r ve T h e R i g h t To M a k e A n y M e n u C h a n g e s .

22 DINING OUT OCTOBER 10, 2013

SERVING BREAKFAST & LUNCH DAILY

Stop in and try our NEW Fall Dinner Menu!

Cardinal Lobster Crepe • Cider Braised Rabbit • Boeuf Bourguignon Almond Custed Salmon • Pumpkin Creme Brûlée

7640 N. Division • North Spokane

517 N. Pines • Spokane Valley

oldeuropeanbreakfast.com 509.467.5987

littleeurorestaurant.com 509.891.7662

Hours: Mon-Sat 7am-2pm • Sun 7am-3pm

Pastries, Crepes & Espresso, Breakfast & Lunch served daily Dinner Friday and Saturday evenings 5 to close 509-624-2253 | 707 W. Main Ave. | madeleines-spokane.com

100 % Scratch made menu

55

bottles

of BEER 50 BEERS

ON TAP INCLUDING 43 NW WINES

and a full bar only certified 4 star green rated restaurant West of colorado

3011 South Grand BLVD - ManitoTapHouse.com Sun-thur 11a-11p - fri-Sat 11a- 2a | 279-2671 gas•tro• pub

noun British: a pub that specializes in serving high-quality food.

OCTOBER 10, 2013 DINING OUT 23

Clams

o, ic, jalapen atoes, garl m to , n 0 o c .0 a 3 .... $1 moked b ........................

Hickory-S and butter n io n o d cilantro, re

Crème Ale

ili Tri-Tip Ch ,

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Anaheim p ....................

.. ....... $10.00 .................... .................... ..

Cup ............ .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..........

Bowl ..........

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sa pepper atty, haris p f e e b e b ese, erican Ko eddar che Angus/Am smoked ch k moked o -s o ry m o la k il and hic sauce, T to a m 3.00 to , e c ttu ................. $1 Arcadian le ........................ ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ......... bacon. .........

almon Sockeye S

quinoa verde and a ls a s rb e ,h 17.00 ised glaze .....................$ Born & Ra ........................ ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...... corn cakes

24 DINING OUT OCTOBER 10, 2013

INTERNATIONAL AWARD-WINNING

BREWS — NEW —

MENU SAME GREAT

SETTING NoLiBrewhouse.com 1003 E. Trent Ave., Spokane 509.242.2739

COOL SPACE | FRESH MENUS | GREAT BEER

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G������� � K��� �� �� (K��� �������� �� $99!)

Your Football #1 & Headquarters tion!

Wing Destina

31

WITH MOUTH WATERING FLAVORS!

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GO

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GO

HAWKS!

SERVING BREAKFAST SAT & SUN AT 9AM

Under the smokestacks, downtown Spokane 159 S. Lincoln | 509.777.3900 steamplantspokane.com We’ll pay for your parking in our lot ½ block N. on Lincoln while you dine!

OCTOBER 10, 2013 DINING OUT 25

Chinese Lacquered Pork

House brined pork tenderloin marinated in hoisin, soy sauce, garlic, five spice & honey.

Served with house made sweet hot mustard & sesame seeds | 8

Roasted Beet Salad

Organic mixed greens, roasted red beets, local apple, & red wine vinaigrette topped with toasted almonds & goat cheese.

Served with pub toast |v | 9

Vegetarian Chickpea Burger

A pan fried, hand pressed, vegan patty of local chickpeas, onion, parsley, garlic, cumin & coriander. Topped with feta cheese, cucumber, roma tomato, red onion & lemon tahini on a grilled, house made whole wheat bun |v| or without the feta on a toasted whole wheat bun |V| 10

Italian Sausage Penne

Gluten free brown rice penne pasta tossed with sautéed onion, crimini mushroom, garlic, roasted red peppers, house made Italian sausage & marinara. Topped with tomato, parmesan & fresh basil | GF | 13

TASTE NORTHWEST FRESH! Wine Bar and Live Acoustic Music

Real Food | Great Beer | Fine Wines | Hand Crafted spirits HAPPY HOUR | MON-THURS 3-6 & 9-CLOSING | FRI 3-6 | SAT 11-5 | ALL DAY SUNDAY

21 West Main Ave | 473-9455

OPEN AT 11:00AM DAILY | saranacpublichouse.com

Lunch & Dinner / Every Day 11 to Close 2501 N. 4th St. Cd’A, ID / 208.765.2555 sataycatering.com

A weekly email for food lovers

YOUR DESTINATION FOR GREAT COCKTAILS, FOOD, AND MUSIC HOME OF THE RAINDROP MARTINI A casual, yet upscale dining option featuring items made from scratch with organic, fresh and local ingredients.

SIGN UP AT

INLANDER.COM/NEWSLETTER 1007 W. 1st Ave • Downtown Spokane, • (509) 456-5656 501 E. Sherman • Downtown Coeur d’Alene • (208) 930-4762 scratchspokane.com

26 DINING OUT OCTOBER 10, 2013

1009 W. 1st Ave. :: Spokane (next to Scratch Restaurant) 509.456.5656 :: rainspokane.com

To advertise, call 509.325.0624 x216 or email sales@inlander.com

f o e r u t u F e h T ! e r e H s i s n g Si • Stable & secure digital signage for your business that can be managed from anywhere with internet access.

• Static or scrolling, videos with sound and many more options available!

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Call us for a demonstration of what we can do for your business!

JamisonSigns.com | 509.226.2000

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OCTOBER 10, 2013 DINING OUT 27

SERVING UP TASTY DEALS Baby Back Ribs

Herb Grilled Wild Salmon

$6 Lunches $17.95 3-Course Dinners Happy Hour

Early Bird Special Salad - Entrée - Dessert $17.95 3-Course Dinners 3-6pm Daily

509 789 6800 • safariroombarandgrill.com 509 789 6848 • palmcourtgrill.com Davenport Hotel Tower Historic Davenport Hotel 111 S. Post St., Downtown Spokane Prices subject to change. 10 S. Post St., Downtown Spokane 28 DINING OUT OCTOBER 10, 2013