Hospitality December 2023 by The Intermedia Group

NO.801 DECEMBER 2023

SUMMER OPENINGS | RAKIJA | MURRAY COD CAVIAR | CUISINE-BENDING RESTAURANTS

CONTENTS // December

Contents DECEMBER 2023

Regulars 6 // IN FOCUS Chef Joel Bennetts on fronting Burger Park. 8 // NEWS The latest openings, books, events, and more. 10 // PRODUCE Tamarind provides a sweet and tangy kick to dishes. 12 // BEST PRACTICE Is your venue ready for 2024?

2 | Hospitality

14 // BAR CART Thirst quenchers, slow sippers, and all things beverage related. 16 // DRINKS Why rakija needs to be added to your back bar. 36 // EQUIPMENT Everything you need to know about sharpening stones. 38 // 5 MINUTES WITH … Erik Ortolani from Sydney’s Ito.

Features 20 // MURRAY COD ROE One of the world’s rarest caviars is an Australian innovation. 24 // SPRITZES Shake up your cocktail list with riffs on classic spritzes. 28 // SUMMER ROUND-UP Get the low-down on the venues opening this summer. 32 // FUSION Three restaurants on ditching labels and redefining the dining style.

serve with pride this Christmas

easy to whip returns excellent yields holds well after whipping

visit our website for Kirsten Tibballs’ no-bake choc berry cheesecake recipe

EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello

Social Keep up with the Hospitality team

HAPPY HOUR The $15 cheeseburger at Bistrot 916 goes down a treat. @_amynorthcott

A note from the editor

PLATE OF THE NIGHT Martinez knows how to put up a seriously memorable tagliatelle. @annabellecloros

WELCOME TO THE final edition of Hospitality

the feature on all the new additions to

for 2023. The warm weather is in full swing,

visit during the festive period. This issue,

spritzes are flowing, and it’s getting harder

we also cover rakija, Murray cod roe, and

and harder to snag a seat — all very good

restaurants that are combining different

things for the industry. As an observer, I

cuisines without any labels.

have to say the past year has been swell for

As always, thank you for your continued

operators. While cost-of-living pressures

support of Hospitality. While this is our last

have no doubt been a challenge for all,

print edition of the year, catch the latest via

diners have continued to go out, which has

our twice-weekly newsletters and

in turn fuelled the continued expansion of

@hospitalitymagazine. I hope you have a

establishments across the country.

stellar end of 2023 — see you next year!

The growth is poised to continue throughout the summer months, with many

Annabelle Cloros

venues swinging the doors open as we

Managing Editor

PUT A RECORD ON Busby’s wine and vinyl bar is now open in Oxford House. @hospitalitymagazine

head into 2024 — make sure to check out

@hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au MANAGING EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au DEPUTY EDITOR Amy Northcott anorthcott@intermedia.com.au

ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au GROUP ART DIRECTOR – LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au

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DISCLAIMER This publication is published by Food and Beverage Media, a division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication. Copyright © 2023 – The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd

4 | Hospitality

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Average Net Distribution Period ending September 2019 – 11,506

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CONSISTENTLY GOOD EVERYDAY

IN FOCUS // Burger Park

Burger Park Bondi’s newest burger shop is fuelled by nostalgia and a new-wave pineapple ring. WORDS Annabelle Cloros CHEF JOEL BENNETTS teamed up with Fishbowl Co-Founders Nathan Dalah and Nic Pestalozzi in 2020 to launch the group’s

first restaurant: Fish Shop. The Bondi eatery would lead to spin-off venue Fsh Mkt, with Bennetts later deciding to move on and delve into the world of consulting. He released his first book (Food by

Joel Bennetts) and did a little travel, too, but it wasn’t long before the trio would come back together to develop a new concept centered around burgers.

Bennetts speaks to Hospitality about bringing Burger Park to life

and why there’s only four options on the menu.

Fish Shop is best known for its calamari with fermented chilli oil

and something else — a barramundi burger with slaw. The venue and sibling concept Fsh Mkt have slung their fair of burgers over the years. Whether it’s the OG, the tuna cheeseburger, or the swordfish sandwich — burgers have always been a hit.

Fish Shop recently celebrated its third anniversary, but the

group decided it was time to close Fsh Mkt back in August. It was a move that would lead to Joel Bennetts’ return to the Fishbowl world. “The boys said, ‘We really want you back in the business and we want to offer you a share’, so I am now a part-owner

and the culinary director of Fish Shop and Burger Park,” says the

chef. “The change in concept of Fsh Mkt to Burger Park was really interesting to me and I think the locals thought the two venues

[Fish Shop and Fsh Mkt] were too similar, so we decided to do a burger joint and give it a go ourselves.”

Burger Park is the group’s first foray out of seafood and focuses

on classic burger combinations — think chilli and chicken and beef with tomato, cheese, and onion — flavours that are both

familiar and nostalgic, which formed part of the creative brief for Bennetts. “I used to travel a lot down the South Coast and up the

North Coast of New South Wales as a kid and we would always go to petrol stations and get burgers with the lot,” he says. “It’s very 6 | Hospitality

“It’s easy to dominate a menu with so many options, and that’s why we thought it was a good idea to do add-ons.” – Joel Bennetts

IN FOCUS // Burger Park

Australiana … food from a Sunday barbecue where mum or dad would make a grilled chicken burger.”

There are just four options on Burger Park’s menu (five if you

count the iykyk smashed cheeseburger). “The classic beef burger

“I did a sweet and sour pickled pavlova with beautiful North Queensland pineapples,” he says. “A farmer pulled up in his

Land Cruiser and dumped 20kg of pineapples at the back of the restaurant, so I pickled them in coriander seeds.”

The chef has followed a similar thought train at Burger Park

has a grass-fed Angus patty, oak lettuce, tomato, Westmont pickles,

with the pineapple, dialling up the pickling liquid and thinly

but in burger form, so it has American mustard, white vinegar,

core part, so I wanted to maintain it — it’s the perfect fat cutter on

Australian cheddar, and a chunky burger sauce that is like tartar

onion powder, mayo, and cornichons and onions blended through for texture,” says Bennetts. “The smashed burger is doing well,

slicing the fruit — core and all. “I have always loved the crunchy a burger,” he says.

The buns are also worth a mention and are a collaboration

too, and so is the panko-crumbed chicken with fermented chilli

with Organic Bread Bar’s Andreas Rost. “It’s a fermented potato

made the cut in grilled form and of course, there’s a fish option

comes through when we put them on the grill,” says Bennetts. “We

mayo and shredded iceberg lettuce.” A second chicken burger has a la Fish Shop’s version which sees crumbed barramundi teamed with iceberg, tartar, and salsa verde.

There are also add-ons — a decision rooted in flexibility and

restraint. “I wanted to keep it light and leave heaps of room for

bun made with organic flours and the sweetness of the potato

worked on getting the right seed to bun ratio and when we cut

them in half every morning, they are so airy and light — they are

very different from the classic buns that look like a coin when you scrunch them up.”

