Professional Beauty May-June 2021 by The Intermedia Group

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MAY•JUN 2021 THE BIBLE OF THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY

SUSTAINABLE BEAUTY

The rise of eco-friendly skincare

ORGANIC INNOVATIONS

Clever ways to go green

CULTIVATECO.

ICONIC COSMECEUTICAL SKINCARE Celebrating over a century as one of the world’s most iconic cosmeceutical skincare brands, PAYOT is at the forefront of scientific innovation & herbal expertise

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PAYOT offers unique beauty rituals that combine scientific technology, skincare expertise & a pleasurable sensorial experience. Achieve the results your clients are looking for with PAYOT treatments & home care that is at the forefront of skincare innovation. As a cosmeceutical brand, PAYOT skincare is backed by science & research. PAYOT are one of the only skincare brands that can proudly say, “We have our own in-house laboratory. Our R&D team expertly create the most advanced & patented ingredients leading to our innovations in skincare products. We are also a Dr brand, with expert skincare founded by Dr Nadia Payot, who was a trailblazer in treatments for beauty.” PAYOT is committed to research & development. At the PAYOT owned Laboratories in Paris a team of specialized Doctors, Scientists, Pharmacists, Dermatologists, Galenic Engineers & Toxicologists provide futuristic innovations with ingredient formulation & technology. The PAYOT Laboratories, create & have access to the most technologically advanced ingredients on the world market. These ingredients work at a cellular level & deeper within the skin to achieve the results we are all looking for. PAYOT AUSTRALIA continues to grow year-on-year. As a therapist recommended brand, we make you the hero! Make an appointment today to learn more about how PAYOT can work with you & your business.

WHY CHOOSE PAYOT? We provide tailor-made solutions to help GROW your individual business. It’s our team that make PAYOT a success. Our people are our greatest asset & we work closely with you, the salon owner to offer: ∙ A dedicated & experienced Business Development Manager ∙ Monthly visits to add value to your business ∙ National Educator to improve your product & treatment knowledge ∙ Formal education in capital cities ∙ 24 hour education - PAYOT online Academy ∙ Tailor-made support - sale tools & monthly promotions ∙ Salon owner incentive trip to Paris ∙ Product incentives for your team ∙ Monthly advertising in Marie Claire Magazine & editorial press in national magazines ∙ Social media & marketing content library ∙ Point of sale materials & window displays ∙ Major product launch evenings ∙ Product samples & gifts with purchase

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CONTENTS

May/June 2021

Ed’s letter

What’s on PB Radar

News

Viewpoint

Cover story CULTIVATECO.

Skincare - Brace the Face: Change of season skincare

New Products - Skincare

Makeup - Natural Beauties: Mineral makeup

New Products: Makeup

Nails: Seeing Red

Masterclass: To Save Face

Style File: Sally Axford

The beauty of Biossance

A fresh take on skincare

Salon View: Soak Bar + Beauty

The art of sustainability by David Alpert

Skinfluencer - Sustainability measures

Beauty Blackbook: Emma Lewisham

Salon Profile: ONDA Beauty

Catwalk trends

Wellness: The Foundations

Talking Beauty with Ruby Feneley

Interiors

Make rebooking your focus

ADIC Council

Tanning - Red Earth

Cozmedic Lab’s Mineral Makeup

New Government Regulations

The Slow House Bondi

Social Diary

Last Word with Georgie Westley

ON THE COVER

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The founder of the new Australian cosmeceutical and wellness company CULTIVATECO Trudy Stone chats to Anita Quade about skincare centred around sustainability and the company’s plans to give back on page 24.

PUBLISHER BHA MEDIA EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN Simon Grover MANAGING DIRECTOR Craig Hawtin-Butcher craig@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Anita Quade aquade@intermedia.com.au NATIONAL ADVERTISING MANAGER Julie Davidson jdavidson@intermedia.com.au ART DIRECTOR Ryan Vizcarra ryanv@intermedia.com.au BEAUTY EDITOR Ruby Feneley rfeneley@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper

EDITOR’S LETTER

Welcome to the Sustainability Issue of Professional Beauty magazine. Clean Beauty has been a buzz phrase in the industry for awhile now and it seems the movement is only gaining more and more momentum as skincare formulators and salons work towards producing an environmentally clean footprint. We love innovative skincare brands that care as much about the ingredients they put into their formulas as much as those that they leave out. This issue we chat to CULTIVATECO founder Trudy Stone – the scientific mastermind behind the new Australian cosmeceutical and wellness company, which has just launched a line centred around sustainability. Read our inspiring cover story on page 24. Our beauty editor Ruby Feneley has been busy collating all the latest makeup, skincare and nail collections focused on organic goodness. To find out what’s new check out page 28. We are just as excited as everyone in the industry that this year sees the return of Beauty Expo Australia in Sydney from the 28-29 August. It promises to be a stunning showcase of leading brands and innovators from around the country. We chat to luminaries who have signed on to attend this year’s event and find out what we can expect to see at their stand. Read page 44. Salons are also upping their clean-beauty game and one of the leaders is the Paddington-based salon ONDA, co-founded by Hollywood actress Naomi Watts. The salon features luxurious organic facials, hand-picked wellness elixirs and potions from around the globe. Find out about their latest treatments on page 68. Enjoy this issue!

ONLINE & NEWS EDITOR Jessica Teas jteas@intermedia.com.au SUBSCRIPTIONS subscriptions@intermedia.com.au Professional Beauty magazine is published by

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N E W S TA F F

Jessica Teas, Online Editor

This month we welcome a new online editor to the ever growing team. Jess has worked in beauty and lifestyle journalism for 20 years in the US, UK and Australia. Jess started her professional life as editorial assistant at DailyCandy London, where her curiosity about the beauty industry and enthusiasm for the thennascent world of digital journalism was cemented. She has written for a wide range of titles including thecut.com, Time Out, LUXE city guides and more, and co-founded cultbeauty. com in 2008. She’s also run and contributed to several successful beauty blogs before relocating to Sydney. As Online Editor Jess aims to keep you updated with the latest industry-relevant news at professionalbeauty.com.au, via our newsletter and within our social communities.

This publication is published by BHA MEDIA, a division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication.

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

PB RADAR

On our RADAR

THE PEOPLE, PLACES AND EVENTS THAT PRO BEAUTY IS CURRENTLY CRUSHING ON VIVE BLENDS WELLNESS WITH TECH IN “VIVE SCULPT” SERVICE EXPANSION

MARIONNE DE CANDIA LAUNCHES MEDI SKINSAVER Celebrity facialist Marionne de Candia has launched cosmeceutical skincare line Medi SkinSaver. Inspired by Australian Professor Diona Damian’s famous 2017 niacinamide trail, the hero ingredients in the range are Vitamins B3 and B5, designed to treat and prevent the signs of sun damage and environmental pollution. Marionne de Candia’s loyal clients include Elle Macpherson, Kate Hudson and Baz Luhrmann, however, Marionne is focused on making the line accessible. She says, “My passion is to make a real difference by improving the quality of life of those under my care. My desire is that Medi SkinSaver remains affordable to everyone and to that end I have created a minimal, medically oriented product that focuses purely on results.”

FAST FACT:

In 2020 e-commerce retailer Adore Beauty used a Cubiscan dimensioning technology to transition to volumetric order fulfilment. The measure saved 27 tonnes of cardboard from their warehouse.

MINERAL SUNSCREEN TAKES THE LUXURY MARKET Luxury Australian brands Rationale and Endota Spa have released mineral sunscreens with the launch of Rationale #3 The Tinted Serum and Endota Spa’s New Age Mineral SPF50 Sunscreen. In the last five years the sunscreen market has tripled in size, aided by new lightweight, makeup-friendly chemical formulas. However, there is growing concern around the reefsafety of some ingredients in chemical sunscreens. There is evidence that up to 10 common actives can impact photosynthesis in algae, induce bleaching in coral and impact the health and fertility of creatures from sea urchins to fish and dolphins (National Ocean Service, US Department of Commerce). Luxury salon brands seem to be getting onboard with this reef-safe message and it seems the mineral market is set to boom.

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Vive Active Pilates studio has expanded its offering with Emsculpt NEO and BTL Emsella services. Co-founder Louise Keats believes the quick results offered by non-invasive fatburning and muscle-toning devices will give clients confidence to commit to their exercise regimes. Furthermore, the BTL Emsella services will help new mums struggling with pelvic floor weakness. Louise says “any mums avoiding group classes for incontinence reasons will find the Emsella enables them to attend without worrying.” Keats says of Vive’s commitment to holistic wellness: “We don’t wave clients goodbye after their treatment, we help maintain results in our classes, while providing nutritional advice and support in our Vive After Dark evenings”.

BEAUTY GIANT AMOREPACIFIC DEVELOPS PLASTIC FREE PACKAGING Korean conglomerate Amorepacific has launched new paper packaging, using patented nano-membrane technology. Plasticfree packaging has historically challenged the cosmetic industry with decreased shelf-life and formula efficacy. Amorepacific’s new paper containers reduce 70% of plastic use, while increasing expiration dates by 36 months. In January 2021 Amorepacific joined the 2031 Cosmetics Plastic Initiative, held by the Korean Cosmetic Association. The initiative is focused on solving the industry’s plastic crisis and implementing circular packaging models by 2030. Amorepacific most recently made waves in Australia with its acquisition of a majority-share in cult-home grown skincare brand Rationale. The conglomerate holds a 40% market share in Korea and is rapidly expanding in Europe and the West - their commitment to developing sustainable solutions will have significant repercussions for the industry.

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NEWS BLC COSMETICS APPOINTED EXCLUSIVE DISTRIBUTOR FOR PRIORI SKINCARE IN AUSTRALIA AND NZ BLC Cosmetics has announced their appointment as the exclusive distributor of Priori Skincare in Australia, New Zealand and Pacific Islands. The therapist favourite includes classics such as the Natural Soothing Balm, Enlightening Peel Pads and Illumination Treatment. Nikki Somerset, CEO of BLC Cosmetics said, “We are delighted to welcome Priori to our suite of skincare brands. The brand complements our existing brand portfolio with a unique positioning within our core offer via highly active AHA based formulations.” Priori Skincare recognises that skin is an intricate communication system. With that in mind, all Priori products are formulated to read the skin, decoding its need for replenishment, hydration, protection and recovery. The products respond with active ingredients and delivery systems to meet skin needs. A team of dedicated scientists and formulators rely on more than 100 years of collective experience and together are the creators of some of the biggest breakthroughs in skin

science, including AHAs, LED devices, Idebenone, DNA repair enzymes and most recently Tetra with four levels of environmental protection. Regis Haberkorn, President of Priori Skincare said, “Priori offers the most advanced, clinically proven solutions found on the market, and are proud to say they are more than just skincare, we are skin science. We have had a strong representation in the Australian market and look forward to working with BLC Cosmetics to stabilise our recent supply challenges and to go from strength to strength.” Ms Somerset added: “Our goal us to enable a smooth transition for existing Priori customers while maintaining the current growth with our existing customers and brand portfolio.” Available in Australia since 2005, Priori is represented in an estimated 150 salons and spas with a strong presence on prestige aggregated e-commerce sites in Australia as well as an owned e-commerce site.

VICTORIAN GOVERNMENT LAUNCHES GRANT FOR FEMALE SALON OWNERS The fund is set to empower women in business. The Victorian Government is committed to assisting female entrepreneurs, and has released more details about its $10 million Women’s Angel Sidecar Fund. The scheme will see the state government take part in earlystage startup funding rounds for businesses including salons. Their investment will make up a third of the total round, with private sector investors making up the difference. That means up to $30 million in funding could potentially be released for investment into women-led startups. The fund has been dubbed The Alice Anderson Fund, after the woman who opened the first all-women garage in Australia, in Kew, back in 1919. “Victoria has many modern-day Alice Andersons and we’ll continue to back their innovation, excellence, vision and commitment,” Victorian Minister for Women Gabrielle Williams said in a statement. Minister for Innovation Jaala Pulford suggested the new fund will serve to level the playing field for local startups, ensuring more women-led startups can secure access to early-stage funding. “At all stages of the startup life cycle, women-founded firms are a significant minority,” she said. “This is a pivotal time to

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support women entrepreneurs to drive economic growth and create new jobs.” Providing investments of between $50,000 and $300,000, it is expected that the fund will back at least 40 startups over three years. To be eligible for the funding, a business must be 50% owned by women, or have 30% ownership stake by women and at least one woman in an executive role. Applications open in July.

NEWS ESK LAUNCHES NEW VITAMIN C SERUMS The buzz-product of 2021 is shaping up to be Vitamin C serums. Educated customers are clued in on the benefits of the ingredient, and the pressure is on skin therapists to ensure they have an in-salon offering. But just what is it about the wonder ingredient that has customers seeking it out? Proven as an effective treatment for fine lines and wrinkles as well as pigmentation and texture, Vitamin C is ideal for both young and mature skin types, and marries well with a long list of other actives. By helping to boost collagen production when applied topically — rather than orally — Vitamin C maintains a skin barrier function and improves the body’s natural ability to heal wounds. Riding on the wave of Vitamin C’s popularity, ESK has created Reverse C Serum and C Serum Lite. Containing 10 percent L-Ascorbic Acid, a concentration which balances strong evidence for high skin tolerance and product stability, the Reverse C Serum and C Serum Lite by Evidence Skincare (ESK) is formulated to combat UV-induced free radicals,

improve collagen synthesis, reduce hyperpigmentation and protect against sun damage. Unlike plants and most animals, Vitamin C cannot be synthesised by the human body due to the absence of an enzyme called L-gulono-gammalactone oxidase. While we are able to obtain supplementation from our food and skincare, not all Vitamin C derivatives are created equal, which makes the ingredient notoriously hard for consumers to navigate. On a mission to educate and empower consumers with science and knowledge, Australian GP and co-founder of Evidence Skincare (ESK), Dr. Ginni Mansberg, recommends L-Ascorbic Acid as the only evidence-based form of topical Vitamin C shown in studies to reverse the signs of premature ageing. “Although some manufacturers will bond Vitamin C to other chemicals such as Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Ascorbyl Tetra-Isopalmitate to improve its stability and absorption, L-Ascorbic Acid is the only reliable form of Vitamin C on the market with strong, documented evidence supporting its anti-ageing

FACEBOOK HANDS POWER TO SALON OWNERS Salon owners are being given the green light to silence certain commenters. If your salon has a Facebook page, there’s a good chance you’ve received comments on your posts you’d rather not have. And if they happen to slip through your radar, they can stay up and on display for longer than you realise. Business owners have been campaigning for change, and Facebook has listened, introducing a new tool that allows salon owners more control over who can comment on their public posts. Like Twitter has done for some time, the new Facebook tool will allow salon owners to control who comments, choosing whether to let anyone who can see the post comment, or whether to restrict commenting to either friends only or the people and pages tagged. The setting can be applied either to every public post on your profile or to individual posts. In a statement, Facebook said the change is designed to help offer users and organisations more control of the conversation around their posts, and to “limit potentially unwanted interactions”. Currently, the publishers of Facebook posts — including salons — can be held liable for defamatory comments on their posts. That responsibility was upheld by the New South Wales Court of Appeal last year.

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benefits,” said Dr. Ginni. “As a highly unstable molecule, L-Ascorbic Acid must be formulated at a pH of 3.5 or less to penetrate the skin’s waterproof barrier and remain stable. “It must also be packaged in an opaque, airless bottle to ensure its long-term effectiveness and protect from oxidisation,” said Dr. Ginni. Formulated to meet these particular requirements, the Reverse C Serum combines 1% Tocopherol (Vitamin E) which evidence suggests increases the effectiveness of L-Ascorbic Acid. C Serum Lite, an option ideal for oiler skin types, is formulated in an anhydrous base to provide optimal skin penetration without the added hydration. “Vitamin C is a must-have ingredient for all age groups,” said Dr. Ginni. “It protects your skin from free radicals created by excess exposure to the sun, cigarette smoking, and other environmental pollutants. It also combats inflammation and other cellular processes that accelerate ageing in the skin.”

The change has started to be rolled out, but it could reportedly take up to two weeks before every profile and page has the ability to turn off comments on their posts. Reactions to the news on Twitter have been largely celebratory. One user noted that it will now be easier for businesses to protect themselves from legal action if they don’t delete problematic comments quickly enough. Others noted that Twitter has had this functionality for some time and that Facebook is “finally catching up”.

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NEWS Concessional loans Loans of up to $130,000 at a fixed concessional interest rate may be available to small businesses, primary producers and non-profits (subject to certain eligibility criteria) that have been directly impacted.

$50,000 GRANTS FOR FLOOD-HIT SALONS

If your salon has been affected by recent floods, you could be eligible. The NSW Government has announced additional grants to salons under the Disaster Recover Funding Arrangements (DRFA), funded by both the State and Commonwealth Governments. Disaster Recovery Funding Arrangements (DRFA) have been activated in the 34 local government areas of: Armidale, Bellingen, Central Coast, Cessnock City, Clarence Valley, Coffs Harbour City, Dungog Shire, Kempsey, Lake Macquarie, Maitland City, Mid-Coast, Nambucca, Newcastle City, Port Macquarie-Hastings, Port Stephens, Tenterfield, Blacktown, Blue Mountains, Camden, Campbelltown, Canterbury Bankstown, Cumberland, Fairfield, Hawkesbury, Hornsby, Inner West, Ku-ring-gai, Liverpool, Northern Beaches, Parramatta, Penrith, Sutherland, The Hills and Wollondilly.

Disaster Recovery Allowance A fortnightly income supplement that is available to primary producers and sole traders who have lost income as a direct result of the disaster. Small business recovery grants up to $10,000 (income loss) The grants are designed to help small business that have experienced a significant decline in revenue. The grant could be used to meet business costs, seek financial advice or to adjust the business and make it more resilient. Small business recovery grants up to $50,000 (direct damage) These grants are designed to provide short-term targeted assistance for recovery and reinstatement activities, including safety inspections, repairs to premises and internal fittings, and replacement of stock. For more information on eligibility criteria, visit the Services Australia website or contact the Australian Government Information Hotline on 180 22 66 for claims assistance.

DO YOU HAVE A SUCCESSION PLAN FOR YOUR FAMILY BUSINESS?

