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NO.783 MAY 2022
TARTARE • CRÈME CARAMEL • JAPANESE KNIVES • DYLAN CASHMAN
CONTENTS // May
Contents MAY 2022
26
Regulars 8 // IN FOCUS Civico 47 has a fresh outlook when it comes to local dining. 12 // NEWS The latest openings, books, events and more. 14 // PRODUCE Thai basil is a staple ingredient across South-East Asia. 16 // COLUMN Food and travel writer Sylvie Bigar on her French culinary journey. 20 // BEST PRACTICE A sustainable business requires a holistic approach.
4 | Hospitality
56
22 // BAR CART Thirst quenchers, slow sippers and all things beverage related. 26 // DRINKS Australia’s first soju brand: Gyopo. 30 // PROFILE Chef Dylan Cashman on opening The Blue Door and collaborating with local farmers.
70
Features 40 // KNIVES Discover the difference of Japanese knives. 50 // SAGANAKI The mezze dish starts with choosing the right type of cheese.
78 // EQUIPMENT An oyster knife makes shucking a breeze.
56 // TARTARE Steak tartare is the original, but chefs are diversifying when it comes to proteins.
80 // 5 MINUTES WITH … Monopole’s Head Sommelier Zoe Brunton.
62 // CRÈME CARAMEL The self-saucing dessert is a global staple. 70 // WOMEN IN LIQUOR A profile series on the women shaking up the industry.
Is Your Council Composting? Tackle Climate Change By Composting
Compost Connect has joined forces with compostable packaging supplier BioPak and has released brand new data detailing what types of residential composting is offered across Australia.
Head to our website to find out if your council is composting and what they accept in your green/ FOGO bin. If your council is not composting, sign our petition to let them know it’s important to you. We can all make a difference and reduce our carbon emissions by composting organic waste and compostable packaging.
compostconnect.org
EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello
Social
Keep up with the Hospitality team
ALL ON THE TABLE Enmore’s Cairo Takeaway delivers variety with a plate of pickles, dips, kofta and more. @aristinedob
A word from the editor
BLINK AND YOU’LL MISS IT Supernormal’s Bar Paradox pop-up combined cocktails with a stellar snacks menu. @hospitalitymagazine
IF YOU HAPPEN to be reading this at the
exclusively) with New South Wales ingredients
Hospitality Leaders Summit — welcome!
at his Surry Hills restaurant The Blue Door.
And if it’s before 23 May, tickets are still on
We also chart the story behind Australia’s
sale. Hospitality is thrilled to host the event
first soju distillery Gyopo, which is run by
for the first time since 2019. I hope you enjoy
three siblings who are changing the liquor
coming together with industry peers once
landscape for good.
again and find the day to be a positive learning experience.
There are also features on crème caramel, saganaki and what makes Japanese knives
Our May issue has been supersized and
some of the most essential tools in the kitchen.
sees Ken Burgin pen a piece on building a sustainable business, a look at one of my
Until next time,
favourite herbs — Thai basil — and a profile
Annabelle Cloros
on Dylan Cashman, who is working (almost
Editor
LONG LUNCH Highly recommend the bug pasta at the ultra-luxe Ursula’s in Paddington. @annabellecloros
Follow us @hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine
PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au JOURNALIST Aristine Dobson adobson@intermedia.com.au
ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au GROUP ART DIRECTOR – LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au
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6 | Hospitality
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IN FOCUS // Civico 47
Local
approach Civico 47 is ushering in a new era for an iconic Sydney dining destination. WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Steven Woodburn
IT’S NOT EASY being the new kid on the
house number in Italian,” says Matteo
And it involves taking a pared-
into the shoes of a legend. Lucio’s Italian
like a house, and we wanted to create an
culinary direction. “We’re trying to do
block, especially when you’re stepping
Restaurant in Sydney’s Paddington operated for close to 40 years before it bowed out
of the dining scene, with many wondering what would open in its place. The answer
is Civico 47, an Italian eatery that’s taking a casual yet refined approach to local dining. Hospitality speaks to Executive Chef
Matteo Zamboni about designing a menu
that takes an umbrella approach to Italian cookery and why a pasta dish with bok choy is stirring up plenty of interest.
They say it’s all in the name, and Civico 47 is not only a nod to the restaurant’s location on 47 Windsor Street, but the
concept’s overall ethos, too. “Civico means 8 | Hospitality
Zamboni. “The building looks so much
experience where people feel like they are going to a friend’s place to have simple and beautiful food.”
The Italian-born executive chef is
leading the kitchen after time at Michelinstar restaurants in his home country and Japan as well as stints at Ormeggio, Pilu and Jonah’s in Sydney. Civico’s General
Manager Andrew Donaghy reached out
to Zamboni with the opportunity to take on the role. “I worked with the general manager before and I knew the people
who were opening the restaurant,” says
back approach when it comes to the
uncomplicated food that is refined with a level of sophistication, but instead of
combinations of flavours or techniques, we’re putting attention to detail into
presentation and even the crockery, which was carefully selected as we wanted to
keep the food very simple,” says Zamboni. “[Simplicity] is what people enjoy most, especially during a time where we’re
coming out of the pandemic. We want
guests to come in, enjoy and forget about what’s happening outside.”
Civico’s menu is split into starters/
the chef. “We are doing Italian food, but
snacks, entrées, pastas, mains, sides and
did; we are humbly going our own way.”
Northern and Southern Italian traditions.
we don’t want to replicate what Lucio’s
desserts, with dishes influenced by both
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IN FOCUS // Civico 47 “It’s more general; there’s no particular region we follow,” says
Zamboni. “We aren’t necessarily inspired by tradition; we just look at the dishes we like.”
The chef recommends beginning a meal at Civico with house
focaccia served with a generous glug of extra-virgin olive oil plus eggplant and miso croquettes; both of which have been popular
with diners. “Everyone should start with a snack,” says Zamboni. “We don’t particularly encourage people to share, but they can when it comes to the entrées and pasta dishes before getting their own main if they want.”
Beef carpaccio with rocket, macadamia, vincotto and Brussel
sprouts has proven to be a runaway hit; the burratina with
salsa al basilico and confit tomato is another must-order dish.
Zamboni veers away from ‘tradition’ in some dishes more than others. Ravioli with burnt leek, capsicum and black garlic is
a stellar example along with mafalde with king prawns, bok
choy and tomato. “The dish is made with a prawn bisque and it has tomato, garlic oil and chilli; quite classic Southern Italian
flavours,” says the chef. “The bok choy has a bitter flavour that
marries well with the prawn bisque and tomato, which is sweet and acidic, so it’s a nice contrast. Cooking in Japan was a big
learning curve, and there are some ingredients I worked with during my time there that I use now when they marry with Italian ingredients.”
Mains revolve around proteins including wild-caught market fish
fillet with caper sauce; chuck tail flap with shishito peppers, celery
and dates; lamb rump with leek, linseed and desert lime and whole market fish with orange and saffron emulsion. As for desserts, Hospitality tips the chocolate and coffee bundino with orange
caramel as the winner. While Zambino also names the dish as his
go-to, “The burnt butter and sage milk gelato with Davidson plum and rhubarb is lighter and more unique,” he says.
Civico 47 has been open for just over a month, but it’s already
made itself right at home. “The restaurant is in the heart of the
neighbourhood and the feedback has been positive so far,” says
Zamboni. “I think people were curious as to what would replace Lucio’s and were looking forward to something new.” ■ 10 | Hospitality
NEWS // Entrée
Entrée
The latest openings, books, events and more. EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros
London calling The World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards is returning to London for the first time since 2015. The ceremony will be held in Old Billingsgate, with a range of events hosted across the city including a Chef’s Feast and 50 Best Talks. 2022 also marks the launch of a new series that will see London chefs and visiting talent team up to create one-off dining experiences. “We can’t wait to bring the global gastronomic community back together in full once again as well as share the incredible developments in London’s restaurant scene,” says Director of Content William Drew. Attendees will count down the top 50 and find out which restaurant will take the number one position from current holder Noma.
Creature comforts The Spanish Home Kitchen José Pizarro
Toby’s Estate unveils new flagship
Hardie Grant; $55
Coffee Roastery Toby’s Estate has opened the doors to a new HQ in Sydney’s
José Pizarro is behind a raft of London restaurants, and
Chippendale. The store has an enhanced coffee experience that encourages
the chef has curated more than 80 recipes in his new book
guests to observe the entire process from roasting to brewing. “The whole
The Spanish Home Kitchen: Simple, Seasonal Recipes from
space is geared towards interactions; you can sit at the bar and watch coffee
My Home. Pizarro travelled back to his mother’s town in
being made or you can take a table and talk to your waiter about the options,”
central-western Spain to rediscover the dishes and flavours
says Jack Stapelfeldt, flagship manager. The venue is serving 10 rotating coffee
he grew up with including seared squid with caramelised
options at a time along with an expanded menu of toasties, baguettes and
fennel and onion; Iberico pork shoulder in tomato sauce
pastries from Tuga. tobysestate.com.au
with zesty couscous; and migas (crumbs) with fried egg. Some recipes have been passed down over generations, with readers sure to capture a taste of Spain.
12 | Hospitality
Autumn is in full swing, and Cutler & Co is celebrating the cooler weather with a bespoke offering until 29 May. Andrew McConnell and Head Chef Tana Rattananikom have collaborated on a menu that sees the freshest produce hit the flames. “Five-year-old live jumbo Pacific oysters are grilled to the point of just opening and brushed with beef fat mignonette; chestnuts are slow-grilled and seasoned with rosemary salt and new-season potatoes are roasted in coals and served with caviar and crème fraîche,” says Rattananikom. Head Sommelier Penny Vine has created weather-appropriate drinks including a mini Boulevardier with The Gospel’s rye whiskey and secured an allocation of the super-rare
Matteo Downtown returns to Sydney’s dining scene
Plageoles Gaillac l’Ondenc; a white wine made in southwest France. cutlerandco.com.au Photography by Jo McGann
Italian restaurant Matteo Downtown has reopened with a new executive chef at its helm. Giovanni Astolfoni is leading the kitchen and working alongside Head Chef Adam Szynankiewicz and Pastry Chef Layla Giovannoni to create a Northern Italian-centric experience. Highlights include Roman-style wood-fired pizzas made with fermented low-yeast dough, handmade pastas and traditional porchetta along with a 1.5kg tomahawk. The drinks menu includes spritzes, a selection of four Negronis and Italian spirits. matteosydney.com
Bake the day away A Good Day to Bake Benjamina Ebuehi Hardie Grant; $39.95 Benjamina Ebuehi was of The Great British
Wagyumafia arrives at The Star Sydney
Bake Off in 2016
Wagyumafia is bringing its ramen brand
and has gone on to
Mashi No Mashi to The Star Sydney this
make a name for
month. The venue’s signature 1kg Wagyujiro
herself as a cook,
will make its local debut, which sees
food stylist and
100 per cent Wagyu char siu and house
author. A Good Day
noodles served in soup and topped
to Bake is Ebuehi’s
with bean sprouts, bamboo shoots and
second book
organic Japanese garlic. Mashi No Mashi
and celebrates
uses Kobe beef sourced from the top 20
simplicity,
farmers in Japan including Muneharu
mindfulness and
Ozaki of Ozaki Beef. Wagyumafia Co-
the therapeutic
Founder and Chef Hisato Hamada says
perks that come
the opening made perfect sense. “I spent
with baking. There are more than 70
a number of my adolescent years living in
sweet and savoury recipes to make, with chapters split into ‘Herbs
Sydney, and I consider it the birthplace of
and Tea’, ‘Stone Fruit and Berries’, ‘Vegetables’, ‘Best of Beige’,
my appreciation for food,” says Hamada.
