Spa & Clinic volume 71 - Spring 2017 by The Intermedia Group

SPA+CLINIC aesthetics • medi • wellness

spaandclinic.com.au

TOP TECH TIPS FOR 2018 A -LIST

The Superstar of Skincare Secrets of

INDUSTRY ICONS

THE NEW LUXURY SPECIAL REPORT

Volume 71 Spring 2017

CONTENTS

Cover Stories The New Luxury special report

Secrets of Icons of Industry

Top Tech Tips for 2018

A List Superstar of Skincare

In This Issue

50 60 80

The importance of ergonomically correct furniture

The science of aromatherapy

Ayurvedic herbs for health and beauty

The New Luxe special promotion

New age of sun protection

Cosmetic medical disasters that have rocked the industry

New laser guidelines are coming - protect your business and reputation

Spotlight on products

Cruelty Free Makeup

Oh so chic â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the art of French manicures

On The Cover It all began in 1956 with a black rose, the symbol of inďŹ nite beauty. Since then, as the pioneer in professional skincare, BABOR has set the standard for skincare research in Germany. BABOR was founded by biochemist Dr Michael Babor, who developed precision formulas based on the most innovative active ingredients. The DOCTOR BABOR range is a result of the close collaboration between skincare and medicine, using cutting-edge technology to produce active formulas for every skin type. DOCTOR BABOR is distributed in Australia through salons, spas and clinics.

BABOR.COM.AU

s pa a n d cl i n i c.co m.a u | 7

Organiser - Cosmoprof Asia Ltd

LOGOTYPES COMMUNICATION & ESPACE

THE LIGHT POWDER

EXPERIENCE

F A C T O R Y

The Light Powder Factory, a live journey to experience how a cosmetic powder is made

Visit the special areas of Natural & Organic, Wellness & Spa and Discover Trends

CosmoLab, a real laboratory to experience how a bath fizzer is made

Enjoy the charity shopping at Boutique and donate

Cosmoprof Awards - Innovation Circle will celebrate the most innovative packaging

Cosmoprof Awards - Beauty Circle will honour the most impressive finished product

C PA MO powered by COS K

IA &

SI A COSMOPROF A

to the Hong Kong Breast Cancer Foundation

SPA+CLINIC aesthetics • medi • wellness

published by BHA MEDIA Pty Ltd 41 Bridge Rd, Glebe NSW 2037 ph: 02 9660 2113 fax: 02 9660 4419

managing director Intermedia Simon Grover

managing director BHA Media Glenn Silburn

editor Jenni Gilbert

national advertising manager Bernadette Borg

graphic designer Leanne Hogbin

head of circulation Chris Blacklock

to subscribe To subscribe by credit card call 1800 651 422 or visit www.intermedia.com.au To subscribe by cheque or money order, make cheque/money order payable to: The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd. P.O. Box 55, Glebe, NSW Australia 2037 AUSTRALIA 1 yr (4 issues) $AUD 79.00 inc GST 2yrs (8 issues) $AUD 126.40 inc GST – SAVE 20% 3yrs (12 issues) $AUD 165.90 inc GST – SAVE 30% NEW ZEALAND 1 yr (4 issues) $AUD 100.00 ASIA/PACIFIC 1 yr (4 issues) $AUD 110.00 REST OF WORLD 1 yr (4 issues) $AUD 127.00 Payable in Australian dollars includes air postage

advertising enquiries Bernadette Borg ph: +61 2 9660 2113 mob: 0409 863 348 email: bborg@intermedia.com.au This publication is published by BHA MEDIA Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information.All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication. Copyright © 2017 BHA Media Pty Ltd.

From The Editor IT IS WITH considerable sadness that I am writing my last editor’s letter for SPA+CLINIC but, after a memorable three and a half years, it’s time to move on and pass the baton to someone else. I have seen a huge evolution in the industry in that time – which in the overall scheme hasn’t been a long time for the breadth of change and advances across the spectrum. Medi-cosmetic procedures, aesthetics and wellness have merged ever closer to provide holistic and superior outcomes for their patients/clients. Successful salons, spas and clinics know that you don’t just treat the symptoms of a client’s concerns but look for the cause. Let’s use acne as an example. Experienced therapists will know that as excellent as their products and treatment protocols may be, if the client’s acne has a systemic cause (eg. gut health problems or a hormonal disturbance), topical treatments will only do so much, or perhaps not a lot at all. An experienced and skillful therapist will conduct a thorough consultation to ascertain as much about the client’s health and lifestyle as possible to provide clues as to the cause. It may then become apparent that they should also seek advice from a medical and/or wellness professional (the latter such as a naturopath, nutritionist) or in tandem with skin treatments if a successful outcome is to be achieved. Likewise an experienced plastic surgeon, cosmetic surgeon or cosmetic physician will know that however good their work – whether it be by scalpel or needle – to enhance, rejuvenate or correct people’s features, if the patient’s skin is damaged or unhealthy, that work will not be to the best possible advantage. And neither the

professional nor patient wins in that case. If a doctor doesn’t want to offer skincare within their practice, they will refer patients to a respected dermal clinician and therapist, to work in tandem with the med-cosmetic procedure(s). The importance of creating cross-referral networks has thus never been greater – business owners and managers across the spectrum of the industry know that jealously guarding their turf, worried that they will lose clients/patients to “rivals”, would actually end up harming that business. I have heard so often from doctors, and salon, spa and clinic owners that “sharing the love” - and their patients/clients - has actually brought them more business. I’ve watched incredible advances in aesthetic device technology for everything from body sculpting to skin rejuvenation, and in skincare formulations. The push to “active naturals” formulations is noteworthy, as is brands’ awareness that to keep today’s customer engaged they must be conscious as far as possible of issues such as eco-consciousness, sustainability and animal welfare (see our story on cruelty-free makeup, Page 91). I could go on and on, but I won’t. Thank you so much for your support and feedback over these three-plus years – it’s been greatly appreciated. And I hope to see you around the traps!

Jenni Gilbert Editor

www.facebook.com/spaclinicmagazine @SpaAndClinic twitter.com/spaandclinic www.instagram.com/spaandclinic www.linkedin.com/company/spaclinic

s pa a n d cl i n i c.co m.a u | 9

PROMOTION

The key to good hydration

10 | SPA+CLINIC

PROMOTION

DOCTOR BABOR

HYDRO CELLULAR Highly efficient multifunctional skin care for maximum formation, binding and storage of moisture reserves, both inside and outside. Containing 3-fold Hyaluronic acid, HY 3 Peptides, NMF Moisturizing Complex and moisture protecting biopolymers for extremely dehydrated and prematurely ageing skin.

yaluronic acid is the number one beauty power ingredient. This substance, which occurs naturally in the body, supplies moisture and binds it in the skin. From the age of 25, however, the skin can no longer fully replenish the body’s own hyaluronic acid. This is where the specialist DOCTOR BABOR HYDRO CELLULAR products help to provide a long-lasting moisture boost, resulting in plump, even-looking skin and fewer lines. This effective duo, comprising a cream and

serum, does away with the need for hyaluronic acid fillers. What is it that makes this highperformance skincare so special? The answer is: inside-out/outsidein skin hydration. The active ingredients in Hydro Cellular saturate the skin with moisture, plump up the skin from the inside and lock in moisture with a 24-hour reservoir effect. BABOR.COM.AU

From the outside: Stabilised consistent moisture levels with protection against transepidermal water loss

From the inside: Stimulation of hyaluronic acid synthesis with optimized moisture binding capacity

WHY HYDRO CELLULAR ? • Hydrated skin is important for healthy and young looking skin • Hydrating skin care preserves and strengthens the skin’s barrier • Reduces the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) • Reduces rough itchy skin • Helps to slow down skin ageing • Fights premature ageing • 24 hour moisturising effect The result: Skin has a smooth, supple and plumped-up appearance

s pa a n d cl i n i c.co m.a u | 11

THE NEW

LUXURY Mention of the word “luxury” immediately elicits visions of largely inaccessible products and experiences for people without immense wealth and/or influence. But it’s a new world. By Jenni Gilbert.

ames like Azzedine Alaia, Balmain, Chanel, Dior, Escada, Fendi, Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Yves St Laurent, etc are writ large in the popular psyche of iconic luxury brands. Some might say the Kardashian and Jenner clans, their ethos and multi-million dollar product empires, embody luxury too. It’s all semantic, really, according to individual values. But what can’t be denied is that people vote with their wallets when it comes to what luxury means to them. A couple of years ago, SPA+CLINIC predicted this trend, courtesy of Dr Ross Honeywill, and echoed recently by Dr Helen Cummins. To that effect, SPA+CLINIC has produced a special Luxury promotion in this edition (see from Page 36), showcasing brands that embody the new eco/NEO luxe. Today’s luxury is no longer lusting after expensive name labels. It’s beyond bling. Luxury has taken on a new meaning for today’s consumer, who seeks a different dimension of indulgence. Concepts such as authenticity, uniqueness, eco-consciousness, sustainability, altruism, natural and ethically-sourced ingredients and awareness of what is harmful to the body and the world around us - etcetera - all come into play. And of course it must provide great delight, or why else would it be luxurious?

12 | SPA+CLINIC

Dr Helen Cummins, an Irish-born and Spanish-based sociologist and luxury lifestyle publisher and editor, spoke about this shift in her blog in 2013. “It has now become a reality in the global context of luxury and, indeed, consumerism as we know it,” Dr Cummins, founder of abcMallorca luxury lifestyle magazine in Palma de Mallorca, told SPA+CLINIC. “The definition of luxury has been changing. It is a time when many are putting greater value on experiences, and the search for the simple and authentic pleasures in life that make us content with who we are and what we stand for: a profound belief that happiness comes from being, and not from having. “This is easy to say when one has all one wants. But when does one realise that they have all they want (or indeed need) to attain the holy grail of contentment, happiness and peace of mind? “A concept that places value on attributes such as authenticity, sustainability, tradition and longevity – attributes that are not easily replaceable and are difficult to replicate. “In my opinion, the future for luxury products in the original sentiment of the word will be a return to demand for bespoke products where customisation to fit personal requirements will be the enduring, sought-after luxury product of the future.”

FEATURE

Australian Dr Ross Honeywill is an internationally recognised social scientist specialising in measuring and mapping value in the consumer marketplace. He is an Adjunct Associate Professor at the University of Tasmania’s school of business and economics and has assisted global and national brands including Lexus, Sony, Moët-Hennessy, Yahoo!, Qantas, National Australia Bank, Westpac Broking, David Jones, Foster’s Group, Fairfax Media, ACP Magazines, Macquarie Bank and Tourism Victoria, among others. He caught SPA+CLINIC’s attention at a conference in 2014 where he spoke about Planet NEO (New Economic Order), which we wrote about then, when NEOs only seemed to be on the horizon. They’re everywhere now, and they are your clients, existing and potential! “The NEO typology is a population classification, revealing that society is split pretty much in two: the New Economic Order, or NEOs, and the traditional economic order, or Traditionals. And they’re as different as truffles and McDonald’s,” Dr Honeywill says. “The first type is the socially progressive, high-spending, high discretionary-choice NEOs, 93 percent of whom are in the Big Spender category (the top third of discretionary spenders in the economy). “NEOs spend more, and more frequently, than anyone else.

Ninety-three percent of NEOs are in the Big Spender category, compared to only four percent of Traditionals. “NEOs treat the commodities of life as mandatory and focus their real spending and investing on what is known as elective consumption. So, for example, they’re spending less on traditional products and spending more on creating emotional experiences by buying brands and experiences that are authentic and offer provenance.” They’re paying for yoga classes and private trainers; they’re drinking fewer glasses of wine but buying better quality; they’re vacationing in places that enrich their spirit; they’re buying more fashion, more frequently; they’re outsourcing personal services like driving (Uber) and cooking; and they’re paying a premium for premium advice when it counts. “NEOs are inconspicuous consumers. Because they define themselves by who they are and what they stand for, they don’t need to surround themselves with overt luxury or symbols of belonging. “They do however want beauty, design, quality, rich information, authenticity, flexibility, provenance and choice. “NEOs are far from some small niche in society – they are a quarter of the population, and have powerful social and business clout. There are 4.5 million NEOs in Australia and 60 million in the US.”

“Today’s luxury is no longer lusting after expensive name labels. It’s beyond bling. Luxury has taken on a new meaning for today’s consumer, who seeks a different dimension of indulgence. ”

s pa a n d cl i n i c.co m.a u | 13

FEATURE

Paving the way Heritage brands take pride of place in the new concept of luxury Team PAYOT Australia gets some hands on practise with trainers at PAYOT HQ

Every year PAYOT Australia rewards its top salon owners with a week in Paris. Here executives at PAYOT HQ in Paris welcome this year's contingent.

he thing about the New Luxury is that discerning consumers know it’s not about throwing the baby out with the bath water. Brands that have passed the test of time and are major forces today are testament to that. Let’s use Payot as an example. The skincare brand was founded nearly 100 years ago (in 1919, by Dr Nadia Payot, in Paris – centenary celebrations forthcoming!) and is as relevant and treasured today as it was embraced then. Payot is at the cutting edge of skincare circa 21st century, with its own laboratory in Paris. However, one of the brand’s most popular products is one of its “babies”, Pâte Grise. Worldwide, Payot sells a jar of Pâte Grise every five minutes. “For 70 years, Pâte Grise has been the ideal skincare to bring small blemishes to a maturation phase,” says Payot Australia general manager Rita Smith. In 1947 Dr Nadia Payot was already world famous for her specialised facial massage and treatments. She is renowned for having developed the modern-day facial technique as a result of her dealings with prima ballerina Anna Pavlova New York nearly a century ago; a 42-step massage movment.

14 | SPA+CLINIC

Dr Nadia Payot

in Pâte Grise

Dr Payot noted that the-then 37-year-old artiste had the body of a teenager through punishing training as a ballerina, but the face of a much older person than her chronological age. She had published Physical Culture for the Face and Neck, which described her massage techniques and philosophy of cleanse, nourish and stimulate and she was developing unique beauty treatments and skincare products that worked in synergy using her knowledge of herbs, plants and minerals. Dr Payot had women from all over Europe coming to her beauty institute in Paris to treat their skin. Film stars such as Rita Hayworth and Ingrid Bergman were regular visitors experiencing treatments and benefiting from Dr Payot’s knowledge of the skin. “Payot enjoys a colourful and rich history in skincare, with founder Dr Nadia Payot acknowledged as a trailblazer in the cosmetics industry,” says Rita Smith. “We’re one of the few companies in the world to have our own research and development laboratory with a team of specialised doctors, scientists, pharmacists, dermatologists, galenic engineers and toxicologists provide ahead-of-its-time innovation with ingredient formulation and technology. PAYOT.COM/AU/EN

THE DNA RENEWAL DIFFERENCE: DNA Renewal offers a range of anti-ageing skin care formulated by world-renowned dermatologist Dr. Ronald Moy. The range has the highest levels of active ingredients for optimal performance with proven clinical results. It works to effectively help repair photo-damaged ageing skin using high concentrations of DNA Repair Enzymes and Growth Factors.

Clinically proven to help repair photodamaged ageing skin

EVENTS

Introducing the Cosmoprof Asia 2017, the most important exhibition in the Asia-Pacific region for trends and novelties of the cosmetic world, proudly presents the inaugural Cosmoprof Awards

osmoprof Asia 2017’s inaugural Cosmoprof Awards are specially designed to recognise the most innovative products from all sectors of the beauty industry attending the expo extravaganza. This is just one of the initiatives across the two venues of Cosmoprof Asia, the show representing all beauty sectors – Perfumery and Cosmetics, Natural and Organic, Beauty Salon, Hair, Nail and Accessories – to be held at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, November 15-17. Meanwhile, Cosmopack Asia, to be held 16 | SPA+CLINIC

at the AsiaWorld-Expo November 14-16, gives exposure to the entire supply chain in the beauty industry, from ingredients to contract manufacturing, from machinery to packaging. Unlike other competitions in the industry, Cosmoprof Awards is open to the participation of companies from all sectors of the beauty industry attending the Cosmoprof Asia 2017, from exhibitors of raw materials and formulation, to those involved in packaging and OEM, machinery, as well as finished products. Cosmoprof Awards consists of the

Innovation Circle Awards and the Beauty Circle Awards. The Innovation Circle Awards, presented for the first time last year, acknowledges companies with excellence in formulation and packaging, which are exhibiting in AsiaWorld-Expo. Meanwhile, the Beauty Circle Awards, making its debut in 2017, celebrates the creativity and the most successful marketing strategies of exhibitors in the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. Both initiatives are organised in partnership with Beautystreams, the

company that also designs the display area for the finalists’ products. Meanwhile, the design of the trophies is being undertaken by Centdegrés. The finalists will be announced on September 26 to provide ample time for them to send their products to Hong Kong. Winners of the Innovation Circle Awards will be announced on November 14 at the AsiaWorld-Expo. The winners of the Beauty Circle Awards will be unveiled on November 15 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.

INNOVATION CIRCLE AWARDS JURY The jury of the Innovation Circle Awards is made up of experts from specialised brands and magazines of the various segments in the production chain. They include: • Andrea Alvares – NATURA (Brazil) • Elie Papiernick – CENTDEGRÉS (France) • Joyce Kim – NYX COSMETICS (US) • Julia Wray – SPC (UK) • Kilala Tilaar – MARTHA TILAAR GROUP (Indonesia) • Lan Vu – BEAUTYSTREAMS (US) • Luc Berriet – FIRMENICH (Singapore) • Lyla Wu - NEUNI GROUP (China) • Masa Cui – MARIE DALGAR (China) • Oonagh Phillips – BW CONFIDENTIAL (France) • Sam Cheow – L’ORÉAL (US) • Sarina Godin – BUTTER LONDON (US) • Seung-chuel Kim – TONYMOLY (Korea) • Stephane Colleu – DR BRANDT SKINCARE (US) • Xiaojing Huang – YANG DESIGN (China) Nightscape is the theme of the Innovation Circle Awards upon which the general mood of the display area and the selection of the best entries will be based. There are five categories plus a special award by the jury: • The Makeup Formula Award – includes colour cosmetics and nails • The Skincare Formula Award – • The Skincare Packaging Technology Award – Includes skincare, hair, toiletries and personal care • The Makeup Packaging Technology Award – Includes colour cosmetics and nails • The Packaging Design Award – Includes colour cosmetics, nails, skin care, hair, toiletries, personal care and fragrances • The Special Jury Award – The recipient

of this award is recognised by the jury as the best among the finalists in terms of innovation, creativity, sustainability and execution.

BEAUTY CIRCLE AWARDS JURY The jury of the Beauty Circle Awards is made up of experts from specialised brands and magazines in the beauty sector: • Britta Fleck – GLOSSYBOX (US) • Carlotta Jacobsson – COSMETIC EXECUTIVE WOMEN (CEW) (US) • Eva Lagarde – PREMIUMBEAUTYNEWS. COM (France) • Flynn Matthews – GOOGLE (US) • Jans Peter Peuckert – PARFUMERIE DOUGLAS (Germany) • Jisu Paek – VOGUE KOREA (Korea) • Karine Ohana – OHANA & CO (France) • Laura Husband – PURE BEAUTY MAGAZINE (UK) • Leslie Blair – VITALITY MAGAZINE (UK) • Louis Houdart – CREATIVE CAPITAL (China)

• Michael Nolte – BEAUTYSTREAMS (US) • Roberto Pissimiglia – ESTETICA MAGAZINE (Italy) • Stephanie Shiu – ASIASPA MAGAZINE (Hong Kong) The award categories are: • The MakeUp Product Award – Includes face-complexion, eyes and lips products • The Skincare Product Award – Includes face, body, sun care, personal care and toiletries • The Nail Product Award – Includes nail care, nail colour and nail art • The Hair Product Award – Includes hair care, hair colour and hair styling • The Natural and Organic Award – All categories • The Best Beauty Brand Online Award – Selected among the finalists of all the above categories based on product marketing impact, and exhibitor’s capacity in brand building, promotion and cultivating relationships, social media impact, innovation and outstanding online presence. COSMOPROF-ASIA.COM

s pa a n d cl i n i c.co m.a u | 17

As seen in H Payot w arpers Bazaa r ant to s end YO & Vogue maga U New z Custom ines ers

EMBRACE THE NEW:

Make More Profit in 2018 In what is an ever-more ruthlessly competitive industry, what are key factors that will keep your biz up with – but ideally ahead of – the game? Food for thought as we head towards 2018, by Kirien Withers*.

n my observation over 27 years of would be the ability to turn on a watching spas and salons come dime as they say, to know when the and go, or stay strong, those that winds of change are blowing and stay strong generally exhibit three be able to ride them, while the major qualities, year in year out. clients only experience a seamless The first is an absolute core evolution, studded with those Kirien Withers philosophy of unfailing, brilliant delightful special surprises. customer service. EMBRACE THE NEW The second is the ability to precisely Embracing new treatments and products determine the core requirements of their is an important part of any businesses key client base in both treatments and evolution as I mentioned prior. product, and absolutely nail the client’s But treatments and product change in a diagnosis, treatment and home care to spa, salon or clinic does not happen simply, achieve precise results they can rely on. generally speaking. The third is they keep it interesting, In my observation, businesses that are going beyond the basics with surprising and desirable retail, lifestyle and wellness support changing brands often, or keep adding new offers to the menu until it totally opportunities, exciting special promotions overwhelms both staff and clients, is a and gift voucher options that delight. recipe for disaster. And if there was a fourth quality, it 20 | SPA+CLINIC

All changes and additions must be so carefully considered. Change and additions are essential but they have to be just right 95 percent of the time, or they are a drain on the bottom line and the team’s wellbeing. Apart from that, client trust and loyalty can be lost by chopping and changing or offering wrong choices.

