NO.768 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020
CONDIMENT LINES • KEAT LEE • NIGERIAN • 2021 TRENDS
CONTENTS // November/December
Contents NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020
16
Regulars 6 // IN FOCUS The science of food pairing. 12 // NEWS The latest openings, books, products and more. 14 // PRODUCE It’s zucchini flower season. 16 // BEST PRACTICE A guide to outdoor dining. 22 // COLUMN Little Bao’s May Chow on handling the pandemic in Hong Kong.
2 | Hospitality
30
26 // DRINKS Australia has a long way to go when it comes to tea. 30 // PROFILE Keat Lee is behind one of Melbourne’s buzziest restaurants. 66 // BEHIND THE SCENES The Full Elephant’s fish in the garden. 68 // EQUIPMENT Whip up toasties in minutes with a press. 70 // 5 MINUTES WITH … Coogee Wine Room’s Bhatia Dheeraj.
44
Features 34 // TRENDS A projection of the food and beverage trends you’ll be seeing in 2021. 44 // NIGERIAN Bringing the multifaceted cuisine to Sydney. 50 // CONDIMENTS Jarred goods are great for customers and operators alike. 58 // FLATBREAD A look at one of the staples of myriad cuisines.
perfect hold, great yield
for more information on our Imitation cream range visit www.bullafoodservice.com.au for sales enquiries please contact your state representative VIC & SA - 0432 404 843 | NSW - 0439 111 442 | QLD - 0438 786 140 | WA - 0430 468 820
EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello
Social
Keep up with the Hospitality team
NOSE-TO-TAIL APPROACH Nik Hill is headlining The Milan Cricket Club pop-up at La Rosa. My pick is definitely the Pig Mac. @annabellecloros
Forward thinking IT’S HARD TO believe you’re holding
beverage trends and compiled a list
the last print edition of Hospitality for
of the heavy hitters. Outdoor dining
2020 (don’t worry; we’ll be keeping
will be of the utmost importance for
you updated on our digital platforms).
permitted venues across many states,
It’s been quite a year, to say the least.
so we’ve put together a resource list
But the fabric that holds the hospitality
to help.
industry together is stronger than ever.
This issue, we also profile Chef Keat
Operators and staff have been faced
Lee who opened his restaurant less
with some unthinkable challenges, but
than six months before the pandemic
innovation and the drive to keep the
hit, talk to Little Lagos’ Ade Adeniyi
wheels turning has demonstrated the
about Nigerian cuisine and cover all
true resilience of the community. And at
things condiments in the lead up to
long last, restaurants across the country
the festive season.
are able to serve guests on real plates —
I hope you enjoy this issue.
welcome back, Melbourne. There’s no saying what 2021 will bring, but we’ve combed over food and
LONGRAIN RETURNS The iconic Melbourne restaurant has reopened for trade under Scott Pickett. @hospitalitymagazine
Annabelle Cloros
BEYOND BORDERS I’ve been labouring over old family favourites to help ease COVID-19-induced homesickness. @madeline.woolway
Editor
Follow us @hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au JOURNALIST Madeline Woolway T: 02 8586 6194 mwoolway@intermedia.com.au
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4 | Hospitality
IN FOCUS // Food pairing
How Foodpairing works
AROMA MOLECULES, DESCRIPTORS AND TYPES
This dense perceptual web reveals striking
a system for classifying scents based on aroma types and their descriptors. With
To visualise the aromatic links between
molecules, some of which we split into
this ‘language of scent’, we can describe
different odorants, we created a virtual
separate groupings, such as green and
and create visualisations for the aroma
three-dimensional space to model the
vegetable. Altogether, we have identified 14
profiles of all the ingredients and products
connections between all 10,000 aroma
separate categories of aroma types that we
we encounter.
molecules in the Foodpairing database.
use to describe the broad range of scents
AT FOODPAIRING, WE have developed
6 | Hospitality
similarities between certain clusters of
ingredients. These aroma types have been
FRUITY
FLORAL
HERBAL
CARAMEL
NUTTY
SPICY
further divided into subcategories of descriptors according to the base scent of each molecule (to view the entire odour network, visit odournetwork.foodpairing.com). Every aroma molecule has its own distinct base scent. For example, pineapples contain methyl hexanoate, an odorant with a base scent that smells like the fruit. After analysing an ingredient, we look at which volatile compounds register above the odour recognition threshold and then identify the base scents of the various aroma molecules so that we can assign
Esters play a key role in the aroma profiles
Lemons, limes, grapefruit and gooseberries
the individual molecules to the appropriate
of many fruits such as strawberries, bananas,
contain mostly citrusy notes, which are also
descriptor groups.
pineapples and other tropical fruits. Depending
present in ingredients like coriander seeds,
on the concentration, lactones can have a
lemongrass and lemon balm.
base scent of an aroma molecule: when we
peachy or coconut smell and are found in fruits,
• Citrus, grapefruit, lemon, orange
use the label ‘pineapple’ as a descriptor,
milk, cheeses and other dairy products.
it means that all the molecules within that
• Apple, banana, berry, coconut, fruity, grape,
descriptor group have a distinct pineapple
peach, pineapple, tropical
The descriptor labels tell us about the
smell. Altogether we have identified a total of 10,000 aroma molecules that we have
Green smells range from cucumber-ish to fatty (like olive oil), from freshly mowed grass to waxy (like orange peel), depending
Beta-damascenone, beta-ionone and
on the concentration of aldehydes. Milled
classified into 14 different aroma types
(Z)-1,5-octadien- 3-one are responsible for
grains also contain green volatile compounds
and 70 descriptors in the Foodpairing
the intoxicating fragrances of roses, violets
that smell like oat flakes, while epoxides give
database. This classification allows us to
and geraniums, while also lending their
seaweed a metallic note.
make a visualisation of the flavour profile
floral notes to ingredients like apples, pears,
• Cucumber, fatty, grass, green, oat flakes, waxy
of an analysed ingredient, across all
raspberries and sweet potatoes.
product groups.
• Floral, geranium, honey, rose, violet
Pyrazines, 1-octen-3-one and methianol are largely responsible for the vegetal odours
THE FOODPAIRING METHODOLOGY
Menthol and thymol give fresh mint and
of bell peppers, mushrooms and potatoes.
The premise that ingredients that share the
thyme their distinct herbal notes.
Alliums and brassicas contain sulphurous
same key defining aroma molecules taste
• Herbal, mint, thyme
volatile compounds. Cooking creates new
good together is the scientific basis of our creative methodology. Any ingredients that
sulphurous, potato- and mushroom-scented Compounds like furaneol, maltol and
aroma molecules.
share a subset of aroma molecules will have
sotolon are charactertised by the sweet
• Bell pepper, cabbage, celery, garlic,
some overlap, and therefore combine well.
caramellic smell of caramelised sugar and
mushroom, onion, potato
The science of Foodpairing begins with an aroma analysis of an ingredient or product.
maple syrup. • Caramel, maple
The pairing selections generated from these profiles are based on a selection of key
The Maillard reaction causes new volatile compounds to form that smell roasted or
Benzaldehyde is the character impact
popcorn-like. Some roasted descriptors
odorants with concentrations high enough so
compound in almond extract, while the
smell malty or coffee-like, whereas
that we can perceive them.
intoxicatingly sweet hay-like fragrance of
pyrazines and geosmin have more of an
tonka beans comes from coumarin. Ketones
earthy scent.
and pairing grids, which serve as visual
provide hazelnuts with their distinctive smell.
• Coffee, earthy, fried, malty, popcorn, roasted
references for the key components that
• Hazelnut, nutty, tonka
In the book, you will find aroma wheels
characterize an ingredient’s aroma profile.
Some ingredients contain woody-scented Many of the warm notes in spices come
terpenes and pinenes (pine). Using wood
Foodpairing’s aroma types
from aroma molecules like cinnamaldehyde,
to grill meat, fish or any other ingredients
Each of the ingredients featured in this book
cuminaldehyde, eugenol (cloves) and vanillin.
will impart the same woody, smoky flavours,
is classified and described according to our
Camphor and estragole (anise) offer more
whereas the process of cold-smoking fish
system of 70 aroma descriptors, which are
refreshing notes.
or meats infuses their flesh with phenolic
grouped into 14 key aroma types, ranging
• Anise, camphor, cinnamon, clove, cumin,
compounds.
from fruity to chemical.
pungent, spicy, vanilla
• Balsamic, phenolic, pine, smoky, woody November/December 2020 | 7
IN FOCUS // Food pairing
found in the aroma profiles of different
IN FOCUS // Food pairing
CITRUS
GREEN
VEGETABLE
ANIMAL
ROASTED
WOODY
CHEESY
CHEMICAL
Cream, butter and ripe cheeses all contain cheesy notes. Vinegars and fermented dairy
CONTRASTING TEXTURES
products like yoghurt, buttermilk and sour cream contain other cheesy and acidic
The elements of a dish
volatile compounds.
Balancing aromas, tastes and
• Acidic, buttery, cheesy, creamy
textures adds depth and dimension to your dishes.
Strong animal-like odours are associated with meat-based stocks and ingredients like venison or fish. Liver contains the aroma
Complement aromas
molecule indole, which can smell faecal, earthy, phenolic, perfumy or even floral. Skatole has a similar animal-like odour, described as smelling faecal or like a civet. liking
• Animal, fishy, meaty Burnt, musty, petroleum, soapy and solvent (as in paint or glue) are some of the
Perceived complexity
descriptors used to describe the undesirable
perceived complexity
off-odours that develop as a result of improper storage or poor packaging. • Burnt, dusty, petroleum, soapy, solvent
FROM PAIRING INGREDIENTS TO DELICIOUS DISHES
after repeated exposure
Aromatic complexity
first exposure
Foodpairing makes it easy to discover new ingredient pairings based on their aromatic matches, but that is not all there is to creating tantalising dishes that will pique your palate. What can you do to take your recipes to the next level? As you make
Perceiving complexity
Optimising complexity
your selections, don’t forget to factor in
The diagram above charts the correlation
When you are learning to work with aromas,
taste and texture. Balancing the elements
between the perceived complexity of a dish
start with no more than five ingredients —
of flavour (aroma), taste and texture will
and a person’s affinity for that dish based on
add interesting depth and dimension to
hedonic variables like aroma, flavour, taste,
everything we eat or drink. Think about it:
your dishes.
