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REASONS WHY VODKA IS INTERESTING AGAIN
BEST BARS
THE AUSTRALIAN VENUES MAKING WAVES AROUND THE WORLD
MEXICAN
MARVEL Bildo Saravia talks tequila
PLUS: JAPANESE WHISKY • SYDNEY DISTILLERY ARCHIE ROSE • OPERATOR HAMISH GOONETILLEKE
Can your payment terminal tell you when it’s Happy Hour? Albert Can.
Albert can tell you everything you need to know about your sales. He can tell when you’ve had your biggest sales periods and give you insights into who your customers are. And because he runs apps, there’s no limit to what he can do. He’s the clever new EFTPOS tablet and he’s exclusive to CommBank. Technology to keep your business moving? CommBank Can.
commbank.com.au/albert Call: 1800 730 554
Visit: your local branch
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FLAVOURS IN
MARCH/APRIL
TEQUILA & MEZCAL
It’s time to rethink agave spirits and how to serve them.
FEATURE LIST
REGULAR LIST
32
6
WORLD BEATING BARS
NEWS All the latest industry news.
The Aussie bars putting us on the world map.
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8
16
What you need to know about the category.
The new, the revamped and the rebranded venues opening around the country.
Hamish Goonetilleke – what makes his bars succeed.
JAPANESE WHISKY
OPENINGS
OPERATOR PROFILE
13
IN THE COOLER The newest beers, ciders, and mixers.
30
VODKA INNOVATION Nine reasons vodka is sexy again.
14 36
ARCHIE ROSE Behind the scenes at Sydney’s new urban distillery.
40
MINT JULEP
38
US pale ale vs Aussie pale ale – what is the difference?
Best served with a side of Kentucky Derby.
The latest wine and spirit releases for your back bar.
PALE ALE
BEHIND THE BAR
bars&clubs 3
FIRST DRINKS
E
veryone has a bad tequila experience stored in the memory bank. Or at least that’s how the story goes. However, an effort was made to change that in Sydney last month as the inaugural Agave Love festival kicked off. The work of bar scene legend Phil Bayly, the festival saw two incredible days of seminars, tasting sessions and education around all things agave – including tequila, mezcal, sotol and raicilla. The event was the first of its kind in Australia and indeed in the world, with a huge array of international agave spirit experts flying in from the US and Mexico just to take part in the program. And more than one of the visitors was heard to remark that this kind of event would never be possible in Mexico, and how grateful they were that it was possible in Australia. Bayly is well-known – and well-loved – in the bars and clubs industry for his agave evangelism, and the wild success of Agave Love (and there is already plenty of chatter about round two taking place next year) is a credit to his perseverance as well as the incredible potential of agave spirits. With tequila already well entrenched in bar culture – it is already getting a lot of love on the small bar scene, from small batch brands to aged sipping styles – mezcal is the next in line. It seems strange to sit in a room with a group of Mexican experts enthusiastically discussing how the aromas of acetone in one glass contrast nicely with the next glass, which is exhibiting burnt rubber characteristics, but like any new experience it takes getting used to. However, the unusual flavours (and yes the aforementioned aspects are overwhelming positives) open up a world of possibilities for cocktail making and more. The important part of this is, of course, staff training. Having an educated staff member who can accurately sell a customer a product that they may never have experienced before – like mezcal – that fits their personal tastes, will ensure that that customer will not only return to have your staff recommend their next drink, but they will also be more likely to talk up your service and spirit selection to their friends. It’s hard to see a downside. In fact the subject of our Operator Profile this issue – Hamish Goonetilleke – is a big proponent of staff-driven training in his own venues, and he has invested no small amount of time in getting it right. @BARS_AND_CLUBS
In magazine-related news, we are launching our first ever digital issue of the magazine in tandem with this print copy. Now, wherever you are, you’ll be able to catch up on what is happening in the bars and clubs industry all over Australia. There will be extra content in every issue – including social photos, so you can find your face; more in depth photo galleries of new venues; and even some video content. I’m excited to expand into the digital field, for the potential to offer more interactive content that will be available at the fingertips of you – the readers – wherever you are. Further to that, have you followed us on social media? All the links are below - look us up. Cheers,
Editor
We’re excited to announce that Mark Ryu has joined the bars&clubs team as National Sales Manager. Mark is an experienced media sales professional, having served clients with print, digital, and TV campaigns in both B2B and B2C environments over a number of years, and is particularly adept at tailoring media solutions to individual clients. He’s also a keen imbiber of spirits so will fit right in with the rest of the team! For all your advertising enquiries, please contact Mark: E: mryu@intermedia.com.au T: (02) 8586 6123
@BARS_AND_CLUBS
PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia. com.au EDITOR Stefanie Collins scollins@intermedia.com.au EDITOR-AT-LARGE James Wilkinson jwilkinson@intermedia. com.au CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Peter Czeczon
Stefanie Collins
WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/BARSANDCLUB
MANAGING DIRECTOR Simon Grover
WWW.TOPSHELFSHOW.COM.AU
“It seems strange to be enthusiastically discussing the aromas of acetone and characteristics of burnt rubber.”
NATIONAL SALES MANAGER Mark Ryu mryu@intermedia.com.au (02) 85866123 GERNERAL SALES – HOSPITALITY & LIQUOR Shane T Williams stwilliams@intermedia. com.au GRAPHIC DESIGN Ryan Vizcarra ryanv@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper PUBLISHED BY The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd ABN 940 025 83 682 41 Bridge Road, GLEBE, NSW Australia, 2037 Telephone: 02 9660 2113 Fax: 02 9660 1883
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DISCLAIMER This publication is published by The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the "Publisher"). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher's endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication. COPYRIGHT (C) 2014 - THE INTERMEDIA GROUP PTY LTD.
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Please sip our hand-crafted tequila responsibly.
THE BARS, THE EVENTS, THE THE DRINKS, DRINKS, THE THE PASSION BRANDS
NEWS VIBE
NEWS
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NATIONAL BACARDI LEGACY WINNER ALISSA Gabriel took home the top honour at the national final of the Bacardi Legacy Competition with her cocktail The Bouteiller. The Queenslander beat a tough lineup to progress to the international finals, which will take place in Sydney on 2-3 May. There Gabriel will present her cocktail on the international stage to win the chance to have The Bouteiller stand alongside the likes of the Daiquiri, the Mojito and the Cuba Libre. After spending six months perfecting her cocktail, and a solid month marketing it to bars and drinkers around the world, Gabriel was ecstatic to win the competition. “I couldn't be more thrilled about taking out the national title for this year’s Bacardi Legacy Global Cocktail Competition,” she said. “The whole experience has been amazing. I hope to stamp not only Australia, but Rockhampton, at the forefront of the global bartending community where it belongs.” The competitors were judged not only on technical ability and the quality of their drink but also the inspiration behind it and the success of their marketing campaign. The Bacardi Legacy competition sees finalists marketing their drink to bars both locally and
GHOSTED RESERVE WHISKY WILLIAM Grant & Sons has launched the first whisky in its Rare Cask Reserves Collection, with just 300 bottles of the Ghosted Reserve hitting the Australian market. The 42% ABV spirit is a blend malt of two exclusive whiskies sourced from long-since closed and ‘ghosted’ distilleries, Inverleven (operational from 1938 until 1991) and Ladyburn (operational from 1963 until 1975). It has deep, oaky and slightly oily notes from Ladyburn, and sweet fruitiness with hints of floral blossom from Inverleven. With only 4,100 individually numbered bottles available world-wide, this never-to-be-repeated whisky will retail for $650 per bottle. The second whisky in the collection will be a Dan Murphy’s exclusive, Crunnich, which will retail solely in the Australian market at the liquor retailer for $180.
ALISSA GABRIEL MIXES HER WINNING COCKTAIL
internationally, as well as on social media, before the final round of judging takes place. The finalists’ success in spreading the word about their drink is a key part of their presentation. The judges – including Bacardi family member and global brand manager Enrique Comas and Bacardi master blender Jose Sanchez Gavito – were incredibly impressed with the overall quality of the competitors, saying that all of the drinks presented would stand up on a global stage. The winning drink was inspired by the relationship between Facundo Bacardi and Jose Leon Bouteiller, a French distiller and confectioner who helped to pioneer Bacardi rum. Made with Bacardi Oro, dry vermouth, and falernum, the cocktail impressed the judges with its creativity, originality, and potential to become a classic Bacardi cocktail.
NEWS
BONUS D I G I TA L C O N T E N T
BARSANDCLUBS.REALVIEWDIGITAL.COM FOR PHOTO GALLERIES, VIDEOS, AND MORE.
UMBRELLA DEATH WARNING THE preventable death of a young girl in Queensland must serve as a stark reminder to venue owners that they are obligated to secure their outdoor furniture, authorities say. The nine-year-old girl was fatally struck by an unsecured umbrella at a public pool in 2012 after it was picked up by a gust of wind. The operator of the facility was charged with failing to comply with a duty of care under the work health and safety laws and fined $10,000. The Office of Fair and Safe Work Queensland and the Department of Justice said the tragic incident serves as a reminder to operators to secure leisure and hospitality businesses against wild weather. “BUSINESS operators in the hospitality sector need to control the risks of projectiles by removing or securing objects such as furniture, umbrellas and signage,” the authorities said. “Umbrellas should be permanently installed to ensure that they are securely fixed to withstand the effects of wind and should be removed or closed in extremely windy conditions or when the outdoor seating area is not in use.”
LARK CLAIMS BEST AUSSIE DISTILLER AWARD THE world-renowned Lark Distillery has taken home the Best Australian Distiller trophy at the inaugural Australian Distilled Spirits Awards (ADSA). The Royal Agricultural Society of Victoria (RASV) awarded six category trophies, as well as the overall distillery award. The RASV believe the awards give spirits producers the opportunity to promote their spirits and liqueurs to industry and consumers, as well as a chance to benchmark themselves against the industry as a whole and gain feedback from industry experts. The 2015 judging panel included head judge Nick Stock, Craig Daniels (Malt Whisky Society of Australia), Vernon Chalker (Gin Palace), and Sebastian Reaburn (Bombay Sapphire). The Major Trophy winners: Champion Whisky – Limeburners Peated Single Malt Barrell M227, Great Southern Distilling Company WA; Champion Rum – Spike's Reserve, Hoochery Distillery WA; Champion Gin – The West Winds Gin The Sabre, The Tailor Made Spirits Company WA; Champion Alternative Spirit – Zeus Oyzo, Edgemill Group Vic; Champion Brandy – Black Bottle XO Brandy, Vok Beverages SA; Champion Liqueur – Pecan & Hazelnut Liqueur, Castle Glen Australia QLD; Best Australian Distiller – Lark Distillery Tas.
DIAGEO VIRTUAL WHISKY TOUR WHISKY fans can now enjoy a dram while virtually exploring the distilleries of Cardhu, The Singleton of Glen Ord, Talisker and Lagavulin from the comfort of their own home. Diageo is the first company to open its distillery doors with Google Business View – a free 360 degree virtual tour that allows fans to see inside the walls of the four single malt Scotch whisky distilleries from their digital devices. According to Diageo, the ability to tour distilleries that sit in remote parts of Scotland, from the coast of Kildalton to the Black Isle, will encourage people to discover the stories behind the brands regardless of whether they are able to travel there in person.
RECOGNITION FOR MELBOURNE BLOG DRINKS website Melbourne Cocktails has been named a finalist in the coveted US-based Saveur Blog Awards. Out of a record-breaking pool of almost 50,000 submissions, the blog was selected as one of the top six in the Best Spirits or Cocktail Coverage category – the first Australian blog ever to do so. The brainchild of Melbourne-based consultant and university lecturer Melissa How, Melbourne Cocktails gives the inside scoop on Melbourne’s best cocktail bars and events, plus recipes and techniques for the home bar. “I was looking for a creative outlet that would let me practice my skills in social media, writing and photography, and found the answer in a highball. I just love cocktails and bars, so starting a blog was a natural way to go,” How said. Since its launch in late 2014, Melbourne Cocktails has really taken off, currently boasting over 2000 followers on Instagram alone. How’s blog will now compete for both The Editor’s Choice Award, which is selected by a panel of judges, and the Reader’s Choice Award, which goes to the finalist that receives the most votes. Finalists attend a multi-day celebration and awards gala in New York City in June. Voting closes 30th April 2015. To vote, go to www.melbournecocktails.com.
bars&clubs 7
OPENINGS
THIS MUST BE THE PLACE Two of Sydney’s best known bartenders – and winners of Diageo’s World Class competition – Luke Ashton and Charlie Ainsbury have opened a spritzer-focused bar in Sydney.
