Bars & Clubs January - February 2017 by The Intermedia Group

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2017

THE

BARTENDERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BIBLE EDITION

&clubs

FOR BAR PROFESSIONALS WHO WANT MORE

NOW WITH GREATER REACH THAN EVER &clubs

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

RED, WHITE & BLUE American whiskeys for your cocktail list and US beers for your fridge.

SUMMER DRINKS

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

&clubs

RED, WHITE & BLUE American whiskeys for your cocktail list and US beers for your fridge.

Embrace jugs, Frose and blenders.

SUMMER DRINKS

THE BIG APPLE

What’s trending in NYC right now.

Embrace jugs, Frose and blenders. What’s trending in NYC right now.

PLUS: CIDER STYLES TO TRY – PINA COLADA – DEAD RABBIT: THE WORLD’S BEST BAR – DRINKS WITH DE NIRO

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first drinks

NEW YEAR. NEW YOU...?

We want to keep

the amazing talent that exists within the industry happy and healthy and

focused on longevity. @BARS_AND_CLUBS

MANAGING DIRECTOR Simon Grover PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Stefanie Collins scollins@intermedia.com.au PHOTOGRAPHER Bartender’s Bible: Simon Taylor (Shot at Public House Petersham)

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NATIONAL SALES MANAGER Samantha Miller smiller@intermedia.com.au (02) 8586 6123 GENERAL MANAGER SALES – LIQUOR & HOSPITALITY GROUP Shane T Williams stwilliams@intermedia.com.au GRAPHIC DESIGN Ryan Vizcarra ryanv@intermedia.com.au

New Year and new resolutions. Well, that’s the theory right? Are you a New Year’s resolution kind of person? I never used to be. Mostly because I’m pretty bad at the whole being healthy thing. It’s stupid and irresponsible, I know that, but as yet it hasn’t impacted on my life that much. So that’s a win. But what happens when the choices we make day to day do start to impact on our ability to not only function in our personal lives but in our careers? There has been an upswing in chatter of late, throughout the global industry, around creating sustainable careers and minimising the damage a career in a high-stress industry can wreak on a person. Everything from substance abuse (legal and illegal), to shaking techniques, to shoes, to exercise. It’s a new focus for the industry and one that is pretty important now that a career in bartending is not only better accepted but also sought after. How are we, as an industry, going to create an environment where our newest members can look forward to a 20 year career in the healthiest possible way? We touched on this last year, albeit briefly, and throughout 2017 we’re going to work on it further. After all, we love this industry as much as you and we want to keep the amazing talent that exists within it happy and healthy and focused on longevity. That said, we’re not here to be killjoys – far from it, because if anyone comes between us and a Negroni they’re going to regret it. But maybe there are some small changes we can all make – after all, it doesn’t hurt to ask a colleague how they’re coping if you see them struggling. That’s what family is about. Stefanie Collins Editor

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JANUARY/FEBRUARY

Features 14 ROUND TABLE The bar industry is pretty wasteful – we brainstorm how to make is less so.

22 WORLD CLASS The new ambassador, Natalie Ng, let’s us in on what to expect in 2017.

24 THE BARTENDER’S BIBLE The products you need in 2017 – from dark to light spirits, amaro to liqueurs, and more.

42 LEGEND OF LIQUOR Mikey Enright is a bona fide legend of the Australian bar scene.

Regulars 6 NEWS What you need to know.

8 OPENINGS The new, the revamped, and the rebranded venues opening around the country.

10 INSPIRATION Your new favourite modern classic cocktail.

12 NEW FACES Keep an eye on these bartenders.

13 SINGAPORE SLING The colonial classic makes a comeback.

18 OPERATOR PROFILE Jared Merlino is one of the faces behind some of the most successful bars in Sydney, and indeed Australia. We find out what makes him so good at what he does.

8 10

42 DISCLAIMER

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BARS&clubs 5

news

TIME OUT BAR AWARDS

Russell Street institution Whisky and Alement was named Time Out Melbourne Bar of the Year with the well-loved venue, which has been introducing Melbourne whisky fans to rare and unique drams since 2010, also taking out the award for Best Bar Team. According to Time Out’s National Food and Drink Editor, Emily Lloyd-Tait, the bar is iconic for being the first to really champion whisky in Melbourne, as well as curating an excellent craft beer collection. Bartender of the Year went to Joe Jones of Romeo Lane, with that bar also named Best Cocktail Bar for 2017. Among the bars to open in Melbourne in the past year, Loretta’s at Bluebonnet BBQ in Fitzroy North was named Best New Bar. Meanwhile in Sydney, PS40 picked up Best New Bar for their work with creative house-made sodas, while spritz-central This Must Be The Place took out Bar of the Year, and Best Cocktail Bar. Best Neighbourhood Bar went to The Gretz, and Best Restaurant Bar was given to late night hangout Big Poppa’s. Home of the shirtless Ramblin’ Rascal Tavern picked up Best Bar Team; Ryan Sneddon of Lobo Plantation thanked everyone for putting up with his accent when he took home the Hot Talent Award; and the ever-humble Mikey Nicolian of Continental Deli was stoked to be awarded Bartender of the Year. To read all the results head to professional.topshelfshow.com.au.

A COCKTAIL SCAM It’s pretty obscure, but the Seelbach is a classic nonetheless. Or is it? According to The New York Times reporter Robert Simonson, the drink, discovered by bartender Adam Seger and named after the Seelbach Hotel (briefly mentioned in The Great Gatsby) is a sham. Seger invented “pre-Prohibition cocktail” himself.

6 BARS&clubs

WORLD CLASS Entries for the international cocktail competition are now open. They will close on 17 March 2017 so start your engines. To find out what you need to do, head to www. theworldclassclub. com and click ‘enter competition’. Select Australia as your country of entry, then complete the entry form.

WASH YOUR HANDS IN OLD COCKTAILS Well… a soap that is made out of them perhaps, since 42 Below has launched Recycled Cocktail Lemons Eco Soap, a sustainability initiative to create the world’s first soap made from recycled cocktail lemons. According to the brand “we’re all dead” unless we start looking after this little old planet of ours so they have decided to do something about it. So 42 Below is collecting old lemons and other fruit wastage from bars across Australia and turning them into liquid lemon soap that is then sent back to the bars for free, to be used behind the bar and in bathrooms. The program launched in early December, and they have already collected 400kgs of fruit waste, which was then turned in 20,000 sachets of soap and 400 bottles of soap.

PATIENT WOLF Melbourne’s newest urban distillery is set to release their first batch of premium dry gin. The brainchild of Matt and Dave Irwin, the distillery’s Australian Dry Gin is a modern take on the classic London Dry, made using native and exotic botanicals – including Tonka beans and Australian citrus.

news OLD FASHIONED PEAK A report on US cocktail trends has revealed that the Old Fashioned is the most mentioned cocktail on menus heading into 2017, and whisk(e)y cocktails in general have a 23 per cent share across “craft bar” menus. The IWSR US On-Premise Insights: Cocktail Trends report spans cocktails, categories and brands on menus at leading craft cocktail bars across 25 US cities, and shows that the Old Fashioned and the Moscow Mule account for 30 per cent of cocktail menu mentions.

FOR YOUR CALENDAR

JOE MCCANTA: PROHIBITION COCKTAIL FATIGUE

Grey Goose global ambassador Joe McCanta chats pre-Prohibition cocktail fatigue, and why his Espresso Martini recipe is worth replicating. Why is the spritz a huge trend? It’s part of this huge move toward aperitif. Who doesn’t love a Martini? However, there is only so many you can drink before palate fatigue. We’re coming out of a period in cocktails where there was a huge focus on pre-Prohibition cocktails and now I think people’s palates have just gotten a little bit blown away by that, and they want to come back to a more refreshing and ultimately lighter way of enjoying cocktails.

