World Of Wine Winter 2019 by The Intermedia Group

Worldof Wine CAMERON DOUGLAS MS

VOLUME 2 WINTER 2019

IT'S A MATCH

CELLAR SECRETS

Food and wine pairs to love

Backstage at the vineyard PLUS finding your favourite drop

WINE LABEL LANGUAGE EXPLAINED

on s Red

e s i R e th

A world first for New Zealand wine Villa Maria named in the Top 3 brands globally Judged by 130 masters of wines, wine writers wine buyers, and journalists â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this is the first time ever a New Zealand wine brand has been named Top 3 in the world.

S E D D O N VI NEYAR D, MAR L B OROUG H

CONTENTS WINTER

WorldofWine

CAMERON DOUGLAS MS

37 Gris-ing the wheels: a bottle of Pinot Gris is a favourite for food matching 39 Coq au vin: Cam picks the best wine for Josh Emett’s delicious chicken dish 40 A Taste of the new: A meeting of minds led to the creation of a new style of fine wine 42 Kiss from a Rosé: Pink is the new black – no matter what shade you choose 7

About the Master Cameron Douglas is – quite literally – the Master of Wine.

8 Roaming the regions How can each region of New Zealand produce such a diverse array of wine? 10 History in the making: A couple’s love of history – and of Pinot Noir led to a dramatic revelation in Marlborough 13 Cellar secrets: Where to find our best winery experiences Cameron enjoying a Hawke's Bay Stonecroft Chardonnay

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18 Wine princess gets her crown: The woman behind the Crown Range story

Dale Spencer dspencer@intermedianz.co.nz

21 What’s in a white? You might know our nation’s top three whites – what’s the fourth?

EDITOR

MANAGING DIRECTOR-PUBLISHER

COVER DESIGNED BY DEBBIE DALE

17 Farm fresh: Slow cooked lamb oyster shoulder makes a perfect winter match for this Pinot Noir

Catherine Milford eatscooksreads@gmail.com ph: 021 823 034 SALES DIRECTOR

Jaqueline Freeman jfreeman@intermedianz.co.nz ph: 0212 867 600 4 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

Focus on Chardonnay

45 Organically speaking: The rise of natural growing techniques is creating some innovative flavours 46 Label language unpicked: Taking time to read a wine label – and those bottle stickers – can be very revealing 48 Shine bright like a sparkle: New Zealand’s top sparkling wines 52 Aromatically speaking: Unfolding the defining flavours of an aromatic wine 55 The romance of reds: New Zealand’s iconic red wine industry is flourishing 57 Perfectly Pinot: Our love story with Pinot Noir is intensifying 60 Mulled wine: Cam’s top wine picks for this delicious winter tipple 64 Beautiful blends: Look to New Zealand reds for some gorgeous style innovation

30 Timeless Tohu Whenua: It’s all about balance for this special Māori vineyard

69 Sweet stuff: Don’t just keep these fine flavours for dessert

32 A Sauvignon for all seasons This Kiwi favourite is breaking new ground

70 Cam’s Back Page: Which wine would you hide behind the velvet curtain?

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YOUR JOURNEY.

Cameron Douglas, MS:

A WORD FROM THE MASTER

elcome to the second edition of World of Wine – we didn’t know if there would be a second but it seems you fine people are keen to know more. Truth is, living in NZ means you’re living in your own exciting world of wine – one that is evolving fast and fabulously. I would simply like to offer some guidance and insights on what to drink and how to get the most out of your vinous promiscuity and wine budget – seems most of what our great little country produces passes over my tasting table so I am likely able to offer an informed opinion. Before we start however, I’d like to explain what a Sommelier is and what they do. It’s no longer a guy in a suit who instructs you on the appropriate tipple (though I do have a wardrobe of exceptionally fine suits). A Sommelier is a trained and knowledgeable professional who is able to manage all aspects of beverage service. By this I mean knowing about anything potable - from water to ingredients for cocktails, from beer to port, from sake to spirits; red, white, pink, sparkling, orange, natural, organic or bio-dynamic wine selections. A Sommelier is your adviser on what to buy, what and how to cellar, when to drink it, and recommendations for food and wine matching. Sommeliers who wear a badge of office may also be the gatekeepers for wine lists in restaurants and hotels, or manage purchasing budgets for collectors.

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Most importantly though, a Sommelier is a professional whose aim is to help you select the right beverage specifically for you. The story doesn’t end here - in fact it’s just beginning. A Sommelier’s role includes helping you discover wines that make you smile, wines that make you want a second glass, wines that make you want to tell the story of when… As I travel around the world, it's become obvious the younger generation are becoming more involved in what and how they drink, and their palates are definitely becoming more discerning. New Zealand’s wine industry is relatively young itself – so we’re well placed to be at the forefront of this trend. We're even making movies about wine now; A Seat At The Table, a movie made by my mates Dave Nash and Simon Mark-Brown in which I make a few appearances, was released at this year's New Zealand International Film Festival. It's already been accepted for the Vancouver Festival and Netflix! The USA movie Somm (about the journey to become a Master Sommelier) has had such an explosion of interest it is now a TV series. My world is a World of Wine – and it’s a great journey – so turn the page and join me.

Cameron Douglas, MS

EDITORIAL

All About

Cameron

Master Sommelier

hile your chances of encountering a Sommelier during a good dining experience are quite high, you’d be hard pressed to find yourself being advised on wine by a Master Sommelier. That’s because there are around only 257 individuals in the world who have earned the title of Master Sommelier from the Court of Master Sommeliers since its inception in 1969. New Zealand is home to just one of these – Cameron Douglas MS. A Sommelier is a wine and beverage professional. If you’re after a specific taste, flavour or a good wine match that’s been created for the food you’re about to tuck into, your Sommelier is the person to talk to. He or she can tell you what wines and beverages are available, any specialised varieties within the restaurant, and perhaps even a wine that isn’t listed on the menu. A Master Sommelier, however, is a whole other barrel of wine. An MS is required to be beyond knowledgeable about every beverage - from wine, sake, spirits, cocktails, fortifieds, beers through to coffee and water. Commonly regarded as the most difficult exam in the world, the title of Master Sommelier is considered to be the highest and most prestigious title available to professional Sommeliers in the world. It is only bestowed on the very few people who first pass (generally over a number of years) through four rigorous levels, then face a series of intense exams - theory, service and tasting, from the Court of Master Sommeliers. And it isn’t open to anyone; these exams are by invitation only.Very few people pass these exams first time around; Cameron

persevered through huge obstacles, and when he passed it was with the top marks in that year. As a Master Sommelier, Cameron can, in moments, identify country, region, topography, winemaking techniques, climate and vineyards, as well as suitable characteristics for pairing, from a single taste. His wine and beverage knowledge enriches his students at AUT University where he is a Senior Lecturer in charge of the Wine and Beverage programme, and takes him around the world, where he regularly teaches, judges, presents at conferences, and has speaking engagements throughout North America, and in London, Australia, South East Asia, China – he is about to add Italy to his list. He is also a regular expert speaker on six star Crystal Cruises. He selects wine for and is part of the NZ Wine Navigator team – an online supplier of NZ wine in the

USA. He lives his life around his enthusiasm for all things beverage – teaching, travelling, tasting and talking. He judges and presents wine regularly in the USA, the UK, Australia and Asia. Cameron writes wine lists for top restaurants around New Zealand, including Hiakai, Huami at SkyCity Auckland, The Lodge Bar in Queenstown, and continues to advise at renowned New York Michelinstarred restaurant The Musket Room, run by Kiwi Matt Lambert. W

What is the points system? The 100-point wine scoring system is used worldwide as a way for wine experts to explain and quantify their thoughts on a wine. The system is based on the American high school marking system, so the scale starts at 50 (rather than 0), and can be broken down as follows: 95–100 Classic: a great wine 90–94 Outstanding: a wine of superior character and style 85–89 Very good: a wine with special qualities 80–84 Good: a solid, well-made wine 75–79 Mediocre: a drinkable wine that may have minor flaws 50–74 Not recommended For more information on Cameron, visit https://www.camdouglasms.com/ WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 7

Walking in a Wine Wonderland FROM NORTHLAND TO CENTRAL OTAGO, NEW ZEALAND WINE REGIONS HAVE A REPUTATION FOR EXCELLENCE. OUR LANDSCAPES PROVIDE A DIVERSE RANGE OF SOILS AND GROWING CONDITIONS, REVEALING SOME UNIQUE FLAVOUR SIGNATURES

ew Zealand has a twohundred-year history in wine which began in 1819 in Kerikeri, Bay of Islands where the first vines were planted by missionary Samuel Marsden. It’s a small region, but Northland has some fine wine producers, including The Landing and Karikari Estate. Stretching from Matakana to Clevedon and across the water to Waiheke, the Auckland region is key for wine production. The soil/ landscape type is volcanic, with a heavy clay influence. The region supports many varieties - from Pinot Gris at Brick Bay Wines, too Air New Zealand Fine Wines of New Zealand varieties Kumeu River Chardonnay and Waiheke Islandbased Stonyridge red blends, and Cabernet Franc from Puriri Hills Estate.Villa Maria, one of New Zealand's premier producers (and also an Air NZ Fine Wine), has a renowned vineyard and winemaking facility at Ihumatao, Mangere. The Waikato and Bay of Plenty form a single wine region. Once well known for its aromatic wine

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production, this is now home to only two significant estates, Ohinemuri and Vilagrad Winery. Gisborne is renowned for being geographically tricky - it’s also well known for its Chardonnay, Viognier, and Sparkling Wine production. It’s home to James and Annie Millton – pioneers of biodynamics and a benchmark in the practice. Undulating hillsides and clay and silty loam soils create primarily fuller-bodied whites, though some Syrah and Merlots are notable. A few favourites for me include Odyssey Wines Chardonnay, Huntaway Gewürztraminer, Spade Oak Albariño, Coopers Creek Chardonnay, Matawhero Chardonnay and Millton Vineyards Syrah. River Sun Nurseries has a significant operation, supplying the majority of grape plant material for New Zealand’s wine sector. The stunning Hawke’s Bay with its free-draining riverstone soil base produces some great wines, with 27 different soil types and one of NZ’s warmest growing seasons, creating pockets of diversity and potential. So many notable producers come

from here - Trinity Hill, Te Mata and Pask Estates with their Syrah stories; Cabernet-led blends and Chardonnay from Villa Maria, Craggy Range, Sacred Hill, Esk Valley and Te Awa Estates. Relatively new to the Bay is Elephant Hill – the wines are high quality, especially in their single vineyard series – and the restaurant offers a sophisticated dining experience. Not so new, yet equally fantastic, is Clearview Estate whose Reserve Chardonnay is outstanding. Part of Wellington province and the southernmost wine region of the North Island is the Wairarapa, where the sub-regions of Gladstone, Masterton, and Martinborough, are located. The region is rich in history – I recently tasted a wine from 1903 grown and made there – thought to be Pinot Noir. The clay loams, gravels and limestones mean it is notably home to fine Pinot Noir, Syrah and Riesling. Many great wine producers create some of our best known brands there: no story of the region is complete without mentioning Ata Rangi, Palliser Estate, Dry River, Escarpment, Martinborough and Schubert wines. A few of

WINES BY REGION

the new(ish) kids on the block making some delicious wines are: Haythornthwaite (Gewürztraminer); Luna Estate, Big Sky, The Elder, Brodie, Julicher and Urlar (all producing excellent Pinots Noir).

The view from Prophet's Rock, Central Otago. Photo credit Paul Pujol

SOUTH ISLAND

At the top of the South Island, Nelson is a small yet significant contributor to our wine story. It has long sunshine hours and the western Moutere Hills provide shelter, though autumn rains can be challenging. The soils vary from riverbed to more clay-based in the hills. Neudorf wines consistently impress with their complexity and true expression of site. Their flagship Chardonnays and Pinots Noir are investment wines, and fans of more aromatic styles should also try their Albariño and Riesling. Other regional producers of note include Blackenbrook (for their Gewürztraminer); Aronui, Brightwater, Renato, Richmond Plains and Rimu Grove – all producing, among other varieties, great Pinot Noir. Marlborough is home to our most significant plantings of Sauvignon Blanc, still the most important variety for NZ. It isn’t difficult to find high quality examples; currently Churton, Mahi, Clos Marguerite, Dog Point, Greywacke and Astrolabe are among my favourite Sauvignon Blanc producers. Marlborough Methode Traditionnelle sparkling wine is outstanding – many examples rivalling its northern hemisphere counterparts. It is individual, and yet a true reflection of place, time and potential – (see page 48 for more on this delightful variety).

No 1 Family Estate, with their family roots in Champagne, are leaders in a growing list of bottlefermented sparkling wine producers. Cloudy Bay (Rosé), Huia (Blanc de Blancs) and Nautilus are also noteworthy producers – all dedicated specialists with a focus on traditional blends and individual expression. Lawson’s Dry Hills, Foxes Island, Clos Marguerite, and Two Rivers are among my favourites in a long (and growing) list of fine Pinot Noir producers. Wines to add to your 'must-try' list from Marlborough must include: Te Whare Ra and Fromm Syrah, Hans Herzog Spirit of Marlborough (Bordeaux Blend), Air NZ Fine Wine Framingham Noble Riesling and Johanneshof Gewürztraminer, pretty much anything from Tohu, and Mahi Chardonnay. Canterbury land has much to offer, with soils of limestone, gravels and clays and a semi-continental climate producing some outstanding and delicious wines. Anything from Pegasus Bay, Pinots Noir and Chardonnay from Pyramid Valley, South Island terroir differs dramatically from its Northern counterpart.

Bell Hill, Tongue in Groove, and Greystone wines should be on your bucket list. Bellbird Spring and Waipara Hills are also producing great examples. With just a handful of producers in the Waitaki Valley region (North Otago) the rugged countryside hides some special vineyard sites and delicious wines – the landscape is challenging and dramatic, and frost is a frequent threat. Pinots Noir from Ostler,Valli and Q wines are among the best in New Zealand. The perseverance in adverse conditions of the owners pays great dividends. Central Otago is arguably New Zealand’s most dramatic and exciting wine region. With many producers of fine Pinots Noir, Riesling, Sparkling wines and Chardonnay, there is a lot to explore in this alpine region. Felton Road, Akarua, Wooing Tree, Rippon, Mount Difficulty, Quartz Reef, Prophets Rock, Peregrine, Rockburn, Gibbston Valley and Misha’s Vineyard are all leader producers. Some of the excellent estates you may be less familiar with include: Akitu, Aurum, Bald Hills, Burn Cottage, Ceres, Domain Road, Grasshopper Rock, Hawkdun Rise, Lamont, Ruru, Perseverance Estate, Mondillo, Mount Edward, Nevis Bluff, Judge Rock and Two Paddocks. Throughout the NZ wine regions, the standards are increasingly high and it is difficult to create a definitive list of the best. I am extremely fortunate that most of the producers provide me with wines to review. I’m seldom disappointed. W WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 9

Brothers in Auntsfield T A TASTE FOR THE UNUSUAL LED TO THE DISCOVERY OF A FAMILY HEIRLOOM IN MARLBOROUGH

he tale of how Auntsfield came to be resembles a movie script. It’s the story of a historical secret, that only reveals itself when the right people discover it, leading to the unearthing of an unlikely surprise, which turns out to be a priceless treasure. Graeme and Linda Cowley knew nothing about wine – other than how to thoroughly enjoy it - when they decided a life change was in order in the late 1990s. Graeme had had a career in the film industry for 30 years, working on several iconic Kiwi movies including Goodbye Pork Pie and Smash Palace, but felt the time was right to move on. “Vineyard development and wine production is much like filmmaking; they are both vertically integrated, from the technical side through to the running of the project, so there were similarities – look how many film professionals buy wineries!” says Graeme. “Going into wine was an attractive change, but not something I knew much about, but we were young enough and confident enough to believe we could learn anything.” The pair set about searching for somewhere unique; any old vineyard wouldn’t do. “It had to be somewhere special, something that felt magic,” explains Graeme, who had decided on pinot noir. After several fruitless trips to winerich areas like Central Otago and Martinborough, an old film industry colleague suggested they look at a hillside in Marlborough. Different to anything else they had seen, the site had steep hills, no accessible water, wasn’t for sale by the current owner, and had no grapes growing

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on it. “Mum and Dad basically took a punt,” says Ben Cowley, Graeme and Linda’s son, who works as the viticulturalist and managing director at Auntsfield alongside his brother Luc, Auntsfield’s winemaker. “The real estate agents were getting very frustrated; they’d shown them so many places that were perfect for growing grapes, and now they wanted to buy somewhere based on the ‘feel’.” After much negotiation, the Cowleys secured the land; now it was time to see if they could actually grow vines. “My colleague had spent a lot of time studying the local environment, and he thought it was doable, but no-one knew how to plant on the hills,” says Graeme. “We dug big holes in a grid pattern across the site, which I jumped down and photographed. We discovered there was a variety of soils, and the hills affected where the wind and the heat was; it was perfect. Someone had mentioned to me they thought the grapes would grow fine because they had a vague recollection of something being there in the old days, but with no other planted vines visible from the highest point of the hill looking north, it was a gamble.” With no water on the property, finding it was crucial to the project. A local old-timer proved indispensable when he suggested they’d have some success on the top north-western section of the property. Hillside planting wasn’t the norm at the time, so they looked outside the region, mostly at Waiheke Island, to learn about layout, irrigation systems and planting. “It was a massive risk, but my parents loved the challenge – they

Ben Cowley (left) is Auntsfield's viticulturist; brother Luc is the winemaker

have always made decisions based on passion and intuition rather than business. They go with what brings them excitement, and they loved the place,” says Ben. Thus began what became some pioneering industry changes, both for Auntsfield and for Marlborough. Blocks couldn’t be laid out in straight lines, and had to take into account the topography and soil types. The Auntsfield estate lent itself beautifully to low-crop, structured pinots noir and chardonnays with depth, elegance and plenty of minerality. But Graeme had never forgotten about the possibility of previous plantings. A keen researcher, he discovered there had indeed been grapes here before. A 22-year-old

BEHIND CLOSED DOORS

David Herd had arrived in Nelson from Dundee, Scotland in 1852 with his wife and child, on Ticonderoga, the first of the multi-deck immigrant ships. David got a job on Meadowbank, a huge cattle station, but on retiring, bought the land on which he had dreamed of making wine. He planted his first grapes in 1873 on the Auntsfield Estate and made wine until his death in 1905. His son-in-law continued the legacy until 1931. Fascinated, Graeme searched for a descendant of David Herd. “One man called John Gleeson was in his 80s and remembered it from his childhood. He showed me around; his mother had told him stories of living here as a young girl, being made to help by trampling the grapes

with her sister. She had hated it,” says Graeme. “He described how it used to look, and showed me where the vines had been.” Hidden away on the vineyard was Herd’s original wine cellar, which has now been restored, and John’s mother, over 100 years old, was brought to see it, and given some of the first wine the Cowleys had made. Discovering they were on historic ground was a benchmark moment for the Cowleys. Graeme spent years researching the history of the land, the family and the wine. “We discovered David had definitely grown muscat, although various names were used for it back in those days,” says Graeme. Through numbering systems, Graeme and Linda were able to track down a few of the mother vines planted by Herd. After treatment and propagation, they were planted – by David Herd’s great-grandson – in the restored vineyard in 2004. In 2005, Auntsfield produced a special Pinot Noir named Heritage, to commemorate 100 years since David’s death. In each bottle of Heritage wine was a little of the one remaining bottle of wine from the original Auntsfield Estate. Today, the Cowley family produces an equal amount of pinot noir and sauvignon blanc at Auntsfield, plus a little chardonnay. “In my opinion, Marlborough is not only the greatest region in the world to grow Sauvignon Blanc, but has the potential to do so with Pinot Noir as well," says Ben. “There are some unique challenges on this site – poor soil means little natural nutrition, which drives a particular wine style, but we let the vines dictate what we do. We can’t produce large commercial quantities, but that suits our philosophy perfectly.” The family have also planted wetlands and natives as part of the restoration project, and to maintain a sustainable environment. “Having such a rich history is wonderful, and I think everyone on the vineyard feels that sense of place,” says Graeme. “The care that goes into the vine is beyond anyone here now – it’s in the land itself.” W

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A brand new look for an old favourite! Old Coach Road is the historic route used in the 1850s for the first mail run through the Moutere Hills in Nelson, near to where the Seifried winemaking story begins.