A burger needs sides, and a lo-fi approach has been taken in

specials,” says Bennetts. And while burgers are commonplace in

this section of the menu as well. Fries are seasoned with table

rest which are mostly found in the add-on’s section. Beetroot and

too. “I think it’s easy to dominate a menu with so many options,

Sydney, it’s the small things that set Burger Park apart from the pineapple are polarising additions for some and essentials for others — but don’t expect any slices to come from a can.

XL beetroots are salt-baked and slow roasted in the oven before

slicing, with pineapples pickled in coriander seeds — a nod to a

dessert Bennetts made during a consulting gig in Rockhampton.

salt and there is a slaw with Green Goddess dressing on offer, and that’s why we thought it was a good idea to do add-ons,” says Bennetts. A highlight so far has come from a diner who

made their own version of surf and turf, adding crumbed chicken to the fish option. “You give people the joy of creating their own perfect burger.” ■

December 2023 | 7

NEWS // Entrée

Entrée

The latest openings, books, events, and more.

Kyiv Social opens in Sydney Plate It Forward has welcomed a new venue to its food for good portfolio in the form of Kyiv Social in Broadway. More than 15 newly arrived Ukrainians have been

EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros

employed by the group, who are plating up dishes developed by culinary experts Julian Cincotta, Nadiia Mohylna, and Travis Harvey as well as Executive Chef Vincent Dyevoich and Head Chef Borys Chernyk. Cabbage rolls are made daily, which join green sorrel borscht and plenty of pampushka on the menu. kyivsocial.com.au Photography by Kitti Gould

The toothpaste for chefs Tastebuds is revolutionising brushing for hospo workers.

Page-turner Vegan Chinese Food

The toothpaste is the brainchild of coffee professionals

Yang Liu

Tim Manning, Ben Grocott, and Jess Di Scipio who found

Hardie Grant Books; $45

cupping to be a challenge after brushing. The solution?

Author Yang Liu set out to create her own versions of classic Chinese

developing a product made without sodium lauryl

dishes that are completely plant-based in Vegan Chinese Food. The

sulphate, which is the ingredient that makes food and

book features 86 culinary creations from sauces and dumplings to

drink taste strange post-brushing. Now, culinary experts

noodles and desserts that are all made using traditional cooking

can brush without worrying about unbalanced dishes

methods — think Kung Pao king oyster mushrooms and Zhajiangmian

hitting the pass. tastebudstoothpaste.com

noodles. Recipes are accompanied by photography from Katharina Pinczolits as well as tips on how to nail each and every dish. Released 3 January 2024.

8 | Hospitality

NEWS // Entrée

Elevate your BBQ game Red Gum BBQ in the Mornington Peninsula is known for its Southernstyle meats, and now the restaurant has launched its own range of sauces and meat rubs. The collection is made from all-natural ingredients and includes spice mixes for beef, pork, chicken, and lamb. Sauces range from Grandma Mildred’s spicy and sweet BBQ to the fiery Great Grandma Rosa’s Red. Available from select local retailers, in-store, or online. redgumbbq.com.au

Seven days of vermouth Melbourne institution Marion is celebrating summer in the best way — with vermouth. The wine bar is now open for lunch and is offering an extensive vermouth list alongside a dedicated snacks menu. Guests can sip on Saison’s Fallen Quinces or Ochota Barrels’ Botanicals and order octopus toast with spicy tomatoes or marinated chilled Diamond clams with chilli and parsley. marionwine.com.au

Brew time Campos Coffee has collaborated with local illustrator and graphic designer Annie Walter for its festive blend packaging. Walter was inspired by native flora and fauna across Australia as well as Campos’ signature green colour. The limited-edition Festive Superior blend features beans sourced from Ethiopia, Kenya, and Colombia and has notes of sweet caramel, butterscotch, and milk chocolate. Available at flagship stores in Sydney and Melbourne. Beans priced from $15.95. camposcoffee.com

Aaron Ward joins Bathers’ Pavilion Sydney restaurant Bathers’ Pavilion has snagged top culinary talent Aaron Ward as its new executive chef. Ward joins after time at Shell House and has designed a menu based on produce sourced from local producers, farmers, and fishermen. The chef says he is keen to break down the barrier between the kitchen and guests, with select dishes to be finished off tableside by the team. batherspavilion.com.au December 2023 | 9

PRODUCE // Tamarind

Tamarind trees feature in a Buddhist parable as Natural

a symbol of faithfulness

tenderiser due to its

and forbearance Originated in Asia

tartaric acid content

Commonly used as a base

and tropical Africa

ingredient in Indian and Southeast Asian curries

Trees can grow up to 25m in height

Pods contain 12 seeds Has a sweet—sour,

and a thick pulp

Combined with lime, honey,

Can be used in unripened

milk, and spices in traditional

tangy flavour profile

or ripened form

South Asian medicines

Tamarind

The secret ingredient in Worcestershire sauce adds a sweet and tangy kick to dishes. WORDS Amy Northcott

Origins

tropical and subtropical regions and should

Flavour and culinary uses

Tamarind is part of the pea and legume family

be exposed to dry weather when young

Tamarind pulp has a sweet—sour flavour and

Fabaceae and is known by the scientific

to build tolerance against frosts and cool

can be used ripe or unripe. Unripe, the pulp is

name Tamarindus indica. The tamarind tree

temperatures.

very tart and needs to be cooked or pickled

is native to tropical Africa and Asia, but is

Tamarind trees can be grown via grafting

before being consumed. It’s often used in

cultivated across India, Central America,

or seeds which need to be soaked for a few

chutneys, stews, curries, soups, or sweets

Mexico, and the Caribbean.

days before being planted in free-draining soil.

where it gives an acidic kick.

It is said tamarind trees were introduced to Australia via Makassar traders in the

Germination takes one to two weeks in a warm, sunny environment with regular watering.

As tamarind ripens, its sourness reduces and is akin to a combination of date, lemon,

early 18th century and there are now several

Tamarind trees grow up to 25 metres in

and apricot. Ripened tamarind is sold as a

native species grown across sub-tropical

height and have wide-spanning branches

paste, concentrate, extract, and powder. It is

regions on Australia’s east coast including the

that fall towards the ground in a curved

also available in whole pod form.

large-leaved tamarind (Diploglottis australis)

shape. Trees have dense, evergreen, feather-

and small-leaved tamarind (Diploglottis

like leaves that are about 5cm or less in

pad Thai where it is combined with fish sauce,

campbellii), however they are not related to

length and red and yellow flowers that form in

sugar, and vinegar. It’s also a core ingredient

the African and Asian species.

small clusters.

of Worcestershire sauce and is a natural meat

Growth and harvest

and grow up to 15cm in length and 2.5cm in

core ingredient in curries and other spicy dishes,

Trees are very resilient and can withstand

width. Each pod contains up to 12 tamarind

and is famously used in the Mexican dessert

drought and wind-borne salt found in areas

seeds that are coated in a soft, brown pulp

mangonada, which features straw-shaped

located near coastlines. The trees thrive in

which darkens as it ripens.

tamarind garnishes called tarugos. ■

Brown tamarind pods are pea-like in shape

10 | Hospitality

One of its most common applications is in

tenderiser thanks to tartaric acid. Tamarind is a

: tp ht ly/ it. //b

To order La Parisienne contact your local distributor.

