Hospitality May 2024

SOURDOUGH GARLIC BREAD LOAF

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NO.805

Regulars

8 // IN FOCUS

Master Sommelier Adrian Filiuta on the launch of Hunters Hill Wine Room.

12 // NEWS

The latest openings, books, events, and more.

14 // BAR CART

Thirst quenchers, slow sippers, and all things beverage related.

16 // PRODUCE

Zero-waste plant lovage doesn’t skip on the flavour.

18 // DRINKS

Venues are changing the narrative when it comes to sherry.

22 // PROFILE

Hyoju Park on her Melbourne pâtisserie Madeleine de Proust.

44 // EQUIPMENT

Why the butter knife always has a place on the table.

46 // 5 MINUTES WITH …

Jake Kellie from Adelaide’s Arkhé.

Features

26 // HOSPITALITY TECH

Streamline your business with the latest innovations in the technology space.

32 // FILIPINO BREAKFAST

You won’t find avocado on toast at these venues.

40 // NESTLÉ GOLDEN CHEF’S HAT AWARD

Past competitors share how the experience propelled their culinary careers.

A note from the editor

WELCOME TO THE May edition of Hospitality, this issue we are covering a lot of territory from a madeleine-centric store in Melbourne to the wide world of breakfast dishes enjoyed in the Philippines.

On the beverage front, we revisit sherry with three drinks professionals who are working hard to change the perception of the wine as an option for older generations. There’s also a feature on the opening of Master Sommelier Adrian Filiuta’s Hunters Hill Wine Room in Sydney.

PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au

MANAGING EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au

DEPUTY EDITOR Amy Northcott anorthcott@intermedia.com.au

Filiuta left Merivale after 11 years to launch the store, which is providing customers with a hospitality-centric experience in a retail setting.

On a more personal note, the team has been getting out and about to some of the city’s latest openings — I encourage you to give us a follow on Instagram and TikTok for some dining inspiration.

I hope you enjoy this issue.

Annabelle Cloros

Managing Editor

ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au

GROUP ART DIRECTOR –LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au

PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au CIRCULATIONS To subscribe please call 1800 651 422. hospitalitymag azine.com.au facebook.com/ HospitalityMagazine twitter.com/Hospitalityed instagram.com/hospitalitymag SUBSCRIPTION

FRESH START

Pont Dining Room’s oysters with burnt cucumber and lychee granita.

GRAZE AWAY

One of a kind

A Master Sommelier has opened a boutique wine store in Sydney’s Hunters Hill.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros

ADRIAN FILIUTA IS one of six Master Sommeliers in Australia and one of 273 in the world. The wine professional worked at Merivale as group sommelier for more than 11 years, directing programs for 70-plus venues during his lengthy tenure with the group.

But all good things must come to an end. Filiuta decided to part ways with Merivale in 2022 and venture into a different game — retail. Now, he is the owner of Hunters Hill Wine Room — a boutique destination for wine, spirits, and pre-batched cocktails, too. The Master Sommelier speaks to Hospitality about answering the call of a community that had long been waiting for something different.

When Adrian Filiuta came across a vacant space on Alexandra Street, he knew he had to have it. The store is located inside a heritage building, with the wine professional describing it as “too good to let go”. From the location to the layout, it ticked all the boxes. “It’s halfway between Hunters Hill and Woolwich and there is no competition,” he says.

Filiuta originally wanted to open a wine bar but made the decision to launch a wine store instead. And while he’s well aware he’s not reinventing the wheel with the concept, the focus is on customer experience rather than sales. “I’m selling wine and providing a good service to the community, but my focus is on looking at this with a hospitality lens where you engage with the customer and look after them,”

he says. “It’s not about the transaction of coming in, buying something, and leaving.”

Hunters Hill Wine Room has only been open for a month now, but Filiuta has taken note of the wines that are selling well. “I have seen middle-aged professionals buying Chablis, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay to the younger crowd who are after canned wines and seltzers,” he says. “People have also been coming in with specific requests such as Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley. It’s an educated clientele who have travelled to certain regions of the world. The classics have been selling well, but people are happy to explore. It’s very encouraging.”

Motivating patrons to try something different is part of the Wine Room’s fabric, with customers able to walk in and sample different wines during the week. “It’s an education piece,” says Filiuta. “Within six months, there will be something to taste every day without us having to communicate it to the public.”

Meet the winemaker events are also in the pipeline, with the Master Sommelier looking to spotlight up-and-coming producers locals may not be familiar with. “I am working with a lot of smaller growers of the younger generation, and I want to bring them in so the community can meet the people behind the label,” says Filiuta. “From a customer point of view, there is more awareness now about how makers farm and the stories behind the wines — it’s a hot point.”

As for trending drops and countries of

interest? Filiuta tips Italy as a region that’s in the midst of a resurgence — “there’s a lot going on from north to south” — as well as wines from the Riverland and Murray-Darling here in Australia. “The bulk of wine production used to come from there but now there is a new generation of winemakers exploring the area because the price of grapes is much more affordable. Growers are producing more organic and biodynamic crops and focusing on quality.” There are also some innovations coming out of McLaren Vale, with winemakers taking Grenache grown in sandy soil and producing perfumed, elegant, and fresh wines instead of the heavy drops the variety is associated with.

There are more than 1,000 wines to choose from at the Wine Room as well as batched cocktails and spirits, but Filiuta’s main goal is to create a space where anyone can walk in regardless of their knowledge. “The wine world is vast and sometimes overwhelming for those wanting to dip their toes in,” he says. “I hope to create a more down-to-earth and approachable experience where I can impart my passion and expertise and help make wine exploration enjoyable and enlightening for all.”

As for the future? Filiuta hopes to expand beyond the physical store in the coming months and offer a bespoke drinks service which will take the pressure off hosting. “I am looking into offering beverage services to people doing parties at home, so I would do all the beverages and the glassware, too.”

There’s no doubt Filiuta is providing a unique experience to the local market, one which allows customers to walk into a store and ask a Master Sommelier for a personal recommendation, discover something new, or even just come in for a chat about all things wine. And there’s only one place in Sydney you can do that. ■

“My focus is on experience and looking at this with a hospitality lens where you engage with the customer and look after them.”

