Shake it off
DRINKS // Ramos gin fizz
The iconic 12-minute drink may no longer necessitate a brigade of bartenders, but its theatrical nature lives on. WORDS Annabelle Cloros
134 YEARS AGO, a pioneering cocktail was incepted in New Orleans. At its
peak, the drink necessitated a brigade of bartenders known as shaker boys who
passed an ice-cold shaker wrapped in cloth between each other over a bicep-busting 12 minutes. The drink is of course the
Ramos gin fizz; a concoction created by
Henry “Carl” Ramos who launched it at the Imperial Cabinet Saloon, which he owned with his brother Charles.
The Ramos’ creamy body, citrus tang
and fluffy crown skyrocketed in popularity, resulting in the bar moving to the much
larger Stag Saloon in 1907. But the Saloon was forced to close its doors a few years later due to the Prohibition, with Henry famously stating, “I’ve sold my last gin fizz”, at midnight on 27 October.
Thankfully, the barman shared his recipe
and the drink has lived on, much to the joy or dismay of bartenders who have a love– hate relationship with the fizz.
Hospitality speaks to Gimlet’s Cameron
Parish and Lark Distilling’s Niall Maurici
about selecting the right gin, Ramos riffs
and if you really need to shake the tin for 12 minutes (hint, there are shortcuts).
The Ramos gin fizz is a divisive cocktail. There are two camps of bartenders who consider themselves fizz friends or foes.
Melbourne Bartender Cameron Parish is a firm friend. “All the annoyances about
the drink are outweighed by what it is,” he says. “It’s such an indulgent and rich cocktail, but at the same time, it can be so delicate and light, which is a bit of a
wonder. When you present the drink, the crown of the foam lifts above the lip of
the glass. It’s a sight to behold for people who have never seen it before. Even
perfecting the technique is rewarding;
it can sometimes send you down while
you’re busy, but the outcome of what it is
and how good the drink is — it’s worth it for me.” 30 | Hospitality