THINK OUTSIDE THE SQUARE Every service you offer clients should be an ideal experience – making it a ritual rather than a simple “get the job done” is key to success. Even an express treatment can be delivered with a style that sets it apart from the competitors. Thinking outside the square is essential to constantly retain clientele, and attract new clients, in the face of savvy competitors.

BUSINESS

Often new clients are drawn in by something you are doing that is different to everyone else, then it’s that superb service standard and excellence in execution that makes them stay. The salons and spas who do it well, I notice, stay steady with a brand they, and their clients trust, are circumspect with technology and really do their homework before they jump into large investments. But they are always on the lookout for exciting new offers that can be implemented easily for staff and that will deliver that “surprise and delight” factor. Gift voucher sales times provide ideal opportunity windows to get the right return on investment, as even simple additions take time and money to implement. So a great kick-off return is desirable. The revenue some spas and salons achieve in gift voucher sales at key times of the year is staggering. Most gift purchasers want to buy the recipient a special experience, not generally the core grooming or care services the recipient has all the time or is readily available. So new offers in the market are great to consider.

MAKE PEAK TIMES WORK ALL YEAR We are coming into peak season for the industry, so why not use this year’s gift voucher season as a time to try out new offerings. One brand that is perfect for special ritual style experiences, with gorgeous retail and very new to Australia, is Africology. As the name suggests, the brand hails from Africa featuring unique African botanicals. It’s South Africa’s leading spa and skincare brand featured in many of Africa’s most exclusive resorts and retreats, as well as individual spas and wellness centres. This exotic, lush, all-natural range meets all spa needs including anti-ageing formulas utilising Africa’s unique superactive ingredients, exquisite spa rituals, a full retail range including lifestyle products and excellent amenities. It was created by holistic therapist Renchia Droganis, renowned for her “nose”. She grew the range from humble beginnings, creating formulas to support her wellness-challenged clients, knowing the highly therapeutic benefits of Africa’s indigenous ingredients.

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BUSINESS

Another idea is being able to promote gift vouchers sales to capture the younger client. For instance, Australian organic skincare brand Vanessa Megan has natural acneic skin solutions which are gaining great testimonials. While results-based, the products are natural and luxurious so rituals targeting young skin can be packaged as an ideal gift voucher opportunity. Another hugely popular offering from Vanessa Megan is their world-first Cryo Facelift Ice Cube Treatment. Using the ageing preventative principles of cryotherapy, these ice-cold serum applications incorporate active ingredients, including the certified organic and scientifically proven antiageing extract narcissus tazetta bulb, and uber-hydrator hyaluronic acid, to help repair, regenerate, brighten and hydrate skin on face, neck and décolletage. The “ice cubes” are an ideal addition to any facial treatment, and are especially beneficial for clients who’ve just had therapies such as laser or peels, to soothe their skin and rapidly reduce redness and swelling. They also make a great retail offering for regular at-home use. There are six “ice cube trays” in each box. Clients are recommended to use them once or twice a week, putting the trays in the freezer before use. After taking out of the freezer, clients should remove the foil cover of an “ice cube”, press it into the muslin cloth provided and apply in a circular motion until it has melted. Lifting results are immediately visible and cumulative. Linda Meredith from the UK is also very new to Australia – again ideal for gift voucher implementation as an easy add-on

that may last you for years. Its only offer is luxurious “celebrity” facials incorporating some highly marketable options such as an oxygen infusion facial with immediate visible results and a “no-tox” relaxant solution that is highly revered internationally. Lastly I think it’s so important in these times that every salon, spa or clinic has an option for the client who is, or has been, challenged by the illnesses that are affecting way too many of us, or are extremely sensitive to ingredients. Also from Africa is the ultra-sensitive Esse solution based on probiotics. I have personally witnessed their live probiotic serum bring post-chemotherapy skin back to vital life in an incredibly short time. The speed with which the skin went from being like a translucent, dry, thin paper sheath to dewy integrity was quite remarkable. Esse therefore lets you market gift vouchers as suitable for the wellness-

Also from Africa is the ultra-sensitive Esse solution based on probiotics -especially beneficial for weakened skins

22 | SPA+CLINIC

challenged, as well as always having a safe solution and real contribution for any clients that may need support in this way, or have friends or family that do. With these type of add-in solutions, your trusted regular menu and brand/s that your clients trust are not challenged, but you can promote exciting gift sales, new experiences and retail opportunities for existing clientele, and can target new clients with fresh ideas. To my knowledge these brands would be pleased to be added into existing menus in “biteable” chunks with realistic add-in opening orders, making implementation easy and affordable. Here’s to a successful, prosperous 2018! Kirien Withers is the founder of numerous spa and salon industry initiatives over 27 years, including SPA+CLINIC magazine. Today she primarily consults to spas, salons, retreats and brands. She has a special interest in wellness, eco and women’s specialty areas. KIRIEN@SPAGURU.COM.AU

Vanessa Megan's world-first Cryo Facelift Ice Cube treatment for use both in-treatment and at home

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Award winning procedure Ideal for scarring / pigmentation/ uneven skin / extremely dry and aged skin Adaptable to individual clinic modalities Complimentary to invasive machines such as Needling and RF Potent percentage of Hyaluronic Acid and Active ingredients Ideal alternative to Peels / Laser / IPL Short turn around treatment time – 30 minutes Quick and easy procedure Instant visible results Zero downtime Innovative, Scientifically proven natural technology Client pre and post home treatment pack Thorough training and education provided

For more information or for a no obligation consultation please contact us on: info@vanssamegan.com or call 02 9568 5264 www.vanessamegan.com/fireandfrost

BUSINESS

MAKE YOUR WEBSITE A 24/7 SALES POWERHOUSE Is your salon, spa or clinic’s website working for you – literally working for you, as in bringing you a constant source of new enquiry?

business’s website needs to do far more than just “be there”, looking pretty (then again, maybe not!). It has likely cost a lot of money to build and maintain but if it’s not actually helping to make an enterprise thrive it’s just a waste of resources. “A good website is your spa or clinic’s 24/7 salesperson but it has to be found, as otherwise it is like having thousands of dollars of beautifully designed brochures sitting in the boot of a car,” says Rich Muir, director of Spa Fresh. “People are online all the time looking for salon, spa and clinic services. You might offer the greatest services in your area, any area, but is your website being found? If so, does it set you apart and make people want to choose you? “First impressions – notably the look and functionality of your website and how you market your services – are crucial.” In fact, research shows that 38 percent of people will stop engaging with a website if the content/layout is unattractive. Spa Fresh specialises in building stunning websites for the aesthetics industry - the company has designed for more than 300 health, beauty and wellness businesses - and offers varying levels of marketing products and advice built into tiered packages to suit a wide range of budgets with its Sassy Web Package System. It prides itself on creating websites that are profit-generating assets as opposed to “static” platforms that drain funds. Whatever your budget, the packages are highly affordable for the scope of services provided, including custom-designed websites, search engine optimisation, Google Adwords, mobile responsive, online gift vouchers, graphic design promotions, website hosting, newsletter facility, monthly maintenance and ongoing support. From just requiring a great website to showcase your services to wanting to fill empty chairs/beds in your calendar, Spa Fresh has packages to suit all online requirements. “We’ve gone from charging our clients $3500 + GST on average for a website (not including hosting, domains, updates nor online marketing) to prices starting from just $37 + GST per month. “We truly believe they are the most cost-effective way for you to get online, get more clients, and save time and money. 24 | SPA+CLINIC

“Plus, if you want to fill the empty appointments in your calendar, we even have Web Marketing Packs that are actually guaranteed to get more clients. “This is called The Platinum Package and Spa Fresh offers a 100 percent money back guarantee on this online marketing system– that’s how confident we are it will work. “To qualify for the Platinum Package we first offer a simple, no-cost service that will share with you how many people are searching for services like yours in your area and what the `real’ opportunities are to get more clients. We are also the first to say if there is no opportunity. We want to empower businesses to make smart, informed decisions and, even more, to help them boost their client base. “The monthly packages are broken up into two sections; one for the salon or spa that just wants a website, and the other for those who want to attract more customers. “Basically, you can get $5000 worth of services each year for a fraction of the cost. This empowers you to invest more money into growing your business.” Rich says customers can switch between packs. “We offer great versatility with our packages and many of our clients will start on one and then decide they want to test, say, Google Adwords for a month – with our Traffic Pack they can, and if it doesn’t work for their business we simply go back to the web package. “That way if you want to test some marketing to get more clients you can do so without having to spend thousands of dollars. It’s simply a matter of letting us know before your next payment is scheduled. “And you can cancel at any time. No catch. If you wish to cancel your package within 12 months and take the website to another web host then you simply pay us an agreed amount (depending on the package) and you can keep the website. But we obviously work hard to ensure this does not happen! Especially with the fact that every 24 months you are entitled to a brand new website design for just $199 + GST. “Everything we do is designed to make your life easier, a one stop, supportive platform for salons, spas and clinics to look and perform their best online.” SPAFRESH.COM.AU

Be at the forefront In order to not just survive but thrive in this industry, cutting edge business growth strategies are essential

Attend this practical symposium to learn how to: • Unlock the secrets to selecting the most effective marketing strategies for the growth and promotion of your brand • Transform the quality of your patient experience to become competitive, stay in the game and win market share • Efficient practice management: how to simplify systems and facilitate smooth processes within your aesthetics business • Develop the business improvement potential of your data • Utilise technology more effectively to accelerate revenue growth • Safeguard your business from brand damage risk by potential cyber security and marketing compliance breaches This thought leadership program is developed for senior practitioners involved in aesthetic medicine (surgical and nonsurgical),c osmetic surgeries, cosmetic dentistry, cosmetics clinics, laser clinics and day spas. To register visit AKOLADE.COM.AU

he cosmetic enhancement industry in Australia is booming – estimates suggest it’s now a $1 billion a year business. However, when practitioners spend their days helping patients look and feel their best, staying up to date on effective business growth strategies can be difficult. The inaugural Cosmetics Practitioners Business Summit has been designed for practitioners of appearance medicine, both surgical and non-surgical, to meet their learning needs related to business strategy and growth. It is being held at The Grace Hotel, 77 York St, Sydney on November 29-30. Post-conference workshops are being held on December 1. Hear from leading cosmetics practitioners on how they successfully grow their businesses by implementing and improving their various business models that focus on effective marketing strategies, customer experience and brand image. This practical thought leaders’ summit will you to assess where you are at now, where you want to go and how to get there.

Get More Clients To Your Spa Or Clinic - Guaranteed Websites and online marketing for spas, salons and clinics that work. “Thanks we had 23 new clients last month” Indulgences Day Spa Do you want more clients to your spa or clinic? What if you were actually guaranteed to make more money then you spend with your marketing? Well the good news is that is exactly what Spa Fresh do for Clinics & Spas just like yours, and after 9 years in the industry and over 300 + website packages we know what works and what doesn’t. “Highly recommended, we just recently ﬁnished our salon's website. Working with Spa Fresh was stress free, well organised and such a professional experience :) thank you guys for our awesome website” A. Varga

SPA & Clinic Promotion: Mention this add and get a FREE month of online marketing (SEO, search engine optimisation) valued at $325 + GST with every new web package GUARANTEED Marketing Packages: Speak to us about our guaranteed marketing packages and how we can get you more clients

www.SpaFresh.com.au

Tel: 1800 908 834

Custom Design Websites From Just $67 + GST per month

“What ever you are doing is working as last month we had over 20 new clients.” B. L. Stubbins

THE RIGHT FIT

Firm-n-Fold powerlift table

As an employer you have a duty of care for the health and safety of your employees in terms of the furniture and equipment you supply. By Jenni Gilbert.

ccupational Health and Safety (OH&S) policies and procedures help to prevent accidents, injuries and illnesses among staff and clients alike, and an ergonomically correct environment in a salon, spa or clinic is essential to this. According to Safe Work Australia, the total economic cost of work-related injuries and illnesses is estimated to be $60 billion, with research showing that lower back pain is the world’s most common work-related disability. Ergonomics aim to create safe, comfortable and productive workspaces by bringing human abilities and limitations into the design of a workspace, including the individual’s body size, strength, skill, speed, sensory abilities (vision, hearing), and even attitudes. Having the right equipment available to enable people to do their job correctly helps ensure their health and safety at work.

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Firm-n-Fold’s new saddle backrest stool

Firm-n-Fold’s new trolley

BUSINESS

SUPPLY • PROCURE • CONSULT

Spa Vision’s Euro Icon Treatment Table from Oakworks

It’s all well and good to have fabulous state-of-the-art furniture/equipment but if it’s not conducive to staff wellbeing and client comfort you could be in for a lot of trouble. Even more, having inferior furniture/equipment because it's cheap or you can’t afford to replace it could cost you big time in many ways. This includes everything from the furniture used by front desk reception staff to beds, chairs and tables in treatment rooms. “The wrong size treatment table can wreak havoc with body mechanics,” says Leesa Yaldwyn, Operations Manager of Firm.n.Fold, Australia’s principal provider of massage equipment for more than 30 years. “Where you have a clinic with multiple therapists using the same room, an adjustable height table is a must. “Performing treatments on a table that is too high reduces the leverage therapists have, so back, hands, arms and neck are forced to work harder and be more prone to injury. A table too low will cause backache and may lead to musculoskeletal problems. “Stools are also a clinic staple. Having one with a gas lift is obvious to suit different users and the treatments they are performing. “The seat is also important. Plain round ones are commonplace but there are other designs out there like the saddle, saddle with backrest and contour backrest that provide better support and promote good posture. “An equipment trolley keeps all the essentials to hand and at the right height, reducing the need to carry things from room to room and bending over to retrieve items throughout the course of a treatment.” Says Neil Owen, Director of Spa Vision Australia: “Treatment tables not only need to look good as the main piece of furniture in the treatment room, they have to deliver optimum comfort for both client and therapist. “If you or your therapists are performing several treatments a day, your treatment table needs to be fully adjustable with the touch of a button. “Clients, as we know, come in various shapes and sizes and having a non-adjustable table could lead to not only to the poor delivery of treatments but also fatigue and potential injury to the therapist. “The cost of absenteeism can be avoided by investing in good quality equipment that will last over many years, keeping both client and therapist happy.” Spa Vision, based in the UK, is a leading global provider of furniture and equipment for the spa, health, beauty and wellness industries. SPAVISION.COM; FIRM-N-FOLD.COM.AU

TREATMENT TABLES

MANICURE

RELAXATION

PEDICURE

WELLBEING

THERMAL ROOMS

Contact us to discuss how we can collaborate and add value to your new or existing business at: +61 (0) 418 951 353 info@spavision.com

COMPLETE SOLUTIONS FOR SPA, BEAUTY & WELLNESS

www.spavision.com

IT AIN’T ALWAYS OVER WHEN IT’S OVER Managing post-employment restraints is essential to the future of your business, especially when a former staffer has left on bad terms. By Michelle Blewett*.

ot every termination of employment ends on good terms, with a farewell lunch and card full of best wishes for the future. Employees may leave an organisation disgruntled or, alternatively, full of ambition to “make it” with another employer by profiting from your trade secrets, soliciting your clients or capitalising on inventions created during the course of their employment with you. Intellectual property and confidential information are among a company’s most valuable assets. This is why, when it comes to employees, it is important to be on guard against potential breaches of post-employment restraints which can be incredibly damaging to your business. Michelle Blewett, from HR specialists Workforce Guardian, reports:

GENERAL PRINCIPLES The law presumes that competition is good and, accordingly, that restraints 28 | SPA+CLINIC

on competition are bad. This means that all restraints on competition are unlawful except to the extent that they are reasonable. A restraint on competition must not be contrary to the public interest. Notwithstanding these principles, any and all employees may be bound by post-employment restraints in their employment contracts. Restraints commonly found in employment contracts usually set out that: • Confidential information should not be stolen • Employees and contractors should not be poached • Clients, customers and suppliers should not be poached • Employees should not work for a competitor or otherwise compete with their employer However, such restraints must be carefully drafted to ensure that they are “reasonable”. Reasonableness is assessed against three criteria:

• That there is a genuine business interest that must be protected by a restraint of trade • That the timeframe during which the restraint applies is reasonable • That the geographical reach of the restraint is reasonable An employer should not generally have trouble enforcing the first three restraints in the courts. However, enforcing the fourth can prove more difficult, as courts are reluctant to hold that restraining employees from participating in the free labour market and gaining alternative employment is in the public interest. Nevertheless, any restraints can be enforced to the extent that it is reasonable, given the employee’s role within the business, his or her seniority, and possession of confidential information. Generally speaking, the more senior the employee’s role, and the more possession of confidential information they have, the longer that a restraint may be enforced.

BUSINESS

Finally, it is important to note that courts will only protect confidential information provided it is treated as, and is in fact, secret and confidential. Courts will not protect material that is not proprietary or capable of being described as confidential. However, truly confidential information can be protected indefinitely, or until by other lawful means it is released into the public domain.

AUSTRALIA’S PRINCIPAL PROVIDER OF MASSAGE EQUIPMENT

THINK LIST Ensure that your employment contracts contain post-employment restraint clauses that cover the four categories of restraint outlined above. Further, ensure that such clauses are reasonable, considering the role that the contract is for. Ensure that such post-employment restraint clauses identify the legitimate business interest that must be protected. This interest should only be protected for the timeframe that it would take your business to redress any potential disadvantage arising from an employee breaching the restraint. Ensure that confidential information is treated as such within the business. Documents should be marked as “Commercial in Confidence”, “Highly Sensitive”, or “Confidential” where necessary. Include a restraint clause in sale agreements for employee shares. Uphold your side of the bargain – ensure that you have not repudiated the employment contract at any time, so that you are able to enforce the restraint if necessary. Remind employees who you perceive to be at risk of breaching their postemployment restraints of their obligations. This could be done when you accept their resignation, or in the case of a termination, in the termination letter. Ensure data security processes are in place. Access to the company’s confidential information should be cut off immediately upon termination. If at all possible, monitor employee’s access to company data throughout the notice period and if necessary, be on guard for hacking activity for a reasonable period (we recommend at least 90 days) after the termination. * Michelle Blewett is from Workforce Guardian, Australia’s leading HR and employment relations service for employers. It offers a template anti-harassment policy, and its HR Consultants can provide verbal and written advice on these issues, as well as workplace investigation services if needed. Call 1300 659 563.

Much more than just massage tables, our range includes, treatment and spa tables, table covers, massage chairs, massage stones, oils, balms and lotions, bolsters and cushions, massage tools and clinic accessories. Vist our website for our special offers every month or sign up for our newsletter and have them delivered direct to your inbox.

www.firm-n-fold.com.au Brisbane . Melbourne . Sydney . Gold Coast Freecall 1800 640 524

BUSINESS

YOU GET WHAT YOU

GIVE

Whether it’s by supporting a charity or cause, donating time or volunteering your skills or services to those deserving, acts of “giving back” have extensive benefits for a business well beyond the obvious cause.

oney can’t buy happiness … unless you spend it on others. Well, that’s according to numerous studies that have shown giving to other people or to charity/causes will put a much bigger smile on your face than spending on yourself. Indeed, did you know that when you donate your time, expertise or money, your brain acts in a similar way to when you are having sex or eating chocolate? “Thanks to MRI technology, researchers are able to see brain activity when certain acts are taken and in a study on charitable giving when people donated to a worthy cause, the midbrain region of the brain lit up,” says American charity strategist, professor and writer Brady Josephson. “This is the area of the brain that is responsible for our cravings (food and sex) and pleasure rewards, showing the link between charitable giving and pleasure.” Thus, in a way, we are actually being both selfish and selfless by giving to others. Businesses and brands everywhere have the resources and reach to provide a major positive impact in their communities and beyond. Whether it’s by supporting a charity, getting involved in an eco initiative, volunteering services or teaching skills to those deserving, sponsoring an event that will benefit a worthwhile cause – the list goes on – participating in acts of “giving back” has extensive benefits for a business well beyond the obvious cause. A philanthropically-minded business or brand (and this doesn’t necessarily mean throwing wads of cash around) will reap benefits from this mindset, including positive PR, high employee morale/ engagement and improved connections — all areas that can aid in long-term profits. The gestures do not have to be gigantic, but when the heart is in the right place, abundance follows. One prominent benefit of a business giving back is the response from its employees. Typically, if they see that their employer is committed to good works, they will gain more respect for them. A work environment with a highly respected leader results in more communication and efficiency, since morale is likelier to be improved in a work environment where the leader is trusted and respected. 30 | SPA+CLINIC

Similarly, if an employer gives their employees an opportunity to give back, they will feel more fulfilled in their work. According to business philanthropy consultant Erin Giles, the ability to volunteer provides employees with leadership opportunities that can increase staff performance and provide a better sense of fulfillment. People love feel-good stories, so it’s easier for a business to use giving back as an incentive to appear in news outlets positively, especially if it’s a public gesture like sponsoring a local charitable event or holding a free workshop for the underprivileged. Positive news has a tendency of being shared rampantly on social media, which on a local Facebook group can be a fantastic way for a business to gain exposure in addition to becoming a well-respected presence in the community, resulting in more clients, profits and overall connections. Philanthropy can be a wonderful gateway into a network of professionals and leads alike that can help elevate a business from obscurity to prolific success. Similarly, giving to their local community can provide a business with connections to local leaders who can rapidly make a business the local “go-to” for that specific niche with their endorsement. Charitable giving in Australia has grown significantly in the last two years, buoyed by reduced levels of consumer anxiety, according to recent research by National Australia Bank. The NAB’s bi-annual Charitable Giving Index showed overall giving to charity grew by 6.5 per cent over the year to February 2016, up from just 2.4 per cent a year earlier. The Giving Index showed that the average donation size across all charities actually grew by $12 to $348 per donor, with average annual donation size increasing in all states except Western Australia, and all age groups except 15 to 24-year-olds.

