NO.784 JUNE 2022
make it a LYRE’S on the rocks
NON-ALCOHOLIC on the rocks? MAKE IT A LYRE’S
Lyre’s award-winning range of non-alcoholic spirits are quietly changing the way the world drinks. How? By giving drinkers and non-drinkers alike the freedom to drink their drink, their way. Is your venue missing out on the growth from Lyre’s premium non-alcoholic options? Why not test the waters and unlock the consumer opportunity with an alcohol-free on the rocks? Made possible with Lyre’s Non-Alcoholic Highland Malt.
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NO.784 JUNE 2022
CHISWICK’S TAYLOR CULLEN • PUB DINING • WINTER COCKTAILS • BIRYANI
CONTENTS // June
Contents JUNE 2022
22
Regulars 8 // IN FOCUS The current state of the global coffee industry. 12 // NEWS The latest openings, books, events and more. 14 // PRODUCE Wasabi: a plant that can be grown in water and soil. 16 // BEST PRACTICE Is automation right for your business? 20 // BAR CART Thirst quenchers, slow sippers and all things beverage related.
4 | Hospitality
30
52
22 // DRINKS Winter cocktails and specialised bars.
Features
30 // PROFILE Head Chef Taylor Cullen is ushering in Chiswick’s 10th birthday with a vegcentric approach. 72 // EQUIPMENT The stick blender is an essential for a reason. 74 // 5 MINUTES WITH … Foxtrot Unicorn’s Shirley Yeung.
38 // CALZONE It’s made from identical ingredients to pizza, but calzone is far from the same. 44 // BIRYANI Two chefs weigh in on the iconic rice-based dish. 52 // BABKA Tradition and decadence combine. 58 // PUB RESTAURANTS Menus have come a long way from steak and chips. 66 // WOMEN IN LIQUOR Ciara Doran from The Doss House and Frank Mac’s.
hello@futurefarmpacific.com
EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello
Social
Keep up with the Hospitality team
WINING AND DINING Celebrating 10 years of Matt Moran’s Chiswick restaurant with a feast. @aristinedob
A word from the editor WE’VE ALREADY HIT the halfway mark of
a long way and is the focus of a feature
2022 and hospitality venues are very much
on the Waterloo Inn in Swansea and The
making the most of the cool season. Despite
Lucky Prawn in Sydney. Both concepts have
plunging temperatures, things have been
become serious drawcards for diners who are
heating up in the food and beverage scene;
also treated to a stellar beverage offering of
I know I have been making the most of winter
natural wines and beers on tap.
menus and a glass of red (or two). This issue, I speak with Chiswick’s Taylor
In addition, you’ll find stories on pizza’s sibling (calzone); a look at biryani and babka
Cullen, who is heading up the venue as it
plus a review on the current state of the
celebrates its 10th birthday — no mean feat in
global coffee industry based on new findings
a competitive landscape. The chef has been
from World Coffee Research.
making the most of the restaurant’s kitchen garden which lends itself to his veg-driven
Until next time,
culinary approach.
Annabelle Cloros
The food offering at pubs has come
KOWLOON CALLING A plate of pork noodles with pickled cabbage at Burwood’s Kowloon Café. @annabellecloros
Editor
TWO’S COMPANY Devon Café and Tokyo Lamington’s limited collaboration covered onigiri and sweet treats. @hospitalitymagazine
Follow us @hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au JOURNALIST Aristine Dobson adobson@intermedia.com.au
ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au GROUP ART DIRECTOR – LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au
CIRCULATIONS To subscribe please call 1800 651 422. hospitalitymag azine.com.au facebook.com/ HospitalityMagazine instagram.com/ hospitalitymagazine
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DISCLAIMER This publication is published by Food and Beverage Media, a division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication. Copyright © 2022– The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd
6 | Hospitality
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IN FOCUS // World Coffee Research
A brighter future The coffee industry has been left behind when it comes to agricultural production, but World Coffee Research is putting in the work to make a change. WORDS Aristine Dobson COFFEE IS BIG business in Australia, and
consumer demand continues to increase. But in recent years, the coffee industry has been
increase coffee production, and so far, it has
helped the sector move in the right direction. WCR’s 2021 research was published by the
significantly impacted by climate change.
organisation in partnership with Illycaffè and
and under-innovated crops in the world despite
genes and genetic markers associated with
Coffee is one of the most under-researched its prevalence.
World Coffee Research (WCR) was formed
in 2011 to address such issues. Since then, the not-for-profit organisation has made strides
to ensure the future of the industry as well as
improve the livelihoods of the people who work within it.
The 2021 WCR Annual Report reveals the
progress made in accelerating agricultural production, breeding programs and trials,
diversifying coffee species and most importantly, creating climate-resilient crops.
Hospitality speaks to Director of Strategy and
Communications Hanna Neuschwander about the recent findings and what it means for the sector moving forward.
World Coffee Research focuses on three key areas within coffee agriculture — breeding,
trials and nurseries. All three work together to 8 | Hospitality
“Coffee is arriving very late to these approaches, which
Lavazza and allows producers “to identify key
have been used
important plant characteristics that matter for
for other crops
farmers”, says Hanna Neuschwander. “Having that information helps speed up the breeding process and makes it cheaper.”
The Arabica coffee genome didn’t exist 10
years ago, but has become the coffee of choice for many, comprising 60 per cent of global
production. It’s one of 130 species and is highly sought after, making the open-access genome
a huge milestone for the coffee community. “It is critical for enabling breeders to accelerate
crop improvement for coffee, which is urgently needed,” says Neuschwander. “Farmers need
access to better varieties to meet the challenges
of the 21st century. The more tools breeders have at their disposal, the more likely they are to help address those needs through breeding.”
The Coffee-Breeding Program Assessment
Tool was implemented in 2020 by WCR in
collaboration with the University of Queensland.
for years.” – Hanna Neuschwander
OUTT OF YOUR Y MENU
www.nestleprofessi
onal.com.au
IN FOCUS // World Coffee Research The program aims to identify gaps in the
The trial is still ongoing, and has shown
tend to score more generously than
technical management of coffee breeding
promising results so far. “There are some
low-cost tools for breeders. “Breeding is
across many different environments (they
of connecting researchers to those in
Neuschwander. “There are also many others
there creating new varieties for farmers
and amend them by providing basic
a numbers game — the more crosses you
make, the more likely you are to find one that offers genuine improvement,” says
Neuschwander. “But crossing two plants together, growing them and observing
them over 10 years is costly. With genetics technology, you can predict the likelihood that a cross will succeed without waiting
high-performing varieties that have stability don’t only perform well in one place),” says
that perform really well in one place, but not so well in others. They might be excellent for today’s conditions, but as the weather changes, farmers will need to adopt new varieties to remain successful.”
Positive results are one thing, but
international cuppers.”
The results demonstrate the importance
the industry. “Coffee breeders are out
that roasters will eventually receive to
build their coffee menus and products,”
says Neuschwander. “When they receive
feedback from farmers and buyers, coffee variety innovation really creates value.”
so long, so you are more likely to find
experts also need to measure progress
WCR has endeavoured to increase the
without genetic modification.”
Graders or cuppers come in. “We took a
the production of seed varieties. The
a combination that is truly successful
Testing different varieties is crucial when
developing crops that are able to withstand the environmental changes brought on by climate change. In 2015, WCR launched
on a consumer level, which is where Q
subset of 10 varieties from trial sites in six
countries and sent them to highly qualified cuppers from 20 coffee companies in nine countries,” says Neuschwander.
Cupping scores go up to 100 points, with
number of nurseries globally to increase figures in the new findings show 139 seed
lots are producing 15 varieties in countries
such as Guatemala, El Salvador, Nicaragua, Honduras and Peru.
It’s a positive outcome for the research
its inaugural International Multilocation
anything below 80 not considered to be a
and development that has occurred across
planted in 24 locations in 17 countries,”
by international buyers and researchers
to ensure the industry’s future. “Coffee
Variety Trial. “The same 31 varieties were explains Neuschwander. “The varieties are being exposed to huge variation in climate and weather, which is vital for understanding the potential of today’s
varieties to withstand climate change.” 10 | Hospitality
specialty coffee. The initiative was judged who managed the trials. “It confirms another trend we see in our cupping
research — cuppers are not consistent
with one another,” says Neuschwander.
