Hospitality September 2017

NO.738 SEPTEMBER 2017

Faux chefs:

PAUL RIFKIN

VENTS HIS SPLEEN

Preserving the pick of the season LIFTING THE LID ON A GLOBAL RITUAL

WORKING WITH

Herbs & Spices

Ed's note

September 6

Contents 4

In focus

6

Openings

10

Flavour of the month

12

T

he rise and rise of reality TV shows depict the industry in a certain light, which is not always a true reflection of daily life in the kitchen.

So when someone unqualified infringes on your territory, alarm bells ring. There’s been a significant influx of ‘cheftestants’ making their way into the industry thanks to the sheer volume of cooking programs consumers just can’t get enough of. But the title of chef is one that’s earned in the kitchen and not in front of the camera. The truth is that staff retention is a major issue the industry is facing, and it’s getting harder to attract apprentices. Many people simply aren’t willing to put in the hard yards once they realise the hardships of working in a kitchen day in, day out.

This issue, Campbelltown Catholic Club’s Paul Rifkin shares his views on the impact of cooking programs on a profession he’s invested 40plus years in. On page 20, journalist Madeline Woolway talks all things herbs and spices with David Tsirekas, Karishma Shrestha and Clayton Donovan. We look at the roots of pickling and its presence on menus around the country along with the rise of pairing beer with food, which may overtake wine sooner than we thought. We also go behind the scenes with three chefs and take a look at their go-to pieces of kitchen equipment on page 22.

If you have any thoughts or feedback on this issue, I’d love to hear it.

Until next time, Annabelle Cloros acloros@intermedia.com.au

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Hospitality

September 2017

12

Best practice

14

Fast casual

16

Column

18

Drinks

20

Herbs and spices

22

Kitchen equipment

25

Pickling

28

Beer

32

Shelf space

33

Diary

34

5 minutes with…

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22 18

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BACK ROW • Jacqui Challinor – Nomad, Sydney • Monty Koludrovic – Icebergs & The Dolphin Hotel, Sydney FRONT ROW • Nicky Riemer – Melbourne • Spencer Patrick – Harrisons & Bistro H, Port Douglas • Nelly Robinson – Nel Restaurant, Sydney

• Troy Rhoades-Brown – Muse Restaurant & Muse Kitchen, Hunter Valley • Melissa Palinkas – Young George, Perth • David Thompson – Long Chim, Singapore, Perth, Sydney & Melbourne. Nahm, Bangkok. • Paul Baker – Botanic Gardens Restaurant, Adelaide

Porcine prophets. Every single one of them.

A passion for the pig is certainly not the only thing that unites this group of culinary virtuosos. No sir. The “Oohs”, the “Wows” and the “Oh my gods” of excited diners are really what it’s all about.

And through Pork, these stars bring it. Every single service.

Be a PorkStar. And get some Pork on your menu.

in focus

Allergy awareness Food allergy and intolerances affect a number of Australians, and the industry is taking note.

F

rom the rise of gluten- and dairy-free diets to the increasing number of food intolerances, the industry has been overwhelmed with a growing category of consumers. But food allergy can be a lifelong condition for many Australians, who genuinely struggle to find options suitable for their diets.

According to Allergy & Anaphylaxis Australia, food allergy is estimated to affect 1 to 2 percent of adults, 4 to 8 percent of children under five years of age and 10 per cent of children aged under one year old.

Peanut, tree nut, sesame and seafood allergies are the most common allergies, and can cause severe reactions known as anaphylaxis.

A number of chefs have grown frustrated with fussy diners, who come to venues armed with an extensive list of requirements of what

Food allergy occurs in:

10% of children aged under one 4

Hospitality

4-8% of children under five

September 2017

they can and can’t eat. Using false allergies to customise meals compromises those with potentially life-threatening allergies, and could lead to complacency in the kitchen.

For diners with strict dietary requirements, chef Francesco Mannelli has created a menu at Mode Kitchen & Bar that is largely gluten-free.

“Over the past 10 years, I’ve seen the number of allergies and gluten intolerances in Sydney increase incredibly,” says Mannelli. “Our menu is 99 percent gluten-free.”

Bulla has also launched a gluten-free and nut-free ice cream made in a dedicated nut-free factory facility. The company implemented a testing system that analyses incoming ingredients and finished products during the production process. n

The most common triggers are: Egg

Cow’s milk

Peanut

Tree nuts

Sesame

Soy

Fish

Wheat

1-2% of adults

Seafood

Openings Some of the latest venues to swing open their doors in Australia’s foodservice scene.

1

Marta

Sydney, NSW Flavio Carnevale has converted Popolo into Marta, signalling his return to Roman hospitality. The updated fitout is located in Rushcutters Bay and features a new bar offering with high-topped tables and a spritz-bar-inspired drinks list. Menu highlights include baked anchovies with sautéed curly endive and bucatini mussels with tomato and pecorino.

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Concept Burger

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Sydney, NSW Chef Tomislav Martinovic (Five Points Burgers) has opened up shop in south-west Sydney’s Wolli Creek. But Concept Burger isn’t your typical burger joint, with the menu citing a variety of flavours from Vietnam to China. Grass-fed meat is from Haverick and buns are courtesy of Brasserie Bread.

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2

Knox Dining

Gold Coast, Qld Founded by brothers Brad and Greg Turvey, Knox Dining has opened in Surfers Paradise. The venue offers all-day breakfast and lunch and provides a wholesome menu including gluten-free protein pancakes and açai bowls.

There’s also a take-away window where customers can grab a Toby’s Estate coffee, fresh juices and baked goods.

4

Mode Kitchen & Bar

Sydney, NSW Mode Kitchen & Bar has opened on the ground floor of the Four Seasons Hotel Sydney in The Rocks.

Designed by Luchetti Krelle, the space features Tom Dixon pendants and a 24-metre stone bar. Head chef Francesco Mannelli is joined in the kitchen by sous chef April Shen, serving up slow-cooked wagyu cheek and risotto with Tasmanian truffles.

3 4

6 Hospitality September 2017

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5

Leaf & Co

Sydney, NSW Leaf & Co has opened in North Kellyville Square, offering a modern Australian menu and specialty coffee.

All-day breakfast is available with açai and chia bowls, avocado smash, big breakfast, pancakes, hearty pastas, superfood salads, waffles and burgers all on offer.

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Proud Sprout Café

Melbourne, Vic Proud Sprout Café is all about Nepalese spices and flavours. Located in Fitzroy, the menu includes spiced cauliflower, potato, fried eggs and roti paratha, goat curry and a Nepalese spin on avo on toast with smoked trout teamed with sweet potato rosti and avocado hollandaise.