VISIT US:

Making it happen

9lR

Peerless Foodservice on 1800 986 499 or visit: www.peerlessfoodservic e.com.au peerlessfoodservice.com.au / peerlessfoodservice

For further information or technical support contact

BEST PRACTICE // 2024 ready

Make next year A GOOD ONE Tips to use the holiday season as a runway for a strong new year. WORDS Ken Burgin IT’S EASY TO slump on December 26. So

Collect customer data

and new year to summer relaxation and

much has happened and sales were great,

Simple competitions are a great way to do

remember to run a combination of photos

so can we just put our feet up for a few

this, especially ‘win on the day’ prizes or

from customers and staff along with

weeks? It sounds like the ’80s when many

raffles where people can see it’s for real. Is

pictures of food. Let’s make the new year

places closed in January — you wish! The

it worth giving a staff bonus on the numbers

a time for more ‘real’ social media via the

new mindset has to be around 12 months

they collect? There are good QR code

chefs, baristas, and bar people who love

of continual planning, not the on-and-off

raffle systems so people can enter from

their product and have a camera in their

pattern that creates inconsistency.

their phones

pocket — your talent pool is waiting.

events aren’t forgotten until the last minute,

Go hard on gift card promotion

Gather feedback for planning

and you coordinate with seasonal activities

They’re great for presents, which can lead

After the holiday season, use socials or

such as school holidays and tourism. Use a

to repeat business when recipients use

email to ask people who dined with you

shareable online planner such as Google

them in the new year. A digital platform

during November and December about

Calendar, and add all the dates you know

for these is essential; this way, you gather

what worked well and what they’d like

(Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day). You’ll soon

more customer information such as family

more of. Getting survey responses online

see there are a lot of gaps. Sites such as

structure and who the big spenders are.

without a small incentive is hard but

daysoftheyear.com have plenty of ideas for

Many people love gift cards because

spending $200 on this could give you

events or menu promotions.

they’re often stuck for gift ideas.

highly useful results.

single month, and work on a three-month

Run promotions for the new year

Roll out customer systems

lead time for each occasion. Three months

The well-known red envelope always

Updated QR code ordering, a new waitlist

prior, decide on the target audience,

resonates where Christmas customers

app to handle queues, online bookings

promotional concept, and budget. Two

are given a sealed envelope with a bonus

with better confirmation and reminders,

months prior, finalise the logistics, menus,

voucher inside that they can redeem after a

and even a new kitchen display system

staffing, design, and announce on socials.

certain date next year. If it’s opened before

to help the cooks manage bottlenecks.

One month before, roll out social media

redemption, it’s invalid. Visitors are sure to

January customers are a little more

campaigns, newsletters, advertising, and

spend much more for every $10 voucher you

forgiving and relaxed with new systems,

press releases. And don’t forget to create a

give out.

and there’s usually a genuine interest in

Start with a 12-month calendar — this way,

Plan something distinctive for every

unique hashtag to encourage sharing.

the ‘back of house’ operations — share

Schedule social media posts

some details and screenshots on your

come back to the Christmas rush to gather

Keep your social profiles active throughout

socials. ■

more opportunities for next year.

the holidays. Switch from Christmas

That’s the big-picture plan, now let’s

12 | Hospitality

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We had classic. Now we have cool.

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Introducing your new Tyro Pro.

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NEWS // Drinks

Bar cart

Thirst quenchers, slow sippers, and all things beverage related. EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros

Flying high Single O has ventured into the RTD game with an iced latte —

Flower power The Cabinet of Curiosities collection from Hendrick’s Gin has a new addition — Flora Adora. The house’s signature combination of cucumber and rose has been distilled with a fresh floral bouquet by Master Distiller Lesley Gracie on the

and there are just 8,000 cans up for grabs. Pilot is made with one shot of coffee combined with oat milk, and has notes of ripe berries and chocolate. Iced latte sales have doubled at Single O locations in Sydney and in Tokyo, with the brand creating Pilot in response to customer demand. Each can is printed with a QR code inviting drinkers to fill out a survey and give feedback on the product. Available in packs of four or 16. singleo.com.au

Ayrshire coast in Scotland. The seasonal release is best served with tonic and a slice of cucumber or in a Wildgarden Cup, a cocktail of gin, mint, raspberries, cucumber, and a lemon soda topper. $86 from liquor retailers. hendricksgin.com

Seasoned drinking Australian producer Olsson’s is elevating the cocktail game with a new range. There are two cocktail salt flake blends available: citrus and chilli. The Native Citrus salt is made with pink plum powder and lemon myrtle, while Smokin’ Chilli combines red gum salt flakes with chilli. It marks the family-owned company’s first foray into beverages, with the two products adding a new dimension to drinks. The salts are priced at $15 and are available from select retailers and online. olssons.com.au

One of a kind

Time to celebrate

It’s just not Christmas without a panettone (or

Japanese whisky leaders The House of Suntory

two), and now the festivities are even more

is celebrating 100 years of distilling with Hibiki

widespread thanks to Zonzo. The producer

21-Year-Old and Hibiki Japanese Harmony. The

has created a gin based on the Italian sweet

Harmony bottle is one for the collectors and

bread, with the spirit featuring aromas of

features a design that depicts the changing

orange, vanilla, and hazelnut and notes of

seasons of Japan. The dram has aromas of honey,

juniper, raisins, and spices. It’s a rich, luxurious,

candied orange peel, and white chocolate with

sweeter-style gin best served over ice for

a hint of Mizunara. The whisky sits at 43 per cent

maximum enjoyment. $68. zonzo.com.au

ABV and is priced at $460. beamsuntory.com

14 | Hospitality

For all your culinary creations

Serving suggestion

Dairy Farmers Cooking Cream

Dairy Farmers Thickened Cream

•

Ideal viscosity for sautéing, reducing and pan-frying

•

Ideal for whipping and desserts

•

Heats quickly to high temperatures, without burning or splitting

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Suitable for halal, kosher, and vegetarian customers – gelatine free

•

Available in 2L bottle

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Available in 2L and 5L bottles

For more information and to view the rest of our foodservice Culinary range, please visit www.begafoodservice.com.au

DRINKS // Rakija 16 | Hospitality

DRINKS // Rakija

Rakija Shake up your cocktail offering with the Balkan fruit spirit. WORDS Amy Northcott ITALY HAS GRAPPA, Poland has vodka, but

their baba (grandmother). The Classic and Gold

a high-ABV, double-distilled fruit spirit crafted

Shiraz grapes which are double distilled in a

what about the Balkans? The answer is rakija, from grapes, plums, apricots, or apples. Like

most traditional liquors, many families make

their own versions, which has seen generational recipes preserved over the years.

Here in Australia, the commercial rakija scene

is a small one indeed, with only a handful of

producers making the spirit across the country. Sydney’s DNA Distillery, run by cousin duo

Monique Sutevski and James Projcevski, is one of them. The pair speak to Hospitality about

rakija and challenging bartenders to use the spirit to bring a new edge to drinks.

First-generation Macedonian–Australian cousins Monique Sutevski and James Projcevski have

long been familiar with rakija. It’s been the goto drink for their family, with five generations making the spirit so far. “To us, it’s the drink

of moments,” says Projcevski. “You drink it at

christenings, weddings, and funerals. It’s a staple of family life.”