– Adrian Filiuta

Entrée

The latest openings, books, events, and more.

EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros

Another Slice

Natalie Paull

$50 ; Hardie Grant Books

The Beatrix Bakes cake shop has been closed for the past two years, but founder Natalie Paull has put pen to paper again to share some of the store’s most-loved recipes that didn’t fit into her first book. Beatrix Bakes

Another Slice is full of recipes for cakes, cookies, tarts, and pies — including the iconic chocolate sour cream layer cake and the lemon cream tart. There are also guides to mastering other dessert components such as honeycomb, toffee, custards, and creams.

Mitch Orr takes over Prince Dining Room

Sydney-based chef Mitch Orr has made his debut in the Melbourne culinary landscape via iconic St Kilda establishment The Prince. Orr is the food and creative director of the venue’s restaurant Prince Dining Room and has redesigned the menu alongside new head chef Ben Parkinson. “I’m excited to bring my food to St Kilda and to become a part of not only the incredible local community, but the wider Melbourne restaurant community,” he says. It marks a new chapter for the venue, which has seen the likes of Andrew McConnell, David Moyle, and Matt Wilkinson lead the kitchen in the past. theprince.com.au

Merivale opens Good Luck Restaurant Lounge

Merivale’s portfolio has a new addition — meet Good Luck Restaurant Lounge. The subterranean venue is located in the historic Burns Philp & Co building in Sydney’s CBD and is helmed by Totti’s Executive Chef Mike Eggert. The chef worked alongside Merivale CEO Justin Hemmes to develop the concept, which is inspired by Eggert’s 2017 pop-up restaurant Good Luck Pinbone. Debut dishes include fire-roasted prawns in tomato miso with chicken skin and cereal crunch along with a fish and prawn sausage dialled up with lime. merivale.com

Photography by Mattia Panunzio

On Sundays

Dave Verheul

$55 ; Hardie Grant Books

Embla’s Dave Verheul is championing long lunches throughout the seasons in a book that encourages readers to cook from the heart.

On Sundays is split into summer, autumn, winter, and spring sections and features recipes designed to share with friends and family over an afternoon. Dishes include poached rainbow trout with artichokes; a chickpea pancake with parsley and Comté, pork rack cooked over fire; and clams with yellow peppers and basil. There’s also a guide to breadmaking and a foreword by Yotam Ottolenghi, who describes the book as a “reminder that the best recipes are often the simplest”.

Etymon Projects’ multi-venue North Sydney precinct

The North Shore dining scene continues to grow with Etymon Projects set to open four venues on Walker Street. Come mid-June, patrons will be able to frequent bakery, café, and wine bar Sol; providore Una; allday dining destination Soluna; and Genzo — a Japanese-inspired bar and eatery. The group’s neighbouring restaurants Poetica and Loulou have been well-received by locals, ultimately paving the way for the new concepts. “We see the precinct becoming a go-to for artisan breads and pastries, gourmet deli goods, and dining,” says Director of Culinary Sebastien Lutaud.

Photography by Steven Woodburn

Nobu tours Australia

Celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa is touring Australia, making appearances at his namesake restaurants in Crown Sydney, Melbourne, and Perth during the first week of this month. Matsuhisa will host a range of ticketed events from a pool party and Gochiso lunch in Sydney to a cocktail party in Perth and a sushi masterclass in Melbourne. “I can’t wait to return to Australia,” he says. “It is a place very close to my heart and I love visiting my team and local suppliers.”

Cafe Morris and Fabbrica team up

Sydney’s Fabbrica is known for its rotating sandwich lineup, and now patrons can enjoy some new additions thanks to a collaboration with Hotel Morris’ Head Chef Rosy Scatigna. The hotel has opened a café which is now serving three sandwich options: a breakfast piadina with scrambled eggs, bacon, and pesto alla Trapanese; a classic muffuletta; and a vegetable panini with goat’s curd, grilled capsicum, zucchini, artichokes, and mint oil. The sandwiches are available for dine-in and takeaway. hotelmorris.com.au

Bar cart

Thirst quenchers, slow sippers, and all things beverage related.

EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros

New look, same taste

Iconic aperitivo spirit Campari is sporting a sleek new design inspired by the brand’s roots in Milan, Italy. The bottle’s minimal look and focus on tapered lines takes its cues from the understated elegance of the city. “Since its creation, the Campari bottle has evolved alongside Milano, continuously drawing inspiration from its resourcefulness and its excitement, traits we feel are deeply bound to the spirit of our brand,” says Paolo Marinoni, marketing director. The bottle is now on shelves at liquor stores for $50. campariau.com

Home soil

Flecha Azul tequila arrives in Australia

There’s a new tequila brand on the market, and this one just happens to be backed by Mark Wahlberg. Flecha Azul tequilas are produced by the Orendain Distillery, which uses Blue Weber agave harvested in Jalisco, Mexico. “This is an authentic Mexican tequila and my goal is for the world to try it,” says Wahlberg. “Australia is a huge step in that direction and we’re so happy to be here.” There are five products in the range including Blanco ($120), Añejo ($160), Reposado ($130), Extra, and Añejo Cristalino. The first three are now available from First Choice Liquor Mart and Vintage Cellars. flechaazultequila.com

23rd Street Distillery knew it had to do something when the team discovered 95 per cent of whisky in the Australian market is imported. Enter Australian Whisky — a locally crafted dram produced in South Australia’s Riverland area. The whisky has aromas of citrus, orange blossom, and caramelised fruit and notes of dark chocolate, roasted nuts, and toffee. “We set out to create a whisky that’s designed to be savoured and enjoyed in the same climate it’s matured in,” says Sarah Camerlengo, brand manager. The dram is best enjoyed over ice and paired with aged hard cheeses. 23rdstreetdistillery.com.au

Hop to it

Independent Tassie producers Moo Brew have ventured into the alcohol-free category with sparkling hop soda Notto Blotto. It’s the first zero-proof drink for the brand, which wanted to create a beverage that remained true to the brewery’s ethos. Notto Blotto is made with sparkling Tasmanian water infused with hops, resulting in a drink with notes of citrus and subtle hop flavours. $12 for a four-pack or $39 for a 16-pack. moobrew.com.au

Savour the flavour

Discover the latest addition to Toby’s Estate’s limited Flavour Savour series — Pandan Waffle. The coffee is inspired by the not-too-sweet treat and features notes of pine lime ice cream, coconut, and melon. The flavours are infused into the coffee beans during the fermentation process, with the roasting team blending them together to create the final product. “We’ve used a combination of melons, tropical [elements], and peach to achieve our final flavour profile,” says Head Roaster Danny Cao. Available in 200g or 1kg bags online and from selected cafés. tobysestate.com.au

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Caramel Topping

Chocolate Friand

Chocolate Mousse

Tastes stronger than celery with hints of anise and parsley

Part of the Apiaceae family with carrot, celery, coriander, and dill

The whole plant can be used

Seeds can be crushed to make salt blends and brines

Lovage

The celery-like herb packs a powerful punch.