‘Spice Cupboard’ and ‘Chocolate’. Try your hand at the miso and
“It is very exciting to open the first
white chocolate cookies or perhaps the hibiscus mint granita with
international shop outside of Hong Kong
salted butter biscuits.
and the first Wagyumafia restaurant in the
in the quarter finals
Southern Hemisphere.” star.com.au
May 2022 | 13
NEWS // Entrée
Changing seasons
PRODUCE // Thai basil
High levels of vitamin A
Leaves do not wilt as fast as sweet basil
Needs regular watering
Can be frozen and stored for up to one week Infuse in vinegars, oils and teas
14 | Hospitality
PRODUCE // Thai basil
Available in most Asian grocers
Thai basil The herb is an essential ingredient in South-East Asian cookery. WORDS Aristine Dobson Origins Thai basil is known by the scientific name O. basilicum var. thyrsiflora and is a cultivar of sweet basil. The herb is native to South-East Asia and has been selectively bred and grown for its distinctive flavour profile. Thai basil is called káu-chàn-thah in Taiwan and is known as húng qu ế (cinnamon basil) in Vietnam, but the name can also refer to a separate type of cultivar. Thai basil is believed to have first been cultivated in India or Asia before it spread to parts of the Mediterranean via spice routes linking eastern and western parts of the globe. It has been grown and consumed for more than 5,000 years. Should be used quickly after harvest
Today, the herb is commonly used in Thai, Vietnamese, Laotian and Cambodian cookery. It is one of three types of basil used in Thai cuisine alongside holy basil and lemon basil.
Growth and harvest Thai basil is best grown in warm, tropical climates that have no frost. It is a tender and compact herb with smaller foliage than sweet basil. Although Thai basil is technically considered a perennial plant, it is usually grown as an annual and has a lifespan of up to two years. For optimum growth, Thai basil requires enriched soil with compost and should be planted in an area that gets full sun. Regular watering of the soil is required, especially during hot, dry weather, and mulch should be added to reduce the amount of water evaporation. Leaves should be harvested above the node by hand or with scissors; care should be taken to ensure the leaves aren’t damaged as they bruise easily.
Flavour profile and appearance The plants have long square purple stems that grow upright with matching purple flowers heads that can grow up to 4.5cm. The leaves reach between 2.5-5cm in size and are deep vibrant green in colour with serrated, jagged edges. Thai basil can be eaten fresh or cooked and has an anise or liquorice flavour that can also be a little spicy. The herb has the ability to withstand higher cooking temperatures than sweet basil, which is why it is commonly used in stir fries and other wok dishes.
Culinary applications Thai basil is a frequent addition to red and green curries in Thailand and is an essential ingredient in drunken noodles. In Vietnamese cooking, the herb is a topping for soup noodles such as pho and bún bò Huế as well as bánh xèo. It is also the hero ingredient in Taiwanese chicken dish san bei ji (three cup chicken). ■ May 2022 | 15
COLUMN // Sylvie Bigar
Cassoulet Confessions How a simple journalistic assignment sparked a culinary obsession and transcended into a quest for identity. WORDS Sylvie Bigar
I DIDN’T EAT cassoulet for breakfast
it comes from, how it travels from the
France extensively. Geneva lies only four
Carcassonne, and I didn’t sip red wine,
kitchen. I know you’re itching to get your
school vacations, my family would often
that first morning at the Garcias’ in
even though they all did. Yes, the kids
too. The dish played a crucial role in the family’s diet. Or perhaps it was more
bounties of the regional soil and into the
hands dirty, but I think you literally need to get your feet in our dirt first.”
I was instructed to stand at the counter,
than their diet. The chef made cassoulet
my hands thrust deep into an immense
some left over and that was that. It would
a stream of white beans, the size of beads,
three times a week and there was always
sustain, it would support. In the Aude, one of the poorest French départements, food was no entertainment. Food was life.
I had café au lait and a thick tartine,
a hefty slice of peasant bread. Laurence
cut for me. Creamy, yellow butter made
it scrumptious. For once, Garcia stayed at
the table. He’d seemed gruff on the phone when I had called from New York, but it was this very morning that I first felt he
was intrigued by my obsession and, dare I say it, touched that I was back to learn
bucket, and pick through what looked like
to remove any that were broken or stained. They felt soft, almost like an immense
rosary. I thought I’d be done quickly, but
it took more than two hours. Every time I called him over to announce I was done, he’d find more I’d missed. My legs were
hurting, but I held on: how many hours could I stand like that without moving? Finally, he asked me to step away and
poured the beans into a massive pot filled with water and fresh bay leaves and left
or five hours north of Provence, so for
drive south on the iconic Nationale 7, the
ancient Roman way that connects Paris to
Menton near Nice, through lavender fields and rows of cypress with elongated limbs, but the Aude landscape was completely
different. Garcia and I rode first through
lush forests of chestnut trees and venerable oaks — “Where elk and boars roam,” he said, “but you’ll never see them” — and then alongside dramatic, rocky peaks
crowned by ruins of Cathar outposts and
castles. The Cathars were a religious group that emerged in the early Middle Ages
and flourished in the Languedoc until the Catholic Church, invoking heresy, called for a deadly Crusade against them.
We turned into a small lane and got out
them to soak.
in front of a stone house with wooden
my resolve?
Back in the car, no smell of blood this time,
duck had been carved, and above the door,
softly, “it’s another to understand where
to the duck farm. I had travelled through
more. Had the pig’s head been a test of
“It’s one thing to master a dish,” he said
16 | Hospitality
we headed towards the hills on our way
doors. On each one, the naïf profile of a
a stone duck heralded the entrance. There was no mistaking where we were.
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COLUMN // Sylvie Bigar “Ducks were domesticated since Roman
times,” explained the farmer, Patrick Lauzy, as we toured the farm, “and duck confit is
blame the Americans. Without them our foie gras would be boche.”
He was using the French derogatory term
days, we didn’t use domesticated ducks for cassoulet. We shot wild partridge.”
I wasn’t even sure what a partridge was,
a crucial part of cassoulet.”
for Germans that originated during World
besides a kind of wild bird, but from his
To make duck confit, a cook salts a piece
she recounted her flight from the soldiers
of information mattered. One of the first
of duck, usually the leg, and lets it rest
overnight or longer to drain the moisture
War II, a word my mother spoke every time who had invaded her beloved country.
“Je les emmerde les Américains,” (f**k
out before cooking it in its own fat. The leg
the Americans) said Lauzy.
jar. This may sound utterly disgusting, even
Were we going to be thrown out from the
even healthy (more on fat later). Through-
Occitan and I strolled ahead, as if this debate
is then preserved in yet more fat in a glass
inedible to some, but it is both delicious and out the southwest of France, the best
chunks of pork, goose, rabbits and game
are confit and installed into prized cans and glass jars — a far cry from spam!
It had started to rain as we left the
house and walked towards the forest, the
duck farm too? But Garcia started barking in did not concern me one bit. Soaked and
muddy, I approached the immense fenced-in
was a child.
“It’s the Americans’ fault,” said Lauzy.
“What do you mean?” asked Garcia. “With the foie gras.”
“What about the foie gras?”
“They say it hurts the animals, ha!” said
Lauzy. “Can you imagine?” “Well, it can’t be pleasant,” I said.
Garcia shot me a dark look.
“Anyway, Lauzy,” he said, “let’s not 18 | Hospitality
Le Cuisinier François (The French Cook),
fresh herbs were introduced for the first time, replacing the exotic spices of the
medieval times. “That’s when cooks started
appreciating the flavour of the ingredients.” Side by side, we cleaned and prepped
days, really — all the simmering, skimming,
I remained silent on the way back,
harboured few opinions about food. While
the world of duck had changed since he
Pierre de la Varenne. In his early cookbook,
be transformed into carnal delicacies.
lives, blissfully unaware that they would soon
he couldn’t believe I had shown up so
story of the five-generation farm and how
explained, and was written by François
veal and beef bones, vegetables and a
remembering that my father, who always
unprepared. I acquiesced as Lauzy told the
recipes for partridge dates from 1651, he
area where dozens of ducks led their peaceful
path quickly flowing into mud.
“You need boots,” said Garcia, as if
secretive attitude it was clear that this piece
said he ate to live and didn’t live to eat, his parents were notorious bon vivants,
towering bouquet garni. Hours later —
and praying would create what chefs call
‘stock’ — the broth that serves as the base for most French sauces, and is crucial in the making of cassoulet.
“There were tons of partridge in the
enjoying white wine or champagne with
vineyards in the old times,” he continued,
meats, and often visiting Michelin-rated
a bit tough, we had to stew them slowly.”
their appetisers, then noted reds with the restaurants, my father didn’t seem to care what he was served. Then it struck me:
the only dish he ever professed to love was
canard à l’orange, an elaborate and ancient recipe of roasted duck cooked with bitter
oranges. How odd for a man who seemed so austere to relish such an extravagant recipe!
Later, back in the kitchen, Garcia leaned
towards me and whispered, “In the old
“since they fed on grapes, but they were I was only half-listening. Domesticated
duck or wild partridge? I was elsewhere, thinking about my father. Who was he really? Domesticated or wild? ■
This is an edited extract from Cassoulet
Confessions: Food, France, Family and the Stew That Saved My Soul by Sylvie Biga. Hardie Grant Books; $32.99
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BEST PRACTICE // Sustainability
Sustainability is about success, not just recycling Cover all the bases from recipe costing to promoting a strong work culture. WORDS Ken Burgin Sustainability is about survival
a quick win for bringing down
want the business from a table
prioritise good work conditions,
and prosperity. With soaring
costs in just a few weeks.
of four people: the three who are
fair pay and establish a strong
supply prices, staff shortages
meat eaters and the one who is
feeling of engagement. High
and crazy weather, sustainability
know profit is their lifeblood.
vegan — creating options isn’t
levels of communication and
makes sense across all business
Without it, rent, suppliers and
hard for smart chefs.
good leadership are essential
areas now more than ever.
staff aren’t paid. The operators
It’s much more than recycled
of these venues are big on
locally when they can because
Peter Drucker said, “Culture eats
packaging and local vegetables,
increasing sales, recipe and
disruptions across the country
strategy for breakfast”. Staff
so let’s look at how it can make
menu costing, watching utility
and globally remind us supply
shortages aren’t such an issue if
your business stronger.
costs and having daily figures.
lines are fragile. The local
they don’t leave.
Let’s start with the areas not
Sustainable businesses
The cliche about sustainable
Sustainable businesses buy
vendor is suddenly a lot less
for this. As management guru
Finally, sustainable
usually associated with ‘green
meaning ‘anti-business’ is a long
expensive when they are 100 per
businesses share their success.
and sustainable’.
way from the truth, and open-
cent reliable compared to the
Cornersmith in Sydney publishes
book management is often a key
large chain that gives you an
personal stories, cooking
innovators who are always
driver — everyone knows how
invoice with 30 per cent of items
classes and local produce
looking for ways to be leaner
business finance works. Good
not available.
pics to demonstrate their
and more efficient. It means
profits mean business owners
embracing change and new
are less stressed and can avoid
are fast with communication
one shortcoming of most
technology and being keen to
crazy hours and the worries
because it keeps back of house
sustainable businesses, it’s that
measure the effectiveness of
that are part of many small
on their game and builds trust
they don’t tell their story very
old methods and new ones. Are
enterprises.
with customers. They have a
well. Post a steady stream of
helpful website, online bookings,
photos and happy snaps of a
Sustainable operators are
you worried about power costs?