In 2020, after graduating with a law degree,

Sutevski decided she wanted to try her hand at

rakijas are both crafted from organic Australian custom-made still imported from Poland. The

first distillation turns the fruit into a spirit, with

usually made

makes

highest potential. While that’s the end of the

from grapes,

Classic,

process for the Classic, the Gold undergoes an

plums, or

Gold,

infusion process using a secret family recipe

apricots

and Pear

Australian

The liquor can

Shiraz

easily replace

grapes are

vodka, gin,

the base of

and other

blend. The Pear rakija follows the same process

as the Classic but is made with Australian-grown organic pears instead.

When it comes to flavour profile, Sutevski and

Projcevski say they try to draw comparisons to

other spirits so unfamiliar consumers can get a

better idea of what rakija is. The Classic sits on the lighter and fresher end of the flavour scale and is comparable to tequila or gin minus the

juniper. “The Classic has a subtle floral character

Projcevski’s family recipes. The Classic is an

ode to the duo’s dedo (grandfather) and his own formula, while the Pear is in honour of

cocktails

“Our Gold rakija is much more like whisky,

bourbon, or rum and has a more complex taste. It’s a more structured and concentrated palate and has a vanilla, nutty flavour to it.”

meant the pair had to educate the industry

DNA now produces three rakija products —

spirits in

recipe

Whereas the Gold is more comparable to whisky.

Sydney’s first rakija brand in December 2021,

Classic, Gold, and Pear — using Sutevski and

the distillery’s

with a classical, fruity aroma,” says Sutevski.

When DNA launched, the distillery was one of

calling it DNA Distillery.

DNA Distillery

the second ensuring it has been distilled to its

making rakija according to the family’s recipe.

Projcevski was on board and the pair launched

Rakija is

just two rakija producers in Australia, which

and the wider drinking public on the spirit and how to use it. “It’s a lot of fun marketing rakija because you get to take people on a journey

and the Australian consumer is someone who is happy to try new things,” says Projcevski.

“We also get to see bartenders have fun with it. December 2023 | 17

DRINKS // Rakija We love seeing them play around with the spirit and making things that we never thought were possible.”

For Sutevski and Projcevski, rakija is always drunk neat —

but it’s not the only application they suggest. “We have been introduced to rakija by our family and they normally sip it

straight,” explains Projcevski. “But we also want to see how

everyone else drinks it and open our eyes to new ways. It’s a journey for us seeing how it evolves.”

The duo is keen for bartenders to try their hand at making

cocktails with rakija. But where to start? “If it’s a clear spirit that

goes into a cocktail, substitute the spirit for our classic rakija, or if it’s a gold spirit, go for our Gold,” says Projcevski.

One of the easiest combinations is combing rakija with soda

and lime in replacement of gin or vodka. “It’s really interesting

when you substitute it [rakija] for other spirits because the floral fragrance of the rakija and the Shiraz come through as a whole,” says Sutevski. Cocktail-wise, the options are endless — think a

Macedonian mule or a sour with the Gold rakija or an espresso

martini with the Classic. “We love to see the experiments people

make with it,” says Projcevski. “We want to work with bartenders and venues to help them come up with some amazing cocktails and show something different to their patrons.”

Sutevski and Projcevski believe rakija could be a gamechanger

in the industry. “In the same way gin and tequila had a

renaissance, we feel like rakija could be that next spirit,” says

Projcevski. “We really feel like once the education is there, we will have something everyone loves to drink.” ■ 18 | Hospitality

“In the same way gin and tequila had a renaissance, we feel like rakija could be that next spirit.” – James Projcevski

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FEATURE // Murray cod roe

The roe One of the rarest caviars in the world comes from our own backyard. WORDS Annabelle Cloros

20 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Murray cod roe

THE FIN-TO-TAIL MOVEMENT has seen many innovations — ice cream made

from fish eyes, hand rolls packed with tuna scrapings, and collars deep-fried

and covered in seasoning. Believe it or

not, caviar is one of the original seafood byproducts, selling for around $1 per pound in the 19th century before it became a sought-after commodity.

Eggs from sturgeon, salmon, trout,

and scampi are used across the globe by chefs, and now there’s a new addition

to the caviar family from our very own Murray cod.

Aquna Sustainable Murray Cod’s Ross

Anderson and Simon Johnson’s Lisa

Downs reveal how the product came to

life, the retrieval and curing process, and

how Murray cod caviar is one of the most unique products in the world today.

Trade shows are incubators for ideas, and

there’s no better hub to talk fish than at the Seafood Expo in Boston. It’s where caviar ambassador Lisa Downs met with reps

from Aquna Sustainable Murray Cod and a question was posed. “They said, ‘I wonder what it would be like to try the caviar?’”

says Aquna Chairman Ross Anderson. “It

was something I had thought about a few

the development of Murray cod caviar

selling fish we didn’t focus on it.” Aquna

industry’s go-to caviar figures and has an

years beforehand, but we were so busy

moved close to 500,000 tonnes of cod last year, to give you an idea of the demand. “Lisa saw Josh Niland had made some

[caviar] and it gave her the idea to have a

crack, so they developed it from there and she put the time and effort into it.”

Aquna has eight sites in the Riverina

region of New South Wales (plus contract

farms) where fish are hatched, reared, and processed. The cod are grown in native

river water from the Murray-Darling basin

a close-to sure bet. Downs is one of the

unrivalled knowledge when it comes to the product, having worked on farms across the globe alongside top-tier producers.

She identified an opportunity to develop a unique caviar from a part of the fish that

was once discarded. “They used to throw

the egg sacs away, and now we have made

a beautiful product from a byproduct,” she says. “We have added more value to the

female fish and it’s uniquely Australian.” The egg retrieval process takes place

and are both a localised and exclusive

during spawning season, which occurs from

commercial sale in Australia. “When we

the farming process. “We have three stages

product as there is no wild catch of cod for started a decade ago with 20–30 tonnes of

fish, people never thought we would sell it all,” says Anderson. “We have millions of fish in the water now, but the demand is always five to six times the supply.”

There’s no doubt popularity and consumer

awareness go a long way when it comes to launching spin-off products, which made

“They used to throw the egg sacs away, and now we have made a beautiful product from a byproduct.” – Lisa Downs

September until October each year. But first, of production where we start with larvae and hatching and then they go to juvenile and

then to grow out,” says Anderson. “Once the fish are in the grow-out area, it’s a matter of identifying larger female fish with the

capacity to spawn a year or so later. The fish

are sorted and then we put the larger females away for an extra year and harvest the roe when spawning season comes around.”

December 2023 | 21

FEATURE // Murray cod roe Downs flew to Griffith to demonstrate how

to remove the eggs from the sacs at Aquna’s

processing plant and now once the eggs have

been extracted on-site, they are snap-frozen and sent to Simon Johnson in Sydney’s Alexandria, where Downs and the team get to work. “We defrost the eggs and add 6 per cent Murray

River salt which is a nice synergistic thing,”

she says. “Once we mix in the salt, there is no

other interference. We don’t need to mature it in a mother tin like sturgeon caviar — we just

need the salt to penetrate the membrane a little bit. We pack them into 50g tins from the curing

mix, take all the air out, and let the salt interact with the membrane for about a week and then it’s ready.”