Our parents, Hermann & Agnes planted their first vineyard in 1973, pioneering modern winemaking in the South Island of New Zealand. Today we continue their dream, as the second generation of fully committed sustainable winegrowers.

WWW.SEIFRIED.CO.NZ @SEIFRIEDESTATE

Top

Cellar Doors WHEREVER YOU'RE TRAVELLING IN NEW ZEALAND, THERE'S A WINERY WORTH A VISIT. CAMERON'S TAKEN SOME OF THE LEGWORK OUT OF THE RESEARCH SO YOU KNOW WHERE TO STOP

TE WHARE RA, 56 Anglesea Street,

PEGASUS BAY: Stockgrove Road,

Renwick, Marlborough

Stop by at the oldest small winery in Marlborough and you'll feel instantly welcomed by owners & winemakers Anna and Jason Flowerday, their two (!) sets of twin daughters, and a collection of happy-go-lucky-dogs and cows. I really enjoy visiting this vineyard and I love the wines. There’s an instant connection between the land, the people and the smell and taste in the wine. It's truly magic. All you need do is inhale the sweet air in the vineyard and you'll know what harmony is all about. This is a small, certifiedorganic vineyard originally planted in 1979, and with just 11 hectares of vineyard is home to the oldest vines in

KUMEU RIVER WINES, 550 Highway 16, Kumeu, Auckland

Kumeu River, its vineyards, winery and tasting room are all adjacent to each in Auckland’s North West community

Waipara, RD2 Amberley 7482, North Canterbury

Marlborough. The Flowerday’s mantra is pretty cool, and smart: "We make our living from the soil, so the soil must be our living". My favourite wines from TWR collection are the Toru white blend and Syrah. Ph + 64 3 572 8581 www.twrwines.co.nz of Kumeu. A 30-minute drive from downtown, it is owned and operated by the Brajkovich family - a 'Dally' [Dalmatian] family who has been part of the fabric of New Zealand wine since 1944, when their first small vineyard was established. I love this place; I always experience some of the best old-fashioned hospitality, and some astounding wines too. Their Chardonnays. The cellar door is open for tasting and sales Mon-Fri 9am – 4.30 pm, Sat 11am -4.30 pm and closed on Sundays.

Pegasus Bay winery is owned and operated by the Donaldson family, pioneers of the Canterbury wine region. Take a stroll around the winery’s breathtaking gardens and wetlands even before you enter the tasting room and restaurant; the air smells sweet and intoxicating. The cellar door experience is fantastic, with all of the estate grown wines available for tasting. The wines are delicious and dare I say it - unique. My favourite wines are the Bel Canto Riesling and Prima Donna Pinot Noir. Do stay for lunch as well, the restaurant uses fresh, local and seasonal produce, an inspiring menu that changes regularly. Telephone: 03 314 6869 info@pegasusbay.com; restaurant@pegasusbay.com

ph +64 (0)9 412 8415 www.kumeuriver.co.nz

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TOP WINE DESTINATIONS

VILLA MARIA CELLAR DOOR MANGERE, 118

Montgomerie Rd, Mangere, Auckland 2022 Just minutes from the Auckland Airport, the Villa Maria Ihumatao Vineyard sits on the edge of the Manukau Harbour within a shallow, sheltered volcanic crater. This feature alone makes this a unique vineyard site. However, it’s only one of the reasons that Villa Maria was named the third most-admired wine brand in the world in March 2019. As you enter this place you feel a sense of calm and relaxation; a wonderful connection to the past and present is the Ihumatao. The cellar door is a key feature here; visitors can sample Villa Maria’s award-winning wines, enjoy a glass of wine in the Vineyard Café overlooking the vines or meander around the vineyard or lake. This is a popular spot for both international visitors and locals, so everyone can expect to be well looked after. There are many wines to sample here with of my favourites: Ihumatao Organic Verdelho and The Attorney Organic Pinot Noir (Marlborough). Open 7 days – Mon to Fri 9am - 6pm; Weekends 9am - 4pm. Tel: 09 255 0666 www.villamariawines.com/winery/aucklandcellar-door/

VILLA MARIA CELLAR DOOR HAWKE'S BAY, 2375

State Highway 50, Flaxmere, Roys Hill 4175, New Zealand The Te Awa Estate Winery, Restaurant and Cellar Door is spectacular. Located along State Highway 50 in Flaxmere (at the foot of Roy’s Hill) the grounds and outdoor areas evokes memories of youth - climbing trees and rolling in the grass. The cellar door & restaurant are both rustic and modern. Chef Stephen Tindall creates delicious food from an outdoor picnic to an a la carte lunch indoors. With only lunch on offer I recommend you book. The remaining time is set aside for events. Wines for tasting include Te Awa Estates, Esk Valley, Left Field, Kidnapper Cliffs and Vidal Estate – so more than a few to taste. My must-try wines include their Te Awa Single Estate Syrah,Vidal Estate Soler Chardonnay and Esk Valley The Terraces Red Blend. Open 7 Days. www.villamariawines.com/vineyards/Hawke'sbay/ Tel: +64 6879 7602

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THE URBAN WINERY, 3 Ossian Street, Ahuriri, Napier, Hawke’s Bay

The Urban Winery in Ahuriri, Napier, is home to Tony Bish Wines and a very ‘Kiwi’ cellar door & wine bar experience. Through the looking glass wall of this art deco industrial-style building, you can’t help but notice their iconic concrete eggs. The only French oak egg barrel in the southern hemisphere is here as well, along with beautifully laid out barriques. Tony is a Chardonnay specialist and from the Fat & Sassy to the Skeetfield (my favourite), these wines capture Hawke’s Bay and Tony’s unique style.You might also notice only vinyl records being played, in fact you can BYO your favourite LP for a spin. Wine tastings, wine and craft beer by the glass or bottle, live music events, retail sales and tasty platters. Opening hours: Sun - Weds, 12pm - 6pm Thurs to Sat: 12pm - late Phone: 06 650 3353. Email: events@theurbanwinery.co.nz www.theurbanwinery.co.nz www.tonybishwines.co.nz FB:@theurbanwineryahuriri

NEUDORF VINEYARDS 138

Neudorf Road, RD2, Upper Moutere, Nelson Todd Stevens (winemaker) and Rosie Located on the home Finn (Tim and Jude's daughter) vineyard, Neudorf ’s cellar door over looks their original plantings of Moutere Chardonnay, some of the oldest chardonnay vines in the South Island. Open since the early 80s, owners Tim & Judy and the Neudorf team have created a peaceful environment to come and taste their wines. Enjoy the action amongst the vines on the other side of the fence, be it the 400 sheep on vineyard grass patrol, or the crew working away. Judy has crafted a baby deli filled with local cheeses to match the wines which you can enjoy in the garden during summer months. Their staff are warm and knowledgeable, whether you want to sit in the garden with a glass of Chardonnay or taste the portfolio at the bar. Neudorf is worth the 40 minute drive north of Nelson city. I recommend you taste all the wines, but my picks are the Moutere Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Albariño.

Open 7 days from October 2019. Visit www.neudorf.co.nz for more information +64 3 543 2643

TOP WINE DESTINATIONS

ELEPHANT HILL,

86 Clifton Road, Te Awanga, Hawke’s Bay Founded and owned by the Weiss family, Elephant Hill is a stunning and innovative winery estate and restaurant located on the Te Awanga coastline in Hawke’s Bay. Every time I arrive at this place my jaw drops - Wow! From the architecture to the reception, wine tasting and dining, this place is amazing. The Pacific Ocean and Cape Kidnappers are all within view, the smell of the ocean breeze is energising and welcoming. Elephant Hill crafts small volumes of world-class wines from three Hawke’s Bay sites. Their winemaking ethos is to produce the best possible wines that express their vineyard, variety and vintage. My favourite wines are the Single Vineyard Chardonnay and Syrah, though all Elephant Hill wines are rather delicious! Cellar Door is open 7 days from 11am. A range of tasting experiences are available, email cellardoor@elephanthill.co.nz for private tasting opportunities. Cellar Door (06) 872 6073 elephanthill.co.nz

BRICK BAY, 17 Arabella Lane, Snells Beach, Auckland 0920

On the east coast near Matakana is Brick Bay. Cantilevered over a shimmering lake, an architectural ‘Glass House’ encompasses a tasting room, tasting room and restaurant. It is also the gateway to the Brick Bay Sculpture Trail. I’ve walked this trail many times – it really is amazing! From the transparency of the Glass House, you can view the vineyard witnessing the individual care that underpins a small artisan vineyard. A sustainably accredited 4.5 hectare vineyard produces all the fruit for very limited release wines including With Pinot Gris, Rose [need accent on this pls], Chardonnay and Bordeaux blends, Brick Bay offers relaxed all-day dining showcasing farm to table and seasonal produce. I have been a fan of these wines since the beginning with my favourites the Pinot Gris and Pharos red blend. Open 10am-5pm daily. Phone 09 425 4690 Visit www.brickbay.co.nz for information and bookings

MISHA’S VINEYARD TASTING ROOM

182 State Highway 8B, Cromwell 9310 (Freeway Orchard complex) Located close to the town of Cromwell, the Misha’s Vineyard Tasting Room is a simple yet elegant space providing a relaxed interactive tasting experience. From the large-scale photographic murals showcasing the vineyard a few kms away, to the first-class hospitality, to the wines and tasty food platters, Misha’s is among the best in New Zealand. I recommend the guided wine wine tasting, or tailor your own experience, from the selection available. All wines produced are grown on a stunning 57-hectare estate on the edge of Lake Dunstan at Bendigo. The range of single-vineyard Pinot Noir and aromatic white wines comprises Pinot Gris, Riesling, Pinot Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewürztraminer including a late harvest dessert wine. Two of my favourite wines are the Limelight Riesling and High Note Pinot Noir. Hours: 10am – 4pm daily. Contact: +64 3 4454456 or email: tastingroom@mishasvineyard.com www.mishasvineyard.com Open 10am – 4pm daily.

AKARUA WINES & KITCHEN BY ARTISAN, 265

Arrowtown - Lake Hayes Road, Arrowtown 9371 Akarua Wines and Kitchen by Artisan is located 15 minutes from Queenstown on Arrowtown-Lake Hayes Rd, in the historic Walnut Cottage. On site is a cellar door, retail and an indoor/outdoor dining setting, with a delightful garden, sculptures, mature trees; a good old-fashioned country feel. I love visiting Akarua for its quaint, charming atmosphere, and the way it blends retail, food and beverage with hospitality seamlessly. The winery itself is located in Bannockburn. All Akarua wines are 100% estate grown across six vineyard sites spanning two subregions, Bannockburn and Pisa. Akarua is now second-generation family owned, established by the Skeggs family in 1996. I particularly like the sparkling wine range and Siren Pinot Noir. Open 7 days 11am - 5pm www.akarua.com P: +64 (03) 445 0897 E: info@akarua.com

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INTRODUCING CAVALIER, GREEN GINGER WINE. BREWED USING PREMIUM MARLBOROUGH GRAPES AND ZESTY NATURAL GINGER. Cavalier Green Ginger Wine is forging a new path, making wine of a different kind. The Cavaliers of today are those of us compelled to go against the grain. We challenge conventions not because weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got beef, but because we can. #Cavaliergreenginger www.allanscott.com

WHISKY MAC 45ml Cavalier Green Wine 45ml Whisk(e)y Pour ingredients into a short glass. Fill with ice. Stir to taste.

WINE AND FOOD

Perfect with

Pinot

THIS BEAUTIFUL WINTER DISH FROM AKARUA’S EXECUTIVE CHEF JOHN PICKENS USES ALPINE LAMB FROM LOCAL HILLSIDES

SLOW COOKED LAMB OYSTER SHOULDER Ingredients → 1 lamb oyster shoulder - we use Silere Merino - approx 1.1kg → 10 garlic cloves → 150ml canola oil → 2 sprigs of rosemary → 1 onion, chopped → 1 piece of celery, chopped → 1 carrot, chopped → 1 bottle of Akarua Rua Pinot Noir Method First, confit the garlic. In a small pot, add garlic cloves and just enough oil to cover them. Place on the stove top on its lowest heat and let it slowly confit, without boiling, for about 25 minutes. They should be soft enough to squash with the back of a spoon. Allow the garlic to cool slightly. Rip off the leaves and add them to the garlic and oil, using a bar blender or hand blender, blitz for a minute or two until the rosemary is fine and you have a nice paste. Rub this over the lamb shoulder and ideally leave overnight to marinate. Pre heat your oven 130˚C. Take an oven proof dish with high sides that just fits the lamb, add the chopped veges and then lamb on top and the bottle of wine, if necessary top up with water until just covered. Place a sheet of baking paper over the lamb, followed by aluminium foil wrapped tightly around the edges.

Cam’s Wine Match This is a dish of soft and subtle sweetness, delicacy and refinement as well as tenderness and familiarity. It requires a wine with the same attributes, but also a wine with a core of fruit, power of fine tannins and youthful acidity to contrast the lamb. The Akarua Pinot Noir does this with aplomb. A distinctive signature of vineyard and Otago origins with stony schist minerality, dried herb, a whisper of thyme, and with great fruit and structure this wine has personality and Pinosity.

Slow cook in the oven for 4-5 hours. To test the lamb is done, wiggle the bone. It should separate from the lamb. In our restaurant we serve it with caramelised onions and figs, Akarua Pinot Noir jus and black garlic salt.

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 17

Songbird FINDING YOUR PASSION TAKES A LITTLE LUCK, AND LOTS OF HARD WORK. CAMERON CAUGHT UP WITH JING SONG, ONE OF NEW ZEALAND’S MOST RESPECTED FEMALE WINE PRODUCERS, TO FIND OUT MORE.

ing Song doesn’t fit the image of your average wine producer. A former accountant with an extraordinary talent for artistry and entrepreneurship, Jing is an engaging blend of modern businesswoman and colourful theatre. Married and mother to a son, with a second baby due later this year, Jing is a successful wine entrepreneur. Her latest project is an exclusive wine club, the Crown Range Cellar Lounge, in Parnell, Auckland, which opened on May 17, 2019. I first encountered Jing Song and the Crown Range Cellar brand in 2016, when some China Girl Pinot Noir samples arrived at my office for review. I was intrigued; Grant Taylor, one of New Zealand’s premier Pinot Noir winemakers, had crafted the wine specifically for Crown Range Cellar; and the China Girl brand looked interesting. Jing first arrived in New Zealand as a teenager from Chong Qing City, China, to study at a Christchurch private school. Jing took two degrees: Accounting and Theatre Studies. Her experience of wine and alcohol were limited to social events. “All I knew was cask wine back then,” smiles Jing. “I had no idea that wine would become my passion.” With her newly-minted skills – she was an A-grade scholarship recipient - Jing landed a role in Dunedin with financial giants KPMG. It didn’t take long, however, before Jing missed the excitement of the theatre and the arts. “I did enjoy accountancy but the job became very

18 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

routine. It suppressed my creativity,” she explains. With Jing’s parents having moved from China to Central Otago, she regularly drove from Dunedin, where she was a student, to Queenstown to visit them. “The journey exposed me to the amazing landscapes and vineyards of the region.” On every trip, Jing would drive by local winemaking facility VinPro. “One day, about ten years ago, I wanted to know more about this place I’d driven past so often,” explains Jing. She introduced herself, and began asking questions – just as Grant Taylor, one of New Zealand’s premier Pinot Noir makers, happened to make an appearance. “It was pure chance that he walked by.” That meeting signalled the beginning of a long friendship, and a unique partnership. “Grant invited me into his world of winemaking, which was so different from the daily grind of accounting. It fascinated me,” says Jing, who discovered that Grant lived directly opposite her mother. She immersed herself in learning about wine,Valli, winemaking and vineyards, and worked a harvest in order to experience the art of boutique winemaking. Grant’s love for wine, its history in Otago and the land’s enormous potential worked its magic on Jing, and in 2010, the pair formed a wine trading enterprise. “When I first met Grant I was a typical poverty-stricken student in Dunedin, but he saw something in me,” says Jing. “He believed in me from the beginning; he had

A woman in a wine world As a woman in what is historically a male world, Jing wants to share her knowledge and success with other women. “It’s vital that women believe in themselves, their abilities and their potential,” she says. “My advice to women is to surround yourself with men and women who recognise your personal strengths. Do this, focus on your goal, and you will succeed.” confidence and faith in my talent and my palate. He invited me to blind tastings, and made me explain what I could taste, what I could smell. I was a neighbourhood girl with no knowledge, but lots of hidden talent. He taught me a lot about wine, and gave me the confidence I needed to create a career.” Jing’s unique combination of logic, common sense and originality was exactly what Grant was looking for;

BEHIND CLOSED DOORS

Cameron at Jing's Crown Range Cellar opening with winemaker Grant Taylor (left) and architect Ron Seeto (right)

Crown Range Cellar wine lounge

and the pair went on to form Crown Range Cellar Ltd in 2012. The pair still blind taste wines today. “My business background, combined with my natural creativity, is why Grant chose to work with me. It’s a very successful partnership,” she says. Another of Jing’s business mentors, renowned jeweller Sir Michael Hill, has proved invaluable on her journey. As Jing learned more about the New Zealand wine industry, she realised there was a gap in the market for a business producing bespoke wine from some of the best wine growing regions in New Zealand and expanding this globally. Two years later, Jing created Crown Range Cellar, with the first winemaker’s Signature Selection release in 2013 – a Central Otago Pinot Noir made by Grant Taylor. “Sir Michael has been a mentor, a huge support and a friend to me,” says Jing. In 2017, Sir Michael named Jing as one of the two people he admired most (the other being Bob Charles), due to her being the only woman, and only Chinese, to ever win the prestigious 2015 IWSC Pinot Noir trophy. “Jing is the youngest female Pinot Noir trophy winner (under 30) in New Zealand history,” by TV3 newshub reporter Jendy Harper in 2016 . In 2017 she was appointed an IWSC ambassador, and the Crown

