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MAY•JUN 2020 THE BIBLE OF THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY
BEAUTY REVOLUTION Game changing ways to thrive
TECH TALK
What your salon needs to know
LAUNCH INTO SPACE
Tips to go virtual
THE SURVIVAL GUIDE Here is how
Why Corneotherapy & Naturopathy is a match made in heaven Our Derma Development Plan takes the unique chemistry of your clinic to create a bespoke programme supporting your vision & goals, no matter what they are. Together, we’ll design a customised strategic plan enabling you to realise your vision. Sign up for our free webinar and learn from industry leaders with exclusive insights into their success: www.dermaviduals.com.au/ my-development-plan
Asha Evertsz – The Clear Skin Expert Practicing Corneotherapist, naturopath, educator, clinic owner & mentor “dermaviduals has helped us change the lives of those suffering with severe skin conditions. Using a therapeutic and customisable range that we trust has been an essential part of our success. Since we became an exclusive dermaviduals stockist in 2015 we have had over a 600% increase in our sales. Connect with me to learn more!”
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I’ll have what she’s having! Our new Derma Development Plan takes the unique chemistry of your clinic to create a bespoke programme supporting your vision & goals no matter what they are. Together we’ll design a customised strategic plan enabling you to realise your vision. Sign up for our free webinar and learn from industry leaders with exclusive insights into their success: www.dermaviduals.com.au/ my-development-plan
Robyn McAlpine – Expert Skin Therapist Clinic owner, author, keynote speaker & ambassador “dermaviduals took me from skin novice to skin expert. They transformed my business and the way I diagnose, prescribe & execute skin treatments! Connect with me and ask me how.”
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1300 420 223 support@skincorrection.com.au © Derma Aesthetics
save the NEW DATE The summit for salon, spa and clinic professionals. Take your business to the next level with a collaborative day of inspiring talks, innovative ideas and engaging conversations guided by industry experts.
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CONTENTS
May/June 2020
7
Editor’s Letter
8
What’s on PB Radar
10
Expert Talk
12
News
20
Cover Story asap skin products
22
Skincare – Retinols
24
Skincare – Anti-environmental aggressors
26
Skincare – Masks
30
Skincare – New products
32
Makeup – Cream makeup
34
Makeup – Base products
36
Makeup – New products
38
Nails – Marine nails
40
Viewpoint – The Issue of Change
50
Otto Mitter – Game changing ways to thrive
53
Industry Roundtable – Active ingredients, product advancements & innovation
40
70
Talking Beauty with Hannah Gay
72
Launching Into Beauty Space
74
Salon Profile – Skin Inspiration
76
How to tweak your business in trying times
80
PAYOT celebrates 100 years
82
Wellness
84
Salon Profile – Skin Forum
86
The Survival Guide
88
Salon Life Post COVID-19
90
Technology
92
Beauty Escape – Club Med Spa by Mandara
96
Last Word – Melanie Burnicle
84 ON THE COVER
During lockdown many clients are missing their salon regime. We chat to asap’s Carley Stewart about the latest innovation set to keep you glowing. Find out all about the new asap liquid platinum regeneration treatment that brightens and refines skin and is perfect for customers to use at home. Turn to page 20.
80 53
92 The Intermedia Group takes its Corporate and Social Responsibilities seriously and is committed to reducing its impact on the environment. We continuously strive to improve our environmental performance and to initiate additional CSR based projects and activities. As part of our company policy we ensure that the products and services used in the manufacture of this magazine are sourced from environmentally responsible suppliers. This magazine has been printed on paper produced from sustainably sourced wood and pulp fibre and is accredited under PEFC chain of custody. PEFC certified wood and paper products come from environmentally appropriate, socially beneficial and economically viable management of forests. The wrapping used in the delivery process of this magazine is 100% biodegradable.
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EDITOR’S LETTER
WELCOME TO OUR special edition – The Issue Of Change as Professional Beauty shines a light on these dramatic times in the industry. The beauty landscape was put into a tail spin with the COVID-19 epidemic in March and it has forever changed the way salons and leaders conduct their business – as salons were closed in lockdown. One thing that we have learnt during these uncertain times is that companys have risen to the challenge to re-imagine their business from going virtual to coming up with innovative ways to reach their customers.
PUBLISHER BHA MEDIA BHA MEDIA PUBLISHER + COMMERCIAL MANAGER Glenn Silburn EDITOR Anita Quade aquade@intermedia.com.au BEAUTY EDITOR Hannah Gay hgay@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper GROUP ART DIRECTOR Sanja Spuzanic SUBSCRIPTIONS subscriptions@intermedia.com.au
We chatted to some of the trail blazers, who have managed to stay positive and offer new ways to conduct business. Turn to our special Viewpoint on page 40 to see what these inspirational entrepreneurs are doing to forge ahead and read their personal advice to their fellow peers. We love a gathering of thought leaders who continue to share their invaluable knowledge and earlier in March – we conducted our 14th Industry Roundtable. The gathering at The Spice Room saw a day jam packed with discussions on active ingredients, product advancements and innovation. Take a look at their insights from the day on page 53. As salons close for the foreseeable future – I chat with business owners about their launch into Beauty Space. Find out the clever ways these innovators from makeup artists to skin injectors have tailored their business to operate in sthe virtual world on page 22. We also have a quick how to Survival Guide with all the latest legislation and Government information you can access on page 86. Enjoy this issue and stay safe.
Professional Beauty magazine is published by BHA MEDIA
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SUBSCRIPTION RATES 1yr (6 issues) for $89.00 (inc GST) 2yrs (12 issues) for $160.20 (inc GST) 3yrs (18 issues) for $213.60 (inc GST) To subscribe and to view other overseas rates visit www.intermedia.com.au or Call: 1800 651 422 Email: subscriptions@intermedia.com.au Average Total Distribution: 8,656 AMAA/CAB Yearly Audit Period ending 31 March 2019.
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Emma Hobson
This Director of Education for Dermalogica shares: “We see ourselves as an integral support mechanism for our businesses, these incredibly resilient small business owners, many currently finding themselves working alone to keep afloat, need someone to talk to, someone they know who cares and someone they know has ‘their back’ when things get tough. They need to know that we are not just there for them in the good times, but there for them at all times”. (page 10)
Otto Mitter
This long time business owner and Managing Director of Ex-Import Niche Products shares his wise advice on page 50. “It is one of the most challenging times we have had to face, but it is within these times that true leaders emerge, our community comes together and we find ourselves digging deep which often allows us to come up with our very best offerings.”
Meredith Langley After more than 25 years in the business, owner of The Beauty Room Cosmetic Clinic shares: “I think it is very important during these times that we don’t be seen to be greedy and capitalising of people’s grief as it sends a bad message to our clients. We will all be accountable on how we acted during this time and our clients and communities in which we work and live will remember what we did or didn’t do, and how we helped and supported each other during these trying times.” Turn to page 22.
This publication is published by BHA MEDIA, a division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication.
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY
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PB RADAR
On our RADAR
THE PEOPLE, PLACES AND EVENTS THAT PRO BEAUTY IS CURRENTLY CRUSHING ON BIG TICKET TREATMENTS
On the re-opening of salons, Dr Naomi McCullum, Board Member at The Cosmetic Physicians College of Australasia (CPCA) and founder of The Manse Clinic, suspects the treatment of frown lines and crows feet will be most heavily requested by clients. “Anti-wrinkle injections and dermal fillers start wearing off after a couple of months. Some will be quite desperate, as they may not have seen wrinkles in those areas for decades.” In terms of non-injectable treatments, Dr Naomi regards combination treatments, such as laser/ IPL + a peel + an LED, as well as RF microneedling and Laser Genesis as big ticket items – “people will want to look great and get back out there socially! We just cannot wait to get back to it, we miss our patients so much.”
PBS’ LATEST ACQUISITION
Professional Beauty Solutions has acquired the Australian distribution of the Electroporation Needle (EPN) – a microneedling system that combines electroporation with dermal needling to stimulate collagen production via Collagen Induction Therapy (CIT) and to increase the permeability of the cell membrane. The ergonomic tool has received approval from the TGA and is both a safe and effective treatment option to encourage cell regeneration, improve skin texture, tone and tightness, and to reduce fine lines and wrinkles for clients. To learn more, contact Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387.
A FACE HALO
is sold every
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AUSTRALIAN SKIN CLINICS X LUMENIS
Australian Skin Clinics has recently partnered with device distributor, Lumenis by electing their SPLENDOR X technology as the skin rejuvenation and hair removal franchise’s preferred laser system. CEO of Australian Skin Clinics, Kevin Waite remarked - “with the Australian hair removal market becoming increasingly competitive, Australian Skin Clinics were looking for a device that could meet the highest level of clinical results and offer our clients a more efficient and effective solution.” SPLENDOR X is powered by BLEND X (Binary Laser Emission of Nd: YAG and Alexandrite) to tailor treatments based on an individual’s skin type, hair colour and thickness. For more information, contact Lumenis 1800 586 364.
SECONDS
GLOBALLY
BEST IN BEAUTY
In March, winners of The 10th Anniversary Beauty Shortlist & Wellbeing Awards 2020 were announced. A string of salon brands took home awards, including Murad, Eco Tan by Sonja Driver, La Glam Minerals, Mavala and Eye of Horus. Awards were allocated to brands under various categories including Best New Skincare Launch, Best Moisturiser for Oily Skin, and Best Nail Product. For a full list of winners, head to www. thebeautyshortlist.com.
FOLLOW PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY: facebook.com/ProfessionalBeautyAust @pro_beauty_aus @ProBeauty_Aust linkedin.com/company/professional-beauty
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world’s leading professional depigmentation method cosmelan® is a professional, topical skin brightening treatment that helps to visibly reduce and eliminate dark spots and blemishes caused by excess melanin in the skin. It’s cutting edge formula has been After designed to achieve maximum efficacy, while it helps to balance skin DNARenewal: THE FOUNDER ® tone and increase skin luminosity. The cosmelan application acts on Before Dr. Ronald for L. Moy, scientist, researcher, dermatologist, and cosmetic surgeon, the cells that are responsible skin renowned pigmentation, helping to reduce has dedicated his life’s work to understanding the impact of photo damage on skin’s health and aging. melanin production in hyperpigmented areas and thereby helping to Today, DNARenewal marks the culmination of his passion to create a clinically proven regimen that remove or lighten unsightly blemishes and spots. effectively helps repair photodamaged aging skin.
EXPERT TALK
EXPERT talk Want to know what’s on the minds of our experts this edition? Anita Quade chats to industry leaders about their inspiration and trends.
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SARAH HUDSON
TREVOR NEALE
EMMA HOBSON
Founder of Skin by Sarah Hudson
Director and CEO of The Aesthetic Bureau
Director of Education Dermalogica
What advice can you offer beauty salons at this time? “As a businesswoman, you are now in a position to negotiate terms and protect the business you have built. I am using this time to review my contracts with banks, landlords, insurances, suppliers and product companies to negotiate my trading terms and have these documents legally binding by a lawyer. It is the time to review these terms smartly so when we are able to begin trading again we can ensure the longevity of our businesses, so have good trading-terms in place.”
How have you re-imagined your business over this time? “As part of the Aesthetic Industry family, we have to be there in times of need. It’s about the effort, and despite the challenges, we’ve leveraged digital technologies not only to enhance our operations, but to reach out and provide greater support and connections with our customers. In addition, we’ve adapted by redesigning equipment access by offering flexible device rental schemes to help lower the barriers to equipment ownership.”
How have you adapted to the changing conditions? “We see ourselves as an integral support mechanism for our businesses, these incredibly resilient small business owners, many currently finding themselves working alone to keep afloat, need someone to talk to, someone they know who cares and someone they know has ‘their back’ when things get tough. They need to know that we are not just there for them in the good times, but there for them at all times”.
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TOP 3
beauty picks DIY BRONZE Lycon’s Self-Tanning Foam is the latest installment in the brand’s Lyco-Bronze range and is suitable for at-home use. The Australian made formula is largely naturally derived and is designed to develop from a light to extra dark tan in as little as four hours. LYCON Cosmetics Australia 07 3004 6200. PRETTY IN PASTEL Cult skincare company, Alpha-H has made-over it’s line of Vitamin Serums with fresh, pastel packaging. Tapping into the trend towards personalised skincare, formulations A through E are uniquely designed to treat common concerns like dehydration and a lacklustre complexion. BLC Cosmetics 1800 659 777.
TALKING HANDS A complimentary hand massage will maximise any salon treatment offering, and can be particularly worthwhile for the client when a nourishing hand cream is thrown in. Consider the lanolin-rich (and divinely scented) Milk & Honey Hand Cream Intense by Lano a luxe go-to. Lanolips 02 9337 1111.
NEWS NAILING EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING Experiential marketing - where a product of service is marketed through experience - is becoming more important, and a preferred, method of marketing among customers. According to a recent study by Nielsen, 77 per cent of women said that a live demonstration or experience helped them to better understand, and therefore decide to purchase a product. With the Coronavirus set to throw us into a recession and see consumers become more careful about how and where they spend their money, experiential marketing is a tool that may prove extremely beneficial to your salon with regard to your products and services. “Despite all the advances in technology and growth in online sales, consumers still seek out the human element,” says marketing expert Katrina McCarrther. “Real-life connections still count, and emotional connections will win no matter how much technology you have on your side.” Invite your customers in Once the restrictions are lifted, conduct group experiences, to show an intimate group of customers how a new piece of equipment, or treatment, works. Making it a relaxed event (think canapés and immunity-boost juices), it will encourage customers to ask questions, become familiar, and be more likely to commit to trying the product or service. “Millennial and Generation Z customers are increasingly seeking out unique experiences that provide them with talking points with their friends,” says Katrina.
MARKETING TO GENERATION Z When it comes to marketing a salon or service, we’ve been so focused on marketing to millennials that we barely noticed the newest kids on the block. Say hello to Generation Z. At first glance, it can be tempting to lump millennials and Gen Z together; the overlap in age means that both can sit somewhere in their twenties. And yet, there are stark differences that suggest Generation Z demands an offering all of their own. But who are they? Generation Z covers anyone who was born between 2005 to the mid 2000s, and this demographic makes up 32 per cent of the global population. While millennials were mobile pioneers, Gen Z are mobile natives. That is, they’ve never known life without the internet and are the most connected generation in history. They aren’t ‘mobile first’ - they’re ‘mobile only’. While millennials prefer brands and companies that share their values, Generation Z likes their brands to feel authentic. Millenials tend to be idealistic while their Generation Z counterparts are pragmatic. And importantly, while millennials grew up during an economic boom, Generation Z grew up in a recession. Hence,
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DEMAND FOR FAT-DISSOLVING INJECTIONS ON THE RISE While dedication to exercise may help to melt fat away from certain parts of the body, other areas - such as under the chin - can be more stubborn. As a result, the demand for fat-dissolving injections in Australian clinics has increased dramatically. “Fat-dissolving injections are an injectable drug that work by destroying the fat cells in the treated area,” says Doctor Vivek Eranki of Cosmetique Cosmetic Surgery Clinic. “These fat cells that are destroyed cannot return or regrow. The treatment is very effective in reducing the fat under the chin and help redefine your jawline, effectively eliminating your double chin without surgery.” Fat under the chin is influenced by several factors including ageing, genetics, weight gain and diet. “Treating a double chin with fat dissolving injections doesn’t require preparation prior to the procedure,” says Doctor Eranki. The injections contain deoxycholic acid, a Schedule 4 drug, which has been approved by the Australian Therapeutic Goods Association for sub-mental contouring. The product is injected into the fat, and permanently destroys the fat cells by a process known as adipocytolysis. Once the fat cells are destroyed, they cannot store fat again, making the results permanent. “Following an assessment of the patient, the fat pocket is mapped out. We then apply a nerve block to ensure a painless procedure. The procedure only takes around ten to fifteen minutes in total,” says Doctor Eranki. Patients undergoing fat dissolving injections in the chin normally feel a sense of swelling and warmth in the area immediately afterwards. By day one to three, the swelling usually starts to go down. By day seven, the chin area may feel slightly hard. By week six, the fat pad starts to reduce in size.
while this generation is the largest demographic on the planet and therefore massively important to business, they’re also incredible savvy with their cash. Sell experiences, not products This market doesn’t have time for your obvious marketing campaign. In fact, they’re immune to it. They don’t want to hear about your latest product; they want to know how it will fit them and make their life better.
NEWS
DITCH THESE HABITS, MAKE MORE MONEY Is your salon leaving too much cash on the table, and missing opportunities to increase revenue? Good chance; most do. But the extreme to which you miss out on making money can vary, depending on how prepared you are to spot opportunities. Not leveraging existing customers “Every satisfied customer is an ambassador for your salon,” says business analyst Clayton Eniz. “They are the best people to promote your business, and they’re likely happy to do so. It’s imperative that you give them the tools to do that.” It could be as simple as requesting them to post to social media about their positive experience in your salon. A real customer’s glowing review is always going to be more powerful than an Insta-celebrity. In addition, consider offering a discount to an existing customer when they refer a friend, or encouraging them to try new treatments as a bundle deal are all likely to build your revenue. Rewarding underperforming staff While it’s important to reward staff to keep them motivated, rewarding underperforming staff only endorses their sub-standard work ethic, while chipping away at your bottom line. Moreover, rewarding those who do well, will ideally encourage others to step up their own efforts. In addition, creating a team-based bonus - which relies on every team member to reach particular targets - will hold every staff member accountable to each other; no one wants to be the team member that lets the group down. Offering too many discounts It makes sense to discount treatments in quieter periods, in an effort to increase bookings, but offering them without a strategy could be dangerous. “Giving a discount is just giving a discount if you’re not using that promotion to fill off-peak times,” says Clayton. He suggests that rather than discounting, upgrading to a more popular service can make it easier for a client to upgrade “in treatment.”
BE AN INSPIRING LEADER It used to be that managers and leaders were expected to be intimidating, to lead with an iron fist and to take no prisoners. But times have changed, and these days employees want to be led by someone that inspires them, someone who is approachable and that they can learn valuable skills from. Particularly in this uncertain climate, employees need to look to their leader for assurance, as well as inspiration. Show humility A recent study by the US National Institute of Health, revealed that leaders that displayed humility led to higher levels of information sharing among a team. “Information sharing in important for promoting problem solving,” said
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WHAT YOUR CUSTOMERS SHOULD NEVER SEE Whether customers are coming to your salon for a relaxing facial, or a toe-curling hair removal session, it’s safe to say they have put their trust in you and your business. With that in mind, you need to be aware that your salon presents as a safe place, where only good things happen. So the number one thing customers should never see is: Mess Cleaning the salon isn’t a once-a-day job. In fact, ensuring the space - from the front desk to the treatment rooms - are spotless is the all-day responsibility of every staff member. Ensure that every therapist cleans the treatment room down after every appointment - used wax strips, towels, even spots of talc, should be removed. Ensure that any water glasses are removed from waiting areas, and that surfaces re clean and free of dust. “Your salon says exactly who you are and what type of establishment you are operating,” says Jeff Grissler, author of The Salon Building Bible. “It’s better to manage your salon with a bit of OCD, than one who is lax with keeping the salon tidy.
the authors. Showing humility also encourages team members to come to their leader with any concerns, problems or grievances. Behave the way you want your team to act Want to create an environment of hostility and tension? Then behave that way. But, on the flipside, being open, encouraging and aware of your team’s strengths and assisting them on developing the skills of overcome their weaknesses, will ensure that your team reacts in a positive manner. “Even with a clear idea of your company’s winning behavioral signature, leaders need to develop new ways of operating,” says Eric Garton of the Harvard Business review. “We found that leaders who both inspire people and generate results find
ways to constructively disrupt established behaviors to help employees break out of culture-weakening routines.” Communicate That means listening as well as giving instructions. “Inspirational leaders truly listen to what is said to them and respond appropriately, instead of letting it go in one ear and out the other,” says business consultant Murray Newstaadt.
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NEWS RECOVER FROM NEGATIVE ONLINE REVIEWS We live in a digital age, which means that when a disgruntled customer leaves a negative review of your salon online, it’s there forever. Given that potential customers tend to pore over reviews before deciding whether to give your salon a try, negative reviews can be pretty damning. But
ELECTROLYTES: THE NEW GO-TO INGREDIENT Move over, hyaluronic acid, there’s a new hydrating ingredient on the block, and it’s set to steal your crown as the go-to for skin therapists. When used in skincare, electrolytes act as a redistribution system, helping to deliver the face all the hydration it needs. While the ingredient is mostly associated with sports drinks, it works the same in skincare. Water follows the flow of electrolytes, so when it’s infused in skin care, it allows water to be drawn into the skin. Ultimately, it hydrates faster and more effectively than a moisturiser can. Essentially, electrolytes are minerals (potassium, magnesium and calcium) that conduct electricity when mixed with water. In turn, electricity helps the cells generate energy to regulate water levels in the body. “Electrolytes are best for dry skin types or skin that needs more hydration since electrolytes drive more water into the skin to be absorbed, says cosmetic surgeon, Nazanin Saedi. “Electrolytes can also give skin a boost to look more buoyant, plump, and healthy.” With a recent study by Cosmetify confirming that consumers are welleducated on the ingredients available expect requests for electrolyte products.