Bombay Sapphire has reinvented its Project Botanicals pop-up event, to be held at the Botanic Gardens Restaurant on Sydney Harbour from the 2-12 March 2017. The interactive dining experience is designed to showcase the ten botanicals of Bombay Sapphire, uncover consumers’ taste preferences and expand their palate when it comes to food and drink pairing. The event emphasises the growing global trend of pairing food with cocktails rather than wine, and will provide inspiration for foodies to follow suit when entertaining at home.

LOCKOUTS CANNED The Queensland Government has voted against the introduction of 1am lockouts, which were to be introduced on 1 February. Cabinet Ministers voted after an interim report into the first six months of the restrictions the Government put in place on 1 July last year. The report found that there was no noticeable reduction in alcohol-related assaults. However, the 3am last drinks rule will be kept in place.

The number of craft distilleries now open and producing spirits across Australia. How many have you tried?

HAVE YOU SEEN BARS&CLUBS ONLINE?

All the latest industry news, along with features, tips and tutorials.

Other global cocktail trends? This isn’t new news for Australia, but the Espresso Martini is coming back in a big way. So how do you make yours? If you ask a chef to make you a drink they always put a pinch of salt in it. And that got me thinking, what does salt do? It amplifies any cocktail and there is beautiful interplay between the bitterness from the espresso and the sweetness from the liqueur. To read the whole interview head to professional.topshelfshow.com.au. BARS&clubs 7

openings

NETHERWORLD

linging open its doors on 7 January, and “crawling out from below the surface of Fortitude Valley”, the team behind Netherworld are ready to show Brisbanites how to have a vintage good time. The bar has a unique selling point: it hosts almost 40 vintage arcade and pinball machines, 100 board games and a selection of classic consoles. A collaboration between actual pinball fanatic James Angliss and The Scratch’s Ben Nichols and Kieran Ryan, Netherworld is influenced by the U.S. gaming bar scene and the iconic Barcade in Brooklyn, 8 BARS&clubs

with the team aiming to create a similar style of venue in their home town. The heritage corner bar also has 24 draft taps with 14 beers from their favourite local and interstate breweries, alongside two Australian ciders. There are handmade sodas, including pineapple and grapefruit that can be “loaded” with house spirits. Cocktails stick to the classics, with Negronis, South Sides, and Old Fashioneds all featuring. The Hellmouth Diner melds playful and mindful eating, boasting big flavours of the best of the American and Japanese food

worlds. There are loads of vegan and glutenfree options for those that have specific dietary needs too. Some of the games include: Ghostbusters, Twilight Zone and Addams Family pinballs; classic arcades like NBA Jam, Street Fighter II, Terminator 2, Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, Donkey Kong, Pacman, Space Invaders, Galaga, and Frogger; and a few consoles for good measure including SNES, Mega Drive, N64, Master System, and Atari. Address: 186 Brunswick St, Fortitude Valley QLD

openings

Elysian Whisky Bar

Kelvin Low and Yao Wong (formerly of Whisky and Alement and Bar White Oak in Melbourne) have opened a cosy neighbourhood whisk(e)y venue featuring a modest but eclectic selection with a focus on independent bottlings – which offer a whole new range of flavours and possibilities that do not exist within the official bottlings of brands. There are also seasonally focused cocktails, and a small, rotating beer list. The capacity of the bar is small, about 35, but designed to enhance the personal interaction between patrons and the bartender. Current snacks include charcuterie and cheeses with dishes like duck liver parfait and home-made terrine appearing soon.

Henry Sugar

The neighbourhood bar is the first joint venture by Kiwi chef Michael Baker (Hell of the North) and bartender Daniel Mason (Cookie, Toff in Town). The cocktail menu, and minimal intervention wine list has been curated with the food menu in mind, and features cocktails like a blend of local moonshine, caraway and pineapple. Lighter alcoholic options also feature prominently, with vermouth, sherry, mistelle and sake all present. The team also make their own sodas using seasonal fruit, carbonated naturally, with rhubarb soda and orange ginger soda featuring so far. Local beers are also available on tap.

The Long Goodbye

Owner Flynn McLennan has recreated an old-school 1940s and 50s cocktail bar vibe, with live jazz and blues on Thursday evenings, and classic cocktails served with house-made liqueurs. McLennan engaged a chemist friend to help develop the range of housemade liqueurs using an ultrasonic machine to infuse flavour in a base liquor. Creations so far include duck fat-washed apricot brandy, strawberry balsamic shrub, and chilli bitters. Signature cocktails are The Long Goodbye (house-made lime syrup, mezcal and mint); Strawberry Blonde (lemon curd, lemon, strawberry, gin, egg white and soda); and Danté’s Sour (black sesame honey, lemon, ginger, rye whiskey and egg white).

Long Chim

Celebrated Australian-born chef David Thompson has opened his first Melbourne restaurant and bar on the Crown Riverwalk. This is his third Long Chim restaurant in Australia, following recent and successful openings in Perth and Sydney. Long Chim means to ‘come and try’, and food dishes include: charred rice noodles with beef and basil; green papaya salad; and grilled pork and banana roti. The cocktail list includes signature drinks such as the rum-based Bangkok Painkiller and gin-based 555, created by head of beverages, James Connolly, along with the unique Or Tor Kor Mule – ginger beer, kaffir lime zest infused vodka and Thai bitters.

Address: 113 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy VIC

Address: 298 Rathdowne Street, Carlton North VIC

Address: 1/83 Stanley St, Darlinghurst NSW

Address: Crown Melbourne, 8 Whiteman St, Southbank VIC

BARS&clubs 9

DANTE’S NEGRONI BIANCO The New York bar’s creation should really be your new favourite modern classic cocktail.

Picture credit: Steve Freihon. 10 BARS&clubs

inspiration

o trip to New York is complete without an afternoon/evening/late night exploring the Negroni menu at Dante. Run by Aussie bartending legend Naren Young, the West Village bar has more than a few gems on offer, including what really should be your new favourite modern classic cocktail: The Negroni Bianco. Perfectly balanced and best made with gin from NYC itself, the Negroni Bianco is a visual feast – those delicate flowers really take it up a notch – as well as a damn tasty drink. Try it yourself with Young’s exact recipe: NEGRONI BIANCO Glass: Nick & Nora Ingredients: • 30ml Brooklyn Gin • 15ml Alessio bianco vermouth • 15ml Carpano dry vermouth • 30ml Quinquina aperitif • 2 dashes of Lemon bitters • 1 dash of Verjus Method: Stir on ice and strain. Garnish: Lemon twist (discard) and a sprig of baby’s breath flowers.

BARS&clubs 11

new faces

Dean Buchanan, Long Chim (WA) I became a bartender because… The freedom of creativity made me fall in love with bartending. My service weapon is… My ability to make multiple drinks at a time for hours without getting stressed. The best part of the industry is… The atmosphere. It’s always fun going to work and getting ready for service (or battle). The worst part is… “Clopen”, when you close the bar and then open the next morning. The international bar I want to visit is… Dead Rabbit in New York. If I could serve someone famous it would be… Tiger Woods. The cocktail I would make cool again is… Foam drinks. I’ve been trying to get a foam on our menu for a while and James Connolly keeps telling me it’s not cool. Drinkers are paying attention to… a higher quality of booze especially in cocktails. If I ruled the world, I would make everyone… drink more tequila and be interested in Australian booze.

Ingrid Archer, House of Correction (VIC) I became a bartender because… When I finished uni I wanted to travel. I needed new experiences and to discover what was further than my French borders. I made myself a new family and found a new passion. My service weapon is… My smile and enthusiasm. Some say the French accent helps. I think so too. The best part of the industry is… The people, the team and the family that this industry is. Being so far from home, I am infinitely thankful. The worst part is… This industry needs to push toward a healthier lifestyle – finding a better balance between the drinking and healthy habits. The international bar I want to visit is… Quinary in Hong Kong. If I could serve someone famous it would be… Sasha Petraska. The cocktail I would make cool again is… 20th Century. If I ruled the world, I would make everyone… Drink all things sherry, read more and say I love you more.