Range Cellar China Girl 2015 vintage was also a double trophy winner for best Pinot Noir at the 2017 London IWC. The next step was to open a space for Jing to showcase her wine. “I thought, wouldn’t it be wonderful to bring Central Otago to Auckland! So few people get the chance to visit the region, this was an opportunity for me to bring my vision to the heart of Auckland.” Tragedy struck at the beginning of 2018, however, when the Crown Range Cellar Lounge and tasting room was gutted by fire, three weeks before opening. “This is a very old historical building. The electrical wiring failed, and exploded,” says Jing. “After 18 months of preparation for our opening, everything was gone overnight. Some very rare Patrick eon wine was affected. Insurance doesn’t cover creative vision, only replacement rebuild materials. We had to let staff go. I was faced with two choices – walk away and take the insurance, or start again.” Fortunately, she chose the latter. “The fire made me think harder about the space,” she says. “It now reflects the Otago region even more, in part through architecture and interior design. Influenced by natural landscape elements from the region, we changed the colour palette from

This calming, quiet space in Parnell is mostly dedicated to showcasing Crown Range Cellar's seven wine collections, as well as some of New Zealand's finest wines. There is even a rare vintage collection of international French wines available. The Lounge is also ideal for business meetings, private functions, interviews, or simply to enjoy a glass of Crown Range Cellar wine, New Zealand-made gin or whisky, or a coffee. It is also used as a space for Sommelier education and wine tasting. The lounge is open to the public, with memberships available to the public by appointment. With room for thirty or more inside, and a total of fifty including the outdoor area, this truly unique venue is a real treat. For more information ph 09 307 7966 or visit www.crownrangecellar.com white to black, and even wove some of the charred wood from the fire into the design. We even developed our own decorative lighting, with real tussock grass from central Otago.” I have no doubt we will be seeing and hearing much more about Jing and her wines in the years to come. Her future vision includes more brand building, including The Stolen Heart, Drowsy Fish, Fame, Moon Rock and China Girl. These and other Crown Range Cellar wines will also become available at restaurants over the coming months. W

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 19

A Swirl of Whites NEW ZEALANDERS ARE A NATION OF WHITE WINE LOVERS, BUT ARE WE MAKING THE MOST OF WHAT WE HAVE ON OFFER?

f you had to guess, what do you think the four most-ordered white wine in New Zealand restaurants were? If you said Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc, you’d be right. Other white varieties such as Gewürztraminer, Albariño, Arneis or Grüner Veltliner, delicious as they are, don’t seem to get much of a look-in. These wines might be avoided because they are hard to pronounce, or wine lovers may not be sure of the flavour profile or dryness level. It could also be that old chestnut - you like sticking to the tried and true, habit takes over each time you scan through the range at your local. Chardonnay is hands-down the number one white wine sold. Its taste profile of stonefruit and citrus, with a measure of oak and great palate weight makes it familiar, easy to consume and an easy match with food. Two great examples you should be looking to try are Neudorf Rosie’s Block and Tony Bish’s ‘Golden Egg’.

It may come as a surprise that Riesling makes the list, yet the combination of apple, white flowers, citrus and minerality in a dry or off-dry style are excellent as an aperitif and perfect for lighter weight, fresh local seafood. Two great examples you should be looking to try are Fromm Spätlese and Pegasus Bay Bel Canto. Pinot Gris is loved by many, and really just sells itself. The flavours of pears and apples, honeysuckle with or without a little oak make for very easy drinking. If you haven’t yet tried Dry River or Greystone – it’s time. Sauvignon Blanc needs no introduction or taste reminders, but I’d strongly advise you segue your next purchases towards Greywacke Wild and Saint Clair Reserve. A blended white wine might strike you as a little unusual, but there are several great producers in NZ. If you’re curious or serious about wine then ‘Toru’ by Te Whare Ra (TWR) is delicious. TWR use Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris and Riesling to craft this wine. W

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 21

WHITE WINES

his grape variety has to be one of the most polarising. It is important to note that there is no one Chardonnay style, with terroir and winemaking decisions able to effect considerable variation in this fantastic grape. Increasingly, the style, shape and form of Chardonnay is changing. While the popular 'traditional' creamy, fruity, oaky and buttery expressions are still available, a multitude of different styles are evolving. As a food match, Chardonnay loves fleshy or weighty dishes such as smoked salmon or fettuccine with cream sauces. I’ve had an oak free Chardonnay with steak tartare before and it was great. Evolution and change in Chardonnay styles, notably from New Zealand, is inevitable. Viticulture and winemakers are responding to changes in weather, soil, environment and market demands. Competition for excellent yet affordable Chardonnay is becoming

tougher. In order to reproduce traditional expressions under changing vineyard and growing conditions, as well as keeping the price the same or similar, winemakers have to deploy different approaches in the winery. The cost of making fine wine is increasing, and so must the price to customers to maintain the standards. Some wine producers are embracing these changes by showing more understanding of style within style for Chardonnay. Some of the practices include trialling more natural winemaking to learn where the boundary of consumer acceptance lies and where a new style may emerge. Less preservative, no additives, less oak handing, small batch wine making, different yeast strains, high solids ferment, extended lees ageing, concrete egg ferments instead of steel, oak or plastic are some of the approaches being taken. Many of the resulting wines are world-class. W

Chardonnay a wine for all reasons

22 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

TASTING NOTES CHARDONNAY

Pyramid Valley Field of

1 Fire 2016 Chardonnay

New Zealand This is delicious. The initial bouquet of flowers and gun-flint to citrus and heirloom treefruit, with complexity on the nose and palate, together have wonderful harmony. Dry, with a layer of oak spice and lees-derived wild spice to tension and poise from the acidity and fine silky tannins - take your time over this wine. Pause, enjoy the weight and subtle power, flavours and finish. Not all Chardonnay are for everyone, this example will open your eyes and palate. Drink now and through 2024. POINTS: 96

Contact: www.pyramidvalley.co.nz RRP $125.00

Pyramid Valley Lions

2 Tooth Chardonnay 2016 New Zealand

Complex and inviting bouquet with aromas of grapefruit, peach and apricot woven between aromas of vanilla and cashew, a limestone and clay mineral quality. Delicious on the palate with a saline feel, flavours of vanilla and other wood spices, apple and yellow stonefruits. Very fine wood tannins, natural acidity and long finish. Complex and intriguing, alluring and very tasty. drink now and through 2024. POINTS: 96

Contact: www.pyramidvalley.co.nz RRP $125.00

Sacred Hill Riflemans 3 Chardonnay 2016 Hawke’s Bay

Complex, enticing and distinctive bouquet. Hazelnut and cashew, gun-flint and peach, grapefruit and apple, lees and spice. Full bodied, textured, leesy and fruity. Flavours of Brazil nut and cashew, wood smoke, flint and leesy spices are persistent contrasted by a core of fruit. Weighty, medium+ acidity with a complex and lengthy finish. Drink now and through 2026. POINTS: 96

Contact: www.sacredhill.com RRP $69.99

Sacred Hill Wine Thief

4 Chardonnay 2017 Hawke’s Bay

Great bouquet of Chardonnay, complex and alluring. Aromas and flavours of baked peach and nectarine, baked custard and raw brown sugar. An abundance of spicy oak, specific and engaging structure with a youthful acidity, oak tannins, weight, warmth and core of fruit. Fullbodied and powerful wine, lengthy finish and complex. Drinkable now though best from 2021 through 2026+.

POINTS: 96

Contact: www.sacredhill.com RRP $34.99

Vidal Legacy Chardonnay

5 2018 Hawke's Bay

Seductive, enticing, complex and glamorous bouquet of Chardonnay. Aromas of roasted cashew and yellow peach, baked golden apple then grapefruit, a cheesy, whipped cream moment and easy-to-spot wood spices. On the palate - tense, vibrant, weighty, youthful and dry. As complex and glamorous as the bouquet suggests, with flavours of white and yellow orchard fruits, wood spice and a flinty, leesy, toasty harmonious core. Quite youthful with a refreshing acid line, fine wood tannin layer, lees spice and mineral finish. Delicious now though I recommend decanting, even better in 2021. An investment wine that will be the talk of many fabulous dinner parties through to 2030 and probably beyond.

POINTS: 96

Contact: www.vidal.co.nz RRP $59.99

Vidal Soler Chardonnay 2018

6 Hawke's Bay

There’s no mistaking the power and youthful impact that the bouquet of this wine offers peach and nectarine, vanilla, burnt butter and brazil nut, lees spices and blond tobacco. A natural complexity and raw energy. Equally intense on the palate with flavours of yellow stonefruit, grapefruit, apple and layers of wood spice and lees textures. An abundance of oak and acidity with some fine oak tannins. Very lengthy & finishing just dry and complex. Ideal drinking from 2021 through 2028.

Contact: www.vidal.co.nz RRP $34.99

POINTS: 96

Auntsfield Single Vineyard

7 Chardonnay 2016 Marlborough

A plush and pure fruit attack with a calm creamy bouquet. Aromas of white peach and apricot, sweet red apple then wood spice and vanilla. Firm youthful and dry on the palate with a vibrant fruit core, wet stone mineral moment, mild fine wood tannins and plenty of refreshing and balancing acidity. Lush, fresh and juicy finish with a building complexity. Drink now and through 2026.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.auntsfield.co.nz RRP $37.99 More next page>> WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 23

TASTING NOTES CHARDONNAY

Brennan Gibbston

8 Chardonnay 2016 8

Central Otago

A very different and exciting bouquet of chardonnay with a lees and wood smoke beginning, then lemon peel, apple and lemon custard aromas. These ideas follow through to the palate with a seamless transition, abundant acidity and measured use of oak. Well made and lengthy, complex and very individual. Drink now and through 2024. POINTS: 95

Contact: www.brennanwines.com RRP $35.00

Church Road Grand

9 Reserve Chardonnay 2018 10

Hawke's Bay

There's no mistaking the power and impact of this wine with aromas of sweet oak and spices, vanilla then roasted peach, sweet lemon and a fine layer of stony minerality. Dry, weighty, luscious creamy texture, fine wood tannins, medium acidity and long finish. On the 2nd & 3rd sips the impact builds through to an intense and very enjoyable climax of fruit, oak and concentration. Drink now if decanted, best from 2020 through 2025. POINTS: 95

Contact: www.church-road.com/en-nz RRP $39.99

10 Pask Gimblett Gravels

Small Batch Chardonnay 2016 Hawke's Bay Lovely bouquet with layers of fruit and baking spices, peach and quince, apple and sweet grapefruit. A lively nutty spicy oak layer adds to the complexity. The palate reflects all these ideas with a nutty cashew-like layer, apple and yellow peach, vanilla and stony mineral complexities. Balanced and well made. Drink now and through 2026. POINTS: 95

Contact: www.pask.co.nz RRP $25.00

Pegasus Bay Virtuoso

11 Chardonnay 2016 North Canterbury An intense, powerful bouquet of Chardonnay with distinctive messages of oak and oak spices, Brazil nut, cashew and burnt butter. Equally intense and contrasting core of fruit with baked peach and nectarine then a sweet vanilla spice. The special part of this wine is the wild florals, citrus peel a leesy complexity which

24 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

builds on the palate with each sip. Long complex finish. Decant for service. Best from late 2020 through 2026. POINTS: 95

Contact: www.pegasusbay.com RRP $60.00

12 Tohu Whenua Awa Single

Vineyard Chardonnay 2017 Awatere Valley, Marlborough Complex, fragrant, youthful and powerful bouquet of Chardonnay. Aromas and flavours of gun flint and white peach, lemon curd and new wood, vanilla and apple. No mistaking the acidity, youthful energy, and complexity of this example. Dry, weighty, woody and layered. A wine to watch. Decant for service please, with best drinking from 2021 through 2026. POINTS: 95

Contact: www.tohuwines.co.nz/ whenuaseries RRP $39.99

13 Tony Bish Golden

Egg Chardonnay 2017 Hawke's Bay Complex, enticing and distinctive bouquet. Hazelnut and cashew, gunflint and peach, grapefruit and apple, lees and spice. Fullbodied, textured, leesy and fruity. Nut and smoke and gunflint characters are persistent with a core of fruit and flavours for contrast and weight. Medium+ acidity, complex lengthy finish. Drink now and through 2026. POINTS: 95

Contact: www.tonybishwines.co.nz RRP $39.95

14 Tony Bish ‘Skeetfield’

Chardonnay 2017 Hawke's Bay

An engaging bouquet with precise aromas of citrus flesh and peel, peach and red apple. The bouquet has shape and form, texture from sulphide-like residue and natural ferment scents. The connection to oak and fruit is seamless and complex, unfurling in glass over several minutes. Youthful, textured, fruity and flavourful. Noticeable oak, which links seamlessly with the fruit. Great palate weight, fine oak tannins, loads of texture, flavours of citrus, apple and stonefruit and a long finish. A lovely example of Chardonnay. Drink now and through 2028. POINTS: 95

Contact: www.tonybishwines.co.nz RRP $53.99 More next page>>

An elegant fusion of flavour and fashion. @youngandcowines_nz Please Enjoy Responsibly.

TASTING NOTES CHARDONNAY

15 Villa Maria Single Vineyard

Keltern Chardonnay 2017 Hawke's Bay

Floral, flinty, fragrant, complex and enticing bouquet. Aromas and flavours of whitefleshed fruits, oak and wood spice. White peach and red apple, gun metal and flint, stones and tannin textures. A delicious wine with tension, poise and length. Drink now and through 2030. POINTS: 95

Contact: www.villamariawines.com RRP $79.99

16 Akarua Chardonnay 2018 Central Otago

Fantastic red fruited bouquet Youthful, floral and sweet citrus scented bouquet. White flowers and mineral, white peach and apple, some lemon and pear suggestions. Palate reflects the nose with a youthful, firmly textured and finely tuned flavours. As the wine opens up - flavours suggested by the nose emerge. Plenty of acidity, moderate measure of oak, well made and cellar ready. Best drinking from late 2020 through 2025. POINTS: 94

Contact: www.akarua.com RRP $29.00

Greystone Chardonnay 2017

17 North Canterbury

Floral, fruity, some wood accents and earthy/mineral layers. Creamy, weighty, complex and layered on the palate. Flavours do reflect the nose, but this wine is more about texture and synergy. Medium+(ish) acidity, moderate use of oak with fine tannis and wood spices, a core of yellow fruits and apple, some wildflowers and intriguing harmony. Well made with a lengthy finish. Drink now and through 2024. POINTS: 94

Contact: www.greystonewines.co.nz RRP $39.00

26 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

18 Neudorf Rosie’s Block

Chardonnay 2017 Nelson

Enticing and intriguing bouquet of Chardonnay with a flinty floral then ripe yellow stonefruit beginning. As the wine opens up in glass, sweet scents of oak emerge with vanilla and white toast then a distinctive mineral and honeysuckle layer. Wonderful texture on the palate with a vibrant core of fruit energised by acidity and new oak; flavours of white peach, red

apple and quince; the vanilla sweet oak layer returns with a noticeable spice lick from the wood. Lovely lengthy finish, great balance and youthful energy. Drink now and through 2024. POINTS: 94

Contact: www.neudorf.co.nz RRP $33.00

19 Pask Gimblett Gravels

Chardonnay 2018 Hawke's Bay No mistaking the power and the presence of this wine on the nose with aromas of spicy toasty wood, ripe stone fruit and baked apple. Nutty flavours of French Oak and creamy textures laced with spice and acidity, a core of yellow fleshed stone fruit, bacon-like oak layer and full bodied richness. A lovely example - drinking well now and through 2024. POINTS: 94

Contact: www.pask.co.nz RRP $22.00

20 Pegasus Bay Chardonnay 2017 North Canterbury

An intense, powerful bouquet of Chardonnay with distinctive messages of oak and oak spices, Brazil nut, cashew and burnt butter. Equally intense and contrasting core of fruit with baked peach and nectarine then a sweet vanilla. The special part of this wine is the wild florals, citrus peel and leesy complexity which builds on the palate with each sip. Long finish, decant for service. Best from late 2020 through 2026. POINTS: 94

Contact: www.pegasusbay.com RRP $43.00

21 Seifried Chardonnay 2017 Nelson

Aromas of white and yellow peach, nectarine, some yellow apple and mild baking spices of vanilla then toasty nutty oak spice with a mild cashew quality. On the palate - lovely! Flavours of apples and peaches accentuated with oak and baking spice layers. Fine creamy texture and lengthy finish with plenty of acidity and whispers of wood tannin adding structure, texture and length. Drink now and through 2023. POINTS: 94

Contact: www.seifried.co.nz RRP $17.00

TASTING NOTES CHARDONNAY

22 Tohu Whenua Matua Single

Vineyard Chardonnay 2017 Upper Moutere, Nelson Attractive bouquet of Chardonnay with some familiar aromas of warm peach and ripe apple, grapefruit peel then vanilla custard, cashew nut and toasty wood. Plenty of complexity and charm, dry and weighty wine on the palate with flavours that mirror the nose. Peach and apple, wood spices and baked nuts, a burnt butter, clove and vanilla push. Some very fine wood tannins and medium+ acidity. Overall a lovely wine that needs bottledevelopment time in your cellar. Best drinking from late 2020 through 2026+. POINTS: 94

Contact: www.tohuwines.co.nz/ whenuaseries RRP $34.99

23 Villa Maria Reserve Chardonnay 2017 Hawke's Bay Quietly complex bouquet with aromas and flavours of yellow peach and baked red apple, wood spices and vanilla custard. Dry, creamy spicy and delicious. Flavours reflect the bouquet, with layers of delicate wood tannins, medium+ acidity and a core of fruit and texture. Lovely power and balance, great length. Drink now and through 2026.

creamy texture contrasted by acidity. Lengthy, and well made. Drink now and through 2025. POINTS: 93

Contact: www.eskvalley.co.nz RRP $19.99

26 Matahiwi Holly

Chardonnay 2018 Hawke’s Bay Smoke, toast, sweet barrel and brown spices. A core of dark cherry and dried raspberry fruit. Fine tannins and medium+ (ish) acidity. A core of fine oak flavours offset by ripe red berry fruit flavours and a little red apple skin. Lovely calmness adding to the complexity, as well as potential for cellar ageing. Drinkable now - best from 2020 through 2030.