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there is a way to deal with them. And it’s probably the last thing you feel like doing: be nice. While it’s obviously important to ensure your customers have zero reason to leave negative reviews, sometimes things do go wrong. And when those things result in a negative review, it’s imperative that you act swiftly. According to a recent survey by Harvard Business Review, when businesses responded to reviews, their total reviews began to grow, give that customers realised their voices were being heard. “We found that when [businesses] started responding, they received 12 per cent more reviews and their ratings increased, on average, by 0.12 stars,” said David Poserpio, author of the study.
Set aside time to reply to reviews, both good and bad. However, with the negative ones, don’t try to defend your position. “Apologise for not meeting their expectations. Ask what could have been improved, or how you can make things better,” says David. “Never blame the customer.” A lot of time time, a disgruntled customer simply wants to make a point, however, by responding, you’re not only appeasing their need too be heard, you’re publicly committing to improving, and that carries a lot of weight to not only the customer writing the review, but the many others reading it. Invite the customer back to the salon and, once you’re sure they’re happy with their service, invite them to provide a more positive review, ideally on the original post thread, as others will see that a resolution was found.
IMPROVE STAFF PERFORMANCE If you own a salon, there’s a good chance you’ve had that moment when you’ve noticed one of your staff is, to put it lightly, underperforming. Sometimes, it’s a momentary thing; personal dramas, a touch of fatigue or just a lapse in enthusiasm, are easily overcome by a quick, respectful chat. But what if the lack of performance becomes more regular, to the point that the therapist in question is performing below par at every shift? Ignoring the problem and hoping it will improve isn’t ideal, given silence can be taken as acceptance. And letting the team member go forfeits the opportunity to help them overcome their shortcomings - not to mention the cost of replacing staff. That leaves you with little choice but to roll up your sleeves, work out the root of the problem and help your employee to become a high-performing team member. So, how do you do it? Set goals Once you’ve spoken with your employee and have highlighted your concerns, be clear on what your expectations are. “Frequent communication is critical. Ensure employees understand their objectives by asking them to explain them in their own words,” says business consultant Bridget Millar. Recognise achievements It can be an easy habit to fall into, to only highlight a staff member’s shortcomings, and not their achievements. It’s also tempting to only reward top performers, rather than those that show personal improvement. “When an employee does something worth recognising, give him or her that recognition. If appropriate, consider giving a reward for employee service that exceeds expectations,” says Bridget. Communicate Most businesses follow a model whereby management carries out an annual - or twice-yearly - employee performance review. The problem with this is that six months, or even a year, can pass without staff getting appropriate feedback, direction or encouragement. If you’re working with a staff member to improve their performance, agree on a regular catch-up; weekly is great, monthly should be the longest stretch.
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NEWS
SHOULD YOUR SALON BE A TECHFREE ZONE? While we’re aware that studies consistently show negative effects of too much screen time, people often insist that a scroll through social media is an escape, a time-out, and a way to relax. With that in mind, should salons make a move to create a screenfree environment? A study released by acupuncture supply company Lhasa OMS revealed that 56 per cent of millennials feel that excess technology or media can make life stressful, and that 55 per cent feel that they are stressed due to social pressure online. A recent study by ISPA found that 13 per cent of salon customers feel that salons should introduce a tech-free policy, while 23 per cent said they would be more likely to visit a salon or spa if it had a technology ban. While there are obvious benefits to going tech-free, including the added feeling of privacy and ‘switching off’, there are also benefits to allowing customers to have their devices in your salon, such as giving them the opportunity to post about their experience on social media, increasing your salon’s exposure. Time for a test? If you’re toying with the idea of going tech-free in your salon, perhaps schedule a trial first. Consider tech-free times, such as Saturday mornings, rather than a complete ban. You could also consider contacting regular customers and gauge their opinion on a tech ban. Their feedback will be a good indicator of how a ban would be received.
THRIVING THROUGH STRESS Whether you’re a salon owner or employee, there is one thing you’ll be able to agree on - working in the beauty industry can be a bit of a pressurecooker environment. From back-to-back bookings, late-running clients, and spending the day on your feet, stress can seep in and take hold. Here are some techniques for when the going gets tough. Human beings work well under pressure “Some of us naturally know how to work well under pressure, even those who are not so naturally gifted learn to adapt,” says programmes management expert Ronda Hakim. “Because we are survivalists, we love challenges and we like to accomplish difficult tasks that keep us
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STAFF RECORDS YOU NEED TO KEEP If you’re a small business, chances are that you don’t have a HR department. So the waters can be a little murky when it comes to employee records, and what you need to keep long after that staff member has left your company. There are basic records that you need to keep, in accordance with the Fair Work Act 2009. These include: The nature of employment (including the job title and whether it was a casual, part- or full-time appointment • Commencement date • Salary • Any overtime • Leave/holiday records • Superannuation • Termination of role Ideally, you should start collecting this information during the recruitment process, when the potential employee provides you with their CV, copy of qualifications and any clearances required for the role. Add them all to the file, as they may come in handy if an employee is later found out to have been dishonest about their previous work or employment, advises workplace law expert, John Crussid. When an employee starts within the role, they will often complete induction or an on boarding process. “Keep a record of the induction, so show the employee was properly trained, should this be disputed later down the track,” says John. If you decide to go paperless, ensure you have a back-up of all files, as a technical glitch could potentially leave you exposed. And once you have the the files uploaded and completed, keep them, even after the staff member has long gone, so you can always be prepared if a complaint, question or request for references arises.
going. People mostly succeed rather than fail under pressure.” It’s an interesting way to flip your view of pressure on its head; by not viewing it as a negative, but rather embrace it and see it as an opportunity. Evaluate the challenges and risks you take Evaluation usually gives us the means to handle pressure. Once our minds are clear, we can think of solutions rather than focus solely on the problem itself. “One of the main factors to consider in avoiding pressure is saying ‘no’ as much as you say ‘yes,’ advises Ronda. “If you know that a task can be done, then it will be. If you think it can’t be done, this evaluation gives you the opportunity to turn it around and figure out a way that it can be done.”
Maintain control Your reactions to different challenges are part of the learning process, and can have a knock-on effect as to how other staff in the salon react to the same stresses. It’s sometimes necessary to take a step back and take some time to think about the challenge - whether it’s how to cut costs in the salon, or how to approach staff appraisals. “Make sure to ask the right questions, which will enable you to understand your opportunities better, even in the middle of difficult situations.
Treatment
removes pollution toxins
reoxygenates the skin
100%
OF WOMEN TESTED OBSERVED RADIANT SKIN FRESH COMPLEXION
For further information please contact HAMAYA INTERNATIONAL on: 1300 811 024 OR guinot@hamaya.com.au
COVER STORY
Choose
PLATINIUM
Missing your skincare regime? - Carley Stewart reveals the latest innovation to keep your clients glowing at home.
New asap liquid platinum treatment, the perfect at home treatment! The recent government mandate for beauty therapists to cease treatments caught many of us by surprise and sent shock waves through the beauty industry. While it is a sad reality that it will not be possible for all salons to recover from this catastrophe, there are salons that who are in the fortunate position to use this time to work on their business and create new, innovative ways to continue to service and stay in touch with their loyal customers. This included introducing their clients to personalised home care prescriptions which can be sent directly to client’s homes and DIY home treatments via platforms such as Zoom. However, there are some things that should be taken into consideration when recommending an at home treatment such as; is the prescribed product easy to apply, will it be suitable for my customers skin type and will it achieve great results that my client will love? New asap liquid platinum is an advanced regeneration treatment that brightens and refines skin and is the perfect product to recommend for customers to use at home and delivers incredible results. The user friendly treatment gently dissolves dead skin cells and stimulates collagen production while the low pH delivery system helps to increase the penetration of subsequently applied products. The overnight treatment is suitable for most skin types due to its unique slow release, low irritation, delivery system The multi-action formulation also helps to: • Lock in moisture by strengthening the skin’s barrier function • Reduce the appearance of pigmentation, sun damage, fine lines and wrinkles • Firm, brighten and hydrate the skin
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NEW ASAP LIQUID PLATINUM IS AN ADVANCED REGENERATION TREATMENT THAT BRIGHTENS AND REFINES SKIN AND IS THE PERFECT PRODUCT TO RECOMMEND FOR CUSTOMERS TO USE AT HOME AND DELIVERS INCREDIBLE RESULTS.
LARCH WOOD EXTRACT: Decreases the melanin concentration produced by melanocytes by 73%
COVER STORY
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS INCLUDE:
Not only is asap liquid platinum a great treatment for customers to use at home it can also be incorporated into the following treatments
REGENERATING MASK REQUIRED ITEMS: • small wide brush • small dish • liquid platinum • super A+ serum • super B complex • DNA renewal treatment • ultimate hydration
A potent antioxidant and skin lightening active, Larch Wood Extract protects against DNA damage from oxidative stress while decreasing melanin synthesis. This results in a radiant, smooth and even toned complexion. SACCHARIDE ISOMERATE: Reduces signs of dry skin by up to 20% in 4 weeks
Step One – Mix one pump of super A+ serum, super B complex and DNA renewal treatment Step Two – Add two pumps of ultimate hydration Step Three – gently push down the sides of the well pump on the liquid platinum to fill the well with liquid, then add to the dish. Step Four – apply to face, neck and décolletage using the brush. This is a leave on overnight treatment
CLARIFYING MASK for acne/oily skin type REQUIRED ITEMS: • small wide brush • small dish • liquid platinum • super A+ serum • super B complex
A nourishing, plant derived, skin identical complex that connects perfectly with the skin’s surface layers, locking in moisture like a magnet. It also strengthens the skin’s natural defences, preventing further dehydration. The unique binding formulation connects perfectly with the skin’s surface layers, locking in moisture with visible results within only 3 hours. ARGININE: An essential amino acid and antioxidant that boosts the skins own Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF) and fights skin ageing. Arginine helps to protect the skin from free radical damage and increases skin hydration by acting as a humectant and as an amino acid, boosts collagen production, improving skin firmness and reducing signs of ageing. AHA (GLYCOLIC ACID) COMPLEX: Increases cell turnover by 21%
A unique glycolic acid complex that gently and effectively exfoliates the build-up of dead skin cells, enhancing the penetration of subsequently applied products. Formulated to increase cell turnover by up to 21% and promote collagen production to improve skin texture, elasticity and firmness. The low irritation delivery allows skin to be treated comfortably while you sleep.
Step One – In the dish, mix one pump of super A+ serum and one pump of super B complex Step Two – Gently push down the sides of the well pump on the liquid platinum to fill the well with liquid, then add to the dish and mix with previous ingredients. Step Three – Apply to the face, neck and décolletage. This is a leave on overnight treatment asap skin products produce Australia’s no. 1 cosmeceutical skincare range. It is an innovative, Australian owned company providing the highest quality and effective products for men and women for more than two decades. The Australian made, concise, uncomplicated skincare range is available exclusively through medical and skincare professionals. Scientifically formulated using environmentally friendly ingredients with no parabens, mineral oil, SLS/SLES, artificial fragrances, plastic microbeads or animal derivatives, and are never tested on animals. They continue to innovate, and push the boundaries providing products and ingredients at the cutting edge of scientific development, yet remain true to their core philosophy. n www.asapskinproducts.com 1300 131 970
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AGE LESS Regarded a Holy Grail ingredient of modern anti-aging formulations, retinol is the efficacious form of Vitamin A that ain’t going anywhere.
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LEFT Clinicals Alleviate PM Anti Aging Calming Repair Serum – Clinicals 02 9008 1151 Cosmedix Define Age-Defying Treatment with Hydroxy Acids and Retinol – Advanced Skin Technology 1800 648 851 dermaviduals Vitamin A Nanoparticles Anti-Ageing Skin Care – Derma Aesthetics 02 9960 1300 HydroPeptide Nimni Cream Patented Collagen Support Complex – BLC Cosmetics 1800 659 777 Mesoestetic Post-Peel 1% Retinol Concentrate – Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011 SPACEUTICALS Super Smart Wrinkle Rejuvenator – Waterlily Skin Body and Spa 07 3390 3988 ABOVE asap A+ Super Serum with Retinol – asap skin products 1300 131 970 emerginC Multi-Vitamin + Retonol Serum – INSKIN COSMEDICS 02 9712 8188 Medik8 Crystal Retinal 6 – Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011 Nimue Purifier – Vital Plus 1300 437 638 Pelactiv Vita A Triple Action Cleanser – Pelactiv 02 8422 5000 Ultraderm Rapid Retinol Concentrate – Ultraderm 1300 660 297
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SKINCARE
MAN YOUR Pollution, dust, blue light, and the sun are some of the primary factors in our environment that’s attacking the health of our skin. Here are our weapons of choice.
Alpha-H Hyaluronic 8 – BLC Cosmetics 1800 659 777 Dermaenergy Black Label 3D Clean – Dermaenergy 1300 799 709 DMK Enbioment Mist – DMK 02 8424 6600 Edible Beauty Probiotic Radiance Tonic – Edible Beauty admin@ediblebeautyaustralia.com O Cosmedics Micellar Treatment Gel – INSKIN COSMEDICS 02 9712 8188 Skin Regimen 10.0 Tulsi Booster Nourishing Protective Oil – BLC Cosmetics 1800 659 777 Skin Virtue Future Advanced Eye Serum – Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011 Ultraceuticals Ultra Protective Antioxidant Complex – Ultraceuticals 1800 355 638
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DEFENSE
asap DNA Renewal Treatment – asap skin products 1300 131 970 Aspect Sun Hydrating Face SPF50+ – Advanced Skin Technology 1800 648 851 Dermalist Radiance AllSerum Skin Perfector – Dermalist 0449 950 750 Ginger & Me Neurocosmedics No 8.0 SOS Relief Cream – INSKIN COSMEDICS 02 9712 8188 Mere Phytosphere Bio-Divergent Cleansing Oil Complex – Mere Skincare orders@mereskincare.com Natural Look Immaculate Bioactive Serum – Artav Australia 08 8300 1999 Payot Blue Techni Liss Jour – Payot 02 9874 1166 Teoxane Deep Repair Balm – TEOXANE Australia 02 9327 4899
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ABOUT FACE Rejuvenate dull, lacklustre skin with a face mask (or two).
Babor Doctor Babor Brightening Intense Bright Effect Mask – Hamaya 1800 139 139 Beauté Pacifique Instant Hydrating Mask – Beauté Pacifique 03 9562 0513 Cosmedix Micro Defense Microbiome Sheet Mask – Advanced Skin Technology 1800 648 851 Éminence Snow Mushroom & Reishi Masque – Green Living Collective 07 3357 6277 Kadalys Musaclean Gentle Clarifying Mask – Encore Beauty 1300 770 428 La Mav DNA Phyto-Guard Pink Clay Mask – La Mav 1300 052 628 Sodashi Rejuvenate Plant Essence Replenish Mask – Sodashi 08 9336 6837
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THE GOLD STANDARD
For Body Contouring Head-to-toe Clatuu Alpha fat freezing is the latest and most advanced non-invasive procedure that uses a controlled device to freeze and destroy fat. 360° Surround Cooling Technology unlike the conventional two-side cooling methods, increases efficiency. Depending on the area targeted, your treatment will take between 40-60 minutes.
HOW
SLIMS YOU DOWN
1
3
THE SCOOP ON HOW THE CLATUU ALPHA FREEZES AWAY STUBBORN FAT.
You may struggle with stubborn fat even after jogging and dieting.
5
Remaining fat in the target area becomes leaner and less dense.
2
The CLATUU Alpha suctions your skin and subcutaneous layers.
Cooling energy then freezes fat deposits to induce apoptosis.
4
Crystallized fat cells die off through the body’s natural metabolism.
6
Combine with your healthy regimen to look slimmer and confident.
1300 346 448
info@cryomed.com.au | cryomed.com.au
SKINCARE ActivLayr 5 Second Nano-Collagen Boost Patches for Under-Eyes – Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011 Image Skincare I Mask Hydrating Hydrogel Sheet Mask – Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387 Mesoestetic Pure Renewing Mask – Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011 Mukti Deep Cleanse Antioxidant Masque – Mukti 1300 306 554 Skeyndor MyMask Fruit Jam – Vogue Image Group 1800 554 545 Skinstitut Hydrating Mask – Skinstitut info@skinstitut.com Wrinkles Schminkles InfuseFAST Décolletage Sheet Mask – Wrinkles Schminkles 1300 620 122
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Sculpting With Open Arms truSculpt® iD offers a personalized approach to improve upper arm contouring and definition. There is no placement limitation and in as little as one 15-minute treatment, your patients can open their arms and wear sleeveless shirts with confidence. Other treatment areas include abdomen, flanks, back, and thighs. Learn how truSculpt® iD can revolutionize your business at cutera.com/truSculptiD
Fast | Hands-Free & Hand-Held Versatility | ~24% Fat Reduction
Model; not actual patient. © 2020 Cutera, Inc. All rights reserved. AP2327 rA
Christina Professional Retinol-E Eye Cream Skin Factors 1800 824 282
Pure Fiji Coconut Lip Sleeping Masque Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387
Biologi Lip Serum Biologi 02 6686 3455
ESK Hydroxy Overnight Mask ESK Care 1300 884 875
Clarins Extra-Firming Youthful Lift Neck & Décolleté Care Clarins 1800 861 888
Medik8 Illuminating Eye Balm – Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011
Skeyndor UNIQCURE Mattifying Pore Refiner Concentrate – Vogue Image Group 1800 554 545
Embryolisse Hydra Sérum – Scotty’s Makeup and Beauty 02 9518 9000
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SKINCARE
Sukin Sheer Touch Facial Sunscreen SPF30 Sukin 1300 858 898 Ella Bache Recovery Gel – Hallas Trading 1300 845 259
SPACEUTICALS Super Proof B3 Perfecting Serum – Waterlily Skin Body and Spa 07 3390 3988
Pelactiv Essential Skincare Multi Active B+ Serum Pelactiv 02 8422 5000
James Cosmetics Protect & Glow Silk Face Masks James Cosmetics 0414 391 201
Sisley Black Rose Eye Contour Fluid – Sisley Paris 1300 780 800
Environ Limited Edition 20th Anniversary Gift Box Sensa Skincare 1300 888 708
Dermalogica Invisible Physical Defense SPF 30 Dermalogica 02 8437 9600
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MAKEUP
SWEET CREAMS A cool change can leave powdered complexions looking high and dry. Switch products out for these easy-to-apply cream formulas.
Ben Nye Light Contour Wheel – Scotty’s Makeup and Beauty 02 9518 9000 Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge for Lip & Cheeks in Fresh Melon – Bobbi Brown 1800 304 283 Curtis Collection by Victoria Glam Lipstick in Blush Nude – Curtis Collection 03 9421 5577 Gorgeous Cosmetics iPrime Eyeshadow Base – Salon First 03 8793 6777 Make-Up Studio Durable Lip Contour in Sheer Nude – Make-Up Studio 08 8357 0242 MCo Beauty Cheek & Lip Tint in Dusk – MCoBeauty 02 8354 6700 Napoleon Perdis Wand-er Brow in Brunette Beauty – Napoleon Perdis 1800 860 559 Nee Make Up Chubby Stick in Chocolate – Jessica Cosmetics 1300 470 648 Vime Velvet Matte Lipstick in 05 – Lalisse Australia 03 9419 1022
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Growth Always use Australian compliant tints (with POISON warning from RefectoCil Australia) so you do not compromise your professional liability insurance.
Lash & Brow Aftercare Makes All The Difference The need for aftercare products after regular lash and brow treatments is becoming more important. Just as you wouldn’t leave the hairdresser without a good shampoo, aftercare is designed to be used between appointments to keep lashes and brows looking salon styled long after the appointment. Products such as the RefectoCil Styling Gel, Care Balm and Lash and Brow Booster contain active ingredients such as Vitamin E and Black Seed oil to nourish, moisturise and promote hair growth. Salon tip: create custom aftercare kits to retail to clients for home use. If your client cannot make it to the salon, use the RefectoCil Mini Lash and Brow Styling kit to teach them how to do their lashes and brows from home. For product enquiries including RefectoCil kits contact RefectoCil Australia directly. +61 2 7200 8452 | sales@refectocil-australia.com.au | www.refectocil-australia.com.au
MAKEUP
TAKE COVER Whether a lightweight cream or full-bodied foundation is your glow-to, this line up will have you covered.
asap Pure Skin Perfecting Mineral Foundation SPF15 – asap skin products 1300 131 970 dermaviduals Tinted Day Cream – Derma Aesthetics 02 9960 1300 Gorgeous Cosmetics Base Perfect Liquid Foundation – Salon First 03 8793 6777 Iconic London Pro Evo Buffer Brush in Rose Gold – Luxasia garylgoujon@luxasia.com Jane Iredale Dream Tint Tinted Moisturizer SPF 15 – Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008 Lycogel Breathable Tint SPF 30 – Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011 Thalgo BB Cream Illuminating Multi-Perfection SPF15 – BLC Cosmetics 1800 659 777 Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics Mineral Radiance Moisture Tint – Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387
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LOVE YOUR INDUSTRY VIEWPOINT
Stay in touch TANNING
EXPERT talk
Hold on to that fresh tan feeling, no matter the weather.