Nick Corletto, Maybe Mae (SA) I became a bartender because… I didn’t sleep many nights when I was 18 and the hours worked with my sleeping pattern at the time. The family I gained and the nature of the industry kept me here far longer. My service weapon is… my work ethic and customer engagement. The best part of the industry is… You never stop learning. The worst part is… The drinkers that only ever go out to get pissed. Drinkers who don’t go out for company, atmosphere, food or music are the ones who often contribute negatively to Australian drinking culture; and we all suffer for that. The international bar I want to visit is… Milk & Honey. If I could serve someone famous it would be… Stan Lee. The cocktail I would make cool again is… Piña Coladas. They’re goddamn delicious. If I ruled the world, I would make everyone… Be good to each other and drink more sherry.

Roy Subhankar, Long Chim (NSW) I became a bartender because… I came to Australia to study hospitality and worked as a barback to support myself. Soon enough I realised my true passion for bartending. My service weapon is… I can professionally make drinks quickly yet keep them consistent. The best part of the industry is… The ability to be creative and experiment with a huge variety of flavours and textures. The worst part is… Working the long weekend hours. The international bar I want to visit is… Dead Rabbit in New York and High Five in Tokyo. If I could serve someone famous it would be… Gordon Ramsay. The cocktail I would make cool again is… The Rusty Nail and the Bloody Mary. Drinkers are paying attention to… The background of the spirits and the types of beers they are drinking. If I ruled the world, I would make everyone… Have food, shelter and fresh drinking water.

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classic cocktail

SINGAPORE SLING I

f any drink has come to symbolise the height of colonial chic, it has to be the Singapore Sling. Brightly coloured and reminiscent of the tiki drinks of the Caribbean with its pineapple garnish, the Singapore Sling was – according to history – created in 1915 at the Raffles Hotel is Singapore by bartender Ngiam Tong Boon. In colonial Singapore, Raffles was the gathering place for rich and well-to-do expats, and the Long Bar was the spot they chilled out. There was also a Billiards Room but rumour has it they kept a real live tiger chained up in there so… There was also a really fun etiquette rule in place that dictated that ladies couldn’t be seen to be drinking alcohol in public. Hence a pretty pink, gin-spiked pineapple juice concoction became very popular, very quickly. It’s also a rather humid place, so the refreshing nature of the Singapore Sling certainly increased its popularity. BUT WHERE DOES IT COME FROM? Originally based on, and marketed as, a Gin Sling – an American cocktail that was basically gin and water that was sweetened – the recipe that Raffles now touts as the ‘original’ is reportedly based on the memories of former bartenders and a few scribbled notes that were uncovered in the bar on the back of a napkin. This recipe was documented in Savoy Cocktail Book as early as 1930, cementing its classic status.

SINGAPORE SLING Glass: Hurricane Ingredients: • 45ml Gin • 15ml Cherry Heering • 10ml Cointreau • 10ml Benedictine • 120ml Pineapple juice • 15ml Lime juice • 10ml Grenadine • 1 dash of Angostura bitters Method: Fill a shaker with ice and add all the ingredients. Shake thoroughly to ensure a nice creamy froth. Pour into the glass and serve. Garnish: Pineapple wedge and maraschino cherry.

RECIPE DISCREPANCIES However, there are a few issues with the current official recipe, and the historical record – isn’t there always? According to Business Week in 1932 the recipe was as follows: “Mix 2 oz. Boodles British Gin, 1 oz. cherry brandy, 1 oz. lemon juice; pour over ice in a tumbler and add a splash of soda”. That version was backed up by Hotel & Restaurant Employees and Bartenders International Union in 1941, with Boodles apparently becoming the ‘official’ gin in the drink as early as 1938. Then, to throw in another spanner, cocktail historian David Wondrich believes that the while the ‘official’ Singapore Sling may have originated in the Long Bar, the drink was around much earlier. In fact, as early as the late 1800s the concept of the Sling – or at least the English version of the American drink that had fruit juice added to make it more of a punch – was already universal in bars across the colonial outpost of Singapore. BARS&clubs 13

THE PANEL • Alissa Gabriel, Charlie Parker’s • Tom Pigott, Uncle Hops • Alexandra Cowan, The Sheaf • Drue Stevens, Clock Hotel • Glynn Firth, Solotel Beverage Manager • Jeremy Shipley, Solotel Group Bars Manager • Steve Davis, Opera Bar • Stefanie Collins, BARS&clubs

14 BARS&clubs

round table

A SUSTAINABLE FUTURE The bar industry is an inherently wasteful one – so what can we do, as an industry, to combat that and create a more sustainable future for bars? WHY IS SUSTAINABILITY IMPORTANT? WHAT IS DRIVING THE CONVERSATION? DS: It’s really easy to produce a lot of waste in this industry. Glass bottles, straws, the fruit that we throw in drinks. It’s better to get it in check and under control. AG: Just the amount of waste that the hospitality industry sends to landfill is astronomical. Sustainability is a mission that you have to constantly work toward, but I think this industry is definitely moving toward more sustainable thinking around how we create drinks and how we operate. JS: I think you have to give the boys from White Lyon and Dandylyon props for bringing it to our minds. The waste that we have at our bigger venues is phenomenal. Anything we can do to chip away at it is really important to us. AC: I think external factors are putting pressure on a lot of businesses to create a more sustainable offering. Before it was about making the most money and offering the best prices but now there are a whole lot of other factors at play and people are more concerned about how sustainable they are. TOP DOWN? OR BOTTOM UP? JS: From our point of view, it’s got to come from everywhere. It’s like anything, the people at the top can bleat on about something but if you don’t get a buy in from the team on the ground who is making drinks every single day, there’s no point. AG: You have to have team passion. It’s one thing to say you’re going to start, but unless everyone gets behind it, it

gets lost. We’ve gotten so lazy with our thinking behind the bar that we need that little bit of a push. We sat down for four hours last Thursday because even though our drinks are zero waste, there are a lot of other things. We have to reprint the restaurant menus everyday – what about all the paper? Can we soda water on tap so we’re not getting those extra glass bottles? There a lots of tiny little issues that, together, will start to minimise the whole waste output. TP: I think it’s something that is already in their minds. I’ve had a couple of the team already ask why we’re using straws in every drink. So I think it’s something that they are already thinking about. One thing that we have been talking about is the disposable cups that are biodegradable – why can’t the straw companies do that? We have paper straws but they don’t hold up in drinks – is there a way to change the way they’re made? HOW FAR SHOULD WE TAKE IT? SD: When you listen to Iain Griffiths you think, ‘That’s incredible” but when you try to extrapolate that, you can’t just take that garnish and throw it in a bucket with unused wine and in a week have melon vermouth. If you have a clean conscience that you’re doing as much as you can within the parameters of your business, that’s okay. If you can successfully ask the question: could I be doing more? Then do more. As the conversation changes and people’s perception changes on a wider societal level, we can move with that. AC: Napkins is a tough one because in

BARS&clubs 15

It’s really easy to produce a lot of waste in this industry. Glass bottles, straws, the fruit that we throw in drinks. It’s better to get it in check and under control. Drue Stevens, Clock Hotel

If you have a clean conscience that you’re doing as much as you can within the parameters of your business, that’s okay. If you can successfully ask the question: could I be doing more? Then do more. Steve Davis, Opera Bar

“We’ve gotten so lazy with our thinking behind the bar that we need that little bit of a push. There a lots of tiny little issues that, together, will start to minimise the whole waste output.”

