Professional Beauty January-February 2018 by The Intermedia Group

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JANâ&#x20AC;¢FEB 2018 INFORMATION. INNOVATION. INSPIRATION.

THE BIG clean-up Living on the fault line

Avoiding the business blame game

Wash your skin cares away

UN-HAPPY HOUR Calling last drinks

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30 our targeted treatment, in a time-efficient 30 minutes Dermalogica Experts work with clients to target clientsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; top skin concern with this high-impact service. Repair signs of ageing, clear breakouts or resurface skin for a healthy glow. In just 30 minutes!

60 the ultimate treatment, different every time Ideal for clients looking for the utmost bespoke treatment experience with hightech, high-touch and professional-grade products. This service targets multiple skin concerns and customer wellness in 60 minutes and is different every time.

Discover more at dermalogica.com.au or call us on 1800 659 118

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CONTENTS

January/February 2018 PUBLISHER BHA MEDIA BHA MEDIA MANAGING DIRECTOR Glenn Silburn MANAGING EDITOR Sarah Bowing sarah@intermedia.com.au BEAUTY EDITOR Michelle Ruzzene mruzzene@intermedia.com.au ONLINE AND NEWS EDITOR Jenny Berich jberich@intermedia.com.au BEAUTY JOURNALISTS Ruth Cooper rcooper@intermedia.com.au NATIONAL ADVERTISING MANAGER Kelly Kilic kkilic@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper

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GROUP ART DIRECTOR Sanja Spuzanic HEAD OF CIRCULATION Chris Blacklock cblacklock@intermedia.com.au Professional Beauty magazine is published by BHA MEDIA ABN 23142047943 41 Bridge Road, Glebe NSW 2037 Ph: 02 9660 2113 Fax: 02 9660 4419 www.intermedia.com.au AUSTRALIAN SUBSCRIPTION RATES 1yr (6 issues) for $89.00 (inc GST) 2yrs (12 issues) for $160.20 (inc GST) 3yrs (18 issues) for $213.60 (inc GST) To subscribe and to view other overseas rates visit www.intermedia.com.au or Call: 1800 651 422 Email: subscriptions@intermedia.com.au Average Total Distribution: 9,038 AMAA/CAB Publisher Statement Period ending 30 Sept 2017.

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72 This publication is published by BHA MEDIA, a division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication.

MANAGING EDITOR’S LETTER

As we embark on a new year, you may be feeling somewhat nervous about everything from house prices to the rise in online shopping. By all reputable accounts, the rich are getting richer and the poor, poorer, but the internet is accessible to all of us. The immediate appeal of online retailing lies in its convenience and cost, but where it will never succeed is in replicating the power of physical human contact.

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News Cover story Skincare – new products Skincare – hyaluronic acids Skincare – foaming cleansers HABA - the helping hand Cosmoprof Asia Dr Baumann Makeup – pink lipstick Makeup – blush Makeup – new products Polished beauty Tanning – new products Tanning - master at work Spotlight on Lycon When, where and why of wax Waxing – new products Industry insight Jax Wax Nails - oranges and lemons Nails – new products Nails – hardeners Your 10 best accessories Equipment – new products The invisible (wo)man Igniting the spark Unhappy hour The Midas touch Probiotics

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Check your blind spot Industry roundtable 3 – retail sales Supplier in demand Advanced Cosmeceuticals The many minds of Eve Meet, train, elevate Solar damage Take the pressure down Fault line All systems go Workforce Guardian Front of house 60 seconds with Events Ad index

ON THE COVER

Jane Wurwand, co-founder and chief visionary of Dermalogica and The International Dermal Institute, is an innovative business visionary who opens doors for global women’s economic empowerment. Dermalogica products are the number one choice of more than 100,000 professional skin therapists in more than 100 countries worldwide. Contact: www.dermalogica.com.au 1800 659 118.

Reality is the ultimate antidote to the virtual world. You are a person-to-person industry; the healing, calming, nature of touch never dissipates – and only you and your staff can provide this. The upside is that the increased awareness the internet offers consumers will drive them to you. Just as a map directs you to your destination, online beauty information fills in the gaps in the client’s knowledge in readiness for the experience of being treated in the salon environment. While products can be bought online, their results cannot be ordered. It is also what I have prided myself on delivering to you, the readers, for over 20 years. However, doors open to allow us to walk through if and when we are ready, and so I find myself writing my last letter to thank you for the privilege of bringing you the best this great industry has to offer for so long. It has been a wonderful experience that now comes with my wishes for your happiness and success for this year and all those ahead. Goodbye - be strong and be true!

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

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NEWS

PINTEREST REVEALS 2018 TRENDS

Pinterest has analysed the search-and-save patterns of its ‘4 8 million beauty pinners’ to discover this year’s Top 10 beauty trends. The company believes the trends within it (listed below) can help businesses find new ways to connect with their audience. Next-level lashes: Brows are still big, but all eyes are on long, lush lashes and how to get them (searches for ‘lashes’ +152%). Oil, beauty’s biggest overachiever: The unexpected beauty product for softer skin, smoother hair and shinier lips (saves for ‘cleansing oil’ +555%). 50 shades of you: More skin tones, from the fairest to the darkest, are being covered in new shade-inclusive foundation lines (saves for ‘complexion matching’ +378%). What about the bob? Everyone with a lob or bob is taking it to extremes with longer locks and playful pixies (saves for ‘long hair’ and ‘pixie’ +130%). Graphic (nail) design: Geometric and negative space manicures are a fun way to flash some personality (searches for ‘geometric nails’ +83%). Bright eyes: Neon under liner or inner shadow creates edgy, look-at-me eyes (searches for ‘bright eyeshadow’ +63%). This is how we roll: From ice and derma, to jade and quartz, facial rollers are a beloved beauty tool (saves for ‘derma roller’ +345%). All-in-one kits: Makeup aisles can be intimidating, so people are picking up curated kits and looking for tutorials to build their own (saves for ‘makeup kit’ +147%). Lips love tints: A sheer or matte tint is the perfect starter lipstick – it’s affordable, easy to use and punches up the colour (saves for ‘lip tint’ +414%). Wet and wild hair: Prepare to see a lot of super slicked-back styles and all kinds of curls—yep, even perms (saves for ‘slicked back’ and ‘wavy’ +166%).

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OZ DERMATOLOGIST WARNS OF COSMETIC TATTOO DANGERS

A leading dermatologist has warned Australians to “think very carefully” before getting an eyebrow, eyeliner or lip liner tattoo – locally or overseas. Dr Philip Bekhor, a specialist in procedural dermatology, is seeing increasing numbers of “incompetent” cosmetic tattoos at his Laser Dermatology clinic in Melbourne. Although he is able remove most of the tattoos with a laser, Dr Bekhor says many are untreatable due to the fact that tattooists have already tried to correct and/or camouflage their inking mistakes. “If ink is placed in the wrong place, it is essential that the client attend a respected medical tattoo removal clinic rather than have the cosmetic tattoo interfered with by the cosmetician who created it,” he said. He explained that “over-tattooing of placement errors with white flesh tinted pigment” to correct eyeliner, eyebrow and lip liner tattooing “is an unmitigated disaster”. “The flesh and white pigment never works properly and if we use tattoo laser it will turn the pigment black – a particularly unpleasant event in the case of lip liner tattoos.” Dr Bekhor said that it was important that consumers realised that medical tattoo removal clinics could safely and effectively remove cosmetic tattoos with lasers such as the PicoSure which he uses in his clinic.

CHLOE MORELLO ATTACKS FAKE BEAUTY INFLUENCERS

Australia’s biggest beauty influencer Chloe Morello has attacked beauty influencers who are “committing fraud” by buying fake followers and garnering false ‘likes’ and ‘comments’ for their Instagram accounts. Speaking in a video posted on YouTube, Morello, who has more than 2.3 million subscribers on her channel and around 1 million followers on Instagram, said the fake influencers were behaving fraudulently to garner products, overseas trips and cash. Readily acknowledging that it was understandable that “so many people” want to be an influencer” as influencers like her “get paid to promote products, get sent away on trips, get to go to really cool events and get gifted so much cool stuff”, Morello said it was still wrong to create false accounts. Morello, who started her online career in 2008, said her complaints about fake influencers were targeted at the Australian beauty industry which was investing “so much money and products” in fake influencers. “I am mostly hoping the Australian beauty industry will see it [her YouTube video] and hopefully it will just clue them in on some of the stuff that is happening, she said. “Brands are paying thousands of dollars for posts with these people (and at the end of the day the brand is investing their money to sell product) … but some of these people don’t have a real following …” Morello stressed that fake influencers should not be dismissed as “harmless” as beauty brands fooled into believing the accounts are real and invest in them.

NEWS SKINCARE SET TO DOMINATE ONLINE SALES

REED APPOINTS NEW BEAUTY EXPO DIRECTOR

Reed Exhibitions has appointed Cory Watson, the current head of Fairfax’s Essential Baby & Toddler Show, as the new director of Beauty Expo Australia, Beauty Expo Melbourne and Hair Expo Australia. Cory’s appointment follows Julia Erben’s decision to step down from the role. Announcing the change in directors, Reed said senior leadership at the company “are appreciative of Julia’s many years of dedication and passion for the hair and beauty industries, and are excited to welcome Cory to the company as leader of the Hair & Beauty portfolio”. Julia said that “after nine wonderful years at the helm of Reed’s Hair and Beauty expos” she has decided to relocate to Europe to spend time with her family. Julia stressed that her departure would not negatively impact the expos. “Hair Expo and Beauty Expo have an experienced team who are preparing amazing shows for 2018,” she said. “The event programs for Beauty Expo Melbourne and Hair Expo Australia have already been finalised, with new packages, exciting brands on board, and internationals artists secured – I have no doubt that they will be fabulous shows that will serve to inspire our visitors.” Julia’s time with Reed saw the events “move from strength to strength” with Hair Expo Australia winning ‘Best Show Overall’ at the 2016 EEAA Awards, and Beauty Expo Australia “reaching huge milestones for its 2017 edition at the new International Convention Centre in Darling Harbour”. Cory has more than 16 years’ experience in event management specialising in sales, marketing, sponsorship, people management, training, and event production. She is currently Head of Parenting at Fairfax Events where her portfolio includes the Essential Baby & Toddler Show and the Kidtopia Festival.

Skincare products are expected to lead the growth in the global online premium cosmetics market for the next five years. According to the latest market research report by Technavio, the global market is expected to grow around 10 percent a year from 2017 to 2021 with skincare’s share of the overall market expected to increase even faster. Narendra Nandaigari, Technavio’s lead analyst of retail goods and services, said the skincare segment, which accounted for nearly 38 percent of sales in the skincare segment, is “expected to witness significant growth because of the increasing consciousness and awareness of skin health among consumers”. “Customers are increasingly opting for premium skin care products that contain high-quality ingredients and promise effective results,” she said “The increase in digitalisation and Internet penetration has enabled the availability of various skin care products online, which has significantly influenced market growth. “The target consumer group in this market comprises millennials, most of who are health and style conscious and are highly adept at using technology. “This demographic is attracted by brands, such as Estée Lauder and L’Oreal, that have a wide social media presence.”

SOLAIRE WINS ‘SUPERNATIONAL’ COVERAGE

Solaire’s sponsorship of its first beauty pageant, Miss Supranational Australia, has been a big win for the brand locally and internationally. Solaire director Adam Taylor said the company applied for “the coveted title of tanning sponsor” after being approached by the pageant organiser. “Solaire is very selective in sponsoring pageants, individuals and the like as we have very high moral and ethical standards surrounding our sponsorships,” he said. According to the pageant organiser, “the winner of Miss Supranational Australia represents the modern success driven entrepreneurial women with beauty, charisma, personality and a desire to use her attributes for social influence”. Under the pageant’s sponsorship agreement, Solaire supplied “products and tans as desired” to all the contestants in the 2017 competition and will supply competition winner Alecia McCallum with Solaire spray tans “throughout her reign as Miss Supranational Australia and for as long as she would like to continue to use the product”. In December Miss Supranational Australia Alecia McCallum competed in the international final in Poland where 24-year old model Jenny Kim from South Korea won the title.

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

NEWS OZ RESEARCHERS NEED YOUR HELP

CND REINVENTS VINYLUX

Less than five years after launching its long wearing nail polish, CND has “reinvented” its Vinylux Weekly Polish with the introduction of a caring complex that pampers clients and an ergonomic brush that streamlines the application process. Danelle Dent, the national sales manager at Pacific Nail & Beauty (the local distributor of CND), said the company reinvented the brand as “consumers crave beauty products with a multitude of benefits”. “The most trusted brand by nail professionals has reformulated Vinylux to be the first-ever professional long-wear polish on the market to include a caring complex (Keratin, Jojoba Oil and Vitamin E) and a new Italian-designed, ergonomic brush that allows for smooth and easy application to enhance service time.” Dent said the new formula offers a long wear look that has the beautiful finish of a gel polish with the quick and easy removal of a traditional polish. It enables salon staff to give “clients the on-trend colour variety they’re craving, while working with a caring product to leave a beautiful, long-lasting finish”.

The Sales Catalyst, a sales training company specialising in the hair, beauty and body industries, needs your help find out what makes the Australian beauty market ‘tick’ – and in return is offering you the chance to win an Apple watch and find out exactly how your business compares to your competitors. Sales Catalyst founder Neil Osborne says the company has commissioned Taverner Research to undertake independent research into the Australian Aesthetics Market to help clinic and practice owners make “better decisions”. According to Neil, a recent report by Mordor Intelligence estimates that the Australian Aesthetic medical device market, valued at $3.81 billion in 2016, is likely to grow at around 11.61 percent per annum in the next five years, but “despite the booming market stats, there’s a yawning gap of real business information available to clinic and practice owners, to help them make better decisions for growth”. “Business owners need answers,” he says. “Given there’s a huge potential market for non-invasive procedures – both men and women, aged 15-65 years – something needed to be done.” He says Taverner Research is specifically designed to gather, consolidate and share market information on where aesthetic businesses fit within the market, and the exact dynamics that are influencing business growth. The research will focus on three key areas: 1. Demographics of the aesthetic industry: location, size, turnover 2. Aesthetic treatment trends: what’s growing, what’s declining, service pricing 3. Marketing and advertising influences: social media, client attraction and client conversion rates

Neil believes it’s crucial that the ground-breaking research be collected and consolidated by a third-party expert, to ensure the autonomy of the information. “With the global laser aesthetics market projected to grow at a compound growth rate of nearly 8 percent over 2017-2021, it’s vital for business owners to have accurate, real-time information on the Australian marketplace. “This research study gives business owners the opportunity to participate and contribute their data, so that everyone benefits from the knowledge.” The research results will provide aggregated details on business turnover, trends, client conversion rates, pricing and the success of social media to drive business growth. To take part in the study, which begins on February 1, visit www. thesalescatalyst.com.au/research and add yourself to the wait-list for invitations and early advice of the results. In addition, by contributing to the study, you will be in the running to win one of five Apple watches (Series 3) – and you’ll find out exactly how your business compares to the market and contributes to its growth.

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NEWS

DERMALUX WINS ‘ENERGY TREATMENT OF THE YEAR’ AWARD - AGAIN Dermalux won the ‘Energy Treatment of the Year’ award at the 2017 Aesthetics Awards in London. It is the LED treatment’s fifth consecutive win at the Awards – it won ‘Best New Treatment’ in 2013 and ‘Treatment of the Year’ in 2014, 2015 and 2016. Accepting the award at a gala presentation night, Dermalux founders Louise Taylor and Huw Anthony said they were proud of their hard work in making Dermalux LED Phototherapy “worthy of winning these prestigious awards”. The brand beat other “commendable finalists, including Endymed, ULTRAcel, Dermapen, Accent Prime and CoolSculpting” after being selected by a mix of votes from Aesthetics readers and the award’s official judging panel. “The continued popularity of Dermalux LED Phototherapy as a result-driven, noninvasive treatment choice is primarily due to the clinical efficacy, versatility, safety profile and unrivalled profitability that our systems provide,” said Taylor. Launched in Australia in late 2015 by Professional Beauty Solutions, the Dermalux Tri-Wave system combines proven wavelengths of light with the latest generation LED technology to deliver clinically safe and effective results for a wide range of skin conditions without discomfort or downtime. “After just one treatment, Dermalux instantly energises skin cells to revitalise a dull and tired complexion,” said Professional Beauty Solutions managing director Matt Williams. “A course of treatments offers longlasting results, stimulating the skin’s natural rejuvenation and repair processes to promote healthy looking skin, accelerate cell renewal and resolve a range of skin concerns,” he said.

ROXY JOINS SKINNY TAN

Just one month after being banned for making misleading claims in its UK advertising, Skinny Tan appointed PR queen and media personality Roxy Jacenko as its brand ambassador in Australia. Skinny Tan founder Louise Ferguson said the company, which “is fast displacing long-established tanning brands and growing at an incredibly rapid rate”, looks forward to working with Jacenko. Speaking after the announcement of her ambassadorship, Jacenko told Professional Beauty that spray tans have been a “weekly ritual” for her since her mid-twenties. “However with the juggle of motherhood and work, finding the time for a professional spray tan became a luxury,” she said. “I wanted a tanning product that gave me flawless results at home that could be applied with a minimum fuss when my day was done at 11 or 12 at night. The PR guru is now so confident in the self-tan brand’s effectiveness that she says she would happily use the tan (rather than having a professional salon tan) before a big media event “The attached shoot (see photo) was three applications across three days ahead of the shoot,” she said. In her new role Jacenko will be working with Skinny Tan to create a One-Hour express tan which will roll out nationally as ‘ROXY Tan’ in the second quarter of next year. Jacenko says the new self-tanner will be “perfect for women on the go” who, like her, “want to look their best but priorities like work and family mean that beauty maintenance needs to be quick and effective”. Launched by Ferguson and Kate Cotton five years ago and bought by Innovaderma in 2015, SkinnyTan is now sold all over Australia and the UK, and is planning to expand into the US.

STOCKHOLM OR BUST…

CIDESCO, the World Standard for Beauty and Spa Therapy, will be holding its 66th World Congress and Exhibition in Stockholm this year. Announcing the location for the “prestigious event which brings together beauty and spa professionals from around the world”, CIDESCO International president Anna-Cari Gund said she was delighted that the Congress will be held in her home city. She said the conference, to be held from September 6 to 9, will also be an important occasion for the CIDISCO’s “Nordic neighbours and partners”. “We hope to have a fantastic turnout as we discuss advancement of standards in the industry along with immersing our delegates in the beauty and wellbeing which our countries are known for,” she said. The CIDESCO World Congress aims “to create an open, non-biased platform for beauty, spa and wellness professionals to educate one another and develop the industry as a whole”. With the theme of ‘Beauty of the Northern Lights’, next year’s Congress “will explore the Nordic spa, beauty and wellness industry and its influence on the rest of the world.”

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

COVER STORY

The age of service innovation through

PERSONALISATION Dermalogica – professional grade skincare by The International Dermal Institute

JANE WURWAND is an innovative business visionary who opens doors for global women’s economic empowerment. She is the co-founder and chief visionary of Dermalogica and The International Dermal Institute, which are recognised as gamechanging brands within the professional skincare industry. Dermalogica products are the number one choice of more than 100,000 professional skin therapists in more than 100 countries worldwide. After three decades of work in the skincare industry where the vast majority of ownership and work-force is female, Wurwand established Financial Independence Through Entrepreneurship (FITE) to help support women entrepreneurs around the world. A social impact initiative that creates pathways

Karla McDiarmid (Owner Macquarie MediSpa) and staff member with Jane Wurwand in LA

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to entrepreneurship by providing access to small loans, business resources, education and leadership training, FITE has assisted more than 95,000 women in gaining financial independence. In 2016, President Obama appointed Wurwand a Presidential Ambassador for Global Entrepreneurship, one of a prestigious group of America’s top entrepreneurs who work with the federal government to help develop the next generation of entrepreneurs both at home and abroad. She has also served as a special advisor to the United Nations Foundation Global Entrepreneurs Council (GEC), supporting their work to advance entrepreneurship among women and girls. “At Dermalogica, we talk about the three pillars that make up the brand DNA. Firstly, education which is our foundation, we’re an education company with a great product. Secondly, personalisation – meaning that we see every skin therapist as an individual and every skin therapist, who is part of Dermalogica, sees their client as an individual. We create bespoke regimens for every client. The third pillar is human touch, this is what makes our industry so insanely great! Because we have the privilege of touching people, not just with our hands, but with our voice, our kindness, and our intention. Human touch is core to everything we do at Dermalogica. We are constantly thinking about our three pillars – education, personalisation and human touch, that’s Dermalogica.” Jane Wurwand Dermalogica welcomes two new and innovative treatments to its service line-up with ProServices. These treatments use cutting-edge technology, paired with Dermalogica’s powerful IonActiveTM formulas, and innovative professional product range to give instant and unparalleled results.

COVER STORY

ProSkin treatment services encompass professionally handcrafted treatments, allowing the Professional Skin Therapist to personalise a tailored experience for their customer’s needs – a treatment built around their unique lifestyle, schedules and skin concerns. It’s a new and unique multi-layered, modular approach to a skin treatment experience. This bespoke modular treatment uniquely crafted by the professional skin therapist ensures that this treatment is unique every time. “We build loyalty through services.” – Jane Wurwand The ProSkin 30 treatment targets a client’s top skin concern in a time efficient 30 minutes with the use of advanced machinery. This treatment range consists of four consumer options – repair, glow, clear or let the expert decide. ProSkin 30 is best for someone who would love and benefit from a monthly skin treatment, but either time or budget restrictions make it difficult, or for a client needing a skin boost in between their regular treatments. The ProSkin 60 treatment is ideal for clients looking for the utmost bespoke treatment experience with high-tech, high-touch, results driven formulations. This service targets multiple skin concerns and customer wellness in 60 minutes and is different every time. The ProSkin 60 will address all skin care needs and incorporate enhanced treatment technology, as well as relaxation and maximum personalisation. This really is the ultimate sensorial journey to any clients’ healthiest-looking skin. Traditionally, spas, salons and skin treatment centres provide clients with a menu of predetermined treatments and ask their clients to select what they think is best. However this experience can leave some clients feeling unsure (‘did I select the right treatment?’) and unfulfilled (‘that wasn’t what i was expecting’). Whether you have busy, shop-and-go clients or clients who are looking for a longer experience, Dermalogica’s ProSkin treatments allow clients to design a fully personalised experience – a customised treatment built around clients’ unique lifestyles, schedules and skin concerns. Sitting alongside these new treatment offerings are the cult services FaceMapping® and FaceFit®.

Face Mapping® This revolutionary one-on-one skin reading by a Dermalogica skin therapist that takes the guesswork out of skin care.

FaceFit® When skin needs a quick, results-driven pick me up, this 10-minute seasonal treatment is the fastest solution. Done right on the retail floor, it features Dermalogica’s newest products and technology to improve efficacy. Karla McDiarmid from Macquarie Medi Spa has been a Dermalogica advocate and stockist for over 12 years and has been in the industry for over 20 years. She runs two hugely successful Medi Spas in the NSW regional towns of Orange and Bathurst, and employs more than 18 therapists. Four of her therapists are Dermalogica Experts (a three-tier programme that rewards hard work and knowledge by recognising a therapist’s professional skills) with another two employees not far off. Karla credits her business success to the ongoing training she provides to her team and the high-tech equipment that she incorporates within her skin treatments, including BT Micro, BT Sonic, LED and Hydra facial treatments. She regularly markets her treatments through several channels including social media, email marketing, events and ongoing in-store activity and promotions. Macquarie MediSpa Bathurst

When asked where she felt the industry was heading and how the ProSkin 30 and 60 treatments benefited her business, she responded: “I began in the industry over twenty years ago and have seen a huge shift over that time, the introduction of advanced technology has meant greater product innovations being released, more research and development has led to quality machinery being manufactured and paired with services for greater results. Social media has also played a huge part in the way we market to our clients, as a result, our clients have become so much savvier when it comes to the beauty industry. ProServices has been so well received by our clientele, they love that they get to be a part of the treatment from the moment they walk through the door, they design their treatment with an expert therapist to customise what they want to get out of the treatment, what works for their lifestyle and skin goals. We can deliver results and have a happy customer at the end, which builds customer loyalty”. Karla recently won a global sales incentive and competed against Dermalogica accounts worldwide to take out the winning prize - a trip to LA! (the birthplace of Dermalogica), where she visited the Dermalogica on Montana flagship store and had dinner with founder Jane Wurwand. n Call 1800 659 118 for your sales enquiry pack or visit www.dermalogica.com.au

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

SKINCARE | NEW

Baré Alchemy Protect Serum for Normal Skin The Icon Depot 0431 681 181

Dermaenergy Shed The Dead Exfoliant Dermaenergy 1300 85 44 83

Arbré Bio Rebalancing Foaming Facial Cleanser Arbré Beauty Programs 02 4964 3999

Dermaviduals Anti Wrinkle Serum Derma Aesthetics 02 9960 1300 Doctor Babor Collagen Booster Cream Rich Babor 1800 139 139 Endota New Age Peptide8 Hyaluronic Serum Endota Spa 03 5971 8700

Pelactiv Retinol A Serum + Snap 8 Pelactiv 1800 655 745 Dermalogica Calm Water Gel (available from Feb 12) Dermalogica 1800 659 118

PCA Skin Detoxifying Mask Advanced Skin Technology 1800 648 851

Joi Pure Orange Blossom Toner Mist Joi Pure 08 9286 3891

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Payot Techni Liss Cica Expert Payot 1300 367 969

Bio-Therapeutic HD Face Masque The Global Beauty Group 03 8555 2246

SKINCARE | NEW

Lumity Anti-Ageing Skin Nutrients Facial Oil Lumity bridget@lumitylife.com

EmerginC Aromatics Brightening Booster Spray Inskin Cosmedics 02 9712 8188

Image Skincare - Iluma Intense Brightening Exfoliating Powder Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387 Usana Celavive Hydrating Eye Essence Usana Australia 02 9842 4500 Pure Fiji Coconut Lime Blossom Exotic Oil Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387

Skin Juice Redness Relief Kit Skin Juice 02 4960 8980

Nama of Fiji Hydrating Day Cream Nama of Fiji 1300 884 852

Cosmedix Shineless Oil Free Moisturiser Advanced Skin Technology 1800 648 85

Murad Environmental Shield Rapid Age Spot Correcting Serum Murad 1800 687 237

Ella Baché Eternal + Sculpting Serum Ella Baché 1800 789 234

Ultraderm VitA AOX Vitamin A Peel Ultraderm 1300 660 297

Fillerina Lip Plump Pen Architects of Skin 1300 068 357

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

SKINCARE

PLUMP IT UP With its incredible ability to bind water, hyaluronic acid is imperative when refilling the skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s moisture reservoirs and to help fight ageing skin with its plumping, hydrating and brightening properties.