Sustainable businesses track
Sustainable businesses
anti-waste ethos. If there’s
Use simple measuring devices
food trends and customer
respond quickly to emails and
new trainee’s first coffee, the
to check peak consumption
enthusiasm and are ahead of
social media messages and keep
bookkeeper at work, cheerful
periods and find the equipment
the curve when it comes to
employees regularly updated.
customers and recycling
that is the heaviest user of gas,
alternative milks, proteins and
Sustainable businesses
electricity and water. It is often
special dietary requests. They
have loyal staff because they
20 | Hospitality
programs. This sustainable thing can be contagious! ■
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NEWS // Drinks
Bar cart
Thirst quenchers, slow sippers and all things beverage related. EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros
Teamwork Swillhouse Group and Joe Holyman have come together to create the ultimate smashable drop: the Swillhouse x Stoney Rise Chardonnay. Holyman is known for minimalintervention wines and a hands-off approach, two drawcards for Swillhouse CEO Anton Forte, who helped bottle the Chardonnay in the Tamar last year. Forte describes the wine as “white Burgundian, spritzy, texture and groovy”. Find it on the menu at Restaurant Hubert and Alberto’s Lounge in Sydney. swillhouse.com
Bacardi gets bottled up Spirits giant Bacardi has ventured into the pre-batched category with the launch of Tails; a selection of four ready-to-drink cocktails. The range covers a Dewar’s blended scotch whisky sour, Bombay gin gimlet as well as an espresso martini and a passionfruit martini both made with 42Below vodka. Each bottle has a QR code that provides tips on how to create the perfect cocktail plus glassware and garnish options. Available from leading liquor stores across Australia. tailscocktails.com
Yuzu goes steady Four Pillars’ yuzu gins have been some of the most
Jewel of the sea A grape-based Australian spirit has hit the market in the form of Mother of Pearl Vodka. Mother of Pearl is made from Pinot Gris grapes grown on the Mornington Peninsula and the Limestone Coast in South Australia, resulting in a neutral base without the burn. The vodka secured 91 points and a silver medal at the International Wine & Spirit Competition, with judges describing the spirit as having a “creamy nose with toffee,
in-demand releases from the Victorian distillery, and
chocolate and apple sweetness. Lemon
now one has made its way into the core range. Fresh
candy, mint and jelly on the palate with
Yuzu gin is made with fruit sourced from Mountain Yuzu
hints of white pepper”. The 700ml bottle
and distilled with botanicals including ginger, turmeric,
sits at 40 per cent ABV and retails for $66.
sencha genmaicha and Japanese green tea with roasted brown rice. “A canvas of strong pine needle juniper and a bit of lemon myrtle add a touch of lemon curd,” says Co-Founder and Distiller Cam Mackenzie. Fresh Yuzu is best enjoyed in a highball with tonic or soda. Available for $80 at Four Pillars locations and good bottle shops. fourpillarsgin.com
A real zinger Local hard seltzer brand Fellr has continued to add to its range since launching in 2020, with the latest addition inspired by a global hit. The passionfruit martini joins the brand’s cocktail range and sees passionfruit combined with citrus. The 6.5 per cent ABV martini has a slightly higher alcohol content compared to other seltzers on the market; a deliberate move based on trade feedback. $23.99 for a four pack; available nationwide through leading liquor retailers. drinkfellr.com 22 | Hospitality
motherofpearl.vodka
FIND OUT MORE
ADVERTORIAL // Karmine Leather
Karmine Leather aprons Whether it’s in the kitchen or behind the bar, Karmine’s apron range has the hospitality industry covered.
FOR MORE THAN 30 years, Karmine Leather’s Founder Ray Borda has
In addition, kangaroo leather is proven to be heat, water and stain
pioneered the use of kangaroo meat in Australia. After putting it on
resistant, making it a practical choice. Whether it is cooking with hot
the menu, the skin was a natural byproduct.
pans in a restaurant kitchen, making drinks behind the bar or serving
Now, Karmine Leather is giving back to the hospitality industry in more ways than one by crafting kangaroo items such as knife sleeves, menu covers and aprons for many different types of venues. Aprons are an essential tool of the trade for those working in the
customers on the floor, Karmine’s kangaroo leather aprons work perfectly in any industry setting. Karmine Leather aprons and menu covers are used at Grünthal Brew & Udder Delights Cheese Cellar in South Australia. Founder
food and beverage sector. The job requires staff to handle tough and
Sheree Sullivan has seen the many benefits that come with
at-times messy tasks, which means strength and durability is a must
the aprons, which are crafted from 100 per cent ethically and
for uniforms. Both qualities can be found in kangaroo leather, which
sustainably sourced kangaroo skin.
has long been praised for being a stronger, more lightweight and flexible option compared to cattle hide. 24 | Hospitality
“We are using a full-bib floor apron which covers the chest and legs of our staff and Karmine makes our menu covers as well,” says Sullivan.
the samples they dropped off and found it to be a
knew Karmine were attached to macro meats. For
seamless and positive experience.”
me, it was a way of using the whole animal.” Easy care and longevity are two other benefits
With the industry moving towards a more sustainable future, locality has always been
that come with Karmine Leather’s aprons. “They look
important. Karmine Leather aims to be a part of
so much better as an ongoing product for a year or
the shift by providing thoughtfully made, bespoke
two,” says Sullivan. “From a maintenance point of
items that will always have a place in Australia’s
view, I love how you just wipe them and condition
hospitality sector.
them as opposed to laundering and ironing to keep
ADVERTORIAL // Karmine Leather
“One thing I really love is that it’s kangaroo, and I
Each hide has unique individual markings that
them looking nice. I think everyone is proud to wear
reflect the animal it came from, making each
their aprons because they look really good.”
Karmine item a truly standalone piece. ■
The range includes two main styles: the classic apron and the deluxe pocket apron. Each option
For more information, visit karmineleather.com.au
comes with a tea towel strap and large pockets. While the classic apron is an unfussy and original design, the deluxe pocket apron comes with a larger pocket with more room for tools. In addition, the style also comes with upgraded hardware and finishes that are available in antique brass or nickel with sizes ranging from S-XL. For any business, brand identity and presentation are of the utmost importance. All aprons are easily customisable and come with the option to engrave a business name or logo and rearrange the pocket to create a product that is truly one of a kind. The craftspeople who work in Karmine’s Adelaide workshop build trustworthy and longstanding relationships with venues, tailoring products to suit their everyday needs. “We had our logo added through an embossing procedure and we had the pockets moved so they function best for our team,” says Sullivan. “I was really impressed with
May 2022 | 25
DRINKS // Soju
New flame Australia’s first soju brand Gyopo is a family affair. WORDS Annabelle Cloros
26 | Hospitality
DRINKS // Soju
WHEN YOU THINK OF soju, a green bottle
most distillers now using grain and starch
the global market is dominated by just a handful
or tapioca in place of rice, which has largely
likely springs to mind. And it’s no wonder, given of players. But what if the bottle was clear
instead of emerald and the liquor was distilled with grapes not grains? Enter Gyopo Soju; a
family business run by three siblings who have launched Australia’s very first soju.
Co-Founder David Park talks to Hospitality
about creating a product that incorporates
Korean culture with a local twist, the nuances of working with Barossa grapes and why the craft soju movement is just getting started.
The earliest records of Korean soju can be traced back to the Goryeo dynasty in the
14th century. The rise of the Mongol Empire essentially facilitated the transfer of soju,
bringing distillation techniques from what is now known as Syria to Korea. Hit the fast-forward
button, and it’s estimated adults in Korea drink 87 bottles of soju each per year, with domestic consumption continuing to rise.
Soju is ubiquitous and of immense cultural
significance in Korea, but what exactly is it? Traditionally, soju is a distilled spirit made
alternatives such as wheat, barley, sweet potato become the domain of niche craft producers.
“Soju means distilled fire water if you translate
it traditionally,” says David Park. “It’s generally a distilled spirit.”
David and his siblings Monica and Michael Park are second-generation Koreans from Sydney
who always wanted to go into business together. The trio would travel to Korea every two years
or so, and it was here where the idea for Gyopo
Soju came about. “We would go out with friends and see a lot of craft distilleries doing their
own takes on soju,” says Park. “There are a lot of varieties in Korea, and we wondered why it wasn’t the case in Australia, which has maybe
two brands imported in mass quantities. So, we decided to take things into our own hands and
create something that allowed us to incorporate
who we are and our culture into it. Gyopo means ‘foreigner’ and refers to a Korean national who has moved abroad as an immigrant, and it’s essentially who we are.”
While green grape is one of the most popular
with rice, water and nuruk, a starter culture
flavoured soju options, Gyopo decided to forgo
process. It has since gone on to evolve, with
sourced from the Barossa instead. “Being
that produces alcohol during the fermentation
“We decided to take things into our own hands and create something that allowed us to incorporate who we are and our culture into it.” – David Park
grains for a combination of white grape varieties
May 2022 | 27
DRINKS // Soju
“We distil three times, which takes away the impurities and colour and results in a crisp, clean spirit that’s undeniably soju.” – David Park Australian, we wanted to incorporate something that’s really well known and easy for people to understand,” says Park. “We tested out a few Online
The soju
natural
is made
beverage
using
retailer Drnks
Barossa
stocks Gyopo
grapes
it soju.”
across the ditch to New Zealand and eventually,
out the sweetness and aromas necessary to make
The grapes are fermented before the distillation process begins, which also includes coconut
takes away the impurities and colour and results with soju
manufacturers
for a
in Korea use the
somaek
same bottles for recycling purposes
in restaurants and bars and hopes to expand Korea. Diners and drinkers at Jane, Marble BBQ, Where’s Nick, Tokki and WonJo BBQ
restaurants in Sydney will spot Gyopo on the menu, with the brand recently moving into select BWS and Dan Murphy’s stores, too.
in a crisp, clean spirit that’s undeniably soju,”
While the local drinking public’s preferences are
necessary for getting the right flavour. There’s
Gyopo is out to expand the average consumer’s
says Park. “It’s quite time-consuming, but it’s not much taste at the start because of the
smoothness, but the back notes have sweetness and fruitiness from the grapes.”
The ABV of soju varies considerably from
largely anchored by beer, wine, gin and vodka, perception of soju and shed some light on a
spirit that can be enjoyed as much as it is at Korean BBQ as it is in a fine-dining setting.
It’s a notion that can be likened to that of
brand to brand, with some sitting at 16 per cent
the global craft beer movement. And who’s to
soju is 17.5 per cent; it’s a little stronger in terms
soju? Small-batch soju distilleries have steadily
and others reaching as high as 53 per cent. “Our of alcohol, but it’s cleaner,” says Park.
Unlike some sojus that are crammed with
artificial flavours or additives, Gyopo’s iteration eschews such an approach, instead creating a
premium product that sits in a lane of its own.
“Most people drink sugary flavoured soju to get drunk at Korean restaurants,” says Park. “But Gyopo is made from grapes and is a product
that’s enjoyable by the glass. It can be consumed with Korean or Australian dishes.”
That’s not to say Gyopo can’t be shotted “as
Koreans normally would”, says Park, who’s
partial to a shot or a slow sipper. “I put it over ice in a big cup and drink it with a meal or it
goes well in cocktails with juice or Sprite,” he
says. “You can also use it in a somaek with beer. 28 | Hospitality
While Gyopo can be purchased online, the
soju has been steadily increasing its presence
copper drums. “We distil three times, which Soju
that’s how true Koreans take it.”
different bases and found grapes and wine bring
charcoal filtration and a resting period inside
Mix beer
We mix a shot of soju with two shots of beer and
say the same trajectory can’t be followed by begun to increase in prevalence in Korea as
well as the US, with one brand (Tokki) even
making soju with glutinous rice from Chungju. “Craft distillers in Korea are booming and the
craft beverage market has been going off,” says Park. “They have a smaller capacity, but more attention to detail, and that’s what I believe
differentiates them from the main players. The
market has always revolved around three massproduced soju brands, but Koreans love to be
different and create new trends, so people are happy to pay the price for the quality and to
taste something that’s not mainstream. To see that movement start has been great, and we pride ourselves on being the first to do it in Australia.” ■
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PROFILE // Dylan Cashman
30 | Hospitality
PROFILE // Dylan Cashman
Dylan Cashman The chef is encouraging diners to think twice about where their food comes from. WORDS Aristine Dobson PHOTOGRAPHY Luisa Brimble
IT’S NOT OFTEN you go to a restaurant and find out who is
providing the food on the table before the plates arrive, but that’s exactly what happens at The Blue Door in Sydney. Guests are
given a menu that lists the farms the ingredients are sourced from,
emphasising provenance as much as produce. Sustainability is at the forefront of the pocket-sized Surry Hills venue that’s the brainchild of Dylan Cashman, who opened The Blue Door in late 2021. The head chef and owner is known for his head-to-tail
approach to cooking, a holistic sentiment that is not only seen on the menu, but exercised during day-to-day operations.