We are sensitive to the textures of
texture and appearance. We can see that
the dishes we find appealing often include
Striking the right balance may sound
most people respond positively to added
a variety of textures, whereas dishes that
simple in theory, but it is often the most
complexity, but only up to a certain point.
lack texture can become boring after just
difficult part of the job when you are in
Their interest tends to wane once too many
a few bites. Our team has identified sixty
the kitchen.
elements begin to overcomplicate a dish.
different types of textures that we have
8 | Hospitality
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IN FOCUS // Food pairing
categorized into two main groups: soft and
those in Group D. But as Group E shows,
Group C shows a set of very similar
crunchy/crispy.
seemingly unrelated elements can form a
ingredients, such as different varieties of
coherent whole.
dark chocolate that are defined by the
The trick is to include at least one contrasting texture from each of these categories to give your dish dimension. Combinations like chips and guacamole,
same roasted, caramellic and nutty aroma A
molecules. In contrast, Group D shows a A
French fries with ketchup or a silky chocolate mousse served with a cookie or crumble are
chocolate, anise, and peanuts, each of which B
B
classic examples of our natural affinity for C C
Without getting too carried away, try
D
Groups D and E share the same components but in different configurations, which goes to
E
to incorporate at least two of the five contrasting tastes — sweet, salty, sour,
Finally, Group E represents the traditional Mexican dish, mole de pollo. Note that
D
Contrasting tastes
has a markedly different aroma profile from the rest.
contrasting pairings of soft foods and foods with crispy or crunchy textures.
set of ingredients such as chicken, chilli,
show that personal preferences and cultural backgrounds may cause one
E
bitter and umami — to balance your dishes and drinks. In the diagram to the right,
this makes it easier to maintain balance as
the arrows indicate which tastes work
you refine your pairings. In addition to your
to counterbalance one another. Salt, for
choice of ingredients and the personal or
example, can be used to reduce bitter
cultural preferences of your diners, optimising
tastes. That is why some chocolate chip
complexity is determined by the following
cookie recipes call for a pinch of salt
elements: the total number of different
to balance the bitterness of the dark
aroma molecules present in a recipe; the
chocolate. Salt also works to balance
type of aroma types and descriptors each
sweetness, as in sea salt caramel.
ingredient contributes to a dish, and whether
Following the same principle, you can
which taste molecules are also present. The
adding a sour contrasting element.
more distinguishable elements stand out in
use will register some sort of effect on the trigeminal nerve, whether it is a tactile sensation, temperature-related,
salty alcohol
pungency
your dish, the more complex it becomes. To illustrate what we mean by complexity, let’s refer to graphics A to E.
for example, adding umami enhances the sweetness of a dish
Group A shows three ingredients that share strong aromatic links. Chocolate,
– reduces
a cooling sensation or the mild burn of
caramel and coffee all contain roasted,
for example, adding
alcohol. As you create your dish, be sure
caramellic and nutty notes. A dessert
fat reduces the taste of alcohol
to take into account these sensations as
made using these ingredients would be
they will all have some bearing on the
an example of what we call ‘overtoning’,
= balances
gastrophysical experience.
in which variations of similar-smelling
for example, sweet and umami tastes
ingredients result in a more subtle complexity
balance each other
Balancing contrasting tastes
than combining chocolate with the fruity,
Adding a contrasting taste lets you reduce
citrus and floral notes of raspberries would.
or balance the impact of an element of
Overtoning allows us to incorporate plenty
your dish.
of herbs, spices or other closely related
contrast textures
umami
+ enhances
astringency, fattiness, pungency, numbness,
sweet
bitter
they share any similarities; in addition to
reduce the intensity of a sweet dessert by Remember that every ingredient you
fat
person to perceive the complexity of a dish very differently from another. The most successful Foodpairings strike
ingredients in a dish without it turning into a
a carefully measured balance between
cacophony of contrasting elements.
complexity and coherence. As humans, we
But say we add almonds and basil to
crave variety, yet we also seek out familiar
our chocolate dessert: suddenly, Group B
elements or structures that help us make
becomes more complex, as we now have five
sense of novel experiences. This aesthetic
contrasting ingredients to balance in terms
principle of ‘unity-in-variety,’ as coined by
ingredients you use — aromatic complexity
of taste and texture. One way to get around
the psychologist Daniel Berlyne, satisfies
comes together in various forms on the plate.
the issue of too many items overcrowding
our curiosity and desire for learning while
Your ingredients can have many aroma
the plate is to limit yourself to just a few
also allowing the disparate elements
molecules in common like those in Group
ingredients that offer a diverse range of
to be efficiently processed in ways we
C, or be very different from each other, like
contrasting profiles.
deem pleasurable. ■
contrast tastes It is not just about the number of different
10 | Hospitality
NEWS // Entrée
Entrée
The latest openings, books, products and more. EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros
The Everleigh Bottling Co. introduces spritzed cocktails Melbourne’s Everleigh Bottling Co. has launched a new range
and have been designed to
The Star Sydney expands dining offering
chill and drink straight from
Italian restaurant Cucina Porto is set to open its doors on 25
the bottle. “Every step in
November. It’s the first of a number of new openings from The Star
the preparation of making
Sydney in Pyrmont, which is transforming former retail outlets into
and serving a cocktail has
hospitality venues in a $500 million capital works investment program.
been considered to offer
The venue is located opposite the Sydney Lyric Theatre and is headed
consistency and quality above
up by Martino Pulito. The chef joins after time at Morrison Bar & Oyster
all else,” says co-owner
Room and has designed a menu with influences from the south of Italy.
Michael Madrusan. The drinks
A range of Italian snacks will be on offer alongside pizzas and pastas.
are available in four packs for
The drinks list will showcase a ‘Negroni progression menu’ and wines
$48. everleighbottling.com
from Australia and Italy. thestar.com.au
just in time for summer. The Americano and the French 75 are first off the spritz line
LILYMU opens in Parramatta Square Nour, Cuckoo Callay and Henrietta restaurateur Ibby Moubadder has expanded his hospitality portfolio with the launch of LILYMU in Parramatta Square. Former Mr Wong chef Brendan Fong is heading up the kitchen and has curated a menu influenced by Chinese and South East Asian cuisines. Dishes include tom yum prawn dumplings, XO pippies with kaffir lime and scampi red curry with betel levels. The venue has a full-service bar and room for 160 guests across a dining room, outdoor space and private dining room. lilymu.com
Morning Market finds permanent home Andrew McConnell’s Trader House restaurant group has added to its Melbourne portfolio with grocery concept Morning Market. The venue initially launched as a pop-up under the moniker Marion Grocer at Marion wine bar in March, with positive customer support leading to a permanent location two doors down at 59 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy. Morning Market’s offering encompasses bread and pastries from Baker Bleu, Single O coffee, salads and sandwiches alongside fresh produce, dairy and specialty pantry essentials. The concept also stocks fresh local flowers and homewares. morning.market 12 | Hospitality
Melbourne gelataria Piccolina will open two locations in the CBD. Spearheaded by owner Sandra Foti, the new additions are slated to open in December and are located on Degraves Street and Hardware Lane. The Degraves venue will be a hole in the wall while Hardware Lane will offer a more expansive experience for visitors, but both will offer indoor and outdoor seating. “We are excited to bring our offering to the CBD, while partaking in the revival of it,” says Foti. Photography by Kris Paulsen
The new go-to for cocktails Spirited: Cocktails from Around the World Adrienne Stillman Phaidon; $69.95 Sommelier and writer Adrienne Stillman has penned a new book which combines more than 610 cocktail recipes with essays on everything from origin stories and trending cocktails to classic bartending techniques. Recipes are split into refreshing, sours, spirit-forward, tiki and tropical, coffee and dessert and punches. Essential equipment, garnishes, syrups and cordials are also covered, with the book also featuring more than 200 photographs.
Gin bar opens in Hobart Forty Spotted will open its doors in late November, offering guests the opportunity to try some of the world’s best gins. Forty Spotted’s own gin will be on offer along with 20 other options from countries including Scotland, Northern Ireland, Germany and Australia. The venue is now hosting blending workshops with the bar serving up an extensive cocktail list and a snacks menu. ginbarhobart.com
Empirical launches RTD spirits in Australia Copenhagen distillery Empirical is behind two new ready-to-drink beverages dubbed Can 01 and Can 02. The drinks (which are not beer, cider or cocktail) are made with a base spirit crafted from beet molasses and Belgian Saison yeast. 01 features milk oolong, toasted birch, gooseberry, Douglas fir and pomelo zest with 02 combining sour cherry with blackcurrant bud, walnut wood, young pinecone and maqaw pepper. The lightly carbonated drinks are priced at $60 for four cans and are available through select venues and online retailer DRNKS. us.empirical.co November/December 2020 | 13
NEWS // Entrée
Piccolina secures two new sites
PRODUCE // Zucchini flowers
The colour of the flowers vary from Female flowers produce
yellow to orange
a baby zucchini
Male blossoms grow In season from
on a stem and are
spring until summer
ready to harvest first
Female blossoms grow closer to the centre of the plant
Zucchini flowers Stuffed, fried or eaten raw, the green and gold blossoms are one of the fruits of summer.