While the maturing process is comparable to

sturgeon caviar, the time required is vastly different

with a mound of crème fraîche, it’s best used as

are much lower than sturgeon eggs, which means

would sturgeon caviar,” says Downs. “The intent

— as is the mouthfeel. The fat levels in cod eggs

the salt only needs to interact with the membrane rather than penetrate it. The eggs also undergo

a colour transformation during curing, changing

a garnish. “You don’t eat a spoon of it like you for this product is to add texture and a briny,

Tins have

Should

Quay’s Peter Gilmore has been using it in

a 10-week

be stored between

smoked eel cream and sea cucumber crackling.

crunchy pop.”

from white to transparent Champagne once they

a dish of raw Abrolhos Island scallops with

shelf life before

-4–5 degrees

one week is a big plus for customers, as the roe is

“I like the fresh saltiness of it, and the crunch,”

opening

Celsius

interact with the salt. A short curing time of just

packed and distributed on a weekly basis by Simon Johnson. “We have fresh roe all the time which is the ideal scenario,” says Downs. “Quay has been buying 30 tins a week and the uptake has been

says Anderson. “Some chefs pair it with

carpaccio or run it through pasta which comes out beautifully.”

Murray cod caviar has already been attracting

really amazing.”

interest, with enquiries coming in locally and

The world caviar has certain connotations — the

also more accessible, and retails for $72.95.

words salty, rich, expensive, and buttery likely spring to mind. But cod caviar has a unique

flavour profile of freshwater notes and is best consumed in a different manner to sturgeon

caviar. While you can certainly enjoy it on a blini 22 | Hospitality

from restaurants overseas, too. The product is “I think it’s fairly priced with to enter the

marketplace,” says Anderson. “It is the rarest

caviar in the world we know of, and it comes from a unique Australian provenance with a unique Australian story.” ■

Roe size

Cured with

varies from

Murray River

2–2.5mm

salt

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17/10/2022 16:56:53

FEATURE // Spritzes

Summer

of spritz The next generation of spritzes have arrived. WORDS Amy Northcott PHOTOGRAPHY Nikki To for Odd Culture; Earl Carter and Griffin Simm for Her Bar

24 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Spritzes

“The spritz is a proven winning formula.” – Jordan Blackman

WHEN YOU THINK of a spritz, Aperol is likely one of the first variations to come to mind. The Italian cocktail has long

tepache to olive shio koji and coffee shoyu using spent grounds.”

The tepache Blackman mentions is

additions of tequila alongside fresh lime and agave for balance,” says Blackman.

The beverage manager says the spritz

been a hit with Australian drinkers for its

the core ingredient in Odd Culture’s

is an approachable entry point for

and fruity Prosecco — especially during the

Mexico, tepache is essentially a fermented

great way to introduce people to the

combination of refreshing citrus liqueur

summer months. There’s no doubt Aperol kickstarted the spritz wave, but there are plenty of other versions of the format.

To find out which spritzes are ready

to have their time in the sun, Hospitality speaks with Odd Culture’s Jordan

Blackman, Her Bar’s Tom Younger, and Fú Cocktail and Wine Bar’s Geoffrey Hunt.

Tepache spritz Sydney’s Odd Culture is known for its obsession with all things fermented,

so naturally, the venue’s drinks are a showcase of fermentation from wild ales and natural wines to cocktails.

“Fermentation is the perfect way to add

house spritz cocktail. “Originating from

pineapple soda or ‘pineapple beer’ that’s

seasoned, spiced, and brewed over a few days,” he says. “Quite low in alcohol, it’s ultimately refreshing and particularly appealing in warmer weather.”

To make tepache, pineapple (with its

skin on) is fermented with a combination

of sugar, salt, cinnamon quills, cloves, and water. “The key to a healthy ferment is

attracting good bacteria and staving off the

before,” he says. The Tepache also works well as an alternate option when the

tequila is omitted, and is comparable to

a pineapple soda. “It’s refreshing and fun while still displaying levels of depth and complexity achieved through what is a very simple ferment.”

The Tepache spritz has been a popular

says Blackman. “It is also crucial the

has added it to the menu, too. “[It’s been]

properly sanitised as well as your hands,” percentage of salt to total weight of the batched ferment is 2 per cent.”

Once the tepache is ready, the bar team

“Our menu is inspired by it and there

wine glass filled with ice. “Our drink utilises

ingredients, everything from homemade

package as most people have had a spritz

choice on Odd Culture Newtown’s cocktail

combines tequila (Olmeca Altos Plata, in

is a focus on in-house ferments and

concept of fermentation in a familiar

bad by ensuring the ferment container is

layers of complexity and depth to drinks,”

says Beverage Manager Jordan Blackman.

fermented beverages for guests. “It’s a

this case), agave syrup, and lime juice in a a homemade tepache as the base for the

spritz rather than Prosecco or soda with the

list, so much so, the Melbourne location

extremely popular. Being both a spritz and

an agave-based cocktail, it has serious appeal with our guests,” says Blackman. “The drink has been on our list since day one and

doesn’t appear to be going anywhere. It’s the big ticket coming into summer.”

When it comes to spritzes in general,

Blackman believes they work well on a

December 2023 | 25

FEATURE // Spritzes cocktail list as a versatile yet approachable option for guests. “The spritz is

a proven winning formula. It’s easily one of the most universally recognised cocktails, is particularly malleable, and can be as simple or complex as one might like,” he says. “It can function as an aperitif before dinner or the drink of choice over an entire afternoon.”

Hugo spritz Italian bartender Roland Gruber has been attributed as the creator of the Hugo spritz. Funnily enough, it was born from a desire to create a variation on a spritz instead of the go-to Aperol or Veneziano. The

Hugo was first made in the early 2000s, and has finally resonated with

Australian drinkers for the same reason it was created. “The Hugo spritz

definitely seems to be having a (well-deserved) moment,” says Owner and Operator of Adelaide’s Fú Cocktail and Wine Bar Geoffrey Hunt. “Going

into what looks like a long, hot, dry summer, there’s nothing better than a refreshing spritz.”

At Fú, Hunt and the team stick to the classic recipe for the Hugo minus

the mint element. “Typically, you’d add the mint directly to the glass,

but it can be a bit messy, so we muddle it separately first,” he says. Hunt

“Going into what looks like a long, hot, dry summer, there’s nothing better than a refreshing spritz.” – Geoffrey Hunt

combines elderflower liqueur (his brand of choice is Massenez but admits

St-Germain is the original) and the mint in a cocktail shaker and muddles it lightly to release the aromatics. It’s then strained into a wine glass with ice and topped with Prosecco and soda. The bar team finish the drink with a garnish of edible flowers. “The way the floral prettiness of the

elderflower liqueur plays with the summery herbal aromatics of the mint is just undeniably appealing,” says Hunt.

Since putting it on the menu, the drink has been a popular order for

guests not only for its taste but the price point. “It’s easy and quick and

relatively inexpensive — so many cocktails are prohibitively priced for a

lot of consumers these days,” says Hunt. “To be able to get a phenomenal drink and not feel guilty about ordering more than one makes for a tempting proposition.”