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SKINCARE

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LEFT Dermaenergy A Mean Clean – Dermaenergy 1300 85 44 83 Aspect Gentle Clean Facial Cleanser - Advanced Skin Technology 1800 648 851 Clarins Gentle Foaming Cleanser – Clarins 02 9663 4277 Babor Cleansing Foam - Babor 1800 139 139 Dermalogica Special Cleansing Gel – Dermalogica 1800 659 118 Dermaviduals Your Bespoke Cleanser – Dermaviduals 1300 420 223 Dermosthetique Hydro-Actif Mousse Nettoyante - La Biosthétique 1300 554 069 DMK Deep Pore Cleanser – DMK 1300 00 SKIN DNA Renewal Foaming Gel Cleanser - Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011 Ella Baché Radiance Foaming Cleanser - Ella Baché 1800 789 234 Endota Spa Organics Pore Purifying Cleansing Gel - Endota Spa 03 5971 8700 Environ B Active Cleanser – Environ 1300 888 708 ESK Hydroxy Cleanser - ESK Care 1300 884 875

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HABA

HABA – the helping hand that understands Being a salon owner in the current climate is difficult, no matter which side of the hair or beauty fence you are sitting on, says Vanessa Weaver. OUR INDUSTRY IS being increasingly deregulated and undervalued, forcing many salons to shut up shop and move on. Increasing expectations on business owners and removal of responsibilities from staff, as well as new wage requirements, salon insurance and demanding clients can make you feel like you are on your own in this, right? Wrong. That’s where HABA comes in Hair & Beauty Australia (HABA) works alongside thousands of hair and beauty salon owners across Australia to provide the most up to date advice and support on the running of their business. Instead of Googling answers, which can often yield more confusion than help, HABA offers in-house, person-to-person advice to their members, tailored to their business and their experiences. We support salon owners in the running of their business and the protection of their business without judgement and we will break down the technical jargon to provide easy to understand advice and active actions for you to take, no matter what your situation might be. The hair and beauty industry is a dynamic and evolving industry – and subsequently, so is our award. For salon owners, it can be very easy to take your eye off the award for a minute and get yourself into hot water with industrial relations and regulations. HABA is unique as an organisation by offering a team of qualified, in-house industrial relations and human resource advisers to guide salons through best business practice when managing and employing staff, and ensure that our members are acting in way that will not leave them open to litigation and claims. With HABA, you will always speak to the same advisors, who get to know you and your business, helping you to best create a wholistic solution to your problem. Salons can call HABA as many times as they wish. HABA membership is not phone call limited, your business is HABA’s business. HABA is the only federally registered Industrial Association, meaning that we represent salon owners all across Australia. Unlike other organisations, who may be specialists specifically in law and policy in NSW or specifically for Hairdressers, HABA acts on behalf of, is an expert

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in and represents salons from across the entirety of the Hair and Beauty Industry in Australia. HABA is also the only association registered with Fair Work Australia, representing the Hair and Beauty Industry, and salon owners in particular, on issues of minimum working conditions, regulating industrial action and resolving workplace disputes. By having the HABA team on your side, that are uniquely linked to the Fair Work Commission (FWC), you can be rest assured that your rights, opinions and best interests are being represented at the highest levels within Australia. No matter how small or seemingly insignificant, HABA regularly lobby government at a local, state and federal level as required to promote the Hair and Beauty Industry, ensure that salon owners best interests are represented and that our industries voices are heard when policies and decisions are being made. Thankfully, HABA are aided in this by the team from the Australian Industry Group (Ai Group), allowing us to provide salon owners with all the assistance they need in all aspects of workplace law, award changes and policy as we reach to meet the growing need in our sector as policy continues to be changed on a sector-by-sector basis. For instance, on 7 September, HABA, along with Ai Group were successful in getting the FWC to reject the SDA’s claim for paid leave to donate blood four times a year. We opposed the claim through an extensive 90-page submission, arguing businesses should not be required to pay for employees to participate in community activities, regardless of how worthwhile such activities might be regarded. It is a great result for Salon Owners across Australia and would not have been possible without the support of our members and testimonials backing the opposition that was put forward by HABA and Ai Group. Additionally, HABA is going to be overseeing a rewrite of the Hair and Beauty Award 2010 in plain English – making it easier for salon owners and salon staff to understand, leading to less litigation and claims for salon owners. What HABA achieves in the FWC is a win for all salon owners, whether they are members or not. HABA provides our members with an extensive resource library, offering templates and outlines for all the documents a salon needs - policy and procedures manuals, wage rate sheets, factsheets for annual leave calculations and letters required for disputes and claims. Additionally, HABA provide an outstanding Payroll service, which ensures that your payroll is up to date, ensuring accurate employee payments and fulfilling all your payroll and compliance obligations, no mess, no fuss and no risk for salon owners. HABA membership is open to all salon owners and franchisees within Australia and now includes home based and mobile operations. No matter the size of your salon, or the number of salons and staff you have, every salon owner in Australia is welcome to join HABA. Join the industry that is working specifically for you, that supports you and has your best interests at heart. Sign up to HABA today and get the right team on your side! n For more information call 02 9221 9911, visit www.askhaba.com. au or email info@askahaba.com.au.

EXPO

Next Level Cosmoprof Asia kicking goals for the future of beauty

EXPO

COSMOPROF ASIA CONTINUES to get bigger and better, as was seen when it attracted record-breaking numbers to its ‘One Fair, Two Venues’ format in Hong Kong. Cosmopack Asia, held at the AsiaWorld-Expo, put the spotlight on the supply chain with raw materials and ingredients, manufacturing, machinery, primary and secondary packaging exhibitors, while Cosmoprof Asia, held in the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, showcased the future of beauty with buyers, distributors, suppliers and retailers from all over the world gathered under one roof. Discover Trends, dedicated to the latest trends in beauty, focused primarily on home beauty devices, baby care and halal cosmetics. Sustainability and organic beauty were key areas of interest in answering the growing trend for natural products in the AsiaPacific market. More than 83,000 beauty professionals from 135 countries and regions visited the two fair venues, where they had the chance to visit 2,877 exhibiting companies 54 countries and regions. At HKCEC, a jury made up of opinion leaders and influencers honoured the most innovative product proposals. The winners of Cosmoprof Awards - Beauty Circle, organised in collaboration with Beautystreams and Centdegrés, included Wunder 2 for the best Make-up Product, Plabio for the category Skin Care Product, Manucurist for the best Nail Product, Studio Ma for the category Hair Product and Gellé Frères France for Natural & Organic. The Best Beauty Brand Online Award was awarded to Gellé Frères France.

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EXPO

HONKERS BONKERS Aussies a huge hit at international beauty expo

IT WAS CLEAR Australian exhibitors were a huge hit at Cosmoprof Asia with Australian-made products highly coveted and respected in the overseas market. The new section dedicated to Natural & Organic was the area where some of our fave Aussie beauty brands were housed including skincare brands Asap, ESK Care, and Inskin Cosmedics’ brands Ginger & Me and O Cosmedics, as well as dietary supplements manufacturers Regul8 and Vida Glow. Australia registered the second highest double-digit growth in terms of country visits with 22 percent, trailing leading Japan at 24 percent, showing Australia’s beauty industry is still booming and that as a nation we are keen to cash in on the opportunities of doing business in Asia. Debbie Dickson, head of education, research and development at DMK Australia and New Zealand and creator of dietary supplement Regul8 said the exhibition was a great way to forge and build strong relationships with companies from around globe. “We’ve had a lot of interest in Regul8 Digestive Tune Up and Relax, our stressbusting sleep formula,” she said. “We are following up interest from the UK and Hong Kong and we

still have more European countries liaise with.” Maria EnnaCocciolone, Inskin Cosmedics CEO and founder, said following the expo both O Cosmedics and Ginger& Me “are in negotiations with a number of different countries and opportunities”. “However the key chellenge is always the one of being able to qualify leads and potential and honest partners,” she said. Korea was the country of honour at the expo and the K-Beauty trend seems set to continue to grow in popularity in Australia. Other trends and topics showcased included the effects of the digital revolution, the development of luxury cosmetics and the impact of millennial consumers on the beauty industry. n Save the date: Cosmoprof Worldwide will take place from Thursday, March 15 until Monday, March 19 in Bologna. Cosmoprof Asia 2018 will take place from November 13 to 15 at AWE and from November 14 to 16 at the HKCEC. Find out more at www.cosmoprof.com.

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

SKINCARE

The big

CLEAN-UP

Cleansing is one of the most important steps in any skincare routine, but because there are so many different options, many people end up using the wrong type of cleanser, says Dr Leslie Baumann. THE INCORRECT CLEANSER can lead to a variety of adverse skin conditions, including excessive dryness, flaking, acne, and flare-ups of chronic skin conditions like eczema and rosacea. Keep these tips in mind when recommending cleansing products to clients to help maximize their outcomes and maintain clear, healthylookingÂ skin.

Dry skin type cleansing The ideal cleansing routine for dry skin types will be very gentle so as to not cause even more flaking and barrier damage, while also helping to moisturise and lightly hydrate the skin. Thus, dry

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skin types will do best with a creamy, or oil-based, cleanser. These products deposit lipid ingredients like essential fatty acids and cholesterol to moisturise and improve the skin barrier. On the other hand, foaming cleansers contain surfactants (detergents) like sodium lauryl sulfate that remove beneficial lipids from the skin, impairing the skin barrier. This can be disastrous for skin that is already dry and flaky. Dry types should choose creamy cleansers and avoid foaming ones. Another important cleansing tip for dry skin is to be very careful not to over-exfoliate. Abrasive cleansing scrubs and bath loofahs are typically too harsh for dry skin types. Hydroxy acids have humectant moisturising properties and are a better choice to exfoliate dry skin.

Oily skin type cleansing Unlike dry types, oily skin can benefit from a cleanser that strips away excess

SKINCARE

oil from the skin’s surface. Therefore, foaming cleansers are a good choice for oily types. Oily skin types often have large pores clogged with dead skin cells and debris. Salicylic acid (SA) is lipophilic so it can penetrate through oil and clean out pores. Using foaming cleansers to remove excess oil also helps topical products, applied after cleansing, penetrate more effectively. Various types of detergents have different levels of penetration-enhancing activities.

Acne skin type cleansing Recommending the right cleanser for acne-prone skin can be tricky. You need to take into account if the client has oily or dry skin. Dry types with acne cannot tolerate the drying acne medications and often need two different cleansers. Creamy cleansers should be used once a day. They usually work well to remove makeup so I recommend the creamy cleanser be used at night. For the morning cleanser, hydroxyl acids such as glycolic acid, are a good approach to managing dry acne-prone skin because glycolic acid has a relatively low pH. The bacteria that causes acne (known as P. acnes) does not like an acidic pH and is less likely to grow on skin with a lower pH. Hydroxy acids help prevent clogged pores and exfoliate dead skin cells which helps prevent acne comedones. Glycolic acid also serves as a humectant ingredient. Humectants bind water to the surface of the skin to counteract dryness. Avoid using foaming cleansers on dry, acne prone skin.

THE INCORRECT CLEANSER CAN LEAD TO A VARIETY OF ADVERSE SKIN CONDITIONS, INCLUDING EXCESSIVE DRYNESS, FLAKING, ACNE, AND FLAREUPS OF CHRONIC SKIN CONDITIONS LIKE ECZEMA AND ROSACEA. Oily skin types are easier to treat when they have acne because they can better tolerate the drying acne medications. I recommend a salicylic acid cleanser in the am to unclog pores. In addition to clearing pores, SA has anti-inflammatory properties that help prevent the formation the of papules and pustules that are characteristic of acne. In the PM regimen, I recommend a foaming cleaner that will help remove dirt, makeup and debris that can clog pores and worsen acne. I do not use a SA cleanser twice a day because, combined with acne medications such as a retinoid and benzoyl peroxide, it can be too drying.

Rosacea skin type cleansing Rosacea is defined as recurrent facial redness and flushing that can occur with heat, hormones, emotion and spicy foods. Rosacea patients often describe stinging and redness of the skin after cleansing - even if they only use water. Most rosacea patients have dry skin and can skip their morning cleanse to help reduce skin irritation and flushing. In the evening, a soothing non-foaming cleanser with anti-inflammatory ingredients is the best choice to remove makeup, sunscreen, and any built-up dirt or bacteria from the skin’s surface. Oily skin types who have rosacea need to cleanse twice a day to remove excess oil. A foaming cleanser that contains anti-inflammatory ingredients such as green tea, feverfew, licorice extract, aloe, niacinamide, green tea and SA are a good choice. When selecting a cleansing product and method, all rosacea patients should avoid mechanical exfoliation, including cleansing scrubs, chemical exfoliants, and abrasive loofahs or cloths. Combine the right cleansing routine with

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the most up-to-date prescription treatments for rosacea to help minimise symptom flare-ups.

Eczema skin type cleansing Eczema is a severe form of dry skin that exhibits flaking, itching, and a propensity for infection. Choose the same non-foaming cleansers as I recommend for dry types. If you suffer from frequent skin infections, hypochlorite and silver are beneficial ingredients found in cleansers to help decrease skin bacteria and prevent infections. Cleansing with eyelash extensions Many people ask their skincare professionals how to best cleanse their skin when they have eyelash extensions. The most important tip is to steer clear of any makeup removers or facial cleansers that contain an oil or cream base. The lipids in oils and creams can loosen the adhesive that holds the lash extensions in place. Alpha hydroxy acids and SA should also be avoided if you have eyelash extensions.

In summary Knowing which cleansing product to use based on skin type makes all the difference when it comes to achieving and maintaining healthy skin. Help your patients choose the most appropriate cleanser by using my Baumann Skin Type® tips. n Dr Leslie Baumann is an internationally renowned board-certified dermatologist, a New York Times best-selling author, and media personality. She is the CEO of Baumann Cosmetic& Research Institute. Contact drb@lesliebaumannd.com

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SALON PROFILE

Polished BEAUTY Adelaide salon Polished Beauty may be best known for its manicures but, as Professional Beauty discovers, it also has a thriving tanning business.

SINCE SHE WAS a 19-year-old nail technician, Jessica Kidner dreamed of owning her own salon. After working for other people and studying for her certificate in beauty therapy, in 2009 Kidner’s dream came true—she was able to buy a salon and transform it into a thriving business, Polished Beauty. Kidner has worked hard to make her dream a success, eventually moving away from working in the salon on a daily basis in order to spend more time developing the business. Polished Beauty currently has three fulltime staff members and one casual, and Kidner takes pride in supplying jobs to the community. “The best move I ever made was starting to share my skills with my staff. This enabled me to step back and grow the business from the sidelines,” she says. Located in Adelaide’s Hazelwood Park, Polished Beauty is fitted out in whites, greys, and natural stone and wood, which gives the space a chic, laid-back feel. “It is a salon for the busy woman who deserves 45-minutes out of her day every few weeks to pamper and reinvigorate herself.” While many clients come for the nail treatments (and the salon does produce some magical manis) Polished Beauty offers a range of other services including waxing, facials, massage and tanning, the latter of which Kidner says is a great addition to any salon business as it is quick to perform and offers a good return on investment. Polished Beauty’s tanning clientele are mainly women who want a natural-looking finish with little downtime. This means the salon’s signature two-hour full-body tan, which is completed in a 15 minute appointment, is a favourite. Kidner uses Techno Tan as she says clients love the blue-based tan and she loves the customer service the company offers. As with the rest of the salon’s services, Kidner says she believes tanning clients return because of the products used and the attention of the therapists before and after the service.

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“We offer homecare flyers after the tan and have plenty of information on our website detailing before and aftercare tips to help achieve the perfect tan. We talk through any issues our clients may have before treatment over the phone. Good customer service is always the key.” Polished Beauty also retails products for tanning clients who want to get the best results from their treatment. “The most important thing for therapists to remember is that clients need the products a salon stocks, and it’s our job to educate the client on how to use them and why they are needed. The products should really sell themselves after that.” Tanning education is taken seriously, with new staff taken through the process by Kidner or her salon manager, and online learning is also on offer for staff to gain more knowledge. Although Kidner is passionate about providing education, she says therapists need to take responsibility for their learning. “Walking into a salon and not having the confidence to perform a service is a real killer for any potential employee,” she says. “It takes a lot of time and money to train staff members and they need to be able to take what they know and improve very quickly.” As a successful salon owner, Kidner is passionate about sharing what she’s learnt with others in the industry. She says growing her clientele and staying in contact with them—through email and SMS—is the first thing she would recommend to someone who wants to grow their business. “Our success has been built on regular clients—we aren’t in a shopping centre so don’t get a lot of walk ins,” she says. “The keys to being successful are: get your systems down; offer a great service; pick a great brand and stick with it; don’t take shortcuts; always explain how your product and processes work; make people feel safe and welcome in your environment; and over deliver on expectations.” n www.polishedbeauty.com.au

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TANNING | NEW

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MediterraneanTan 2 Hour Inductafuze RBS Red Handheld Spray Solution Mediterranean Tan, Wax & Beauty 1300 826 929 Sunescape Hydrating Body Butter Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387

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DAY 1

WANT TO GROW

YOUR AESTHETIC BUSINESS

The PRACTICE

DAY 2

PROFITABLY?

3 DAYS to PRACTICE GROWTH COURSE

PRODUCTIVITY

DAY 3 PROFITS

3-Day Program:

April 3rd, May 1st & June 5th 2018, Macquarie University, Sydney Hear from Industry Thought Leaders:

Attend this practical 3-day outcome-based course to: • Learn where the Aesthetic Market is heading in 2018

• Understand how leading industry personalities have grown their practice Neil Osborne Founder, Master Trainer & Sales Growth Expert The SALES CATALYST

Jonathan Carroll Founder & Online Digital Marketing Expert Engage Online Marketing

• Grow your practice with the latest social media and on-line strategies • Learn the steps to introduce a new service category, quickly and profitably • Discover the practical steps needed to successfully sell to the She-economy • Leave each day with a clear 30-day implementation plan, to use between workshops

Brought to you by:

Rebecca Miller Owner & Paramedical Skin Therapist La Bella MediSpa, Parkes, Orange and Kingston, ACT

Kelly George Owner & Registered Cosmetic Nurse Kelly George Aesthetics, Tamworth

Platinum Media Partner: Media Partners:

Learn how to build and leverage the productivity of your practice, to amplify its growth through social media, launch new treatment segments, attract new clients and both build and support a loyal base of customers, through your skilled and passionate team.

Find out more & book tickets NOW www.thesalescatalyst.com.au/workshops

TANNING

Master at

WORK TANNING FOR NATASHA Mikhaylova is much more than picking up a spray gun – it’s an art form. “Just like an artist chooses the right brush to paint with, as a professional you should chose the spray gun that performs the best airbrush application,” she said. The 38-year-old discovered spray tans 12 years ago and instantly became “obsessed” with it. “I don’t think I went a weekend without a spray tan since,” she said. “From there I went on to open my own tanning business, Airbrush Tanning Academy, which luckily grew very fast, and here we are today launching tanning products.” The products Natasha has launched, made from natural and organic ingredients, form the Ms.Lova range. Ms.Lova Professional Range and Pro Kit are available in three unique shades, while there are four products in the Home Tan range. Natasha says what inspired her to create her own range was “the concept of combining the benefits of luxury skincare with a natural golden tan to suit all skin tones”. “As a professional spray tan artist, I was always on the hunt for that next best tanning product and used to spend a lot of time dreaming up

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Tanning’s golden girl Natasha Mikhaylova catches up with Michelle Ruzzene to talk about her latest business venture.

new innovations and thinking of ways to do flawless, natural tans,” she said. “It inevitably inspired me to start my own, self-named luxury tanning line, Ms.Lova.” The products perfectly complement her Airbrush Tanning Academy, which offers spray tan training for those who would like to start a tanning business or any beauty salon looking to offer airbrush tanning to its customers. “We offer a mobile service where we come to you and give you practical training in all aspects of airbrush tanning,” she said. “Along with this, we also teach you what is involved with the business side, including marketing.” When she’s not dreaming up product launches or teaching others how to tan, Natasha is busy tanning Aussie stars including signer Delta Goodrem, retired Australian pole vaulter Tatiana Grigorieva and the contestants on A Farmer Wants a Wife. Natasha says she would encourage anyone to start up their own business, no matter how hard it may seem. “It can be intimidating to step out by yourself at the start, but in the long run the personal freedom and fulfillment is priceless,” she said. “Being in a situation where you are the person responsible for the failure or success of the business can be daunting, but if you are willing to put in the effort, the joys of success can be a lot more rewarding.” n Contact Ms Lova on 1300 402 562 or visit www.mslova.com

PROMOTION

Victoria’s industry-only event returns to Melbourne for the ultimate weekend of everything beauty o ps om

ackie Carol M

) Th inky Nicole (P

Social media and the beauty blogosphere are contributing to an increasing consumer demand for the latest beauty products and treatments. Stay ahead of these trends and meet your clients’ requests by attending Beauty Expo Melbourne, which unites the industry under one roof for a weekend of inspiring discoveries and worldclass education. Victoria’s boutique professional beauty event is set to motivate the industry from 24-25 March 2018 at the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre (MCEC).

MAC Cosmetics to exhibit for the first time at Beauty Expo Melbourne Beauty Expo Melbourne will welcome industry-favourite MAC Cosmetics which will be exhibiting for the first time in 2018! MAC’s esteemed PRO artists will share their skills in professional makeup artistry and showcase global editorial and runway looks. Global Senior Artist Carol Mackie will show you how the latest catwalk looks – from Lanvin to Westwood – can be adapted to your clients’ needs in her ‘Backstage Beauty Business’ class; while Senior Artist Nicole Thompson (AKA Pinkie) will take you on a journey through her world in ‘Inside the Makeup Industry’.

over the industry, with ABIA Educator of the Year finalist, Janice Trainer; techniques in eyelash extensions from industry veteran Selina De Stefano; mastering the Wing Shadow Eye with makeup artist extraordinaire Mia Connor; and how to do your best Brazilian wax treatment ever with LYCON (and learn exclusive tips and tricks in ‘Manzilian’ waxing). Education at Beauty Expo is more accessible than ever with a new Professional Skills Education Pass, which gives you access to all these sessions for just $219 (less than the price of two individual sessions). If you’re wanting to learn about techniques in dermal therapy, antiageing treatments or skills in better business, purchase a Dermal/AntiAgeing or Business education pass for the same price ($219 each) and attend sessions on topics like common skin conditions, training your team to sell, Instagram for businesses, and so much more.

Celebrate your industry Let your hair down and join us for bubbles and networking at the Beauty Expo Melbourne Welcome Party! Enjoy sweeping views over the city from 28 Skybar Lounge at the Crown Metropol on Saturday 24 March – tickets available now at www.beautyexpomelbourne.com.au Beauty Expo Melbourne is set to ignite the passion of beauty professionals – join us in celebrating your industry at the Victorian beauty event of the year!

The beauty brands you love No matter your interest – be it skincare, makeup, waxing, lashes or nails – Beauty Expo Melbourne unites the leading brands in the industry for you to explore. See and shop the latest innovations from MAC Cosmetics, Dermalogica, Eco Tan, emendee, Pevonia, Murad, LYCON Cosmetics, EyEnvy, France Medical, Uspa, Techno Tan, INGLOT Cosmetics, Crown Brush Australia, Diamond Nail Supplies and many more.

March 24th 25th

MELBOURNE CONVENTION & EXHIBITION CENTRE

Professional skills you need to know for 2018 The beauty industry is constantly changing, so keeping up-to-date with the latest trends is vital to maintaining a competitive edge for your business. Beauty Expo Melbourne’s education line-up for 2018 includes brow queen Jazz Pampling’s tips and tricks for mastering beautiful brow colour and creating the perfect men’s brow; ‘Shaping the Future of Microblading’, the cosmetic tattooing trend that’s taking

Beauty Expo Melbourne, Saturday 24 to Sunday 25 March 2018 at the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre (MCEC). Tickets on sale now! Check out this year’s inspiring show features and book at www.beautyexpomelbourne.com.au

Subscribe to our e-newsletter and follow us on Facebook and Instagram for all the latest event updates and special discounts! www.beautyexpomelbourne.com.au/subscribe

@BeautyExpoMelbourne

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SPOTLIGHT ON

Lycon

WHAT YOU SEE

Lycon’s Lydia Jordane has seen it all, and then some. Decades in the beauty industry have placed her at the top of the mountain, with views across a constantly changing landscape. IT IS DIFFICULT to comprehend how time flies and how I got to where I am! Waxing for me started in my final year of high school in 1968, when I first experimented with wax. My father was a cosmetic chemist in Europe; however he did not made hair removal wax, as hair removal from the body was not something women did in Europe in those days. When I migrated to Australia in 1964, I was only 14 - and rather hairy. I didn’t think anything of it, as it didn’t occur to me that women in Australia shaved, particularly as my school uniform included thick black stockings, so there was no hairiness to be seen. But, come spring, the uniform changed to short white socks, and one sunny day during swimming classes, I was exposed to a conversation about shaving. One of my new friends was indirectly trying to alert me to the Australian practice of women shaving their legs. It was rather embarrassing, given my obvious hairiness. Not long after, I secretly commandeered my father’s old-fashioned razor blade, and there it was: hair-free legs in a few minutes! However, this was followed by quick and prickly hair regrowth, which was very unpleasant. I preferred my long, silky-soft hairs, and couldn’t understand why women would want to have prickly legs. But there was no turning around; I didn’t want to go back to being hairy! Four years later, I was reading an article in an American magazine about waxing and decided to find out more about it. I was familiar with cosmetic ingredients, as I regularly translated information for my father’s business; this meant I also knew where to source them. My first waxmaking experiment was on the family kitchen stove, again in secret. (I was not allowed to remove body hair as it was a cultural taboo in the country I came from) I managed to make a blend and then I had to work out how to use it…I really had no idea! There was a salon in Brisbane that offered

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waxing, so I had my legs waxed there, to see how they did it. It was rather interesting; they applied the wax on the legs with the back of a soup-spoon. This one treatment encouraged me to progress with waxing my own legs at home, and I then spent the next 10 years perfecting my techniques. Eventually I became a beauty therapist, taught facials and electrolysis by my father, then further courses to upgrade my skills. I had no intention of selling the wax when I first made it in 1968, or even when I opened my own salon in 1978. There was only a handful of salons in Brisbane then, and when they heard about my salon and wax, they wanted to buy it. The word then spread to Sydney and Melbourne, and I started getting orders from far and wide around Australia. Due to the growth and development of the industry around that time, it was literally a business that propelled itself! I used to attend the various beauty association seminars in Sydney, eager to learn what I could from the lectures and trainings on offer. I met a lot of therapists and made great friends along the way. The next time I went to a conference, I took some wax to display on a trestle table provided by the hotel for anyone who wanted to showcasase their wares. These were the pioneering days of the beauty industry in Australia; it was a very exciting time and certainly a lot of fun. There were a couple of other people who were making wax then too, but I don’t know what happened to them as they disappeared. During those days, most women hadn’t heard anything about waxing. To build my business, I spoke at ladies’ groups in some of the local primary schools. I not only grew my own salon business, which kept me very busy for 15 years, but it also assisted the other salons that were springing up all over the place, using and loving Lycon wax. It was about 20 years later that other wax brands appeared on the Australian market, however I am very proud that it was me who was very

much involved and instrumental in educating the public about waxing since 1968. I gained a lot of beauty therapy experience when I worked for a salon in Brisbane for a year in 1977, before I opened my own salon. I did facials, eyelash and brow tinting, and lot of eyebrow, leg and underarm waxing. It was fantastic experience for me; I often reflect on and value the opportunity I was given. Once I opened my salon, it grew very quickly; I employed two staff and also taught beauty therapy to some. I found teaching to be a wonderful way to continue learning myself. When I teach, which I still do regularly, I learn how to explain things better and how to continually improve my technique to accommodate different skins and hair growth types. So really, I am a self-taught waxing specialist. Years ago, there was only bikini waxing, no G-string waxing or Brazilian, so that was my next challenge; I had to teach myself Brazilian and then work out how to best teach others. I have developed many individual LYCON Brazilian waxing techniques, all in conjunction with how to do the best waxing with LYCON waxes for men and women. There are so many things that need to be considered during intimate waxing, which I have put together to make sure the process is easy, gentle, and efficient. Much depends on the wax being used, and a lot also depends on how you use your hands, how you apply and remove the wax. It is a system, not just waxing. I am a strong believer that same old, same old, is not good enough. We all need to improve. Once we think we are the best and do not observe open ourselves to learning how we can do better, we are not keeping up with the industry, or giving to the industry the best of ourselves as therapists. There have been many changes over the years in the hair removal world, starting with the different types of wax. Lycon has been market leader in wax innovation and technique and love to see our competitors copy what we do, because that tells us we are doing well and offering new and wanted things to the industry. The advent of laser hair removal has made inroads and I am sure it has impacted the waxing industry, but for Lycon, the market is still growing well, year upon year, so laser has not affected my business as I expected. In relation to wax, Lycon is known for many world firsts of which we are very proud; things like the Lycojet waxes, LYCOdream Hybrid Hot Wax and more recently, our PINKINI Collection. Since Brazilians became a part of life, there has been need to offer ingrown hair treatments as some clients will have ingrown hairs no matter what. Products like our Ingrown-X-it range to treat and minimise the look and feel of ingrown hairs have become essential. We have already faced some challenges and I think there will be more in the coming years. I believe training is very important and I would like to see beauty college teachers more open to hands-on training so they can guide students more effectively. Correspondence, or internet learning, is good for the theory part of beauty, but it cannot be a substitute for hands-on learning for any beauty treatment, including waxing. Another challenge we’re facing is the rise of “do-it-yourself ” which sounds great, but in theory you’re only going to get the best results if you consult a trained professional. As therapists we’ve all seen plenty of DIYs gone wrong! People have wondered when I will retire as I am heading towards the end

of my sixth decade, but I am actually super-excited. In the last year we launched 15 new products and have added 12 new pack sizes to some of our products . Lycon is exported to more than 70 countries and our sales are constantly growing, so I am delighted we have set up a 7500m2 new factory, more than double where I have been at West End for the past 30 years (although I did expand at West End over that time). We have more new products in the pipeline and lots more machinery has been set up, so we can keep up with the growing demand for LYCON on a global scale. One thing that has astounded me over the years is that when I exhibited LYCON at tradeshows for many years in different parts of the world, it was not so easy to secure an agent. Since I stopped exhibiting LYCON here and there, it was word of mouth that did the trick and more interest came our way, well before social media. I love what I do, I love all the positive messages we receive from therapists and customers all over the world, who love and want to have Lycon and cannot find a substitute that compares. n For more information contact wax@lycon.com.au or visit www.lycon.com.au

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

WAXING

The where, when, and why, of

WAX

Waxes have come a long way since wax strips made their début in the 1960s. Hot and strip waxes now provide a faster more efficient application, as well as being more economical and providing greater client comfort, explains Michele Hetherington. HOT AND STRIP waxes are made very differently, and have been designed to be used in specific ways to ensure minimal damage is done to the skin, while removing all the hairs.

and against the direction of the hair growth, and as it starts to set it grips around the base of the hair shaft. As it continues to dry, it contracts and lifts away from the skin. When hot wax is removed, the hairs pull away with very little damage to the upper layers of skin.