SEE THE DIGITAL MAGAZINE FOR A LOOK INSIDE THE BAR
LUKE ASHTON & CHARLIE AINSBURY
What have you learned about setting up a successful bar? Charlie: One of my mentors always said you learn from other people’s mistakes. So, the simple things that I guess a lot of people forget – like the way to present a bill, the toilets, where the bins are behind the bar. Looking at different set ups and trying to take all these different elements from bars around the world that we’ve been to. Luke: It’s about putting your money where your mouth is. There are so many poorly designed bar stations out there that aren’t created by bartenders, so for the years we’ve been standing behind them, looking at the shortcomings, we’ve now had to design one ourselves and we’ve got to make sure it’s on point. How did you balance your ideas? C: It was as simple as throwing an idea out there and seeing if we both agree. Some ideas were stronger than others, like some were immediately “yes we need that” and some were “eh, maybe we can leave it for the next bar, it’s not important.” The principal factor was putting the customer first, seeing if we need it, if it’s going to make the customer comfortable, if
it’s going to make our service more efficient. If it didn’t then it got put in the back seat. L: There’s always a little bit of compromise. You have to look at money and finances and ask if it’s worth it at this point to do these things. Is it something that we can retrofit into the bar or is it something to spend the money on initially? It’s all about efficiency in a bar, because the more efficient it is, the more time you can spend with your customers and the better service they ultimately get. And, at the end of the day, that is what people come back for. It’s the service and the experience that they have in a space. You’re very focused on service, was it an initial priority? C: Cocktail bars around Sydney pride themselves on their cocktails but the cocktails take ages to come out. And that’s also bars around the world. We wanted to have a cocktail bar that was unlike any other in that regard, where we could make really great drinks, really fast. How did you come up with the spritzers concept? L: It was an answer to a bunch of different issues that we see in the bar scene, like speed of service and price point. One of our grievances is that cocktails are just getting exponentially more
expensive and are less and less accessible, and people are moving away from drinking cocktails – for the time that it takes, for the money they have to invest. The best inventions come out of necessity and it’s sort of a bit of a necessity that we came up with something that we could work with. And we want people to drink more for flavour and for the social aspect, and the spritz knocked that right out of the park. Also, it’s a nice bright space and the cocktails echo that as well. How has World Class helped/ informed the process? C: It’s really simple things, you get to go to the global finals and there you meet bartenders and bar personalities from around the world. The simple thing of them starting to follow you on Instagram and being friends on Facebook, when you upload something and you say “oh we’re opening a bar” there’s then an international hype as well as local hype. Simple things like that help you so much. But then just the competition itself, it’s huge and you’ve no idea how big it is until you actually go to the global finals and realise that a lot of time and effort goes into this. L: The prize money definitely helped. A bar owner said to us, “$100,000 is just enough money to get yourself in trouble with”. But World Class definitely gives you a global touch point with other bartenders and, understanding their markets, you can apply those ideas
OPENINGS
and those concepts or those shared experiences, and take them into opening your own bar. It’s invaluable. How did you pick the location? C: We were looking in the city for about a year, actually. We came across two or three venues that came close. We were trying to pull the trigger but it just fell through. L: You start casting the net a little bit wider and seeing what’s out there. I live 10 minutes down the road and this block was at 30 per cent occupancy for close to two years. It was a bit sad to see. If we can help regenerate the area and give people a reason to come back to the area, and the locals as well, then all the better. What’s the next step for the venue? C: We want it to be a welloiled machine and then to go upstairs. But there’s a few other bits and pieces that we’re trying to get off the ground – more expanding the brand stuff. L: Once we’re happy with everything that’s going across the bar we’ll look upstairs. It’ll have a different concept, slightly more sophisticated. While downstairs is casual and really accessible, upstairs will be a little bit more adult, a little bit more moody. See the online issue for more photos of the bar. This Must Be The Place 239 Oxford St, Darlinghurst, NSW www.tmbtp.com.au
NEW, REFURBISHED, REFITTED & RESTORED VENUES NOW OPEN AROUND AUSTRALIA.
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OPENINGS THE GANTRY THE history of the Gantry Restaurant & Bar’s location is reflected in the revamped design of the iconic Pier One venue. Drawing inspiration from the industrial roots of Pier One, the design is a mix of rawness and contemporary polished finish. Along with dark, club styled furniture, brass furnishings and weathered timber flooring, the original features have been emphasised, including exposed pillars and steel framing. The island bar has been designed as the hero element – the zinc-clad bar sits underneath a canopy of glassware, framed by floor to ceiling glass windows and doors. Executive Chef, Chris Irvin and Bar Manager Ben Taouss have focussed the restaurant on local and market fresh produce. The seafood display will showcase daily offerings, while menu items include Venison Tartare, Spanner Crab with bergamot and green apple, and a 1.2kg grain fed dry-aged Tomahawk steak with roasted garlic and farm fresh vegetables. The cocktail menu emphasises native and botanical ingredients – Storm Riders features homemade ginger beer brewed with wattleseed, fresh lime and Gosling’s dark rum; Rogue Seagull has Four Pillars Gin, rosemary infused Regal Rogue vermouth, strawberry marmalade; and the El Gantry sees Tequila Blanco swizzled with a homemade blueberry and native herbs shrub and fresh pineapple juice. The Gantry, Pier One Sydney Harbour, 11 Hickson Road, Walsh Bay, Sydney, NSW BEN TAOUSS (02 8298 9910) & CHRIS
IRVIN
DEAD RINGER NOT A COPY CAT ACCORDING to Tim Phillips, co-owner of the internationally renowned Bulletin Place and co-owner of soon-to-be-open Surry Hills venue Dead Ringer, the new venture will be a departure from the successful format. Phillips says that while it isn’t the sports bar of his dreams – which he intends to call Second Base – it is set to feature a stronger food offering, a reflection on the team’s growing love of home cooking, and eating in good venues. To that end, Dave Hobbs, who worked with Phillips in London, has been recruited for his operational back of house experience, as the new spot operates under a restaurant with primary service of alcohol licence. According to Phillips the group never had grand ambitions of being “multi-venue bar tsars” and as such didn’t want to rush into opening a new bar. Instead they are aiming to open a bar that will “add to the drinking culture” and “raise the standards of both eating and drinking in the city”. After a location heartbreak in Newtown, Phillips and co snapped up a premises in Surry Hills and brought on board Tristan Rosier as head chef – he has worked all around the city including three hat restaurants. Phillips says that customers can expect more food appropriate cocktails, a larger wine list, more beers and a lot more fortified wines. Sherry is set to be a focal point, along with Madeira, Marsala, vermouth and port, with a particular emphasis on Australian producers. Phillips’ answer to the million dollar question is that they are planning for a few hurdles, but have their hearts set on a late April opening (no one is allowed to mention the M-word regarding dates). Stay tuned. Dead Ringer, 413 Bourke St Surry Hills, NSW info@deadringer.wtf
THE GRETZ SERVES IT UP IN ENMORE THE team behind the successful restaurant (with an excellent bar) Hartsyard, have opened their new premises just up the road. The cocktail bar takes its inspiration from an “urban oasis” and the team employed the same designer who fitted out the pared back Hartsyard. There are plenty of nautical references in the décor from the fishnet influenced lights, to the rope shelves that were hand-spliced by co-owner Naomi Hart’s eldest brother (who sailed tall ships around the world). While the cocktail menu doesn’t follow a distinct theme, it riffs on “classics” and “originals” – such as the Lovely Mary (Aquavit, Lillet Blanc, cherry tomato, basil and black pepper) and the fantastically named I Don’t Want No Shrub (Beefeater, Averna Amaro, peach shrub, lemon, egg white). All feature a range of kitchen-assisted infusions: smoked flavours, house-made syrups and more – and the range is due to be expanded. The bar snacks are typically inventive, with a distinct effort made to totally separate the bar’s menu from that of Hartsyard. Expect a lot of seafood with hot and cold oysters, tostones (fried plantains, ceviche snapper and pique), and scotch olives (stuffed with manchego cheese fondue). According to Hart, they set out to create a bar that they themselves would be happy to drink in – which means great drinks, good food and table service are the order of the day. The Gretz, 125 Enmore Road, Enmore, NSW thegretz@hartysyard.com.au
bars&clubs 9
JAPANESE WHISKY
SLEEPING GIANT WIDE AWAKE Jacob Stern takes an in depth look at the newest behemoth in the whisky game – Japan.
T
he hum around Japanese whisky is growing undeniably louder, as an increasing number of consumers, merchants and critics join in chorus to sing the praises of the nation’s distillers. The steady stream of awards has certainly strengthened Japan’s credibility as a whisky producer, but for those inside the industry, these awards have merely served to reinforce what they have long known – Japanese whiskies are among the best in the world. The feather in the cap moment arrived when Jim Murray, whisky critique and author of the annual Whisky Bible, named the Yamazaki Single Malt Sherry Cask 2013 as his whisky of the year leading into 2015. Although many disagreed, and argued strongly against his methods of selection, there is no doubt that his choice is reflective of the times we are in. Japanese whiskies have paid their dues and now they are reaping the rewards. It is Sukhinder Singh, co-founder of the largest online whisky retailer, The Whisky Exchange, who puts it best, “Japanese whisky is, in simple English, on fire”.
HUMBLE BEGINNINGS Japanese whisky has a rich history, beginning with suggestions that whisky – of some shape and form – was available in Japan as early as the eighteen hundreds. Although the drink may have been in circulation for years, the first Japanese distillery was not officially opened until 1923. The Yamazaki distillery (now under the Suntory banner) was founded by Shinjiro Torii, a former importer of liquor from the West, who had the desire to create a local whisky tailored to Japanese tastes. As it turned out, Japanese tastes would be forced to mirror Scottish ones, at least initially. Torii employed a Scottish-trained master blender, Masataka Taketsuru, meaning many of the practices and traditions he picked up abroad were brought to Japan. The relationship between Scottish and Japanese whiskies is no more evident than in their spellings of the word – both drop the ‘e’ from whisky, in contrast with other nations that produce the spirit. Taketsuru eventually left Yamazaki to go out on his own, establishing the distilling company now known as Nikka. Given that Japan’s two most recognised distillers have their roots in Scottish practices; it is no surprise that comparisons are often drawn.
GROWING UP In Japan, whisky companies generally own both the distilleries and the product brands, allowing for greater product exclusivity – a stark contrast to the Scottish industry.
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Scottish distilleries typically have a sole focus, and excess produce is passed on to other distilleries in order to create blended whiskies. For the Japanese companies, the desire to keep operations and products in-house has led to increased innovation and more diverse production. As whisky grew locally, so did the demand for products that were tailored specifically to the Japanese palate. This led to lighter, sweeter whiskies that are easier to drink, comparable – only just – to more floral Highland whiskies or gentler Speyside drops. Chiharu Tomizawa, chief bartender at Sydney establishment Tokonoma, finds, “Nikka to be a little more 'traditional' in that it mirrors Scottish whisky more so than other Japanese whiskies. Whereas Suntory produce what I would say is a truly unique Japanese whisky due to their methods and experimentation with select barrel finishes”. For a long time Japanese whiskies were distributed almost exclusively in local channels. It was not until 1990 that Suntory broke into the US market with a solitary offering. From that point on Japanese whiskies have slowly been imbedding themselves in international markets, gaining in both repute and popularity. In 2003 the Yamazaki 12 Year Old won the
JAPANESE WHISKY
gold medal at the International Spirits Challenge, removing once and for all the stigma that good whiskies exclusively originate in Scotland and Ireland. With the purists finally sitting up and paying attention to Japanese whiskies, it became a forgone conclusion that the general public would follow suit.
DEFINING ITSELF The Japanese whiskies of today are increasingly expressing their own traits and characteristics. This can be attributed to the value the nation places on artisanship – in every aspect of life. The focus that many Japanese industries place on presentation, process and appearance is echoed and maintained in the whisky business. For Tomizawa, the stocking of Japanese
products is “very personal, in that I'm a Japanese bartender working in Sydney, Australia. I'm very passionate about the culture I grew up being a part of”. It is this passion that is reflected both in the whiskies themselves and the drink list curated at Tokonoma. There is, arguably, greater consideration paid to the texture and body of Japanese whiskies than those from other nations. Frederick Duarte, Brand Manager for Suntory, one of the largest whisky producers in Japan, recognises that, “various characteristics [of Japanese whiskies] can be attributed to the mild climate, pure waters and production process”.
FULLYFLEDGED GIANT With accolades ranging from distillery of the year (Suntory, 2010, ISC awards) to Murray’s Whisky of the Year, the juggernaut that is Japan shows
no signs of slowing down. Around one-in-twenty whiskies sold globally is from Japan, a statistic that illustrates the strength of the industry on an international scale. Singh, whose company operates globally, has identified that “the problem now is that there is not enough stock to go around and prices are increasing – popularity will definitely [continue to] increase as more and more people discover what is possibly some of the finest whisky in the world”.
REACHING AUSTRALIAN SHORES Australian consumers have quickly jumped aboard the Japanese whisky bandwagon. Duarte and Suntory have recognised that “Australian consumers have increased their acceptance of Japanese products over the recent years – Japanese whisky [being] no exception”. Although the whiskies are initially tailored to the tastes of Japanese markets, Duarte notes that Japanese whiskies “have a soft and
complex, yet refined, flavour which complements Australians' palates [and] are suitable to new whisky drinkers as well as connoisseurs”. This broad appeal is seeing an increasing number of establishments stocking Japanese whiskies, as well as more traditional liquor outlets. Like many other whiskies, the Japanese drops are most commonly drunk neat or on the rocks. Duarte is enthused by the variety of cocktails now using Suntory on-premise, and points to the growing popularity of whisky and soda ‘highballs’ in Japan, a trend they are “looking to build in Australia” through their Whisky Kakubin offering.