Sustainability has long been a buzzword in the industry, but
Cashman is well and truly practising what he preaches. The chef talks to Hospitality about his formative years in the kitchen,
collaborating with New South Wales farmers and creating dishes that bring a whole new meaning to the phrase “locally sourced.” Dylan Cashman first stepped foot in a professional kitchen in high school when he worked for a local restaurant in his hometown
of Crescent Head. “I was a kitchenhand at The Curl and I used to work at Red Rooster as well,” he says.
Becoming a career chef wasn’t on the cards for Cashman at the
time, who moved to Lismore to study human movement science at May 2022 | 31
PROFILE // Dylan Cashman
“It just makes sense you should want to know where your food comes from.” — Dylan Cashman
university. He switched cooking for cocktails and
Cashman opened the first iteration of The Blue
“I also helped out a mate who ran one of the
Gold Coast. At the time, the chef was cooking for a
worked as a bartender while studying at uni.
kitchens at a bar,” says Cashman. “Once I finished
my degree, I was like, ‘I don’t want to do anything with that’.”
Making a more permanent move into the
kitchen was a natural step, and it wasn’t long
different market of diners. “It was super producerfocused, but it was a different concept,” he says. “Obviously, the Gold Coast is a different beast; people didn’t really understand it so much.”
Cashman closed the venue due to leasing
before Cashman started his apprenticeship at
issues, but quickly bounced back and forged
Bangalow and then went to Fins and went back
in Brisbane for a year and then I went back to
Bangalow Dining Room. “I started working at
and forth between [the two] and a few places
around Sydney,” says the chef, who also picked up shifts at Sean’s Panorama and Cottage Point Inn.
Cashman fast developed a network within the
industry, which would go on to broaden beyond Australia to Europe. “I went to Germany for 16
months and worked over there at a few different places from a pizza to a hamburger store,” he says. “Then I came back and worked at Paper Daisy with Ben [Devlin].”
A reappearance at Fins led to a head chef role
where he would learn from and work closely with Owner Steven Snow. “I worked there
overall for more than four and a half years, and I
ahead. “I helped open a few different places up Europe and worked at a three Michelin star in Germany called Vendôme,” says the chef. Working in top-tier restaurants taught
Cashman a valuable lesson about the importance of seasonal produce. “One of the biggest things
I learned is what not to do,” he says. “You learn a lot of things you don’t like from places. What you’re doing now is what you liked the most.
But at three Michelin stars in Europe, you see everything that’s wrong with restaurants, like
spending four days trying to figure out how to
make a tomato taste like a tomato when they are just not in season.”
The experience would go on to become a
was around when they needed a head chef,” says
defining pillar of Cashman’s cooking style, with
(I cooked at his wedding), and everybody always
“Snowy once said to me, ‘If you buy the best, it
Cashman. “I’ve known Snowy for 15 years now stayed in touch.”
32 | Hospitality
Door (The Blue Door on 5th) in Palm Beach on the
the chef recalling wise words from a friend. takes a lot of effort to stuff it up’.”
www.dayseven.com.au
PROFILE // Dylan Cashman The ethos is at the core of The Blue Door, which
along with bone marrow were core components
While it still bears some similarities to its Gold
cow came from. “When we were finishing off our
Cashman opened in Surry Hills late last year.
Coast predecessor, the concept is firmly centered on provenance, with almost all ingredients
sourced from farms located within state borders. “[The Blue Door on 5th] was based on the same principles, but this one is a little more refined
and pretty much everything is from New South Wales,” says Cashman.
of a beef course that championed the farm the half cow from Gundooee Organic Pasture, the
beef course had beef marmalade (tail and chuck that we braise down), bone marrow sauce and eye fillet,” says Cashman. “We used everything that was left after the ageing process in the one dish.”
Gundooee beef was also used in another
When opening the new venue, the decision
course that was more relaxed in style. “We did
dining. Instead, the chef has taken a more fluid
beef, sauce with cheddar from Port Macquarie
was also made to scrap traditional à la carte
approach to the experience. “We don’t have a menu per se, all seven courses change every
single week,” says Cashman. “Our style is very
reactive. We try to do the best we can with what
we have and reconnect people to why we have it and why we are doing it.”
The ever-changing offering has given the
kitchen more flexibility and ensures nothing
goes to waste. “A tasting menu is so much more flexible,” says Cashman. “Some weeks, we’ll
a Wagyu cheeseburger tartare with Gundooee
and potato crisps,” says Cashman. “People went
nuts for it. It sort of sums us up because we don’t
want to be known as fine dining, it’s ‘fun dining’.” Evidently, each dish is determined by the
farmers and the produce that’s available. “We
Cashman has
we sort of work backwards,” says Cashman. “We
cook the opposite to how everybody else does;
made apricot
of the wine
chicken with
program is from
work directly with the farmers, and we only
Nimbin Valley
New South
brown rice
Wales
work with farmers who we know.”
The Blue Door cooks with ingredients from
change one of the courses every day depending
farms the team has personally visited, with the
in the most appropriate way rather than being
restaurant manager to back of house. “You can
on how we’re working through the whole animal locked into pork belly. We do pork belly for one day and then we change it to shoulder with a different garnish the next.”
The use of whole animals is just one
sustainable practice that has led to the creation
of memorable dishes. Cuts such as tail and chuck 34 | Hospitality
95 per cent
entire staff brought along for field trips from the really see the difference, especially with front
of house, when somebody has been there and
they understand what the farmer is doing,” says
Cashman. “They have a connection, so it’s easier for them to [explain a dish] to customers.”
The chef is all about educating diners as well
The restaurant
Gundooee was
uses fish from
the first certified
Chris Bolton
organic Wagyu beef producer in Australia
merchants@payo.com.au
www.payo.com.au/payo-checkout
PROFILE // Dylan Cashman
as serving them, which means there’s a lot more
room for a spin-off concept later down the track.
makes sense you should want to know where
very best,” says Cashman. “The bigger thing
served at the table besides the food. “It just
your food comes from,” says the chef. “No one does it, and I don’t understand why people
don’t do it. Everybody wants traceability with everything else, but they seem to turn a blind
“I’d rather stick to what we’re doing and do our would be starting to use more whole animals
and giving other chefs access to them, but that’s a while away.”
The Blue Door’s “produce is king and always
eye for restaurant dining.”
will be” approach has been a gamechanger in
The Blue Door is only open four days a week and
firmly focused on relaying the stories behind the
sustainable rostering has created good work–life balance for staff. Running a smaller restaurant also means the team can focus more on
execution when they are in the kitchen or on the floor. “I think the future of our industry is small restaurants; the time of the 300-seat fine diner is gone because the workforce just isn’t there,” says Cashman. “We seat 36 people a night and
do seven courses with two chefs who make every single thing in-house and it doesn’t kill [us].” The chef hopes The Blue Door can set a
precedent for guests and usher in a different
way of thinking. “It makes people see that they can buy produce and support the farms to do more, which sets a new standard,” he says. “Maybe they’re a bit more conscious about where they purchase big products from …
it can help create a better environment and a more sustainable industry.”
For now, Cashman is content with the
progression of The Blue Door as it accelerates towards its first birthday. Although the chef is
intent on staying on the same path, there may be
36 | Hospitality
the local dining landscape, with the restaurant
ingredients it uses. “For us, it’s more important to tell them why they are eating what they are
eating and why we’ve chosen to use that farm as opposed to what the dish is,” says Cashman. “The dish is supplementary.” ■
“We work directly with the farmers, and we only work with farmers who we know.” — Dylan Cashman
Make sure it’s
Request your sample
ADVERTORIAL // Grana Padano
Wheels of fortune With 800 years of history, Grana Padano outdoes generic parmesan at every turn.
PASTA IS A staple dish in foodservice, and one
Unlike parmesan, the quality and consistency
The three vintages are:
of the most-loved meals around the world. In
of Grana Padano is strictly enforced by a
Grana Padano PDO: a softer and grainier
most cases, a crucial step in serving a pasta
regulatory body. Established in 1954, the
version aged between nine to 16 months
dish is the final grating of cheese over the top.
Consortium for the Protection of Grana
for a mild and milky flavour. It’s perfect as
Even if the quantity is small, the quality of the
Padano PDO cheese — or the Consorzio
a topping for meats and vegetables and is
finishing cheese can make all the difference to
Tutela Grana Padano — ensures each wheel
great as an appetiser or a snack.
the flavour of the dish as a whole.
of Grana Padano cheese is made according
Grana Padano Over 16 Months: has a
to production specifications so it can be
grainier consistency and a stronger, tangy
fine to fine dining, most standard parmesan
awarded its PDO (Protected Designation
taste. It’s ideal for grating, cheeseboards,
doesn’t cut it. Parmesan, as a generic cheese
of Origin) status and fire-branded with the
meat and vegetable fillings and to make
product, is unregulated by any governing
Grana Padano mark.
crispy wafers.
For chefs looking to elevate dishes from just
Every maker of Grana Padano is required
Grana Padano Riserva: aged over 20
inconsistencies in quality. Generic grated
to strictly observe the guidelines laid out for
months and required to pass additional
parmesan products contain up to 10 per cent
the production of the cheese, which regulates
quality tests. The end result has a dark
fillers and preservatives and are often aged
everything from the cow’s diet to the milk
straw-yellow colour and a rich, full,
for just six to 12 months — not nearly long
supply area and the ageing process. After nine
persistent taste. Aside from being a
enough to establish a flavour profile robust
months of ageing, each wheel undergoes strict
special ingredient in a great variety of
enough for top restaurants.
testing for appearance, aroma and texture
dishes, Riserva also works well when served
before receiving its fire-branded certification.
as part of a luxurious cheeseboard with
body, meaning producers can get away with
Grana Padano, on the other hand, is a superior alternative. The original recipe is
The final product is a crumbly, delicate
thought to have been invented in 1135 by a
cheese with an intense flavour profile and a
group of Benedictine monks in Northern Italy,
granular structure that’s capable of elevating
who transformed surplus raw milk into a cheese
sweet and savoury dishes. Grana Padano is
to finish a meal, create a meal or to enjoy
with a distinctive and intense flavour profile.
differentiated into three separate vintages,
as part of a cheeseboard, the high quality
For almost 900 years, the original recipe
the consistency of which can be relied upon
and consistency of the historic product is a
from wheel to wheel.
guaranteed way to satisfy customers. ■
for Grana Padano has remained unchanged. 38 | Hospitality
nuts, fruits and chutneys and aged balsamic vinegar. Whether you are using Grana Padano
https://ww w.
granapadan o.it/en-ww
/default.as px
FEATURE // Knives
Blade Runner Japanese knives are lauded by chefs the world over — here’s why. WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Guy Davies for ProTooling
40 | Hospitality
in Sydney. Zhang started building his own
honing a specialised craft that combines
adequate knives. “In 2009, there weren’t
hands; ones that have often spent decades
tradition with performance. The knives are
forged from Japanese steels, which range from 58 to 68 on the Rockwell scale, making them considerably tougher than any counterparts.