Which wax, and why?

Advantages of hot wax

I mainly work with hot wax when waxing the face and intimate areas. I use strip wax for larger less sensitive areas such as arms, legs, men’s backs and the outer bikini. In Australia, the Beauty Services Training Package currently includes training methods for hot and strip wax on all areas of the body, though recommends the use of hot wax for sensitive areas. Performing a waxing treatment requires an understanding of the skin to provide the best results. For example; mature skin that is thin and/ or progressing through menopause is extremely delicate and sensitive. Waxing this type of skin requires the use of an oil prior to applying a hot wax to protect the fragile skin. I would also use a wax which has a lower melting point and of course check the temperature before applying.

• • • • •

HOT WAX Recommended for use on delicate /sensitive areas such as eyebrows, face and any intimate regions. It is applied to the skin, slightly warmer than strip wax, using a spatula. The wax is spread both with

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Sticks to hair not skin, making it less aggressive on removal Will remove all types of hair Allows for more precision when waxing Its workability makes it easier to support the skin when removing Can be applied on top of pre-wax oil used to soften skin whilst creating a protective barrier • Does not require a waxing strip for removal • Less painful on sensitive areas

Disadvantages • As hot wax is used at a higher working temperature, extra care must be taken to avoid overheating the skin during treatment • Application is not as thin or as fast as strip wax • Requires consistency in working temperature • Consistency in application techniques to effectively remove finer hair

STRIP WAX Recommended for use on larger areas of the body, such as legs, arms and men’s chests and backs. It is applied to the skin warm, and is spread in the direction of the hair growth. A wax strip is smoothed down onto the wax, bonding with the hair whilst remaining on the skin. When the strip is removed we also remove some of the stratum corneum, and significant moisture is stripped from the upper layers of the skin while the underlying layers are pulled and stretched.

WAXING

Advantages of strip wax • Lower working temperature means clients find it more comfortable on application • Application and removal is quicker than hot wax • Less wax is required, and therefore more economical • Working temperature is more consistent than hot wax • Quicker treatment as larger areas are covered with one spatula of wax and speed waxing techniques can be utilised

Disadvantages • Sticks to hair and skin, making it more aggressive on the skin when removed • If wax is applied to thick or too cold, it may result in bruising or grazing to the skin. • Can leave sticky residue if therapist is not proficient in removal techniques or if the wax is of low quality • Requires wax strip for removal

After-care advice After the use of either wax I always use an after-wax lotion as it has an immediate cooling effect, visibly reduces redness and leaves skin soft and protected. Choose a product suitable for all skin types and, most importantly, made with vegetable oils and not containing mineral oil, palm oil or parabens. No matter what the wax, I always give the same after-care advice:

• Moisturise every day with a high-water content product to hydrate the skin • Wait four days after waxing before exfoliating • Only exfoliate once a week as over-exfoliation causes an inflammatory response and will result in ingrown hairs and uneven hair growth • Avoid excessive exercise for the first 24 hours after waxing • Avoid hot showers, saunas and spas for the first 24-48 hours • Avoid sun for the first 48-72 hours as the skin is more sensitive • Avoid tight clothing for the first 24 hours Michele Hetherington is a senior beauty therapist and educator with more than 20 years industry experience. She has been working with Jax Wax Australia since 2003, and is currently National Training Manager. Michele is a member of the AABTH, CIDESCO and holds a Cert IV Training and Assessment, Diploma of Beauty Therapy, Cert IV Makeup and Cert IV Remedial Massage. Jax Wax Australia - 03 5943 2422 www.adamandeve.net.au

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PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

WAXING | NEW

Xanitalia Wax Pelables Vanilla Dateline Imports 02 9666 3611

Jax Wax Daintree Blackbean Strip Wax Jax Wax Australia 03 5943 2422 Lycon Mango and Guava Hand and Body Lotion Lycon 07 3004 6200

BeautyPro Non-Woven Waxing Strips Dateline Imports 02 9666 3611

Jax Wax Daintree Blackbean Beaded Hot Wax Jax Wax Australia 03 5943 2422

Lycon X-It-Mitt Lycon 07 3004 6200

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INDUSTRY INSIGHT

Waxing LYRICAL Jax Wax Australia national marketing and sales manager Rosie Hopgood and national training manager Michele Hetherington share their best advice for salon success. Aside from product, what is the greatest contribution a supplier can make to the success of a salon? Rosie Hopgood (RH): Selling a product into a salon for the first time is only part of the sale. It’s what we do after the sale when a relationship is formed. At Jax Wax Australia we understand the importance of building strong relationships to ensure the growth of our salon and distributor businesses. After sales support from a supplier is paramount to the success of a salon. At Jax Wax we offer our salons a wide range of options that support them to use and sell our products. CUSTOMER SERVICE Exceptional customer service means helping customers efficiently and in a friendly manner. CURRENT PROMOTIONAL MATERIAL We have a large selection of up-to-date imagery available for salons to use on their social media channels and websites as well as posters promoting that they use our products. STAFF TRAINING/IN SALON SUPPORT As part of our after sales service we offer our customers staff training and product support. ADVERTISING We invest in advertising in trade magazines and on social media. At Jax Wax we are very proud to promote that all our products are vegan friendly, not tested on animals, paraben free, polymer free and do not contain palm oil. SAMPLES To help salons select the best wax for them and ensure successful waxing treatments, we offer all our salons samples of our range.

How can salons encourage staff to attend training, both internal and external? Michele Hetherington (MH): Having owned my own salon, I think it’s a good idea to lead by example. A role model’s behaviour is emulated by others. Internal training after hours is a great opportunity for staff members to receive a treatment, share ideas and feel a part of the team. External training is an investment in your salon’s future. Industry currency (or further training)

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is essential to expand a career in the beauty industry and a great incentive for staff. Jax Wax Australia offers affordable workshops for all levels of industry experience and in a variety of areas. Our workshops are updated each year to cover current trends, new product lines and the latest techniques emerging in Australia and overseas.

How can salons increase their retail sales and compete with the growing online market? RH: With online purchases increasing every year, salons need to ensure their service is personal. I have four suggestions to tackle the online market: 1. Include a retail product with the treatment. 2. Introduce a loyalty program. 3. Tailor services to your individual client’s needs. 4. Stock salon only brands to reduce people buying products online.

What do you believe will be the greatest challenges facing the beauty industry in the coming decade and how can we tackle them? MH: I think the challenges facing the beauty industry are: • A shortage of highly-trained experienced therapists • Beauty training packages are delivered with less hands-on hours • Low award wages considering the responsibilities of a fully qualified beauty therapist • An increase in advanced skincare treatments such as micro needling, RF laser and IPL being conducted by inexperienced therapists To tackle these problems, I believe the standards of our industry need to reflect the modern day therapist and the treatments they conduct, including: • A system like that of the US where therapists need to maintain ‘currency’ in their chosen field by undergoing annual industry recognised training. • Training courses need to review the hands-on hours students complete before graduating from their course. Students need to be proficient in offering treatments and not just fulfil the required hours. • With an increase in invasive treatments, the government needs to introduce legislation to ensure stricter industry standards.

What are the essential components of salon professionalism? RH and MH: There are four P’s salons should consider in order to create a professional image. Professionalism – A salon uniform will give a good first impression. Personalisation – People like to feel special. Products – Quality products will ensure your clients enjoy their treatment and return. Presentation – What does a client see when they walk into your salon? The professional image of your salon is what gives you credibility—it’s not about what you do, it’s about the way you do it. n jaxwax.com.au

GEMINI

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NAILS

ORANGES and LEMONS Bring some citrus fun to nails with these eye-stopping colours.

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NAILS

ORANGE The Lip Lab in Here Comes The Sun - The Lip Lab 02 9331 4188 CND Creative Play Nail Lacquer in Orange You Curious - Pacific Nail and Beauty 1800 672 800 SLA Paris Colour Extreme Nail Polish in Amazing Neon Orange - Encore Beauty 02 9686 3488 Hawley Manicure in 316 - Hawley International 02 8667 1700 Faby Nail Laquer in Vitamins Juice - International Beauty Supplies 1800 358 999 Jessica Custom Nail Colour in Orange Zest - Jessica Cosmetics Australia 1300 470 648 Orly Lacquer in Orange Punch - Hawley International 02 8667 1700

YELLOW OPI Infinite Shine 2 in Exotic Birds Do Not Tweet - International Beauty Supplies 1800 358 999 Faby Nail Laquer in Hi, Honey - International Beauty Supplies 1800 358 999 Jessica Custom Nail Colour in Yellow - Jessica Cosmetics Australia 1300 470 648 CND Vinylux Weekly Polish in Banana Clips - Pacific Nail and Beauty 1800 672 800 Zoya Professional Lacquer in Darcy - SA Beauty Supplies 1300 855 644 Orly Lacquer In Lemonade - Hawley International 02 8667 1700 Hawley Manicure in 310 - Hawley International 02 8667 1700 Artistic Colour Revolution in Sunâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Out, Buns Out - Switch Funky 1800 700 510

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NAILS | NEW

OPI Infinite Shine 2 Gel Lacquer in Sun Sea and Sand in My Pants International Beauty Supplies 1800 358 999 Zoya Professional Lacquer in Cora SA Beauty Supplies 1300 855 644

OPI Infinite Shine 2 Gel Lacquer in Tagus in That Selfie International Beauty Supplies 1800 358 999

Orly Argan Oil Hand Crème and Cuticle Oil Hawley International 02 8667 1700

Qitica Almond Oatmeal Moisture Mask SA Beauty Supplies 1300 855 644

CND Vinylux Cake Pop Weekly Polish and Weekly Top Coat Paciﬁc Nail & Beauty 1800 672 800

Tropical Shine Mini Four-Way Buffer Block Display Dateline Imports 02 9666 3611

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Hard as Keep nails harder, tougher and stronger with these hero products.

NAILS

Zoya Naked Manicure Naked Base - SA Beauty Supplies 1300 855 644 Jessica Bend Don’t Break Nail Treatment - Jessica Cosmetics Australia 1300 470 648 Mavala Scientifique K+ - Cosimer 03 9645 1933 Orly Nail Defense - Hawley International 02 8667 1700 OPI Nail Envy - International Beauty Supplies 1800 358 999 Faby Nail Renew - International Beauty Supplies 1800 358 999 Famous Names IBX Repair – Switch Funky 1800 700 510 CND Rescue RX - Pacific Nail and Beauty 1800 672 800 La Biosthetique Brilliant Nail - La Biosthétique 1300 554 069 PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

NAILS

Your ten best

ACCESSORIES

A fashion accessory is a decorative item that supplements one’s outfit, complements a design, adds colour, class, and style, or creates a certain look, says Jan Arnold.

I’VE ALWAYS BELIEVED nails to be the ultimate fashion accessory, and I thought it would be fun to explore this on a deeper level. Nails are not ‘just another pretty face’ or a ‘fashion flash-in-the pan’…they can be a complex and dazzling addition to any style statement. It’s important to look beyond color when talking about nails as a true accessory. The length, shape, dimension and decoration added to color completes the picture.

Fashion silhouette Let’s start with nail length and shape, using the silhouette of fashion as our guide. Strong preferences in shoulders, jacket fit, and shoes demand the same in nails to bring balance to the look. When shoulders are square and bold, jackets cinched in and structured and shoes boldly square or stiletto, a stronger nail shape is absolutely called for. Here I’d go for lean, tapered medium-length square nails, harking back to the 80s – or push a skinny-girl stiletto in a medium length to scream femme fatale. Tragedy would be a tame oval or classic square, which would create a disconnect in the total look. Conversely, if the fashion is light and layered, with soft shoulders, shorter hem lengths and sporty kicks, a light active oval or subtle almond shape looks cool and modern.

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Masculine and feminine The other way to analyse length and shape is to use it to complete the dichotomy of a look, which means using nail length and shape to add an interesting contrast to the other fashion elements. For example, short boyhair looks great with long feminine nails, and long sexy hair looks totally chic with sharply tailored nails. Mixing masculine and feminine elements creates a perfect and interesting balance in the overall look.

The missing piece of the puzzle The other fun way to use nails is to find the one missing element that could make a great difference to the total look. I always love to have four components to my look, which includes masculine, feminine, classic, and punk. If one of these components is missing, the total look is incomplete. Find the combination of elements in every client’s personality and make sure they are always involved in their style choice…all the way to their fingertips! It could mean that your suggestions for nails are that one missing element that will add the finishing touch required. Here’s a great example: I have a friend who is a banker – she wears masculine suits, feminine blouses and classic heels – and when she wears soft pink nails it’s hard to take her seriously because she looks, well, too soft. When we pop black nails on her, she’s interesting and in charge.

Opposites attract Using contrasting color is a great way to add excitement and newness for every client’s look. Suggest dark when you need edge, and go light when you need to soften things up. I’d suggest a soft pink almond nail for a punky girl and dark rich gemstones on classic girls-next-door. Go rose gold with grey hair and platinum with golden blond. Try the opposite of the client’s natural inclination and you’ll see a client surprised and thrilled with the results.

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Nail ART This is another interesting, yet sometimes polarising, idea. Nail artistry today has become a must-have wearable choice. Try stamping on classic colors to edge them up. My favorite is fishnet – stamp fishnet over any color to make the color more provocative. Dust holographic powder over the tips of any base color and blast your client into delight like they’ve never experienced. Add a single tiny crystal in the moon on your most conservative clients and they’ll be yours forever. Clients want these unexpected elements but have no idea what to ask for. It’s up to you to tap into some of these trend-setting concepts to find the right way to integrate artistry into your nail services. Once they try it and see the spectacular results, they’ll never go back to single color. As you can see, offering nails as a true fashion accessory has many dimensions and options. The key is to be versatile and creative, stay educated on what’s new and tap into the reality of every client to stay a step ahead of their choices. And remember: charge what it’s worth to be on top of the fashion flair that’s right for each client, and continue to elevate your value as their go-to nail and beauty professional! n Jan Arnold is the co-founder of CND. Her experience as a brand engineer has contributed to CND’s international success while her high-fashion personal style makes her the perfect face of the brand. Contact www.pacificnail.com.au

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The invisible

(WO)MAN

Something happens to a woman when she goes through menopause, and I am not talking about the hot flushes, the forgetfulness, the lack of energy, the burgeoning waistline; it’s the fact that she becomes invisible, laments Yvette van Schie. “I HAVE BECOME invisible” my 50-something girlfriend announced in a deflated voice, “completely, utterly, invisible”. Men don’t become invisible as they age, but women do. As soon as we lose our hormones, we tend also to lose much of our femininity. I have watched girlfriends who used to be real head-turners - men-walking-into-poles-staringtype beauties - morph into uncrecognisable, asexual creatures. We also do become slightly annoying when we dig around in our handbags, completely distressed, looking for our purses that we could have sworn were in our bags when we left home, whilst behind us the line at the checkout becomes longer and longer. We see eyes rolling skyward when, due to our worsening night blindness, backing the car without a reverse camera in fading light makes us reverse ever so slowly so as not to add another ding... Between hot flushes, forgetfulness and exhaustion, just getting basic work done becomes progressively harder to do. All of the time and effort put into our skin throughout our lives now seems likes a complete waste of time, as we still look haggard and old more often than not. For many women the solution to restoring their fading beauty is to turn to facelifts and fillers etc., but this can just make them looked “worked on” unless they hit the jackpot and find a cosmetic surgeon or physcian who actually knows how to do a subtle job of it.

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But so many don’t. Menopause is something all women will go through – just as we all have to go through puberty. But for pubescent teenagers at least there is a light at the end of the tunnel; this too shall pass. And if they eat well, and take care of their skins, it shall pass sooner than later! For the menopausal woman, however, there is nothing that can be bought off the shelf that really works, because as therapists we know that a cream cannot turn back the hands of time, even if the marketing departments of any number of cosmetic companies tell you it can. It hit me really hard as to exactly how invisible the menopausal and postmenopausal woman is, when a nutritionist friend of mine who has written multiple books on having healthy babies, brought a book to her publisher on menopausal health - and was told it would not sell. How incredibly naïve was that publisher! The baby boomers and older gen Xers are all going though, or have passed through, menopause.

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This market control most of the money in the world. They have more to spend, and want to spend it on themselves for a change. They are ripe for the plucking for the smart and caring beauty therapist. I say caring, as these women have not come down with the last shower of rain. They may not be able to find their car keys (which are next to them on the counter) but some of them have, and still run, successful if not powerful businesses, or are the upper management in their company. Many of these late 40s through to late 50s women have spent most of their lives financing their children and their mortgages. The problem is, one day they wake up and look in the mirror to find that a truck must have run over them. Because they are time-poor thanks to work, being constantly tired, and sometimes still having teenage kids around the house, they want fast results and are happy to pay for them. The problem is, they usually then turn to plastic surgery as they so yearn to look pretty again. Sometimes they go to the hairdresser and dye their hair purple, pink, green or blue – which works as people definitely will look at them - but for all the wrong reasons!

And therein lies the secret in how to take care of these clients: to remember that all they want is to be pretty again – not necessarily youngerlooking - but pretty. The best part is, if you get it right, you will have a client for life – as well as all of their friends and their daughters. The problem is that when these women turn up at a salon looking like train wrecks, there is no time taken to actually discuss a plan of attack to help them look attractive again. As a therapist, my first goal is to find out what it is they want treated – not what they want done. What I mean by that is I ask them what results they want; do they want to look more lifted, more toned, smoother, even-skinned – or basically younger or their prettiest. If you ask what they want done, you will get

ALL OF THE TIME AND EFFORT PUT INTO OUR SKIN THROUGHOUT OUR LIVES NOW SEEMS LIKES A COMPLETE WASTE OF TIME, AS WE STILL LOOK HAGGARD AND OLD MORE OFTEN THAN NOT.

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THE PROBLEM IS THAT WHEN THESE WOMEN TURN UP AT A SALON LOOKING LIKE TRAIN WRECKS, THERE IS NO TIME TAKEN TO ACTUALLY DISCUSS A PLAN OF ATTACK TO HELP THEM LOOK ATTRACTIVE AGAIN.

a “I would like a peel or microdermabrasion or a light therapy treatment”. Simply, they will tell you what they think they want done, because it’s something they’ve read about in a magazine, or heard from one of their friends, but it does not allow you to recommend the correct treatment(s). Also find out how large or limited their budget is (this is not easy) but explain that it gives you an idea of the best plan of attack. If you are a young therapist, do not say things like “I love this mask! Every time I use it, it makes my skin glow” as your older client will just look at you and think “Stupid girl; she doesn’t know what she’s talking about” and you will instantly lose her, as she is not going to get the same results from that mask that you are. Your client needs to leave feeling pretty, or at least feeling she has taken a step towards beauty. I know this is hard to achieve when you have just given them a hairstyle which looks like a cockatoo thanks to your amazing head massage, but I recommend adding extra things to the facial which will give them instant results. I wax their faces for free as part of their facial. Sometimes I get them to come in 24 hours before to have their waxing done if I am doing a peel. Unfortunately, with menopause comes facial hair growth, which just makes a woman feel ghastly ugly. I always sell in lash and brow tinting at a discounted price so they walk out with defined lashes and brows. This gives them an instant facelift. If your client is on a tight budget, and her facial is a one-off treatment, make it work; make sure you get some major results from it, but most

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importantly, make sure the experience is a major pampering session. If the treatment is via a voucher, do not dismiss this client as a one-offwonder who most probably will not return just because she cannot afford the treatment – she has friends! And although she may not be able to afford it normally, make sure she feels as if she has regained some of her beauty before she leaves. Menopause affects the whole body, not just the face, so recommend body treatments for slimming and toning; more so the later. The onset of batwing arms and sagging everything else is a soul-destroying experience. If your client is about to be a mother of the bride or groom, this is often where you need to step in and strongly recommend body treatments, or at least body creams and scrubs, to help her look her very best. I see so many mothers’ of the bride and groom who have bought sleeveless dresses which are all lacy and fitted, but the skin on their arms is dry, pigmented and loose. They have been very disciplined and exercised, dieted, and had their facials, but no one has recommended body care. It always shows in the photos. Depending on how well your clients are accepting menopause, or not, and/ or how well they are coping, or not coping at all, will also determine if you recommend they visit a menopause clinic for bio-identical hormone therapy. Bio-identical hormones are not HRT, but a more natural hormone replacement therapy which will help women feel better, as well as lose weight, and improve the way they respond to facial treatments. If you have a client who is just not coping with all her menopause symptoms; this can be a perfect path for her to discover a new lease of and on life. I know as a young therapist, I was always keen to get the best results for my clients, but I never could understand how my clients felt. I even admit thinking to myself that I would never let myself age that badly! But today as a post-menopausal woman, I get it; I am one of those women trying to work out what happened to my figure and my face, and although I have always looked well after both, I cannot get over how much harder it is once you are hormone-free! We live in a youth-obsessed society, even with stars such as Helen Mirren and Julianne Moore carving the road to ageing gracefully and being seen as still beautiful.

Modelling agencies are crying out for goodlooking mature age models as other industries outside the beauty sphere (not including plastic surgeons – they have known this for a long time) have caught on where the money is. They know that no Baby Boomer will want to buy something a Millennial model is promoting. We are an ageing population, with men and women living well into their nineties. This means that out of 70 years of spending money on beauty - based on most girls starting spending at 20 and finishing at 90 - more money will be spent by women post-menopause than pre-menopause. Just because 80 and 90 year olds are not spending money at this moment in time, do not for one minute believe that successive generations won’t. The Baby Boomers and older Gen Xers want to age disgracefully, not gracefully. They intend to live long and well, and go out with a bang – not fade away into oblivion as our parents did and are doing. With that information in mind, isn’t it time that beauty therapists start making girls like my friend feel less invisible? Let’s remove the words ‘faded beauty’ from our female language, and change it to ‘mature beauty’ for a start. n Yvette van Schie is a qualified beauty therapist and makeup artist who has been a practitioner of holistic beauty for 28 years. Contact www.ethixbeautyblog.com

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Igniting the SPARK “Ignite your passion and creativity; excel personally and professionally”. This was the theme and take-away message of the 2017 International Spa Association conference in Las Vegas. Report by Deborah Mangum-Copelli. Sue Harmsworth, founder of ESPA, receives, “Visionary Award” from Todd Shaw, Chairman of ISPA

KEYNOTE SPEAKERS OVER the three days were appropriately selected to motivate the 2300-attendee audience to reach greater heights as Amy Cuddy, Daniel Pink and Peyton Manning took to the main stage at Mandalay Bay. Amy Cuddy, a Harvard social psychologist and best-selling author, brought the ballroom to their feet in an arms raised V-position, one of her most recognisable and infamous “power positions”. As a highly sought-after speaker and expert on the behavioral science of power, presence and prejudice, Amy ignited a spark of authentic human capability, reminding us all that we can easily “take more space” anytime and anywhere. In her book, Presence: Bringing Your Boldest Self to Your Biggest Challenges, she provides tips on how to access our personal power, just like animals do when they need to protect their territory or defend themselves against a predator. If the job market is like the

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open paddock, then the most present, confident, compassionate and powerful applicant will win the position. She applies these basic principals to any situation we might find uncomfortable or anxiety provoking. By adopting a simple five-minute daily practice of “expansive powerful postures” you can practice at home or in the bathroom at your workplace, you will overcome the dread and fear you’d previously attributed to a personal or professional challenge. When we stop worrying about the impression we’re making on others and adjust the impression we’re making on ourselves, we’re living authentically, in the present moment. Amy reminds us to make our bodies as big as possible; to take more space with our arms and legs, get creative with it, and rehearse it daily. Her scientific studies conclude that we actually feel the emotion as we physically express the emotion. It’s activating our brain and sending messages to the nervous system. By becoming more expansive and open, we’re also putting ourselves in a better mood, releasing those feel-good chemicals of serotonin and endorphins. Dr. Cuddy goes on to say, “Our bodies change our minds and our minds change our behavior; therefore our behavior changes our outcomes”. We can learn to approach our daily challenges with confidence instead of trepidation, and come away from these experiences with satisfaction instead of regret.