If your salon is a family business, and you have plans for your children or other family members to take it over at some point, then this is for you. With over half of Australian family businesses not having put a succession plan in place, and no retirement plan for the current CEO, it’s probably fair to say that some guidance would be useful for those planning to pass their salon onto their family. With that in mind, the “Introductory Guide to Family Business Succession Planning” – co-produced by Family Business Australia and the Australian Small Business and Family Enterprise Ombudsman’s office – provides a step-by-step guide to passing the family business on to the next generation. “Succession planning can be challenging,” Family Business Australia (FBA) CEO Greg Griffith says. “But with the right approach, supported by quality information and advice, you can achieve rewarding outcomes. Our guide provides a great starting point for families in business to consider the what, why and how of transitioning the business to the next generation.” Australian Small Business and Family Enterprise Ombudsman Kate Carnell says there has never been a more important time to initiate a succession plan, given the highest proportion of business owners are aged between 45 and 59 years. “Australia’s most successful family business stories — and there are many — are a result of well-executed succession planning,” Ms Carnell says.

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“However, a KPMG report reveals 54% of family businesses have no documented succession plan in place and no retirement plan for the current CEO. With close to 60% of Australian small business owners approaching retirement age, Ms Carnell said now is the time to ensure your salon’s succession plan is put in place. “This generational shift presents a number of challenges for the sector and the economy more broadly as some business owners may find it difficult to attract a buyer. It really highlights the need for meticulous succession planning for those family business owners who are planning to retire in the coming years.” “The key to families working well together is to have really open and honest communication, which can be difficult when your boss, colleague or direct report is also a member of your family,” Mr Griffith says. “Our succession planning guide offers practical tips to ensure an orderly transition process.”

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NEWS IS IT TIME TO FRANCHISE?

You’ve built your salon from the ground up, and it’s doing really well. Is it time to consider franchising? If you have a successful business that you want to expand, you can consider franchising. If managed well, it can open your product or service to new markets and extend your brand’s reach. There is no specific franchise registration or approval process, but establishing a franchise is a legal process and can take some time. Not every business will suit expansion through a franchise model. If you do decide a franchise model is right for you, recruiting new franchisees can be challenging. Not everyone is suited to franchising, of those who are, not everyone will suit your brand. Recruiting the wrong person could cost your brand more over time than it would to recruit the right candidate. Research shows that while digital marketing attracts the highest quantity of enquiries, the best franchisee candidates come from people already working in your business or through referrals from existing franchisees. Before you franchise your salon: Get advice It’s important to get professional advice from an accountant, lawyer and business adviser with expertise in franchising. Make sure you have a successful and proven franchise model Operating your own franchise model before selling a franchise to someone else can help improve your concept, establish demand and create good processes and systems that can be repeated in each new franchise. Conduct due diligence by researching the franchise system and talk to other franchisors and franchisees. Complying with the law As a franchisor, you must comply with the law of contract, Franchising Code of Conduct and Australian Consumer Law (ACL). A franchise agreement is a contract that contains legal rights and obligations. The Franchising Code of Conduct requires franchisors to disclose certain information to both potential and existing franchisees. It also sets out minimum conditions relating the rights of the parties under a franchise agreement. Under the ACL you must not use misleading, deceptive or unconscionable conduct in your business dealings. Independent legal advisers can assist you to understand other federal and state laws that affect franchising your business. For example, there are workplace laws that affect certain franchisors. Franchisors can be held responsible for their franchisees’ conduct and subject to enforcement action, court proceedings and penalties if their franchisees have contravened the Fair Work Act 2009 (FW Act). Working relationship with franchisees If you decide to franchise your business, it’s vital that you have a good working relationship with your franchisees. Take care when you select a franchisee to ensure they are a good fit for your franchise business. Under the Franchising Code you must act in good faith in your business dealings with each other.

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Franchise tax obligations As a franchisor, you need to understand your tax obligations and how franchising fees are treated for tax purposes. It’s also important to review your income tax and goods and services tax (GST) reporting requirements. In most cases all payments you receive from a franchisee will be assessable income. They will also involve GST. As with any business, your business structure, assets and income will determine your taxation requirements. Record keeping obligations By law, you’re required to keep written material that the Franchising Code requires, or allows a franchisee or prospective franchisee to provide to you. The documents you must keep include: • requests for a disclosure document • notices of dispute • confirmations of receipt of disclosure document • professional advice statements • requests to transfer a franchise to a third party (and any additional information provided regarding the transfer) • requests not to disclose former franchisee details • any documents that you use to support any claims or statements made in your disclosure document You must keep your records for six years from when they were created. The Australian Competition and Consumer Commission (ACCC) can request the documents in accordance with its power to conduct checks of a franchisor’s compliance with the Franchising Code.

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NEWS MODELROCK LAUNCHES MY ECO BEAUTY KIT

MODELROCK, the anti-cruelty, vegan lashes brand, has upped its environmental credentials by launching sister brand, My Eco Beauty Kit. Created for the environmentally conscious makeup artist, My Eco Beauty Kit is a collection of eco-friendly makeup tools for those looking for a sustainable alternative, stored in an equally ecofriendly tool box. MODELROCK’s My Eco Beauty Kit presents a range of bamboo makeup tools that are 100% recyclable/ biodegradable and compostable, plus a range of reusable makeup-removing sponges to help reduce use of all of those single-use wipes. The bamboo makeup tools are perfect for applying makeup hygienically; there is a tool for everything ranging from mascara wands through to lipgloss wands, eyeliner wands, eye brushes, eyeshadow wands and even cotton buds. “We chose products that we knew makeup artists use on a daily basis and items that we can’t really live without and created an eco-friendly version of them,” says MODELROCK CEO & Owner,

Raelene Mara. “In creating these we also designed and developed a FULL EcoFriendly tool kit, which is extra special to me as the tool box itself is eco-friendly and sustainable — even eco-friendly ink was used for printing on the box!” The pre-packed Tool Kit also includes a mascara wand kit with five different sizes — ranging from a large tapered head for fully coating the lashes through to the micro-mini mascara wands, perfect for those hard to reach inner corner lashes. A second pre-packed Tool Kit option includes a mixed option with mascara wands, lipgloss wands, eyeliner brush wands, lip brush wands and dual spongetip eyeshadow applicators. “To know that we are making an impact on the health and welfare of the planet in reducing our carbon footprint is amazing and something we have been very proud of in creating the My Eco Beauty Kit,” says Raelene. With so much diversity in the eco-friendly product offerings, MODELROCK will also be offering a “Create-Your-Own” tool kit, allowing all beauty and environmentally conscious fanatics to select their own range of bamboo makeup tools, with all products

YOU NEED A MENTOR

As salon owners, we’ve all had people we’ve looked up to throughout our career. But do we have a real mentor? The right mentor is more than just someone to give you business advice – they can be your coach, sounding board, reality check, counsellor and cheerleader. They’ve been there and they’ve done it. If you don’t have someone you’ve created a mentor-mentee relationship with, here’s why you should consider it. They keep you motivated You’re the boss of your salon, and as such, it’s your job to keep your team motivated and achieving their best. But who keeps you going? Who holds you accountable? “Having someone that checks in on you and reviews your progress towards your commitments and goals is invaluable,” says business expert Carley James. “Sitting down with someone and checking in on how you’re tracking is a pretty sure way to ensure you keep kicking goals.” They can connect you Whether you’re looking for a new supplier, financial advisor or mental health expert, having an impartial mentor in your corner can come in handy. “They’ve been around, and a good mentor is impartial. They’ll give you advice that’s in your best interest, and it comes from a place of experience,” says Carley.

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stored in their own Eco-Friendly tool kit box. Another perk to owning a My Eco Beauty Kit is that you can refill it with all your favourite MODELROCK ecofriendly tools time and again, and continue to reduce your impact on landfills to have a positive effect on the environment. Says Raelene “My partner in business and life, Jeremy, and I are animal lovers and have always been committed to ensuring all MODELROCK products are vegan and cruelty-free, and with our My Eco Beauty Kit, we are making a further positive and mindful impact in our business and the world, and we are extremely proud of that.”

They can give you a confidence boost As business owners, we’ve all questioned if it’s worth it at times, right? And whether we’re cut out for this work, whether we should walk away. Having a mentor on hand is like having a direct line to an unclouded opinion. “A mentor cares about you, for sure, but they’re in a better position to be objective about something than you may be, because it’s not their business. So when you’re feeling overwhelmed, a mentor can step in, remind you of everything you’re doing right, where you can improve and give you the mental tools to make a clearer decision.”

NEWS MAKE YOUR SMS MARKETING PERSONAL Throughout 2020, many salons turned to SMS to keep their clients updated on lockdowns, re-openings and everything in between. It was inexpensive and it was effective. Now that SMS has become a regular part of our marketing, it’s time for salon owners to take a closer look at their communications strategies, making sure they’re optimised for the year ahead. Get personal A study by Wunderman found 79 per cent of consumers said brands need to demonstrate they understand and care about them before they consider a purchase. In the social-media age of instant gratification, nobody wants to feel like one of the masses — people want to feel special and that businesses value them specifically as a customer. This is why personalisation in customer communication is so important. Make it two-way Personalising SMS messages for your customer base is a positive way to grab attention and build rapport, but you can take it one step further and engage in meaningful conversation with customers, which will strengthen long-term relationships. Two-

way SMS services are an effective way to achieve this. “This is especially effective in the beauty salon business,” says marketing expert Mary-anne Delman. “A simple SMS, using the customer’s name and asking how their skin is responding to a recent, specific treatment, will make that client feel important and valuable, especially when they have the option to share their concerns and receive an informative response from you.” Be reliable Consistent and effective messages will help cultivate trust with customers. But don’t overdo it, warns Marry-anne. “Saturating someone’s inbox with texts is a sure way to have them search for the ‘unsubcribe’ option. But regular, weekly updates can be well received, especially when the content is relevant to that particular person. On that note, make sure you are sending specific clients relevant texts. Sending a menopausal woman a text promoting pregnancy massage likely won’t go down well.”

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VIEWPOINT

THE GREEN INGREDIENTS There is much hype about the introduction of beauty products utilising the benefits of cannabis oil. Anita Quade chats to Director of Cannabi7, June Wilde about her new formulation and the skincare advancements. Tell us about the launch of Cannabi7 – how was it developed? “The CANNABI7 range is the result of hard work by the different departments at AINHOA: Laboratory & R+D, Technical Advisors, Marketing, Communication and Sales. Every last detail was given great care in all phases of the process to achieve a quality range of products that is “ground breaking” in the market. The key points are: • Natural range: Its formulas have an exceptionally high percentage of natural-origin ingredients (97%) according to ISO Standard 16.128, which is accepted worldwide. • Multi-action effect: It offers the skin 7 benefits — it nourishes, hydrates, regenerates, soothes, protects and is rich in Omega-3, Omege-6 and Omega-9 and pomotes well being in the skin. • Gluten free & ECO CERT • Active ingredients that are hyper-revolutionary in skincare and even more so in the professional channel: Organic Cannabis Oil and Natural Cannabis Extract. Amber oil, Apricot oil and Almond oil.

Can you tell us about the road to launching this in Australia and the legislation that allows for Cannabis to be used in skincare? “There is a growing sense of how to apply this ingredient in the cosmetic industry, but that doesn’t mean, we don’t need to proceed with caution. For that reason, it was so important in this skincare development to study the related legalities, regulations and dosage worldwide. That means making sure that our products contain no tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), the active ingredient that produces the ‘high’ in marijuana. That’s the reason why there was a thoughtful process of research to find a source of hemp seed oil that could be 100% safe, that showed efficacy for skin and sustainability. This research was worth doing, since we must keep in mind that the resulting hemp seed oil contained in our products is extracted from high-quality seeds only — these permitted species can be grown in Europe and plantations are controlled, which means the authorities give farmers the authorization to harvest the field. Our Hemp Seed Oil, certified100% organic by Ecocert Greenlife according to COSMOS standard, has a high and balanced essential fatty acid content (Omegas -3 ,-6 and -9), which makes it an ideal ingredient in skincare products and contains no THC. It was crucial to make sure this ingredient

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showed not only proven efficacy, but also that had been approved by most of the legislations worldwide, which include Australia, USA, Europe, Canada, China, Japan and India. Another important issue was sustainability, which includes traceability of sourcing and a high-quality, secured supply chain.”

What benefits does Cannabis have in skincare as opposed to other ingredients? • Potent anti-inflammatory and antibacterial traits • Tackles Acne, Eczema and Psoriasis • Elements essential to synthesise the structural components of the skin, preventing premature aging and safeguarding against sun damage. • Plus the 7 main benefits I mentioned above, hence the name Cannabi7

What has the reaction been like in the marketplace to the range? “It has been anticipated with excitement and besides the amazing skin advantages and advancement in technology there is also a new respect for the environment. Packaging comes from sustainably managed forests. Boxes contain no cellophane or package inserts. All information is printed on the box.”

Where are you stocked salon wise? “At the moment it has been released in Perth as that is where I’m based. It is in professional beauty salons and on my online website: www.ainhoacosmetics.com.au.”

How do you see the range expanding as Cannabis becomes a hero ingredient in skincare? “The result has exceeded our expectations and achieving great success among beauty professionals and consumers around the world so we will look at expansion as it progresses.”

What is the stand out product in the range? “Well, with my mature skin I’m in love with the 50ml Cannabi7 Oil, which I apply at night and can add a few drops to my day cream when necessary.”

Are you Australian made? “Ainhoa the name of “beautiful lady” was born in Barcelona with the Oriental wisdom of plant-based ingredients and Western scientific knowledge. For me Ainhoa stands for: Innovation, Quality, Effeciency and mostly Results.”

MARTIN LANE FOUNDED Sydneybased Cannabiz in 2020 — a group of passionate advocates for Australia’s Cannabis industry. He reveals the clear benefits and future of utilising Cannabidiol in products.

How have you seen the interest in using Cannabis both for medicinal purposes and other uses rise over the past few years? “There is a much greater understanding of the health benefits of Cannabis since medicinal cannabis was legalised in 2016, and more people have begun using it. However, it is still a heavily regulated, medical industry here. That will change over time, but the experience in New Zealand recently suggests we’ve still a way to go before there’s a majority in favour of legalising recreational use.”

Can you share the updated legislation on the use of Cannabis-based products in Australia? “The big change to the regulations came in December last year, when the Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) down-scheduled low-dose Cannabidiol (CBD, the nonpsychoactive part of the plant) for sale over the counter in pharmacies. However, it is important to note that the decision limits over-the-counter (Schedule 3) supply to products that

are approved by the TGA and included on the Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods (ARTG). There are currently no TGA-approved products on the ARTG that meet the Schedule 3 criteria, and it’s likely to be another 12 months before any product gets approved. In other words, consumers hoping to walk into their pharmacy and buy CBD without a script in 2021 are likely to be disappointed. They will still need to see a doctor and get a prescription.”

What are the benefits of relaxing the restrictions like the rest of the world for the use of Cannabis in products? “In the UK, Cannabis is a health and wellness product, whereas in Australia it is still treated as a medicine. This makes it hard to get hold of — many doctors have not been trained in the endocannabinoid system and the benefits of medicinal Cannabis — and expensive. Many Australian patients still source Cannabis from the black market, for reasons of cost and convenience. Of course, this means they are breaking the law and have no guarantees about the safety and efficacy of what they’re taking. In many US states and in Canada, recreational Cannabis is legal, meaning Governments benefit from all the economic activity the industry generates, including cannabis tourism (see Colorado), celebrity chefs, film/sports star endorsements, etc.” www.cannabiz.com.au

Cultivating Goodness

The founder of the new Australian cosmeceutical and wellness company CULTIVATECO. Trudy Stone chats to Anita Quade about skincare centred around sustainability. Tell us what inspired you to develop the CULTIVATECO. range and what can we expect moving forward? “We are a group of professionals with an absolute passion for people and the planet. Our team has been actively dedicated to researching and developing 100% plant-based wellness products for several years. Our goal is to create premium, healthy and effective products that anyone, from any walk of life and of any age, will be comfortable using, benefit from and absolutely love. As a company, we seek excellence in our approach and aspire to be the absolute best in the market.”

Can you share with us the hero ingredients in your products? “We mix the best plant ingredients with the best scientific knowledge and the best formulators to bring the best skin and wellness products to our customers. We want to always be on the cutting edge of wellness technology, bringing new hero-actives and products to the market as we move forward. It is difficult to single out only a few ingredients as we put a great deal of time and effort in selecting the best every time, yet as someone with highly reactive, sensitive skin the hemp seed oil base of our signature serum stands out for its calming and hydrating

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properties. Kakadu plum and ucuuba are two ingredients with a long and consequential history of traditional medicine use and it’s easy to see why; I particularly love the fact that ucuuba is ultra-hydrating but is so light and non-greasy. It really feels very luxurious on your skin. Moringa is not called the Miracle Tree without reason; it has such an impressive nutrient profile for overall health and numerous benefits for the skin. “ But almost as important as what’s IN our products is what´s OUT! There are absolutely NO parabens, sulphates, phthalates, animal products, petrochemical derivatives or synthetic fragrances. All CULTIVATECO. products are 100% natural, 100% vegan and cruelty-free and 100% sustainably sourced, and we are on an incredible mission to reach 100% plant-based ingredients in all of our products.

Let’s face it, 2020 was a tough year. How did you develop the product during this time? “A significant component of the development process is very sensory, which required greater patience with extended timelines and the necessity to adapt our methods. But after a tumultuous final year in development, we have released our premiere range — a complete skin and body care offering of nine products, incorporating soughtafter and new-to-market plant powerhouse ingredients.”

“Our launch product is our signature serum GLOWRIOUS™, a 100% plant formulation that does it all. It’s the one product I never skip no matter how busy! The range has everything you need, from everyday essentials such as CLEAN CANVASTM foaming cleanser to DEWY DAYSTM all-in-1 mist. BALM2CALMTM is another product I have with me everywhere; again a 100% plant ingredient multi-purpose product for lips, skin and even brows and hair. And for your weekly deep clean and exfoliation to allow all of the product to work effectively, our DIG DEEP TM plant and clay mask reveals renewed, fresh skin. A night-time routine is taken care of with our intensive care for eyes I.C.U.TM, and the luxurious CRÈME DE LA CRÈME™ day/night cream for extended hydration. And the body isn’t left out either! Our rich lathering, smooth as silk BODI BARE™ body wash followed by the soothing hydration of FONDUE METM body butter will leave your whole body beautifully clean, soft and hydrated. I love the lingering aroma I get after using these two products — the scent is so uplifting and fresh.” All of our products are formulated for sensitive skin, something I can attest to with highly reactive and sensitive skin! Every product is rigorously tested for safety and stability during development, and we are in the process, within the unpredictable timeframes of a world in revolving lockdowns at the moment, of completing our clinical testing. I look forward to sharing these independent assessments of what our products can do for our customers.”