7

Made by the Hill

Sydney, NSW Made by the Hill is a multi-milliondollar space in Rooty Hill that brings city hospitality to Sydney’s western suburbs. The interior was designed

by TomMarkHenry and the menu features a range of options from pizza to charcuterie boards as well as picks from Pasticceria Papa and Chur Burger.

8

First Edition Bar & Dining 8

Canberra, ACT Novotel Canberra has launched First Edition Bar & Dining, a 180-seat venue headed up by executive chef Jennie Tressler. The all-day dining menu is focused on sharing plates such as cured meats, grilled haloumi with mint, lemon and toasted almonds and baby back pork ribs, putting the spotlight on Canberra’s local produce.

September 2017 Hospitality 7

Flavour of the month As the most famous form of edible thistle (apart from cardoons, which are the next best), globe artichokes hold a special place in the heart of many chefs, writes chef Nino Zoccali.

Globe Artichokes

T

hough not a big part of the Australian dining scene and even less popular in the homes of most Australians, globe artichokes are a quintessential seasonal ingredient in many European cuisines and are gaining popularity.

SOURCING Peaking in October, globe artichokes are available in Australia from late winter through most of spring. While annual production is miniscule in Australia, most specialty greengrocer stores and even some supermarkets stock them during these months. Limited production does make them relatively expensive.

still represent true seasonality.

They are a rare example of a vegetable product that hasn’t become available 365 days a year.

•

FLAVOUR MATCHES

• •

Globe artichokes work fantastically with a range of other ingredients.

Common partners include a range of sauces including various mayonnaises and vinaigrettes that often feature strong garlic, herb, lemon and vinegar flavours. They also go extremely well with a range of seafood and meats and are fantastic used raw in both salads and with raw and cooked seafood.

TASTY APPLICATIONS •

WHAT’S THE APPEAL? Flavour, flavour and more flavour.

Artichokes have a very specific mild flavour that can become addictive with buttery, metallic overtones. They are revered in most cultures that have had them as a staple for a long time. They are also extremely healthy given that they are a low-calorie rich source of dietary fibre containing numerous vitamins and minerals.

The rigid nature of availability is also very appealing in that they 10

Hospitality

September 2017

•

• • • •

Stuffed with fresh breadcrumbs and Parmesan cheese or pecorino and then steamed.

Boiled/steamed and served with pungent mayonnaises and vinaigrettes.

Giudea — deep-fried Roman (Jewish) style.

Baked with various fillings.

Raw in salads — particularly good with raw fennel.

Chopped raw and dressed with lemon vinaigrette to be served with raw fish and shellfish.

Pickled and stored in oil — par-cooked in acidulated water (in a lemon or vinegar water solution) and then preserved in oil.

Used in fritters.

Used in a range of pasta dishes.

STORAGE Best stored refrigerated in plastic bags. Like with most other vegetables, if artichokes are stored for too long after harvest, they will go soft. They can still be eaten when soft but they are much nicer prepared and eaten fresh. With a continued emphasis on convenience and with the perception that artichokes are time-consuming to prepare, it is now becoming popular in Europe for greengrocers to offer partially prepared artichokes sold in water and lemon juice (acidulated water). The acidulated water prevents prepared artichokes from turning black and is an excellent way to pre-prepare them. They can be safely stored for short periods of time like this.

PREP TIPS Use acidulated water when preparing to prevent the artichokes from discolouring.

Peel and use the stems. The stems are often discarded and usually taste fantastic. The outer skin of the stem will be fibrous and bitter, so it’s important to adequately peel them down to the tender centre.

When preparing artichokes, constantly check for the tenderness of the leaves as varieties can vary significantly and you don’t want to discard any leaves that are tender. As a guide, peel away outer leaves until the inner leaves become almost yellow in colour. Rub with lemon as you do this. Cut the tops off at the point where the leaves start to turn green. Check to see how fibrous the remaining leaves are. You want to keep as much of the artichoke as possible but the outer leaves need to be tender.

Old artichokes will become soft.

Like most vegetables, it’s best to use them as fresh as possible.

Check the inside of the chokes and make sure the furry centre (choke) is cleaned out completely before cooking and/or preparing and eating. This fibrous part of the choke can scratch the inside of the throat when eaten and can leave the throat feeling very uncomfortable. n

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best practice

A

positive, supportive culture is not just about having fun all day — it surrounds shared goals and values, working as a team and ensuring people look forward to their shifts. There are many ways to ‘build in the enjoyment’ at work, and you don’t need to hire comedians.

PROPER WORK HOURS KEEP US HEALTHY AND HAPPY So why are full-time chefs expected to work 60 to 70 hours a week?

That’s unknown in other trades and industries, and is a key reason why people leave — not only their job, but the hospitality industry. By persisting with this crazy system, we fuel the shortages that cause so many problems. It might work for a 22-year-old, but by 35, they’ll be burnt out and gone.

RECOGNITION AND TIME OFF WITH FRIENDS, FAMILY, RECREATION AND PETS Saying thanks for a job well done, handling a crazy customer or offering congratulations on training results. Usually it’s verbal, but a short thankyou letter will be highly regarded — and kept. Yes, a real letter, not just an email or text; although they’re nice, too.

AN ORGANISED FEEDBACK SYSTEM ENCOURAGES POSITIVE COMMUNICATION At Tweed Heads Bowls Club, they have a busy staff feedback board, where staff can acknowledge someone who did a great job. To encourage contributions, there’s a monthly prize draw for everyone who is mentioned on the forms. If you have an internal website for staff or a private Facebook group, they’re also great places to encourage thanks and feedback. It starts at the top, and gradually people will get into the habit.

WELL-ORGANISED WORKSPACES MAKE US HAPPY When staff arrive for a shift, all the equipment should be clean, working and ready to go. Fridges should be stocked and work lists waiting. PC working smoothly and the till is easy to use. Anything to improve before the December rush?

STAFF SOCIAL EVENTS ARE IMPORTANT

Why Every Day Should be a Good One Happy, friendly and cheerful are all words you associate with hospitality, so it’s time to reintroduce them to your workplace vocabulary, writes Ken Burgin.

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Hospitality September 2017

Christmas parties are hard to fit in at the end of the year, but don’t forget to do something generous in its place. Sometimes, smaller, regular events have more impact than a big bang once a year, and lowkey socialising is happening all the time. People make friends with the people they work beside.

HELPING OTHERS CAN MAKE US HAPPY Staff and business contributions to a World Vision sponsor child, Oxfam or a local community group lifts everyone’s spirits. Take the lead and find a simple project to support.