Origins
Mexico and the US, and are
the plant for pollination. Male
taste reminiscent of zucchini
Zucchini flowers are part of the
especially popular in Italy,
flowers should be cut behind
with a slight nutty flavour.
Cucurbita pepo species from
Spain, Greece and Turkey.
the flower, leaving around 1 inch
of the oldest domesticated
Growth and harvest
blossoms should be cut at
Culinary applications and storage
species and can be traced
The plants require full sun and
the base.
The flowers perish easily and
back thousands of years. There
seeds should be planted in rich
is discussion with regards
soil at least one metre apart. During the early stages, the
Flavour profile and appearance
after harvesting. To maximise
to its exact origins, but it’s believed to have come from
plants require regular watering.
Male zucchini flowers have a
paper towel and store in an air-
the Americas before seeds
Flowers are in season from
green stem and female flowers
tight container in the fridge. The
were taken to Europe. Zucchini
spring until summer and should
produce a small zucchini fruit,
blossoms are incredibly versatile
flowers are also known as
be harvested by hand. Male
which is also green. Both grow a
and can be eaten raw in salads,
courgette flowers or squash
zucchini flowers can be picked
flower, which varies from yellow
stuffed with ricotta and lemon
blossoms. They are primarily
once the flowers open; ensure
to vibrant orange in colour. The
zest and deep-fried or drizzled
grown in Europe, Australia,
a few male flowers are left on
blossoms are soft and have a
in oil and baked in the oven. ■
the genus Cucurbita. It is one
14 | Hospitality
of the stem attached. Female
should be used within one day lifespan, cover with a damp
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BEST PRACTICE // Outdoor dining
Take it outside While Melbourne venues have been forced to embrace outdoor dining, operators in other states and territories could benefit from alfresco seating, too.
THE COVID-19 PANDEMIC
in order to meet safety and
cities and towns, with venues
and City of Sydney, and state
has undoubtedly challenged
business needs.
moving seating onto footpaths,
governments have developed
and in some cases, car parking
programs designed to support
hospitality operators across
It’s tough to predict what
the country, particularly those
the industry will look like in
spaces immediately outside
businesses that wish to apply
in Victoria, who have endured
the next six to 12 months. But
their businesses.
for outdoor dining permits. In
extended shutdowns. And
one thing’s for sure — alfresco
Here, Hospitality shares a few
the period of adaption is far
dining is set to finally make its
tips to help operators transition
applying for permits easier; in
from over. As our governments
mark on the Australian dining
to outdoor service.
others they provide grants to
continue to develop new
landscape, with local and state
regulatory frameworks to keep
governments moving to expand
COVID-19 in check, restaurants,
outdoor dining.
cafés, bars, pubs and clubs will need to update their models 16 | Hospitality
some cases, programs make
help businesses cover the cost of
Check what support is available
outdoor furniture.
Expanded outdoor dining
A number of local councils,
outdoor dining spaces are high
will change the shape of many
including City of Melbourne
quality and are inviting,” says
“It’s important that the
BEST PRACTICE // Outdoor dining City of Melbourne CEO Justin
earmarked precincts can suggest
Hanney. “To achieve this, we will
alternative locations.
support businesses to install bollards, planters and barriers. Businesses will be responsible for furniture such as chairs and tables and fast grants are available to assist cash-
“It’s important that the outdoor dining spaces are high quality and are inviting.” – Justin Hanney
strapped traders.”
Create a space that’s yours The alfresco experience should mimic eating in a restaurant, not a food festival. Rope, plastic or wooden barriers will help
City of Sydney Lord Mayor
define your outdoor dining area
Clover Moore said the city
Invest in the right furniture
La Niña conditions mean the
and keep diners separate from
has been working towards the
Consider practicality and cost
weather could be cooler (and
passersby. Everything that’s on
creation of a 24-hour alfresco
as well as aesthetic. Aluminium
wetter) than usual this summer
offer indoors should be available
city for more than 10 years. “By
furniture is light-weight, easy to
across much of the country.
outside — make sure tables are
removing fees and red tape
clean and relatively weather-
Even if things heat up for a few
set with the same care and
and working with businesses
proof, but wicker furniture with
months, you’ll be prepared for
assign staff members to manage
to find as many outdoor dining
cushions might be the best
next winter.
different zones.
opportunities as possible, we’re
option when it comes to looks —
supporting COVID-19 recovery
you’ll just need a plan in place
while realising our vision of an
for wet conditions.
Create atmosphere with neighbouring businesses
Don’t forget cleaning protocols
alfresco city,” she says.
Both City of Melbourne and City
Outdoor dining has been
in a permanent outdoor dining
of Sydney are developing outdoor
touted as a way to mitigate the
what regulations apply to
set up, retractable awnings are a
dining precincts. Neighbouring
spread of COVID-19. However,
outdoor dining with their state
good option. Otherwise, outdoor
businesses are encouraged
venues still need to ensure
liquor and gaming authority
umbrellas come in a range of
to work together to take over
physical distancing measures
— not every jurisdiction has
styles and sizes.
footpaths, laneways and even
are in place, follow square
street space in some cases.
metreage rules and clean down
Operators who aren’t in already-
touchpoints consistently. ■
Operators should also check
relaxed rules around outdoor dining permits. 18 | Hospitality
For venues that want to invest
Last but not least, look into heating options. The predicted
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COLUMN // May Chow
Lessons learned The Hong Kong chef and restaurateur on resilience, adjusting and surviving. WORDS May Chow THE PANDEMIC HIT us in
I’ve learned a lot about business
sending staff home or we’re
late-February. We had a lot of
people, our highs are maximum
and being resilient. I had to
saving labour costs because we
COVID-19 measures, but luckily
100 cases. We hit our third
make really difficult decisions
are trying to survive another day;
we were never 100 per cent
wave in July, which led to
[and] we laid off more than
another month.
in lockdown; we were always
more stringent measures.
50 per cent of our staff. We’ve
operating restaurants. There
The government told us to
kept our best team members
Hong Kong as a restaurant
was a lot of fear in the public,
completely close down, leading
and we’re strong and we’re
industry is inherently a strong
so in February, our business
to closing at 6pm, then 10pm
in it together. But we need
community. We had protests
was only at 30 per cent of what
and now midnight. We’re back to
to break even to be creative.
starting from last year and in
it originally was. We’re very
60–70 per cent of what we were.
Many years ago, we were lucky
December, I had to close Happy
lucky because we had previous
In some ways, we have survived,
to be in an environment where
Paradise in the short term
experience with SARS and avian
but it has been a rollercoaster
creativity came first. Now if the
because we had zero business if
flus, so wearing masks and
and we expect it to continue for
government says something
protests were happening. By the
being sanitary was implemented
a while.
is happening today, I adjust
time February came, we were
my staffing the day of. We’re
like, ‘What is going on?’
way back. 22 | Hospitality
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COLUMN // May Chow
We started a group called Save Hong Kong F&B because the issues were out of our hands. I had colleagues who had difficulty discussing lease issues with landlords because
is. Everything is an ecosystem
“What makes people relevant is when they can build something timeless.”
they weren’t willing to give
and we need to strengthen it to survive and be more resilient to challenges like this. In Hong Kong, people still want to celebrate and are so desperate
concessions. People couldn’t
to go out. I think people still
survive and we needed a
So if rent is adjusted and we get
I want us to have jobs for the
really enjoy and love food — the
voice. We’re speaking to the
enough support, it will be much
long term. In the short term, they
pandemic doesn’t kill that. I
government, raising awareness
better. I feel bad for the bar side
might not have full pay, but at
don’t think the future is just
in the community and helping
of things because they’ve been
least we can go through it and
takeaway, but we might need to
each other navigate through the
shut for months at this point.
survive together.
consider 30 per cent takeaway
hard times. We’ve received a fairly
just to protect ourselves. It all comes down to money;
There’s a lot we can learn from
reasonable amount of support
I own my own restaurant and
COVID-19. There are thin margins
talent and take the downtime.
from the government; they’ve
we have to pay staff, rent and
in food; it’s labour-intense and
I’ve learned so much about
given us subsidies and support
expenses. In order to survive
the technology is outdated. It’s
costing, Excel sheets and things
for staff. But the worry is we’re
for a year or two of no or low
a great time to look at things
I did not need to answer to six
not out of it in the long run, so
income, we need to be vigilant
like technology; is your POS up
years ago. You really want to
a lot of people are fearful that
about saving. I had to have
to date? What makes people
be able to defend yourself.
without more subsidies, it’s hard
conversations with staff and
relevant is when they can build
Just cooking a delicious meal
to maintain. The major issue is
[talk about situations] where
something timeless. I always
isn’t good enough; you have to
support from landlords. Hong
we might not be able to pay full
think, ‘Can this last for 20
pay your staff. Take courses on
Kong is relying on local diners —
salary on some days if we can’t
years?’ Relevance isn’t being
management, leadership and
local diners still cover 60–70 per
open. Everyone has their own
the hottest item; it’s about being
equip yourself with knowledge. ■
cent — but we’re paying some
livelihoods to support, but I had
long lasting. The ones that aren’t
of the highest rents in the world.
to have honest conversations.
fundamentally strong will fail in
with Giulia Sgarbi for Food
Rent can be $50,000-80,000
I could pay 70 or 80 per cent
this time because it’s not just
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for Recovery summit.