Skill, knowledge and superior materials are
just three of the X factors that have contributed to the iron-clad reputation of Japanese knives,
which are in near-constant demand from chefs. Hospitality speaks to ProTooling’s Paul Tayar and Knives and Stones’ James Zhang — two of the main importers of Japanese knives —
collection and found it difficult to source
many choices, so I had to go through different sources to buy a knife,” he says. “Towards the end of 2013, I had quite a bit of knowledge
about Japanese knives. I went to Japan to meet with a few manufacturers and explained my
understanding of knives and provided feedback
on how they could make better tools. They were quite impressed and said, ‘Do you want to sell
our knives in Australia?’ and that’s how I started Knives and Stones.”
Establishing meaningful relationships with
about building a kit, the art of sharpening and
makers has led to Knives and Stones selling
longevity of a knife.
Kurosaki, which are often snapped up as soon
why small acts go a long way to ensuring the
Paul Tayar and James Zhang didn’t start out in the knife business, but both saw an untapped
opportunity when they couldn’t find what they
were looking for. Tayar was surrounded by food and cooking growing up with woodworking in the background, while Zhang was an engineer and a fishing enthusiast. “I was collecting
knives and tools and fell into the rabbit hole
of Japanese blacksmiths,” says Tayar. “I started
importing for my own collection, but after years
of speaking with smiths and suppliers, I brought in larger numbers to distribute myself and the
FEATURE // Knives
JAPANESE KNIVES ARE made by experienced
tools from Sakai Takayuki, Sukenari, Tanaka and as they’re released. And for good reason; the
products aren’t just given to any supplier. “When I met Hinaki san from Sukenari in the Toyama
“Broadly, a Japanese knife is a sharper, more accurate knife. The steels used are harder, which means they hold a sharper edge for longer.” – Paul Tayar
company fell into place.”
Tayar is behind ProTooling in Sydney’s
Camperdown, a store that sells knives along with whetstones and other kitchen tools.
ProTooling stocks knives from blacksmiths
including the pioneering Terukazu Takamura based in Echizen and newer Nagano maker Jiro Nakagawa. ProTooling’s range covers
knives crafted by more than 17 smiths, with the relationships all built over time. “There are only a handful of blacksmiths creating
knives to the level we are looking for, and they basically all know each other,” says Tayar. “My network grew because we got on so well; they knew they could trust me, and we enjoyed
speaking with each other about the tools we
were passionate about. I speak daily with many blacksmiths and suppliers, and we work with them to help create new products and give
feedback. They are all striving to improve their work and appreciate the honesty.”
It’s an experience echoed by Zhang, who
initially opened Knives and Stones as an online store before moving into a retail premises in St Peters and recently expanding to Glebe
May 2022 | 41
FEATURE // Knives prefecture, he said I could keep a knife if I could
Zhang compares the construction of Japanese
put an edge on it,” says Zhang. “I was able to
knives, referred to as San Mai, to a sandwich.
who was able to provide a service to customers
to give knives an acute angle,” he says. “Europe
sharpen a nice edge, and he saw I was someone and was therefore happy for me to sell the
products. You have to demonstrate you’re not just a middleman.”
One of the key attributes of Japanese knives is
the material; the handling and the way a knife is made are other critical components. So what are the defining characteristics of Japanese knives? “Broadly, a Japanese knife is a sharper, more
accurate knife,” says Tayar. “The steels used are
“Japan has high-carbon steel, and they are able
and the United States have nice steel as well, but the Japanese also forge them into what we call
Sen Mai structure. You have the soft steel or iron on the outside as the bread, and then you have the steel in the middle, which is like the meat.
They forge knives in that way so they are easier to sharpen, and it’s very special to Japanese
knives. You also have many different shapes of knives; each task has a corresponding knife.”
harder, which means knives hold a sharper edge
Suffice to say, there’s a Japanese knife for every
be thinner and generally cut better. The shape of
(sashimi/slicing), petty and Funayuki (filleting),
for longer. The harder steel also means they can the grind, the profile and the way a knife tapers all have an effect as well.
“This is also true for the steel itself, harder
isn’t always better; too hard and they become brittle, too soft and they don’t hold an edge. Many people get caught up on the technical
specifications of a knife, and while these things
do play a part, the blacksmith and the sharpener (two different specialties in Japan) will play a
job. From a Gyuto (chef’s knife) to a Yanagiba
chefs can build a kit according to the tasks they need to perform. Zhang and Tayar both tip the
Gyuto (which means beef sword) as the perfect starting point. “We always recommend getting
your main chef’s knife sorted first,” says Tayar.
“Focus on one good Gyuto knife as your primary tool and then you can spend much less on auxiliary knives.”
Japanese knives vary greatly in terms of price
larger role. The way in which a steel has been
points, but you can pick up a Gyuto for a little
this, the way in which it has been shaped and
thousands. “You don’t have to spend that much
treated will affect its performance greatly. After sharpened will as well.” 42 | Hospitality
under $200 or splash out on a blade in the
to get a very good knife, you can get a very high-
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FEATURE // Knives
“Some say two knives cover up to 85 per cent of jobs in the kitchen, and they are a chef’s knife and a smaller petty knife.” – James Zhang
performing knife for $300 or so,” says Tayar,
or a higher grit whetstone. If you do this each
“It’s a smaller utility knife that is super useful
of our chefs use a strop daily and do a quick
who also tips a petty knife as another must-have. for chefs. We have some who use it as their main knife; it’s very adaptable and a great little knife to have in your roll. Another shape that’s good is the Honesuki, which was made for poultry
break down, but we’re seeing many chefs in the
sharpen once a week. It’s good for most people
to bring them in once or twice a year to get the bevel reset and repair any profile/shape issues that can happen over time.”
One of the worst things a chef can do is let
US and Europe use them as an all-purpose utility
their knife reach the point of bluntness. “You
knives, but have more height at the heel, which
days and sharpen every week, but a lot of chefs
knife. They are generally a bit thicker than petty can make them easier to use.”
Zhang suggests chefs start with a Gyuto and
a petty knife and acquire additional knives
according to their needs. “Some say two knives cover up to 85 per cent of jobs in the kitchen,
and they are a chef’s knife and a smaller petty
knife,” he says. “You can expand to a cleaver or a
should strobe your knives every two to three
sharpen daily,” says Zhang, who recommends
ceramic stones. “We stock Naniwa sharpening
stones, but anything from Japan will do a decent job. You need 400 grit if the knife is blunt; 1,000 if the knife is well maintained and between 3,000–6,000 for finishing.”
Education and taking the time to learn how
boning knife, which is thick in the spine but good
to sharpen a knife properly is a must when
sturdy kitchen knife [boning knife] in a rougher
no idea about the actual logic or theory,” says
for trimming or scraping things. I tend to use this way to a chef’s knife, which will get blunt fast.” The longevity of a high-quality knife all comes down to how much care chefs exercise day-today. Rust and bluntness are two of the most
common issues, but can be mitigated by regular sharpening and acts such as wiping down a blade between tasks.
While professional sharpening is
recommended on an annual basis, chefs should
take the time to consult with professionals, who
investing in quality tools. “A lot of people have Zhang. “They scratch the blade on the stone and don’t know when to stop or even if they have
the right angle. You need to give the edge the correct angle to sharpen it properly. The next
big thing is thinning — you must get the knife sharp for it to cut properly, so you need to lay
the knife flat on the stone to get that sharpness. We provide tutorials in-store, and many chefs
take advantage of this — they don’t have to be our customers.”
There’s no doubt sharpening can be daunting,
can provide tips on maintenance products. “The
but Tayar has some tips for chefs looking to up
“We recommend using a strop (with compound)
the angle does play a part, but the most important
more you sharpen, the easier it is,” says Tayar.
44 | Hospitality
day, you don’t need to sharpen very often. Most
their game. “Sharpening can be very technical;
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FEATURE // Knives thing is to maintain a consistent angle,” he says. “The key point is to feel for a burr, which is a small amount of metal that will curl
over the edge of the other side of the knife. It feels rough when you run your finger over the knife’s edge. Once you can feel it, it means
you have ‘apexed’ the edge and you can flip the knife over to do the other side. If you’re not getting a burr, you won’t ever get the knife as sharp as it can be.”
Cutting boards can also play a sinister role in a knife’s lifespan.
“People complain their knives get blunt really fast, and the first thing I ask them is, ‘What’s your cutting board?’” says Zhang.
“Modern Japanese cutting boards are made from antibacterial
rubber and are quite soft compared to harder timber. Wood and
bamboo boards destroy the edge of a knife. Hasegawa boards have a wooden core, but the outer layer doesn’t have any timber and
the board remains flat after dishwashing at high temperatures.” The final component of taking care of a knife all comes down to
where it is when it’s not in use. There are a realm of options that
span from storing blades in a soft kit to wrapping them in a towel or placing knives inside covers. “A saya is a wooden cover that
protects the entire blade,” says Tayar. “It’s best to get a custom
fit as the shape and size of knives varies greatly. We also have a
lot of chefs who keep them in the original boxes, which are easy to stack and they have anti-corrosive paper inside them for any carbon steel knives.”
Zhang preferences a towel to prevent moisture and damage to a
blade if a chef isn’t using a roll. “The towel protects the knife from bumping into things,” he says. As for sayas, Zhang recommends them for transportation purposes only and cautions chefs to
limit the amount of time knives spend in covers. “Wood contains
tannins that can damage the surface of a knife if you leave it long enough,” he says. “Sometimes, people leave a knife in there for months and it’s all rusted when they pull it out.”
Building a knife kit with quality tools goes a long way to getting
the job done right. It’s a passion project for everyone involved
from the people who forge the blades to the enthusiasts who sell
them, the chefs who use them and the diners who enjoy the dishes that couldn’t be made without them. ■ 46 | Hospitality
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FEATURE // Saganaki
The art of saganaki Cheese is integral to Greece’s food culture, and saganaki is proof.
GREEK CUISINE IS known for many iconic
WORDS Aristine Dobson
offer and is typically served at the start of a
and Greekdoor’s Matina Spetsiotis about its
showcase the variety of cheeses Greece has to
kind of cheese for the job and mastering
foundational. It is one of the best ways to
mezze spread.
prevalence in Greek venues, choosing the right the technique.
An early version of saganaki appeared in
Peter Conistis is a Sydney-based chef who has
Greektown, Chicago, which saw the owner
years, including the latest: Ploos in Campbells
the late ’60s at the Parthenon restaurant in
bring a piping hot pan of cheese to the table,
add a dash of alcohol and set it alight in front of guests. The result was a slice of cheese
with a crisp outer layer, a gooey centre and a memorable flavour. It’s just one of the many interpretations of the dish, with another iteration drizzled with lemon, oregano and honey. 50 | Hospitality
Hospitality talks to Ploos’ Peter Conistis
dishes, and saganaki is nothing short of
opened a raft of Greek restaurants over the
Cove. He says diners often have the wrong idea
when it comes to saganaki, confusing ingredients with technique. “People think saganaki is the
cheese, but it is a word that refers to the style of
cooking; it’s the pan it’s cooked in,” says the chef on the two-handled pan. “In the northern parts of Greece, seafood is done saganaki style with prawns and muscles.”
“The consumption of cheese is very broad in
they can accompany it with fruit flavours such as roasted grapes or figs.”
Spetsiotis selects a semi-soft or a semi-hard
Greece,” says Matina Spetsiotis, chef and owner
cheese, opting for talagani from Chios in the
cheese is one of the mezze items that make up
stringy type of cheese for saganaki,” says the
of Greekdoor in Sydney’s Balmain. “Saganaki
a Greek spread because cheese is a part of the meal; it’s not a specific course.”
There are myriad cheeses found in Greek
cookery, but kefalotyri or kefalograviera are the most popular options and both offer distinct
south Peloponnese at Greekdoor. “You need a chef. “It’s all about texture and how it holds itself when you cook it. During the cooking process, it becomes nice and crisp on the outside and
remains gooey and soft on the inside, which is the texture of saganaki cheese.”