“In general, local, country-based cuppers
the board, but there’s a long way to go
is arriving very late to these approaches,
which have been used for other crops for years,” says Neuschwander. “We have to
catch up fast if we want to have a chance against climate change.” ■
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NEWS // Entrée
Entrée
The latest openings, books, events and more. EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros
Licoreria Limantour takes over Shell House Acclaimed bar Licoreria Limantour is travelling from Mexico City to Sydney for a three-day pop-up at Shell House. Currently sitting at number six on The World’s 50 Best Bars list, and named as the 2021 winner of The Best Bar in North America, Licoreria Limantour is bringing its signature cocktails to Sky Bar from 21–23 June. Head Chef Aaron Ward will create a snacks menu designed to complement the drinks, which “celebrate taste, texture and aroma”. shellhouse.com.au
Team effort Meru Miso has collaborated with Brookfarm to create a macadamia miso with pink sea salt. The release comes after Meru Miso supplied Melbourne’s Vue de Monde with the paste for a number of years, with the team deciding to launch it to the public for the very first time. The miso features Australian oven-roasted macadamia nuts from Brookfarm and is described as “wonderfully complex, sweet, salty, savoury and umami”. Available for $15.50 from merumiso.com
Jewel of the sea Pearl Chablis & Oyster Bar celebrates the finer things in life in Melbourne’s CBD. The Bourke Street venue is the brainchild of the team behind Pinchy’s Champagne and Lobster Bar and has a long menu of New South Wales oysters on ice from Moonlight Flats to Wapengo Rocks. A snappy menu covers dishes including beef tartare, duck liver parfait and trout rillette, with sea urchin and periwinkles also on offer. Guests can choose a drop from the largest Chablis collection in the country, with the venue spotlighting a range of appellations and vintages from a standout producer each month. pearloyster.co
12 | Hospitality
NEWS // Entrée
Good things take time Head Chef of Six Penny Tony Schifilliti spent years working on Cura, a koji-centric seasoning brand created to enhance flavours. The black garlic paste undergoes a two-step fermentation process that sees organic garlic heated to 60 degrees Celsius for six weeks until it changes colour. The bulbs are then combined with barley koji, soybeans and salt and are left to ferment for 10 months, resulting in an “umami-complex garlic”. Find Sydney stockists at curaseasonings.com.au
A walk to remember On the Himalayan Trail Romy Gill Hardie Grant Books; $55 Food writer Romy Gill puts Kashmir and Ladakh dishes in the spotlight in On the Himalayan Trail. The book includes more than 80 recipes encompassing shami kebabs (minced lamb patties); wagen pakora (fried eggplant); kanguch yakhni (morels in spicy gravy) as well as hearty meat curries. Commended by Gordon Ramsay, who said the first-of-its-kind book is “simply stunning”, Gill charts the intricacies of Kashmiri cookery and its significant role in India’s vast food culture. hardiegrant.com
The Strand ushers in a new era Iconic Sydney venue The Strand has reopened in Darlinghurst after undergoing an extensive renovation under new owners Public Hospitality. At its completion this winter, the four-level venue will include a rooftop bar, accommodation and a French-inspired bistro, which is now open. Guests can enjoy all the classics at the all-day restaurant including steak frites, duck with plum and radicchio and a Gruyere burger. There’s also a 49-bottle whisky list and a selection of cocktails inspired by France. thestrand-hotel.com June 2022 | 13
PRODUCE // Wasabi Leaves can be consumed raw
A mature plant can yield up to 300g stems
Stems priced at $100 per kg back in 2011–2012 The Western horseradish plant is often used in place of authentic wasabi
Seeds are difficult to source
Traditionally ground on a dried shark fin
14 | Hospitality
PRODUCE // Wasabi
Wasabi The green-hued plant is an essential in Japanese cookery. WORDS Annabelle Cloros Origins
cleaned under potable water. The
Wasabi is a foundational ingredient in
leaves, petioles and stems are edible
Japanese cuisine and has been grown
and can be harvested along with the
in the country since the eighth century.
stems. Sometimes, the stem is picked
Wasabi, or Wasabia japonica, is a
with the leaves still attached, which
semi-aquatic perennial herb that is
indicates freshness. Wasabi can be
part of the Brassicaceae family, which
harvested at any time of the year if it
also includes horseradish. Daruma and
has reached peak maturation.
Mazuma are the two main cultivars produced in Japan and Taiwan as well
Flavour profile and appearance
as Tasmania here in Australia. The
Wasabi plants have long stems that
plant is a high-value crop, and as such,
produce small white flowers. The
production levels are declining due to
knobbly stems are bright green in
difficulties relating to environmental
colour and can grow up to 10cm long
factors as well as costs.
and 3cm in diameter. Green leaves cover the stems and can reach up to
Growth and harvest
150mm in diameter.
The plant was originally found in streams
The pungent flavour of wasabi
in Japan and is still grown in water today
can be likened to hot mustard or
in addition to soil. Wasabi produced
horseradish. It often generates a
in water is said to be of superior
sensation in the nose rather than on
quality to its soil counterpart, which is
the palate. It has a clean, white heat
reflected in the price. Wasabi does not
that results in a burning sensation
tolerate direct sunlight and requires
when consumed.
temperatures that remain under 25 degrees Celsius. For soil, wasabi should
Culinary applications
be planted in raised, shaded beds
There are several ways wasabi can
irrigated with high-quality water that
be used. Most commonly, the stem is
can drain properly. If pollution is present
freshly ground using a square metal
in the water, wasabi will not survive. In
grater called an oroshigane. Wasabi is
Tasmania, daruma is grown in soil and
dabbed sparingly on sushi or sashimi
mazuma is grown in water.
by chefs or given to guests to use
It takes between 22 to 24 months
according to their own tastes. The
for wasabi to reach maturation,
herb’s stems and leaves can be made
with the herb produced in two-year
into a dried powder that’s used as a
cycles. The stems are harvested by
seasoning or to add flavour to chips,
hand and should be trimmed and
peas, cheese or rice crackers. ■ June 2022 | 15
BEST PRACTICE // Automation
Future thinking Can automation help your business become more profitable? WORDS Ken Burgin
YOU’VE SEEN THE videos of
Steam LP 3-Group and Victoria
second coffee purchase. But for
hot, fresh pizza coming from
Arduino Black Eagle 3-Group
technology such as Flow Coffee
a machine and a robotic arm
for espresso and an Ubermilk
analytics, it’s a bit longer and
mixing cocktails or making
for high-quality, high-volume
perhaps a less-tangible outcome
coffee. No people equals no
milk delivery.
as it’s primarily about the quality
wages, which sounds like a good
“When using milk alternatives,
of the product rather than the
move in 2022, but what will your
we have temperature gauges
speed or decreased wastage.
customers think? If their priorities
on all jugs to increase
Each new system is looked at
are consistent quality, speed and
temperature consistency. We
for the benefits that are likely to
value, automation can help you
also use Flow Coffee espresso
flow through to our business.”
achieve that.
diagnostics to help baristas
Matt Lucas is behind the Coffee
As an investor in technology,
remain focused on producing
Lucas is currently looking at
Pedaler cafés in Gundagai and
quality espresso according to
some robotic systems to install
Tumut in New South Wales, which
our recipe parameter.”
at his two cafés. “How a robot
cater to tourists and locals using
Lucas examines the cost-
automation. His typical customer
benefit ratio before splashing
and possibly customers, along
is someone who wants an
out on any new technology. “I
with other IT infrastructure and
alternative to freeway fast food;
want to get a payback in less
existing equipment installations,
they are prepared to pay a little
than a year on any equipment we
will be a gamechanger in
extra, but do not want long
invest in,” he says. “It was easy
hospitality,” he says. “I don’t
wait times.
to work out the cost saving with
believe the future of hospitality
“We are most automated in
interacts with human employees
Ubermilk based on the increased
in Australia is customer–robot
our coffee set-up,” says Lucas.
capacity of the baristas plus
interaction, but rather robot–
“We use a Mahlkonig grinder for
the decreased milk usage and
food/beverage production,
consistent dosing; a Puqpress
the reduced wait times, which
with humans providing the
for consistent tamping; a Slayer
leads to the likelihood of a
differentiating experience.” ■
16 | Hospitality
“How a robot interacts with human employees and possibly customers … will be a gamechanger in hospitality.” – Matt Lucas
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ADVERTORIAL // Jands
Elevate the customer experience through sound It’s one of the most powerful ways to trigger human emotion. JANDS HAS BEEN in the business
perceived all together.
of entertaining Australia for over
A well-tuned audio
wrong spaces at incorrect
is about the strategic placement
angles or with wrong
of a unified array of speakers
50 years, working hand in hand
atmosphere is not simply a minor
configuration can still ruin the
covering as much space as
with some of the biggest artists
consideration, but rather a
experience of a venue. When all
possible without needing to push
in the world and at some of
crucial component of a venue’s
aspects of the venue’s story are
out massive heavy sounds.
Australia’s largest venues. Jands
design. The sound becomes a
taken into consideration, people
Different venues cater to
has expanded into numerous
part of the story a venue is trying
are more compelled to stay and
different crowds, with each
sectors, creating and sourcing all
to tell, and it is the sound system
return, and most importantly, are
space requiring a level of audio-
sorts of audio and visual solutions
itself that ties it all together.
more likely to spend. 51 per cent
visual knowledge to finetune its
from concerts and boardrooms to
Even the best music can
of additional drink bill spending
story. As a leading distributor
lead to a negative impact on
comes from the complementary
of audiovisual solutions, Jands’
hospitality venues.
a venue’s internal story if the
music atmosphere and 71 per
team of application designers
has given Jands a tremendous
Years of audio expertise
quality of the sound system isn’t
cent of customers think playing
pair decades of technical
amount of insight into what
considered. Systems of poor
background music creates a
expertise with best-in-class
makes a venue’s audio system
quality can produce loud and
better atmosphere while dining.
solutions such as Electro Voice’s
stand out. Often pushed aside
jarring sounds that turn away
as mere “background noise”,
new customers before they
phenomenal sound system is not
sound has been proven to not
even enter and sour remaining
a matter of using the biggest and
about audio solutions for dining
just affect the emotions of venue
customers from returning.
loudest speakers to flood a venue
spaces, visit jands.com.au/
with sound. A great sound system
contact ■
patrons, but how a venue is 18 | Hospitality
Good systems set up in the
In Jands’ expert opinion, a
EVID loudspeaker family. If you would like to learn more
FIND OUT MORE
NEWS // Drinks
Bar cart
Thirst quenchers, slow sippers and all things beverage related. EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros
Mix it up Elevating drinks has become a lot easier with S.Pellegrino’s new mixer range that covers Ginger Beer, Tonica Citrus and Tonica Oakwood. The Ginger Beer can be sipped solo or used in a Moscow Mule, with the citrus tonic’s notes of lemon and orange peel plus bitter bark making it the ideal accompaniment to gin or vodka. Oakwood sees oak extracts generate bitter notes that highlight gin botanicals perfectly. $8.50 for a four-pack. sanpellegrino.com
Hazy days On the rocks Australia’s first non-alcoholic ‘dram’ is here thanks to Lyre’s. Highland Malt has a soft earthiness and bouquet with notes of light grain cereal, stone fruit and almond. The whisky-style beverage evokes charred oak and warm spices alongside a ‘welcoming’ smoke. “Whether served neat or in mixers, whisky is a firm favourite for many around the world,” says David Murphy from Lyre’s. “Understanding this, we’ve worked tirelessly to study the aromas and tastes whisky fans most enjoy to deliver Highland Malt.” Available from Dan Murphy’s, liquor retailers and lyres.com.au
Sidewinder is channelling citrus and stone fruit in two new XPAs: lime and passionfruit. Brick Lane created Sidewinder to cater to the no- and low-alcohol markets, with the two new options joining the range and sitting at less than 0.5 per cent ABV. The lime XPA has aromas of lime juice, orange oil and citrus hops along with stone fruit esters and a biscuity-malt character. Passionfruit is the hero in the second beer, which also has notes of guava and mango. Available at Dan Murphy’s and Coles. sidewinderlife.com.au
Ginger zinger Better Beer has expanded its range with an alcoholic ginger
Los Siete Misterios arrives
flavourway that combines
The local mezcal scene has been shaken up with the
nostalgia with those looking for a
launch of Los Siete Misterios in Australia. The brand
low-sugar beverage option. The
was created in 2010 by the Mestres brothers and
founders developed the product
produces mezcals according to traditional production
over several months until they were
methods in Oaxaca, Mexico. Siete Misterios says it
happy with the final version, which
“remain[s] respectful of one of the purest essences:
has a spicy ginger hit and just 4g
mezcal, a genuine Mexican heritage”. Doba-Yej
of sugar per 100ml. Described as
(bright, floral, citrus); Pechuga (fragrant and spice-
a “dangerously tasty alcoholic
driven) and Tobala (tropical fruit, herbs, wet earth)
ginger beer that hits the spot”, the
are now available and reflect the traditions of the
refresher is available at BWS and
agave spirit. vanguardluxurybrands.com.au
Dan Murphy’s. betterbeer.com.au
20 | Hospitality
Boston Butt mop sauce a culinary revolution!