WORDS Amy Northcott

Origins

Lovage or Levisticum officinale is part of the Apiaceae family which also includes carrot, celery, coriander, and dill. The perennial herb is believed to have originated in the Middle East before spreading across South-East Asia, North and South America, and Europe. Today, it is widely cultivated across the world for its edible leaves, roots, and seeds.

Growth and harvest

Lovage seeds are best sown in spring. Between 20–25 degrees Celsius is the ideal environment for germination which usually occurs between seven to 21 days. Once seedlings grow 5–10cm tall, they should be moved to larger pots or planted in the ground as they can grow up to 2m in height and 1m in

width. Lovage requires moist, fertile soil and partial shade to full sun. It can take three to five years to fully mature, with some plants living up to 15 years as they are perennials.

Leaves are usually ready to be picked around the 90-day mark. The roots, however, take longer to become edible and should be harvested when the plant is two to three years old. Lovage plants produce small, yellow flowers in clusters at the top of the stem.

Appearance and flavour profile

At first glance, lovage looks like a mix between parsley and celery due to its flat, green leaves and long, thick stalks. It’s a similar story when it comes to flavour, too. Lovage has a comparable profile to celery with added notes of parsley and anise. As it is

quite strong, it should be used sparingly in dishes.

Culinary applications

The whole lovage plant — leaves, root, and seeds — can be used in cooking to bring a fresh, celery-like flavour to dishes. Lovage leaves can be used raw in salads or cooked in soups or stocks. The leaves can also be chopped up and added to poultry and seafood stuffings.

Lovage stems hold a lot of flavour and are usually blanched before being added to salads, stews, and soups. Lovage seeds can be crushed and used in a similar way to celery powder. The seeds are also often used in salt blends and pickling brines as well as on cheese platters as an accompaniment. ■

Golden age

Sherry is shedding its old-world label.

WORDS Amy Northcott

PHOTOGRAPHY Nikki To for Gildas

IT’S SAFE TO say it’s been a while since sherry was a sought-after drink. Perhaps it’s the association with older generations, assumption it’s sickly sweet, or lack of understanding about what it actually is. But drinks professionals around the country have commenced an education piece to show people how much the fortified wine can bring to the table (or the bar). Whether it’s offering a wide range of styles or integrating sherry into cocktails, the public is slowly becoming reacquainted with the beverage.

To find out more, Hospitality speaks with Fink Wine Director Amanda Yallop, Tapavino Group Owner Frank Dilernia, and Dessous Bar Manager Sandra Elizabeth.

Fink and Lennox Hastie swung open the doors to Gildas in Sydney back in 2022. While it makes sense sherry is the star of the pintxos venue, Wine Director Amanda Yallop says spotlighting the beverage wasn’t an easy decision. “We weren’t sure how successful the sherry offering was going to be,” she says. “Before we opened, I said, ‘What sort of cocktails can we make using sherry to make sure [the offering is] always fresh?’”

Yallop believes many drinkers dismiss sherry based on its reputation. “The collective memory of sherry is very long, and people remember it as quite a stuffy, old-lady drink, which is incorrect,” she says. “Sherry goes from very crisp, fresh, and dry to unctuously sweet.” The wine director says sweeter sherry styles may have left a lingering aftertaste for some. “Sherry has a bad reputation for the sweeter styles such as cream sherries, pale sherries, and PX. But the quality of those [styles] is the best I’ve ever seen recently.”

“Most drinkers are familiar with the sweeter style using the Pedro Ximénez grape, but the magic is often found in the drier style of wines.” – Frank Dilernia

It turns out there was no need to worry about the reception of a sherry-centric drinks list, with guests going “crazy” for the offering. The venue has a dedicated sherry menu featuring 20 by-the-glass options and an even larger selection available by the bottle. “There’s so many incredible producers and we like to highlight all our favourites, but it’s much harder than you think to limit it to 20,” says Yallop. The menu is split into Fino, Manzanilla, Amontillado, Palo Cortado, Oloroso, and naturally sweet (Pedro Ximénez or Moscatel).

The selection ranges from dry to sweet, which was important for Yallop who has ensured drinkers can find a style that suits their palate. “It doesn’t matter what your mood is or what you feel like, something’s going to be there for you,” she says. Currently, producers such as Bodegas Tradición, Toro Albala, and Sanchez Ayala are on the by-the-glass list. Guests can also try Australian sherrystyle drops (usually referred to as Apera) from Seppeltsfield and Ravensworth. When it comes to serving sherry, Yallop says to go larger with your glassware. “People classically go very, very small,” says the wine director. “I would look at a very small beer glass or an aromatic white wine glass like a Riesling glass.” Yallop says sherry’s high-alcohol content sees most drinkers sip on the beverage, so they opt for a 60ml pour. All sherry wines are also chilled before serving due to Sydney’s warmer room temperature.

Frank Dilernia from Tapavino Group also believes drinkers are potentially unaware of the wide range of sherry styles, which is something he wants to help change. “Most drinkers are familiar with the sweeter style using the Pedro Ximénez grape, but the magic is often found in the drier styles,” he explains. “They are typically full bodied in character and overwhelmingly dry, which makes them not only wonderful to drink with food but also a great ingredient in cocktails.”