Softer cheeses can be used, but there is a
eating experiences. “If you’re going with the
risk they might not hold together if precautions
works beautifully combined with fruit,” says
like manouri, they need a little bit of extra care
graviera, it’s less salty, a little nuttier and
Conistis. “I’d normally use a kefalotyri because it’s punchier, saltier and has real bite when
the cheese is aged. When it roasts, it becomes the star, with honey and lemon accentuating the flavour.”
Both cheeses are a blend of sheep milk and
aren’t put in place. “With feta and other cheeses in the preparation because they are so moist
and soft,” says Spetsiotis. “You need to wash all the brine off and put them through flour. These cheeses require a thicker coating to keep them intact while cooking.”
goat milk, which is commonplace in Greece.
Perfecting the cooking technique starts with
determine the best option. “With a kefalotyri and
things simple. “In different parts of Greece, a lot
Conistis recommends chefs try each cheese to
graviera style, pan roast them and see which one is your preferred taste: do you like it nuttier and milder or do you preference a real punch?” he
says. “A purist will always go for a kefalotyri so
preparing the cheese. Conistis prefers to keep of people add flour before they fry the cheese
in the pan,” says the chef. “I tend not to do that because I like to get a natural crust as opposed to the crust building from a wheat protein, but
“People think saganaki is the cheese, but it is a word that refers to the style of cooking.” — Peter Conistis
May 2022 | 51
FEATURE // Saganaki
As for the cheese component, there are several
options that can be used to make the dish.
FEATURE // Saganaki
“You have to be attentive: I can’t stress that enough; you can’t just walk away from it.” — Matina Spetsiotis there are other ways. If you dip it into a little bit of water and coat it with some black and white
sesame seeds before frying, you’re building up an
180 degrees Celsius.”
Once the cheese is placed in the pan, it is slowly
extra crust and another flavour component.”
cooked until both sides are browned. There is
cheese, with feta as the exception. “I don’t like
a couple of minutes per side. “You have to be
Spetsiotis preferences tapioca starch for her
using flour unless it’s for a soft feta cheese; it’s
really thick and solid and can even come out raw,” she says. “The tapioca starch is very light; we
put the cheese in it and dust it off. It just needs
enough coating to provide protection on the hot
no exact time frame, but it is estimated to take attentive: I can’t stress that enough; you can’t just walk away from it,” says Spetsiotis. “You will see the cheese becoming crisp and golden, which is the way it should be.”
Saganaki cheese must be consumed straight
plate and get a beautiful crispness.”
after cooking, which is why it is usually served in
next step of the process. “You need a pan that
plate, it’s always served in the pan,” says Conistis.
Using the right equipment for the job is the
can heat up fast so you can get it nice and hot when you put the cheese in and retain the
heat,” says Conistis. “A heavy heat-conducting
pan is the best way to start when you’re making
the pan. “Saganaki is never taken out and put on a “It keeps it hot and bubbly, and you’ve also got
that wonderful dressing on the bottom by the time you finish it, which can be enjoyed with bread.”
saganaki cheese.”
There is no denying cheese is the star of saganaki,
find here in Australia, but there are alternatives.
take it to the next level. Quintessential Greek
A traditional saganaki pan can be tricky to
“You don’t need to have a saganaki pan, you can
use a regular frying pan with a heavy base,” says 52 | Hospitality
Spetsiotis. “We cook it on a hot plate at around
but seasonings, dressings and accompaniments ingredients such as lemon, olive oil, thyme,
oregano and honey are traditional elements, with
www.orderup.com
FEATURE // Saganaki In the
other options including fruits, nuts, alcohol and
another take sees the cheese wrapped in fine
saganaki has a beautiful Greek honey over it, a
crunchy and fine,” says Conistis. “You get the
sometimes even pastry. “At the moment, our
piece of honeycomb on the side, roasted pecans on top, some fresh thyme leaves, little flowers (if we find them) and lemon,” says Spetsiotis.
“It’s an ideal balance with the saltiness from the cheese, the sweetness from the honeycomb and the acidity from the lemon.”
The options are endless when it comes to riffs
and ingredients can be switched out depending on personal taste and seasonality. “You can use
different fruits such as figs, conserves and things like relish,” says Spetsiotis. “In the past, we’ve used walnuts or sesame seeds on top.”
Conistis has experimented with many
different variations, but says a splash of
kataifi pastry. “We roast it and it becomes really crunch on the outside and soft, molten cheese
on the inside. We used to serve it with roasted
plums finished off in the pan with the cheese.” If you go to a Greek restaurant in any part of the world, saganaki is almost always on the menu. It’s a dish that both modern and traditional
eateries gravitate towards. “I’ve been cooking
for more than 30 years and I’ve had a version of it at every restaurant,” says Conistis. “The more Greek restaurants that have opened over the
years, the more saganaki I’ve seen, and that’s great because people seem to love it.”
The dish is a representation of the importance
ouzo is always a crowd pleaser. “One of the
of cheese within Greek cuisine and it is the
especially in Greece, is hitting it with some
cheese was plonked in the middle of the table
purest ways I know that everyone loves,
lemon juice, a shot of ouzo and a sprinkle of oregano,” he says. “Ouzo is one of the best
flavour combinations with saganaki cheese. It personifies Greek cuisine with its herby, anise flavour and it just adds to the cheese.”
The chef’s most popular version of saganaki is
halloumi with pistachio and sesame seeds, but 54 | Hospitality
centrepiece of the table. “Growing up, Greek
regardless of what you eat, and the rest of the
food just finds its way around the cheese,” says Spetsiotis. “It’s not just important for saganaki, but it’s very important in the Greek diet. For
me, there wouldn’t be a menu with the style of
cooking I do without saganaki cheese as part of the mezze spread.” ■
Saganaki
northern
cheese
parts of
is often
Greece,
paired
brandy is
with
added to
pita
flambé
bread
Spetsiotis
Conistis
sources her
has made
cheese from
a graviera
Miloway
saganaki with
Wines in
pan-roasted
Earlwood
watermelon
Take a squiz
Enquire now to see how we can help - hello@squizify.com
0425 841 682
squizify.com
FEATURE // Tartare
56 | Hospitality
FEATURE // Tartare
RARE breed
Tartare is an iconic dish that continues to evolve and never fails to impress. WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Jo McGann for Gimlet; Nikki To for Jane
A TRADITIONAL TARTARE comprises
to Hungarian, Chilean, French, American
and Collins both subscribe to the idea that
and pepper, punctuated with onions and
been an ever-present staple at all types of
shouldn’t the food be, too?
a dish of raw meat seasoned with salt capers, splashed with Worcestershire
sauce and finished with an egg yolk on
top. It’s an iconic creation that has various iterations across different cuisines from Lebanon’s kibbeh nayyeh to Korea’s yukhoe and Turkey’s cig kofte.
Beef has long reigned supreme (and for
good reason), with chefs simultaneously championing the original while putting other protein options such as fish,
kangaroo and lamb in front of diners.
Hospitality speaks to Jimmy Richardson
from Leonards Bar & Bistro, Victoria
Scriven from Jane and Samy Mir-Beghin
from Gimlet about essential meat cuts and the steps required to make the palatestarting dish.
What we now recognise as tartare can
be traced as far back as the 13th century when Mongol warriors called Tatars
tenderised meat under their saddles to
later consume raw. The story is potentially
and Ethiopian. Here in Australia, it’s
restaurants, with most diners shedding any qualms about consuming raw meat over the years.
At Trader House’s Gimlet at Cavendish
House in Melbourne, the steak tartare is a collaborative lunch-only dish courtesy of
Restaurant Manager Samy Mir-Beghin and
Head Chef Colin Mainds, who compare the iteration to a perfectly balanced martini
or a freshly shucked oyster dropped with lemon juice.
“What we do is very close to what you’d get if you went to a bistro in Paris; the idea was to stay as close to the experience as possible.” – Samy Mir-Beghin Mir-Beghin and Collins have long had
a myth — and has questionable origins and
an affinity for tableside tartare, with Mir-
again six centuries later. This time, as a
during an after-work meal at Le Relais Plaza
sources — but tartare went on to appear Hamburg steak at New York restaurants,
which saw salted and smoked minced beef served with onions and breadcrumbs.
Various forms of tartare have enjoyed a
mainstay status across cuisines not limited
if cocktails are made in front of guests, why Gimlet’s tartare process naturally starts
in the kitchen where chefs hand cut up to eight portions of O’Connor grass-fed beef
from Gippsland for service. “We use rump
cap, which is very tender when it’s raw and doesn’t have much fat,” says Mir-Beghin. “The beef is cut into pieces and then it’s
put in the fridge until the dish is ordered.”
The tartare is not on the official menu at
Gimlet and is only available on weekdays and in limited numbers. It takes around
five minutes for Mir-Beghin to put together the tableside tartare in front of guests,
kicking things off by mixing an emulsion
of mustard, olive oil and egg plucked from his tray of ingredients. “We season it with
white peppercorns and salt, and then I ask
the guests how spicy they would like it and add Tabasco according to their tastes,” he says. The degree of heat is the only part
of the process guests are involved in, with
the rest of the dish composed according to Gimlet’s recipe.
Worcestershire sauce and salt and
Beghin watching the dish being assembled
pepper are put in the bowl with the
in Paris and Collins sampling the dish at
the ketchup and lemon juice is added.
Brasserie Georges in Lyon as a young chef. So, it made perfect sense the pair would
recreate both the dish and the experience
at Cutler & Co and now, Gimlet. Mir-Beghin
emulsion before the meat is mixed in and “We incorporate the classic condiments of capers, cornichons, chives and shallots
and do a final mix where I incline the bowl so people can see it,” says Mir-Beghin.
May 2022 | 57
FEATURE // Tartare
“It really lends itself to so many different iterations from steak to tuna and even lamb; it always feels really indulgent.” – Victoria Scriven
“We use a ring to plate the tartare and finish
and believes it’s the perfect way to start
an Ortiz anchovy is dropped on top, which is
quintessential menu item,” she says. “It really
the dish with fresh pepper and chives before Andrew’s [McConnell] touch.”
The tartare is served with a generous
selection of vessels for diners to scoop the
meat onto including fries, green salad and
lends itself to so many different iterations
from steak to tuna and even lamb; it always feels really indulgent.”
Kangaroo with bush tomato tartare is
grilled croutons. It’s the final piece of the
ordered by almost every table and is served
experience. “Everyone is so surprised,” says
popular dish and I think it showcases what
puzzle, which concludes the theatrical
Mir-Beghin. “The waiter briefs them, but when people see me bring the tray over,
they are amazed. Having something like
with shoestring fries, naturally. “It’s a very we are about at Jane and our approach to Australian cuisine,” says Scriven.
The team works with kangaroo from
this happening in a busy restaurant is like a
Paroo, a premium supplier that sources
close to what you’d get if you went to a bistro
the Paroo Darling region in far west New
performance in a way. What we do is very in Paris; the idea was to stay as close to
the experience as possible and the tartare
comes exactly how it should be — nothing is missing.”
Jane restaurant opened its doors in Sydney’s Surry Hills last year, with Victoria Scriven taking on the role of head chef. It’s the
second venue for Owner and Chef Tristan
ethical and sustainable wild kangaroo from South Wales. A naturally lean cut, sirloin is used for its tenderness and earthy flavour. Chefs begin by slicing the meat. “It needs to be slightly firm, so we freeze the slices
and then dice them into 1/2cm cubes,” says
Scriven. “I enjoy tartare with a little bite; we
don’t want miniscule cubes that disappear on the palate.”
Next, the kangaroo is seasoned with salt
Rosier, who created the first kangaroo tartare
and pepper and mixed with chilli, bush
opening dishes, so it made a lot of sense
is really bold, so we wanted to complement
for Arthur’s menu. “It was one of Arthur’s
to bring it back when we were writing the menu for Jane,” says Scriven.