What has the reaction been like to the range? “We have had fantastic feedback from our customers and testing volunteers, and we’re incredibly proud of the team and the beautiful products we have launched so far this year.”

Can you tell me a bit about the origins of CULTIVATECO.? “The CULTIVATECO. story has evolved over many years as passionate people on parallel paths have come together from all over the world and merged their synergistic experiences. We come from professions as diverse as the beauty and wellness industries, scientists (including botanists), dermatologists, chemists and formulators, as well as eco-agriculturalists and experts in logistics, investment and governance and community and social specialists. What ties us together is a very genuine commitment to wholistic personal wellness and a healthy planet.”

COVER STORY

Tell us about your range…

formulation, skin care and beauty products, wholesale and retail experience, international corporate management, and that we could wrap it up with our experience in developing-nation education, gender equality, social and economic project execution.”

What is the ethos behind the range? “The bottom line is that we wanted to bring the best-in-class, all-plant skincare products to the market, while at the same time remaining absolutely committed to positively impacting the world through active engagement in supporting developing nations. That’s why we not only talk about the UN Agenda 2030 and the 17 sustainable development goals, but we actively work to advance those we can. They are real to us and we want to take our customers on that incredible journey with us.”

Your company is also big on giving back. Tell us about that… “We have started and continue to support programmes in Latin America and Africa, and it’s amazing to see the very real changes that we can all have on families around the planet through the choices we make in our daily lives here. We will continue to expand our footprint with direct involvement in more programmes, with an additional key goal to be actively sourcing sustainable products and ingredients from communities on every continent over the coming years.”

Can you tell us more about your sustainability efforts and what sort of community programmes are being supported through the UN Agenda 2030 commitment? “The concept of sustainability has evolved in recent years to include future-focused practices that work towards the regeneration of a healthy planet that can support our human existence in harmony, in perpetuity. We have to shift our actions to fit a circular economy model: design out waste, keep resources in use through recycling and repurposing, and regenerate the environment. Moving on from the linear take-make-dispose

How did the concept come to fruition? “A few years ago, our founding team came together and were discussing our experiences and efforts during the course of our careers and, more particularly, how we might have had more of an impact on the world. We had a lightbulb moment and committed to an absolutely clean-sheet range of pure plant-based skincare products, using the best available ingredients from around the world. We knew that we could bring to the table a lot of the key elements… organic, regenerative agriculture, cosmeceutical

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model as a hangover of the industrial revolution will see genuine progress in achieving sustainability across all sectors. The beauty industry has in the past been a significant contributor to waste and unsustainable resource use. However, it is encouraging to see so many brands and businesses taking steps to be more sustainable. CULTIVATECO. is looking to lead by example and to make every decision point a contribution to a better planet, including healthier people.”

Explain to us CULTIVATECO.’s global sustainability initiatives as part of the three primary concepts. Primary ingredients: “We have a very clear set of objectives when it comes to sourcing primary ingredients. We give absolute priority to purchasing from family and community owned producers, with a requirement that they be managed with regenerative, organic practices. We give preference to ingredients supplied from their natural point of origin, and we have numerous suppliers that are community collectives and indigenous-owned organisations. A great example of how environmental and socio-economic sustainability are fundamentally linked can be seen in the production of one of our favoured ingredients — ucuuba. The ucuuba tree is native to the Amazon Basin in South America and, while it has a long history of traditional medicine use by indigenous communities of the area, in modern times the tree has been cut down for wood as a source of income within the forest economy. But as it’s a slow-growth tree, this was not sustainable, and the ucuuba became endangered. However, by understanding the traditional uses and knowledge of the plant, and through modern scientific research, the health benefits of the ucuuba nut, particularly for the skin, have evolved the industry. The Amazon communities have shifted to a sustainable model where the tree fruit is harvested, propogated and managed in the wild forest, providing a far greater recurring income for communities than when wood was the primary resource, while also protecting the biodiversity of the environment.”

Packaging: “Every step of the design process has the potential to positively impact our sustainability footprint. Our packaging materials and technology have been meticulously researched to comply with our eco-packaging aspirations. All the materials that

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we use must be recyclable at minimum and biodegradable or compostable wherever possible. We always favour materials that have already been recycled prior to our use. At present we are predominantly using glass in our packaging. Glass is infinitely recyclable so, rather than constantly extracting new resources from the planet, we are putting existing material back into the circular economy so it gets used over and over again. When the technology is there to make suitable bioplastics the better choice, we will incorporate these into our products, and already our labels are printed on bio-based plastics using recycling friendly adhesives. Post packaging can be particularly wasteful but we are very happy that we have achieved a completely compostable solution, including raw cardboards, ink-free labelling, plant pulp homecompostable mailing bags and plant starch packing beans. We also use carbon-neutral delivery partners. We are really looking forward to introducing innovative new packaging elements later this year that further our sustainability goals. We are excited to be working with a European design and innovation group on a range of new high-tech packaging components. It is always gratifying to work with like-minded suppliers and partners to push the boundaries of what is currently available, to not be limited by what is, but lead the way to what will be.”

Finally, investment into programmes that achieve UN Agenda 2030 standing. “As our group has been continuously involved in community development programmes in developing nations for over 20 years, it’s hard to know when the CULTIVATECO. commitment began. It’s always been there! Indigenous peoples have an incredible wealth of knowledge about the natural world, with cultures across the world having thousands of years of traditional medicine, cultural practice and environmentally harmonious resource use centered on native

COVER STORY

flora. By seeking to understand and learn from that knowledge, we aim to incorporate this significantly under-valued expertise into the mainstream wellness and skincare space, while respecting and supporting the recognition of and economic rights to the benefits of that knowledge via partnership and development programmes. Our active programmes include the Socialis Foundation programmes in Colombia´s southern Nariño district, where the UN-trained team has completed a nine-month social baseline in an impoverished and violence-stricken region. The project also includes an alliance to develop an organic farming research centre where three launch programmes have already begun: the cultivation and extraction of plant medicinals, family and community food-forests and finally a community education and life skills centre for knowledge exchange and learning. We are also actively supporting the Rio Rayo project in northern Colombia, where an extensive land rehabilitation project is underway. The objective is to raise and plant over 1 million trees on illegal-mining-damaged land. The key partners in this project include the Hacienda Rio Rayo farm and FUNDAMUET, which is the unemployed heads-of-family women’s cooperative from the community of Tarazá, where 108 mothers-of-families are now being employed. In addition, CULTIVATECO. is developing the Ross & Locke Eco-Regenerative farm in Far North Queensland. It’s a small slice of paradise and our primary research property, focused on better understanding the wealth of native Australian and other

exotic botanical species with wellness and therapeutic properties. The property is 100% off-grid and provides CULTIVATECO. with an all-important carbon-negative footprint.”

What are some of the challenges you face? “Achieving a pure plant-based preservation system is a challenging aspect of formulation. There are a number of plantbased preservatives available, however in some formulations their functional efficacy is insufficient to ensure the high level of consumer safety and shelf life we demand of our products. Innovations are happening every day and this is an area where we are dedicating a lot of research effort.” “As with all aspects of our development, and in particular with packaging, it’s an ongoing process of research and testing as new products and materials come onto the market, and in particular bio-based materials designed to replace traditional plastics. While these innovations present fantastic opportunities, it takes time to assess the suitability of new materials and products. So long as we both demand more from our suppliers and actively contribute to knowledge and development of new products and processes, progress will continue to be made. The wonderful thing about a challenge is it is a lightning rod of opportunity to do things better and more sustainably, to push boundaries and innovate and find new solutions.”

Share with us the vision going forward with your future CULTIVATECO. product releases… “Our development and release pipeline over the next few years is really exciting. Staying true to our 100% plant-based mission and expanding our wellness offerings, we are working to deliver cannabinoid enhanced skincare in our CULTIVATECO.+ range; as well as a dedicated masculine skincare range, CULTIVATECO. Man; an intimate products range, CULTIVATECO. After Dark; and one I am especially excited about, CULTIVATECO. Ink, for pre-tattoo skin preparation and aftercare. We are also working on a baby and toddler range, which takes the same principle that every one of our products is suitable for sensitive skin and targets the specific needs of our littlest humans. Busy, exciting times ahead!” n Phone: 1800 SKIN LOVE (1800 754 656) Web: www.cultivateco.com.au Email: hello@cultivateco.com.au

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Brace the

FACE As temperatures drop, maintaining the skin barrier is key. Turn to cocooning textures and gentle yet effective formulations to protect your clients’ complexions from the elements.

Photography: Brandee Meier Styling and concept: Ruby Feneley Production assistant: Nicola Maglione

Endota Spa, Mineral Protect SPF50 Sunscreen, Endota marketing@endotaspa.com.au Savar, Gentle Hydrating Antioxidant Moisture Mask, VTN Store support@vtnstore.com Savar, Essential Hydration Moisturiser, VTN Store support@vtnstore.com Mukti, Marigold Hydrating Crème, Mukti 1300 306 554 Endota Spa, Moisture Restore Cleansing Milk, Endota marketing@endotaspa.com.au

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SKINCARE

Payot, Crème No2 Serum Douceur Petales, Payot (02) 9874 1166 Mukti, Hyaluronic Marine Serum, Mukti 1300 306 554 Payot, My Payot Peelin Eclat, Payot (02) 9874 1166 Jurlique, Activating Water Essence+, Jurlique Endota Spa, Advanced Hydration Cream, Endota marketing@endotaspa.com.au Emma Lewisham Skin Reset Serum, Emma Lewisham hello@emmalewisham.co.nz

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Centella Hydra-Plumping Cream - Schmelzkopf Cosmetics 433122201

Palm Beach Coconut and Lime Hand Cream - Palm Beach info@palmbeach.com.au Centella Serum Hydra-Boost+ - Schmelzkopf Cosmetics 43312201

Image Skincare Iluma Intense Facial Illuminator - PBS (PRO BEAUTY SOLUTIONS) 1800 625 387 Endota New Age Mineral Protect Sunscreen SPF50 - Endota endotaspa.com.au

Endota New Age Advanced Hydration Cream - Endota endotaspa.com.au Medik8 Sleep Glycolic -A dvanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011

Biologi B-Hydrated Bundle - Biologi 0490 518 782

Clinique Moisture Surge 100 Hour Auto-Replenishing Hydrator - Clinique 1800 556 948

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SKINCARE

Biologi B-Bright Bundle - Biologi 0490 518 782 Natural Look - Natural Spa Pure Epsom Salts Energy Boost - Artav 1800 805 276

Dermalist Age Defying Multi-Complex - info@dermalist.com.

Synergie Skin Tridation B Mask - Synergie Skin 1300 689 619

Pure Fiji Coconut Cleansing Balm - PBS (PRO BEAUTY SOLUTIONS) 1800 625 387

Sisley Triple Oil Balm - Sisley 1300 780 800

Sisley Eye and Lip Gel Makeup Remover - Sisley 1300 780 800

Rationale #3 Tinted Serum - Rationale (03) 9421 1535

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NATURAL BEAUTIES Achieve a fresh and flawless finish with natural formulations that nourish. From creamy pops of colour for lips and cheeks to skinfood approved complexion concoctions.

Photography: Brandee Meier Styling and concept: Ruby Feneley Production assistant: Nicola Maglione

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MAKE UP

LEFT Jane Iredale, Glow Time Full Coverage Mineral BB Cream SPF25, Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008 Megan Potter, Mineral Blush in Tea Rose, Megan Potter hello@meganpotter.com.au Jane Iredale, Beyond Matte Liquid Foundation, Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008 Ere Perez, Argan Brow Hero in Perfect, Ere Perez (612) 9130 3582 Jane Iredale, Smooth Affair Facial Primer and Brightener, Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008 Ere Perez, Rice Powder Bronzer in Roma, Ere Perez (612) 9130 3582 Jane Iredale, Pure Basics Eyeshadow Kit, Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008 ABOVE Megan Potter, Refillable Eyeshadow Quad: Gilded Find, Goddess, Moody, Rain Dance, Megan Potter hello@meganpotter.com.au Jane Iredale, Smell the Roses Hydration Spray, Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008 Aspect Minerals, Powder Three, Advanced Skin Technology Australia 1800 648 851 Megan Potter, Vegan Kabuki Makeup Brush, Megan Potter hello@meganpotter.com.au Curtis Collection by Victoria, Mineral Shimmer Blush in Marble Rose, Curtis Collection (03) 9421 5577 Curtis Collection by Victoria, Eyeshadow Palette in Soft Nude, Curtis Collection (03) 9421 5577 Megan Potter, Vegan Concealer Brush, Megan Potter hello@meganpotter.com.au

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MAKE UP Trinny London Lip2Cheek Sherin - Trinny London trinnylondon.com.au

Cozmetic Lab Mineral Blush - Cosmetic Lab cozmeticlab.com.au

Ardell Aqua Lashes - Beauty HQ beautyhq@com.au

Aspect Mineral Liquid Three - Aspect 1800 648 851

Trinny London Lip2Cheek Just a Touch Concealer and Foundaton - Trinny London trinnylondon.com.au

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NAILING

The air is getting crisp — just watch as clients gravitate towards cosy fireside tones in classic shapes and shades. Here, we round up the top formulas and finishes for Autumn/Winter 2021. Photography: Brandee Meiers Styling: Hannah Gay

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NAILS

CND Creative Play Nail Lacquer in Berry Busy, Pacific Nail & Beauty 07 5597 4555 CND Creative Play Nail Lacquer in Hottie Tomattie, Pacific Nail & Beauty 07 5597 4555 Jessica Cosmetics Custom Nail Colour in Lava Flow, Jessica Cosmetics 1300 470 648 Mavala Nail Color Cream in Goa, Cosimer 03 9645 1933 Mavala Nail Color Cream in Maputo, Cosimer 03 9645 1933 Mavala Nail Color in Limelight, Cosimer 03 9645 1933 Raww Kale’d It Nail Lacquer in Dark Raww Cherry, Total Beauty Network 03 8544 8000

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TO SAVE

FACE Skin not performing at its best? Luckily we have our pick of a growing catalogue of products known to resolve a plethora of problems. Manage consistent break-outs, a weakened skin barrier (or perhaps an underperforming gut!) with the right curation of ingredients best suited to the needs of your clients. Writer: Ruby Feneley

IT’S WHAT’S INSIDE THAT COUNTS Target the root of skin concerns from the inside-out by addressing the health of the gut. The Gut Co’s FEED (The Gut Co 02 9019 1888) blends pre – and probiotics to support the production of good bacteria.

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MASTERCLASS

GET QUENCHED Beauté Pacifique’s SuperFruit Moisture Enforcement Serum (Beaute Pacifique 03 9562 0513) delivers a boost of hydration and protection from external aggressors with hyaluronic acid, B Vitamin niacinamide and panthenol.

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MASTERCLASS SOFT AND GENTLE Skin Virtue’s Pure Nourish Cleanse (Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011) is a cream-based formula that combines antioxidants ubiquinone and Vitamin E to remove makeup and debris without stripping the skin.

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SMOOTH OPERATOR Twice weekly, slather on Spaceuticals’ Thalasso Smooth mask (Waterlily Skin Body and Spa 07 3390 3988) for a regenerating treat rich in salicylic acid. Marine nutrients, minerals and vitamins replenish exfoliated skin to create the ultimate multi-tasking formulation.

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MASTERCLASS SCULPTING SOLUTION To provide an instant lift to the skin, try Image Skincare’s The Max Contour Gel Crème (Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387). Its plant-rich ingredient list targets skin laxity, while oil microdroplets simultaneously plump the skin — an anti-ageing all-rounder,

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MESMER-EYES As one of the most obvious signs of ageing, fine lines around the eyes should be treated to savvy ingredients, like the niacinamide and sodium hyaluronate in O Cosmedics’s Eye Correct (INSKIN COSMEDICS 02 9712 8188).

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SALON VIEW

The Business of Beauty Beauty Expo Australia returns this year from 28-29 August, bringing together the largest gathering of beauty brands, suppliers and professionals. Anita Quade chats to brand leaders about their beauty showcase at the event.

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TALKING POINT

Pauline Valle

ULTRADERM CREATOR

ULTRADERM What are you looking forward to at this year’s Beauty Expo? “Ultraderm works well across the salon spectrum from successful sole operators to larger skin clinics. After a time of salon closures and restrictions, we are looking forward to one-on-one contact with our salon partners as well as networking with current and prospective business partners to showcase our brand,” says Pauline Valle, Ultraderm Creator. Ultraderm is a complete range that contains active proven ingredients that are not only beneficial in making a positive improvement to skin but are also suitable for conditions like rosacea, acne, stretchmarks, pigmentation and scarring. Ultraderm has products for both professional and retail that have been made using the latest cosmeceutical technology and the highest quality active ingredients.”

What will be one of the major highlights at your stand number: G136? “One of the highlights will be Rezenerate NanoFacial which is one of the newest facial modalities around. Rezenerate uses cutting-edge nano-technology for the best facial ever. Rezenerate allows for increased efficacy of the products they currently use. Whether your treatment facial targets blemishes, fine lines, uneven skin tone, or another condition, using the Rezenerate NanoFacial System will give you both short- and long-term skin improvements without the pain and invasiveness of an expensive and risky medical procedure with great results and no downtime, blood, pain or trauma.” Ultraderm products offer amazing results. The range was built around meeting the needs of the salon owners and therapists who support the brand. It offers a great price point, customisable opening orders, comprehensive

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marketing program (with regular promotional offers and discounts), a customer loyalty rewards program, staff rewards, monthly newsletters, easy to use products that retail well, shareable social media content, training workbooks and guides, training on USB, on-line training, in-house workshops both for product training and sales techniques with video Zoom training offered at a time that suits you. n www.ultraderm.com.au

ONE OF THE HIGHLIGHTS WILL BE REZENERATE NANOFACIAL WHICH IS ONE OF THE NEWEST FACIAL MODALITIES AROUND. REZENERATE USES CUTTING-EDGE NANO-TECHNOLOGY FOR THE BEST FACIAL EVER

SMART GENUINE FACIAL CARE SYSTEM

THE AQUAPURE II IS A MULTI-FUNCTIONAL DERMAL HYDRO FACIAL & BODY CARE DEVICE Combined with wet & dry dermabrasion, micro-focused needling and LED hand-pieces into one single system. AQUAPURE II is equipped with various proprietary solution delivery to infuse exfoliating and antioxidant ingredients into the skin, resulting in improved hydration and skin elasticity with collagen regenerating effects.