Dilernia and the team have curated extensive sherry offerings across the group’s Sydney venues Tapavino, Balcon, and Born. Each restaurant lists dry and sweet styles of sherry, with Tapavino’s list consisting of around 30 bottles and Balcon’s around 60, which include single-vintage drops and aged varieties.

Just like Gildas, all sherries are served chilled regardless of where they sit on the flavour scale. Dilernia’s glass of choice for sherry is also larger than what is typically used. “We treat our Fino and Manzanilla as wines and not aperitifs, serving 100ml pours in wine glasses — most venues serve much smaller pours,” he says. “I find a larger wine glass allows the wine to develop and you can appreciate the complexity.”

Over in Melbourne, Dessous Bar Manager Sandra Elizabeth is encouraging drinkers to discover different styles of sherry through the venue’s cocktail list. “Sweeter sherries can be a substitute for sugar in your drinks ... they bring sweetness, but also introduce depth and body,” she says. “You’ll also find drierstyle sherries such as Fino and Amontillado in a lot of gin-based cocktails as the combination works really well together.”

Sherry is currently featured in three cocktails at Dessous including a low-ABV highball which teams a crisp, citrusy Australian sherry-style wine with elderflower liquid and the Bright Eyes, which highlights a dry-style Fino sherry teamed with

Gildas has a dedicated sherry menu Tapavino serves all sherries chilled

yellow tomato-infused gin, passionfruit, and bitter curacao. “The sherry is aged for three years and has light undertones of green apple which lifts the overall brightness of the drink,” says Elizabeth. The Too Few Tattoos is Elizabeth’s riff on the Sherry Cobbler, and is “a funky, fruity cocktail consisting of coal-roasted cantaloupes, grappa, sake, and sherry”, says the bartender. “The combination of flavours introduces grassy, sweet, floral, and salty notes to the cocktail.”

Sherry can range from dry to sweet

Dessous uses sherry in a low-ABV highball

Elizabeth advises bartenders get to know the different styles of sherry and taste them side by side. “Manzanilla sherry typically has salty, light floral notes that I like to use to boost salinity in a cocktail,” she says. “Because of its ageing process, Amontillados are good for creating nuttier, dried fruit, and spice profiles.”

The bar talent tips sherry as one of her most reached-for items, and is appreciative of its versatility in flavour and ability to add body to a drink. “When I create a cocktail, I want the flavours to be bold and complex with a pleasant lingering finish, so sherry is a go-to for creating that nice palate weight.”

While offering a variety of styles is key across the board, consumer knowledge and a desire to try something new is playing a large role in the resurgence of sherry. “People are more

“People remember it as quite a stuffy, old-lady drink –which is incorrect.”

– Amanda Yallop

informed than ever before and everybody wants to try something they haven’t had before,” says Yallop. “Sherry has a timeless quality to it, and if anything, it’s more relevant. People love to have something different.”

On the other hand, Dilernia isn’t as confident in sherry becoming popular, but it won’t stop him from serving it at his restaurants. “Unless the venue has a wine bar vibe or is Spanish, the drier wine styles are often overlooked as standalone drinks,” he says. “I’m not sure that’s going to change in the future. However, we will keep doing our best to promote it and it will remain an important part of our beverage list for many years.”

When the time comes to refresh the drinks offering at your venue, consider moving sherry into the limelight, whether it’s served solo or in a cocktail. ■

“Wait, how many subs?” One minute it’s all quiet. Then 26 hungry footy players and their parents are suddenly waiting for a celebratory sandwich, and they all want them toasted. At least the sharpness of your tasty cheddar won’t surprise you. NO SANDWICH ARTISAN LIKES SURPRISES. ESPECIALLY NOT FROM YOUR TASTY CHEDDAR.

Hyoju Park

Madeleine de Proust is chanelling nostalgia via a classic pastry.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros

HYOJU PARK MADE her first madeleine at the age of 14 in an elective high school baking class, with the small, spongy cake making an imprint on the budding pastry chef. Park spent years trying to persuade her parents to let her leave Korea and go to culinary school in London. Long story short, her determination paid off, and what followed was a qualification, a four-year stint at Attica, and the opening of Madeleine de Proust.

Park speaks to Hospitality about why she decided to make the madeleine the focus of her first business, paying homage to the flavours of home, and the efforts that go into making a madeleine look like corn — hint, it’s a three-day process.

Hyoju Park always wanted to be a pastry chef, but selling her parents on the dream took some time. They wanted her to have a back-up plan if a career in hospitality didn’t pan out, so Park attended university in Korea before she got the green light to study culinary arts and management in London.

After she completed her UK studies, Park decided to return to Korea to discover the desserts she grew up with. “I knew how to make Western desserts, but I didn’t know much about Korean desserts,” she says. “These are my roots, so I felt like I needed to learn more.”

Park was equally as interested in fine dining as she was tradition, and went on to secure a position at Mingles, a two Michelin star contemporary Korean restaurant led by Min-goo Kang. It was here where Park was able to fuse together the best of both worlds, plating desserts inspired by the royal court cuisine of the Joseon Dynasty teamed with a modern approach.

A move to Melbourne was next on the cards, with Park working at Ben Shewry’s Attica for four years. The Attica kitchen would be the final stop before she decided to open a venue of her own with partner Rong Yao Soh. The pair decided to focus the business on one of the all-time pastry greats — the madeleine.

It was a concept Melbourne had yet to see, which propelled the couple to move ahead with the idea. “At first I was thinking about doing a pâtisserie, but we wanted to do something different,” says Park. “We spoke to a design company about branding, and they came up with the name Madeleine de Proust which references ‘nostalgic memory’ in French. We felt like this matched with what I wanted to give people, which is desserts that make them think of happy memories when they eat them.”

It’s clear there’s more than meets the eye when you look at the display of madeleines in the Carlton store. There’s everything from a yuzu-glazed number topped with zest to a ssuk (mugwort) option and a Fleur de Mont Blanc filled with chestnut and rum ganache. There are also madeleines in disguise, with the cakes concealed inside shapes of banana, cacao fruit, pistachio, and a husk of corn. “We wanted people to feel like they are eating edible jewellery,” says Park. “They can treat themselves or give them to other people as a gift.”