24 | Hospitality
It’s important to diversify your
May Chow in conversation
DRINKS // Tea culture
Steeped in history Australia is known for its coffee culture — can we catch up to the rest of the world when it comes to tea? WORDS Madeline Woolway
WHEN STEEPED IN hot or cold water,
It’s this tea-drinking culture that Cathy
the cured leaves of Camellia sinensis make
Zhang hopes will become mainstream
consumed beverages globally. While coffee
teahouses will serve as a place for
an infusion that’s become one of the most is king in Australia, tea reigns supreme
in many regions, from its point of origin where East Asia meets South and up
in Australia, too. But in her ideal future, consumers to learn more about the history and science of tea.
“In China, tea is so integrated with
As more brands work to capture the
attention of younger consumers, new
teahouses are offering modern tea drinks. Zhang’s own tea brand Ms. Cattea is a
blend of the two, both honouring tradition and capturing a new audience.
Zhang founded Ms. Cattea in Sydney
into Europe.
our lives; we’ve been drinking tea since
in 2012 as a roving educational concept,
of preparations: white, black, green and
serious tea ceremony way, but it’s very
shop in Potts Point in late-2019. Zhang has
Its history is as varied as its multitude
oolong. In China, teahouses continue
to hold significant cultural cache, with
people using them as spaces to socialise or conduct business. 26 | Hospitality
we were kids — maybe not in a very
common [for people to go to teahouses],” says Zhang. “Teahouses in China are still
quite traditional. People will make tea in gongfu style.”
before opening a bricks and mortar tea
been studying tea since 2002 and has a
degree in tea science from the South China Agricultural University.
“I want to bring authentic tea culture to
cherish the moment because it will disappear so quickly.” – Cathy Zhang Australia,” says Zhang. “I come from China, but
varieties of tea. That’s not to mention
too — there’s Korean, Japanese, Indian and
further two years spent staying with farmers on
I recognise tea culture from around the world,
European culture which are also worth sharing.” At Ms. Cattea, Zhang aims to provide an
environment for people to drink tea and learn about different tea cultures as well as the
differences across provinces. Then, there’s a
three mountains, harvesting and making tea, which is then analysed in the lab to learn its chemical composition.
Unsurprisingly, there’s very little opportunity
history, origins and best preparation practices
to share this knowledge with consumers in-
beginning and build people’s interest, so they
classes, like a workshop, I wouldn’t be able to
for a variety of teas. “I want to start from the
can appreciate [specialty teas] more,” she says. The first two years in a four-year tea
science degree at the South China Agricultural University is spent studying the basics:
categories of tea and tea culture in China.
There are thousands of iterations of both. All
depth. “Unless we’re doing a tea course or
share that much,” says Zhang. “For the average consumer, I try to give them some interesting facts about the tea they’re drinking, so they
connect with that tea without burdening them too much.”
tea comes from the same species, Camellia
Here in Australia, Zhang has noted one trend
production methods result in uncountable
content every single day,” she says. “People are
sinensis, but different farming, harvesting and
in particular. “I get asked about caffeine
November/December 2020 | 27
DRINKS // Tea culture
“That’s what we call the spirit of tea — you should
DRINKS // Tea culture
For the best brew, tea leaves should have ample space to bloom while steeping Zhang recommends using a deep infuser to steep tea Mesh ball strainers and bags pack tea too tightly Supermarket tea bags are often filled with low-grade tea or leftover dust
concerned about how they’ll sleep. They’ll
contribute different effects to our bodies.
than white or green tea.”
cold easily — like young women who
concerns, too, from bolstering the immune
our body — should probably not drink
ask whether black tea has more caffeine
There are questions about other health
system to improving skin. The answer? There’s a tea for everything. “We have
tea for morning, day and evening,” says
“Green tea is cooler, so people who get
have hands and feet that get colder than too much green tea. It won’t help with blood circulation.”
Zhang. “We have tea for diabetes, weight
There’s a third effect — the mental state.
provinces will have a different tea
especially when some level of ceremony
control and indigestion and different for each.”
Zhang is talking about pure tea alone,
not the herbal varieties. Again — it’s
all the same plant, but the fresh leaves are harvested with different methods and processed differently to result in
different teas with different characteristics and attributes.
“Green tea, white tea, oolong and black
come from the same plant,” explains
Zhang. “We change the character of the tea [through production methods] and they
Drinking tea can be a therapeutic pursuit, is involved. It’s an important piece of
the puzzle for Zhang, and one she hopes will come to the fore as tea culture in Australia evolves.
“I want to start from the beginning and build people’s interest, so they can appreciate [specialty teas] more.” – Cathy Zhang
“Eventually, I want people to appreciate
each moment with the tea they are
drinking,” she says. “I think sometimes people just want the health benefits without thinking too much of the spiritual side.
“For people who come to do a tea
ceremony and tea experience with me, I
always want to remind them that you only get to drink each cup of tea once. Even if
you come in again and drink the same [type of] tea, it will be different — I’ll make it
differently because I’ll be a different person. Even the three teaspoons I use might
have less or more tea leaves or some tea
will have smaller leaves and some bigger, it will never be 100 per cent the same.
That’s what we call the spirit of tea — you should cherish the moment because it will disappear so quickly.”
For now, Zhang would be happy to see
more venues considering their tea offering. Despite the thousands of years of history
and science behind the aromatic beverage,
it still has plenty of potential to be explored. “Good-quality tea can be drunk hot in a
traditional way or cold in a more fun way,” says Zhang. “I’ve created tea menus for
high-end restaurants and bars to make tea cocktails. You can batch brew and serve
plain without alcohol or mix with alcohol and serve as a cocktail.”
And, while it might mean more
competition for Ms. Cattea, Zhang hopes
more teashops will open around Australia: “I wouldn’t see [it] as competition,” she
says. “I would see it as a good extension of the market. If it’s more accessible, people will learn more about tea.” ■ 28 | Hospitality
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PROFILE // Keat Lee
30 | Hospitality
PROFILE // Keat Lee
Keat Lee Lagoon Dining was in business for less than six months when COVID-19 hit. But Keat Lee and his business partners have hung on during one of the most turbulent years the industry has ever faced. WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Nikki To
LAGOON DINING HAD a flying start when
before taking some time off to globetrot. “I
What happened next was entirely
Helmed by Ezard alums Keat Lee, Ned
East Asia and then I came back to Australia
opening a restaurant after a relatively
it debuted in Melbourne last November. Trumble and Chris Lerch, there was
plenty of buzz around the South-East
went around Europe and through Southand ended up at Longsong,” says Lee.
The young chef learned the foundations
Asian eatery in Carlton — and for good
of fine dining under Teage Ezard, but
were all words used to describe the dining
challenge. The two venues are apples
reason. “Elegant”, “relevant” and “bold”
experience, and the eatery was promptly
dubbed one of the hottest tickets in town. But the buzz subsided in March
when restaurants around the country
collectively closed their doors. Chef Keat Lee talks to Hospitality about switching up his career, receiving a phone call
that resulted in a restaurant and how the venue has used recent months
as an opportunity to try something a little different.
Keat Lee was supposed to be an
audiologist. He moved to Melbourne
Longsong presented an entirely new
and oranges, but the lessons learned
stuck with Lee. “Working under Jarrod [Di Blasi] and Teage instils a strong
work ethic in you — you need to work
faster and smarter and think about every little detail,” he says. “Longsong was
a firm yes. Lee commenced a different
form of study at William Angliss Institute and it wasn’t long before he secured an
apprenticeship at the now-shuttered Ezard. “I was recommended by a friend who said it was a good place to learn,” says Lee.
“Fine dining appealed to me at the time and it really grew on me.”
Lee spent the next two and a half years
balancing his culinary studies with working at Ezard, completing all requirements
in 2016. He stayed on at the Melbourne
institute as sous chef for the next two years
in this case. “I worked with my current business partners, Ned [Trumble] and
Chris [Lerch], at Ezard,” says Lee. “Ned was an apprentice and Chris was in
front of house. We formed a strong bond and friendship inside and outside of
work and that naturally progressed to opening something.”
Co-founding a restaurant just a few
I hadn’t done before. To learn that aspect
would soon become Lagoon was too good
using fire and coal, which was something of cooking was hard at first, but there’s a simplicity in cooking over fire; it’s
real cooking, if you know what I mean. There’s no room for error with fire.”
necessarily the plan for Lee, but what
to pass on. “I didn’t see it happening so fast, but we had an idea and thought about some concepts and Lagoon
transpired from there,” says the chef.
Ezard regular Susan Wyles also joined as a business partner and the team secured
a site on Lygon Street that had a previous
“I realised it wasn’t what I was fully
kitchen work,” says Lee. The answer was
opportunity came knocking; or calling,
years into his cooking career wasn’t
Masters, but his heart just wasn’t in it.
jobs to see whether I wanted to pursue
short time in the industry — but
an entirely different method of cookery
around a decade ago to complete his
interested in, so I worked some kitchen
unexpected. Lee wasn’t planning on
life as a food store.
“We had a really strong start and everything was going really well — and then COVID –19 happened.” – Keat Lee
The thing about Lagoon’s culinary
direction is that it’s not exclusive to a
particular cuisine. Sure, it learns towards South-East Asian flavours, but the
foundation of the restaurant is built on
Chinese culinary traditions. A good-times
atmosphere is equally as important; which is helped along by the interior scheme.
“It’s a more polished and refined result
than what we intended, but it’s the design of the restaurant and the way the food developed,” says Lee.