Contact: www.matahiwi.co.nz RRP $32.99

27 Pyramid Valley Chardonnay 2017 Marlborough

Varietal, fruity, familiar and fresh fruited bouquet. Aromas of wood before fruit, apple before spice, peach before flowers. Dry, weighty and full of fruit, wood and wild ferment flavours - flowers and flint, leesy spice and very fine tannins. Balanced, fresh, building complexity, loads of texture and well made. Drink now and through 2024. POINTS: 93

24 Villa Maria Reserve

28 Seifried Winemakers

Contact: www.pyramidvalley.co.nz RRP $40.00

Chardonnay 2016 Marlborough Smoky, toasty, nutty, rich and complex. Equally intense on the palate with flavours of roasted stonefruits and grapefruit. A sweet nutty richness follows with cashew and brazil, spices and acidity. Dry lengthy finish with an intensity, complexity and richness that lasts long after the wine is swallowed. Delicious! Drink now and through 2030.

Collection Barrique Fermented Chardonnay 2016 Nelson Aromas and flavours of baked orchard fruits with cashew and baking spices of toasty oak, vanilla custard, peach, nectarine, red apple then vanilla and clove. Full-bodied, rich and creamy, quite delicious with a creamy texture an slightly sweet vanillin long finish. Drink now and through 2024.

Contact: www.villamariawines.com RRP $34.99

Contact: www.seifried.co.nz RRP $26.00

POINTS: 94

POINTS: 93

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.villamariawines.com RRP $39.99

POINTS: 93

25 Esk Valley Chardonnay 2017 Hawke's Bay

Immediately intriguing, complex, fruity and spicy. Layers of cashew and spice, white peach and citrus Dry with a weighty,

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WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 27

TASTING NOTES CHARDONNAY

29 Giesen The Brothers

Chardonnay 2018 Marlborough Lovely bouquet and palate of Chardonnay with aromas and flavours of stone fruits, apple and grapefruit peel. A layer of oak with some spice and wood flavours, a nutty buttery note and soft creamy texture overall. Lots to like and enjoy with this wine, balanced with decent weight, medium acidity and a completeness. Ready to enjoy today and through 2022. POINTS: 92

Contact: www.giesenwines.co.nz RRP $26.99

30 Gibbston Valley China

Terrace Chardonnay 2017 Central Otago A fine bouquet that encapsulates the essence of the vineyard and soil, cool climate Otago and excellent winemaking. Aromas and flavours of white peach and crunchy red apple, the layer of oak flavour, acidity and weight of fruit offer an elegant structure and seamless flavour integration reflective of the nose. Cool rocky soil and minerality flavours integrate well with this finelytuned example. Drinking best from 2020 through 2026. POINTS: 92

Contact: www.gibbstonvalley.com RRP $42.00

31 Lake Chalice The

Falcon Chardonnay 2017 Marlborough Enticing aromas of peach and vanilla, nectarine and grapefruit peel. A butter toast layer adds depth and a layer of complexity. Fresh, fruity, crunchy, textured wine with weight and youthful bite. Lengthy finish, balanced and ready. Drink now and through 2023. POINTS: 92

Contact: www.lakechalice.com RRP $18.99

32 Palliser Estate Chardonnay 2017 Wairarapa

Classic bouquet of Chardonnay with creamy rounded texture, aromas of vanilla and peach, yellow apple and nutty oak layer. Dry on the palate with a full-bodied texture, flavours of stone and tree fruits, some grapefruit peel

28 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

suggestion adding contrast and length. No mistaking this wine’s oak - the nutty cashew flavours and a little wood smoke - balanced and layered into the wine well. Lengthy finish with a light dusty mineral finish. Drink now and through 2024. POINTS: 92

Contact: www.palliser.co.nz RRP $43.00

33 Villa Maria Platinum

Selection Chardonnay 2017 Hawke's Bay Rather nice bouquet of Chardonnay with scents of vanilla and wood spice, ripe apple and yellow stone fruits, baked cashew and baking spice. Dry, nutty, spicy and fruity on the palate with flavours that reflect the nose, medium+ body with silky almost creamy texture. Plenty of acidity and freshness. A charming and immediately enjoyable example. Drink now and through 2022. POINTS: 90

Contact: www.villamariawines.com RRP $24.99

34 Ara Single Estate

Chardonnay 2018 Marlborough Many classic aromas and flavours to this Chardonnay - white and yellow peach, yellow and red apple, vanilla and soft cashew nut-oak. A light custard note too. Creamy texture with medium acidity, weighty, fruity and dry. A balanced and well-made wine, with decent length and finish. Best from today and through 2021. POINTS: 90

Contact: www.arawines.co.nz RRP $19.99

35 Lake Chalice The

Raptor Chardonnay 2017 Marlborough Aromas of peaches and grapefruit, a nutty core of toasty wood and spice, apples and dry stone minerality. Weighty, creamy, fresh, crunchy and dry on the palate. Flavours reflect the nose with sound structure and finish. Drink now and through 2022. POINTS: 90

Contact: www.lakechalice.com RRP $22.99

TASTING NOTES CHARDONNAY

36 Sacred Hill Reserve

Chardonnay 2018 Hawke’s Bay Refreshing and familiar bouquet of Chardonnay with aromas and flavours of apple and peach, vanilla and cream, even a little custard and toasty wood layer. Dry on the palate with decent weight and acidity. Nice measure of oak and wood spices to match, balanced and well made. Drink now and through 2022. POINTS: 90

Contact: www.sacredhill.com RRP $21.99

37 Crafters Union

Chardonnay 2018 Hawke's Bay Very recognisable and appealing bouquet of Chardonnay with ripe apple, peaches and cream, vanilla and mild toasty wood moments. Dry on the palate with moderate weight and intensity, nice acid line and flavours that

mirror the nose. Well made in a ‘drink now’ style. Best drinking from today and through 2021.

POINTS: 88

Contact: www.craftersunionwines.com RRP $21.99

38 Selaks The Taste

Collection Buttery Chardonnay 2018 Hawke's Bay Smoky, toasty, nutty and buttery bouquet of Chardonnay. Flavours of the same on the palate with a creamy texture, moderate acidity, vanilla, yellow stonefruits and wood spices. Balanced and well made in a drink now expression. Best from today and through 2020. POINTS: 88

Contact: www.selaks.co.nz RRP $21.99

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 29

Whãnau,Whenua...

Tohu

omewhere in the upper realms of the Awatere Valley in Marlborough, you’ll find Whenua Awa, a vineyard named in tribute to the Awatere River that surrounds parts of the vineyard. Some 198km away, in Upper Moutere, Nelson, is the vineyard Whenua Matua, a name that translates to ‘significant land’. Both these vineyards are a part of Tohu Wines, one of the brands produced under Kono, a Mãoriowned food and drinks company based in Te Tauihu, the top of the South Island. As business with a 500-year plan, Kono bases its culture on kaitiakitanga: the importance of balance, and of guardianship of the land for future generations. Acknowledged as He mãtãmua taketake since 1998, Tohu is the first Mãori owned and operated wine label. Originally run with just contract growers, the first vintage of 3,200 cases were sold domestically. Now Tohu is a bricks and mortar winery which can process 3,000 tonnes of fruit, with 48 hectares of vineyard for Sauvignon Blanc, 39 hectares for Pinot Noir, 29 hectares of Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Albariño and Pinot Gris combined. After national and international successes, which include the 2016 Tohu Single Vineyard Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc being selected at an invitation-only dinner for former US President Barack Obama during his visit to New Zealand in 2018, and being named in Air New Zealand’s Fine Wines of New Zealand list in 2017, winemaker Bruce Taylor and his team have just launched Tohu Whenua Series Wines, a new

30 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

set of unique wines created to represent their connection to their beloved land. “These wines are a gift from the land,” explains Taylor, chief winemaker at Tohu since 2008. “In 2015 I put aside a Pinot Noir to create the Whenua series. Now, under the Whenua wines, we produce about eight different wine varietals. The Whenua series is about concentrating on the strengths of the two very different vineyards – the Whenua Matua vineyard, set in the sundrenched slopes of the Moutere Hills in Nelson; and Whenua Awa, high on the remote terraces of the Upper Awatere Valley. With these two very different vineyards, Taylor and his team have worked hard to capture a bit of the identity of this land in their Tohu Whenua series. “As a winemaker I believe looking after your land and grapes in a way that will still be

Winemaker Bruce Taylor has been with Tohu for 11 years

BEHIND CLOSED DOORS

What does the Tohu koru represent? In Māori, a tohu can be a sign, symbol, distinguishing feature of signature. The Tohu Wines symbol was crafted to include carved patterning known as rauponga, which is categorised by a row of notched chevrons. The koru symbolises growth, life and the natural world. “For us, the koru represents the growth of our company and the journey of our people from the past to today,” says winemaker Bruce Taylor. “It speaks of our long-term goals for future generations and has become our ‘tohu’ – our signature.

sustainable in future, and organic production is key to that. I have a couple of kids myself now, and it’s hard not to feel uncomfortable about conventional practices that are sometimes used in wine production. “I’ve been playing with organics, and traditional Mãori practices, which can be very difficult to do and expensive to manage. But we are exploring ways of using traditional Mãori practices and values in our modern winery in a financially stable way.” Taylor believes that from a production perspective, the Tohu Whenua single vineyard Sauvignon Blanc will be the biggest seller. “As a winemaker I drink a lot of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay,” he says. “That being said, I’m pretty stoked with all the varieties in the new range. They really are a gift from the land, our turangewaewae; the place where we stand.” W

The Kono project The Kono is a woven basket traditionally used as a food basket for sharing and giving. The company uses it as a promise to their manuhiri, of the finest quality that nature can provide, now and forever.

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 31

WHITE WINES

Wild about

Blanc

THE FRUITS OF A SAUVIGNON BLANC MAKE IT ONE OF NEW ZEALAND'S FAVOURITE VARIETIES - AND IT'S GROWING MORE POPULAR EVERY YEAR

here’s no mistaking the immediacy with which New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc engages the senses. With pungent aromas of sweet herb, tropical fruit, white peach, citrus, apple, gooseberry and hay, the variety has a lot to offer. Fresh, even crunchy textures and with laser-beam acidity when young, this variety also offers a lot of palate action as well. All wine regions in NZ grow Sauvignon Blanc, with each producing a version similar to the description above. With around 500 growers, 140 producers and +24,000 hectares of vines in the ground, Marlborough remains our largest for Sauvignon Blanc outputs. The classic expression of Sauvignon Blanc hasn’t changed very much in the last couple of decades. However, even Sauvignon Blanc is subject to vintage

32 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

variation and winemaker skillset. The 2013 through 2017 vintages have generally been very good to excellent. Be sure to drink these wines soon to make way for the 2019, the quality looks excellent. There are a growing number of producers exploring the boundaries of what this variety can offer if treated differently in the vineyard and winery. For example, a biodynamic or organically farmed Sauvignon Blanc vineyard can enhance texture and mineral suggestions. Teasing out a saline flavour - or additional texture with lees stirring, and the use of neutral oak or barrel-fermented or aged styles - demonstrates the new territory Sauvignon Blanc is exploring. There are. some producers releasing library stock with 4-5 years bottle age, while others add a little Sauvignon Gris or even Pinot Gris as a co-ferment. W

TASTING NOTES SAUVIGNON BLANC

Auntsfield South Oaks

1 Sauvignon Blanc 2016

Marlborough Complex and developing bouquet of Sauvignon Blanc with aromas and flavours of baking spices and lemon pepper, baked apple and wood smoke, ripe peach and vanilla. A weighty and complex wine with a youthful acid line, nutty oak flavour, some pristine fine tannins and long varietal finish. Complex and very enjoyable. Drink now and through 2025+. POINTS: 96

Contact: www.auntsfield.co.nz RRP $38.00

Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc

2 2018 Marlborough

Immediately complex and seductive bouquet of Sauvignon Blanc, weighty and rich in aromas of white fleshed tree fruits, some tropical notes, citrus and lees-spices. Textured on the palate with abundant acidity, spice and flavours that reflect the nose. Lengthy finish. Drink now and through 2022. POINTS: 95

Contact: www.nautilusestate.com RRP $25.00

Loveblock Sauvignon Blanc

3 2018 Marlborough

Very attractive bouquet of organic, vegan Sauvignon Blanc, with a core of fruit then a lees-like spice layer as well as a hint of vanilla. Silky texture on the palate with flavours of citrus and gooseberry, some tropical fruits and persimmon. A tangerine peel note and wild flowers. Plenty of acidity and lengthy finish. What a lovely wine! drink now and through 2022.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.lawsonsdryhills.co.nz RRP $25.00

Lawson's Dry Hills Reserve

5 Sauvignon Blanc 2018 Marlborough

Varietal, complex, enticing and layered bouquet of Sauvignon Blanc. Classic yet quiet pungency of fresh herbs, tropical fruits, green bell-pepper and sweet grapefruit. As the wine opens up in glass, a gentle wood spice layer emerges adding complexity and intrigue. Fresh, dry, fruity and tasty, plenty of texture and gentle moments of wood spices, a gooseberry and pineapple suggestion, lengthy and very satisfying finish. Drink now and through 2026. POINTS: 94

Contact: www.lawsonsdryhills.co.nz RRP $25.00

Blind River Awatere Valley 4 Sauvignon Blanc 2018 Marlborough A lovely bouquet with an enticing, smooth and persistent bouquet of sweet citrus, lemon thyme green apple and pink grapefruit aromas. Equally fresh and enticing on the palate with plenty of citrus peel and fresh herb flavours, green apple and some tropical fruit suggestions. Very youthful and fresh with plenty of acidity and crunchy textures. Well made, and drinking well now, though best from late 2019 through 2025.

Tohu Whenua Awa Single

6 Vineyard Sauvignon

Blanc 2018 Awatere Valley, Marlborough Great bouquet and palate. Aromas of tropical fruits and sweet hay, pink grapefruit and crisp fridge-cold Pacific Rose apple. A savoury minerality cushioned by flavours of pineapple and passionfruit are contrasted by high acidity and a crunchy texture. Long finish, dry and very satisfying. Drink now and through 2025. A wine that will most certainly age if cellared properly.

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.tohuwines.co.nz/ whenuaseries RRP $29.99

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.loveblockwine.com RRP $21.99

Auntsfield Single Vineyard

7 Sauvignon Blanc 2018

Marlborough

Seductive and alluring bouquet of Sauvignon Blanc with softer fruit spice layers woven between suggestions of lemon and sweet grapefruit, apple, mineral and fresh lychee. Crisp, dry, packed with flavour and texture. Notable acidity well balanced against the ripeness of fruit and gentle fruit spice moments. Lengthy and quite complex finish. Drink now throughÂ 2022.

POINTS: 93

Contact: www.auntsfield.co.nz RRP $25.00

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WORLD OF WINE â&#x20AC;&#x201C; WINTER 2019 33

TASTING NOTES SAUVIGNON BLANC

Te Pa The Reserve

8 Collection Sauvignon 8

Blanc 2018 Marlborough

A sophisticated and charming bouquet of Sauvignon Blanc with a light leesy spice quality, leading to fruit aromas of yellow stonefruits and citrus, some gentle tropical fruit notes and sweet hay. Crisp, refreshing, fruity and just dry on the palate, decent fruit weight and flavours that reflect the nose with a light lees ginger spice layer. Well made drink now and through 2022. POINTS: 93

Contact: www.tepawines.com RRP $24.99

Toi Toi Sauvignon Blanc

9 Reserve 2018 Marlborough

A very classy wine indeed with aromas and f lavours of pink grapefruit and red apple, tropical fruits of mango and white pineapple with a lemon twist. Fresh basil and thyme scents with a wet stone mineral suggestion. Dry on the palate with abundant acidity, a core of fruit with a vibrant texture. Drink now and through 2022. 93 POINTS

Contact: www.toitoiwines.co.nz RRP $22.00

10 Yealands Single Vineyard Awatere Valley 2018 Marlborough Complex and engaging bouquet of Sauvignon Blanc with aromas of organic minerals, a seaside saline note and fruits of the orchard especially ripe citrus and apple with a noteworthy layer of herbaceousness. Also engaging on the palate with a great texture flavour and length. Drink now and through 2022. POINTS: 94

Contact: www.yealands.co.nz RRP $25.00

Akarua Pisa Sauvignon

11 Blanc 2018 Central Otago

Distinctive bouquet with aromas of sweet herb and citrus, apple and core of minerality in this organic wine. A whisper of dried herb. Fruity on the palate with a core of red apple, white peach and citrus flavours. The minerality and sweet herb returns. Plenty of acidity, a decent length and finish. Drink now and through 2021. POINTS: 92

Contact: www.akarua.com RRP $29.00

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12 Aotea by the Seifried

Family Sauvignon Blanc 2019 Nelson Distinctive bouquet and palate of Sauvignon Blanc, with flavours of grapefruit and tropical fruits, a definitive mineral, fresh herb and sweet hay flavour. Loads of energy too, with plenty of acidity, crisp textures and minerality. Dry finish with a flinty, grassy and mineral residue. Well made, balanced and refreshing. Drink now and through 2022. POINTS: 92

Contact: www.seifried.co.nz RRP $29.00

13 Lake Chalice The Raptor 2018 Marlborough

Varietal, lush, fresh, juicy and inviting bouquet of Sauvignon Blanc. Flowers and red apple, sweet white peach and fresh herbs, green mango and passionfruit. A wet stone and citrus layers adds some classic moments. Fresh, lush, juicy and fruity on the palate. A steely freshness and satin texture contrasted by high acidity makes for a very enjoyable and classic example. Drink now and through 2025. POINTS: 92

Contact: www.lakechalice.com RRP $22.99

14 Vidal Estate Sauvignon

Blanc 2018 Marlborough

Pungent, fruity, tropical and citrus laden with lemon, apple, grapefruit and pineapple fruit bouquet. Vibrant, crisp, tropical and dry on the apple; high acidity with a refreshing salivating texture, steely, fruity and luscious. Drink now and through 2021. POINTS: 92

Contact: www.vidal.co.nz RRP $15.99

TASTING NOTES SAUVIGNON BLANC

15 Villa Maria Platinum

Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2018 Marlborough

Softer more complex bouquet of Sauvignon Blanc with aromas of ripe yellow fruits, sweet red apple, a white flower moment and gentle aged on lees derived apple pie suggestion. Tasty, textured, crisp and just dry on the palate. Flavours of lemon and grapefruit emerge alongside some red apple, peach and dried pineapple. Plenty of acidity, some spice and generous weight equal a very desirable flavour and texture profile. Totally drinkable today and through 2022.

on the palate with flavours that mirror the nose, medium+ acidity, medium weight, balanced and quite lengthy. Drink now and through 2022. Nice second course wine. POINTS: 90

Contact: www.loveblockwine.com RRP $21.99

19 Ara Single Estate

Sauvignon Blanc 2018 Marlborough

POINTS: 92

Aromas of lemongrass, sweet hay, grapefruit, mango and pineapple. Crisp, dry, fruity and ready with flavours of apples and citrus fruits, tropical notes of pasionfruit and pineapple. Herbaceous grassy notes begin to emerge on the finish. Balanced and well made, drink now and through 2021.