Spritzes play an important role on a cocktail menu to provide a

refreshing, approachable, cheaper, and most importantly lower-alcohol option for guests. “For too long, consumers who chose not to drink a

lot have been left with sub-par options,” says Hunt. “Having delicious

no- and low-alcohol options (spritzes almost always fall into the low side of the spectrum) allows bartenders to cater to those who choose to be circumspect in their drinking.”

26 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Spritzes

Sbagliato spritz

Younger has crafted a dedicated spritz menu

Her Bar Cocktail Curator Tom Younger has

at Her Bar, with the Sbagliato described as

Melbourne venue’s offering, which he describes

options on the list. “With a natural fruitiness

recently added a Sbagliato spritz to the

as “the spritz of the moment”. The cocktail is

inspired by the Negroni Sbagliato which translates to ‘broken’ Negroni where the gin is replaced with Prosecco. The Sbagliato spritz consists of Imperial Distilling’s Ruby Bitter (akin to Amaro), Oscar

697 sweet vermouth, and Prosecco. “All in all, it’s

the perfect combination of sweet, bitter, and fizz,” explains Younger. “The aperitif has punch from

the Ruby Bitter with its grapefruit and rhubarb,

more of an aperitivo compared to the other from the aperitif and vermouth, plus the

brightness from the acidity of the Prosecco,

it’s more bitter and savoury than some of the others on the list,” says the bartender. “It’s

been really well received. Our bartenders tend to have some fun introducing it to guests

“Spritzes are a perfect drink that can easily be

To make the spritz, Ruby Bitter, Oscar 697,

combined in a wine glass with ice and finished

with a slice of fresh orange. “I like the rhubarb tones that come through both the aperitif and

an important part of any cocktail program.

enjoyed at any time of day or night — more often in summer, but at any time of year

really,” he says. “They’re accessible, easy to

incorporate a range of flavours into, and suit

spritz section

pineapple

of the menu

The Hugo

The

spritz was

Sbagliato

invented as

spritz is

an alternative

based off

to an Aperol

the Negroni

spritz

Sbagliato

It’s safe to say the love affair between the

drinking public and the spritz is enduring, but

so they’re similar but not too similar, so they pair

are plenty of ways to keep your options fresh

really well together.”

made from

every palate. Bring on spritz season!”

the vermouth,” says Younger. “Each have their

own unique expression of the same ingredient,

dedicated

Similarly to Blackman, Younger agrees

a sweet vermouth that also contains rhubarb but

and Prosecco (Younger suggests a drier style) are

has a

beverage

or third.”

the versatile format of spritzes make them

in a much sweeter, fruity style.”

Her Bar

and more often than not they order a second

and a sharp, bitter undertone from the gentian

and ginseng. It is balanced with the Oscar 697 —

Tepache is a fermented

as these drinks specialists have shared, there and unique. ■

December 2023 | 27

FEATURE // Summer openings

Heating up The year might be winding down — but restaurants aren’t.

Nico The North Shore is having a glow up of sorts, with operators heading over the bridge to cater to the suburbs. Nico is located in Cammeray and is run by Chef Nico Ronconi and business partner Ewa Witkowska.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros

Ronconi is no stranger to the fine-dining game, having worked at The Fat Duck in London and Michelin-starred eateries in Italy before

THE HOLIDAY SEASON is the busiest time of the year for

coming to Australia. With 20 years’ experience cooking on his CV, the

back and dialling down their work hours, some restaurants

it was the right time to show Sydney my philosophy of hospitality and

and now. Here, Hospitality rounds up the latest openings

same time feel like they are on a holiday,” he says.

the industry. And while most are looking forward to kicking

chef was more than ready to spearhead his own concept. “I thought

have chosen to do the opposite by making their debut here

open a place where we can make people feel at home but at the

in Sydney.

The concept of Nico is anchored by Italian cuisine with influences drawn from the Amalfi Coast, Sardinia, Puglia, Venice, and Lake Garda. Cicchetti is a must to start along with the kingfish crudo with

Easy Tiger

Aperol and black olives. Cacio e pepe with mussels is another dish

House Made Hospitality has opened two venues

fast resonating with diners. As for dessert? Ronconi has put his own

back-to-back — Martinez in the CBD and Easy Tiger

spin on a classic tiramisu which is made with lemons, a combination

in Bondi, a South-East Asian concept that marks

he first experimented with back home in Italy. “I had people drive

the group’s first foray into casual dining. Head Chef

miles just to have this one dish,” he says. “I’ve spent years making

Andrianto Wirya is running the kitchen after time at

adjustments to find the perfect combination of flavours.”

Merivale’s Queen Chow and Mr Wong and has put

Photography by Kera Wong

together a menu that’s wide-ranging in influence from his own Indonesian heritage to dishes from Vietnam, Singapore, Thailand, and the Philippines. “While you might recognise many of these dishes, we’re putting fun spins on them you might not see elsewhere,” says Wirya. “Our aim was to create a menu that’s affordable and exciting enough to make you want to come back for more.” Exciting is a good word for the menu — there is plenty to choose from. Larb has been reworked with twice-fried corn kernels, beef rendang is served in a pie format, and babi guling is covered in sambal matah and sandwiched by a bao. There’s also a Hainan chicken clay pot and the essential beef dish Crying Tiger which sees the protein cooked over fire. The drinks list is extensive, with beers sourced locally and from Asia and cocktails based on ingredients including tamarind, kaya, and coconut cream. Photography by Leigh Griffiths

28 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Summer openings

Busby’s Four hospitality experts have come together to launch Busby’s in Paddington’s Oxford House. Run by Public, the group’s Creative Culinary Director Clayton Wells is behind the food offering which is made up of all the plates you want to eat while drinking — think Sydney Rock oysters with blackberry vinegar; chicken liver parfait; and tuna crudo with grilled watermelon. Consultant Ed Loveday is in on the project, too, with go-to drinks figure Mike Bennie sourcing lo-fi wines from near and afar. For cocktails, Maybe Sammy’s Paolo Maffietti has chosen to focus on grapebased liquors. “Created aperitivo style and crafted in three to four steps, the cocktail list at Busby’s reflects our minimalist and no-nonsense approach,” says the bar whiz. “As a natural wine bar, we focus on flavour and origin of ingredients, and our cocktails embody Busby’s cool, laidback feel.” The venue will host five-hour artist residencies each Thursday, DJs on Fridays, and spin vinyls from start to finish on Saturdays. Photography by Parker Blain

Chez Blue 2023 has been the year of the French bistro, so here’s one more to add to the roster. Solotel has recruited former Bistro Moncur chef Mark Williamson to run the kitchen of Chez Blue on Rozelle’s Darling Street. The restaurant space has been split into a cocktail bar and a dining room with leather banquette seating, artwork sourced from France, mosaic tiling, and textured walls. “We want Chez Blue to be a place where people feel like they can pop in for all occasions from casual midweek dinners through to special family and friend meals,” says Solotel CEO Elliot Solomon. Williamson has put together a menu very much rooted in a classic approach, with most dishes designed for one. Expect tuna tartare with egg, green Tabasco, and crispy potato galette and steak frites with Bearnaise, with a few shared options also on offer. “There’s something lovely about sharing a dish with the table so we’ve also included a whole deboned pan-fried snapper served with clams steamed in lemon vinaigrette with samphire and herbs,” says the chef. “There’s also a one-kilogram New South Wales grass-fed ribeye that’s grilled to hero the incredible produce.” Master of Wine and Head of Beverage Annette Lacey has filled the wine list with mostly French drops, while cocktails are of the modern–classic variety. Photography by Steven Woodburn