And good times were definitely had
when Lagoon swung the doors open in
November 2019. “We had a really strong November/December 2020 | 31
PROFILE // Keat Lee The restaurant reopened with an à la carte menu
Curries have been one of the top togo sellers
Lee originally studied audiology before changing his career
Lagoon launched a condiment line during lockdown
“It’s been good to see how Lagoon and other restaurants have used the time to adapt, diversify and try to look at start and everything was going really well
It’s been a testing time for the industry,
— and then COVID-19 happened,” says Lee.
but also a chance to test new concepts
before the first lockdown started, which
“We started selling food in IGA and small
The restaurant began offering takeaway meant the team had the chance to test
different to-go models before dine in was shut down. “We thought we’d change things up and launched ready-to-eat
takeaway meals, which is what we’ve
focused on,” says Lee. The dishes aren’t
necessarily what you’d find on Lagoon’s
regular menu, but comfort has very much
and explore different revenue streams.
grocers as well as though Co-Lab Pantry,” says Lee. “In a way, it’s been good to see how Lagoon and other restaurants have used the time to adapt, diversify and
try to look at [the situation] in a more
positive manner,” says Lee. “But it’s been very hard and a bit of a shock.”
been at the forefront of the offering. “It
Lee said Lagoon would resume dine-in
like to eat at home and dishes that were
state government, and the venue has since
was about thinking about what people approachable,” says the chef. “Curries
have been selling really well and a lot of the vegan dishes.”
Lagoon also launched a condiment
line which includes everything from hot sauce to garlic oil, XO sauce, spiced salt
and the venue’s signature ‘strange flavour dressing’. “The condiments are doing
really well and we will keep doing them,” says Lee. “It will be interesting to see
what will happen when all this finishes up and if restaurants will continue to
do the same things or operate solely as normal restaurants.” 32 | Hospitality
trade as soon as it was permitted by the
served customers in the restaurant for the first time since July. The team had two
days to prepare for normalcy once again
and decided to run with an à la carte menu with crowd favourites and some new faces. It’s been a long few months for the new kids on the block, but the team are just grateful to be back. “We were really
excited to be able to serve customers again and put some food back on plates,” says Lee. “It was honestly such a relief to get back into the groove of things.”
It’s safe to say Lagoon Dining has
definitely got its groove back. ■
[the situation] in a more positive manner.” – Keat Lee
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“We pride ourselves on being at the
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Ben Armstrong. “Building communities
approach to the foodservice industry is incredibly exciting, and one that we believe 34 | Hospitality
Strong partnerships such as these set a new standard and are essential to drive
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FEATURE // Trends
Trends
As we leave 2020 behind, here are the trends forecasted to be big next year. EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros
Takeaway, delivery and at-home meal kits
According to IBISWorld, the fast food and takeaway foodservices market size, measured by revenue, is $16.9 billion in 2020.
Operators are paying special attention to takeaway menus after enforced restaurant shutdowns, and venues have had great
success with takeaway food and drink that provide an element of comfort to customers, with pasta dishes, charcuterie and slow-roasted meats all proving to be winners.
Many operators have also delved into the meal-kit world, with
Merivale launching an At Home offering which sees customers
finish off dishes from restaurants including Mr. Wong, Fred’s and Totti’s. The program has continued, despite restaurants in New South Wales now seating customers per spacing rules.
Delivery has experienced a boom across the country. More
than 4 million Australians use delivery services to order food
and the industry has grown by 81.1 per cent between 2015 and 2020. Uber Eats, Deliveroo and Menu Log continue to lead the
market, with new player DoorDash launching earlier in the year. Many operators have chosen to keep delivery in-house to skip commission fees, using existing staff to complete orders.
Mr. Wong at home
36 | Hospitality
FEATURE // Trends
Set menus
Limited or set menus put the power in
the operator’s hands and provide myriad benefits — especially during a time
where every dollar counts. The past few months have seen many venues cut à la carte menus and instead provide a
fixed offering. Operators are able to keep produce orders lean, know how much
revenue they’ll be pulling in per head and maximise productivity in the kitchen.
When Hartsyard in Sydney’s Enmore
reopened for dine-in trade, the team
ran with an $88 tasting menu and later
introduced a small à la carte offering as dine-in numbers increased. On the flip
side, Tequila on York ran a one-month popup with an eight-dish set menu.
Tequila on York's set menu
Product ranges
Some venues have dabbled in creating products during holiday seasons, but many are now seeing the value in creating a core line available all year round. Whether it’s jams, chutneys, pickles or relishes, a product range is a great value-add
for customers looking to support local business. Better yet,
advertise the products on your menu and incorporate them
into dishes so guests can try before they buy. Fermented and
pickled products can help reduce kitchen wastage and selling grocery essentials such as sourdough and artisan salts offers convenience to customers looking for products that aren’t available at the usual outlets.
Designing a line of tote bags, T-shirts, jumpers or caps is a
good way to get the word out about your venue and define a brand’s aesthetic beyond food and drink. Barrel One Coffee
Roasters has sold merchandise since the concept launched on Sydney’s Northern Beaches, with items often selling out instore and on the brand’s website.
November/December 2020 | 37
FEATURE // Trends
Low-ABV beverages
Research from Roy Morgan has shown Australians are drinking less alcohol, with 28.9 per cent
largely abstaining or not consuming alcohol, and 9.5 per cent reducing the amount they
consume. The low-ABV and alcohol-free category is relatively green in Australia, but has continued to grow with the increasing popularity of hard seltzer, alcohol-free spirits and low-ABV beers.
Hard seltzer contains a small amount of alcohol
and is one of the lowest-calorie options on the
market, typically flavoured with fruit. US brand
White Claw recently landed in Australia, joining products from other players including Smirnoff, Moon Dog, Hop Nation and more.
Stone & Wood brewery recently launched East
Point to their core range, which sits at 2.7 per cent ABV. The team decided to launch a low-
alcohol beer after receiving positive feedback from customers about their low-alcohol ‘pilot
batch’ beers, which were tested at two locations.
Table ordering and digital menus
Venues will need to continue to adhere to COVID
Safe guidelines, and minimising touchpoints should remain a focus for operators. There has been
an increased presence of technology that allows
customers to view menus on their phones, order meals and pay when they’re ready.
Platforms including Mr Yum and OrderUp have
risen in popularity and enable customers to view
menus using a QR code, ultimately removing the need for physical menus and wait times. Digital
platforms can help restaurateurs update menus with ease and redeploy staff to other duties.
Plus, research has shown customers are inclined
to spend more when ordering through a digital
platform. In the US, Taco Bell reported a 20 per cent increase in digital order sales compared to those made with a server. The technology also
means staff can spend more time with customers
discussing the story behind the venue or suggesting recommendations instead of taking orders and processing payments. 38 | Hospitality
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FEATURE // Trends
All-in-one venues Convenience continues to be king, and operators have identified a gap in the market for venues that can do it all.
Melbourne Restaurateur and Chef Andrew McConnell turned wine bar Marion into a grocery hub during lockdown, and
the venue was such a hit it’s moved to a
permanent home under the name Morning Market. The concept offers pantry
staples along with coffee, flowers, salads, sandwiches and fresh produce.
In Sydney, the team behind venues
including Ragazzi and Love, Tilly Devine
saw an opportunity to open a new type of
venue in the CBD. Fabbrica is selling fresh pasta by the gram along with a revolving
roster of artisan produce, sauces, cheeses, sandwiches, house-made breads and Morning Market
Increased hygiene protocols Hospitality venues have always
maintained strict hygiene protocols,
but increased cleanliness is now more important than ever. Staff should pay special attention to cleaning tables
between customers, ensuring disinfectant is used on surfaces. High-contact areas such as door handles and POS systems should also be regularly disinfected throughout the day.
Hand sanitiser should be readily
available to staff and customers and
staff should be encouraged to wear face
masks if they want to. It’s a good idea to
remove condiments and communal cutlery
containers and instead have staff set tables as customers are seated. Operators are
also required to capture customer contact information to ensure efficient contact
tracing if a person with COVID-19 visits your venue.
40 | Hospitality
everything customers need to make the ultimate pasta dish.
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FEATURE // Trends
Dietary requirements
The number of Australians adopting vegetarian,
gluten-free and vegan diets continues to rise, as does the demand for a quality food and beverage offering that ticks the dietary boxes. We’ve seen the ongoing
growth of almond and oat milks, which have become the non-dairy preference for baristas.
On the food front, plant-based dishes continue
to gain popularity as more diners choose to limit or
eliminate animal products. Restaurants in Ovolo hotels in Australia have chosen to go vegetarian for one
year, with chefs Roy Ner in Brisbane and Paul Wilson in Canberra designing new offerings. “We want to be
conscious about what we are consuming and practice
Alibi at Ovolo Woolloomooloo
environmental sustainability as best as we can, as
this leads to a larger impact on humanity, not just the environment,” says Ovolo Group Founder and CEO Girish Jhunjhnuwala.
The range of dietary-friendly products has continued
to boom, which means chefs are able to make relatively straight-forward switches to dishes. Gluten-free breads
have come a long way, as have simple condiments such
Operators have identified a gap in the market for venues that can do it all.
as mayonnaises and sauces.
Connecting with producers The relationship between chefs
and producers is intrinsic to the
industry. When chefs learn about
where produce comes from, they’re
able to not only create better dishes, but pass the information on to
customers. Provenance continues to be of the utmost importance
for venues, with more and more
customers becoming increasingly
aware of supporting local farmers and sustainable practices. While COVID-19 has made it difficult to travel to some states, it’s a
ripe opportunity for foodservice
professionals to discover local farms and form new connections. ■
42 | Hospitality
the vegetarian cream, great for whipping
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FEATURE // Nigerian
44 | Hospitality
FEATURE // Nigerian
Go west With regional variations and rich flavours, Nigerian cuisine has a lot to offer diners. WORDS Madeline Woolway PHOTOGRAPHY 1oh1 Media NIGERIA IS HOME to more than 250
some regions and not in others. “It’s a vast
Atlantic Ocean to the middle of the African
dry,” explains Adeniyi.
ethnic groups. Its borders extend from the continent, spanning a range of geography
country; some areas are tropical, some are Lagos, where Adeniyi hails from, is
and climates.
situated on the Atlantic Ocean. There, fish
diversity, with a plethora of dishes
generations of fishermen eating nothing
The food culture encompasses the
changing to suit local conditions. With such complexity, how does a single
restaurant — thousands of kilometres
away, no less — manage to encapsulate the experience of eating Nigerian cuisine?
is an inescapable part of everyday life, with but. The northern city of Kano, on the
other hand, is home to cattle farmers and herdsmen, with beef and goat common
proteins. “They don’t have any water, so
“We want to be inclusive,” says Adeniyi.