A Mop Sauce is used in Texan BBQ to help cool down the meat and lock in the flavour. Bull’s Eye Original BBQ sauce imparts a bold, Smokey flavour while the Maillard Reaction between sugars & proteins that occurs with heat, helps create that beautiful, caramelised colour. The mop is used to periodically baste the meat, perfect for a Boston Butt or Pork shoulder! serves 6-8
MEAT
MOP SAUCE
2-3kg Boston butt, bone in
1 cup dark/strong coffee
20g seasoning mix from: 1 cup brown sugar ½ cup salt 4 tablespoons smoked paprika 2 tablespoons coarse black pepper ½ tablespoon cumin ½ tablespoon onion powder ½ tablespoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon sugar 1 cup BULL’S EYE ORIGINAL BBQ SAUCE 1 full tablespoon fresh coarse ground black pepper 1 tablespoon SAXA NATURAL SEA SALT FLAKES ¼ cup butter ½ cup LEA & PERRINS WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE
original BBQ SAUCE
1
4-6 hours
Combine all seasoning ingredients together in a bowl. Transfer seasoning mix to an airtight container (like a mason jar or other dry rub container). Will keep for up to a year if sealed tight and stored in a cool place.
2 Season your pork with salt & pepper, go wild here & feel free to freestyle. You could also use onion & garlic powders as well as smoked paprika for extra flavours. 3 To make the Mop Sauce, mix everything together bar the butter, bring to the boil gently & whisk in cold cubed butter. Don’t be fooled by the sauce’s consistency, it’s designed to be less viscous than traditional sauces because it will permeate the meat, caramelise & repeat. Keep close to the joint of meat & periodically “mop”. 4 Cooking in a traditional oven is simple, get your oven to around ¾ of its max temp. Most ovens run at 280˚max, so aim for around 210 for the first half of the cook, then reduce the temperature down to around 100 degrees for the rest of the cook. Around 2 hours per kilo should be just about right.
SCAN FOR RECIPE
DRINKS // Specialised bars
One of a kind Bar Conte is diversifying a classic via a 12-Negroni menu. WORDS Aristine Dobson
22 | Hospitality
DRINKS // Specialised bars
CONCEPTUAL BARS HAVE become
commonplace in the industry, with venues
dedicated to whisky, gin, tequila, mezcal and
more. But what if there was a place that honed
in on one cocktail? Sydney’s Bar Conte is a new
player on the scene highlighting an Italian classic — the Negroni. The menu has more than 12
iterations of the drink and brings new meaning to the phrase ‘the more, the merrier’.
Co-Owner (and self-described Negroni lover)
Daniele Lombardi is behind the bar in Surry Hills and talks to Hospitality about the motivation
behind the menu, what makes the Negroni his
drink of choice and how to tweak a cocktail that’s lauded for its simplicity.
In Milan, Italy, specialised aperitivo bars are
The Americano and the original Negroni
commonplace, with the city essentially creating the
signalled the beginning of closely related classic
liqueurs such as limoncello and Amaro are always
Campari is the common denominator. “The
concept. Campari and Aperol-centric drinks and paired with small antipasti dishes. “We are from
Italy, so the concept of an aperitivo bar is something we grew up with,” says Daniele Lombardi.
The bartender runs the business with his brother
Raffaele Lombardi and ex-Apollo chef Steven de Vecchi. The team decided to expand the original
venue Caffé Conte earlier this year to launch a bar
cocktails. While they all have different twists,
and the white Negroni,” says Lombardi. “My
grew up with.”
favourite one is the classic, but then you’ve got
the Milano Torino with vermouth and Campari, The Boulevardier swaps out gin for bourbon
Negroni Tropicale is another signature. “It has
have taken a more casual approach to drinking and dining. “I’ve noticed people like to have
sometimes served in taller glassware. The
an infusion of pineapple and coconut oil which
goes with the gin and the Campari, making it a tropical-style [drink],” says Lombardi.
Bar Conte’s main goal is to showcase the
small sittings and aperitif-style drinks are
different ways a Negroni can be made and
and how we grew up back home.”
found throughout Italy. Lombardi lists the
becoming bigger here; it goes with our concept Amongst the vast selection of aperitifs and
digestifs, the menu has a section dedicated to
Negronis. The cocktail is a global staple in bars and has inspired a significant number of riffs.
“The Negroni itself has a lot of variations that have been around for years, but we wanted a
list with all of them,” says Lombardi. “Everybody loves the Negroni.”
The drink comprises equal parts dry London gin, Campari and sweet vermouth. The Negroni is
believed to have started out as a derivative of
the Americano, with Bar Conte paying tribute
to the drink’s history in its name. “Conte means
‘count’,” says Lombardi. “The Negroni came from the Americano cocktail when Count Camillo de Negroni [French general in Florence] swapped the soda for gin.”
– Daniele Lombardi
which is considered a twist.”
[there] are Campari umbrellas outside; it feels like Bar Conte is part of the wave of venues that
aperitivo bar is something we
sbagliato, the Boulevardier, the coffee Negroni
while the sbagliato uses Prosecco and is
a little part of Milan,” says Lombardi.
so the concept of an
Americano came first, then the Negroni, the
that reflects an Italian experience. “Even with the
design, we’re using ’50s and ’60s dark greens and
“We are from Italy,
educate patrons on regional interpretations coffee Negroni as an example. “Many people
have heard about the coffee Negroni, but it is something that has existed for a long time in
Naples,” he says. “I want to share these details
on our menu, which lists where each [Negroni] comes from; there is a history behind all of them.”
Lombardi has been making cocktails for 15 years, and while his knowledge, skills and
The Negroni was created at Caffè
Campari
Giacosa in
is from
Florence
Milan
Cynar is
Bar Conte
personal tastes extend far beyond the Negroni,
it is a drink he cannot fault. “If someone comes
into our bar and asks for an espresso martini, of course I’m going to make it,” he says. “But you
can have those drinks anywhere. If we focus on
one thing, we’re going to make sure we achieve
perfection with every single Negroni we have on the list.” ■
made from
also has a
artichokes
spritz menu
June 2022 | 23
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DRINKS // Winter cocktails
Soothing
sips
An underground bar is embracing the chill with a bespoke cocktail list. WORDS Aristine Dobson PHOTOGRAPHY Steven Woodburn and Jiwon Kim
26 | Hospitality
DRINKS // Winter cocktails
THE TEMPERATURE HAS offically dropped outside, which means fruity refreshers have been swapped for slow sippers. Bartenders are creating citrus-driven cocktails with dark spirits that are rich
in flavour and heavy on complexity. Hot toddies, mulled wine and liquor-spiked lattes have become the go-to as the drinking public embraces the cool season with seasonally appropriate options. Sydney bar Apollonia has taken a classic yet contemporary
approach with its current menu, which revolves around warming spices and barrel-aged spirits. Beverage Director Jason Williams talks to Hospitality about working with different spirits and creating winter cocktails that bring the heat.
When asked to define a winter cocktail, Jason Williams says it
should generate a sense of warmth. “I don’t necessarily mean the
temperature, but the flavours and sensations that psychologically
make people feel more comfortable and fuzzy on the inside,” he says. Cool-season drinks tend to be sweet and rich, evoking dessert-
like characteristics. “Baking spices or stewed fruit, chocolate,
vanilla and caramel are perfect for winter-style cocktails,” says
“Anything aged in a wooden barrel for a long period of time is perfect for winter cocktails because you’re going to have an inherent sweetness from the spirit.” – Jason Williams
Williams. “Cinnamon is probably the most common. If you drink
a cocktail and the first thing you smell is nutmeg or cinnamon, it indicates it is going to be a warming cocktail.”
Certain spirits and liqueurs can also enhance and complement
such flavours. Williams tips dark barrel-aged spirits as a must. “Anything aged in a wooden barrel for a long period of time
is perfect for winter cocktails because you’re going to have an
inherent sweetness from the spirit,” he says. “Particularly when it comes to American whiskies or rums because they have a big sugar base. The volatile spirit interacts with the wood over a number of years and takes on its characteristics.”
June 2022 | 27
DRINKS // Winter cocktails Any dark spirit can fit the bill, with common
examples seen in quintessential cocktails. “Winter cocktails are traditionally dark spirit-forward Chinotto
Old World
is made
Ways is
from bitter
$24 at
orange
Apollonia
Godfather or a Rusty Nail, which all have a dark
perfect winter flavours,” says Williams. “They’re
spirit with a liqueur,” says Williams. “Other famous cocktails are literally hot drinks such as a Hot
punch when heated up.”
liqueur is
highball
crafted with
uses
macadamia
strawberry
nuts and
gum
wattleseed
Apollonia’s cocktail menu is geared towards
have to be high in alcohol content. “Amaros have
quite sweet, herbal and honeyed, so we lengthen
them with fresh citrus, a little bit of strawberry and some eucalyptus to brighten it up. The drink is still quite dark, herbal and moreish, which is what you might expect from winter flavours, but it’s in a tall low-alcohol application.”