AD Peel

Technology

FROM THE MAKERS OF ULTRAFORMER III

AD (AQUA+DIAMOND) PEEL AD Peel Technology creates channels in the skin to enhance delivery of solutions, further maximising the effects of microdermabrasion. While removing dead skin cells, it cleanses pores and delivers moisturising agents and nutrients to the deeper layers of the skin. AQUAPURE II FUNCTIONS INCLUDE • Skin Rejuvenation • Deep Exfoliation & Extraction • Skin Texture • Skin Boost • Transdermal Delivery

VACUUM ASSISTED MF (MICRO-FOCUSED) NEEDLE New transdermal delivery technology with vacuum maximises treatment comfort, efficiency and results. By using a thin needle, nutrients are supplied to the epidermis through microscopic channels and elasticity is improved through epidermal remodelling.

OPTIMIZED APPLICATORS

1300 346 448 | cryomed.com.au Micro Needle

Diamond Peel

Aqua Peel

LED Light Therapy

Distributed in Australia & New Zealand by Cryomed Aesthetics, the leaders in laser and energy based devices

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PAYOT What are you looking forward to at this year’s Beauty Expo? “As a supplier of a treatment skincare to beauty salons and spas we are looking forward to speaking to owners about our company and how we can work together to grow together. The Payot brand last year celebrated 100 years of manufacturing skincare products for beauty therapists and their customers. You could say we have a history of success and this is one reason why salons choose us. Payot continues to work closely with their customers now more than at any other time over its history, with a program designed to create more salon sales and treatments. History?.... Well.... Payot was created by one of the first female doctors in Europe, Dr Nadia Payot who invented cleanse, tone and treat the skin and facial massage in Paris in 1920 — aka “the facial”. We have expertise and know-how. At Beauty Expo we love talking to our current and potential new clients…. We love long term relationships… That’s what we really look forward to.”

What will be one of your major highlights at your stand E141 The Sanctuary? “We have two! The Superskin Healthy Glow recipes and the new Payot Organics, soon to be launched.”

Rita Smith

GENERAL MANAGER

www.payot.com

Professional Beauty Solutions What are you looking forward to at this year’s Beauty Expo? “With the challenges of 2020 and Covid-19 putting a halt to Beauty Expo and events in general last year, we are looking forward to the beauty industry finally getting back to together. Whilst we had to adapt to the change last year, which meant delivering our training and brand/product launches online through webinars and Zoom meetings, we are excited to return to face-to-face events, where we get to meet salon owners and their teams, as well as demonstrating treatments to a live audience. Nothing beats that buzz and the hustle and bustle of Beauty Expo!”

What will be one of your major highlights at your stand G127?

Matt Williams

MANAGING DIRECTOR, PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOLUTIONS

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“The professional beauty industry has changed rapidly over the past 10 years, with high-tech modalities and devices playing a bigger role than ever when it comes to client results — and in turn salon revenue. This year, technology will be our main focus at the PBS stand. Over the past 12 months we have partnered with some of the world’s best manufacturers in aesthetic devices and we’re excited to showcase the most advanced technology and their latest devices to the Australian beauty industry. Expect to see some of our award-winning brands including Dermalux LED and Lynton Lasers, plus our latest brand acquisition, Mesopen Pro - the world’s first Electroporation and Collagen Induction Therapy (CIT) system.” www.probeautysolutions.com.au

TALKING POINT

Shaun Connolly

NATIONAL SALES MANAGER CRYOMED AESTHETICS

CRYOMED What are you looking forward to at this year’s Beauty Expo? “After the unique year that 2020 was, and such a lengthy time apart, we’re so excited to be able to meet with clinic owners face-to-face and introduce all the new technologies we have introduced to the market since we last saw them. In 2020, Cryomed brought 10 new devices to the market so we have a lot of new products to share, like our new hydrodermabrasion system, AquaPure II.”

What will be one of your major highlights at your stand G122? “The Cryomed team love performing live demonstrations at our stand and cannot wait to share our new technologies and treatments in person at Beauty Expo 2021! Most notably, Beauty Expo delegates will see Ultraformer III, AquaPure and TESLAFormer demonstrations live. Our French cosmeceutical skincare line, FILLMED, will also be featured at Beauty Expo with opportunity to touch and feel the wide range of products.” www.cryomed.com.au

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Be a part of Australia’s fastest growing salon brand ✓ Australian cosmeceutical range ✓ Results driven skincare ✓ Select 7 Skin Peel System ✓ Great price point and markup ✓ Easy to use and recommend for retail

Find us on

✓ Annual marketing planner in place with regular promotional activity ✓ UltraRewards - Client Loyalty Program ✓ Staff skincare rewards ✓ Flexible Opening Orders ✓ Regular Salon Training

1300 660 297 ultraderm.com.au

TALKING POINT

LYCON Lydia Jordane

FOUNDER AND CEO LYCON COSMETICS What are you looking forward to at this year’s Beauty Expo? “LYCON Cosmetics is very excited to attend and exhibit at the Sydney Beauty Expo this year. It has been a very tough year for everyone, as it has been for the beauty salons and spas as well. There are so many new rules we need to follow and so many new things we have all had to adapt to, from hygiene to how we attend to our clients, how we socialise, where we can go and what we can generally do. Which, from time to time, stops us in our tracks anyhow, when we have had to go into lockdown and wondered when it will all end. LYCON exhibits at the Beauty Expo each year and we get very excited to prepare for it and the preparations start months ahead. It has been very sad when the trade shows have been cancelled and we have missed them very much. We have been attending all the Sydney tradeshows since 1978, when I first started my business, which have changed in name and composition over the years. Some of them in the past were called a conference — they were exactly a trade show, as we know them now. My staff and I usually travel often each year to see agents, and we also do many seminars and trainings all over Australia, which has either stopped in some areas or the frequency has been greatly reduced, given the ongoing travel restrictions. We very much miss all the contact we usually have with our agents, the salons, the beauty college teachers and their students. We even miss the hard work that happens to set up our beautiful trade show stand and then what we do during the tradeshow when everyone is there, which is the icing on the cake. We absolutely love it all, we find it very exciting to be there and we very much look forward to the Sydney Beauty Expo, so we can see everyone and promote the beauty industry with everyone.”

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What will be one of your major highlights at your stand? “We have not been idle during the lockdowns and the reduced and very much mostly non-existent travel. It has, in fact, given us the opportunity to do a lot of new research and development with many new products, which we will properly launch at the Sydney Beauty Expo this year. Some of the new products that we will display is our LYCON Skin Bioceutical Skincare collection which is in a new adaptive skin science technology. LYCON Skin is a minimalist skincare that offers multi-faceted and multi-functional results, which means each product can adapt to what each individual skin needs to take from each product to protect the skin against environment damage, thus helping to delay the visible signs of ageing, while it also helps to reverse the signs of ageing on all skin types and all age groups. In addition, we are sure everyone will love our new LYCOTANE Plus range for their antibacterial and protective benefits. And of course, we will have all the popular LYCON waxes and our super friendly and helpful staff.” www.lycon.com.au

Style file:

SALLY AXFORD Sally Axford, Global Brand Ambassador for RMS Beauty, Freelance Makeup Artist and Educator You’ve worked with some of the biggest brands in the beauty industry — what have you learnt at RMS working with ‘all natural’ products, and how has it influenced your work? “Meeting Rose-Marie Swift when she launched RMS in Australia was a pivotal moment in my career. She has a no fuss, no rules approach to application and beauty, which was so refreshing and just made sense to me. She’s genius when it comes to enhancing the face with minor tweaks to colour and placement.”

What has been the biggest challenge of your career? “It was leaving what was my dream job – Senior Artist for MECCA Brands, where I spent 11 years. I had always wanted to live overseas and work the European Fashion Week circuit in my own right, so I moved to London to freelance in 2019. I’d put it off until I was 30 so I had no choice but to make the jump. London was definitely a struggle, I felt like I was starting over from scratch and I experienced a lot of anxiety which was new for me — but it was so humbling to

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work alongside artists from around the world who had been working their way up the ranks on backstage teams for years before I got there. I get a kick out of being reminded that there’s always more to strive for. It was a short 7 months thanks to Covid but I achieved more than I thought I would — it was all worth it in the end.”

last year. While I was working on RMS’ IGTV I was also supplementing my income with one-on-one makeup lessons over Zoom with people interstate as well as in person after lockdown. So many people don’t know simple techniques that can enhance their features or make the most of the products they already own.”

Makeup artistry is one of the most ‘hands on’ professions — how did you manage the challenges Covid presented and what have you learnt?

What’s been your most rewarding moment?

“I had just returned from Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks and was working as a freelancer for NARS in London when Covid got serious. I left everything in March 2020 thinking I’d be back in a couple of months — one year on and I’ve resettled back in Melbourne! I was lucky to have met with my friend Rose-Marie Swift in Paris to discuss working as a trainer for RMS Beauty in Europe. While I was sitting out Covid in Adelaide I started creating weekly IGTV videos for their Instagram which eventually led to the position of Global Brand Ambassador in August

“Developing artists and helping people express themselves with makeup is always rewarding for me and I feel so lucky to be able to do that. It was also working with my all-time favourite artists on editorial jobs and shows across Europe that provided several pinch-myself moments.”

What has been the greatest lesson in your time as an MUA? “I have three rules. Firstly, ego has no place in artistry. Secondly, be your own biggest critic (or, my more blunt motto “tear your work apart because there’s always something you can improve”). And thirdly, our industry is really all about relationships and who you know, so make sure to be kind along the way.”

PHOTO:GEORGES ANTONI

@melbfashionweek

STYLE FILE

products and pressing them in with my finger to thin them out and not overload those delicate areas.”

For artists working in salons, what are some easy techniques they can incorporate to make the most of a client’s natural beauty?

“Getting a job at a beauty retailer is crucial — and cheaper than going to makeup school! I’m biased as that’s how I started, but I do believe it’s the best place to learn makeup as you will work on every skin tone and type, face shape, and personality. It teaches you how to connect with strangers, negotiate and manage your time — all necessary things if you want to work on shoots, shows and weddings.”

What’s your go-to product? “I’m loving the RMS Tinted Daily Lip Balms, especially Twilight Lane it can be used as a cream blush. It’s dewy and sheer and gives you a super-natural flushed cheek.”

“I don’t get into trends if I can help it, although something I have noticed is that makeup looks on Instagram and Tik Tok are aligning more with editorial or ‘natural’ makeup. Classically the looks that receive the most likes are the ones with the biggest transformations, but as someone who creates educational videos for people wanting to apply makeup in their day-to-day, its nice to see a more natural approach moving into the mainstream and it makes me feel like less of an outsider!”

on the skin. Get your clients to frown and smile so you can see where they’ll get movement lines during the day, and then take out any excess product from those areas as they most likely don’t need coverage there anyway. Take any excess blush through the eye socket, ideally after you’ve finished the eye, to create harmony and avoid the elements of the makeup looking too separate. I was lucky to learn some skills from Rae Morris and I use her “eye phi” technique on every client; its a foolproof method that works on every eye shape, as long as you stick to it! I pay a lot of attention to texture of products and texture in the look itself. I like to spot powder with a small brush through the T-zone to further highlight the glow on the other areas of the face, as well as using high-pigment lip and eye

Favourite treatment to unwind? “I’ve only heard about this second-hand but now that I’m back in Melbourne I’m very keen to book in with Valli Shubere at Herbario for a Signature Treatment. I love their ethos and every product of theirs that I’ve tried!” n

@SALLY_AXFORD

What are some top trends you’re noticing for Autumn/Winter?

@SALLY_AXFORD

What would you tell an aspiring makeup artist wanting to get their start?

“Before you begin, look at the natural colours in your client’s skin. Instead of blanking it all out with eye primer, foundation or concealer — just to put it all back in artificially — work with the tones already there. A trick I learnt at fashion week overseas was removing product from freckles or beauty spots with a small cotton tip after you’ve finished the complexion. It gives the illusion that the wearer doesn’t have that much product on and avoids any ashiness. Overall it’s important to remember that what makes makeup beautiful isn’t how long it stays on; it’s reflective, hydrated skin, a sheen to the eyelids, a natural sheen to the brow hairs even — all signs of health, which then equals beauty.”

What are some of your best application “tips and tricks”? “With complexion products, the thinner the layers the longer the wear and the less it will warm up and move around

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GREEN BEAUTY

The basics behind

Biossance Biotechnology is rapidly advancing and this beauty brand is ahead of the game when it comes to sustainable practices. Anita Quade chats to Biossance President Catherine Gore about the future of clean beauty.

Can you share with us a little about your background? “I joined Amyris, Biossance’s parent company in July 2018 (Biossance was founded in 2017 by Amyris, a biotechnology company funded by the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation). Prior to joining Biossance, I was global general manager for the Kendo portfolio of beauty brands within LVMH, including Marc Jacobs Beauty, Kat Von D, Disney and Ole Henriksen Skincare. Before that, I was the vice president of Sephora Collection, responsible for the brand re-design and product strategy that lifted Sephora Collection to the #1 brand at Sephora.”

Tell us about the ethos of Biossance? “In 2003, our parent company, Arymis, and their scientists developed a patented technology that created an accessible cure for malaria. Inspired to continue using innovative biotechnology to make a positive impact on the world, we turned to skincare and the ingredients people put on their faces and bodies every day. Drawing on a rich history of science and sustainability, Biossance was built on creating the most effective products using the

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highest clean standards and sustainable practices. With advances in science and technology our clients no longer have to compromise. It’s about helping them make better, cleaner choices for their best skin so it suits their lifestyle. They can be confident in their choice and that it’s the healthiest one for their skin and also for the planet.”

Can you share with us the hero ingredients in the brand and why they are so effective? “Our key ingredient, Squalane, is derived from sustainable sugarcane, and it is at the heart of every Biossance formula.

The human body produces its own version of Squalane (Squalene), which is the skin’s own natural moisture. The amount present in your skin decreases as you age, leaving your skin dry and vulnerable. Biossance’s parent company, Amryis, Inc., was the first to develop a sustainable sugarcane-derived Squalane as an alternative. We can make as much as the world needs without negatively impacting the planet. And because Squalane is recognised by your skin, it weightlessly absorbs and boosts the active ingredients in your Biossance products so they perform even better. We also sell our Squalane back to the beauty industry, so we can move the entire beauty industry forward, encouraging other brands to use sustainable alternatives. For generations, beauty products were fortified with Squalene — but at the cost of millions of sharks, harvested for their Squalene-rich livers. Through our synthetically derived Squalane, we save approximately 2 million sharks per year, a number that continues to grow.”

What has the reaction been like in the market? “I’m really proud that we are leading in the area of clean beauty. We want to ensure

Where are the ingredients sourced? “All our ingredients are ethically and sustainably sourced; leading consciously with the highest standards for skin, planet and ingredient safety, while using science to deliver superior performance and sustainable practices across our business. We create new ingredients through science that are historically taken from nature — like squalane or sandalwood — and share back to the industry. Our sugarcane crops, a naturally renewable resource, grow in abundance in Brazil and are irrigated only by natural rainfall.”

You have advisors on board as part of Clean Beauty who offer live chats — is this open to everyone? “Yes, we currently have six advisors working for us full time. All our customers can access this via our website and receive a live, personalised and private consultation in the comfort of your own home.”

How important is it to offer a service like this? “Increasingly more important at a time where we are unable to travel or visit stores as freely as before, and consumers are spending more time shopping online. We want to ensure our customers feel like they are armed with all the information they need to find the right products that are best for them and get the performance and use them with confidence.”

What are some of the most common questions you get around clean beauty? “People often associate “synthetic” with “bad”, but it’s not that simple. Longchain parabens, for example, are synthetic ingredients that are proven to be harmful for human health. However, with new technology we’ve created an amazing category of “Clean

GREEN BEAUTY

we are constantly raising our standards so companies around us also follow. Consumers have become more aware of what they are putting in their bodies and on their skin and therefore looking for and supporting companies that are transparent about their ingredients, packaging, sourcing and creation process. They are actively arming themselves with the knowledge to make better decisions, reading labels and being mindful about their purchases. We get great feedback from our customers on how transparent we are about our sustainability efforts. We hold ourselves to a high standard and expect our customers to also.”

Synthetic” ingredients — innovative lab-created ingredients often proven to be safer, more sustainable and more effective. A few of our favorites are hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and our sugarcane-derived Squalane.”

What are your plans for the brand going forward? “Our goals and brand strategy is very mission-based. For us, it’s about evolving the beauty industry one step at a time. First by making clinical results and clean formulations synonymous and second by empowering the consumer for change. We are aiming to be zero waste by 2025, which is a lofty but achievable goal. We will do this through reimagining our packaging. All packaging will be recyclable, made from recycled materials or reusable/refillable and exploring innovative solutions and materials to lead the way forward and tackle some of the biggest culprits of waste in the beauty industry: for example, sampling!”

How can salons integrate clean beauty into their space? “Don’t feel bad about starting small and being selective, the key is to just start somewhere. Sustainability isn’t a competition, it’s a common goal.” n

DON’T FEEL BAD ABOUT STARTING SMALL AND BEING SELECTIVE, THE KEY IS TO JUST START SOMEWHERE. SUSTAINABILITY ISN’T A COMPETITION, IT’S A COMMON GOAL..