The current range of madeleines consists of 12 or so options, each of which has undergone a lengthy development process. “The recipes are very delicate,” says Park. “You always need to test five to 10 times ... baking is very scientific.”

Some take longer than others to make, with the more intricate designs created over a three-day period. Take the corn madeleine, which was inspired by family holidays spent in Gangwang-do, which is famous for its corn. “We had sticky corn every time and it’s a happy memory I wanted to share with Melbourne people,” says Park, who was also inspired by the iconic Korean cornshaped ice cream. “It has wafer on the outside and vanilla corn ice cream with pieces of corn on the inside.”

The process begins with baking the madeleines that are left to cool before they’re filled with a cream cheese mixture on day two. They are then frozen before ganache is applied and the kernels are individually piped on one by one. The madeleines go back into the freezer before they’re sprayed with chocolate on day three.

The pistachio is equally labour-intense. Whole nuts are roasted before they’re put into a stone grinder for six to 12 hours until a silky texture is achieved. The paste is seasoned with sea salt

“We wanted people to feel like they are eating edible jewellery.” – Hyoju Park

PROFILE // Hyoju Park

The moulds are custom made in Japan

Madeleines can last up to three days

An injeolmi flavour is in the works

Earl grey is one of the most popular options

and complemented by raspberry jam and pistachio cream before the madeleine is dipped in white chocolate and sprayed in the colours of the original nut it was made from. “I have never tried something that has such a strong pistachio flavour,” says Park. “It’s very rich, but balanced.”

Interestingly, a more classic flavour profile has proven to be one of the top sellers — the brown butter and honey madeleine. “It is similar to a traditional madeleine,” says Park. But instead of burning butter, the team caramelises milk powders to create a nutty, milky flavour that’s combined with organic honey from Tasmania. “It’s very floral and not too sweet.”

Each madeleine is made from premium ingredients such as Maldon salt, New Zealand butter, Tasmanian leatherwood honey, Japanese flour, and Valrhona chocolate. Ssuk is imported from Korea and yuzu from Kochi, Japan. Showcasing these ingredients has provided an opportunity for the team to bring something new to a market that may not be familiar with these products, let alone in madeleine form.

But informing and pleasing people at the same time is a doubleedged sword. “The hardest part is making sure all customers are satisfied,” says Park. “Some people have never tried mugwort before, so we always let them smell it first. Some customers also like heavier madeleines, and ours are much lighter because we don’t want them to be too full after having one. We want them to enjoy the other options. Educating people is one of the most difficult things.”

The store produces between 250–300 madeleines on weekdays and also bakes traditional madeleines on weekends for $4. “Some people think it’s expensive so we do this on weekends so everyone can come — customers like that we have different ranges and price points,” says Park.

Madeleine de Proust launched to much fanfare in November last year, with the business selling out every day since it opened. Park is well aware the store can’t keep up with demand, but is determined to stick to an ethos of quality over quantity. “We want to keep a high standard, so we try to limit the numbers and focus on the details,” she says. It’s a thoughtful and considered approach that’s sure to inspire people to savour the moment, and a few madeleines, too. ■

Hospitality tech

The latest innovations to boost efficiency in the workplace.

THERE’S NO QUESTION technology plays an integral role in the success of a hospitality business. From tailoring rosters and integrating POS with bespoke food delivery platforms to compliance management and everything in between, there is a lot to think about.

But it’s important operators make the time to research the market and invest in platforms that make life easier — running a venue is stressful as it is, so why not streamline where you can?

Hospitality has rounded up some of the top players in the tech landscape that are offering useful services that are sure to boost efficiency in the workplace.

Foodifox

Foodifox designs, builds, and runs software and hardware solutions for food delivery. The business deploys services that provide food access, enjoyment, and ease of use for diners and caterers, which is fundamental to the design.

The Self-Serve product allows caterers and hospitality specialists to prepare meals and deliver them to secure thermal food lockers. Customers can then pick up meals and consume them at their convenience.

UNSW identified a need to better serve university students with hot meals on demand and not just at allocated mealtimes. The deployment of Self-Serve has provided students with a secure, convenient solution for their late-lunch and late-dinner needs.

The benefits are widespread: students are able to access more enjoyable meals, caterers can exact quality control, and UNSW benefits from providing an innovative tech service that creates an improved student experience.

Self-Serve can provide these benefits at a range of locations including hospitality event spaces, in-stadia, or any area where dining convenience is valued. foodifox.com

Deputy

Deputy is a one-stop platform for managing your hospitality workforce with ease. The platform provides multiple services from rostering staff in minutes using intuitive apps to tracking employee hours, approving timesheets, and ensuring the correct awards are paid thanks to software that is loaded with updated modern award rates.

With Deputy, you can create and share employee rosters in a few clicks, swap shifts without the usual hassle, and even record employee wellness before each shift. Staff can also use Deputy to set their availability, apply for leave, and access the company news feed, ensuring they don’t miss any important messages from management.

You can learn more about Deputy and start a free trial today at deputy.com.au

Airline

SaucedIt

SaucedIt revolutionises compliance management for hospitality operators, offering a comprehensive solution covering various aspects that are crucial to the industry’s regulatory adherence. From wages and licensing to work safety and gaming compliance, SaucedIt ensures every facet of operational compliance is addressed efficiently.

At the core of SaucedIt’s functionality lies an intuitive track dashboard that provides operators with real-time insights into their compliance status. The dashboard highlights any non-compliant employees and outstanding issues, enabling proactive management and swift resolution.

Moreover, SaucedIt streamlines rostering and wages compliance, aligning seamlessly with Fair Work Australia standards and ensuring staffing processes not only meet regulatory requirements, but optimise workforce management for enhanced efficiency and cost-effectiveness.

With SaucedIt, hospitality operators can navigate the intricate landscape of compliance with confidence knowing their business is supported by a robust platform designed to simplify and streamline regulatory obligations. saucedit.com

Ordermentum

Hospitality is all about people and connection, but many operators don’t get to experience the good stuff because they’re too busy with paperwork and crunching numbers. To combat this, venues and wholesalers are using Ordermentum, a digital platform designed to connect venues and suppliers to create a thriving, sustainable hospitality industry.