There are all sorts of ways, big and small, to give back. It might be backing a cause in your local community or supporting a brand you stock with their philanthropic, environmental or social awareness campaigns. SPA+CLINIC takes a look at two shining examples:

The ultimate guest experience Treat your guests to a seamless and

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icola Le Lievre, owner of two In Therapy salons in Brisbane, is passionate about supporting causes through her business, in particular the RSPCA Cupcake Day for animal welfare, as well as breast cancer fund-raising awareness (eg. Pink Lipstick Day). “I strongly believe that every business has a responsibility to give back to the community who supports them,” says Nicola. “I chose Cupcake Day because I am passionately anti-cruelty. Animals cannot speak for themselves –I want to be a voice for them. “My team really gets behind it and become very excited about making it a great event, and getting our customers just as enthused." Nicola recently featured in the Success Stories video series, created by Shortcuts Software to inspire other business owners who want to contribute to a greater cause. Says Fleur Murphy, Senior Marketing Manager at Shortcuts: “Working so closely with Nicola, we were inspired by her approach to fundraising and giving back to the community. “For Nicola, events such as Cupcake Day are so much more than an excuse to indulge in sweet treats – fundraising has become a way of life, and it’s also core to her business strategy. “One of the most important aspects of running a fundraiser is getting the word out to the local community and encouraging clients to attend. Social media events are one of the simplest ways to achieve this. “Email campaigns that stand out are also essential to promoting a fundraiser. Using Shortcuts’ Set and Forget Marketing feature, Nicola is able to quickly and easily create eye-catching emails to help attract attendees. “Nicola’s events are always a crowd-pleaser, and because she only chooses causes that she is completely passionate about, her energy and enthusiasm is infectious. It’s been an absolute pleasure working with Nicola to capture her story on film.” To watch Nicola’s Success Story visit SHORTCUTS.COM.AU/INTHERAPY

VISUAL TREATMENT RECORDS

MOBILE FORMS AND WAIVERS

CONTRAINDICATIONS

ONLINE BOOKING

SOCIAL MEDIA INTEGRATION

24/7 HELPDESK

Nicola La Lievre

1300 667 374 www.shortcuts.com.au/clinicsoftware

BUSINESS

Sisters doing it for each other How a growing collective of beauty therapists who believe in wellness for all women are creating a brighter future for vulnerable girls in Cambodia.

estow Beauty, a wellness company from New Zealand attracting attention for their skin nutrition products, recipes and rituals, has launched the charitable arm of their business, The Bestow Sisterhood, in Australia. The Bestow Sisterhood is a collective of beauty therapists and skincare clinics throughout Australasia who are changing the lives of vulnerable girls in Cambodia by sponsoring their education. Launched in New Zealand in April, the Bestow Sisterhood is a partnership between Bestow Beauty founder Janine Tait and her sister, Denise Arnold, who founded the Cambodia Charitable Trust in 2008 after hearing about Cambodian children being rented out for sex by the week. Over the last 10 years Denise has changed Salons can also become part of the Bestow Sisterhood by stocking and selling Generositea – the official Bestow Sisterhood tea from The Bestow Organic Herbal Tea range

32 | SPA+CLINIC

Through the Bestow Sisterhood, salons sponsor a vulnerable Cambodian girl’s education for $40 a month, which radically changes the life of that little girl.

the future for thousands of vulnerable Cambodian children by transforming schools and ensuring the poorest children are sponsored to attend. “Education is the greatest hope for fighting poverty and slavery, especially education of girls,” says Janine. Girls who don’t go to school are vulnerable to sex traffickers or can end up married and bearing children long before their bodies are developed enough to cope with delivering a baby. Through the Bestow Sisterhood, salons sponsor a girl’s education for $40 a month, which radically changes the life of that little girl. “My whole career has been about women and wellness,” says Janine Tait of founding The Bestow Sisterhood. “But wellness ultimately needs to take us beyond ourselves. The Bestow Sisterhood is about women helping women; offering wellbeing to young girls in Cambodia who don’t have the privileges we have.” Over 50 Cambodian girls have been sponsored by beauty therapists and skincare clinics since the launch of the Bestow Sisterhood this year: “We think of them as our little sisters,” says Janine. " Janine is inviting skincare clinics all over New Zealand and Australia to join the

The big sisters: Robyn Fairweather, operations manager Bestow Beauty (left), Denise Arnold, founder of Cambodia Charitable Trust, and Janine Tait, founder of Bestow Beauty

Bestow Sisterhood by sponsoring a little Cambodian sister for $40 per month. Sponsorship provides her with a school uniform and essential school stationery, access to health checks, food for her family, and a monthly contribution to family living costs to cover the loss of the child’s wage. Salons can also become part of the Bestow Sisterhood by stocking and selling Generositea – the official Bestow Sisterhood tea from the Bestow Organic Herbal Tea Range. This beautiful rose-coloured tea is an organic blend of lemongrass, peppermint, hibiscus, cinnamon and cardamom. All Bestow profits from the sale of Generositea go to support the work of the Cambodia Charitable Trust. BESTOWBEAUTY.COM.AU/SPONSOR-A-GIRL

NEW & IMPROVED

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EMPOWERED RETINOL TECHNOLOGY The Ultra A Skin Perfecting Range features our exclusive Ultra-Retiâ&#x201E;˘ advanced retinol stabilisation and delivery technology to significantly plump and visibly diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Available at selected clinics and medi-spas nationwide. For more information about Ultraceuticals and this product range please contact us toll free on 1800 355 890 or advice@ultraceuticals.com.au. www.ultraceuticals.com.au.

BUSINESS

TURN YOUR PASSION

INTO PROFIT Philip Luque, Director of Artistry Global and Domestic Senior educator for Youngblood Minerals Cosmetics, presented the Look and Learn Mineral Masterclass, where he demonstrated the The Art of Youthful Makeup for Mature Skin

After showcasing its 10 brands over seven stands at Beauty Expo Australia in August, Professional Beauty Solutions hosted product and technique education with Passion to Profits 3.0 Masterclass – a day designed to help salon owners grow their business and skills

assion to Profits 3.0 was a jam-packed day of education, held at Sydney’s International Convention Centre, Darling Harbour, on August 28. Professional Beauty Solutions flew in experts from the US from two of the most innovative skincare and mineral makeup brands in the industry: Philip Luque, Director of Artistry Global and Domestic Senior educator for Youngblood Minerals Cosmetics, and Dawn Clifford, Senior Director of Education for Image Skincare. The day kicked off with a Youngblood Look and Learn Mineral Masterclass from Philip Luque, where he demonstrated the The Art of Youthful Makeup for Mature Skin. In this class, Philip highlighted the fact that mature skin has characteristics and needs that other skin does not, therefore the products you use when working with mature skin need to be adjusted to ensure skin is left glowing, without emphasising fine lines. During the second half of the class, Philip showcased another beautiful makeup trend, Draping – The New Contouring. Similar to contouring, draping follows the natural bone structure to define, sculpt and create a flawless cheekbone. However, cream blush is used (in two different shades) to achieve a softer, more natural look without the standard brown tones used in classic contouring. Guests then joined Image Skincare’s Dawn Clifford for an afternoon of skin peel demonstrations and in-depth training on the newest ingredients and delivery systems that help take Image Skincare’s products and treatments to the next level.

34 | SPA+CLINIC

Before and after – Philip Luque’s design for mature women

They were also treated to a sneak peek of Image MD – a new range that incorporates cutting edge ingredients and delivery systems and utilises the latest advancements in skincare technology. Unlike other skincare programs, this collection can be used as a daily, ongoing skincare protocol and will be launching early 2018 in Australia. PROBEAUTYSOLUTIONS.COM.AU

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new Luxury

NEW LUXURY PROMOTION

The

It’s no longer lusting after expensive name labels. It’s beyond bling. Luxury has taken on a new meaning for today’s consumer, who seeks a different dimension of indulgence. Concepts such as authenticity, uniqueness, eco-consciousness, sustainability, altruism, natural and ethically-sourced ingredients and awareness of what is harmful to the body and the world around us – etcetera – all come into play. And of course it must provide great delight, or why else would it be luxurious? SPA+CLINIC speaks to brands that personify The New Luxury.

s pa a n d cl i n i c.co m.a u | 37

Ancient Wisdom

FOR MODERN SKINCARE The ancient Indian healing philosophy has inspired some awesome skincare for discerning contemporary consumers

ndia’s traditional form of healing, Ayurveda – some 5,500 years old – is fast gaining popularity among Westerners, like yoga before it. We can thank the likes of celebrated wellness guru Deepak Chopra, Oprah and Hollywood hipstars (sic) for shining the broader light on the modality, but the truth is Australians have always been pretty keen to embrace the “out there” before it becomes a recognised “trend”. Ayurveda, or Ayurveda-inspired aesthetics and wellness treatments are spawning a new avenue of potential for 38 | SPA+CLINIC

contemporary aesthetics, wellness and cosmetic medical practitioners. It’s user-friendly and is for everyone, and it’s very likely you’re already intuitively practising some of it. It is also inspiring some awesome skincare, such as Australia’s AWE Cosmeceuticals. “We do not claim to be a traditional Ayurvedic brand but we are inspired by ancient Indian medicine,” says Melbournebased creator Rebecca Powne. “AWE is all about encompassing the natural philosophies of Ayurveda and combining them with modern scientific

findings, delivering high quality skincare designed to achieve visible results, with a natural ethos. “I think we differ from other Ayurvedic skincare brands in that we are focused on cosmeceutical ingredients and active delivery systems. “Our ingredients are sourced both locally and globally. Of greatest importance is the high quality raw materials we source and sustainable natural ingredients. "Over the past 10 years, I have noticed people becoming much more aware of Ayurveda.

NEW LUXURY PROMOTION

“There have always been many Ayurvedic ingredients used in skincare, however they were not attributed to Ayurveda; for example: licorice, gotu kola, aloe vera, honey, coconut oil, boswellia serrata (Indian frankincense). “I believe Ayurveda is gaining popularity in Australia as a modality, mainly due to much more being written about it, interest in ancient traditions such as oil pulling, and a desire for people to lead a more natural and healthy lifestyle. “Ayurveda is very much about the person as a whole, therefore there is a great deal of information on daily and seasonal rituals that help maintain the body’s equilibrium.”

THE ALL-IMPORTANT DOSHAS Ayurveda holds an elemental view of the universe and believes people are made up of various combinations of these elements. The five elements are Air, Ether, Fire, Earth and Water. They form the three biological humours of Ayurveda called doshas: Vata, Pitta and Kapha. • Vata is composed of air and ether • Pitta is composed of fire • Kapha is composed of earth and water The dominance of a particular dosha determines certain physical, mental and emotional characteristics, and importantly may predetermine potential health risks. All three doshas are present in every cell of the body. However, each dosha has an area of dominance, which is their site of origin: Vata primarily resides in the colon; characterised by qualities such as light (weight), dry, rough, moving, subtle. [Vata types] are tall and thin or petite, have dry skin and nails, are generally thin and break easily, are adaptable. When unbalanced, Vatas can be anxious, worried, talk very

fast, tire easily, can have very thin, dry skin, and suffer from gas, constipation, bone problems or arthritis. Vata types need to keep warm, eat nourishing food and maintain a stress-free environment. They will feel the cold and therefore love a hot bath! Just be careful it is not too hot or this will be detrimental to Vata’s already dry and thin skin. Use essential oils with sweet aromas such as rose, yang slang and lavender. Pitta resides in the small intestine: slightly oily, hot, light, odorous, liquid. Warm, clear, penetrating thoughts, passionate, intelligent, athletic, moderate, muscular build. When unbalanced, Pittas can be hot-tempered, impatient, too critical. Physically they may develop health issues such as ulcers, infections, rashes, acne, eye problems or high blood pressure. Pittas need cooling. They will generally be the person who feels warm, so need to listen to this and avoid causing increase in temperature; have a cool/warm shower and apply a calming lotion for a sensitive skin type. Kapha resides in the stomach: oily, cold, heavy, slow, smooth, slimy, and static. Characteristics are being loyal, calm, big-boned, with a strong, deep, clear voice. When unnbalanced: Lethargic, sentimental, too attached, overweight, water retention, bronchitis.

SKINCARE TIPS In Ayurveda, like exacerbates like. Therefore: Vata dominance types will need a heavy, warm diet, maintain practice of gentle exercise and ensure they use oils and unctuous products due to the dry nature of their skin. Because Vata skin is typically dry and thin, any skincare cosmeceuticals used should have a focus on moisture and making the skin plumper.

Look out for: Coconut oil, almond oil, papaya leaf extract, and saffron extract as these will all contribute towards creating a harmonious Vata balance for skin. Vata types should also invest in anti-ageing actives, as skin ageing can occur earlier with this skin type. Pitta dominance is comprised of fire and needs cooling. These skins tend to flare up, both mentally and physically. They require cooling elements. Their diet should be based on raw and cold foods and avoiding spicy food. Compatible ingredients in cosmeceutical skincare products to look out for include aloe vera, gotu kola, sunflower oil, turmeric, sandalwood and lavender. Kapha dominance requires less fat in the diet, lighter food options and more vigorous exercise. Kapha is prone to oiliness and congestion and so should place a greater emphasis on cleansing and exfoliation than on moisturising, as skin is likely to have excessive oil already. Kapha feels the cold and will like the heat of a shower, however, not too hot! Due to the oilier nature of their skin type a lighter oil, such as coconut Oil is recommended for kapha. Body brushing is also very beneficial for the more sluggish nature of kapha. Ingredients to keep an eye out for include turmeric, alamaki (Indian gooseberry) and red sandalwood. AWECOSMECEUTICALS.COM.AU

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NEW LUXURY PROMOTION

NAILING

Indulgence

Made with love and not mass produced, Jessica Cosmetics embodies the new luxe ethos of no nasties, protecting the welfare of animals and the environment

hen Rose Bolam and her daughter Chantelle opened their salon Artfully Polished Beauty in Newcastle, NSW, in 2003 they offered all the traditional treatments such as facials, waxing, and the rest of the standard salon menu. “Our business grew steadily by word of mouth recommendation, lots of hard work and offering high quality, reliable service – no gimmicks,” Rose, director of Jessica Cosmetics Australia, recalls. "Because of the industry shift over the years from salons offering a range of general services towards a more specialised approach, we realised we needed a point of difference that would make our salon stand out from the rest. “Being in the centre of the city, there is no shortage of salons competing for the available trade so we knew we had to change to remain competitive and be truly successful. “Mother and daughter took a trip to Los

40 | SPA+CLINIC

Angeles in May 2012 and studied with the guru of the natural nail, Jessica Vartoughian, founder of Jessica Cosmetics, at her Natural Nail Clinic on Sunset Boulevard. “We felt that her knowledge and reputation would be an inspiration and also provide us with a huge boost to our skills in natural nail care,” says Rose. “The Jessica philosophy is simple: Treat nails like we treat our skin and no nails are alike. “The Jessica System Master Class was run over a week of intensive training and included the theory of natural nail care along with plenty of practise to ensure our application was faultless. Jessica was constantly assessing our skills and offering her guidance when needed. “Jessica is regarded around the world as a luxury brand because it is high quality and unique colour palette, colours influenced by the fashion house/trends of Europe, all our polishes work alongside

Jessica exceptional treatment system, the polishes are ecofriendly and 7free as well as cruelty free, and has elegant packaging “It is a boutique brand as it is not mass produced, and is sold to high-end beauty spas/resorts and selected salons.” Bringing their wealth of knowledge home from LA, Rose and Chantelle started to educate their existing clients on the benefits of using the Jessica brand. “Jessica is a complete system that cultivates natural nails, bringing them back to health so they will grow long and strong. That means there is no need to resort to damaging acrylics. “This is where our story really began and we have never looked back.” JESSICACOSMETICS.COM.AU

Austral ia n NATIVE BRILLIANCE

Established in Melbourne in 1995, Uspa was born to create a uniquely Australian holistic spa journey. It has been reborn in 2017 to be even more active, on-trend and innovative and deliver sublime experiences as well as results

uilding on its proud heritage, Uspa has been meticulously evolving and updating it formulas and presentations to delight and inspire both brand partners and clients, relaunching in 2017 to the forefront of luxe Australian skincare. The proven results of Uspa skincare have been enhanced by its team of inhouse chemists with a focus on delivering a concise range that is even more active, on-trend and innovative. Free from sulphates, parabens, mineral oils, synthetic colours and synthetic fragrances, Uspa is 100 percent Australian made and proud to be a cruelty-free brand. The range’s luxurious new packaging reflects the premium brand positioning with better protected natural ingredients prolonging shelf-life and strong, consistent branding that stands out on shelves. Uspa has kept the clear packaging and signature Uspa bottle shape that showcases the beautiful colours and textures of products. All packaging is recyclable and sourced with the customer in mind for ease of use and product integrity. Uspa products are forged from a place of uncommon riches, where their provenance is at the heart of each product and everything they do as a brand. “The performance of the USPA products is a testament to our long relationship with the brand of 16 years,” says the Body Freedom clinic in South Melbourne.