MONEY MAKES US ALL HAPPY Good pay, tips and bonuses make staff smile, and a full till at the end of the shift makes the hard work worthwhile. Your profit strategies will give you the resources to buy equipment, repaint the walls, pay more for a good manager and afford the holiday you deserve.

AND A FEW THINGS THAT NEED TO STOP, SO YOU DON’T UNDERMINE THE POSITIVES: Who is on the team makes us happy, or not. Say goodbye to negative Nick or nasty Nancy — they can cause a lot of damage if left unchecked, and may be the reason happy Harry left after a few weeks.

Is it time to make some changes?

Unexpected surprises are upsetting, like a sudden change to the roster or reduction in shifts. It may be just paperwork to you, but could cause a loss of income or disruption to the person who’s had their shifts changed. Management needs flexibility and good staff want stability. n

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fast casual

Forward roll While the burger craze was drawing eyes to Sydney and Melbourne, Betty’s Burgers has been making waves in Noosa.

J

Nik Rollison, Michael Tripp and David Hales

ust when it looks like we’ve reached to hire the people and we want to control the peak burger season, another of the product that goes out.” souped-up sandwiches appears.

What does complete control look like and how They’re a stalwart of fast casual dining, do they achieve it? To begin with a lot of Betty’s When was the business established? but some variations are anything but chill. ingredients are made in-house — including the The flagship store was launched in Enter Betty’s Burgers. The burger hut with sauces — or prepped from scratch.

Noosa in December 2014. beach-shack vibes could please the most “We want a homemade feel,” says Tripp. “That’s diehard David Chang acolytes, keeping things what’s made us what we are and we don’t want Number of locations? Noosa, simple with a tight menu of just six Americanto lose that. So we don’t want things to be too Surfers Paradise, Robina, Melbourne, style burgers with sides, thickshakes and systematic or look too perfect. We don’t want the Toowoomba, Sydney, Broadbeach and concretes — better known as frozen custard buns to be cooked in a mould or the patties to be Brisbane. ice-creams mixed with ingredients ranging from perfectly round. Nothing should be too processed.”

Number of staff? 550. honeycomb and hot fudge to passionfruit cream Avoiding a cookie-cutter approach doesn’t Best-selling menu items? The classic and raspberries. mean consistency isn’t a concern, though, and burger, chocolate thickshake and the The brand was created when David Hales, when it comes to achieving it, training is key crispy chicken.

Nik Rollison and Michael Tripp saw an opening says Tripp. in the Sunshine Coast’s dining market.

“Attention to detail, consistency and Biggest challenge facing the business “We saw a gap in the market, particularly communication are our three biggest in 2017? Keeping quality consistent in Noosa, for fast casual offerings that were standpoints,” he says. “We hire people with the while opening numerous new stores. approachable, fresh, fast and appealing to a right attitude and train them for skill. Getting Growth plans for the year ahead? broad demographic,” says head chef Tripp. people to understand how things should look Betty’s Burgers is looking to open up The trio bounced around a few concepts, and taste as well as the reasons why.” approximately six new restaurants in landing on burgers after assessing the market Training is implemented by Hales, Rollison the next financial year. against their experiences dining around the world. and Tripp along with their team of operations After collaborating with designer Paul Kelly to tie managers. “We work in the business regularly, the look, feel, product and people together in a manning the grills and shop floor,” says Tripp. “We complete package, Betty’s Burgers was born and the mayhem begun. have a close network of people who have worked side-by-side with us that “The interest in Betty’s was crazy from day one — we had a we’ve trained to replicate the IP regardless of location.” franchisor request on the first day the restaurant opened,” says Tripp.

When it comes to other aspects of the business, Tripp recommends Although that may sound unbelievable for a single-venue brand taking a store-by-store approach. operating in a shire of just over 55,000 people, Noosa turned out to be “There are a lot of variables based on location, whether it be city the perfect test site for what has become a multi-state operation. or regional or a shopping centre. Staffing, opening times, approach to “The amount of people who come to Noosa and say, ‘We love market and advertising all need to adjust from store to store,” he says.

Betty’s, when are you coming to…’ gave us confidence,” says Tripp.

One thing that does hold true for all venues is the calibre of service.

With the number of stores fast approaching 10 and spanning “There doesn’t need to be as many steps or details when it comes to Melbourne, Sydney, the Gold Coast, Brisbane and Toowoomba, as well service, but whether you’re paying $10 for a cheeseburger or $350 for a as Noosa, maybe now is the time to try a franchise model. degustation, the level of service needs to be relative to the value,” says “At this stage, we haven’t actually entertained it at all,” says Tripp. “One, Tripp. “If you’re going to spend $20 on a meal, did the experience exceed we aren’t there yet. Two, we really want to maintain control. We want your expectations? Was there value for money?” n 14

Hospitality September 2017

At a glance

column

The real master chef Campbelltown Catholic Club’s Paul Rifkin worked hard for the title of executive chef, and he’s not going to let reality TV take it away from him.

H

aving worked as a professional chef for 40 years, I am very proud of the title of chef and angry at it being hijacked.

Recently, I weighed into a discussion on social media that was rubbishing TV cooking shows, with one in particular getting more attention than the others. I put up a balanced answer expressing my frustration with what was happening to the trade of cookery and I pointed out that we need to protect the trade and the profession of a chef. My concern was that it seems like any home cook could be called a ‘master chef’ by simply producing a portion of food on TV — with some assistance I’m sure.

So I posted my opinion on Instagram, Facebook and LinkedIn. I did not expect the raw nerve I had exposed. My followers are 99 percent industry professionals, and I expected some to view, like and comment. At the time of publication, the post has 20,000 views, hundreds of comments, reposts, shares and likes. All are in support of my concerns, with most expressing their frustration with how these shows have dragged down the trade of being a qualified chef.

You might say they have lifted the standard of produce in supermarkets, increased customer knowledge of food, driven customers to higher expectations of quality, changed farmer’s attention to better produce, raised the number of times a customer eats out each week — all in all, educated the dining public. They have made superstars of celebrity chefs and even created lucrative careers for a small number of them.

I totally agree with all of these things, however, my issue is what it has done to the career of being a chef. The numbers of apprentices are at an alltime low. Those that enter the kitchens these days, especially those who have been ‘inspired’ by modern cooking shows, do not last. They really think they can achieve greatness in a few weeks. This is the unseen damage being done to the youth, they perceive that anyone can become a master chef, read a cookbook, watch a show and boom, a chef!

These live competition cook-offs where an amateur is purported to be close to a professional chef with 10, 20 or 30 years’ experience is ridiculous.

What took some chefs a decade to master is trivialised as fodder for TV audiences and ratings.

Simulated real-life restaurant services are even worse. These are situations that take many years to master by career chefs. To pretend and demonstrate that an amateur can do it is an insult to the trade of cookery.