December 2023 | 29

FEATURE // Summer openings

Penelope’s Cuong Nguyen of Hello Auntie and Hey Chu has announced his latest restaurant Penelope’s. Located in Quay Tower, Penelope’s is serving food inspired by Sydney, rather than a particular cuisine. “Our aim is to challenge stereotypes and defy preconceived notions of what ‘Australian cuisine’ should be — we thrive on diversity and various culinary influences from around the world,” says Nguyen. Nguyen is running the kitchen as executive chef, with Head Chef Bremmy Setiyoko given free reign with the menu. The culinary talent has put together dishes including chicken marinated with coriander seeds and turmeric that’s slowroasted and served with toum and a turmeric and lemongrass sambal. “Cuong has given me a lot of freedom to explore and create at Penelope’s, so I can cook [dishes] I’m really passionate about,” he says. Cocktails showcase Indigenous Australian ingredients, with the Jiminy Cricket combining whisky with peppermint gum, chocolate, corn, and koji and an Old Fashioned teaming aged rum with macadamia, wattleseed, and Vegemite caramel. Photography by Chad Konik

King Clarence The chef who spearheaded Sunda and Aru in Melbourne has officially moved to Sydney to front The Bentley Group’s latest restaurant. Khanh Nguyen announced he had exited The Windsor Group back in July, and said he was “eager to script the unwritten pages that lie ahead”. Now, his next move has been confirmed, with Nguyen appointed executive chef of King Clarence, which is slated to open its doors in the CBD on 1 December. It’s a full-circle moment for the chef, who worked for the group seven years ago. “Throughout my career I’ve always looked up to Brent [Savage] and Nick [Hildebrandt] as role models,” he says. “We built a great relationship when I was working with them and have stayed in touch. They’ve both been amazing mentors for me and I’m so excited to work alongside them once again at King Clarence.” The restaurant serves cuisine described as ‘contemporary Asian’, with Nguyen working alongside Savage to put the menu together. The kitchen is equipped with a custom BBQ and grill, and the venue also has its own live seafood tank. On the beverage front, Polly Mackeral has moved from Cirrus to take on the head sommelier role after a big year, which saw the team secure the Judy Hirst Award for Australia’s Wine List of the Year. ■ 30 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Fusion

Fusion Three chefs on redefining the ‘F word’.

THERE’S NO DOUBT fusion cuisine has come a

Italian household in the ’60s growing prickly

all trends, fusion peaked and fell in popularity,

shopping at an Asian market — that kind of

WORDS Amy Northcott PHOTOGRAPHY Declan Blackall for Nikkei Bar

with arguably more down time as the dish

long way from nacho pizzas and sushi tacos. Like

combinations became more extravagant and

mixing,” says Kelly.

The term suburban came from a state of

harder to understand.

confusion within the team and their experiences

from both the industry and the dining public,

and to have family from other cultures is to

Fusion cuisine generates mixed reactions

but restaurants combining multiple culinary

influences are beginning to reappear once again. Hospitality speaks with Baba’s Place, Nikkei Bar,

and Oborozuki about redefining the ‘F word’ and ushering in a new chapter for the dining style;

one that’s fresh, and most importantly, respectful of the origins it draws from.

Nestled in an industrial garage in Sydney’s

Marrickville, Baba’s Place is a food-led celebration of the meals enjoyed in suburban communities. The inspiration is personal for Co-Owners

Alexander Kelly, Jean-Paul El Tom, and James Bellos with the menu taking cues from their Lebanese, Macedonian, and Greek roots.

While the culinary offering came easy for

the trio, defining Baba’s was another story.

of immigrant communities. “To live in Sydney be somewhat confused,” says Kelly. “We try to

play with that and be a bit more generative and creative in the question of, ‘Who are we?’” Kelly admits that while they’ve gone with the label of

suburban for now, it is an ever-changing concept for the team. “I think we call it suburban more

as a metaphor for the fact that suburbs change; gentrification, money, migration, all that stuff,” he says. “It’s playfully confusing, too because suburban, like what suburbs?” he laughs. “It frustrates everyone just as much as we want

to figure it out.” On the flip side, the sense of ambiguity that comes with the tag grants the Baba’s Place team creative freedom with the

menu as the kitchen isn’t limited or expected to follow certain rules of cuisines.

Intertwining different cultural backgrounds,

As much as the suburban theme, the Baba’s

suburban. “The untold story is what goes on and

taramasalata toast: “It spoke to this domestic

dishes, and experiences led them to calling it

what went on in those backyards — imagine an 32 | Hospitality

pears, but then going down to Hurstville and

Place menu is also led by experience. Take the setting of having leftover dip your grandparents

but maybe it’s coming back? I don’t know.” – Alexander Kelly made and putting it on some bread — it’s

going on when [it comes to] fusion,” he says.

not a negative association, but it’s seen

matter what background you’re from.”

modern Australian. Or maybe, to be cynical,

explains the chef. “It does seem people see

a universal thing we all do. It doesn’t

The dish consists of taramasalata spread on shokupan with a garnish of praline,

bottarga, and house-made pickles. “We’re

“I guess that’s why it’s been subbed out for what we call suburban. Maybe it’s just

another way of calling something fusion?” But the co-owner believes there is a

constantly trying to be like, ‘Here’s the

respectful way to meld cuisines together

like right now’.”

people. “I think there is a genuine attempt

memory so let’s make it into what it looks

When it comes to fusion dining, Kelly

believes that while the term is not one

that’s widely used now, it is one that has the potential to evolve. “It [fusion] has

dropped out of fashion and I think there

has been a move in the last few years for

more poorly than established cuisines,”

fusion as a bit of a cheap trick [because] there’s no tradition or history behind it, which can be a negative factor.”

The chef understands why diners may

without diminishing cultures and their

assume Nikkei Bar is a fusion venue,

to pay respect or feel the beauty of certain

are important for guests to learn about

cultures through their food,” he says. “But I think it can go the wrong way when you fuse two stable cultures into one thing.

[There is also] the idea of a stable cuisine or a culture you can pick from.”

but he believes the origins of the cuisine when they dine at the venue. “It’s

understandable for people to be seeing

this as fusion cuisine, which is what it is in itself,” he says. “But it’s also important for people to see there is a history behind it.”

people to replace it with terms like modern

Sydney’s Nikkei Bar opened in 2019 and

The Nikkei Bar menu incorporates

might be a bad word and not a popular

Nikkei cuisine. Nikkei has been around

Japanese and Peruvian cuisines. “We

Australian or Australian,” he says. “Fusion word right now, but maybe it’s coming back? I don’t know.”