WHICH GIANT TO BUY? The number of distilleries and brands in Japan are
relatively few compared with its Scottish counterparts. However, the range and diversity of products that each brand releases is often broader and closer to being allencompassing. Suntory and Nikka are the two biggest Japanese brands, and each has a large offering on the international market. Other brands of whisky include Kirin, Hombo and Eigashima Shuzou, however it is Suntory and Nikka with the most on offer in Australia. That is not to say that, if one searches hard enough, the more uncommon drops cannot be sourced. Tomizawa, for one, acknowledges that “other distilleries can be harder to get hold of, but [are] certainly worth the effort. We always try to buy a few interesting bottles whenever one of our team members travels back to Japan”. Japanese whisky now sits in full view. It is acclaimed by critics and pundits alike – time to hop on the bandwagon lest you get left behind. b&c
FOUR OF THE BEST JAPANESE WHISKY COCKTAILS The Great Masataka – Sake Restaurant
Nikka Barrel Whisky, Averna and Liquor 43, served with a lemon twist
Nikka Stinger – Crane Bar
Nikka Barrel Whisky, Frangelico, lemon juice, agave and muddled orange
Ume Boshi Manhattan – Tokonoma
Ume Boshi (Japanese salt plums), Japanese whisky, sweet vermouth, griottine and bitters
Suntory Time – Sokyo
Yamazaki 12 Year Old, red vermouth, maraschino liqueur and orange bitters
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IN THE COOLER
4 PINES THE BASTARD CHILDREN OF THE BRITISH EMPIRE This latest Keller Door release follows the journey of the humble pale ale throughout five countries – England, America, New Zealand, Australia and Belgium. The collection includes: English IPA (6.0% ABV), American IPA (6.3% ABV), New Zealand Pale Ale (4.5% ABV) and the Australian Pale Ale (5.0% ABV). The latter is unfiltered and naturally-conditioned in the bottle. Small amounts of carried-over yeast provide a distinctive fruitiness and plenty of vitamin B to help with hangovers in case of accidental overconsumption. Distributed by: 4 Pines Brewing (02) 9099 2720
FRANK'S CENTENARY RELEASE CIDER RANGE As part of the Centenary of ANZAC commemorations 2014-18, a donation of 10c from each bottle sold will be made to support the important work of the RSL. Frank Clark enlisted in the A.I.F. in 1916 and served on the Western Front until 1918, while his brother Roy was at Gallipoli. Upon returning home, Frank planted new orchards on his property at Franklin in Tasmania's Huon Valley and these orchards are still run by his family today. Frank's ciders are created form 100 per cent pure Tasmanian fruit, are gluten free and contain no added sugar. Distributed by: Franklin Cider Company orders@franklincider.com.au
HAWKERS BEER PALE ALE 5.2% ABV This full bodied, American-style Pale Ale, took out the People's Choice award at the Great Australian Beer Festival this year, when the brewery was only a few weeks old. It has piney, resinous, citrus notes on the nose, supported up by a solid malt backbone and a dry finish. Hawkers was founded by Melbourne chef and restaurateur Joseph Abboud together with Mazen Hajjar of Lebanon's first craft brewery, 961 Beer. Alongside the American-inspired Pale Ale, the initial range also includes a traditional Czech Pilsner, an IPA and a Saison. Distributed by: Hawkers Beer beer@hawkers.beer
JAMES SQUIRE HOP THIEF 7 AMERICAN-STYLE PALE ALE 5.0% ABV The seventh iteration of this evolving beer series uses a combination of Mosaic and Galaxy hops to deliver a distinct, fresh flavour. The Galaxy hops deliver a citrus and passionfruit aroma, while the Mosaic hops add pine notes and strong, earthy undertones. For each release, the brewers select the best hops available each season and use these to brew an American-style Pale Ale. With a rich, fullbodied malt backbone, the beer is carefully crafted to accentuate and balance the chosen hops’ unique flavour and aroma. Distributed by: Lion 1800 308 388
LOBETHAL BIERHAUS BOHEMIAN PHILSNER 4.8% ABV Established in 2007, this independent microbrewery produces a wide range of beers. The Bohemian Philsner (not a typo) is a cold fermented lager with moderate hop aroma and flavour, and a bitter finish. Brewed using the finest available malted barley, a blend of carefully chosen hops and Bohemian pilsner yeasts, this lager style is based on the famous pilsners brewed in the Czech Republic. The Hallertau and Tettnang hops add bitterness and flavour, while the Czech Saaz add hop flavour and aroma. Distributed by: Beer Importers & Distributors (02) 9667 3755
QUIET DEEDS WHITE IPA 5.5% ABV The second limited edition brew to be released, the White IPA mixes the hopcharacter of an India Pale Ale with the wheat base and spice additions of a refreshing Belgian Wit Beer. With Cascade, Centennial and Mosaic hops and wheat malt and rolled oats makes for a refreshing, well-balanced ale with fruity hop aromas. Up front the White IPA displays crisp bitterness with yeast derived flavours of orange peel, coriander and spice. The mid palate delivers a biscuity mouthfeel, while citrus tones finish the ale with a clean and dry bitterness. Distributed by: Red Island 1300 67 33 62
bars&clubs 13
The first Saturday in May is always Kentucky Derby day, an event synonymous with the Mint Julep. Russ McFadden puts on his best drawl to give you the low-down on this bourbon classic
S
tewie Griffin had the right idea when it comes to Mint Juleps. Best consumed shaded from the Kentucky sun on your veranda rocking chair, clad head-totoe in white seersucker. Now, in the socially unacceptable circumstance that you’ve never actually seen this specific Family Guy cut-away, then let’s just start with saying that the Mint Julep is as Kentucky as fried chicken, bourbon and racehorses. This however was not always the case.
HISTORY Names often offer insights into the history of drinks and the word ‘julep’ has origins as far away from Kentucky as one can get. It dates back to ancient times, derived from the Persian ‘gulab’ (rosewater), the Arabic ‘julap’ and the French ‘julep’. When the word first appeared in the Oxford English Dictionary around the 15th century, it was taken to refer to syrup used as a vehicle for administering medicine, not much unlike Mary Poppins’ famous Spoonful of Sugar. Based on this, a fair assumption can be made that early Mint Juleps were rooted in this palatable method of administering spirits for their once purported medicinal benefits. Fast forward to 1784 where a printed Medical Communications volume talks of a "sickness at the stomach, with frequent retching, and, at times, a difficulty of swallowing. I then prescribed her an emetic, some opening powders, and a mint julep”. Nineteen years later, a book entitled ‘Travel of Four Years and a Half in the United States of America’ describes “a dram of spirituous liqueur that has mint steeped in it, taken by Virginians of a morning”. The author does not mention the spirit used and, though bourbon is seen as the go-to these days, at the time rum, gin and cognac were also quite common bases for juleps.
The Mint
Julep 14 bars&clubs
CLASSIC COCKTAILS
Another couple of hundred years later and the Mint Julep is still a Virginian staple with over 80,000 imbibed during the May Kentucky Derby at Louisville race track Churchill Downs.
THE PERFECT JULEP There are whole books on the subject of the julep and more recipes than could ever be discussed in this short article. The arguments over method, recipe, ice, vessel or mint as a garnish, an ingredient or a syrup could rage longer than the wars of the middle ages. However you choose to make yours, aside from great quality whiskey and mint, there are a couple of key considerations to crafting a truly fine julep.
How do you take yours?
Considering the julep’s iconic derby day status, it would be rude not to take a look at the official recipe of the event:
THE JULEP CUP
THE KENTUCKY DERBY MINT JULEP
If you can source traditional silver or pewter cups, this should be your go-to vessel. The metal allows for a superiorly frosty drink. Failing this, then a small ‘toby’ tin has been known to work quite well.
“Make simple syrup…cool and place in a covered container with six or eight sprigs of fresh mint…refrigerate… make julep by filling a julep cup with crushed ice adding one tablespoon mint syrup and two ounces of Kentucky bourbon. Stir rapidly with a spoon to frost the outside of the cup. Garnish with a sprig of fresh mint.”
ICE
This recipe is perhaps one of the easiest and easily replicated recipes I have come across and used at the fine establishments I’ve tended in London, Melbourne and Sydney. • 6-8 mint leaves • 10ml simple syrup (50 brix) • 60ml bourbon Press mint in julep cup to release the aroma from the veins. Add simple syrup, bourbon and ice. Swizzle until a frost forms and serve with a plumage of mint, a dust of fine sugar and a short straw to ensure you really have to burrow the nose into the mint. Alternatively, use a julep strainer instead of a straw.
Crushed ice is great. Snow or shaved ice is even better to fully chill your beverage. To create snow ice, grab yourself a traditional cloth Lewis bag (or a clean towel at a pinch) and use it to wrap then smash regular ice to a fine powder. The cloth will absorb moisture to ensure you have a dry and very cold ice to mix with.
SUGAR Let the debate reign on sugar verses syrup. If you do opt for sugar, my recommendation would be to use super-fine to ensure it dissolves easily. Personally, I use syrup for a more consistent drink.
WHERE TO DRINK THEM Needless to say that for a true julep experience one should consider a frosty one at Churchill Downs on Derby Day. That said though, when a venue is pumping out 80,000 drinks, you may well be paying the price for experience over a well-crafted cocktail. So here are some other venues around the globe worth checking out: Citizen Public House – Classic Boston neighbourhood bar known for its signature julep with bonded Evan William. All Star Lanes – Retro London bowling alley that can fix you up a classic 1780s julep and/or their own signature Gin and Elderflower Julep Jar. Shady Pines – Sydney’s famous dive bar offers more than just beer, shots and whisky/apple juice. Sink a julep while listening to a little bluegrass. b&c
SIMPLE JULEP
GEORGIA PEACH JULEP Dave Wondrich’s recipe for this cognac and peach variation is a tasty-cum-fruity little number. • 2 teaspoons superfine sugar • 5 to 6 sprigs mint • 45ml cognac • 15ml peach brandy • Bar spoon Jamaican rum (float) Press mint in julep cup, add ingredients and crushed ice, swizzle, use some mint plumage to garnish, serve.
GRAPEFRUIT JULEP Tenuous yes, but if your bar struggles to convert drinkers to the dark (spirit) side then Dale DeGroff’s vodka julep might just be the training wheels that are needed. • 3-4 mint leaves • 5ml grenadine • 10ml lime • 20ml honey syrup • 60ml pink grapefruit • 50ml grapefruit vodka Shake and strain over crushed ice. Garnish with the obligatory mint plumage.
bars&clubs 15
HAMISH GOONETILLEKE
“Believe in what you’re doing. Without that you’re just four walls and some booze.”
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OPERATOR PROFILE
h s i m Ha e k e l l i t e n Goo
The owner of two Melbourne venues, the success of Hamish Goonetilleke’s ventures is a mix of sharp business know-how and gut feeling
H
amish Goonetilleke is an energetic guy. Fresh back from a trip to the Caribbean, he is brimming with ideas for his venue, the iconic The Rum Diary on Brunswick Street in the Melbourne suburb of Fitzroy. Running on jetlagged energy, he is also keen to check in on his new venue, the freshly opened G&Tea – located just a block down the street.
FROM HOSPO TO ADVERTISING & BACK Goonetilleke got his start in the industry while he was still at university, studying business marketing and international business, working his way from restaurant dishy in the Melbourne suburb of Ivanhoe to barrista at Richmond Hill Café and Larder. Once he graduated he worked fulltime with an advertising agency, however his love of the hospitality industry was still in his mind. He started his own marketing company with a friend before they decided to branch out and start a bar – Marmalade on Commercial Road in Prahran, around 2009-2010. According to Goonetilleke, his business background has helped him when it came to his venues – allowing him to create strategies similar to those used in big business. “I really enjoy business strategy,” he says. “Being able to analyse the market and try to predict what’s going on. I love to see an opportunity and try to make it work.”
STICK TO YOUR CONVICTIONS However, he lost faith in the vision of the venture and when an opportunity presented itself he relinquished his share and used the money to start The Rum Diary. According to Goonetilleke, he learned a lot from the mistakes that were made in
his first venture – mistakes that can be common among new bar operators. “Don’t be money hungry. I learnt that in my first business,” he says. “We started it with this idea of it being all about doing cocktails in these marmalade jars and doing great breakfast martinis, doing homemade marmalades and infusing them in cocktails.” Goonetilleke also leveraged his contacts in the local art scene to create a space that he calls a “cool, creative hub”. However, it didn’t last, the venue became too focused on profit margins and the original vision was lost in the struggle. “It just dwindled away because it became all about just making stupid margin, there was no idea behind it and it ended up as nothing,” he says. “Which was why I left. I was just like, I don’t believe in this anymore, this is nothing compared to what we said it was going to be.”
PASSION IS THE KEY Goonetilleke is firmly of the opinion that customers can easily tell the difference between a bar that is run by someone with passion and one that is run purely for profit. And it is the former that is going to attract repeat customers and get them to be the best ambassadors for a business. “Be honest to your idea and do what you say you’re going to do,” he says, “[Then] your suppliers and your customers believe you. You’re not pulling wool over someone’s eyes and asking them to pay a stupid amount of money.” Instead Goonetilleke stresses the value he has found in immersing himself in his venue's theme and offering his customers products he has sourced from the other side of the world, which no one else can offer. And while he sells them at a
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OPERATOR PROFILE
Goonetilleke’s Top Tips USE YOUR SPACE WELL Getting the most out of your venue space in important – as is considering how you customers will eventually use the space. Sit in the space before you begin to build and visualise exactly how everyone, including staff, will move through the space. “Sit in a chair and think: what the fuck is going to work in this place?” he says. “Try and picture how you see people moving and what they’re going to do – like are they doing table service?”
FINDING & KEEPING GREAT STAFF Goonetilleke admits he is lucky with the staff he has, however he works hard to create a good atmosphere in the business. “We have meetings – four weeks on, one week off; we have suppliers coming in and doing training; we do internal training. We’ll do blind tastings, we’ll do internal competitions. So we’re together at the same time, if there’s any problems in the group, there’s no chance to fester those problems because we belt it out right then and there. You just want to get it over and done with and move on. Make sure the conversations within the staff are really positive, they’re all just talking about good things instead of bitching about negative things. I communicate well and we believe in each other. It’s grown from just being Hamish, it’s now a business that people come to and they believe in it.”
FORM GREAT SUPPLIER RELATIONSHIPS The longer he has worked in the industry, the more Goonetilleke has come to realise that good supplier relationships are key to the continued success of his venue, and he works hard to maintain them. “We’ve got these great relationships and they really are mutually beneficial, because they see a value in being associated with [The Rum Diary], then I gain a great financial benefit by leveraging [the suppliers],” he says. “So with G&Tea, we really worked to develop our supplier relationships from the start. [If you do the same] it means your capital is better, your margins can be better and it’s a win-win for both [parties].”
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premium, it creates a unique proposition that he is able to make a good margin from. But he warns against just working for that margin. “Believe in what you’re doing,” he says. “Without that you’ve got nothing. You’re just four walls and some booze.”
“Food doesn’t work,” he says. “We serve mixed nuts.” He tried everything – toasties, house-cured charcuterie, and invested in a smoker – before admitting defeat and removing food from the bar, which has left him considerablely gun-shy, especially when it came time for him to design the food menu at G&Tea.
ONE TRICK PONY SUCCESS Owning two themed bars wasn’t exactly the plan when Goonetilleke set out to create his venues – he believes in seeing a space before committing to a specific idea of what he is going to turn it into – however he’s learned a few things and believes that creating a venue around a specific theme creates options that more homogenous venues don’t have. “If you do something really, really well, if you become a master of one thing, then you can lead the category,” he says. “I know that The Rum Diary is a leader as we really push the envelope and our staff are trained so well in rum. We immerse ourselves in the product. To be relevant [in the bar scene] is to lead it.” As he points out, with a theme bar, you don’t have to create a marketing strategy or to really stretch for a point of difference. The key, instead, is to make the offering really authentic and to deliver on promises – that will keep customers coming back and create loyalty. He also believes it is easier to focus the creativity of staff on revolutionising a single product or aspect of a bar rather than spreading it across a variety of options. “For us to be the best means [we have] the most amount of training
MAKE FRIENDS [and engage in] the most innovation,” he says. “So I push the guys to really innovate and to make sure we’re ahead of the game and to lead, to be ahead of what other people are doing. If we’re relevant, if we’re more new and doing cooler stuff, we’re ahead.”