Customers are eating out more. Who is going to cook for them; TV contestants? n 16

Hospitality September 2017

“What took some chefs a decade to master is trivialised as fodder for TV audiences and ratings.”

Why not talk to us about your washroom needs today.

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drinks

Secrets of the World’s Best Bars Naren Young has some secrets to tell. Under his guidance, New York restaurant Saxon + Parole was crowned Best Restaurant Bar in America at Tales of the Cocktail in 2013 and 2016, while his new bar Dante currently ranks #34 on the prestigious list of the World’s 50 Best Bars compiled by Drinks International. He lets us inside his mind.

18 Hospitality September 2017

W

hen my friend Linden Pride tapped me to help curate and run the bar at Saxon + Parole, which opened in lower Manhattan in September 2010, I knew I was ready to finally create something truly world class. I had plied my trade in this business for almost two decades by that stage and the influences and philosophies that I’d collated in that time were ready to find an outlet. I was prepared, mentally at least, to bring these ideas to life and I knew that it would be an unwavering and acute focus on excellence that would bring success (and profits) to this hip new restaurant bar that had a crack team behind it.

I clearly remember my first day, looking through the downstairs storage freezers. Most of it was filled to the brim with frozen and

pasteurised lemon and lime juices. Oh dear!

Cue the eye roll. I threw the entire contents straight into the garbage where they belonged and from that moment on, I would insist that every single juice, purée and syrup be made by us, on the premises and fresh daily, when applicable. That means that we didn’t stock cranberry juice because we couldn’t make it ourselves.

That caused a bit of a stir with the owners who had never hired someone with this maniacal eye for detail who refused to cut corners. Their argument was that every bar in the world had cranberry juice, and therefore, we also had to stock it. My succinct response was, “Well I don’t want to be like every bar in the world. I want to be unlike every bar in the world.” Think about that for a minute. This

drinks

the cocktail geeks that descend on New York every day of the year, and that’s a shame.

The main thing I took away from my experiences there was that they seemed to pay inordinate attention to the smallest details in everything they did. This is not as easy as it sounds. I’ve often called it the ‘complete bar’, even though there are many better places around town to find intricately crafted cocktails. But that’s not the point, and it is their adroit focus on the minutiae that led me down the path to look at every tiny detail of a bar operation and implement that in every venue I’ve done to this day.

Truth is, it’s not the cocktails themselves that separate a good bar from a great one anymore. There are wonderful drinks being mixed all over the world now — more than any other time in history. It is taking a thoughtful, analytical approach to every part of a bar’s operation, focusing on the small details and always asking ‘why?’ that can set you on your way to developing a world-class bar program.

It is the bars that provide consistency across all levels, whether it be drinks, service, whatever, that will always rise above the pack.

Dante

philosophy would become one of my guiding mantras to this day. Each bar and bartender needs to find their own voice, and you don’t have to do anything because you feel obliged to or to be accepted as part of the status quo.

Where’s the originality in that?

This dedication to freshness might sound obvious, even rudimentary to many of you.

But keep in mind that very few bars in America (where I’ve been based since 2006) actually serve fresh juice. Sure, most of the modern craft cocktail bars do, but many of them follow this pursuit haphazardly. I’ve worked in some of the most high-profile bars in America where we squeezed our own citrus juices daily, but our pineapple, cranberry and apple juices were all generic bottled brands made from concentrate. I’m sorry, but that is NOT a fresh juice program.

My biggest inspiration was actually an iconic restaurant called the Gramercy Tavern — a place that would teach me many lessons and informs many of the decisions I still make today. I never worked in this place, but by spending countless hours (and money) at their long, legendary bar, there were many tiny details that made me realise what it would take to create one of the world’s best bars. This restaurant is not on the radar of

To do so on a daily basis requires ongoing training and discipline, and I cannot overstate the importance of both of these enough.

By providing your staff with the tools and knowledge to execute your vision, you will create a positive and dynamic culture among your team and hopefully create a sense of loyalty because they know they work in an environment with clear goals and a focus on constant higher leaning.

And this should never be measured by what and how many awards you win. The Artesian Bar in London was crowned the World’s Best Bar four years running. But I don’t believe it was their drinks that won over the judging panel (though in truth their drinks were very good). What they did better than anyone else, according to many accounts and not just my own, was coddle their guests. Greeted with a glass of champagne on arrival, it was a regal touch that certainly never went unnoticed.

And it’s these small gestures of hospitality that create memorable experiences for our guests. And isn’t that the whole point? n This article originally appeared in Bars & Clubs magazine.

“It is the bars that provide consistency across all levels, whether it be drinks, service, whatever, that will always rise above the pack.”

Saxon + Parole September 2017 Hospitality 19

The Rikshawwala from Proud Sprout Café

herbs and spices

The spice of life M any herbs and spices were originally used for health benefits, but they’ve become an essential part of a number of cuisines, and their distinctive characteristics are often one of the key identifying factors.

ANCIENT RITES Greek food is commonly associated with floral herbs including thyme, oregano and rosemary, but heavier spices such as cumin, cloves, nutmeg and cinnamon feature in a variety of regional dishes.

According to David Tsirekas, head chef at Sydney’s 1821, different regions of Greece use unique herbs and spices depending on historical influences.

“In the northern parts and near the Aegean, there are more of the Ottoman spices, including cinnamon and cloves,” says Tsirekas.

“In the south and west –– closer to Italy –– there are more Mediterranean herbs like thyme and rosemary.

“In Crete, there’s a combination of all those flavours. Greece is the bridge between the east and the west — you can see all those geographical influences in the herbs and spices that get used.”

The evolution of Greek cuisine is evidence of the pivotal role herbs and spices can play in the creation of national cuisines.

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Hospitality September 2017

“They can define a cuisine,” Tsirekas tells Hospitality. “If I can smell cloves and cinnamon, it’ll remind me of a dish my mother used to make. I can tell what part of Greece someone is from based on the herbs and spices they cook with.”

Although the herbs and spices used in Greek cuisine have remained unchanged for centuries, cooking methods have not –– access to better quality proteins and produce has meant chefs now use them to enhance a dish rather than as the main flavour source.

At 1821, Tsirekas takes inspiration from the Greek food he grew up eating and the works of ancient Greek writers including Archestratus to create dishes such as ouzocured salmon and stuffed calamari served with a tomato, honey and cinnamon sauce.

“The sauce is a classic combination,” says Tsirekas. “The three components go really well together and match with a lot of proteins.

“In ancient times, the herbs and spices were used for their health benefits or to flavour foods that were a bit ordinary or unpleasant like eel. Now it’s about using just a touch to lift a dish rather than to cover something up.”