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A fresh take on

Sustainable Skincare Sustainability is a buzz word within the beauty and cosmetics industry today. Over the last few decades, industries have been trying to embrace that word into their dictionary of practices and skincare products. Simone Vescio reveals key considerations for your brand. A HUGE PART OF sustainability within skin care in the 21st century, depends greatly on the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients), that is selected in order to formulate a cosmetic product. One of the main challenges is replacing unsustainable ingredients with sustainable alternatives that not only preserve the health of our skin but also our ecosystem. Skincare companies need to create innovative, sustainable products in order to stay ahead in a highly competitive market, where more choice and ever-greater efficacy is expected by the consumer. So, when it comes to the skincare you’re using, what is deemed “sustainable”? As an industry, these are some of the key areas to consider when choosing brands to partner with: • Products should have no outer plastic wrap in order to avoid excess packaging waste • Skincare should be free from unsustainable ingredients such as fragrances, conventional emulsifiers, preservatives, parabens, silicones, amines or colours • Physical exfoliating products should avoid the use of plastic micro-beads • The ingredients within your skincare need to come from a sustainable source, such as being manufactured in aseptic laboratories while following the principles of “Corneotherapy” • The raw ingredients used to manufacture skincare should be free from pesticides and other harmful chemicals such as fragrances/perfumes, conventional emulsifiers, preservatives, parabens, silicones, amines or colours, as they serve no sustainable and physiological purpose to the

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skin’s structure and function • Palm oil should not be used in order to sustain the rainforests • Products should not be tested on animals • Sunscreen UV filters must be coral and reef safe to protect their delicate ecosystem • The use of recyclable skincare packaging is mandatory • Results-driven sustainable skincare is the collective goal we’re striving for as an industry for consumers Let’s take a closer look at a few key points and why they should be a focus when working towards sustainability within your clinic.

Physical exfoliators They are increasingly used by the consumer to remove the redundant corneocytes from the surface of the stratum corneum, while also providing a better “delivery system” pathway for active ingredients to get into the skin. However, have you considered what could potentially be formulated within your physical exfoliating products? Physical exfoliators normally contain synthetic plastic polymers, known as plastic micro-beads. The most used synthetic plastic polymers include polyethylene (PE), polylactic acid (PLA), polypropylene, polystyrene, and/ or polyethylene terephthalate. Plastic micro-beads are used in a variety of cosmetic products for the skin and body, such as facial exfoliants, body scrubs, shower gels as well as oral care products for tooth polishing. The use of plastic micro-beads in rinse-off products has recently raised many environmental issues as they contribute to the massive problem of plastic marine litter. Basically, plastic micro-beads are water insoluble and non-biodegradable. Plastic micro-beads easily make their way through sewage filtration systems because they are too small to be removed and thus they end up in rivers and oceans. Besides causing plastic accumulation in waterways, these micro-beads are being eaten by birds and fish and other marine life animals, which leads to biodiversity problems. derma aesthetics uses only bio-degradable jojoba wax beads that not only support the environment when washed down the drain, but preserve the integrity of the epidermis at all times when performing a physical exfoliation — now that’s sustainable!

A key benefit that cosmetics can provide its consumers is achieved through the presence of ultraviolet (UV) filters. The harmful effects that UV radiation has on the skin led to the development of physical and chemical filters. Developing cosmetics with sunscreen protection is a significant challenge because formulators face diverse constraints as sunscreen efficacy is dependent of the formulation, emulsifiers, solvents and emollients because these elements can change the strength, durability, wear and the range of UV absorbance. Furthermore, there is the sustainability aspects since most filters negatively affect environmental quality, while they also carry health risks. Here at derma aesthetics, we are proud to say that our sunscreens do not contain any filters that pose a threat to the environment or ourselves.

Sustainable skincare When speaking of ingredients, two concepts are important to sustainability, namely, their source and their environmental impact. “Naturally” sourced ingredients aren’t always enough for an ingredient to be considered sustainable. Synthetic, natural, natural derived, nature identical, organic and green are just some of the buzzwords today. It is important to clarify what “sustainable” means in terms of defining a cosmetic product. This term has no single universal definition, but refers to a product with positive environmental attributes, as well as being ethically, socially and economically responsible, while maintaining the integrity of the skin and its defence systems at ALL times. Before taking a look further into how a cosmetic product can become more sustainable, it is important to state some ingredient definitions. It should be noted that the definition of “natural” and “naturally derived” ingredients is not always clear, so allow us to explain… • If a compound is found in nature and is used in its original form, it is a natural product. • If extracted from a natural source and is not chemically altered, it is still considered natural. • If there is a chemical change, it is considered as a natural derivative. As far as definitions for natural and organic cosmetics, there is not, at the present time, a European standard set criteria. There are, however, guidelines that offer a framework to determine the natural, natural origin, organic and organic origin content of products.

Long-term sustainable skincare has to at ALL times: • Respect the acid mantle and microbiome as it is the first line of skin barrier defence and contributes to a healthy, sustainable skin for the

BUSINESS

Sunscreen UV filters must be coral and reef safe

individual. The symbiosis between the epidermis and microbiome will be considerably disturbed by excess hygienic measures and too much cosmetic additives, in particular preservatives, strong chelating agents such as EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) and buffered pH-formulations beyond the natural physiological pH values of the skin. • Support and maintain the formation of the multi-lamellar lipid structure (permeability barrier), as this extracellular lipid matrix fights off aggressive substances, microorganisms and slows down the evaporation of water from the epidermis. • Lastly, the stratum corneum, as it is the end-result of the keratinocytes lifecycle and contributes to around 70-80% of the cellular population of the epidermis. The keratinocyte is the leading cell of the innate immune system and must remain a healthy and sustainable cell in order to form these first three lines of skin barrier defence. When these barrier defence systems are not deemed sustainable, there can be long-term consequences on the heath of the langerhans cells and the melanocyte cells. Langerhans cells within the skin originate from the bone marrow and are dendritic, antigen-presenting immune competent cells of the skin and mucosa. Langerhans cells flood the epidermis and represent more than 25% of the skin barrier defence systems, and when put under stress due to unsustainable conditions, can migrate away from the epidermis indefinitely. What is the result? The innate immune system is compromised and the result is a poorly functioning barrier defence system that is deemed highly reactive and sensitised. Melanocytes are built-in epidermal defence systems and provide the skin with UV radiation protection against the harmful rays of the sun. Melanocytes are long-living and slow-cycling cells with no stem cell resource and once damaged, can cause major pigmentary changes within the epidermis that can reflect as hyper and/or hypo pigmentation. Melanocytes undergo melanogenesis which is the process of manufacturing melanin, and because this metabolic function induces a lot of oxidative stress, the preservation, maintenance and sustainability of the skin is imperative to the skin treatment therapist today. The best single strategy to preserve a healthy skin condition corresponding to age and the management of skin conditions, is to preserve the natural skin barrier with the help of suitable and physiological products. Thus, both protection and prevention are optimally guaranteed. Quality dermatological cosmetics, however, do not come without a price, as products free of conventional emulsifiers require complicated production technology. By using physiological ingredients that replenish the bi-layers and stabilise TEWL, will support and maintain adequate skin hydration levels for a better functioning and sustainable skin overtime. To summarise, dermaviduals is a sustainable skin care correction system that follows the principles of Corneotherapy. Corneotherapy is a progressive and remedial skin treatment methodology with its core principle being the repair and maintenance of the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis, and its neighbouring defence systems. Don’t be fooled by unsustainable, noncorneotherapeutic solutions. Unfortunately, there are companies out there that are making bold claims that do not have the chemistry to back up these claims, and deliver a corneotherapeutic solution to you and your clients skin. My question to you is: “If we are not offering a sustainable skin correction system and treatments to our clients, how do we sustain our data base and our bottom line?” dermaviduals, is for sure, reshaping the business of skin through science and technology. n Simone Vescio is the Co Founder, Head of Education and visionary at derma aesthetics. Visit: www.dermaviduals.com.au

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

SALON VIEW

SOAK

BAR+

Beauty SOAK Bar + Beauty are bringing the residents of Melbourne an opportunity to let their hair down while glamming up post-2020. With a fresh take on the traditional salon Managing Director Carlie Lansdown has created a truly unique experience for her clientele.

THE WHY “The concept behind SOAK Bar + Beauty came from the desire to create a fun and immersive experience for our clients. In this day and age, we’re all trying to juggle our time. A headto-toe service that allows our clients to catch up with friends and enjoy a cocktail while ticking off their ‘beautyto-do-list’ just makes sense.”

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THE HOW “With every offering under the sun — from facials to blow waves and mani-pedis — our staff need to be experts in their field. We are fortunate to operate with a team who are highly skilled and passionate in their craft. Our company culture is really important too. We support one another, give top-tier services and we have fun while we’re doing it.”

THE PRODUCT

“From Dr Spiller to Mr Smith haircare we look for brands aligned with our values. We want to offer the healthiest options in market while supporting Australian brands and businesses. We stock Australianowned, cruelty-free and vegan products as much as possible.”

THE ETHOS “One core concept at SOAK is fostering an inclusive and welcoming space for everyone. Creating a gender-neutral environment was important and our staff are comfortable working with all genders. For some time there has been one type of customer envisioned for the salon space. We wanted to challenge that and bring a ‘fun for everyone’ offering to the table.”

WHAT’S NEXT? “There were so many highs and lows through 2020/21. We’re glad to be back and don’t take the opportunity to work with a fantastic, and expanding team for granted. For our clients, there’s never been a more important time to celebrate the opportunity to come together. We have more party and group-booking enquiries than ever and it’s a privilege to help friends and families celebrate milestones, whether it’s baby showers, hen’s nights or birthdays. With the highest standards of health and hygiene we’ve created a safe space to relax together with peace of mind.”

TRY IT: “Our top facials for autumn winter are our Herbal Peels. They say summer bodies are made in winter — the same goes for skin! The Herbal Peels are a gentle and natural treatment, fantastic for minimising and preventing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and acne scarring.”

SOAK Bar + Beauty 657 Chapel St, South Yarra VIC 3141 03 9826 3970 www.soak.bar

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

The Value of

PROTECTION Climate change is unquestionably one of the biggest challenges that our planet faces for the future. Anita Quade chats to David Alpert about the tangible impacts of environmental change driven by human activity.

AS AN INDUSTRY there are many aspects of the beauty world — from packaging to production practices — that can contribute to the damage, and a lot of work lies ahead as beauty begins to clean up its act. Changes are being made, and there are exciting initiatives within the beauty world that are working hard to ensure that products and businesses put protecting the planet at the heart of their strategies.

to minimise their impacts on the planet. From small local salons and pioneering green brands to global beauty conglomerates such as L’Oréal, Coty and Estée Lauder, companies are pledging huge changes to ensure that the future of beauty is clean and green.

Taking the planet’s temperature

The Packaging Problem

To understand the importance of a sustainable agenda, recognising the scale of the problem we face is essential. According to climate and weather agency The Met Office, in 2021 atmospheric Carbon Dioxide (CO2) levels are set to hit a historic threshold, reaching 50% higher than pre-industrial levels as a result of human-produced CO2 emissions. This rise in CO2 levels has already contributed to the planet’s average temperature increasing by 1.18 degrees Celsius since the 19th century. Despite a drop in overall emissions due to the Covid-19 pandemic, 2020 was the warmest year on record, alongside 2016. In addition to carbon emissions, plastic pollution, landfill waste, chemical contamination, deforestation and habitat and eco-system destruction are changing our planet at speed, and the consequences for wildlife, communities and individuals will be vast. The impacts of these challenges are already being seen around the world. Between 1993 and 2019, 279bn tonnes of ice per year melted in the Arctic and Greenland, and 148bn tonnes per year melted in the Antarctic. If nothing changes, by 2030, 100 million people in developing countries could be pushed into poverty by climate change, and ecological destruction will be irreversible.

One particular focus for beauty is packaging and plastic. The global beauty industry generates 120 billion units of packaging each year, and packaging forms 70% of all waste the industry produces, according to a report from the British Beauty Council. In one year alone, it is thought that up to 14 million tonnes of plastic ends up in the oceans globally — the equivalent of one garbage truck per minute. Much of what is discarded is plastic packaging. Re-using and recycling seems like an obvious solution, but the mixed materials in beauty packaging can be complicated to recycle. Two thirds of people are confused about what cosmetics products can be recycled, and in one survey over 56% of people said they don’t recycle bathroom products because of the inconvenience. As a result, packaging is thrown away, ending up in landfills and dumps or making its way into waterways. In the EU, plastic packaging accounts for 85% of marine litter. If the use of plastic continues to increase, by 2050 the volume of plastic in our oceans will be greater than the volume of fish. In addition to plastic packaging, essential tools of the trade mean professional beauty can be a wasteful business. From cotton pads and singleuse brushes to Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) for Covid-19 safety measures — singleuse, disposable items are commonplace in the salon environment. As a result, in the UK alone

What does this have to do with the beauty industry? Emissions, plastic waste and chemical pollution can all be linked to the beauty industry in various ways. Unethically produced ingredients can exploit humans and nature in their production, and can decimate wildlife habitats. Synthetic chemicals, such as oxybenzone and octinoxate in sunscreen, are toxic to wildlife and eco-systems and can contribute to events such as coral bleaching. Scented products such as hairspray, perfume and deodorant, have recently been found to be as polluting as vehicle emissions, added to this manufacturing facilities, transporting ingredients and air freight of products emits vast quantities of CO2. For beauty, these challenges are just the tip of the iceberg. Several forward-looking beauty brands are taking action, acting decisively

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BEAUTY TOOLS AND PACKAGING TAKES DECADES, IF NOT CENTURIES TO DECOMPOSE: ONE DISCARDED POT OF MOISTURISER COULD TAKE 1,000 YEARS TO DEGRADE. Attitudes towards recycling and reusing items are changing: 88% of consumers want brands to do more to enable recycling of their products, and one report found that that 90% of beauty consumers want clearer information on how to recycle empty products. For the London-based skin supplement brand Advanced Nutrition Programme™, perfecting eco-friendly, sustainable packaging has been a longstanding priority. Founder David Alpert has driven the business with eco-friendly practices in mind, and since 2017 all Advanced Nutrition Programme packaging has been fully recycled and recyclable. Across the business, eco-friendly, vegetable-based ink is used and all paper is sourced from FSC (Forestry Stewardship Council) certified forests — meaning trees are grown and replanted in a way that protects the environment. “If we open our eyes to what’s going on around us, you cannot help but notice the massive impact we’re having on the environment around us,” says Alpert. He adds that to help in the environmental challenges the planet faces, individuals and businesses must take

BUSINESS

an estimated 1.3 million beauty tools are sent to landfill each month, and the global impact will be exponentially higher. The volume of waste sent to landfill is already causing serious environmental issues, and without action, the situation will only become worse. Beauty tools and packaging takes decades, if not centuries to decompose: one discarded pot of moisturiser could take 1,000 years to degrade. What does break-down often leaches chemicals and toxins as they decay. Toxic runoff from landfill sites contaminates waterways and damages eco-systems and methane gas produced during decomposition adds to the greenhouse effect. Additionally, microplastics from waste, which are partially produced when plastics break down, contaminate the food chain and have been proven to end up within our bodies. In December 2020, researchers even detected microplastics in the placentas of pregnant women.

decisive action, to ensure sustainability is at the top of the agenda for all. “Unless we create a mass movement behind making sustainable changes then it is not going to happen,” he explains. Sustainability is a core focus for Alpert and the Advanced Nutrition Programme business as a whole. The brand has numerous initiatives in place which are geared to continually improve the impact products and actions have on the planet. For example, the business has switched from air freight to sea freight, saving 84% of carbon emissions. At the head office in London, a programme is underway to switch all company vehicles to electric, and the brand recently moved its warehouse to a sustainable premises, with solar panels on the roof helping to power operations.

Eco-Ingredients The vast majority of beauty products come with substantial ingredients lists, with each substance sourced by and derived from a vast array of suppliers. Navigating the origins of each component is essential to ensure that products and ingredients are sourced in responsible ways that protect the environment and offer ethical, positive employment and livelihoods to local communities. Traceability is a challenge to achieve due to the immense complexity of most supply chains, but it is something that Alpert has made a priority at the Advanced Nutrition Programme, which has full traceability of ingredients in all supplements. The brand focuses on working exclusively with suppliers matching its rigorous high ethical and sustainable criteria, and where necessary shifting suppliers to uphold the required standards. For example, the fish oils used in Skin Omegas + are EPAX assured. This means each batch can be traced to the individual fishing boat, which is certified to use sustainable fishing practices. In addition, the vitamin C that the company uses in products such as the skin supplement Skin Vit C, has the lowest carbon footprint of any available on the market. The ingredient is produced in Scotland by the only vitamin C supplier in Europe, meaning the company saves vast quantities of CO2 by avoiding transcontinental ingredients shipping. The Scottish facility is relatively close to the brand’s own supplement production base in England. Shipping aside, using this supplier results in 59% lower greenhouse gas emissions compared to equivalents. Using 1,000 tonnes of this vitamin C saves 14,000 tonnes of CO2. When it comes to sustainability, the conversation is always evolving, and there is always more that can be done — the journey to sustainability is one without an end. Beauty brands and professionals must incorporate this into their strategies for any green changes to make a truly meaningful impact. Advanced Nutrition Programme incorporate this ethos through the consistent monitoring of potential sustainable enhancements that can be made to products and practices. Products and ingredients evolve to incorporate the most sustainable options. In 2020, Skin Vit A+ was reformulated to feature clean label capsule shells and natural rice flour excipients.

Where to next? As the need for sustainable change becomes ever more pressing and the consequences ever more noticeable, the beauty industry can play an important role in driving change. From businesses investing in sustainable innovations, to brands encouraging sustainable mindsets in their consumers, promoting considered, sustainable purchasing and facilitating recycling and eco-friendly practices where possible. Looking ahead, the future for beauty must be greener, and with the foundations already being placed by businesses and individuals, change is possible if progress and passion continue at speed. David Alpert is the Co- Founder of Advanced Nutrition Programme. www.margifox.com.au

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

Ask the

skinfluencers Sustainability has long been considered the remit of natural brands – but cosmeceutical companies are making gains in the space while providing cutting-edge solutions to their customers. But what are the challenges for brands and businesses as they shrink their environmental footprint while meeting the needs of their customers?

