NO.771 APRIL 2021
PASTA • GROWER CHAMPAGNE • MILK ALTERNATIVES • SOUL DINING + SOUL DELI
CONTENTS // April
Contents APRIL 2021
22
Regulars 6 // IN FOCUS The Migrant Resource Centre Tasmania is providing opportunity to workers and the dining public alike. 8 // NEWS The latest openings, books, products and more. 10 // PRODUCE Jackfruit has plenty of potential just waiting to be unlocked. 14 // BEST PRACTICE Dreams don’t always align with reality — some tips to push past opening hurdles.
2 | Hospitality
30
16 // DRINKS Grower Champagne is making waves in the local market. 22 // PROFILE Soul Dining and Soul Deli are redefining Korean cuisine in Sydney. 36 // BEHIND THE SCENES Matteo Downtown’s beef tartare on brioche. 48 // EQUIPMENT Create uniform gnocchi with a wooden board. 50 // 5 MINUTES WITH … Alejandro Saravia from Farmer’s Daughters.
26
Features 26 // WOODCUT The restaurant’s commitment to working with artisans is nothing short of awe-inspiring. 30 // PASTA Two chefs on nailing the basics. 36 // MILK ALTERNATIVES Get the lowdown on everything from soy to almond and oat milks. 42 // KITCHEN HYGIENE Maintain a safe environment for customers and staff.
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EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello
Social
Keep up with the Hospitality team
CHEERS TO THAT Check out our Sbagliato masterclass with Glorietta on our IGTV. @hospitalitymagazine
All in the details I DON’T KNOW about you, but I always find
vases. Collaborating with makers has
myself lifting up plates and glasses to seek
always been at the crux of Ross and Sunny’s
out the maker’s name when I dine out. While
restaurants, and they simply couldn’t do it
food and drink form an experience, it’s the
any other way.
little things like a perfectly imperfect bowl
This issue, we also cover milk alternatives
or a hand-carved steak knife that form
and what to look for when selecting a new
a journey.
product; go back to pasta-making basics;
Woodcut by Ross and Sunny Lusted opened
explore the versatility of jackfruit and talk to
its doors in Crown Sydney last year, and
Alejandro Saravia about opening Farmer’s
the restaurant is brimming with work from
Daughters in Melbourne, which heroes
Australian artists and artisans. The steel walls
Gippsland producers.
are made by the same man who crafted the
SNACK ATTACK Farewelling the warmer weather with a plate of tomatoes at Hotel Centennial — and a flatbread and prawns for good measure. @annabellecloros
I hope you enjoy this issue.
‘bricks’ for the kitchen’s signature chicken dish, and a chance encounter on Instagram
Annabelle Cloros
led to Penelope Duke producing bespoke
Editor
DYNAMIC DUOS Darren Robertson is hosting monthly events at Oma Food & Wine with chefs including Luke Powell, Alana Sapwell and Casey Wall. @hospitalitymagazine
Follow us @hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au JOURNALIST Kirsty Sier T: 02 8586 6194 ksier@intermedia.com.au
ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au GRAPHIC DESIGNER Ryan Vizcarra ryanv@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au
CIRCULATIONS subscriptions@intermedia.com.au To subscribe please call 1800 651 422. hospitalitymagazine.com.au facebook.com/ HospitalityMagazine twitter.com/Hospitalityed instagram.com/hospitalitymag
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4 | Hospitality
IN FOCUS // Migrant Resource Centre Tasmania
The good kitchen Migrant Resource Centre Tasmania gives migrants and refugees experience in a commercial kitchen and the opportunity to share their dishes with the public. WORDS Kirsty Sier PHOTOGRAPHY Migrant Resource Centre Tasmania
IF YOU WERE travelling through
experience and training to
The intersection between
sparks ideas for a new dish,
East Africa, you might find
people from migrant and
migrant support services and
and often we have a large
yourself eating kitcha fit-fit
refugee backgrounds.
community enrichment really
donation of fresh produce
shines in the MRC Tas kitchen.
from Government House
for breakfast. In Eritrea, the
Founded in 1979, the not-
traditional dish is made from
for-profit organisation was
Participants in the program
Tasmania or a private garden
leftover kitcha — unleavened
established in response to a
come from a wide variety of
to use,” says Food Manager
flatbread made from flour,
need for services that assisted
backgrounds, bringing an array
Megan Quill, who co-owned
water and salt — that is
new and existing migrants with
of cooking traditions. Most have
and operated Tricycle café in
shredded, fried with clarified
the process of settlement in
extensive cooking experience,
Salamanca Place. “The team
butter and spices and served
Australia. Today, the centre
but the MRC Tas kitchen aims
works together to decide which
with plain yoghurt for dipping.
empowers migrants and
to expose participants to daily
dishes or pickles to make with
It’s one of the dishes you
refugees to live fulfilling lives in
life in a commercial Australian
the produce.”
might expect to come out of
Tasmania through an extensive
kitchen and give them the
the kitchen at Migrant Resource
range of services and projects,
chance to serve their food to
shape the menu at MRC Tas,
Centre Tasmania (MRC Tas), a
such as employment support
the community.
which changes on a week-
Hobart-based social enterprise
and life skills programs.
project that provides work 6 | Hospitality
“Each week, our casual staff bring in dishes to share, which
It is the participants who
by-week basis. The menu is announced via the centre’s
Facebook and Instagram pages
cheese and silverbeet fritters
each Wednesday, with the
and basboussah, a walnut and
kitchen opening to the public
semolina cake with rose syrup.
between 9:30am and 2:30pm Wednesday to Friday. “We have some dishes that
“We might need to roast some coffee on the stove Eritrean style, and we are always
may stay on the menu for
cooking injera [a fermented
a while but change slightly
flatbread common in East
according to the season,
Africa] and frying falafel fresh
while other dishes are brand
for lunch service,” says Quill.
new,” says Quill. “New work
The commercial kitchen
experience participants may
experience extends to the
contribute an idea after being
catering service that is also
asked what their favourite food
offered by MRC Tas. To date,
is or what they cook for their
the team has catered to a wide
family. When we are finalising
variety of events — one of their
what the final dish will taste
first jobs was cooking soup for
of the migrant and refugee
and delighted to discover new
like we ask, ‘What would your
600 attendees of the Australian
team members, many of whom
techniques and new ways of
grandma say?’ It is important
Ceramics Triennale. They have
aspire to open their own small
cooking with local ingredients.
the dishes are authentic as well
also been contracted to cater
businesses or restaurants
“Participants in the program
as delicious.”
Dark Mofo’s ideas festival,
after graduating from the
have benefitted in a variety of
Dark and Dangerous Thoughts,
kitchen program.
ways. The experience in the
Some of the recent menu items
and have held a series of
to have come out of the MRC
market stalls at Hobart’s Farm
the kitchen supervisors, learn
it is the sharing of traditional
Tas kitchen include momo,
Gate Market.