16 Harwood Hall Sauvignon

POINTS: 89

Contact: www.villamariawines.com RRP $24.99

Blanc 2018 Marlborough No mistaking the bouquet of Sauvignon Blanc here - aromas of dry stone and mineral salts, green apple, red apple and grapefruit, some fresh herb and bellpepper notes. Balanced, even, refreshingly crisp, fruity and a dry finish. The complete package in this wine, balanced and well made. Drink now and through 2021. POINTS: 91

Contact: www.harwoodhall.co.nz RRP $19.99

Lawson's Dry Hills

17 Sauvignon Blanc 2018 Marlborough

A complete and classic bouquet of Sauvignon Blanc, with scents of sweet herbs and tropical fruits, lemon and grapefruit flesh, crunchy apple and wet stone minerality suggestions. Dry, fruity and crunchy on the palate with flavours of sweet herb and peach, fresh apple, herbaceous, crisp and dry. Balanced and well made, ready to enjoy today and through 2024.

Contact: www.arawines.co.nz RRP $19.99

20 Selaks The Taste Collection

Zesty Sauvignon Blanc 2018 Hawke's Bay

Varietal, fruity, vibrant and classic bouquet of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Peaches and gooseberry, sweet hay and grapefruit. Some passionfruit and mango moments. Crisp, refreshing and just dry. Flavours mirror the nose with a light floral and white spice lift. Well made. Drink now and through 2021.

POINTS: 88

Contact: www.selaks.co.nz RRP $21.99

POINTS: 91

Contact: www.lawsonsdryhills.co.nz RRP $20.00

18 Loveblock Sauvignon Gris 2014 Marlborough

The bouquet of this organic and vegan wine shows both a complex wine as well as specific bottle-development aromas. Heirloom lemon and pear, tea and other floral spices, some preserved apple and stony soil complexities. Dry

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 35

Alastair Maling MASTER OF WINE

Steve Smith MASTER OF WINE

Simon Nash MASTER OF WINE

David Allen MASTER OF WINE

Sam Harrop MASTER OF WINE

Michael Brajkovich MASTER OF WINE

Emma Jenkins MASTER OF WINE

Cameron Douglas MASTER SOMMELIER

WHITE WINES

Food

Friends YOU CAN'T GO WRONG WITH A GOOD KIWI PINOT GRIS ALONGSIDE YOUR FAVOURITE MEAL

t the heart of quality, Pinot Gris is excellent fruit and great winemaking. All wine regions in New Zealand produce Gris, with a wide range of flavours from white fleshed fruits especially pears, apples and quince to white-fleshed stonefruits such as nectarine and nashi. Pinot Gris responds well to some oak or wood contact too, with the better examples using the medium for texture over wood flavour (both can be great). Acidity is usually medium or slightly above; with the trend towards dry to just dry styles with a core of fruit, a satin or silky texture can be experienced. Some firmer styles of Gris are available as well, often achieved using a little skin contact to add texture. Gris seems to favour a natural fermentation technique which can often add vibrato to the palate. With some extra time on lees a honeysuckle, smoky ginger-like character can be harnessed. What makes Pinot Gris so popular is, in part, its predictable and approachable characteristics. Gris is very food friendly as it marries well with menu items which have soft textures and mildly intense flavours. A creamy fish pasta with a little olive, fresh parmesan and grind of black pepper is an ideal match. When Gris has noticeable oak with a little smoke and baking spice flavours, foods such as smoked chicken or fish tempura are an excellent combination. W

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 37

TASTING NOTES PINOT GRIS

Domain Road Defiance

1 Pinot Gris 2018 Central 1

Otago Very attractive bouquet of Gris - floral, fruity and layered. Flavours of white fleshed fruits, citrus zest and cold stone minerality. Gentle salty note, nice weight and texture in a an off-dry expression. Balanced, lengthy finish. A wine for many Gris fans to enjoy. Drink now and through 2021.

Quite a lush, ripe and fruity bouquet with whispers of a savoury undertone and a touch of barrel spice and complexity. Flavours of white peach, apple and Asian pear, crisp and dry on the finish though a touch of residual sweetness adds in a little satin rounded texture. Balanced throughout the palate - ready to enjoy and through 2020.

Contact: steve@copilotdistributors.co.nz RRP $26.00

Contact: www.nautilusestate.com RRP $29.90

POINTS: 93

Villa Maria Platinum

2 Selection Pinot Gris 2018 3

Marlborough

Creamy, soft and gentle bouquet of Gris with aromas of fresh and poached pear, some apple and white peach. A touch of spice adds depth and complexity. There’s no mistaking the full, rich and spicy layers on the palate. Lush and just dry, warm and generous - dare I say it - quite Alsace-like in flavour, richness and texture. Lovely lengthy finish, persistent and flavoursome. Drink now and through 2021. POINTS: 92

Contact: www.villamariawines.com RRP $24.99

Toi Toi Brookdale

3 Reserve Pinot Gris 2018 Marlborough

A lovely bouquet with intensity, freshness and varietal concentration showing aromas and flavours of honeysuckle, peach and apple then a leesy lightly spiced layer. Medium weight with a firm texture and contrasting core of fruit, dry finish. Drink now and through 2021. POINTS: 90

Contact: www.toitoiwines.co.nz RRP $22.99

Framingham Nobody’s

4 Hero Pinot Gris 2018

Marlborough A great example of Gris to get stuck into - aromas and flavours of fat juicy pear, sweet golden apple and a layer of white spice and hint stone minerality. Balanced and well made with a creamy-ish texture and drifting satisfying finish. Drink now and through 2021. POINTS: 89

Contact: www.framingham.co.nz RRP $19.99 38 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

Nautilus 2017 Pinot Gris

5 Marlborough

POINTS: 89

Seifried Pinot Gris 2018

6 Nelson

Fragrant varietal and spice-led bouquet. On the palate flavours of spicy pear and red apple, a gingery lees flavour adds depth and complexity. Fresh, vibrant and with a definitive varietal intensity reflecting fruit flavours of pear and apple; medium+ acidity, a light leesy moment and lengthy finish. Balanced and well made. Drink now and through 2021. POINTS:89

Contact: www.seifried.co.nz RRP $17.00

Ara Single Estate Pinot

7 Gris 2018 Marlborough

In an off-dry expression this wine will appeal to many Gris fans. Aromas and flavours of white fleshed orchard fruits with a light citrus note - this is accentuated through the texture and on the back palate. Some leesy moemnts with a whisper of ginger spice and white pepper. Overall a lovely wine ready to enjoy today and through 2021. POINTS: 88

Contact: www.arawines.co.nz RRP $19.99

WINE AND FOOD

Cam’s Wine Match

Winner,

winner

JOSH EMETT’S TAKE ON COQ AU VIN IS EVEN MORE DELICIOUS WHEN MADE WITH A GREAT WINE

COMPLEXITY: EASY | PREP TIME: 25 MINUTES, PLUS MARINATING OVERNIGHT COOK TIME: 1 HOUR | SERVES: 4

CHICKEN IN WINE COQ AU VIN Ingredients → 8 chicken legs, skin on → 2 cups plus 1 1/4 tbsp (500 ml) red wine, or just enough to cover the thighs → 2/3 cup plus 2 tsp (150 ml) port → rapeseed/canola oil for cooking → 9 oz (250 g) smoked bacon, diced → 10 baby onions, peeled and quartered → 9 oz (250 g) button mushrooms, halved → 5 whole cloves garlic → 2 cups plus 1 1/4 tbsp (500 ml) beef stock (p. 484) → bunch of thyme handful of parsley, to garnish Method Split the chicken into thighs and drumsticks, place in a plastic container and just cover with the red wine and port. Cover and refrigerate overnight, but mix a few times in the first few hours to ensure that the chicken is properly coated. Next day, pre-heat the oven to 320°F (160°C).

Drain the chicken in a colander placed over a bowl, reserving the liquid for later. Pat the chicken dry with paper towels. Heat some oil in a large ovenproof frying pan over a medium heat,add the chicken, in batches if necessary, and fry until golden brown on all sides. Remove and set aside. Add the bacon and onions to the same pan and fry for about 10 minutes, until golden, then add the mushrooms and garlic and continue to fry until golden and the moisture has gone, about 5 minutes.

If you’re not prepared to drink and enjoy a large glass, don’t put that wine in your food. Using cheap wine in cooking undervalues the dish and effort taken to produce something delicious. Always use a wine you’d happily drink. With natural sweetness of chicken thigh browned and baked, a light smoky note from the bacon and sweet earthy layers from the onion, garlic and mushroom, the Kumeu River Hunting Hill Pinot Noir 2017 is a great match for Josh’s dish. It has an earthy mineral core with complex oak flavours and textures that complement the dish, ripe and slightly tart fruit flavours to contrast. The chicken and parsley challenge the wine’s tannins, making this a delicious and natural combination.

Pour in the reserved wine and port, bring to a light boil and reduce by half. Add the chicken back in at this stage, then add enough beef stock to cover. Bring back to the boil, then skim the surface. Add the thyme, and cover with a cartouche then a lid. Bake in the oven for about 45 minutes. Serve straight away, garnished with parsley, or leave to cool and gently reheat when ready to serve.

Getting into the CRU A MEETING OF MINDS WAS PRELUDE TO A GROUNDBREAKING WINE PARTNERSHIP

n the wine world, the name Steve Smith needs little introduction. A Master of Wine and viticulture specialist, Steve was at the forefront of the Craggy Range brand launch, and has been part of their many successes ever since. Fewer, however, will know Brian Sheth, an American entrepreneur and founder of the market-leading investment firm Vista Equity Partners. Steve and Brian first met in 2012 at the exclusive Cape Kidnappers. At an impromptu wine tasting, the pair discussed the potential for specific exports of fine New Zealand wine to the US. They became firm friends, bonding over passionate conversations about wine, French styles, the environment and the future, sport and music. With so much in common, and the fine wine space opening up, the pair realised there was an opportunity to be had. In wine circles, many a spirited discussion can be overheard about fine wines, that inevitably lead to comparisons in quality and style of the great wines of the world. Bordeaux (Cabernets & Merlot) and Burgundy (Pinot Noir & Chardonnay) are two such examples, where comparisons with Oregon, Tasmania or New Zealand are typical. Steve and Brian recognised that wines like Grand Cru and Premier Cru – words inextricably linked to famous French wines were simply becoming too expensive in New Zealand; ‘new generation’ wine drinkers were ready to embrace a series of new world classics.

40 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

“To deliver wines of exceptional quality requires exceptional vineyards; finding a cool climate with the right soils to deliver outstanding wines with varieties as popular as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah and the Cabernets was no easy task,” says Steve. “It was paramount we found the right sites to establish a sense of place in any wines we produced.” Steve and Brian share the same environmental awareness and are aware of the potential impacts that climate change can have on viticulture. “Finding sites that are sheltered from the impacts of nature are critical to fine wine growing and production,” explains Steve. Two years after he ended his commitments with Craggy Range in 2015, Steve and his family flew to the US to spend more time with Brian’s family. Brian’s experience in the financial sector, coupled with Steve’s expertise in viticulture, winemaking and vision was a perfect match, and in 2016, two companies were formed – Aotearoa New Zealand Fine Wine Estates LP (AONZ), and the Smith & Sheth Wine Company. The partnership was done; now all they needed was to find the perfect location. In 2017 AONZ purchased Pyramid Valley in North Canterbury; and Lowburn Ferry in Central Otago, and a small parcel of land in the Gimblett Gravels appellation of Hawke’s Bay. “The timing was just right; the properties matched our vision perfectly,” says Steve. “Our aim from the beginning was to create excellent wine, with a sustainable, long-term goal.”

Who is the team behind AONZ? The Smith & Sheth CRU winemaking team includes Steve Smith with help from Warren Gibson and Caleb Dennis who looks after the Gimblett Gravels land. The Pyramid Valley wines are made by Huw Kinch. Overseeing the Manata Estate in Cromwell, home to the Lowburn Ferry Home Block Wine and the new Pyramid Valley Central Otago Pinot Noirs is Nick Paulin. Nick was shortlisted in this year’s international ‘Future 50’ awards for young professionals under 40 working in the food and wine industry around the globe. “We are so lucky to have Nick,” says Steve. “He is deeply passionate about viticulture and the whole wine environment, especially the organic and biodynamic principles and practice.” All the AONZ businesses are managed by Michael Henley.

BEHIND CLOSED DOORS

Cam says... In my opinion, (see wine notes on page 62 & 64), Smith & Sheth CRU wines from Hawke’s Bay are serious, world-class fine wines, comparable to any of their fine wine counterparts in the northern hemisphere. The Cantera 2016 Omahu is a particular favourite. Steve and Brian believe strongly in New Zealand’s wine potential, particularly in the cool limestone slopes of the Waikari region in North Canterbury, and on the older, more weathered schist soils of Central Otago. “We also believe Sauvignon Blanc is one of the world’s great varieties that deserves to be recognised as a fine wine. It will continue to be a major part of our portfolio,” says Steve. Smith & Sheth’s CRU, based in Hawke’s Bay, currently has a portfolio containing Albarino; three different expressions of Chardonnay from three separate sites; Cantera (a red blend led by Cabernet); and two Syrahs. An eighth wine, Sauvignon Blanc, is sourced from specific old vine parcels around Renwick township and Sam and Mandy Weavers biodynamic vineyard on the hills above the Waihopai Valley. The recentlyopened the Smith & Sheth Oenotheque To bring all of these wine companies together, Steve and the Heretaunga and Brian opened the Smith & Sheth Cellar Door Studio in Havelock and Wine Lounge and the Heretaunga Studio in the North are a cellar Courtyard of the Village Exchange in Havelock North. door, wine lounge and The studio has a theatre, a lounge and a barrel cellar tasting experience. The experience all rolled into one, the idea being to make Hereatunga Studio it as interactive as possible. Only eight guests at a time takes up to 8 people, can participate in the experience. Sommelier Sonya while the OenothequeEberly heads the wine experience team. Cellar Door and Wine For more information on Smith & Sheth, visit Lounge is open to www.smithandsheth.com more people on a walk up basis. W

Smith & Sheth’s exclusive Exchange

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 41

Fifty Shades

Rosé

f you lined up all the rosé wines available in New Zealand, you’d see at least fifty different colours. From red to pink, onion skin to salmon, all tints of rosé are correct. There is no guidebook on rosé colour, although the trend recently has been towards salmon or pale apricot versions. Rosé can be produced from any red grape variety. Pinot Noir is the most popular in New Zealand, but Merlot, Tempranillo, Syrah, the Cabernets and blends are also widely used. If colour is your thing, choosing a bottle of rosé is easy. Price is not particularly indicative of quality; however, if taste, texture and palate pleasure is a more exciting option, a little more back label reading or wine review check will be needed. Rosé can be made very dry to dry, with most New Zealand styles often justdry. What was once the medium to sweet option is all but gone. Rosé’s invogue status has ushered in a selection of more serious options, growing the range on offer, both at retail and on wine lists. Winemakers looking to produce a more

42 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

A ROSÉ BY ANY OTHER COLOUR TASTES JUST AS SWEET – OR, THESE DAYS, DRY serious expression of rosé pay particular attention towards aroma, complexity and structure for example - using natural fermentation for a portion or all of the juice. The use of older oak adds structure, even extended skin contact for more tannin and grip (the trade-off is more red pigment, but remember all rosé colour is valid). Even capturing a layer of minerality makes for more serious drinking options. Wineries that specifically produce red wine have the option to change the juice-to-skin ratio, allowing winemakers to produce a darker coloured wine. To achieve this they need to bleed away some juice. This process is called Saignée - a French term meaning to ‘bleed’. The juice that is ‘bled’ away after an initial 12 – 24 hours skin contact is used to make rosé. Another option is when the intended outcome uses 100% of the juice available to make a rosé. The particular shade of rosé a producer ends up making depends on skin contact, exposure to oxygen and the use of oak or wine barrels.

TASTING NOTES ROSÉ

Johanneshof Cellars Maybern Single Vineyard Rosé 2017 Marlborough An intriguing, attractive bouquet with a mix of minerality, light red fruits and complexity. Dry, fine and fruity on the palate with a mix of flavours and textures from red pear and red apple, some old strawberry, red tea, medium+ acidity and mineral notes. Lengthy finish; balanced and well made.

POINTS: 93

Contact: www.johanneshof.co.nz RRP $25.00

ME by Matahiwi Estate Rosé 2018

2 Wairarapa

Plush, fruity and refreshingly fragrant bouquet of rosé. Cherry and raspberry, sweet plum and rose. Crisp, fruity, refreshing and dry on the finish. Fruit flavours reflect the nose, lovely acid line and lightweight bright finish. Lots to like, easy to drink. Best from today and through 2020. POINTS: 92

Contact: www.matahiwi.co.nz RRP $19.99

Toi Toi Sara’s Rosé 2018 Marlborough

From a noticeable onion skin hued appearance comes aromas of apple and red plum, a hint of starwberry, rose and saffron. Dry on the palate with flavours that mirror the nose, ultra fine fruit tannins and bright acid line show off the texture and European style this wine is. Dry on the finish with best drinking from today and through 2021. POINTS: 92

Contact: www.toitoiwines.co.nz RRP $14.99

More next page>>

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 43

TASTING NOTES ROSÉ

new zealand is for future generations

Vidal Reserve Rosé 2018 Hawke's Bay

4 Plush, juicy, fruity and inviting bouquet of

Rosé - red berries, sweet red plum and pomegranate. Fleshy, juicy and ripe on the palate with strawberry and cherry fruit highlights, plenty of crisp and refreshing acidity with a satin texture and lengthy finish. Easy to drink in a just-dry style, ready to enjoy between now and late 2019. POINTS: 91

Contact: www.vidal.co.nz RRP $19.99

Selaks The Taste Collection Berries and

5 Cream Rosé 2019 Hawke's Bay

Fresh, ripe, lush and vobrant bouquet of light red berry fruits, rosehip tea and sweet air (just before the rain). Crisp, dry and fruity with flavours of cherry and red berry fruits, cold fruit tea and gentle fruit spice moments. Balanced and well made. Drink now and through 2020. POINTS: 89

Contact: www.selaks.co.nz RRP $21.99

PTS

Hello Sailor Pinot Noir Rosé 2017

6 Marlborough

Fleshy fruity bouquet with strawberry, peach quench and ‘Raro’ tropical fruit mix. A floral and peach side adding an abundance of freshness and familiarity. Crisp, fruity and dry with all the flavours described above. A great summer drinking choice - not too bold, not too serious, just fun. Best from today and through 2019. POINTS: 87

Contact: www.hellosailorwine.co.nz RRP $18.99

SAVE OUR RAREST BIRDS Toi Toi has partnered with Forest & Bird to help save rare native birds like the orange fronted kākāriki. A donation goes to support their work with every bottle sold from our range. Visit toitoiwines.co.nz for T&Cs

NEW ZEALAND WINE

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ORGANICS

Loveblock Sauvignon Blanc

1 2018 Marlborough

Very attractive bouquet of organic and vegan Sauvignon Blanc with a core of fruit then a leeslike spice layer as well as a hint of vanilla. Silky texture on the palate with flavours of citrus and gooseberry, some tropical fruits and persimmon. A tangerine peel note and wild flowers. Plenty of acidity and lengthy finish. What a lovely wine! Drink now and through 2022.