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Naked Tan The Original 2 Hour Tan in Ultra Dark Naked Tan 1300 365 683
Tanologist Self Tan Drops in Dark - Tanologist hello@tanologist.com
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
JANINE AKKAD
ELISHA YOUNG
VICTORIA CURTIS
Owner, RefectoCil Australia
Trends Manager, Mintel APAC
Founder, Victoria Curtis Collection
What do you see as one of the biggest beauty trends in 2020? “I think it will be the evolution from natural beauty to clean beauty, bringing the best of nature and science together in ways that are sustainable, safe, and, most importantly, have proven efficacy. Consumers are becoming more aware of the impact their demand for natural ingredients has on the planet, and will start to look to the lab for sustainable options.”
What is one of the biggest challenges you face this year? “Now more than ever we need to be one step ahead of the game and onto new trends in the industry to ensure that we are evolving along with this ever changing environment. Offering the latest treatments and products gives us an edge over our competition, however I recommend doing your research to ensure that the trend is not only seasonal, but will in fact benefit your business and your customers long term. All decisions should be made with this in mind no matter what the industry throws at us. I encourage business owners to stay in their own lane.”
What have you learnt in business? “During my 28 years of owning my own business, my most important lessons have been to be Vita Liberata able to develop Self-Tanning Mist resilience and Encore Beauty become adaptable 1300 770 428 to an ever changing business environment whilst staying true to my core values. Believing in myself and accepting that there will always be criticisms form an integral part of this resilience. Another key lesson is acknowledging that no matter how big or important you become, you are nothing without your team.”
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TOP 3
beauty picks YOUTH IN A JAR Want to know the secret to faking a good night’s rest and younger looking skin – check out AGELESS Total Overnight Retinol Masque – known as botox in a jar – Retinol is delivered deep into the skin to support intensive collagen remodelling. www.imageskincare.com.au
Byron Bay OASIS
MAKEUP MASTERCLASS
Mine Tan Express Self Tan Mousse in Medium -Dark - Marq Group 1300 819 331
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Want to know what’s on the minds of our experts this edition? Anita Quade chats to industry leaders about their inspiration and trends.
SALON VIEW
EXPERT TALK
WAY TO
Glow
Behind Aestheticá’s pretty exterior there’s a team of experts taking a personable and considered approach to their clients’ needs, making this salon a feast both for the eyes… and the skin.
UNIFORM STYLE Dress your salon staff for success with the incredible range from www. springspawear.com.au – made for style and functionality check out the range of tunic work uniforms and wide - crop pants in colours including black, charcoal and grey. They are made to be washed and worn!
BEAUTY & SPA Insiders 2020 FOREVER YOUNGBLOOD
NEW WONDER The blue lotus wax in Clarins’ Wonder Perfect 4D Waterproof Mascara provides a resilient barrier to guard lashes from moisture exposure. Clarins 1800 861 888
Created by Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics’ makeup artist Oriana Repoli for their latest campaign, these three on-trend looks are easier to achieve than you might think!
TAKE A SHORT drive out of Byron Bay’s bustling town centre and onward to Aestheticá – a carefully curated skin care oasis offering corneotherapeutic treatments. The clinic was founded by sisters-in-law Alexa Roetger - a registered nurse, and Kristal Smith – who has a background in beauty therapy and business. Aestheticá’s doors were opened 18 months ago with the goal of removing clients from what Alexa, who is now the salon’s sole owner, describes as the ‘rushed in and out’-style skin treatments happening in Byron. “We really wanted to focus on slowing things down and listening while appreciating dermal therapy and nursing techniques that achieve the best results, without causing undue stress or discomfort,” Alexa explained. To complete the vision, the salon’s interior was curated with a minimalist feel in mind. “Our goal was to create a space which was well thought out and designed to create a sense of calm
SINCE JANUARY, WE HAVE OFFERED CLIENTS FIVE PERCENT OFF THEIR NEXT PRODUCT PURCHASE FOR EMPTIES RETURNED TO CLINIC TO BE RECYCLED BY SUSTAINABLE SALONS. THE TIME FOR CHANGE IS NOW.
TIMELESS ELEGANCE
“This classic look centres around the staple beauty product in every makeup bag – the perfect red lipstick. To achieve this look, I pumped up the shimmery shades on the eyelids and added a red lipstick that complimented each model’s skin tone. Youngblood boasts a range of red lipsticks with warm, cool and neutral undertones – ensuring there’s the perfect red for everyone! For a long-lasting red lip, I recommend prepping lips with our Stay Put Eye Primer to ensure staying power and strong colour payoff, and lining lips with our ‘Truly Red’ Lip Liner before applying your lipstick.”
Following on from the success of last year’s inaugural BEAUTY & SPA Insiders summit we heard the call for more. This year the industry event is back with a stellar lineup of speakers to help educate and inspire. We take a look at two speakers on the programme. Photographer: Amanda Harvie | Makeup Direction: Carina Rodriguez | Hair: Alyssa Gonzalez
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1300 819 331 -Dark - Marq Group Tan Mousse in Medium Mine Tan Express Self
Naked Tan 1300 365 683 Tan in Ultra Dark Original 2 Hour Naked Tan The
hello@tanologist.com Drops in Dark - Tanologist Tanologist Self Tan
your team.”
1300 770 428 are nothing without Encore Beauty youMist become, you Self-Tanning Vita Liberata big or important
in their own lane.” business owners to stay at us. I encourage what the industry throws this in mind no matter should be made with long term. All decisions and your customers benefit your business seasonal, but will in fact the trend is not only research to ensure that recommend doing your competition, however I us an edge over our and products gives the latest treatments environment. Offering with this ever changing we are evolving along industry to ensure that onto new trends in the ahead of the game and we need to be one step “Now more than ever you face this year? biggest challenges What is one of the
Photographer: Amanda Harvie | Makeup Direction: Carina Rodriguez | Hair: Alyssa Gonzalez
Clarins 1800 861 888 lashes from moisture exposure. provides a resilient barrier to guard Perfect 4D Waterproof Mascara The blue lotus wax in Clarins’ Wonder NEW WONDER
YOUNGBLOOD FOREVER
latest campaign, these three on-trend looks are easier to achieve than you might think! Created by Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics’ makeup artist Oriana Repoli for their
HORDES OF SALON owners and managers, clinicians, cosmetic nurses and beauty-industry spectators have had May 25 penciled in their diary since the announcement of the 2020 BEAUTY & SPA Insiders event. And now, early-bird ticket sales and registration are officially open. Those that register early for the highly anticipated event will secure their ticket for $295, pocketing a saving of $100. Brought to you by Australia’s leading B2B magazines for the aesthetics industry, Professional Beauty and SPA + CLINIC, BEAUTY & SPA Insiders brings together industry Australia experts forCurtis a day of inspiring talks, innovative ideas, and Mintel APAC RefectoCil Collection Trends Manager, Founder, Victoria Owner, engaging conversations. YOUNG AKKAD CURTIS ELISHA JANINE VICTORIA owner of Skin By Sarah Hudson will be Sarah Hudson, the MC of the BEAUTY & SPA Insiders programme taking place at Woolloomooloo’s Ovolo. Attendees will be treated to presentations by the industry’s most respected identities for a inspiration and trends. day of talks and panels. Among the speakers will be Victoria edition? Anita Quade chats to industry leaders about their Curtis, founder of Victoria Curtis Cosmetics; director of Want to know what’s on the minds of our experts this education at Dermalogica, Emma Hobson; founder of Fitness that no matter how is acknowledging Another key lesson of this resilience. an integral part be criticisms form there will always and accepting that Believing in myself to my core values. whilst staying true business environment to an ever changing become adaptable resilience and able to develop have been to be important lessons business, my most of owning my own “During my 28 years learnt in business? What have you
sustainable options.” to look to the lab for planet, and will start ingredients has on the demand for natural of the impact their becoming more aware Consumers are have proven efficacy. most importantly, sustainable, safe, and, in ways that are and science together the best of nature clean beauty, bringing natural beauty to the evolution from “I think it will be in 2020? beauty trends one of the biggest What do you see as
applying your lipstick.” strong colour payoff, and lining lips with our ‘Truly Red’ Lip Liner before prepping lips with our Stay Put Eye Primer to ensure staying power and the perfect red for everyone! For a long-lasting red lip, I recommend red lipsticks with warm, cool and neutral undertones – ensuring there’s complimented each model’s skin tone. Youngblood boasts a range of up the shimmery shades on the eyelids and added a red lipstick that makeup bag – the perfect red lipstick. To achieve this look, I pumped “This classic look centres around the staple beauty product in every
EMMA HOBSON Director of Education Asia Pacific Dermalogica and The International Dermal Institute
IS NOW. SALONS. THE TIME FOR CHANGE RECYCLED BY SUSTAINABLE RETURNED TO CLINIC TO BE PURCHASE FOR EMPTIES OFF THEIR NEXT PRODUCT OFFERED CLIENTS FIVE PERCENT SINCE JANUARY, WE HAVE was well thought out and designed to create a sense of calm a minimalist feel in mind. “Our goal was to create a space which To complete the vision, the salon’s interior was curated with undue stress or discomfort,” Alexa explained. nursing techniques that achieve the best results, without causing things down and listening while appreciating dermal therapy and happening in Byron. “We really wanted to focus on slowing owner, describes as the ‘rushed in and out’-style skin treatments removing clients from what Alexa, who is now the salon’s sole Aestheticá’s doors were opened 18 months ago with the goal of Smith – who has a background in beauty therapy and business. by sisters-in-law Alexa Roetger - a registered nurse, and Kristal offering corneotherapeutic treatments. The clinic was founded and onward to Aestheticá – a carefully curated skin care oasis TAKE A SHORT drive out of Byron Bay’s bustling town centre
TIMELESS ELEGANCE
and not be considered your typical ‘beauty/injectables’ clinic which can be cold… we made sure that when you walk into our clinic there is an instant sense of calm and warmth.” Florals, dried palm spears and hessian bowls are set against crisp white walls, and Roman arches carve out a hallway leading to private treatment rooms. “Our interior has become a main focus for our clinic with pictures shared on various platforms every day. [It has] definitely contributed to our very fast growth.” Staff also dress in white linens to provide a relaxed alternative to a traditional clinical uniform. The Aestheticá team are trained to service clients of all ages with a carefully curated skin care regime. “Each and every one of our treatment pathways is tailored to the individual. After all, every skin is a unique fingerprint.” The team of eight dermal therapists are trained in corneotherapy and have forgone the use of lasers in favour of a simple treatment menu that is entirely customisable. “Our vast range of education over both beauty and nursing industries meant we wanted to offer great skin treatments, a holistic approach to skin heath and real results,” Alexa said, “which is why we settled with customised skin treatments and cosmetic injectables.” The salon chose to work with skincare brand, dermaviduals. “From the start we were on the hunt for an amazing skincare company with incredible results and support for a new little business like ours.” Alexa explained that they had felt supported by the brand from the get-go – “the education we received, although a very steep learning curve, was second to none. As we also use MAX LED in our clinic and were fortunate enough
we also use MAX LED in our clinic and were fortunate enough although a very steep learning curve, was second to none. As by the brand from the get-go – “the education we received, business like ours.” Alexa explained that they had felt supported company with incredible results and support for a new little “From the start we were on the hunt for an amazing skincare The salon chose to work with skincare brand, dermaviduals. treatments and cosmetic injectables.” Alexa said, “which is why we settled with customised skin treatments, a holistic approach to skin heath and real results,” and nursing industries meant we wanted to offer great skin customisable. “Our vast range of education over both beauty of lasers in favour of a simple treatment menu that is entirely therapists are trained in corneotherapy and have forgone the use every skin is a unique fingerprint.” The team of eight dermal of our treatment pathways is tailored to the individual. After all, with a carefully curated skin care regime. “Each and every one The Aestheticá team are trained to service clients of all ages traditional clinical uniform. also dress in white linens to provide a relaxed alternative to a [It has] definitely contributed to our very fast growth.” Staff our clinic with pictures shared on various platforms every day. treatment rooms. “Our interior has become a main focus for walls, and Roman arches carve out a hallway leading to private dried palm spears and hessian bowls are set against crisp white clinic there is an instant sense of calm and warmth.” Florals, which can be cold… we made sure that when you walk into our and not be considered your typical ‘beauty/injectables’ clinic
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and the skin. considered approach to their clients’ needs, making this salon a feast both for the eyes… Behind Aestheticá’s pretty exterior there’s a team of experts taking a personable and
Byron Bay OASIS
beauty picks
WEIV NOLAS
KLAT TREPXE
GNINNAT
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THE ISSUE OF CHANGE With salons in lockdown the beauty industry has been forced to reinvent the way they operate. Anita Quade chats to industry leaders about their plan for the future ahead.
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MARGUERITE CAPEZIO CO-FOUNDER & DIRECTOR, THE STARTUP COLLECTIVE COMPANY
MARIA ENNA-COCCIOLONE CEO & FOUNDER, INSKIN COSMEDICS
Tell us how you are coping in this changing environment? “We are all working remotely and we are thankful for technology and the internet! We had our “Switch It On” seminar in Melbourne scheduled for this September, however, we’ve had to postpone it till 2021. In light of this, we are preparing to have online virtual mini seminars and demonstrations focusing more on product and brand development. This will allow us to continue to engage with our audience until we can get back to doing our “real life” work.”
Tell us how you are coping in this changing environment? “In a time of crisis, one is never sure how they will respond and as leaders Mario and I have been open and honest with our INSKIN team and partners. Standing down 80% of our team was our darkest day, tears were shed, uncertainties shared, and heartache felt. I founded INSKIN 12 years ago with a motto, “There is no room for failure” and this is the exact philosophy we will continue to adopt today. We take strength in the fact that these are temporary measures and when this is over, we will come back stronger. Our tribe, our team and partners are united and together we will rebuild when the time comes.”