WELLNESS

So, look, feel and act more powerful; “strike a pose” as Madonna so forcefully sings. Practice them in the mirror, hold those warrior positions in Yoga longer; get it into your body and brain, and you will become it. Speaking of influential people who continue to “ignite” the international spa and wellness world, Susan Harmsworth, founder of the brand and design company, ESPA, graced the stage to receive the 2017 ISPA Visionary Award. Daniel H. Pink, best-selling author of the book, Drive, and to Sell is Human powerfully delivered his keynote at the conference. His new book, When; the Scientific Secrets of Perfect Timing was just that – perfect timing. This nonfiction, motivational business tool will be on sale from January, 2018. Daniel’s research and experience spans work management and behavioral science; he shares that when we activate our right brain hemisphere, our creative side, we can work with “autonomy, mastery and purpose”. We will have the drive to do things because it matters to us. Not simply because of the money and status it brings; that’s nice too, but it’s not what keeps us engaged day to day. He cited an example of the work concept known as ROWE. It’s just about getting your work done on time. Some of the world’s top multinationals have taken on this methodology. Within ROWE, “Results Only Work Environments”, there are no schedules, no specific office cubicles, and meetings are optional. In ROWE organisations, productivity is up, employee engagement and satisfaction is up, and attrition is down. With some lateral thinking this can work for all businesses, even those in the service sectors like salons and spas. By implementing the general philosophy of training your staff well, and giving them exceptional education, you are empowering them. Listening to your staff and giving them a platform for their ideas encourages loyalty and inclusion and it stimulates creativity. Daniel goes on to explain the expression, “timing is everything”; we experience this on a daily basis from what we say to our client when we answer the phone, to how we address them as they leave our reception area. Just by paying attention to “timing”, we can live, work, and succeed in a more flourishing way.

WHEN WE STOP WORRYING ABOUT THE IMPRESSION WE’RE MAKING ON OTHERS AND ADJUST THE IMPRESSION WE’RE MAKING ON OURSELVES, WE’RE LIVING AUTHENTICALLY, IN THE PRESENT MOMENT. Peyton Manning may not be a household name in Australia, but he sure is in the USA. As an NFL superstar and gridiron quarterback, most recently for the Denver Broncos, the newly-retired Peyton is now on the speakers’ circuit inspiring fans and groups worldwide. His message is clear and simple; it’s about winning and leadership. And that’s all relative and subjective; it’s up to each of us as an individual to interpret winning in our own way and run with it. The key, says Peyton, is in your attitude and intention. Some of Manning’s famous quotes will resonate with many of us and can be applied in our personal and professional pursuits. Here are some of his classics; you can insert yourself and your job role as you read these: • It’s not the wanting to win that makes you a winner; it’s refusing to fail. • Life is about choices. You ask the questions, and you listen to the answers. Then you listen to your heart.

• Pressure is something you feel when you don’t know what you’re doing. • I’m the best Me. • You’ve got to remember what your priorities are; what you do out there is the most important thing. • If you work hard and you deliver, all those critics quiet themselves pretty quickly. • I’ve never left my work saying “I could have done more to get ready” and that gives me peace of mind. • One thing that can never be sacrificed is your preparation and your work ethic. • It takes 20 years to build a reputation and five minutes to ruin it. Are you feeling more motivated, taking more physical space and focusing on your timing? I hope so; these keynote speakers have honed in on what matters to them as individuals, and now they are sharing their experiences and knowledge, just as you do everyday. A blast of new ideas that stimulate energy and excitement into our day to day is a good thing. Each of these speakers can be heard on Ted talks online, and I encourage you to check them out. With 25 Professional Development sessions held in breakout rooms around the conference venue, education was a key component of the ISPA agenda. Just to give you an overview of some of the topics covered, these top professionals in their specific fields focused on just what ISPA attendees wanted to hear. You can learn more by visiting http://attendispa.com/education On day one, Merit Gest delivered a dynamic presentation on how to “Attract, Engage & Keep Top Talent”. She referred to some stats on the number of new hires in the industry and how we can capture the right candidates for our spa and salon environment. Within our businesses, we need to look at values, expectations and career paths as a platform to present to our interviewees and new hires so we can engage them and give them a future within our companies. Merit shared some very practical organisational tools we all need to have prepared prior to a new employee coming on board. “First impressions are lasting impressions”, and this rule also applies when a new staff member joins our team, so let’s be ready to teach, share, and make them feel at home. So what about, “Managing and Marketing to Millennials”? Jim Mathis had some answers for ISPA on this. Born from 1980-1995, millennials are a demographic group often classified as enthusiastic, tech-savvy, entrepreneurial and opportunistic, but can also be unproductive and self-obsessed. Jim shared a quote from Frank

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

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Martin, a basketball coach who works with this generational group daily. Frank says “Kids haven’t changed; we’ve changed as adults. We demand and expect less of these kids. We make their lives easier instead of preparing them for what life is truly about; we’re the ones who have changed.” We have to amend our strategy to market to millennials by thinking more globally, as they do, give them the reasons why, because they want to know. Understand that this young demographic cares more about the cause, not the rules. And give them short-term opportunities, and flexibility, which goes along with mobility, because they are a generation on the go. Millennials are excellent networkers, so let them use their expertise at work, to work for your brand growth”. Dawn Kaiser embraced her breakout room with “Contagious Joy; Increasing Customer Satisfaction through Positivity”. The title alone says it all; happiness and engagement at work is about our employee’s commitment and involvement. The more our staff feel they are part of something bigger, something that matters, the more productive, joyful and positive they will be. “Success does not lead to joy; joy leads to success”! And this joy and positivity spreads outwardly and attracts clients into our spas and salons and keeps them coming back for more.

Peyton Manning compares football wins to life

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“Marketing Spa Services as a Component of the Longevity Lifestyle” was the title of Heather Lee’s presentation. She stressed how to de-stress your clients by adding menu choices that serve the needs of those wanting to increase their lifespan by 10 years. Of course that means contracting the experts to deliver those services. Wellness coaches should be skilled to focus on “The Blue Zone Nine”, which involves client guidance on Movement, Purpose, Relaxation, Eating 80/20, Eating a Plant-based Diet, Wine Socially, Belief & Faith, Family-Intimacy and Community. On Day Two, Anna Moine was only one of 10 speakers, her message very crisp and clear “The Art of Retail: Merchandising and Display Tools to Create an Engaging Retail Environment”. In a survey she conducted in March, 2017, Anna found that 73 per cent of consumers still prefer to shop in a store, where they want to try, touch and feel the product. Anna said focusing on who your client is, not what a product offers, creates the right buying environment and engages your therapists to sell. On your must-do list for your retail areas is “Create a visual impact outside and inside, DIY with recycled materials, use green living things, merchandise by colour, source from local markets, craft stores and your own home. And change your displays every four to six weeks.” Carol Stratford and Sharon Rapoport delivered a compelling talk on “Question MARK-eting: Asking the Questions that Lead to Real Results”. As a rule, you need good brand identity, to make sure your logo and the message you are conveying, your brand personality, is in line with the product and service you are providing. It all comes back to knowing your audience, who are your most loyal clients, and why they frequent your business. Getting back to the core values of your brand is integral to long-term success. Change and a refresh are good, but only if it’s still answering the needs of your clients. Day Three might have been a wrap of the conference, but the Education Sessions were still very fresh and new. As provided by Joy Baldridge, she

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Amy Cudy positions ISPA for power

came in with a winning delivery of her message “Making the Best Even Better: How to Adapt and Thrive Successfully during Change”. Always flexible and adaptable, functioning in disaster and finishing in style, was her focus. Breathe and find a way to implement your tools of vision, skills, incentive, resources, action plan and then CHANCE! You can overcome confusion, anxiety, complacency, frustration and mediocrity by just employing these few simple steps. Control the controllable and use words that matter. Jacent Mpalyenkana graced her ISPA session “Using the Art of Persuasion to Connect with more Customers” as a way to get attendees to hone into the specifics of their individual businesses. She sights, amongst many other valuable lessons, that by using these five Persuasive Words in your presentations to clients, you will glean the most favorable and financial rewards. Use the word, Free, because people like what’s free; More, as it triggers an excitement in your prospect as to the extras they might be getting; You, makes clients feel like they’ve got all the attention on them; Their Name, everyone enjoys being addressed by their name, it’s respectful and personal; Imagine, this takes your client’s brain into all the realms of imaginative possibility, even investing in your services and products. “Well-Thy Trends of 2020 and Beyond”, really resonated with ISPA 2017 attendees, as everyone wants advice about the future of our beloved industry. And so, Barbara Badolati took on the task, albeit she doesn’t personally claim the gift of psychic ability. In her engaging way, Barbara listed the Top 10 Top of Minds for 2020 being “good health, time for what’s important, good relationships, smart spending, work/life balance, job I love, pursue passions, physically fit, new experiences, and learning”. She quotes Seth Godin as saying, “A trend gains power over time, because it’s not merely part of a moment; it’s a tool, a connector that will become more valuable as other people commit to engaging in it”. A trend is not to be confused with a fad; a fad is a behavior that is intensely followed by a select population for a short period of time. And yes, a fad can also become a trend over time depending on its grasp and reach to a larger community.

Take a look, for example, at how health and wellness has now crept into everyday living. It’s commonplace to find half or more of people doing their Saturday shopping in fitness clothing. Some are purchasing nutritious meals and supplements before they go off to their Yoga class, after which they check into their local spa or salon for a facial. Look at all the apps now availabe to track your fitness and keep you relaxed through meditation! These wellness trends are here to stay because they are real, viable, and make sense to people who want to live longer, fuller, happier lives. The ISPA 2018 global conference will be held 24-26 September, at the Phoenix Convention Center hosted by the Sheraton Grand, in Phoenix, Arizona, USA. You can find out more by visiting the ISPA website on: https://experienceispa.com n Deborah Mangum-Copelli, BA,MA,DipPsychClinHyp,PracNLP, is Managing Director of Mind Wellness Pty. Ltd., a Psychotherapy, NLP, Guided Meditation, Coaching and Hypnotherapy Company. Deborah’s experience spans Hotel, Resort and Day Spa consultancy projects in Asia Pacific the U.S. and Europe. You can E-Mail her on, deborah@ mindwellness.com or visit her website, www.mindwellness.com all of us needs now!

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Un-happy HOUR Here’s the good news: eating is still good for us, just much less of it, but alcohol isn’t, any of it. Michael Elstein serves up the bad news.

FEED MICE SUGAR and fat, and give humans alcohol, and the end result is just the same: dementia. Translate the mouse study into the human realm and there is now mounting evidence that the same two nutrients, when consumed in excess, are toxic to human brains. How has it transpired that two of our favourite national pastimes have become so detrimental to our health that behaviours traditionally associated with enjoyment and celebrated on reality TV cooking shows are now threatening our future survival? It’s not only sugar and fat that are bad for our brains, but also excess consumption of protein, especially that derived from animal sources. All this would appear to be counterintuitive as sugar, fat, and protein are considered essential nutrients.

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If we need sugar to fuel our mental function and brain cells are made up of fat and protein, how is it that excesses of these vital nutrients are so harmful? Doesn’t alcohol contain antioxidants and a beneficial substance called resveratrol, found in the skin of red grapes? Why then should this muchtreasured national pastime now be deemed deleterious? Here’s the rationale. We use sugar, or glucose, derived from carbohydrate-rich foods like grains, fruits and vegetables to provide us with energy. We also store glucose in the liver in the form of glycogen to deliver a ready supply of fuel which we use in the morning, for example before we eat. Glycogen is also deposited in the muscles so that we can fire up these vital structures when we need to engage in battle or hastily retreat from the enemy. But there is only so much space to accumulate glycogen, and once this is exceeded glucose is turned into fat. And fat can be hoarded without any constraints. The more glucose we eat, the more fat we stockpile. The same is true for fats, even the so-called ‘heart friendly’ varieties derived from nuts, seeds, avocado and olive oil can contribute to this large pool of flabbiness. This fat not only amasses on the outside of our

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bodies, it also swells up in the liver and the pancreas, forming a toxic mound of sludge that gums up the smooth functioning of these life-sustaining organs. Undermine the liver, our body’s prime remover of metabolic waste, and sully the pancreas where insulin, the hormone that regulates glucose activity, is manufactured and a ravaging tide of biochemical devastation begins germinating which isn’t easy to quell. The problem is that in its early stages, this raging tsunami is a slow growing wave of activity that doesn’t lead to any obviously detectable disturbances. It is possible to have a liver that is not functioning optimally and blood glucose levels that are marginally elevated without feeling physically compromised in any way. Even doctors aren’t unduly alarmed when they cast a rather dismissive eye over blood tests which reveal elevated liver enzymes or a scan which shows that the bearer has what is called a fatty liver. As obesity has become the new normal in this country, one of the ignominious top three nations in the world, along with the USA and New Zealand, where the majority of adults and a burgeoning number of minors are overweight or obese, blood tests that display raised liver enzymes and fatty livers even in those who are only modestly overweight aren’t managed with any sense of urgency. This type of profile often runs in tandem with a glucose level that is not yet diabetic high, but is raised enough to suggest that diabetes might become a future reality. Ideally these events need to be actioned early before a metabolic catastrophe, which often signifies that brain degeneration is smouldering, takes place. Aside from overseeing glucose utilisation, our primary source of energy, insulin also orchestrates a number of principle brain activities like appetite regulation, cognitive function and the production of chemicals which lead to healthy and stable emotional states. Once insulin becomes dysfunctional these processes start to unravel, paving the way for the progressive decimation of brain cells. Initially this takes place in a gradual and insidious fashion, so that by the time serious memory loss manifests, it’s way too late to reverse the destruction that has already occurred. A fasting blood glucose test which is greater than 5.5mmol/L or an elevated triglyceride level, an associate of cholesterol and a signpost for the unbridled build-up of fat, indicate that too much sugar and fat are being consumed and need to be curbed. The fat we have accumulated is preventing insulin from doing its job and the only way we can rectify this is to jettison all the mounds of blubber that are getting in the way. The problem with changing our behaviour is that fat and sugar zero in on the pleasure centres in our brain, cementing the kind of eating response which is difficult to flip. Resisting the temptation to take one more mouthful when foods are packaged with this in mind requires a massive act of self-control, which needs to be summoned repeatedly. If carbohydrates and fats are hard to resist, limiting protein might even be more exacting, even though it doesn’t taste as nice or elicit the same experience of euphoria. This is because, as Professor Stephen Simpson, academic director of the Charles Perkins Centre for the Study of Obesity, Diabetes, and Cardiovascular Disease at the University of Sydney, explains, we are driven by the protein leverage hypothesis. Because protein is an essential nutrient we default to our established pattern of protein consumption which is why high protein diets are difficult to sustain. This might not be a bad thing, as excessive consumption of protein is associated with an increased diabetes and cancer risk, at least in 50-60 year olds. Animals on restricted protein diets live longer, and if eating less protein is just as tough for us to maintain as eating more, we might take a leaf out of the book of centenarians who eat mostly plant protein and stop eating when they are 80 per cent full. As ruminants and the beef industry contribute significantly to global warning, this is a practice which might benefit us as well as the planet

The news is rather disconcerting when it comes to the national beverage. It’s official; alcohol is unreservedly bad for our brains, period, without any exception. We might now need a black box warning and a change in the way alcohol is packaged similar to that of cigarettes. During ad breaks for concussion stoppages, the radiant glow of television suggests alcohol can make us warm, homey and communal. New research suggests this may be a camouflage for incipient dementia with recent evidence indicating that moderate drinking - the consumption of just two alcoholic beverages daily or 11 to 16 standard drinks a week, for an extended period of time - shrinks the hippocampus, the brain’s memory centre. By damaging that part of the brain, scientists in Britain who followed the drinking habits of a large cohort of people from the ages of 40-70, found this pattern lead to an increased dementia risk. For those who think that even light drinking (up to seven units a week) might be beneficial, this behaviour resulted in no tangible upside, while heavy drinking (more than 30 units a week) lead to the most damage by not only destroying the hippocampus but also having destructive effects on brain ‘white matter’, the brain’s thinking and decision-making zone. As we are a culture with a strong tradition of alcohol consumption, like that of other western countries and most of the developed world for that matter, this message is likely to fall on deaf ears. This means we are heading for a cataclysmic future, which might not be that bad because when we get there, we might not have enough white matter to comprehend our predicament! The question is how do we morph from a nation with clearly destructive overindulgent habits to one of abstainers? There were times when scarcity mandated that we lived temperate lives. Now, in times of abundance, our future demands much more disciplined restraint. Once again the centenarians might have something to teach us. Aside from terminating their meals when they are 80 per cent full, they have smaller plates and they eat lots of vegetables which take time and effort to chew and digest. When our parents told us to eat our vegetables they must have been channelling the time honoured-wisdom of the centenarians. n Dr Michael Elstein is an author and physician at The Eternal Health Medical Centre, specialising in antiageing medicine, nutrition and dietary therapy. Contact www.eternalhealth.org

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

WELLNESS

The Midas TOUCH Most of us just need to think about massage to start dreaming of total mental and physical relaxation, says Mituri Pradip Sharma.

THERE’S GOOD REASON for it too, because if the wise adage of “old is gold” is worth any of its figurative weight, our ancestors were on a winning streak. Evidence of the ancient practice of healing the body through the act of kneading or applying pressure through one’s hands, elbows, knees, fingers, feet and forearms can be dated as far back as 2330 B.C. in The Tomb of Akmanthor. Loosely translated into “the tomb of the physician”, the etchings discovered in this historical crypt in Saqqara, Egypt, display two men having their hands and feet massaged. Furthermore, other ancient civilisations such as India, China, Greece, and Mesopotamia also allude to massage as a pertinent form of natural remedy to alleviate the effects of stress, injury and sickness. Charaka Samhita, widely believed to be the most ancient of the three parts of Ayurvedic medicine, includes massage and also states that the practice was used as a form of healing, long before the commencement of recorded history.

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Massage is noted in thirty different chapters in the Nei Jing book, thought to be the foundation of Traditional Chinese Medicine. , Even the ancient Greek philosopher, Hippocrates, often referred to as the Father of Modern Medicine, notes the importance of massage in the path towards healing. So why is this important, and what does it mean for our modern day lifestyles? Salons and spas are a starting point for many searching for alternative, more natural forms of healing the body, mind and spirit, and massage is one of the few options that can not only be used as a preventative and curing option, but also as a stress-buster that assists with all the trials and tribulations of a high impact and stressful contemporary lifestyle.

Natural decadence in spas and salons Many of us await our next salon or spa appointment the way we would a passionate, fleeting moment with a long-lost lover. This much needed “self ” time not only provides us with some precious moments to spend with one of the most important people in our lives – ourselves – but also gives us the opportunity to reflect in quiet contemplation. One of the most commonly requested practices in salons is massage. A good masseuse can hit the spot in more ways than one. Unlike an allopathic medical practitioner, an effective masseuse can help their clients feel relaxed, while gently kneading out the source of pain – both physical and emotional.

WELLNESS

This form of long-term remedy can heal from within, getting to the source of the problem rather than resulting in a band-aid solution that may fix the effects of the problem, but ignores the root of the evil, which often results in niggling, recurring issues. It is for this reason many of us think of our masseuse as our second (and often much more loved) healer.

Organic oils to promote better healing It would be safe to assume those clients interested in massage may be more aligned to natural tried and tested ways of healing. These precious customers are nature’s crusaders, advocates of saving their surroundings and most likely more open-minded and willing to try sustainable practices that are beneficial for themselves and the environment. I honestly believe Mother Nature has the solution to most of the health problems all her children face at one point or another in their lives. Though natural solutions may take a little longer than their chemical-filled counterparts, the organic- based medications we are all free to enjoy tend to treat the source of the problem, resulting in long- term benefits and healing rather than façade treatments. There is a wide variety of natural oils that focus on specific problem areas and internal issues our kaleidoscope of clients may face at any given moment. Maintaining a fine selection of these oils in a simple catalogue can be a wonderful way to educate clients while also leading them towards a more natural solution they can choose to use against the backdrop of the issues they might be experiencing. Under our expert guidance, of course!

Natural oils and their wondrous uses

Brahmi oil is a powerful blood purifier that can assist in treating chronic skin diseases including eczema and psoriasis. It also helps reduce signs of ageing and is excellent in tempering the effects of depression and fatigue. Ashwagandha oil acts as an anti-stress and adaptogenic agent, and is one of the main herbs used to rejuvenate the body. With its anti-wrinkle properties, Ashwagandha oil is excellent in fighting the signs of ageing. Black Sesame Seed oil is great for rehydrating the skin and is extremely good at treating dryness. An excellent source of vitamins E, A and B (except B-12), black sesame seed oil protects the skin from 45 per cent of the sun’s UV rays. Ancient Middle East peoples famously proclaimed this oil could heal any human ailment in one form or another, except death! Wild Himalayan Apricot oil is one of the best oils for the skin due to its multiple benefits including treating skin ailments such as itchiness, dryness and irritable skin, and scabies, as well as soothing inflammation and irritation caused by eczema and dermatitis. Rich in vitamin A and E, apricot oil easily penetrates the skin, leaving it feeling soft and silky. Jojoba oil is an excellent moisturiser that leaves skin feeling smooth, soft and hydrated with its anti-inflammatory properties, vitamins and minerals. Jojoba oil is also the most closely aligned in its properties to natural human skin and for this reason alone is a must-have for anyone who cares about and for skin. Black Cumin seed is regarded as one of the greatest forms of natural healing medicine currently available, and is used to treat a variety of skin conditions, including eczema and boils, and cold symptoms. Rosehip Seed oil is excellent in regenerating new skin cells and has great anti-ageing and rehydrating properties, and assists in minimising scarring.

Helping clients organically The organic lifestyle isn’t for everyone, so I am certainly not advocating throwing out all your much- loved and proven chemical formulas! They will

MAINTAINING A FINE SELECTION OF THESE OILS IN A SIMPLE CATALOGUE CAN BE A WONDERFUL WAY TO EDUCATE CLIENTS WHILE ALSO LEADING THEM TOWARDS A MORE NATURAL SOLUTION THEY CAN CHOOSE TO USE AGAINST THE BACKDROP OF THE ISSUES THEY MIGHT BE EXPERIENCING. UNDER OUR EXPERT GUIDANCE, OF COURSE! most likely always have a place in your salon regimen for some of your clients. However, with the organic sector growing phenomenally (the 2016 ABC report valued the Australian Organic Industry at a whopping billion dollars while the Professional Organic Trade Association of the United States declared their organic market to be valued at $4.7 billion last year, up by 3.7 billion from the previous year) I am suggesting you may wish to widen your horizons to encompass all your potential clients and customers to include a safe space for the more organically focussed ones. There are many who claim the organic lifestyle will eventually replace the current chemically-laden one, which is good news for those clients with a natural bent toward their skin. Don’t be left in the dust when it comes to the many natural forms of healing through massage and organic oils; communicate with your customers to learn about their needs and desires, and don’t forget to read between the lines – what are they telling you they feel like? Brainstorm with your staff, family and friends to develop a more holistic perspective on natural personal care and don’t be afraid to try something new. You can always start small to test the idea and enjoy branching out when it works. Who knows, you may never look back again! n Mituri is the marketing/PR lead for Nim-Véda Australia, and writes extensively in the organic and holistic health space. Having worked in the organic cosmetic sector since she was fourteen years old, Mituri’s passion for natural health solutions continues to follow Mother Nature’s lead. mituri@nimveda.com.

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

WELLNESS

PROBIOTICS

- a microscopic revolution Probiotics are live microorganisms that have a wonderful effect on the health of our gut, skin and hair. However, you don’t have to sit down to a plate of sauerkraut every night for your skin to glow and your hair to shine. The beauty industry is raising the bar and enriching skin and hair products with the friendly bacteria, writes Isabel Sleiman.

BEFORE REFRIGERATION, OUR ancestors preserved food so it wouldn’t spoil. These fermented foods were rich in probiotics, and inadvertently provided them with large quantities of friendly bacteria that nourished their guts and improved their immune systems. Today, foods rich in probiotics are largely missing from our diets. The most recognised probiotic-rich food in Western diets today, and renowned throughout the world for its ABC cultures, is yoghurt. However, in more recent years, healthconscious individuals have started looking for more ways to increase their probiotics intake. They are trawling recipes to find probiotic-rich foods they can add to their meals and improve their digestive and immune health. Some foods rich in probiotics include fermented vegetables, sauerkraut, miso, tempeh, kimchi, natto, and kombucha.

Probiotics in a nutshell Probiotics are live microorganisms, or friendly bacteria. They are found in the human body and fermented foods. Many microorganisms found in probiotic-rich foods are the same or similar to those found naturally in our bodies. A phenomenal 100 trillion microorganisms made up of thousands of different species live inside the human body. This massive ecosystem of

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microbiome defends our body from pathogens (bad bacteria), and keeps our immune systems robust and healthy. The friendly bacteria play a significant role not only in preventing disease, but improving metabolic health, autoimmune disorders, and influencing the makeup of the skin’s microflora. When we interfere with this delicate ecosystem, we inadvertently prompt a negative reaction.

Probiotics for healthy, happy skin Probiotics applied topically to our skin can re-establish and maintain the skin microbiome to treat skin complaints and promote younger and healthierlooking skin. Like our gut, our skin has a huge ecosystem of microorganisms. When healthy, it helps protect the skin from environmental aggressors that can cause adverse skin conditions, such as dermatitis, eczema, acne and rosacea. Probiotics produce acidic compounds, such as lactic acid*, that reduce the skin’s pH. This favours the growth of resident flora and discourages pathogens. Topical probiotics can enhance cellular renewal to hasten skin repair, increase collagen production to improve skin texture, reduce inflammation and ease skin sensitivity. Combined with an increase in exfoliation and hydration, probiotics minimise the appearance of wrinkles for additional anti-aging results and is suitable for all skin types including sensitive and dry skin. Some strains of probiotic bacteria are used to treat acne (see chart below), and may even become an alternative to topical antibiotics for treating the skin condition in the future.

*Lactic Acid

Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) found naturally in the human body. It is often added to moisturisers, toners and scrubs to exfoliate and brighten the skin, regulate the skin’s pH balance, and increases hydration.

Probiotic species and their benefits Saccharomyces cerevisiae, and all Lactobacillus species

Increases lactic acid production and lowers the skin’s pH for healthy, radiant skin.

Bifidobacterium longum, Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus fermentum, Lactobacillus paracasei, Streptococcus thermophilus

Increases skin hydration, reduces sensitivity and is anti-inflammatory.