CUSTOMER SERVICE CENTRAL Goonetilleke’s passion for his products is infectious, as is his determination to engage his customers by challenging their preconceived notions. “[We engage customers] by pushing the envelope, by asking them to trial, by incentivising them, and by getting them to try new things,” he says. “Through education and through growth we’ve really extended the category. We do tasting flights, we do lots of things to make people try things and see things in a different way and [see that rum] is not a single product anymore.”
LEARNING CURVE That’s not to say that Goonetilleke has never put a foot wrong. He invested a considerable outlay in creating a unique food offering at The Rum Diary, with little return – his clientele weren’t interested in buying it.
“It’s got the most gorgeous sunlit corner-spot location,” he says. “But I want to have it low-cost, low wages for kitchen, because I’m scared. I’ve been scared about kitchen costs. So I wanted to make it simple and tasty and relevant.” Goonetilleke also emphasises the importance of networking, saying that being able to get together with other operators on the Melbourne scene is good for his sanity – there are not many people who understand his issues and frustrations firsthand. “We’ve all got a nice relationship together because we understand each other and we all get together and we can really discuss great things,” he says. “There’s not many people you can vent with who have that equal understanding and just know where the hell you’re at – which is hard.” As for what is next, Goonetilleke is a little coy about his plans for another venue, though he hasn’t explicitly ruled it out. For now though, he is content to work on perfecting G&Tea and expanding The Rum Diary brand through his house-developed Spiced Rum – along with some other exciting projects that will no doubt cause some waves. b&c
G N I N ! R 5 1 U R E T O R 20 F Boutique Drinks Festival
08–09 SATURDAY
SUNDAY
AUGUST ROYAL EXHIBITION BUILDING 2015 MELBOURNE
PRODUCTS. KNOWLEDGE. PASSION.
WANT TO EXHIBIT?
Contact Shane T Williams Email: stwilliams@intermedia.com.au Phone: (02) 8586 6205
A U S T R A L I A
&
N E W
Z E A L A N D
FOR THE LOVE OF
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TEQUILA & MEZCAL PHOTGRAPHY BY PETER CZECZON
BUILDING A PORTFOLIO WHAT THE EXPERTS RECOMMEND:
Creating a successful agave spirit-focussed venue these days is a little more complicated than hanging up a few sombreros and lining up the tequila shots. barsandclubs takes a look at what is happening in the world of tequila and mezcal, and how venues can think outside the agave box.
A
ccording to legendary bartender Phil Ward, setting up a tequila bar is possibly the easiest business proposition for an operator – because people already love going to venues that serve terrible margaritas and bad Mexican food. It helps that agave spirits are currently in the midst of a boom in Australia, with drinkers looking to explore the vastness of the category. While the numbers might technically be in
decline, Patrick McEwan, brand manager of Herradura, points out that the results are down to poor performance of the market leading mixto brands, while the premium and super-premium segment is actually in very strong growth. “Tequila consumption within the Australian market is sitting right on the precipice of taking the category to new heights or falling back to where we were five years ago,” he says. “With the ever increasing licensing
pressures surrounding “shot” consumption, the only way for tequila to survive and evolve is to continue to educate consumers of the versatility of premium tequila.” Alana Deegan, of Casa de Vinos, which distributes Clase Azule, likewise believes that there is still plenty of growth left in the category, particularly in the premium and super premium segments. Similarly, mezcal keeps gaining traction on a national level. Octavio Gomez-
STYLE CLASSIFICATIONS Tequila can be classed as mixtos (minimum 51 per cent agave spirit) or 100 per cent agave spirit, then classed by age as Blanco/Plata (maximum two months), Reposado (three-12 months), Añejo (minimum 12 months), and Extra Añejo (minimum 24 months). Mezcal has recently changed its regulations and has to be 100 per cent agave spirit. It is classified according to production: Mezcal, Artisanal Mezcal and Ancestral Mezcal; then aging: white, matured in glass, Reposado, and Añejo. In reality the classifications are far more complex than this so do your research to be across the issues.
MCEWAN – Resist the temptation to pour a poor quality house product to try and save a few cents on nip-price. It will hurt you in the long run. Do your research and feel comfortable challenging what brands are telling you. Boutique producers are not always good and large producers are not always bad. GUKURU – understand the venue profile in order to match the best tequila – for cocktail venues try sipping tequilas such as Jose Cuervo Tradicional or 1800. Super premium venues can benefit from top of the range variants such as Reserva de la Familia or Gran Centenario. GOMEZ-HARO – use a low priced high quality brand like Coralillo Espadin Joven as a house pour and stock genuine artisan mezcal to give customers a make-or-break good first experience. Changes in the laws governing mezcal could soon see cheaper and lower quality versions on the market, don’t compromise on quality. Structure mezcal lists by types of agave and then price point to start a conversation with the customer. DEEGAN – Use an all-rounder Blanco or Reposado tequila for the speed rail, then how many labels you stock depends on staff ability to on-sell. Craft tequila is becoming increasingly popular, so having two to three artisan producers is a benefit. With one or two mezcal products most bars are covered, unless you specialise, then you would need a few expressions of each single varietal. REID – Get good quality 100 per cent agave tequila in the rail. Tequila is often drunk straight up you can sour people’s perceptions of the category by serving them something ordinary. Source a selection of tequilas that are not only valley and highlands but also from regions such as Guanajuato and Tamaulipas.
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TEQUILA & MEZCAL
Haro, of Casa Mexico Group, says that Sydney and Melbourne are no longer the sole market drivers, with SA, WA and Queensland starting to increase their investment, and growth is only expected to expand. While John Gakuru, of Jose Cuervo, says consumers are becoming more sophisticated in their tequila choice, and knowing more about tequila and its history, production and individual brand stories helps to deepen the enjoyment for them. According to Bildo Saravia, owner of Mr Moustache bar in Bondi and Casa Mezcal distribution, the Australian market is well educated and willing to do their research when it comes to new drinks. “They’re not the kind of people that you can just go and tell them something and they will just go ‘oh yeah, ok’,” he says. Educated consumers mean that bartenders have to be on top of their game, and there is always the issue of tackling bad tequila experiences that haunt consumers. According to Nick Peters, co-owner of Mamasita – a Melbourne Mexican restaurant that “just happens to have a killer tequila and mezcal list” – he has issues with encouraging people to drink tequila everyday. “It is our aim to convince them that what we’re selling is not the hooch we all used to drink in the park,” he says. McEwan suggests easing agave shy customers into the category by simply laying out your list by region (or more effectively) by flavour and by educating staff to customise a drinker's experience to existing tastes.
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“We in the industry know that tequila valley or heartland tequilas are synonymous with rich, earthy agave flavours and that highland tequilas are generally more floral or feminine in nature,” he says. “Consumers do not know this so continue to encourage conversation. If your guest is a fan of Laphroaig then don’t try and introduce them to agave spirits with an unaged Blanco.” McEwan reinforces that the Australian market is heavily dominated by dark spirits, so consumers have a thirst for sweet vanilla and oaky flavours – that means introducing whisky and rum drinkers to the category with a well-balanced Anejo or heavily aged Reposado. On the other hand, with customers who love gin botanicals point them toward an agave rich Blanco.
ESSENTIAL STAFF TRAINING Mamasita runs in-depth tequila and mezcal-specific staff training, including production and provenance, and regional variations. They also have reps, suppliers and brand ambassadors to do master classes, tastings and training. “We have to be able to answer customers’ questions and recommend stuff from personal experience,” says Peters. “You can always tell when someone hasn’t tasted something personally, and is just giving you the line they’ve been told.” Mamasita will also soon be the first place to have a dedicated agave sommelier to walk customers through the whole tequila and mezcal menu – that’s 150 tequilas and 30-40 mezcals. Likewise, Saravia invests
TRADITIONAL MEXICAN SERVES
According to McEwan, although it is a completely foreign notion for the majority of Australian consumers, in Mexico 77 per cent of all tequila is consumed in basic longdrink form, while the remaining 23 per cent is sipped. “Casa Herradura’s core objective is to introduce consumers to the versatility and sessionability of authentic and contemporary ways of appreciating premium tequila in long-drinks, cocktails and neat serves,” he says. Speaking at Agave Love, influential bartender Naren Young spoke along a similar line, suggesting traditional serves that can be easily replicated. The Bandera sees tequila served with Sangrita and lime juice, arranged to resemble the red, white and green of the Mexican flag. Sangrita, or “little blood”, is a traditional accompaniment and while each bar has its house recipe, the key ingredients are tomato juice, Worcestershire sauce, Maggi sauce, Tabasco, orange juice, lime juice, onion, garlic, and salt and pepper – Young recommends doubling it as a house Bloody Mary mix. The routine is then for the drinker to “cut” their sips of tequila with alternating sips of lime juice and Sangrita. Another common accompaniment is Verdita. Similar to Sangrita, and meaning “little green”, it is sipped alongside tequila and can replace the lime juice in a Bandera. Young’s Verdita features lime juice, fresh coriander, pineapple juice, fresh mint, jalapeno, and salt. Traditional mixed tequila drinks include, of course, La Paloma (tequila, grapefruit juice, soda water and a squeeze of lime), and La Betanga (a Cuba Libre made with tequila and a salt rim). The latter comes from La Capilla Bar in Tequila, Mexico, where it is stirred with a steak knife, the trademark implement of owner Javier who took over when he was 15 – he’s now 89 and still “works” the bar. Lastly is the Michelada, a concoction that again varies in ingredients from place to place – Young suggests using tequila, beer, lime juice, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco, Maggi, chipotle hot sauce, and salt.
BROUGHT TO YOU BY
Try this Herradura based variation of Sam Ross’s classic Penicillin cocktail
AGAVE PENICILLIN A twist on the traditional Penicillin cocktail, as made at Bondi’s Mr Moustache. GLASS: Rocks INGREDIENTS: • 40mL Herradura Plata tequila • 10mL Nuestra Soledad mezcal • 20mL fresh lemon juice • 20mL ginger syrup • 20mL agave syrup METHOD: Add all ingredients to the shaker with ice and shake well. Double strain over a large square ice block to serve. GARNISH: Skewered piece of candied ginger. COMMENT: This version is stamped 'hecho en Mexico' with the substitution of agave syrup for honey, and the blend of tequila and mezcal – which play very nicely together.
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MR MOUSTACHE BAR MANAGER SEAN FITZPATRICK MIXES UP THE ANNUAL
FOOD
NICK PETERS, MAMASITA “When it comes to pairing, sometimes we will have a particular spirit in mind – some of the aged tequilas and mezcals go well with certain flavour profiles. While I was in Oaxaca I learned a few nifty techniques to incorporate mezcal into dishes with sauces and marinades, and we’re starting to use more tequila in food. There is so much potential. We do vertical flights, the best thing about that is the ability to choose items from the menu that match up with certain types of Reposado and Añejo tequilas. We focus our pairings on similarities rather than contrasts. Our chocolate orange flan has a definite caramel note, and the Clase Azule Añejo has a pronounced caramel flavour, so by matching those profiles you end up with something pretty decent. You can go through the whole gamut of flavours and know that there is something there for everyone. We try to utilise earthy flavours – we’ll match up a really earthy single origin mezcal with our molé, or we’ll take something with a pronounced lemon or lime aspect and pair it with a really citrusy kind of tombola mezcal. If there are recognisable elements in both the food and the spirit, people can make the association themselves – you don’t have to hold their hand through the process. Personally, I like a bone dry, citrusy mezcal with our fish tacos – they have an achiote rub and chipotle mayo, which matches the smokiness, and with a squeeze of lime you pick up the citrus from the mezcal too. It’s a ripper.”
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a lot of time training his staff – even as far as planning on sending them off to Mexico to study mezcal. “You’ve got to work it, you’ve got to drink it, and you need to grow a palate,” he says. “And it’s not from one day to another, it’s going to take time. To see how different each mezcal is, that’s what we try to teach them and to train them.” Encouraging drinkers to expand their repertoire can take some investment. At Mr Moustache the aim has always been to educate in a fun way and through incentives. “We have the Mezcal Tuesday, $7 dollar mezcals even the ones that are usually $14 and $21,” says Saravia. “And our aim is
really to encourage people to try it and comprehend that the same as tequila, you have different flavours with different brands.” Mr Moustache is also working on a ‘mezcal passport’ or Carnet de Mezcal, designed to encourage both repeat visits and exploration of the category. For bars looking to really up their tequila and mezcal game, offering flights helps educate customers on the range of flavours available within each agave spirit. Deegan suggests choosing a theme to illustrate, such as the attributes of highlands vs lowlands, or Blanco vs Reposado vs Anejo, or contrasting the different regions within Mezcal. Gomez-Haro says that not only is it a good
TEQUILA & MEZCAL
MIXING
Phil Ward is the driving force behind what is seen as one of the best tequila and mezcal bars in the US, Mayahuel in NYC. When it comes to using agave spirits in cocktails he is an expert, and he believes that doing so is the best way to introduce – or reintroduce in lots of cases – tequila-shy drinkers to the category. Tequila and mezcal are easy to mix and quite versatile, Ward suggests using Blanco in the same way that you would use gin, while Añejo and Reposado styles can be used as alternatives for cognac and rum. He suggests that tequila and fortified wines like sherry play very well together for an unexpected combo. Though he stresses that that not every tequila cocktail is a margarita, one of Ward’s go-to cocktails is a more savoury expression of the classic that uses blanco tequila, Noilly Prat, lime juice, and celery bitters – both tequila and mezcal work better in savoury-style cocktails. Ward also creates contrasts, using tequila as a bridge to bring seemingly opposite flavours together – like a Negroni variation using tequila, sloe gin and Cinar – tequila is the bridge that brings the seemingly disparate flavours of the other ingredients together. For those looking to utilise more mezcal in their line-up, try a Negroni-style drink with mezcal, Suez, Cocchi Americano, orange bitters and a grapefruit twist.