THE FLAVOUR ENHANCERS Nepalese cuisine also has strong regional delineations, with the predominant herbs and

When it comes to cuisine-defining ingredients, herbs and spices take the cake. Madeline Woolway found out how they’ve shaped meals from Greece and Nepal to Australia.

spices differing across the country.

“I come from a high-altitude part of Nepal and the way we cook is very different compared to Kathmandu,” says Karishma Shrestha, who owns Proud Sprout Café in Melbourne with husband Waseem.

There are a few herbs and spices that tie Nepalese cuisine together, though.

Coriander, cumin, fenugreek seeds, green chilli, cardamom, ginger and garlic are used regularly alongside timur, a spice that’s related to Sichuan pepper.

“The main ones are fenugreek seeds and Sichuan pepper,” says Shrestha. “Our cuisine is quite simple and fresh, so having those herbs and spices like chilli, fresh coriander, Sichuan pepper and also black sesame seeds make a big difference. Without them you couldn’t really have Nepalese food.”

When Proud Sprout opens for dinner later this year, traditional Nepalese will be the focus of the menu, but for now, the kitchen team gives breakfast and lunch dishes a Nepalese twist using herbs and spices.

The Rikshawwala, for example, features cauliflower and potato spiced with cumin, coriander and chilli, fried eggs and roti paratha, while a Nepalese goat curry is served with cumin rice.

“The ideas come from the breakfasts we eat in Nepal, which are usually curries leftover from

herbs and spices

the night before served with roti,” says Shrestha.

“It’s a good way to introduce people to Nepalese, especially for breakfast. There’s not so much South Asian or Nepalese style of food for breakfast in Australia, but the herbs and spices are good for you and give lots of flavour.”

TOWARDS AN AUSTRALIAN CUISINE Many herbs and spices were brought to Australia during various waves of immigration.

Mediterranean herbs arrived after the Second World War, while South-East Asian, Indian and Middle Eastern favourites have since made their mark.

But Australia has its own bounty of native herbs and spices, many of which have unique flavour profiles.

“Rene [Redzepi] was so interested in what we have here,” says Clayton Donovan, chef/owner of Jaaning Tree. “It’s embarrassing, though, when you talk to chefs from overseas and realise how little our chefs know about what we have here.

“There needs to be more education about our spices. I’m lucky because I’ve been learning since I was a kid.”

While there’s still a long way to go, Donovan is encouraged by the progress that’s occurred in the last decade.

“It’s totally different to the ’80s and ’90s when there was a fear factor. There’s a lot of change coming in the next couple of years. There’s just too much focus on it now,” he tells Hospitality.

“There’s some really great stuff coming out of what was just a trend.”

For chefs looking to get started, Donovan recommends a mix of research and experimentation.

“I do a lot of experimenting and there’s a lot of trial and error. It’s good to get out of your comfort zone,” he says.

Common native spices including lemon myrtle, aniseed myrtle and wattleseed make good entry points because they have comparable profiles to other spices.

“Aniseed and lemon myrtles have common flavours that are easy to understand. Wattleseed can make a really good seasoning and it works well emulsified with butter over roast vegetables like carrots,” says Donovan.

Whole dried lemon myrtle leaves have similar characteristics to lemongrass and can be used like bay leaves. In the same vein, aniseed myrtle is similar to star anise. But Strawberry gum is its own beast says Donovan, who has been experimenting with various gums and tea tree.

“Strawberry gum is super unique. But it’s still something you can build into your repertoire,” he says. “I’ve been using lemon gum to smoke different proteins and I’ve been using tea trees for infusions.”

The combination of unique and familiar flavours that distinguish native spices might make them the X factor that will help establish an Australian cuisine.

“We need a theme to get a cuisine going, and herbs and spices could play a role in that.” n

1821’s autumn menu.

Photography by Dominic Loneragan

“They can define a cuisine. If I can smell cloves and cinnamon, it’ll remind me of a dish my mother used to make.” – David Tsirekas

1821’s ouzo-cured salmon

September 2017 Hospitality 21

kitchen equipment

Kitchen Talk Hospitality heads into the kitchen to find out which pieces of equipment chefs can’t live without. By Annabelle Cloros.

F

rom combi ovens to deep fryers and the humble refrigerator — the bond runs deep between chefs and their kitchen equipment. These hunks of steel, plastic — and whatever other material you can think of — play a crucial role in education, training, efficiency, productivity and innovation. We spoke to executive chef Adrian Li from Melbourne’s Tokyo Tina, head chef Kristin Hooper from Manly Wharf Hotel and head chef Julian Cinotta from Butter about their weapons of choice when it comes to running a tight ship.

There are a handful of old favourites that spring to mind when it comes to kitchen essentials, and a combi oven is often the front runner. “Our combi ovens are the heart and soul of our kitchens,” says Li. “We rely on them to keep up with the volume our restaurants are known for and they are used almost every day of the year for overnight cooking, steaming buns and roasting proteins.”

A credit to their size and innovative features, combi ovens have a number of valuable features that make life significantly easier for chefs including a range of cooking modes and programs, self-cleaning abilities, app monitoring, individual rack monitoring, maximum loads and most importantly, consistent results. “We have a 5 Senses Rational oven, says Li. “The oven’s automation and ability to cook at even temperatures allows us to slow cook overnight and hold meats at specific temperatures, so it streamlines our kitchen efficiency. They are an essential part of our everyday procedures and almost every section uses the ovens at some stage in the day as part of their prep process.”

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Hospitality September 2017

Tokyo Tina’s kitchen

At Butter, it’s all about the fryer. The fried chicken purveyor has three Pitco fryers the team heavily relies on to create their signature products. “Fried chicken is the basis of our restaurant, so we knew we needed a highly reliable fryer for the job,” says Cinotta. “We tested many brands and this came out best by far.”

To meet high demand, Butter’s fryers are all high-volume pieces of equipment. “They have four barrel flame elements that kick in when the temperature drops a few degrees, keeping the oil at optimum temperature for creating a crispy, non-oily coating,” says Cinotta. And when it comes to productivity, programmed cooking times play a significant role in ensuring consistency in the kitchen. “They have an electronic control pad with timers that are programmed for each of our products which makes cooking less variable, but we still train our chefs to use a thermometer to double-check our product. The fryers also have a great in-built filtration system, which means we get to keep cooking with the cleanest oil to produce the best-quality fried chicken.”

Following closely behind is the bratt pan, which rolls efficiency and productivity into one. For Kristin Hooper, the bratt pan is the piece of equipment she relies upon the most.

“Our bratt pan is the most important piece of kitchen equipment at Manly Wharf Hotel,” she says. “We use it almost every day.”