What strategies have you put in place to cope with the changing industry? “In our business, we assist startups who are wanting to create their own personal care range or are looking to grow their range and market. This is actually a wonderful time to put plans into action! All these aspects of product and brand development take time, so now is the time to: • • • • • • • •
Research for your business (target market, costs etc) Start product development Source raw materials and packaging Conduct product trials (clinical trials are unavailable at this time due to one on one contact) Work out your marketing, labels and design and website Production upscale and regulatory requirements Understanding other aspects of business such as trademarking and insurance Product distribution
So if you wanted to start your own line or you have a product you want to create, it will take a while to have everything in order ready for your launch - do your homework now and you can be ready to go by 2021. Any advice to other businesses out there during this challenging time? “We are in a situation which affects every single one of us, we are all in the same boat. I think to keep engagement with your clientele is paramount - this can be through self-help videos, tutorials or even some light hearted fun facts. Work on your business, your model, now is the time to change, add or subtract from it. Do the things you have put off or avoided due to lack of time. When this is all over, you’d want your customers to come back to you, remind them you are still here. Most importantly, keep your chin up and be kind to yourself and your staff... we’ve been forced to slow down, use this time to your advantage and find the silver lining in the cloud. I read a wonderful quote “In the rush to return to normal, use this time to consider which parts of normal are worth rushing back to” - Dave Hollis. www.thestartupcollective.com.au
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What strategies have you put in place to cope with the changing beauty industry? “INSKIN COSMEDICS revenue is dependent on clinics and with the lock down of clinics like them our business has pretty much come to a grinding halt. The first days we considered measures that in fairness did not align with what we stand for; they would have been more reactive than considerate decisions. I am a big believer of “the decisions you take today are the consequences you will need to live with tomorrow”. This too will pass, and we need to ensure we have looked after our number one distribution channel. At the same time, our partners understand we need to save our brands too. Given we have a strong online presence but do not promote online sales, (we have always left this to the clinics), we have presented a number of options to our partners that will help them sell online without compromising our salon only philosophy. Over and above INSKIN is going to step up our online offer and presence to recruit new customers to the brand. From a trade perspective we are committed to an extensive education “PAUSE PROGRAM” which will support our partners learning, confidence and development. In the next days (over and above), we will be launching a collaborative industry event that will guide business owners formally and strategically allowing them to plan their relaunch for when this is over.” Any advice to other businesses out there during this challenging time? “The doors have closed, the business has not. Stay close to your database, help them to upgrade their homecare regimes in order to maintain their skin goals. Use your social media platforms to inspire and train your guests; teach them how to look after their skin, mind and body at home. Most importantly, do not put professional peels or tools into the consumers hands, because when this is over you need them to return to your clinic for their treatments (not to mention your insurance will not cover you if something goes wrong).” inskincosmedics.com | ocosmedics.com
BELINDA MERLINO DIRECTOR, SKIN CLINIC Tell us how you are coping in this changing environment? “On Monday 25th March, before the government ordered to shut down our industry I decided to voluntarily close The Skin Clinic. I made this decision together with my team in the best interest of my team, our clients and all of our families. I could see a lot of back lash on social media around staying open, as even with all measures taken we could not adhere to social distancing. How did I cope with this decision? To be honest I cried from morning to night, I never thought I would ever choose to close my doors and cancel all clients booked for treatments. I felt I was failing my staff, even though they reassured me I was acting in their best interests. Having to stand down my supportive team broke my heart.” What strategies have you put in place to cope with the changing beauty industry? “After closing I decided to strip my shelves and bring my entire retail floor home, and heavily promote our retail items directly to our guests. The silver lining in all of this for The Skin Clinic is that our retail floor is 40% of our business, so having a very healthy retail floor has given me some comfort that I will still be able to bring in some revenue even while we are temporarily closed. I have diverted the clinic phone to my mobile, I have been remaining active across social media, I have engaged the services of a courier company to dispatch all orders direct to their door and offering a free gift with
every purchase. We are working behind the scenes creating some video content and devising at home treatments that our clients can do at home. Our suppliers Inskin Cosmedics have been amazing in providing online training during our shut down. We have made a commitment to use this time to revise our product knowledge and treatment protocols for our return.” Any advice to other businesses out there during this challenging time? “I think we all need to check in on each other. Business owners need to keep in contact with their teams to see how they are coping, check in on other salon owners to check in on how they are coping, check in with our clients to see how they are coping. It’s a strange and difficult time, and our mental health is just as important as our physical health. And for me, it’s all about planning for our return, as quickly as we were told we couldn’t operate, the announcement to return to work will hopefully be just as swift! Have your return to work announcements and strategies in place so that we can seamlessly have our team and our clients return to our clinic and get back to performing our treatments! Ask for team members to commit to extra hours on return, I feel our clients will be running back to see us and we will be overwhelmed with demand for our services.” www.theskinclinic.com.au
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TALKING POINT SIMONE VESCIO CO FOUNDER, DERMA AESTHETICS Tell us how you are coping in this changing environment? “Our industry is full of amazing people with big hearts who are focused on health and wellness - when times are uncertain and changing, it is important for us to do all that we can to help each other. In business, it is persistence and tenacity that will prevail. We will ALL do what we need to do to help each other out; anything. Everyone wants to get back to their local shops! Sure, people are making online purchases out of necessity, but I truly believe that as soon as we get the green light, people will be out in force to support local and appreciate the small things with so much gratitude. The personal touch will always be well received. Kindness and compassion are leading the way in this changing environment. At Derma Aesthetics, we are focusing on mentoring our clinic owners and supporting them however we can. Our partners have really pulled together during this uncertain time - you can see them brainstorming ideas and sharing the highs, as well the lows, in our Derma Family Facebook group. Encouraging out of the box thinking on how our partner clinics can add value to their clients while they spend so much time alone at home is a big part of my day at the moment! One of our company core values is positivity, which seems essential in the creative process at the moment! Everyday our team is looking for ways to help our clients and industry colleagues to create new ways of doing things, despite the ever-changing environment. We’re lucky to have a team that cares for our partners as deeply as they do.” What strategies have you put in place to cope with the changing beauty industry? “To support our partners clinics, we released the Derma Stimulus Package, where our clients received a discount on their account balances and can also save on product purchases made. By all accounts, this made a big difference to our partners. We have also made education easily accessible online, so our partners can use this time to refresh their knowledge or learn something new! We’ve got lots webinars and podcasts in the works, where we are collaborating with an array of experts in fields such as business, marketing and skin. We are encouraging our clinics to conduct online or phone consultations and provide product deliveries. By not allowing online
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sales, dermaviduals users still need to go through their favourite dermaviduals clinic to purchase their products, which is a wonderful guarantee in these uncertain times. Online consultations keeps our skin treatment therapists as the experts and allows for skin journeys to remain largely uninterrupted for the consumer. For our clinics that were/are unsure of this practice, our BDMs are spending time with them to train them, after all the virtual clinic is the new norm! If doctors are doing it, why can’t you? Initial reports on the fashion and luxury categories since the outbreak of COVID-19 states that transactions have largely stayed ahead of their 2019 numbers (source: criteo.com), which reminds us that our clients want to feel good. Make this easy for them by consulting with them while they are self-isolating at home and having their favourite products delivered to their doorstep! A lot of our partner clinics are also providing home care facial packs, with detailed tutorials on how to use them - another great way to keep your clients engaged with their skin treatment plan! If you’re offering online consultations, ensure your digital presence reflects this. Update your website homepage, your social media channels and keep reminding your clients that you are still there for them! Connection is irreplaceable - now more than ever.” Any advice to other businesses out there during this challenging time? “What we are seeing unfold in the world is just so unfair! Part of the challenge is no one knows how long this will be for, but one has to think the closures may just last months. This will mean acting very quickly to reduce costs and not waiting to see what is around the corner. From heart-wrenching discussions with staff about taking leave - or leave without pay, to seeking rental hibernations from landlords, moratoriums on any lease payments and trimming every cost you can, whilst thinking of new ways to pivot and adapt your revenue stream all has to be done in this instant. We are in uncharted waters and I most certainly don’t have all the answers but we are doing our best to be on our best game. Communicate with your clients - let them know you are still open for business. Whilst largely at home, your call to discuss their skin health will be welcomed. Add tips they can do to tweak their home care - they will doubly appreciate the effort you go to in clinic next time around when they can go back to having you look after their complete needs in clinic. Keep your social media presence up - now is not the time to go quiet! I mentioned earlier how important connection is right now and I cannot stress it enough. If you’ve been hesitant to get on camera, now is the time to work through that fear. Your clients may need to be reminded that there is a human behind your business that is not only there for their skin needs but also needs the support of their clientele. Consider collaborating with other local businesses to offer isolation packs with a twist! When you have quiet time in your business, work on it - review business plans, adapt marketing strategies, update treatments and treatment menus and ensure your policies and procedures are up to date and relevant. This way, when things return to normal, you’ll hit the ground running! Just remember, we’re in this together and we’re stronger together.” www.dermaviduals.com
LYDIA JORDANE FOUNDER, LYCON COSMETICS Tell us how you are coping in this changing environment? “We are still open and all working, some from home. With Beauty Melbourne being postponed, we have decided to offer our specials to the industry to help keep salons and wholesalers well stocked. We realise salons are now closed, however we hope there will be a surge of appointments as soon as salons are allowed to reopen after COVID-19.” What strategies have you put in place to cope with the changing beauty industry? “It is very difficult to put a strategy in place when things are drastically changing day by day. At LYCON we are lucky enough to be in position to continue manufacturing and working as normal. We are taking steps to ensure that we are here on the other side of this pandemic so we can continue to provide to and support our industry.” Any advice to other businesses out there during this challenging time? “It is still too early for us to know how this crisis will affect the industry. This is a great opportunity for professionals in the industry to focus on up-skilling and refining their skills. Many training organisations offer online training courses in sales and business management, this could help a salon regain momentum once salons are allowed to reopen. Even re-reading your old beauty school textbooks to refresh and update knowledge to ensure that when we come out the other side of this pandemic the industry is stronger and more well informed than ever before. Selling retail products has always been a great way to boost salon profits, now that therapists can no longer offer services in the salon it is more important than ever for our clients to have a good home care regime.” www.lycon.com.au
GAY WARDLE FOUNDER, GAY WARDLE EDUCATION AND SKINENERGY Tell us how you are coping in this changing environment? “Everyone reacts differently to stressful situations, what works for some might not work for others. I think it is important to keep up to date with news updates but I also think we need to take a break and do some fun things. So much about the coronavirus is outside of our control. Not just the virus itself, but all of the other aspects of life that have been impacted, from work, socializing, travel and finances. I think we need to give ourselves credit for coping with this tough time and recognize that dealing with this challenge can make you more resilient.” What strategies have you put in place to cope with the changing beauty industry? “What I have loved seeing is the industry supporting each other. As hard as things are, it can be comforting to know that you are not alone and that others have the same feelings as yourself. I think it is important that we reflect on what skills we have used in the past that helped us cope with uncertainty and focus on that. Learn a new skill whether that be meditation, some kind of art just something that will spark an interest.” Any advice to other businesses out there during this challenging time? “Plan to re-open your doors. Have a strategy and a plan in place on how you will position your business. Now is a great time to make changes that you probably have wanted to make for a long time. Add new services “Boost your Thymus and Immune System”. Change something in the salon, it could be new waiting chairs or put the in a different area. Redesign the reception area, paint the salon. Plan your opening event. You obviously cannot have a date but you can plan it so when you can reopen you are ready to launch “the new you”. Take time out for further education. But above all look after your well being, stay safe, exercise and get out outside in the garden.” www.gaywardle.com
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EMMA HOBSON DIRECTOR OF EDUCATION, DERMALOGICA Tell us how you are coping in this changing environment? “Our first and foremost concern and focus has been centred around our customers’ wellbeing and that of our staff. Our Dermalogica tribe has taken a huge hit, and we feel it is our responsibility to support them in any way we possibly can. We have implemented both phase one and now phase two of our customer support program with phase three to come shortly. Having a flexible, agile and dynamic workforce means we have been able to respond quickly to their ever-evolving needs even if that support is being delivered primarily from each staff members home. Our sales and customer service team have been incredible working on the ‘front-line’ to contact our customers, providing reassurance and a wealth of business and financial support. Having education as our company foundation has proven to be our rock in this crisis. We have been able to quickly provide the necessary guidance and training tools centred around how they can ‘digitally’ keep customer engagement and retail sales high in addition to supporting their staff and their wellbeing. To support our customers, our distribution centre remains operational adhering to strict hygiene disciplines. We are incredibly proud of our team who work in our warehouse who are keeping the lifeblood of our business operations.” What strategies have you put in place to cope with the changing beauty industry? “I am pleased to say the list is long and includes but not limited to the following: • Postponement of all salon price increases • Optional diversion of deliveries to a residential address • Financial tips for managing the impact: Finance Manager to present ‘Effectively Plan Your Cash Flows’ training plus ‘How to take full advantage of government subsidies and support’. • Affiliate product sales program designed to support our accounts through these uncertain times. Plus an additional support for their customers with a 15% discount off the RRP of Dermalogica products. • Increased payment terms by an additional 30 days. • Three-fold increase per day of d-stream workshops (webinars) • Any laid-off staff from a Dermalogica account can still have access to our ‘private’ education offerings to support their skill development over the next six months. • Extended expert accreditation for current experts to the end of 2021 with full benefits. • PST Global Webinar hosted by our team in LA : In This Together, Part 1 and 2 already aired; Professional Skin Care Business Seminar with industry leaders from skin care, marketing, social, HR, wellbeing experts focusing on business guidance through the Coronavirus Pandemic • Sponsoring a Business Chicks x Dermalogica All Stars Event featuring Jane Wurwand directing all sales to our salon partners via the affiliates program! Go to businesschicks.com/business-chicks-all-stars • ‘Coffee Chat’. These sessions are informal, informative and supportive chats for our tribe members to connect with us and each other, a place where we can share current best practices on an array of subjects and talk through any challenges you are facing. Please contact your Business Consultant for more information on these.
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• New micro-learning modules created for IDI and Dermalogica learning platforms • A plethora of support materials and videos, how-to’s etc. created for social media • Online Consultation Platform to stay connected with your clients, personalising their skin care needs, grow your client base and support your ongoing sales.” Any advice to beauty businesses? “Business owners often say, “they never have time to work on their business as they are too busy working in their business”. Well NOW is that time. There is much to be done, digital engagement to be moved to the next level with a plan as to how you will continue to drive this when the business is back fully operationally. A marketing plan to be created for your reopening. Staff development plans. Revaluating what’s profitable and what’s not, what’s working and what’s not and change before re opening; poorly selling treatments, protocols that just don’t work, perhaps new menus to be written, treatment promotions and courses to be planned, re-merchandising your stock, stock assessment, staff rostering, the list goes on! You also need to ensure your current retail stock is not just sitting on your shelves – this is ‘dead money’ so ensure to sell this through to your customers ASAP. We can look at this as an opportunity to have the time to revaluate, reignite and re-energise all that you do, to ensure you come out stronger and fitter the other side.” www.dermalogica.com.au
CHIZA WESTCARR FOUNDER, NUTRITIONAL SKINCARE ACADEMY Tell us how you are coping? “It has blindsided us all but I am looking at it as a new opportunity to do things a little differently because we have no choice! I choose to remain positive despite also taking a massive hit.” What strategies have you put in place? “Routine is so important. I wake up at the same time that I always have, go for my walk, have a shower and get dressed. I then sit down at my computer and begin to work on what goals I have mapped out the night before.” Any advice to other businesses? “We will get through this. It is an opportunity to start planning for when we do. We all have the chance to re-invent ourselves and move to the next level (whatever that is to each of us). Spruce up the work space, or clinic, give the website a makeover. I think that with thes Government stimulus packages, we are all feeling a little lighter and can breathe a little easier. I have no idea when we can get back to work, but I know that we will be alright. I choose to look for the silver lining.” www.nutritionalskincareacademy.com
DR IRENE PRANTALOS FORMULATOR AND DIRECTOR, SALUBRE COSMECEUTICALS Tell us how you are coping in this changing environment? “It has been a stressful time as its not only the impact specific shutdowns have had but its people’s fear and anxiety that has also impacted our business. As a Chinese Medicine practitioner we are considered an essential business however the cosmetic acupuncture element (more beauty related) of our business doesn’t seem to be as requested. Nevertheless, we have taken our business online to allow those still looking for help for their health ailments to have it readily available while still being in self-isolation. What strategies have you put in place to cope with the changing beauty industry? “In the clinic, we ensure our environment is kept hygienically clean. After each patient the linen is changed, surfaces are cleaned with anti-septic agents and the door handle of the consultation door is cleaned both inside and outside. In the waiting room, the surfaces such as the front desk, hicaps keypad and the door hands (both inside and outside) are cleaned after each patient enters and leaves. Additionally, we have moved many consultations online and posting out treatments for those seeking help. We are conducting skin assessments via Zoom to help clients choose the right skincare for their skin concerns. Regularly sending out newsletters with updates and information on how to improve immunity and what can be done if signs appear. Most importantly we are conducting our business and our conversations in a calm rational tone as this is essential for everyone’s wellbeing. Making the changes to our business has been done so that impact to our patient’s health is minimal during these very uncertain times.”
Any advice to other businesses out there during this challenging time? “The biggest piece of advice is to remain calm and avoid any conversation around fear. Everything will be okay and we will be back to normal. Yes it can lead to the closure of some businesses and the impact to a person’s financial situation but coming from a place of fear stops your ability in problem solving. The best ideas come to us when we are calm, so meditating will help you process this unprecedented situation and will inadvertently help you look at other ways you can increase your income streams. On that note, what are your skills, how can you increase your income streams in other areas beside face to face contact with clients. Online workshops are great, do remote skin assessments to help clients with making the right decision with suitable skincare. You can update your website, continue on marketing yourself and your salon. When this is over you will be in people’s mind when they need your help as they continued to see your presence online and in their socials. Perhaps collaborate with other like minded businesses to create competitions to increase your database and social following. Do you have products that are a great care package during this time. People are bored so they will be picking their face after eating too much sugar/choc – especially easter is just around the corner and our supermarkets are filled with chocolate eggs. There is a lot of content you can get out there to connect with your clients when before you may have had little time to do. You could also create a content planner for 2020 and get that up and running so when its time you can implement it as its ready to go. As you can see there is so much work to do even if you aren’t in your salon. So use this time to build your business up and get all the paper work you’ve been avoiding done.” www.salubre.com.au
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TALKING POINT REBECCA MILLER THE SKIN WHISPERER FOUNDER, LA BELLA MEDISPA Tell us how you are coping in this changing environment? “Wow if you had of told me a month ago our La Bella Medispa’s along with every other beauty skin and laser clinics would be shut down in Australia I would have thought you were crazy. But its happened and as leaders we have to adapt to change and create confidence in a time of great uncertainty especially with our teams and to have a contiguous plan for all stages and communicating this with our teams early and often and plan for the biggest come back when the time is right. Courageous leadership is needed with a plan to navigate through this crisis and I guess any future crises, important decisions need to be made and we must rise to the challenge rise above the chaos and see the innovation and collaboration opportunities and transform to a new way of delivering our business and connecting with our teams our clients and supporting our beauty sisters as we are all in this together. I know for myself personally 3 skin laser beauty clinics and over 20 girls this has been my biggest challenge in business so far. Standing down my amazing team has been heart breaking but essential they have been so supportive and completely understanding to the survival of our businesses. We are now in the planning our bounce back stronger than ever.” What strategies have you put in place to cope with the changing beauty industry? “We have really been working hard the last few years on the digital, automation and content creation building my person brand (the skin whisperer) part of our business which I feel has really been a positive with the Carona crisis we are faced with but it has really forced us to adopt the mindset to thrive instead of just survive. We are blessed to have massive following and very connected to our clients and audience on line with the pivoting of our business. We are lucky we have a private group, skin care programs, product
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subscriptions, podcast already in place before crisis but we have now launched our La Bella home series including videos which we worked on around the clock from shut down to launch was 36 hours so we move very quickly and we have increased our on line part of our business by 3000% already. We are having team brain dumps to find innovative ideas for us to continuously be thinking outside the box. We are showing up on all social platforms multiple times a day authentically getting our audience attention and having a solution to they’re problems my point being if you are not utilising social platforms you will be left behind don’t be afraid tell your story you are why people come to your business so start connecting on line. We have JV with industry product houses to bring exclusive webinar, masterclass and online tutorials. There is always a way and if you can’t find one create it.” Any advice to other business out there during these challenging times? “Take a moment to sit back breath and know that this will pass. Take the opportunity to pause replenish and enjoy your time with your loved ones, we all know this is something we all long for so embrace the moment. This is a great time to reflect on your business and fill the gaps lets face it we have time now. So if you have wanted a website start creating one, if you have wanted to up skill then this is the perfect time, conserve capital, minimise risk, review cash flow budgets and monitor financial reporting including rebuilding a war chest incase heaven forbid something happens like this again in the future. Check in regularly with your team not just by text but Zoom catch up make them feel like they are still part of the dream and its just a pause moment. Start planning for the biggest come back the world has ever seen and if you are not present on social now is your time. If you need support I’m happy to chat along with many other beauty and skin professional going through exactly the same thing.. You are not alone.” www.labellamedispa.com.au
YVETTE WYETH FOUNDER, ACTIVE SKIN AND PROFESSIONAL SKIN THERAPIST
Tell us how you are coping in this changing environment? “This ever changing situation can bring up feelings of helplessness, sleepless nights and heartbreak... it’s only natural. The best way I can cope is to focus on the positives each day with gratitude, and find ways to help others whilst staying safe. A simple phone call to a loved one, text to an elderly neighbour and squeezing my girls that little bit tighter helps keep my mind focused knowing we will get through this, day by day.” What strategies have you put in place to cope with the changing beauty industry? “Over the 21 years of owning a salon there have been some challenges but nothing like this. My team are at the front of my mind as we close our salon doors and adopt strict safety procedures in our warehouse. They are essentially extended family and it is my responsibility to keep them safe and well supported at work. We have offered salon staff redeployment into the warehouse team and implemented staggered shifts, work-from-home arrangements for administration staff and extra spacing throughout our premises all in the name of
social distancing. We have always maintained the highest hygiene practices however these too have been elevated. Our customers also must remain assured that their orders remain lovingly packed and sent on time or prepared for a touch-free sanitised Click & Collect service. We are working hard and literally evolving daily by adhering to the government’s advice, which I feel is all we can plan for right now.” Any advice to other businesses out there during this challenging time? “Deep breaths (and often)... we will get through this together. We are so blessed to call Australia home and have such a huge community surrounding us. We know how to shop local, lend a helping hand and practice small acts of kindness daily. Every small action made compounds to meaningful change for businesses and communities. This situation calls for us all to stay optimistic and look to others in need so we can look forward to life after this challenge. Think outside the box, use this time for upskilling or redloy your team into other areas of your business if possible.” www.Activeskin.com.au
BUSINESS
Reset the mindset
IN A NEW WORLD As we embark on a journey into the unknown there is a lot of mixed emotions especially throughout our beloved beauty industry. Otto Mitter reveals how to reimagine your business. OUR INDUSTRY HAS been threatened, it has been taken away from us and there is a light at the end of the tunnel, but there are questions that remain “How long is that tunnel and when will it end?” “What will my new normal be?” It is one of the most challenging times we have had to face, but it is within these times that true leaders emerge, our community comes together and we find ourselves digging deep which often allows us to come up with our very best offerings. My company has been in the beauty industry 25 years this year, we had so many grand plans for our 25th birthday and now that has all changed. It is heartbreaking, it is frightening and it’s completely unprecedented. The feelings I have are much the same as everyone working in our beloved industry, no matter how big or small your business is, we are all in the same boat and we all come back to the point “We are all in this together”. I spent a few days trying to process the reality of what has transpired, I reached out to many industry friends just to connect and share ideas, we did live webinars to share emotions and of course a few tears. As we all know our industry is not the only one to be affected in a shut down scenario, our feelings and thoughts are with everyone throughout the world as we are all connected through this COVID-19 journey. As a mentor in the industry my role is to help inspire and support whenever and however I can and after an initial time of processing everything, I knew that it was time to get on with the show and essentially get ready for the new norm and the next stage of the journey. Some days it’s hard to always lead the way, some days we all need a moment of reflection so that we can feel those moments of vulnerability and only from there do we truly cherish the feeling of inspiration and the power of positivity and influence. You do have a choice about how to move forward when something crazy happens around
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you. This is one of the hardest things to master emotionally, but nevertheless, we do have a choice, we just need to get to that point where we feel strong enough to make those choices. In this situation we can look at China and South Korea and we can see that things are starting to get better there and businesses are going back to the norm, I do have many colleagues that I work with there and they tell me every day that things are getting better, so I have to take this as positive news and I need to analyse that and make some plans for what will be our new norm and get ready for that moment of when things WILL get back to normal in the beauty industry. For my salon owner friends and supplier friends I have a few things that I’m working on that I’d like to share, that I think will be productive and beneficial in this moment so that we have everything in place and we can hit the ground running, because you’ll need to be as I predict a surge on all things beauty once we have the green light.
Reset and deep clean Take a look at the work space, your office, your salon rooms and clean everything down – really well. As beauty therapists and professionals we understand how important it is to have a sterile salon environment, but this needs to be a deep clean, not only for the sterilisation side of things, it’s also to do with your mindset and having a fresh start. Reset everything in your room so that you feel like a new business and that everything is of showroom quality and then have professional photos taken of your space to show clients on social media exactly what they can expect to be in when they get to come back for services. Your clients are going to be laying down in that bed or chair and we want them feeling like that space is safer than ever before and that is represents everything your brand or business offers, maybe it’s luxury, maybe it’s medical, maybe it’s calming and tranquil, but whatever it is, make sure it’s telling a story of your pristine space and about how amazing it will be when they come back to visit you when things go back to normal.
Review your views and policies Whether we like this or not, there’s a good chance that things are going to be a little different now, after many major events that impact the world there is always a period of change in the way we do things to ensure safety and the best outcomes for everyone concerned. For example, there could be a chance that all clients may need to wear a mask for a while, all your team and yourself
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may need to wear a mask and gloves when performing services, for some of us we already wear masks, but for some of us that don’t, it can feel a bit strange when we have to change what we are used to. Here’s the thing though, we may have no choice and we just have to get on board and make it as natural as possible. One of the best ways to combat these awkward moments are to be reassuring to your client and give good positive communication, tell them you hope they have they have had a beautiful day, find a positive compliment to give them and break the barrier of the weirdness that you might feel from having to wear a mask or checking their health criteria. We don’t have all the answers yet, but from what we are seeing in China, many places are using these new procedures to ensure safety for the clients and staff alike so that we can all get back to business of making people feel great about themselves.