MARGARITAS
Margaritas make great gateway cocktails, creating a positive tequila-forward experience so that consumers can get more of a sense of what the spirit is about, says Julio Bermejo, creator of the Tommy’s Margarita. And though he can be considered a little biased, he believes that the Tommy’s Margarita can better exhibit the depth of the spirit as there is no interference from the Triple Sec. Presenting a margarita session at Agave Love, Bermejo explored the idea of experimenting with the tequila in a margarita far beyond Blanco. He suggests keeping them on the cocktail list throughout winter by using aged tequila for wintery oak notes, and a woody spiciness – Bermejo recommends Herradura Resposado or Don Julio Reposado. For those really looking to up their margarita game, try a Tommy’s Margarita with a single barrel Añejo.
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TEQUILA & MEZCAL
THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX Tequila and mezcal can be used in much more than just margaritas and palomas (as delicious as those cocktails are). Mr Moustache shares some of its creations. THE ANNUAL COCKTAIL
A margarita of sorts. Glass: Fancy Coupette Ingredients: • 30ml Nuestra Soledad mezcal • Jalapeno-infused Calle 23 Blanco tequila • 22.5ml fresh lime juice • 15ml cane sugar syrup Method: Add all ingredients to the shaker with ice and shake well. Double strain to serve. Garnish: Picked coriander leaf. Comment: This cocktail has quite a kick with the combination of tequila and mezcal with jalapeno, and just a touch of sweetness, for a warming take on a classic.
SERGEANT PEPPER
Vegetables and citrus work in harmony with mezcal. Glass: Coupette Ingredients: • 45ml Arbol chilli infused Nuestra Soledad mezcal • 15ml fresh red capsicum juice • 22.5ml fresh lime juice • 15ml Yellow Chartreuse • 7.5ml cane sugar syrup • 1 pinch salt flakes Method: Add all ingredients to the shaker with ice and shake well. Double strain to serve. Garnish: Dehydrated red capsicum slice Comment: The savoury nature of mezcal makes it ideal for pairing with vegetables in interesting ways. The lime and chilli add a touch of traditional Mexican flavour.
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introduction via manageable 15 millilitre serves, it also justifies an expanded range on shelf. “You can have an entry flight to cater for new takers and a more expensive flight for more serious customers,” he explains. Peters says that he pushes flights to get customers to try a gamut of flavours despite the fact that it’s more than what they would pay for a couple of beers. “People will come in hating tequila and half an hour later they’re drinking the $25-40 nips of top shelf stuff,” he says.
CREATING AN AGAVE EXPERIENCE Consumers are savvier than ever, so delivering a positive and engaging experience will keep them coming back for more. “Given our small population, Australia is blessed to have an abundance of great venues so simply opening your doors will not ensure success,” says McEwan. “I wouldn’t look at your competitors and question what you can do better, I would look at your competitors and question what you can do differently.” Gakuru agrees, emphasising that bars need to talk history and sell passion. “Wrapped up in the history of tequila are so many wonderful stories and anecdotes that really help to engage with the category and really feel in touch with the heart and soul of Mexico,” he says. “Ditch the effortless Mexican stereotypes like sombreros or luchadores.” Saravia reinforces that while the stereotypes of Mexico are fun, they don’t really represent Mexico for young Mexicans. “Mexico is contrast and that’s beautiful. It’s a cultural clash,” he says. “And that is what Mr Moustache is about.” The bar presents a different, not often seen side of Mexico, inspired by the Francophile dictator Porifio Diaz who sparked the industrial revolution in Mexico, and launched an ambitious French-inspired building program in the capital. “He built the Palacio de Bellas Artes in Mexico City,” he says. “It’s all made of marble with this gold [dome]. All these buildings in Mexico City they just blow out your mind.” With its marble bar top, gold accents and pared back décor, the bar is clearly inspired by Mexico City, even the brightly coloured and somewhat jarring wood panelled kitchen. “You have your beautiful French building but I go and put my taco [stand] outside of there and steal your electricity, steal your water, leave my trash there,” says Saravia. “One thing that Mexicans have in common is that we have all
BOILERMAKERS
Tio’s in Sydney’s Surry Hills is leading the Mexicanthemed charge on the resurgence of the Boilermaker. With a customised menu that pairs mezcals with craft beers, it is a popular take on three key trends that industry leaders have identified for 2015 – the continued popularity of local craft beer, the rise of mezcal, and the reimagining of the boilermaker.
CERBACO LAUNCHES CYRUS NOBLE BOURBON
OTHER AGAVE SPIRITS
Those bars that are serious about agave can branch out from the obvious into lesser-known spirits: Racilla – a spirit that is only made from agave from the state of Jalisco, by around 70 producers in total. A challenging and complex spirit that is high in acidity, only around 700 litres are produced in the six months of the year that production is carried out, is considered by some to be a type of mezcal that is simply created outside the appellation. Sotol – not necessarily made with agave, this is the traditional spirit used at sacred sites. Very limited availability in Australia, it has a slightly lower alcohol level and is almost gin-like with lots of botanical flavours. According to Saravia, this will be the next boom spirit in the agave category.
eaten at one point in our lives in the streets. You’re going to find some rich nice looking girls at 4-5am eating a taco next to a bus driver and nobody cares.” Throw in the surrealist portrait that graces the walls and menus of Mr Moustache, and you have a touch of André Breton, friend of Mexican artists Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera and the father of surrealism, who vividly diarised the Mexico of the 1920s that captured his imagination. And for Saravia, his bar captures the essence of what it actually means to drink and eat in Mexico. “Mr Moustache is sort of like the sarcasm ‘oh every Mexican has a moustache or a sombrero’, we’ve just tried to make it a little more classy and very Mexican.” Creating an agave spirit experience that doesn’t rely on the pop culture version of Mexico has been exceptionally successful at Mr Moustache, establishing a precedent that can be applied to other venues that don’t necessarily seek to reinvent themselves as a cantina bar. However, Nick Reid, of Tequila Tromba, cautions that a lot more work needs to be done on educating drinkers around why agave based spirits are so special and the many different ways to drink them. Central to this is replacing the “lick, sip, suck” ritual with traditional Mexican drinking experiences – including the Bandera, as well as serving tequila for sipping alongside lime and salt. “It’s great to allow people to follow a similar ritual while showcasing the flavours of tequila instead of covering them up,” he says. Gomez-Haro concurs, emphasising that bars should change a customer’s experience of mezcal by serving it in a whisky glass, which immediately changes the way a customer interacts with the spirit and how they approach drinking mezcal in general. To incentivise this approach, he has worked with Bruxo on branded traditional glasses for serving mezcal. Likewise, in Mexico, food and alcohol go hand in hand – but it doesn’t all have to be Tex Mex, there are plenty of options from Mexico’s 10,000 years of history that are being enthusiastically embraced in Australia. “We also tried to put an emphasis in our food and maintaining [what is] a strictly traditional Mexican cuisine,” says Saravia. “Even though we present the food in a more contemporary way it is strictly traditional food – we don’t play with recipes, we don’t
invent. Leon [the executive chef] gets recipes from books that are from the 16th century and those are the sorts of recipes we are working with.” However, agave flavours present an opportunity for a more unique offering, even in venues that are not specifically Latin American themed. Gomez-Haro names Sefa Kitchen in Bondi, which has worked a mezcal cocktail into their menu that incorporates Middle Eastern kitchen ingredients and spices.
LA FAMILIA Saravia believes that Australian drinkers are clued in and interested in the families and stories that are behind the brands he has on shelf. “Every bottle of mezcal from every producer supports a family,” he says. “That means they can sustain themselves economically, send their kids to university. And they can take care of their plants so that their sons and their grandsons can keep doing the same thing.” These histories can be directly leveraged to engage customers in agave spirits and pique their interest. Deegan says that the Clase Azul bottle is not only visually appealing, but has an amazing backstory about the indigenous community that makes the bottles and the matching hand-painted snifters. The Jose Cuervo brand has over 200 years of family history behind it and Gakuru encourages bartenders to use it to articulate the diverse wonders of the tequila category and steer customers in the right direction. “The focus is on education,” he says. “Only by understanding and being able to articulate the tequila story is one able to answer to a customer’s needs.” Similarly, Casa Mexico focuses on the stories of the families that produce its mezcals – with over 300 combined years of struggle, triumph and legacy the stories of the producers make for an incredibly unique selling point and a great conversation starter for engaging with customers. It’s a similar story at Tequila Tromba. “Getting drinkers to the top end of both the tequila and mezcal categories is all about the story,” says Reid. “Take them through the people, time and artisanal techniques used to make some of the higher end products.” b&c
American Bourbon CYRUS NOBLE is now available in Australia through Cerbaco Distribution. Cyrus Noble was established in 1871, and today is still distilled in small batches from a proprietary mashbill recipe with each bottle reflecting the spirit and character of a hand made, intimate and unrushed production method. Aged for 5 years in new American white oak Barrel Casks. Made of 75% Corn, 17% Rye and 8% Malted Barley. Cyrus noble is rich and velvety with notes of caramel, toasted hazelnut and buttery toffee.
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BECOMING A MEZCALIER Nick Peters of iconic Melbourne Mexican restaurant Mamasita flew to Mexico to complete a six day course in Centro Oaxaca, making him a Master Mezcalier.
O
ur days start at eight am, and we immediately dive headfirst into a tasting that includes varietals I’ve rarely seen in Australia: Arroqueño, Tepeztate, Cerrudo, Tobaziche, many Pechugas, and more. It certainly sets the mood for a big week in Oaxaca, where the majority of the week is spent in palenques learning the craft, or out in the fields with the agave plants themselves. Our guide is Texas native Don Douglas – a colourful character who has spent the last 35 years in Oaxaca. He is a master mezcalero, and the driving force behind the Mezcalier certification. Douglas warns that the history of mezcal is so contentious that things get confusing, even heated. Many mezcaleros claim that their northern neighbours have been found short by agave’s latest boom, with stocks depleted following the 2012 glut. Norteño trucks and buyers have been
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CUTTING THE PINA
in Oaxaca buying up all available agave at inflated prices – particularly espadin and not necessarily ripe plants – and even more contentious is what’s then happening with that agave – but that’s too long a political debate for this article. Historically, many Mezcalophiles believe artefacts from Oaxaca’s surrounds show indigenous populations, such as the Zapotec and Mixtec, were distilling prior to the Spanish invasion. Others claim the Spaniards were the first to distil mezcal in the Americas, growing tired of native pulque once their imported brandy stocks were depleted. Most self-proclaimed purists believe that mezcal was always joven (unaged), that it’s always been that way, and everything else is bollocks. On the other hand, some believe that mezcal has always been aged, and out of necessity Spaniards kept mezcal in disused brandy barrels. To some
TEQUILA & MEZCAL
others it’s contradictory that those believers in Spanish-introduced distillation are the same that argue that mezcal was never aged – but each to their own.
HARVESTING THE AGAVE Let’s make mezcal – it is the backbone of the Mezcalier certification after all. Stand in the field and take it all in. Agave (like most of us) has an overwhelming reproductive desire. As the agave plants mature, reproductive attempts are made – whether by hijuelo (seedling) or the quiote (stalk) and the seedpods that grow from it. While healthy hijuelos are collected and planted later, quiotes are cut annually, allowing the precious sugars to be focused back into larger plant growth rather than diverted to reproduction. Quiotes stop growing once plants reach maturity, and indeed most mature plants are identifiable by their stunted quiote growth. Now, the tools for harvesting your agave – a machete, a sledgehammer and a coa (an incredibly sharp circular blade attached to a heavy handle). Firstly you must trim the outer leaves with the machete, which stops you getting spiked, to gain access to the base of the plant. Agave juice at this stage is super acidic – you’ll break out in a rash if it touches you, unless you slap the affected area with mud. Now, pull the agave out of the ground – this is where the sledgehammer earns its keep. Use the hammer to drive the coa into the base of the agave, at an angle parallel to the field. Then the remaining leaves are trimmed with the coa to form the piña – yep it looks like a pineapple – which can be cut smaller for ease of transportation if necessary. Be sure to use the machete to remove the cogollo, the waxy heart, unless you fancy a bitter mezcal as your end product. The pace of commercial production is slow. Teams of three experienced jimadores pull 50
COOKING THE PINA IN THE PIT
THE PALENQUE
plants out of the ground between them, on a good day. The next step is transportation. If you’re hitech you load up your truck, otherwise you’ll be strapping the agave piña to your faithful burro – that’s a donkey – and walking back to the palenque. Approximately five kilograms of agave will produce a 750ml bottle of mezcal, hence three tonnes of agave produces around 600 bottles.
BACK AT THE PALENQUE Cut the agave down to appropriate sized pieces to ensure an even cook. Next, build a fire in your earthen pit – which is a deep conical hole with stones embedded in its sides – using slow burning wood to ensure the heat stays low. Pit sizes vary considerably, from a two tonne capacity up to 15 tonne capacity. When you’re ready, cover the wood with stones – cantera is traditionally used as it’s a lightweight porous volcanic stone that traps heat for long periods of time. Cover the hot
cantera with agave, building out from the centre. Cover the agave with bagaso (spent agave fibres). These fibres need to be wet, or they’ll catch alight, burning the agave. Cover the full pit entirely with dirt, and let it cook for three to five days. Time now to contemplate life, or tend to your fields.
DISTILLATION Once the agave is cooked, remove it from the pit. Mashed your cooked agave with a horseled tahona – a carved stone wheel of either green northern stone, or southern pink stone, and weighing between two and four tonnes. Although cement-cast wheels with smaller stones protruding from the edges – to further aid abrasion needed to mash the agave – are now being used too. The tahona mashes your agave against another stone buried around one and a half metres that acts as a counter balance in the ground. Or, you can even mash by hand if you’re proper old school. Once the agaves are mashed, transfer them to fermentation tanks, mix with water and leave three to 12 days – depending on temperature, humidity and more. Don’t forget to turn periodically to allow the yeast to react with oxygen. Add the fermented mix to your still – whether copper, steel or clay (clay lasts around three distillations). Your first distillate, shi-shi or punta, sits around 20% ABV, but can be up to 35-38% ABV. A second distillation will get the mezcal to the desired level. Now, have a well-deserved drink while you decide what to do with your mezcal – presumably some sort of bottling and labelling for sale both in Mexico and abroad. Following on from our week-long whirlwind of knowledge was the Mezcalier exam – all in Spanish of course. It was a full-on six days, and an amazing, unforgettable experience. b&c
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3
GREY GOOSE'S TASTE BY APPOINTMENT
ENVIRONMENTAL CREDENTIALS
According to Laura Thompson, Brand Manager – Innovation Brands at William Grant & Sons, “Consumers are looking for new and exciting brands which have depth and personality. Listing new brands will evoke curiosity and help to build the profile/credibility of a venue.” Icelandic brand Reyka not only has a strong brand heritage – it is the first vodka distillery in Iceland – it has impeccable environmental credentials. As well as utilising the local environment – including local Arctic spring water and local volcanic lava rocks for filtration – the Reyka Distillery is one of very few in the world that is geo-thermal powered, using volcanic activity. This means the distillery produces zero pollution, preserving the natural atmospheric and water purity of the area.