Getting rid of straws is great but having that conversation over and over when you’re busy? I think to move on this as an industry we would need all of the smaller bars on board first. Glynn Firth, Solotel Beverage Manager

Alissa Gabriel, Charlie Parker’s

Start in one part of the bar with no straws. Then run a “more sustainable bar” social media campaign so people start talking about it. Then slowly phase straws out – we don’t have to wait. Drue Stevens, Clock Hotel

I think you have to give the boys from White Lyon and Dandylyon props for bringing it to our minds. The waste that we have at our bigger venues is phenomenal. Anything we can do to chip away is really important to us. Jeremy Shipley, Solotel Group Bars Manager

16 BARS&clubs

“Before it was about making the most money and offering the best prices but now there are a whole lot of other factors at play and people are more concerned about how sustainable they are.” Alexandra Cowan, The Sheaf

round table

my experience, customers just have an insatiable want for napkins. People are talking about sustainability but I don’t know if customers have made that link to the hospitality industry, and if they’re aware enough of that to not ask for the things that are super wasteful. So whether we need to be creating more awareness. SC: So is there more we can be doing to educate customers, whether it is through social media or inserts in menus? AC: Yes, definitely. The more people become aware of it, the less they demand those wasteful things of the businesses that we’re involved in, and the more we can do. DS: I think the dollar value part of it is massive. When I was at one of my old venues we were looking at getting Who Gives A Crap toilet paper, it suited our narrative and is responsible. But when it came down to it, it would triple the price of toilet paper in our venue, so we had to pass. Which sucks. AG: As much as we do care about the planet, if it is not something that you can buy for cheaper than you would buy the problem, then you’re just going to continue using the problem. GF: Getting rid of straws is great but having that conversation over and over when you’re busy? I think to move on this as an industry we would need all of the smaller bars on board first. People in The Sheaf, their drink is the third or fourth thing on their list, they don’t want to have a conversation about straws. SD: It’s also a bit of a chicken and egg scenario but – I can’t believe I’m saying this – if we as the bigger venues actually did this, it would be a painful six months to a year of having the, “Why don’t you have straws” conversation 1500 times a day, but it would probably actually affect change quicker. TP: We actually have a great avenue for “no straws” within Solotel. We have The Whisky Room in the Clock or Uncle Hops in The Bank – the barwithin-bar scenario. Start there with no straws. Then run a “sustainable bar” social media campaign so people start talking about it. Then slowly phase straws out in the whole venue

– we don’t have to wait for a small bar to do it, because we already have a small bar inside our big bar. JS: It’s testing the waters in some of our bigger venues too. But I’m concerned that we don’t want to have to be in that scenario where we don’t want to have to preach to people either. They might be on a Tinder date – they don’t need this shit. AG: We actually had an idea for that for raising awareness without shoving it in people’s faces: imagine you walk into a venue and there is a giant glass vase that is filled with broken bottles, and a little sign that says: This much waste is from one week. People might not even read it but it can potentially start a conversation. WHAT IS THE FUTURE? BARS WITH NO ICE, NO NAPKINS, AND NO GARNISHES? OR IS THAT TOO FAR REMOVED FROM WHAT CONSUMERS WANT? SD: People want to do a shallow dive into whatever the fad thing is, not that this is a fad, but no one is drinking at White Lyan four nights a week. AG: No one is drinking there anymore because it’s not open. Is there a reason? Was it too forward thinking and people just weren’t ready for it? AC: There has to be a happy medium. I think the first step is food wastage and garnishes. Then the next step is napkins and straws, taking baby steps. JS: It’s also 35 degrees outside today and I don’t want to go to a bar with no ice. It’s a perception thing. Would you feel comfortable serving a drink with no ice? What do you think your guests would do? They’d blow up. We’re light years away from that. SC: But is this the future when it comes to using less energy in bars? That’s another whole issue for the industry. SD: To be fair, using water, as a resource (in a totally white privileged way) is super easy in Australia. If you can offset or be completely independent of your power usage, then there is no issue with ice. Not saying every pub should go out and put solar panels on their roof – but they could, they’re big flat spaces that get sun. I’ll just wack some on the sides of the sails of the Opera House.

But be smarter about it and still give your guests something in line with their expectations. JS: I think we could be a lot better about power. We’ve got lights on outside during the day. And I think that just comes down to managers walking in and having their robotic checklist because that is what has always happened and no one has ever challenged it. It’s challenging that status quo of, “Oh that’s what I was told to do when I first started”. We can do better. And that is an easy win that we can have off the bat. Then we look at the straws and the napkins. TP: Air con is the biggest one for me. People putting the air con on in the bar and leaving the doors open – I just hear my dad in the back of my head, “Air con lockdown time. Close all the doors. Close all the windows”. Some days I’ve walked in and there are big windows open onto the deck and the air con is blaring. What’s the bloody point? SD: Common sense is hard to expect in people. If we could all be a bit smarter, that would be good but it would really require reframing a lot of people – because you always set up for the busiest part of the day so that no one forgets to turn the lights on at 5pm when they’re busy and all of a sudden it gets dark. SC: So is that the required investment to begin with? Are you, as managers, going to have to spend six months having the same conversation again and again and again, but eventually it sticks. Then for your newbies, that is the conversation they have heard right from the beginning so it’s embedded in them straight away. So is that the sort of investment operators and managers need to make from now? AG: Yes – and just the fact that we are here right now having this discussion is amazing. This is the start and this is what needs to happen more often. That’s how we start it. We need to help each other. We just have to start somewhere. There is a lot more to this conversation, around supporting brands who support bars, shaking up waste disposal, and how buying spirits in kegs might not be such a bad idea. Head to professional.topshelfshow. com.au/category/features to read more.

BARS&clubs 17

“I just love hospitality and what you get to produce inside hospitality every day – you get to give people an amazing experience.”

18 BARS&clubs

operator profile

JARED MERLINO The operator behind some of the best bars in Sydney, and indeed Australia, sat down with us to chat about what he has learned and the mistakes he made when he first started out.

ared Merlino’s career in hospitality got off to a bit of a different start to most, when his sister started a gentleman’s club on Sydney’s Pitt Street. Lucky for Merlino, one of the kitchenhands called in sick and his sister asked if he was interested in covering the shift. “I said, ‘I will do anything to work in a strip club’,” says Merlino. “So I went in there and started scrubbing pots and hanging out in the kitchen. Just to work in a strip club.” He was in the kitchen for about eight months before moving out to the bar. “I just loved hospitality and the lifestyle, and what you get to produce inside hospitality every day – you get to give people an amazing time and you get to give people an amazing experience,” he says. From there he went to work for Merivale, starting as a barback and winding up running Ivy Pool Bar for six years. “It was a long road to get where I am now,” he says. “But it’s been pretty good.” BIG BAR GROUPS EQUAL LOTS OF EXPERIENCE Merlino firmly believes that the experiences he gained at Merivale set him – and a lot of others – up for success in their own operations. “Merivale is the breeding ground of a lot of the great managers,” he says. “You learn systems, you learn how to work in big teams and small teams. You learn everything – how to do the cellar, pokies, accommodation, food, and beverage. The whole thing.”

Moving through a range of venues, including Main Bar, the Wynyard Hotel and Pool Bar meant that he learned just how vital Merivale’s systems are to the group’s success. “Justin has a bit of blueprint on how to roll out a business and how the teams grow and deal with that growth at the same time, so

STAFF DO’S AND DON’TS

• “People are key. You have to have the right people in the right positions. In the first six months of Lobo we went through quite a few people that weren’t a good fit. So I thought a lot more about it this time.” • “Finding them can be a bit tricky in a tough marketplace but we have a strong brand. Our key value is pride. Are you proud of what you do? When we bring people in, we give them a spiel on our values and what we’re trying to achieve, and you see a lot of them drop off. The people that don’t are the keepers. The ones that want to buy into your culture are the people you want.” • “People come to us because of the brand. Keeping them there is about keeping them engaged. There is the incentive for people to develop into award-winning bartenders and really put themselves into a position where they’re known in the industry.”