“We and our customers love the divine aromas and textures, that are botanical and Australian made.” Uspa’s brand partners of many years have deep connections to the heritage of the brand and the performance of the product, which has been retained and built upon throughout the relaunch evolution. While remaining true to its core philosophy, the rationalised range delivers the latest and most respected active botanicals and pure essential oils (drawing on Australian native ingredients) with exceptionally beautiful aromas and textures. The formulations have been updated to take advantage of new technologies, allowing even more innovative and greener formulations. Its signature treatment rituals are inspired by Australia and many cultures abroad. Guided breath and subtle energy calms, energises, soothes and balances according to the rhythms of nature. Product ingredients have long been used by local indigenous people for their health benefits in food. Recent advancements on these powerhouse ingredients have proved to be particularly beneficial for anti-ageing, notably: Lilly Pilly (Syzygium Luehmanii): Indigenous Australians traditionally used Lilly Pilly for its strong fruit acids which provide gentle exfoliation for brighter and regenerated skin. Naturally high levels of

vitamin C provide anti-ageing benefits. Lilly Pilly extract is found in the Rejuvenating Micro-Exfoliant. Caviar Lime (Microcitrus Australasica): A natural source of AHAs, the native Australian Caviar Lime provides gentle exfoliation for a smoother, brighter and more even skin complexion. It is found in the Smoothing AHA Serum and Age Defying Hand Cream. Plum Harvest (Terminalia Ferdinandiana, Podocarpus Elatus and Pleiogynium Timoriense): A nourishing blend of indigenous Australian super fruits of Kakadu, Illawarra and Burdekin Plums have proven clinical results to instantly hydrate skin and provide long term skin hydration. Strong antioxidants help to protect skin from pollution and everyday stresses to fight the appearance of aging. Plum Harvest is found in the Age Defying Moisturiser. USPA.COM.AU

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NEW LUXURY PROMOTION

SWEET SMELL OF

Success

Many conventional deodorants are packed with potentially health hazardous chemicals. Introducing a toxin-free, organic, no-sweat alternative

ersonal care products – think moisturiser and body lotion, shampoo and conditioner, nail products, soap, toothpaste and deodorant – are a direct pathway of exposure to toxic chemicals. In the case of deodorant, its ingredients enter via the axillary lymph node under the arms. The active ingredient in most conventional antiperspirants is aluminium salts, added to artificially block sweat glands and inhibit perspiration. The body controls temperature and excretes toxins through perspiration and so, by blocking sweat glands, our bodies are absorbing chemicals such as triclosan, phthalates and parabens in these conventional deodorants. Once absorbed they may not all be metabolised and, over time, can leave a build-up of harmful chemicals in the body. Queensland mum of two Verity Wallace officially launched her own toxin-free, organic body care brand Nádúrtha and its first product - Free-ODORANT - in July. “I started making the deodorant in 2016 because I want to contribute to the shift toward using natural and organic, and provide consumers with an eco-conscious and healthy alternative to conventional products,” says Verity. “After being a stay at home mum for eight years, when my second child started school I wanted to go back to work but wanted to do something that allowed me to use my creativity. I also wanted to be my own boss. “As I was already making my own skincare I decided I’d choose one product 42 | SPA+CLINIC

to sell. I chose deodorant as I knew this was a type of product a lot of people were having difficulty finding that a) worked and b) didn’t irritate their skin. “It took around 12 months to refine my formulation, which was tested by family and friends along the way.” Verity says she has always lived a healthy lifestyle “but in terms of skincare I was not really aware of the potential health risks until I became pregnant with my first child. “I started reading a lot of material on how your health, coupled with environmental factors, can ultimately affect the health of your child. I turned my attention to the household cleaning and skincare products I had in my home and started using plant-based, natural products. And the ethos Verity has instilled at Nádúrtha is that what we put on our skin should be as healthy as the food we eat. “Our handcrafted ecoluxe déodorant crème sticks are formulated with a unique blend of the highest quality natural, organic and toxinfree food-grade ingredients,” she says. “We want our products to make people feel good, but also to feel good about using them. We’re committed to being ecoconscious and source our ingredients from Australian suppliers who share the same commitment to using natural, sustainable and ethical ingredients. “Our suppliers are all Cruelty Free Accredited and where applicable, ingredients are Certified Organic and Fair Trade. “The ingredients we have chosen have undergone minimal processing with no

toxic chemicals, thus retaining as much of their natural benefits as possible. “We’re not going to give you a long list of nasties our déodorant doesn’t contain – because it is toxin-free.” The neutralising underarm odour formulation is pH balanced, non-irritating and suitable for use during pregnancy and for pre-teens. “Our scents are unisex-y – just the packaging is different,” says Verity. “Having been produced in the subtropical central Queensland climate [in Tannum Sands, a small coastal town] we know that it works and is suited to the hot and humid Australian weather.” NADURTHA.COM.AU

Cl ea n Sk in

CLEAN LIVING – PURE AND SIMPLE Creator and director of Australian eco-luxe skincare brand MUSQ, Emma Reid, explains the passion behind her mission

’ve created this range of chemical-free makeup and skincare products with one guiding philosophy: Keep it clean, kind and simple. At MUSQ we care about our planet, and we care about people’s skin. This is why we choose to put quality before profits, and why we never use any nasty chemicals or toxic preservatives. It’s about choosing the best ingredients for skin, and taking care of the world around us. Nature makes things simple, and we like to keep it that way. Beautiful skin shouldn’t be complicated. Created in Australia, MUSQ products are inspired and derived from the land we live on, and we try to include native Australian ingredients in our products whenever we can. I am passionate about using sustainable products and ingredients that are natural, luxury and highly effective, which provide results whilst remaining good for the planet. We never test on animals, because that’s gross. Our products are accredited by PETA, Choose Cruelty Free, and Truth in Labeling. They are also vegan and gluten-free. At MUSQ cosmetics, we’re committed to

keeping people healthy with products that are natural, ethical and clean. With our recipes, we believe the things you leave out are just as important as what you put it. And what do we leave out? All the nasty stuff – like parabens, silicones, benzoyl peroxide, PEGs, petroleum erivatives, mineral oils, propylene glycol, sodium lauryl sulfate, artificial dyes and fragrances, talc, nano particles and harsh additives. Healthy skin is beautiful. Keep it clean. Choosing products that are good for the skin and for our planet should be a given, not a luxury. We believe that making small changes can make a big difference. This is why we encourage consumers to choose consciously, and do the best you can for your own health and wellbeing, as well as the world around you. It’s my belief that living clean and making conscious choices is the key not only to healthy, beautiful skin but health and wellness in general, both physically and mentally/emotionally. I’ve taken inspiration from the land I live on and try to use native Australian botanicals whenever I can.

MUSQ was launched in 2007, in a small shopping village in Melbourne. Since then, the brand has grown and we’ve established a loyal following in Australian and international markets. It is now based in Adelaide, where I work closely with my team to bring our ideas to life. We collaborate with leading pharmacists and cosmetic formulators to find the highest quality and sustainably sourced ingredients, to create products that deliver real results. I believe it’s our responsibility to give consumers total transparency around what goes into our products empowering them to make more conscious choices for the health of your skin and the planet. MUSQ.COM.AU

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WELLNESS

The

science

of aromatherapy Michelle Reeve* questions the alarming disconnect between natural medicine and science in wellness and skincare.

riving home recently I was listening to a radio interview where the guest dryly compared a non-fact to “being as scientific as aromatherapy!” I wondered if he shared this same cynicism with other scientific concepts like gravity or atom splitting while imagining the ways I could test both on him! I’m not exactly sure when essential oils became the unfortunate recipients of this kind of scepticism. Attitudes around aromatherapy have wandered from “benign pampering” to an “alternative therapy”. Stacked against this mindset, however, is a body of recognised clinical research unpacking Michelle Reeve the benefits and applications of essential oils in medicine and allied therapies. These include and are not limited to aged care, dermatology, oncology and palliative care, along with burns and wound care. For millennia, cultures around the world have prized plants for their medicine and healing qualities. In the 18th century scientists first started isolating the chemical compounds within plants and subjected these constituents to rigorous studies to better understand the mechanisms and compatibility with human physiology. Plants have always been our original medicine and nutrient source. Essential oils are simply the pure and dynamic concentrate

of the plants biochemical signature and the potential within these compounds are extensive. Essential oils are complex and dynamic. Each precious drop of oil is comprised of hundreds of individual chemical constituents. These share commonalities that can be assembled into key functional groups. Within these groups we can identify therapeutic benefits for a range of different body systems and the applications and medicinal properties. The clinical trials produced globally are now confirming centuries of anecdotal evidence.

CLINICAL APPLICATIONS FOR MONOTERPENES The functional group most common to all essential oils are unsaturated hydrocarbons which have 10 carbon atom chains called monoterpenes that have a stimulating and detoxifying effect. They activate the immune response and are powerful antibacterial agents. They not only help to fortify resistance against disease but protect against pathogens. In nature they are the plants natural immune system. In humans, terpene molecules interact with NF-kappaB, the gene responsible for the inf lammatory response at a cellular which activates immunity. s pa a n d cl i n i c.co m.a u | 45

WELLNESS

Although monoterpenes are one of the most common functional groups in aromatherapy, I find these one of the most compelling. D-limonene, a monoterpene found mainly in lemon essential oil and the rinds of other citrus fruits have demonstrated strong anti-tumour activity. One study showed that carcinogen-induced rats fed limonene inhibited the development of tumours without any observable systemic toxicity. Especially interesting was the chemotherapeutic activity on induced mammary carcinoma. One of the key limitations for the development of breast cancer prevention or treatment in humans is the volume required for oral dosing to replicate the therapeutic benefits. However, studies using topical treatment of D-limonene in the right concentrations have promising results in the reductions in breast tumour tissue proliferation while activating transdermal absorption of other treatment drugs. Apart from the anti-cancer effects in pre-clinical mammary cancer models, clinical research using essential oil compounds is available showing applications in the fields of HIV management, AIDS treatments and infection control. For skin treatments monoterpene compounds provide a range of benefits. When applied to the skin topically, they are effective skin tonics with powerful antiseptic, astringent, antiviral and antibacterial properties ideal for targeting congestion, acne, blemishes and skin infections. They are also highly antioxidant offering benefits against sun exposure, glycation and oxidative stress. The applications for essential oils in skincare are exciting. When we pair the physiology of the skin and the pharmacology behind essential oil compounds we create a match made in heaven. 46 | SPA+CLINIC

TRANSDERMAL SUPERSTARS Remember the skin is waterproof. For a substance to penetrate the dermal layers effectively the molecular size needs to be extremely small and the particles need to be lipophilic (oil-loving). Essential oil constituents are so minute that they sprint into the dermal layer allowing us to measure the metabolites in blood and urine less than an hour after an aromatherapy massage. For an ingredient to transform the skin rather than simply cosmetically enhance it we need to be focusing on affecting the granulation layer where new basal cells are formed instead of treating the dead keratinised outer layers.

COMPLEX AND CONCENTRATED An essential oil like rose is made of up a broad list of chemical compounds, each performing a different therapeutic function within the skin. These range from vasoconstricting (toning, astringent and cooling) to cicatrissant (cell stimulating and regenerating) to boosting natural moisturising factors and reducing inf lammation. Considering you need 5,000kg of handpicked rose petals to make just one litre of rose essential oil, the intensity of benefits is remarkable. All oils are comprised of a number of functional groups consisting of many individual chemical constituents. Natural medicine is always mindful that the benefits are not from identifying and isolating just one active compound (the elusive magic bullet) but from the synergy of a complex and intense blend of compounds all working to deliver a complete skin solution.

BIOCHEMICALLY COMPATIBLE Natural skincare brands talk a lot about safety. My preference is to always focus on efficacy and activity. That is, what are the regenerative and corrective benefits of botanical extracts? It should not just be that these compounds are safe for our skin, more that they are biochemically compatible and nutrient rich. Human bodies are made from the same carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms found in the organic chemistry of the plant world, therefore our cells have the receptors to recognise, absorb, and metabolise botanical compounds. As a side benefit we can eliminate the by-products safely. Increasingly we are seeing the term “biomimetic” used in the skincare space, ie., relating or denoting synthetic methods which mimic biochemical processes. Would it not be better to use the original form of the plant matter in the first place? When did cake mix become better than the real thing?

MULTI-TASKERS Essential oils offer multi-functional benefits. Many drugs available today produce a targeted response. Because of the complexity of essential oil many different compounds coexist in the same oil to deliver a range of benefits to many different skin indications. One of my favourite examples is lemon essential oil. We typically think about this oil well matched for oily skin because of its cleansing, detoxifying and antibacterial benefits. However, lemon also inhibits the anti-elastase enzyme that causes wrinkles and fine lines making it effective for aged skin also. Examples of multi-functional benefits are super-common in aromatherapy. Some of these co-existing homeostatic actions can modulate seemingly opposing skin types. Lavender illustrates this beautifully. In skincare lavender is powerfully antibacterial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, sebumbalancing, cell regenerating and hydrating. I can’t think of a skin type that wouldn’t suit these therapeutic benefits from congested acneic skin types with scarring to mature dehydrated skin with presenting with lines and wrinkles. The challenge now is to maintain and support the research. Patenting laws do not allow IP on natural ingredients and the problem continues to be funding. Having said that, there is a growing body of data demonstrating that the investment will only reward us all. In skincare if we consider the health of the skin we see that essential oils are one of the key active ingredient groups which cannot be ignored. Topically-applied essential oils are transdermal and noncomedogenic. Once absorbed, the skin they stimulate granulation for healthy new cells, purify the lymphatics and activate blood flow. As powerful antioxidants, they combat free radical damage, inflammation and the precursors to oxidative stress. Used correctly, they are non-toxic and are assimilated by the skin in the same way our gut processes food. Sounds pretty perfect, right? So why aren’t these aromatic compounds more celebrated and revered in our dermal treatments instead of viewed as pure pampering? Really, it beats me. * Michelle Reeve is founder and managing director of Australia’s Waterlily Skin Body Spa products and protocols and the new SpaCeuticals range. WATERLILYSKINBODYSPA.COM.AU

The Presciption for 3D Health and Beauty The prescriptive workings of Ayurvedic herbs. By Yasmin Sadikot*

yurveda means “science of longevity”. Arguably, it is the epitome of wellness and health under one system. It’s indigenous to India and the oldest recorded system of healing and wellness, introduced by the Rishis over 5000 years ago. It comprises internal herbal medicine, psychology, nutrition, yoga and external medicine. It stands to reason that using medicinal herbs is an excellent way to repair the skin and hair (scalp) to help maintain their health and beauty, with therapies to variously detoxify, rejuvenate and improve tone. Medicinal herbs for the skin have been around for thousands of years. In our modern times, we can still take advantage of these ancient Ayurvedic remedies and solutions. Treatments utilise specific combinations of herbs (not a singular herb) to achieve balance. Our three-fold nature is made up of the soul, the mind and the body. We are a microcosm of the totality – macrocosm – our bodies a temple of light. Without doubt the mind, body and spirit are connected. Disconnection occurs 48 | SPA+CLINIC

when the treadmill of life takes over more beneficial than any single herb and exhibits itself in mental and in the formulation. physical issues. These rasayanas can be used Therefore, Ayurvedic treatments either as nutritional supplements, need to incorporate techniques that to provide support to the skin from encourage the natural flow of life – within, or in topical formulations Yasmin firstly help relax the body, the mind for the skin where they deliver their Sadikot then follows. benefits trans-dermally. The healing properties of herbs The therapeutic value of the are incorporated into treatments and rasayanas is maximised when they are used in products; the combination of which helps natural topical formulations in combination the transcendence from stress to relaxation with organic milk or cream, yogurt or honey. and a visible improvement to the physical Exfoliating ingredients (or substances) body: ie, face, body and/or hair. such as natural clay, salts, grains or lentil One of the chief reasons that Ayurvedic flours, vegetable base oils act as the products and treatments have taken the spa Yogavahi (the carrier of the healing values and beauty worlds by storm is the availability of the herbs) to the cells and tissues. of numerous potent skin rasayanas (rasa Both the herbs themselves, as well as = essence, ayana = enter) in the Ayurvedic other ingredients such as yoghurt or honey, herbal treasury. can be chosen specifically for a skin type, or Skin rasayanas are so called because of balanced to suit all skin types. their ability to deliver penetrating holistic The herbs should always be fresh and benefits to the skin without side effects. mixed into a paste with natural oils such as Whatever the skin type or specific sunflower, sesame and almond to ensure needs for balance, there are Ayurvedic skin their efficacy or juices such as aloe vera or rasayanas that can help. pure rose water. Further, when used in combination, as THE DOSHAS is the Ayurvedic tradition, we derive the Ayurveda holds an elemental view of the added benefit of synergy, with a combined universe and believes people are made up of herbal formulation being exponentially

WELLNESS

various combinations of five elements: Air, Ether, Fire, Earth and Water. They form the three biological humours of Ayurveda called doshas: Vata, Pitta and Kapha.

VATA Air and ether predominant The skin of Vata doshas is delicate and tends to be naturally dry. Skin Rasayanas that benefit Vatas are mainly warming and nourishing, with subsidiary benefits such as enhancing a natural glow, increasing circulation or purifying the skin. Nourishing and warming herbs are important if Vata skin is to look healthy, plump and youthful. Examples of Vata pacifying herbs that help support skin elasticity, moisture balance, texture and radiance are: Brahmi (bacopa), shatavari (Indian asparagus), amla (Indian gooseberry), gotu kola (Indian pennywort), ashwagandha (winter cherry)

PITTA Fire and water dominant Pittasâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; skin is sensitive and has a tendency towards being inflammatory. Skin rasayanas that support the health of Pittas are mainly cooling and soothing. Aggravated Pitta skin can look angry and display eruptions and redness. Pitta skin also requires protection, because often it very sensitive to the sun. Examples of Pitta pacifying herbs that are cooling and calming, and nourish and soothe sensitive skin tissues without irritation are: Amla, bhringaraj (Eclipta alba), kumari (aloe vera), white sandalwood, red sandalwood, vetiver. Helpful to purify and clarify skin without depleting it of moisture are: Triphala, manjistha (Indian Madder), neem

KAPHA Water and earth predominant Tends to be congested and susceptible to attracting dust and grime. Skin rasayanas

for Kapha skin are therefore helpful to purify, detoxify, nourish and rejuvenate. Kapha balancing herbs that help detoxify and nourish simultaneously (Kapha skin needs to be kept clean and stimulated): Neem, manjistha (Indian Madder), triphala, tulsi (Holy basil), turmeric. Herbal professional treatments and take-home products require time to show the full result, not unlike taking herbal supplements internally. The application of herbal creams, lotions, scrubs and oils are important for both professional use and take home. For the herbs to be effective they must be massaged firmly in an upward and circular motion into the skin not compressed. Yasmin is founder and formulator of Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s OmVeda Ayurvedic products and protocols. OmVeda signature techniques are based on traditional Ayurvedic methods refined for use in a modern day spa or wellness centre. Ingredients are sourced from India and the brand works with Ayurvedic doctors and cosmetologists in India. OMVEDA.COM.AU; 1 300 662 383

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Our new feature â&#x20AC;&#x201C; shining a light on the talented icons of our industry. Read on to learn more about what makes these professionals tick...

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s pa a n d cl i n i c.co m.a u | 51

BELIEVE IN YOURSELF AND BE THE BEST By GILLIAN ADAMS Owner/ Gillian Adams Salon & Spa/Turramurra, Sydney

Who I Am My inspiration for establishing a pioneering Australian day spa Around 30 years ago, the industry was going through a lot of change. I wanted to create a place that set the standard for a true urban spa; an oasis where guests could receive the very best. It was a dream of mine to have hair, beauty and body all in one place that would provide an awesome experience for guests and to introduce, in particular, the-then groundbreaking concept of wellness.

contribution.From my values comes choice of product, service, equipment, staff and suppliers. In terms of services, the hydrotherapy pool, the café in the garden - the quiet oasis on Australia’s busiest highway - a unique, successful integration of a very busy hair salon with the quiet environment needed for beauty and wellness. In terms of products, Babor skincare and its continual quest for innovation; the best equipment such as Emerge and Omnilux [LED].

My advice for longevity in a competitive industry

People who have helped me most in my career

Believe in yourself. Be the best. Be creative. I always wanted to lead the industry so I was a creator of the changing industry, not just a follower. Don’t be fazed by a changing industry – it doesn’t faze me because I want the industry to rise above the standards.

Noel de Caprio, an American hairdresser. I met her when I was representing Australia in a world beauty symposium in the late 1980s and she encouraged me to follow my dream. My Mum and Dad. We were market gardeners and my parents taught me to work hard, strive for success and to be the best in all I took on. Dad always won prizes for his vegetables and he developed his own tomatoes because he wanted the best tomato!

How I’ve learnt to create a winning team Staff selection is vital. One of my key questions to a candidate is “what are your values?”. I have learnt the importance of setting boundaries and expect a “fair exchange”; also to understand the many and varied interpretations that can occur in a team.

Indispensable elements/products in my spa My purpose and values. My purpose is helping everyone to see their inner beauty and possibilities so they can conquer their world and beyond. From my purpose comes my values: integrity, being the best, caring, safety, communication, creativity and

My top tips for newcomers Research the location of your business and products to ensure they are great for the client and getting the best results. Follow your dream and stay true to the intention. Be prepared to put in many long hours. Just as I have had to be able to understand and manage money, to support myself in the difficult times and so I could invest in my ideas, seek great advice on the best way to invest and develop.

I always wanted to lead the industry, so I was a creator of the changing industry, not just a follower. 52 | SPA+CLINIC

PROFILE PROMOTION

TREATMENTS Spa packages Massage Facials Microdermabrasion Skin needling Light therapy Hair services Makeup Waxing Aquamedic pool and steam Vichy shower Manicure and pedicure

CONTACT Gillian Adams Salon & Spa www.gillianadams.com

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EDUCATION IS KEY TO SUCCESS By TRACEY BEEBY Head of Education/Ultraceuticals/based in Sydney

Who I Am As a former salon owner now on the other side as an educator, my best advice is …

Keeping up with your education and educating clients is vital to success because …

Use products that you believe in; products that will deliver results for your clients. With an industry that is oversaturated with skincare brands, it is important your clients have a good understanding of your chosen brand, its points of difference, why you chose to work with it in your clinic and what it is going to do for them.

The beauty industry is constantly changing and evolving. Rapid scientific and technological advances means new equipment and skincare formulations are consistently becoming available. Education is vital to keep ahead of the competition and to be able to properly serve your clientele. The more educated you are, the more your clientele will trust you and your expertise.

The most important things you can do for a client is … Take time to provide a good initial consultation and take photographs of your client’s skin. This way, both you as the aesthetician and your client are able to track and measure results effectively. Most clients rarely see a change on their skin from looking in the mirror each day, so it is vital to take baseline images, then monthly with each clinic visit. Then educate your clients regarding their skin concerns, providing the solutions for them in homecare products as well as in clinic treatments. Remember most results are obtained from homecare products roughly 70-80 percent - so clients must use skincare at home between clinic visits in order to deliver real, visible results.

Products/equipment an aesthetics business should not be without are … The piece of equipment I think is essential is a skin analysis camera. Clients are asked to invest considerable amounts of money in skincare regimes and, in this day and age, aestheticians should use technology like this to substantiate their recommendations. Similarly, aestheticians should use products with proven scientific results that can show a true visible difference in the skin because of the formulation of the product. Clients, I believe, also look for products that are safe, effective, trialled and tested in Australia and are certified cruelty-free.