Presentation is integral to building any
classic Italian-style drinks that have been tailored
cocktail, no matter the season, and choosing
Manhattan, which has a peppery foundation and
“Glassware is important for winter cocktails
to reflect the season. An example is the chinotto
uses a house chinotto-flavoured sweet vermouth. “We do a little twist on it with American rye whiskey as the base and then we use dried
native Australian pepperberry,” says Williams.
The chinotto is reduced with vermouth before
it’s combined with a juniper-based amaro from
Never Never. “You’ve got lots of spice, dark citrus and aged spirits blended together in a spirit-
forward cocktail,” says Williams. “We also add a
the right glassware is part of the process.
because it can also add some comfort,” says
Williams. “If you have a nice whisky on a big
block of ice or an Old Fashioned, it will come in a double Old Fashioned glass and have a heavy
base or a cut pattern. It’s quite thick and sturdy and indicative of what you’re drinking. You
know it’s going to have a warming effect on the body and the mind.”
few dashes of a homemade tincture.”
Whether it’s a classic cocktail or a bespoke
addition to the menu, is another example.
bartenders to experiment with heavier spirits
The Old World Ways, which is a recent
The drink also uses American whiskey as a
foundation. “It’s basically a macadamia chocolate and orange Old Fashioned,” says Williams. “We
use Brookie’s Mac, which is a macadamia liqueur 28 | Hospitality
On the opposite end of the spectrum is an amaro
highball that proves a good winter cocktail doesn’t
two-ingredient cocktails such as a Whisky Mac, a
all quite spirit-forward cocktails and really pack a
The amaro
liqueur from South Australia.”
Old Fashioneds, Manhattans and even simple
Toddy, hot buttered rum or Blue Blazer; they’re
Brookie’s Mac
from Byron Bay, and some Australian orange
creation, winter is the perfect time for
and rich flavour profiles. A cool-season cocktail
can be anything from a whisky-centric sipper to a drink that highlights citrus season or spices — the options are endless.
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PROFILE // Taylor Cullen
30 | Hospitality
PROFILE // Taylor Cullen
Taylor Cullen
Cool, calm and collected is the name of the game for Chiswick’s head chef. WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Steven Woodburn and Benito Martin
TAYLOR CULLEN WAS washing dishes at his
family’s restaurant in New Zealand at the age of 11. By the time he turned 14, he was working
says Cullen. “It made me realise I could work in breakfast, casual or fine-dining places.”
It was during this time Cullen received a
on larder and prep. The hospitality kid grew
valuable lesson from chef Corey Hume, who
chef and a mum as a front-of-house whiz, which
for good. “He taught me how to study,” says
up in the thick of the industry with a dad as a
made the move from school to catering college
(while doing 40 hours a week at the restaurant) a familiar but nonetheless exciting step.
Cullen has worked in almost every type of
venue over the years and has now settled into the head chef role of Matt Moran’s Chiswick
would go on to shape his approach to cooking Cullen. “Whether it was through books or recipes from other chefs, he taught me how to break
them down and put them in context so you’re not copying and creating your own recipes. It’s something I’ll never forget.”
Developing a broad skill set served the chef
restaurant in Sydney’s Eastern Suburbs. It’s here
well during his travels through Europe alongside
cooking ethos thanks to the venue’s signature
across France, Spain and Portugal. “I later
where you’ll experience his vegetable-centric — and abundant — kitchen garden.
The chef speaks to Hospitality about learning
the ropes at Luxury Lodges, putting paddock-
to-plate into practice and making his mark on a restaurant celebrating a decade in business.
After ticking off catering college, Taylor Cullen
snagged a job alongside Head Chef Jane Tibble
Island — for two years. “The lodges are great for chefs who want to learn how to do everything
because you run breakfast, lunch and dinner and you’re catering to a wide range of customers,”
essentially the closest thing to what I grew up in as a kid.” – Taylor Cullen
chef later made his way back to Australia and
joined the kitchen of the now-shuttered Bridge
Room in Sydney under Ross Lusted. “I was there
for six months before it closed and then the head chef role at Paperbark came up.”
Paperbark was the city’s only fine-dining plant-
to putting vegetables first when meat was still
at another lodge — Blanket Bay in the South
restaurant that’s
before I went to Costa Rica,” says Cullen. The
started at the luxury hotel as a demi chef before then returned to New Zealand to work as a CDP
neighbourhood
moved to America and became a private chef
based restaurant at the time (2018), with the
working his way up to chef de partie (CDP). He
a really cool
his brother, with the pair cooking in venues
at Longitude 131° just outside Uluṟu-Kata Tjuṯa National Park in the Northern Territory. Cullen
“I thought it was
venue remembered for its innovative approach dominating menus. Cullen worked at the Waterloo venue until he was presented with another
overseas opportunity. “I went to Los Angeles and
ran the Bondi Harvest restaurants and was about
to open a spot in Milan, Italy, but COVID-19 hit at the wrong time,” he says. “We were six days from opening and I had to come home.”
June 2022 | 31
PROFILE // Taylor Cullen World events resulted in Cullen’s return to Sydney and
the kitchen of Ross Lusted, with the chef taking on a gig at Woodcut at Crown before Solotel came knocking. “During the next lockdown, Chiswick rang, and I was like, ‘Yeah sweet, let’s go’.”
Besides a brief stint shucking oysters and slicing sashimi
at North Bondi Fish to extend a holiday, joining Chiswick marked the first time Cullen had worked for Solotel. But
the restaurant wasn’t unchartered territory for the Cullen family. “My brother and his partner have both worked at
Chiswick before,” he says. “My brother and I would come here every year for our Christmas dinner, and I thought it was a really cool neighbourhood restaurant that’s
essentially the closest thing to what I grew up in as a kid.” Due to restrictions, Cullen’s head chef appointment last
year didn’t come with the usual trial or team meet and
greet. “I was producing a menu without having stepped
foot in the kitchen until we were a couple of weeks away from opening,” he says. “So, I just threw myself in the deep-end.”
Taking on the leadership position of a kitchen is a challenge for a chef of any calibre, especially when it comes to
producing menus that remain within an established venue’s parameters while reflecting a personal cooking style.
But Cullen’s pared-back principles are a natural fit with
Chiswick’s ethos, which could be described as home-
style, rustic food you’d eat at home, but probably couldn’t replicate. And while the chef is playing by the rules,
he’s stayed true to his own style with dishes that largely
revolve around vegetables. “Chiswick was more of a meat and three-veg sort venue, and we have really pushed it to have more plant-based options,” says the chef. “It’s more sustainable and vegetables have such a big range; there
are so many interesting things you can do with them, and I want to show people that.” 32 | Hospitality
“I’m trying to create a team environment without the hostility of old-school kitchens.” – Taylor Cullen
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PROFILE // Taylor Cullen It’s a notion that’s reflected in a capsicum
work for yourself, you don’t get that. He’s happy
it’s seasoned with fermented lemon juice and
honest if a dish doesn’t work, which I really like.
dish, which sees the vegetable roasted before olive oil. “We take lemons off the tree, salt
them for one week and then we juice the whole
to give credit where it’s due or be completely You can’t get past honesty — it’s important.”
fruit to get a cloudy, fermented lemon juice,”
They say you don’t have to do much when you
simple roasted capsicum and creating a really
more relevant for Chiswick, which is one of
says Cullen. “It’s little things like taking a
interesting flavour profile. I approach vegetables with the thought process of how we can make
them as interesting as possible while keeping the integrity of the whole ingredient.”
Another example is an ocean trout dish from
the autumn menu, which was a nod to Cullen’s
time with Ross Lusted. “He taught me that things can be burnt without being burnt, so we had a piece of ocean trout that was seared skin-side
down in the pan until it was charred,” says the chef. The dish was teamed with wood-fired
cabbage doused in anchovy butter and garnished with garden nasturtiums and marigolds. “The
cabbage was smoky and it was so simple next to
the fish, but so tasty. It’s always the simple ones.” One of the perks of working at Chiswick has
got to be having access to Matt Moran, who
gives the greenlight for each dish that makes
the menu. “He tastes everything with six other people from Solotel and it’s great to get that
feedback,” says Cullen. “Sometimes when you 34 | Hospitality
have good produce, and the adage couldn’t be the only restaurants in the city with a kitchen garden. It’s a perk that provides endless
inspiration to Cullen, who spends plenty of time alongside resident Gardener Peter Hatfield. “I’m always talking to Pete about what I’d like to
plant and what’s growing,” says the chef. “It’s not big enough to sustain vegetables for the
entire restaurant, but we had 340kg of cherry tomatoes which we used during summer and
we grew bronze fennel for a carpaccio dish. We
The kitchen garden
Vegetable-
produced
centric
340kg
dishes are
of cherry
on the
tomatoes
rise at the
during summer
restaurant
grow a lot of herbs for the restaurant. And then it’s about getting my chefs out into the garden and teaching them what I know.”
Sharing knowledge and cultivating a
productive and motivating work environment is key to Cullen’s management style and is
something the team has widely appreciated
and responded to. In an industry plagued with staff shortages, Cullen is all too aware of the
challenges that come with running a kitchen,
which makes him all the more appreciative of
Chiswick
Cullen plans
turned
to launch an
10 this
off-the-grid
year
sustainable lodge in New Zealand
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PROFILE // Taylor Cullen Chiswick’s brigade. “I was lucky enough to be given
such a solid team; we have a lot of long-standing staff,” he says. “Chiswick is like a little family and people stick around, which is nice.”
Recognising hard work and promoting chefs is
part of workplace wellbeing, and the results speak
for themselves. “The team works really hard for me
because they see [the situation] as, ‘This person gave me a shot’, and it’s really important to nurture those people,” he says. “I’m more chill than chefs I have
worked for; I’m trying to create a team environment
without the hostility of old-school kitchens. In saying that, I learned so much in those kitchens, so I’m torn
about it because you’re in the trenches, but Chiswick
isn’t really like that. People turn up to work happy and I find you get the same results from sitting someone
down and having a chat about how they are and why they’re making mistakes rather than yelling at them during service.”