I learned a lot about systems, I learned a lot about how to manage your numbers to make sure a business operates efficiently and profitably.” More than that, he learned how to manage people – a necessary skill now he is running three venues of his own. YOUR BAR IS A BUSINESS “I think that all the people who are successful in our industry are businessmen and not bartenders being businessmen,” says Merlino. “I don’t mean that there aren’t successful bartenders. I just mean that as owners, taking that step from bartender into that role is difficult if you don’t have some level of managerial training, or a business degree, or something at that level that allows you to understand that there are costs to a business that you don’t foresee unless you have that experience.” He goes on to explain that the number of hidden overheads and costs in simply signing a lease and seeking out a licence, can take a huge chunk out of your opening budget – and that’s before you’ve even started fitting out the venue. Then once you’re open, there is a lot that can affect your profitability. “On a business the size of Kittyhawk, the electricity and the gas and the water for a site this size are huge,” he says. “And if you don’t factor them into the way you run your business, and into the percentage targets of your business, your profitability can bottom out and you can be done in a very short amount of time. BARS&clubs 19

Kittyhawk “It is something that I think can be the downfall of anyone trying to make that step from bartender to bar owner. You have to try and learn as much about being a business owner as you do bartending, I think that is instrumental in how successful you can be.” SOMETIMES YOU WING IT Merlino says that while he took a lot of what he knew from Merivale and his business management degree, he had never opened a venue before Lobo Plantation – which meant he had to wing it on some things.

“I did call upon a few mates that had done things – the Swillhouse guys were helpful when I had a couple of questions here and there,” he says. “A lot of it was winging it though. A lot of it was just trying to use my understanding of numbers and business to understand how to run a team and how to run a big venue like Pool Club.” But as he points out: when you’re the head of the whole team, there are a lot more questions you have to come up with the answers for. “A lot of it was trial and error. With the first 18 months of Lobo, I

Kittyhawk 20 BARS&clubs

was there every day – day-in, dayout – watching it. And you live and you learn. You make one decision and it fails. Or maybe it succeeds and you follow that path. “You look at every number. A lot of the time I spent was looking at how to make it most cost effective and pay down the debt as fast as possible, but also to build a solid product that would become an institution. We wanted Lobo to become something that would be there for 20 years.” BE CLEAR ABOUT YOUR AIMS “It’s about the attention to detail. It’s about those little things that make you stand out,” says Merlino. “There are a hundred different operators every other week that are opening. It’s those little things when you walk into Lobo.” Merlino says that the aim when opening Lobo Plantation was very clear from the beginning: building the biggest collection of rum they possibly could, and backing that up with extensive staff knowledge and engagement. “We spent a lot of money and a lot of effort on training the team to understand rum and how it is produced and how you get different flavour notes etc.,” he explains. “And that level of knowledge and detail makes all the difference to the guests.”

operator profile

“In the first 18 months of

Lobo Plantation, I was there every day – dayin, day-out. Watching it.

And you live and you learn. You make one decision and it fails. Or maybe it succeeds, and you

follow that path.”

Once that was down, the aim was on building a solid, core team, to take the bar to the next level. “When Dre [Walters] and Paige [Aubort] and I all came together as the management team, we really started to kick some solid goals and get the recognition in the industry, he says. “And once you get the industry people singing your praises, then it helps to get it out there to the market as well. “So it’s been a solid three years for Lobo and it’s cemented itself now as a bit of an institution on the market. It’s a great little spot.” THE DEVIL IS IN THE DETAIL “I was on the ground for both Kittyhawk and Big Poppa’s. Every day,” Merlino says. “And the result is now that the detail Kittyhawk and the detail in Poppa’s is exactly how I envisaged it.” He says that while everyone might not appreciate every little detail, it’s there, and the bars are therefore designed to last for the next 20 years. “By being on the ground you’re able to make sure that everything – down to the millimetre – is exactly how you want it, so that the room flows right, so that the bar’s set right. The speed of a bar can come down to every little millimetre of how you design it.” Merlino explains that he sat down with the team from Lobo and they

GET THE

EXPERIENCE FIRST

“There are a lot of ambitious bartenders who want to own bars. There is a big difference between the two. I was lucky enough to spend a long amount of time in a company with a lot of systems and I got to learn the back end. If you can do that – learn how to manage your numbers and what things cost before you look at leases and licences. If you don’t have an understanding of that, there is a high likelihood of failure. Being a great bartender is fantastic and will take you a long way. It is a foundation for a great business if you have that reputation, but where I have tripped up is where I didn’t try and learn something before opening the business. Get out there and take a less glamourous role and learn as much as you can.”

Lobo Plantation went through every detail to create what they saw as the perfect bar design for Kittyhawk. Because, while Lobo is great for its size – there are always tiny details that he thinks he can improve on. “When you work at Kittyhawk you’re never leaning forward. Because we’ve got the bar depth to the point that you should never lean, but you’ve still got all the space to have your garnishes, there is the right amount of space for your crushed ice, your cubed ice. “It just comes down to all those little things that add up to the speed and ergonomics of a bar. And anyone who has worked behind any bar for a length of time would have a hundred different things they want to change about the setup of that bar. So that’s just something that you apply to the next one and they all get more and more efficient as you go.” BARS&clubs 21

Picture credit: Daniel Boud 22 BARS&clubs

world class

MEET NATALIE NG The new World Class ambassador for Australia tells us all about why she has taken on her new role, how World Class changed her bartending career for the better, and why you should enter the 2017 competition.

What attracted you to the role? It was an exciting chance to work on such an amazing global program. To me as a bartender, World Class was and is the biggest cocktail competition in the world. Heading the program and getting the opportunity to work with some inspiring people and mentors as well as throw in some ideas of my own has been a dream come true. What are you hoping to achieve in the role? I’m hoping to be able to make World Class 2017 the best and most memorable to date. I’m extremely excited to announce that we’re rolling out a brand new training platform called World Class Studios. It was only available in the US and a huge hit. I guess you could describe it as a “How to Win a Cocktail Competition” session, but on a whole higher level, unlike anything we have ever seen before in Australia. I cannot wait to see bartender’s reactions at these World Class Studios, I sat through the session myself, hosted by John Gakuru, and I was absolutely blown away. These studios also ensure that even if you don’t get into our Top 100, you will have definitely learned to be a more rounded bartender, and that winning drinks are not just about what is in the glass, but about the drinking experience in its entirety. What are you looking forward to the most? Getting round to the different states, especially places we don’t get to spend much time in

WORLD

CLASS AUSTRALIA

usually, like WA or SA, and meeting new faces. I always love listening and mentoring bartenders through and then seeing their final creations. Oh and of course looking forward to the global final in Mexico City this year. What do you think World Class can offer to bartenders who enter? Having been a finalist myself in the past, you will be amazed at what you can achieve. World Class not only pushes you to be better, but you learn so much throughout it. I was quite a nervous person when I was younger, and competitions like World Class made me a more confident person. But being part of World Class is not just about pushing yourself, it also connects you to likeminded peers. You become part of the World Class family. It is always such a great feeling to witness competitors helping and cheering each other on. Yes it is a

World Class Australia entries are now open, and will close on 17 March 2017. To enter, head to www. theworldclassclub.com and click on ‘enter competition’. Select Australia as your country of representation then complete the online entry form. What are you waiting for?

competition at the end of the day, but the comradery is second to none. Why is it important for bartenders to get involved in programs like this? It puts you on the radar for whatever you might want to accomplish in your career. Bartenders that make it to the top mostly become household and even global names. You will be surprised at yourself, where it might take you and what you can accomplish. Being a bartender has taken me to some amazing places around the world that I might have never seen. I don’t think I would have gotten this far in my hospitality career if I didn’t enter comps like World Class as it led me to meet some very amazing people that helped me along. What can we expect in the Australian competition this year? I don’t want to give too much away but expect it to be massive. We want every bartender that is passionate about their craft to enter and see if they have what it takes. Make sure to look out for the World Class Studios, you don’t want to miss out on that. We are giving away a once in a lifetime trip to some of the most amazing distilleries and places in Scotland, as well as giving our winner all the kit to look the part and set them up for success at the global final in Mexico City this year. BARS&clubs 23

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the bartender’s bible promotion

THE BARTENDER’S BIBLE The only reference you need for 2017 is right here – from spirits to mixers to beers and everything in between. BARS&clubs 25

WHITER SHADE OF PALE

The new, the innovative and the classic white spirits (and one sneaky amaro) you need on your back bar.