Daniel Isaacs,

DIRECTOR OF RESEARCH AT MEDIK8 “IN 2018 WE set the goal of becoming ‘Zero Waste by 2023* The asterisk is important as we are a science-backed brand, and transparency is our first priority. There will be some exceptions for genuine functional reasons, but these will all be listed in our ‘Sustainability Roadmap,’ which will be available this year. We have been set back around six months due to COVID but have made significant progress, and we were thrilled to publish our roadmap this year. We have wanted to make changes to certain packaging for some time, but speaking frankly had to wait for the consumer to be ready. Recent changes to our professional backbar line-up have been extensive. However, we will never compromise product efficacy. We will work in partnership with packaging engineers and recycling service providers to ensure we reach our goals without compromising the brand’s core promise of “results and experience.” We have so many wins from carbon offset to 100% renewable energy. Some more obscure improvements have been using ‘slow boats’ in our supply chain. This strategy has massively reduced our CO2 output - however, it naturally puts a strain on inventory management. For visible improvements, we are delighted that our Professional Backbar products are 100% recycled or recyclable. We are looking forward to a complete roadmap being published this year, which will include details of what we have

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achieved so far. We recently launched our first reusable pack in the global hit Press & Glow exfoliating toner. Fans of Medik8 know we are obsessed with formula stability, which means we use airless packaging for functional reasons. This challenge exists for all brands who use active, efficacious ingredients and need their formulas to stay potent and fresh. But we are working with packaging suppliers on future solutions. A key differentiator for the Medik8 brand has been addressing a needless dichotomy between ‘results’ and ‘experience’. Experience is not just about texture and scent, it is about the values of the brand, their policies around susainability, animal welfare and fighting injustice. For the most part, clinical brands can and should be as sustainable as ‘natural’ brands. The only exception is where a clinical brand is ‘forced’ to use a barrier and airless packaging to ensure the active ingredients are kept stable. But so much of the waste generated by cosmetic brands falls outside of packaging - this is where we can make up for challenges such as the non-availability of recyclable airless packaging with reduced water waste and decreased CO2 emissions. In 2021 we look forward to the launch of our sustainability roadmap, where we will detail what we have achieved so far and what we are committing to by 2023. We intend to be the “World’s Most Sustainable Professional-Led Brand.” n

SKINFLUENCER

Stefanie Milla

DERMALIST FOUNDER “DERMALIST LAUNCHED TO fill a gap in the market for sustainable, “clean,” and cosmeceutical grade skincare. As a dermal specialist passionate about skin and societal wellbeing, I was looking for skincare that delivered powerful results while being sustainable, ethical, and free from common ingredients that cause inflammation. Unfortunately, there was nothing available on the market at that time so I set out to create a range with these attributes at its core. That said, we tend to shy away from the “Clean Beauty” label, we don’t like to imply that other brands are ‘dirty’. We prefer the term ‘conscious beauty’ - it describes our approach, which is making every decision about our products and company in good faith for our customers, communities, and the world around us. Sustainability was a big driver when we created our brand and has remained a constant guiding principle as we’ve grown. With every product we develop, we consider four key areas: 1. Wellbeing: What are the highest quality and safest ingredients we can use in the product to deliver exceptional results while taking care of our customer’s holistic health? 2. Supply chain: Are the products, ingredients, and packaging sourced and manufactured in an ethical way throughout our suppliers’ supply chain? 3. Environmental impact: How can we protect the integrity of our formulas, and deliver aesthetically beautiful, 100% recyclable packaging to our customers? 4. Manufacturing: How can we work with our manufacturer to avoid wasted resources through the production process? We recognise we aren’t perfect - sustainability is a continued focus throughout the business. We have achieved 90% recyclable packaging, with the other 10% refillable, this has been particularly difficult to achieve when using airless pump packaging so it’s something we’re really proud of.

Offering refills for our serums gives customers the option to keep their outer product and replace the inner cartridge at a reduced price to cut back on packaging waste. We have encouraged our suppliers to adopt ecologically friendly business practices, by insisting on sustainability at every touchpoint. We’ve made them take a closer look at their business models and where their inputs are sourced - it’s alarming how many suppliers can’t answer this! Pure vegan formulations have been our greatest challenge. We’ve had to find suitable alternatives to animal-derived skincare ingredients like collagen, milk-based Lactic Acid and honey while delivering the same or better results. Additionally, we’ve experienced issues with ingredients that turn out to contain trace amounts of palm oil or other items on our exclusion list. It is immensely frustrating when we discover through a supply chain audit that they have not been disclosed. It sets back our manufacturing timeframes as we have to search for a new supplier with sustainable and transparent practices. Our formulations also present a challenge in terms of profitmargin. Many of the ingredients we avoid for either ethical or health-related reasons are used as “commercially viable” fillers in skincare products. Not using these ingredients raises our production cost - we believe wearing the ‘clean tax’ is worth it, but it can be difficult as a young brand. In terms of growth areas, we are working towards carbon neutrality with streamlined packaging, logistics and fulfillment processes. With Dermalist, we hope we can challenge the perception that specialist skincare is exempt from sustainability. We have been delighted to see many cosmeceutical brands becoming more aware of their environmental impact in the last twelve months. The sooner we stop boxing brands into “active” or “clean”, the sooner sustainable, ethical and efficacious cosmeceuticals will become the preferred category for consumers. We can’t wait for that day!” n

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

BEAUTY

BEAUTY BLACK BOOK Ruby Feneley talks to Emma Lewisham, founder of Emma Lewisham skincare about her sustainability initiatives and what’s next for the brand.

he last 12 months have been a wild ride for Emma Lewisham and her namesake brand. From small beginnings in New Zealand, they have experienced a stratospheric rise in popularity. Blending clinically proven results, lust-worthy packaging, ethically sourced, natural ingredients, and ground-breaking sustainability practices, Emma Lewisham has become beloved by beauty editors and It-girls alike. Ruby Feneley spoke to Emma Lewisham, the woman behind it all, about growing a small brand with a big vision, taking on waste in the beauty industry, and why she’s just getting started.

sent to landfills and our oceans every year. I learnt that in the beauty industry, packaging is the single most significant contributor to carbon emissions. Somewhere along the way, this has become an acceptable norm. I decided to be the change I wanted to see in beauty. I set myself the challenge of redefining these standards and proving to the industry as a whole that it’s possible to create natural skincare with scientifically validated results and a business that sets new standards of sustainability every step of the way. Today, Emma Lewisham products proudly rival the most recognised luxury brands globally for efficacy while being global leaders in the ‘circular design’ beauty model.”

How it started

The big issue

“I don’t come from a beauty background; before Emma Lewisham skincare, I spent eight years at a multinational Japanese technology company working on global products and services. As part of my role, I was in charge of improving sustainability. My work involved a lot of problem-solving - a lot of overcoming seemingly impossible hurdles and challenging the ‘status quo.’ That mindset has served me well starting my own brand, Emma Lewisham. I’ve always loved beauty and experimenting with new products, and I was interested in the science and technology that went into creating them. My journey in the beauty industry truly started when I learnt a product I had been using for hyperpigmentation contained a known carcinogen. I was used to investing in high-performing luxurious skincare - I went looking in skin clinics and beauty retailers for a natural, efficacious alternative. I imagined the “La Mer” of natural skincare - but I found it didn’t exist. During this research period, I discovered how I, as a beauty lover, was unwittingly contributing to environmental waste and many of the issues we are facing today. There is a ‘take-makedispose model of beauty that sees billions of units of packaging

“There is a problem with the notion of “sustaining” in the beauty industry. The planetary crisis we are facing needs to be “reversed” rather than “sustained.” That is why at Emma Lewisham we are going beyond carbon-neutrality. We are committed to a carbonnegative path. Transparency is crucial. We make a considerable effort to take our customers on our sustainability journey - sharing our achievements and challenges with them - sometimes this means sharing where we have not found ideal solutions. For me, the most critical issue is packaging. The global cosmetics industry produces 120 billion units of packaging every year, and a massive amount of this goes into landfills. That is why there is urgency in our business to move towards 100% circular design with refillable solutions, as quickly as possible. I believe refillable packaging is the best option for the industry - recyclables can only go so far. Few beauty products are accepted by curbside recycling programs. The design elements that make beauty products usable and marketable, like push pumps and coloured plastic, make them difficult to recycle. It’s important consumers understand that just because packaging states it is recyclable doesn’t mean it will be recycled. It is

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BEAUTY industry production standards from the “take-make-dispose’’ model to a circular one. This means designing for continued use rather than disposal. In 2020, we launched the Emma Lewisham Beauty Circle recycling program. The Beauty Circle accepts not only Emma Lewisham branded packaging waste but other skincare brands in New Zealand. We have also launched the Emma Lewisham Beauty Circle Refill Program in Australia and New Zealand - I firmly believe that refills and a circular beauty model are the ultimate solutions to our industry’s waste problem.”

The recipe for efficacy

simply more economically viable to send complex beauty packaging straight to landfill rather than invest resources in converting it. As a business, using refillable packaging is complicated. There are few models out there, and most are patented by the brands that use them. This means smaller brands will pay a high cost to create their own bespoke moulds - this is a cost we have undertaken to bring out customers sustainable, circular solutions.”

Supply and design “We are currently mapping our products’ carbon footprint from our first year in business and will publish this for our customers. We hold ourselves accountable for our emissions and have a clear base-line benchmark. From the start, we have looked to reduce our impact by incorporating natural and recycled materials. Next, we will reduce waste by becoming 100% circular in our products’ design, using more recycled material, and using ingredients sourced from regenerative farms. Finally, we will offset the small amount left to make Emma Lewisham products, not just carbon neutral but carbon negative. We’ve made the conscious choice to have traceability through our supply chain, ensuring we remain values-aligned from start to finish. We take responsibility for reviewing each ingredient that goes into Emma Lewisham products. This can be quite a granular process. For instance, while we don’t test our finished product on animals, we also have to ensure that none of the raw ingredients from our suppliers have been tested on animals. This requires extensive documentation, but we are proud to provide certification for each ingredient on our website. Mainstream agricultural practices also have devastating impacts on the environment. We are currently working with two regenerative farms in Switzerland and have plans to source all of our ingredients from sustainable agricultural ventures in the future. As I’ve said, packaging is a critical area where we have made conscious sustainability choices. Our mission is to shift

“Our ingredients are results-driven and backed by science. There have been so many unique innovations in the natural ingredients industry. It is now possible to find performancedriven actives that allow us to deliver results while sticking to our 100% natural commitment. Our hero ingredients include Saccharide Isomerate, a hydration hero that can lock in moisture for 72-hours. We also use powerful plant-stem cells, ceramides, collagen peptides, and stem cells to nourish the skin. We collaborate with global R&D teams and laboratories that are at the forefront of identifying cutting-edge natural ingredients. We commissioned independent laboratories to perform in vivo and in vitro scientific testing, comparing our products to the most recognized traditional luxury products on the market. We were able to prove our natural products rival the most recognized and premium brands in the world. We are pleased to say that our cult Skin Reset serum is scientifically proven to outperform the most luxurious brightening and Vitamin C products in the market for creating a bright, even complexion.”

Global goals “One of the most significant impacts we can make as a brand is proving to the beauty industry that natural ingredients and sustainable practices can co-exist with high performance and luxury. To do this, we need to provide a compelling alternative to our customers; we need to deliver results and gorgeous, functional packaging that rivals any prestige brand. This does require tenacity to pull off - we’ve had to work through every roadblock along the way, and we’ve needed to not only shift our mindset but challenge our suppliers to shift their thinking and come up with new solutions. There have been many iterations of each product to get our formulas “just right” and deliver on the luxury and efficacy for our customers while meeting our environmental goals as a business. Today’s consumers are discerning and clued up when it comes to sustainability. They are willing to challenge brands on the issues that matter to them and hold them to account if need be. The big picture is very simple. We cannot shift the laws of the universe or the natural systems that govern life on earth. We have to learn to live in harmony, and we can learn a lot from nature. Every natural system on earth is circular so, to be truly sustainable, a business needs to mirror this. We need to stop seeing “waste” and start seeing “resources” to achieve a circular beauty system.” n

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

SALON PROFILE

A City OASIS Founded by journalist SarahBryden Brown, American Fashion Editor Larissa Thomson and Australian screen-queen Naomi Watts ONDA Beauty has become the ultimate prestige destination for lovers of natural beauty. Ruby Feneley experiences the benefits of ONDA’s natural beauty ethos while exploring their holistic approach to beauty and business.

NDA Beauty is a “destination” salon with locations in Sydney and New York bringing mindful, clean beauty to each city’s busy denizens indeed, New York is so

frantic, it needed two. Like many Sydneysiders, I spend my weeks rushing between appointments and juggling obligations and I sometimes find amongst all the multi-tasking, I’ve forgotten how to unwind. Slowing down becomes much, much easier as I enter the ONDA treatment room, and slip into a facial bed more comfortable than my actual bed. I have already provided a self-assessment of my skin online - I lean dry, and my primary concerns are dehydration, fine lines, sun-damage and dark circles. Kim prescribes the ONDA Signature Facial, which blends the best in natural skincare, from Sodashi Professional Products to Marie Veronique, with an impressive array of technology and tools. For example, a traditional steam is accompanied by the BT-Micro, a device that provides ultrasonic exfoliation, prepping the skin for an extraction sans telltale red welts. The tech doesn’t end there,

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the Signature Facial includes OMNILUX light therapy and oxygen skin treatments. This blend is key to ONDA’s offering. Kim notes: “Being able to draw on all these resources is the most important component of an ONDA treatment - it’s what creates a category redefining treatment experience.” Kim’s preference is to finish each facial with a traditional Gua Sha massage - “Our facials have a strong focus on lymphatic drainage. Gua Sha is my favourite technique as it removes excess muscle tension, sculpts the face and de-puffs the eye area while being deeply relaxing.” Kim is also passionate about the benefits of natural skincare for body and mind. She says,“Natural products allow the skin to breath and heal without disrupting the endocrine system.” She notes that post lockdown clients came back to the salon with heightened sensitivity and irritation - working with a holistic range of products enabled her to sooth skin sensitivities and frayed nerves. No moment during the ONDA experience is wasted - between light therapy and deep cleansing masks, arms, hands, legs, scalp, and feet are massaged. I find that when left unattended under a light treatment my mind drifts towards my to-do list. Kim’s continued attention helps me stay in the moment, a core part of the holistic ONDA experience that focuses on details, from the luxurious weighted blanket, to the carafe of Beauty Chef Glow Tonic by the bed.

Indeed, skin-healing products are part of what drew one of Australia’s most famous exports to the business. Naomi Watts, co-founder of ONDA says the ONDA relationship started with skin. She says, “For someone with sensitive skin, the film industry is a perpetual cycle of applying and removing makeup - eventually, my skin had had enough. I started integrating clean beauty products into my regimen at the recommendation of Larissa (ONDA co-founder) - I immediately saw a change. My skin was less irritated and felt healthier, and I didn’t see a drop in results. I became a total convert.” Watt’s wanted to share her discovery with Australians. She says, “It was important to me to offer a clean beauty destination in Australia - where we not only support local brands but introduce brands otherwise unavailable in the market. Australia is a huge part of who I am, so it’s fitting that ONDA should share in that.” The business model is driven by a commitment to making clean and sustainable beauty accessible. The growth of the luxury beauty market has coincided with increased global concern for the environment and subsequent consumer interest in sustainability. To ONDA CEO Jane Hong, the benefits of “going green” are plentiful. Hong notes that along with the ethical rewards of a green business, investment capital is being driven towards sustainable operations as younger consumers enter the luxury market. She says “We have seen this as Gen Z reaches adolescence - they have grown up acutely aware that the resources supporting their lifestyles will be depleted in the near

THE AUSTRALIAN LANDSCAPE AND CULTURE LENDS ITSELF TO CLEAN LIVING, SO IT’S ONLY NATURAL THAT AUSSIES HAVE PLAYED A SIGNIFICANT ROLE IN THE GROWTH OF CLEAN BEAUTY - WE’VE FOUND OUR RELATIONSHIP WITH THE AUSTRALIAN MARKET A VERY SYMBIOTIC ONE. interviews, explore Naomi Watts’ curated picks and shop ONDA’s suite of exclusive brands. For Hong, the decision to invest online was natural. “ONDA beauty looks towards a holistic experience” she says, “today that means an omnichannel approach. We know that our in-store experience is unique enough to be in a league of its own - this affords us the credibility and authority to make product recommendations online as well as in-store.” Hong concedes that there will always be a required balance between physical and digital - “Luxury will always require a tactile experience - we find that a table stake in our prestige offering.” However, customers now live in an increasingly digital world and for Hong connecting with them online “is essential to meaningful growth of the business - what’s more, we can’t be at every location in the world. That shouldn’t be prohibitive to building relationships with customers searching for clean beauty in the luxury space.” Following my treatment, I rehydrate with a glass of Beauty Chef Glow tonic. While I’m reluctant to leave and get back to a busy day, my sense of relaxation accompanies me for the rest of the weekend - along with a glowing complexion. I feel, like I’ve hit a reset button on my mental state. Kim says this is just how she wants her clients to feel leaving the salon. - “Visiting ONDA is a whole-body experience. You should be floating on a cloud, ready for whatever the week ahead has in store.” I couldn’t have described the ONDA experience better myself. n

SALON PROFILE

future. They want to invest in services and businesses that align with their values and interests.” Jane describes ONDAs mission as helping customers navigate the clean beauty market. She says, “There are so many brands that customers find themselves suffering from the paradox of choice - here, we do the heavy lifting to make the process fun, focused on discovery and meaningful experiences.” In terms of the product selection, Hong says that their philosophy on clean beauty is “ever-evolving - like the category itself.” What remains consistent is a “laser focus” on innovation, ingredients, and inclusivity. “We’re focused on selection of the finest ingredients for our customers and catering to different skin types at every age. We are conscious of offering different price points to ensure the experience is accessible. Inclusivity is something we’re committed to and informs the products we select - they not only need to be clean and effective but versatile enough to suit a range of ages, skin types, and demographics.” Like Watts, Jane Hong sees a natural fit between Australia and the clean beauty space, commenting that the international launch of well known Australian brands like Grown Alchemist has seen the Australian market come into its own in the last decade. Hong explains “The Australian landscape and culture lends itself to clean living, so it’s only natural that Aussies have played a significant role in the growth of clean beauty - we’ve found our relationship with the Australian market a very symbiotic one. Another element of ONDA Beauty that makes it unique is its investment in an online presence with a robust e-commerce component. The site is a destination rather than a booking platform. Clients can browse celebrity

TREND REPORT FW21 has hit the international catwalks and clients will want to try the latest trends. In this trend report Pro-MUA Katie Moore provides tips on how to try the hottest trends and make these looks work off-runway.