The chef is personally a big fan of tartare,
58 | Hospitality
a meal. “I love tartare and think it’s a
tomato harissa and chives. “The kangaroo it with the slight sweetness of tomatoes,
fermented chilli and the bitterness of bush tomato,” says Scriven. “We serve it with a
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FEATURE // Tartare
“Tartare is better than most steaks, to be honest.” – Jimmy Richardson
kefir cream, fried capers and fries. The result is
don’t want it to be too small with no texture
it’s topped with the crispy fries!”
Richardson. When a 50g portion is achieved, the
robust, savoury and a sensory awakening when
Over in Brisbane, lamb is the protein of choice
at Leonards Bar and Bistro in Brisbane. Jimmy
or so large you have to chew on it,” says
meat is placed in a chilled bowl to ensure it is kept at a low temperature.
Marination is the next step, which sees 1 per
Richardson has recently taken on the executive
cent salt, smoked harissa and toum combined
Bistro and describes the experience of eating
mix the sauces together, water content naturally
chef role at the venue after time at Gerard’s
tartare as ‘primal’. “Tartare is better than most
steaks, to be honest,” he says. “I like to have it before eating any warm dishes.”
And that’s exactly how the dish appears on the
menu: in the starters/snacks section. Leonards’
tartare is served in an almond crisp with carrot
escabeche and ordered by the piece. “If you want
four or five to yourself, you can,” says Richardson. “It’s quick for us to plate and it’s a great
introduction to what we do; when it arrives at the table, it almost looks like a taco cross cannoli.” Lamb shoulder from Margra or a Tasmanian
with the lamb just before service. “Once you
seeps out and the lamb can cure if you leave it for too long,” says Richardson.
Fermented carrots are a key component of the
dish and represent the escabeche element. “We
use cumin, fennel and coriander and marinate the carrots with olive oil, vinegar and 2 per cent salt,” says Richardson. “We hang them in the kitchen
for up to two weeks depending on the heat and then we drain off the liquid, remove the spices and they’re ready to go. It ends up having the traditional Spanish escabeche flavours.”
The fermented carrots and lamb are served in
producer is trimmed down to ensure there’s no fat
an almond shell, which is made in-house. “We
two days, which takes away excess any moisture
oil before moulding around metal pipes and
or sinew present. “We age it in the fridge for up to and intensifies the flavour,” says the chef.
A chopping board and bowls are placed in
the fridge to ensure the meat is kept as chilled
as possible throughout the preparation process. “I like there to be various sizes of meat, but the maximum is probably a quarter of a cm; you 60 | Hospitality
Jane
Fries are
sources
commonly
kangaroo
served with
from NSW
tartare
make a ‘taco’ dough, cut it and soak it in olive
baking them in the oven until crispy,” says the chef. “People who order it love eating it, and
the feedback has been overwhelmingly positive. Before, people wouldn’t eat tartare unless it was from a specific restaurant, but now it’s so common.” ■
Leonards
Meat needs to
ferments
be kept chilled
carrots for
throughout
two weeks
preparation
www.anchorfp.com.a u
FEATURE // Crème caramel
S
o c m t e f o e rt w
Crème caramel may look simple, but the dessert requires finesse to get right. WORDS Aristine Dobson CARAMEL AND CUSTARD are stalwarts
original inventors of the dish. After Arab
“Pudim is what crème caramel is called
two create crème caramel (aka flan), a
Spanish cooks developed a sweet, soft
staple desserts we have, and regions have
in the pastry world. When combined, the dessert that has long been revered for
its simplicity. Different versions are set apart by ingredients, preparation and presentation, but linked together by
foundational crème caramel markers.
Hospitality speaks to Sweet Belem’s
José Silva and Institut Polaire’s Gabriela Macedo about the makings of a good
crème caramel, their takes on the dessert and why it will always be on the menu.
Crème caramel is ubiquitous within French cookery, but Spaniards claim to be the 62 | Hospitality
traders brought sugarcane to Europe,
custard that would go on to inspire spinoffs across the globe.
in Portuguese,” he says. “It’s one of the different recipes.”
Pudim has been a long-time favourite for
Today, crème caramel is a classic dessert
Silva, with the dish eliciting fond memories
leche flan uses evaporated and condensed
one of my favourite things (I love anything
within multiple cuisines. The Philippines’ milk to form the custard, with the same
ingredients found in crème caramels made in parts of South America. In Japan, purin skips the cooking process altogether by using gelatin to set the dessert.
Sweet Belem Owner Jose Silva hails
from Portugal where crème caramel is made and enjoyed across the country.
of his upbringing. “I grew up with it and it’s custardy),” he says. “I came to Australia when I was 12, so I spent a lot of my
childhood in Portugal. Crème caramel was my go-to dessert as a kid and my aunties always made it for special occasions.”
Institut Polaire’s Head Chef Gabriela
Macedo has similar sentiments towards crème caramel, and considers it to be a
Silva tips vanilla bean as a opposed to extract
the classic out of all the French desserts,” says
to flavour the custard for an enhanced taste
— it reminds you of home — and that’s why we
obviously the quality of the ingredients is going
the chef. “Everybody has an experience with it picked the dessert for our menu.”
The restaurant has a seasonal approach to
profile. “You can use extract if you want, but to determine the end product,” he says.
Institut Polaire in Hobart sources ingredients
its offering, and crème caramel is found on the
from local farms, opting to forgo chicken eggs
are always available because it’s a pretty simple
recreate the recipe with Tasmanian ingredients,
menu during the cooler months. “The ingredients recipe, but we like to put it on during winter
because you’re looking for something rich, sweet and comforting,” says Macedo.
Sweet Belem and Institut Polaire use a classic
for duck eggs in the dessert. “We decided to
and that’s why we use duck eggs,” says Macedo. “They are really rich and make the crème
caramel creamier; we use the yolk and the whole egg for the custard.”
While most French recipes call for milk, Macedo
recipe to make a base crème caramel custard,
prefers cream. “We use pure cream; it’s really rich
core components are milk, sugar, eggs and
flavour to the crème,” she says. “It’s from a lady
with other additions tweaking the result. “The we also add vanilla bean,” says Silva. “Some
Portuguese like to use a little bit of cinnamon
and lemon zest in the milk instead of vanilla.”
and the percentage of fat is high, so it adds more who has farms in the west of Tasmania.”
As with any dessert, divvying up the ingredients comes first. “We separate the eggs, we measure
the sugar, milk and pure cream and then blend it all together,” says Macedo.
The white to yolk ratio in the eggs can be
adjusted depending on the intended size of the
crème caramel. “The amount of yolk and white
you’re using really depends on the portions you are making, but generally it’s a 1:1 ratio,” says
Macedo. “Normally, you have double the white
in an egg, so you’re going to double the amount of yolk. When you get eggs from a really small [farm], you can’t control the exact size, so we
weigh the eggs and always use the same amount of yolk and egg white.”
Cooking the custard comes next. “You infuse
the milk with vanilla bean by bringing the milk
to the boil and letting it sit for half an hour to an hour,” says Silva. “Then bring it back to the boil
and [separately] whisk your eggs and sugar. You
add your hot liquid to the eggs, whisk it and sieve it so there isn’t any shell or lumps from the egg.” The caramel element sees chefs brown white sugar in a pan on the stovetop, but there are two common techniques used to achieve the
best result. “There is dry caramel where you put sugar straight into the pan and then you stir it,” says Silva. “Or there’s wet caramel where you
make a sugar syrup with sugar and water and
reduce it until it’s amber. We normally do a sugar syrup because we make big batches and it’s
easier to control. But you have to be very careful as it’s about 165 degrees Celsius; we add warm water because it can steam up like a volcano.”
May 2022 | 63
FEATURE // Crème caramel
universally lauded dessert. “Crème caramel is
FEATURE // Crème caramel
“Crème caramel was my go-to dessert as a kid and my aunties always made it for special occasions.” – Jose Silva The sauce component of crème caramel acts as a barrier between the custard and the tin it’s cooked in, with Macedo also seizing the
opportunity to include additional flavours during the syrup-making stage. “We add kumquats for a little contrast,” she says. “It really complements the flavour, and we do it as a seasonal special.”
The kumquats are cooked separately from the
caramel and are also added as a garnish during the final plating of the dish. “We combine them with star anise, cardamom and syrup and cook
for an hour at a low temperature,” says Macedo. Once the caramel has been completed, it’s
poured into a lined mould and covered with the custard mixture, a step that ensures the crème caramel self-sauces when it’s flipped. Once
assembled, the tin is partially submerged in a
bain-marie. “You fill it up three-quarters of the way, so it cooks gently and not from the dry heat of the oven,” says Silva. “Otherwise, you curdle the eggs and it becomes like scrambled egg, not custard.” Cooking times vary depending on the size of
the crème caramel. Low and slow is the name
of the game when it comes to gauging time and temperature. “It’s about 150 degrees Celsius in
the oven; it can be lower, but it will take longer,”
says Macedo. “I time it for 55 minutes or an hour depending on the eggs and the yolk.” 64 | Hospitality
Sweet Belem sells large crème caramel ‘cakes’
and individual portions which both require
different cooking times. “I’d say 40 minutes for
a ramekin depending on the heat you’re using,”
says Silva. “If it’s a steam oven, it’s usually about 10–15 minutes. The steam conducts a lot better than the dry heat, which takes about 30 to 40 minutes. The bigger the crème caramel, the
longer it takes to cook and set. When you’re
cooking a large crème caramel, the outside cooks faster than the inside, that’s why they put a hole
FEATURE // Crème caramel
“Everybody has an experience with it — it reminds you of home — and that’s why we picked the dessert for our menu.” – Gabriela Macedo
in the middle in Portugal, so it cooks evenly. It’s quite easy to do, but it’s also easy to get it wrong. If you don’t cook it enough, it doesn’t set, which means it falls apart (which has happened to me before) when you turn it out.”
Much like panna cotta, crème caramel is served cold and
needs to set completely before it’s plated. Most chefs bake ahead to leave time for the crème caramel to rest. “We let them set and cool down at room temperature,” says Macedo. “Then we rack
them and leave them in the fridge overnight, so they cool down and are at the proper temperature to be served.”
Crème caramel may only be a combination of two elements,
but for many chefs, it is a dessert that has always held its own. “I am Brazilian, and we have crème caramel in a traditional
way,” says Macedo. “It’s a multicultural dessert everybody likes, and it reminds people of home in some way.”
For Silva, pudim or crème caramel is something that has
been a big part of his personal life and career. “The Portuguese love crème caramel and obviously our clientele also like it,” he
says. “It’s one of those classics that is quite hard to achieve. It’s a skill to get a good crème caramel.” ■
66 | Hospitality
Crème
Sweet
caramel is
Belem uses
also called
free-range
pudim in
eggs in the
Brazil
custard
Macedo
Silva
serves
recommends
crème
browning
caramel
the sugar for
at 18 degrees
longer for a
Celsius
darker caramel
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FEATURE // Women in liquor
Breaking barriers Hinchcliff House’s Alissa Gabriel on challenging unconscious bias and backing yourself. WORDS Brydie Allen
ALISSA GABRIEL HAS achieved
won her first cocktail competition and
career thus far. The Bars Manager at
Bacardi Legacy. It was also the year the
incredible milestones throughout her Hinchcliff House in Sydney got her start in the industry in Far North Queensland when she was still in high school and looking to apply to the military. But
was named the 2015 national winner of international final was held in Sydney, which saw Gabriel experience the bar scene of the city.