Organic Matters AS SUSTAINABLE PLANTING AND GROWING METHODS BECOME MORE AVAILABLE, ORGANIC WINE IS STARTING TO FIND ITS PLACE IN THE MARKET

ineyard organics is a philosophy, a way of thinking translated into a system that sustains the health of our ecosystems, both above and below ground, and the people who maintain the land. The Maori term ‘Toitu’ explains the philosophy of organics well – that land should be eternally sustainable. The goals of organics include healthy vines, healthy grapes and great wine. The growth of New Zealand organic viticulture has been significant over the past 15 years. Around 10 percent of New Zealand wine producers currently hold organic certification for their vineyards, with many more using organic farming practices without seeking certification. The focus for these systems comes from the philosophy that a vineyard can work in harmony with the rhythms and processes of nature. The term ‘organic’ is often used in everyday food and beverage language for advertising the health benefits of the product to which it is attached. Long

before ‘interventionist’ wine growing and making became common, organic practices were the norm. Interventionist (‘modern’) systems have been used, and still are, to control weeds, crop size and winemaking practices. While there is nothing wrong with this approach if carefully managed, it may include the use of particular equipment, herbicides and pesticides, fertilisers and practices that don’t protect the soil’s natural health and balance. Biodynamics takes the ideas of organics deeper, with a focus on understanding and managing the vineyard as an holistic organism. Biodynamic methods include the use of special plant, animal and mineral preparations which are used for disease prevention, soil nourishment and pest control. An awareness of the need to care for the future that has led to an increasing number of New Zealand producers incorporating organic practices. It has also been proven that there are other longterm benefits and potential cost savings to be made. W

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.loveblockwine.com RRP $21.99

Villa Maria Platinum Selection

2 Organic Pinot Noir 2017 Marlborough

Ripe, light red fruit aromas deliver freshness and ripeness on the nose. Suggestions of raspberry and redcurrant, cherry and red apple. Gentle wood spices emerge as it relaxes in glass, with a moderate toasty signature. Dry on palate, with plenty of core fruit. Youthful, fresh and vibrant, with vibrant fine tannins, toasty wood and brown spices, gently warming alcohol and fruit-led finish. Balanced; lots to like. Drink now and through 2024. POINTS: 92

Contact: www.villamariawines..com RRP $29.99

Loveblock Pinot Gris 2018

3 Marlborough

Enticing Gris; fleshy and juicy white peach, pear and yellow apple aromas in this organic vegan wine. Noticeable white pepper and light lees layer, suggesting ginger and barley sugar. Just dry on the palate, with flavours reflecting the nose, bright white spice note returns. Drink now and through 2020. POINTS: 89

Contact: www.loveblockwine.com RRP $21.99

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 45

Label Language WHETHER YOU BUY YOUR WINE ONLINE, A LOCAL LIQUOR OUTLET OR SPECIALIST WINE STORE, YOUR PURCHASE DECISIONS ARE ALWAYS - OR AT LEAST - MADE PARTLY ON TRUST. CAMERON UNCOVERS SOME OF THE SECRETS BEHIND THE MEANING OF WINE LABELS

’m often asked to decode or explain wine label language - from grape variety and pronunciation, to back label wording and the meaning behind stickers. All wine sold in New Zealand, including imported wine, must follow the labelling and composition rules and requirements of the Food Standards Australia New Zealand (FSANZ) code. If a wine label announces a grape variety or varieties, a vintage or region of origin statement (for example, Chardonnay 2018 Marlborough), this means 85% of the variety, vintage and geography must be as stated. Producers can vary the other 15% - perhaps including the use of other varieties, regions and vintages to complete aroma, palate feel and balance – though most wines are 100% as stated.

ADDITIVES

Most, if not all, wine is clear, with no haze or unusual-looking suspended matter. During vinification, most winemakers use a substance to assist in making a wine clear and consumer ready. A growing number of people now react to additives in food and beverage products, and many make lifestyle choices around animal products. Reactions to additives in wine are actually extremely rare (current research supports this).

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•

Fish products, typically isinglass, may be used to remove tannins, making wine feel softer and more balanced. Egg white, or albumen may also be used for the same effect, removing tannin, particularly in red wine. Milk and milk products are used to remove compounds associated with bitterness and browning.

“Preservative 220’ is a common term for the use of sulphites” According to the New Zealand MPI (Ministry for Primary Industries), a wine label must include an allergen declaration, if milk, egg and fish (except isinglass, which is not an allergan) are present. All wine is decanted off any sediments before bottling so any trace amounts are extremely low. If a label states ‘bottled unfined’ this will indicate that a wine has not been subject to any of the processes listed above, keeping the texture of the wine as the winemaker intended. As a taster you may notice more complexity and texture. Many wines are passed through a filter or membrane before bottling, rendering it clear. The winemaker

may choose not to filter the wine, to keep a particular texture and complexity. Additives like sulphites are used as part of the bottling process for wine, and trace amounts may remain in the wine. A label may say ‘Contains sulphites’ (very common, but used in extremely tiny amounts). Sulphites and sulphur are natural elements, modified to be used as liquid or gas to stave off or neutralise bacteria, and slow the effects of oxygen on wine. If preservatives are used (usual practice) then this must be declared on the label.

VEGAN AND ORGANIC

Vegan wines are increasingly popular. This means there are no animalbased agents like milk, fish or gelatin used in the winemaking, stabilisation or filtering process. I am frequently asked about the status of sulphites – they are 100% vegan. ‘Organic’ or ‘biodynamic’ refers to philosophies around grape-

INSIDE VOICES

Scores & Stickers

growing and winemaking. No chemical pesticides, herbicides and manufactured fertilisers are used in or around the vineyard and winery, nor are artificial additives, making these wines a good choice for wine drinkers sensitive to particular compounds. Biodynamic wineries follow the lunar calendar, apply particular tea preparations, homemade compost and other plant life to enhance soil health, and for weed control and vine growth. The organic movement in New Zealand is significant enough that increasing numbers of producers practice. Some wonderful examples pass through my tasting table (see page 45).

FINE WINES OF NEW ZEALAND

Some of the best wines in New Zealand are regularly rated by wellknown critics, or through wine competition events (though there are select wineries who don’t enter,

for many reasons including supersmall production or already sold out production). The most recent addition to the review process here has been the Fine Wines of New Zealand programme, of which I am a proud member (see marked bottles in my Tasting Notes). This Air New Zealand-supported programme is available to producers of wine in New Zealand. It is not a wine competition, but an opportunity to showcase current release wines to a team of local Masters of Wine and a Master Sommelier (yours truly). If the wines meet the rigid standards, samples of older vintages are also reviewed to demonstrate potential longevity and style consistency. There are no gold stickers – rather a recognition of prestige and confirmation from some experienced and knowledgeable palates that the wine represents the best from New Zealand, making it an excellent purchase decision. W

There are a plethora of brightlycoloured award stickers. In the very competitive world of wine any recognition of quality a producer receives can become very important, so it pays to be aware of the meaning and significance (or otherwise) of these accolades. Some wine lovers will talk to their friends or a trusted sommelier, some to wine store hosts - others regularly read wine reviews and scores to assist in their decisions. Displaying scores and accolades by way of stickers on the bottle can unquestionably be a successful marketing tool - those gold, silver or bronze decals draw attention, and a high score or critic review can be a recipe for successful sales. But. What do all these scores, stickers and reviews mean for you? Wine scoring originated in wine competitions to allow a group of judges to recognise quality wine by using a relative scale. Many wine writers and critics adopted the strategy for their own reviews – these days I, like many others, use the one hundred point scale (see page 7), though some use the 20 Point, or *star* awards. An 88/100 score generally equals a very nice wine, equivalent to a bronze in a wine show. On the same scale, 95/100 equals an excellent wine – which will translate to a gold sticker if that is offered (silver sits between). The Star system is also recognised by consumers. It’s an easy-to-follow, simple for consumers to understand system (for example, 3.5 Stars would be a recommended wine and 5 Stars an excellent example). Some wine producers choose to display layers of stickers, or worse - make labels littered with stickers in the design. I am not a fan of this approach. Take care to read stickers – while some represent a genuine review from a recognised critic, wine competition, or reputable magazine panel, others may simply refer to an award the winery has received.

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 47

SPARKLING WINES

Modern

Methodes U

nwrapping the foil, six half twists of the wire, hold the cork and turn the bottle; the pressure builds and then…. a gentle sigh (or pop!) as the pressure equalises with the outside world.You’ve just opened a bottle of happiness sparkling wine. For many of us, sparkling wine is the wine of celebration, to toast an occasion or to gift to a special person. Whatever the reason for buying bubbles, we are spoiled for choice when it comes to producers and price. Great sparkling shows elegance, finesse, poise and tension, white fleshed fruits and citrus, a fine mousse texture with a gazillion bubbles and a long complex finish. The best New Zealand sparkling wines are produced using the Methode Traditionnelle process. Only the French region of Champagne can use the term Champagne and the Methode Champenoise process. New Zealand bottled fermented sparkling wines use the Methode Traditionnelle process – which is exactly the same as the French. Typically made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in New Zealand, base wines are blended then refermented in bottle, aged on yeast lees for 12 to 48 months (or longer) then disgorgement of yeast - the process of removing the spent yeast from the bottle after the ageing process is complete. Style created (Brut Nature, Brut or Demi-Sec are common), the cork is wired down, then it’s label on, and off to market. W

48 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

Cameron’s Top Tipples

These are my top fifteen. • NO1 Family Estate Reserve Blanc de Blancs NV • Quartz Reef Blanc de Blancs 2013 • Nautilus Marlborough Cuvée Brut NV • Cloudy Bay Pelorus Rosé NV • Deutz Blanc de Blancs 2015 • Tohu Rewa Rosé 2015 • Aotea Methode Traditionnelle NV • Hunter's MiruMiru™ Reserve 2015 • Akarua Brut 2015 • Akarua Rosé Brut NV • NO1 Family Estate Cuvée Adele 2013 • NO1 Family Estate Cuvée Remy 2013 • Quartz Reef Rosé NV • Palliser Estate The Griffin 2015

n 1971 our father Hermann arrived in New Zealand with a dream of making great wines. He and our mother Agnes, pioneered modern winemaking in the Nelson region, planting the first vines and in 1976 producing their first wines. Now over 40 years later we celebrate their vision, and the arrival of the next generation, our children, who are growing up in the vineyard and winery. Our family, and very dedicated team are proud to craft internationally renowned wines in this very special corner of the world. Wines made for sharing.

NELSON MÉTHODE TRADITIONNELLE NV AWARDED

Champion Sparkling Wine Gold Medal

Air New Zealand Wine Awards 2017 “Exquisitely expressed and supremely elegant with white stone-fruit, lemon bread and yeasty characters, wonderfully enhanced by fine texture and zesty acidity.” Judges Comments, Air NZ Wine Awards 2017

www.seifried.co.nz @seifriedestate

TASTING NOTES BUBBLES

Akarua Rosé Brut Non

1 Vintage Marlborough

A beautiful bouquet of rosé with aromas of crushed strawberry, red cherry and red apple. A core of autolysis suggests biscuit and bread with a soft ginger spice moment. Dry, explosive mousse, packed with red fruit and peach flavours, some mandarin peel and yeasty messages. High acidity, crisp, dry, lengthy, balanced and well made. Lots to love. Drink now and through 2026. POINTS: 95

Contact: www.akarua.com RRP $38.00

Palliser Estate The Griffin

4 2015 Martinborough

Complex bouquet of sparkling wine centering on a brioche and biscuity autolysis followed by scents of white strawberry, citrus and white flowers. Dry, weighty, fruity and very tasty on the palate. Flavours reflect the nose with a white fleshed fruits core, a delicate mineral layer, refreshingly crisp mousse and precise lengthy finish. Apertif style, great with food. Drink now and through 2025. POINTS: 91

Nautilus Cuvée

Hunter's MiruMiruTM

2 Brut Non-Vintage

3 Reserve 2015

Marlborough

Complex and enticing bouquet with a light savoury core surrounded by aromas and flavours white peach, an array of citrus and strawberry. Dry, silky, fleshy, fruity, savoury and complex. Very fine mousse with high acidity, a soft brioche and yeasty layer, balanced lengthy finish. Drink now and through 2026. POINTS: 95

Contact: www.nautilusestate.com RRP $44.95

Hunter's MiruMiruTM Non

5 Vintage Marlborough

Lovely bouquet with a fruity, leesy attack, some spice and balanced bottled development complexity. Crisp and dry with a lemon and crunchy apple flavours, a soft yeasty quality and fine mousse. Balanced and well made. A wine to please many who like bubbles. Drink now and through 2022. POINTS: 91

Contact: www.hunters.co.nz RRP $28.90

50 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

A bouquet of a wine that is ready to enjoy. Integrated aromas of peach and apple, a nutty autolysis and minerality. Bold and expressive mousse on the palate carrying and emphasising flavours of baked stone-fruits, strawberry, apple and a biscuity brioche warmth. Abundant acidity and concentration ensures this wine will continue to age for the next few years. Drink now and through 2024. POINTS: 92

Contact: www.hunters.co.nz RRP $38.90

Pask Declaration

6 Methode Traditionnelle 2010 Hawke’s Bay A bold and rich bouquet packed with a nutty, yeasty and yellow stone-fruits. Dry, firm and crisp on the palate with flavours of lemon, apple and custard brioche. Quite weighty and fullbodied richness. With some bottle development and nutty spice layers, a wine with some complexity and intrigue. Drink now and through 2022. POINTS: 90

Contact: www.pask.co.nz RRP $30.00

Contact: www.palliser.co.nz RRP $53.00

Marlborough

A Giesen Wine For All Occasions. CONTACT YOUR GIESEN GROUP REPRESENTATIVE OR PHONE 03 344 6270

Aromatically Speaking A

ll wines have aroma, a signature set of smells that define the variety or blend of varieties used. Winemaking techniques such as the use of oak or extra time spent on lees post ferment contribute to the final package of smells referred to as ‘aroma’. The term ‘aromatic’ refers to a specific category of white grape varieties which contain an extra set of naturally-occurring compounds called ‘terpenes’. Terpenes enhance, even amplify the spice, fruit and floral scents of wine. This makes them particularly distinctive. Terpenes emerge in certain varieties to a greater or lesser degree based on growing conditions such as soil, climate and viticulture practices. The following wines are all classified as aromatic or semi-aromatic and are readily available in New Zealand: Wurzer, Gewürztraminer, Muscat, Torrontes, Albarino, Riesling, Muller Thurgau and Pinot Gris. These wines are floral, fruity and can be quite intense on both the nose and palate

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with moderate acidity. Textures ranges from soft and creamy to satin or silky and crisp. Gewürztraminer is the most intense and exotic of the aromatic varieties with flavours of tropical fruits, roses and spices. Descriptors such as lavender, talcum powder, pineapple, white pepper and even apple strudel have been used to describe the wine. If you’re a whiz in the kitchen and keen on food to serve with aromatic wines, look to lush, creamy dishes. Paté, tofu or cream of pumpkin soup work deliciously well, while wet textured proteins such as pork or sous-vide chicken and turkey are an excellent match. Asian cuisine is a common pairing with aromatic varieties, but be careful to stick to fragrant spiced menu items, like lemongrass and galangal. Heat spices in Asian dishes in general inflame the spice and alcohol in the wine, rendering the pairings impossible. Wines that have a noticeable residual sweetness such as an off-dry Riesling often work well with spicy dishes. W

TASTING NOTES AROMATICS

Pegasus Bay Bel Canto

1 Riesling 2017 North

Churton Petit Manseng

Canterbury Complex and vibrant bouquet of Riesling with aromas then flavours of lemon flesh, pith & zest, green and red apple with a pungent honeysuckle, mandarin and limeflower core. Pristine acid line, great weight and texture, youthful with a long complex finish. Best from 2021 through 2031.

Very specific bouquet; exotic, individual and captivating. Quince, baked pineapple and candied fruits. Floral, fresh, youthful and complex. Delicious on the palate with an electric acidity, plush and exotic flavours, quite sweet, but well balanced, lengthy persistent finish. Lots of sweetness to enjoy; great with a rhubarb clafoutis. Drink now and through 2024.

Contact: www.pegasusbay.com RRP $37.00

Contact: www.churton-wines.co.nz RRP $43.99

POINTS: 95

Askerne Reserve

4 Gewürztraminer 2018 Hawke’s Bay A complex and interesting bouquet, with aromas of dried herbs and spices, then baked pineapple, pear and apple. Dry on the palate, with a dried herb-led package of flavours, lemon and apple, tropical fruits and flowers, complex. Fairly lengthy finish, nicely balanced and well made. Drink now and through 2021. POINTS: 93

Contact: www.askernewines.co.nz RRP $29.90

Johanneshof

2 2016 Marlborough

POINTS: 95

3 Gewürztraminer 2018 Marlborough

Fragrant and complex, subtle and layered, fruity and varietal. A well defined and fine example of this variety with layers of tree and tropical fruits, roses, elderflower, spices and gentle creamy texture. A delicious wine with a core of minerality, some white pepper-laced pear, quince and apple, honeysuckle and rose. Elegant and ready. Drink now and through 2022. POINTS: 94

Contact: www.johanneshof.co.nz RRP $35.00

Loveblock

Giesen Gemstone

5 Gewürztraminer 2018 Marlborough Fragrant, floral, fruity, spicy and very attractive bouquet of this vegan Gewürztraminer. Flavours of whitefleshed fruits, rice pudding, white flowers and baking spices, a soft herbaceous layer and white stone mineral core. Weighty and creamy, lengthy and delicious. Perfect wine for Peking Duck. Drink now and through 2023. POINTS: 93

Contact: www.loveblockwine.com RRP $21.99

6 Riesling 2018

Marlborough Totally enticing aromas of Riesling, with mandarin and lime flower, apple and lemon. Off-dry, with a noticeable residual sweetness, refreshing acidity, a light creamy texture and flavours that reflect the nose. Drink now and through 2025. POINTS: 92

Contact: www.giesenwines.co.nz RRP $18.99

More next page>>

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 53

TASTING NOTES AROMATICS

Tohu Whenua Matua

7 Single Vineyard Albariño 2017 Upper Moutere, Nelson An immediate appeal on the nose; exotic aromas of fruit tree blossom and peach, orange piko tea, apple and lemon curd. Exotic too on the palate honesuckle and fruit spice, peach then lemon, orange piko tea and ginger spice with lees complexity. Nice weight with a core of fruit and contrasting acidity. A seamless transition on the palate from stonefruit to citrus and a lengthy finish. Drink now and through 2022. POINTS: 92

Old Coach Road Riesling

8 2017 Nelson

Aromas and flavours of ripe sweet citrus and apricot stone. A simple yet fragrant wine with fresh crunchy textures from high acidity and wet stone minerality. Refreshing, just dry, loads of flavour with white peach, a touch of green tea and lemon. Ideal as an aperitif or with simple appetisers such as oysters and mussels. Drink now and through 2022. POINTS: 91

Contact: www.seifried.co.nz RRP $13.00

Palliser Estate Riesling

9 2018 Wairarapa

A really lovely bouquet of Riesling with aromas and flavours of white rose and lemon, crunchy apple with a leaning towards Granny Smith, white apricot, wet stone and soft silty mineral undertone. Plenty of acidity, crisp, refreshing and dry on the finish. Drink now and through 2024. POINTS: 91

Contact: www.palliser.co.nz RRP $25.00

www.tohuwines.co.nz/whenuaseries RRP $29.99

10 Yealands Estate Single

Estate Gewürztraminer 2018 Awatere Valley Very fragrant, floral, fruity varietal, with aromas of honeysuckle and white peach, roses and sweet lychee, pears and apples and loads of spice. Really nice silky texture on the palate with flavours that match the nose, medium acidity and a lengthy calm finish, always returning to the spice layer. Balanced and well made. Drink now and through 2022. POINTS: 91

Contact: www.yealands.co.nz RRP $25.00

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Yealands Estate Single

12 Loveblock Riesling 2014

Awatere Valley Floral, precise and fruity bouquet with aromas and flavours of lemon and white peach, ripe green apple and rose. Crisp and dry, lightweight on the palate and refreshingly lengthy finish. A lovely aperitif option and great with delicate seafoods or summer salads. Drink now and through 2026.