Blemishes and Tone
BEFORE
Fine Lines and Pigmentation
Time to kick goals Well most of us now have some time on our hands to think about the things we have always wanted to achieve or maybe haven’t thought of yet. One thing for certain is we need to make a goal list and we need to have a clear plan on what we want to do to reach them. We usually look at the stages of how to achieve these by evaluating the “Outcome” what we want at the end. Then we look at the “Process” how we are going to get there and what resources do we need. Then we look at the “Performance” so the key performance indicators that tell us what we need to stick to and achieve the final outcome. You can simply map out a list starting with the outcome and then under that goal write a list of processes that will be required to get there and then add in your performance indicators which will be your flashing signs telling you if you are hitting the mark and what you might need to do to tweak things if you’re not quite on the right track. One thing I have always loved about goal setting is you can see where you are going, you are not just floating along each day waiting for everything to fall into place. You can take action and you can make dreams a reality, goal setting can help you achieve those dreams a lot faster and get you the outcomes you’ve always wanted.
AFTER
Courtesy of Sole Luna Spa, PR - 4 Facials
BEFORE
AFTER
Courtesy of Lash-Angeles, Los Angeles, CA - 1 Facial
Pigmentation and Blemishes
BEFORE
AFTER
Courtesy of Sole Luna Spa, PR - 3 Facials
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Financials under the spotlight Taking a snap shot of the financials is super important and working out how to make the most of your income or savings or how you will get back on track once the doors are open. Make sure you take advantage of any government subsidies available to you, such as loans and have a budget in place for each week and no what you need to be making in order to get this train back on the tracks. Look at any good retail lines that are an easy add on to treatments that you offer to help boost that bottom line. Most of all get yourself feeling the best so you can give your 100 percent going forward. n
Otto Mitter is Managing Director Ex-Import Niche Products. www.eximport.com.au
1300 660 297 www.rezenerate.com.au Find us on
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ROUNDTABLE
Jodi Ayre
Shellie Pearson
Michelle Reeve
Beth Charlton
Lisa Zwart
Dermalogica
Asthetique Skin Care
Waterlily Skin Body & Spa
dermaviduals
Honey Body Salon
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS, PRODUCT ADVANCEMENTS & INNOVATION
Watch all of the dynamic Industry Roundtable videos online at www.professionalbeauty.com.au/roundtable
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ROUNDTABLE All smiles from our panel of experts
QUESTION: Vogue UK recently nominated the following skincare ingredients as ‘on trend’. Which of these ingredients do you regard as the most influential in current formulations? • Vitamin F • Niacinamide • Mandelic acid • Marula oil • Copper • Retinol • Squalane LEARNING: WHILE ALL OF THESE INGREDIENTS HAVE A ROLE TO PLAY, HEADING BACK TO BASICS IS A COMMON RECOMMENDATION BY OUR EXPERTS. Lisa: “These days we’re seeing a lot of skins that are quite barrier impaired. Barriers have been treated incorrectly with severely harsh treatments, so I’ve gone back to basics because nothing else is really
Guests enjoyed a day on Sydney harbour
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going to work unless you get that barrier functioning at a good level. I have picked vitamin F and squalane. Both of these are anti-inflammatory and as we know inflammation causes aging. Both help with transdermal water loss, keeping that hydration in the skin. Essential fatty acids we know are also really important for cell regeneration.”
Beth: “I would have to agree with Lisa - definitely squalane would be my top pick. Of course, once the barrier is repaired, I would like to look at ingredients such as niacinamide and also retinol to introduce to a client.” Jodi: “Once we’ve got that barrier repaired, it’s now time to supercharge the results and niacinamide and retinol… I can’t pick between the two! What I love about niacinamide is that we’re able to support hydration. We can support with healing and repair, but I love also that we’re able to stimulate the antimicrobial peptides in the skin, so really pushing on the microbiome and being able to power up the skin’s natural defence. I also love retinol - it delivers phenomenal results in skin.”
WE ALL KNOW THAT IF THAT [SKIN BARRIER DEFENCE SYSTEM] IS NOT IN PLACE, PERHAPS THAT ACTIVE INGREDIENT ISN’T GOING TO DO ITS JOB PROPERLY OR TO ITS BEST. Shellie Pearson and Beth Charlton
Guests discuss the leading beauty trends
Shellie: “We all know that if that [skin barrier defence system] is not in place, perhaps that active ingredient isn’t going to do its job properly or to its best. We need to bear in mind that trends come and go, but skin doesn’t change.” Michelle: “I love how the industry is working and moving away from that one magic bullet approach. It’s really hard to choose one and that layered approach is getting barrier function working well. Then it’s that synergistic approach of combining those beautiful essential fatty acids through vitamin F with those cosmeceutical actives and using the multifunctional approach… there’s room for all of these.”
Our experts shared common perspectives
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ROUNDTABLE
Shellie: “I work with liposomes and nanoparticles in particular. Knowing that my active is going to do its job well, I also know that comprised in those delivery systems are liquids and those liquids are physiological to the skin. So once the active is dispersed into the skin, those liquids then start to form that first line of skin barrier defence. If [actives] encapsulate in something that’s not so good and our skin doesn’t recognise it, is it going to do its job properly, or could we possibly have detrimental effects?” Michelle: “First: it’s ‘do no harm’. We’ve been working with a really beautiful food grade delivery system recently and we love that it’s got that naturopathic approach where a nutraceutical vitamin company knows it’s safe and healthy enough to be able to eat it. To be able to give that same philosophy is a doable approach… At the same time, I think offering that balance between efficacy and safety is so important.”
QUESTION: The market for skincare delivery systems is forecast to reach US$543 million in 2020. Are encapsulated delivery systems such as liposomes, microcapsules and millicapsules the answer to increasing product performance while delivering active ingredients in a controlled manner?
WHAT OUR CLIENTS ARE REALLY DEMANDING TODAY IS RESULTS, BUT IT ALSO COMES BACK TO BEING ABLE TO PROTECT THEIR SKIN HEALTH WHERE WE’RE USING THOSE MICROENCAPSULATION TECHNOLOGIES TO SUPPORT THE LIQUID BARRIER, AND AT THE SAME TIME RELEASE DELIVERY.
LEARNING: THIS IS A SPACE THAT’S GOING TO BE INCREASINGLY IMPORTANT TO THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY AND SO WE’VE INCREASED INVESTMENT AND THE TECHNOLOGY ASSOCIATED WITH THAT. Lisa: “Delivery systems are so important because if you’re promising a product can do something but it’s just going to go and sit on the skin, it’s not going to be really functional. These micro delivery systems allow it to have slow release, to potentiate activity, and stabilise the ingredients. All those things are so important in having that overall outcome with these amazing ingredients.”
Beth: “We know with the use of liposomes - the delivery system – it actually releases a ceramide upon delivery, which then goes xxxx repairing and looking after the skin barrier. There are towards actually quite a few papers on that.” Jodi: “What our clients are really demanding today is results, but it also comes back to being able to protect their skin health where we’re using those microencapsulation technologies to support the liquid barrier, and at the same time release delivery, particularly when we’re thinking about something like retinol that has that rapid delivery effect. If we’re not able to slow it down, we can imbalance the skin needs at the same time.”
Lisa Zwart met with other guests
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ROUNDTABLE
QUESTION: Consumers are increasingly demanding greater insight into what their products contain, especially as the link between specific cosmetic ingredients and health issues becomes more apparent. What challenges does that bring to brands? And what onus does this heightened consumer knowledge place on salon professionals? LEARNING: TRANSPARENCY IS HERE TO STAY. ACCESS TO INFORMATION WON’T GO AWAY, BUT RATHER WILL HEIGHTEN. BRANDS NEED TO BE OPEN AND HONEST, AND TO COMMUNICATE WELL WITH SALONS. EDUCATING SALON STAFF IN REALTIME WILL ALLOW FOR THE PROVISION OF THE BEST SERVICE POSSIBLE FOR THEIR CLIENTS. Jodi: “Firstly, it’s the brand’s responsibility... through education, [we need to] support our skin therapists in understanding what as a brand we’re working with. [Otherwise] consumers have information at their fingertips; it’s all on the web and they’ll do their own research, developing their own decisions. At Dermalogica, we’re leaders in the education that we offer. But it’s not just giving information to the therapist, it’s also role-playing and developing that practical experience so that they can have those meaningful conversations when they happen in a business.”
that my entire team is educated as well. Another thing that I’ve relooked at lately is education on the digestive system, because you can’t think of one system without thinking of another.” Michelle: “As a formulator, my personal philosophy is ‘how comfortable am I putting this on my skin when I’m choosing ingredients to include in a formulation?’ Ingredients… not just being clean, but having a purpose for being there, then taking away empty formulations and replacing them with the botanical nutrition that our skin demands to be able to operate at its best. [Clients] want balance between efficacy, pure skin nutrition, intensity, and then safety and cleanliness at the same time.” Lisa: “Transparency builds trust and that’s what we need to gain. People buy from someone who is knowledgeable… it comes back down to training, essentially. If we know what we’re talking about, then there is transparency in that product and in that brand.” Our female leaders bonded before lunch
Shellie: “It’s great that our clients are now becoming wary of what’s in their products and what they’re applying to their skin. I think we’re seeing that not just in skincare, but overall in general health. From my point of view, it’s making sure as a clinic owner that I’m educated and
[CLIENTS] WANT BALANCE BETWEEN EFFICACY, PURE SKIN NUTRITION, INTENSITY, AND THEN SAFETY AND CLEANLINESS AT THE SAME TIME.
The Spice Room made for a beautiful venue
Beth: “From a rep’s perspective, clients are very savvy now… they ask lots of questions. I feel it’s my responsibility to educate my therapists on my products and to ensure they’re across not only just the active ingredients, but also the other ingredients that could be supporting that particular active as well.”
Michelle Reeve shared her insights
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Our guests smiled for the cameras
QUESTION: While The Federal Government has legalised the cultivation of cannabis for medical or scientific purposes, the current regulation inhibits the use of CBD in skincare products in Australia. Do you foresee this changing in the future? LEARNING: INDUSTRY LEADERS AREN’T QUICK TO JUMP ON THE CBD BANGWAGON JUST YET. FURTHER TRIALS AND TESTING ARE REQUIRED UNTIL ITS TRUE EFFECTIVENESS CAN BE UNDERSTOOD. Lisa: “There is a lot of anecdotal evidence, not enough scientific evidence in my mind, to prove that it does really have a place in the skincare market currently… Again, it boils down to education… I’m really not too sure where this will go with the TGA and what their thoughts are on it.”
THERE IS A LOT OF ANECDOTAL EVIDENCE, NOT ENOUGH SCIENTIFIC EVIDENCE IN MY MIND, TO PROVE THAT [CBD] DOES REALLY HAVE A PLACE IN THE SKINCARE MARKET CURRENTLY… The women became fast friends Beth Charlton
Shellie: “Lots of things also become legalised in Australia, but that doesn’t mean that we go ahead and use them either. As a skin therapist, I’m looking for sustainable health for my clients, for their skin, so I’m wanting something that I can be able to give to my clients that’s long term… I think it’s an exciting time and there’s still more [trials] that can be done.” Michelle: “Clinical trials are paramount. You need to know the efficacy of these ingredients and I think that even consumers [are] still a little wary around gimmicky ingredients… The complexity behind what we do means that we really want to see that this works before we start incorporating it.” But first, coffee for Jodi Ayre
Jodi: “… There is certainly consumer interest, hype and buzz, but I think there’s also an opportunity for us to bring it back to what we’ve been talking about - skin health foundations and what we can already do to address those skin concerns. And it’s also the investment in the professional skin therapist and giving them the skills to be able to again, have that powerful conversation with a customer to educate and to help them achieve their goals along the way of their skin health journey.”
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ROUNDTABLE
Shellie: “DMS actually mimics our skin barrier, so you’ll find that you’ve got your squalene, your triglycerides, your ceramides, all in. The skin recognises it, so it’s able to work with it; it’s able to strengthen and build. Then whatever else is left, you can target.” Lisa: “I’m loving the Dermalogica Sound Sleep Cocoon… it’s a mask you use at night. In today’s society, we’re all about being productive 24/7. We have our mobiles and wifi all around us, so we’re always able to do things. At night, that’s when your body goes into repair mode. This is where this product comes in and it works with your body’s circadian sleep rhythm, going into repair mode and re-hydrating, helping with cell renewal, stopping transepidermal water loss, essentially protecting the skin. [This product] is also great for post-treatments, peels, micros, and all those harsh treatments because you can be a little dehydrated after things like that.”
Our guests had plenty to talk about
QUESTION: Nominate one professional product currently stocked in salons that you personally regard as groundbreaking. Why do you hold it in such high regard, and what is it managing to achieve that its’ nearest competitor isn’t?
DMS ACTUALLY MIMICS OUR SKIN BARRIER, SO YOU’LL FIND THAT YOU’VE GOT YOUR SQUALENE, YOUR TRIGLYCERIDES, YOUR CERAMIDES, ALL IN. THE SKIN RECOGNISES IT, SO IT’S ABLE TO WORK WITH IT.
LEARNING: THE ADVANCEMENTS THAT DERMALOGICA, DERMAVIDUALS AND WATERLILY, AMONG OTHER BRANDS, ARE MAKING ARE GOOD REASON FOR EXCITEMENT. THE TIME NOW FOR OUR INDUSTRY IS GROUNDBREAKING, AND THAT’S EVIDENT THROUGH THE PASSION OF OUR INDUSTRY LEADERS. Beth: “At Dermaviduals, we work with a customisable skincare range that you can formulate depending on the skin type, condition, or concern. I feel this is quite groundbreaking in the industry, being able to pick and choose the ingredients that you prescribe for your clients, instead of just having a blanket approach or one-size-fits-all approach. We also work with a patented structure, which is what we call a DMS (derma membrane structure). This is found in our creams and our cleansers.”
Michelle: “Over [Waterlily’s] 15 years, we’ve retained our heritage of small artisanal crafted batches, so every product that we make is made [fresh each month] on-site in our botanical laboratory in Brisbane, Queensland. We’ve gone back to that slow skincare movement…” Jodi: “I’ve got to jump into the age-fighting category - our Phyto-Nature Firming Serum. It is a leading innovation for the fact that it not just prevents aging, but it literally reawakens the skin. It understands what the natural process of a younger behaving skin is, being able to then tap into the natural antioxidant in skin glutathione, working with the natural youthful protein sirtuins to be able to connect powerfully with them and to stimulate them; we’re able to reverse the signs of the exposome damage. It pushes us into that next sphere of epigenetics in the skin, and moves us into advanced aging treatment products. And the results for this particular product are phenomenal.”
Talking beauty is always a lot of fun
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ROUNDTABLE
QUESTION: Not all natural ingredients are good, and not all synthetics are bad. Outline your thoughts on the following ingredients that clean-beauty products are allegedly free from, and nominate any viable alternatives: • Parabens • Sodium lauryl sulfate • Phthalates • Mineral oil • Petrolatum • Formaldehyde LEARNING: WE NEED TO LEAN ON THE EXPERTS TO BE ABLE TO CUT THROUGH THE ‘GREEN-WASHING’ AND GIVE US THE FACTS ON INGREDIENTS AS THEY STAND TODAY. THOSE FACTS WILL, HOWEVER, KEEP CHANGING. Michelle: “I think the question should really be – ‘how hardworking are these ingredients?’ If it’s synthetic and it’s just there to take up space… but if it’s an active ingredient that has been synthetically manufactured to be the safer form of an ingredient, then definitely… It just takes care as a formulator. You can easily swap out things to make things cheaper, but it’s about what would I want to put on my skin.”
Shellie Pearson
I THINK PEOPLE STILL BELIEVE THAT IF THEY SEE ‘NATURAL’ ON A BOTTLE, THEY’LL THINK IT’S NATURAL. IT IS UP TO US AS THERAPISTS TO EDUCATE THEM, FOR THEM. Stairway to spice heaven
Shellie: “Some natural ingredients are not as efficient. If you’re making something synthetically, but it’s identical to the natural, then it can be really good and perhaps have a higher benefit in the skin. So I do agree that not all natural ingredients are good and the other ones are bad or that synthetic are bad. We need to think about where the products are being processed and manufactured. What type of lab is that being done in? Is it an aseptic lab? If it is, there’s no need for some of those harsh preservatives to be in our products… I think that’s something that could be questioned.” Beth: “Sodium lauryl sulphate - I’m so surprised that this is still hanging around in quite a lot of over-the-counter and high end cosmeceutical products. We know the detrimental effects on the skin microbiome, the acid mantle and what it actually does at stripping back out epidermal lipids.” Lisa: “It comes down to consumers being knowledgeable about these ingredients and questioning brands. There are alternatives and so it’s really about keeping up the research and finding suitable alternatives. Not all of them are bad for you… it’s a balance.”
Glenn Silburn connected with guests
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Jodi: “Innovations are happening around those ingredients… what can we do with them to take them to the next level? There’s a lot of opportunity for brands to explain more about what we’re formulating with and how we’re formulating, and the natural and synthetic pairing is where we’re going to see those outstanding results.”
Jodi Ayre
Shellie: “I think people still believe that if they see ‘natural’ on a bottle, they’ll think it’s natural. It is up to us as therapists to educate them, for them… I think it’s important that we’re explaining [ingredients] to the client and allowing them to make an informed choice on what it is that they decide to use.” Lisa: “I also think that people use the word ‘clean’ quite loosely.” Beth: “The ingredient itself might be organic, but what is that ingredient sitting in to be preserved? Are there other ingredients keeping it stable? Is there a binding ingredient in that product?” Michelle: “Something quite toxic can be vegan. And just because it’s organic, doesn’t mean it is.” n
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SKINCARE
Rethink your approach to
AGEING SKIN
Skin ageing is a process that is influenced by both internal and external factors. Maytola Kollaris, MD of Skin Factors reveals how to prevent premature ageing. SKIN AGEING IS a complex biological process influenced by a combination of internal (intrinsic) and external (extrinsic) factors. Natural ageing is inevitable, however, premature ageing - which is usually caused by extrinsic factors - is not. While ageing signs of internal organs cannot be seen, the skin’s outward expression provides the first obvious marks of the passing of time: if life is about change, skin is proof of that change. The fact remains that good, healthy-looking skin, and beauty, is still considered one of the principle factors representing overall perception of well-being in people. Therefore, in order to best treat, reverse and prevent further premature ageing, a therapist must be fully aware of the multi-faceted processes that occur in skin as we age. In this article we highlight some lesser known yet vitally important changes that therapists should be aware of, and the best in-clinic and home-care approaches for the safe and effective treatment of ageing skin.
INCREASE IN pH The healthy pH of the skin is somewhere between 4.1 and 4.8 – much lower than once thought. Indeed, the average pH is approximately 4.7, with men’s skin being more acidic. The acid mantle plays a crucial role in: Skin integrity and cohesion - working with skin’s own natural building blocks such ceramides, cholesterol, enzymes and sweat etc., to enable epidermal barrier homeostasis. Immune function – normal, healthy skin is able to resist acidic/alkaline aggression to some extent (buffering capacity). Furthermore, an acidic pH restricts colonisation of pathogenic flora while promoting growth of healthy flora, and thus preventing dermal infections and disease. As the skin ages however, its pH increases, resulting in an impaired barrier, poor skin cohesion, defective lipid processing, reduced resistance to pathogens, increased sensitivity to treatments and products, increased likelihood of inflammation
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and disease, and reduced response and repair to injury. These pH changes occur between 50 and 80 years of age.
SOLUTION • Ensure that your client is using pH balanced cleansers and skincare products. • Ensure your client is not repeatedly disrupting their skin’s pH by use of highly alkaline or highly acidic products that progressively damage skin. • Use of acids in treatments – (if indicated) we recommend monthly facials with the addition of an acidic exfoliator and low pH products. • Home care – (if indicated) weekly at-home acid peel and regular use of a low pH product such as an acidic based serum/ cream. This can be used two to three times per week. • Look also for ingredients that support the acid mantle’s healthy flora such as probiotic lactobacillus. TIP: We recommend glycolic acid (GA) as it is the most multifunctional acid and also the safest across the Fitzpatrick scale. Glycolic acid also has a brightening effect on pigmentation. Pigmentation changes are common in aged skin and presents as photo-damage, sun/age spots, melasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. GA also boosts elastin and collagen biosynthesis for skin regeneration and repair. Therefore it is effective on fine lines, wrinkles and scarring. Last but not least, GA increases dermal and epidermal hyaluronic acid and therefore acts to increase moisture content; as skin ages there are also changes to water content.