Bifidobacterium breve, Lactobacillus johnsonii, Lactobacillus plantarum, Lactobacillus rhamnosus

UV protection and anti-ageing

Bacillus coagulan, Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium lactis, Enterococcus fecalis, Lactobacillus acidophilus, Lactobacillus bulgaricus, Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus paracasei, Lactobacillus plantarum, Lactococcus lactis, Streptococcus salivarius

Improves acne

Benefits of probiotics in skincare at a glance • • • • • • • •

improves the ratio of good bacteria versus pathogenic (bad) bacteria brings the skin’s pH balance back to its happy 4.5 - 5.5 range improves hydration and skin barrier function reduces epidermal water loss increases the rate of exfoliation reduces inflammation and redness decreases skin sensitivity treats acne

Probiotics add moisture, lustre, and strengthen hair Hair may be dead, but hair follicles are surrounded by blood vessels. When blood is clean and healthy, it nourishes not only your skin, but your scalp, hair and nails. Whether taking probiotics orally or applying directly to hair via a product or treatment, probiotics can help hair grow stronger, thicker and more lustrous. When we use harsh shampoos or we have a build-up of residue from hair products, we interrupt our body’s delicate ecosystem of microorganisms and throw the microbe environment off balance. The result is unfavourable growing conditions that cause hair to look dull, grow slowly, break, split, and increase frizz. Haircare products enriched with probiotics help regulate the microflora on the scalp, lower the hair’s pH, and stimulate sebum secretion to keep hair moisturised and shiny. The outcome is a healthy environment where hair can flourish and grow strong. n Isabel Sleiman is a fully qualified cosmetic chemist who joined the Trulux team in 2015. She has extensive knowledge of ingredients and formulations to create safe and effective products that customers delight in and love. www.trulux.com.au

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

WELLNESS

Check your ‘BLIND SPOTS’ Early in the new year is a time for reflection and resolution; you know the drill, says Adam Sheridan.

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TIME TO DO MORE: sleep, exercise, water, healthy food, meditation, sunscreen, time with family and friends, saying no, and saving. DO LESS: stress, multi-tasking, screen time and working for others… all to be enacted following the hectic Christmas and New Year break post haste… oh, and add finally finishing that inspirational book started over the summer break to the list! There can be a certain marching repetition to this process, such that we miss the melody for the beat. Let’s look at things from a different perspective to re-frame potential blind spots. 1. Good health. Leafing through my in-flight magazine recently I came across a profound line from Kelly Slater (legendary surfer). Asked

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Flat profiles

ce Balan

what his most prized possession was, he replied quite simply ‘my health’. Robust health (often conflated with youth) is a priceless gift. Once lost it is hard-to-impossible to recover. Build and guard yours well; at the end of the day it is your unique form of wealth no amount of money can buy. I often think that God/the universe/our parents have it the wrong way around. We are born into youth and increasing health so never learn its true value until it is too late and our powers are on the wane. How different it might be if we were born hunched and infirm and grew slowly into the bloom of health. Would we then so readily trade it off for shortlived instant gratification, overtime, and second mortgages…? 2. Time. Another precious gift so often and easily frittered away. A friend recently showed me an on-line calculator into which you dial your date and place of birth. It then generates a live countdown clock that displays your statistical average remaining years, months, days and hours on earth. Confronting to say the least. It reminded me that we tend to regard time in abstract terms, as if it is a regenerating resource. If only each new

WELLNESS

day were simply a reset of the last – kind of like that classic advert (am I showing my age?) with the magic Tim Tams. This may be so for the infinite universe. Sadly not so for we mortals. Take a moment to regard the babies and children in your life, how fast they change and evolve. It may not seem it, but this rate of change continues apace in you, the adult. Think carefully about the time you have; and how you may best spend this. Eliminate the people, activities and things in your life that waste this extremely precious commodity. Body habitus. How’s this for a crazy original thought: there is an excessive focus upon the superficial beauty and look of things in our society. The rise of curated social media profiles and the second on-line life has not helped. Although a nice face is an undoubted and welcome bonus, it can seem incongruous and strange if sat atop an unhealthy, dysfunctional body. Take time to honestly assess your optimal BMI and recall that this, and a healthy muscle mass, correlate more strongly with a long and healthy life than the number of likes for your latest holiday selfie! You may need seek out a trusted health professional; the politeness of others often means they will be reluctant to confirm an unhealthy lifestyle or body shape. Posture. When reflecting on the above, also take some time out to assess your own posture. This predicts mobility, vigour and comfort throughout life. For instance, for every 1-2 cm your head cranes forward over time, the tension on your neck and shoulder muscles doubles. Flip this in a positive way to realise that simple postural alignment may dramatically reduce the tension you feel in your back, neck and shoulders. Reconfigure the ‘T-Rex’ posture encouraged by desk work, computers and driving; hunched back, raised tight shoulders and bent arms poised to hit a keyboard. Redress this and you will no longer be on a first name basis with your local masseuse. Reclaim your youthful poise! Balance. Place this article to one side for a moment. Stand on one leg and balance. Not too hard, right? Now close your eyes and try to maintain your balance on one leg. If you are over 30 this can be tricky beyond a few seconds. It is considered a lead marker of diminished balance, heralding ineffective gait and reduced mobility in later life. Work on this now to maintain your sense of balance; and the leg and ankle muscles which contribute to this. Once you get the hang of this, mix it up by attempting to squat up and down upon one leg with your eyes closed… Flat profiles. In the world of selfies, most people quickly get to know and prefer their best angles. To properly assess your evolving features, and to understand how others regard you in real life, take flat frontal and side profile photographs from time to time. These will allow you to properly identify strengths to maintain, and weaknesses to address. These images are especially invaluable in assessing oneself and others for volume and structural support. Hands, feet, elbows and knees – and no, this isn’t a game of Simon Says. Remember to moisturise and photo-protect those extremities which bear the brunt of daily life. Well maintained and they convey a sense of body wide health and vitality. Once weathered however, they are quick to betray despite best efforts in the facial region. Consider laser, RF and micro-focussed ultrasound if the damage is done. Treats and habits. We are in large part defined by what we do. Remember that habits, including guilty treats, add up to a point where they represent your lifestyle, if indulged frequently enough. This goes for bad posture, unhealthy diet, and alcohol. Just because they are not on your actual to-do list does not mean they do not have an equivalent impact as your better intentioned actions. Make a list of your worst bad habits and work to actively minimise them. Start now. Oh, and procrastination is often top of the list (mine included)

9. Sunscreen. I remain surprised each week by patients exclaiming ‘What? Every day?!’ when advised to apply a 50+ broad spectrum sunscreen to their face and exposed skin. The act itself is quite trivial, but as with all beneficial health care actions, like the dreaded flossing (you know you should!), it can take a while to establish as a permanent feature in our busy schedules. By way of motivation, it is good to recall the manifold benefits of sunscreen. Beauty for one. Skin cancer another. And there is a confluence. A few seconds spent applying sunscreen daily pays big dividends, reducing the risk of skin cancer requiring surgery. Granted, advanced surgical techniques such as Mohs Micrographic surgery keep tissue destruction and subsequent scarring to a minimum, while laser and related treatments work to reduce the impact of any inevitable scars, but why not prevent surgery and disfiguring scars in the first place? 10. Humanity. A prevailing narrative presumes that we are all to be replaced by machines. Proponents parrot the famous Blade Runner line that our AI replacements will be ‘more human than human’. Herein resides an important point. We are winning as we are already human. Embrace your humanity at least as strongly as you embrace new technology. Think carefully before trading this away for low-value social media interactions. Visit a friend. Engage in a meaningful, unscripted conversation and experience together. 11. Experience and wisdom. Time for a mental experiment. Stop, think and write down what age you would wish to be, if you had to remain that age forever. Consider this as if you will only ever possess the experience and knowledge possessed upon that birthday. This simple experiment highlights the value of time spent living, gaining experience and valuable insights. Sure, you may have looked and felt great at 18, but do you really wish to return or remain there in ‘Groundhog Day land’ forever? Probably not. Embrace the year to come, all that you shall learn and do, and all those you are yet to meet. I wish you a happy and healthy New Year! n Dr Sheridan is a dermatologist specialising in Mohs micrographic surgery and medical lasers. www.sdsl.com.au

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

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INDUSTRY ROUNDTABLE

Kellie Cohen

Sue Dann

Jay Chapman

Clare Lamberth

Tanya Ahmed

RETAIL SALES About:

Retail sales was the focus of the third Professional Beauty Industry Roundtable. Nine thought leaders tackled six questions that covered how to best choose the right retail range, how to increase purchases, optimising retail presentation, motivating team members to sell, methods to encourage clients to buy, the impact of personalisation and customisation and how to keep pace in a changing retail landscape. Our participants identified opportunities for salons to increase their retail sales and profits, taking into account the increasing competition faced by salons, especially by online sellers.

Venue:

Pauline Valle

Guests dined in the remarkable Theatre Royal, inside two hat French restaurant Hubert, located underground in the heart of Sydney. They feasted on a selection of fantastic French food including roasted snails with XO sauce, prime beef tartar, a selection of cured meats, duck parfait liver mousse, steak frites and seared tuna while sipping the finest French plonk. Hubert is a Swillhouse venue, owned by Anton Forte and

Karen Wilkin

James Carroll

Sarah Austin

Jason Scott, whose portfolio of venues includes Shady Pines Saloon, The Baxter Inn and Frankieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Pizza. Our dedicated video team, Big Review TV, were on hand to capture all the action in a professional, high-quality setting.

Participants:

Karen Wilkin-Donachie - Ultraceuticals CEO Clare Lamberth - Beauty On Latrobe owner Sue Dann - OmniDerm skincare expert Tanya Ahmed - Sharkra Medi Spa and Sharkra Academy of Aesthetics director and CEO Jay Chapman - Zing Business Coaching senior coach Pauline Valle - Ultraderm director Kellie Cohen - Focus On Skin owner James Carroll - International Beauty Supplies general manager Sarah Austin â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Skinsational owner

For more:

To see all the action captured on the day and watch the full discussions on video, visit https://www.professionalbeauty.com.au/roundtable.

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

INDUSTRY ROUNDTABLE

QUESTION: What are the key considerations when choosing a retail range for a salon, clinic or spa, and a supplier partner for the experience? LEARNING: IT’S CRUCIAL THE SUPPLIER AND THE SALON HAVE SIMILAR VALUES AND SHARE THE SAME PHILOSOPHY WHEN IT COMES TO SKINCARE. Tanya: “Choosing a skincare range or a retail range, you need to stay very true to yourself, understand how you want to treat the skin and what modalities and what skin care you need to make that possible. I have been through quite a few skin care ranges, all of which are very professional, all of which have given outstanding service. Ultimately, then, it lies within yourself as the owner or the manager, the decision maker, of how you ethically want to treat your client. What really resonates with you and what sits really holistically with you and what you feel is going to give you the best results for your clients? Price point is secondary. It’s almost irrelevant. When you’re delivering quality and results to your clients, price point doesn’t even come into the equation.” Clare: “Support after the purchase and education are such key deciding factors for me. I need to know whether or not my staff and I are going to be supported in the education of that brand. My staff need to be supported if they’re able to be armed with the tools they need to be able to carry out their roles as therapists. They need to be able to professionally recommend those brands and those products to clients, and their education needs to be ongoing. I like to know they can hit the ground running and they can start their education process straight away. It’s understanding your customer, too. To understand what are the demographics of your area, of your business, and what do your customers want? Listen to your clients and get that feedback to be able to choose ranges that will best be able to service your clients’ needs.” Pauline: “As a supplier we want passion, we want commitment, we want the salon to share the same philosophy as us. We want the salon to head in the same direction as us. Of course, it’s absolutely paramount that we’re getting the results on the skin that your client so requires. When you’ve got that marrying together, we can only make such a great business between the two of us. That’s what we look for when salons are coming on board with us.” James: “Salons need to aware of how the pricing structure works and the distribution of the brand, because, as a supplier, we need to make sure we’re able to have prosperity across different distribution channels. If a brand’s distribution is not controlled in the right way, it can mean that you’re not able to sell, and have to compete. It’s very important to choose an ethical supplier who tries to maintain the professional standard of the industry. Otherwise, you just find that you’ll do all the hard work, and you’ll end up with somebody who’ll undercut you on eBay.” Kellie: “Communication is important - to be able to speak to the supplier on the phone directly. Because often, you’ll be put into a position where you really need some answers, you might have some problems with a product or you might need more information. That

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ability to be able to speak directly to the people is really important. Sometimes, you might not even have what you need in your range. I’ve been involved in diﬀerent products that we’ve put together with Ultraderm which have produced great results. At the end of the day, that’s what you want. You want results, you want your clients to be happy.” Sue: “The (brand) choices are somewhat greater now than they used to be. The way you treat skin has also changed from when I joined the industry 40 years ago. You’ve got to have the core philosophy. If you have the philosophy as a supplier, and then you can ﬁnd your salons that you’re going to be working with has the same philosophies, it’s a two-way street and it’s a win-win situation. That’s the important thing.”

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Karen: “We’re very deeply rooted in education. We have to empower the therapists with the correct amount of information. That gives them the confidence to then deliver the service, but also deliver the professional recommendation to their guest, so that home care can be delivered when they’re away from the clinic or the salon. So, for us, education is actually everything. We look at more of a blended -learning approach, with online and face-to-face training. We’re in a world of anytime, anywhere, any place education. What’s on our mind is how we deliver that.” Sarah: “It’s important to have back-up and constant communication. A supplier that’s just a phone call away, which comes to the salon regularly to give us information that we can pass onto our clients and keep them coming back, is great.” Jay: “Your values absolutely have to align with the product company. If you’re after something that’s more natural, organic, vegan, gluten free, whatever it is, your service offering has to support that. If I was looking for a skincare range, I’d be looking for something that is Australian-made and owned, and active because I want to see results. That’s not everyone’s value. Making sure your values align is important. Also look at price point - not how expensive or affordable the product is - but make sure that it’s congruent with your service offering. If you’re a very express, affordable service offering, it doesn’t make sense to have a very high price point product. It could be something that you consider to have more of a ‘beer’ option rather than a ‘champagne’ option for people that see value in a more affordable range.”

RETAIL SALES

QUESTION: What techniques could be used in salons to incentivise impulsive purchases? What guidance can a supplier offer in regards to optimising the retail presentation within a salon or clinic?

Kellie Cohen (Focus on Skin) and James Carroll (International Beauty Supplies).

LEARNING: THE DESIGN OF YOUR RETAIL SPACE, THE PRESENTATION OF YOUR PRODUCT AND PROMOTIONAL CALENDARS MUST ALL BE CONSIDERED. Clare: “When it comes to a retail space, what’s important is ﬁrst impressions. While impulse purchases are made at point of sale, the decision making process starts a lot earlier. It starts online, it Tanya Ahmed (Sharkra Medi Spa), Jay Chapman (Zing Business Coaching) and Sarah Austin (Skinsational).

Kellie Cohen prepares for the roundtable.

starts in all the different touch points that the client interacts with before they step into your business. It’s important as a business that your first impression communicates to the client exactly what’s on offer with that salon. If you have a promotion that you’re wanting to focus on, that those marketing touch points are displayed. The story is easily displayed throughout the salon, whether that be posters or product displays. The language the staff are using. That all plays a part in being able to communicate that message across to the consumer. Ensure your supplier can offer you support when it comes to promotions that are either offered by them, or support you if you want to create a promotional focus on a certain element of your own business.” Pauline: “You’ve got to make it a very simple message, and very quick for your client to decipher what’s going on. We say 80 percent is what your product is all about, while the remaining 20 percent is the fandangle supporting that product. Some salons get carried away with all the glitz and glamour. That’s not the story. The story is the product - so, stick to the product. You’ve also got to use your supplying company’s posters, brochures and to support the same stories. So there’s flow and hot spots in your salon. Look for those hot spots, because that’s where people go to. Direct clients to them and have the products easily displayed for your clientele. Always ask your supplier for help if you need it - you’ll find most suppliers are very willing to. As manufacturers, as we are, we’re very happy to help supply and support your ongoing sales. It’s really, really important in your salon.”

James: “It’s about interaction, because one salon is different to another. The supplier needs to be aware that what is right for you may not be right for someone else. We have to have a few different options available. It is customising, but it’s also staying focused. You can have too much stuff. It’s better to change things regularly and keep it new than just have everything for everybody. Think about colour. OPI always tries a lot of colour. It’s also about having a seasonal offering or something that does change because there is an impulse factor in some of the lower price points in the salon. You also need to be aware of what the supplier is doing in the marketplace, so that you can capitalise on some of their marketing initiatives, whether it be key product launches, or seasonal-based campaigns. If you are aware of what the brand is doing on Instagram or social media, it means you don’t really have to do a lot in your salon to capitalise on the marketing that’s already been done.” Sue: “You’ve got to stay focused on what you really believe in. I’ve been in some salons in the past where they have had lots of different stuff. It’s almost like a gift shop. That’s not really giving the message that you’re professional. Also, where you put the best products is important, like at eye-level, like a supermarket. What a lot of people forget is that a salon is actually a retail shop. It is a salon, but retail is such an important part of this. The product placement is important. You can learn a lot from supermarkets.” Tanya: “I’ve been into other clinics where the actual presentation of the product is lacking, the box is damaged or it’s discoloured. We forget the start of the show is the product. So, whether or not you’ve got all this fluff around it, if the product itself isn’t up to scratch and you want to promote it, you’re not going to. No-one’s going to buy it. It comes back to your supplier to package things properly to make sure that quality is delivered all the time.”

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Jay: “One tip that is overlooked a lot is getting back to bare basics - having a hero product and having six per year. Really focus on that one product for a two-month period. It can be as simple as having your hero product as sunscreen. Everyone needs to be wearing sunscreen. If they’re not, then showing the customer the sunscreen that would be perfect for them. Really featuring that product. We forget how much we know about our range. It can be really overwhelming for a client to look at a whole stand of all these amazing products. Educate them, one product at a time.” Karen: “The design of the retail area is often an opportunity. What I most commonly find is there are great opportunities to educate salon and clinic owners on the sides of retailing, which starts with laying out the space. Where do you put your reception desk? Where do you place your retail fixtures? Where is the primary real estate for the consumer to be most attracted to when they walk in the door? If you’re having a walk-in guest, you should design the space so it supports the natural behaviour of a consumer. They’ll feel instantly comfortable and they start browsing, then potentially shopping. This is sometimes different to the guest coming in for service, who will go straight to the desk and announce that they’re here for their appointment, but then may be waiting. Therefore, where we place the waiting area and where they’re sitting, are they viewing the retail? Or are they looking at the person at the desk, which isn’t very helpful? You need to have your best-selling products in the primary space, because that will attract more new guests, if you’re in an environment where people are walking by your front door and you have a lot of foot traffic. It can be very conducive to bringing in new guests that you may not otherwise get. If they’re looking into a space where it looks very confused and there’s too much going on, consumers are not likely to walk into that space. If they see a very organised retail layout, and it looks like it might be comfortable to go in and browse, they are more likely to come into the front of your space. You may have not just a retail guest, but also a service guest and maybe a lifetime guest, as well. The biggest opportunity is really helping salon and clinic owners really critically look at their space and optimising where they have invested their rental for their retail space. Very often, I’m encouraging people to almost their desk and their retail shelving, because they haven’t realised some of the science of retailing the retailers know so well. In our industry, it’s not so often spoken about. When you’re remodelling, it’s a great chance, but, even if you’re not remodelling, it’s often very inexpensive to actually move around your space. We do this quite regularly.”

RETAIL SALES

QUESTION - How do you get your stuff to focus on how beneﬁcial it is for the client to have the right products and what role can a supplier play in offering training that raises the level of product knowledge for those sell on staff members?

Clare Lamberth, (Beauty on Latrobe), Sue Dann (Omniderm) and Karen Wilkin-Donachie (Ultraceuticals).

LEARNING – FIND OUT WHAT MOTIVATES YOUR STAFF AND WHAT THEY ARE FEARFUL OF. Jay: “There are two points I want to raise. The first one is, what motivates us in the first place? Why should we recommend products to our clients? Once we have awareness and clarity on that, that forms a really good, solid foundation for the product company reps to come and do their thing and educate on active ingredients and how the product needs to be applied, etc. A lot of salon owners ask me, ‘How do I motivate my team to get them to recommend, to get them to sell?’ It’s a really boring answer. It’s accountability. You’ve got to keep them accountable. That word accountability has a bit of a negative connotation. You can hold your hand of your staff member until they get it. Focus on one area. Absolutely nail it and praise them and shine on them. That is the key. Working on their mindset. Find out what holds them back, help them through that and then come in and educate on the product and the process and the system. I’ve always said, if you care, you will share. The sale will come.” Pauline: “It’s very important when choosing your product range, that you do have a full understanding of what is expected from your supplier. We offer continuous training; we don’t just do one training session. As soon as our clients take our product line on board, we hit them straight away with training. We follow up with a VIP, we give them promotional data. Usually, we’d spend a day or two with them to really get them up and running. What we’re doing is working side-by-side with these clients, so they get a full understanding of how the Ultraderm range works on the skin and what outcome they can expect. It’s us empowering them and taking them through the educational steps that they need to understand to get to the end, and how best it’s going to work for them and their clients. Education is number one. We have to accommodate all ways of training. We do a lot of in-salon training. You’ve got to offer internet training at any given time, too, because of staff turnover. If we can offer training online at any time, that works very well. We like to do conferences annually. That is all about training, but we offer awards as well. We offer a rewards system to staff that make targets within the salon. We offer that to their customer as well. Everybody gets a little bit along the way. But, it’s all about making sure they meet these targets and there’s a very big gap between services and retailing. As suppliers have to empower them and the education is just absolutely paramount. We must educate out therapists. We need the salon and the therapist to understand, we’re not flogging, we’re just introducing, and we’re doing our job. If we’re not doing that job, we’re selfish, because we’re not really looking after the customer to the best that we know we can. With a client, 97 percent of time is what they do with their skin at home; three percent of the time is what the salon does. That’s why it’s so important that we have a really good home regime going on.” Tanya: “The responsibility lies with the salon owner to create a selling environment. It can’t just be a one way street for therapists,

telling them ‘You must sell, this is your job, you must do this’. It’s our job as salon owners, suppliers and manufacturers, to create that selling environment and that buying environment. I learnt this from some recent training. We went from ‘sell, sell, sell,’ to ‘hang on, let’s create that buying feeling for our client’. Get the client excited about what is on that shelf. It changed the dynamics of my medi-spa clinic dramatically. Recommending retail products is doing your job professionally and ethically. You’re doing it with your core values in mind because you’re looking after your client and having their best interests at heart. To be ethical, to be knowledgeable, to be passionate and to not recommend a professional product to your client, you are doing such an injustice, that you really do then have to think about where your position lies in the industry. Product and services, they’re together. There’s no more separation. There can’t be. Also find out what motivates your staff. I presumed it was money, but it’s not at all. Get into your staff ’s mindset and try to imagine what they’re thinking. Getting them motivated is usually just being on their level. Remember that knowledge is power. If the therapist has knowledge, they have the power. If you as a therapist don’t know what you’re selling, and you don’t know what the top three active ingredients are and what they do and how they benefit the client, the client can see straight through you. They will not trust you, and the answer will be no.” Kellie: “As therapists, we get so hands-on. We’re doing a treatment, we’re really making sure that we give our clients incredible service, but we’ve got to keep talking to them, making sure that we’re giving them exactly what they want and giving them the information. That information is about the product they need at home, to continually get the result that we’re working towards. Often, we have to keep talking to the client so we know what it is that they’re after as well. We think we know sometimes, but sometimes we don’t because we forget to ask. So, I keep talking to my clients and that results in other products that I can give to them to use at home to get the results that they want.” Clare: “It’s something like 500 hours between monthly salon appointments. I tell my clients, ‘You’ve got your skin at home much longer than I’ve got your skin’. There can be, for therapists, a bit of intimidation around the concept of selling a product. If you as a therapist are coming from a place of love and care, you have that duty of care to be recommending in a comfortable way, with

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

INDUSTRY ROUNDTABLE

a client who knows, likes and trusts you. Selling them the skincare products that are going to help them correct their concern. If you love that client and you want the best for them, why wouldn’t you be recommending products that are going to help them and deliver amazing results for them? It’s the culture you create of your business. Education can really come down to that, too. Is a therapist struggling because she just doesn’t understand the product? Is it being prescribed it in the right way? What are her obstacles that she’s facing to get over? How can we seek the support of our suppliers to help overcome that? Once you address that, it’s almost like a burden is lifted off the therapist’s shoulders, and you see them blossom. It’s really lovely as a salon owner to see your staff feeling comfortable and re-loving what they do again.” Sue: “Therapists get very scared of rejection. It’s that fear which stops the therapist from recommending products. From their initial training there should be some sort of retail focus, because they come into the salons with no real idea of what they’re doing. They’ve got salon owners telling them you have to sell. I’ve had therapists say they just don’t know how to do it. It’s as simple as that. You have to find a way to motivate the therapist. Find about what they’re scared of. When I ask the question, there’s a lot of different reasons.

You’d be surprised at what I’ve been told over the years. You’ve got to find out what motivates them and what scares them. The answers really are amazing.” James: “Therapists forget their client trusts them. It’s the relationship they have with them - it’s relationship selling. They come to the therapist to get advice. That’s the unique opportunity that a therapist has. We have to mentor staff. It’s not something that comes naturally. It comes from the salon owners - what they do themselves very much flows through their whole team. Leading by example is the best thing that you can do in your salon to help motivate staff. They need the tools. As a supplier, we can provide some of those. But, it’s not an easy task, for someone to overcome their fears of recommending retail products. We’ve got to remind our staff they are empowered. It’s also sharing the accountability. You might be better off to set some goals which associate to the whole team. Share with the team what your percentage of your retail business is and then the goal. If you’re trying to get from five perfect to 10 percent, share that number and take the burden of responsibility as a whole team and not just as one individual being picked out. Create an environment where it’s all of you as a team. Find out how you can motivate each other.”

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RETAIL SALES

QUESTION - What strategies can be actioned to boost a salon’s level of retail sales? For example, seasonal promotions, ﬁrst time deals, complimentary sample size products, and how can collaboration with a supplier best optimise these opportunities?

Karen Wilkin-Donachie (Ultraceuticals) and Glenn Silburn (Professional Beauty).

LEARNING - TARGETED SAMPLING OR VALUE ADDING ARE THE BEST WAYS TO ENCOURAGE A CLIENT TO INVEST IN RETAIL PRODUCTS. Clare: “Clients look forward to variation in the marketing calendar you’re providing in the salon. Whether it’s a seasonal treatment or a seasonal product change it’s really important in this landscape Beauty on Latrobe’s Clare Lamberth and Karen Wilkin-Donachie.