Varietal, fruity and floral with aromas of green apple, lemon and jasmine. Off-dry on the palate with a noticeable sweetness and flavours that mirror ther nose. Very youthful with a nervous tension from the acidity contrasted by lemon and apple flavours. Decent length and finish. Best to wait a year or two before exploring this wine again 2021 through 2026 should be best.

11 Vineyard Riesling 2018

POINTS: 90

Contact: www.yealands.co.nz RRP $25.00

Marlborough

POINTS: 88

Contact: www.loveblockwine.com RRP $21.99

RED WINES

I see

red!

SELECTING THE APPROPRIATE RED WINE FOR AN OCCASION OR MEMORABLE MOMENT IS VERY PERSONAL, DEPENDING ON YOUR PARTICULAR STYLE OR TASTE. DO SOME HOMEWORK TO HELP YOU DISCOVER SOMETHING DIFFERENT - YOU WON'T REGRET IT

hen it comes to diversity and quality, our NZ red wines are pretty impressive. Pinot Noir is a good example. It has a wonderful way of reflecting the site where it is grown or a thread of flavour that the producer likes to harness. The use of whole-bunch (as opposed to de-stemmed) fruit as a percentage of the finished wine is quite common. So too is the use of oak and how long the wine matures for in barrel, which impacts heavily on the final taste. Less preservative at bottling, un-fined and unfiltered are two more influences of texture and taste. All these ideas speak to the style, flavour and expression that a producer is trying to convey. Two example Pinots Noir that will

allow your adventurous side to take charge are Grasshopper Rock and Lowburn Ferry. Syrah is the jewel in the vinous crown of New Zealand. The variety has been part of our wine scene for some time, but has lived somewhat in the shadow of Pinot Noir and Cabernet. Not anymore. Northland, Waiheke Island, Gisborne, Hawke's Bay, Wairarapa and Marlborough all have excellent examples to consider. The aroma and taste profile of Syrah is somewhat particular though with black currant and spices, raspberry and aged meats, pepper, violets, bold tannins and a backbone of acidity. An excellent food wine for sure. Two must try examples include Villa Maria’s Reserve and Te Mata Estate Bullnose. W

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 55

Pinosity OF ALL NEW ZEALAND WINES, PINOT NOIR IS ARGUABLY THE MOST FAMOUS, AND DIVERSE, OF THEM ALL

inot Noir really is ‘Romance in a Glass’. Sommeliers and wine professionals, collectors of fine wine and even beginners to wine appreciation fall in love with Pinot Noir time and time again. The are many reasons why, but most of them centre on the beguiling and seductive scents Pinot Noir can reveal. Cherry, strawberry and raspberry flavours of every kind, colour and ripeness, to organic and inorganic minerality, mushroom, truffle, and baking spices. Fine to chalky tannins, layers of oak and subtle wood smoke all play their part in creating the synergy and tease that can make Pinot so enticing. Pinot Noir takes time to get used to. Some examples, often the best ones, are led by stubborn tannins, outspoken acidity, whole-bunch and a savoury attack - to the point that the core of pure fruit can be missed. Pinot Noir is often not drinkable upon release, because the tannins and acidity overpower the finer textures and harmonies that come from bottle age and integration. Ultimately, finding Pinots Noir that are drinkable soon, versus those requiring cellar time, will take both a budget - and patience - to taste through the range available. A few shortcuts can be made by reading wine notes and reviews of wine commentators that you trust. W

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 57

TASTING NOTES PINOT NOIR

Akarua The Siren Pinot

1 Noir 2016 Central Otago

Varietal, youthful, specific and captivating bouquet with voices of place and fruit, a steely raw energy, very specific barrel use with spice white smoke qualities. There's a ‘je ne sais quoi’ attribute as well - a certain synergy of floral and mineral. A core of fruit and sweet oak flavours on the palate; spices, flowers and harmony. Long finish, complex and excellent. Best window for drinking 2020 through 2030. POINTS: 97

Contact: www.akarua.com RRP $110.00

Ostler Caroline's Pinot Noir

2 2016 Waitaki Valley

Complex, attractive and layered bouquet. Mineral then fruit, wood smoke and dark spices. Fantastic on the palate with a core of dark cherry and plum, oak spices and a core of minerality. Very floral, dried herbs and tea. Chalky tannins, vibrant youthful texture, long finish. A fantastic wine. Best from 2022 through 2030+. POINTS: 97

Contact: www.ostlerwine.co.nz RRP $65.00

Quartz Reef Pinot Noir

3 2017 Central Otago

Complex, youthful core of fruit and wood spices. Layers of dried herb and exotic tea. Dry and equally complex on the palate with flavours that mirror the nose, plus many more emerging and evolving as the wine opens up in the glass. Firm youthful tannins and acidity to match, a core of fruit and minerality suggesting crushed rocks. Dried herb, layers of wood spice, lengthy finish, youthful and dry. Best from 2022 through 2032. POINTS: 96

Contact: www.quartzreef.co.nz RRP $$65.00

Domain Road Defiance

58 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

4 Pinot Noir 2016 Central Otago A complex bouquet, with ripe dark berries and baking spices, a core of dark cherry, baked raspberry, clove and vanilla, smoked wood and violet. Equally complex on the palate with flavours that mirror the nose. The core of red berry fruit flavours underpins layers of texture from firm youthful tannins and acidity, new oak and flavour synergies that can only come from excellent fruit and

proper winemaking. Complex lengthy finish. Drink from 2020 through 2030+. POINTS: 96

Contact: www.domainroad.co.nz RRP $65.00

Villa Maria Single Vineyard

5 Taylors Pass Pinot Noir 2013 Marlborough Fantastic complex and engaging bouquet of Pinot Noir, with flavours of wild red berries of the forest, savoury baking and wood spices and a deep engaging complexity. Dry, savoury detailed and delicious with a core of fruit and appealing texture from fine abundant tannins and plenty of acidity. Long complex finish. Best from 2019 through 2029. POINTS: 96

Contact: www.villamariawines.com RRP $59.99

Tohu Whenua Awa Single

6 Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017

Awatere Valley Marlborough Smoky with a core of red fruits, baking spices, dark cherry, raspberry and plum, then rose and red zinger tea. Dry on the palate with a core of fruit, exotic red tea, firm chalky tannins and plenty of acidity. The oak and smoky wood suggestions layer in on the finish, highlighting a dried herb and stony mineral suggestion. Well made, complex and lengthy. Cellar time needed to complete the integration of flavours and textures. POINTS: 96

Contact: www.tohuwines.co.nz/ whenuaseries RRP $41.99

China Girl by Crown Range

7 Cellar Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2016 Central Otago Complex bouquet of Pinot Noir with exotic barrel spices, a Central Otago core of raspberry and dark red cherry fruits, smoky French oak and soft wild thyme. Equally complex and intense on the palate with textures of chalky tannins and medium+ acidity, crushed schist and flinty mineral earthy qualities then a core of red berry fruits. Varietal, youthful, tense and poised for cellar ageing. Balanced and well made. Best drinking from 2021 through 2028. POINTS: 95

Contact: www.crownrangecellar.com RRP $69.99 More next page>>

Discover perfection within

www.nautilusestate.com Drink responsibly

WINE AND FOOD

Warm in

Winter

A GOOD MULLED WINE REQUIRES A FRUITY FLAVOUR BASE FIRST AND FOREMOST

MULLED WINE Ingredients → 1 bottle Selaks Reserve Merlot Cabernet → 1 orange, peeled (reserve zest) and thinly sliced → 3-4 slices thinly-cut lemon, peeled (reserve zest) → 1 cinnamon stick → 8 cloves → 2 star anise → 3 cardamom pods, lightly crushed to release scent → 1 bay leaf → 2 tablespoons brown sugar (more if you like it sweet) Method Preheat oven to 120°. Spread orange and lemon zests evenly on a lined baking tray and bake gently for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, pour Selaks Reserve Merlot Cabernet into a saucepan. Add the orange slices, cinnamon, cloves, star anise, cardamom and bay leaf. Heat until warm and barely simmering, do not boil. Simmer wine for at least 30 minutes, longer is fine. Add the brown sugar, stir to dissolve and then taste. Strain to remove spices and serve with baked zests to garnish.

60 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

Cam’s Wine Match A recipe for great mulled wine requires a decent wine base on which to build a seductive aroma and flavour base. The Selaks Reserve Merlot Cabernet steps up nicely, with a core of dark berry and plum fruit flavours to contrast the recipes aromatic spices. The wine’s back bone of acidity and fine tannins add additional tactile elements for a decent winter imbibe.

TASTING NOTES PINOT NOIR

Domain Road Paradise

8 Pinot Noir 2015 Central Otago

Complex bouquet of Pinot Noir with strawberry and red cherry, plum, old rose, dried herb, thyme and brown spices, combined with some bottle age. Equally complex on the palate, with layers of flavours and textures from roses and plums to cherry and rose, tea and brown spices. Fine tannins, abundant and chalky. Medium acidity, plenty of oak, balanced and well made with a long finish. Drink now and through 2025. POINTS: 95

Contact: www.domainroad.co.nz RRP $85.00

Greystone Vineyard

9 Fermented Pinot Noir 2017 North Canterbury

Complex and interesting bouquet. Aromas of old rose and tea, sweet cherry and old orchard apple, hints of leather and spice, loaded with clay and limestone-like mineral voices and just a little bit sexy. Dry, firm, youthful, textured and packed with charm and a little mystery. Chalky tannins, plenty of acidity, lengthy persistent finish. Very nice wine. Drink now and through 2025. POINTS: 95

Contact: www.greystonewines.co.nz RRP $75.00

10 Holly Matahiwi Pinot Noir 2018 Wairarapa Lovely bouquet with a smoky, darker berry bouquet, dark cherry and strawberry, clove and vanilla wood spices. Complex. Very youthful and dry on the palate with flavours that mirror the nose. Plenty of texture from fruit and wood tannins and flavours from the oak of smoke and brown baking spices. Nice finish. Youthful. Ready in a year or two. Decant if drinking before 2022. Best from then and until 2028. POINTS: 94

Contact: www.matahiwi.co.nz RRP $39.99

Kumeu River Hunting Hill

11 Pinot Noir 2017 Auckland

One of the few Pinots Noir produced in Auckland, this wine has an old-world feel about it, with an earthy mineral core, red cherry and cranberry with a strawberry moment and complex oak flavours. The texture is vibrant and youthful, with fine

to moderate tannins reflective of both fruit and oak, balanced acid line and long finish. The complexity builds as the wine opens up in glass. A wine to savour and enjoy now and through 2025.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.kumeuriver.co.nz RRP $50.00

12 Palliser Estate Pinot Noir 2018 Martinborough

Reflecting its origins, the bouquet shows off a core of minerality then fresh red berry fruit aromas, cherry and strawberry. Fine chalky tannins, ripe and refreshing acidity, no mistaking the use of oak, but well placed. Lengthy mineral based finish. Drink now and through 2026. POINTS: 94

Contact: www.palliser.co.nz RRP $59.00

13 Pegasus Prima Donna

Pinot Noir 2015 North Canterbury Beguiling and attractive bouquet with alluring scents of new season raspberry, plum compote and wild berries. Very youthful, raw and new with an oak-centric layer on the palate, contrasting fruit, tannins need time to integrate, plenty of acidity. A wine that needs a peaceful rest in your cellar still, with best drinking 2021 through 2027+. POINTS: 95

Contact: www.pegasusbay.co.nz RRP $95.00

14 Pyramid Valley Angel

Flower Pinot Noir 2016 North Canterbury Flowers, brown spices, earth and mineral moments, tea and pressed roses - the very nature of the bouquet is one of complexity and intrigue. On the palate: complex, dry, savoury and earthy. Flavours reflect the bouquet, texture is something different - more savoury and intense with dried herb and fine tannins, a natural level of acidity and complexity. Long and intriguing finish. Well made, youthful and natural. Drink now and through 2026+.

POINTS: 95

Contact: www.pyramidvalley.co.nz RRP $125.00

More next page>>

WORLD OF WINE â&#x20AC;&#x201C; WINTER 2019 61

TASTING NOTES PINOT NOIR

15 Tohu Whenua Matua Single

Vineyard Pinot Noir Upper Moutere Nelson A pinosity-packed bouquet; aromas of red apple and rose, tea and red cherry. Clove and vanilla spices are intense, with a French oaky toasty wood complexity. Delicious on the palate; quite dry with firm tannins and plenty of acidity; a core of fruits and oak, with some minerality layer. Youthful, medium weight and complex. Decant for service; best drinking late 2021 through 2027. POINTS: 95

Contact: www.tohuwines.co.nz/whenuaseries RRP $34.99

19 Auntsfield Single Vineyard

Pinot Noir 2017 Marlborough

Rich and vibrant colour with aromas and flavours of plums, dark cherries and oak to match the power of the bouquet and colour. Dry, with abundant core of fruit with fruit & oak tannins, plenty of acidity and long finish. A powerful, rich and complex example. Best from 2020 through 2030. POINTS: 94

Contact: www.auntsfield.co.nz RRP $45.00

20 Domain Road Single Vineyard

Pinot Noir 2017 Central Otago

16 Villa Maria Single Vineyard The Attorney Pinot Noir 2015 Marlborough

Bright, fresh, sophisticated and youthful, with aromas of dark cherry, red apple and plum, some vanilla and lighter clove brown spice notes, complex and engaging. Dry, firm and youthful. Flavours reflect the nose, enhanced by elegant-yet-firm tannins and medium+ acidity. Youthful, needing some cellar time. Decant for service. Best from late 2019 through 2026. POINTS: 95

Contact: www.villamariawines.com RRP $69.99

A richly-scented bouquet of Pinot Noir with aromas of dark berries, wood spices, wild thyme and a core of savoury complexity. Plum and dark cherry, blackcurrant and wildflowers, stony, rocky outcrop minerality. Youthful, tense, firm and focused textures on the palate with flavours that reflect the nose dark berries then wood spices, some wild thyme and undergrowth moments. Youthful tannins and acid line. Lengthy finish, dry, well made, youthful. Best from 2021 through 2029. POINTS: 94

Contact: www.akitu.wine RRP $60.00

18 Akitu A2 Central Otago 2017 Central Otago

Youthfully vibrant and fruity bouquet, with aromas of raspberries, dark cherries, red apple and savoury mineral combinations. Some spicy oak suggestions add complexity. Equally vibrant on the palate with flavours which mirror the nose, abundant fruit and oak tannins. Acidity and oak add additional texture. A wine to enjoy today if decanted, otherwise best from 2020 through 2026. POINTS: 94

Contact: www.akitu.wine RRP $45.00 62 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.domainroad.co.nz RRP $40.00

21 Pyramid Valley Earth Smoke

Pinot Noir 2016 New Zealand

Akitu A1 Pinot Noir 2016 17 Central Otago

Lovely Pinot Noir bouquet; aromas of dark red berries, violets and roses; baking spices, dried herb and dry stone minerality. Quite complex but youthful. Nice on the palate with a mix of wild red fruits, tart dark cherry and dried raspberry. Firm, youthful tannins, abundant acidity and core of fruit; perfect for longevity. Noticeable oak and spice layers, well made and a lengthy finish. Best from 2021 through 2029.

A distinctive bouquet: earth, steely and haunting, with aromas of soil, fresh and pressed flowers, tea and mixed red berry fruits. Dry on the palate with silty soil and fine tanning textures, balanced acidity and flavours melding with the bouquet. A thinker's Pinot Noir, with a lengthy finish. Drink now and through 2022. POINTS: 94

Contact: www.pyramidvalley.co.nz RRP $125.00

22 Te Mata Alma Pinot Noir 2018 Hawke's Bay

An expressive, velvety bouquet with youthful power and energy, and a core of fruit, oak and savoury complexity. Perfectly weighted on the palate; dry, savoury and fruity with plum, cherry and spice. Whispers of dark rose and stony minerality. Unmistakable oak impact and whole bunch approach, but with enough weight and fruit to carry it. A young wine with a complexity that should carry well into bottle development phase. Best decanted for service with ideal drinking 2021 through 2026. POINTS: 94

Contact: www.temata.co.nz RRP $60.00

TASTING NOTES PINOT NOIR

23 Wooing Tree Pinot Noir 2017

27 Lake Chalice The Raptor

Distinctive bouquet with a smoky, fruity core and enticing complexity. Flavours of dark cherry and black rose, black currant and vanilla, plum and crushed stone. Dry with a plenty of tannins and acidity, youthful and developing complexities. Very young still needing cellar time. Best from 2022 through 2030.

Toasty, savoury, fruity and integrated bouquet of Pinot with aromas of red berries, brown spices and dry stone minerality. A dry wine, with a core of red berry fruit and savoury earthy flavours. No mistaking the acidity and bite of tannins with a fresh tart fruit finish. A wine that needs some more time to settle and harmonise its various attributes. Best from 2021 through 2026.

