6 minute read
INFLUENCER: COMPLEXION PERFECTION
What is Complexion Perfection?
We are all after that perfect complexion, the one that looks smooth, radiant and realistic and not covered up with excessive makeup, but can we get it?
-By Michael Brown
Of course we can. We just need to be patient (if skin issues are visible), take our time and have the knowledge of what products to use to prep for different skin types and textures.
As a celebrity makeup artist, skin prep is on the daily for me. Recognising and understanding what each skin type and texture may need is now the norm, but it took a lot of trial and errors over the years for me to get it right every time.
We are so lucky in today’s world to have a complete wardrobe of complexion products and primers to assist in making the skin look as realistic as possible. Spend the time to prime.
Don’t think layering on foundation on will fix the aesthetic of the skin, because it won’t.
The power of skin prep is real and such an important part of any makeup look.
SKINCARE MAINTENANCE VS SKINCARE ACTIVES
We should all know by now how important skincare is to improve skin texture and tone, especially for makeup wearers. But no matter how basic your routine is, something is better than nothing.
A basic routine for general skincare maintenance should include daily cleansing, adding moisture and SPF for protection, with a weekly scrub to assist in skin renewal. This is enough of a routine for some, especially when you’re younger. But as we start to age, and if makeup is starting to look ‘obvious’, you may want to add in some extra products and actives to really get the job done. Makeup should look like a second skin and enhance a person’s features, but without appearing too noticeable.
Using actives is where we can start getting real results. Vitamin C is one ingredient that works so well for overall skin tone brightness, clarity and anti-oxidant protection. Men and women can benefit from this anti-fatigue ingredient and the overall upgrade of our skin tone, so for me, this is great during day. Apply before makeup for that extra radiance.
Another top ingredient is retinol. Unlike vitamin C, which works on skin tone, this works on skin texture, giving a smoother appearance. It is perfect for improving textured skin and lines and wrinkles. Used at night, it’s best to start slowly, every other night or even every third night to be safe. Find one that isn’t too drying, as this will affect your overall skin glow.
Combatting both skin texture and tone is key in skincare for anyone wanting more results than just basic skin maintenance.
Apart from the ever-so-popular hyaluronic acid – a high intensity hydrating ingredient – which is pretty much in everything these days, including makeup products, there is another star ingredient - niacinamide. Often mixed in with other key ingredients, niacinamide is great for all skin types as it helps protect and repair the skin’s barrier. It is amazing to use after treatments, on sensitive skin, or if you’ve used harsh products and are trying to calm the skin down. It’s also great for oily skin as it can help control shine and add a smoothing element.
The above actives can be packaged separately or combined with other ingredients as an all rounder, it all depends on your key focuses and skin type.
Do you want to focus on more skin tone? Or texture? Or perhaps both! The more in tune you are with what the skin may need, the better results your makeup will have when it’s applied over the top of these base products and ingredients.
SKINCARE PRIMING VS MAKEUP PRIMERS
When using any skincare, especially actives with claims attached to them, you need to use for at least four weeks to see visible results. Our skin cell turnover cycle is every 28 days and slows as we get older, hence why we use exfoliation products to assist in the process.
My above recommendations will help and enhance your skin tone and texture, but it takes time to see results. No two natural cell turnover time periods are exactly the same.
So, skincare does prime our skin before makeup, but more so in a moisture sense on a daily basis. Remember, true results for actives can take up to four weeks or more.
Makeup primers, on the other hand, are very instant. They immediately hydrate the skin. Textured skin can look matte and refined, while skin tone can automatically look more radiant and fresh. Makeup primers are your skincare routine’s assistant, allowing makeup to sit better, look fresher and last longer.
We are also seeing more and more skin ingredients infused into makeup primers, especially things such as niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, but even vitamin C and mild AHAs, which help smooth skin texture.
The most common new term for primers is the word ‘blur’ and yes, they work! I now use one everyday, as it’s almost like using a smoothing filter over your face, but way more realistic being in real life and not looking at skin through a device.
Blue primers are great for anyone with dry/dehydrated skin as they are more hydrating and diffuse imperfections like fine lines, wrinkles and pores.
A mattifying blur primer can do all of the above, but can have more of an impact on textured skin like pores and little bumps. It helps to achieve a mattifying, smoother finish, which preps the skin for the foundation to perfectly sit on the face. You can easily then add colour to even out the skin tone.
Generally, the more oily and shine focused you are, the skin’s texture and pores are also usually an issue. Always opt for a matte primer to smooth out these issues, and do not add too much glow and light reflection, which can enhance these concerns.
If skin tone is a concern, go for an uplifting, hydrating primer that can add glow, but still look overall smooth in areas where lines and wrinkles are visible. It’s the perfect pre-foundation canvas.
And to close, if you are ever working on a client that has specifically asked for a particular type or brand of foundation, it’s important to check out what they are using under their makeup to help assist and support the skin. No foundation can do its job without the above knowledge on skincare and skin prep. Realistic skin is in, so prep accordingly!