Cullen has recently made it to the seven-month mark of his tenure at Chiswick, with the itchy-footed chef committing to around two and a half years when
he accepted the role. “I’m hoping to go back to New
Zealand and open a lodge on a farm in the middle of nowhere,” he says. “It will have greenhouses, hives,
animals and provide 85 per cent of its own food — it’s a chef’s dream to do that.”
In the meantime, Cullen is riding the ebbs and flows
that come with running Chiswick, which celebrated
its 10th birthday last month with a throwback menu. “The staff told me all their favourite dishes over the
years, so I reworked them to suit my style of cooking,” he says. “I’m focused on Chiswick for the next year
and a half and then I’ll be working with people in New Zealand. It’s cool to know where you’re going and to have a goal.” ■ 36 | Hospitality
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FEATURE // Calzone
In the fold Deep-fried or baked, there’s a calzone for everyone. WORDS Annabelle Cloros
“You want those little charred bits and blisters because they’re the best parts.” – Tony Percuoco
CALZONE HAILS FROM Naples, Italy,
Calzone has been around since the
to eat on the go. While it’s not the most
for Italians to get rid of leftover
and was quizzically created as a food takeaway-friendly snack that comes to mind, calzone, which translates
to ‘pants legs’, provided a satisfying
solution to those who favoured using their hands instead of cutlery.
The half-moon pizza riff has
experienced various bouts of
popularity over the years, largely
ingredients. There are two types of
calzone: the larger, oven-baked version called al forno (from the oven) and
its smaller, crispy counterpart known as fritto. “The original is cooked in a wood-fired oven, while the fritto is deep-fried,” says Lucio De Falco.
The chef describes calzone al forno
thanks to screentime on The Sopranos,
as the “cousin of the Margherita pizza”
who appreciate something familiar,
to Neapolitan traditions at his two
but it’s been a must-order for those yet different at Italian restaurants.
Hospitality speaks to Tony Percuoco
from Ristorante Tartufo and Lucio De
Falco from Lucio’s Pizzeria about their experiences growing up with calzone, how it compares to its round sibling
and why the upscale pizza pocket will always have a place on their menus. 38 | Hospitality
18th century and presented a means
and makes his version according
Sydney restaurants. “People had the idea of taking a pizza, folding it in
half and cooking it,” he says. “It’s a
folded pizza base made using common ingredients such as ricotta and salami, which match so well together. The
fillings have changed over time, and
each region uses alternate ingredients.
difference between calzone and pizza comes
little bit.”
stretch it a lot to make sure the dough doesn’t
but there’s nothing wrong with adding a
Over in Brisbane, Chef Tony Percuoco has
been a long-time fan of calzone and grew up
down to stretching and structure. “We don’t become too thin,” explains the chef.
Ristorante Tartufo makes dough that
eating them in Naples. “I ate them all the time,
undergoes a slow fermentation process that
are only two places in Italy that specialise in
get to work. “We put the dough on a marble
so I had to put it on my menu,” he says. “There them: Naples and Puglia.”
Percuoco also sticks to the book when it comes
to making calzone al forno at Ristorante Tartufo. “We make the traditional one with ricotta, ham
or salami and white pepper,” says the chef. “On
top, it gets parmesan, cheese, tomato and basil.” The dough used to make calzone is no different to pizza’s and consists of just three ingredients: flour, yeast and water. De Falco opts for a Northern Italian flour and says the only
FEATURE // Calzone
The original also doesn’t have tomato sauce,
spans anywhere from 24–48 hours before chefs counter and push it down to make it as big
Chicory was one of
Ricotta
the original
is a
calzone fillings
must
ricotta, chicory or smoked meats, but the
The same
Calzone only
dough is
needs to be
ingredients are on top of each other, we
used to
cooked for
make pizza
two minutes
as a pizza,” says Percuoco. “You don’t want to overwork the dough.”
The fillings are layered in the middle of
the dough after it’s been stretched. It’s here where chefs can experiment with different ingredients such as scamorza, mozzarella, consensus is to keep it simple. “Once the
fold the dough over and make sure the two
June 2022 | 39
FEATURE // Calzone
“It’s a folded pizza base made using common ingredients such as ricotta and salami, which match so well together.” – Lucio De Falco
sides stick together,” says De Falco, who also
in anything with chilli, but you might mix the
generous amount of cracked black pepper.
make it lighter,” says the chef. “You can use
adds tomato sauce inside the calzone and a
Once a half-moon shape has been formed,
tomato sauce is spread on top of the calzone
and topped with mozzarella, parmesan, fresh basil leaves and olive oil before it’s placed in the oven. Time is of the essence in relation
to cooking calzone, especially when the oven is hitting high temperatures. “We bake it for around two minutes and look for a golden
ricotta with some white pepper and milk to
other ingredients such as fior di latte, but you
always have a ricotta base.” Tomato sauce only goes on the outside of Percuoco’s calzone. “We always put the tomato on the top; if it goes
inside, the dough sucks it in, and the dough
needs to have a light consistency. Parmesan,
basil leaves and extra-virgin olive oil follow.”
Chefs fold the dough and close it with their
brown colour that’s a little darker than pizza,”
fingers, pinching the top to ensure some air
you want to make sure it has an extra 30–40
too much” without losing any of the filling
says De Falco. “The filling is quite intense, and seconds baking time so the ingredients melt
together and the dough is light, fluffy and not undercooked. The edges can be very doughy.”
Percuoco errs on the classic side for fillings,
and ricotta is always involved. “We never put 40 | Hospitality
can escape and the calzone “doesn’t blow up during baking. “We cook it in a gas oven at
400 degrees Celsius for around two minutes,” says Percuoco. “You want those little
charred bits and blisters because they’re the best parts.”
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FEATURE // Calzone While some restaurants serve calzone with an accompanying
dipping sauce, both Lucio’s Pizzeria and Ristorante Tartufo
forgo any accompaniments. “I serve it as is,” says Percuoco. “I’m a traditionalist.”
Committing to a baked calzone isn’t something you can do halfheartedly, and as De Falco says, “To eat a calzone, you really
need to feel like one; it’s quite rich and intense.” But calzone
fritto provides the same experience in a bite-sized application.
Lucio’s Pizzeria hosts dedicated fritto nights once a month. “We have a mobile deep-fryer made from copper that we put in the middle of the floor,” says De Falco.
The same dough and ingredients are used to make the fritto,
but its flavour profile is very different thanks to the cooking
method. “We fry them in vegetable oil and they’re extremely popular,” says De Falco.
Percuoco is considering bringing back fried calzone after a
successful stint on the menu a few years ago. “The only reason I took them off is because they take a bit of work, but I might
put them on again as a special,” says the chef. “There were three pieces as an entrée.”
Comparable to agnolotti or ricotta in size, Percuoco’s calzone
fritto was stuffed with ricotta and left to prove in the fridge before
being fried in oil at 190 degrees Celsius. “You cook them until they turn golden and then you can add some fresh tomato and basil or just eat them as is,” says the chef.
Whether you’re starting a meal with calzone or making it a
meal, the staple is an example of an evergreen creation that
combines tradition with simplicity; a notion that never gets old in the culinary world. ■ 42 | Hospitality
www.compostco nnect.org
FEATURE // Biryani
Go with the
grain Biryani has been a staple in India for centuries, but getting the rice-based dish right requires experience and patience. WORDS Aristine Dobson
BIRYANI IS A mixed rice dish that is commonplace in India and has a lengthy history. Legend has it Mumtaz Mahal, the queen and wife of Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, requested chefs make a nutritionboosting meal of meat and rice for malnourished soldiers on the battlefield. The royal kitchen added a combination of aromatic
spices and saffron to the ingredients before firing it up in a large pot over an open flame.
Alternatively, some believe an early version of biryani was brought
over to India by Turk-Mongol conqueror Timur in 1398. Whichever story you believe, biryani is a staple across India and the Middle
East. While the original will never lose its iconic status, chefs can
approach biryani with a number of approaches from switching up rice varieties to experimenting with different proteins, vegetables and accompanying breads.
Hospitality talks to Atta’s Harry Dhanjal and Biji Dining Room’s
Harry Mangat about spice combinations, key cooking techniques and the importance of biryani within Indian cuisine.
The name biryani comes from the Persian word birian, which
translates to ‘fried before cooking’ and birinj, which means ‘rice’. Head Chef and Owner of Atta Harry Dhanjal believes it is the most plausible point of origin. “If you go to any Iranian restaurant, biryani is one of the dishes that shines on the menu,” says the Melbourne-based chef. 44 | Hospitality
FEATURE // Biryani
“Biryani came to India a few centuries back and
that good when you make it in small batches; it
ruled India for thousands of years.”
to cook for hours so each grain of rice has flavour.”
was influenced by Mughals who came in and Although biryani is not technically from
needs to be for 100 people,” says Mangat. “It needs
India, the dish is a firm favourite and a staple at
Different regions in India have created their own
it’s pretty much a given you find biryani,” says
own unique markers and varying spice levels.
celebratory events. “If you go to any wedding, Dhanjal. “It’s such an everyday thing; it’s not
considered a luxury or a once-in-a-while dish.” Restaurants in parts of India focus on
perfecting the dish, with families passing
down recipes that have been preserved over
generations. “If you go to cities like Hyderabad and Lucknow, there’s a biryani shop on every corner run by people who have had their
restaurants for 300 to 400 years,” says Harry Mangat from Biji Dining Room. “It’s not like
adaptations of biryani over time, each with their “There are two dominating biryani flavours: Lucknowi biryani comes from the northern
side of India and Hyderabadi biryani is from
the south of India,” says Dhanjal. “Hyderabadi
biryani is spicier and more pungent because it’s got a lot of chilli in it. It’s basically how South Indian food normally is anyways. Lucknowi
biryani has more dried fruit, a lot of saffron and yoghurt; it’s very aromatic.”
At Atta, Dhanjal makes biryani that is halfway
they’ve just been cooking biriyani for a couple
between the two and maintains a happy
10 years [because] their grandfather or great
hybrid way where we are respecting Australian
of years; they’ve been cooking it for the last grandfather started making it.”