PATRÓN SILVER Un-aged and known for its light, fresh, and clear look, Patrón Silver is perfect for blending with a high quality mixer or easily sipped. Characterised by its lemon and white pepper aroma, this 100 per cent pure Weber blue agave tequila has a smooth and sweet taste of fresh agave and hints of citrus. Patrón is the world’s number 1 selling ultrapremium tequila. Since day one, Patrón Tequila has always started with 100 per cent pure Weber blue agave – harvested, roasted, crushed, distilled and bottled in the hills of Jalisco, Mexico. Employing traditional techniques and modern technology, Patrón has refined and perfected the art of making tequila.

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HUSK PURE CANE NEW MAKE Pure Cane New Make is the first product release from the North Coast Bar Series of fresh, young agricole rums and cane spirits designed to be mixed in simple, refreshing ways that highlight the flavour and style of Northern NSW. It is about provenance and a sense of place, connecting all the elements – the salt sea air, fertile volcanic soil, and pristine water. Pure Cane is perfect for Mojitos and Daiquiris, as well as with ginger beer and a squeeze of lime for a Light & Stormy. Or try a Cabarita Caipirinha with lime, Autralian honey, and garnished with grilled sugar cane.

the bartender’s bible promotion STAR OF BOMBAY

BACARDÍ CARTA BLANCA

42BELOW VODKA

In operation for almost three and half centuries, the gin stills of distilling pioneer Thomas Dakin are the stuff of legend. Which is why, when the stills first became ensconced at the Laverstoke Mill in Hampershire, England, Master Distiller Nik Fordham was inspired to create a new variation on Dakin’s original 1761 recipe. Joining forces with Master of Botanicals Ivano Tonutti, he took Bombay Sapphire’s existing signature botanicals and elevated them by introducing two new hand-selected botanicals: bergamot orange peel – which lends a hint of spicy citrus – and aromatic Ecuadorian ambrette seeds – that give a floral muskiness. The result is a gin like no other.

In 1960, when the revolutionary regime in Cuba illegally confiscated all the Bacardí Company’s Cuban assets, forcing them into exile, the family lost its business and its home, but not the recipe for making the world’s most awarded rum. Part of the secret that makes Bacardí Rum taste the same today, as it did over 150 years ago, is the signature strain of yeast isolated by Don Facundo Bacardí Massó. It is this, along with the unique filtration process he created – with a secret mix of charcoals – that ensures that every drop of Bacardí rum tastes exactly as Don Facundo Bacardí Massó crafted it over 150 years ago, a legacy that will continue through each new generation.

42 Below started with Geoff Ross sitting on a plane in 1999 reading a magazine about some supposedly pure vodka from a pure country. He thinks that is stupid because obviously New Zealand is better so he decides to make his own. Fast-forward to 2004-5 and Ross packs in his day job to make vodka full time. A bunch of ads are made that offend some quite famous people and they accidentally become one of the world’s first viral campaigns. 42 Below wins all of the spirits comps and goes global. Fast forward again and now 42 Below is encouraging bartenders to keep their own environments pure and sustainable (and still making great vodka).

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APPLEWOOD DISTILLERY ØKAR

APPLEWOOD DISTILLERY GIN

This Australian amaro takes a local spin on the tradition, which is perfect since dry aperitifs epitomise the renaissance in contemporary Australian drinking. It’s also perfect since 90 per cent of native botanicals are also intensely bitter. And one native ingredient stands out – riberry (or lilly pilly). The riberry’s cranberry-tartness, hints of clove and bark-like bitterness make it well-suited for an Australian aperitif, alongside lemon myrtle, gentian root, liquorice root, wormwood, sweet orange peel, cassia bark and cinchona bark (to name a few). Økar is a low alcohol (12%) aperitif, best served as a spritzer with sparkling wine, a dash of soda and a crushed lemon myrtle leaf.

When Applewood Distillery first imported its still equipment in 2012, the team’s intent was always to play around with gin and whisky. And now, after three years of trial batch upon trial batch upon more trial batches, they are, in their own words “astoundingly happy” with the result. Which is a citrus-driven and floral gin that has an interplay of fragrance, depth and vibrancy inspired by spring in the Adelaide Hills. The gin is created from a grape-based spirit and uses a broad range of botanicals, including: juniper, coriander, angelica root, ginger, lemon myrtle, earl grey tea, lavender, vanilla, cardamom, macadamia, lemon and orange.

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the bartenderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bible promotion

EAST IMPERIAL Back in 1825, British Army officers stationed in India combined quinine, sugar and water in an attempt to create a daily tonic to act as a malaria prophylaxis. Gin was later added to the mix to mask the strong and bitter taste of the quinine water. 189 years on, the quintessential gin and tonic has come a very long way. But not necessarily in a good way. Overly sweet citric acid soft drinks have replaced genuine, traditional tonic water. These modern drinks completely mask the herbaceous aromas of premium gin and other spirits, manipulating the role that tonic water now plays in modern mixology. But the most discerning patrons and barmen are demanding superior quality beverages to complement premium spirits. Inspired by a 1903 recipe, East Imperial Tonic Waters are small batched and blended using all natural Asian sourced ingredients, New Zealand artesian spring water and a cold filtered process. This traditional method of production ensures that the freshness and the subtleties of the botanicals are protected, taking tonic water back to its origins. The range includes: Old World Tonic, Burma Tonic Water, Yuzu Tonic Water, Grapefruit Tonic Water, Mombasa Ginger Beer, Thai Dry Ginger Ale, and Soda Water.

bars&clubs 29

STIR MIX-A-LOT Mixers are the new black with premium products making this category the most interesting it has been in decades (and yes, beer can be a mixer).

MONIN SYRUPS Monin syrups have been on the market for over a century. They are produced with an undeniable quality and with the finest natural ingredients from all places in the world. Dissolving instantly, Monin syrups are practical for a bar or restaurant setting and versatile for use in a variety of recipes. Monin Pure Cane Syrup, is a premium simple syrup made from all-natural pure cane sugar, and is perfect for any application from sweetening lemonades to creating your own Margarita mix. Monin Agave Nectar Syrup is made from organic agave nectar, a natural sweetener produced in Mexico from several species of agave plants. Sweeter than sugar, Monin Agave Syrup allows operators to achieve the same level of sweetness with a smaller amount ofÂ product.

30 bars&clubs

the bartender’s bible promotion

TEMPLE BICYCLE BEER

BONAL APERITIF

A crisp, fresh summer ale. Temple’s own custom blend of seven hops gives a fresh, spicy hop aroma and a smooth flavour with subtle overtones of citrus and summer fruits. The brewing process enhances the mild hop profile, and complements the soft malt character while leaving a dry finish on the palate. It’s designed to quench your thirst and is light enough to get you back on your bike. Awarded bronze in the English Summer Ale category at the 2015 Australian International Beer Awards, Bicycle Beer weighs in at 4.2% ABV with a mild 21 IBU (International Bitterness Units) level.