@KATIEMOOREMAKEUPARTIST

Noir now

From velvet textures at Alice + Olivia to rock n’ roll khol at Isabel Marant, Dior and Chanel it’s safe to say – black is back! MUA tip: Seek out a soft and blendable kohl to achieve this lived in look. Work the liner into the upper lash line whilst holding the pencil horizontally for a streamlined application and follow with a short dense blending brush to create your shape. Once satisfied, follow with a black shadow to ensure longevity. Hot tip- Clean up any fall out under the eyes with eye q-tip dipped in eye primer - then sweep some foundation under the eye are to avoid panda eyes! Try these products: Gorgeous Cosmetics Eye Pencil in Black Jack, Gorgeous Cosmetics Colour Pro eye shadow in DMC Black, Gorgeous Cosmetics, 03 8585 3702, Ardell, Faux Mink Wispies, Ardell 800621-9585

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RUNWAY TRENDS

Last days of disco

Models positively glistened on the runway at Savage x Fenty, Zero + Maria Cornejo, Lutz Huelle and LBV. Glossy, translucent skin and lips and lids doused in plenty of sparkle were the order of the day – a dazzling compliment to a well-cared for complexion. MUA tip: With a structured and colourful look like this a fresh complexion will keep things modern - never skimp on skin prep! Use a gentle chemical exfoliant, then tone and massage an emollient moisturiser or oil into the client’s skin to circulate natural blood flow. Don’t be afraid to use your fingers when applying a lightweight, luminous foundation - the heat from your hands will melt the product into the skin. Only apply concealer to areas required, then switch your powder brush for a smaller eye shadow brush - applying a mattifying powder only where needed around the nose, centre of chin and brows. Try these products: Jane Iredale Liquid Minerals foundation, Jane Iredale Circle Delete Concealer, Margifox Distributors, 1300850008, Curtis Collection Invisible Blotting Powder, Curtis Collection Flat Blending Eye Brush, Curtis Collection, 03 9421 5577

Winter safari

Coco Chanel popularised the year-round tan in the 1920s and Jeremy Scott turned up the heat at Moschino, taking his models on safari. Inspired by 1939 film “The Women” the brief was retro, with flushed skin that read “inadvertently” bronzed and diffused terracotta tones. MUA tip: Lipsticks are perfect for this tawny, lived in look as they can be applied to lips and cheeks. Dab product on the centre of the lips, then blur out for a soft and worn in effect. What’s left on your fingers will be the perfect amount to work into the cheeks. Depending on your client’s face shape, blend colour along the contour line or softly tap colour across the cheeks and nose for a fresh, sun-kissed look. Try these products: Ere Perez Olive Oil Lipstick in Festival, Ere Perez Bronzer in Tulum, Ere Perez, (612) 9130 3582

Nailing it

At Moschino nail technician Yoko Sakakura used OPI to create fire engine red, stiletto tips, tying together the 1930s glamour that saturated the collection. To achieve this look a glossy top coat is essential – Sakakura opted for OPI “Emmy have you seen Oscar?” with OPI Top Coat for a brilliant finish. TRY THESE PRODUCTS: OPI Natural Base Coat, OPI “Emmy, have you seen Oscar?” OPI Top Coat, OPI Professional Australia (1800) 358 999

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

WELLNESS

foundations

the

Come winter we’re well and truly into the rhythm of the year – party season has wound down and the hurly burly of return to office (or Zoom) has passed. Now is the time to take stock and align body and mind.

PHOTO: @KATIEMOOREMAKEUPARTIST

Photography: Brandee Meier Styling and concept: Ruby Feneley Production Assistant: Nicola Maglione

Joso, Glowso Supplements, Joso 1800 975 017 Honne, Super Booster Protein Supplement, Honne hello@honne-wellness.com Waterlilly, Bath and Body Oil in Desire, Waterlilly 07 3390 3988 La Mav, Kansa Wand, La Mav 1300 052 628 Hydraflore, Serum Fermete Anti-Vergetures Firming Serum and Stretch Marks, Schmelzkopf Cosmetics, 0433122201

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GLOWSANA | FOR PROTECTED SKIN Skin protecting serum rich in antioxidants with powerful plant extracts known to slow down aging of the skin while providing protection from free radical damage. Protects, improves firmness and elasticity of the skin.

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GLOWCLARA | FOR CLEAR SKIN Calming and soothing serum designed to reduce redness and irritation. Contains peptides to diminish blemishes and redness. Added plant extracts that contain antioxidant properties known to boost skin’s repair system.

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TALKING BEAUTY THE FAST THREE:

I TRY WHAT THEY’RE SEARCHING 1. Brow lamination

Hi!

You may have noticed something different about this Talking Beauty, I’m Ruby Feneley and I’ll be minding Hannah Gay’s desk while she is on maternity leave. In working on this issue I have been so encouraged by the sustainability developments in our industry. While there are many challenges to overcome, there has also never been more commitment from brands and businesses, or demand from consumers. I hope you’ve found them as inspiring as I have! Now, for a change of pace I’m going to take you through the top trends I’ve had my eye on this month.

Ruby x

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Searches for brow lamination rose in 2020 - accompanied by “at home brow lamination” and “soap brows” as consumers attempted the look during lockdown. Now, with salons open, beauty lovers are flocking to try to trend. As someone who suffers from unruly brows that can leave me looking like John Howard on a bad day, I was interested. Hayley, National Educator at Refectocil was kind enough to walk me through the process. Lamination involves applying a solution that breaks down disulfide in the brows, allowing for a redirection of the hair follicle, a second treatment locks the shape in place. All-in-all, the lamination takes 10 minutes, custom tint included. The upshot: Brow lamination is a fast, pain-free alternative to treatments like microblading and delivers addictive results. My brows were more subtle than the dramatic looks I’d seen on Instagram. Istead, the treatment gave my features an instant lift leaving my selfies more Queen’s Gambit than ‘90s PM.

2. Hyperpigmentation: A different approach

Searches for hyperpigmentation treatments peak in the cooler months as the UV exposure sown in summer is reaped in winter. This month I tried one serum taking a different approach to pigmentation treatment, benching my evening retinol for Calecim’s Professional Pigment Solution. The serum contains many ingredients you’d expect: Niacinamide, alpha-arbutin, glutathione, and butyl-resorcinol, along with malic and lactic acid. The brand has combined these stalwarts with Calecim’s patented Cord Lining Conditioned Media. The ingredient restores cell turnover and increases skin density with proteins, growth factors and cytokines. The other unique ingredient is “Aa-(Clear)2”, derived from the hardy perennial plant Aruseama Amuresne, evocatively referred to as “the Cobra Lily’’. It’s been used in Chinese medeicine for centuries on account of its wound-healing properties. When applied to the epidermis it has similarly protective benefits, accelerating dermal “autophagy” — the process by which the skin rids itself of damaged tissue. The upshot: Ingredients traditionally used for pigmentation can produce counterproductive redness. For individuals with fragile skin, skin-supportive ingredients will enable consistent use and better results.

3. Mineral makeup

Like pigmentation, searches for mineral makeup rise in winter as harsh conditions increase skin sensitivity. The mineral makeup category is projected to increase its market share by 4.16% by 2026, instep with consumer interest in health. To understand what the switch means in practice, I swapped my usual cosmetic regimen for Jane Iredale and the Curtis Collection. I discovered there is now far greater range in the mineral category — from high-performing complexion products to lipsticks and eyeshadows that pack a punch. The second takeaway was comfort. Usually, my face feels taught after a full day of makeup, and the first thing I do when I walk in the door is slough it off. Wearing Jane Iredale’s High Coverage CC Balm I didn’t remember this step until 9pm. This reminded me of Sally Axford’s comments in this issue (page 54) that natural formulations work in synergy with the skin, wearing and working better as the day goes on. The upshot: Advice to clients post peel or injection is usually to keep a bare face. In practice, your clients are unlikely to go foundation free post-treatment, especially if there are tell-tale signs of a filler touch-up. The best course of action is to educate clients on the benefits of mineral products and the range now available to ensure they get the most out of their procedures. n

RefectoCil is the #1 lash and brow styling brand worldwide and has been the market leader for over 70 years. 2021 has been our biggest and most exciting year yet. Visit us at Beauty Expo Australia to experience our latest innovations including the highly anticipated Dual Purpose Lash Lift/Brow Lamination Kit as well as the elegant new range of brow styling products. Our National Educator, along with the RefectoCil Australia team invites you to join us for live demonstrations and access to exclusive show specials. Keep updated with the offers by following @refectocilaustralia on Instagram.

PROUDLY SPONSORING

Love

A LITTLE LUXE

When it comes to luxury surrounds, beauty entrepreneur Rachel Diaz opted to employ the help of an interior designer to get the look she wanted for her new salon LoveBeauty Skin in Perth. She reveals her top tips for creating a stunning space. By Anita Quade

Rachel tell us a little about your beauty background?

“My entire professional background has been within the beauty industry to date, with the exception of 18 months spent at University studying a diploma of nursing, which I later deferred, returning back to the industry. I completed my diploma of beauty therapy with international qualifications back in 2008 at 18 years old. I had my first paid job in an Ella Bache salon before the completion of my second semester of beauty college. After graduating I started a fulltime role in a day spa which also offered beauty and facial services. This is where I discovered my infatuation with the skin, alongside my obsession with skin care products. Over the years I have worked in a number of beauty salons, days spas and skin clinics across Perth before having the courage and appropriate knowledge to venture out on my own.”

What is it you love most about the industry? “My drive and passion has always remained the same: treating and transforming skin conditions for our beautiful clients!”

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INTERIORS

You recently opened your LoveBeauty Skin salon in Perth. Tell us about the interior inspiration for the salon? “We have been in our new premises for nearly three months now and it has been wonderful having so much space for our clients and team. We worked closely with State 28 Interiors for our design concept, putting a new spin on our old branding. I felt it was time to mature our look so we changed up the pastel pink colour scheme to more of a dusty blush pink and added simplistic finishings to reduce clutter. We drew our ideas from Pinterest interiors along with our designer’s recommendations, working with the layout of the building and keeping everything streamlined throughout the clinic.”

How did you choose the location? “We wanted to find the perfect spot that was central to our clients coming from all areas of Perth, close to the freeway with fantastic exposure and private parking so our clients would be able to arrive to their appointments and park with ease. These were our non-negotiables for the new clinic and we weren’t ready to settle for less.”

How would you sum up the salon vibe? “Friendly and inviting meets a high-end-yet-homely feel. Classy but still comfortable! A place that makes you never want to leave, counting down the days until your next appointment.”

What type of considerations do you have to think of when looking at the interiors? “You have to take into account the functionality of the space, the room locations and keeping the design concept flowing so that it doesn’t become confusing or contradictory. Working with a designer is 100% worth it; they bring ideas to the table that elevated my style and they have the experience to know what will work best, which can be quite confusing when you are fitting out such a large space.”

How did you choose the furnishings? “I had my eye on the Celine teddy bear sofas from Empire Homewares and the huggy chairs from Sarah Ellison as the feature pieces of our skin and consult lounges. I’m so glad we chose them as they are like sitting on an actual cloud and create an experience. We minimised clutter by incorporating grand built in shelving that matches our make-up and skin analysis stations and the buffet in our waiting area. I wanted to create something different and unique to us so we went with curves to match the natural arches of the building and it looks phenomenal.”

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

INTERIORS

What is your favourite piece in the salon? “This is hard answer because I’m so in love with it all, but I adore the entire design of our skin lounge. It’s more than just a sitting area, the atmosphere has a level of elegance and makes you feel right at home!”

Interiors can be expensive — is there a way salon owners can also get the luxury look on a budget? “Engaging with an interior designer early on helps! Knowing what your priorities are in terms of budget... must haves versus wish list! Utilising platforms like Facebook Marketplace and Gumtree! That’s how we found our beautiful stone coffee table.”

With Winter just around the corner are there any easy interior hacks that owners can employ to update their look effortlessly? “Styling with items that are easily interchangeable based on season (i.e. cushions, rugs, florals and artwork) would be a great way to start!”

How often should salon owners refresh their look? “If you opt for a timeless design then you won’t need to constantly be keeping up with the trend of the year or even of the month, because it’s irrelevant. Your branding and style will be clear and also more cost effective!”

How did you go about setting the ambience in the treatment rooms? “We worked with textures that complimented our holistic treatment style. Client relaxation was a priority and reflective in the earthy tones, the timber shelving, ceramic tiles, stone bench tops and bamboo bed linens. The strip lighting built into our cabinetry really sets the ambience and highlights all of these features.”

How long did it take to complete the look? “The planning took a total of two to three months (as this was the most crucial part of the process), and the construction with Veritruss PTY LTD was five weeks in total, as we were on a tight schedule.”

Any other interior tips for salon owners? “Stay true to your vision. Have a clear concept of the end result or even a mood board collage with different images showcasing how your chosen pieces and space will compliment each other. If in doubt, hire a professional to assist you. Don’t go in blind. I’d also recommend be unique, as this is what makes you stand out from the crowd.” n

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GET THE LOOK

/COMFORTELFURNITURE/BOARDS

GET THE LOOK FROM COMFORTEL

1.VENUS BLUSH Treatment Table 2.LARA BLUSH Reclining Salon Chair 3.OVAL LED Salon Mirror 4.STONE Floating Bench 5.SANSA BLUSH Single Waiting Seat

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Feminine reigns supreme in this salon look with blush softness. Layered with contemporary furniture, natural textures and a touch of metallic luxe for contrast, this salon design will become the perfect haven of femininity. And an instant Instagram fave.

THE PALETTE

BUSINESS

Make rebooking your Your rebooking rate indicates how well you’re making the most of your current clients, and locks in future revenue. This makes it an important metric for you and your staff to watch. Anita Quade chats to Isabella Castle about how it can improve your business. TO GIVE YOU the latest data and allow you to see where you sit compared to the industry average, we used Benchmark, a feature of Kitomba Salon and Spa Software, that compiles and compares anonymous data from the industry.

How is client rebooking calculated? “When a client books a future appointment within 24 hours of their appointment, they’re considered ‘rebooked’. If your client books a future appointment after 24 hours but within the first three months of that appointment, they are considered ‘retained’.”

What’s the average rebooking rate for the beauty industry? “In Q4 of 2020, the average rebooking rate for the beauty industry in Australia was 43%, while New Zealand was 47%.”

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focus in 2021

Set targets

Setting targets gives you a reason to look deeper into the numbers to see where you’re at and consider where you could be. Be sure to set a rebooking target for your team as that will give you an opportunity to celebrate together once you achieve it!

The World’s Only Skincare Powered by Ethically Derived Red Deer Umbilical Cord Lining Stem Cells

Automatic rebooking reminder

See if your salon software has an automatic rebooking reminder. That way your software can remind you when you’re invoicing a client and you don’t need to rely on your memory.

Create a rebooking culture

A rebooking culture is different from setting a reminder to ask your client to rebook. It’s about giving them a reason to come back. Insert value at every step of the client journey. For example, building a strong relationship with them or being invested in their future treatment plan will encourage them to rebook straight away.

Follow up

Encourage the clients who left without rebooking to do so with an automated email or text message. Thank them for visiting you, remind them to make a booking and link your online booking site so it’s as simple as possible. Your current client base has a lot of potential, and your improvement in that area can be measured by your rebooking rate. So take the time to see where you sit compared to the industry and start implementing some of these easy tips to improve it.

What does this data mean for the beauty industry? “Keep in mind this is the average! Salons, spas and clinics in the top percentile have a rebooking rate of 80% and above, meaning there’s plenty of room to improve. The reason why this number is so important is that when your rebooking rate improves, your appointment book is fuller and you secure future income. This can provide you with the confidence you need to make changes or decisions in your business. Rebooking your clients, when done correctly, can also help to increase the frequency of visits, meaning your client revisit period is reduced. If you’re able to get one extra appointment per year out of each of your clients, you’ll be able to effortlessly increase your annual revenue.”

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How can you improve your rebooking rate? “The first step is to find out what your rebooking rate is. You can use your salon software to run a report to get this figure. If it’s below 80%, then you have an amazing opportunity to work on improving this number in your business.” n

IT’S NO MIRACLE. IT’S SCIENCE ®

Isabella Castle is a member of the Marketing Team at Kitomba Salon and Spa Software. visit www.kitomba.com or call 1800 161 101.

Distributed by Advanced Cosmeceuticals TEL 1800 242 011 E-MAIL cs@advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au

advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

BUSINESS

A new era in

ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY BEAUTY Sustainability is a hot topic, and with consumers actively searching for and choosing environmentally conscious brands and businesses, the beauty industry is now resolved to become the next big player to join the eco-groundswell. Why is sustainability so important, and what can we do to become a part of this movement? By Stefanie Milla. The environmental problem we all face. EVERY YEAR MORE than 120 billion units of packaging are produced globally, and according to Zero Waste Week, a great portion of that contributes to over 18 million acres of lost forest annually. A recent report from the Victorian Government has shown that Australia generates more than 78 million tonnes of that waste per year. While a study by the EPA, has identified that industry and manufacturing alone is responsible for over 50% of all pollution. The problem, simply put, is that deforestation, excess waste and pollution are contributing to devasting changes in our weather, our environment and our wildlife, in addition to having a significant impact on our health.

The difference we can make. With such overwhelming statistics and consequences, you would be forgiven for feeling like the sustainability problem is too big to tackle, but the reality is that both people and companies are starting to make a tangible difference. In 1997 a mere total of 1.5 million tonnes of waste was recycled in Australia, but that figure has now dramatically

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increased to over 31 million tonnes in 2019 alone, and that is due in large part to the commitment that Australian businesses have made to sustainability. The truth is, if many people and businesses unite and collectively make small, sustained changes, it will alter the direction of our future and the condition of our planet.