CHANGES IN WATER CONTENT People are not plants, therefore drinking more water does not hydrate skin. Trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) occurs for many reasons, and which need to be established in order to best treat dehydrated skin. Contrary to belief, the total hyaluronic acid (HA) level in the dermis of ageing skin remains stable. However, epidermal HA diminishes markedly. The major age-related change is the increasing lack of bonding of HA to water: in young skin most of the water is bound to HA and other proteins (‘bound water’). In older skin however, most of the water is bound to itself, known as tetrahedron or ‘bulk water’. As a result, collagen and elastin become harder and stiffer, and together they can obstruct the passage of nutrients and waste between cells. Therefore, this lack
of interaction between water and surrounding molecules may explain that although water content in older skin remains stable, it is often dry, withered and of poor quality.
SOLUTION • Identify the difference between dehydrated and lipid deficient skin. • Identify any extrinsic reasons for TEWL/dehydration, such as products, treatments, lifestyle, work/home environment, climate etc. By identifying the cause you can help prevent further TEWL. • Look for advanced water-binding ingredients that help build and preserve tissue hydration such as intelligent high weight/low weight HA, minerals (magnesium, calcium, potassium etc), Venuceane, chondrus, crispus, Pentavitin, Aquaderm, amino acids etc. • Look for polypeptides that help the skin build its own water reserves and promote barrier repair and cell adhesion for prevention of TEWL/dehydration such as: Collaxyl (Hexapeptide-9), Fibronectin Biomimetic Peptide, Oligopeptide 24, etc.
HORMONAL DRYNESS Many of the symptoms we see in the ageing of skin and body are directly attributed to a decrease in hormones. The main hormonal deficit in women is menopause, which causes a decrease in oestrogen and androgen products. Although women produce only one tenth the amount of androgen that men do, testosterone and related androgen metabolites are as important to women throughout their lifespan, as is oestrogen. Reduction in oestrogen and androgen production results in; • a decrease in sebum production • a decrease in the skin’s ability to retain moisture thus leaving the skin prone to lipid dryness, dehydration/TEWL and itchiness.
SOLUTION • Use of an occlusive lipid-rich product nightly as the last product over serums and moisturisers. The fatty/occlusive product will lock in moisture while allowing the skin to repair itself overnight. • Look for ingredients that have hormone like effects (HRT) to ease the symptoms of hormonal reduction, such as DHEA, melatonin, black cohosh, soya, etc. • Look for ingredients that target epidermal lipid synthesis, optimise lipid homeostasis, and correct dryness and itchiness such as: lipigenine (flaxseed extract), essential fatty acids (EFAs), seabuckthorn (highly recommended due to its EFA makeup – Omega 3, 6, 9 & 7 ), ceramides, squalene, shea butter, etc.
A-GRADE TIP For all clients over 40, use of well-formulated and stable vitamin A (retinol, retinaldehyde, etc.) cream (if indicated) is a necessary, three nights per week. Vitamin A is still a gold-standard in anti-ageing because it acts as a highly effective cellcommunicator and thus theoretically tells skin cells how to look, act and behave like younger and healthier skin cells would.
Conclusions The motivation of any skin anti-ageing therapy is to achieve a healthy, smooth, blemish-free, and resilient skin. That is why it is so important to understand all factors that cause skin ageing. We are well aware that approximately 75 per cent of premature ageing is due to UV damage and other environmental causes. However, when we are dealing with ageing and menopausal skin, we need to also look at intrinsic factors such as pH and hormonal changes that cause external structural changes. While natural ageing is genetically determined, extrinsic ageing can be prevented. Aesthetic treatments and home care should contribute to ‘healthy skin ageing,’ not only by trying to erase time vestiges in skin, but by also playing a significant part in prevention, regeneration, and delaying of skin ageing. Last but not least, the desired therapeutic anti-ageing effect of the skin is a continuous, step-by step process that must also explore inner health as well as skin health in order to achieve long-lasting and positive changes. n
INTERIORS
Salon Interior Inspiration BROW LASH & CO Stephanie Romano and Kea Rogers are raising eyebrows with their luxe bohemian salon style. Find out why.
Walk into any of Brow Lash & Co Brow Salons across four locations: Prahran, Camberwell (in Victoria), Paddington and Byron Bay (in New South Wales) and you have instantly been transported into a love affair of Luxe Boho Chic inspired by high street fashion meets French Bohemians. Co-Owners Stephanie Romano & Kea Roger’s signature salon style across their salon starts with their Victorian architecture. From there, they fuse their favourite interior styles which includes a minimalistic luxe look with natural monochromatic boho
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vibes. When you enter each salon, you are greeted with a warm welcoming feeling that oozes classy luxury. With every little detail personally picked and designed by both Steph & Kea, standouts include bespoke LED signage, luxe velvet statement sofas, and a dried flower ceiling arrangement, that steals the show as a statement piece within the salon. Marble floating benches are combined with LED backlight mirrors and matte black salon furniture pieces are at each client station. Extra personal touches added
include their own brand of retail and a keen eye for designer decor. “Our salon style plays an important part of our business and is an extension of our brand. We receive new social media posts from happy clients enjoying their service, sitting in our salon chairs that are our favourite common element in every salon. It’s an amazing and proud feeling to open four salons, a training academy and our own brand of retail in just four years, and we couldn’t do it without our amazing clients,” says Stephanie.
GET THE SALON LOOK OR TAKE ELEMENTS TO MAKE IT YOUR OWN:
• The Luxe Boho look is a kind of bohemian style, with a minimal ‘less is more’ approach with emphasis on luxe details. The key is to layering textures to create a warm and inviting space. The more luxurious textures the better, really! Just don’t cover your entire salon in velvet or go OTT with metallic accents. It’s about balance. • Choose monochrome colours of black and white and layer them with a combination of luxe and natural textures. • For salon furniture, go for anything textured, black and white. Choose luxe like materials with a combination of gloss and matte. Add metalic elements for that little touch of luxe. • Finally, no boho luxe interior is completed without florals and a touch of greenery. Use desert plants like cacti together with dried flower arrangements that incorporate dusty pinks florals, dried ferns and pampas grass.
Textured Large Vase adairs.com.au
Naomi Reclining Salon Chair in Textured Black comfortel.com.au
Dried Floral Arrangement target.com.au
8 0cm Floating Stone Bench Koralky 5 Light Drape Chandelier beaconlighting.com.au
Salon: Brow & Lash Co www.browandlashco.com
In Marble Look comfortel.com.au
Circa LED Mirror comfortel.com.au
@browandlashco Salon Owner: Stephanie Romano & Kea Rogers Salon Furniture: Comfortel Furniture Photographer: Luke Hackner @lukehackner
Coco 2 Seater Velvet Sofa In black templeandwebster.com.au
Bennet Reception Desk In Gloss White comfortel.com.au
Studio 4 Drawer Trolley In Matte Black Metal comfortel.com.au
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How do I retain my successful team? Our Derma Development Plan takes the unique chemistry of your clinic to create a bespoke programme supporting your vision & goals, no matter what they are. Together, we’ll design a customised strategic plan enabling you to realise your vision. Sign up for our free webinar and learn from industry leaders with exclusive insights into their success: www.dermaviduals.com.au/ my-development-plan
Shellie Pearson – Asthetique Skin Care Clinic owner, panellist, mother & passionate Corneotherapist “dermaviduals are a company that align with everything I believe in, strong ethics & morals, growth, education and support. They are an amazing product company that has helped my clinic go from good to exceptional, with a point of difference. I’ve seen a 60% increase in retail sales year on year and my staff retention is 100%. Connect with me to find out more!”
asthetiqueskincare
1300 420 223 support@skincorrection.com.au © Derma Aesthetics
Want to know my secret? Our new Derma Development Plan takes the unique chemistry of your clinic to create a bespoke programme supporting your vision & goals, no matter what they are. Together, we’ll design a customised strategic plan enabling you to realise your vision. Sign up for our free webinar and learn from industry leaders with exclusive insights into their success: www.dermaviduals.com.au/ my-development-plan
Rebecca Miller – The Skin Whisperer Owner of 3 clinics with 24 staff, keynote speaker, mum & entrepreneur “Our flagship clinic in rural New South Wales sees on average 20% growth year on year. We are also extremely proud to have a 92% client retention rate. The business support provided by dermaviduals and, of course, being able to customise formulations for individual skin needs are paramount to this success. Connect with me to find out more!”
rebeccamillertheskinwhisperer
1300 420 223 support@skincorrection.com.au © Derma Aesthetics
BEAUTY DIARY
TALKING BEAUTY PB’s Hannah Gay navigates the Australian professional beauty industry, one burgeoning trend at a time.
FACE time
h
ello beauty lovers, and welcome to the first edition of TALKING BEAUTY! I’ve been working on team PB for the last six months as Beauty Editor, having the ever-sotough job of trialing the endless incredible treatments and products our professional beauty industry has to offer. As both a journalist and consumer, discovering what’s happening in the world of beauty is one of my favourite past-times. Think of this space as a hotspot of insight into some of the most unique, intriguing and gamechanging offerings to rouse my attention. Join me in peeling back the sheet mask that is our beloved salon industry, where I’ll dive deep into the minds of formulators, educators and face-makers to learn what’s worth talking about now!
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Apparently I’m late to the party but I recently tried DMK’s Enzyme Facial, or what’s affectionately known as ‘The Game of Thrones Facial’, for the first time. The treatment is unique to the brand, yet has had no trouble in making waves everywhere from its Californian hometown (having built a celebrity following there) to our very shores. The treatment - complete with its hardened masque a’la White Walker style – offers a traditional post-facial glow, and then some. The experience of having layers upon layers of enzyme-enriched cream pasted on my face was certainly unfamiliar, as was my inner dialogue reminding me to remain still for my facialist, Leanne while the mask took shape. As its stiffness set it, I tried knocking on my cheek in hopes of feeling a sensation, but to no reprieve. How on Earth did it work, and how did DMK come up with such a facial in the first place? I caught up with Donna Hodgson from DMK to answer my questions. Originally created for application by surgeons operating out of Beverly Hills, the enzyme masque would encourage pre and post-operative healing with fewer than typical complication rates. “The enzyme masque helps to reduce swelling and increase blood and lymph - the healer of all wounds,” Donna explained. For a more complex visual, a clean, toxin-free matrix is revealed under the skin when “reverse osmosis ‘back flushes’ fluid through the cell wall.” Skin is ultimately left tightened and functioning at an optimal level. Contrary to my expectations, the masque actually begins as a powder and is emulsified with an activating solution to form a paste. Once applied to the skin, the paste reverses back to a solid state, creating a hard shell effect. While you’d expect all the work to come from the hardened masque, it’s the masque causing a constant downward pressure on the skin, “[prompting] cytokines within the skin to stimulate collagen, elastin and Glycosaminoglycans (GAGS),” Donna says that unlocks the rewards. The real hook for me was the bazaar appearance of salient, red veins springing to my skin’s surface post-treatment. A signifier of healthy blood flow, the veins remained high on oxygen for several minutes, before relaxing back under my top dermal layers. The whole appeal of this treatment is to create the look of healthy, vibrant skin or as I like to call it, the dewy complexion of a person finishing an hour’s-long sprint. It’s for this reason DMK began offering the treatment in a salon capacity, where clients count on it for that fresh, pepped up look and feel ahead of a big soiree. And while on the surface its prowess seems a little gimmicky, the intention backing every facet of this treatment and its effectiveness is certainly deserving of the hype.
YOU ONLY GET
WISH
list
I stumbled upon this retroinspired magazine rack while perusing Comfortel’s website recently, and think it’s a great trend piece for your salon space (or my home office). Comfortel www.comfortel.com.au.
ONE CHANCE
Perfect TO BE
QUESTIONS ANSWERED on Mavala’s Crystal Nail Polish Remover with Managing Director at Cosimer, Remi Bouchenez. HG: WHAT MAKES MAVALA’S CRYSTAL NAIL POLISH REMOVER DIFFERENT TO OTHERS IN THE MARKET? RB: “This is truly a unique product on the market
that is designed for conscious consumerism, is 100 percent biodegradable and environmentally friendly, and safe and nourishing to use. The formula is gentle, colourless, odourless, non-flammable and acetonefree, removing nail polish without drying nails, cuticles and skin. In fact it is known as being safe enough to even pour on a plant!” HG: HOW DID YOUR PARTNERSHIP WITH JOCELYN PETRONI COME ABOUT? RB: “Mavala is a brand with a rich heritage in nail
health, care and love. Jocelyn Petroni shares this same philosophy and passion for personalised nail health. Jocelyn delivers meticulous manicures that treat the nails at the same time. HG: WHY SHOULD SALON OWNERS PARTNER WITH MAVALA? RB: “In 1969, Mavala opened its first professional
manicure school in London, and since 1994, have been working with 30 French beauty schools, which use its products and manicure techniques as part of its curriculum. Mavala’s expertise includes an exhaustive range of nail care and at-home treatments that make for a great complementary sale to a professional manicure, where the manicurist will have time to identify the client’s nail concerns and recommend a suitable nail care routine adapted specifically.” Cosimer 03 9645 1933.
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1300 470 648
jessicacosmetics.com.au admin@jessicacosmetics.com.au
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LAUNCHING INTO
BEAUTY SPACE While new regulations have meant tough times for the industry. It’s time to re-invent your business. Anita Quade chats to beauty specialists changing the way they operate and how they are launching into the virtual world.
THE SALON SOLUTION Meredith Langley – Owner, The Beauty Room Cosmetic Clinic “In our industry it is normal to deal with slow seasons, bad seasons and horrible seasons, but none of these compare to our current season. The Covid-19 outbreak has been hitting the world and our industry where it hurts, since February. Ultimately affecting our lifestyles, our plans and naturally our salons. I have been in the beauty industry, owning my own salons for over 30 years. I have traded through the recession of 87’ and the GFC and seen my fair share of troubling times. But always my business has flourished. During these times, my clients wanted relief, relaxation and a break from the stress and worry of their financial problems and my appointment books were always full and my business boomed. I never worried about bad, economic forecasts; I have always been okay. But not this time. Nothing could prepare us, nothing could save us and nothing could stop this terrible virus from closing our doors on that dreaded Wednesday night. In times of crisis, when the news is full of job losses, businesses failing, exhausted Doctors and Nurses and the shockingly scary headlines, it is important to keep calm and remember that there
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are still a lot of things that we can control. And a lot of ways we can make a difference. Just like we are all learning to adapt with the virus in everyday life, by taking extra hygiene precautions there are several things I have implemented to help my business cope with the impact of Covid-19 on the industry. This is a lot to take in and adjust to. What to expect? Is there a future for our salons, once this is over? I know there is! Our clients are loyal, we often refer to them as “family”, we love what we do, otherwise we wouldn’t still be here, trying to navigate around all these new changes to our businesses, and our clients will always need us too. But only if we continue to show our love and support to them now when they need us more than ever before, and not just stay at home thinking “well there is nothing I can do about any of this, so I might as make the most of it, have a holiday and worry about it when the government let me reopen”. This kind of attitude will surely be the end of your business as you knew it and your customers will look elsewhere for skin guidance and support. I don’t know about you, but the likes of the online Adore beauty sites etc. will happily take their business. At The Beauty Room Cosmetic Clinic our clients know that I am only a phone call or a message away if they need any skin care advice or free home-delivery of their favourite products. We have been busy making up free “Take-home tinting and waxing kits” and made online tutorials on how to use these. We have drawn up rental contracts and installed five of our Omnilux machines to our most trusted, VIP clients in their home. In a way to help them continue with their skincare routine and bring in much needed revenue. I have also contacted all my suppliers and suggested the idea of how they can support my business with direct fulfilment orders.”
BUSINESS
THE SKIN INJECTOR Dr Naomi – Owner, The Manse Clinic “We have started marketing our online shop. The reaction has been amazing. I can see that this is a great new business opportunity. We have a large reach and people have trusted us for years, and I find that they are really grateful for the information we’re providing about skin improvement. They want to buy from us! We have been developing really useful and valuable offers, so I think that could also be one of the reasons for the success. It’s so great all of the support we’ve had so far. It is a lot of work though, I didn’t realise how much learning was involved, creating new systems and learning how the platforms worked. Hats off to all online retailers! It’s a great and fun challenge, even though it is stressful. We are also about to launch online consultations, we have been setting it up and doing our patient reviews with it and we have it functional, so hopefully that will be a success as well.”
THE MAKEUP ARTIST Yvette Elias – Artist, Founder and Creative Director at Yves Lashes “We are keeping a positive mindset and adapting our services to suit what our clients, friends and followers want to see and our response has been educational content. We have asked our followers what they want to see in this educational content and we have had a great response and are now creating some incredible ‘how to’ content & mini tutorials Some of the content will include the tips and tricks of the following: • How to do an eyeliner on yourself • How to apply your own lashes • How to colour match your foundation and more We will be sharing the same educational tutorials for Yves Lashes focusing on lashes and lash application. We aim to use this time to educate our clients and followers and hope it lifts spirits at this time to help us all to become more driven , inspired and maybe come out of it with a new skill or 2. Let’s make this time productive and use the time to heal and recharge.”
THE SKINCARE SPECIALISTS Pippa Hallas – CEO, Ella Baché “Our customers are loving that they can connect with their therapist online either via social channels or the Virtual Skin Consult, as it gives them the sense of togetherness as well as supporting their local business, at a time when it’s not business as usual. Many customers are needing a reminder to look after themselves and give themselves permission to do this, even if it’s a 5 minute mask in the bathroom alone after a day at home with kids or by themselves working from home. Our full scale online learning platform for the Diploma of Beauty students is in the process of being rolled out, with online content, videos, 1;1 educators tutorials and virtual practical assessments, the student feedback is fantastic as they can learn everything from home in a digital way. I think it is very important during these times that we don’t be seen to be greedy and capitalising of people’s grief as it sends a bad message to our clients. We will all be accountable on how we acted during this time and our clients and communities in which we work and live will remember what we did or didn’t do, and how we helped and supported each other during these trying times.” n
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SALON VIEW
WHERE SUCCESS BREEDS SUCCESS Tucked in the heart of Mona Vale, 30 kilometres north of Sydney’s CBD is Skin Inspiration – a salon offering high-performance face and body treatments alongside alternative therapies. Hannah Gay spoke with the salon’s founder and leading paramedical aesthetician, Suzanne Carroll to learn more. Tell us when and how Skin Inspiration got its start. “I was at the forefront of the Day Spa profession and when I decided to make the move to a laser/ skin rejuvenation profession - Skin Inspiration was born. I wanted to combine nature and science at a higher level than I had been able to achieve previously, providing more customised programmes and delivering amazing results for clients.”
Describe the salon’s look and feel. “Predominately white, beyond clean and clinical.”
What is the most requested treatment that you offer? “Skin Inspiration is known for its cutting edge combination treatments such as Nano Fractional Needling, Tixel + IPL + RF/PEMF + CryoSlim Fat Freezing. We often combine skin peels with skin needling to achieve optimal results for our clients. After controlled, invasive procedures, we then exfoliate and hydrate with high-performance facial treatments to further enhance results. We are always mindful that you can’t keep torturing the skin… it needs nurturing too.”
When selecting brands to use during your treatments, what are some of the criteria you want met? “Having been in the profession for almost 36 years I have been fortunate enough to build professional relationships with my suppliers, and so I trust their integrity and their ability to stay at the forefront of product development. Professional skincare products incorporate active compounds and intelligent ingredients in higher percentages that are not commonly seen in products sold in department and drug stores. Ingredients like peptides, plant-based stem cells, growth factors, sophisticated antioxidants, Vitamin A’s and many more will assist in increasing collagen and elastin synthesis, reducing fine lines, wrinkles, rough texture and will help protect the skin from damaging environments. Recommending a simple, yet synergistic regimen will also help
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provide the results I am looking for. An active cleanser, antioxidant-rich serum, rejuvenating nightly serum with alpha-hydroxy acids and Vitamin A, a nourishing refined oil and physicalbased sun protectant will not only support skin moving forward, but help to overturn damage.”
You’ve worked with Christina Cosmeceuticals for three decades! Why have you stuck with the brand for so many years? “After meeting Christina in person in the USA, I was so impressed with her products and passion combined with her level of knowledge that I’ve been an advocate for the company ever since. I’m thrilled that Skin Factors have emulated the same passion and professionalism with the product who are the Australian distributors. I’m always looking at what is happening internally with clients in order to address their external skin concerns and Matolya Kollaras at Skin Factors, who has a degree in Chinese Medicine, is able to help shed light on external care which often leads to Christina Cosmeceuticals as the solution.”
What have been some of your biggest achievements while running Skin Inspiration? “Over the twelve years I’ve run Skin Inspiration, I am most proud of the members of my team who not only strive for personal excellence, but excellence for our clients one hundred percent of the time. Being a pioneer in the Day Spa revolution was an incredible chapter but now, in a more intimate clinic, we offer products as well as treatments with integrity and have more of a relationship with our clients. My passion and integrity have allowed me to keep embracing the new, as well as maintaining the basics of what has worked for many years.”