“We looked across the tribes [staff belong to] and picked the most common food
items and the method of food preparation as well. What we’ve done at Little Lagos
is set a [spice] threshold because we’re all
from different tribes. We found this middle point where everyone could still enjoy
the food without it being too spicy or not spicy enough.”
fish didn’t exist in their diet,” says Adeniyi.
Seafood could be swapped out for beef or
of Little Lagos in Sydney’s Newtown,
region. Jollof rice is perhaps the closest
that feature heavily across individual
and predictions for Nigerian cuisine
the major tribes. Often, the only difference
Hospitality speaks to Ade Adeniyi, owner
about his favourite dishes, key ingredients in Australia.
“We’ve got 250-plus tribes, if you can wrap your head around that,” says Adeniyi.
Spice levels are another indicator of
thing to a national dish, cutting across all will be the level of chilli. Jollof rice from
the south east would be expected to have less heat than one from the south west.
While Adeniyi says you can find most
“Each tribe has a different cuisine.”
variations anywhere now, at Little Lagos,
to south, east to west, but they could be
dishes bear the mark of their region, with
The same dishes might exist from north
prepared and cooked differently. Some proteins and produce will be found in
the team has been keen to make sure
the menu showcasing specialities from across the country.
goat, but there are some key ingredients dishes and regions: red palm oil, melon seeds, spice mixes such as yaji and irú. Their attributes are hard for Adeniyi
to define or find comparisons for, and
perhaps that’s what makes them so integral — they’re what separate Nigerian cuisine. COVID-19 has made sourcing imported ingredients difficult, but established
grocers who ship in large quantities have saved the day.
Palm oil is what gives Little Lagos’ goat November/December 2020 | 45
FEATURE // Nigerian misunderstandings about the nature of
Nigerian cuisine. Until this point, proteins have been used to illustrate the regional variations that exist. But vegetables
such as yams, sweet potato and spinach as well as capsicum, tomatoes, onions
“The food is a big part of what we’re doing, but it’s more about
and a variety of chilli peppers are of the utmost importance. Beans and rice are
the vibes. You walk in and you see the art on the walls, you see
staples, too.
the people, you hear the music, smell the food.” – Ade Adeniyi
assume West African cuisine is meat-heavy.
According to Adeniyi, many Australians
“Actually, 90 per cent of everything we eat stew an edge. “Palm oil gives it a whole new flavour, as opposed to olive oil,”
says Adeniyi. “When you see a dish with
transform the entire menu. “There’s been
Yewande Komolafe has described red
huge interest,” said Adeniyi a day prior to the event.
Many diners have also taken the
initiative to educate themselves. “When
Problems With Palm Oil Don’t Start With
know more,” says Adeniyi. “I’ve found a lot
ingredients together”. Her article The
the difference between the unrefined red palm oil that’s central to West African
46 | Hospitality
Tuesday 21 October saw the kitchen team
palm oil “as the glue that holds …
My Recipes published in Heated underlines
Chillies, such as habanero and scotch bonnet, are used often with spice levels varying regionally
Little Lagos hosts events to help
every dish — we don’t always, but for most US-based Nigerian-born food writer
Onions, tomatoes and capsicums are important components of many dishes
options, they’re blown away.”
educate the dining public. A vegan day on
of our dishes, we tend to.” Yaji is a spice mix that includes roasted peanuts, ginger and chilli
vegetarians come in and we lay out all the
red palm oil, you’re like, ‘Oh that looks
different’. It’s rich red. You can use it in
Irú is made from fermented locust beans and can be used dry or fresh
is vegetables,” he says. “When vegans and
cuisine from the industrially processed
palm oil that’s subject to criticism from environmental activists.
It’s not the only misconception
that abounds. There are fundamental
people come in they’re always interested to of people actually do their research before
they come. They go online and read about it and then know exactly what they want.
“Australians who have travelled to either
the UK or the US seem to have an idea
about Nigerian food because in places like New York and London, there are Nigerian restaurants in every borough or suburb.”
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FEATURE // Nigerian
“I was like, ‘If I needed a place to chill after a hard week at work, where would I go?’ And this is it. This is home for us.” – Ade Adeniyi Two of the most popular dishes are
After the other ingredients have been
jollof rice and goat stew. They’re also
added and fried off, they’re blended but
regional variations and its key ingredients.
blend until it’s half smooth but still has a
demonstrative of West African cuisine, its Adeniyi describes jollof as rice cooked
in stew. It has, he says, two distinct
not for too long. “You always want to
few chunks here and there,” says Adeniyi.
as well and [including] the music — it’s
not just solely a place to eat and then go home having learned literally nothing about Nigeria.
“I was like, ‘If I needed a place to chill
“It should look like a proper stew and not
after a hard week at work, where would I
the stew,” says Adeniyi. “And then we add
West African cuisine, though, is more than
take a pan-African approach, especially
that’s where it gets very technical because
Lagos earlier this year, he did so out of
whole western part of Africa eats the
characteristics: a deep red hue and rich
flavour. “So what we do with jollof is fry
the rice. The stew has to cook the rice, and too much stew will drown the rice and too little will burn the rice.”
The process is all about heat regulation.
“You cook at a very low temperature, and you have to keep stirring to stop the rice
from burning,” says Adeniyi. “It takes a lot of time. You’re not just cooking the rice. First you have to cook the stew, which takes quite some time.”
Next, is goat stew. “I love to highlight it
a broth.”
its dishes. When Adeniyi opened Little
“selfishness”. The self-described “modern
kid” was shocked to discover a gap in the market when he moved to Sydney. “For
me, Sydney is one of the most important
cities in the world, right?” he says. “You’re talking about London, New York, Tokyo, Dubai and Sydney. So how does a city of six million people not have many African restaurants?”
Little Lagos is an attempt to bring a
because goat is very common in Nigeria,”
little West Africa to Sydney. “There has to
but there’s no rice added. [Alongside] the
if you couldn’t go to Nigeria but wanted
says Adeniyi. “It’s similar to jollof rice stew, goat, key ingredients are tomatoes, onions, habanero or scotch bonnet and capsicum. The capsicum gives it a thick, rich red
appearance. You leave palm oil [in the
pan] until it’s really hot and then you start with the onion.” 48 | Hospitality
be at least one place where you could go
to experience it,” says Adeniyi. “Food is a
big part of what we’re doing, but it’s more about the vibes. You walk in and you see the art on the walls, you see the people,
you hear the music, smell the food. That was the whole idea about having a bar
go?’ And this is it. This is home for us.”
Besides the name, Adeniyi has tried to
when it comes to the food menu. “The
same things as us,” he says. “So you can’t really say Nigerian when Ghanaians eat the same thing; so do Liberians,
Senegalese and Cameroonians. I think
the second you walk in, you’re like, ‘Yep, this is an African restaurant’.”
When asked if he thinks more West African eateries will soon join the
plethora of East African venues, Adeniyi is hopeful. “I can see a lot of home-style kitchens already operating,” he says.
“They cook from home and people can order from them. There are a lot of
Nigerian-Australians who were raised
here. They identify with the culture and are thinking of ways to grow the Black economy in Australia. So I think it will get popular.” ■
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FEATURE // Condiments
Bottled up Condiments bring as much joy to the plate as they do to a business. WORDS Annabelle Cloros
50 | Hospitality
FEATURE // Condiments Ryan, Jonathan and Simon Cosentino
CONDIMENTS, PRESERVES AND general
Bottles of the tomato sauce, which
jarred goods have a shared mission — to
feature artwork by Mike Souvanthalisith
They’ve largely existed in the domain of
for customers to use at the start, but it
enhance, elevate and complement food.
from Studio Mimu, were placed on tables
supermarkets, but chefs have honed in on
didn’t take long for diners to ask to bring
an opportunity to put their own twists on pantry essentials.
Hospitality talks to Via Porta Co-Owner
and Chef Simon Cosentino and Tuck Shop Takeaway Co-Owner and Chef
Clinton Serex about why they decided to create their own lines, staying true
to their brands and the importance of diversification.
Plus, we chart the rise of the chilli
oil that started on Instagram and has
turned into a full-time gig for founder Danny Rōnin.
Tuck Shop Take Away’s catchphrase is “old-skool vibe, new-skool twist”. The
concept, created by husband and wife chef team Clinton and Karina Serex, opened in 2013 in Caulfield North, Melbourne, and has become the go-to for classic burgers, jaffles, shakes and all the good stuff. But
Tuck Shop isn’t your standard burger spot;
the team pride themselves on using tip-top produce and making basically everything from scratch — including their sauces.
the Tuck Shop sauce experience home.
“When we first started the pantry products, we probably sold 10 jars a week — now we’re up to 100 jars; it showcases the growth in this space.” – Simon Cosentino
“From day one, we’ve made all the sauces from scratch and we had bottles of the
tomato sauce on the tables,” says Serex. “There were quite a few requests early
on, so we’ve been bottling it for about six years now.”
A smoked jalapeño hot sauce soon
followed. Both products are free from
thickeners and preservatives and are made with natural ingredients. They’re also
vegan, which means they are universally appealing to all customers. “You can
really tell the difference between [artisan products] and a store-bought sauce,” says Serex.