Remember most results are obtained from homecare products - roughly 70-80 percent - Clients must use skincare between clinic visits in order to deliver real, visible results 54 | SPA+CLINIC

PROFILE PROMOTION

TREATMENTS UltraSonophoresis Microdermabrasion Signature Facials Skin Workouts Paramedical Treatments Ultra Skin Consultation

CONTACT Ultraceuticals www.ultraceuticals.com

Brought to you by

s pa a n d cl i n i c.co m.a u | 55

ULTIMATE URBAN BEAUTY RETREAT By LESLEY GREENWELL Owner/Canvas Essential Therapies/Rozelle, Sydney

Who I Am My breakthrough career moment was…

The product(s) most worth the investment are…

Relocating my salon in 2004 to its current premises in Rozelle. This allowed me to truly deliver the experience I’d been striving for: for my clients to step into a sanctuary, our urban retreat, and be pampered by the best in beauty products, treatments and staff. In our industry I believe breakthroughs are about continually striving to improve. This requires you to be open to new ideas, products and treatments in an ever-evolving landscape.

Investing in skincare is about getting a professional skin care prescription to help you achieve goals. Every time a client visits Canvas we customise their treatment and update their skincare program. The results speak for themselves. Products that will help your skin stand the test of time are: Eye cream - see results with GUINOT’s Time Logic Yeux serum, it will hydrate and rejuvenate your eye contour; SPF - daily, it’s essential! Serums and moisturisers to treat your skin’s concerns, it’s all about ingredients - look for AHAs, antioxidants, peptides, vitamins and minerals, to name a few of our favourite ingredients; Masks - we would never dream of doing a facial treatment without one, so make them a part of your weekly ritual to take your skin to the next level.

My favourite career highlight/memory is… Believing in people and being able to train and encourage them to be better than they imagined they could be professionally. I feel lucky to say highlights come regularly for us as we see our clients reach and surpass their skin goals. The happiness of our clients is a wonderful reward.

The top 5 most useful products/equipment in the spa are… Magi lamps - to analyse the skin in depth. GUINOT’s Hydradermie - for the ultimate in customised facial treatment. I’ve worked with it for over 20 years and would never be without it. Omnilux – LED light therapy to rejuvenate the skin and enhance the results of home care and other facial treatments. Hot towel cabinets - for the pure bliss of being cocooned in warm towels. Hydraulic beds - for client and staff comfort. Autoclave - to sterilise.

My advice to people getting started in the industry is… You spend more time at work then you do with family or friends so love what you do! Apprenticeships can be a great way to learn. If you work with great mentors (as I did) you’ll be set to high standards and reach them. To be the best in the industry you’ll need to keep an open mind, constantly research new treatments, products and ingredients, and continuously strive to improve your skills. Also find a salon that works to the highest standards and mentors who are passionate and professional.

Believe in people and train and encourage them to be better than they imagined they could be professionally 56 | SPA+CLINIC

PROFILE PROMOTION

TREATMENTS Facial Therapies Body Nurturing Intensive Treatments Massage Waxing Spray Tanning Manicure Pedicure Callus Peeling

CONTACT Canvas Essential Therapies canvastherapies.com.au

Brought to you by

s pa a n d cl i n i c.co m.a u | 57

GOLD STANDARDS IN SKINCARE By DR GEOFFREY HEBER Founder and director/Ultraceuticals and UltraMD/based in Sydney

Who I Am I started out in my medical career as … A general practitioner in 1984. My father had been a GP and it seemed like a natural thing for me to do.

I specialised in cosmetic medicine and established one of Australia’s first clinics dedicated to same in 1988 because … I had seen the advances made by laser treatment of cosmetic skin problems, and the first dermal filler products had recently been marketed. I thought cosmetic medicine was a very innovative and exciting field that could provide real benefits to patients.

My decision to devote my work to developing advanced skincare was inspired by … The development of the first truly effective ingredients for the treatment of skin concerns in the early 1990s. Major department store brands were using very low concentrations of some of the weaker of these ingredients in very expensive products and there was a major discrepancy in the value-to price-ratio.

What I regard as the biggest breakthroughs in skincare technology during that time have been … The introduction of alpha hydroxy acids and the ability to make

vitamin A as retinol more stable. These ingredients are the gold standards and other ingredients measure their effectiveness against them. No cosmetic ingredients have yet been shown to be more effective for reversing signs of ageing than these. Their efficacy increases with increasing strength and as consumers may misuse higher strengths and suffer irritation, the most effective products containing these ingredients should be professionally recommended. Also, the effectiveness of skin lightening ingredients has advanced considerably.

The biggest mistakes clinics can make when introducing a skincare range and its treatment protocols and home prescriptions are … Not asking to see clinical testing before and after photos of the range’s products risks stocking a range with weak results. A lot of brands will have before and after images from suppliers of ingredients but not of their formulations containing the ingredients. Ingredients penetrate the skin differently in different formulations and just because an ingredient manufacturer has shown an ingredient to be effective alone, this doesn’t show that it will penetrate the skin in the cosmetic company’s product. The same applies to treatments – real before and after photos over time need to be seen. Also, staff in clinics should experience the treatments.

AHAs and vitamin A as retinol … no cosmetic ingredients have yet been shown to be more effective for reversing signs of ageing 58 | SPA+CLINIC

PROFILE PROMOTION

TREATMENTS UltraSonophoresis Microdermabrasion Signature Facials Skin Workouts Paramedical Treatments Ultra Skin Consultation

CONTACT www.ultraceuticals.com; www.ultramd.com.au

Brought to you by

s pa a n d cl i n i c.co m.a u | 59

60 | SPA+CLINIC

AESTHETICS

NEW ERA OF SUN PROTECTION The experts say that Slip, Slop, Slap and SPF are no longer enough to protect us from the ravages of the sun and other potentially harmful light sources. By Jenni Gilbert

our clients likely received their skin cancer education the way several generations of Australians did – through a friendly seagull named Sid who, first seen in 1981, instructed you to Slip! (on a shirt) Slop! (on some sunscreen) Slap! (on a hat). While these principles are just as crucial today and always will be, we are entering a new era of sun protection awareness to minimise the risk of developing skin cancer and reduce – but ideally prevent – the incidence of photoageing. It’s an approach that goes way beyond using a high SPF.

DNA DEEP Dr Ronald Moy, renowned scientist, researcher, dermatologist, Beverly Hills cosmetic surgeon and founder of DNA Renewal skincare says our focus must remain on the prevention of sun cancers but also to better understand the broad spectrum of this damage. “We have really matured in our messaging when it comes to talking about skin cancer prevention,” Dr Moy says.

“How we talk to clients about using sunscreen, the language we use, has become even more important than the product itself. “If salons, spas and clinics focused on skin health as much as selling services we’d be in a much better place when it comes to prevention of skin cancers [and photo-ageing]. “We want to encourage good nutrition, by eating a diet rich in fruit and vegetables, look to laser resurfacing techniques for sun damaged skin, and take up the use of DNA repair enzymes that address the complex changes cells undergo when they are attacked with UV and oxidative stressors.” Dr Moy says the hardest concept to get across is the DNA damage aspect of molecular biology, and that skincare which helps the body’s own cells repair DNA damage is the new tidal wave of advanced skincare technology. Dr Moy suggests that SPF alone should not be the only criterion for choosing a sunscreen. “We should encourage [patients/ clients] to use sunscreen containing both UVB and UVA filters, as SPF is a poor indicator of how well it protects against UVA-induced DNA damage. “SPF can give clients a false sense of security. It’s not a shield and we do not know how effective it is likely to be on skin that has already suffered skin cell damage,” he stresses. So regardless of what labelling changes sunscreens may undergo in the future (and that could mean doing away with SPF altogether, says Dr Moy), client education remains a top priority. ADVANCEDCOSMECEUTICALS.COM.AU

ANTIOXIDANT ARMOURY The sun protection process needs to begin from within, according to leading New York dermatologist Dr Neil Sadick, who presented at the Cosmetex cosmetic medical conference in Sydney in September. Free radical damage to cells – caused by factors such as genetic predisposition, exposure to UV rays and environmental toxins – is a primary cause of accelerated skin ageing. And, of course, the development of skin cancers. Free radicals can cause damage to parts of cells such as proteins, DNA and cell membranes by stealing their electrons through a process called oxidation. This is why FRD is also called “oxidative damage”. An analogy often used to describe the havoc it wreaks is what happens when an apple is cut open and left exposed to the air – its flesh goes brown, or “rusts”, and rapidly rots. And the most effective remedy we know to date is the use of antioxidants; substances that can remove potentially damaging oxidising agents in a living organism.

s pa a n d cl i n i c.co m.a u | 61

AESTHETICS

Yes, we’ve been hearing about free radical damage and antioxidants for many years and it has been used to drive the sales of many a skincare product with ingredients designed to fight FRD. But according to Dr Sadick, what protection we apply TO the skin is not nearly enough. The skin needs internal armour, as it were – and we all need to become a lot much more conscious of that. “I tell all my patients they must up their oral intake of antioxidants,” says Dr Sadick. “Things like vitamins C and E and, a favourite of mine, resveratrol [derived from red grapes].” COSMETEX.ORG

BEWARE THE BLUE LIGHT! A sinister new skin foe is emerging: HighEnergy Visible (HEV) rays emitted by the screens that we all spend hours each day staring at, as well as the sun. Researchers have discovered that the blue light emitted from smartphones, tablets, laptops, desktop monitors and TV could be more damaging to skin than UVA and UVB rays from the sun, and even penetrate skin deeply enough to affect DNA. “We probably spend more time in front of a screen than under the sun now,” according to The Future Laboratory‘s Beauty Futures Report. “You can’t even get into a taxi now without being in front of a screen. Simply offering SPF in products won’t cut it any longer.” The report nominates French skincare brand Dr Sebagh (created by Dr Jean-Louis Sebagh, acknowledged as one of the premier cosmetic doctors in Europe; much soughtafter by celebrities such as Cindy Crawford) as having formulated the first day cream to contain a unique melanin compound designed to protect against HEV rays. “When free radicals, which are the result of multiple factors – the most significant being sun exposure in the form of UVA/UVB light, HEV (blue light) and IR (infrared) surpass the antioxidant defenses of the skin, it causes damage to lipids and proteins of the DNA skin oxidation leading to cellular deterioration,” says Dr Luis S. Luis, medical director of mesoestetic Pharma Group “This in turn leads to the ageing of skin tissues and thus visible signs of ageing of the skin. “While an SPF works on the skin to reflect harmful UVA UVB rays, it is vital to protect skin from the inside to protect 62 | SPA+CLINIC

against cell degradation, DNA damage and a weakened barrier function. “This can be achieved with advanced topical formulation such as mesoestetic’s new AOX Ferulic, which was developed to provide a biological shield against oxidation produced by UVB, UVA, IR and HEV. “AOX Ferulic protects the natural antioxidant system and barrier function of the skin while helping to prevent and work against oxidative cellular damage. “The unique formulation includes ferulic acid, which provides specific protection of fibroblasts against UVA radiation, ascorbic acid (vitamin C) to neutralise free radicals, combined with mesoestetic’s unique ProtechCell Complex, a complex made of vitamin E and synthetic active ingredient, to provide advanced dual antioxidant protection.” ADVANCEDCOSMECEUTICALS.COM.AU

Says Megan Manco, SkinCeuticals skincare Scientific Director: “There are a multitude of things that are harmful to our skin, from UV rays to a bad diet, but there are two predominant issues that have come to the fore this year: pollution and blue light from electronic devices. “Environmental impurities, like ground level ozone (O3) pollution, have been shown to cause signs of premature ageing. “Pollution levels have never been higher, and this is having a significant impact on the health and appearance of our skin. It causes damage to the skin in various ways such as weakened antioxidant defences at the surface, increase in dehydration, increase in sebum production and more. “Skin damage due to ozone exposure is mainly mediated by its ability to induce oxidative stress. More specifically, exposure to ozone pollution (O3 – such as from driving in peak hour traffic and living in big cities) has been shown (in vivo) to oxidise lipids, deplete skin’s natural

antioxidant reservoir, activate inflammatory pathways, and cause collagen degradation. “There are, therefore, longterm effects from pollution on the skin. The compounded effect of ozone-induced oxidative stress leads to accelerated signs of skin ageing including appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, loss of radiance, skin laxity, as well as diffuse and localised pigmentation.” Megan says SkinCeuticals’ latest study (due for publication in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology) has shown that topical vitamin C formulations, such as SkinCeuticals’ C E Ferulic or Phloretin CF can have a highly protective effect, significantly reducing the oxidative damage caused by O3 exposure. “Antioxidants not only provide advanced environmental protection but are also clinically proven to improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and promote a naturally even skin tone by neutralising free radicals.” SKINCEUTICALS.COM.AU

RED ALERT Dr Yohei Tanaka, one of Japan’s leading plastic surgeons and founder of the International Photobiological Society in Melbourne, was also a keynote speaker at Cosmetex, with a focus on the necessity of solar near-infrared (NIR) protection. “The need to overcome sunlight (UV and NIR) arose for the first time when primitive life developed on land,” he says. “Studies have shown that NIR may damage skin collagen content via an increase in MMP-1 activity in the same manner as is known for UV radiation.” Through intensive photobiological research, Dr Tanaka discovered the various biological effects of water-filtered broad spectrum near-infrared (1000-1800 nm together with a water-filter that excludes wavelengths 1400-1500 nm) including anticancer effects.

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THE

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Why sugar is the new wax – an eco-friendly hair removal method that’s kind to skin

S The most obvious benefits that clients report are the fact that sugaring is up to 70% less painful than waxing and leaves the skin soft, clean and smooth without irritation and redness. 64 | SPA+CLINIC

ugaring is a hair removal sugaring systems in the world. treatment that has been She got cooking, literally, practised for centuries at her stove in Auckland after throughout northern Africa emigrating from India to convert (notably Egypt), Greece, the a family recipe into the natural, Middle East and India. innovative hair removal gel that Bernadette A gel made from sugar, today is Phâro Sugaring. Soares lemon and hot water is used Bernadette now owns some to pull hair out of the roots. of Australasia’s best known and “It’s a natural alternative to lasers and award-winning products and has well one that lasts longer than traditional exceeded even her own expectations. waxing,” according to Bernadette “Sugaring isn’t new to the beauty Soares, creator and managing director world, but Phâro takes the ancient art of Phâro Sugaring. into the 21st century,” she says. “Sugaring doesn’t stick to skin but “It allows therapists to leverage off only to the hair. Therefore, it really their waxing training and use all the gets the hair out of the roots. acknowledged benefits of sugaring “Rather than a wax that adheres to without the messiness and hassle of skin and pulls it when you are removing the old ball method. the hair, sugar just binds to hair and so “Therapists love the fact that only pulls hair.” Phâro is a true sugaring gel available Entrepreneur Bernadette started in pots and in an easy-to-apply out with a vision to have one of the best cartridge system.

BRAND PROFILE

“There are a number of differences between our products and waxes. “Firstly, there are no resins or chemicals. Secondly they are easier and eco-friendly to clean up and wash off in water. “Finally the gels are applied warm rather than hot so will not cause burning if applied correctly and will not remove a natural tan. “The most obvious benefits that clients report are the fact that sugaring is up to 70% less painful than waxing and leaves the skin soft, clean and smooth without irritation and redness”. Phâro Sugaring has become one of the leading hair removal systems in Australia and New Zealand. Previously available directly from NZ, demand has grown so rapidly here that a supplier has been appointed in each NSW and WA. “Customers are past getting fooled by cheap marketing gimmicks and are more mature,” says Bernadette. “They are looking beyond the hype and packaging, towards products that actually deliver value. “The Phâro Sugaring product, with its natural, luxurious formulation, makes hair removal a near-spa experience and has gained wide acceptance among leading professionals. “Our product goes onto the skin at 45 degrees, as compared with hot wax, which adheres at 60 degrees. “Due to the lower temperature, there is almost no inflammation or redness post-treatment. “The sugaring method grips only the hair – not the skin – meaning that there’s significantly less discomfort felt by the customer while they’re being treated.” Like laser hair removal, sugaring offers permanent hair reduction and, as mentioned, can resolve ingrown hair issues. Regrowth time is roughly 4-6 weeks initially but clients can usually schedule follow-up appointments for longer and longer intervals – until one day there may be no need at all! Bernadette recommends that salons offer customers a package deal for several sugaring sessto allow customers the full longterm benefits.

MAXIMISE TANNING Tanning is a major trump card when it comes to clients choosing whether to have waxing, laser or sugaring, Bernadette says. One of the major pitfalls with waxing

TANTASTIC Smooth, sleek, hair-free skin provides the perfect canvas for tanning – and a healthy, sexy, slimming, sun-kissed glow. Phâro Sugaring is an all-natural, eco-friendly product for hair removal that not only makes painful, messy waxing a thing of the past but, unlike waxing, allows for tanning products to be applied immediately. The Sugar Wax n Tan is a new treatment that combines the indulgent body sugaring of Phâro and an innovative bio-tanning from Radiessence, all in a single treatment. Manufactured in New Zealand, Phâro is made with Manuka honey and kiwifruit and washes off in water – a major benefit compared to the harsh resins and solvents used in traditional waxing. Therapists also love the fact that Phâro is a true sugaring gel available in pots and in an easy-to-apply cartridge system Phâro Sugaring has become one of the leading hair removal systems in Australia and New Zealand. “Our Eco Beauty message and products have resonated with therapists around the world,” says Bernadette Soares, founder and CEO. “The success of Phâro and Radiessence reinforce that Eco Beauty is here to stay, as evidenced by having over 500 salons in NZ and Hilton spas, and distribution in Australia, the US and UK, Spain and Italy. “Previously available in Australia directly from NZ, demand has grown so rapidly here that a supplier has been appointed in each NSW and WA.” Your clients – and therapists – will love this smooth operator!

and laser hair removal is that clients cannot be spray tanned on the same day as they leave the skin too sensitive – and it would likely create a blotchy, uneven finish anyway. Sugaring allows customers to be sprayed right after their hair is stripped away. “The reason this is possible is that the pH of Phâro Sugaring and our Radiessence spray tanning products are compatible,” Bernadette explains. “Due to the fact that skin can be completely cleaned after a treatment, the lack of residue on the skin makes for an even tan. “In fact, tanning the skin directly after sugaring extends the life of the tan from the normal 5-7 days to around 9 days.”

A TREAT FOR THERAPISTS New staff need not be recruited to start offering sugaring in your business. In fact, your therapists will find the treatment technique akin to, and often easier, than waxing. Chances are they’ll be sold on the spot! “The Phâro gel, being water soluble, gives the therapist peace of mind in the sense that it can be wiped away if not applied properly,” says Bernadette. “When waxing eyebrows, the special

applicators allow for the precision of threading and create a very clean, crisp eyebrow shape.”

PHARO FACTS The Phâro Sugaring range claims to have the most cost effective and comprehensive range of products that make it a complete hair removal solution for therapists. It includes warm and firm gel pots and cartridges: • Phâro Manuka Sugaring Gel • Phâro Marine Gel • Phâro Organic Sugar and Rose Water Sugaring Gel Post treatment products include: • Phâro Apres Sugaring Mist • Phâro MicroFibre Exfoliating Cloths • Phâro Skin Perfecting Serum It is available in three varieties of formulations for different skin types and made from natural and organic ingredients including manuka honey, aloe vera, kiwifruit, marine extracts, organic sugar, rose water and lemon. The formulations are ideal for those with sensitive skin and/or prone to irritation from traditional waxing methods. PHAROSUGARING.COM; RADIESSENCE.COM

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Make up not break down your skin Makeup is critical when offering a complete skin service, but the wrong choice of products is contributing to the spike seen in sensitive skin. Reika Roberts, managing director of dermaviduals, explains.

clear, even complexion is undoubtedly the popular result most people desire from their skin care routine. All too often we see a contradictory role being played by makeup application. Silicones, fragrances and colours are often attributable to exacerbating skin conditions and counteracting the promised result we envisage. Many leading makeup brands (even mineral makeup brands) do not offer physiological ingredients, leading to products that are neither breathable nor nourishing, and end up causing barrier disorders and associated sensitivities. Makeup is critical when offering a complete skin service, but the wrong choice of makeup is contributing to the spike seen in sensitive skin. This is why dermaviduals have produced

68 | SPA+CLINIC

Anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties play a large role in the overall health of the skin. Ingredients such as squalene, vitamin E and caprylic triglyceride all actively work to correct skin conditions while giving the skin a flawless finish to makeup rather than covering up and masking the skin. Corneotherapeutic mineral make up is an essential tool for skin treatment therapists to break the cycle of covering and aggravating skin conditions.

deco, a customised mineral foundation and core make up range that is physiologically compatible with the skin. As a further point of difference, the liquid foundation is completely customised to match DERMAVIDUALS.COM the precise skin tone. There are no nasties hiding in dermaviduals deco, which aligns itself with our desire to offer pure products that are actually good for skin. Skin-loving ingredients in our corneotherapeutic mineral makeup are the perfect replacements for the non-desirable ingredients that deplete skin instead of Dermavidualsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; new deco range of mineral makeup thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nourishing it. physiologically compatible with the skin

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It might sound overly basic, but many clients need to be taught how to use skincare properly

f clients don’t commit to a dedicated, regular homecare regime between professional visits, they will not get the results they desire – and could well blame you for treatments “not working”. Lack of compliance with homecare could boil down to a matter of a routine too complicated and time-consuming and/or needing to use too many products. But it doesn’t have to be that hard. Metro-Dora Clifford is CEO, advanced clinical therapist and master trainer for beauty and cosmetic businesses and Beauty-Thru-Nature Skin and Laser Clinics (ClinicalPRO). Metro-Dora says that educating clients to use a simple three-step approach is the key to success:

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Stage Two: Recover and Rejuvenate Products in this stage treat and correct damage from excessive sun exposure or environmental stress by delivering ingredients into the cellular level. By using toners, serums and treatment crèmes without synthetic fragrances, mineral oils, fillers or petroleum, ingredients are absorbed through the skin’s receptors and supply amino acids, proteins, vitamins and minerals to new skin cells. This will help the skin recover and rejuvenate and enhance its immune system.