Created by Hyppolite Bonal – an 18th century orphan, monk and pharmacist who studied at the Grande Chartreuse monastery – in 1865, Bonal was popular with sportsmen, and became an early sponsor of the Tour de France. It is made by an infusion of gentian, cinchona (quinine) and herbs from the Grand Chartreuse Mountains in a mistelle base. Traditionally enjoyed neat or with a twist; it also may enhance classic drinks in place of sweet red vermouth. It has an aroma of prune and grapefruit and finishes with a pleasantly bitter-sweet, earthy and root-like palate, with a faint quinine and grapefruit aftertaste.

ONYX ESPRESSO MARTINI COFFEE A premium cold brew coffee with an outstanding flavour complexity and mouth-feel, Onyx is perfect for Espresso Martinis. Created by Mitch Faulkner, co-author of the best-selling coffee book Barista Coffee, he has over 10 years’ experience in coffee, has assisted an Australian distiller to develop a gold medal-winning coffee liqueur, and is pretty proud of the Celtic Fusion Stout he brews every year with Six String in NSW. Onyx’s coffee is roasted to perfection – farm to cup – and the team is constantly tasting new coffees from all over the globe to maintain the exacting quality of its cold brew.

bars&clubs 31

FEE BROTHERS Looking for the very best in cocktail mixes, bitters and cordial syrups? How about brines or botanical waters? Look no further than Fee Brothers. Whether a bar, restaurant or cafe, Fee Brothers is the place to turn to make sure you get the best beverage products for your customers. You can count on Fee Brothers to meet your needs and your customers’ tastes. The company has been perfecting the art of drink mixers for nearly 150 years. Consider the bitters range your “spice rack behind the bar”, with everything you need including: rhubarb, plum, peach, mint, cherry, grapefruit, orange and cranberry bitters. A family business since 1864, Fee Brothers is now owned and operated by Ellen and Joe Fee, the fourth generation of the Fee family. Furthering their family’s legacy, Ellen and Joe have expanded the flavour range of the company, which is now at almost 100 products. Anyone can make a mixed drink. It takes experts to produce the right drink mix.

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the bartender’s bible promotion

LITTLE DRIPPA As with most products, Little Drippa started out of necessity. Founder Lewis Kneale was general manager for a venue in Melbourne when he discovered cold drip coffee, and was soon supplying it to 10 bars within his area. Over a six month period Kneale worked with the help of a number of industry professionals – Nick Selvadurai, Daniel Monk, Chris Hysted, Russ McFadden, Sean Baxter and Alex Ross, just to name a few – to refine the flavour profile. It became clear that one of the most crucial parts was the crema, so Kneale engaged the help of food scientists. After over 400 beans, grinds and roasts they came up with the recipe that is used today. All of the beans are sustainably sourced and Little Drippa makes every effort to ensure that the farmers get a fair deal. Where possible, Little Drippa deals directly with the farms to ensure the best possible product and to ensure that the bean growers get the best treatment. To date, over 1100 different beans, grinds and roasts have been tested to find the best result for your Espresso Martini. Little Drippa ensures a consistent crema and consistent flavour in every cocktail.

bars&clubs 33

LIQUID GOLD Any bartender worth their salt knows the importance of a good stash of liqueurs to use in their cocktail creations â&#x20AC;&#x201C; have you covered all your flavour bases?

APPLEWOOD DISTILLERY ESPRESSOCELLO A project of pure passion thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s taken years to perfect, this liqueur is made alongside Mighty Mighty Coffee which roasts and grinds the beans for this liqueur on-site at the distillery. Espressocello is made using distilled spirit sourced from local winemakers that have had winemaking experiments go awry, with coffee beans imported exclusively from Mexico. The brandy-base spirit, created from the wine, is cold-dripped through the coffee beans over 24 hours, and then cold-brew is used to dilute it to the proper strength. The result: an intense coffee-hit with a vanilla, chocolate and citrus dominant characters, and a dense palateweight perfect for any cocktail.

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the bartender’s bible promotion ESPRIT DE FIGUES

ALIZÉ BLEU

ST-GERMAIN

Esprit de Figues is crafted in France, from a recipe that was refined over seven years of research and development. Using traditional French techniques, Violette de Bordeaux figs are carefully infused for three months in a 150-year-old distillery in Burgundy. The rich dark purple colour in the bottle softens to a pale mauve when poured, with sweet fresh figs giving way to berry jam, honey and vanilla on the nose. The palate offers fresh fig and raspberry jam with a hint of peach and honey. Esprit de Figues is specifically designed to be mixed, holding its flavour and its stunning purple hue in both simple mixed drinks and creative cocktails.

Inspired by the gentle trade winds of the tropics and the joie de vivre of the French, Alizé is an explosive blend of premium French Cognac and other spirits, and fresh tropical juices from exotic islands. Alizé is deeply entrenched in the underground music movement with over 200 hip hop and R&B songs paying tribute to it. Alizé is so versatile it can be used with most mixers, other spirits and liqueurs or simply on its own over ice. Alizé Bleu brings together premium French vodka, Cognac, passionfruit, cherry, ginger and other exotic fruit juices.

Ironically, for a liqueur destined to assist in the slowing down and savouring of the moment, St-Germain begins with a race against time in the few weeks in the spring when fresh wild elderflower blossoms can be gathered. Elderflowers are maddeningly ephemeral once picked, quickly losing their delicate fragrance. So, in just a few short weeks, all of the elderflowers that will become St-Germain for that year are harvested. That is why each bottle of StGermain is individually numbered: to reflect the year in which the flowers were picked. The taste hints at pear, peach and grapefruit, yet none of them exactly. It is as subtle and delicate as it is captivating.

bars&clubs 35

AMARO MONTENEGRO

TUACA

AGWA COCA LEAF LIQUOR

Amaro Montenegro’s tale begins over 130 years ago with Stanislao Cobianchi, a noble of Bologna, defying his parents’ wishes and leaving home to travel. He returned to his hometown filled with inspiration, opening a distillery and pioneering an amaro that perfectly balances bitter and sweet flavours, dedicating it to Princess Elena of Montenegro. The recipe has remained the same since 1885 – 40 herbs and spices are macerated for up to 30 days before it is distilled and blended with water from Italy’s Gran Sasso Mountains. Then one last secret ingredient is added to create the amaro that is beloved of bartenders everywhere.

Tuaca is a striking blend of vanilla, Mediterranean citrus fruit and rich brandy. The original Tuaca recipe was created more than 500 years ago, during the Italian Renaissance, when Lorenzo de Medici, ruled Florence, Italy. He assumed this responsibility from his father at the age of 20 and unlike many of his contemporaries, who favoured war and bloodshed, Lorenzo respected the arts. He became a generous benefactor to the great artists of the period including Michelangelo, da Vinci and Botticelli. Tuaca has a smooth, complex taste that delivers an intriguingly spicy fruit-based flavour with subtle hints of hazelnut, coconut and cocoa.

The original coca leaf liqueur, Agwa is crafted in Amsterdam from authentic Bolivian coca leaves, blended with 36 separate herbs and botanicals including ginseng, green tea, lavender and guarana to product a 30.0% ABV product in a bespoke distillation process. Agwa ‘glows’ when frozen, intensifying the colour and flavour which comes through as a frozen ‘hit’. A powerful aroma disguises the subtle bitter sweet taste, packed with flavours from a clever blend of herbs, driven by the unique coca leaf. Enjoyable on its own, over ice or Agwa is also a versatile cocktail ingredient.