The organisations and companies we can learn from. Sustainability is one of the core values of The Aesthetic & Beauty Industry Council which was launched in April 2021. They have made it their mission to partner with organisations, companies and brands that embrace high sustainability standards and are leading by example in this arena. In this way, together they can guide the industry in making eco-saving changes. These are just a few that can inspire us to do more, and that we can take some pointers from!

Sustainable Salons Perhaps the most progressive sustainability-focused company to hit the aesthetic industry is Sustainable Salons, which was founded

100% online memberships and soft-copy resources. They also use recycled tissue paper and compostable mailers with every online order. And if that’s not enough every purchase made supports One Tree Planted on Australian Soil. Beaute Industrie are an ethical compass for the aesthetic community, partnering with organisations such as the Sustainable Spa Association to encourage the implementation of sustainable practices into every Australian beauty business.

Dermalist

The reality is that alone, we can sometimes lack the initiative or the know-how to make even small, yet meaningful, sustainability adjustments to our daily practises and procedures. This is why the newly launched Aesthetic and Beauty Industry Council is excited to be introducing ABIC ECO in the second half of 2021. This is a first of its kind sustainability initiative that will provide everything that a salon or clinic needs to become environmentally responsible and sustainable. 1. Through ABIC ECO every Australian salon and clinic will have the ability to gain access to fast and easy guidance on the implementation of sustainability protocols 2. Staff training and education on correct and effective sustainability practices will be readily available 3. Salons and clinics will have the ability to apply for ABIC ECO Accreditation, which lets the industry and clients know that you take sustainability and environmental responsibility seriously and have implemented best practises within your businesses 4. Every industry professional will have access to a directory of trusted and vetted ABIC ECO sustainable partner businesses and organisations

Dermalist is at the forefront of sustainability and environmental consciousness. In addition to having 90% of packaging recyclable ready, what isn’t easily recyclable is refillable, as they’re one of the first clinical skincare brands to offer product Refill Cartridges — game changer in reducing landfill waste. Every Dermalist ingredient, component and every piece of packaging is either sustainably sourced or consciously produced. All of their formulations are manufactured in Australia under the most stringent accredited GMP standards, in five-star energy rated, organic- and vegan-certified facilities. But perhaps one of the most important initiatives is gaining their carbon-neutral accreditation and being part of the Australian Plant-a-Tree Program at www.carbonneutral. com.au, among other Australian based environmental and conservation projects.

Timely Salon Software Timely is more than just a software company. It not only unites a community of over 46,000 beauty professionals and helps them to manage their businesses, but it is also leading the way in sustainability education. In fact, they have partnered with Sustainable Salons to deliver The Complete Guide to Salon Sustainability, which is available for free, in addition to an array of eco-education offered on their website. They are a completely paperless online solution for all Australian beauty businesses, saving thousands of tonnes of clinic and salon paper consumption just by using their cloudbased platform.

Dermalogica Dermalogica is a leading international skincare brand made in California, which is known for its extremely high manufacturing and sustainability standards. All paper and cartons that Dermalogica use are FSC certified as sustainable for our forests. In addition, they have pledged their goal of 90% of all their packaging to be either recyclable or biodegradable, and considering they have hundreds of products under their brand, that is a tremendously inspiring achievement. They have also firmly avoided the use of artificial colours, mineral oil and micro-plastics, which place a substantial strain on our environment during their manufacture and disposal.

Beaute Industrie Beaute Industrie is an online support community for the professional beauty industry, and sustainability is a noteworthy part of every endeavour and event that they undertake. But they also take a practical approach to daily eco-saving by providing

BUSINESS

by Paul Frasca, in an effort to mitigate the millions of kilograms of annual waste created by salons and clinics in Australia. Sustainable Salons train your team to become ‘sustainability warriors’. They implement plans to sort, collect and responsibly recycle, or consciously dispose of salon waste, all while giving back to and investing in local communities. Any salon or clinic can sign up and immediately be on their way to becoming environmentally friendly and sustainable in just a few easy steps!

The way we make a viable long-term difference.

The impact of starting today Whilst motivation is the driver of change, action is its vehicle. So, if you are interested in making a difference to our environment or doing your part to protect and conserve our beautiful planet and home, the time to act is now. While you wait for the launch of ABIC ECO, you can simply start now with these five sustainability non-negotiables: 1. Turn the lights off when you are not in a room 2. Keep your PowerPoints turned off when you are not using them 3. Do fewer, larger washing loads 4. Layer up for winter instead of turning the heat on high (it’s better for your skin anyway!) 5. Recycle your waste correctly, no “wish-cycling” — if it doesn’t belong in the recycle bin then don’t put it there, otherwise the whole bin load will go into landfill, as recycle stations have a no sorting policy And remember the famous quote by Jane Goodall, “You cannot get through a single day without having an impact on the world around you. What you do makes a difference, and you have to decide what kind of a difference you want to make”. n Stefanie Milla is Founder of Dermalist Skincare and CEO of The Aesthetic & Beauty Industry Council. www.theabic.org.au

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

RED

There’s nothing chicer than a yearround tan. Help clients maintain their glow well into winter with these skin-friendly products. Photographer: Brandee Meier Styling and concept: Ruby Feneley Production assistant: Nicola Maglione

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TANNING

MineTan b.tan, Tanned AF 1 Hour Pro Spray Mist in “Darkest”, Marq Labs 1300 819 331 Techno Tan, Radiant Bronze Dry Tanning Oil in Medium Tan, Techno Tan 08 9412 3000 Mine Tan, Skin Rejuvenating Treatment Wonder Tan, Marq Labs 1300 819 331

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

The Mineral Magic

PROFILE

Mineral Makeup has always had its loyal fans, and as customers look for more eco-friendly alternatives brands are making their mark. Anita Quade chats to Anna Agostino, Director of Cozmetic Lab about her vision for the market. Anna, share with us a little of your beauty background… “HAVING WORKED AS a makeup artist for more than 15 years, I saw firsthand the products and ingredients that worked and which ones didn’t on various skin types. I gained a true appreciation for the beauty industry at this time, learning everything I could about the skin, the right products to use, how they functioned with different skin types and ultimately how to enhance a person’s natural beauty rather than just mask it.”

You took over the brand Cozmetic Lab in 2018. Tell us what interested you in this line? “I was first drawn to the brand as a customer. I fell in love with the quality of the products and simplicity of the ingredients. Having used the Cozmetic Lab range for more than 10 years, I had never seen my skin look so good. I was obsessed! As Cozmetic Lab was and still is a recommended by skincare professionals, I loved that the products were safe enough to use after facial treatments. The range really is an extension of your skincare routine.”

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What do you love most about the industry? “I love how innovative the cosmetics industry has become and that it is evolving to focus on natural beauty. So many brands are shifting their focus and refining their products to include cleaner and safer ingredients while not compromising on results. I think this is so important.”

How have you seen mineral makeup expand in the market? “Consumers are more aware than ever right now about the impact harmful ingredients can have on your skin. This interest combined with the desire to achieve a healthy and glowing complexion has seen an increased demand for mineral makeup products. With the ability to provide additional skincare benefits, mineral makeup is growing in popularity as the number one choice for our everyday makeup.”

How is the perception of mineral makeup altering? In the past it has got a bit of a bad rap for perhaps not being as effective as

mainstream makeup with the formulations and lasting ability. “We have recently seen a change in what people want and what they expect from their cosmetics. For a while, there was a big trend towards full coverage makeup, with intense contouring, highlighting, etc. This has now changed dramatically to focus on a much more natural and effortless look, using products with cleaner ingredients that leave the skin with a luminous finish. Mineral makeup really is seen as the mother of clean beauty.”

What is the most popular item in the range? “It is definitely our Mineral Foundation. This foundation has been created with a 3-in-1 formula, working as a concealer, foundation and setting powder to deliver a gorgeous and even complexion. The Cozmetic Lab Mineral Foundation was recently nominated and awarded the “Best Luxury Concealer and Foundation Product 2021” in the 2021 Health, Beauty & Wellness Awards hosted by LuxLife.”

Australian owned cutting-edge skincare designed for Australian conditions

I LOVE HOW INNOVATIVE THE COSMETICS INDUSTRY HAS BECOME AND THAT IT IS EVOLVING TO FOCUS ON NATURAL BEAUTY. Which beauty salons do you stock in? “The Cozmetic Lab products are currently stocked in SM Aesthetic Lab, Lily Room Cosmetic Clinic, Beauty at the Chase, Skin Deep Dermal as well as other salons across Australia and New Zealand.”

Do you find that you have a strictly loyal mineral makeup fans or are they happy to use this alongside mainstream formulations? “While most of our customers are loyal mineral makeup users, we are definitely seeing an increased number of people incorporate the Cozmetic Lab products into their routine alongside mainstream products. So many people use our finishing powders and mineral foundations on top of their liquid products to add a luminous and flawless finish.”

Where are the ingredients for the brand sourced?

Three premium collections boasting high quality active ingredients

“To ensure we only use ingredients that are of the highest quality and 100% cruelty free, we carefully source our ingredients across Australia.”

What are your plans to expand the brand? “We are currently working on some exciting new products that will launch in the coming months. Our aim is to always focus on creating skincare-powered cosmetics and our first two new products have been designed to help bridge the gap between mineral and mainstream makeup.” n

A Synergy of Science & Nature

skinvirtue.com.au 1800 242 011

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FINANCE

NSW small business

rebate scheme launches Apply now for help paying eligible government fees and charges. By Jessica Teas

NSW HAS INTRODUCED a scheme for small businesses, encouraging owners to apply for up to $1500 in credits that can be used to pay down the cost of government fees and charges. Treasurer Dominic Perrottet said the Small Business Fees and Charges Rebate was designed to benefit tens of thousands of small businesses across the state as NSW continues its post-pandemic recovery. “Our November Budget committed nearly $500 million to this rebate, which will leave more money in the pockets of eligible small businesses, sole traders and non-profit organisations.” Mr Perrottet said, “Small businesses are the lifeblood of our economy and supporting them equals supporting jobs. I encourage all eligible operators to register for the $1500 credit with Service NSW.”

What does this mean for your business? Small business owners who operate in the beauty industry can apply for the $1500 rebate scheme as long as they are within the eligible criteria to apply. It can be used to pay for all NSW fees and charges, except those found in the exclusion criteria (e.g. fines and penalties).

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How does it work? From 13 April 2021 to 30 June 2022 small businesses who are granted a rebate will receive funds in the form of a digital credit via their MyServices NSW business account, which can be drawn down to offset eligible fees and charges. Eligible businesses or not-for-profits only need to apply for the rebate once but can submit multiple claims until the full value of $1500 is reached on their digital credit.

Who is eligible? NSW says small businesses (including non-employing sole traders) and not-for-profit organisations are eligible for $1500 worth of rebates on government fees and charges if they: • have total Australian wages below the NSW Government 2020-21 payroll tax threshold of $1.2 million • have their own Australian Business Number (ABN) registered and/or are physically located and operating in New South Wales. Only one $1,500 rebate is available for a single ABN • are registered for goods and services tax (GST) • have a turnover of at least $75,000 per year n

Why Long Lashes eyelash enhancer? Long Lashes is an eyelash enhancer that helps nourish and repair your lashes, leaving them looking longer, thicker and fuller in as little as 4 to 8 weeks (full results seen around 12 weeks). Long Lashes contains vitamins, peptides and antioxidants that help to stimulate, strengthen and condition the eyelashes.

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Taking

It Slow There is a new wellness concept bringing a laid back approach to the industry in Sydney, thanks to this hidden escape in bustling Bondi. Anita Quade chats to Slow House founder Tash Higham about her Roman bathinginspired concept that is winning loyal fans.

VISIT BONDI ANY day of the week and it is filled with sunseekers, holiday makers and hip locals filling the streets and sandy strip. But now there is a stunning, serene studio space that lets people step away from the beachside pulsing pace and Zen out at their own speed. Enter The Slow House, which threw open its doors in the middle of 2020 to offer a space for clients to slow down their everyday lifestyle by offering holistic therapies to help detoxify the system with a choice of wellness experiences. The light filled space, positioned on Curlewis Street, offers instant relaxation as guests take a seat and can select from

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the menu that includes experiences like infrared saunas, Omnilux revive LED treatments, traditional coal saunas, ice baths, scrubs and slim and shape boosters. One of the most popular treatments is The Signature Slow — a 75 minute sessions that offers clients their own private suite. Here, it is up to you to prep with the delicious-smelling coconut scrub pre-sauna, before showering and entering the sauna. You can choose your own setting from the rainbow of therapy colours in the sauna depending on your focus, from detoxing to relaxing. There is also the added

bonus of an IPAD that allows you to play your own music while you sit back and expel toxins for 45 minutes. After exiting the sauna guests are encouraged to have a chilly shower and smother their skin with the Oway Slim and Shapes Booster featuring active ingredients like pink pepper to revitalise the system. It is all topped off with a relaxing Omnilux LED light therapy that is placed over your face for a final glow to help increase the synthesis of collagen in the skin. We check in and discover the ethos behind this incredible concept leading the way in wellness.

“Slow House is the brain child of partners in business and life, my fiance Jody Coggan and me. Jody has owned a fashion agency in Sydney for the past 16 years, in which I worked at as an operations and women’s sales manager for the past five years. Over the years, we travelled (pre-COVID) many times a year for business to places like LA, Bali, Tulum and New Zealand, where we would often find ourselves looking for a sauna to take a moment of stillness and relaxation in a busy schedule.”

How did you choose the location? “We felt that Bondi is the heart and soul of the Sydney wellness hub.”

Where did your interest in holistic wellness begin? “Once COVID hit, we spent many weeks at home keeping healthy by daily saunas in our backyard, ice baths in our bathroom and regularly adding scrubs and LED masks to our online shopping cart. It’s then we decided that what were doing at home could well and truly be enjoyed by anyone and everyone under one roof.

BEAUTY ESCAPE

Tash, tell us why you set up the concept of The Slow House?

Elements of Fire, Ice and Light and the practice of self-care.”

You set up this business venture in the middle of 2020, which would have been tricky – what were some of the trials and tribulations of setting it up at this time? “We didn’t feel there was any issues setting up at this time. We felt it was the perfect time to create a space that was made for wellness. Each person we approached agreed.”

Tell us the ethos behind the business? “Slow House lives by the mantras of slow living, a lifestyle choice devoted to living in a more balanced, meaningful and lifeaffirming way, making conscious everyday decisions to help decelerate modern life.”

What has been your proudest moment while setting up the concept? “The response we have had from the general public, so many positive experiences and people coming back for more. They are proud of themselves for taking a moment for themselves, self care

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

BEAUTY ESCAPE is important and should be a priority. We deserve it. We need it. So, reframe it as an essential self-service, an investment into ongoing wellbeing so we can continue to fulfill the roles we’ve carved out, and tend to the duties under our care.”

What has been one of the client’s favourite treatment? “Our Signature Slow & Omnilux Light Therapy.”

Do you think this is a new trend this movement towards self-care where clients can just check into a place like this and take care of their wellbeing at their leisure?

Do you have any plans to expand this concept?

“Yes, especially since Covid, people like their own space and to have their own time to slow down.”

“Yes, hopefully soon!”

What are some of the health benefits of the sauna and led light therapy?

“Extremely positive, so many return clients on a weekly basis we have first name friendships forming. We are so proud of our clients who continue to care for their health.” n

“FIRE comes from infrared sauna bathing; sweating is one of the safest ways to detox the body regularly. The more you sweat, the more toxins you can detox from your body,

as long as you are replacing with optimal fluid. We need to sweat every single day! Using infrared lamps directly heats your body from the inside out, providing both physical and psychological benefits that create the ultimate detoxification service. Light therapy is a completely non-invasive and pain free treatment that exposes you to precise infrared light, which gives a warm, gentle feeling. At Slow House we use Omnilux LED light therapy to provide fast results, because we shouldn’t wait for months or years to get incredible skin; after all, we are already on the detox process, why not glow from head to toe!”

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What has the reaction been like to the concept from customers?

www.slowhouse.com.au

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EVENTS

Loads of Lashes Fancy Lash hosted a VIP “Girls’ Lunch” at The Butler, Potts Point hosted by Lash Director Kathy Duong and Sweaty Betty’s Roxy Jacenko.

BEAUTY EDITORS AND Sydney It-girls braved the rain to attend Fancy Lashes Girls’ Lunch, where they were treated to an IberoAmerican banquet and cocktails. Nestled amongst lush foliage guests were treated to their own custom Daily Edited. Since the launch Fancy Lash Salon has made a name for itself as a Sydney’s top destination for brows and lash extensions. Lash Director Kathy Duong specialises in tailored, custom lashes, from natural classic, hybrid and Russian volume along with bespoke brow services. Roxy Jacenko noted that Kathy Duong’s expert applications had sold her on extensions. After checking hers out, we’re converted. n

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EVENTS

FILORGA’S FRENCH CONNECTION Select media guests were invited to celebrate the launch of internationally renowned French heritage brand Filorga and hear about the science and the history behind their laboratory driven formulations. Guests flocked to Sydney’s Ivy Sunroom where they were invited to discover Filorga’s extensive suite of skincare products, with options tailored to every age and skin-type. Treated to a luxurious breakfast we learnt all about the aesthetic science-driven brand. Luxurious formulations powered by NCEF complex that combined 50 active ingredients provide visible results in just seven days. We heard from three newly recruited Filorga devotees who trialled the brand for 10 days reported back on their outstanding results.

A Fri-yay glow-up with Portobello PR Always a treat, Team PB visited the Portobello Press Showing in Paddington. Sydney makeup artists Thanh Vo and Leah Baines ran flash makeover chairs demonstrating fresh and flawless looks using Trinny London products. Guests were sent home with a goodie bag to recreate the effortless looks at home. We then grabbed a coffee and checked out newness, from water activated lash-bands at Ardell to new products by Tanologist and BOA — sure to keep complexions glowing this winter.

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

SUSTAINABLE BEAUTY BREAKFAST Meet and Mingle

Join the team and guest speaker Paul Frasca from Sustainable Salons to discover how your business can profit from being eco-friendly while making a difference to the environment.

Discover environmentally friendly practices and the advancements in earth friendly skincare over this get together with like-minded leaders at The Butler, Potts Point on Monday 31st May 2021 at 9am. Tickets now on sale.

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