Stage Three: Hydrate and Maintain Stage One: Remove and Refine In this stage, our pure and potent formulas deep cleanse using cleansers, exfoliants and glycolics with naturally-sourced ingredients that are chirally correct for all skin types to remove and refine the skin of the build up of dead cells. This creates a pathway for new

This stage focuses on daily skin protection and maintenance. Masques amd sunscreen are the perfect combination for this as they infuse moisture into skin and retain the hydration longer for a dewy glow and to reduce the signs of ageing.

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A+ ingredient Vitamin A derivatives retinol and retinyl retinoate are antiageing superstars, working to brighten the complexion, reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles and boost moisture for smoother, softer, younger looking skin. By Jenni Gilbert. 70 | SPA+CLINIC

quarter of a century ago, vitamin A in the form of retinoid became the first topical ingredient to be scientifically proven to reverse signs of skin ageing such as fine lines and wrinkles. But this first generation cosmeceutical (before the term was even coined) miracle came with a price. It was available on prescription only under brand names such as Retin A and side effects could include making skin extremely dry, red and flaking â&#x20AC;&#x201C; even cracked â&#x20AC;&#x201C;and cause it to be highly sensitive, especially to the sun. First generation cosmeceutical skincare enthusiasts, this editor included, rushed

to GPs (when really Retin A et al should really have only been prescribed in those early days under the supervision of dermatologists) for their fix, only to find their faces flaming within a week. Vitamin A in skincare has gone under an immense evolution in the intervening years, in its pure form, retinol. It is now much more sophisticated in its delivery and thus more impactful in its results, far more user-friendly to the consumer with no script required, and way kinder to the skin. Under the influence of vitamin A the metabolic activity of skin cells in increased resulting in less dead skin cell build up. It is an excellent ingredient to treat dry skin,

AESTHETICS

Dr Geoffrey Heber

The new Ultra-Reti microparticles are onemillionth of the size, which means finer microparticles than ever before are able to penetrate faster and more effectively with a higher loading capacity. The microparticles are formed by encapsulating retinol into a soft wax base that is readily absorbed into the skin. Ultra A Skin Perfecting Range retinol stabilisation and delivery technology ensures vital ingredients impact cells in the epidermis to produce significantly plump and visibly diminished fine lines and wrinkles. This cutting-edge technology leads the way with superior stability over a six-month time frame when compared to unprotected retinol and other competitor stabilisation technology.

“Formulas also often include other skin saviour ingredients such as vitamin C and hyaluronic acid, which is utilised in Medik8’s r-Retinoate to give a more luxury skincare product.” Elliot explains that vitamin A is integral for helping with the natural cycle of cell turnover. It is able to speed up the regeneration of skin cells to thicken the epidermis, plump the skin and enhance collagen production. It is also able to inhibit the formation of uneven pigmentation and decrease the likelihood of blemishes. “Forms of retinol should not be used during the day as the molecules themselves are sensitive to UV; they degrade when exposed to the sun. “Therefore, retinol should be used at night. Medik8 r-Retinoate actually contains the only non-photosensitive form of vitamin A - retinyl retinoate. “This is proven to not break down on exposure to sunlight and can be used both day and night. “Vitamin A and vitamin C go hand in hand with night and day products respectively, as they both help to stimulate collagen production, which is integral for anti-ageing. “AHAs are also useful to use alongside vitamin A to help slough off the top layer of dead skin and help to improve cellular regeneration. There are no ingredients we advise not to use with vitamin A. “However, vitamin A skincare is not recommended for women who are pregnant, breastfeeding or trying for a baby. “If you are taking medication, check its compatibility with vitamin A skincare with your doctor.” Medik8 advises users to start on vitamin A by

fine lines and sun damage by refining the skin’s surface. Retinol is a true anti-ageing superstar, working to help brighten the skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, regulate sebum production and increase skin moisture levels and leave the skin smoother, softer and Ultraceuticals Ultra A Skin Perfecting Serum younger looking. One of the keys to the ULTRACEUTICALS.COM success of Australia’s award-winning cosmeceutical range Ultraceuticals in the NO NEED TO FEAR past decade has been its retinol products. Vitamin A used to be the ingredient “What I regard as the biggest everyone was too afraid breakthroughs in skincare technology have been the ability to make vitamin A as retinol to use, according to Elliot Isaacs, Medik8 more stable and the introduction of alpha Formulation and hydroxy acids,” says Ultraceuticals founder Development Director. Dr Geoffrey Heber. “It was associated with “These ingredients are the gold irritated, red and flaking standards and other ingredients measure skin,” he says. “These their effectiveness against them. No problems were due to cosmetic ingredients have yet been shown higher than normal levels to be more effective for reversing signs of of vitamin A introduced ageing than these.” into the skin far too Dr Heber says retinol – reported to quickly, which caused an have effects within the skin up to 20 times inflammatory response. stronger than the more commonly used “Now, vitamin A retinyl palmitate – is an unstable molecule and must therefore be stabilised to maintain products have improved with very skin-friendly optimal potency until usage. formulations. Ultraceuticals’ team of expert research “Medik8 utilises a chemists have spent five years developing time-release system and testing its exclusive Ultra-Reti which allows the vitamin microencapsulation technology for A actives to be released effective stabilisation and delivery of slowly over time into retinol to the skin. the skin and also helps Its Ultra A Skin Perfecting Serum range, to stabilise the vitamin relaunched in August, now features a new A, which is notoriously and improved exclusive retinol delivery Medik8 r-Retinoate unstable in water. technology within the Ultra-Reti.

Elliot Isaacs and Catherine Biedermann, managing director of Advanced Cosmeceuticals, Australian distributor of Medik8

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AESTHETICS

All ready for the guests: the setting for Murad’s recent education evening at Sydney’s QT Hotel

phasing it into their routines slowly using the “Retinol Ladder:” Start with the lowest strength retinol (eg. Medik8 Retinol 3TR) and initially use it twice a week for two weeks Then move on to using it every other night for two weeks. Finally, every day. “This should help get the skin used to the excess amounts of vitamin A without irritation. You can then gradually increase the strength of the vitamin A product (eg. Medik8 6TR or 10TR),” says Elliot. MEDIK8.COM.AU

THREE STEPS TO RADIANT SKIN Many retinol formulas rely on a single form of retinol and may take several weeks to deliver results and cause irritation. Legendary cosmeceutical pioneer and founder of the famous skincare line that bears his name, Los Angeles-based dermatologist Dr Howard Murad, has perfected the science of retinol with a new breakthrough serum powered by Retinol Tri-Active Technology. This technology features a fast-acting retinoid (the purest and most active form of Vitamin A that converts to retinoic acid in the skin), a time-released retinol, and a retinol booster. The new system was unveiled to a select 72 | SPA+CLINIC

group of salon, spa and clinic owners and therapists at Sydney’s QT Hotel, in the heart of the city, in September. Murad Australia has instigated a regular series of such education evenings to help businesses better serve their clients and, in so doing, make more profit. At the same time they are able to network with peers, are treated to drinks and canapés and leave with a generous gift bag. “Retinol is not always stable and this makes it a more difficult ingredient to work with,” says David Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Whyte, Murad’s Asia Pacific Global Serum Educator, who hosted the evening. “We had an informal discussion about retinol and the new tri-active technology, followed by a Q&A session. “Then there was a live demonstration for guests to see the Murad peels in action and to see the new products.” They are: Resurgence Step 2 l Retinol Youth Renewal Serum, a potent but gentle formula that quickly and visibly minimises lines and deep wrinkles, firms, evens skin tone and boosts radiance for more vibrant, youthful skin. Power claim: In two weeks 93% of participants in a Murad-sponsored study saw

a reduction in lines and wrinkles and 98% noticed smoother skin. Retinol Youth Renewal Eye Serum, another potent yet gently treatment that minimises the look of wrinkles and crow’s feet while infusing skin with a nutrient-rich Marine Kelp Complex to lift, firm and visibly brighten dark circles. Power Claim: Results can be seen in as little as a week. Retinol Youth Renewal Night Cream, a luxurious formula containing a peptide-rich red algae extract to helps improve firmness and elasticity to restore youthful contours. MURAD.COM

Dr Howard Murad

PAEYEDLULL AW SKIN

Pastelle with the oll Facial China D

CHINA DOLL FACIAL IS THE HOTTEST TREATMENT IN TOWN!

Pastelle Q-Switched Laser will be the most popular device in your clinic when your patients experience the smooth, glowing, and younger-looking skin produced by this simple treatment – and they’ll want more! HOW THE PASTELLE CHINA DOLL FACIAL WORKS: • A thin layer of Wontech Soft Peel Carbon Cream is applied to the skin, to act as a photo enhancer. • The entire area is then treated by Australia’s best selling Q-Switched laser, the Pastelle. The Pastelle’s laser light is absorbed by the carbon on the skins’s surface. • The carbon cream is shattered and blasted from the skin, taking the dirt, oil and dead skin cells from the epidermal layer, helping to contract the pores.

• Combining laser toning mode and laser genesis mode will activate collagenesis, providing long-lasting improvement to the underlying structure of the skin. • A course of 6 treatments over 2 months is advised for maximum results. However, many clients enjoy having a single session to prepare their skin for an important occasion. • Suitable for all skin types.

PASTELLE FOR • China Doll Facial • Tattoo Removal • Pigmentation & Melasma • Acne & Acne Scar Treatment • Skin Rejuvenation

SPECIFICATIONS Irradiation Type: Wavelength:

Q-Switched Nd:YAG laser 1064nm & 532nm (Laser H/P 585nm & 660nm) Maximum Energy 1064nm: 1,300mJ 532nm: 500mJ PTP mode: 1,600mJ Genesis Mode: 3,500mJ Maximum Energy: (Multi Dye Handpieces) 585nm: 400mJ 660nm: 150mJ Pulse Duration: 5ns (Q-Switched) 20ns (Q-Switched PTP) 300–400ns (Genesis) Repetition Rate: 1 – 12 Hz Spot Size 2 – 10 mm

NEWdition

E Limited stelle 2018 Pa

Exclusively distributed in Australia and New Zealand www.cryomed.com.au 1300 346 448

TOP TECH TIPS FOR

2018 Implementing or upgrading device technology in your business could play a key role in transforming your fortunes. By Jenni Gilbert.

hat’s going to set your salon, spa or clinic apart from the pack in 2018? How will you keep existing clients excited and eager to try new things, as well as attract a whole new array of customers and referrals? Likely you have your business plan sorted for 2018 and beyond, but is there wiggle room to consider new elements that will really take your offering to the next level? As we head into what is traditionally the busiest time of the year for the industry, it can be difficult to devote time to forward thinking. Yet the time you can give that now to tweak your customer offering for 2018 could mean all the difference between a sorry, soso or sensational year’s performance ahead. Implementing or upgrading device technology in your business could play a key role in transforming your fortunes. It doesn’t mean investing a fortune, or turning your current offering on its head and completely revising your treatment menu. It may just mean a strategic addition to your current offering, or adding a device (or two) to work in synergy with and enhance what you already offer for even better client outcomes. With technology evolving so rapidly and the proliferation of new devices that cater to all sectors of the market, it is easier than you think to introduce quality, economical and practical equipment. This will allow you to keep existing clients excited with a new 74 | SPA+CLINIC

Before

Treatment performed by Dr J.H Park, South Korea After

Treatment performed by Dr J.H Park, South Korea

TECHNOLOGY

HOW IT WORKS

range of services and have a cutting edge to attract new ones. SPA+CLINIC presents a sampling plate of tech options to consider for 2018.

THE CHINA DOLL CARBON FACIAL Pigmentation is cited as Australians’ third most worrisome aesthetic skin concern, and numerous surveys have shown that a mottled complexion is perceived as more of a marker of ageing than lines and wrinkles. In many Asian cultures, flawless, porcelainlike skin has for centuries been highly prized. Pastelle in action Treatments that could lighten and brighten the skin have been the most sought-after of all beauty remedies. The 20th and 21st centuries have made this quest a whole lot easier with cosmeceutical skincare and the advent of laser and IPL technology to blitz dark spots and blotches and generally even out skin tone. Around the 1990s, here in Australia, several generations of sun worshippers (and those who simply got collateral damage from being exposed to the sun in daily life) realised The Tan had terrible consequences … First and foremost, the risk of skin cancers, some fatal, like melanoma. Australia, per capita, has the highest rate of skin cancers in the world. The second – and which is the lifeblood of our industry – was accelerated skin ageing in the form of lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and overall degeneration of the skin leading to dullness, dryness, crepiness and sagging. Australians of all ethnic backgrounds have been clamouring for answers ever since. And so to The China Doll Facial with Pastelle Q-Switched laser…

A thin layer of medical-grade carbon cream is applied to the skin, to act as a photo enhancer. After about 15 minutes, the entire area is then treated by the Pastelle, whose nano-second lightning fast Q switched Nd Yag Laser stimulates and cleans the pores, and promotes the growth of collagen. The carbon cream is shattered and blasted from the skin, taking the dirt, oil and dead skin cells from the epidermal layer, helping to contract the pores. Combining laser toning and laser genesis modes will activate collagenesis, providing longlasting improvement to the underlying structure of the skin. How does it feel: The China Doll Facial has been described as feeling warm or prickly, but not painful. A minor “sonic boom” is heard as the carbon particles are targeted by the laser and the light energy is absorbed by the carbon particles. How many treatments: A course of six over two months is advised for maximum results but many clients enjoy a single session for an important occasion. Suitable for: All skin types and can be used for tattoo removal. It targets acne and acne scars, blackheads, open pores, oiliness, mottled complexions, and stimulates collagen production to reduce wrinkles, brighten and tighten the skin. The “facial” is suitable for women and men of all ages and assists people with pigmentation, acne, wrinkles, dull or poor skin tone, large pores, and helps to lessen the premature signs of ageing. Is there downtime: No. It is non-invasive and clients can return to normal activities straight after treatment. They will, however, need to ensure they use at least SPF 30+ sunblock for any outdoor activities.

...numerous surveys have shown that a mottled complexion is perceived as more of a marker of ageing than lines and wrinkles.

CRYOMED.COM.AU

QUESTIONS TO ASK WHEN DOING THE NUMBERS If you base your decision on what equipment to invest in purely on price (as in, the lowest possible) it may be false economy and you could end up paying dearly in the longterm. To avoid making a poor investment, Kate McGrath, marketing consultant to Cutera lasers, suggests you ask these questions when negotiating with a device supplier: • If my device needs service, who will perform the service and how long until you can get to me? (A local national service team is really important because customers won’t wait if the

service takes, say, three weeks - you will lose them to a competitor.) • Do you have service contracts [to keep devices in top running order and avoid downtime)? • Do you have accredited training, or can you help me with that? • I s my device upgradeable? (Some devices can be upgraded as your business grows so you don’t have to buy complete new devices to move ahead.) • Do you have a tradein policy? • Can you help me with marketing support (that’s locally compliant

marketing, not something grabbed from the internet)? • Do you have recommended protocols? • I s there someone I can speak with if I have a problem (for example, Cutera has national and international trainers available to walk accounts through any problems or challenging questions - great for newbies)? • Will you provide ongoing education and workshops (Cutera has international speakers on a regular basis to share with local customers, for instance their Cutera University seminars)? CUTERA.COM.AU

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TECHNOLOGY

LIGHT UP

YOUR BUSINESS LED technology – the easy to use workhorse cash cow with results clients clamour for.

t’s famously said in the industry that having an LED device in your salon, spa or clinic is like having a staff member who delivers results that clients clamour for – and who works for free. But not all LEDs are created equal. They need to be sourced from a reputable distributor with a proven track record for superior technology and services. We look at two examples:

Distributed in Australia by Professional Beauty Solutions, Dermalux LED Tri-wave has won Best New Treatment 2013, and Treatment of the Year in 2014, 2015 and 2016 at the UK Aesthetics Awards . “The increase in demand and awareness of LED phototherapy has made Dermalux a popular results-driven, non-invasive treatment choice in salons worldwide, due to its versatility and profitability,” says Matt Williams, managing director at PBS. Established six years ago in the UK, Dermalux LED Tri-wave offers all three global standard wavelengths – Blue 415nm, Red 633nm and Near Infrared 830nm – concurrently from the one handpiece head, as well as separately. Light can have dramatic results on all kinds of skin conditions, from acne-prone and ageing complexions to psoriasis and dermatitis. The chronic case of rosacea (pictured) was resolved after harnessing Red and Near Infrared light wavelengths. They are also able to increase the levels of an enzyme called superoxide dismutase, which effectively has an antioxidant effect in the skin to neutralise the free radicals and prevent further damage. The free-standing device comes with 1856 LED diodes emitting light from eight panels. If you don’t have the floor space, you don’t need to sacrifice results with the Compact Tri-wave offering 1160 LED diodes on five panels. DERMALUXLED.COM.AU

Before and after treatment for rosacea with Dermalux LED Tri-wave

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Keep, manufactured in Italy by Tuenda, is a phototherapy device that: • Addresses signs of and slows skin ageing • Reduces impurities and gives back tonus and elasticity to the skin. • Is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skins. • Has a unique 3-in-1 technology for more

Before and after treatment for acne with Tuenda's Keep LED technology

effective result: red, blue-purple and infrared. • Has a contact-less system for maximum hygiene. • Has uniform distribution of energy over the treated area for optimum results. • C omes with a tablet, which means that treatment can be monitored from another room. • Has integrated software for skin analysis to offer the best protocol for your client’s needs. • Is easy to use, with step-by-step software, with unlimited free software updates. • Offers free instant updates on treatments that can be streamed directly to the devce, that increases the device’s life cycle. • Has 480 medical-grade LED lights.. Keep, distributed in Australia by France Medical, claims the fastest return investment on the market and that it is 27 times more powerful than traditional LEDs. Keep has six different protocols of 20 minutes and 6-8 sessions to achieve desired results in as little as 4 weeks. “Invest in your business and see results in only two months,” says Aurelien Coursodon, managing director of France Medical. “With a suggested cost per treatment of $120, or cost per package of 6 for $720, if you sold four packages a week, that’s $2880 a week = in 10 weeks your investment is paid off! “There are also rental options and payment plans available.” FRANCEMEDICAL.COM.AU

Clear the decks

et Peel 3V treatment is an all-natural, virtually painless procedure that dramatically improves the appearance and texture of skin, promotes wrinkle reduction, removal of unwanted pigmentation and overall skin rejuvenation. It is also very useful for treating acne, blackheads and other comedone eruptions as it quickly and effortlessly removes them without pain or discomfort. Using a unique hand-piece, you “scan” a patient’s skin and gently “pressure wash” it. It feels cool and soothing, gently

cleansing and unclogging pores and removing debris that naturally builds up, leaving skin hydrated and nourished. Jet Peel also massages skin and promotes circulation making it look vibrant, smooth and younger. Jet Peel 3V treatments are usually administered in a series of sessions, and you can then schedule a maintenance session every few months to maintain skin’s lustre and clarity. There is no downtime; skin may pink during treatment but should return to normal colouration within 15-30 minutes.

Jet Peel 3V treatments are mostly commonly performed on face, neck and décolleté. However, they can be easily administered to any body area requiring deep cleansing, smoothing and hydration. Acne treatments are often done for healing enhancement and deep cleansing. Although most often used as a standalone device to correct a multitude of skin problems, Jet Peel 3V treatments can be combined with IPL and other procedures, depending on the individual skin condition. Jet Peel 3V’s exclusive supersonic infusion-style technology delivers essential elements, water and oxygen, deep within the skin - fundamentals of all cellular growth and repair. GETZHEALTHCARE.COM

Divine transformation

utspoken talk show personality “It lifts and tightens the skin and that’s Sharon Osbourne is renowned for what I have done. No more cutting for me. her love of cosmetic enhancements, That is so dated, darling! Nobody does that but declares she has sworn off cosmetic anymore.” surgery procedures, Such was the influence of her “I realised that in a lot of photos my face “endorsement” that clinics around the US looked plastic and at certain angles I was were inundated. like, ‘Oh, dear. Oh, I should never have done Halo uses wavelengths to even out that. Oh, that’s a bad one.’ So I’m like, ‘No skin tone and repair visible signs of sun more. No more abuse.’ “ damage, pigmentation and enlarged In March last year Sharon revealed on pores. It produces the impactful results US TV’s The Talk that she of an ablative laser while had been having a nonoffering the shorter surgical procedure called downtimes of non-ablative Halo, a “hybrid” fractional lasers. laser that delivers both (Ablative laser targets non-ablative (1470nm) both the surface and lower and ablative (2940nm) layers of skin by injuring or wavelengths to the same “ablating” the surface. Nonmicroscopic treatment zone. ablatives target the lower “In December, and again layers of skin while leaving in February, I had two Halo the skin’s surface unharmed Sharon Osborne laser procedures,” she said. and intact.)