Name a beauty trend that you predict will be the ‘next big thing’ in Australia. “I believe after Covid-19 people will be re-evaluating their priorities and putting themselves and their skin at the top of their list; we will see who and what is important to us, and looking inside will be number one. This will encompass being the best and healthiest versions of ourselves. The Venus Concept ‘Bliss’ programme for size reduction in conjunction with RF/PEMF and muscle stimulation will provide amazing results for body contouring. Combining rejuvenation modalities for the skin will be old but new again.”
Describe the overall experience the salon and its staff hope to provide to its clients? “Providing professional, caring and customised service and treatments for clients where they know they are not receiving cookie-cutter treatments. We put packages together and no two are the same, as each clients’ skin or body goals, finances and outcomes are different. This requires a far greater effort from the Skin Inspiration team, but the end results speak for themselves.”
THOSE WHO WORK WITH CREDIBILITY, INTEGRITY AND PASSION WILL BE THERE AT THE END OF THIS INCREDIBLY CHALLENGING TIME, MAYBE NOT IN THE SAME WAY BUT IN A BETTER WAY THAT WORKS FOR THEMSELVES AND THEIR CLIENTS. It’s currently a testing time for the Australian beauty industry with the outbreak of COVID-19. Provide a piece of advice you can offer to other salon owners struggling to sustain their business at this time. “It is a great time to review treatments, protocols, product lines and policies that have needed revamping, but there has been no time; it’s always a challenge to work ON the business and IN the business at the same time. Online training courses will be inspirational and will spark our enthusiasm again for our amazing and ever-changing profession. Taking time to breathe for yourself and your team, while working on staying connected, will allow us to come back bigger and stronger and more focussed. Those who work with credibility, integrity and passion will be there at the end of this incredibly challenging time, maybe not in the same way but in a better way that works for themselves and their clients. Many years ago when we had high-interest rates, clients changed their spending habits and stopped coming, but when they needed a lift we were their first stop to refresh and renew.” n Skin Inspiration, Ground Floor, Suite 2, 20 Bungan Street, Mona Vale NSW 2103 02 9979 8832, www.skininspiration.com.au
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BUSINESS
6
steps to ensure your
BUSINESS SURVIVES
CORONAVIRUS
What are your competitors doing right now? You can’t count on them panicking and battening down the marketing hatches, so if your business lies low during the coronavirus shutdown you leave yourself wide open to your competitors’ marketing. Your clients, and theirs, are online more than usual because of the social distancing restrictions, so make sure you grab their attention, not your local competitor. By Alice Kirby. AFTER ANY ECONOMIC recession, it is the businesses that keep marketing who come through first, strongest, and with a greater share of the local market. So roll up your sleeves and let’s get started.
Step #1
STOP REVENUE WALKING OUT THE DOOR
Your knee-jerk reaction might be to bury your head in the sand, cut marketing budget and wait until coronavirus has passed, but maintaining regular contact with existing clients is key to ensuring they return to your business, and not your competitors when you reopen. If your clients’ social feeds are brimming with regular engaging posts from your local competitors, but it’s radio silence from you, before you know it your clients will be visiting your competitor’s website, reading their advice blogs, and signing up to their e-newsletter. Do you feel comfortable with your competitors having your clients’ email addresses? Your number one goal over the coming months is to keep your business front of mind, so when clients can book that overdue wax, they immediately think of you. A last-minute marketing blast just before you re-open is too late – your clients may have already decided to give your competitor a try.
Step #2
THE RIGHT VOICE
Think carefully about what you say to clients during the coronavirus crisis. The country’s mood is constantly changing, and what felt like a good message yesterday may not be right today. How you say it is important too. Being positive is vital but think about your tone of voice as well as the message itself. Post feel good stories, client
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testimonials and DIY beauty tips, thank frontline workers and use throwback before & after photos while your business is closed. While the drop in your revenue is alarming avoid being in selling mode all the time and focus instead on building connection and trust in your client communications. Once we start to come out of the restrictions change tone: promote bookings with a VIP ‘wait list’ for those first appointments, host giveaway competitions on Facebook to stay front of mind locally, run a complimentary treatment ‘thank you day’ for frontline workers or offer them discounted treatments (be careful with the Ts & Cs) and help your cashflow with gift card offers.
Step #3
STAY FRONT OF MIND
Your team: Encourage them to be ambassadors for your business during coronavirus by sharing/commenting on your business social posts. This helps boost non-paid posts and gets your marketing message out to a wider audience locally. Email marketing: An unsung marketing hero. Email marketing puts you in the driving seat as an e-news campaign reaches around 98%+ of your database, while non-advertised Facebook posts typically only reach a paltry 4%-10% of your Page Likes. I’m suggesting my clients send out two e-newsletters a month during the pandemic to stay front of mind with clients. Lapsed clients: Continue sending lapsed client reminders throughout the shutdown. Don’t neglect this important group as the salon they moved to may not be talking to them right now. Just change the message so they can use the offer once you reopen. Local marketing: Pump up the volume by partnering with like-minded, local businesses who have similar target audiences. Use this downtime to contact local business owners, set up virtual meetings and map out how you can support each other with marketing and promotions. Then, when life returns to normal, you’ll have a ready-to-go new local audience to market to. Marketing materials: You may not want to splash the cash just now, but there’s no harm in reviewing printed marketing items while you’ve time on your hands. Mark up the changes now so when you do feel you can get new ones printed, they’ll be ready to go. Wow ‘em: Building strong client relationships goes deeper than just posting on social media. Keep sending client birthday cards throughout the shutdown, and phone or send a personal text to your top clients to make them feel wanted. Google ranking (SEO): With people hunkered down at home there are more eyeballs than ever online so make sure it’s your business that gets found
when they search. And not your competitors. The 1st position on Google gets around 33% of the clicks, the 2nd position around 15%, and just 9% goes to the 3rd position. Google isn’t stopping for coronavirus so add high quality, interesting, original content to your website engage your visitors and maintain that strong Google ranking you’d put such effort into achieving pre-virus.
Step #4
POLISH YOUR MARKETING TOOLKIT
Time is something most of us have rediscovered during coronavirus. Use this enforced ‘break’ to assess and improve your marketing tools and ensure it’s your business that clients flock back to. Not your competitors. Social: Refresh online profiles, bios and imagery. Reviews: 72% of consumers say positive reviews make them trust a local business more. If you don’t have a process to encourage clients to review you on Google, Facebook or other platforms put one in place while it’s quiet. Booking: Post a clear notice on your website and any online booking system confirming temporary closure/reduced hours. Update this immediately you have a firm date for reopening and make it clear how clients can book. Website: Even small changes such as fixing broken links, updating imagery and removing outdated pages add up to improve your visitors’ website experience and help persuade them to book with you. Review templates: Review any standard automated templates on your salon POS system for birthdays, lapsed clients or appointment reminders and add a personalised touch so they seem more friendly, and clearly from you.
Step #5 TEAM TALK
If you’ve temporarily laid off your employees keep in daily contact with them so they aren’t tempted to look for a job with a local competitor as life returns to normal. Keeping them informed about your business plans helps them feel involved, puts everyone’s mind at ease, and is positive about their future. Think about online training with Skype, Facetime or Zoom. It could be technical education, improving client care or retail sales tips. It’s an ideal opportunity to get together remotely, have a social catch up and reinforce your business values.
Step #6
READY TO WOW
When a business bounces back quickly from a crisis you can bet it was down to being ready and prepared rather than pure luck. Use this dormant time to improve your plan. n
Alice Kirby is the founder of Lockhart Meyer Salon Marketing. www.lockhart-meyer.co.uk
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Photos by Guillermo Simón, MD
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Photos by Michael Drosner, MD
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Photos by Agnes Heng Yoke Hui, MD
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References. 1. Ellipse Nordlys CE Mark clearance. 2. Nordlys system instructions for use 2018. Candela data on file.
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Take advantage of the instant tax write-off of $ up to 150k WHEN YOU INVEST IN A NORDLYS DEVICE FOR YOUR CLINIC Purchase a Nordlys device before 30 June 2020 and receive 30 hours of marketing and creative services This package will be tailored according to your business goals and needs following an initial consultation. Hours can be used across appropriate services including strategic development, marketing, design and artwork over a 3 month contract period*
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*Subject to initial consultation call. Additional hours will be subject to an hourly rate. Excludes media costs. Š 2020 Candela Corporation. This material contains registered and unregistered trademarks, trade-names, service marks and brand names of Candela Corporation and its affiliates. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. All rights reserved. Disclaimer: All contents of this material are for informational purposes only and provided by Candela without warranties of any kind. Healthcare professionals are solely responsible for making their own independent evaluation as to the suitability of any product for any particular purpose and in accordance with country specific regulations. The availability of products and the indications mentioned in this material is subject to the regulatory requirements and product registration status in each country. Refer to the User Manual for country specific indications. Products and technical specifications may change without notice. Please contact Candela for more details.
BUSINESS
PAYOT celebrates
100 YEARS This long time French skincare brand is forging ahead with innovation as it marks its incredible milestone. Anita Quade chats to PAYOT General Manager Rita Smith about being an innovator during changing times. You are celebrating 100 years of PAYOT this year - you have no doubt seen challenging times in the past. Can you tell us how you are dealing with the current changing face of beauty? “Today we’re seeing great challenges with COVID-19 closing down all of our salons within Australia. This has taken the emphasis off in-salon treatments and put a huge strain on the industry. However, during challenging times there are also opportunities if you can adapt to the situation. With salons unable to service clients with treatments, we’ve seen a greater emphasis on their online business and retail sales. We know that clients are loyal and supportive of their local salon. We believe that it’s important that the PAYOT salon owners remind their clients that they can still provide home care. It’s important for their business to concentrate on ‘ease to purchase’ for their clientele. Whether that’s through their online store or via their phone/email ordering system. Communication is key in times like these. Having an up-to-date customer relationship management solution is important to contact your customers. We have spent time as a company making sure that we have these systems in place and we encourage our PAYOT salon owners to do the same. We’ve known for a long time that the face of beauty is changing. There’s a huge demand for social content and online retail. Salon owners who have invested in an online retail arm to their business are in a much stronger position at the moment. These businesses that have also put the time into creating a strong social media presence are communicating with their customer base and reminding them to support them. The more authentic that they are with their clients on social media, we can see that this results in genuine support and an increase in sales. We’ve encouraged our salon owners to reach out to their customers via social media and via their online newsletters. We believe that recommending home care products is going to be very helpful in keeping their salon top of mind and cashflow coming in.”
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Rita Smith with PAYOT President, Marie-Laure Simonin Braun in the The Hall of Mirrors, Palace of Versailles.
Tell us what makes PAYOT so successful throughout the years? “Throughout our 100 years in business, PAYOT has always been at the forefront of innovation and product development. We’re always changing and adapting to the times and today is no different. With our in house research and development lab we’re able to quickly respond to demands and trends in the beauty industry. An example of this recently has been the huge demand for eco-friendly sheet masks. These have been a huge hit in Asia, especially Korea and we’ve recently introduced our Morning Mask Range addressing 5 different skin concerns to attract a market share of this business. With the introduction of the Morning Masks, we’ve been able to also benefit by an increase in demand for home care use during the coronavirus lockdown measures. At a suggested sales price of $13 per unit it’s also a beauty home care treatment that is for the more budget aware.”
Moving forward what measures have you put in place to ensure the company’s success? “We’ve been able to adapt to the changing nature of Covid-19 measures and have continued to support our salon owners. One of our most significant changes has been to offer our Head Office Support Team to continue to take orders and dispatch them on the salon’s behalf through our logistics partner, Promtel. What that means is that our salon owners don’t have to have PAYOT stock on hand and they can order on behalf of their customers what they need and have us send these products using our warehouse and logistics team directly to their customer. They don’t have to go to the post office as we’ll do it all for them. This measure has taken a lot of pressure off PAYOT salon owners and it’s been a wonderful initiative. Whilst some PAYOT salons have their own online ordering system, we’re offering all those that dont our business logistics to help them keep taking orders and providing home care products. We’re offering PAYOT customers continued service and whilst ever we are able to open our warehouse we will continue to support our salons and offer this service. As a company we’re in a strong position with our National Team of Business Development Managers and National Educator supporting PAYOT salons across Australia. In a time when other companies are letting go of their teams, we’re keeping all ours employed and they are working from home. They are in constant contact with their accounts and are providing fantastic support in these challenging
times. Even if it›s a sympathetic ear that they need at this time, our team has been incredibly supportive in guiding salon owners through this tough time. Another measure that we’ve put in place has been our investment in communications and digital media strategies. Our agency, LUXE Communications has worked exclusively with PAYOT for over 5 years now and we believe that their work has shown great value during this crisis situation. LUXE has been in constant communication with our salons to let them know of what steps we’ve taken as a company and they will continue to encourage consumers on social media to support their PAYOT salons. They are also continuing to promote our 100 year celebrations and bring some joy to people’s lives with our 100 products giveaway promotion.
Given your long history – do you have any advice for business owners struggling through these times? “Over 100 years we’ve been through difficult times. World wars and now a global pandemic. Our advice to our salon owners is that ‘this too shall pass’ and how we act towards one another in difficult times will play out in our business and relationships into the future when things return to normal. Our advice is to come from a place where you’re of service to your clients. Think of ways to help them during this stressful time and they will repay you with their loyalty in the future. Keep in contact and
help them purchase products for home care use. Think of home care treatments that they can do and keep posting helpful tips on social media channels. We also suggest that they work towards the restart. Spend the time now to research any government grants or benefits that they can apply for. Now is a good time to catch-up on any admin jobs that they have been putting off. Get their database in order, get those accounts up-to-date and improve their education through our online portal. Keep communicating on social media and start building an online e-boutique. customers, the salon owner working from home and on-line businesses for now.”
How has this affected your 100 year celebrations? “2020 would have been our 24th consecutive year taking our top PAYOT salon owners to Paris for a week long celebration but within Australia we will continue to celebrate with consumers by giving away 100 prizes through our social channels.” n
WELLNESS
BIGGER, BRIGHTER, BETTER! As we enter into yet another month marred by the Coronavirus, it might be hard to imagine the day that our industry is free to re-open its doors and welcome back its customers. But when that day comes - and it will - salon owners are going to need to be ready to go, even bigger than before. By Kerrie Simon Lawrence.
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Be a strong leader Being a good leader is the key to success, both when business is great, and when it isn’t. Thanks to the Morrison Government’s recent announcement of the Jobkeeper subsidy, there’s a good chance you’ll be able to keep your staff employed throughout the pandemic. Even if they’re not physically going to work, use the time to speak with them via Zoom or Skype, ensuring that they’re healthy and managing on an emotional level. If possible, conduct remote staff training, sharing techniques and skills, and furthering your staff ’s understanding of the business. “There’s the concept of ‘peacetime CEOs’ and ‘wartime CEOs’,” says business analyst Nathan Sinncott. “Peacetime CEOs focus on the big picture, empowering their teams to make detailed decisions, with strong focus on career development. Wartime CEOs focus on fast decision making, little handholding and fighting immediate threats. Many businesses are presently at ‘war’. Being able to make fast, sensible, strong decisions will help settle and inspire your team.”
This too shall pass Other countries have proven that restrictions will eventually be relaxed, and economies start to recover. Businesses will reopen, and money will start coming back in. “The good times will return. Acknowledging this and allowing it to inform your
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WELLNESS
THERE’S NO DENYING that it will have been a tough time, possibly the toughest in your business’s history, but how you’ve spent that time will determine the strength of your comeback.
decision making is important. Don’t shed staff too fast or turnoff all marketing. Your ability to fight back, sell and deliver your service/product will be hampered when that time comes,” says Nathan.
Avoid slashing prices It sounds counter-intuitive to hold your prices when you know you’re going to need to attract business. However, Nathan recommends avoiding a situation of trying to survive by being the lowest price. “This strategy could be damaging down the track, perhaps because you’re unable to profit this way, or you may have to build an image as a low cost provider, finding it difficult to return to normal pricing later, when the crisis is way behind you.”
Know your numbers Spend this time getting to know your overheads very intimately. Identify ways in which to trim costs without compromising on the quality that your customers have come to love and expect from your salon.
Love your customers Keep them in the loop; tell them your re-opening date, take bookings ahead of time and thank them for their patience. “Understand that your customers have likely also been through a tough time, and be transparent about how grateful you are that they have come back to your salon,” says Nathan. “By doing so, you’ll re-build a loyal customer base.” n
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SUNSHINE STATE
With only three years on the map, Skin Forum in Burleigh Heads already has Medik8’s Clinic of the Year for 2019 under its belt. At the helm is the salon’s Director and Registered Nurse, Rikki Ballantyne, who shared Skin Forum’s story with Hannah Gay.
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Starting Point “Skin Forum began as a small home salon where I offered basic beauty treatments to get me through my Nursing degree. I had been a qualified beauty therapist for many years, however due to unstable university hours I couldn’t hold down a job with regular working hours. Skin Forum expanded into a shop front a few years after I graduated and began cosmetic nursing. We now have two locations on the Gold Coast - Burleigh Heads and Chirn Park.”
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Look and Feel
“We have a very relaxed, coastal vibe. When you enter the clinic you are met with the smells and vibe of a day spa, however our treatment rooms still do meet all clinical requirements.”
THE ENTIRE TEAM, FROM OUR ADMINISTRATION GIRLS RIGHT THROUGH TO OUR MANAGEMENT ARE VERY MUCH INVOLVED IN ALL ASPECTS OF CLIENT CARE AT SKIN FORUM.
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First Impression “From the minute a client steps into the clinic we want them to feel special. The entire team, from our administration girls right through to our management are very much involved in all aspects of client care at Skin Forum. We provide a very personalised, resultsdriven service to our clients with a relaxed spa vibe.”
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Top Treatments “Anti-wrinkle injections and skin needling are our two most popular treatments.”
Product Performance
“We only stock products that are results-driven with active ingredients.”
SALON VIEW
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Signature Sellers “Medik8’s Surface Radiance Cleanse and Hydr8 B5 Intense Serum.”
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Winner’s Circle
“It was such an amazing moment when we received the call that we had won Medik8’s Clinic of the Year last year; a real ‘pinch me’ moment. This award for us represented the commitment and care that our team puts into absolutely everything that we do at Skin Forum. We are such a small clinic and have grown so much in just three short years.”
On Surviving Testing Times “Remember why you started. As a business owner it can often feel overwhelming at the best of times. In this time of COVID-19, all we can do is know that on the other side of this we will have the support of the entire community and clients will be banging down our doors, so keep on focusing on that day… it will come!” n
Skin Forum, 1/109 West Burleigh Road, Burleigh Heads QLD 4220 07 5576 6082, www.skinforum.com.au
EXPECT MORE FROM YOUR SKIN CARE
Scientifically proven skin care
SURVIVAL GUIDE
THE SURIVAL GUIDE Looking to make the most out of your business during this challenging time? Kerrie Simon-Lawrence reveals what you need to know
BIG BANKS COME THROUGH FOR SALONS In line with the Federal Government’s assistance for Coronavirus-affected businesses, the major banks have also revealed their relief packages. If your salon is experiencing significant financial loss, speak to your bank, using the below as a starting point.
ANZ Businesses that have taken out term loans of up to $10m can pause repayments for up to six months. Interest runup during the period is capitalised. Overdraft increases are available, and when it’s up and running in early April, business customers with turnover of up to $50 million a year will be eligible to borrow up to $250,000 under the federal government’s loan guarantee scheme. The scheme will offer a six-month deferral of loan repayments, with interest accrued during the period capitalised.
Commonwealth Bank The bank will automatically halt repayments between April and June on loans to small businesses which have borrowed up to $5 million. A further deferral is available if required. Interest run-up during the period will either be capitalised or due at the end of the loan period, depending on the type of loan. CBA says other help available includes waiving merchant terminal fees, early redraw fees on business term deposit accounts, and establishment fees and excess interest on temporary excess products.
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KEEP YOUR INSTAGRAM COMMUNITY STRONG WHILE YOUR DOORS ARE CLOSED A huge number of social media followers is nice sure, but really engaging with the ones you already have? Well, that’s invaluable. Consider this: your existing customers are not only supporting your Instagram account, they’re likely supporting your salon too. So nurturing them is going to go a long way to ensuring you still have a clientele when you throw open your doors, postCoronavirus pandemic.
Engage, engage, engage If someone ignores you, chances are you’ll stop trying to start a conversation with them, right? Same goes for social media. If you never reply to your followers’ comments, they’ll eventually stop commenting. “Use this as an opportunity to start a conversation,” says marketing expert Leoni Gerald. “For example, if somebody comments on a post, reply by asking them a question, asking them for their feedback or thanking them for their feedback. Going that step further will really show that you care.”