something new every day,”
recipes that creates a sense of
says Quill. “There is so much to
pride and helps create positive
Bhutanese steamed dumplings;
Part of the income generated
“The entire team, including
kitchen builds confidence, but
waakye, a Ghanaian dish of
from these activities is used
know about the world of food,
relationships between the cook
beans and rice; borek, Syrian
to further the cooking careers
and we are always surprised
and their guests.” ■ April 2021 | 7
IN FOCUS // Migrant Resource Centre Tasmania
“The experience in the kitchen builds confidence, but it is the sharing of traditional recipes that creates a sense of pride and helps create positive relationships between the cook and their guests.” – Megan Quill
NEWS // Entrée
Entrée
The latest openings, books, events and more. EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros
Momofuku Seiobo closes David Chang’s Momofuku Seiobo will bow out of the Sydney dining scene in the coming months. The acclaimed restaurant, led by General Manager Kylie Javier Ashton and Executive Chef Paul Carmichael, opened in The Star in 2011 and will serve its last guests on 26 June. The decision was made to end on a “high note” by Chang, Javier Ashton and Carmichael. “When our lease was up for renewal, we realised
Non expands zero-alcohol range
that the most sustainable thing we could do was to finish our time on
Melbourne-based beverage company Non has added a new addition
top,” Javier Ashton posted on Instagram. Seiobo is fully booked, so it’s
to its core range. Non #6 combines flavours of tomato water, roasted
worth joining the cancellations list. seiobo.momofuku.com
red pepper, coriander seed, celery seed, fresh basil and nutritional yeast. The beverage is aimed at Bloody Mary fans and has been designed to pair with food from herb-heavy cuisines to salty fishes and punchy cheeses. #6 is now available from boutique wine stores or from non.world
50,000 years on a plate Australia: The Cookbook Ross Dobson Phaidon; $65 Food writer, chef and food stylist Ross Dobson has curated a book that celebrates Australia’s diverse culinary influences and traditions. Australia: The Cookbook spans the many cuisines that make up our local landscape
First Love Coffee arrives in Melbourne’s CBD
alongside 350 recipes from chefs
The team behind Rustica have launched a coffee bar on Collins
including Mark Olive, O Tama Carey and Dan Hunter. Readers
Street. First Love Coffee has been designed for standing room only,
can try their hand at everything from stir-fried native greens to
with diners encouraged to sip their coffee and sample a pastry
Thai kangaroo salad and red flowering eucalyptus ice cream. The
or take a dish to go. Menu items include a bacon and egg roll,
book also contains an essay from Jody Orcher, a Ularai Barkandji
sandwiches made with Rustica’s sourdough and a miso cauliflower
woman from Brewarrina, which covers Indigenous Australian
and quinoa salad, to name a few. First Love is brewing a house blend
native bushfoods and the importance of acknowledging and
and also has a retail coffee offering that champions single-origin
respecting Aboriginal culture and traditions. phaidon.com
beans from Brazil, Nicaragua and Ethiopia. firstlovecoffee.com.au Photography by Rebecca Newman
8 | Hospitality
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PRODUCE // Jackfruit
Jackfruit
The largest fruit tree in the world packs a serious punch when it comes to versatility.
Jackfruit is at its
Canned jackfruit is
sweetest once it turns
relatively easy to find
brown in colour
in Australia
Skin is composed of tiny Coat knives, hands
individual flowers that
and work surfaces with
form blunt spikes
vegetable oil to prevent jackfruit sap from adhering
Commonly used as a
Typically weighs
meat substitute
around 16kg
Origins
bear fruit, once it does start producing, the
the variety of jackfruit, it will either remain firm
The jackfruit tree (Artocarpus heterophyllus)
annual yield typically sits in the 150–200 fruit
as it matures or become soft and custard-like.
hails from the mulberry family and is the more
range per tree.
famous cousin of breadfruit. It’s thought to
The fruit grows on the branches and
Culinary applications and storage
have originated in India, although the English-
the trunk of the jackfruit tree, but those on
Jackfruit makes an excellent meat substitute
language name jackfruit is believed to have
the trunk are preferable for harvest. The
and is capable of taking on different flavours
come from the Portuguese term ‘jaca’.
typical picking season runs from summer to
and textures, but pigeonholing it would
autumn, and requires harvesting from the
neglect its innate potential. The flesh can
to be the reason jackfruit trees can now be
tree itself. Once the fruit has fallen to the
be dried, roasted, added to soups, used in
found in some parts of the Caribbean and
ground, it means it has reached a state of
chips, jams, juices, ice cream and shredded to
North America. In 1792, a French ship carrying
over-ripeness.
resemble the texture of pulled pork. Its seeds
An early maritime trading mishap is thought
the fruit was captured and taken to Jamaica.
can be boiled, roasted or ground into flour.
Roughly 100 years later, the jackfruit tree
Flavour profile and appearance
made an appearance in southern Florida.
The largest tree fruit in the world, the typical
with a neutral flavour profile. Traditional uses
Jackfruit stands out as an example of a
A young, unripe jackfruit is firm and crunchy
jackfruit weighs in at around 16 kilograms,
at this stage include chopping it up finely to
food source that is highly prized in some parts
but is capable of reaching more than 50
add to punchy condiments such as sambal.
of the world and entirely overlooked in others.
kilograms. The trunks of the jackfruit tree can attain heights of around 25 metres.
Growth and harvest
As the fruit starts to ripen, it will retain a flavour profile comparable to potato or
The fruit itself has the appearance of an
cauliflower, but take on a softer texture. It is
Jackfruit trees thrive in humid–tropical to
oversized, spikey pear. It has a thick, rubbery,
most adaptable for use in savoury dishes at
sub-tropical climates. The crop is particularly
yellowish–green skin composed of hundreds
this point, with its texture capable of being
sensitive to cold and frost, and cannot abide
or thousands of tiny, individual flowers that
manipulated to either fall apart or retain
drought. Although the seedlings require a
assemble into short, blunt spikes that conceal
its form.
constant source of moisture to grow, they will
the edible flesh.
also rebel against too much wetness. With the right conditions, jackfruit is a
Once opened, jackfruit has a distinctive, musky smell, and a flavour that can be likened
Only once jackfruit has ripened to maturity does it begin to take on a sweet taste, and is best enjoyed as is.
relatively easy crop to maintain. Once the tree
to Juicy Fruit gum. The musk aroma of the flesh
has been established, it requires little care.
can resemble anything from overripe fruit to
month at room temperature, while the cut fruit
The jackfruit tree is also a perennial, meaning
old socks.
can be stored in the fridge for a week, in the
it doesn’t require constant replanting. Although a tree takes five to seven years to 10 | Hospitality
The edible portion of a young fruit has a slight crunch when you bite it. Depending on
A whole uncut jackfruit will last roughly one
freezer for two months or it can be canned and preserved in water. ■
ADVERTORIAL // RDM Pizza
Think outside the square Value and innovation coupled with Italian street food traditions is driving pizza menus.
IN REALITY, THERE’S nothing new about
and catering. “They are also perfect for to-
RDM’s products are made in Sydney using
square pizzas. They are an Italian staple on
go options in delis and cafés,” says Moretti.
local ingredients that support Aussie farmers.
the streets of Rome and are often sold as
“And dare we say it, with the functions
RDM don’t add any preservatives or additives
pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice) or pizza
industry returning across the country and
to their products and they are vegan-friendly.
al tracio (pizza by the cut). The square
increasing numbers at events, the call for
“Our products are made using traditional
shape makes it easier to cut and sell without
perceived-value menu items and maximising
techniques and a sourdough method, always
wastage and they are a good ‘grab and go’
bottom lines is growing every day,” he says.
using a ‘mother’ yeast,” says Moretti. It results
option for customers. In Australia, restaurants and pizzerias have
Moretti has experienced the challenges
in RDM being able to utilise a marginal
the sector faces with all things pizza having
amount of yeast, resulting in a light and easy-
been offering one-metre pizzas or pizza al
spent years in pizza sections and consulting
to-digest product.
metro as a value offering that also wows
to the hospitality sector on improving
customers. There has been a perception
efficiencies and increasing revenue.
these pizzas were unachievable without a
Launching RDM Pizza Australia in 2015,
The dough is then naturally leavened and pre-fermented for 48 hours prior to stretching and snap-freezing. With 12
pizzaiolo, however RDM’s square bases allow
he set about providing solutions for the
months freezer life, the bases last up to
any venue to add the squares together and
market, disrupting what was on offer and
two weeks in a cool room, making inventory
form a metre (or longer) pizza.
manufacturing traditional pizza bases and
and stock control a greater efficiency,
dough for the foodservice market.
with only 20 minutes needed to defrost
“We’ve experienced a significant uplift in our square base sales, which we believe
RDM pizza bases have been designed in
before preparation. “The pizza bases cook
has been fuelled by the current climate with
such a way that venues can achieve a high-
almost twice as fast as other brands on the
venues and customers seeking innovation
end pizzaiolo result without an experienced
market, cooking in under three minutes,”
and fun in the wake of 2020,” says Riccardo
pizza chef. Combined with the variety of
says Moretti.
