COVER STORY: MAKING A SUSTAINABLE CHANGE

MAKING A SUSTAINABLE CHANGE

Dermalogica has long been pioneers of ‘going green’ with incredible initiatives to reduce environmental long-term damage. Anita Quade chats to Global CEO Aurelian Lis and Director of Education Emma Hobson about the power of change.

IMPACTING THE SKIN CARE INDUSTRY, AND THE ENVIRONMENT, FOR GOOD

Dermalogica is introducing new mono-material pump packaging that can reduce waste and increase recyclability. Starting in 2022, Dermalogica will integrate recyclable pumps into its best-selling facial cleansers. Most pumps on the market are seemingly made of plastic, but actually include an internal metal spring, making them difficult to recycle and unavailable for most recycling collection services.

Dermalogica’s new mono-material pump consists of a plastic spring, which - like its bottles - is made of recyclable polyethylene, making it possible to dispose of the bottle and pump as one unit by simply placing it directly into the recycling bin. Additionally, the new pump is lighter weight, utilsing less virgin plastic which means a decreased demand on a non-renewable resource. This new packaging solution brings Dermalogica closer to its goal of having 100% of its bottles designed to be reused, recycled or composted by 2025.

Rapid Reveal Peel is changing from tubes inside a bag to a paper tray inside the carton. As well as being more environmentally friendly this packaging change also brings a price reduction to the Rapid Reveal Peel.

“Climate change is one of the biggest threats to our world today, accelerated by waste in landfills. Recyclable pumps reduce waste and make recycling skin care simpler. Traditional pumps include a metal spring, rendering them non-recyclable. Dermalogica’s mono-material pump consists of a single material, made of recyclable polyethylene, which allows both pump and bottle to be more easily recycled, while also using less virgin plastic overall. Being the first major skincare brand to launch these recyclable pumps puts pressure on other brands to follow our example and meet our precedent for sustainable packaging.”

– Aurelian Lis, Global CEO, Dermalogica

In case you missed it - The iconic Daily Microfoliant moved towards more sustainable packaging and a cleaner planet in November 2020. As part of a commitment to create a cleaner planet for future generations, our Daily Microfoliant Refill is made with 92% less plastic, 95.6% less oil and 95.7% fewer greenhouse gas emissions compared to the Daily Microfoliant canister, sifter and cap.

“It’s exciting to be introducing this new game changing packaging technology to our customers who many we know have the desire to make conscious decisions with regarding the goods they purchase being housed in the latest sustainable packaging.”

– Emma Hobson, Director of Education Asia Pacific, Dermalogica

Sustainability and environmental impact are at top of mind for Clear Start. Post-Consumer Resin (PCR) is now rolling out across the entire Clear Start packaging line. Their mission is to do their part in cleaning up our beautiful planet for a brighter future. Its important that we create cruelty-free and certified vegan products for a more sustainable earth, while helping keep skin healthy.

“Packaging re-imagination has led to significant innovations as we leverage PCR and other sustainable materials across our product portfolio. Following the success of our Daily Microfoliant Refill, which offers our iconic exfoliator in 92% less plastic packaging, we will soon launch another best-seller in a similar refill format. Updating our packaging to be 100% reused, recycled, and/ or composted is a key part of our sustainability commitment and packaging design for the future.”

– Aurelian Lis, Global CEO, Dermalogica

“Every action has a reaction. For every positive change we can make to our packaging will have a positive impact on our environment and our legacy as a company. These changes are important and though there is much yet to be done, every action is accumulative and will take us to our greater goal.”

– Emma Hobson, Director of Education Asia Pacific, Dermalogica

IN APRIL 2021 WE ANNOUNCED OUR HEALTHY SKIN, HEALTHY PLANET SUSTAINABILITY INITIATIVE - PRIORITISING THE HEALTH OF OUR SKIN ALONG WITH THE HEALTH OF OUR PLANET

Healthy Skin, Healthy Planet will impact Dermalogica from the very start of their products' lifescylcles to the very end. The initiative will promote renewable ingredients and conscious packaging design, drastically reduce material waste, and force conversations that drive longterm change. As part of a continuing desire to create a cleaner planet for future generations, by 2025 Dermalogica will meet or surpass the following sustainability goals:

◆ 90% of our ingredients will be sustainably sourced*

◆ 100% of tubes, bottles, and boxes will be designed to be reused, recycled, and/or composted

◆ The majority of the plastic in packaging will be derived from recycled material or plant-based material**

◆ partner primarily with suppliers who monitor and manage their carbon footprint***

Their Clear Start sub-brand will also meet or surpass these Healthy Skin, Healthy Planet targets by 2025.

Finally, Dermalogica will work to increase clarity around every product’s sustainability credentials on packaging and on websites.

Dermalogica's passion for Sustainable Salons is extremely strong, and they not only work with them to make salon waste history but promote for their students and their salons to do the same. This social enterprise helps salon members reduce their impact on the planet and invest in local communities, being much more than just recycling.

“Every impactful change, small or large, that Dermalogica can make to its packaging and business practices helps us with our mandate for a sustainable future. Everything counts and everything matters. Our goals are set and our commitment is unwavering. We are encouraged by the work we have done so far and the positive feedback we have received but even prouder of the work and the goals we have laid out for ourselves for the future. Dermalogica will be part of the solution not the problem.”