Thanks to its ability to perform a number of cooking functions including braising, roasting, steaming, boiling and frying, the bratt pan caters for busy restaurants with large numbers of people ordering a range of dishes.

“The bratt pan helps us make large batches

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Kristin Hooper

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kitchen equipment

Adrian Li

of food at once such as beef and vegetable nachos, stocks and sauces,” says Hooper.

When it comes to education in the kitchen, understanding how to use these beasts is not as easy as following an instruction manual. At Butter, taking the time to inform staff about the intricacies of equipment is a must when new staff come on board. “All new chefs/cooks go through a three-day training process of our operation, of which the fryers are a component,” says Cinotta. “The fryer is quite simple to use, so the focus of the training is more around our processes and how the equipment fits into these processes. It’s all about flow and using the piece of equipment right. Then there is a clean-down procedure during the day and deep cleans at the end of each service.”

Not typically tapped as a primary source of inspiration, equipment plays an underhyped role in menu innovation, prompting

chefs to try something new. But innovation comes at a cost, and most venues invest in new equipment on an annual basis. “We have a planned budget every year, and as a team, we choose a specific product to update or invest in,” says Li. “We would love a few blast chillers for the kitchen so we can produce some more desserts and have the ability to snap-freeze things.” For Hooper, a new vacuum packer and a sous vide machine are on the wish list. “The vacuum packer is my favourite — it’s great for food safety and prolonging shelf life,” she says. Understandably, Butter is on the hunt for more fryers — which means Cinotta can “cook more juicy, crispy, fried chicken for everyone to enjoy”. Whatever your poison, there’s no doubt kitchen equipment is only getting smarter, making investing in these pieces a no-brainer. n

“We have a 5 Senses Rational oven. The oven’s automation and ability to cook at even temperatures allows us to slow cook overnight and hold meats at specific temperatures, so it streamlines our kitchen efficiency. They are an essential part of our everyday procedures.” – Adrian Li Butter in Sydney

24 Hospitality September 2017

pickling Cornersmith’s spring preserving

In a pickle T

From decreasing food waste to twang and gut-loving qualities, is pickling all things to all people? writes Annabelle Cloros.

he art of pickling is big bucks thanks to their probiotic properties, making them part of a multi-billion-dollar industry. Pickles are appearing everywhere from pickle juice ice pops (yes, really) to ploughman’s plates, salads and burgers. More than just a flavour hit, pickling has turned into a movement of sorts, with consumers and venues alike turning a treasured pastime into bragging rights.

PICKLING 101 Pickling is in our DNA. And nowhere is this more evident than at McClure’s Pickles. Keeping traditions alive is often a family affair, and such is the case for brothers Bob and Joe McClure, who grew up in Michigan making pickles using their Great Grandmother Lala’s recipe.

After the brothers had a crack at ‘conventional’ careers — studying classical guitar and working in television — they decided to test the waters and see if the old-school recipe was viable as a successful business.

Like most start-ups, the pair took to the streets and started with venues, taking jars to bars, restaurants and specialty food stores. They soon hit it big when their pickles were put on show in the New York Times’ food section.

After making batches in Brooklyn and Michigan, the McClure’s decided to move all manufacturing to their factory in Michigan, which is coincidentally one of the largest cucumber growers in the US — go figure.

“Our produce is locally sourced in Michigan as much as possible, but with our short growing season, we receive produce from farmers as far south as Alabama,” says Bob McClure. “In

McClure’s pickle production line

“Reducing waste and food miles along with seasonal eating is all addressed when you learn to preserve and you become a more mindful consumer.”

– Alex Elliot-Howery

the winter months, we rely on family farms in Mexico to keep our factory running yearround.” Seasonal produce is a major issue in the industry, but thanks to Mexico’s growing climate, there’s a constant stream of supply for businesses to capitalise on.

McClure’s use vinegar as their preferred pickling technique and a homegrown touch is still present, with all cucumbers carefully hand-sliced and hand-packed into jars. “Recipes including our Garlic Dill and Spicy varieties use all-natural, organic elements with no added preservatives,” says McClure. “Besides the pickles, the brine itself is delicious, with many people drinking it straight from the jar.”

So what’s the pickling process? First, cucumbers are washed, placed in a bowl and covered in ice to prevent sogginess. Fresh garlic cloves are peeled and covered in hot vinegar for a minute or so, which prevents the garlic from turning blue. Equal parts water and white vinegar are boiled with pickling salt.

Cucumbers are trimmed to equal lengths and placed in jars with garlic cloves and a handful of dill before being covered with hot brine and topped off with a lid. One to two weeks later, the pickles are ready for eating.

Due to the crisp flavour profile of pickles, the McClure’s encourage venues to use them as a palate cleanser, along with their betterknown role on charcuterie boards, burgers and sandwiches.

“Our Spicy Whole, which is based on Lala’s recipe, is an incredibly sour, strong, snappy garlic dill pickle with a layered heat of peppers and a clean aftertaste,” says McClure.

Mimmo Lubrano from Sandhurst Fine September 2017 Hospitality

25

pickling

McClure’s cucumbers are sourced from Mexico and Michigan Cornersmith fermenting class

Foods agrees with using pickles to cut the fat. “Pickles are perfect paired with a product that is high in fat as they balance out cheeses and small goods,” he says. “Fermented and cured products are driven by a preference for vegetarian options [that are] low-cost solutions for food service operators.”

HOMEGROWN HEROES On a local level, Marrickville café Cornersmith are one of the Sydney pioneers of pickling.

After Alex Elliott-Howery noticed overflowing trees in the Inner West, she offered to rehome Cornersmith’s ploughman’s plate

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Hospitality September 2017

the neglected fruit and veg in a bath of brine.

“Learning to pickle coincided with my growing interest in eating ethically,” says ElliottHowery. “As a traditional food skill, pickling is about using the best seasonal produce to preserve for later.”

Like McClure’s, Cornersmith chooses to use vinegar-based pickling, but also dabble in lacto-fermented pickles, too, with Elliott-Howery admitting “both are delicious”. Lacto-fermented pickles have one thing other pickles don’t — probiotics.

Lacto pickles are made in a non-sterilised environment where healthy bacteria grows during the fermentation process, resulting in gut-loving probiotics.

In terms of produce, there are a number of fruit and vegetables suitable for pickling, and Cornersmith opts to pickle top-quality seasonal produce to preserve for later. The café pickles everything from fennel and grapes to cumquats and cucumbers.

“We get much of our produce from Shane Roberts, who has great relationships with Sydney Basin producers, as being well supplied with our own backyard trading scheme,” says Elliott-Howery. “This is where local residences bring us their gluts of backyard produce — in winter, we traded hundreds of kilos of citrus!”