Moretti, founder of RDM Pizza Australia.
sizes on offer, the bases are ideal for various
There are many benefits to using square bases and they are well–suited to functions 12 | Hospitality
You can contact the team at RDM for a
venues and channels from caterers to
sample at info@rdmpizza.com.au or visit
restaurants, pubs and clubs and cafés.
rdmpizza.com.au ■
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BEST PRACTICE // Tips to reinvigorate
Hit refresh
Reinvigorate your business approach by looking inside and outside your venue. WORDS Naomi Zavackas
in their execution. Maintaining
chance to totally wind down and
the big-picture vision you began
engage in some uninterrupted
with will be stymied if you’re
me-time, you’ll end up running
stuck in ‘I must do everything’
on empty very quickly, making
land. Compile a list of all your
trading seven days a week
to-dos, and separate everything
dangerous in the long term.
that creates high anxiety for
Have a clear look at your end-
you. If members on your team
of-day figures and choose your
have skills in areas that would
quietest day. Your customers will
help you outside of their current
understand, and when you’re
job role, include them in those
back on the boards, you’ll be
extras. They’ll feel valued and
refreshed enough to be gracious
trusted by you to help share the
not resentful.
enormous load. IT STARTED SO well. The vision
into a nightmare, and you’re
was clear; your creative juices
feeling lost and out of control.
Find experts outside of your
Above all else, quit the high and unrealistic expectations
business to help you streamline
of your team and especially of
From someone who has
your tasks. Yes it costs money,
yourself. It’s okay for it to not be
of having your own venue and
been there, here’s my advice
but your business will flourish
perfect. If your baseline vision is
doing what you love every day
to get you back to the place
under your joyful, not-
being executed everyday, your
made it all feel very possible.
you started.
overwhelmed leadership.
guests have a clear picture of
were flowing and the excitement
Then, you began fit-out, and a
Delegate your operational and
If your venue is owner–
who you are and your team are
whole set of problems you hadn’t
administration tasks. You need to
operated, close at least one day
fulfilling their roles, let it go and
accounted for came to light.
let go of things you’re not actually
a week. I can hear the push back
live a little. The favourite question
good at and hence, drown you
already. But unless you have a
I ask myself when I’m on the edge
Somehow you got through it, albeit a little more stressed than you’d anticipated. “Once I open, it‘ll be different,” you thought. “I’ll be living and breathing everything I imagined.” Once you opened, reality began to reveal itself. The dream quickly turned 14 | Hospitality
of a perfectionist meltdown is:
Quit the high and unrealistic expectations of your team and especially of yourself. It’s okay for it to not be perfect.
“Does it really matter?” Perfection is overrated, and puts so much undue pressure on a day that is already full of it. It’s not worth the price of relationships and sanity it demands you pay. ■
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DRINKS // Grower Champagne Lou Dowling and Mike Bennie
Changing of the guard The rise of the grower Champagne market is shaking things up in the elite wineproducing region — and on Australian wine lists. WORDS Kirsty Sier PHOTOGRAPHY Maclay Heriot for P + V
THINK OF CHAMPAGNE and the first
create sparkling wine called Champagne,
generally believed to be the highest quality,
comes from the right region and is made by
thing that comes to mind is the product. It’s most complex and expensive sparkling wine in the world.
For hundreds of years, growers produced
but it’s only classified as Champagne if it
grapes and the Champagne houses blended,
méthode champenoise.
exception of a select handful of growers
These days, there are roughly 260
processed and bottled them; with the
who made limited releases for their own
The French region of Champagne is
Champagne houses in existence, which
and what can be counted among their
production and 90 per cent of exports.
began to change, and we are now starting
own grapes, with the majority sourced
result is referred to as grower Champagne,
very particular about its product, and who clubhouse. The main grapes grown are Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier, along with two historic vine stocks, Arbanne and Petit Meslier. The vast majority are used to 16 | Hospitality
are responsible for around 70 per cent of However, very few houses produce their from a broad network of growers across the region.
consumption or for local wine bars.
However, a few decades ago, things
to see waves in the Australian market. The
which as the name suggests, is Champagne made by grape growers.
Sydney’s P+V Wine + Liquor Merchants was
transparency in terms of the place they’re grown
owners Mike Bennie and Lou Dowling both
Champagnes with reserve materials in an effort
one of the early adopters of the product, with long-time fans. Bennie says he first encountered grower Champagne almost 20 years ago when he was working at Best Cellars. Due to the
nature of commercial Champagne, independent
because they’re not necessarily bolstering their to try to make them more complex,” he says.
“They’re inherently the personality of the place
they come from and that’s really exciting to me.” In terms of adopting grower Champagne
liquor stores were competing against the market
as a ‘trend’, Bennie says Australia has been
time, which meant independents had to look to
of Champagne per capita combined with a
forces of larger supermarket-style stores at the alternatives to bolster Champagne sections in their stores.
For Bennie, the world of grower Champagne
was unlocked. “The idiosyncrasies of grower
Champagne are often about giving drinkers more
leading the charge due to our high consumption relatively well-educated wine market. “You
would mention Australia in the same breath as
Tokyo, Copenhagen, Paris, London and New York as being absolutely at the forefront of embracing the innovative, smaller and more contemporary approaches to wine and winemaking,” he says.
Despite a fluid market, wine lists at the majority of bars and restaurants in the country still
prioritise established Champagne houses over
independent grower Champagne. But it’s good
news for venues with them on the menu — they automatically stand out from the crowd.
Take Bistrot 916, for example. The wine list at
the French-style bistro in Sydney’s Potts Point is headed up by Sommelier Andy Tyson, who has
compiled a list that comprises 85 per cent grower Champagne. “It’s still a bit of a niche, but a lot of people have been talking about it,” he says.
“People are now interested in looking deeper into wine and for brands they don’t know about.”
One of the more exciting aspects about grower
Champagne is the chance to venture beyond tried and tested profiles such as Champagne
brut, blanc de blancs, blancs de noir, demi-sec
and Champagne millésime. Grower Champagne
benefits from the autonomy and creativity of the
individual grower. “You get more single-vineyard modellings, so more of an expression of the
vineyard as opposed to a village or a region,”
says Tyson. “Within that, you get a much broader stylistic difference from grower to grower as
opposed to Champagne house to Champagne
house. The big point is you’re buying an artisanal product from a family or an individual who
April 2021 | 17
DRINKS // Grower Champagne
“I think people are ... trying to support the smaller, the grower–producer and those doing things a little bit differently.” – Mike Bennie
DRINKS // Grower Champagne
“The big point is you’re buying an artisanal product from a family or an individual who has really cared for the grapes and cared for the product.” – Andy Tyson Bistrot 916 Photography by Jason Loucas
has really cared for the grapes and cared for the product. It’s a much smaller
production, but there’s a hugely varied selection you can drink.”
Consuming grower Champagne provides an opportunity to experience a true
expression of terroir. For Bennie, the
appeal lies with the manifold diversity you can find in a grower Champagne along
with supporting artisanal, hands-on and
largely organic producers. “I like the fact
grower Champagne producers have more contact with the growing and production
Michael Clift, Dan Pepperell and Andy Tyson
of their wines,” he says. “They’re by and
is to follow the importers. If you have a
The ‘gamble’ at Bistrot 916 has paid off
focused in terms of elevated quality rather
to good wine. “With the European wines,
says the vast majority of customers opt to
large organic-focused and more quality-
than meeting a [certain] level for a massmarket product. The wines can be more
reflective of the place they’re grown and
you can see the nuance and detail in those wines from estate to estate and sub-region to sub-region.”
Choosing grower Champagne is a way
of exploring the Champagne region in a purer way teamed with an appreciation
good importer, they will generally lead you we’re lucky to have very good importers
in Australia,” says Tyson. “They shape the Australian market more than anything.”
Bennie and Tyson agree importer Robert
Walters from Bibendum Wine Co. is a
But as a restaurateur or sommelier,
how do you go about selecting grower
Champagnes to include on your wine list?
The advice from both Bennie and Tyson
18 | Hospitality
it sometimes requires a little explaining. “I think the shift in focus is based on
engagement in the market, and perhaps
and David Burkett.