Biryani is typically prepared in large quantities
over a long period of time. “I feel it doesn’t taste
medium when it comes to spice. “We’ve gone a
palates,” he says. “Not making it too spicy, which is more towards the Lucknowi biryani, but also not too sweet at the same time.”
June 2022 | 45
FEATURE // Biryani
“I definitely like it milder because you can taste everything and the flavour of the basmati rice.” – Harry Mangat
Mangat doesn’t often make traditional biryani
at his Melbourne restaurant, preferring to cook the dish at home. But the chef has created a contemporary dish that takes cues from the
flavours of biryani. “I made a biryani rice cake
with slow-cooked lamb neck served with raita on the side, pickled daikon and fermented chillies,”
because “it’s long, light and has less starchiness to it”, says the chef. “Basmati by nature is not a
sticky rice; you can count the number of grains. But it has enough starchiness to bind whatever meat you’re using.”
The rice is cooked 70 to 80 per cent of the
says the chef. “The flavours of biryani are in the
way before it’s taken off the heat. “It has to be
it was still nice and gooey inside.”
won’t get a fluffy biryani.”
rice cake, which I pan fried to make it crispy, but
al dente,” says Mangat, “if you overcook it, you
Biryani can be cooked one of two ways: pakki
The overall profile of biryani is determined by the
ingredients while pakki is made from pre-
garam masala in-house, which is found in a range
or kacchi. Kacchi biryani is cooked from raw
cooked and parboiled ingredients. “When you’re running a restaurant, pakki is easy to deliver,” says Dhanjal. “Does it make a big difference
taste-wise? Personally, I don’t think so; it’s just a method of cooking and it’s what we do.”
Basmati rice is parboiled and chosen for its
durability during the cooking process. Dhanjal 46 | Hospitality
opts for India Gate Premium basmati rice
spice combinations used in the dish. Atta makes of dishes at the restaurant. “Garam masala is
made up of spices that are pungent and those that are aromatic with sweeter notes,” says Dhanjal.
“There’s green cardamom and black cardamom;
green is sweeter and black is on the pungent side.
Then you’ve got cloves, white pepper, black pepper and dehydrated flowers for aroma.”
www.peerles sfoodservice .c
om.au
FEATURE // Biryani Dhanjal also adds fresh green and red chillis
using a ratio of 80 per cent green to 20 per cent red. Kashmiri chilli is another addition that
complements the rest of the spices. “Kashmiri chilli
Dhanjal adds ghee
Atta uses
to create
paneer for the
a level
vegetarian
of fat
biryani
has a tendency of oozing out a red colour, which makes the dish more colourful,” says Dhanjal.
Mellow spices can also be incorporated to
a common
recommends
addition to
Maharajah
biryani
basmati rice
48 | Hospitality
make a spice mix and rub that into the meat
with a bit of yoghurt and usually marinate it
overnight,” says Mangat. “I then cook the meat, which adds a lot of flavour.”
Traditionally, biryani is cooked in a large pot
blends cinnamon, cardamom, cumin, coriander,
are cooked on a stovetop or in an oven. The
what he refers to as “warm spices”. The chef
together. “I definitely like it milder because Mangat
halfway before they are added to the pot. “I
create a sweeter flavour, with Mangat using
black pepper, white pepper and Kashmiri chilli Dried fruit is
and vegetables, are cooked a little more than
you can taste everything and the flavour of the
basmati rice,” he says. “For me, spices are more
to complement a dish, meat or vegetable; it’s not about overpowering anything.”
The remaining ingredients, such as proteins
over hot coals, but most dishes made in a kitchen rice, meat, spices and toppings are all arranged in layers. “I start with a bit of meat and then
rice because it’ll stick at the bottom and give off
moisture,” says Mangat. “Then I add fried onions, vegetables and keep [building] layers, sprinkling a bit of water on each. I cook it on a really low heat, leaving it for 20 minutes or so.”
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FEATURE // Biryani
Atta’s chicken biryani Ingredients
Transfer to another bowl.
· Basmati rice
5. Take a cooking pot and
· Chicken Maryland fillets
start with a layer of chicken
· Greek yoghurt
and top with chopped
· Whole garam masala
coriander, mint, lemon juice,
· Ground garam masala
olive oil and fried onions.
· Turmeric and salt · Fresh mint and coriander · Saffron · Ginger and garlic · Lemon juice · Green chillies · Fried onions · Vegetable oil and ghee
“It’s such an everyday thing; it’s
normal curry is very small because the whole dish can’t be sloppy,” says the chef. “We reduce the curry and then we add the rice, saffron and dried fruit and mix it up in the pan.”
The restaurant uses a cooking technique called dum which is an
abbreviation for the Persian word dumpukht, meaning ‘air cooked’.
“The opening at the top of the clay pot is sealed by naan dough and the whole thing goes into the tandoor oven,” says Dhanjal, who lets
onions, lemon juice, saffron water and ghee.
· Warm water
tightly over it. Cook on a slow
· Carom seeds
flame for half an hour.
· Sugar
Bread mix method
Biryani method
mixture. “The ratio of onion and tomato gravy compared to a
top with remaining fried
aluminium foil and fit the lid
once-in-a-while dish.” – Harry Dhanjal
cooking all the ingredients in a pan with a tomato and onion
7. Layer remaining rice and
· Egg
· Butter
Smaller portions mean layering isn’t necessary, with Dhanjal
chicken layer again.
8. Cover the pot with
· Milk
serves two people, with each clay pot making 500–600 grams.
chicken and repeat the
· Plain flour
not considered a luxury or a
Cooking times vary depending on portion size. Atta’s biryani
6. Spread the rice over the
1. Finely slice onions and fry until crisp and light golden brown. 2. Combine chicken with ground garam masala, saffron, Greek yoghurt, salt and chopped green chillies. Marinate for four to five hours. 3. Rinse basmati rice until clear. Soak rice in warm water
1. Combine plain flour, carom seeds, sugar, milk, egg and warm water in a bowl and knead well until the dough is soft. Rest at room temperature for two to three hours and form dough balls. 2. Use a rolling pin to roll the dough balls into a circle (not too thin and even on all sides). 3. Take small oven-friendly bowls and transfer the rice and chicken.
for half an hour. Cook rice
4. Cover the bowl with the
until 70 to 80 per cent done
bread, pressing down the
and drain. Rest rice for at
corners against the bowl.
least half an hour.
5. Brush the bread with egg
There are many different avenues to take when it comes to making
4. Transfer the chicken with
and butter and bake in the
biryani, with chefs encouraged to test out a raft of ingredients.
the marinade into a pot and
oven at 180 degrees Celsius
“You can add anything; it doesn’t have to be meat, it can just be
cook until 80 per cent of the
for five minutes.
potatoes,” says Mangat. “I heard somewhere that India is a country
way until the marinade and
6. Serve biryani with fresh
of countries and you find new things in every place. It’s amazing
masala is golden brown.
lemon and Greek yoghurt.
each pot cook for five to seven minutes. “The rice gets steamed, but the steam can’t escape, so it cooks the chicken or the lamb so they have bite.”
one location has so many different variations of biryani.” ■ 50 | Hospitality
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FEATURE // Babka
Babka Make it, twist it, bake it.
WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Simon Schluter and Kimmy Liew
BABKA REPRESENTS THE best of both worlds:
homemade baked good mums or grandmas
baked good is a diminutive of the word baba,
“It’s a slash between a brioche-style bread and a
bread and cake. The braided and often sweet (grandmother) and is of immense cultural
significance within Jewish communities. Babka
would make alongside challah,” says Azoulay.
cake, so you could describe it as a bread cake.” Azoulay initially began making babka for
has been around for more than 200 years and
himself during lockdown before friends started
1950s when European-centric bakeries in the
long for word to spread and for Babka Boi to
largely remained under the radar until the
US began making them. It led to an evolution
of sorts, which saw babka go from byproduct to main character.
Early forms of babka were made from leftover
challah dough that was rolled up and filled with jam or cinnamon. But modern takes have seen chefs and bakers dial up the butter, go heavy
on the Nutella and add textural contrast with crumbles and streusels.
Avi Azoulay says he didn’t choose babka, it
chose him, with the fateful match leading to
the creation of online business Babka Boi. The chef defines what babka is, charts the labour-
intensive process it necessitates and reveals why all chefs have a love–hate relationship with it.
asking for their own loaves to try. It didn’t take launch to the public. “I started getting noticed by some people in the food world and all of a
sudden everyone wanted babka, so I thought I
may as well go with it,” says the chef. “I wanted to create my own version of a good babka and put it out into the world.”
Babka Boi is still in business, with Azoulay
balancing making babka with other culinary
endeavors. The chef dedicates three days a week
to the process thanks to the considerable amount of time required for each step of the babka-
making journey. “It doesn’t really matter if you’re making five or 20 babkas,” he says. “I’ll make
the dough on Wednesday, bake on Thursday and deliver on Friday.”
Avi Azoulay grew up in Israel where babka
It took around six test runs for Azoulay to find
it’s nostalgic,” says the former Miznon chef.
of ingredients and measurements from many
was a staple on Shabbat morning. “For me,
“It’s a special day, so you don’t have a normal breakfast; you have coffee and cake in the
morning.” Babka is made from the same dough as a lot of other things and was traditionally
rolled out and filled with cinnamon sugar or
jam. “It didn’t have any butter and was just a 52 | Hospitality
the right babka recipe, which is a combination sources. The chef says a quality babka is
determined by several factors that span from
adequate proving to temperature management. “It took me some time before I found the
right texture and crumb I was looking for that reminded me of my time living in Israel,” he
FEATURE // Babka
June 2022 | 53
FEATURE // Babka
“When you leave it in the fridge, it slows down the rising process, which gives the dough better flavour and makes rolling easier.” – Avi Azoulay says. “I wanted lots of layers and for it to be dense and light at the same time.”