4
PACKAGING
REASONS WHY VODKA IS INTERESTING ...AGAIN
1
ORGANIC
With an increasing level of health consciousness apparent in drinking trends, vodka is the obvious choice for calorie counters. Likewise organic vodka is an area that is expected to expand. Though not new – Australian brand Vodka O has been in the space for a number of years – the trend is expanding hand in hand with the consumer-driven push for transparent ingredient labelling. It is a unique point of difference that can be translated into over the bar sales. Longleaf Australian vodka is distilled in the Hunter Valley using certified organic vodka, organic hand-picked Sri Lankan Ceylon tea and pure Australian rainwater. Likewise new local brand Small Mouth Vodka uses organic ingredients and a traditional copper pot distillation.
2
CRAFT & PROVENANCE
The craft spirits space is expanding as consumers increasingly look to support boutique producers that detail exactly where
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their raw ingredients are sourced. According to Russ McFadden, bar manager at Gazebo, while marketing gimmicks may still drive some to purchase, drinkers are now savvier than ever. “People are now looking at provenance, raw ingredients and method,” he says. Archie Rose, Sydney’s new distillery is creating its vodka with neutral wheat spirit from Nowra, on the NSW South Coast. English vodka Chase, is single estate – the potatoes are grown on the same property where the spirit is distilled and bottled – a unique proposition for drinkers. WA-based Hippocampus Metropolitan Distillery creates its craft vodka with ingredients sourced from biodynamic wheat farmers Jamie and Rodney Frost in Dumbleyung. According to distiller Alex Poulsen craft spirits are a step back toward more traditional methods of production with the focus firmly on the quality of the product rather than the volumes that can be produced.
Local ultra-premium vodka brand Alaskan Rock has invested in the creation of a striking bottle that is in itself a selling point. “We can all recognise a bottle of Tanqueray Gin because it’s so iconic,” says Nadia Santomaggio, Director. “We are really interested in producing an iconic looking glass vessel that’s going to really draw people’s attention.” Each bottle is subtly different – the work of artisanal Mexican glass blowers – and is handlabelled and numbered with every detail visually reflecting the ethos of the brand. Not to mention the thing weighs around two kilos when full – a viscerally weighty reminder of the price tag.
5
MARKETING
Hippocampus is working with the trade to create a signature drink in each venue that stocks its vodka. Poulsen reports that The Classroom in Perth are working on innovating a “craft vodka lime and soda” style drink. The brand is then providing marketing support to the venues, promoting them – and of course the signature serve – across social media channels.
6
INGREDIENTS
Alaskan Rock is not only produced by a great local distillery – Lark was just awarded the top gong at the Australian Distilled Spirits Awards – its base is malted barley, creating a delicate difference in the taste profile. Though not singular it is unusual. Brands include Finlandia, Sipsmith and some guys in the US producing something they call single malt vodka.
7
NEW FLAVOURS & MIXERS
Icelandic vodka brand Reyka designed a small batch of exclusive Icelandic Reyka Bitters designed to complement the flavour
VODKA
profile of its vodka. The limited edition bottling uses botanicals foraged in Iceland including Icelandic moss, angelica leaf and crowberry juice. The recommended serve is Reyka on the rocks with 2-3 drops of Icelandic Reyka Bitters. Tea is rapidly taking over from coffee, popping up in everything from infusions to flavoured ice. Local brand LongLeaf was ranked the best tea vodka in the world at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition 2014. It is a way to easily add a tea twist on classics – bartender Mike Eason (Chiswick, Ms G’s, Aria) worked with LongLeaf to create a range of signature cocktail ideas for events such as Taste of Melbourne and Sydney, and El Circo Blanc. Stolichnaya is expanding on the resurgence of classic cocktails with the release of its non-alcoholic Stoli Ginger Beer. It is designed to both create the perfect Moscow Mule and match the distinct flavour profile of Stolichnaya. According to Allan Shearer, CEO of island2island, “Making a good cocktail in a high pressure environment shouldn’t be stressful.”
8
EDUCATION
Grey Goose created an education series for both trade, on the origins of the brand, and consumers, on taste profiles and understanding personal taste profile. Taste By Appointment engaged drinkers who are becoming more interested in knowing the origins of their food and drink, according to Prue Andrews, brand manager for Grey Goose. The trade sessions
were more in depth, covering off the intricacies of the distilling process and illustrating the ingredient story through tasting experiments. At Hippocampus, Poulsen believes that the craft vodka space is key in getting lapsed consumers to reengage with vodka. In a marketplace that has seen the explosion of the gin category, consumers are now familiar with the concept of craft cocktails and are looking around to see what else is out there. “It’s interesting that people come back. They’re more interested in the flavour and how it works in a cocktail,” he says.
9
FOOD
Cîroc has made moves to expand its pairing capabilities in the eyes of consumers, teaming up with the Keystone Group to create a vodka martini menu that matches with a range of small plates. According to McFadden, Eastern European hospitality and culture are inextricably linked with vodka and food, providing a wealth of options to engage consumers over the bar. “It is important to show guests and consumers that there is more to vodka than lime and soda, or stale brine, and that yes, vodka tastes of something,” he says. Hippocampus has also dabbled in food matching, matching vodka to a dessert course at the Taste of Balingup (WA). Poulsen says he is definitely interested in continuing down that path if the right opportunity presents itself, as it is an underutilised space. b&c
1806
e h  t f o t s e B e Th
T S E B
AUSTRALIAN
A
Opened: 2007 Where: Melbourne Recognised by: Best Cocktail Menu, Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards, 2008 Why we care: A veteran of the bar game, 1806 has gone from strength to strength since taking home a prestigious Spirited Award in 2008. For bar owner Lisa Kelly it is the cocktail menu - "the first of its kind to have classic recipes and their origins all in the one reference" – that put 1806 on the map, and keeps them at the top today. The name is a classy nod to the first year the word cocktail was defined in print - very fitting for an establishment that is all about the cocktail game. Nowadays patrons can partake in cocktail making masterclasses, on top of being able to enjoy that renowned menu that acts as a guide through the history of drinks. It will remain a Melbournian staple for a long time to come.
The Australian bar scene is certainly making waves on the international scene. Jacob Stern has the lowdown on Australia's globally recognised establishments 32 bars&clubs
AUSTRALIANA
THE BAXTER INN
Opened: 2011 Where: Sydney Recognised by: 7th place, World's 50 Best Bars, 2014 Why we care: The Swillhouse boys have developed an impressive stable of establishments, and The Baxter Inn is the jewel in the crown. Tucked away in an alley and down some stairs, the inspiration for Baxter was garnered on an American business drinking trip. 2014 saw Baxter claim Australia's highest ranking in the World's 50 Best Bars list, and with a collection of over 600 whiskies to choose from, it is no wonder why the bar is a hit with locals and tourists alike. While whisky is the focus, there is a fine wine list and good collection of beer too, and the sophisticated set-up belies the friendly easy going nature of the staff. This gift is from the minds of Anton Forte and Jason Scott, who acknowledge that they wanted to “bring the elements of a classic American bar together with our ideas on how a modern bar should run underneath that aesthetic”. It's a winning formula.
BULLETIN PLACE
Opened: 2012 Where: Sydney Recognised by: 19th place, World's 50 Best Bars, 2014 Why we care: With an ace like Diageo World Class Bartender of the Year (2012), Tim Phillips, wielding a shaker it is no surprise to see Bulletin Place scaling global lists. Wedged between a cafe and a tattoo parlour, and sandwiched by a beautiful harbour and a vibrant CBD, this establishment was destined for good things. The rotating cocktail menu, inscribed on butcher’s paper, ensures that patrons will always have a pleasant surprise awaiting them. For co-owner Adi Ruiz the inspiration was simple. “We started Bulletin Place because we simply wanted our own bar. Opening Bulletin Place allowed us to observe seasonality and the best of Australian produce expressed in simplicity and synergy with fine spirits”. It has surely been this purity of expression that has seen Bulletin Place mentioned on best cocktail bar lists around the country and the world. Long may she reign.
BLACK PEARL
Opened: 2001 Where: Melbourne Recognised by: 37th place, World's 50 Best Bars, 2014 Why we care: Opening over a decade ago, the Black Pearl has outlasted many in the Australian bar game. Perhaps it’s the fact that the Conte family has had a hand in the business from day one, perhaps it’s just the damn good cocktails. The recent addition of The Attic, an upstairs area with a touch of pomp and table service, has been a hit with all and an extra feather in an already stuffed cap. The vibe is not pretentious, the team is accepting of all, and the mood is a laid back one, on weekdays. The tempo picks up a little come weekend time, but there are always those loungers to sink into, or The Attic to hide away in. Cocktails are classy, the beer range is often twenty deep and the food menu extensive. This is an establishment for all, visit whenever, with whomever.
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EAU DE VIE
Opened: 2010 Where: Sydney Recognised by: Best New Cocktail Bar, Spirited Awards, 2011. 31st place, World's 50 Best Bars 2014 Why we care: This Sydney darling has made consistent waves, appearing in the World's 50 Best Bars list every year since 2011. The trip to Eau De Vie is like a step back in time, as old school glamour is supported by a well-constructed cocktail list, and an interior that oozes class and elegance. With over 500 spirits available, and well-maintained food offerings, Eau De Vie has nailed a consumer proposition that covers all styles of drinkers. On top of venue bookings, Eau De Vie offers cocktail masterclasses and tastings, all under the guidance of the acclaimed bar team. There is something for everyone, as illustrated by Whisky Wednesdays, a night where no drop is excluded from the twenty per cent price dip. For owner Sven Almenning, Eau De Vie is “the venue that made [his] dream come true”. When establishing the venue he recalls that “our focus was purely on creating amazing drinks and providing great service. I didn't really feel there was anything quite like it in Sydney at the time and luckily the bar struck a chord with both media and the public”. All these years later and it’s still striking that chord, what a great performance.
THE COLLECTION
Opened: 2011 Where: Melbourne Recognised by: World's Best Bars Top 100 List Why we care: Resting in the famous Bridge Road precinct of Melbourne's suburb of Richmond is The Collection bar, a red bricked establishment brimming with an old-world charm. An eclectic mix of Southern American style food with classic cocktails has worked a treat for owner Owen Westman, who loves the challenge of "being creative, and combining foods and drinks that work well together". This New Orleans inspired venture was the result of a long trip Westman took through the United States, exploring his family roots, and seeing the best of the food and drink the country has to offer. The Collection, he says, is his way "of bringing a piece of that culture back here, and showing off the cool aspects of the US that Australian's haven't heard of". Cool is the right word – this is perfect place to live out your bourbon and gin soaked Americana dream.
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THE EVERLEIGH
Opened: 2011 Where: Melbourne Recognised by: 30th place, World's 50 Best Bars, 2014 Why we care: The winner of Gourmet Traveller’s Bar of the year in 2012, The Everleigh is another long-time crowd favourite on the Australian bar scene. Echoing the images of a 1920s American speakeasy, this bar is a sister to the famous New York establishment, Milk and Honey. With sitting room only, and large crowds discouraged, this bar is perfect for those quiet evenings, romantic occasions, and, of course, impeccable cocktails. House cut ice remains a signature, and The Everleigh has expanded into its own business venture – Navy Strength Ice Co. While the bells and whistles may be taking off for The Everleigh, marketing and events co-ordinator, Zara Young, assures us that “customers will always be the priority”. The Everleigh is “constructed around what the customer wants, including drinks personally tailored to tastebuds and the maintenance of the freshest produce and finest ingredients”. This bar is one of Melbourne's best, the world's too.
AUSTRALIANA
LITTLE RED POCKET
THE ROOSEVELT
Opened: 2011 Where: Sydney Recognised: 4 out of 5 stars, Difford’s Guide for Discerning Drinkers Why we care: Think high class rock ‘n’ roll. Think elegant rock 'n' roll. It may seem like a stretch, but that is exactly what this member of the Sven Almenning stable has achieved. Leather banquets and jukebox tunes set the mood at The Roosevelt, and are well supported by one of Australia's largest collections of art deco and vintage cocktail shakers. Catering for both small groups and large parties, the Roosevelt is one of the more flexible establishments on our list – an option for intimate meals and that upcoming significant birthday. On offer is an increasingly large list of champagne, an added bonus to the strong cocktail menu, well-defined food options and friendly table service. Venue Manager Ben Hickey reflects on the history of the building in Sydney's Potts Point, noting how the Roosevelt of today has “brought back all of the history of place and recaptured it in the modern premises”. It may be a tad more expensive than the rock ‘n’ roll you imagine – but trust us, you've never imagined it quite like this.
Opened: 2001 Where: Melbourne Recognised: World’s Best Bars Top 100 List Why we care: A spanner in the works, The Little Red Pocket is a little more up-beat, a little more flashing lights than the other entries on our list, but the cocktails are great, the sake list is long, and everyone likes a party every once in a while, even if they aren't willing to admit it. During the week Little Red Pocket is a slick, wellserviced bar, offering Japanese-style tapas and a wonderful array of inventive and classic cocktails. On the weekends a DJ comes in and the party begins, but that does not derail the quality product that is the Little Red Pocket – it would not appear on our list if it did. Bar owner Andrew Hiew admits that he has “always had an affinity for Japanese culture and the high quality of traditional service”, and it is these elements that he wanted to bring into Little Red Pocket. It is safe to say he has succeeded.