“It’s impossible not to namecheck Rob
so formidably important in advocating
to Champagne.
in favour of grower Champagne — even if
Tyson also lists Andrew Guard, Tim Stock
grower Champagne market in Australia.
sometimes a little more wild — but it’s winemaker’s vision when it comes
before, and forego the Champagne houses
the commercial reality of fighting mass-
Walters from Bibendum Wine Co. in the
the only way to experience a singular
try something they have not experienced
key figure responsible for the rise of the
for growers and their patches of earth. It’s more idiosyncratic, and certainly
for Tyson and his team. The sommelier
mix of this conversation because he was for grower Champagne and doing a lot of work around grower Champagne,” says Bennie. “But of course, other importers have followed suit, and are bringing
incredible products into Australia, so we’re sort of blessed.”
market Champagne’s price points and
a fatigue with the familiar and wanting
to explore something more diverse,” adds Bennie. “And, of course, being able to
offer drinkers something that engages for
a variety of different reasons [beyond the fact] the product is recognisable. A lot of
people will drink Veuve Cliquot and Moët
because they sense it’s a luxury product … but I think people are moving away from
that and are trying to support the smaller, the grower–producer and those doing things a little bit differently.” ■
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Home delivery ultimately proved to be
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Being able to access insights about customers helped MakiMoto understand
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their business better during that time,
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20 | Hospitality
Yoon. “But post, we have shifted focus to
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maximise the potential for them.”
Yoon says she found customer data to
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by Daily IQ to consider programs such as
also at other times, particularly when they
customer loyalty and to identify the best
opened new venues or looked at staff
way to incentivise staff to provide even
incentive programs.
better customer service.
She also says it helped them understand
Yoon says coming from a corporate
customer demographics and behaviours
background meant she could see the benefit
such as how far customers travelled to make
of data, but believes many small business
a purchase and whether they were repeat
owners may not appreciate the value of
or new customers. In addition, they could
the Daily IQ data until they use it. “It’s
compare customer spending behaviour at
quite important to know who your repeat
their different venues.
customers are and how often they come
“Pre-COVID-19, we would have looked
… the type of information you might not
at the data to understand new customers
get from your POS (point-of-sale) system,”
better and where we might expand,” says
she says. ■
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PRO17615_CBBUS_Tech Q3_PRESS_HP_135x185_v03ih.indd 1
April 2021 | 21
16/3/21 5:22 pm
PROFILE // Soul Dining & Soul Deli
Soul Dining & Soul Deli Illa Kim and Daero Lee have gone two for two, opening a contemporary Korean fine diner and a hybrid deli Sydney didn’t know it was missing. WORDS Annabelle Cloros MODERN KOREAN CUISINE in Australia
contributing to the growth of contemporary
most of his life in the kitchen, attending
recent years. Barbecue restaurants have
a lockdown idea into a business and the
in Korea before working in bakeries
has hit the accelerator hard and fast in
long reigned supreme, but a guard of chefs
and restaurateurs are looking to expand the minds of local diners beyond sizzling grills. Daero Lee and Illa Kim have done just
that with the launch of Soul Dining in
Sydney’s Surry Hills two years ago and the
subsequent opening of Soul Deli just a short stroll away. Kim talks to Hospitality about
Korean in the local dining scene, turning
addiction of opening venues diners simply can’t stop throwing their arms around. Illa Kim worked in marketing and PR before she made the jump into the
hospitality industry. So what prompted
the career change? “I married a chef,” she says. Said husband Daero Lee has spent
a hospitality high school and college
and French and Italian restaurants. Lee
secured an Australian working visa and the connections he made during the trip went
on to shake things up in a big way. “Daero came back to Korea and then the people
he worked with in Australia offered him a
job,” says Kim. “I came to Australia too and worked in an office.”
Illa Kim and Daero Lee
22 | Hospitality
When Kim and Lee made the move, they
were both struck by the local Korean food
scene. “I expected I would come to Sydney and there would be a lively Korean food
scene, which there is, but not on the high end,” says Kim. “The idea of having our own place naturally developed and we
started thinking about opening something for about two years before we actually did it.”
That something turned out to be Soul
Dining, which flung open its doors on
Devonshire Street two years ago. “Our thinking behind the concept was for
Daero to cook what he wanted to cook; he always wanted to recreate dishes from his childhood with the techniques he learned
from Italian and French restaurants. [Soul
Dining is] Korean from our perspective; it’s
Korean cuisine was quite difficult. So we
integrity. “We tried to stay true to ourselves
modern techniques.”
menu including not having bowls of rice
food didn’t come to the table the way we
Korean influences with local produce and
The launch of Soul Dining brought about many questions from diners, who hadn’t experienced anything like it before.
Hence, an opportunity presented itself
for Lee and Kim to educate the public on
a cuisine that’s prolific in not only Korea, but other cities such as New York. “The understanding about Korean cuisine
wasn’t there as much as we thought,”
says Kim. “Everybody is so sophisticated
made certain choices when we set up the to order because we wanted diners to see
how far Korean can go if you’re willing to try. People were asking, ‘Where’s the rice
and kimchi?’ but I think once they tried it, they recognised other things in our food. We also offer an experience in the way
the team put together a revolving roster of deopbap to keep staff in jobs and provide some comfort to regulars.
Kim and Lee had always considered
behind the dishes instead of just putting
on natural Korean rice wines. Bowl by
pairings and telling customers the story them down and walking away.”
terms of direction, but I think the general
junior category. But around a year in, the
end. Convincing people to spend more on
do something different. Bowl by Soul saw
opening a second venue, but they thought
The restaurant quickly found its footing
idea of Korean food is still on the cheaper
wanted it to,” says Kim. The answer was to
modern Australian cuisine does with wine
about food here; they know about kimchi, they understand what Korean food is in
and do takeaway in lockdown, but the
and nestled its way into a relatively
pandemic hit, and Soul Dining faced an
all-too-familiar dilemma: survival versus
it would be a wine bar; one that focused Soul thwarted that idea (for now), and
the pair started looking for a “hole in the
wall takeaway shop” but ended up coming across a much bigger space. “The ideas
started to snowball and we talked to so
many people in the community,” says Kim “Then we got introduced to Dan [Kim]
April 2021 | 23
PROFILE // Soul Dining & Soul Deli
“As a restaurant business, I do think we need to be versatile and have more outlets and categories to serve if something unexpected comes along.” – Illa Kim
PROFILE // Soul Dining & Soul Deli
Soul Deli has a dedicated kimchi bar
Primary Coffee are Soul Deli’s supplier
Lee and Kim worked with the same builder for both of their venues
Daero Lee cooked in fine-dining French and Italian restaurants in Korea
from Primary Coffee and we thought the space would make sense as a café. We
met more people in the Korean-Australian community and could use the space to show what Koreans do in Australia.”
So that’s what happened. Soul Deli
is very much a hybrid venue with three distinct spaces: a café, deli and retail
offering that offers curated Korean food products and wares. The venue was
slated to open in November, however
delayed permits and Christmas pushed the launch back to February. With that said, the process was a lot easier the
if something unexpected comes along. A
two people could get JobKeeper and we
same builder who we trusted and having
audience and cover multiple price ranges.”
which was scary because we didn’t know
second time around. “We went with the
another business up and running gives you
hybrid concept allows us to reach a bigger A more casual venue has also laid the
had to carry three with our own money,
how long lockdown would last; but staff
reassurance,” says Kim. “Many of the deli
foundations for more experimentation and
all know each other and our regulars have
freedom to replicate dishes seen in Korea,
moved across to the deli, but the venue
that skyrocket in popularity. “If we were
difficult because they aren’t as many
staff came from Soul Dining, so the team supported us, too.”
Spearheading a more casual venue has provided myriad opportunities for Lee
and Kim, who have seized the day when it comes to trialling different concepts.
For example, sauces and marinades were all requested by Soul Dining customers
pre-COVID, and they’re now selling hot at the deli. The past year has been a
huge lesson for operators and many are
now futureproofing new and pre-existing
a quicker turnaround. Soul Deli has the
with K-dramas playing a big part in meals in Korea, we’d have a bowl of rice with different ingredients on top of it while
watching Kingdom,” says Kim. “We can be much faster and fun about trends at the deli. A lot of people would ask us about doing ram-don at Soul Dining, but we
couldn’t because the authentic taste is with
instant noodles, but now we can cook it for them at the deli.”
concepts. “I did hear a lot from industry
While it only took a few months to get
biggest factors of their survival; same
proved to be a challenge. Like many other
peers that home kits were one of the
with anything that people can recreate at
home,” says Kim. “As a restaurant business, I do think we need to be versatile and
have more outlets and categories to serve 24 | Hospitality
Soul Deli up and running, recruiting
venues, Soul Dining lost a significant
number of staff during the pandemic. “60
per cent went back to their home countries to be with their families,” says Kim. “Only
are family.”