Kelly does believe the label does raise

questions around what makes a cuisine

and its people. “When we’re talking about cuisine, we’re inevitably talking about the

people of that country and their histories,” he says. “You can’t just go, ‘Let’s mix it all together’. Because what you’re doing is

erasing history and cultural differences.” The erasure of culture in fusion cuisine

is one of the reasons why Kelly believes it has a negative reputation in the industry.

“I do think people in the hospitality scene are trained to think there is some sort of

appropriation and watering-down process

serves Japanese–Peruvian food known as for more than 100 years and came about

after large groups of Japanese immigrants

arrived in Peru. Joe Valero is the head chef at Nikkei Bar and says the venue has often been tagged as a fusion eatery. “Initially, our venue was seen as fusion,” he says.

“But once we tell people it’s come to be

techniques and ingredients from both don’t try to just recreate and go, ‘Let’s do this traditional dish from Japan or this

traditional dish from Peru’,” says the chef. Valero lists the ceviche with ume leche de tigre and choclo corn as core examples

of the style of cooking. “The traditional

organically and it’s not just us saying,

‘Let’s mix Japanese and Peruvian food’,

it makes them more excited. When it’s a combination of two cuisines that don’t have much in common, it’s harder for people to warm to it.”

When it comes to the label, Valero

believes there is an association to a low-

quality offering. “From what I’ve seen, it’s

December 2023 | 33

FEATURE // Fusion

“Fusion might be a bad word and not a popular word right now,

FEATURE // Fusion

“ While the term fusion accurately describes our culinary approach, it’s also important to emphasise the balance and synergy we aim to achieve.” - Daeun Kang

marinade for ceviche would be done with just

the two cuisines instead. “Our offering hinges on

that’s it,” says Valero. “But we use the Japanese

and while the term fusion accurately describes

limes, seafood, chillies, and sometimes onion — ume plum and also use it throughout the dish.”

When Nikkei Bar opened, it was the only venue

in Sydney serving the cuisine, but the sector has grown, which Valero believes is a testament to an interest in new, unique cuisines. The chef

also believes Australia’s multiculturalism will see

the integration of Japanese and French cuisines, our culinary approach, it’s also important to emphasise the balance and synergy we aim

to achieve,” says the chef. “The flavours come

together in a harmonious manner, rather than as a chaotic fusion.”

The culinary team hopes the blend of Japanese

more cuisines like Nikkei emerge. “Migration is

and French elements is well-received by guests.

we have to embrace,” he says. “We have to come

where the integration of Japanese and French

not going to stop happening and it’s something up with exciting venues with new flavours.

There’s also something charming with having something less traditional.”

Sydney’s Oborozuki opened with a traditional

Japanese teppanyaki and kaiseki dining experience in Circular Quay in 2022. But last month, the

venue launched a Japanese–French menu from newly appointed Head Chef Daeun Kang.

The move from a traditional offering to a

more fluid approach was inspired by the venue’s hope to stand out from the crowd and bring in new diners. “As we sought to expand our

offerings and appeal to a wider demographic,

we recognised the need for a more diverse and dynamic menu rather than following a more

traditional route,” says Kang. “It was driven by

“Our goal is to offer a dining experience

elements is so seamless that it feels like a natural

Baba’s Place

Baba’s

serves a

taramasalata

Similarly to Valero, Kang believes Australia’s

suburban-

toast is a

style food

play on chips

fusion dining across the country. “Australia boasts

offering

and dip

Kang does note it’s important for venues to

Nikkei is a

Oborozuki

of the food offering. “As long as there is a clear

blend of

now offers a

Japanese

Japanese–

and Peruvian

French menu

progression in the world of fine cuisine.”

multiculturalism has led to the evolution of

an abundance of diversity with influences from a multitude of countries,” says the chef. “This

melting pot of cultures has not only introduced a wide variety of flavours but also fostered an environment of culinary exploration.”

have a purpose when it comes to the direction and compelling purpose behind the fusion, it

will continue to evolve and find its place in the culinary landscape,” she says.

Just like any dining trend, fusion has evolved

a desire to strike a balance between catering to

from its origins to recreate itself in various

Japanese cuisine.”

not to namecheck fusion, others believe the

the local audience while retaining the essence of When it comes to being labelled as fusion, Kang

says she prefers the focus to be on the balance of 34 | Hospitality

forms with different labels. While some prefer story behind the label is vital to its growth to respectfully showcase multiple cuisines. ■

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SCAN TO SEE THE RANGE

5 MINUTES WITH ... // Erik Ortolani

Erik Ortolani The Italian-born chef on teaming his heritage with a love of Japanese cuisine at Ito. PHOTOGRAPHY Jiwon Kim

I HAVE BEEN into cooking since I was a

paced environment where you’d work on a

fish suppliers in Sydney, and we have

foodie and would always tell me stories

but quickly.

what’s best whether it’s oysters, oily fish,

small child. My grandmother was a big about where you would go for the best

wok or hibachi and slice sashimi elegantly

I was then approached by Esca Group’s

panettone, the fanciest crudo di mare, and

Ibby Moubadder, and we started testing

and ’70s.

process by moving from a traditional

the richest chocolate in Milan in the ’60s My passion for Japanese and Asian

cuisine stems from my childhood. Most of the time, I was living with my mum

in the countryside near Lake Maggiore. Everything was very homogeneous

and everyone was Italian and quite conservative. I would spend a few

weekends a month in Milan and go to a

dishes for Ito in March. We started the

the Asian casual dining scene in Sydney. I joined Cho Cho San and loved the fast38 | Hospitality

The duck ravioli is a decadent dish on the

ravioli was my favourite food, and I would

food would be more interesting, and we noticed a lot of similarities between the two cuisines in terms of flavour profiles and [ethea] along the way.

We want Ito to be a modern, buzzy

available from your suppliers and running

Milan before I moved to Australia to explore

the peak of their season.

as an Italian immigrant cooking Japanese

approach. We thought owning my heritage

jellyfish salad as a five-year-old, which I had a brief chapter as a cook at Nobu in

doing specials with vegetables and fruits at

menu. Some people don’t get the texture,

izakaya with constant menu changes to

triggered my curiosity.

or crustaceans. I’m also looking forward to

Japanese menu to a more eclectic

Chinese or Japanese restaurant with my family where I would eat raw fish and

ongoing conversations with them on

keep it seasonal. Seeing what’s fresh and with it is a very Italian approach — nothing is set in stone.

I am a big fan of seafood and Japanese

and Italian cooking offers me a huge

canvas to play with. We have amazing

but it’s probably my favourite. Growing up, steal Rana tortellini straight from the pack uncooked. The filling resembles agnolotti

del plin which is a northern Italian braised veal pasta dish. But instead of veal, I use

duck legs braised in master stock that are

then shredded and whipped with parmesan and cabbage. The mixture is wrapped in egg wonton pastry, cooked with brown

butter and ponzu, and dusted with sansho pepper. Seeing quality produce, especially from smaller growers, brings me so much

joy. Ortolani means greengrocers in Italian, maybe that’s why... ■

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Hospitality December 2023

Articles inside

FEATURE: SUMMER OPENINGS

FEATURE: SPRITZES

FEATURE: MURRAY COD ROE

DRINKS: RAKIJA

IN FOCUS: BURGER PARK