Babka dough is relatively simple and is made
from flour, eggs, salt, butter, sugar, water, salt and yeast. Azoulay preferences plain flour over bread flour for its softness and ability to create a cakelike texture. The chef combines the ingredients
with vanilla and orange or lemon zest, but holds back on the butter at first. “It all goes into the
mixer and gets kneaded for 10–20 minutes until you get a nice, smooth, elastic dough,” says the
chef. “You let it rest for 10 minutes and then I add the butter in cube by cube until it’s incorporated.” The dough is then put into containers and left
to undergo a 24-hour cold rise in the fridge. “It
has to be fermented between the first and second
stages of rising,” says Azoulay. “Some people don’t let it go as long, and it ends up being dense and a
bit raw. There’s a fine line between it being underor overproved, so you have to be careful. When
you leave it in the fridge, it slows down the rising
process, which gives the dough better flavour and makes rolling easier.”
Once the dough has doubled in size, Azoulay portions it into 500g pieces and rolls it into
a rectangle before the filling is added. Babka
Boi’s signature is chocolate hazelnut which sees
Nutella teamed with dark chocolate chips, roasted hazelnuts and a house brown butter chocolate
paste. Other flavour options cover apple cinnamon and cinnamon streusel, but restraint is key no
matter the interior. “If there’s too much filling, the
dough can’t handle the weight and it can collapse,” says Azoulay. “By the time the filling goes in, it weighs around 900g.” 54 | Hospitality
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FEATURE // Babka
The dough is then rolled into a long cylinder and cut
down the middle before it’s braided. “I like to twist the
dough and find that you can see the layers from the top by cutting it open,” says Azoulay, who goes on to place the babka in a baking tin to prove again. “The second
rise can take anywhere between one and a half to three hours,” says Azoulay. “I like to put it in the oven with
a pot of steaming water at the bottom. You’re looking
for it to grow in size by at least one-third, but not more than half; you want it to be quite puffy and pillowy.”
Baking is one of the core pressure points of making
babka, with the bread cake often appearing to be fully cooked before it actually is. Time and temperature varies according to what’s inside, with Azoulay
starting the chocolate babka at 180 degrees Celsius
before dropping it down to 160. “The chocolate one gets dark quite quickly and it looks done within 20 minutes,” says the chef. “But it can take between 30–40 minutes before it’s baked through. I like a
crispy top and for it to be quite dark, so it has contrast when you take it out of the tin.”
After the babka comes out of the oven, it gets hit
with an extra boost of sweetness and any additions such as praline, crumb or streusel. “They also get
doused in sugar syrup to seal in the moisture, which provides a nice shine.”
Azoulay’s babkas are cooked in single-use baking
tins, with the loaves requiring a number of hours
to completely cool down. “They need around four
hours to fully cool,” says the chef. “I leave them in the tins because babkas can unravel if they’re not cooked properly.” Azoulay used Chocolate
Gippsland
hazelnut is
Jersey’s
Babka Boi’s
butter for a
OG flavour
collaboration
The last (and best) part of making babka is eating it. Azoulay offers two suggestions that both start with
cutting a thick slice around 1–2cm in size. “The first is
putting it in the microwave for 5–10 seconds to soften up the butter and the chocolate, which brings the
flavours to the front,” he says. “You can serve it with
some ice cream or cream. The second is frying it with butter like French toast and cooking it on both sides
until it caramelises and then finishing with some sea The babka
You can order
undergoes
loaves on
two proving
sessions
@babka_boi
salt on top.”
The mammoth loaves, which almost tip 1kg in size,
also have a long shelf life. “They can last up to five
days on the bench if wrapped properly,” says Azoulay. “You can also freeze them.”
Azoulay is part of a small group of people who focus
on making babka in Australia, with many chefs trying their hand at the baked good only to realise just how
laborious it is. “Everyone has a love–hate relationship with babka,” he says. “One day it works out perfect,
and the next it’s different. It’s very fickle and you need
to get every step right along the way. But nothing beats the feeling when you make a good one.” ■ 56 | Hospitality
FEATURE // Pub restaurants
58 | Hospitality
FEATURE // Pub restaurants
Upping the ante Publicans and chefs are rewriting a new chapter for pub restaurants. WORDS Aristine Dobson PHOTOGRAPHY Nikki To; James Adams and Jessie Ann for The Bob Hawke Beer & Leisure Centre
A TYPICAL PUB menu covers all the classics from chicken
parmi to burgers, and of course, steak night. The staple dishes are straightforward, unfussy and have been treasured by
the Australian public for years. But things began to change
back in 1991 when the term gastropub was coined in the UK,
referencing a venue that offered high-quality food a step above your average schnitzel and chips.
Pubs and breweries in Australia have adapted the concept,
with venues across the country putting their own spin on
elevated pub grub that draws customers in as much as their booze offerings. Hospitality talks to the Waterloo Inn’s Zac
Green and The Bob Hawke Beer & Leisure Centre’s Nathan
Lennon and Nicholas Wong about creating unique experiences that appeal to a wide market.
Head Chef Zac Green teamed up with his wife and business partner Alex Sumner last year to give the Waterloo Inn a
new start. At first glance, it looked like a textbook pub, but the pair saw the potential to create a casual drinking and
dining destination in Swansea, Tasmania. “It was meticulously maintained, but had no customers,” says Green. “There was a
beautiful pool table, original bingo-style leather chairs, terrible June 2022 | 59
FEATURE // Pub restaurants
artworks and curtains and an original menu board. It was a weird prospect to take it over and we had no real expectations, but then something clicked for the general clientele.”
Customers were no doubt intrigued by the menu, which is
described as “unpretentious dining” and “food you want to eat
without being tripped up too much”. Patrons rarely see the same dish twice, and Green wouldn’t have it any other way. “Our best
menus are designed at the eleventh hour,” he says. “A dish or two
will change depending on what we run out of and whether I’ve got something new to move on to.”
Seasonality plays a big role in Green’s approach to cooking.
For the most part, ingredients are sourced from local Tasmanian
producers. “I generally try to stick to Tasmanian produce,” says the chef. “I’m definitely inspired by the seasons and what is available locally as well as what’s growing in my own garden.”
An example is a dish that sees eggs from Green’s chickens
topped with a leek vinaigrette. “The leaks were donated from a friend who had them growing amongst her asparagus and she treated them as weeds,” says the chef.
The beer battered oysters have also had their time in the
spotlight, with the dish inspired by other gastropubs. “I used to
go to a bar in Melbourne called The Last Jar,” explains Green. “It’s an Irish pub and the food was amazing. There would always be
something like rabbit or pork trotters and you could get Guinnessfried battered oysters. At some point, I thought it’d be good to do a battered oyster and things progressed from there.”
Gastropubs are ever-present in Sydney, but The Lucky Prawn at The Bob Hawke Beer & Leisure Centre in Marrickville has
turned the Euro-centric concept on its head. Hawke’s Brewing Co.
opened a restaurant and pub earlier this year with the intention of
creating a multifaceted experience for visitors. “As a beer company, a sense of home is incredibly important,” says Co-Founder Nathan Lennon. “Essentially, it’s a place to not only brew beer, but where people can come and drink it straight from the source.”
In collaboration with business partner David Gibson, Lennon
brainstormed food concepts that would work with the venue.
“We were initially thinking food trucks like every other brewery,” he says, “but when you consider 200 to 300 people being in the
“We are honest in our approach to this style of food, simply because we love eating it so much ourselves.” – Nicholas Wong
venue, food trucks start to become challenging [when it comes to] service. What story does that allow you to tell apart from
community engagement? It made us reconsider and take control of our food and [create] a really clear narrative.”
Soon after, the pair came up with an idea that would align with
the Hawke’s brand — a Chinese bistro. “It didn’t take David and I long to land on a regional Chinese Australian bistro offering
because it felt incredibly authentic to the 1980s, which is what
we are representing,” says Lennon. “It’s super nostalgic and felt
almost as Australian as anything else we could think of in terms of our own experiences growing up.”
The venue brought on Nicholas Wong (ex-Cho Cho San and
CicciaBella) as head chef of The Lucky Prawn. The menu is
reminiscent of what you would find at a Chinese bistro in a local
bowling club and includes dishes such as prawn toast, sang choy bao, wontons and sweet and sour pork. “A good variety of menu 60 | Hospitality
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FEATURE // Pub restaurants items balance light and fresh ingredients with
ours, so we’re happy to showcase their wines.
in our approach to this style of food, simply
the area just as the food is.”
a hint of nostalgia,” says Wong. “We are honest because we love eating it so much ourselves.” Wong sticks to Cantonese dishes when
it comes to the menu, with the restaurant sourcing select ingredients from local
businesses in Marrickville. “We get the bread for the prawn toast from across the road,”
says the chef. “The dumplings are made by Lai Shing Dim Sum Factory (which is only 200m
from the Leisure Centre); our fermented fried bread used to mop up the XO pippi sauce is
We try and tie the whole [list] into being local to
Beer is of course the drink of choice at Hawke’s, and in the spirit of the late Prime Minister Bob Hawke himself, nothing goes better with beer than a Chinese meal. “Chinese food matches
really well with beer,” says Lennon. “Dishes like hot numbing chicken wings get your mouth
watering because it’s a mix of saltiness and spice, which makes you want to grab a lager on tap.” Many people go to a brewery taproom for
a by-product of Brickfields next door and our
the sole purpose of drinking beer, but Hawke’s
top-notch vegetables.”
Prawn. “Your expectation when you create a
chefs frequent neighbouring Asian grocers for
Besides the food, the main drawcard of a pub is
its beverage line up. At the Waterloo Inn, natural wines complement the culinary approach.