Some Soul Dining team members have
still needed extra hands. “Rehiring was
people with a certain level of experience; they’re either too skilled or entry-level,”
says Kim. “But things have settled down a bit and people are now looking at
employment differently; they want to stick
with businesses instead of moving around.” The wine bar may have been put on hold for now, but Lee and Kim aren’t ruling
out further expansion of the Soul brand.
“It’s totally stressful, but we have so many ideas and maybe we’ll do something with
seafood,” says Kim. “We have lots of really interesting seafood dishes in Korea we
could recreate with Australian produce.
Once you do this, it’s a little bit addictive.” ■
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FEATURE // Woodcut
A cut above Woodcut puts food, drink and design on an equal playing field. WORDS Annabelle Cloros
ROSS AND SUNNY Lusted first started
the initial design process, finding and
and I in some respects make our jobs
pronged process followed, unfolding over
and artisans, transforming a large-scale
holistic.”
thinking about Woodcut in 2007. A multimany years and just as many facets. While food and drink occupies the surface level of a restaurant, a slight etch can reveal so much more. And that’s exactly what
collaborating with new and old artists
restaurant into a series of intimate spaces
and why they simply don’t know how to do it any other way.
Ross and Sunny set out to do — create a
Working across the build and design of
but the vessel it is cooked in; a concept that
and Ross Lusted, who collated their ideas
restaurant that not only showcases food,
allows customers to interact with chefs in
the kitchen while observing an installation that hangs above their heads.
Woodcut in Crown Sydney is a restaurant
that brings together some of the country’s most talented figures across myriad
applications; culinary is just the beginning. Ross and Sunny talk to Hospitality about 26 | Hospitality
Woodcut was never a question for Sunny for the restaurant into a 40-page book.
harder by curating every part of it, but it’s The approach is nothing new for the duo,
who spent many years working for Aman
Resorts where they made connections with small- and large-scale makers. The spirit
of collaboration stuck, and it’s something that has formed the nucleus of the pair’s approach to creating restaurants.
Ross and Sunny envisioned a restaurant
“There’s no way you can open a restaurant
with multiple cooking stations and
considered and integrated — otherwise it
foundation of Woodcut. “Once we started
like Woodcut without everything being
feels like you have a procurement company who does one thing, a chef who does
another and a restaurant manager who
does something else,” says Ross. “Sunny
methods, which went on to form the
building from that, we set a clear brief for the architects so everyone was clear,” says
Ross. “It was an initial brief document that was our anchor for every item we wanted
After coming across Penelope Duke’s
Ross met an architect on a project who
see if she would be interested in making
interested in making a knife. “I blew it
‘What are the materials?’ We’re cooking in
work on Instagram, Ross reached out to
make the walls out of hot rolled steel.”
Woodcut’s tabletop vases. “We wanted
a wood oven with cast-iron pans, so let’s
Each element found within Woodcut is linked to its moniker, with everything
from Kris Coad’s chandelier of porcelain
leaves to Freehand Creations’ steak knives bouncing off each other. The pieces from
makers found within Woodcut’s walls are
vast: Kenny Yong-soo Son from Studiokyss is behind the water jugs, with a one-off
piece morphing into a design that could be replicated for a 260-seat restaurant. “We
worked with him to refine it and make 60 jugs for the restaurant,” says Ross. “We
a minimal palette and residential style and also thought about what plants
would be in the vases,” says Ross. “It took me a while to convince her and time is
what’s challenging — these projects can take a year for smaller producers, and I
understand that having studied ceramics and sculptures. It is a long process; the project is achievable the earlier we can
mentioned his son Ajax Fitton was
off and thought there’s no way he’s going to make 150 knives in a year, but he
kept coming back to me and eventually a sample arrived in the mail. I was blown
away and he did it. I was also talking to
him about needing a leather handle for a cast-iron pan and his partner works with bespoke bags and she did a template. It seems people come across you.”
The story behind Woodcut’s cast-iron
work with the artisans.”
pans is also worthy of a mention. “We went
also came about by a chance encounter.
says Ross. “They hadn’t made the pans
The restaurant’s handmade steak knives
to Oigen in Japan for the cast-iron pans,”
then sketched a sugar bowl and milk jug
and talked about how they sit with all the other pieces, which comes down to size
and practicality. I always put pieces on a tabletop and it becomes evident what’s
“They hadn’t made the pans since the ’60s and they brought the moulds out of storage. I think it took 12 months to convince them to make them for us.” — Ross Lusted
going to work or not as you start adding in pieces.”
Sunny and Ross Lusted
April 2021 | 27
FEATURE // Woodcut
to bring in. With the architect, it was,
FEATURE // Woodcut
“Everything we’ve looked at is a melding of what’s since the ’60s and they brought the moulds
Woodcut encompasses four open kitchens,
convince them to make them for us.”
cooking method (steam, smoke, fire,
out of storage. I think it took 12 months to
On the art front, the majority of pieces are from Australian artists with the exception of Eric Gushee; a Chicago-based creator
who made a piece from woven steel and copper, which Sunny says references
the rings of a tree. “Everything we’ve
looked at is a melding of what’s come
before, but also new discoveries and new collaborations,” she says. “Some of the
more obvious details like the artworks are
very deeply appreciated and people spend a lot of time looking at them, walking
over to them and really examining what
they’re about and what they bring to the equation. Each artist we’ve worked with has brought something very unique, but also very Woodcut.”
Ross echoes the sentiment, and says
each work contributes to a broader
narrative: “When we did the art brief,
it was about relating back to trees, the
with each showcasing a different
ice). The kitchens naturally form their own ‘mini’ dining experiences which
the broader space that weaves Woodcut
— Sunny Lusted
adds Ross. “He knew exactly how the light
the four kitchens which create theatre
the pieces.” Hammond’s core business is
says Sunny. “Everything centres around and engagement with chefs while also
punctuating the room; you feel like you’re in one of a series of 30-seat restaurants. One of the favourite pieces is Coad’s
chandelier of white porcelain leaves,
which hangs over the chef’s table and
was going to catch them when he selected making mining buckets for Rio Tinto, but
the maker’s varied skill set enabled him to also create the restaurant’s charcoal grill, ‘bricks’ for the brick chicken dish and fire
tools. Such is the nature of collaboration.
has beautiful movement if there’s a little
When Ross and Sunny set out to construct
are in our private dining rooms and so
experience for diners that would slowly
breeze. The golden clouds by Carly Scoufos many people seek them out and spend time studying them. Amanda Dziedzic
made a beautiful glass forest at our entry
and Tracey Deep created a hemp sculpture for our Yellow Box dining area.”
Steel walls serve as Woodcut’s spine and
charcoal ceiling; each piece relates to the
Hammonds built all the walls and it’s an
28 | Hospitality
collaborations.”
together. “It’s a layered experience,”
are a nod to Richard Serra, whose work
tactility of the materials.”
new discoveries and new
are intersected by art pieces throughout
environment or wood,” says the chef.
“Everything circles back to timber, even the
come before, but also
Ross and Sunny saw in New York. “Wayne extraordinary amount of engineering,”
Woodcut, they hoped to create an
unfurl; not just during their initial time
at the restaurant, but in their minds after
their exit and eventual return. “We wanted guests to visualise being at the counter on their next visit or think about celebrating
in a private dining room,” says Sunny. “It’s been a beautiful unfolding for us and is
one of the side effects that is very much
supported by the layout; creating a vibe and connecting people to the chefs.” ■
When passionate Aussie pig farmers like Anne-Marie & Frank come together with chefs like Ben & Mike, magic happens! Sharing skills, knowledge and passion, they bring joy to all things pork. They are PorkStars. Left to right Chef Ben Sinfield – Bahn Xeo, Anne-Maria & Frank Vigliante – Taluca Park Free Range, Chef Mike Eggert - Totti’s
porkstar.com.au
FEATURE // Pasta Tipico’s beetroot tortelli
Cutting shapes Mantecare is the name of the game when it comes to creating close-to-perfect pasta. WORDS Annabelle Cloros
PASTA IS ARGUABLY (or not) one of the
Marco Villa grew up in Southern Italy and
is a combination of books and experience.
foodstuff comes in hundreds of different
age. You see, Villa was busy learning from
learn the theory and the methods, but the
greatest carbohydrates. The yellow-tinged forms and is a vessel for one of life’s other great pleasures — sauce. Making pasta is nothing short of a skill, and while its
composition comprises just a handful of ingredients, mastering the art of pastamaking is far from simple.
found himself in the kitchen from a young the best — his mother and grandmother.