Central Otago

POINTS: 94

Contact: www.wooingtree.co.nz RRP $48.00

24 Luna Estate Pinot Noir 2017 Martinborough

Complex and enticing bouquet of Pinot, with layers of new oak, ripe red berry fruits, baking spices and earthy - mushroom and silty clay layers. On the palate: dry with textures and flavours reflective of the nose; raspberry and dried strawberry, cherry then earthy moments of mushroom and soil; decent amount of oak, firmer youthful tannins. Well made; drink now and through 2026. POINTS: 93

Contact: www.lunaestate.co.nz RRP $26.00

25 Te Mata Estate Vineyards

Pinot Noir 2018 Hawke's Bay Immediately varietal, tense, focused bouquet. Dark cherry, a host of light red berry fruit, savoury note and fresh baking spices. Dry and youthful on the palate, with a core of fruit and savoury spice. Firm tannins and acidity; there's no mistaking the oak, even at 15% new; spice and sweetness alongside the savoury whole bunch layer adds complexity. Medium weight and lengthy finish. Lots of energy, this wine still needs some cellar time to settle. Decant for service; best drinking from late 2020 through 2024. POINTS: 93

Contact: www.temata.co.nz RRP $30.00

26 Lake Chalice The Falcon

Pinot Noir 2018 Marlborough

Lots of inviting toasty oak with aromas of cinnamon and cedar then strawberry and red cherry, some red apple skin and sweet rose. Fruity on the palate, with dusty tannins and acidity giving a lovely structure against a backdrop of light red fruit flavours. Nice dry finish, balanced and well made. Drink now and through 2026. POINTS: 92

Contact: www.lakechalice.com RRP $18.99

Pinot Noir 2016 Marlborough

POINTS: 90

Contact: www.lakechalice.com RRP $22.99

28 Toi Toi Reserve Pinot Noir

2014 Central Otago Classic bouquet of an Otago Pinot Noir, with dark cherry and undergrowth, dried raspberry and toasty wood spices. Dry with firm textures of acidity and youthful tannins offset by red fruit flavours and brown spices of wood and toasted wood flavours. Well-made, still youthful and coming together - drink from late 2019 through 2026.

POINTS: 90

Contact: www.toitoiwines.co.nz RRP $39.99

29 Crafters Union Pinot Noir

2018 Central Otago

Varietal & fruity bouquet with aromas of red cherry and raspberry, whispers of red rose and dried herb. Dry on the palate with flavours of red apple and cherry, tart raspberry and plum. Fine easy tannins, very little oak and a crisp dry finish. Drinking well now and through 2022. Best enjoyed with food through 2020.

POINTS: 87

Contact: www.craftersunionwines.com RRP $21.99

30 Selaks The Taste Collection

Velvety Pinot Noir 2018 Marlborough Fruity, fresh, ripe and forward with aromas of red berry fruits especially cherry and strawberry, some cranberry and red plum moments. A gentle Pinosity. Crisp, tart and dry on the palate, abundant acidity and fine easy tannins adding texture and a vibrant palate feel. Fruit flavours are constant and mirror the nose. Lighter weight example. Drink now and through 2021.

POINTS: 86

Contact: www.selaks.co.nz RRP $21.99

WORLD OF WINE â&#x20AC;&#x201C; WINTER 2019 63

MIGHTY REDS

Vidal Soler Syrah

1 2017 Gimblett Gravels

Drama

Queens

NEW ZEALAND WINEMAKERS ARE PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES WHEN IT COMES TO WORLD-CLASS RED WINES, WITH SOME BOLD, INTENSE FLAVOURS THAT WILL MAKE LOVERS OF WEIGHTIER WINES REJOICE

ed wine drinkers can be very particular about the variety and style they prefer. When it comes to diversity and quality, our NZ red wines are pretty impressive. Pinot Noir is a good example. It has a wonderful way of reflecting the site where it is grown or a thread of flavour that the producer likes to harness. The use of whole-bunch (as opposed to de-stemmed) fruit as a percentage of the finished wine is quite common. So too is the use of oak and how long the wine matures for in barrel impacts heavily on the final taste. Less preservative at bottling, un-fined and unfiltered are two more influences of texture and taste. All these ideas speak to the style, flavour and expression that a producer is trying to convey. Two example Pinots Noir that will allow your adventurous side to take charge are Grasshopper Rock and Air New Zealand Fine Wine Lowburn Ferry.

64 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

Syrah is the jewel in the vinous crown of New Zealand. The variety has been part of our wine scene for some time, but as lived somewhat in the shadow of Pinot Noir and Cabernet. Not any more. Northland, Waiheke Island, Gisborne, Hawke's Bay, Wairarapa and Marlborough all have excellent examples to consider. The aroma and taste profile of Syrah is somewhat particular though with blackcurrant and spices, raspberry and aged meats, pepper, violets, bold tannins and a back bone of acidity. An excellent food wine for sure. Two must-try examples include Villa Maria’s Reserve and Te Mata Estate Bullnose. Ideally Merlot should have an aroma and flavour package of violet or rose and dark plums, a fleshy core, suggestions of blue fruit and a natural earthy quality. Merlot tannins are typically rounder and plush. W

Hawke’s Bay A bouquet filled with aromas of violets, black currants, raspberry, peppery sweet meats, smoky oak and layers of garrigue, dry stone and baking spices. Very expressive on the palate with flavours of oak and wood smoke, dark raspberry and black currant, loads of pepper and sweet black olive. Weighty yet fine, a strong backbone of acidity and firm youthful tannins, a core of fruit and ripeness with a long dry finish. This wine is delicious. Decant for service now and through 2022. Excellent drinking from 2022 through 2030 if stored well. POINTS: 98

Contact: www.vidal.co.nz RRP $34.99

Vidal Legacy Syrah

2 2016 Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay

Fantastic bouquet of Syrah with softly spoken white pepper, baked raspberry, crushed black cherry, rose and a quiet yet powerful charm. No mistaking the complexity with a beguiling seductive core. Velvet & silk tannins, a backbone of acidity, vanilla, clove and a soft filé powder note. Long and complex finish. Drink now and through 2028. POINTS: 96

Contact: www.vidal.co.nz RRP $79.99 More next page>>

TASTING NOTES MIGHTY REDS

Pegasus Bay Maestro

3 Merlot, Cabernet, Malbec 2015 North Canterbury Complex bouquet of dark red fruits led by Doris plum, blackberry and dark spiced chocolate. Toasty wood spices of clove and baked vanilla, a steely haunt adds complexity and depth. Dry with a contrasting core of red berry fruits, chocolate and wood spice. Firm to fine tannins and warming alcohol. Medium+ acidity and dark fruited core. Coming into balance slowly. Lengthy fine finish. Drink from late 2019 and through 2029. POINTS: 95

Contact: www.pegasusbay.com RRP $50.00

Samuel’s Collection

6 Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2016 South Australia

The Landing Syrah 2015

4 Bay of Islands

Dark forest berries, toasty oak with clove and vanilla scents, baked field mushrooms, black cherry, ageing meats and a clay gravel earth core. Dry, luscious and fruity with flavours of blueberry, pepper, blackcurrant and raspberry. Plenty of acidity with ripe, firm youthful tannins, great structure and length. The complexity builds as the wine opens up in the glass. A lovely wine, quite masculine with broad shoulders, weight and power. Drink now and through 2026. POINTS: 95

Contact: www.thelandingnz.com RRP $39.99

Samuel’s Collection

7 Shiraz Cabernet

Dark cherry, peppery raspberry, milk chocolate and chilli-spice moments, some baking spices and overall generous and welcoming bouquet. Dry, fruity, mild spices and generous palate with fine tannins and medium acidity, flavours of fresh red berry fruits, a hint of chocolate and liquorice with a dry, balanced and fairly lengthy finish. Well made, moderate complexity; drink now and through 2021.

Sauvignon 2017 South Australia Fleshy, ripe, spicy and packed fruit aromas of black cherry and blackberry, dark plum then black pepper and vanilla, violet and bell pepper. Dry, tense, fruity and spicy on the palate, with fruit and vegetal flavours that mirror the nose, firm youthfullytextured tannins and medium+ acidity. This wine will please many who like this style. Balanced , well made and ready. Drink now and through 2022.

Contact: www.yalumbaestate.com RRP $25.95

POINTS: 92

POINTS: 90

Smith & Sheth CRU

5 Heretaunga Syrah 2017 Hawke’s Bay

Varietal and immediately enticing bouquet of sweet oak and pepper spice, toasty wood and dark berries with raspberry and black currant. Dry, toasty, fruity and spicy on the palate with dusty wood tannins, plenty of acidity, medium+ weight and intensity. The finish is finer with dark cherry and some floral moments. Youthful overall though drinkable today and through 2026. POINTS: 93

Contact: www.smithandsheth.com RRP $40.00

Selaks The Taste

8 Collection Silky Smooth Merlot 2018 Hawke's Bay Aromas of Doris plums and dark berries, clove and cinnamon baking spices then toasty oak wood suggestions. Fruity and dry on the palate with a nice concentration of flavour from both fruit and wood attributes. Fine tannins, easy acidity, balanced even finish. A nice wine for many red wine drinkers to enjoy. Best from today and through 2021. POINTS: 90

Contact: www.selaks.co.nz RRP $21.99

WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019 65

Ooh la la! A CLASSIC NEW ZEALAND CABERNET SAUVIGNON TAKES ITS ROOTS FROM THE HISTORIC FRENCH REGION OF BORDEAUX

ed wines can be made as single variety expressions or as a blend of more than one variety. Merlot for example, or Cabernet Sauvignon on their own make lovely wines and can age well blended together; they are great mates. The classic wines of Bordeaux in France are accepted benchmarks, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot-led blends of the ‘Left bank’ (geographically, the villages on the left hand side of the Gironde River) or the Merlot Cabernet Franc wines of the ‘Right bank’ (the right bank of the same river). These combinations have been emulated around the world, as it has been right here in New Zealand. Cabernet Sauvignon provides the power and intensity, and the wine’s backbone, with its bold tannins and acidity then flavours of blackberry and dark plum, baked bell pepper and tobacco. Cabernet Franc has a similar aroma, flavour and structure attributes plus violet, olive, dried herb and dark red berry as well. Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc with Merlot combined make classy, well-structured wine with inherent attributes for ageing. It’s also a great choice for food pairing, working well with dishes like medium-rare eye fillet or wild boar casserole to cheese or shepherd’s pie – or simply with a seven-times award-winning mince and cheese pie like Tauranga-based Patrick Lam’s! W

66 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

TASTING NOTES CABERNET SAUVIGNON

Vidal Legacy Gimblett

1 Gravels Cabernet

Sauvignon Merlot 2016 Hawke's Bay

Youthful, fruity and alluring bouquet with an intriguing textured complexity. A core of red and dark berry fruit flavours layered between finely-tuned flavours of oak, firm chalky tannins and abundant acidity. There is a dry-stone mineral layer alongside toasty wood spices, adding further complexity. A very appealing wine that will age well into the late 2020s. A great food wine option with decanting is highly recommended. POINTS: 96

Contact: www.vidal.co.nz RRP $69.99

Vidal Soler Gimblett

2 Gravels Cabernet

Sauvignon 2017 Hawke's Bay A bouquet that is slow to reveal its story. Aromas emerge of blackened blackberry, dark plum and fresh cigar tobacco. Marmite and meat, a sweet toasted wood scent accentuated with aromas of clove and vanilla, then dried herb and baked bell-pepper. A complexity unfurls after many minutes in glass. Youthful, tense, firm and dry with flavours reflective of the nose. Abundant fruit and wood tannins with plenty of acidity. Complex, lengthy finish. A wine that should age and harmonise in your cellar over the coming 3-5 years. Ideal drinking 2024 through 2034.

Franc, Tempranillo Cantera 2016 Hawke's Bay

Contact: www.vidal.co.nz RRP $34.99

Contact: www.smithandsheth.com RRP $60.00

POINTS: 96

Yalumba The Signature

4 Cabernet Sauvignon

Yalumba The Cigar

5 Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

Shiraz 2014 South Australia Dark, rich and broody bouquet with distinctive aromas of dark berries and violets layered between stylish oak scents of vanilla, pepper and clove, then toasted wood and dark chocolate. Dry, fruity and plump with flavours of dark berry fruit and wood, firm moderate tannins and acidity offering contrast, texture and complexity. Well made, totally enjoyable and excellent food wine. Drink now and through 2024.

South Australia A fine wine bouquet with black and blue berry fruits, plum and blackberry, some blackcurrant and olive. Just a hint of mint, licorice and exotic spice. No mistaking the tobacco and cigar layer with its use of oak and tannin integration. There's also no mistaking the use of oak and dark wood spices of vanilla and clove. With fine to moderate tannins in abundance and balanced acid line this wine is very nice indeed. Drink now and through 2025.

Contact: www.yalumba.com RRP $65.00

Contact: www.yalumba.com RRP $29.99

POINTS: 94

Smith & Sheth CRU

3 Cabernets Sauvignon &

POINTS: 94

This blended red wine from Hawke’s Bay fruit is led by Cabernet Sauvignon, Franc and Tempranillo. The nose shows off aromas of power and substance with a youthful core of dark berries, spices, tobacco and smoky wood. On the palate, even more youthful with bold tannins and acidity, plenty of oak, spice, raspberry, dark berries, olive and violets. All the elements are there for a wine to age and integrate over the next few years. Lengthy dry finish, raw energy and muscle. Decant for service before 2022 with best drinking from 2022 through 2030. POINTS: 94

Crafters Union Cabernet

6 Sauvignon 2017

Coonawarra Australia Classic varietal bouquet with aromas of blackberry and tobacco, dark plum and baked bell-pepper, brown spices and smoky boxwood. Dry on the palate with medium+ weight, medium acidity and abundant yet fine tannins. Balanced and well made, drink now and through 2022. POINTS: 90

Contact: www.craftersunionwines. com RRP $24.99

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SWEETS

Sweet stuff

Seifried Winemakers

1 Collection Sweet Agnes Riesling 2016 Nelson

A captivating luscious, ripe and and highly scented bouquet. Aromas and flavours of honeysuckle, sweet citrus, a core of apple, apricot and honey. Sweet, creamy texture with contrasting acid line and very long finish. A fantastic example of NZ Riesling at its very best! POINTS: 95

Contact: www.seifried.co.nz RRP $38.00

Askerne Late Harvest

2 Gewürztraminer 2017 Hawke’s Bay

Honey, spices, baked apple tart, clove and brown sugar. Very sweet, very fruity, loaded with flavours of honey and apricot, baked apple tart and clove. Full-bodied and rich and creamy texture. Long finish, delicious. Drink now. POINTS: 94

Contact: www.askernewines.co.nz RRP $22.90

Loveblock Sweet Moscato

3 2014 Marlborough

IF A WINE TASTES DRY, CAN IT STILL BE SWEET? LATE HARVEST GRAPES CAN OFFER A TEASE IN TASTE AS WELL AS A BEAUTIFUL SAVOURY FOOD MATCH

ur palate can detect residual sugar in wine from around 3 grams per litre & upwards. This measure does not make a wine sweet - in fact it will still be dry and the sweetness often barely noticeable until about 9 grams. It’s all about balance, and what role acidity and alcohol play alongside sugar. A dry wine is considered ‘dry’ if the wine causes the palate to dry out after swallowing. The structure of wine and how acidity plays a role in balance can often lead us into thinking a wine is dry when in fact it is not. Some German wines are adept at teasing the palate in this way. New Zealand sweet wine can do the same. Sweet wine is generally made from ‘late harvest’ grapes – those deliberately left out long after the official harvest time in order for extra sunshine

to increase their sugar levels. They may also have been infected with botrytis cinerea – noble rot – for a wonderful honey, sweet apricot effect. There are some red varieties used, but the wines are generally white. The threshold for what defines a sweet wine is debatable - suffice to say that if you taste a wine and describe it as sweet, it is. However, one person’s measure or scale of sweetness will be different from the next. Strangely, many people view sweet wine as something to be kept for cheese or dessert. It's actually an excellent partner for food with a little kick of spice, paté and even oily fish like salmon. Dessert wines are a category of sweet wine. They should not to be confused with a wine that is simply fruity. Some sweet wines can be both fruity and sweet. W

Fragrant, floral, fruity and very appealing bouquet. Blossoms, spun sugar, citrus and orange peel aromas. Sweet as it hits the palate, but immediately contrasted by acidity, texture and flavour. Flavours from the nose and palate persist with some warmth and freshness adding to the length and finish. Drink now and through 2024. POINTS: 91

Contact: www.loveblockwine.com RRP $29.99

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CAM'S BACK PAGE

Behind the

Velvet Curtain

EVERY WINE LOVER HAS A SPECIAL BOTTLE THEY'LL BRING TO A DINNER PARTY... JUST AS LONG AS THEY DON'T HAVE TO SHARE IT

ou’ve been invited to a party – great! You ask the host what you can contribute; “Oh, just bring a bottle,” is the breezy response. But what is the ‘right’ wine in this scenario? – A robust red, delicate white, some bubbly, a magnum, a bottle from your cellar… or perhaps you just pick up something from the liquor shop on the way? Whatever your approach, please don’t buy cheap and cheerful, especially if you like wine - and the host. Go for something interesting and different; a wine you’ve been waiting to try. ‘Classic’ New Zealand wine is always a good option. Choose varieties or brands that are well known, but not bottom shelf. I particularly like Millton Chardonnay, Palliser Estate Riesling, Mahi Sauvignon Blanc and Misha’s Cantata Pinot Noir. These wines are tasty and overdeliver for the price. If you really can’t decide then a full-bodied, rich and complex sparkling wine is always fantastic; Air New Zealand fine wines Quartz Reef and No.1 Family Estate are great examples. If that doesn’t sound like you, opt for a magnum of Rosé – not expensive, and it stands out. Selecting a nice wine to share at a party can be a real challenge. Firstly – are you supposed to share? I’ve seen strangers use ‘my wine’ to fill

70 WORLD OF WINE – WINTER 2019

their glass near the top, take a slug and pretend all is cool. If you’re bringing a bottle to a shared occasion, I think you can expect other guests to enjoy a glass. If the idea of sharing your beautiful wine doesn’t appeal, however, and you’re getting a taxi home, consider presenting the host with two bottles. There’s more of your wine to go around, and you’re less likely to resent your fellow winedrinker for enjoying your delicious drop. The other option: bring two bottles, and pop one behind the plush velvet curtain in the living room when no-one is looking! Now you know you can enjoy your lovely wine, away from people who don’t appreciate wine like you do. However, if you do decide to use the ‘velvet curtain’ method, prepare for disappointment. I gave up on velvet curtain wine years ago, because despite the thrill of secrecy, hidden wine just never tastes quite the way I expect. Why? Guilt. Hiding wine at parties just isn’t kosha. Parties are a time for connecting and socialising, not subterfuge – where’s the fun in hurriedly downing your wine like a sordid secret? If you really want to savour a glass of that special wine, open it early, and pour a glass for the host or your mates first. After all, a really good wine tastes best when it’s shared. W

Vidal Legacy Hawkes Bay Chardonnay 2018

“Seductive, enticing, complex and glamorous...” 96 Points - Cameron Douglas MS