Ordermentum has a user-friendly app that allows venues to order and pay suppliers in one place. Venues can connect with and find new suppliers, create automated standing orders, and receive text reminders to ensure they’re on top of ordering.

Suppliers enjoy multiple benefits from centralising customers and receiving automatic payments for improved cashflow to reduced admin, a digital catalogue that can be personalised for different customers, and the ability to increase leads without lifting a finger.

The core idea behind Ordermentum is that tech and AI can be utilised so we can be more human. Tech is key for creating a sustainable, financially viable future for our industry. Ordermentum is the easiest way to digitise the operations of any wholesaler or venue — more than 40,000 venues around the country agree. ordermentum.com

Photography by Ali Nasseri

Doshii

Doshii brings hospitality apps together and gets them talking to Australia’s leading point-of-sale systems. For venues, that means less double-handling, admin, and confusion and more time to do what they do best. For their customers, it means a more satisfying and seamless experience.

With Doshii, you can reduce mistakes and double handling by sending your online app orders to your POS; save time by managing menus for a range of online ordering apps in one place; and sync reservations and rostering apps with your POS for smoother service and optimised staffing.

Doshii has you covered with an extensive range of Australian hospo app integrations which come in a variety of categories. From ordering, rostering, and reservations apps to payments and venue operations, Doshii has apps to suit every aspect of your business’ needs. doshii.com

Smart Hospitality

The new Smart Hospitality app by CommBank will transform the way you handle customer payments.

Once integrated, Smart Hospitality gets detailed order data flowing from your POS through to the Smart Terminal. No more running back to the POS to update customer orders. Customers can also split their bills by item, saving time for staff, removing complex calculations, and eliminating errors.

Each customer can leave a tip for their share of the bill, so tips are not lost in the payment process. You can also customise the tip percentage amounts displayed on each terminal.

A comprehensive, one-touch Sales Overview report makes end-of-day effortless. Generate figures for your whole venue from a single terminal at the touch of a button. commbank.com.au/business/payments/hospitality.html

Qiki-Pay

Square

Square’s all-in-one POS system allows hospo businesses to take payments and serve customers their way. With Square, you can accept all types of payments quickly and securely, whether you’re tableside, behind the counter, online, or on the go.

Square goes way beyond just payments. It builds the tools you need to help run and grow your business. This includes inventory counts and invoices, staff rostering, franchise management, and organising back of house with the kitchen display system. What’s more, Square’s integrated eCommerce platform enables you to unlock revenue opportunities with online sales.

With Square’s flexible blend of sleek, compact, and streamlined hardware and software solutions, hospo businesses can scale up their point-of-sale technology as their business evolves. From the portability of Square Terminal to the convenience of Square Register’s customer display screen, there’s something for every hospo business.

Square’s simple, transparent pricing means you always know what you’ll pay, with no hidden fees or mandatory lock-in contracts.

squareup.com

Elevate your hospitality experience with Qiki-Pay’s fee-free EFTPOS, ensuring steady cash flow through to next-day settlements, even on weekends. Qiki-Pay abolishes terminal rental fees, offering significant savings which allows you to focus on superior customer service. With 24–7 support from a Melbourne-based team, you’re guaranteed smooth operations.

Standout features of Qiki-Pay includes seamless integration with more than 700 POS systems, enhancing operational efficiency, and ensuring compatibility with your existing setup. This integration streamlines transactions, improving customer experience.

Benefit from our system’s no terminal rental fees, free receipt rolls, and an intuitive online transaction portal for comprehensive transaction management. Moreover, your business earns airline partner reward points for transactions processed through our terminals, adding value to every transaction.

Qiki-Pay is not just a payment solution; it’s a growth partner for your hospitality business, committed to innovation and cost-efficiency. Join the many businesses thriving with Qiki-Pay EFTPOS. Contact us to tailor our system to your needs and propel your business to success in the hospitality sector. ■

Strong start

Hospitality speaks to Filipino eateries that are sharing a slice of home via the breakfast menu.

Words Amy Northcott

FOR MOST OF us in Australia, breakfast is the first and arguably most important meal of the day. But over in the Philippines, breakfast plays a much larger role in daily life. “Breakfast is more than just a meal — it is a celebration of family and togetherness,” says Arone Dizon, owner and chef of Lazza. “Imagine waking up to a table with delicious breakfast dishes that are meant to be shared by the whole family — that is the essence of the Filipino breakfast experience.”

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“We don’t shy away from the big, bold flavours of our silog even early in the morning — it is something you don’t normally see in cafes and coffee shops.” –Rigibelle Montalban

Dizon is part of a rising group of Filipino chefs who are looking to share the sentiment with Australian diners through traditional breakfast menus where you won’t find the usual avocado on toast. Hospitality speaks with Dizon and Rigibelle Montalban from Descanso about the nuances of breakfast dishes.

Rigibelle Montalban opened Australian–Filipino café Descanso in Sydney’s Inner West with her business and life partner Wilbur around seven years ago. At the time, Filipino breakfast dishes were not easy to find, which prompted the venue to test the offering before making it a permanent fixture. “We started with just two dishes because we just wanted to see how the locals would receive it,” says Montalban. “Surprisingly, they were quick to try and liked it. They were curious about what we traditionally eat for breakfast in the Philippines and that got us inspired to expand our offering.”

Fast-forward to today, and the Descanso breakfast menu now lists an array of traditional dishes from across the Philippines. Montalban has focused on meals from the areas of Central Visayas and Southern Mindanao where she grew up. “A few of the dishes are recipes from my mum and grandma and we try to keep them as traditional as possible,” she says. “We do what we can to keep the taste as close to how we do it in our country using local produce.”

One dish is an eggplant omelette called tortang talong which is a classic breakfast item across the Philippines. Each area has its own riff on the dish, with Montalban’s version inspired by the plates she enjoyed growing up. “The way we cook our eggplant is on a charcoal grill,” she explains. “It may look simple and basic, but I make sure it has the right aromatics and smoky flavour.” The omelette also contains onion and capsicum and is served with rice and salad.