“They were the first people who taught me how to cook when I was really young,” he
says. “My mum had to work, so she taught me how to make pasta which I’d prepare
“The main difference in school is that you reality is you also learn from being in the kitchen with other chefs who teach you
all their tricks to making the best-possible pasta,” says Villa.
Sagra Head Chef Michael Otto had a
for lunch.”
similar experience — albeit in Australia.
to Hospitality about learning the basics,
significant influence on Villa, who went on
making it my whole life,” he says. “You’re
makes a good plate of pasta.
chef, most recently at Tipico in Melbourne.
Chefs Marco Villa and Michael Otto talk
pairing shapes with sauces and what
30 | Hospitality
The foundational cooking lessons had a
to study cookery and forge a career as a
As with many skills, the learning process
“We cooked pasta at home, so I’ve been taught how to make pasta at TAFE and most people have an idea about how to make it, but they don’t do it well.
pasta offering frequently, and has also
education meets the internet meets kitchen
chestnut flours alongside other additions
Otto relied on a mixed bag of formal
Sagra has started hand-rolling orecchiette more often
Sagra sources its semolina from Tamworth
experience. “I mostly trained under chefs
including the former owner of Sagra, Nigel [Ward] and the head chef Glenn,” he says. “They both taught me heaps. I also just
became comfortable enough to chat with
other chefs, which was really helpful with learning; most of it is trial and error.” Tipico has started selling pasta through Providoor
Villa first came to Australia eight years ago from Italy
The restaurant switches up the
of training.”
Pasta is made of just three ingredients:
flour, water and eggs, should the shape call for it. Of course, there are other additions depending on the dish, but flour is of
the utmost importance. Villa combines a number of flours together to create the
experimented with wholemeal and
such as charcoal and cooked vegetables. But additional ingredients introduce the challenge of reworking ratios. “We are
making charcoal pasta where we mix two flours with activated charcoal powder,” says Villa. “But adding the charcoal
made the consistency too wet and hard
to stretch, so we had to mix in semolina. Same with the beetroot tortelli we are
making now; cooked beetroot adds a lot
of moisture, so we had to adjust the recipe and mix in another flour to reach the right consistency.”
Otto also opts to mix flours, combining
best consistency. “We like to mix different
00 with Bellata Gold Milling’s semolina
“We use semolina, 00 flour and 000 flour,
Wales. “We use ¾ semolina and ¼ 00
types of flour together at Tipico,” he says. which is something new we’re trying.
000 gives the best flavour, but it’s hard to work with. Not many people use it; it’s
something used a lot in pastry. It was a
tip from a previous chef I worked with.
When you eat the pasta, it’s a completely different feeling in your mouth.”
which is made in Tamworth, New South flour,” says the chef. “There’s a little bit of
flavour with the semolina, but it’s not a lot. It’s more about how much the sauce sticks
to the pasta compared to 00 flour or bread flour; you end up with a much smoother pasta and the sauce doesn’t sink into it.” The Sagra team will incorporate eggs,
“It’s more about how much the sauce sticks to the pasta compared to 00 flour or bread flour; you end up with a much smoother pasta and the sauce doesn’t sink into it.” – Michael Otto @sagrarestaurant
April 2021 | 31
FEATURE // Pasta
Making high-quality pasta takes a fair bit
FEATURE // Pasta
While the right pieces of equipment
make the job a little easier, there’s no
denying the investment required to make fresh pasta. Tipico breaks the job up over a number of days to fit in with the rest of
the restaurant’s prep. “We make the dough the day before and then we cut, vac-pack
and store it in a cool room,” says Villa. “It
needs to rest for at least half an hour, but a day is good. When I come in the next day,
I’ll let it come up to temperature and then stretch and shape the pasta.”
Otto says making pasta is the most
demanding task the kitchen team
manages. “We usually have four pastas on and a special, so it’s easily the most timeconsuming thing we do; there’s someone on it for a couple of hours each day.”
Shelf life is also largely dependent on
the type of pasta. Filled and egg variations expire quicker but can be frozen if not
used in a couple of days, whereas a dry
extruder pasta is still good to go almost a week later.
“The sauce must be attached and combined to the pasta — it shouldn’t be around the plate. It takes a lot of experience to make pasta in this way.” – Marco Villa
but only when called for. “We use them
when we want the dough to be stretchier, so for filled pastas like tortellini, but we wouldn’t use it for spaghetti where we want more chew.”
Sourcing the right equipment goes a long way to reducing the labour-intensive
task of making pasta. There is a realm of intricate shapes such as orecchiette and pici that require a deft touch, but
making the shapes on a restaurant scale
is a challenge. Both Sagra and Tipico list
cutters, stretchers and rollers as essentials. “The stretcher cuts down preparation time immensely especially when you’re making pasta every day,” says Villa. “We also uses a 15-litre mixer.”
Otto says a gnocchi board is another
piece of equipment Sagra commonly uses along with a roller. “We use the roller
pretty much every day and we have an extruder we use all the time.” 32 | Hospitality
Tipico’s gnocchi with ’nduja and stracciatella
Working out which sauces and shapes pair
together all comes down to experience. For Villa, it’s straightforward. “When I cook
meat-based sauces such as a ragu, it can go
FEATURE // Pasta @sagrarestaurant
@sagrarestaurant
with long or short shapes,” says the chef.
“If I’m making a sauce with mushroom and sausage, I’d use rigatoni or macaroni. But
if I’m preparing seafood or fish, I stick with long shapes such as spaghetti, tagliolini and tagliatelle. Most people follow the
standard, but sometimes it’s nice to try
new things like filling up big rigatonis in the same way as cannelloni.”
At Sagra, it’s a similar story. “It’s a bit of
Tipico’s pappardelle ox cheek ragu
intuition, but ribbon-y pastas go with meat
sauces and spaghetti and firm ones go well with fish,” says Otto. “We don’t use too
translates to creating a creamy texture
‘Why did they leave the best part?’ Pasta
better. We usually bake tube pastas, but
attached and combined to the pasta — it
more important.”
much butter in our fish sauces, so it binds generally those things are my go-tos.”
You can make a killer sauce and pasta
shape, but it all comes down to how well they bind together. “Consistency is very
through mixing. “The sauce must be
shouldn’t be around the plate,” says Villa.
“It takes a lot of experience to make pasta
Fortunately for local diners, the future
masters of it.”
plate of top-tier pasta. “When I first came
in this way. People from Southern Italy are Villa is also keen to see Australians
important; it’s not good if all the sauce
approach a plate of pasta a little
pasta,” says Villa.
everywhere, but what people really love
is on the bottom and not sticking to the The Italian word mantecare is of utmost
importance when it comes to creating
a cohesive pasta dish. The term loosely 34 | Hospitality
is pasta — the tastiness of the sauce is
differently. “In Italy, we have pasta
is the sauce,” says the chef. “They clean
the plate. Here, people eat the pasta and leave leftover sauce and I always think,
looks bright when it comes to securing a
here, there weren’t that many good Italian restaurants,” says Villa. “But there are so
many good places now. Italian chefs have really imported what we have in Italy to Australia; especially in Melbourne.
Nowadays, you can find almost everything we do in Italy here.” ■
NESTLE- GOLDENCHEFS.COM. AU ENTRIES CLOSE 21 MAY 2021* *Important Information: Entry is for individuals who are AU or NZ residents working (current or recent) in the culinary industry & aged between 16 & under 25 on 30.12.21. Entry is open March 29 to May 21. Twelve regional winners will be announced May 31. Grand Finals will be held between Sept 4 - 9. See full T&Cs at www.nestle-goldenchefs.com.au
FEATURE // Milk alternatives
The land of
milk and coffee Plant-based ‘milk’ represents roughly 7 per cent of all milk products consumed in Australia. But as a barista, there are considerations to make before embracing them. WORDS Kirsty Sier
DAIRY WAS THE first and the last word
based milk accounted for 7 per cent of
— until now. If a customer was lactose
dominates the market by a long way, but
when it came to milk-based coffees in cafés intolerant, there may have been a soy
option stowed away in the barista’s fridge, but it was likely watery and lumpy, and
was definitely not made for steaming and
Toby’s Estate in Sydney’s Chippendale, it
the growth of the alternative milk industry
always do quality control and testing when
has captured a market share that is hard to ignore.