Via Porta is fairly new on the hospitality
scene, opening last year in Mont Albert, Melbourne. Four siblings are behind
the concept, which operates as a hybrid venue. “We had the vision of creating
a multifaceted business with a dine-in
presence as well as jarred products and
pantry staples,” says Chef and Co-Owner Simon Cosentino.
November/December 2020 | 51
FEATURE // Condiments
Tuck Shop's sauces are $10 a bottle
Via Porta change up jams seasonally
Tuck Shop’s two retail sauces are vegan
Via Porta also offer delivery
Clinton Serex
The brand’s line includes everything
from fruit preserves to pickled veg and sauces, with the majority of products crafted in-house. “We always make
jam based on the season and the fruit
we can get,” says Cosentino. “The last batch, we did 400kg of strawberries from Queensland. The whole team
were involved and the finished product
The Leaf Store, 10 Greek Plates and
unchartered waters when COVID
Meatsmith is definitely our biggest client,”
our attention to taking our take-home
McConnell is a regular at the shop, and
says Serex. “We might sell 20–30 bottles a
week in-store, and I supply Meatsmith with up to 24 bottles a week, but it’s still a very small production.”
is so good; you can’t get that from larger companies.”
Victorian operators have been dealt
quite the hand in 2020, with restrictions impacting businesses in unimaginable ways. But if this year has taught
operators anything, it’s the importance
of diversification. Dine-in trade was the lifeblood of most businesses, but other avenues such as takeaway, gift cards,
virtual experiences and product lines have and will continue to be of importance moving forward.
Tuck Shop and Via Porta are both geared
towards take-home trade, but both have experienced an uptake of their product
Like all venues, Via Porta navigated
Meatsmith now stock the sauces. “Andrew
restrictions commenced. “We shifted all food range and pantry products to the
next level,” says Cosentino. “We’re in a
fortunate position because they have been really well received and it’s cemented
a new aspect of our business. We didn’t
know how good it could be — COVID has
“There were quite a few requests early on, so we’ve been bottling the tomato sauce for about six years.” – Clinton Serex
opened our eyes to the whole concept of preserving products and having shelf-
stable quality products we can distribute.” The venue also ventured into wholesale
after experiencing a surge in popularity
for their range. “If we’re talking volumes
in sales, we’re selling a lot more now than when we first started,” says Cosentino.
“We’re supplying other venues with our
products and it’s definitely grown; the sales have grown and our range has grown.
We’re selling through smaller independent delis, grocers and supermarkets as well as
a number of wholesalers, who have been a massive support for us.”
lines in recent months. “It started to gain
The establishment of Co-Lab Pantry,
so through this COVID period,” says Serex.
hospitality industry, has also been a
traction over the last two years, but more The team have steadily ramped up
production of the bottled sauces, which
are made in batches of 24–36 at a time.
A stellar sauce reputation has also led to
wholesale opportunities, and a number of venues including Smith & Deli, Marion,
Gary’s Quality Meats, Frankie’s Top Shop, 52 | Hospitality
a digital platform that supports the
game-changer for Serex and Cosentino.
Buyers are able to purchase goods from
a range of venues and have their orders shipped Australia-wide. Co-Lab are also
part of the Click for Vic campaign from the state government, which aims to support local businesses.
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FEATURE // Condiments
A Co-Lab co-founder approached Tuck
Shop during the initial lockdown in
Victoria, and the brand were one of the first to join the platform. “They place a
normal wholesale order and pick up 40 of each sauce at a time and then they re-
order more,” says Serex. While Serex has
considered setting up an online store, the postage system has been problematic in
terms of cost and time. A hot sauce devotee out of the then-5km radius purchased four bottles of sauce from the venue, and it
took 10 days for it to arrive in spite of the relatively short distance. “It’s definitely a lot better through Co-Lab, who use a courier system and it’s better value for the customer.”
Via Porta are also big fans of Co-Lab, and
have been supplying the platform for over
three months. “The Click for Vic initiative has captured a wider audience, which has been
really exciting,” says Cosentino. “Co-Lab buy
in large quantities and they distribute as they get orders. It’s crazy thinking that we are a
small producer, but we have the capacity to distribute interstate.”
Ronin Chilli
While Melbourne has reopened for dine-
Instagram’s most-coveted chilli oil.
remain a crucial revenue stream for many
Danny R nin is a content creator for musicians and creatives, but a chance
in trade, a strong take-home offering will
operators. Cosentino has plans to debut new
encounter at Australia Post has added a new profession to his resume.
“I’d like to work on a lot of chutneys and
chilli oil and started making it for friends and family during lockdown. He had a
products in the lead up to the festive season. preserves and continue to expand,” he says. “When we first started the pantry products, we probably sold 10 jars a week — now
we’re up to 100 jars; it showcases the growth in this space.”
Tuck Shop is sticking with two sauces for
the time being, but have received plenty of requests for the Tuck Shop burger sauce,
which features on the menu. “There’s the
R nin, who is first-generation Chinese-Australian from Melbourne, grew up with spare jar leftover, and gave it to an Australia Post employee when he was sending them off. A few hours later, the worker called him asking if they could order 10 jars. “I had no intention of starting it as a business,” says R nin. “Now, it’s my full-time gig and I’m trying to keep up with orders. It’s taken on a life of its own.” R nin used his own social media profile to plug R nin Chilli Oil, and the orders soon came flooding in. He worked with Tian38’s Alan Chong and a food scientist to refine the recipe, but it all started in his home kitchen. “Chilli oil was never something cool; there was never any hype around it until recently,” says R nin. “I think it’s an example of a product that social media has had a big part in growing
potential, as it’s a vegan soy-based mayo so
to where it is today.”
for ourselves for the burgers,” says Serex.
team putting in the hours to keep up with demand. “It’s very much batch made and
it’s shelf stable, but we’re going to keep that “I’ve had requests for barbecue sauce, but we don’t use it in any of our products. The two
It’s safe to say the chilli oil has become a huge hit, with R nin and the Tian38 we’re making a couple hundred each week,” says R nin. “Very rarely has someone bought one and not reordered. There are some people who have ordered more jars
sauces we sell are used on the menu [the
than the weeks I’ve been in business.”
Bully burger].
adopt a subscription model. “I kind of want to avoid people buying one-off jars, but
smoked jalapeño is on secret menu item the 2020 has nudged operators to think
differently about their brands; and
developing, refining and growing product lines has proven to be a fruitful operation when done right. ■ 54 | Hospitality
The goal is to create a lasting link with customers, which prompted R nin to the real goal is to create long-term relationships with customers,” says R nin. R nin is still surprised at how much his chilli oil has taken off, but the creator will continue to ride the chilli oil wave.
ADVERTORIAL // Foodie Coaches
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your business more profitably is a lifetime
Foodie Coaches speaks to many venue
accountants or advisors and have been told
So what does all this mean? With JobKeeper
they need to lower the labour cost, as it was
in play, it is the industry’s time to make
too high.
a change.
56 | Hospitality
investment that draws lifelong change for your business and everyone it reaches. ■ foodiecoaches.com
FEATURE // Flatbread
In the round Flatbreads have travelled the globe, making their mark on many cuisines. But in India and the Middle East, they’re integral to food culture. WORDS Madeline Woolway PHOTOGRAPHY Dan Mumbles for Gerard’s Bistro and Gerard’s Bar
58 | Hospitality
FLOUR, WATER AND salt. The three ingredients
come together to form flatbread, and flatbread is perhaps alone in its global ubiquity.
There are examples of flatbread from all
over the world. Different preparation methods,
cooking techniques and sources of flour separate one from the other, but there are clear parallels between them.
While flatbread has spread to every continent,
some of the most recognisable are examples
from the Middle East (pita and lavash) and India (naan, roti and chapati). But, there are dozens, if not hundreds, more variations.
We speak to Adam Wolfers from Gerard’s
Bistro and Gerard’s Bar and former Heritij chef Parag Ashok Kapile about the central role of
flatbread in Middle Eastern and Indian cuisines.
“basically life” at Brisbane venue Gerard’s Bistro. Every meal begins with baked-to-order bread.
“The first thing you get after you sit down and order a drink is a
flatbread to start your meal,” says Wolfers. “It’s a really important part of our whole philosophy.”
The decision to create a bread course wasn’t just about
honouring the venue’s Middle Eastern lineage. “Bread was a really big part of my life growing up, starting from flatbread to braided challah, which is a brioche-style bread,” says Wolfers, who spent
his childhood watching his Hungarian-Jewish grandmother cook. “Bread was a way to start a meal, and I put as much love into
making our doughs [at Gerard’s] as I do filleting a fish. For a lot of people, bread is just bread. For me, it brings people together.”
In the Middle East and India, flatbreads have a history of doing
just that. Brisbane-based chef Parag Ashok Kapile is equally
passionate about the ancient foodstuff, which is an integral part of daily diets in India and an important component of festival
celebrations. “We will eat bread with every meal,” says Kapile. “But the full range of breads is not explored in Australia. Roti, naan and paratha are the only things you’ll see.”
While there are some Indian restaurants that go beyond plain,
garlic or cheese naan — Kapile cites Sydney institutions Aki’s
and Abhi’s — there are a few possible reasons for the dearth of options. “Many people have been in Australia for a long time
and aren’t in touch with the heritage or have never learned the
techniques,” says Kapile. “Second, the chefs aren’t willing to take the risk. At 90 per cent of Indian restaurants in Australia, you
will find the same breads and the same curries … they think the
Flatbread cooking on a tava
“When making bread, time equals flavour.” – Adam Wolfers
November/December 2020 | 59
FEATURE // Flatbread
In the words of Executive Chef Adam Wolfers, flatbread is
FEATURE // Flatbread
Both flatbreads are the purview of
Yemenite Jews, but represent two ends of the flatbread spectrum.