Pauline Valle (Ultraderm) and Tanya Ahmed (Sharkra Medi Spa).

salon, it’s an effective ice breaker. The client probably will ask you a question about it, but also, as the therapist or staff member, you know it feels like. “ to keep clients entertained. Seasonal promotions offer that entertainment. Samples are also a unique way to engage the client. It’s like you’re saying, ‘I really do care about you, your skin, and your results. Here, please take this with our compliments to go away and try.’ It creates that salon experience for them at home.” Jay: “It’s your job to make recommendations to your client, and if you want to make it more comfortable for yourself and your team to start that conversation, try sampling. It works. It’s been proven for years, and years, and years, and it’s very underestimated. One common excuse or objection I get is that the company doesn’t make samples, or the sample sizes are expensive to purchase. Make your own and get over the cost because it absolutely works. When you give a client a sample that’s specific to their needs, you engage them and educate them. The chance of them coming back and purchasing that product off you is astronomical. If you’re offering a facial service and the client was to buy one or two products, the client could potentially use 10 products. It’s about giving them a sample of the ones they didn’t necessarily buy that day, or that weren’t in their budget to buy that day. But it has to have a correlation between the service you’re offering and the product that could support that to take home.” James: “One of the things that both suppliers and owners can do is encourage our staff to use the products and to wear the products. I can’t stress enough, if you wear your Blinc Mascara, or put the new latest nail polish colour on your fingers, when a client comes into the

Karen: “Very targeted sampling can work. What I’ve seen work well for a new guest is having a system of products packaged together with some value. This encourages the therapist to feel conﬁdent to recommend a full regime, and also encourages the consumer to invest in a full regime because they’re getting some added value. The system packages are good in the retail area when you have a therapist not recommending, and sometimes a very active guest who’s so interested in a regime, even if they weren’t given a recommendation, they’re looking to buy something to take home and use. Ideally it happens more from the point of view that the therapist is recommending the regime. A very targeted sample works. Just throwing samples in a bag doesn’t work at all. You might as well throw them down the drain. I’m not big on discounting services, however, so I would say put the value in a regime, so that they can get the full experience as well.” Pauline: “Samples are very, very important. But when you give that sample, you must follow up and see how they like that sample, or else it will fall to the bottom of their bag, get lost, given away, whatever. Keeping track of that sample, because we supply samples that are expensive from the company’s point of view, but they are an extremely valuable tool to be used within the salon and they do work.” Sarah: “Clients love to get a little gift with purchase or a little sample to take home, and then they’re remembering the salon. If they try it and like it, they’re going to go back and support the salon they go to.”

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

INDUSTRY ROUNDTABLE

QUESTION - Consumer demand for more tailored and personalised beauty products is impacting every aspect of product development from packaging through to formulation and beyond. Should retailers be doing more to enhance the user experience and how can technology make this possible? LEARNING - PERSONALISATION, RATHER THAN A ONE SIZE FITS ALL, HAS ALWAYS BEEN FUNDAMENTAL TO THE VERY ORIGINS OF THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY. James: “One of the things we’ve seen over the last four or five years is a real push towards consumers being far more aware of the ingredients that are in their products. All the modern forms of communication enable consumers to tell brands very quickly whether or not the ingredients that are in the products are formulated correctly and whether they’re PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) friendly. Brands have to look at the way that trends are developing and it’s important with retailing to be aware of those trends. From a supplier point of view, they have to be innovative and develop products to fit into that area. What we’ve seen in nails, for instance, is gels used to always be put under a light. Everybody loved the longevity of them, but the evolution of the product, like with OPI Infinite Shine for example, is that there are now gel hybrids where you can almost get the same length of time out of a non-light cured product. Where will the industry be in three or four years’ time? As salon owners and as suppliers we have to keep looking forward to what is that innovation and how we do change the services that we provide.” Kellie: “You have to get savvier with the products that you’ve got, as well and be able to put products together to be able to deliver a service. You may not always have exactly what you need, but as long as you know what you’re using, then you’ll be able to give your client what they need. Get creative. Use your product properly. Don’t just go, ‘All right, well that’s for that. And that’s for that.’ Know what they do, put them together, and make it work for the client. You’ve got to get to know your clients when they come in. Get to have a relationship with them. Know what they like, what they don’t like, and keep notes. It might be a month, two months before you seen them again, and if you haven’t made some notes and are really focused on what they want, then you’ve almost lost them. “ Clare: “You have to be able to offer bespoke services to your customers and your clients. When you’re doing a facial, you need to be to customise it to suit the client’s needs and their skin type. Just because they’ve looked for a particular service doesn’t mean that’s going to suit them on that day. As a business owner, and as a therapist, you need to be flexible enough with the brands you stock, and be able to change it up. Offering something that’s really unique and special, tailored specifically to your customer, is really important. The customer really appreciates that you’ve taken them as a person and their skin into consideration and delivered them the best result.” Sue: “Education is very important when it comes to treatments. The worst thing any therapist can do is have all the products already lined up when the client walks into the room. A client may booked in for particular facial, but you should be able to assess your client on an individual basis. You’ve got to adapt to treat the person that

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you’re dealing with. There cannot be one standard training anymore. You’ve got to reassess what type of therapists you’ve got, and what the demographics of the clientele are, so that you can adapt. Everybody learns in a different way, too. Some people are very visual. Some people are more sort of touchy-feely. That’s the benefit of proper training. “ Tanya: “If you don’t see your supplier being innovative, moving forward, and really taking on board global trends, then you’re kind of thinking, ‘Well, you’re a bit boring. I’m done with you.’ Rebranding and repackaging is great and something that salon owners do in our mini spas and in our salons. We renovate and we re-invest. Clients love seeing that although they’re spending their money with us, we’re updating and improving our salon accordingly. One thing that my clients always say to me is: ‘Tanya, you love your toys,’ and I do. Beauty toys are my favourite. Whether it’s a laser or light therapy or a new serum, there are just all these toys everywhere. You’ve got to be that person of innovation. I don’t know percentages, but I would imagine one of the most common reasons that clients will leave your salon is through boredom and not getting the results that they want. If you’re not innovative, if you’re not exciting, and if you’re not delivering the results, see you later.” Jay: “The client shouldn’t have to wait to come into the clinic or spa to be able to be kept up-to-date with what’s new, what’s changed, what’s different. That’s where social media comes into play. I’ve always said there are two types of people. There are those who embrace social media and having that touch with the client and there are those who don’t and they get left behind, unfortunately. It’s not a choice anymore. You can either go with the trends and get on social media, because it’s so important to keep your client up-to-date with what’s happening in the spa or clinic, so that you don’t have to fill them in all in that short space that you’ve got to spend with them. We need to be touching clients in between, feeding them bitesized pieces of information of what’s happening in the spa or clinic between treatments.” Karen: “One area technology could come into play would be in consultation. One of the things we’re exploring is bringing our consultation onto a mobile device so that the guests could then receive a copy of the prescription. That would be the service as well as the product recommendations. That is where you need to really customise, because too often clinics and salons can be led by very menu driven choices for guests, whereas most of the time they really just need to be sat down and consulted. They almost don’t need to see the menu, frankly. It’s more about ‘What do I need to make my skin the optimal it can be, and what does that look like as far as a home care plan, as far as a treatment plan, and what do I do when?’ Clients want to be guided, so if we can hone in on that, we’d have very happy guests who have direction and who would be returning. The other really important point on home care is the correlation between people who purchase home care and their tendency to return. If a client takes home one product or two products, their retention rate is usually around 80 percent. If they don’t take any products whatsoever, it’s about 50 percent or less. If we’re going to drill into the customisation and the personalisation, it comes down to really treating that person as an individual, which you’re intent to help deeply with having the best skin they can have. When people feel that, they come back over and over again.”

Maximise your retail capability Karen Wilkin-Donachie, CEO Ultraceuticals The design of the retail area is often an opportunity. What I most commonly find is there are great opportunities to educate salon and clinic owners on the power of retailing, which starts with laying out the space. Where do you put your reception desk? Where do you place your retail fixtures? Where is the primary real estate for the consumer to be most attracted to when they walk in the door? If you’re in a location with walk-by traffic, it is best to design the space so it supports the natural behaviour of a consumer.

Partnering with entrepreneurs to help them succeed has been the foundation of success for Ultraceuticals and a continued major focus in helping build and empower businesses with strong education, training and retail skills. Ultraceuticals highlights some key retail insights to help their valued salons achieve ongoing success. • It’s crucial the salon believes in the philosophy and performance of the product they’re selling to their customers to further promote a confident and effective selling experience for both parties. • The design of your retail space, the presentation of your product and brand promotional calendars must all be considered. • Find out what motivates your staff and what they are fearful of. The right product training will ensure staff are empowered and excited to professionally recommend the right product in order to give clients their best results. • Targeted sampling or value adding are the best ways to encourage a client to invest in retail products. • Personalisation, rather than a one size fits all, has always been fundamental to the very origins of the beauty industry. This also provides more personal customer engagement on the brand. • Continue to be open-minded, with new technologies and the new opportunities, but stay true to your roots.

web: www.ultraceuticals.com email: advice@ultraceuticals.com

Clare Lamberth, Beauty on Latrobe A number of strategies can be actioned to boost a salon’s level of retails sales. Clients look forward to variation in the brand marketing calendar you're providing in the salon. Whether it’s a seasonal treatment or a seasonal product change, it's really important in this landscape to keep clients entertained and engaged. Samples are also a unique way to excite the client. It creates that salon experience for them at home.

AU: 1800 355 890 NZ: 0800 445 684

INDUSTRY ROUNDTABLE

QUESTION - How does a professional beauty brand get a sense of solidity when inﬂuencing factors continue to change so rapidly, from the target market right through to the retail landscape to the competition and the methods of communicating? LEARNING - CONTINUE TO BE OPEN-MINDED, WITH NEW TECHNOLOGIES AND THE NEW OPPORTUNITIES, BUT STAY TRUE TO YOUR ROOTS.

Tanya: “Nothing’s really going to beat that personal touch. An online click may be an instant gratiﬁcation for that second, but they will come to the salon because there will some element that they may or may not be happy with, because they desire the human touch. That is the core of our business. We’re one of the last few industries, we’re so lucky, we get to touch people. You can’t even give a child a hug when they fall over in the playground anymore. We do a lot more than hugging, and we are one of the last true care providers in a non-kind of orthodox sense. It’s important we don’t lose sight of that. At the end of the day, you and your client one-onone, nothing will ever beat that.”

Pauline: “We need to stay at the forefront of trends, so we always research the overseas market. We have a look to see what they’re offering to their clients. We go to Lights, camera, action. chemistry symposiums. Our customer is savvy and they want to know what is coming up next. Back in 2015, we saw there was going to be a change in our microbeads in our face polish. They were polyethylene. We jumped ahead of schedule and time and we introduced the wood pulp, which was biodegradable, which was going to be introduced in Australia in 2017. As a company we’re constantly working at making sure we’re up-to-date with trends, and we have to research the global market to do that. We then can bring it to the salons and they can then bring it to their clients.” James: “I can never undersell the importance of the therapist or the manicurist and how much they’re in touch with their client, and what they prescribe or what they say is what their client will listen to. How you do it, you can use whatever means it is that you wish, and you need to be innovative, but don’t ever lose the reason why you came into this industry. That’s one of the great Jay Chapman and Sarah Austin. things about the people in the industry, we want to make people feel good, get results and meet their expectations. We’re very different than some other industries that are just push, push, push, sell, sell, sell. We’re very much about a holistic approach and you’ve always got to stay true to that core belief.” Clare: “As a business it’s an organic thing. It’s constantly changing and evolving. The industry is, our businesses are, and our clientele and their knowledge is as well. It’s really important for any business to adapt to suit their clientele, whether that is brands, treatments, or the combinations of the different services you offer.” Sarah: “When it comes down to it, we’re usually working one-onone and once we make that connection with that person, they are happy and confident in purchasing off you and continuing to come back into the future. “

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Sue: “I’m big about the therapists having enough confidence because a lot of the staff coming through nowadays are young. If you can empower them to still have the knowledge but also have the confidence to do a consultation, keep that personal contact, that’s what we are all about. This industry is about the touch. It’s important to not forget that. There are a lot of new things that come on the market, but they’re not necessarily better. Sometimes the older stuff, the most down-to-earth stuff is the best. It’s about getting back to basics.” Jay: “It’s about meeting their needs, so the client knows they’re booked in for a certain service, but also exceeding their expectations by putting something on the table they may not have ever thought of. We’re the experts. We take for granted how much we know about the beauty industry. It’s about being in tune to what that client wants, and instead of just delivering our message, listening more by asking better quality questions, and delivering on that.” n

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A World of DIFFERENCE Advanced Cosmeceuticals managing director Catherine Biedermann explains why innovation is crucial to success.

When and why was Advanced Cosmeceuticals established? Advanced Cosmeceuticals was established 11 years ago when we purchased the distribution rights for SkinCeuticals. We recognised the potential of this exceptional brand and how it was a pioneer in the cosmeceutical landscape. The distributor was looking at retirement and offered the business for sale, when SkinCeuticals was one of only a few cosmeceutical brands with an esteemed reputation and proven results.

How has the business grown and changed since then? Based on the success of SkinCeuticals, we decided to research other interesting new cosmeceutical brands. We have always been clear of our expectations of what the manufacturer and their brand/products must offer. For a brand to become part of the Advanced Cosmeceuticals portfolio, they need to provide results-driven clinical evidence, in-house research and development facilities, work with the latest technology and be an innovator in the industry. After review and consideration of many brands, we decided to take on UK-based brand Medik8. We are glad we did - Medik8 is now our number one brand. Mesoestetic and DNA Renewal followed, offering a unique point of difference in catering to the advanced salons and medical clinics. The latest brand addition has been Lycogel, a breathable camouflage makeup brand that was developed to use post-laser, or following more invasive skincare treatments. In 2014 we launched our medical laser division. Lutronic, a Korean-based manufacturer of high-end laser and non-laser

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devices, offered us the opportunity to be their distributor after we achieved strong sales with their LED device, Healite II, which weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been selling for the past five years. We now have a comprehensive portfolio of performancebased cosmeceutical skincare brands that have a clearly identified positioning in the market, supported by a range of the most technologically advanced laser and non-laser devices. The growth in the number of brands under the Advanced Cosmeceuticals banner led us to move in 2011 as the company had outgrown the old premises in terms of office and warehouse space. The new space is much nicer and more contemporary, with better facilities including a training room.

What is the businessâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s key focus today? We have had strong growth over the last few years and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to consolidate, fine-tune and strengthen each division in our company. We are looking at recruiting some new and experienced people to support our current team and help us take Advanced Cosmeceuticals to the next level. We are a company that has always been committed to working with brands that are at the forefront of evolving trends, science, technology and innovation. Due to this philosophy, we adopt very strict guidelines and conduct thorough research when we choose the brands we would like to represent. This philosophy is still very much the core of our company as we continue looking at new brands and technologies, and deciding if they fit into our portfolio.

Advanced Cosmeceuticals distributes a large number of cosmeceutical brands. How do you differ from other distributors/brands in the industry? We only work with manufacturers that can provide results-driven clinical evidence of efficacy, exhibit a strong commitment to research, adopt the latest technology and are positioned as an innovator in the industry. Our ability to provide partners/accounts with a strong portfolio of cosmeceutical skincare, as well as leading equipment and technology (all of which are customised to suit the individual practice) definitely makes us an appealing option for many clinics and practices who prefer to deal with one reputable supplier. Working with laser devices has also resulted in us developing a strong after-sales support network providing comprehensive training, and responding quickly

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to any challenges the client may have. With expert technicians on-hand our clients also know they are fully supported at all times. Not only are we able to provide integrated solutions to medical and skincare professionals as an allencompassing company, our BDMs understand and can educate our partners about how our skincare brands and devices work together to provide the most efficacious outcomes for their patients and their business. Our team of highly qualified and experienced BDMs and trainers, who themselves receive constant, ongoing training, is one of our key assets. Our clients also appreciate they receive support at every level from head office, marketing, their BDM to our sales support network. The advantage that Advanced Cosmeceuticals has to offer is that we are big enough to be able to provide integrated business solutions for all salons, clinics and practices but we do so with a customised and personalised approach.

What have been the biggest changes you have seen in the industry since the business started? Over the last decade or so, many new cosmeceutical brands have entered the market, some with very good clinical support, others taking advantage of the new trend. Australian-made cosmeceutical brands have entered the market over the last few years and imported brands have become available online. This has affected most distributors of US or European brands who had a monopoly in the cosmeceutical field. The result: prices dropped and margins increased with professionals and consumers alike benefiting from these changes. The rise of devices has resulted in consumers pursuing more non-invasive procedures as an enhancement option. Consumers are becoming more and more educated in this arena with more information available about what treatment would be right for their concern and there seems to be a big swing towards non-invasive treatments with minimal downtime. The development of aesthetic devices is seeing a more integrated skincare approach with cosmeceutical brands developing products that work with devices to further enhance their efficacy. Skincare brands and device companies are recognising the synergistic benefits with products also assisting with the post-treatment, healing process. Devices are also becoming multifunction workhorses within practices allowing a variety of treatments to be performed on patients and economies of scale for the practitioner.

What do you think are the biggest opportunities in the industry in the next few years? The evolution of more sophisticated technology in products and devices, which are more clinical and medical in their approach. The aesthetics industry is becoming increasingly accountable to produce high performing products and devices that have proven results. Consumers want results over feel-good purchases and with the access to so much information comes a level of expectation that they should rightly have. Consumers understand the benefit that treatments are able to deliver and are not afraid to commit to a homecare regime that is more than cleanse and moisturise, so long as they see results.

What do you think are the biggest challenges facing the industry in the next few years? Consumer behavior and the ability to purchase more and more skincare online. Access to a wealth of information has resulted in discerning, well-researched and prudent consumers so pretty packaging, brand names, celebrity endorsements and general claims play a far less significant role in purchasing decisions for the demographic that are seeking results-driven, high-performing skincare that is also at a higher price point. The challenge for salons, spas and clinics is also in providing technology to meet consumer demand for non-or minimally invasive procedures. Businesses need to ensure they have technology that is right for their clients without over-capitalising.

What are Advanced Cosmeceuticalsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; plans for the future? Our plans are to continue focusing on our areas of strength which for the past 11 years have given us a unique point of difference. This includes servicing and supporting our clients at the highest level, fostering and strengthening our relationships. It also means keeping abreast of the latest technologies in skincare and equipment so that we can ensure our clients benefit from these advancements. We will also continue to ensure our clients have access to the wealth of knowledge and expertise of our international speakers that visit Australia for workshops and conferences. We will continue investing in our company and our team, ensuring our business development managers and product trainers are highly qualified and receive ongoing training, education and support, keeping us at the forefront of the industry. Finally, our plan is to continue to grow our portfolio with brands that are in line with the Advanced Cosmeceuticals philosophy, offering our clients an even more comprehensive service. n Contact Advanced Cosmeceuticals on 1800 242Â 011 or visit www.advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

BUSINESS

The many minds of

EVE

WOMEN AND MEN are different; that’s obvious. But it’s the minutiae that counts. As Faith Popcorn famously put it, “they’re as different shop-ologically as they are biologically.” With that simple statement in 2000, the world awoke to a savvy marketers’ golden opportunity. When the renowned author and futurist’s third ground-breaking book was published, it threw a spotlight on the need for gender-specific marketing. Even today, the book’s basic logic remains valid: “Women are different and they have money. So what do I do?” As consumers, women have evolved faster and more powerfully than men. They’re responsible for up to nine out of every ten spending decisions, yet for decades, the marketing of most big-name brands has been driven by men, using male-drawn stereotypes and top-level decisions. Logically, given the gender differences, that was always unlikely to work. And yet, many of those stereotypes remain.

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In the second of a series of articles on the science of female shopping, Neil Osborne explains how women are as different psychologically as they are biologically from men, which directly affects their ‘how’ and ‘why’ of shopping.

The marketing rules they’re built on are rooted in a corporate era when women weren’t economically powerful, unlike now. A man might well say there’s nothing really wrong with that, except for one thing. Most men don’t understand women. “EVEolution,” as Popcorn’s book was called, heralded a change. At the time, women across the globe thanked Ms Popcorn for publically pointing out that “Women process information differently. Women articulate their feelings more easily, and see themselves as links, not loners. Men do one thing at a time, while women do many things at the same time.” And importantly, as I’ve found out first-hand, “if she has to ask you to do something, it’s already too late.” Let’s see if we can change that, just a little…

PART TWO: Females Think Differently Are the genders really different? In some contexts, that’s a fair question. Much time and effort was spent during the 60s, 70s, and 80s, insisting we were the same. Those cries, from women’s liberationists, were driven by an effort to break the conventional wisdom of the day – that men were workers and providers and women were the nurturers. And thanks to those feminists new doors have since opened.

BUSINESS

GENDER IS THE MOST POWERFUL DETERMINANT OF HOW A PERSON VIEWS THE WORLD, AND EVERYTHING IN IT. IT’S MORE POWERFUL THAN AGE, INCOME, RACE OR GEOGRAPHY. However, to successfully market to women, it’s not enough to just understand they’re as capable and intelligent as men. Or that they’re the principal shoppers and influencers. You need to recognise the nuanced differences and see them for what they are – opportunities – that are wide open for commercial success stories to be born. Gender is the most powerful determinant of how a person views the world, and everything in it. It’s more powerful than age, income, race or geography. However, we mostly ignore biological differences when examining our customer base, mainly because we’ve never been taught about them. And I’m sorry, but being a female doesn’t automatically give you a golden ticket to success. Most women have either been taught or have absorbed that same conventional business wisdom men originally created. According to Bec Brideson, author of “Blind Spots,” and a pioneer and innovator in the marketing-to-women space in Australia: “Those marketers who grew up with Phillip Kotler’s take on market segmentation were taught to see gender as a ‘lo-val’ subset of demographics. Marketing-to-women (M2W), today, is way more valuable and important than that. M2W is not some ‘niche’ – it’s mainstream. But don’t be fooled into thinking M2W is only about ‘for women only’ products and services. And that gender statements are the only way to attract the loyal and lucrative female audience. It is my belief almost every brand and product category can benefit from a M2W leverage point and an appeal to women. You just need to know how, where, and why to build one.” So why haven’t more brands done it?

The metamorphosis begins In 1982 Rena Bartos, then senior VP at the advertising agency J. Walter Thompson, and a pioneering qualitative researcher, noticed something. Her ground-breaking insights captured the idea that a new woman was emerging – albeit in a nascent stage compared to today – and she called her, ‘The Moving Target’. In her book by the same name, she dubbed the American woman’s metamorphosis as a ‘quiet revolution,’ with lasting implications for career, family, society and more. She said, “Women have moved from defining themselves in terms of derived status. They are moving towards wanting a sense of personal identity beyond those private domestic roles.” That ‘moving target’ profile depicted a person who was different to the accepted gender stereotype of a wife at home, with kids. Instead, this woman worked, she had money and she had growing power. Fast forward a few decades, and Bartos’ initial profile has reinvented itself many times over. Yet the stereotypes of females haven’t kept pace. Nor has the gender-specific knowledge of brands and businesses. Thankfully, science has. It’s even captured hard data that proves what women have always known – that they’re different to men – and shouldn’t be thought of or approached, in the same way. So let’s throw out everything we ‘think’ we know and start afresh.

Differences defined Literally thousands of studies across anthropology, biochemistry, neuroscience, human development, psychology and sociolinguistics have proven there

are differences, in many areas other than just reproduction. Boiling it down, each gender has its own set of attitudes, abilities, priorities and preferences, which impacts their behaviour ,both inside and out, of shops. It’s almost as if we’re living in our own gender-specific realities. Most consumer-driven brands and businesses need to master an understanding of the gender differences, and how female psychology works. Why? Because women are the driving force of the global economy. And when it comes to spending, women are the sex determining if a brand lives or dies. Faith Popcorn said of the differences: “Companies think they’re marketing to women – but they’re not. They’re not talking to women. They don’t know how to talk to women. They really don’t understand that women have a separate language and a separate way of being.” Roll forward a few years and Marti Barletta noted in her book, “Marketing to Women,” how women make purchasing decisions in a different way to men. “Men and women don’t communicate in the same way, and they don’t buy for the same reasons,” she stresses. “He simply wants

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

BUSINESS

the transaction to take place. She’s interested in creating a relationship. Every place women go they make connections … 91 per cent of women say ‘advertisers don’t understand us’.”

The gender realities So, what are the gender-specific differences? They come down to evolution, biology, and brains.

1. Evolutionary survival instincts Men’s survival strategy is to make the maximum number of kids. For women, it’s helping the kids she has, to survive. Men focus on targets (tracking and hunting), have strong spatial skills (sizing up and killing) and navigation (getting home) abilities. That’s translated into men still enjoying challenge, rewards and competition. Meanwhile, females needed survival savvy – the ability to collaborate with neighbours, share resources and a selfless drive to nurture the young to maturity. Those habits have embedded patience, relationship building and gatekeeping skills in today’s women.

2. Biological differences The male hormone, testosterone, is the main driver of personality characteristics like aggressiveness, self-assertiveness, dominance, competitiveness, risk-taking and thrill-seeking. It also drives a number of male-linked aptitudes normally thought to be learned – spatial, mechanical and maths abilities. The key female hormone, estrogen, encourages nesting and nurturing, while it supresses the dominant effects of testosterone. That’s why mature women are more assertive as customers, once their estrogen levels drop.

WOMEN ARE PEOPLEFOCUSED, THAT’S WELL KNOWN. BUT WHY? IT SEEMS THEIR BRAINS RECOGNISE THEM MORE STRONGLY. IN STUDIES WHERE MALE AND FEMALE PARTICIPANTS WERE SIMULTANEOUSLY SHOWN AN OBJECT (ONE EYE) AND A PERSON (OTHER EYE), THE FEMALES MORE FREQUENTLY REPORTED SEEING THE ‘PERSON,’ WHILE MALES SAW THE ‘OBJECT.’ 96

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3. Brain wiring Now we’re down to the nitty-gritty. Male brain usage is more localised to the right side and they’re highly efficient at focussing, whereas female usage is distributed across both sides, with better connections and integration. This accounts for a women’s ability to multitask and think holistically, preferring to view each interaction in context, as part of a bigger picture. It may also account for their legendary intuition, by being able to pull together details from separate and disparate sources – sight, speech and emotions – and emerge with a conclusion. Both the emotional bonding and memory centres are bigger in females, accounting for their relationship skills and uncanny ability to remember every word of an argument or special event.

Minutiae of a woman It’s these tiny biological, evolutionary and brain differences that play out when each of us interacts, talks, listens, thinks and responds. First, we both see things differently. Literally. In the words of Marti Barletta, “Men are better at focused, sharp vison (think spotlight), while women have better peripheral vision (think floodlight).” Of the four remaining senses, women’s responses are more acute and detect subtleties missed by most men. They’re more sensitive to odour and fragrance, and prefer sounds about half as loud as men. Next, there’s the emotional stuff. Women experience the entire range of emotions with greater intensity and more volatility than men, and they express them more often. They also have tighter connections between their emotional and verbal centres, so women articulate their emotions better and empathise more strongly with others. This one is no surprise. Generally speaking, women are better at ‘social perception’ than men. Study after study highlights that men only notice and care about the big important things, while women notice and care about the both the big things and the small details. Because they have greater brain

usage, women pick up and absorb nuances missed by men and they’re more sensitive to interpersonal details such as tone of voice, facial expressions and body language. In short, women are into details. They notice, care about, and act on all the same things as men… amplified, times ten.