Sisig originates from the Pampanga region in Luzon, and is a meat-based dish with pork cheek, ear, belly, and internal organs. But Montalban and the team went down a different route for their version, which retains the dish’s original flavour. “When we decided to put sisig on the menu, we knew we had to shy away from the traditional ingredients,” she says. “So we chose pork belly that is well-marinated, roasted, and then sautéed.” The pork belly is accompanied by lime, chilli, and soy. “We wanted the roasted pork belly to be the signature taste of the dish, so we kept the rest of the ingredients simple.”

Another popular dish is adobo, which is perhaps the most familiar option for non-Filipino diners. “A Filipino menu is not complete without our unofficial national dish,” says Montalban. Adobo sees a slow-cooked protein — usually chicken or pork — marinated in vinegar, soy, garlic, and other spices. But Montalban admits the Descanso version has its own flair. “We chose to use a mix of chicken and pork, which is something most Filipinos are not used to. Since adobo is unique in every household, we made

ours somewhat different by mixing the two meats together.”

A large part of the Descanso breakfast menu is comprised of variations of silog which is a traditional breakfast dish. “[The name] silog comes from combining sinangag (fried rice) and itlog (fried egg),” explains Montalban. “A silog meal will always come with fried rice and egg, but the meat that comes with it varies.” The choice of protein is reflected in the dish’s title, with Descanso offering beef, chicken, pork sausage, or fish. “If the meal comes with tapa (beef) it will be called tapsilog, or if it comes with longganisa (pork sausage), it will be called longsilog.”

Lazza is located in Sydney’s Marrickville and has recently added breakfast to its core offering. The menu is made up of dishes Filipino-born team members have enjoyed throughout their lives. “We are passionate about sharing the classic Filipino breakfasts we grew up with, both the familiar favourites many Filipinos miss and the exciting discoveries for non-Filipinos to explore,” says Arone Dizon. “These are the dishes that make us feel like we’re back home.”

Silog forms a large part of Lazza’s breakfast offering. “We offer tapa (marinated beef), tocino (sweet cured pork), bangus (milkfish), longganisa (pork sausage), and our signature Lazza crispy pork sisig,” says Dizon. “We also add our home-made atchara (Filipino pickled unripened papaya) to go along with all the dishes.” For those in need of a substantial meal,

Silog is fried rice and an egg served with a protein

Tortang talong is a traditional eggplant omelette

Breakfast is a family occasion in the Philippines

Kapeng Barako is a strong style of coffee bean grown in the Philippines

there’s the ‘mixsilog’ which Dizon describes as the “breakfast of champions” which features garlic rice, a fried egg, and a combination of bangus, tocino, tapa, and longganisa.

The venue’s ‘lugaw overload’ is another must-order, which sees the traditional porridge-like rice lugaw topped with chicharon bulaklak (deep-fried ruffled fat made from pig mesentery), crispy tofu, and lechon kawali (deep-fried pork belly). The dish also includes unlimited lugaw refills. “This warm meal hits the spot especially during cold days and nights,” says Dizon.

Drinks-wise, all the dishes on Lazza’s breakfast menu are served with unlimited Kapeng Barako coffee refills. Barako is Tagalog for a male stud bull or wild boar and references the strong flavour of the coffee which is grown in the Philippines. “We make sure we support local Filipino farmers,” says Dizon. “Traditionally, the coffee is served black to experience the full-bodied flavour, but we also have some sweeteners and milk.”

While the Filipino breakfast offering may look a bit different to eggs on toast, Montalban hopes its uniqueness will catch the attention of Australian diners. “We are not afraid to put a healthy serving of protein and carbohydrates on our breakfast plate,” says the chef and owner. “We don’t shy away from the big, bold flavours of our silog even early in the morning — it is something you don’t normally see in breakfast cafés and coffee shops.”

While the ingredients and flavour profiles might differ between Australian and Filipino breakfasts, warming hospitality is at the core of both offerings. “Filipino breakfast is not just a meal, it is a memorymaker,” says Dizon. “It will make your heart warm and your tummy full and bring you back to your childhood … we want that nostalgic feeling and warmth to be enjoyed here in Sydney.” ■

“Imagine waking up to a table with delicious breakfast dishes that are meant to be shared by the whole family – that is the essence of the Filipino breakfast experience.”

– Arone Dizon

Nestlé Golden Chef’s Hat Award

Dylan Sanding, executive chef, Melbourne Cricket Ground

Competed: 2007–2010

My advice is to be patient, learn your craft, practice, absorb information, and build your confidence. I see a lot of fresh faces going 100km an hour and wanting their dream job in a short period of time. Enjoy the entry into hospitality and the dream job will eventually happen with hard work and dedication. Find a mentor you trust who will provide you with information and knowledge and teach you to be the best version of the chef you want to be. Be curious and ask questions as there is so much knowledge to gain from people in hospitality.

The Nestlé Golden Chef’s Hat Award gave me the confidence as a young chef to work collaboratively and network. The competition opened many doors for me and paved the way to where I am today. It gave me the confidence in my ability to cook and to create dishes regardless if they were good or not. Being involved with the program encouraged me to network and learn from many people in the industry.

Alumni of the esteemed culinary competition share their advice and stories on how the experience was a springboard for their careers.

Telina Menzies, group executive chef, Australian Venue Co.

Competed: 2001–2003

My advice is to get involved and submerge yourself into everything the industry has to offer. You’ll make connections and relationships that will open plenty of doors to get you started. A light-hearted motto I like to still use is, “Fake it till you make it baby”. Because even if you don’t feel ready, it’s all about learning and experience — never let the fear of failure hold you back.

I took part in the Nestlé Golden Chef’s Hat Award three times and ended up being a national finalist. It puts you on a stage to get noticed and performing under pressure is a key thing you take away.

In 2023 I had a full-circle moment, having the honour of judging the Nestlé Golden Chef’s Hat Award finals. I witnessed the up-and-coming talent and met many passionate young chefs. It was an experience I won’t forget.

I live and breathe what I do. It’s not just a job — it’s my absolute passion. I get inspired to make every day better than the last and I am driven by training and developing the next generation of chefs. Working with the entire Nestlé Golden Chef’s Hat Award team reinvigorated the passion and love for what I do. Being a part of and being surrounded by industry legends and upcoming chefs is incredibly inspiring.