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STAR OF BOMBAY The Star of Bombay botanical recipe is a blend of 12 exotic hand selected botanicals from the Mediterranean and the tropics. It comprises the 10 botanicals found in Bombay Sapphire Gin, with the addition of ambrette seed (Ecuador) and orange bergamot (Italy). The ambrette seed supports the earthy/ musky/forest floor notes of angelica, while the orange bergamot adds a wonderfully bright, ethereal burst of orange and grapefruit citrus to support the coriander seed. On top of the two new botanicals master distiller, Nik Fordham, also up-weighted the quantities of coriander and angelica, as well as using a blend of ripe and unripened juniper berries to define the Star of Bombay flavour profile. Unlike other gins – which sometimes crudely boil their botanicals – all the flavour notes in Star of Bombay are slowly vapourinfused through a copper basket, under carefully controlled temperatures and then meticulously tested to ensure each essence is perfectly captured.

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YO HO HO & A BOTTLE OF SCOTCH Australia is a dark spirits loving nation - from rum to whisk(e)y and everything in between.

BACARDÍ FUEGO Bacardí Fuego is a newly released spiced rum that has been aged in charred oak barrels. Blended with a selection of spices, Bacardí Fuego is a premium quality rum that is smooth enough to be enjoyed over ice but versatile enough for cocktails. The rum is golden in colour with a hint of red, while its aroma is of sweet oak, vanilla and nutmeg, followed by chocolate, cinnamon, butter and lemon peel. On the palate this spiced rum shows flavours of chocolate and chilli, and mellow oak. There is also warm Christmas spices, dried fruit raisins, figs, walnuts and macadamia. The finish again shows chocolate and chilli, with plenty of nutmeg and warm spices, then chilli heat and long soft chocolate.

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THE GROVE CORN MASH MAPLE WHISKEY The Grove Experience has taken its American-style corn mash whiskey one step further and given it a taste of something north of the border – infusing it with Canadian maple syrup. The Corn Mash Whiskey has been in the distillery’s 50 litre barrels for over two years – only to be removed and bottled when head distiller James Reed (who was born in Palmer, Alaska, and began distilling at the ripe old age of 14) considers it ready. The team then filled the emptied barrel with A-Grade Canadian maple syrup and let it age until the syrup absorbed a small amount of alcohol and oak flavours and was blended back into the whiskey.

SOUTHERN COMFORT

BEACH HOUSE SPICED RUM

Southern Comfort is the flavour of whiskey made comfortable: Sweet, smooth and delicious. A distinct combination of whiskey, fruit and spice flavours makes Southern Comfort a versatile mixer in cocktails and great to savour on its own. It began with Martin Wilkes Heron, an Irish American bartender, in New Orleans. Dissatisfied with the all-or-nothing taste of Bourbon or whiskey, Heron’s customers begged for something a little smoother and he seized his opportunity, mixing a bunch of fruits and spices with Bourbon. Unfortunately he named it Cuffs and Buttons, however he saw the error of his ways and changed it to Southern Comfort.

Beach House is a spiced rum with a highly original style. Produced on the finest terroirs of Mauritius, its harmonious blend of spicy, peppery notes and subtle underlying sweetness is shot through with a tropical ambiance, making it a rum best sipped while soaking up a beautiful sunset. This rum is a perfect harmony between the tropical softness of sugarcane, floral notes of bitter orange blossom and hints of exotic spices. It is best paired with Pimento, a refreshing French soft drink made with ginger from China and the Ivory Coast, and chilli from Jamaica, alongside bitter orange, lime, oregano and gentian in small quantities.

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PURE SCOT

DOS MADERAS PX 5+5

BUFFALO TRACE

Pure Scot is for anyone who is happy to be themselves and not be told by others what life to lead or which Scotch to choose. Made by Bladnoch – the only Scotch whisky distillery that is Australian-owned – which embraces 200 years of mastery and enhances this tradition through the vision of one (Aussie) man with a bold passion and daring view for the future. This blended Scotch whisky flies a flag for individuality, for people who know who they are. Pure Scot is for those who don’t want to be told. Because, ultimately, they believe that when an individual is being themselves, life is in flow.

Rum Dos Maderas PX 5+5 is an aged rum with a three stage maturing process. It first rests for five years in the Caribbean, then for three more at the Williams & Humbert facilities in casks which have aged Dos Cortados. It is finished once it undergoes a third stage of ageing in butts which have previously aged Don Guido sherry (Pedro Ximénez) for 20 years, thus giving origin to the extraordinary Dos Maderas PX rum. Both Don Guido and Dos Cortados have been aged for 20 years as certified by the oldest Denomination of Origin in Spain: that of Jerez-Xérès-Sherry.

In Kentucky, buffalo carved out a pathway that was followed by America’s first pioneers and explorers. On the spot where their migration route crossed the Kentucky River, the Buffalo Trace distillery has been making Bourbon for over 220 years. The spirit is crafted using the original “Rye recipe” for Bourbon – corn, rye and barley. Only whiskies aged between 8-12 years are selected and every barrel is tasted for approval by an expert panel including the distillery’s master distiller and quality control director, selecting no more than 50 barrels for every bottling run.

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CARGO CULT RUM The story begins in the South Pacific during World War II. Thousands of American GIs suddenly descended on isolated island chains in Melanesia and Polynesia, arriving by ship and aircraft bearing unimaginable riches: crates of magical foodstuffs that never spoiled, tents, jeeps, cigarettes, and inconceivable power sources. The vast amounts of cargo meant drastic changes to the lifestyle of the islanders, many of whom had never seen outsiders before. Just as abruptly, the troops departed, leaving only rusted Jeeps, crumpled beer cans, and the memory of tinned meat. To the astonished eyes of the islanders, this was a miraculous occurrence and they yearned for the return of abundance. They formed Cargo Cults that still endure on some isolated islands, where they patiently wait for the leader’s return. While that glorious day is yet to arrive, the wait is over to experience something new – a unique small batch Spiced Rum from the South Pacific. Rich volcanic soil, unpolluted rain water and sundrenched sugarcane from the remote Ramu River Valley (PNG) and Fiji produce a naturally pure rum that is aged under intense tropical heat and blended with care using natural flavours and spices to weave a unique taste and aromatic balance.

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legend of liquor

MIKEY ENRIGHT Unless you’ve been living under a rock, then you will definitely have heard of Mikey Enright, one of the Australian industry’s leading bar operators – he owns The Barber Shop bars in Sydney – and is a pretty amazing bartender to boot. We sat him down for a chat about his thoughts on the industry.

Why did you become a bartender? It was literally a means to getting a drink because I looked really young and struggled to get into pubs, so I got a job in one. After four years working in pubs I went to university, and when I graduated I started working in cocktail bars. How has the industry developed since you first started out? I started my first job in the industry at a pub as a glass collector in 1988 – yes, I’m an old git, I know. So you could say there hasn’t been lots of changes. A few to mention though: the growth of the internet, more cocktail books, better bar tools, better bars and so on. In more recent times, I think the industry has never been so good with 42 bars&clubs

the abundance of trade shows, information, manufacturing options (glassware, equipment etc) and innovation. What should new bartenders be focusing on in their careers? At some point bartenders aren’t going to want to bartend the long hours that the job requires, so I think it’s best to start in management sooner rather than later. Try to develop yourself to have the full package as much as possible, such as: great experience in cocktail creation, knowledge, service, and learn how to run a business while still having a great time. What is your favourite naff drink? Ha, I like The Terminator from Planet Hollywood.

I loved it as it was at twist on a Long Island Ice Tea (it’s a bit classier). Best piece of advice you have ever been given? Get the job done, keep an eye on the detail and the job is never finished. Weirdest thing a customer has ever done on your watch? A lady took a piss in a lift. If you could change one thing about the industry what would it be? I feel that the industry is probably at its best right now, globally. However, in Sydney it does feel very stagnant due to the liquor laws, so I would definitely change that.

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WHISKY, BUT NOT AS YOU KNOW IT EXPERIMENT NO.1