Holistic people-focused responses Women are people-focused, that’s well known. But why? It seems their brains recognise them more strongly. In studies where male and female participants were simultaneously shown an object (one eye) and a person (other eye), the females more frequently reported seeing the ‘person,’ while males saw the ‘object.’ And how do women make decisions? Psychologists found that women think more contextually and holistically, placing things in relation to one another (as they do with people) and integrating them into a bigger picture – a whole. That said, women have difficulty separating things from their context or background, and can take extra time in decision making when buying – in order to find the ‘perfect answer.’ A woman’s spiralling buying pattern, (unlike a man’s linear one that searches for a ‘good solution’) has her adding options into the buying selection criteria along the way – not discarding them, as men do. These additions cause her to return to the initial stages of the pattern to further sort, refine and progress. This can happen multiple times…all in the search for ‘perfect.’ It’s frustrating for men to witness, but it makes perfect sense to every woman. Marti Barletta simplified this trait by saying that, “men are the analysts (they take things apart), and women are the synthesisers (they put things together).”

New Year. New Salon Software.

Where to start? As you can see, it’s the small details that make the difference when you’re maximising the Female Economy opportunity. But with so much to cover, it can be overwhelming, even for women. Faith Popcorn codified her “EVEolution” ideas into the Eight Truths of Marketing to Women: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Connecting female consumers to each other connects them to your brand. If you’re marketing to one of her lives, you’re missing all the others. If she has to ask, it’s too late. Market to her peripheral visions, and she will see you in a whole new light. Walk, run, go to her; secure her loyalty forever. This generation of women consumers will lead you to the next. Co-parenting is the best way to raise a brand. Everything matters – you can’t hide behind your logo.

Women we see you Some may think that gender-specific marketing is sexist. It’s not. It’s smart. In his book, “Why We Buy: The Science of Shopping,” retail expert Paco Underhill makes this point with a simple story. A man and woman go shopping in a hardware store. They need a hammer. While the man is buying a hammer, the woman is buying a living-room wall, covered in memories. What’s the story mean? It’s a wake-up call to reconsider what you’re doing to talk to, delight, and keep your female customers. n Neil Osborne is an elite sales trainer and brand coach who has devoted more than 30 years of his working life to the salon industry. He has been responsible for dramatically growing brands and businesses by helping them launch, develop and change their sales results with his salon-specific, results driven methods. Contact him at The SALES CATALYST, 1300 302 859 or go to www.thesalescatalyst.com.au

Reinvent your front counter. Learn more: gettimely.com

BUSINESS

Meet, train,

ELEVATE

I hear you! You don’t have time to train your team, but… you have to MAKE time. Unless you invest the time today to train your team to be a cut above the rest, you’ll slip behind. By training them up, you’ll build a successful salon that delivers the rewards you deserve. By Marie Drever. AS A SALON owner, you have so many competing demands. Yet, to have a thriving salon or spa, you need to keep all the balls in the air. A big part of that is teaching, training and guiding your team to be the best version of themselves. Great teams are founded on two things: truth and training. Start working on my four must-do meeting and training approaches every salon owner should be putting into practice. Soon you’ll find your team is freshly focused, productive and motivated to help you reach your business goals.

1. Schedule weekly meetings Regular weekly meetings will change the way your team works. If you do nothing else, this routine alone will set you up for an ultra-organised salon where everyone understands your expectations. The key is scheduling. Block out time for weekly meetings in your salon, for example, first thing every Friday morning for 20 minutes, before the first clients walk through the door. All you need is that 20 minutes – make it fun and meaningful, and prepare an agenda so everyone knows you mean business. Choose one topic to focus on, have some relevant notes handy and print some engaging hand-outs ahead of time. Consider asking your team to take turns conducting part of the meeting. Tell your team how much you value their participation and input. Tell them again. Spotlight team members who have been stepping up. Be generous. Be specific. Praise all wins, big or small, and your team will feel appreciated and valued. Set the scene: at your first weekly meeting explain your goals and expectations and run through your new monthly training plan (see #4 below).

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When you’re done, pin up the meeting’s minutes in the lunchroom for all to see. If you’re worried about running out of discussion topics, browse these ideas: the latest facial your offering, prep/plan for an upcoming Saturday bridal party booking, Easter hours, planning a VIP event in your salon, team uniforms, targets, sales reports, product information, upcoming promotions, new marketing prom, how to handle complaints. That will keep you going for a while. Now get cracking!

2. Lock-in one-to-one meetings Each week, give each of your team members 15 minutes of your clear and undivided attention. You’ll be astonished by what unfolds. For best results, escape your salon or spa to chat in a nearby café. The four-dollar coffee is a wise investment in your team member (and your business). Kick-off your one-to-one meeting with an open question: How can I help you? What are you working on at the moment? Use the opportunity to discuss issues and reinforce your expectations, especially the three Rs: Requests, Retailing, Rebookings. Employees want (and need) direction. They look to you as leader to provide clarity and boundaries. For top results, follow my meeting rules: • Don’t presume anything. Find out. • Listen. • Agree on a plan and a time-frame. • Praise growth, no matter how small. • Continue one-to-ones, even when it seems you have nothing to discuss. • Keep notes so you know where you left off.

3. Line up morning strategy meetings Plan and organise the day before it gets away from you. Use the time to set priorities, focus energy and ensure everyone is working towards the same goals, today. Agree on expected outcomes for the day, such as: • Individual KPIs, collective targets and plans to reach them • Promotions • Future events in salon • A new service or product to mention to clients. By rocking a morning strategy session, you can change your day and easily

BUSINESS

turn its column from $300 to $700. Multiply that across your team, and you’re winning big-time!

4. Map out monthly training In the diary, block out once-a-month dates for team training. For example, the third Thursday of each month from 1-3pm. Not just this month – every month from January right through to December, a whole year in advance. That’s right! Training your team takes year-round planning and consistency. Allocate training topics to your dates and you’ve created your salon or spa’s training calendar. Print out a copy for every team member and pin one on the wall. Need some topic inspiration? Try these: • Four sessions on product knowledge, with your skin or product companies on board • Five sessions on stand-outs (you already know what ‘awesome’ is; let’s not let it slip) • Advanced skin treatments • Your salon culture • Skin analysis • Ageing skin • Client care and comfort during a massage • Prepping a treatment room • Laser and/or injectables update

Monthly training is all about sharing the load. Invite your team members to take turns sharing their knowledge, skills and professional techniques with the whole team. You’ll learn amazing things from one another. And you’re encouraging your team to take ownership of their role – an incredibly powerful driver of culture in your business. Oprah Winfrey said it best: “I think education is power. I think that being able to communicate with people is power. One of my main goals on the planet is to encourage people to empower themselves.” You owe it to your team, to your business and to yourself to make meetings and training sessions mandatory for your team. Think of it this way: just one hour of meeting time each week accumulates to 52 solid hours of training and engagement over a 12-month period. Imagine the difference that could make to your salon or spa business! n For more salon wisdom email ZING Coach Marie Drever marie@zingcoach.com.au or visit www.zincoach.com.au

elleebana ?

Why train with OTTO MITTER: ABIA’S 2017 EDUCATOR

OF THE

YEAR

ELLEEBANA ARE INDUSTRY LEADERS IN EYELASH ENHANCEMENT PRODUCTS AND TRAINING. We are an Australian company that exports products and training programs to over 40 countries worldwide and have been setting the standards in the industry for over 22 years working with Australia’s most respected beauty wholesalers, training colleges and organisations. We pride ourselves in delivering beauty professionals the most revised and up to date training available. We understand that our industry is growing at a rapid rate and we all need to be providing clients the highest standards in treatments and knowledge. Our affiliations with the world’s leading beauty masters and educators, ensures we stay up to date with the latest techniques and trends in the beauty industry. Our courses, manuals and workshops will give you the skills to successfully offer these services in your salon at the highest possible standards. Our globally recognised training, yet personal approach allows us to deliver outstanding continued support and assistance even after you have completed your training. We offer both in-salon training and hands on classes at some of Australia’s leading beauty and hair wholesalers nationwide in eyelash lifting and eyelash extensions. Our fully qualified team of trainers are some of the best in the business with over 30 years combined industry experience & Recognised Australian Training Qualifications.

M A K E 2 01 8 T H E Y E A R TO G R OW YO U R B U S I N E SS .

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info@elleebana.com

Elleebana

SKINCARE

The new player in

SOLAR DAMAGE

It is no surprise that Australia has one of the highest rates of skin cancer in the world, says Terri Vinson, BSc. DipFormChem. DipEd ASCC.

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OVER 1000 AUSTRALIANS are treated for skin cancer every day, and a staggering 67 per cent of Australians will be diagnosed with skin cancer by the age of 70. Intrinsic, or chronological ageing, is based on the constantly ticking biological clock of skin cells. This is a gradual and continuous process. Extrinsic ageing, however, results from external influences such as UV damage, pollution, smoking and poor nutrition. The sun can be both friend and foe. It is a source of life for organic matter, providing essential vitamin D for bones and calcium absorption and to stimulate the production of natural endorphins, the ‘feel-good’ hormones. On the other hand, solar damage leads to solar elastosis (premature ageing), pigmentation disorders, skin cancers and malignant melanoma. In fact, solar exposure is responsible for 90 per cent of premature extrinsic ageing.

is the body’s warning that irreversible damage is occurring. Lulled into a false sense of security, people who would normally stay out of the sun are exposing themselves to excessive amounts of UV radiation. Most of us believe that these ‘burning’ rays (UVB) are the most damaging rays. This is incorrect! It is the longer wavelength UVA rays which penetrate deeper into the dermis of the skin to do two things: First, they break down collagen which results in photo ageing and wrinkles. Second, and more importantly, they disable the immune surveillance cells (Langerhans cells) which recognise skin abnormalities such as melanoma and other forms of skin cancer. UVA rays are, therefore, far more insidious than their UVB counterpart. Did you know that SPF (Sun Protection Factor) only measures protection against the burning UVB rays? It is surprising how many people do not realise that the term ‘SPF’ only measures the ability for the product to protect against UVB rays and not the UVA - ageing and cancer-producing - rays. SPF15 indicates 93 per cent absorption of these UVB burning rays, while SPF30 equals 97 per cent UVB absorption. There is currently no Australian standard to measure protection from UVA. This is a major concern and measures are being taken to come up with a new UVA/B protection rating.

UV and SPF explained

Chemical sunscreens

There are two types of UV light that penetrate our skin: UVA and UVB. The alarming rise in skin cancer may be the result of common sunscreens primarily protecting against UVB (burning rays) thus allowing people to stay in the sun longer without burning. Sunburn

There are two broad groups of sun protection products available: Chemical (organic) sunscreens and Physical (inorganic) sunscreens. Chemical sunscreens act by absorbing into the skin and once inside the skin, they absorb UV light (often only UVB rays). Over 90 per cent of sunscreens are ‘chemical,’ (organic sunscreens due to the presence of carbon atoms) which act by absorbing UV light. They absorb

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SKINCARE

into the dermis and even if these products claim broad-spectrum protection, there is often insufficient UVA protection. A few hours after application, the chemicals will break down and are found in the bloodstream. Staying power is also a big issue. Many women don’t realise that their chemical SPF30 moisturiser applied at 7 AM has been broken down and is ineffective by lunchtime. There are currently clinical studies suggesting the link between many common chemical sunscreen ingredients and problems such as hormone imbalances, skin irritation and allergy. Common examples of chemical sunscreen ingredients are: • Octyl methoxycinnamate • Oxybenzone • Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane Oxybenzone, recently tested by the National Toxicology Program, has proven to produce enlarged livers, kidney lesions, lower sperm density and oestrus cycle irregularities. Octyl methoxycinnamate has been shown to damage human skin cells when exposed to UV light. New chemicals are now being added to some chemical sunscreens to help screen UVA rays. Ironically, these can be broken down by sunlight and may also react with other UVBabsorbing ingredients.

Physical sunscreens In more recent times, there has been a growing trend towards using physical sunscreens due to their ability to physically reflect both UVA and B rays off the skin surface without being absorbed inside the body. This breakthrough has come with the ability of scientists to break down the particles of the mineral zinc oxide to be small enough (microfine) to appear clear on the skin surface, instead of the traditional ‘white nose’ look of the old thick zinc cream. For full broad-spectrum protection, look for formulations containing a minimum of 15 per cent zinc oxide. I also recommend the use of high-quality mineral make up containing zinc oxide. Because zinc is naturally calming and does not absorb into the skin or bloodstream, it is non-allergenic and highly recommended for acne, irritated or sensitive skin. Physical sunscreen adheres gently to the skin surface and is considered highly water resistant. It must, however, be reapplied following rubbing or excessive physical activity.

The next generation of solar protection Solar radiation does not only include UV rays. Infrared radiation is now a new player in the solar ageing arena. Infrared (IR) damage produces effects on the skin known as “infra-’ageing”. IR rays are not only produced by the sun but also by electric ovens, hair dryers, laptops and even certain light bulbs. UVB and UVA rays encompass solar radiation between 290 and 400nm in wavelength. IR rays are much longer in wavelength with IRA starting at 760nm and IRB extending to 300nm. IRA (near infrared) penetrates into the deep dermal layers while IRB and IRC are absorbed only by the epidermis. Infrared also damages skin cells with the conversion of IR energy to heat energy in the cells. IRA does not generate heat and is the most ageing of the IR rays. These rays can lead to hyperpigmentation, inflammation and loss of firmness and elasticity. According to US dermatologist Professor Leslie Baumann MD, infrared A rays can damage the powerhouse of the cell (the mitochondria) by generating free radicals and inducing damaging MMP (matrix metalloproteinase) expression which breaks down the structural integrity of the skin. Recent clinical studies have found that IR results in activation of cellular enzymes (MMP-1 and MMP-3) which lead to degradation of collagen and elastin. IR also causes the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and free radical damage leading to solar elastosis and premature ageing.

Interestingly, infrared rays may also be the cause of the condition known as ‘laptop rash’, where the skin may present with red or brown blotches on areas of heat contact with home computers. Scientific research has given rise to the first active ingredient to directly reduce the impact of infra’ageing, a botanical extract sourced from Polygonum Aviculare. The plant has in fact been used for centuries in Chinese medicine. This novel new cosmeceutical ingredient can reduce the activation of MMP following infrared radiation, thus reducing dermal damage to mature elastic fibres and increasing the elasticity and firmness of skin. Savvy skin care companies are now creating products to protect against IR rays by using a combination of physical blockers: zinc, iron oxide and titanium dioxide. In fact, the ideal UV/ IR blocker is mineral makeup containing high levels of zinc oxide and at least four per cent iron oxide as pigments rather than artificial colour. Antioxidants such as L-ascorbic acid, lycopene and green tea are also able to neutralise the free radicals generated by IR damage. With the added benefit of zinc oxides anti-inflammatory properties, many women are now opting for using high-quality mineral makeup as their sunscreen. Solar protection is paramount to any clients’ skin care regimen. It is no longer limited to just the impact of ultraviolet light. So, what should you recommend to your clients? It is imperative to read labels, analyse your ingredients and collect reliable information to supply the best advice possible. The next generation of solar defence must include active ingredients, physical blockers (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and iron oxides), and also botanical polygonum aviculare extract and antioxidants to combat extrinsic ageing and the damaging effects of not just UV, but also infrared radiation. It is important to strike a balance between sensible sun exposure and solar protection. Just ten minutes of gentle early morning sunlight is sufficient to prevent vitamin D deficiency. It is now more important than ever to adopt a conscious attitude in educating ourselves and our clients on complete solar protection. As industry professionals, we are all aware of the responsibility we hold for giving our clients accurate information to empower them to make an informed choice about the most essential skin care and makeup product they purchase – sun protection. n Biological chemist Terri Vinson (Bsc.DipFormChem ASCC) is the founder of cosmeceutical brand, Synergie Skin. Contact www.synergieskin.com

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Take the PRESSURE

You may not have thought much about it, but managing your salon or spa requires working in a dangerous environment, warns William J. Lynott. NO, NOT PHYSICAL danger - a different, more subtle kind of danger. It’s the hidden stress inevitable in the life of every business owner, stress that that is rampant in our society today, stress that can accumulate to the point of serious damage in both your business and personal life. How common are stress-related problems? “Up to 80 per cent of visits to primary care physicians are for symptoms directly or indirectly related to stress response,” says Vicki Rackner, MD, co-author of Chicken Soup for the Soul. “While it’s true that we live in a stress-filled world, you can control your response to stressful stimuli. Manage your response to stress more effectively, and you will have a happy, healthy heart. You will also have a healthier bottom line.” How do you know if the pressure cooker of daily business is having a harmful effect on you? “Some of the danger signals are weight gain, mental confusion, depression, suppressed immune function, and constant fatigue and insomnia,” says nutritional biochemist, Shawn M. Talbott, Ph.D. Getting stress under control can help in each of these areas. Here are seven tips that will help you avoid the severe and often permanent harm to you and those around you that can result from uncontrolled business stress:

Analyse and organise competing demands on your time Among the major causes of stress in running a business are incompatible demands on the owner’s time and resources, according to management consultant and author, Jim Stroup. “If you don’t have the time or expertise to do a given task, you should outsource it. However, if you don’t have the resources for outsourcing, chances are you’ll wind up doing it yourself. That often means doing it poorly, further straining your resources.” What to do about this? “First, organise and prioritise the bewildering flurry of competing demands on your time, being sure to include key functions such as cash flow and marketing,” says Stroup. “Next, analyse these tasks on the basis of their impact on your time and resources - which ones have the biggest impact on your success and which can be delegated or outsourced.”

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DOWN

This simple procedure often helps an owner to a better understanding of the business side of things, according to Stroup. In turn, that reduces the stress resulting from a failure to understand how to assess and organise competing demands.

Know when it’s time to quit “Learn how to turn off work and boot up life,” says consultant Jennifer Kalita, The Kalita Group. “Entrepreneurs often start businesses to get out from under an unreasonable boss, but now the only unreasonable bosses they’re working for are themselves. Make a commitment to business hours and stick to it. If you don’t, the line between your business and your personal life will become blurred. When that happens, it isn’t the business that will suffer; it’s you, your family and friends -- all the things you need to keep your life in balance.” Dr. Rackner agrees on the importance of turning off work. “The stressinduced fight-or-flight response served our species well when we faced sabretoothed tigers,” she says. “In business it often feels like a pack of tigers are right outside the door. Adrenalin and other stress hormones help you run away from danger or face challenges square on.” According to Dr. Rackner, stress-induced adrenalin becomes problematic when we use it as fuel for day-to-day activities. “Our bodies are designed for surges of adrenalin, not the day-in, day-out, sustained-release stress program followed by so many business owners and managers. That impairs not only the body’s ability to function; it also impairs business productivity and profitability.”

You know you need a vacation, but… You know how important it is to take some time for yourself and your family. You’ve been working hard and now you need to refresh and renew. However, if you’re like many entrepreneurs, the idea of walking away from business for even a day or two causes so much anxiety that it’s hardly worth it. “Take heart.” says Liz Bywater, Ph.D., president of Bywater Consulting Group, LLC. “Vacation need not be an all-or-nothing approach to relaxation. There’s no need to divorce yourself entirely from your business in order to recharge your batteries.” Dr. Bywater says there is nothing wrong with dedicating a small portion of each vacation day – even if it’s just a couple of minutes -- to checking in. “If you absolutely must speak briefly to an employee, or any business contact, so be it. Hey, one phone call could pay for your whole holiday. “Once your daily check-in is finished, you can put away your smartphone and laptop for the day and have some fun.”

Lean on your friends “Entrepreneurs, working in a constantly-changing and often uncertain environment, must deal with a host of stresses,” says Jeanne Hurlbert, Ph.D, Professor of Sociology at Louisiana State University. “Although many fail to realise it, one of their most valuable resources in coping with that stress is their social networks.” According to Dr. Hurlbert, entrepreneurs generally think of “networking” as building business contacts. “While it’s important that entrepreneurs’ social networks provide those resources, it’s at least as important that their networks

provide the social support that can help them reduce stress and cope with stress that they cannot eliminate.” Hurlbert feels that business owners should recognize that the contacts who provide that kind of support generally aren’t the same individuals who provide referrals. “Our close friends and family provide the support that helps us cope with a business downturn or other negative event,” she says. One of the most effective things business owners can do to combat stress is to build a balanced network that supports not only their business but also their personal lives, according to Hurlbert. “They also need to remember that even close ties dwindle if they’re not maintained. That’s why they need to devote time and energy to the personal side of their networks, just as they do for the business side.”

Enlist outside help “It’s not unusual for business owners to feel they have to do everything themselves,” says Dr. Bywater. “Sometimes it’s about keeping as much money as possible in the business and minimizing expenses. Sometimes it’s about quality control. You may think that if you want the job done right, you have to do it yourself, but that’s not so. True, there are many aspects of any small business that are best handled by the owner, but there’s also plenty of room in most businesses for effective outsourcing.” In order to focus on what you do best, you must take some things off your plate, according to Dr. Bywater. “That may mean such things as hiring a reliable supervisor, or a top-notch bookkeeper. The key is to farm out the kinds of work that take up lots of your time but don’t fall within your areas of expertise. Do what you do best. Have others do the rest.”

Make sure you and your significant other are on the same page “If your home life isn’t running smoothly, you’re headed for stressville,” says Steve Kaplan, author of, Be the Elephant: Build a Bigger, Better Business. “Do everything you can to help your spouse understand your business life. He or she can be a big help or a serious barrier to keeping a lid on your stress level.” Kaplan feels that finding ways to involve your family is an important weapon in the fight to control business stress. “The last thing most of us want to do after a hard day is to rehash everything,” he says. “Still, you need to remember that the person who hasn’t been with you during your workday needs to feel connected.” Involving family members in your life lets them know that you value their thoughts and it helps them to be more understanding during those missed dinners and birthday parties. That, in turn, will help you to keep stress under control, says Kaplan.

Thefect Per in Tan

r u Ho

Reduce your own importance You’ve heard it said many times -- if you want something done right, do it yourself. It’s a classic philosophy with an undeniable grain of poetic truth. However, when it comes to running a salon or spa, too many owners suffer from a dangerous overdose of do-it-yourself-itis. “Every entrepreneur has three basic responsibilities,” says Andy Birol, founder Birol Growth Consultants. “They are owner, president, and chief sales person. No owner can do everything effectively in all three of these areas.” According to Birol, entrepreneurs tend to be “control freaks.” “It’s difficult for many to trust business responsibilities to others,” he says. “However, it’s critically important to develop the ability to delegate some of your work to those around you. The penalty for a failure to do that is an almost certain build-up of the kind of business stress that will eventually impose a harsh penalty on both the business and the business owner.” Every expert interviewed for this article ranked the failure to delegate as a major cause of harmful stress. While it may seem difficult, reducing your own importance is a major step in easing the day-to-day pressures. Of course, these seven suggestions aren’t the only techniques for minimising the constant strains in your business life, but together they can go a long way toward reducing your exposure to the damage of uncontrolled stress. n For more information e-mail: blynott@comcast.net

03 9580 7274 — www.summertansystems.com PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

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Living on the

FAULT LINE Despite the pressure and long hours, the beauty game is considered to be a fun, sociable and glamorous career choice. However, behind the charm and glitz of running a successful salon, the reality is you’re exposed to a multitude of liabilities. By Michael Gottlieb. EVEN YOUR STAFF, as important as they are, pose a significant potential risk, and business owners shoulder a huge responsibility to treat them in full accordance with the law. It is not commonly known that owners, directors and senior managers of small and medium sized businesses are at risk of personal liability if a breach of the Fair Work Act (2009) is committed whilst they are at the helm. It doesn’t matter what the circumstances are, whether you were actively aware of a breach or you simply didn’t understand that the conduct was unlawful. There are no provisions for ignorance. In other words, if you gamble with your duty of care you could be personally liable for the consequences – meaning you may have to pay for any fines or penalties, compensation awarded to your employees and legal fees.

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The Fair Work Act (2009) and Fair Work Regulations (2009) were introduced to replace the former WorkChoices legislation. They govern the relationship between employers and their employees by providing a safety network of minimum entitlements around flexible working arrangements, fairness in the workplace, and the prevention of discrimination against employees (www.fairwork.gov.au). . Whilst small businesses were exempt under the old WorkChoices regime, current regulations hold all employers accountable for protection of their employees.

“During the 2016-17 financial year, 14,135 unfair dismissal applications were lodged with the Fair Work Commission” (Fair Work Commission Annual Report, 2016-17) Whilst we all strive to maintain a harmonious work environment, you simply can’t please everyone all of the time. Rightly or wrongly, and regardless of the level of care you provide, complaints can be made. A claim can be brought against you by your employees for alleged discrimination (age, race, gender, sexual orientation, religion, disability), unfair dismissal, harassment

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(including that of a sexual nature) or workplace bullying. From the time you interview your first prospective employee you are at risk of a claim being made. In fact, according to HABA (Hair & Beauty Australia Industry Association), workplace discrimination, bullying and harassment is an ongoing issue for salons in both the hair and beauty sectors, with the number of complaints continually growing (www.askhaba.com.au). Once a complaint is lodged with the Fair Work Commission regarding an employment-related issue, the tribunal is obliged to conduct an investigation. That’s where it can become an expensive and time-consuming exercise for employers, especially considering the rate for a commercial lawyer can be up to $1,000 an hour.

“Nearly one in 10 people report that they have been bullied at work in accordance with the strict Safe Work Australia definitions” (SafeWorkAustralia.gov.au, 2016) Complaints that come out of your workplace can affect more than your personal and business finances. Other indirect consequences can include workplace disruption, poor morale resulting in low productivity, poor industrial relations, and bad publicity resulting in your reputation being ruined. The good news is that there is a lot you can do to prevent a breach occurring in the first place, including understanding your obligations under the Act and staying on top of legislation updates. Establish firm policies and procedures like a documented Code of Conduct and a Workplace Discrimination Policy, and foster an anti-bullying, harassment and discrimination culture in your salon by communicating to your staff that you have a zero tolerance to such behaviour. If you do encounter an accusation of unfair dismissal or harassment, you need to address it immediately. And if you’re personally held liable, you have to respond personally too. That is of course unless you have an Employment Practices Liability (EPL)policy. EPL is a form of commercial insurance usually purchased as an add-on to your Business Insurance policy, or as part of a stand-alone Management Liability policy. It is designed to assist businesses and their key personnel in defending themselves against employment-related claims, including wrongful dismissal, sexual or workplace harassment (including bullying), discrimination, wrongful demotion or failure to employ or promote, wrongful disciplinary action, breach of employment contract, invasion of privacy and defamation. EPL is designed to protect by covering; • Legal defence costs (both yours and your employee’s) if you’re found negligent • Compensation for psychiatric, psychological or mental injury resulting from wrongful employment acts • Court ordered payment of reinstated employees salary from date of dismissal to date of reinstatement order • Fines and penalties imposed by regulatory authorities It is important to note that EPL policies do not provide cover for amounts which you are liable for under a contract of employment, award or enterprise agreement, such as unpaid annual leave, long service leave or superannuation entitlements. If you’re wondering whether it’s worth paying for an EPL policy, here are some real-life examples of where insurance has saved company directors from waving goodbye to their house, car, savings and livelihood. 1. Wrongful Termination: a Business Development Manager was terminated by his employer on the basis that his position was made redundant. He issued proceedings in the Fair Work Commission alleging that he was

IF YOU DO ENCOUNTER AN ACCUSATION OF UNFAIR DISMISSAL OR HARASSMENT, YOU NEED TO ADDRESS IT IMMEDIATELY. AND IF YOU’RE PERSONALLY HELD LIABLE, YOU HAVE TO RESPOND PERSONALLY TOO. wrongfully terminated on the basis that someone else was promoted into his position, and that his former role was not actually redundant. The Commission ordered the employer to reinstate the employee and pay him $50,000 in damages and costs. 2. Sexual Harassment & Unfair Dismissal: a female employee of a clothing retailer was terminated after she rejected her supervisor’s sexual advances. She made a complaint to Fair Work Australia and the company was found liable and ordered to pay the former employee $63,000 plus her legal fees. In addition, the company received a bill for $10,000 for their own defence costs. 3. Unfair Dismissal, Discrimination & Sexual Harassment: a male employee lodged a claim with Fair Work Australia, alleging he was terminated due to his gender. His manager and work colleagues were all women. He also alleged that his manager made sexual advances towards him, which he rejected, to which she then raised various performance-related issues that led to his employment being terminated. The matter settled at conciliation with the employer agreeing to pay $20,000 to the employee, as well as legal costs that totalled $16,000. n Michael Gottlieb is the founder and managing director of BizCover, Australia’s No.1 Business Insurance Service. He is an experienced entrepreneur in the insurance industry having founded a number of insurance businesses since 2001, and is featured on Insurance Business Magazine’s 2017 Hot List. Contact www.bizcover.com.au BizCover™ Pty Ltd is a corporate authorised representative of Mega Capital Pty Ltd. This is general advice only.