As for Elliott-Howery’s thoughts on the rise of pickles? “Probably for the same reasons that attracted us to the process — people wanting to change the way they consume food,” she says. “Reducing waste and food miles along with seasonal eating is all addressed when you learn to preserve and you become a more mindful consumer.” n

beer

A perfect match Wine has long been the darling of hospitality, with sommeliers taking pride in offering guests the best match for their meals.

Despite growing interest, beer has remained a second thought when it comes to food pairing, writes Madeline Woolway.

A beer and curry match from Mekong

W

hen it comes to food pairing, wine seems like the natural choice. Restaurants carefully construct wine lists to match what’s on offer from the kitchen and esteemed sommeliers are awarded for their efforts. Beer, on the other hand, has a much more checkered past. But times have changed, and the Australian beer market is no longer made up of a handful of uninspiring lagers — craft breweries are growing in number and they’re changing the fate of beer.

“It’s been the rule forever that if you’re going to pair anything with food, it should be wine,” says Matt Marinich, venue manager at Stomping Ground Brewing Co. in Melbourne.

“But beer has one main thing that makes it far more versatile — carbonation, which leads to bright aromatics.”

Even though wine has a range of different aromatics, too, says Marinich, the carbonation in beer elevates its esters, phenols and fruit aromas, making it capable of complementing or contrasting with food in a distinct way.

According to Corey Crooks, who owns and runs The Grain Store in Newcastle with partner Kristy, beer has more complexity and variations than people realise. At The Grain Store, 21 taps rotate through roughly 40 beers each week, with styles running the gamut from pale ales to stouts, IPAs, sours and more uncommon styles.

“We’re trying to change people’s minds,” says Crooks. “It’s not just about wine and food anymore. There are things you can do with beer that you can’t do with wine. It’s 28

Hospitality

September 2017

frustrating to go out to restaurants and see that they’ve spent years compiling their wine list and then their beer list reads like a walk up the aisle at Dan Murphy’s.”

Executive chef at Sydney’s Mekong Tiw Rakarin agrees that beer should receive as much attention as wine when drinks lists are designed.

“The amount of quality craft beer produced locally in Sydney is astounding,” he says.

“There’s really no reason venues can’t have a beer list that rivals their wines.”

BEER PAIRING BASICS The sheer range of beers available may be overwhelming at first, but there are a few key rules that venues can follow to maximise its potential when pairing with food.

“I think the increasing number of craft beers and the emergence of quality, local boutique breweries has reinvigorated beer as a beverage, allowing for fresh, inventive pairings,” says Rakarin.

When designing the pairings for Mekong’s Craft Beer and Curry series, which has seen the South-East Asian venue team up with Sydney breweries to match their brews with Indochine curries, Rakarin is focused on using beer to soften the curries’ spice.

“Beer pairs particularly well with curry as the bitterness receptors in the palate are activated by the bitterness in the beer, adding mouthfeel and cleansing the palate in between mouthfuls,” says Rakarin.

“The hoppier the beer, the better it pairs with curry as the bitterness of the hops cancels out the spice of the curry.”

Cutting through is just one of ‘the three C’s’ that Crooks and his team at The Grain Store use to create matches.

“Beer and food pairing is about complementing, contrasting and cutting through,” says Crooks.

“For complementing, an obvious one is a chocolate dessert with a nice chocolate stout: they’re similar flavours that work together.

People can often work these ones out for themselves, so we try to focus on contrasting and cutting through.”

Stomping Ground Brewing Co. has a similar system in place.

“When complementing, you can use similar flavours to accentuate one side of the pairing or you can use them to cancel one side out,” says Marinich. “You could pair a smoky beer with double-smoked pork ribs to cancel out some of the smokiness on either side of the pairing.

“Contrasting is probably one of the most exciting options. You can use opposing flavours to highlight a pleasant flavour on either side of the pairing like the classic pairing of Belgianstyle mussels served with a Gueuze, which is an extremely sour and acidic Belgian-style beer.

It makes the Gueuze richer and sweeter.

“You can cut through as well. So you could use the bitterness of an IPA to cut through the fattiness of pork belly or carbonara. Or you could use a beer with a malt-driven sweetness to counter the heat of chilli.”

This last ‘C’ is Crooks’ favourite. “Cutting through is the one I think can really make people understand the potential of beer and food pairing,” he says.

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beer

STOKING THE FIRE When it comes to encouraging diners to give beer and food matching a go, degustation dinners and events provide an opportunity to drum up interest. Both The Grain Store and Stomping Ground Brewing Co. have run events similar to Mekong’s Craft Beer and Curry series.

In August, Stomping Ground Brewing Co. teamed up with Me & Mabel catering to host the Ground Me Vegetarian Beer Degustation.

“It’s very interesting to pair vegetables and beer because you have a lot of earthy, juicy characteristics that come through in different fruits and vegetables,” says Marinich.

The team generally works food first then beer, even when it comes to events like the vegetarian degustation, when they don’t know exactly what’s coming until the day.

“We’re lucky enough to have more than 20 beers on tap, ranging from four to 10 percent ABV and in a number of different styles.

“We also have five certified cicerones [beer sommeliers] on staff who formulate different pairings and tastings. This is probably the seventh or eighth event we’ve used to really engage with the pairings deliberately.”

The best thing about degustations, says Marinich, is that you can alternate between each of the three C’s, which makes it easy to convey knowledge to diners.

Crooks also likes to use degustations to help transfer information to diners because it can be hard to explain the concepts properly during a normal busy service.

Another pairing from Mekong’s Craft Beer and Curry Series

Pork ribs from The Grain Store pair well with IPAs. Photography

by Emily Jane

“It’s very interesting to pair vegetables and beer because you have a lot of earthy, juicy characteristics that come through in different fruits and vegetables.” – Matt Marinich “We do monthly degustations, so we can really set up the pairings then,” says Crooks.

The process is flipped at The Grain Store, though, with Crooks saying the team prefers to decide on beers and then choose food.

“If we can understand the beers, we can really work on designing the menu around those three C’s.”

Rakarin also allows the beers to dictate the pairings.

“I worked with the brewers themselves and the product, sampling the distinct notes in the beers and allowing their individual nuances to dictate the flavours of the food pairings,” he says.

This process led to pairing a Freshwater

30 Hospitality September 2017

pale ale with sour notes with a Cambodian sour pork curry, which Rakarin says is a great example of successful complementing.

It’s not just diners who need exposure to all that beer and food pairing can offer.

“It’s getting chefs and venue operators on board. Mid-level venues are doing a great job highlighting regional wineries — we’re on track to reach 500 breweries in Australia this year, so it’d be great to see restaurants supporting their local brewers, too,” says Crooks.