THE WILD ROVER
Opened: 2013 Where: Sydney Recognised: Gourmet Traveller’s Best New Bars Why we care: It might not yet have received the global acclaim of the other bars on our list, but we feel The Wild Rover has all the markers of an international success story. It, too, is a part of a successful group of bars, being offered from the same people that brought us Grandma’s and Wilhelmina’s. It has been favourably reviewed by Difford’s and World's Best Bars, and its collection of 100 whiskies is on the rise. Although it has been described as having an Irish feel, and does admittedly feature a lot of green, this bar is nothing like the generic Irish pub seen around the world. Taking residence in an old garment warehouse The Wild Rover exudes a gritty cool, a quality you cannot put a price on. The greatest moments at The Wild Rover, for director James Bradey, occur when “people open the big green door for the first time and the crowd roars to welcome them in and their faces drop with giddy surprise… that's pretty rewarding”. The Wild Rover can expect a lot more accolades in its future, to be sure.
bars&clubs 35
It’s the first distillery in Sydney in 150 years, and needless to say, Archie Rose’s owner Will Edwards has caused something of a stir. Stefanie Collins sat down with him to get all the details
W
ill Edwards had been tossing around the idea of starting his own distillery for a decade before he decided to get serious. After following what he calls a “fairly standard corporate path” into management consulting, a trip to New York led Edwards to investigate the urban distilling scene that was, at the time, starting to pop up in the city. “I went and visited the distillers. I heard their story, and how they'd set up, and you know, they had a similar background to me,” he said. “And I also saw the similarities between New York and Sydney.” The seed was planted. “I just thought, I've got to know why it can't be done,” he says. “Because in my mind, there must have been other people who’ve tried.” Determined to find the “deal-breaker”, and force himself to abandon the idea, Edwards set about six months’ worth of research – speaking to suppliers and even travelling to Tasmania. But the deal-breaker proved elusive. That was two years ago now. Since then Edwards quit his job, bought a custom-built distillery and recruited a team that includes Joe Dinsmoor – the 22-year-old distilling wunderkind who cut his teeth on his very first whisky run at Lark Distilling on his 18th birthday; and Dave Withers – the whisky guru from Sydney whisky emporium Oak Barrel. He also took his girlfriend to Tasmania for a romantic trip for her birthday.
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Then accidentally took her to visit all of the worldfamous distilleries that just happen to be there.
CUSTOMISING A CUSTOM STILL Edwards is a details man. You can see the glint in his eyes when he talks about his stills and the process he went through to have them made exactly how he wanted. His first stop was Forsythe’s, in Scotland. The well-regarded producer could give Edwards the degree of customisation he was looking for but in 2013, when he approached them, the company was unable to deliver until the end of 2015 – out of the question for the Archie Rose timeline. Next stop was Germany, where the still producers could deliver on time but could not offer the exacting level of customisation. So Edwards turned to his own backyard and to Peter Bailly, a Tasmanian still maker. “When [Bailly] got into still making, he took a trip to Scotland, and went around trying to find the perfect still dimensions,” Edwards says. “He used to have a friend of his stand next to the stills at a known height and a known distance. Then he would recreate the still dimensions. You can go over them and – knowing what styles of whisky they produce – think about the flavour profile you’re looking for in your whisky and how that then translates back into the shape of the still.” Edwards based all the details of the still – like the diameter of the neck, the height of the neck,
the way the swan neck curves over, and the length and slope of the line arm – on the types of whisky he likes to drink himself. “For me, I like whiskies that are pretty fullflavoured, and are a little bit more viscous,” he says. “I like being able to sort of chew on it.” The hand-hammered stills were built to exact specifications in order to achieve such a whisky – the necks are a little shorter, and squatter than a standard still for a slightly richer, oilier spirit.
FINDING A HOME Being close to the CBD was always the plan, and Edwards was lucky enough to be referred to a site that wasn’t technically on the market. The owners were looking for a brewery; once they met Edwards that plan quickly was switched to a distillery. “For me, what I loved was actually going and visiting distilleries, and seeing the process of how you make spirit,” says Edwards. “In Sydney, the closest was Erina. You’re not going to get in the car and drive an hour and a half to go visit.” There was plenty to consider in the mammoth set-up task: utilities, correct zoning, six metre clearance for equipment, security (if the alcohol gets stolen Archie Rose still pays tax on it), and, of course public accessibility. Then there is licensing, which was a whole other kettle of fish. “The main challenge is that you submit this application for a distillery, and there’s no one
SYDNEY’S DISTILLERY
alive who’s ever seen one,” he says. “There’s no guidebook to run through approving a distillery, so it’s all for the first time.” With nine months spent on the DA approval and seven months on the initial licensing, Edwards was prepared for the worst when it came to the ATO federal excise licence. Instead, all his organisation paid off – the stack of paperwork he submitted weighed close to a kilo. “I’ve heard horror stories about people being there for years,” he says. “For us, our licence took 35 days. But to do that, it took about a year of calling, working with, speaking to the ATO.”
DISTILLING THE ESSENTIALS With all the pieces in place, all that was left to do was distil the spirits. Well, almost. “Joe actually moved up to Sydney, packed up his whole life, on September 8, and the distillery didn’t even exist,” says Edwards. “We grabbed a coffee, and walked through. The roof's half torn off, there's no slab, there's no gear here. And he was saying, ‘Oh, this is going to be really good, you know, we’ve got a bit of work to do’. I just imagine him thinking, ‘What have I done? Who is this guy?’” However, Dinsmoor had arrived prepared, having been working on the gin recipe for his new distillery for about a year – before there was even a solid job offer on the table. Edwards had himself created a list of 60 potential botanicals. That was quickly culled by Dinsmoor and between the two of them they began to seriously investigate between 25-30 botanicals. “Joe was reading essential oil books from the early 1900s, trying to figure out how certain botanicals and the oils within them would translate into a botanical distillate on their way through the still,” he says. “We had 15 botanical distillates, and a huge pad of paper. Joe would then add each distillate into a beaker of wheat spirit, and we would then taste, write some notes, have a discussion, and then make the next change. And the next change. And the next change, because you can only change one variable at a time, I mean, you’re literally putting .05 of a mL of lemon myrtle distillate in, and then seeing what it’s like. Those sessions went over about five full days.” The process used to create the gin is unique in that Dinsmoor is distilling each botanical separately then blending each distillate into the final product. This allows the important volatiles to be controlled, and expressed in the final spirit to their best advantage. According to Dinsmoor his favourite additions are the weirder ones – like the river mint. “I was looking sort of through these really, really basic websites,” he says. “They were some pretty classic 90s looking things, like Windows 98 specials. I was reading about river mint, and I
was like, okay, yeah, cool. This is something kind of different, it’s native, it’s not really been done before, and so I thought, we’ll give that a crack. If it turns out wrong, then we’ve just got some really good Listerine for a while.” The distillery is also producing a vodka, and although Edwards wasn’t keen on the spirit to begin with, he’s very pleased with the final product. “There was that challenge of, we’re going to make a vodka and we're going to make a vodka that we like,” he says. “And so we were really surprised, there were little notes of the sort of apple and the mint, and the sort of citrusy taste. Instead of just having a sip and going, ‘Oh, it’s vodka,’ we sort of had a sip and went, ‘Hang on a second,’ and had another sip and went, ‘That's actually pretty good.’”
Likewise in the whisky production, Dinsmoor has been experimenting with wild yeasts and German smoked malts. While the latter won’t feature in his core single malts, Dinsmoor is keen to continue experimenting with malts from local suppliers who smoke grains on a very small scale. “The first four brews of single malt used Beechwood smoked malt,” says Dinsmoor. “It was either that or cherry wood, but the cherry wood was not a super consistent supply.” Dinsmoor says he only used it for 10-15 percent of the mash bill, but the smoky flavours coming off the brew were intense and a little overpowering; thankfully the end result had mellowed. “When it came through the still, I was like, ‘oh, it’s so good’,” he says. “We’ll probably end up getting some more in, but I’d like to try the cherry wood, even just for shits and giggles.” Conversely, the signature single malt uses a brewer’s barley, with distiller’s barley to “refine” the fuller flavour of the former, and a combination of three different yeasts. As for the wild yeast, Dinsmoor has been popping the tops off the fermentation vats – each one is named after a rapper like Kendrick Lamar or 2 Chainz – to introduce some local organisms. “Not only are we sort of introducing wild yeast – because there’s not a heap in the area, but what we’re doing that for is to introduce lactobacillus bacteria,” he says. “It’s going to provide us later on in the run with a rich mouthfeel, it will also hold some really nice floral notes, that’s a technique I picked up at Lark.”
THE MILLION DOLLAR QUESTION WILL EDWARDS (CENTRE LEFT)
BREAKING WITH TRADITION For Edwards and the team, the traditions of distilling are important, but so is creating an original and unique product. “We don’t want to be hemmed in by them,” says Edwards. “We’ve created quite a traditional dry gin. An old school balanced gin. But we sub out the traditional ingredients, and replace them with Australian natives. So that’s why the citrus is gone, and lemon myrtle and blood limes are in. And herbal notes are sort of stripped down. So it still ends up with quite an old school dry gin flavour profile, but with a few things where you just go, that’s not quite what I was expecting.” Continuing the healthy disregard for convention, they settled on malted rye as the base for the White Rye that is the third offering in the current portfolio. Unfortunately, this set quite the challenge for their supplier – Bintani, which has been doggedly chasing a reliable source ever since.
As for when the whisky will be out of the barrels, Dinsmoor is not making any promises. “I’m aiming for 4:38pm, January 15th, 2019,” he says. “I’d say, my best estimation would be, for the single malt, probably four years. For the aged rye, maybe three.” And while Edwards says that he has a “crazy long list” of spirits he wants to make, Dinsmoor is a little cagier about his plans – beyond making Archie Rose the forefront of local spirits innovation. “Some of the things that we’re going to be offering in the future, I think will be unique to us. I don’t know if I can tell you,” he says. “It’s super special. We’re working with NASA on it. I call up Barack sometimes, like, ‘Yo, Barry, do me a favour,’ and he’s like, ‘No worries, dude.’” Certainly, the next step is conquering Australia, followed by the US – the market-specific bottles are all ready to go – then the UK and Europe. “Spain loves their gins,” says Edwards. “The plan is to take it global. Aside from just the geographic expansion, what we’re really trying to do is, first and foremost, make amazing spirits. That’s what we do, that’s what we’re about.” b&c
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FOUR
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TWO THREE
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BEHIND THE BAR THE PRODUCTS EVERYONE IS TALKING ABOUT THIS MONTH
DE ENCANTO 1CAMPO PISCO
Within recent history, Pisco was the most sought-after, expensive spirit in the West. Campo de Encanto (Field of Enchantment in Spanish) is a perfectly clean spirit, distilled only once, then allowed to rest, before being blended in small batches by hand. No caramel colouring. No water to lower its proof. The Acholado Pisco is a blend of four old vine grape varieties – Quebranta (74%), Italia (16%), Torontel (6%) and Moscatel (4%). The Quebranta contributes robust character and earthy notes, with delicate floral aromas and fruit flavours from the Italia, Torontel and Moscatel. Acholado is the style traditionally used for making Pisco Sours. Distributed by: Vanguard Luxury Brands 1300 DRINKS
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PENNY BLUE XO SINGLE ESTATE MAURITIAN RUM
Named after the world’s rarest stamp, printed in Mauritius in 1847, the Penny
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Blue immediately became a collector’s item. Only 12 stamps are believed to be in existence today, trading for over US$1m when sold. This second release sees only 7,000 bottles available globally and only 60 bottles in Australia. With a 43.2% ABV, it is described as a deep amber colour with golden highlights. It features tropical fruits with hints of eucalyptus, orange marmalade and rich oriental spices on the nose, with a palate that is soft with creamy oak, rich orange peel and crème caramel. It was aged in whisky, cognac and Bourbon casks, with a 10 per cent addition of rum from Batch #001. Distributed by: Samuel Smith & Sons (08) 8112 4200
PILLARS NAVY 3FOUR STRENGTH GIN The third gin in the Four Pillars portfolio is made with fresh Byron Bay finger limes as well as organic oranges. The finger lime highlights the Asian spices, coriander and star anise, and is complemented by the addition
of fresh ginger. The Navy Strength is 58.8% ABV and therefore ‘gunpowder proof’ – so you can still light your gunpowder and fire your cannons on the idiot that instigated a naval battle and caused you to spill your precious gin ration in the first place. The gin will only be released once a year when finger limes are in season. Distributed by: Vanguard Luxury Brands 1300 DRINKS
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ARCHIE ROSE SIGNATURE DRY GIN
Sydney’s first distillery in 150 years has released a portfolio of three spirits including a dry gin that features 14 botanicals, including native Australian blood lime, lemon myrtle, Dorrigo pepperleaf, and river mint. A variety of more traditional botanicals are also included such as juniper and cassia bark. Unlike the classic London Dry style, this small batch gin is crafted by distilling each botanical individually before they are blended into a final batch. This method allows the distiller to process each botanical in a different
way to obtain maximum flavour expression in the final product. Distributed by: Archie Rose Distilling Co (02) 8458 2300
5ELEPHANT GIN
Crafted outside of Hamburg in
small batches, the gin is distilled with 14 botanicals, the profile includes rare African ingredients, including the Baobab, the Buchu plant (similar to blackcurrant), and African Wormwood (a sharp floral note). Locally sourced spring water, fresh apples and other select ingredients round out the recipe. The nose has a subtle juniper aroma with an undertone of mountain pine and other herbaceous notes. Elephant Gin and its founders are passionate about elephant conservation and by contributing 15 per cent of its profits to Big Life Foundation and Space For Elephants, Elephant Gin takes an active part in supporting the foundations’ activities. Distributed by: Luxe Wine + Spirits (08) 8332 7184
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CHASE 6WILLIAM ELEGANT GIN
A single estate gin, the spirit begins with organically grown cider apples from the Chase family farm. The gin features eleven carefully chosen wild botanicals and naturally pure water taken from the aquifer running underneath the cider apple orchards. The result is a full bodied, sharp, yet fruity gin with true provenance. The botanicals in Elegant Gin include juniper, coriander, angelica, liquorice, orrice, orange, lemon, hops, elderflower and Bramley apple. The award-winning distillery was founded in 2008 by William Chase, the entrepreneur behind Tyrrell’s Crisps. Distributed by: Red Island Group 1300 673 362
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DICTADOR XO INSOLENT
The Dictador distillery was established in 1913, and is named after an 18th century rum-loving Spanish strongman who was in charge of taxes in the Spanish colony of Nueva Granada
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(the former name for Colombia), who was nicknamed Dictador, Spanish for Dictator, by the locals. Dictador XO Insolent Solera System Rum is made from the fermentation of virgin sugar cane honey. It is then aged in pre-used, re-charred oak barrels from Jerez and Port. By hand selecting barrels from each year’s vintage, and using a secret Solera system, the master blender uses all his skills to create this blended rum. The palate shows a range of flavours including fudge, vanilla and Colombian coffee, balanced with light oak. Distributed by: SouthTrade International (02) 8080 9150
DRY 8FERDINAND’S GIN
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NINE
Ferdinand’s Saar Dry Gin is small batch distilled from over 30 botanicals including juniper, lavender, rosa canina (wild dog rose), rosehip, angelica, hop blossom, coriander, and lemon scented thyme – most regionally sourced or locally grown. It is then infused with handpicked
Riesling grapes, from the Zilinken family’s Saarburger Rausch estate, which is famous for its Riesling wines. The Avadis Distillery has the ideal geographic conditions for growing its own botanicals, as well as its own wheat and barley – essential for producing the base spirit. Distributed by: Luxe Wine + Spirits (08) 8332 7184
9TOKINOKA JAPANESE WHISKY
The Eigashima Brewery, situated in the city of Akhashi, and facing the Seto Inland Sea, was founded in 1679 and has a long tradition in producing alcoholic beverages. The brand first obtained a licence for producing whisky in 1919 and has since left its mark in the history of Japanese whisky. The Tokinoka whisky is made up of one quarter grain whisky and three quarters single malt. This blended whisky has balanced flavours and a delicate texture, with peach, honey and vanilla on the nose, with a finish that is long on malted barley,
cream, vanilla and oak. Tokinoka means ‘fragrance of time’ in Japanese.