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All systems

GO!

People don’t plan to fail, they fail to plan, says Caroline Nelson

SO OFTEN I hear business owners say they want to do better, increase revenue, improve average client spend, make higher profit, and in some cases, to even start taking a decent wage for themselves. But you know for the most part it’s just talk. They have no direction, no focus, no plans, nor the necessary commitment to achieve improvement. And at the end of the day they’re just as likely to be in exactly the same place this time next year, saying the exact same things. Do you recognise yourself in the above description? Do you find yourself just marking time and not achieving? If you do, you can just stay as you are and the business will stagnate, or you could decide to turn the business around. To make it the business you always imagined it would be. It’s for you to decide, but if you want the business to reach its potential, this is a guide on how you could accomplish it. It goes without saying you need goals, because every successful business sets goals. Without them, it is very hard to keep focus and purpose. Goals and the action plans or key strategies you implement are the stepping stones to reaching the results you want.

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But firstly you need to dream. Yes; you read correctly, I said “dream” because without a dream or a wish list of what you want to accomplish with your business, you’ll find it hard to forge ahead and sustain continual growth. Let’s talk about the dream. To me, the dream is where you want the business to ultimately be. It could be five, ten, or more years. And the goals or action plans are the steps you need to implement along the way. What often stops most people from achieving their dream business is the sheer enormity of the dream. But if it is broken down into short-term goals and bite-size pieces it will be more conceivable and more easily achievable. Let’s get you dreaming. In a perfect world what would your business look like? Would the business have expanded, moved to a new location? Would you have hired additional staff, taken on another brand of skin care, bought the latest and greatest new technology? Would you have more than one location, might you have franchised your concept? Could you have developed your own skin care brand? What would the bottom-line profit be? Might you even have sold it for a handsome profit so you could comfortably retire? It’s endless what you could do, and dream, but remember everything starts with a dream it is only ever accomplished with a plan. What I like the most about dreaming, creating the goals and action plans, and implementing them, is that along the way you really start to generate higher levels of revenue and make the money your investment deserves. And this money or part thereof will provide the finances to keep building the business and propel it forward even quicker. This is business building in its true sense. Assuming you have big dreams, you will now need a plan of action and all the little steps along the way to implement. So if we go back to my opening sentence which included “want to do better, increase revenue, improve average

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client spend, make higher profit, and a decent wage” the plan implementation will be critical to success. But whichever way you look at it the first plan of action and highest priority will be to increase profits and cash flow. But before you can start to improve profits and cash flow, you need to find out if there is anything or anyone currently holding the business back. I would recommend you do some homework to identify any current inefficiencies, bottle-necks, team member/s who might be gumming up the works, and what changes or improvements may be necessary. Once you know the true state of affairs, be strong and implement corrections immediately, even if it means you personally have to change some habits. In the aesthetic industry the key to improving cash flow hinges on five critically important systems that must work like a well-oiled machine. Each of these systems will be the cornerstone to building bottom-line profits and long term sustainability.

Step 1. Getting that first booking Getting the initial first booking is an absolute must because without a booking you don’t have a client, and without a client you don’t have a business, nor your staff a job. And getting it is mostly up to the business owner to attract the potential client through eye-catching and highly visible marketing. And through the development of the professional reputation of the business and its exceptional customer service. Where this step often fails is when the business owner is under the impression that once the business is open clients will come flocking. That’s the first mistake. The second is “my services are better than my competitors” so business will come flocking to my door. This is only correct if the potential client is aware of this superior level of treatment quality, so it still comes back to marketing, public relations, and advertising. In addition, it requires constant monitoring of competitors because at any time they could improve their game and outplay your business.

Let’s go through the five main reasons rebookings are achieved. Firstly, and sadly I have to say, some business have not moved to offer the latest advanced treatments clients want, and if these services are not available, client will go elsewhere. Or, maybe the services are available, but the therapist failed to inform or educate the client. Second, many therapists just don’t listen to what the client is saying or indicating so they miss sales opportunities. Third, the therapist is more focused on building a superficial friendly relationship with the client when she should be working to develop a professional relationship. Fourth, they haven’t been trained in how to rebook. And fifth, the business owner does not check the rebook rates of every therapist on a daily basis, and doesn’t provide training immediately to correct or turn the situation around.

Step 4. Professional-strength retail If you are in the business to provide long-term results for clients then they simply must go home with the correct professional strength homecare required to maintain clinical results. There is only one way you can guarantee ongoing results for clients and that is if you have control of what they use when not in your direct care. Enough said; you all know this!

Step 2. Up-selling or up-grading

Step 5. Programs or series of treatments

It is rare for a client to be receiving all they possible could to fully benefit them by way of services and homecare. In fact statics tell us over 80 per cent of clients are being under-serviced in both treatment and homecare. When a client is under-serviced it means they are going away from the aesthetic business without receiving what would in effect be the high quality professional care they should be receiving. And the most common reason this is happening is that either therapist employee, or business owner, or both are afraid to appear too “salesy” or “pushy”. To avoid this preconception they do not recommend the full treatment requirements. Being “salesy” or “pushy” only ever applies when someone is trying to sell something the purchaser does not need. On the other hand, if a skin condition has been recognised either during skin analysis or even during a service such as an eyebrow wax, and the correct advice and recommendation doesn’t occur, then this is seriously unprofessional. Therefore if a client needs additional treatment to achieve results, an upgrade must be recommended along with the information that will enable the client to make an informed decision. It is always the client’s choice, but it is always the therapists responsibility to recommend.

It would be nice to think one service would fix all skin concerns, but let’s face it, most of the conditions clients present with have developed over a long period of time so cannot not be corrected with a single treatment. Selling programs offers the maximum treatment results, and the maximum business profit potential. Mastering these five systems and working on them every day will keep your business vital, vigorous, and highly profitable. If that sounds like a good plan, then now is the time to get cracking. Don’t delay; each day you do is potential profits down the drain. n

Step 3. Rebooking It is critical for the success of any aesthetic business to achieve and maintain high rebooking levels, particularly in an industry that has a high percentage of casual workers, most of who are told by their employer unless you rebook I can’t guarantee hours. In fact, the employer should be developing their employees to achieve high rebooking.

Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert who specializes in helping businesses develop their brand, improve productivity, and increase bottom-line profit. To learn more about her step-by-step program for salon spa success visit www.SalonSpaBusiness.com or phone 0410 600 440. © Copyright Caroline Nelson 2017

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IT AIN’T OVER, EVEN WHEN IT’S OVER: - managing post-employment restraints

Not every termination of employment ends on good terms, with a farewell lunch and thank-you card full of best wishes for the future, observes Michelle Blewett.

EMPLOYEES MAY LEAVE an organisation disgruntled, or alternatively, full of ambition to ‘make it’ with another employer, by profiting from your trade secrets, soliciting your clients, or capitalising on inventions created during the course of their employment with you. Intellectual property and confidential information are amongst a company’s most valuable assets. This is why when it comes to employees, it is important to be on guard against potential breaches of postemployment restraints which can be incredibly damaging to your business.

General principles The law presumes that competition is good, and accordingly, that restraints on competition are bad. This means that all restraints on competition are unlawful except to the extent they are reasonable. A restraint on competition must not be contrary to the public interest. Notwithstanding these principles, any and all employees may be bound by post-employment

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restraints in their employment contracts. Restraints commonly found in employment contracts usually set out that: 1. Confidential information should not be stolen 2. Employees and contractors should not be poached 3. Clients, customers and suppliers should not be poached 4. Employees should not work for a competitor or otherwise compete with their employer However, such restraints must be carefully drafted to ensure that they are ‘reasonable’. Reasonableness is assessed against three criteria: (a) That there is a genuine business interest that must be protected by a restraint of trade (b) That the timeframe during which the restraint applies is reasonable (c) That the geographical reach of the restraint is reasonable An employer should not generally have trouble enforcing restraints 1 – 3 above in the Courts, however enforcing restraint 4 can prove to be a bit more difficult, as Courts are reluctant to hold that restraining employees from participating in the free labour market and gaining alternative employment is in the public interest. Nevertheless, any restraints can be enforced to the extent that it is reasonable, given the employee’s role within the business, his or her seniority, and possession of confidential information. Generally speaking, the more senior the employee’s role, and the more possession of confidential information they have, the longer a restraint may be enforced.

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Finally, it is important to note that Courts will only protect confidential information provided it is treated as, and is in fact, secret and confidential. Courts will not protect material which is not proprietary or capable of being described as confidential. However, truly confidential information can be protected indefinitely, or until by other lawful means it is released into the public domain.

Four-year restraint upheld On 14 August 2017, the Victorian Supreme Court handed down a decision to restrain an IT specialist from working for a competitor and encouraging other employees to join him. The employee had a significant financial stake in the company and was described in the proceedings as a “key employee”. The Southern Cross Computers Pty Ltd employee entered into a restraint of trade clause for up to four years until June 28, 2020, when he sold his 40 per cent share in the business for $3.5 million to the Ingenio Group Pty Ltd, in June 2016. However, the employee began to work one day per week with a direct competitor, Blue Connections Pty Ltd, receiving $5000 per month in return. Justice Michael McDonald found that Southern Cross Computers was entitled to an order restraining the employee from working for Blue Connections until 2020 and attempting to solicit his employees to join him. The restraint was held to be reasonable because (i) the employee was key to the business, (ii) the term containing the restraint was freely entered into by the employee’s company, (iii) the employer paid a substantial amount of money in return for the terms of the share sale agreement, and (iv) the share sale agreement allowed the employee to continue his employment, and would not operate until the expiration of the employee’s fixed-term contract with the employer. This case demonstrates that employees with shares in a business may be restrained via a share sale agreement, not just their employment contracts. The decision is also significant because employment contracts often specify a restraint of six months, or twelve months at the most. The fact that the Court, in this instance, enforced a restraint of four years demonstrates that it may be worth lengthening restraint periods for senior employees, or employees with access to significant intellectual property or confidential information. Citation: Southern Cross Computer Systems Pty Ltd v Palmer (No 2) [2017] VSC 460 (14 August 2017)

Repudiated contract renders restraint unenforceable In contrast, the Victorian Court of appeal rejected financial services firm Crowe Horwarth Pty Ltd’s appeal to enforce post-employment restraints against a senior accountant who sought to provide accounting services to its clients and start his own boutique firm in Launceston, Tasmania. The key reason that Crowe Horwarth was not able to enforce the restraint was because it breached the employment contract by changing the bonus payment scheme and the employee’s role within the firm. Crowe Horwarth paid bonuses to employees each year under an incentive scheme. Eligibility for such bonuses was based on prescribed mandatory criteria, including employee’s performance and broader economic conditions, but the final decision regarding payment of bonuses remained the prerogative of management. In June 2016, the business informed employees that it was planning to defer payment of 20 per centr of the annual bonuses and distribute that component over three years. The senior accountant argued that this was a repudiation of his employment contract. He argued that there was nothing in his employment contract that authorised his employer to withhold a proportion of the bonus. He accordingly left the firm.

The Court applied the seminal authority on the subject, a House of Lords decision from 1909 General Billposting Company Ltd v Atkinson. That decision established the principle that an employer, having breached an employment contract and brought it to an end, should not be permitted to rely upon a restraint clause contained within it. The employee is now unfettered by his restraint and may seek to poach his former employer’s clients and establish a rival business. Citation: Crowe Horwarth (Aust) Pty Ltd v Loone [2017] VSCA 181 (7 July 2017)

Think list • Ensure your employment contracts contain post-employment restraint clauses that cover the four categories of restraint outlined above. Further, ensure that such clauses are reasonable, considering the role the contract is for. • Ensure that such post-employment restraint clauses identify the legitimate business interest that must be protected. This interest should only be protected for the timeframe it would take your business to redress any potential disadvantage arising from an employee breaching the restraint. • Ensure that confidential information is treated as such within the business. Documents should be marked as ‘Commercial in Confidence’, ‘Highly Sensitive’, or ‘Confidential’ where necessary. • Include a restraint clause in sale agreements for employee shares. • Uphold your side of the bargain – ensure that you have not repudiated the employment contract at any time, so that you are able to enforce the restraint if necessary. • Remind employees who you perceive to be at risk of breaching their post-employment restraints of their obligations. This could be done when you accept their resignation, or in the case of a termination, in the termination letter. • Ensure data security processes are in place. Access to the company’s confidential information should be cut off immediately upon termination. If at all possible, monitor employee’s access to company data throughout the notice period and if necessary, be on guard for hacking activity for a reasonable period (we recommend at least ninety days) after the termination. n Michelle Blewett, Workforce Guardian, call 1300 659 563 or visit www.workforceguardian.com.au

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FRONT-OF-HOUSE KEEPING

Recently I watched, with disbelief and sympathy, a poor girl working on front desk who was trying to get to a waiting client, answer the phone, deal with a customer check-out, and figure out how she was going to serve me - all at the same time, says Emma Hobson, from her position in the queue.

TO SAY SHE looked stressed and overwhelmed is an understatement, and it was only ten o’clock in the morning! Why was it all going so wrong for her? The answer is simple; evidently there was not the training, the manpower, the technology, nor the operational systems in place to support how the ‘front of house’ was being run. Consequently this staff member was stressed and miserable, and the customers frustrated. The front-of-house – the ‘power-house’ – is the ‘engine room’ of many customer- facing businesses. Relationships and reputations are created, and destroyed, here, bookings generated (or not), retail sales made (or not) and customer service delivery bench-marks the business. This

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space is our business face and personality; it demonstrates our effectiveness and professionalism to ‘serve’ our customers’ needs, and it’s the starting and finishing point for each customer. If this part of the business is flawed, then there is no doubt the business is in trouble. As a manager of a customer-facing department, I have the responsibility to ensure it runs efficiently, effectively and productively. I’m constantly aware the world is changing rapidly technologically as well as with customer expectations. It’s for this reason my recent focus has been on our front-of-house operating systems; it’s been the perfect catalyst, reminding me just how important this part of the business is to the success of what we do. To begin the review process it’s a good idea to start by asking some important questions, garnering the answers from your team and yourself. The answers provide you the solutions and your ‘to do’ list moving forward. A logical approach is to group your questions around the various components of front-of- house operating protocols and systems, for example:

BUSINESS

Staffing 1. Do you have the correct number of staff so front-of-house is not negatively affected from a customer service standpoint, and maximum revenue can be achieved from this money-generating area? 2. Does your rostering system support the needs of your customers throughout your opening and closing times? 3. Do you provide regular front-of-house training sessions? What is your current team training and how can it be improved to engage the customer, improve customer service, and maximise productivity both with bookings and product sales? 4. Do you have a front-of-house policies and procedures manual that clearly explains your business protocols and expectations? Is this used as a tool to train your staff? Is it updated annually? This manual is your blueprint, explaining how this area of your business is to be run, from greeting the client with a smile and a warm welcome within three seconds of entering the business, how everyone answers the phone and deals with enquiries, how each staff member always attempts to rebook their customer after receiving their treatment, e.g., “Your skin would benefit from another treatment in three weeks, so let’s look at a convenient time to book you in”, or “I’d ideally like to see you again in three weeks; does that work with your budget and diary”? How complaints are handled, samples distributed, and products wrapped and handed to the customer. The clearer the procedures, the easier they are to train and implement. 5. What operational obstacles or lack of technology prevents your team form doing their job effectively?

Technology 1. Can you improve the speed and convenience of payment options with new technology? E.g., Apple Pay, Google Pay, After Pay. Look at all your options and how much each would cost to implement. 2. What technology is available to improve the customer booking and confirmation process? Is it mobile-friendly or app-based and easy to use? 3. What technology can you implement immediately that would be a good business investment? E.g., tablets for the team allowing for easy consultation and product recommendations, all saved on your data base, and product recommendations and information sent instantly to the customer. 4. Are you using your current technology to its full potential? Do you need another training session with the provider? 5. What phone system do you have? Is there something better that fits the needs of your customers and your business? 6. Do you offer free wi-fi?

The customer experience 1. What changes can you make to improve the customer experience from check-in to check-out? 2. What ‘special’ customer touch-points do you offer? E.g, a fresh fruit plate with a glass of minted lemon water, beautifully presented on a tray; a cold steam towel in summer and a hot one in winter, on arrival. 3. What customer engagement activities do you provide? E.g., complementary skin analysis, skin care coaching sessions, product trialling, educational ‘skin care tips’ loaded onto a tablet, wellness bookof-the-month recommendations and an ‘ask the expert’ session i.e., every Saturday morning.

General operations 1. Can you improve your revenue stream potential? Where are the gaps that can be capitalised upon? 2. Do you carry sufficient stock so as not to disappoint your customers? 3. Do customers have easy access to testers?

AS A MANAGER OF A CUSTOMER-FACING DEPARTMENT, I HAVE THE RESPONSIBILITY TO ENSURE IT RUNS EFFICIENTLY, EFFECTIVELY AND PRODUCTIVELY. I’M CONSTANTLY AWARE THE WORLD IS CHANGING RAPIDLY TECHNOLOGICALLY AS WELL AS WITH CUSTOMER EXPECTATIONS. 4. Do you display promotions clearly and effectively? 5. Do you re-merchandise your shelves regularly? 6. Do you have hot spots and easy point-ofsale items? 7. Do you have visible and clear pricing for retail and treatments? 8. Are your shelves and testers cleaned daily? You can easily conduct a customer feedback survey using an online service such as Survey Monkey to find out where your customers think you can make improvements or where you might be currently letting them down. Mature businesses grow slowly and steadily, inch by inch, and ‘extra’ inches can be found everywhere when you start looking for them. Your front-of-house can provide you many of those extra inches of growth; all you need to do is take some ‘working on the business’ time to identify where they are. As with myself, I encourage you to take some time and have a good look at your front-of-house customer service delivery and your operational systems, and ask yourself, ‘How can we do it better’? It is an old but still very valid cliché that says we should work ‘on’ our business, not just ‘in’ our business. It’s the New Year, and the perfect time to refocus on ‘the engine room’ of the business. Wishing you the motivation and power to make the necessary changes, and to stay relevant and competitive in this ever-changing world. n Emma Hobson is the Education Manager at The International Dermal Institute and Dermalogica, Asia Pacific. For more information call 1800 659 118 or visit dermalogica.com.au.

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60 SECONDS WITH

MARIE ENNA-COCCIOLONE Starting out as a beauty therapist, Marie Enna-Cocciolone went on to found distribution company INSKIN COSMEDICS. She shares her passion for the Australian beauty industry, supporting salons and products that work with Professional Beauty. You started out as a beauty therapist—what did you learn during this time that informs how you run your business today? The critical learning that came out of being a hands-on beauty therapist was that consumers have the answers. When it comes to creating brands and launching products, the key is to start with the consumer. They know exactly what they want; they take out the guesswork.

What was missing from the Australian beauty industry that led you to start INSKIN COSMEDICS in 2007? Heart and soul. Without any disrespect to the awesome individuals I know, in 2007 there were a lot of cowboys looking to make a quick buck. Men flocked to the industry for the opportunity to sell high-end equipment and suddenly a female orientated industry was being tainted by ‘used car salesmen’ kind of guys. My goal was to provide the industry with an ethical, professional and true partner.

What does the word ‘cosmedics’ mean to you? It’s the foundation of my business and corrective skincare offer. When I started my distribution company I called it INSKIN COSMEDICS, my first brand O COSMEDICS and my second, more recent brand GINGER&ME NEUROCOSMEDICS. I did so because I am committed to using functional doses of active ingredients that can stimulate a cellular action and ultimately a skin change. If it’s not cosmedical it’s really just a ‘smell good, feel good’ product.

How has your approach to beauty changed over your ten years in business? Without a doubt it is more results driven, medically aligned and evidence based due to advanced technology, skin science breakthroughs and formulation sophistications that make corrective skin treatments and skin transformations possible.

Can you tell us more about your two Australian skincare brands? Why did the market need these products? 112

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The Australian market needed, and still needs, an Australian-made, exclusiveto-professionals, online protected offer that supports consumers walking through clinic doors and the business proposition of clinics. Clinics are service based first, retailers second; consumers need a reason to physically visit as much as possible.

Why don’t you sell all your brands online? Professional brands need to be in the hands of professional people, especially cosmedical ones that trigger responses. Dermal therapists should be able to offer brands that are not sold through other distribution channels and are more advanced than anything else in the marketplace, to prevent consumers buying online after the skin diagnosis and prescription has been performed by a therapist.

Apart from having online protected brands, how else do you support salons? At the end of every year I say, ‘Next year is going to be all about consolidating, no more new brands’, however, that’s never going to happen when I have the opportunity to strengthen the industry’s ability to become a diverse skin transforming offer. I am keen to grow our nutritional medicine offer and to introduce products that support in-clinic treatment results—products that are in line with international retail trends and encourage consumers through clinic doors. Our INSKIN COSMEDICS education calendar is already looking incredible. We have had to move our Dermapen Advanced Masterclass Tour presented by Dr Andrew Christie to bigger premises to cater for the demand, we have a Skin Analysis Boot Camp starting in May, and we are offering gut health training. That’s in addition to all the brand and business training we already offer. Our inskinPOP (Profit Optimisation Programme) supports ultimate reward and recognition and we will continue to service our partners the good old fashioned way: face-to-face to ensure our partnership remains strong and profitable.

Finally, what is your best piece of advice for others in the beauty industry? The biggest opportunity we have in a world that is becoming more and more disconnected is touch. The online movement, where it was once discount driven, is now convenience driven and we too can support a consumer’s need for convenience. With online, on the other hand, you don’t get the chance to see, touch and connect with a consumer personally. There isn’t the chance to build this tangible experience and so I say to clinics that want to be here in two to five years’ time—make your experience unforgettable. Mould it to your customers’ needs. Consider speed, value for money, convenience and loyalty and if you don’t know what they want, bring a selection of customers together and ask them. Remember customers have the answers; you simply need to ask them the right questions. n www.inskincosmedics.com.au

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EVENTS

Endota Spa celebrated the launch of new products in the Endota New Age range with a journey of the senses at The Grounds of Alexandria. It featured a meditation session, product trial and dance performance by Diramu Aboriginal Dance and Didgeridoo. To celebrate the launch of D’Lumiere Esthetique by Dr Daniel Lanzer, AMPR treated media to an intimate breakfast and express treatments at La Porte Deux, Rosebery. Dr Lanzer, an Australian dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon, said the skincare approach had been developed for full rejuvenation of the skin with its holistic use of serums and creams with highly active ingredients.

Skin Clinic at Blyss celebrated its move to a bigger, brighter and better premises with cupcakes and champagne. The clinic is now located at 38 – 40 Frenchman’s Road, Randwick.

Advanced Skin Technology held their Skinposium for clinics and salons. More than 100 attendees listened as Joanne Healy, national education manager and training coordinator, spoke about new technologies being introduced to the Australian and New Zealand professional market.

Bondi Sands launched their new SPF suncare range at the Bucket List in their spiritual home of Bondi Beach. Bucket List transformed into a beach party complete with inflatables and ice-blocks.

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EVENTS

Jax Wax Australia officially launched their new packaging at Olympia Beauty in the UK. The focus on Australian flora for the names of the waxes was received with excitement, a spokesperson said. The annual Pevonia Awards recognised and commended the most outstanding Pevonia salons, spas, therapists and spa managers. A total of 12 awards were awarded across four categories.

For the first time since launching in 2015, The Advanced Skills Academy opened its doors to its Student Skills Clinic at Bundall on the Gold Coast to the public. A team of experienced dermal and laser trainers offered a behind-the-scenes glimpse at the medi-aesthetics industry during an evening of cheese, champagne and cosmetic treatments.

The Australian aesthetics industry celebrated its annual ‘Oscars’, the MyFaceMyBody Australasia Awards, with a gala dinner in Sydney. Held at the Hilton Hotel and hosted by MyFaceMyBody founder Stephen Handisides, the event attracted 350 of the industry’s leading professionals as well as media and celebrities.

Beauty media and bloggers celebrated the launch of Love OPI, XOXO and the announcement that OPI has partnered with Tash Sefton and Elle Ferguson with cocktails and manicures. Guests were given monogrammed OPI pouches and had the opportunity to take nail selfies. Mesoestetic’s CEO and founder, Joan Carles Font, visited our shores for the first time to present at a media launch organised by Advanced Cosmeceuticals. The event was held at La Porte Space where attendees were treated to canapés and a twocourse lunch prepared by Dining Abode, before taking home a gift bag and an anti-ageing treatment voucher.

Hosted or attended a great beauty event? We’d love to hear from you. Please email your clear photos with a brief description of the event to be considered for inclusion in Professional Beauty to our beauty editor, Michelle Ruzzene, at mruzzene@intermedia.com.au.

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ADVERTISER INDEX

index

Aesthetic Advanced Technology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113-115 Age Delay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123 BIG Review TV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46-47 Biz Cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 Brandee Meier Photography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Caroline Nelson Salon Spa Business . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 Clinic Care / DermaEnergy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33, 41 Comfortel Furniture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Cosmoprof Asia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28-29 Derma Aesthetics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22-23 Dermalogica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Front Cover, 2-3, 14 -15 DMK Danne Montague-King . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Eternal Health Medical Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Ethix Beauty Blog . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Ex-Import Niche Products. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Inskin Cosmedics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Institute of Personal Care Science . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 International Beauty Supplies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Jax Wax Australia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8-9

Jessica Cosmetics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61 Long Lashes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Mancine Cosmetics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103, 124 Mind Wellness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 OmniDerm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Payot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-5 Pelactiv . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Pure Communications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Reed Exhibitions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Skin Type Solutions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 The Sales Catalyst. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43, 119 Timely . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Tru-Lux . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Ultraceuticals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Ultraderm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 USANA Australia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 USPA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 Vita-sol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63, 91