There are now more brands of milk
blending with coffee.
alternatives than ever before — but this
shifted dramatically over recent years, with
Although most nut milks are made using
The landscape of alternative milks has
a burgeoning market of not only more
diverse and higher-quality soy milks, but also a smorgasbord of nut- and grain-
based products whether soy, oat, coconut, almond, hazelnut or macadamia.
Hospitality talks to Toby’s Estate’s Elouise
del Rosario and Barista Adrian Duquilla about finding the right alternatives, the intricacies of soy and nut milks and the importance of continued training.
The rise of the plant-based milk market can be observed across the entire landscape of milk alternatives; as of last year, plant36 | Hospitality
For Elouise del Rosario, café manager at
all milk consumed in Australia. Dairy still
is not necessarily good news for a barista.
was a long process of trial and error. “We we’re choosing our milk alternatives,”
she tells Hospitality. “We’ve tried heaps of
different alternative milks and we feel the ones we’ve chosen work really well with our coffee and the blend that we use.”
the same method — generally by soaking
The Toby’s Estate flagship currently works
then blending it with water and straining to
Bonsoy, The Alternative Dairy Co for
the nut or grain for an extended period,
remove solids — the outcomes vary wildly. The texture, flavour and mouthfeel of
with three different milk alternatives: almond milk and Califia for oat milk.
The characteristics del Rosario and
plant-based milks differ from brand to
her team look for when they test new
usually with cane sugar, brown rice syrup,
balance. “Alternative Dairy Co approached
brand. Some add artificial sweeteners, agave or tapioca syrup, so that when
blended with coffee, it will taste like sugar has been added; other brands have thin
textures due to a high percentage of water,
which means they are not as robust for use in latte art.
brands are varied, and it comes down to us and we tested their almond milk and
compared it to the product we had and it
just worked in terms of the flavour and the compatibility with our coffee,” she says. “The other product had a very strong
flavouring to it, and we found Alternative
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FEATURE // Milk alternatives
“Test them out and decide for yourself which one works for your café and your coffee blends. The most important thing is how it tastes with your coffee.” – Adrian Duquilla @thenakedbarista_
Dairy Co’s milk lent a really nice almond flavour to the coffee but it didn’t
overpower the coffee itself. In terms of
steaming and pouring for latte art as well, it was also really great.
“I think it’s pretty much the same for all
the other alternative milks we have; we
wanted to make sure that it highlights the coffee we use, the texture is great, that it’s nice and creamy and the mouthfeel is good.”
Another influence on Toby’s Estate’s
brand choices was customer demand. Bonsoy ticks all the boxes when it
comes to flavour profile, mouthfeel
and workability, but has also become synonymous among soy-drinking
customers, who were specifying they
wanted coffee made with the product. According to del Rosario, working with
alternative milks as a barista is relatively
coffee is. The best training for this, she says, is practice.
“The alternative milks we’ve chosen
generally steam well and are pretty
standard in terms of burning and foaming
points,” says del Rosario. “For us, it’s more making sure the milks are cold. We try
to keep them as cold as possible and not leave them out for long.
it, before pouring the rest of the milk. “It blends it and gives a buffer before you
pour the steamed soy milk into the cup,” she says.
handle The Naked Barista, latte art is
to alternative milks. Our blend doesn’t
have a lot of acidity to it. We create our blends more for milk-based coffees,
while obviously offering single origins for espresso drinkers and black coffee
drinkers. We choose the milk based on the blend, and we try to make sure our house blend is something that can work with all alternative milks.”
Another factor to keep in mind,
still a chance soy milk will curdle when it
38 | Hospitality
bit of soy milk to the coffee shot and swirl
a big role in the blend and how it reacts
differently with these milks. Acidity plays
for a longer period of time. Different milks blends, depending on how acidic the
the baristas at Toby’s Estate to introduce a
For Adrian Duquilla, a freelance barista
particularly with soy milks, is curdling.
also react in alternate ways with coffee
To counteract this, del Rosario cautions
“Of course, different coffee blends work
similar to working with dairy, although
some plant-based milks require stretching
issue with oat, almond and dairy milks.
Even if your coffee isn’t acidic, there’s
makes contact with a hot shot of espresso — something that isn’t so much of an
who is better known by the social media an important factor when it comes to
choosing the milks that he uses. “I’m a
bit of a latte artist, so it is important for
me that I can do latte art with the milks I choose to work with,” he says. “Oat milk is the closest thing to full-cream milk
I’ve found; you do have to stretch it a bit
longer to get the texture you need for latte art and get that creamy mouthfeel. With soy, it’s quite similar to oat milk in the
way you need to stretch it to get the right
texture for drinking. I find with full cream, you don’t have to stretch it as much.
“There are some alternatives that don’t
stretch as well. There are also ones that
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FEATURE // Milk alternatives @thenakedbarista_
“We choose the milk based on the blend, and we try to make sure our house blend is something that can work with all alternative milks.” – Elouise del Rosario match differently with the blends they
For del Rosario, the cost balances out due
decide for yourself which one works for
coffee made using alternative milks will
use. My advice is, test them out and
your café and your coffee blends. The
most important thing is how it tastes with your coffee.”
A consideration for many cafés when it comes to purchasing milk alternatives is cost. Generally, prices correspond
to a general consumer acceptance that
40 | Hospitality
screw-top lids, so they last a bit longer in
the fridge. Before you open them, they do store for quite a while.”
with alternative milk products. “I’ve tried
for alternative milks, so it covers the cost of working with it. The standard 50 cent surcharge tends to cover it.”
The products also have a longer shelf
long shelf lives because they’re in the
cent almonds.
Alternative Dairy Co and Califia — have
— including us — charge customers extra
almond milk products contain just 2 products contain around 10–14 per
through the carton. But the other ones —
For baristas, there’s a lot to consider
cheaper cost,” she says. “But most cafés
life, therefore leading to less potential
per cent almonds, while higher-quality
doesn’t have a lid, so you’ve got to cut
attract a surcharge. “Obviously dairy is a
with the ratio of almonds to water. At
the cheaper end of the spectrum, most
them; particularly with Bonsoy, which
when it comes to stocking and working
the alternative milk options we have and they’re all great, but for me, nothing
will ever be as good as a full-cream milk coffee,” says del Rosario.
With the plant-based milk market in
for waste. “Alternative milks have very
Australia valued at $230 million as of
long-life milk-style cartons,” says del
continuing to expand, the positives of
Rosario. “Once you open them, they’ve
only got maybe two days before you use
2020, and with its estimated market share embracing the growth industry outweigh the challenges. ■
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FEATURE // Kitchen hygiene STRAP NAME // Second Strap
Rinse aids Maintaining a safe and hygienic environment in a commercial kitchen has always required rigorous consideration — and at no time more than now.
IT GOES WITHOUT saying commercial
Hospitality speaks to Chemist and
kitchens are busy, loud and messy places.
Founder of ViroClear Ross Macdougald and
best-practice hygiene standards is difficult.
how venues can continue to keep staff
In fast-paced environments, maintaining
It requires the right equipment, adequate cleaning products, efficient delegation
between team members and corresponding
Roy Chason from Chef and Shuka about
and customers safe through more efficient cleaning measures.
training and education.
According to Chemist Ross Macdougald,
more challenging than ever. Sanitising
product; you just need to include enough
When COVID-19 hit, the task became
venues from top to bottom has become a must, which means purchasing the
right cleaning materials and equipment
from high-grade commercial dishwashers to top-tier disinfectants is of the utmost importance. 42 | Hospitality
it’s relatively easy to create a cleaning
harsh chemicals and active ingredients in
the formula. However, it doesn’t bode well
ingredients; they’re developed to kill
something, but they’re not developed to be used in everyday life,” he tells Hospitality.
For Chef Roy Chason from Chef and Shuka in Ballina, the search for the right product had negative side effects for his skin and for his venue. “We were using different
products before COVID started,” he says. “We used them on our leather seats and
you could see them starting to fall apart because of that.”