Gabriel would go on to move to
instead of enlisting, Gabriel “fell in love
Sydney and join Speakeasy Group,
drink and curating an experience”.
across venues including Mjølner and
with hospitality, the art of creating a There wasn’t much of a thriving
cocktail environment during her first
gig, so Gabriel moved to Brisbane and went on to develop her skills at some
of the city’s best bars over the next two years. It was during this time Gabriel 70 | Hospitality
where she spent five years working Eau De Vie, where she was head
bartender. Today, the bar whiz works for House Made Hospitality, the
group behind Hinchcliff House which encompasses four levels of dining,
drinking and events in the CBD. “I’ve
At just 27 years old, Gabriel admits she has
the building,” says Gabriel.
to her strong work ethic, but it doesn’t mean
have had the privilege to open four bars within
As Bars Manager of Hinchcliff House, Gabriel curates the drinks and cocktail lists for each
concept within the venue, with more to come in the months ahead. “I like being able to create
the guest experience from the second they walk in the door and then see them [leave] and talk about your venue to other people,” she says.
“Word of mouth really inspires me and keeps me going.”
Although there have been ups and downs
during Gabriel’s career in the bar world, the joy of crafting a concept’s offering has provided a
excelled “pretty fast” through the ranks due there haven’t been bumps along the way. In her roles, she has recognised the common
challenges women face in the industry, with the most significant revolving around being underestimated. “It is a male-dominated
industry, and you always have that guest who wants to talk to the male bartender next to
me about whisky, not knowing I taught him
everything he knows,” says Gabriel. “Situations like that [occur] where we’re constantly being
underestimated when we actually might be the most qualified person in the room.”
The bars manager says the viewpoint isn’t
positive challenge. “With a new venue, you have
coming from within the industry, but from the
nothing,” she says. “I’ve helped open about seven
Gabriel believes the best response is to wait for
so much opportunity to create something out of venues now, and it’s definitely been a highlight [of my career]. Those first couple of weeks
where you’re racing to get everything done and then you finally stand back and get to see what you’ve created is a really happy moment.”
customer side of the equation. In such situations, an opportunity to step in and prove yourself to
the person without reacting, hence challenging them to recognise their unconscious bias.
Another challenge Gabriel has identified for
women in the industry is imposter syndrome;
May 2022 | 71
FEATURE // Women in liquor
jumped over to this amazing new company and
FEATURE // Women in liquor
the experience of doubting your own abilities and
being afraid of people discovering you are a fraud or don’t belong in a certain role. It’s an obstacle
Gabriel believes is mostly experienced by women in the bar industry. “I think there’s a gap with
imposter syndrome where we don’t know what
our worth is,” she says. “A male might ask for more
money because they have the confidence to just ask, whereas we constantly underestimate ourselves.
“There’s a gut feeling of, ‘Maybe I’m not worth
that; maybe I’m not good enough’. Just work hard
to prove yourself and know your worth. Everybody is capable of doing the same job and being paid the same … I think it starts with having the
confidence in yourself and knowing you can do it.” In the grand scheme of things, Gabriel is positive about the role of women in the industry and
believes the sector is moving in the right direction as a collective, for the most part. “The right
conversations are happening,” she says. “I think we’re doing everything we can and it will be a
fight to the end. It’s about putting women at the
forefront and … part of the general conversation, which is constantly evolving. It will develop over time and people’s ignorance will get better.” ■
“Everybody is capable of doing the same job and being paid the same.” – Alissa Gabriel
This story has been edited and was originally
published as part of The Shout’s profile series on women working in the liquor industry
72 | Hospitality
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FEATURE // Women in liquor
High flyer
Two Birds Brewing Co-Founder Danielle Allen on launching the country’s first female-founded brewery. WORDS Brydie Allen
74 | Hospitality
Being Australia’s first female-founded brewery
role model in the industry. Allen didn’t start her
why International Women’s Day has been an
Birds Brewing and an extraordinary female
working life in the beer sector and found her
feet in liquor through marketing. In the early
2000s, she got a taste of the industry in a role
at Metcash, where she became familiar with the independent side of retail, followed by a job
at Woolworths around the time private label activity was beginning to take off.
During her marketing roles, Allen was involved
with product development from start to finish and
is something that drives the brand and is
important event for Two Birds for many years. It led to the creation of the limited annual Warrior Woman beer release along with events and a
recent fundraising collaboration with Endeavour Group around the Summer Ale SKU. “It means
justice and dignity, which I think are two great values for us as a business to hold ourselves accountable to,” says Allen.
A move to help lead the beer industry
everything in between. She garnered significant
towards more gender equality has come about
brands and companies in the early stages and
landscape. “As we’ve gotten older, wiser and
knowledge on global routes to market with
gained a solid understanding of how the liquor industry worked.
After touring American craft breweries with
Jayne Lewis, Allen had a lightbulb moment
which would go on to inspire Two Birds Brewing. Lewis had taken on roles at Little Creatures
and Mountain Goat and shared the ambition
of wanting to launch a business. “We realised
with the background and skill set I had, and her brewing skills, we could team up and start a
brewery together,” says Allen. “We launched Two
Birds in 2011, built a brewery in 2014, and we’re still here 10 years later. Obviously, we have a
slightly different structure now we’re part of Lion, but in terms of owning and driving the brand
direction and deciding where it goes, that’s still very much on Jayne and my shoulders.”
with time as Two Birds has become part of the more settled into the business with the brand being more established, it has really been
about driving awareness around equality and diversity and helping lead the conversation down that path,” says Allen. “[But] it was
“Every day, we’re still confronted with people assuming the beer industry is all about men and women don’t participate.” – Danielle Allen
never the objective or the priority of starting a
brewery or a beer brand. Being Australia’s first
female-founded brewery was just about making good beer because why shouldn’t we start a
brewery? Now, we want to not only be a female voice in beer, but to inspire women to have a second think about the industries they might not automatically think they’re allowed to step into.”
It’s why the fundraising initiative with
Endeavour Group is so special, because it’s
intended to provide boots to women who can’t
May 2022 | 75
FEATURE // Women in liquor
DANIELLE ALLEN IS the co-founder of Two
FEATURE // Women in liquor
afford them, but need them for workplace
Allen believes there is still a gap in
safety purposes in industries such as
visibility and opportunities for women
was signing a “groundbreaking” sports
notions of what people think is possible.
brewing. Another defining moment
sponsorship deal with Melbourne AFL
team the Western Bulldogs. It was the first time an independent craft brewery forged a partnership with a major football club and led to Two Birds not only entering
the mainstream, but celebrating women’s
AFL, too. “It was a great alignment of two brands coming together for the greater
good and was when women’s AFL had just started,” says Allen.
From being involved with different
sides of the industry to co-founding a beer brand, Allen has witnessed and
experienced the challenges women face in
in beer based on preconceived ideas and
be “taken seriously”. But she does see
successful business and a voice for
positive change in the works. “There are
some leading women who have done such great work to break some of those biases
down,” says Allen. “There’s a small pocket of the industry that does really well, but it’s about spreading the word into more
mainstream areas around Australia. I’m not sure if there is one big solution or remedy, I think it’s a lot of small efforts and starts with every community and everybody being responsible and accountable.”
One such effort Allen references is Beer
day, we’re still confronted with people
Australian beer industry. The group is
men and women don’t participate; women don’t drink beer and women don’t enjoy
beer,” says Allen. “I think we’re still a long way from breaking down that first basic bias about beer, although we’ve already come a long way.”
76 | Hospitality
for a lack of desire [there are still issues].” Allen is an excellent role model for
challenge of having to work harder to
Agents For Change, a collective of women
assuming the beer industry is all about
right already,” says Allen. “It’s definitely not
On top of this, Allen says there is the
the industry firsthand. One of the greatest revolves around unconscious bias. “Every
people interested in it who are getting it
seeking to lead meaningful shifts in the working on information and resources the industry can use so every business
can create positive codes of conduct and guidelines around gender equality. Allen
women in beer as the co-owner of a positive change. Her advice to other
women in the industry who have similar aspirations is to always stay true to
yourself and your motivations. “People
often say you’ve got to get insights from
as many people as possible, but it’s really important to first have your own vision,
your own objectives and your own goals,”
says Allen. “People will offer you a variety of opinions, and if you’re not 100 per
cent confident and believe in yourself and what you’re doing, it can be easy to [veer off] that path. Being absolutely 100 per
cent authentic to yourself is paramount in starting a business and getting it off the
ground. It’s not going to be easy, nothing
is easy in this world, and it’s not going to fall into your lap.” ■
says it will provide invaluable materials
This story has been edited and was originally
is trying to do better. “There are a lot of
on women working in the liquor industry
to the industry, which for the most part,
published as part of The Shout’s profile series
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5 MINUTES WITH ... // Zoe Brunton
Monopole’s head sommelier on championing French and Australian winemakers. PHOTOGRAPHY Kitti Gould
Zoe Brunton I’VE ALWAYS PAID attention to drinks
I started my way as a sommelier
and beverages. I was a barista from 14 or
when I was about 24. I tried to get into
a busy café in the Sutherland Shire called
tricky at the beginning. It was almost a
15 and by the age of 18, I was managing Grind. I geeked out on coffee; we did
lots of coffee tastings and I always really enjoyed it. There was a lot of palate
training, which was super helpful when I started in wine.
wanted to give me any, so it was frustrating. My favourite types of wines are generally
restaurants and the wine scene, but it was
the ones people don’t really pay attention
protected environment, at least on the
lot of diners don’t know about. People drink
outside, so I went ahead and educated
myself and started pushing, nagging and asking questions.
I began working at Kensington Street
to. There is a whole world out there that a
red wine and are like, “It just tastes like red wine”, but there are a million other things in the glass you can taste.
Monopole exclusively focuses on
Once I got into wine, I stayed on that
Social as a bartender, which was pretty fun.
Australian and French wines, so we’ve
at 17 or so. I was not quite old enough to
and I did some courses, and as luck would
Burgundy selections and Bordeaux, but
pathway. I tried my first wine as a teenager be drinking, but it was Father’s Day, and
my Dad opened a Mount Pleasant Shiraz.
It was 25 years old and decanted and I was like, “Hey can I try some of that?” It was like nothing I’ve had before. 80 | Hospitality
They had a really cool wine program there
have it, a spot opened up on the wine team and I was offered a junior role there.
The team I worked with at Kensington
were great and inclusive, but before, it was like, “You need experience,” and no one
obviously got the classics like all your
there’s quite a few other regions. Savoie in Southeastern France on the Swiss border has some beautiful whites and reds and
there are a couple of producers who are
a little unattainable. Nicole Deriaux from
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5 MINUTES WITH ... // Zoe Brunton
We want the direction of Monopole’s wine offering to be inclusive and educational. Domaine de Montbourgeau is based in Jura and the Bentley Group have quite a lot of wines from Jura in France that are on the cult-y side and come with a high price tag. Her wines are absolutely delicious and are at a better price point for people to access.
A couple of Australian makers have come across my way and
are really interesting when it comes to producers. I can get into a bit of a barrel on the web just finding new people who are
making cool things. Jess Di Giorgio from Bande Apart and Tessa Brown and her partner from Vignerons Schmölzer & Brown at
Beechworth are all making wines that just keep getting better and better each year.
We want Monopole’s wine offering to be inclusive and
educational as well. We obviously have some vintage-age
Bordeaux coming in at a high price, but then we have some
beautiful entry-level stuff, too. We do small offerings by the glass so guests can have a little taste of these wines.
I change the wine list quite a lot to keep it interesting for guests
and myself. We did a wine list for the month of March with all female producers. We were planning on doing a little feature,
but it just didn’t really make sense as there are so many amazing female producers out there, so we gave them a stage and a platform for the whole month.
The reception at Monopole has been really positive. The wine
list at Potts Point had a large international offering, and this has just been really focused. It has given us a chance to hone in on
areas that sometimes get lost on wine lists. We’ve got a couple of
regulars who get excited when there are new wines on the list; it keeps me engaged and on my toes when I’m finding new things for everyone to drink. ■ 82 | Hospitality
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