ABSENTEROUX 10 (VERMOUTH À L'ABSINTHE) Absenteroux is an 18% ABV alcoholfortified wine aromatised with herbs and spices. Produced with white wine from Provence (Ugni Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Vermentino, Clairette), sugar, distillates (coriander, anise, lemon balm, mint and more), gentian extracts, essence of wormwood and a natural aroma of vermouth (orange, plants and spices). Dry botanicals and spices are first macerated into beet alcohol then the spirit is distilled in a pot still with the botanicals such as wormwood, finally the white wines, infusions, distillates and essences are combined to create the finished product. Light green colour with glints of yellow and brown, the palate has strong absinthe flavours followed by fruity, gentian and spices notes. Distributed by: Cerbaco Distribution (03) 9646 8022
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T
he earliest beers to use the name pale ale were made in Britain sometime in the early 18th century. Maltsters had recently begun roasting malt with coke – a type of fuel made from coal – which resulted in beers that were lighter in colour than the popular porters and milds of the time. Some of these beers were referred to as pale ales, while others were called bitters and, in no time, the terms had become synonymous. It has since become customary for British brewers to identify their cask beers as bitter, while labelling the equivalent bottled product as pale ale. These days, pale ale is a rather loose term that can refer to a wide range of beers from all over the world. Considering the ubiquity of the style today, it may surprise some that American pale ale is a relatively new beer style. The late, great beer writer, Michael Jackson claimed that Anchor Liberty Ale – first brewed in 1975 using American Cascade hops – was the first modern American pale ale. However, the first brewery to use the name pale ale for a beer in the American style, as we know it today, was Sierra Nevada, whose pale ale is listed as the number one example of the style by the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP).
LET’S GET TECHNICAL
Jeremy Sambrooks takes a look at two styles: the internationally loved American pale ale and its less globally recognised, Australian pale ale cousin 40 bars&clubs
The BJCP describes American pale ale as pale gold to light amber in colour and generally quite clear with a moderate to strong, often citrusy, American hop aroma. It should have low to moderately high malt character that can be bready, toasty and/or biscuity, but the balance is typically towards hops and bitterness. Fruity esters can be moderate to none and it has moderate to high hop bitterness with a medium to dry finish. Since its early beginnings in Californian craft breweries, American pale ale has gone on to enjoy global popularity –
PALE ALE – USA V AUS
until the recent IPA boom, it was the most popular style of craft beer. Australians first got a taste for the style just after the turn of the century, when Little Creatures wowed local palates with its bold, hop-driven pale ale. Since then, it seems that almost every Australian brewery is making a pale ale in the hoppy, American style. Nick D’Espeissis is the brewer at Eagle Bay Brewing Co. in WA’s south-west and his American pale ale was recently awarded a gold medal at the 2014 Perth Royal Beer Show (PRBS). “I’ve always enjoyed European and English style brews, which the majority of our core range at Eagle Bay is based on,” says D’Espeissis. “However, after travelling to the United States in 2007, American pale ales became my firm favourite. One of the pale ales that stood out for me during that time was Dechutes Mirror Pond. Eagle Bay’s pale ale has changed over the past four years; we’re always making slight adjustments to create a bold but balanced and approachable beer to be enjoyed by all.” Another West Australian succeeding with the style is Mash Brewing’s head brewer, Charlie Hodgson. His Mash Pale also took out gold at the 2014 PRBS. “Ours is what I like to call a reasonably delicate though trueto-style US pale ale,” says Hodgson. “It’s fairly light
on malt, the hop profile is clean, not terribly resinous and focused towards some of the ‘new age’ American grown hops, but also packs a punch from Centennial hops late in the boil and in dry hopping. As with everything, it’s all about balance – ours is a touch lighter in style but has plenty to keep the craft beer enthusiast interested.”
AUSSIE PALE ALE’S RICH HISTORY While the relative newcomer, American pale ale, has taken the beer world by storm, the Australian pale ale style is older and has mostly stayed confined to its country of origin. It is a milder, subtler and often misunderstood beer style. Also called ‘sparkling ale’, the first examples were brewed in the 19th century and had a lighter colour and higher carbonation than other ales of the time. Australian pale ales enjoyed popularity, particularly in gold rush towns, but it wasn’t to last. Lager beers came to dominate the Australian market by the turn of the 20th century, leaving Coopers as the only brewer of the style for the next 90 or so years. Today, Coopers makes two beers in the Australian pale ale style: Coopers Sparkling Ale and Coopers Original Pale Ale. The Sparkling Ale is slightly darker in colour and higher in alcohol and bitterness than Original Pale Ale and has MASH BREWERS CHARLIE HODGSON AND EDDIE STILL
SUGGESTED FOOD PAIRINGS When it comes to making a successful pairing, you should try to match the intensity of the beer and the food – for example; a delicate fish dish might be a good match for a crisp, lightly-flavoured Kölsch, but it would be completely overwhelmed by a roasty imperial stout. Once you’ve taken intensities into account, it’s time to think about the three Cs: Complement (finding common flavours), Contrast (pleasant opposing flavours) and Cleanse (acidity and carbonation can cut through rich flavours and lift fats from the palate). With their slight yeasty tartness, lively carbonation and dry finish, Australian pale ales are great cleansers and make a perfect accompaniment to greasy, salty food such as fried fish ‘n’ chips or homemade sausage rolls. This also means they go well with many kinds of cheese, but avoid anything too intensely flavoured. Think Brie, Camembert, Edam or perhaps a creamy fruit-added cheese that will complement the beer’s stone fruit esters. Australian pale ales are also light enough to work with seafood or even a salad, especially if said salad has a punchy vinegary dressing.
IF YOU LIKE PALE ALES... You might also like these beers: ALTBIER: A well-balanced, bitter yet malty, clean, smooth, copper-coloured German ale. The traditional style of beer from Dusseldorf. CALIFORNIA COMMON: Also known as steam ale, this is a lightly fruity beer with firm, grainy maltiness, toasty and caramel flavours, and woody Northern Brewer hops. AMBER ALE: Similar to American pale ale but with more body, more caramel richness and a balance more towards malt than hops. Stronger, hoppier versions are often called red ales. INDIA PALE ALE: English versions are more balanced and can be less hoppy than American pale ales, while American versions have an intense hop aroma and bitterness.
The bolder hop profile of American pale ale makes them a great match for spicy Asian cuisine, but be careful as hop bitterness and chilli heat accentuate each other. Otherwise, think American soul food and Tex Mex – fried chicken, pulled pork sliders and beef tacos with fresh lime and coriander, which give a nod towards the beer’s hoppy aroma. For cheese pairings, try your American pale ale with some Emmental, Cheddar or a nice creamy Gorgonzola – mild blue cheeses work surprisingly well with the aromatic American hops.
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PALE ALE – USA V AUS
NATURAL CONDITIONING Natural conditioning, or bottle fermenting, is a centuries old technique that sees the beers undergo secondary fermentation after the beer has been bottled or kegged. While only a handful of breweries in the world still have the skill to do it properly at scale, natural conditioning actually extends the beer’s shelf life, helps to enhance its flavour and eliminates the need for preservatives or additives. It also consumes any residual sugars and oxygen, naturally carbonating the beer and increasing its alcohol content slightly. Coopers is one such brewery championing this process with all its ales and stouts undergoing bottle fermentation.
TRADITION YOU CAN TASTE Yeast doesn’t just produce alcohol and carbon dioxide during fermentation. There are plenty of other by-products that contribute to a beer’s flavour profile. These by-products include compounds called esters, which produce distinct aromas. One of the most important jobs a brewer has is to monitor the health of their yeast. If you keep the yeast happy and healthy, it makes magic happen during fermentation. Did you know? Coopers has been cultivating its yeast for 150 years. Successive generations of Coopers have been collecting yeast from their most exceptional brews and handing it down from one generation to another. The resulting yeast is literally a living tradition you can taste every time you enjoy a Coopers ale or stout.
LET THE GOOD TIMES ROLL Having done its job, the yeast falls to the bottom of the bottle or keg as a fine sediment. When that happens you know the beer is ready to be enjoyed. To have the complete Coopers experience, people are encouraged to roll their bottle before opening it. This helps move the sediment through the beer, enhancing its flavour and giving it that signature, cloudy appearance. Did you know? Coopers’ ales and stouts have a ‘best after’ rather than a ‘best before’ date? This is because the beer is not ready to be enjoyed until the bottle fermentation process is complete and the fine sediment is sitting at the bottom of the bottle or keg. Hence the need for a ‘best after’ date.
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more prominent fruity esters. Both beers undergo secondary fermentation in the package, with many drinkers opting to roll the bottle to re-suspend the yeast for a cloudy appearance. While Coopers Sparkling Ale was one of the first beers made by Thomas Cooper and has been produced since 1862, Original Pale Ale has only existed in its current guise since 1990. Prior to this there was a Light Dinner Ale produced from 1961 to 1981, which was based on an earlier beer, Light Ale, that was sold from 1895 to 1939, just before WWII. Today, Coopers Original Pale Ale is by far the brewery’s top-selling beer, making up about 52.6 per cent of Coopers’ beer sales. While some might argue that Australian pale ale and sparkling ale are different styles, the BJCP treats them as one and the same and uses the name Australian sparkling ale. The style is described as being deep yellow to light amber in colour with noticeable effervescence due to high carbonation and brilliant clarity if decanted, but it is typically poured with yeast producing a cloudy appearance. The aroma is soft and clean with a balanced mix of esters, hops, malt and yeast – all moderate to low in intensity. Malt flavours are grainy to bready, hop flavour is somewhat earthy and possibly herbal, resinous, peppery or iron-like. Esters often include apples, pears and sometimes banana. In today’s IPA and hop dominated craft beer scene, Australian pale ales are sometimes seen by drinkers as being under-hopped. “I find it frustrating when beer drinkers say (Nail Ale) isn’t hoppy enough,” says John Stallwood,
brewer and owner of Nail Brewing. “It’s not meant to be hoppy – too many drinkers misinterpret it with its hoppier American cousin – Australian pale ales are fruity and not hoppy.” Stallwood should know; his Nail Ale has won three gold medals at the Australian International Beer Awards, more than any other beer of its style. “The key is to get the fruitiness and bitterness right,” says Stallwood. “Like brewing any other beer, the harder you work, the more you concentrate on it (the better it gets) and drinking lots of it helps!”
A ‘NEW WORLD’ FOR PALE ALES Recently, a number of beers have emerged which don’t fit neatly into any particular style. The rise of ‘new world’ hop varieties from Australia and New Zealand has blurred the lines and created a substyle: new world pale ale. Popular examples include Stone & Wood Pacific Ale and Bridge Road Beechworth Ale. The latter is is brewed by Ben Kraus, owner of Bridge Road Brewers. “We’ve always described Beechworth Ale as our flagship brew, as it’s a beer that showcases hops and getting the balance just right,” says Kraus. “The challenge always comes from the hops. We blend up to six different hop varieties in Beechworth Ale in order to get the hop flavour profile we’re after. All it takes is for one of these varieties to run out of stock, or for new seasonal variations to appear and we’re back to the drawing board.” b&c This article first appeared in Beer & Brewer.
GLASSWARE Many brewpubs and bars will serve their pale ales in a shaker pint glass because they are cheap, sturdy and easy to stack. However, to better enjoy the beer, you should opt for a British-style pint glass – also known as a Nonic. Bulging near the rim, the Nonic pint allows for a larger, longerlasting head and keeps more of the volatile hop aromas in the glass for your nose’s enjoyment.
DRINK LOCAL Try these eight local pale ales: 1. Coopers Pale Ale – the beer that defines the Australian pale ale style 2. Nail Ale – multi-award-winning Australian pale ale 3. Lord Nelson Three Sheets – produced at the iconic Sydney brewery 4. Little Creatures Pale Ale – the classic that started Australia’s love affair with American pales NAIL BREWING’S 5. Eagle Bay Pale Ale – a maltier, balanced American pale ale JOHN STALLWOOD 6. Mash Pale – a lighter bodied American pale, very hoppy and aromatic 7. Bridge Road Beechworth Ale – a ‘new world’ pale brewed using American and NZ hops 8. James Squire Hop Thief 7 – a fresh, earthy, malty American-style pale ale using Galaxy and Mosaic hops. The hop blend changes from batch to batch.
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