In retexturising this patiemt's skin Halo has significantly lifted her features

In treating this patient's acne and pigmented scars Halo has given her skin a radiant glow

Halo is relatively new to Australia, and the US company that manufacturers it – Sciton – has recently established an office here. SCITON.COM

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TECHNOLOGY

It’s the little things

Befores and afters of treatment with Lutronic's enCurve

Shape of the future

ometimes it’s the smaller things in life that create the biggest impact. It’s true of the bt-Micro handheld ultrasonic exfoliation and infusion device. Even though it is super-compact, bt-Micro claims the power to deliver comprehensive ultrasonic exfoliation facials that work to thoroughly peel away dead and dull skin and decongest problem areas. Infusion modes designed to enhance serum and crème skincare efficacy enhance product penetration at up to 75% greater than topical application, and kick-start skin cell turnover for a healthier, clearer, smoother and more radiant complexion. bt-Micro is powered by a rechargeable battery and is an effective, lightweight and compact piece of beauty equipment for technology-enhanced facials.

THEGLOBALBEAUTYGROUP.COM.AU OR CALL 1300 006 607.

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he new enCurve by Lutronic is a state of the art body contouring technology that uses apoptosisinducing radio frequency to effectively target and eliminate fat cells permanently. Working through controlled delivery of energy deep into the adipocytes, enCurve utilises a specialised frequency (27.12 MHz) to selectively target and heat adipocytes to the optimal temperature to cause denaturation of cells, resulting in their elimination. The enCurve is designed to easily treat the entire abdomen and waistline simultaneously for more natural results and full coverage as well as treat the thighs and arms. It is a non-invasive and non-touch treatment with no or little discomfort and no downtime for the patient. The apoptosis-inducing RF penetrates deep into the tissue, targeting the adipocytes. The lipocytes vibrate rapidly, creating heat. The frictional heat raises the adipocyte temperature to 45 degrees at which point the cells denaturise. This denaturation causes changes in the integrity of the adipocyte membrane, which leads to apoptosis or cell elimination. The body’s

natural removal process then takes over, permanently removing the damaged cells. Its 27.12 MHz frequency is more highly absorbed by adipocytes. As a result, adipocytes are more responsive than the cells in epidermis, dermis, or muscles, making this frequency ideally suited to precisely target the adipocytes. Compelling features of EnCurve: • It is easy to operate with minimal labour required: once the treatment begins the device measures the impedance of the tissue, and begins to tune to the adipose tissue. The enCurve constantly adjusts energy delivery in order to ensure and maintain homogeneous heating of the tissue. • A ir Mode is working to eliminate sweat on tissue for improved safety and comfort • Needs no consumables • Smart features allow for autoadjustment of the power levels to minimise energy loss • Personalised Impedance Synchronisation Application (PISA™) ensures the best possible personalised treatment outcomes ADVANCEDCOSMECEUTICALS.COM. AU/BRANDS/LUTRONIC

Seeing is believing Skin analysis imaging facilitates better understanding of a client’s concerns – ergo, better outcomes

kin analysis technology is becoming an invaluable tool for assessing clients’ conditions at a deeper level, literally. It enables you as a clinician/therapist to see to a significant extent what the underlying problems are. This enables more effective planning of treatment protocols and prescriptive products, and to include the client in that process. They can see for themselves what is bubbling beneath the surface, and learn of the possible future implications. Skin analysis technology facilitates ongoing tracking to show what improvements are being made as the treatment progresses. When a person sees themselves in the mirror on a daily basis it can be hard to recognise cumulative improvement. Being able to show how the treatment is working at a deeper level, combined with photos at each session to show the visible differences will keep a client engaged and excited, and minimise the risk of mid-protocol push-back such as “this isn’t working”, “I’m wasting my money”, etc. A good example of this technology is the Observ diagnostic device, with five

skin analysis modes - including Daylight, simulated Woods Lamp and True UV Illumination - to assess irregularities (such as wrinkles and enlarged pores) and pigment conditions both on and under the surface. LED polychromatic technology captures a clear, multi-dimensional image of the highlighted facial areas. Observ has a smart phone and iPad cradle so clinical reference pictures can be taken immediately. Skin analysis can be a lifesaver for a business and also literally for a client. Margaret Walsh, an Auckland-based clinic owner who distributes Observ in New Zealand and Australia, recounts how a man in his late 60s coming to the clinic for treatment on a large discolouration on his forehead. “He was looking for laser or IPL to reduce the pigmented lesion,” Margaret says. “I assessed him with Observ first and saw something very wrong below the surface. I suggested he immediately see his doctor. “By the next morning in was in hospital for surgery to remove a melanoma." Observ, you might say, probably saved his life.” MARGARETWALSHCONSULTING.CO.NZ

HEADING

Crackdown on cosmetic cowboys Leading figures of the Australian cosmetic medicine industry are calling for government action following the death of a woman after a botched breast job

ie Shao, 33, had been in Australia for five days from China on a tourist visa and had no Australian medical qualifications when she performed an unorthodox breast enhancement procedure on Sydney clinic manager Jean Huang, 35, in late August. Paramedics were called to the Medi Beauty clinic in Sydney’s Chippendale when Jean stopped breathing during the

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procedure and subsequently went into cardiac arrest. She died in Royal Prince Alfred Hospital two days later. Shao initially appeared in Sydney’s Central Local Court on August 31 charged with recklessly inflicting bodily harm and using a poison so as to endanger life. The charges were upgraded the following week to manslaughter. In refusing bail, magistrate Sharon Freund said Shao had made admissions related to the administration of local anaesthetic (the intoxicating substances tramadol, an opioid pain medication, and lidocaine, a local anaesthetic) via a catheter and drip as well as an injection into Ms Huang’s chest, and “breast fillers” between 1.30-3.30pm on Wednesday, August 30, despite not being a licensed medical practitioner in Australia. Magistrate Freund said she believed the prosecution case was a strong one and if convicted Ms Shao faced a lengthy jail term.

The tragedy has galvanised the cosmetic medical community, which has already been agitating for more stringent controls for several years. Because they are now so commonplace, many people either do not understand, or they underestimate the ramifications nonsurgical treatments such as anti-wrinkle and dermal filler injections (and associated medicines used with them) can have, and especially in the hands of untrained, unqualified, unregistered, unethical or otherwise inexperienced clinicians. The fact is, anti-wrinkle and dermal filler formulations are literally regarded as poisons. They are prescription medicines and should only be administered by a qualified, registered doctor or a specialist nurse practitioner with prescribing rights under a doctor’s auspices. Many medical products used in cosmetic procedures, such as botulinum toxin (eg.

MEDI

Botox), collagen, hyaluronic acid (eg. Juvederm, Restylane), other non-permanent fillers and lignocaine (local anaesthetic), are classified in the Poisons Schedule as S4 drugs. Leading cosmetic physician Dr Cath Porter says that it is the responsibility of ethical cosmetic medical and aesthetics professionals to reinforce this to their patients/clients and uphold all standards for their safety and wellbeing. “ [Jean Huang’s case] is a worst nightmare scenario in cosmetic medical terms. S4 medications must be prescribed by a doctor and medical back-up should be available, no matter how minor the procedure may be. It shows just how terribly wrong things can go.” If your salon, spa or clinic doesn’t offer injectable services to clients but you know they are considering having these procedures, you will gain even more trust and respect by guiding them as to what they should be looking out for. “Suggest to your clients that they check with medical colleges such as the Australasian College of Cosmetic Surgery (ACCS) or the Cosmetic Physicians College of Australia (CPCA) as to the qualifications of the practitioner they are thinking of visiting,” says Dr Porter. “When they do present for an appointment they should expect a thorough consultation as to their aesthetic concerns and desires and a health assessment re their suitability as a candidate before anything is performed. “They have a right to ask the practitioner what their qualifications are, and how much training/experience they have had as a cosmetic injector. Also, what products are being used, to ensure they are TGA-approved.” Practitioners must also be able to show evidence of informed consent. Dr Porter stresses that price (as in the cheapest) should never be an overriding factor when deciding who to choose as an injector. Suspiciously cheap offers may be just that – suspicious. It may indicate that the products being offered are illicitly obtained (likely online) with no proof of the safety or efficacy of their ingredients and/or the treatments are being performed by “unprofessionals”. “It’s no good having a beautiful face on a dead body,” quips Dr Porter. If your aesthetics business is considering employing the services of a cosmetic injector, Dr Porter urges you to ensure that injector is not only qualified and highly

Jean Huang is taken my ambulance from the Medi Beauty clinic in Sydney's Chippendale on August 30. She died in Royal Prince Alfred Hospital two days later. Picture: Nine News

Jie Shao (pictured at Surry Hills police station after her arrest), who performed the procedure on Jean Huang, has been charged with manslaughter and risks a lengthy jail sentence after the matter returns to court. Picture: Nine News

experienced in the art of cosmetic injecting but also registered in Australia. “Remember an event like the one in court today is a disaster all round. Most of all for the person who has suffered the medical incident, but then legally/financially for the business at stake and a devastating loss of reputation that could spell the end of that business, even if they are ultimately not found at fault. “Always remember that you as salon, spa and clinic owners are liable, as well as the clinician who has performed the treatment. “When you are providing these services you are completely responsible for a patient’s/client’s health. I always call to mind the most basic premise I was taught as a student doctor: `Do no harm’. “When a patient sees a registered practitioner they know they are receiving care from someone who is appropriately trained and held to account to national standards. “If you see someone who is not registered, you just don’t know what you’re getting. “From my point of view [people risking procedures with `backyard’ operators] is absolutely crazy behaviour.”

DON’T GO OUT OF YOUR DEPTH Dr Russell Knudsen, speaking on behalf of the ACCS, said the organisation has long warned

that beauty salons are out of their depth when it comes to providing cosmetic injections like anti-wrinkle injections and dermal fillers. “In the unlikely event of an adverse reaction, you have to have medicalgrade resuscitation equipment available immediately and that’s not going to happen in a beauty salon,” Dr Knudsen said. “If they are being done in a non-medical setting like a beauty salon or a so-called Botox party that we hear about, that is completely unacceptable.” Dr Knudsen said any beauty salon that has hired a cosmetic nurse must ensure a registered doctor is involved in the consultation process. “It may be breaching the law depending on the contact between the patient and the doctor who is the person responsible for the prescribing of the medication,” he said. “There are always risks – you need a comprehensive medical history of the patient to make sure they are not going to react or be aggravated. “We fully support any regulations that enhance standards.” About 1000 beauty salons offer cosmetic injections like Botox around Australia in an industry worth $1 billion per year, according to Tina Viney from the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network. Ms Viney said salon owners have a duty of care to carefully check the credentials of anyone injecting governmentregulated substances. “If a therapist would like to introduce an injector, they [should be] either a doctor with experience or training in that area or registered nurse that has qualifications in injecting,” she said.

NEED FOR ENFORCEMENTS According to Dr Danae Lim, a practitioner with 12 years’ experience in both emergency and cosmetic medicine: “It is actually not the lack of regulation of the cosmetic medicine industry, but the lack of enforcement due to jurisdiction limitations.” Dr Lim runs the HD Cosmetic Clinic, a “leading provider of cutting edge nonsurgical anti-ageing treatments” in Sydney’s Alexandria that focuses on Asian aesthetics. “Legitimate providers will always comply with regulations, going above and beyond to make sure patients are safe,” says Dr Lim. “AHPRA can only regulate medical practitioners and lack jurisdiction over nonmedical personnel. s pa a n d cl i n i c.co m.a u | 81

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“Only when a criminal offence is committed do the police step in, by which time it is already too late. The illegal sale of restricted medications over the internet has been unbridled for some time, not to mention blatant advertising of overseas doctors as qualified medical specialists performing procedures in many beauty establishments, but is extremely difficult to investigate and prosecute. “It is not likely that any Australian registered medical practitioner would have made the same mistake [as in Jean Huang’s case]. “Due to the growth of the cosmetic medicine industry over the last five years or so, many have tried to ride the wave, including an exponential growth in the illegal practitioners with an epicentre mostly in the [Sydney] inner city areas in the past two to three years. “Some of the illegal home practices are now so popular, one actually has a `clinic’ in the retail area now. “Some perform procedures nurses are not authorised to perform at all, and do home or hotel visits. “Even legal practitioners over-treat in order to make a quick buck, but that’s not relevant in this particular case. “There are wholesalers advertising fake drugs with the exact same packaging as the legitimate medications, origin unknown, 82 | SPA+CLINIC

The onus is on the patient to prove misrepresentation, which is why the NSW Health Care Complaints Commission has been powerless to punish illegal practitioners and no one has died until now. and people have started home businesses doing cosmetic injections and surgery, with very aggressive advertising on Wechat, which does not offer the kind of robust monitoring system or controls that would make accountability less challenging. “Shut one down and then it registers with another handle, re-establishes business

very quickly due to the demand. It is very hush-hush: only people referred by people they know can enter those circles. “Under Australian law, as long as there is no misrepresentation and the patient has fully consented, anyone can undergo any procedure by any practitioner. “The onus is on the patient to prove misrepresentation, which is why the NSW Health Care Complaints Commission has been powerless to punish illegal practitioners and no one has died until now. “Until a criminal act is committed, the police cannot step in. There is a gap in the legislation and jurisdiction. “Increasing the regulations for legitimate providers may not achieve much as we will always comply – accreditation of facilities, resuscitation equipment, continuing medical education – we already do most if not all of these. What of the illegals or rogue operators? “Years ago, any business attempting to get registered as a clinic needed to show the AHPRA registration of the doctor in charge. “Now any person can register a clinic as a business. Off-site supervision using teleconferencing without the doctor ever examining the patient is accepted, so who physically takes charge of a resuscitation if something untoward happens?”

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MEDI

TIME TO BE LASER SHARP The Laser Health and Safety Standard – to now include IPL – is being overhauled for the first time since 2004, and will have significant ramifications for the medi-cosmetic and aesthetics industry.

he recent spate of medi-cosmetic disasters, involving the Standards are expected to be released imminently.” injectable products (eg. the death of Jean Huang in Elissa is a highly experienced clinician, educator and the September, see page 60) and the horrific outcomes for lead author of the first-ever Australian standards and scope three women of botched laser treatments that featured on of practice document for cosmetic nursing and RN consultant national TV (see page 63) has drawn searing attention to to the Australasian College of Cosmetic Surgeons. the need for greater policing of these procedures. Elissa O’Keefe IF A MISHAP GOES TO COURT Although unrelated to the incidents featured on Seven’s Patient/client safety, wellbeing and optimum outcomes of Today Tonight, The Laser Health and Safety Standard* – to course should be the foremost consideration of any business, which now include IPL – is being overhauled for the first time since 2004, can be achieved by abiding by the Standard, says Elissa, but being and will have significant ramifications for salons, spas and clinics. observant of regulations and what is required by them can save that In essence, it means that it’s vital for patient safety and the business from disaster. viability of a business that any salon, spa or clinic offering laser Those who knowingly ignore or flout regulations deserve all they or IPL treatments be laser sharp in respect of the training and get, but some business owners/therapists with all good intentions competency of staff operating lasers and IPLs – or prepare for may not be fully aware of what their responsibilities are. And even potentially brutal consequences. those who are fully aware and abide by those responsibilities can “The objective of this Standard is to specify requirements for the land in trouble despite all due care. safe use of lasers and intense light sources, including Intense Pulsed “If legal action is taken by an injured or disgruntled patient/ Light (IPL) for diagnostic, cosmetic and therapeutic uses in health client, a business has a far greater chance if they can show proof of care facilities (including hospitals, private medical facilities and having done all the right things. dental practices) and the cosmetic industry,” says Elissa O’Keefe, “Under the principles of workplace health and safety, the managing director of Bravura Education, provider of education for management (employer) of a salon, spa or clinic has the ultimate technologies for cosmetics, surgery and podiatry, such as lasers, IPL responsibility for safety, but the laser user and operator carry and other energy-based devices. responsibility for immediate safety during laser procedures. “The final meeting of the committee was in early October and 84 | SPA+CLINIC

Exceptional laser and IPL safety courses “Following the Standards is a bit like being accountable to the results of a fancy cake if you are following a recipe. If your cake sinks in the middle or the icing tastes awful and you have followed the recipe then you can hold your hand on your heart and say you did everything but the cake wasn’t great and you’re sorry. “But if the recipe (Standard) says to use self-raising flour and you use plain, or you leave the sugar out of the icing completely then you are responsible for the poor outcome. “Clients and prosecutions lawyers aren’t interested in cakes of course but are very interested in seeking reparation if you caused an adverse event that should have been prevented. “Not following Standards contravenes workplace health and safety law and is negligence. It will not be tolerated in a court of law. “Imagine, if when building your house, the builder neglected to follow the standards for the materials they used and you had asbestos, leaky pipes and dangerously thin glass in your windows. How would that feel?”

WHERE RESPONSIBILITY LIES Elissa says the responsibility for the safety of clients and the attending therapist during the use of lasers falls equally upon the management of the salon, spa or clinic, the administration, the therapists using the equipment, and all staff concerned with its operation and maintenance. “It is mandatory for salons, spas and clinics to have criteria and policies that are explicit about the continuing education and training that will be required for determining their technicians are competent,” she says. “Only competent personnel shall be permitted to operate lasers and laser systems. Criteria for certification is to be established by the facility, based on the type of equipment and its applications, practice setting and procedure. At present there is one national document regarding safe use of lasers: the Guide to the Safe use of Lasers in Health Care AS/NZS 4173:2004. “It is certain that regulations will become much more stringent – and more vigorously enforced. Therefore it is vital for practice owners/managers with these devices that they and their clinicians are operating them within existing guidelines, that they are using the right devices for their level of qualification, and ensure that they have the appropriate qualifications and training.”

MINIMUM QUALIFICATIONS According to Elissa: "As a minimum, laser and/or IPL technicians will be required to have successfully completed an accredited laser/ IPL safety certificate, have an understanding of how the specific device they are using works and have had some supervised practice by a senior mentor to ensure that they are competent. "The Standard mandates that the criteria for certification of competency is to be established by the facility, based on the type of equipment and its applications, practice setting and procedure. "This means too that you will need standard operating policy and procedure (SOPP) documents that are explicit about how you manage this and other aspects of laser/IPL use in your workplace and that these will be kept at each laser use site." Bravura Education is going to offer a bespoke SOPP service as one of its consultancy offerings in the near future.

Surgical

Cosmetic

Podiatry

» Online » In your own time » No need for travel or take time off work » Personalised support » Be safe » Know your systems » Comply with regulations » Understand light physics » Practically apply your knowledge

User friendly processes that ensure completion of your course or your fees refunded.

Endorsed and recognised by Radiation Health Departments and professional bodies.