Lahoh, which originated from Somalia,
is a spongy pancake-esque bread that
draws comparisons to Ethiopian injera. Malawach, on the other hand, is made
with a laminated dough that results in a croissant-like flaky texture.
Beyond lahoh and malawach, the team
has experimented with other flatbreads,
including pita and bazlama. “I would say
malawach and lahoh are kind of their own thing,” says Wolfers. “The others are all very similar in that they have the same
level of hydration [water to flour ratio].” While Wolfers sticks to tradition by
forgoing instant yeasts and using a wood-
fired oven for many of the breads, he’s not a purist. At Gerard’s, the lahoh is tweaked to make it gluten-free. “We ferment
potatoes and put the starter in with chickpea flour,” he says.
To make Turkish flatbread bazlama, the
team whips melted butter into the dough
instead of olive oil. “It gives it a stretchier style,” says Wolfers.
From north to south, India is home to a wide range of flatbreads, too. When it
comes to regional variations, accessible market is not ready. We really need people from all regions coming forward.”
The risk is this: flatbreads might look
simple, but they’re labour-intense. With so few ingredients, there’s not much to hide behind. Techniques need to be spot on, and there are no shortcuts.
“We cook our breads to order [but
preparation] takes two days, sometimes three, depending on what the bread is,”
says Wolfers. “When making bread, time equals flavour.”
Exploring the full range of Middle
Eastern cuisines is the driving force
behind Gerard’s kitchen, and breads are
foundational. “There are lots of different
breads and they’re all different textures,” says Wolfers. “They’re all based around a
very similar ratio of flour and water [but] they’re all very different.”
The Gerard’s Bistro team has whipped
up everything from lahoh to malawach. 60 | Hospitality
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FEATURE // Flatbread
“The full range of Indian breads available is not explored in Australia. Roti, naan and paratha are the only things you’ll see.” – Parag Ashok Kapile ingredients are the first difference and cooking
chef. “They’re made during festivals [such as
shares a border with Pakistan, tandoor breads
from a medium-soft wheat dough and we put
techniques the second. In the north, which
such as roti are common. “Naan and roti came from Persia,” explains Kapile. “If you come to
Holi and Ganesh Chaturthi]. They’re made sweetened chana dal inside.”
The sweetened chana dal is made using
the central parts, like Maharashtra where I’m
chickpeas and jaggery which are ground into
from wheat.”
fondant, before it’s stuffed between a flatbread
from, you will find most of the breads are made Both sorghum and finger millet flour-based
flatbreads are common in the central states such as Gujarat, Maharashtra and Goa as well as
southern states. “Bhakri is one example, which
you won’t find in restaurants here,” says Kapile. “Another is thalipeeth, which is a multigrain
bread. The flour my mother-in-law and I make
has 36 grains and you can add cabbage, spinach, turmeric and salt. You make a dough, which is flattened with your fingers.” Along with many flatbreads, both bhakri and thalipeeth are cooked over fire on a tava.
Kapile would like to see more attention put
towards the sweet puran poli and til poli. “They are consumed during festive times,” says the 62 | Hospitality
Thalipeeth
an incredibly fine paste, similar in texture to
dough made with flour, salt, water and ghee.
“My mother would grind it three or four times until it’s absolutely fine so the bread isn’t
punctured when rolled out,” says Kapile. “It was so painful, she would get cranky if you came
next to her. The mixture is put in the middle of
the dough and sealed like a dumpling, made into a ball and then rolled flat. Then we griddle it in ghee on the hot plate.”
Til poli, eaten mostly during the winter
festival of Makar Sankranti, is similar, but made with a sesame seed and jaggery mixture rather than chana dal. “Jaggery gives a different taste [compared to refined sugar],” says Kapile. “It’s divine.”
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FEATURE // Flatbread Puran poli
Some of the variations made at Gerard’s
The process for a carrot pita will go
“It will have the characteristics of
may present as avant-garde — take
something like this: Wolfers will pureé
in Wolfersʼ eyes, the venue honours the
fermented with salt for a week. He’ll then
Tradition sometimes needs bending
and add it to the fermented carrot base.
San Francisco has birthed a lot of
fermented carrot pita, for example — but ethos of many cuisines, which make the most of available ingredients. “For us,
changing the menu everyday and trying to
minimise waste is a big part of the cooking here,” he says. “And that’s a big part of
the cooking in a lot of cuisines, especially traditional ones.”
leftover carrot offcuts, which are then
take a small amount of sourdough starter Flour and water are then put in, and a
new starter is made. “I call it a secondary
starter,” says Wolfers. “It’s breaking down the carrot into a starter itself.”
Most starchy vegetables will work
Many restaurants use vegetable offcuts
according to Wolfers, who’s also made a
Wolfers thought it was worth using them
inconsistent was cabbage,” he says. “The
and scraps to make vinegars or pureés; to make bread. “So, now that’s kind of
our thing — we create a bread around a
vegetable or a grain that was going to go in the bin,” he says.
The process has traditional roots.
“Centuries ago, they didn’t have
its environment.”
to suit different environments, too.
sourdough experts for example, but the temperature there is 15 degrees cooler than a humid summer day in South
East Queensland, so the recipes won’t translate exactly.
“Bread is a labour of love [and] you
celeriac starter. “The one that was a bit
learn as you go,” says Wolfers. “You can
water content in cabbage makes it a bit
but the beauty of bread is that it’s sort
temperamental. Use a starchy vegetable with a bit of body to it. Don’t make an
asparagus starter — that won’t be your
friend. But pulses, grains, potatoes, sweet
read a recipe and copy it the exact tee,
of up to the individual. If you feed your
sourdough starter and I feed my one, it’s going to be very different.”
Bringing his own recipes to the table
potatoes and pumpkins work well.”
is what Kapile hopes to do in 2021, and
used natural yeast to leaven the bread.
remains popular throughout India. “In
diversity to Indian cuisine in Australia.
that we use a sourdough base.”
natural fermentation,” says Kapile.
[manufactured] yeast,” says Wolfers. “They I guess we use the traditional method in
64 | Hospitality
Natural fermentation with wild yeasts
Pradesh, they make a lot of bread using
the chef is on a mission to add more In the meantime, there’s plenty of doughs to explore. ■
online hospitality training
Compliance
Health & Safety
Table service
Beverage
Cellar operations
Food transport
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VIDEO // Behind the scenes
Fish in the garden The popular Thai dish is recreated at Sydney restaurant The Full Elephant.
The Full Elephant’s Executive
1
2
3
4
5
6
Chef Sorapong ‘B’ Prungleq shows us how to make ‘fish in the garden’; a dish found throughout Thailand.
Ingredients Whole barramundi Long red chillis Green apple Garlic Palm sugar Sugar Mint leaves Pine nuts Purple onion Shallots Fish sauce Self-raising flour Lemon juice Coriander
Method Fillet the barramundi and slice into pieces. Cover the fish pieces and carcass in selfraising flour and deep-fry until golden. Make a syrup by combining fish sauce with palm sugar, sugar and water. Chop apples, purple onion, garlic, shallots, long red chillis, coriander and mint leaves and place in a bowl. Add pine nuts, lemon juice and syrup and stir to combine. To serve, place fish carcass and fried fish pieces on a bed of leaves. Cover with dressing. Watch the video now at hospitalitymagazine.com.au
66 | Hospitality
EQUIPMENT // Contact grill
Contact grill Contact grills are best known as sandwich presses, but can be used for many more applications.
Commercial models
Domestic sandwich
can be used to grill
presses can work for low-
meat, poultry, seafood
volume venues and come
or produce
at a fraction of the cost
Heated plates and pressure work together to cook food quickly Ribbed plates will create ‘authentic’ grill marks and allow for fat and grease to drain away For even heat distribution, choose smooth plates
Look for a model that has multiple operational Manual thermostat controls allow for precise temperatures to be set
68 | Hospitality
modes including bottom plate only
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5 MINUTES WITH ... // Bhatia Dheeraj
Bhatia Dheeraj The Coogee Wine Room general manager and wine director on Australian wine culture, mentors and pairing professional development with passion.
Stéphane Soret at Raffles Hotel further honed my skills. Every mentor I’ve had has been invaluable and the one thing
I WAS PURSUING a Bachelor of Hotel
styles. People do enjoy local Australian
chef, but I was drawn towards front of
industry, but they are also open-minded
Management and even trained to be a
house. I was always fascinated with wines. It made me more curious coming from a
hotels, Michelin and hatted restaurants,
which makes it fun as a sommelier.
perhaps enter other segments of the wine
Working hospitality hours for 15-plus
years definitely takes its toll, so family
I would do whatever it took to learn
me. My wife Shikha is a pastry chef
about wine, and I went to Dubai, Cape
Town, France, Italy, the USA, Germany, Singapore, Hong Kong and Singapore for work, wine trips and professional wine studies.
Having worked in a few countries, I can
say the majority of people in Australia are willing to taste and try new wines and 70 | Hospitality
After working in high-end luxury
wine, which is a great thing for our
family where wine was not on the table or
even a common part of our lives. I decided
they all agree on is being humble.
support has been really important for and understands the demands of the
industry; she’s been an incredible support. I have also been blessed to have the
best mentors around the globe. The real journey began when renowned chef
Julien Bompard hired me for his French restaurant Le Saint Julien in Singapore and then legendary wine director
you climb the corporate ladder or
business. I still wanted the flexibility to
be a sommelier, and that’s what excited
me about the role at Coogee Wine Room. When I met [owners] Tom Hardwick and Michelle Morales, we found we shared
the same vision about the business and how to expand. I’m really enjoying
working with the team, which includes some excellent sommeliers as well as
Sandro Di Marino, the head chef, who is
so cool and relaxed and creates food that is meant to be shared with wine. ■
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