“Natural wines are expressions of particular
seasons, grapes, vineyards and winemakers that
capture a time and a place,” says Green. “They’re
provides the experience and more at The Lucky taproom attached to a brewery is that everyone will go there because they’re a beer lover who wants to taste the beers on tap,” says Lennon. “But we’ve found a really nice mix of patrons
who are coming in on the back of wanting to sit down for a Chinese meal at The Lucky Prawn.”
not generic products, and I feel like they match
Share plates surpassed being a trend in
not a long time.”
be said for the pub scene. The Waterloo Inn
the food, which is generally on for a short time, The wine list constantly evolves and
demonstrates the best makers in the state and
beyond. “We have a selection of local wines on
and a lot of them are from the East Coast,” says Green. “Some of them are from good friends of 62 | Hospitality
restaurants many years ago, and the same can and The Lucky Prawn both encourage diners
to split dishes and believe it fosters a sense of togetherness among patrons. “There’s a lot of
people that aren’t familiar with the concept of
sharing in this area,” says Green. “It’s amazing
“I’m definitely inspired by the seasons and what is available locally as well as what’s growing in my own garden.” – Zac Green
www.gffoodservice.com.
au
FEATURE // Pub restaurants
“It didn’t take … long to land on a regional Chinese Australian bistro offering because it felt incredibly authentic to the 1980s, which is what we are representing.” – Nathan Lennon how the idea has been prominent in Sydney
The expectations of pub restaurants have
really cut through here. I think the most heart-
locals the chance to try something new each
and Melbourne for a long time, but it hasn’t The Waterloo
40 per cent of
Inn have
vegetables at
run a Sunday
the Waterloo
roast set
Inn come from
menu
South Arm
warming thing I see is when people who have
come in once before get their heads around the concept of sharing food. And when they come in again, they start repeating things I said to them the first time around such as,
‘The menu changes’; ‘It’s seasonal’ and ‘It’s a one-chef kitchen’.”
When it comes to menu design, share
plates not only contribute to a table’s dining XO pippies
The word
and fermented
pub is
fried bread
short for
is $49 at The
public house
Lucky Prawn
time they come in to dine. “You’ve [still] got
your bread-and-butter Tasmanians who do a
pint and a parmi, but that’s not what we do and that’s okay because there’s another pub down the road that does exactly that,” says Green.
“But then there’s the other group of people who
retired in Swansea and want something different and interesting.”
Pub environments elicit a sense of familiarity,
experience, but to the overall vibe of a venue.
which is what Hawke’s leans into with ease.
parmi and eat it yourself,” says Lennon. “We like
out on the other side of the pandemic,” says
“When you go to traditional pubs, you get a
share plates because they’re connected to group
fun. It’s great to come in with a group of friends or family and order 10 things off the menu to share. I think, inherently, that’s what Chinese cuisine is all about.”
64 | Hospitality
changed for good, with the Waterloo Inn giving
“People want to be out in groups more coming Lennon. “It’s about creating an experience that facilitates people getting back out there with
friends. We give them a pub-style experience, but do it in our own way with our own storytelling.” ■
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WOMEN IN LIQUOR // Ciara Doran
Rising to the
top
Ciara Doran on creating experiencedriven venues and changing the industry from the inside out.
CIARA DORAN IS the co-owner of
events, which led a lightbulb moment
Sydney and a passionate force in the
the sector. “I never really thought it
WORDS Brydie Allen PHOTOGRAPHY Steven Woodburn
to go into hospitality when she was
The Doss House and Frank Mac’s in local bar scene. Doran didn’t plan
growing up in Ireland and actually
was possible for it to be a career, but I loved doing it,” she says.
After four years in the Greek
studied social science at university.
Islands, Doran moved to Australia to
around people and I liked helping
venue of her own one day. Eight years
“What I knew was that I loved being people,” she says.
Doran’s first taste of the industry
was during a stint working for an
events company in the Greek Islands. The business would fly in DJs from around the world and host dance 66 | Hospitality
for Doran, who instantly clicked with
work in events and hoped to open a later, Doran had to decide whether
she was going to become a business owner in Australia or Ireland.
The pivotal decision came about
after Doran and her business partner came across what would become
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WOMEN IN LIQUOR // Ciara Doran
The Doss House. The pair built the concept of the bar around
the The Rocks site, moving ahead with the concept despite its many challenges — the building is heritage listed and didn’t
have a liquor licence at the time. “I wanted to throw myself into
something and really give it my all and see the results at the end,” says Doran. “We learned a hell of a lot during the process, and
I was right in following that gut feeling. [I knew it even more]
when we started to get positive feedback from customers and The Doss House started to become successful.”
As a self-described “sucker for punishment”, Doran opened
Frank Mac’s just a couple of doors down from The Doss House.
The venue is driven by Doran’s interest in identifying and building a concept, which she says has become a passion. So when the
space for Frank Mac’s came up, it was the perfect opportunity to
launch a gin-centric venue that complemented The Doss House’s whisky focus.
Doran’s idea of what hospitality should offer is driven by her Irish roots where pubs and bars are community spaces. It’s a notion Doran has replicated at The Doss House and Frank Mac’s. “I
wanted to bring the heart back into hospitality — that feeling of coming home,” she says.
Community is something Doran has noticed in the industry itself,
which she says has always felt inclusive and supportive, even for
someone who was new to the local bar scene when she opened The Doss House. The connection between different venues and workers in Sydney is something that has stood out for Doran, especially during the pandemic. “I don’t think there’s a whole lot of other
industries that have that camaraderie,” she says. “There is a definite community feel in the hospitality industry in Sydney. You can always depend on people from other bars.”
Building a community of likeminded people has been a key
element for Doran to get right on her journey as a bar owner. “I think the biggest challenge is surrounding yourself with a team that has the same vision,” she says. “When you have that, you
should count yourself as the luckiest person in the world. If you’re all on the same page, everything will flow really well.”
During her time running The Doss House and Frank Mac’s, Doran
has seen and experienced some common challenges women in the industry are faced with. “I feel as though women have to work a bit harder to be taken seriously,” she says.
Many of the examples Doran mentions revolve around the
often unconscious bias of patrons assuming she (or other female
bartenders) don’t have the same level of education about whisky as a male counterpart, with the spirit still stereotyped as a man’s drink. “If a group of men are asking about a particular whisky
or they’re looking for some options, I think a female bartender has to display their knowledge a little bit more,” says Doran. “Unfortunately, the need to work harder is always there for
them because sometimes they’re not taken as seriously as men, especially in specialty areas. It’s still a massive challenge we’re all facing.”
One way bias can occur is through talking down to female
bartenders and using words such as ‘darling’ and ‘sweetie’ or 68 | Hospitality
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WOMEN IN LIQUOR // Ciara Doran
“This is the time to bring awareness to the challenges females experience in their industries. It comes down to us speaking up and men listening.” – Ciara Doran is the first thing,” she says. “I genuinely
believe that if a man has an unconscious bias, it’s not often meant in a disrespectful way. If the industry can bring awareness to it, first
and foremost, it lets men ask themselves, ‘Do
I do that?’ And then they become conscious of [their bias].”
It can even be something such as making an
assumption that a female staff member can’t
or won’t bring the bins in. “It’s about holding each other accountable,” says Doran. “It
doesn’t necessarily need to have an aggressive approach to it. I think people just have to
be educated on [their actions], so they will
think twice next time. This is the time to bring
awareness to the challenges females experience speaking up and men listening.”
but Doran is concerned the interactions happen
in her footsteps, Doran says it’s important to
whisky. Of course, it doesn’t happen all the time, more to female staff than male workers. Another bias Doran has personally
experienced is people assuming she isn’t in
charge and must be the wife of the manager or the owner. “I’ve often handled scenarios where customers have asked if they can speak to my
manager, and when I’ve said I am the manager
and the licensee, they laugh or scoff at me,” she
says. “It’s unbelievable because men and women
have that attitude, which is quite confronting for me. It doesn’t shock me anymore, but it used to. You have to work that little bit harder to even
gain the respect of your patrons and customers.” Doran is calling for the industry to speak out
and educate both staff and patrons. “Awareness 70 | Hospitality
in their industries. It comes down to us
asking if a bartender knows anything about
In terms of advice for women looking to follow
surround yourself with the right people who will
support you and foster growth. Being open about goals and working out a plan to meet them is
also important. “A lot of people, but especially
women, say, ‘I want to be the general manager one day’ or ‘I want to open my own bar’,” says
Doran. “Find your voice — I love somebody with ambition because you’re going to put more time
into training them and bringing them up through the ranks because they’re committed. As women, we keep our thoughts and goals to ourselves a little bit instead of speaking up to [the team] you’re working with.” ■
This story was originally published as part of
The Shout’s Industry Women Spotlight series.
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5 MINUTES WITH ... // Shirley Yeung
Shirley Yeung The venue manager of Perth’s Foxtrot Unicorn on her bartending career and co-founding a not-for-profit group.
I’VE ONLY BEEN behind the bar for five or six
Unfortunately, gender plays a role in the
years now, but I worked in every other position
industry. As a woman behind the bar, I’ve
being a barista and a kitchenhand. Moving on to
before you say anything to a customer. It kind of
in the industry before from waiting tables to
the next challenge was a natural progression. When I stepped behind the bar, it [created]
passion and foresight; there was so much more to
learned you get judged and misinterpreted
boosted my confidence to do better, learn more and expand my knowledge.
Mix Haus was founded by myself, Pippa
learn and constant challenges. I realised there was a
Canavan from Mechanics Institute and Reid
Australia that made me feel welcome and at home.
what we wanted from the industry. Our core
bigger community and amazing support in Western Community plays a big role in shaping who
you are, and because the community in Perth is
so small and tightknit, it allowed me to open up. I was part of the launch team at Foxtrot
Unicorn. There were four or five of us at the
start, and everyone else above me left to move
Günter. It formed [after] a conversation about mission is to connect and provide support for women and those who identify as female or
non-binary in the industry. Hosting safe spaces for them was important because we felt it was one of the main things lacking in the sector.
We provide free training and workshops, run
on to other projects, so I took on the role of bar
collaborations and host long-table dinners and
team as the business grew, so we expanded and
invite prominent females in our industry to
manager. We needed to add more people to the I became venue manager.
There’s a very big difference between
becoming a bartender and learning how to make
lunches that are open to the public. We also
speak on panels and have open conversations where they share their journeys.
We wanted to be able to have events where we
drinks to being on the floor and waiting tables.
could bring in fresh faces who can have a little
value to my life is confidence and realising that
we want. We want them to have a real passion
The biggest lesson that has added so much
my team was behind me if I made a mistake or something happened. 74 | Hospitality
glimpse of our community, what we do and what for the industry. ■
When I stepped behind the bar, it [created] so much passion and foresight.
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