BRAVURAEDUCATION.COM

* The Standard was prepared by the Joint Standards Australia/Standards New Zealand Sub-Committee HE-003-12, Lasers in Medical Procedures, under the responsibility of Committee HE-003, Medical Electrical Equipment, to supercede AS/NZS 4173:20

Elissa O’Keefe RN NP FFACNP MACN

www.bravuraeducation.com

STOCK UP

FOR SUMMER Hot products for the sunny season, festive and party season

TROPICAL TREATS Pure Fiji made a triumphant return to Beauty Expo Australia in August after five years, with a standout exhibit from which sublime tropical scents emanated throughout the show floor. Attendees came in droves to stock up on their favorite natural bath and body care products as well as the Australian launch of Pure Fiji’s latest signature scent, Coconut Lime Blossom. Salon, spa and clinic owners couldn’t get enough of the eagerly anticipated new infusion, with most of the Coconut Lime Blossom range selling out on Day 1 of Expo. Visiting Fijian team members were a big hit with the crowd, performing incredible Signature Foot Rituals and playing Fijian melodies throughout the weekend. The base of each Pure Fiji range is the essential oils from four tropical nut oils – dilo, sikeci, coconut and macadamia. In the Coconut Lime Blossom range, these oils are then blended with fresh coconut milk, zesty lime and lime blossom. Coconut has myriad skin-enhancing benefits that help to soften, hydrate, soothe and protect the skin, while lime is rich in powerful antioxidants like vitamin C to help boost collagen production. The incredible infusion of these antioxidants help particularly to tighten pores, remove dry skin cells and brighten skin tone. Skin is also hydrated with a refreshing blend of pure leaf hydrosols which offer skin protection and anti-ageing benefits. With a complete body care range available including a Hydrating Body Lotion, Body Butter, Exotic Oil, Sugar Rub, Shower Gel, Bath Soak, Hand Crème, Body Mist, Spa Soap and Gift sets, as well as a new professional body treatment, Pure Fiji’s Coconut Lime Blossom Signature Line is your clients’ ticket to hydrated, radiant and glowing skin. AU.PUREFIJI.COM

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Alpeor skincare combines rare alpine plants and innovative technology in a signature range that embodies the best of Switzerland. The products are formulated using the exclusive BioPhyto-Complex (BPC) technology. Each Alpeor product, such as the Purifying Rescue Mask (pictured), is based on a carefully selected formula of plant extracts, and then enriched with coactive elements to achieve its particular purpose. Products also feature the revolutionary Cellper Complex (that combines several innovative active ingredients such as dual source meristem and peptide P+ in order to promote the quality and vitality of skin cells) and Resor Complex. ALPEOR.COM

Anti-ageing skincare line DNA Renewal, created by worldrenowned LA dermatologist Dr Ronald Moy, introduces the DNA Restoring Mask. This researchbased treatment works to instantly refresh the skin without any irritation. It delivers instant hydration to improve the texture and appearance of skin, minimising fine lines with DNA repair enzymes and vitamins E and C for sun damage protection and repair. The formula helps boost cellular renewal for instant glow, eliminating dullness for a refreshed, vibrant appearance. DNA repair enzymes delivered through liposomes to deeply penetrate the skin and help reduce sun damage. ADVANCEDCOSME CEUTICALS.COM.AU

SPOTLIGHT

SUPREMELY EFFECTIVE

At Beauty Expo in August Ginger&ME launched the first 12 products in their retail face range, G&M Neurocomedics, built on 21st century clean and sophisticated formulations, exotic, botanical actives, and a focus on corneotherapy (thou shall do no harm). The founders of Ginger&ME are MarieEnna Cocciolone and Nicola Quinn. Marie is the founder of Australia’s professional cosmedical skincare range, O Cosmedics and the CEO of InSkin Cosmedics. Nicola is the CEO of Quinn International, the umbrella company of PRO-Beauty and more recently PRO-Medical as well as the owner and founder of Nicola Quinn Day Spa in Christchurch, NZ. INSKINCOSMEDICS.COM

New Medik8 Eyelift is an intensive creamserum that fights the major signs of ageing. The awardwinning original has been boosted with new and stronger actives, including five peptides. It helps to significantly reduce the appearance of puffiness, dark circles, deep wrinkles and fine lines. Over time it improves skin firmness while hydrating and deeply nourishing the delicate skin around the eyes. Eyelift also provides immediate visible lifting and smoothing, as well as well as radiance thanks to light reflecting pigments. Medik8 Eyelift also absorbs quickly, and is non-greasy, so it can be applied underneath makeup in the morning without smudging. MEDIK8.COM.AU

At the PAYOT-owned laboratories in Paris a team of doctors, scientists, pharmacists, dermatologists, galenic engineers and toxicologists provide innovation with ingredient formulation and technology. PAYOT creates its own formulations with medical and cosmeceutical-grade ingredients and complexes, and for more than 20 years PAYOT Laboratories have been using an exclusive PAYOT Biotechnology (a technological method of transformation, using natural ingredient complexes). The company has developed three new products to enhance its antiageing ranges. Supreme Jeunesse Essence, a primer, is the first step in the Supreme Jeunesse ritual. This silky essence containing five rare flowers and hyaluronic acid activates the efficiency of the other care products in the range. It softens and plumps the skin while smoothing its texture. Magnolia and orchid extracts compensate for the skin’s overworked natural defences caused by “inflammaging”, protecting it from oxidative stress; hibiscus AHA refines and smoothes the texture; white lily water comforts, softens and delivers suppleness; nasturtium extract improves the movement of oxygen between skin cells to boost their metabolism and increase the efficiency of the active ingredients in other care products. . Perform Vitality Lift joins the Perform Lift line that offers a range of lifting and lipo-scuplting products to combat skin slackening. Key ingredients include nasturtium extract and the patented Mineral Complex to improve the movement of oxygen between skin cells; wakame extract, a brown algae which stimulates the production of elastic fibres; patented Renovating Peptide to strengthen the cohesion of the dermoepidermal junction; two patented HAs; micro-droplets of comforting oils and soft-focus pearls for unrivalled radiance. Techni Lisse Cica Expert joins the Techni Lisse smoothing and corrective range to combat the first signs of ageing with targeted action on the wrinkle formation process. This moisturising and soothing balm is ideal for care after a procedure (peels, needling, laser and injections). At the heart of the formula is HA; D-Panthenol to help repair the skin barrier, diminish roughness; Centella Asiatica, known in Chinese medicine for its healing and anti-inflammatory properties; malachite, used in skincare practices in ancient Egypt to soothe pain. This cream improves the appearance of scars and reduces discomfort. PAYOT.COM/AU/EN

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SPOTLIGHT

Many retinol formulas that rely on a single form of retinol may take several weeks to deliver results and cause irritation. Legendary cosmeceutical pioneer and founder of the famous skincare line that bears his name, LA-based dermatologist Dr Howard Murad, has perfected the science of retinol with a new breakthrough serum powered by Retinol TriActive Technology (see Page 70). It features a fast-acting retinoid (the purest and most active form of Vitamin A that converts to retinoic acid in the skin), a timereleased retinol, and a retinol booster. The range comprises Retinol Youth Renewal Night Cream (pictured), Resurgence Retinol Youth Renewal Serum and Retinol Youth Renewal Eye Serum. MURAD.COM

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Spanish skincare Mesoestetic’s latest innovation, aox ferulic, provides a biological shield against oxidation produced by UVB, UVA, IR and visible light (HEV), pollution and ozone, and adverse lifestyle factors. It helps prevent and work against oxidative cell damage while protecting fibroblasts and improving collagen fibre synthesis. Aox ferulic also protects the natural antioxidant system and barrier function of skin, helping to prevent photoand chrono-ageing. providing protection of fibroblasts against UVA radiation. Ingredients include Protech-Cell Complex, an exclusive complex of vitamin E plus a synthetic active ingredient for advanced antioxidant protection. ADVANCEDCOSME CEUTICALS.COM.AU

An active bio-lipid moisturising formula designed to visibly plump, smooth and restore suppleness to dehydrated and acutely dry skin, Ultra MD Ultimate Bio Repair Moisturiser is an ideal post-treatment product to help soothe and condition skin during the recovery period. It features an intense biomimetic hydrating formula to help support the lipid barrier. Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF) ingredients (D-panthenol and sodium hyaluronate) provide vital hydration to the skin. Additional moisturisers (shea butter, cholesterol, glycerin, camellia seed oil) soothe skin. ULTRAMD.COM.AU

Developed by pro spray tan artist Natasha Mikhaylova, Ms.Lova Tanning Mousse combines the benefits of luxury skincare in an easy-to-apply vegan, organic, cruelty free and non-sticky mousse for a sun-kissed faux glow on all skin types. It’s boosted with antioxidants, vitamins C and E, and aloe vera to nourish skin while the tan develops. “We use high-quality organic, vegan ingredients and we make our natural mousse in Australia so that we can tightly control the whole process,” says Natasha. MSLOVA.COM

Nee Make Up Milan is a professional line created and developed by professionals and used by some of the world’s leading MUAs. It boasts a tantalising array of foundation textures, lipsticks, bronzers and blushers, eye colours and nail polishes. It's skin primer with SPF50+. Its Nee Make Up Perfection UV Multi-Base Primer SPF50+ has a creamy but ultra-light formula that hydrates and evens out the complexion while creating a perfect base for a makeup that lasts. At the same time it helps protect skin from the ravages of sun, pollution and ageing. Nee Make Up was founded in the early 1990s in Lissone, a small town near Milan. It is now a powerful force on the global professional makeup scene. JESSICACOSMETICS. COM.AU

Stylish robes and slippers are a must for a great customer experience and perfect for retail

YOUR PERSONAL SHOPPER For more than 20 years Kellie Baker worked within salons and day spas, the majority as a business development manager and trainer for Pevonia Australasia. “During that time I was fortunate to see great methods and beauty tools,” she says. "I have also been lucky to stay in many of the world’s amazing resorts. “I have also operated a side business with my husband; clothing brand Good to Go Gear. After manufacturing it in and importing from China I realised there was a great opportunity for the aesthetics industry." De’Veneys was born De’Veneys is an online shopping portal with an eclectic array of merchandise for salons, spas and clinics – from beauty accessories and tools to hair and body brushes, robes and slippers, nifty giftware ideas for retail and decor touches. “We’re based in Brisbane but are able to deliver anywhere in the world, especially bulk

orders. I bring businesses the opportunity to purchase in bulk at direct-to-source prices, taking away the stress of dealing with a factory and not getting what you wanted. “I will communicate with my team in Suzhou to ensure you receive not just quality products and great service but also the opportunity to get Original Equipment Manufacturer products. Buyers have the option to start with small orders." Kellie is committed to helping salons, spas and clinics maximise their retail opportunities and keep their customers happy. “I suggest to clients that they consider offering their VIP clients little gifts for special occasions, for instance their birthday or at Christmas, that make them feel valued. “I often suggest our customised crystal wine stoppers for these purposes. They look very stylish but are also practical. At present you can buy 100 stoppers for less than $6 each". DEVENEYS.COM.AU

The batteryoperated Eye Wand is an invaluable tool to combat dryness, lines and wrinkles, puffiness and dark circles

Customised crystal wine stoppers make a lovely gift for valued clients

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The ethos behind makeup brands is becoming a significant factor in people’s choice of products: the demand for eco-conscious products that are healthy for the skin and body. One that’s become the biggie in 2017 – products that are not tested on animals. By Jenni Gilbert.

e have a very unique, emotional relationship with makeup (if we’re makeup lovers, that is!). It’s not just pretty paint; it’s an expression of our personality and the face we want to present to the world, literally and figuratively, on any given day. It makes us feel good about ourselves generally, perks us up on a bad day,

gives us that extra burst of confidence for an important meeting or special occasion, and, if we suffer skin flaws that cause selfconsciousness, it’s a panacea to the soul and ego to be able to cover them up, or at least minimise them before we face the world. But the ethos behind makeup brands is becoming a significant factor in people’s

choice of products: the demand for ecoconscious products that are healthy for the skin and body (no nasties), contain sustainable and natural ingredients to a significant degree, if not entirely. And one that’s become the biggie in 2017 – products that are not tested on animals a practice that usually causes them devastating distress and harm. “Even if wearing lipstick isn't your thing, you probably use a number of toiletry and personal care products - from soap, shampoo and toothpaste, to deodorant, moisturiser or shaving cream,” says consumer watchdog Choice. “To establish their safety, though, some of these products may have been tested on animals. And for a lot of people, smelling nice just isn't worth that price. So how can consumers work out which products are tested on animals? And what are the alternatives to animal testing? “Australia doesn't require cosmetics to be tested on animals, as long as suppliers can provide evidence for their ingredients' safety. “In fact, with a growing global trend towards the banning of cosmetics that are tested on animals (the European Union, India and Israel have led the charge), there are moves afoot for Australia to follow suit. “There are many ways to establish a cosmetic product's safety without the use of live animals, such as:

Mexican actress Sofia Sisniega is a poster girl for PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) in South America. PETA is the largest animal rights organisation in the world, with more than 6.5 million members and supporters. Photo courtesy PETA.ORG.AU

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Photo: Gilles Toucas • Hair: Sean James, for Phyto Hair Care/T3 • Makeup: Anthony Merante, for Celestine Agency • Bodypainting: Nelly Recchia, for Aim Artists • Bunny: © Dreamstime.com/Stefan Andronache

DON’T BE CRUEL!

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• In-vitro techniques involving donated human tissue or cell cultures using donated human corneas from eye banks, or synthetic or reconstructed human skin • Using human volunteers • Computer modelling and maths simulation programs, for example to predict a chemical's toxicity or irritancy and its likely interaction with other compounds, based on what's known already about substances with a similar structure. “Third party certification is what to look for when shopping for cruelty-free cosmetics “There are several independent third parties that certify products as having not been tested on animals, including Choose Cruelty Free, the Leaping Bunny and PETA. “These organisations compile lists of companies that sign statutory declarations promising they do not test nor allow others to test on their behalf any products or ingredients on animals. “They do not certify companies that sell their products in markets like China, where animal testing is required. “However, it's important to note that in some cases even companies that abstain from the Chinese market may be penalised by the certifiers on the basis of their parent company's stance on animal testing. “Avoid products with 'new' or 'improved' ingredients if you can't establish that they haven't been tested on animals.” SPA+CLINIC spoke to some purveyors of products who are passionate about anti-cruelty. “At Lycogel we believe that beauty and health are one and the same,” says Caroline Johns, a spokesperson for the “conceal while you heal” makeup brand. “When people buy Lycogel, they’re not just getting long-lasting coverage, they’re also making an investment in the longterm condition of their skin. “For this reason, at Lycogel we ensure that no animal-sourced materials are used in any of our products. “Instead, we developed the revolutionary LYCO-Complex which contains a carefully balanced set of 12 active ingredients that work together to deliver oxygen, moisture and nutrients to the skin. The high quality active ingredients in all Lycogel products include antioxidants, hyaluronic acid as well as plant extracts such as Centella Asiatica (aka “Tiger Grass”), barley, sandalwood and bark extracts, as well as squalene which is produced from olives.

“Lycogel products were originally developed to be used by doctors immediately after most cosmetic procedures to camouflage the signs of intervention, enabling patients to resume their normal activities in the shortest possible time. For this reason, the 12 active ingredients in the LYCO Complex are formulated specifically to counteract heat sensation, swelling and to camouflage any bruising or redness while providing skin with soothing relief. “Our products are hypoallergenic and suited for even the most sensitive skin conditions. They can even be applied to heavily irritated skin or after a skin treatment, surgery or burn wounds – and will support the healing of skin. “However, the benefits of this unique formula have also made Lycogel a product that is perfect to use as everyday makeup, with active ingredients delivering skincare benefits for all types of skin conditions including acne, pigmentation, sensitive skin, rosacea or for anti-ageing.” LYCOGEL.COM.AU

ALLURING BEST When NSW Central Coast mum of five Cher Donaldson, 35, found herself spending more than she felt comfortable with on makeup that fit her values (natural, cruelty-free etc), what to do but create her own range! There’s an old proverb that “necessity is the mother of invention”, and in Cher’s case that was literally the story behind her cult mineral makeup brand, Alluring Minerals, launched in 2013. Passionate about all things natural to promote good health, Cher made sure Alluring Minerals products are full of goodies and no nasties, financially accessible and suit all ages and skin types and cruelty free. The quality, textures and colours are sublime, as team SPA+CLINIC can attest personally. “I researched and researched, focusing solely on suppliers with the same ethos as me - all-natural, cruelty-free cosmetics, using only the highest quality ingredients,” Cher says. “My aim was to be able to give all women who love makeup and skincare access to natural, organic, high quality cosmetics at an accessible price. “We’re also very passionate about raising awareness around cruelty free

cosmetics, and proving that animal testing is completely unnecessary. “We are extremely careful in sourcing products that are never tested on animals. “Alluring Minerals is 100% cruelty free. It breaks our hearts that cosmetic companies are still using this barbaric practice, and supposedly in the name of beauty.” Cher found a company in South

Australia to help formulate her initial products, notably loose powder mineral foundation, primers and blushers. All of these she sold and still sells online “but my next step, hope and dream is to sell into salons, spas and clinics for professional use and on-selling to their customers,” she says. She still works with the South Australian

company and subsequently two in the US, the production of formulations split roughly 50/50. The range has expanded exponentially, with trial and error, and enthusiastic customer feedback re likes and dislikes to include liquid foundations, lipsticks, lip glosses, bronzers, eyeshadows and – a year ago – a skincare line. ALLURINGMINERALS.COM.AU

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HEADING

2 1

1 Skindinavia Post Makeup Sensory Spray. ADVANCEDCOSME CEUTICALS.COM.AU

2 Youngblood mineral makeup loose powder, liquid foundation and lipstick. PROBEAUTYSOLUTIONS. COM.AU 3 Nee Milano liquid bronzer and lipsticks (see more re the brand, in Spotlight, Page 88). JESSICACOSMETICS. COM.AU

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5 Lycogel’s “conceal while you heal” makeup and concealer for both post treatment and everyday use. ADVANCEDCOSME CEUTICALS.COM.AU

4 Blinc eyeliner, to complement the brand’s innovative, water-resistant mascara that has tube-technology for maximum hold (and washes off with water). INTBEAUTY.COM.AU

7 7 LaGlam Minerals primer, blush brush and Chandelier cream highlighter. LAGLAMCOSMETICS. COM

6 Australia’s Smitten Cosmetics’ highlighters. SMITTENCOSMETICS. COM.AU

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Reverse French manicures popularised by 1930s and 40s screen sirens has made a comeback

UPSIDE DOWN FRENCH CHIC The French manicure is a timeless favourite – but with funky new twists for Summer 2017

lassic French manicures look great all year round – but is especially fresh-looking for the summer months. It makes nails look clean and beautiful and the wearer well groomed, and can be worn with everything from ballgowns to jeans. Clients will never go wrong with a classic French manicure, whether for dressy or casual occasions, important meetings or special events. Another great thing that, if applied properly, it has a very durable finish and doesn’t show wear and tear as easily as brighter or darker colours. But now we have the reverse French manicure and some variations on the theme that will be hot this Summer and party season, according to Kim Oliver from OPI Professional. 96 | SPA+CLINIC

And they won’t be solely reliant on pinks and whites. Bolds, brights and metallics, sparkles and jewels are all now on the agenda. Says Kim: “French manicures will always be the `classic’ in the world of nails and manicure but these French manicure alternatives will spice up your clients’ nails but still look elegant: Reverse French: The traditional French mani is all about highlighting the nail tips. The reverse french manicure involves painting the circular moon shape of your nail bed in a contrasting shade to the rest of your nail. It was popularised by screen sirens of the 1930s and 40 such as Joan Crawford, Rita Hayworth, and Veronica Lake and has made a comeback with contemporary celebs like Jennifer Lopez, Dita Von Teese and Rihanna. The look can be achieved using two complementary shades or two completely contrasting shades.

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The reverse French manicure involves painting the circular moon shape of your nail bed in a contrasting shade to the rest of your nail.

Poolside Chillin’

If you’re not ready to take a walk on the wilder side, the shades of pink you use will have a dramatic impact on the quality of the look of a traditional French mani – for better or worse. Jessica Cosmetics (see story Page 40) offers a superb range of pinks (as well as a classic white for the tips) in their Phenom range exclusively formulated for salon professionals. “The 3-Step Phenom Polish System delivers fast drying in natural light and a gel-like shine that lasts,” says Rose Bolam, director of Jessica Cosmetic Australia. She personally recommends: • Phenom White French #000 • Phenom Original French #01 • Phenom Pink Dream On #030 • Phenom Pink Angel #038 • Phenom Pink A Boo #039

Vivid Vibes

Silhouette

Purple Party

WHEN YOU’RE KEEPING IT CLASSIC

Pinktastic

OPI.NET.AU

Flamingo Passion

Variations of the Reverse French: • Asymmetric Line BARE IT ALL • Blockage • Balayage TEASE Here are some top tips from Kim Oliver on how to create immaculate Reverse French: • Make sure your nails are properly shaped - almond shaped for long SIMPLY SEXY nails, square for short nails NUDE THRILLS EXPOSED • Cuticles must always be pushed back • Use a good base coat • Ensure that the main coat on nail plate is evenly applied and completely dry before applying the next layer. • Alternatives to your normal nail polish: Gel polish, lacquer and dip.

Peachy Kween

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JESSICA COSMETICS AUSTRALIA

1300 470 648

jessicacosmetics.com.au

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INDEX

ADVERTISERS INDEX ADVANCED COSMECEUTICALS

AFRICOLOGY

ALLURING MINERALS

BABOR

FRONT COVER

BIG REVIEW TV

4,5

BRAVURA EDUCATION

CLINICALPRO SKINCARE

COSMOPROF

CRYOMED

DERMAVIDUALS DEVENYS

EMBODY BEAUTY AND HEALTH EQUIPMENT

FIRM N FOLD

INSKIN

JESSICA NAILS

Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;UNICO

LYCOGEL

MURAD

OBSERV

OMVEDA

OPI PAYOT PURE FIJI

OUTSIDE BACK COVER 18,19 2 ,3

SHORTCUTS

SPA FRESH

SPA VISION

ULTRACEUTICALS

USPA

INSIDE BACK COVER

VANESSA MEGAN

WATERLILY

YOUNGBLOOD

98 | SPA+CLINIC

66, 67

Dip Tap Perfect .

Big Apple Red (and other favorite shades)

in NEW OPI Powder Perfection Bi

enc

am Pink Fl

OPI POWDER PERFECTION

DIPPING SYSTEM

Acrylic nails reinvented. Faster, easier & odour-free. Gel-like shine & weeks of wear. Dries almost instantly, no need to light cure. Easy soak-off wrap removal Natural feeling results 29 iconic OPI shades

Available from OPI Distributors Nationwide • 1800 358 999 • info@intbeauty.com.au • www.intbeauty.com.au

ple

Red