Add value Whether it’s to make them smile during this stressful time, or to educate, your followers need to feel like they’re getting something out of your account that they cannot get somewhere else. “If you share valuable content that forms an emotional connection with your audience, you can build trust and develop a loyal community,” says Leoni. “Another important factor is to read your Insights and understand what content is performing best. You can filter your Insights to view your best performing posts based on a variety of factors and time frames.”
NAB
Be consistent
Repayments on business loans can be paused for up to six months, while business credit card repayments can also be deferred. Eftpos terminal rental can be waived for up to six months and loans are available through the small business loan guarantee scheme.
Social media isn’t a “when you feel like it” part of your marketing strategy. If you’re not there, you cannot expect to be on their mind. Create a weekly plan; know what you’re going to post and when. Being organised will also help you to think more clearly about what you want to do.
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LOCKDOWN: ALTERNATIVE REVENUE OPPORTUNITIES Given that the beauty industry is so heavily based on touch, the working-from-home model that so many industries are adopting, simply doesn’t work for salons. With salons in lockdown owners are being forced to identify alternative revenue streams to keep their business ticking along, even while their doors are closed.
Step up your online sales Selling retail products has - up until now - been an in-salon exercise. But COVID-19 lockdowns have diminished the opportunity we used to rely on to educate customers about the product we were using on their skin, and to help them build a new at-home regime. In the event of a lockdown, ensure your website is ready to go with regards to e-commerce. Have an online selling portal, and be prepared to ship the product in a timely manner. In the absence of face-to-face selling opportunities, lean on social media to ensure visibility of your products. “Take beautiful photos and share those on your social media, write about them on your blog or website,” says marketing expert, Sharnee White. “Beautiful products can ordinarily entice people to come into
your salon, but given the current climate, you could potentially be building a new clientele, that are waiting for you to re-open your doors.”
Push gift certificates Start pushing the purchase of gift cards to current clients. Even though the actual services won’t be claimed until after the pandemic, the sale of the vouchers will be money in your pocket today. Create in-salon marketing, reminding customers of upcoming events (Mothers’ Day, birthdays, etc), and suggest they consider a gift voucher. Take to social media to promote gift vouchers, and be prepared to either post a tangible gift card, or an email confirmation.
Negotiate with your landlord If you operate out of the spare room at home, then you’re one of the lucky few who won’t be scrambling to pay rent on your salon space. But if your salon is positioned in a mall, it’s time to look at your terms and conditions. Even if you’re still open but experiencing slowed trade, requesting a rental abatement could save you a stack of cash. “The landlord may be persuaded that it’s better to have less money coming in, than to try to find a new tenant during tough economic times,” says a representative of the Small Business Comissioner. n
BUSINESS
3 WAYS SALON LIFE WILL BE BETTER POST COVID-19 It’s an uncertain time for everyone right now, and no one can predict when life will return to normal, and what normal will even look like. By Sarah Flutely. WE HAVE TO question could there be further lock downs in future? Will salons have restrictions on the length of appointments, number of visitors, and how close you can be to clients? Will salons be required to know more about client and staff health before they enter the salon? Will salons be allowed walk-ins again? These are the questions business owners need to be thinking about and preparing for. This time is giving us all the chance to revisit how we operate, and presents us with the challenge and opportunity to be more innovative and do things better than before. We’ve put together the 4 ways that salon life will be better after COVID-19, and how business owners can make the most of it and can hit the ground running when the doors re-open.
1. DEMAND FOR YOUR SERVICES WILL BE THROUGH THE ROOF Let’s face it, once lockdown is over the first thing most people will be doing is booking appointments for their much needed services; I know I will be! And to be honest, I would pay a premium to have them, and I’m not the only one. During lockdown you can rest assured that your clients’ appreciation for what you offer has increased, which means so has your value! There will be clients willing to pay the price you deserve for their treatments, so now could be the time to think about your pricing strategy post COVID-19.
Tips for managing the high demand: 1. Consider offering packages in the first few weeks after you’ve re-opened for things like a facial, eyes and brows and waxing. Using online booking and payments, you can ask for 100% upfront payment (or a % you’re comfortable with) to get some money coming in straight away. 2. Consider charging a premium rate for your services in the first few weeks of re-opening to make the most of the high demand. 3. Review your price list; it’s a good time to ensure you’re making the right margins on your treatments and services.
2. CLIENT AND STAFF SAFETY WILL BE EVERYTHING It’s crucial that business owners and managers have client and staff safety and wellbeing top of mind when they re-open
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their salons. There will most likely be government enforced restrictions in place for various periods of time across many industries, so it will be important to be flexible and prepared to meet these requirements.
Keep your client records up to date In some countries, contact tracing requirements have meant that businesses need to keep a record of all client contact details for a certain period of time. Post lockdown you can expect this to continue, and businesses will need procedures in place to manage this. Using a good client management system will be key here, and keeping client records up to date will be crucial.
Limit the time clients are allowed to congregate Salons that accept or rely heavily on walk in clientele will need to rethink their booking strategy. Allowing people to congregate in close proximity while waiting for appointments might not be acceptable anymore because of increased health risks, so using online booking tools to manage the volume of clients in your salon at any time and ensuring you are meeting the requirements for contact tracing is the smart way forward.
Communicate your health and safety policies Pre COVID-19 we were all guilty of coming to work when we weren’t feeling 100%, or attended an appointment with a bit of a cold. No harm done, right? Wrong. We were putting others at risk, and I expect harder lines will be taken on this in the future.
Any sign of illness and you’ll need to stay away, and it’s worth communicating this to your clients once your business is back up and running.
Run consultations online before your appointments A good tool to use to protect your business is Consult by Timely; a free iOS app that allows you to create customisable digital forms and send them to your clients online. Using Consult, you’ll not only save your clients time and improve safety (because they won’t need to sit in the salon completing forms before every appointment), but it allows you to ask key health questions to ensure they’re not ill and putting anyone at risk.
The secret to perfect skin.
3. AUTOMATING YOUR PROCESSES WILL BE VITAL TO SUCCESS The salons that thrive post COVID-19 will be the ones open to innovating in this new environment and are quick to adapt their operations to manage their businesses more efficiently. It’s important to use this precious time to review your business operations and look at what you can automate such as your booking processes and marketing to reduce your overheads and stay ahead of the competition.
B E FO R E
Fill your calendar without all the manual effort When calendars are open again how will you manage the huge amount of calls, emails, direct messages, and texts from all your clients that are desperate to see you and your team? How will you prioritise your clients’ needs with availability? You could be looking at days, if not weeks, wasted managing bookings manually and following up with clients if you’re not using online booking! Clients prefer to use online booking to choose their appointment times, services and staff. Our data shows that over 51% of appointments booked with Timely are made outside of salon hours, so it’s crucial to have online booking set up to not only provide an exceptional booking experience for your clients, but to maximise your time as well. Those businesses offering online booking and payments, with controls like minimise the gaps will be well ahead of those on pen and paper. Online booking provides many efficiency gains for businesses that can no longer be ignored. When calendars are finally open to appointments once again, businesses using online bookings will be able to sit back and watch their calendar efficiently fill up, and relax knowing that every minute of bookable time will be used productively. Using online booking, you don’t have to pay staff to manage your appointments, and if you choose to use online deposits or take full payments online, you can generate revenue straightaway. At the end of their appointment they can leave without having to wait around to pay - it’s like Uber for your salon! n Sarah Flutely is Head of Marketing, Timely. www.gettimely.com
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TECH TALK
When Pigmentation Presents in
YOUR CLINIC One of the problems of living in a harsh climate is pigmentation. Natalie Maugeri reveals tips on how to treat this at your clinic. HYPERPIGMENTATION IS WHAT we refer to as brown discolouration of the skin. Commonly referred to simply as pigmentation which may include Solar Lentigines (age spots), Freckles, Cafeau-lait macule, Melasma, PIH (post inflammatory hyperpigmentation). There are many different causes for this increase in melanin hence the many different approaches when treating. UV exposure is the most common cause of Hyperpigmentation. There are many forms of Hyperpigmentation, correct and thorough consultation is imperative for the best outcome for your client. For many years we have primarily used the Fitzpatrick Scale to classify our clients skin colour with a scale from 1 - 6. I still highly recommended this scale however, I would like to mention that we need to think outside the square and be aware that in modern society we have a large percentage of clients with complex and mixed ethnicities and some will not adhere to the strict criteria of the Fitzpatrick Score. For example, skin that presents as a Fitz I or II may respond to skin treament as a III if there is a sprinkle of Asian, Indian, Aboriginal, Polynesian etc in their heritage. When consulting with your client it is essential to have a standard checklist/ questionaire to work with. The right questions it will help you assertion the type of pigmentation your working with. Take the time to listen to your clients answers. Melasma is classified as a non threatening skin condition that is treated with a medical approach with the support of dermal therapy. As I work in a Medical Clinic I refer my client to our Dr’s that
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specialise in Melasma. We treat our patients with prescription compounded fading cream, gentle chemical peels and q-switched Nd:Yag short pulse laser. IPL is not recommended for use with Melasma unless in a specialised clinic when it has a strong vascular component When treating PIH, again I like to combine both medical and dermal to gain the best outcome. The use of fading creams again can be beneficial as are superficial chemical peels. The use of IPL is not recommended for PIH as we do not want to cause any further inflammation. Nd:Yag short pulse lasers can help. With all hyper pigmentation a multi approach of cosmeceutical home care products, medical prescriptions combined with strict sun protection and in salon treatments such as chemical peels, IPL or Laser will give you great results. The introduction of cosmeceuticals often brightens the skin and ensures a healthy skin which will gain better results from in salon treatments. I use the Nordlys Ellipse IPL for treating pigmentation such as solar lentigines, freckles, cafe-au-lait. I get fantastic results with often only 1-2 treatments with no to low downtime. I can treat all areas of the body. This is also a great treatment to maintain skin rejuvenation. With monthly chemical peels and an Ellipse IPL treatment every 3 months your client will maintain amazing skin rejuvenation with a beautiful even skin tone. An added bonus is that most skins suffering from sun damage will also have varying degrees of vascular damage. This will also be corrected with the Ellipse IPL at the same time you are targeting pigment.
Education The most important thing to reinforce to your client with hyper pigmentation is the use of sun and light protection (infra red, visible light). Physical sun block that has zinc and titanium dioxide is the best because it will stop all the light and wavelengths from penetrating as well as visible light. This is important to wear all the time even if you work indoors. Your client needs to be 100% committed to this if they are serious about getting results. The use of physical coverage eg hat, umbrella, scarf is actually better (unless near reflective surfaces) but it is difficult to get clients to commit to these measures. They need to be reminded that the pigmentation will recur with re-exposure to light. At the end of your consultation give your client a clear treatment plan, include pricing and a time frame. This will all vary from client to client depending on budget, desired time spent in clinic, downtime availability (if required) etc. Also ensure your client that together you will reassess this plan as required depending on results achieved along the way. Open communication and listening to your client will be your best tool. n
Natalie Maugeri is the Senior Laser and Dermal Therapist, Northern Skin Studio. www.northernskinstudio.com.au www.candelamedical.com/au
SKIN RESURFACING DEVICES Secret RF is a novel RF microneedling system for tissue coagulation and hemostasis designed to stimulate and remodel collagen and address the common signs of aging. It is ideally suited for use on patients who wish to revitalise and refresh the appearance of their skin on all skin types. By adjusting the micro-needles, Secret RF can deliver energy at various depths, so that treatments can be tailored to address each patient’s individual concerns such as fine lines, wrinkles, acne scars, photoaging and striae at the depth required. Cryomed Aesthetics 1300 346 448
POWER OF THREE
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Offer your clients 3 innovative technologies in one:
1. RESTORE with sea salt exfoliation 2. REPLENISH via aesthetic ultrasound 3. REJUVENATE with LED phototherapy Safe and effective FOR ALL SKIN TYPES
The Vivace is a RF microneedling device designed primarily for use in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, skin tightening and scar revision. The Vivace is FDA cleared and TGA listed, and combines microneedling with radiofrequency to deliver a unique patient experience. As opposed to traditional microneedling rollers and pens that can lead to tearing of the skin, pain and variable patient results, the Vivace’s needle set contains 36 insulated gold tipped needles ready to deliver results at three levels of penetration. When combined with radiofrequency, it becomes the newest revolution in contouring and tightening for the face, neck and body, producing optimal results with little downtime. Cynosure 02 9484 4546 The Optimas is a workstation that utilises compatible Morpheus8 and Lumecca devices to perform RF microneedling and IPL skin rejuvenation respectively. The multi-use system was designed with productivity, revenue and patient satisfaction in mind. Morpheus8 comes with programmable penetration depth and energy delivery for treatment of fine lines and wrinkles, acne scars, pore size reduction and general skin tone, where Lumecca can reduce vascular lesions, rosacea, erythema of rosacea, and angiomas, among other skin irregularities. InMode Australia 02 8860 6468 eTwo is a complete facial rejuvenation system capable of performing treatments to alleviate acne scars and striae, facial wrinkles and other skin irregularities. eTwo uniquely combines Sublime and Sublative applications for comprehensive facial rejuvenation. Sublime uses the elōs combination of safe and effective levels of infrared light and bi-polar radiofrequency energies to remodel the deep dermal layer of the skin by stimulating new collagen growth, and Sublative fractionated bi-polar radiofrequency technology places the heat energy effectively into the upper dermis where it can produce a significant increase in collagen with minimal epidermal disruption. Candela Medical 1300 226 335
SUCCESSFULLY TREATING • Age spots • Acne • Uneven skin tone • Sun damage • Stretch marks • Wrinkles • Pigmentation AND MORE!
BEFORE
AFTER
BEFORE
AFTER
“The SaltFacial is truly an innovative device that complements every other procedure we offer.” DR JASON EMER
1300 747 258 info@saltfacial.com.au www.saltfacial.com.au
COOL, CALM AND COLLECTED
Travelling to Bali is a right of passage for many Australians, especially for those with the intention of gaining a little R&R. COOL, CALM AND COLLECTED When it comes to providing the ultimate wind-down, Club Med Spa by Mandara in Bali’s tourist epicenter is certainly a hotspot, Hannah Gay discovers.
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BEAUTY ESCAPE
POSITIONED IN BALI’S southern coastal region of Nusa Dua is Club Med Spa by Mandara – one of a chain of international sites occupied by Mandara. Despite its global presence, Mandara’s spa offerings remain unique in their Balinese origins, with Club Med Spa’s treatment menu particularly rich in this culture. The spa’s Director, Ni Ketut Suastari, known affectionately as Tari, suggests that there are various elements to Balinese spas that make them so unique, whether that be because of their location, ingredients used or general ambience provided. “Bali boasts skilled local therapists, an abundance of local ingredients used for creating
spa products, as well as its natural landscape,” Tari says. “[Few spas globally] offer retreats, raw plant-based cuisines or healing and movement modalities like yoga, Balinese ceremonies, meditation or energy work. Many spa centres in Bali incorporate a sense of local culture through the use of local massage techniques, essential oils, botanical baths, and river stones.” Traditional Balinese huts open to a modern, dimly-lit reception area that’s magnificent in size and instant in its ability to quiet the mind. It’s clear on arrival that the space is designed to eliminate all external distractions and to
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create an overarching sense of calm for its guests. Rooms are nestled against undisturbed nature to create a feeling of tranquility. Club Med Spa by Mandara offers a variety of treatments suitable for men and women, designed with the intention to reset the mind, body and spirit of each guest. Tari describes their space in Nusa Dua as a “tranquil area of the Club Med resort complete with its own quiet pool.” While the spa provides a handful of treatment rooms for use by singles and couples, four private villas are also available, each complete with a shower, tub and outdoor sundeck so guests can further capitalise on the opportunity for solitude. It’s
here, Tari explains that “guests can pamper themselves and indulge in a variety of relaxation and body treatments inspired by local traditions and modern techniques aimed to achieve a perfect balance.” Waxing, makeup, and professional hair cutting and styling services are also offered, and a retail boutique and seperate manicure-pedicure area are also on site. Sitting atop Tari’s treatment menu is Balinese Massage. “A signature Balinese treatment,” she says, “is beneficial in improving blood and oxygen circulation, boosting immunity levels, relieving sleep disorders, alleviating strained muscles and joints, energising the body and relieving tension. Massage is carried out by skillful Balinese staff using natural products and quality massage oils.” Many of the treatments offered at Club Med Spa work with the body from head to toe. Their Pure Indulgence treatment, for example, incorporates a body wash, foot bath and massage in a single slot.
GUESTS CAN PAMPER THEMSELVES AND INDULGE IN A VARIETY OF RELAXATION AND BODY TREATMENTS INSPIRED BY LOCAL TRADITIONS AND MODERN TECHNIQUES AIMED TO ACHIEVE A PERFECT BALANCE.
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Other signature treatments offered include Four Hand Massage and a Frangipani Body Glow. Products by British skincare brand, Elemis are also used. “Elemis products are free from artificial colours, parbens, SLS, SLES, DEA and mineral oil. Our Elemis facial treatment includes a double mask application, which is great for deep cleansing and to give extra moisture to the skin.” When asked how Club Med Spa generally fairs within Bali’s crowded spa industry, Tari infers the importance of hiring qualified staff with at least three months of training under their belts. From a cost perspective, she says treatment prices are “very reasonable” in light of their competitors, while Tari remains selective on the product she treats with. It’s providing a “great standard in treatment services and quality of products” that Tari believes are keys to success. n www.mandaraspa.com/spa/Nusa-Dua-Club-Med-Bali
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MELANIE
BURNICLE Founder & Director of The Makeup Artist Guild Asia Pacific (The MAGAP) chats to Anita Quade about her favourite things.
My favourite beauty memory is... “My Gran would make me wait at the door until she’d popped on her lippy. She would then open the door once ready and let you in. It’s how she chose to present herself and show up.”
My career highlights... “Taking home 2 awards for Entrepreneurship November 2019 in NYC – based on founding the MAGAP which is a business I am so proud of.” My beauty mantra is... “Beauty is from the inside out and it is you as a whole, not one singled out part.”
Words I live by... “Continue to see the world with a childlike sense of wonder.” 96
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My biggest indulgence is.... “Omnilux light therapy as part of a facial, my happy place!”
I launched The MAGAP because... “There was a need for our industry to come together and create a strong sense of community and what better way to bring people together by celebrating the wonderful artists, brands and their diverse skillset.”
The one product I can’t live without is... “Lipstick. My Favourite power red at the moment is L’oreal Color Riche 364.”
I would tell this to my younger self... “You are enough.”
My favourite escape is... “Alila hotel Seminyak in Bali is my quick favourite go to getaway… Yoga, amazing food, poolside with a beachview, gin cocktail and fabulous adventure novel!”
AD INDEX
index ACMUSE 65 Advanced Cosmeceuticals
9, 17
Aesthmed / The Salt Facial
91
Artav Australia
81, 87
asap skin products
1, 20, 21, 37
Babor Cosmetics
97
BeautĂŠ Pacifique Australia
85
BEAUTY & SPA Insiders
4, 5, 99
BizCover 75 Candela Medical
78, 79
Christina Cosmeceuticals
100
Cryomed Aesthetics
27
Cutera 29 derma aesthetics
2, 3, 57, 68, 69
Dermalogica 61 Ex-Import Niche Products
52
Guinot 19 INSKIN COSMEDICS
15
Kitomba Salon & Spa Software
49
Lalisse Australia
77
Lycon Cosmetics
13
Masters Beauty International
71
Pelactiv 11
98
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Professional Beauty
35
RefectoCil Australia
33
Ultraderm
51, 89
Waterlily Australasia
63
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save the new date The summit for salon, spa and clinic professionals. Take your business to the next level with a collaborative day of inspiring talks, innovative ideas and engaging conversations guided by industry experts.
Sponsorship opportunities are available Contact Glenn or Kym for bespoke solutions.
Monday 26 October 2020
Professional Beauty’s Glenn Silburn: 0422 931 499 or gsilburn@intermedia.com.au
Ovolo, Woolloomooloo | Sydney www.beautyandspainsiders.com.au
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SPA+CLINIC’s Kym Cowper: 0410 570 467 or kcowper@intermedia.com.au
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IT’S NOT A SLOGAN. IT’S TRUE BENEFITS AND OUR REASSURANCE TO YOU. For more than 35 years, CHRISTINA COSMECEUTICALS has been committed to delivering leading professional solutions by harnessing the dynamic combination of traditional botanicals with scientifically proven ingredients. As a result, our treatment systems and home care products are successfully able to target and resolve impaired skin health and a broad range of skin conditions safely, and with outcomes that truly surpass expectations. IT JUST WORKS. For your FREE SAMPLE TREATMENT KIT, please call or email us at SKIN FACTORS (*conditions apply).
TO LL FR EE 180 0 82 4 282 | i nfo @s k i nfac to r s .co m . au