It was also turning off customers. The
for the people using them. Particularly
various hand sanitisers the restaurant
to harsh chemicals. “There are a lot of
the skin and smelt of chemicals. Simply,
staff, who are potentially being exposed products that use way too many active
procured for use were often harsh on
it was turning customers away from the
FEATURE // Kitchen hygiene
“We use the best products and equipment we can. It doesn’t matter about price, because it will affect everything afterwards. We’d rather put the money on the right things.” – Roy Chason
restaurant as they didn’t want to put something
Although TGA testing is complex and certifies
on their hands that was irritating to the skin.
whether a disinfectant is hospital-grade, and
hospitality think it’s all about cost, because
bacteria, not all products are capable of
“A lot of people I’ve spoken to about it in
of course you’ve got to make money,” says
Macdougald. “If you want your customers to keep returning to your premises, you need to deliver something that is not going to
cause toxicity or sensitivity and that also kills COVID-19.”
whether or not it is effective at killing COVID-19 doing so within the same time period. Many
manufacturers will specify the amount of time it takes for their product to eliminate bacteria on the label, but the standard recommended wait time advised by Safe Work Australia is 10 minutes.
Obviously, the time it takes to allow a
Another consideration with any hand sanitiser or
disinfectant to become effective will impact
setting is speed. Sterilants and disinfectants
particular inconvenience at a time when most
surface disinfectant product used in a hospitality are regulated in Australia depending on
the intended purpose of the product, but
the country’s main regulatory body is the
Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA), which allocates a TGA approval once a product passes rigorous testing procedures.
a restaurant’s ability to seat customers — a
venues are already operating at limited capacity. “If you sit down at a table in a restaurant and
someone sprays it with a product that takes 10 minutes to work, you can’t actually touch that
table for 10 minutes because the product is still killing the virus,” says Macdougald.
Roy Chason
April 2021 | 43
FEATURE // Kitchen hygiene
“There are a lot of products that use way too many active ingredients; they’re developed to kill something, but they’re not developed to be used in everyday life.” – Ross Macdougald
These days, it’s more important than ever
keep a commercial dishwasher functioning
may touch, especially dishes and cutlery.
inside of the machine at the end of each
to thoroughly clean anything a customer Although regular dish detergent by
itself doesn’t kill COVID-19, extremely
high temperatures do. With commercial dishwashers in a hospitality kitchen
setting, heat is the main consideration when it comes to maintaining a clean and hygienic environment alongside
operational considerations such as size, capacity and speed.
Chemical sanitisers — many of which
are made up of strong chemicals such as
chlorine, iodine or ammonium — should also be added to the dishwasher prior to the wash cycle to aid the process
and eliminate other types of bacteria.
properly. The first is to wash down the
day with water once the dish racks are
empty. This will wash any residual food scraps into the filter, which should be
emptied into the bin, gently scrubbed with detergent and a soft brush and rinsed off before being replaced.
The jets and the rinse arms should also be cleaned out regularly. If the jets are blocked, hot water will not circulate
properly throughout the machine, resulting in dishes that aren’t cleaned properly. If the rinse arms have rubber gaskets, it’s
also important to ensure these remain in good condition.
Overnight, commercial dishwashers
“With dishwashing, we had to use the
should be left open so that air can circulate
commercial dishwasher that gets to the
up. The risk of expensive emergency
right chemicals from suppliers and a
right temperatures to disinfect dishes
and cutlery,” says Chason. “Everything
must get to over 100 degrees [Celsius]. It’s all automated, so there’s not that
much that needs to be done. We are prerinsing everything and we put it in the dishwasher.”
It should be common practice in most
kitchens, but there are several steps to 44 | Hospitality
and help to reduce any bacterial build
tools required to keep things running
breakdowns of a commercial dishwasher
the right products is the most important
can also be significantly reduced
by booking an annual service by a qualified technician.
At the end of the day, the best way to ensure venues operate to clean and
hygienic standards is to make sure your staff have the training, knowledge and
smoothly. “I think guiding staff to use
thing,” says Chason. “Staff are the most
important consideration and need the most protection because they’re being exposed to chemicals every day. We use the best
products and equipment we can. It doesn’t matter about price, because it will affect
everything afterwards. We’d rather put the money on the right things.” ■
VIDEO // Behind the scenes
Matteo Downtown’s beef tartare on brioche An in-depth look at Hospitality’s masterclass series.
MATTEO DOWNTOWN IN Sydney has put a twist on a classic beef tartare for the restaurant’s bar menu. Chef Orazio D’Elia uses beef tenderloin which is punctuated by Dijon mustard and gherkins for a punchy snack.
Ingredients 200g beef tenderloin 1 tbsp chopped capers 1 tbsp chopped gherkins 1 tbsp chopped shallot 1 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley 1 tsp Dijon mustard 1 tsp mayonnaise Salt Black pepper Extra-virgin olive oil Pan brioche, sliced into fingers Micro herbs Garlic flowers Fried capers
Method 1. Finely chop the beef tenderloin with a sharp knife. Combine capers, gherkins, shallot, parsley, mayonnaise, Dijon mustard, salt, pepper, olive oil and beef and mix together in a bowl. 2. Toast the pan brioche until golden. 3. Place the tartare mix on pan brioche fingers. 4. Garnish with fried capers, micro herbs and garlic flowers.
Scan the QR code to watch the full video brought to you by Cookers
46 | Hospitality
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Hand wash for Custom ridges create uniformity when rolling
48 | Hospitality
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5 MINUTES WITH ... // Alejandro Saravia
Alejandro Saravia The chef on Farmer’s Daughters, a three-level ode to Gippsland produce.
FARMER’S DAUGHTERS WAS never
find is me. The menu is completely
direct channel for me to communicate
natural produce available there.
meant to be a restaurant; it started as a with producers. The journey started about
inspired by Gippsland and the rich, On the ground floor you’ll find our deli;
four years ago when one of my suppliers
it’s a casual space with à la carte dining,
Honestly, I was exhausted; I’d been at a
with seasonal produce and wine from
invited me to visit his farm in Gippsland. video shoot since 5:30am, I’d worked a
huge shift the day before and I fell asleep on the car ride. When I woke up … I
couldn’t believe my eyes. It reminded me so much of where I’m from in Peru and I immediately fell in love. Still to this day, I can’t fully explain the instant sense of connection I felt to Gippsland. I began
meeting with farmers, producers, growers and winemakers, listening to their stories and learning from them.
Farmer’s Daughters is completely
different to what I’ve done before. In my
other restaurants — Pastuso in Melbourne and Uma in Perth — the restaurants are
an open kitchen and a pantry stocked
Gippsland. As you head upstairs, you’ll find the restaurant, which has two set
menus to choose from. The rooftop bar is on the third floor, where our aim was to
bring the oasis of regional Victoria to the city. There are house-made cocktails and
an amazing selection of beers, such as the Stringers Creek Pilsner, a collaboration
between Farmer’s Daughters and Stomping Ground Brewing Co. The rooftop also
features specially grown mountain pepper trees that we use all throughout Farmer’s
Daughters. It’s the flavour that represents us specifically.
The whole venue has been designed
Peruvian, the food is Peruvian and the
to bring to life the colours, look and feel
own culture and history. But at Farmer’s
of greens throughout each floor to the
menu and experience brings to life my
Daughters, the only Peruvian thing you’ll 50 | Hospitality
of the Gippsland region, from the variety centrepiece of our first-floor restaurant,
the campfire kitchen, which sits
prominently within the restaurant space. One of the major philosophies at
Farmer’s Daughters is the idea that we always ask our suppliers what they
want to sell to us, rather than us telling them what we want to buy. I think
this has made a major difference to
the relationships I have with all of the
producers we work with. An example of this is David Jones from Mirboo Farm. I
first met David because of the incredible garlic he and his wife Kirsten produce.
Now, David has become a crucial part of
the Farmer’s Daughters team and acts as our regional liaison. Another example is David Batarilo from Alpine Trout Farm at Noojee. Working alongside farmers
like him is how I became so passionate
about sharing the stories of the region.
As our menu will be changing seasonally, the producers we’ll be working with will rotate.
If a visit to Farmer’s Daughters will
inspire Melburnians to get out and explore Gippsland, I know my job is done. ■
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