– Emma Hobson, Director of Education Asia Pacific, Dermalogica

“As the industry leader, we have an opportunity and a responsibility to make a positive impact, not just on peoples’ skin, but on the environment. We are on track to meet and in some cases surpass our sustainability goals which commit to using sustainably sourced ingredients, reducing material waste, and driving long term change.”

– Aurelian Lis, Global CEO, Dermalogica

* 90% of our ingredients, by mass, will be determined sustainable by certification and/or other supporting data. For ingredients with no existing certification practices, we will seek secondary documentation proving sustainable credentials. ** 51% or more of packaging plastic, by mass, will be derived from recycled plastic or plant-based materials. ***All partners and vendors will be asked to provide evidence of their carbon footprint management practices.

AURELIAN LIS, Global CEO, Dermalogica

How difficult was it at the beginning to make “green” changes?

“We were committed to making meaningful change, so we added new positions in our global R&D and operations teams to develop sustainable solutions that would work for our businesses around the world. From there, the teams have been able to build strategic partnerships with key suppliers to collaborate on technology developments that were not readily available. The mono-material pump is a great example of such a collaboration, and we have more items in the pipeline.”

Do you feel now skincare companies are much more aware of their environmental footprint?

“Yes, which is good for many reasons, not least that it sparks sustainable innovation across the industry.”

What are some of the easiest ways skincare companies can reduce their footprint?

“One of the simplest things we can all do is to make it easy for customers to recycle their empty skin care packaging. That includes education on which bottles, tubes, and jars are recyclable, and ideally providing ways for them to return compliant products. In the US we are embarking on a program to collect hard to recycle and non-recyclable products, with the intent to implement globally.”

What is one thing you wish you could change immediately to reduce the impact of environmental damage?

“Collectively, the ability to recycle smaller items. So much of the skin care on the market is in small packets or sachets. Unfortunately, it’s difficult for municipalities to recycle items smaller than 5cm. That’s got to change.”

EMMA HOBSON, Director of Education Asia Pacific, Dermalogica

Emma, you have been such a pioneer as part of the team at Dermalogica when it comes to sustainability – why has this been so important to you?

“Personally, I have a deep interest in the impact each of us have when it comes to the environment. Climate change is real, and an incredibly pressing issue that individuals, communities, companies, and countries, I believe, should have as a pressing mandate for change. I fear for the survival of our planet, our natural world and all its inhabitants from the smallest to the largest of creatures if we don’t act now.

Therefore I was delighted to learn a few years ago of Unilever’s Climate Transition Action Plan and how that encompasses the same targets for change by Dermalogica.”

How difficult was it at the beginning to make these “green” changes?

“On a local level, we needed to take responsibility for what impact we make on our environment in Australia. We needed to ‘audit’ our footprint and see what changes we could make to improve our business practices around sustainability. Firstly, we joined The Australian Packaging Covenant Organisation https://apco. org.au who have been incredibly supportive and informative and guided us with relation to improving our packaging and distribution within Australia.

We employed the services of Sustainable Salons, in all our training centres and reviewed every sundry we used across our organisation and said can we purchase an alternative that would be more sustainable, if we could we changed it. We looked at our energy consumption, even reducing the hours the air conditioning was switched on and off at the offices and increasing the room temperature by a comfortable degree warmer to reduce consumption. We set up a sustainable committee of passionate employees to drive our initiatives and seek new and better ways we could work as a collective group. We continue to provide regular education to our team on living a more sustainable life both at work and at home.”

Can you tell me the impact these top three sustainable initiatives have had?

“Every positive change we make will have a ripple effect on the world we live in. By aiding the elimination of deforestation by having packaging created from wood approved by the FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) is one way we know we are making a difference. By scrutinising and sourcing all ingredients from suppliers who offer sustainably sourced produce is another, and to ensure by 2025 100% of our tubes, bottles, and boxes will be designed to be reused, recycled, and/or composted.

These actions speak clearly to our customers who make it one of their priorities to seek out companies following sustainability practices. It speaks to other manufacturers to also follow suit to ensure they are being kept accountable and it speaks to our employees who too care deeply for the type of company they wish to work for now and in the future.”

Do you feel now skincare companies are much more aware of their environmental footprint?

“I am delighted to say yes, they are. There are many who still have a lot of ‘catching up’ to do but it is front and centre on their radar for the changes they HAVE to make if they wish to continue to be taken seriously in the future by the consumer.”

What are some of the easiest ways skincare companies can reduce their footprint?

“As a starting point I’d suggest they join APCO and complete a packaging and distribution audit and see where they can start to implement change.”

You travel so much for work with Dermalogica – do you think Australia is ahead of the game when it comes to global awareness of sustainability?

“Sadly, no I do not. I travel on occasion to Scandinavia; they are streets ahead of us as are our close neighbours in New Zealand. We have a great deal of work to do but much needs to be done by government and especially local councils.”

Any more plans this year in regards to sustainability?

“It’s a continual ‘work in progress’. We will continue to strive to our goals and you will see this reflected in new packaging and improved business practices.”