“I think we’ll get there, but we’re still a fair way off.”

With venues like The Grain Store, Stomping Ground Brewing Co. and Mekong leading the way, hopefully it’s sooner rather than later. n

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The perfect pair

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Johnnie Walker has announced the release of Johnnie & Ginger, a premix that’s ready to drink. Available in bottle and can format, the beverage combines the depth of 35 malt and grain whiskies that make up Johnnie Walker Red Label with natural ginger ale. Johnnie & Ginger is available to purchase from liquor retailers. Bottles will be sold in packs of four and cans will be sold in packs of six. johnniewalker.com/en-au

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The Equalizer’s feet adjust (compressing and expanding) and then lock in place. Equalizers also let users to align multiple, adjoining tabletops by tilting or lifting the tabletop. Equalizers are $29.95 per pack. Use code freeEQAUS at checkout to receive a free pack with your first order (conditions apply). flattech.com

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Tiger Buck beef jerky has launched nationally in good bars and quality retailers. Tiger Buck uses no artificial flavours or colours and is made from raw, unprocessed Australian beef. The product is gluten-free and low in fat, making it a great source of protein. The jerky is medium–soft in texture and boasts smoky barbecue notes. tigerbuck.com.au

32 Hospitality September 2017

The Food Crafters’ gluten-free cookie range encompasses three varieties including Raw Cacao, Double Coconut and Ginger and Date.

The product uses a combination of natural ingredients to provide the taste and texture expected of a cookie. Through the inclusion of buckwheat kibbles, The Food Crafters combat the texture issue and simultaneously improve the nutritional content of the range. The cookies remain low in starch and therefore do not spike sugar levels. foodcrafters.com.au

For the diary Upcoming events in the hospitality industry. Find out more at hospitalitymagazine.com.au S.Pellegrino Young Chef Pacific Regional Final 11 September, 2017 The S.Pellegrino Young Chef Pacific Regional Final will take place at Crown Melbourne Culinarium. Judged by Christine Manfield, Scott Pickett, Paul Carmichael, Andrew McConnell and Jacques Reymond, 10 semi-finalists will cook their signature dish based on the five Golden Rules: ingredients, skill, genius, beauty and message. By the end of December 2017, 21 young chefs will be announced as official finalists and move on the Grand Finale in June 2018. sanpellegrino.com/au/en/

Fine Food Australia 11–14 September, 2017 Held at the ICC Sydney, Fine Food Australia is the country’s largest tradeshow for the foodservice industry. It will include event favourites such as the Australian Culinary Challenge, the Café Stage, the Nestlé Golden Chef’s Hat Competition, the Talking Food Stage and The

Official Great Aussie Pie and Sausage Roll Competition. The Commercial Drinks show is a new addition for 2017 and will run alongside Fine Food Australia. finefoodaustralia.com.au

Smart Operator Workshops 26 September, 2017 The workshop is an exclusive one-day event for café, restaurant and foodservice operators.

Hosted by Ken Burgin from Profitable Hospitality, attendees will learn about the latest industry trends, business development, menu planning, cost control, marketing, staff management and productivity improvements.

Plus, first-hand legal, accounting and industrial relations advice and the opportunity to network with other operators. profitablehospitality.com.au

Brew & the Moo 11 November After a sell-out event in 2016, Brew & the Moo

is back on Saturday 11 November. The Pilbara’s premier beef and beer festival will be based in Dampier, a seaside suburb that features beach-front views. Brew & the Moo will work closely with chefs to create mouth-watering beef menus that pair perfectly with a variety of beers. This year, local vendors will showcase innovative dishes and promote locally sourced produce. brewandthemoo.com.au

Margaret River Gourmet Escape 16–19 November To celebrate 50 years of commercial wine production, Margaret River Gourmet Escape presented by Audi will return with an extra day added to the program. Showcasing new events and talent, the program is spread across four days and puts Margaret River’s food and wine front and centre. Curtis Stone will join more than 50 leading food and wine personalities at the event including Andre Chaing and Alex Atala. gourmetescape.com.au

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September 2017 Hospitality

33

5 minutes with...

Crispy pork

Dai Duong owner/chef, Uncle

W

Dai Duong

Less than two decades ago, Dai Duong hadn’t even contemplated a career in the kitchen. Now, the chef and co-owner of Uncle has opened the venue’s second iteration in Melbourne’s CBD.

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Hospitality September 2017

e are very fortunate here in Australia as produce is plentiful and abundant, whereas Vietnam is still a developing country. Especially after the war, it was very hard to get certain ingredients. My parents said it was a very hard time after the war to get food and water — that’s why they decided to escape and become refugees.

Nowadays, Vietnam does export a lot of products to the world and it’s not that hard to get them here in Australia. If I’m having trouble locating a particular ingredient, I just ask one of my relatives to bring it back next time they are over. I used to have these dried anchovies on the menu that came from Phan Thiet were I was born. My father came back with a suitcase full of them. Sorry to say, we were sold out in six months, so I’m waiting for Dad to go on another holiday back to Vietnam.

Twenty years ago, it was very hard to get exotic produce that we have today, so you would have to substitute it with something else.

The customer’s palate has changed a lot, too.

I have discovered the popular dishes at Uncle are the ones I enjoy eating at home myself. So when I write a menu or create a dish I think to myself, “If I went out to a restaurant, what would I want to eat?”

Fusion was such a negative word back when I was a young chef, nowadays I don’t mind it. I think a lot of chefs, including myself, enjoy using seasonal and local ingredients and

ingredients and flavour combinations that work.

Who doesn’t like Kewpie mayo? I love the stuff, and just because it’s a Japanese product, why can’t I use it at my Vietnamese restaurant?

The two Uncle venues are similar, but also very different. Both venues are designed by Foolscap Studio, and while they have their own individual personalities, both have the same feel when you walk up those stairs. I also decided to create two different menus. I like to challenge myself and my staff and it gives customers a variety of choices when they come into Uncle.

My business partner Rene Spence and I decided to open Uncle because we wanted to work together and surround ourselves with likeminded people. Our mission is to remind people what hospitality is. Good food and great service in a venue that is fun and enjoyable. Our staff are also a priority just as much as our customers.

I’m very blessed to work with my team.

They are the best bunch of weird and passionate people. At first, it was very hard to let go and not run both kitchens my way. I’m not a control freak, but I really enjoy the day-to-day working of the kitchen.

My two head chefs Jack and Kush are great and I have full confidence in them. I also love watching the junior chefs step up to be promoted to sous chefs. These days I find myself working on cold larder more often than ever before. I don’t mind not running the pass — watching the guys run a smooth service makes me super happy! n

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