Ashleigh Otto, head pastry chef, Pullman Cairns International

Competed: 2015, 2016, 2017

The best career advice I can give is to be a sponge and absorb as much knowledge as you can — there’s something new to learn every day. For me, competitions are for surrounding myself with other driven and creative minds and to create networks and friendships.

I will remember my Nestlé Golden Chef’s Hat Award experience for life. The level of accomplishment after competing is one of the most rewarding feelings. The first time I competed, we gained a silver medal at regionals. I went back and competed a second and third time and won gold medals both times. I was then scouted to join the Australian national youth team to compete internationally at the Culinary Olympics.

The Nestlé Golden Chef’s Hat Award not only fuels a passion for cooking, but it teaches you discipline, time management, and how to refine your details and palate. A lot is learned and gained through repeat training and honing that training during service.

Jessica Roe, sous chef and acting chef de cuisine, Bistro Guillaume

Crown Perth

Competed: 2023

I was always tentative about competing or putting myself on the frontline, but taking that chance has definitely accelerated my career.

The Nestlé Golden Chef’s Hat Award experience was such a turning point for me.

The support and encouragement the other competitors gave each other shows how supportive the industry can be and how willing people are to help each other. I feel like that is what really encompasses the Nestlé Golden Chef’s Hat Award: it’s built to boost young chef’s careers and give them the opportunity to make connections within the culinary field.

The biggest thing I took away from the experience was that food doesn’t have to be fancy. Yes, it definitely helps, but without the flavour understanding and balance, you’ve already lost half the points. I feel it’s important for young chefs coming up to see amazing dishes and take the time to understand the basics of flavour before trying to advance to technical components.

Kimberly Tang, sous chef, Chef’s Table by Azabu Group Competed: 2021

My advice is to ask questions. It’s important to understand as much as you can before jumping into the deep end. Nestlé Golden Chef’s Hat Award offers chefs the chance to receive feedback from experienced judges. The constructive criticism can help chefs identify areas for improvement and learn from their mistakes, ultimately helping them grow and become better at their craft.

I made many close friends and networked with judges and mentors. Building a network can lead to future job opportunities, collaborations, and mentorship. It established my name in the industry and built my confidence. I gained invaluable experience and nurtured my career progression with the creative skills I learned creating dishes from scratch.

The experience has also refined my culinary skills. The Nestlé Golden Chef’s Hat Award competition themes and constraints on ingredients and sustainability pushed me to think laterally to develop creative techniques. Winning or even participating in chef competitions brings publicity for chefs. This exposure can elevate our profiles in the culinary world, attract potential clients or employers, and increase our credibility as skilled professionals.

Sarah Jones, sous chef, Morphettville Racecourse

Competed: 2017–2024

As an apprentice, I struggled to find what path I wanted to go down. But all I knew was that I had my heart set on becoming a chef. Competing in the Nestlé Golden Chef’s Hat Award has absolutely helped shape my career.

Since completing a four-year apprenticeship, I worked hard as a casual chef for a year across three different workplaces. I then secured a fulltime position as a demi chef where I ran a 60-pax restaurant at The National Wine Centre. I have since climbed the ranks higher and am now sous chef at the Morphettville Racecourse, feeding more than 2,000 people a week and managing my own kitchen team. I did all of this while competing in the Nestlé Golden Chef’s Hat Award. My time as a competitor helped my confidence as an individual as well as the quality and finesse of my food.

My advice for other up-and-coming professionals would be to give the Nestlé Golden Chef’s Hat Award a crack! I have personally learned so many new skills and techniques over the years and it has encouraged me to push myself to the absolute limits. You are only competing against yourself, and there’s no one better to beat than who you were one year ago.

Round point ensures bread is not torn

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AUSTRALIAN MADE

COME TALK TO US ABOUT OUR AUSTRALIAN MADE PRODUCTS

Jake Kellie

PHOTOGRAPHY Duy Huynh

WORKING WITH DAVE Pynt at Singapore’s Burnt Ends was a pivotal moment in my culinary career, and was where I discovered cooking with fire. I knew I was working with the best in the game, and I learned the importance of really investing in your team, leading by example, and doing all you can to inspire and guide those around you.

I found my niche in cooking over fire and it is the foundation of Arkhé. Fire is natural, so you can never think you’ve mastered it — you’re constantly learning, and occasionally, improvising.

For me, a shift at work means standing over a 700-degrees Celsius fire for around eight hours. We don’t use any gas or electricity — it’s all flame. Fire creates a flavour profile which I believe makes everything taste better. Most of the dishes on our menu have been kissed by flames in some way whether it’s the parfait tartlet a la Burnt Ends that has been torched; the steak that has been taken on and off the flame for an hour to reach perfection; or the charred macaron dessert.

Since its inception, Arkhé has been a platform for collaboration, and I love the opportunity, inspiration, and invigoration that comes from a great team-up. We saw an opportunity to take this to a larger scale and the concept of Arkhé & Friends was born.

The campaign spans one year with one chef collaboration each month. Our first event was in April with Ben Milgate and Elvis Abrahanowicz from Sydney’s Porteño and May is with Jemma Whiteman from Sydney’s Ante.

The line-up is being announced over the course of the campaign, however there are some names I know people are going to get really excited about. I think our international chefs, such as Vaughan Mabee from New Zealand’s Amisfield and James Lowe from London’s Lyle’s, are going to excite a lot of people. It’s an opportunity to check out the cooking of some of the world’s best international talent without having to leave Australia.

We are lucky enough to have Laphroaig’s whisky integrated in some way at each event, and no two [services] will be the same. We are working closely with each visiting chef to create something completely bespoke. Our guests can expect innovation, excitement, and top-notch food and drinks. I feel really lucky to have such a strong group going into it with me. We’re going to learn a lot from these collaborations, and I look forward to seeing the heights we can reach. ■

The Arkhé chef on cooking with fire and the importance of collaborations.

TO G ETHER WE GROW

What makes McCain’s fresh, quality produce taste so good?

Whether it’s fresh potatoes, Aussie communities or a sustainable future, McCain is proud to help locals grow by helping businesses serve the absolute best home-grown produce.

Find out how we’re growing at mccainfoodservice.com.au