2006 Fall

In Memoriam

Madeleine White

Medical

Technologies

Be FDA Compliant Laser expert Donald Osendowski tells you how

1947-2006

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News Makers

Insurance Dumps on Woman

The Virtual Energizer

The shameful insurance injustice for women with hair loss

Get recharged with Lance Centofanti

pg. 14

pg. 8

The National Hair Journal

VOLUME 10 NO. 39 THE PROFESSIONAL PUBLICATION

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HAIR REPLACEMENT & RESTORATION

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Demographics Redefine Hair Market Murrieta, CA. 09/06 - Baby boomers refuse to grow old. That’s hardly news to researchers who follow the psychographics of an aging population. But what is surprising is the effect this is having on the hair marketplace. Hair replacement, which used to be a quiet backwater with little connection to the cosmetic and personal enhancement markets, is being propelled onto a larger stage. Suddenly, it finds itself part of a burgeoning anti-aging landscape that includes products like Color Camo from Redken Corp., which claims, “It’ll seem like you slowly turned back time,” and Just for Men, whose “Rejuvenator” products contain “X-Gray Science” to target gray hair. Then there’s, “Stop Lines/Anti-Lines Moisturizer” from L’Oreal, Paris. Their print advertising warns boomers, “You think lines add character. She thinks lines add years.” As a

result of campaigns like this, anti-aging formulas now accounts for one-third of the $59 million men spend each year on skin care.

Depending on your marketing perspective, this anti-aging crusade is either a huge opportunity or a major risk as packaged goods companies begin to encircle men and women of a certain age. However, while it may be easy to conclude that hair replacement salons will be outgunned by the big boys, shrewd marketers will see the benefit of actually aligning themselves with the anti-aging movement and positioning hair replacement alongside gray hair removal and anti-wrinkle treatments. In this way, they will benefit from the halo created by their publicity and advertising. Why not be part of the antiaging snowball as it gathers speed and critical mass on its way down the mountain?

Pennsylvania Set to Become 10th State to Offer Hairbraiding Licensure

Goodbye Madeleine

Harrisburg, 09/06 – The Pennsylvania Legislature is expected to approve a bill introduced by Senator Edwin Erickson that will establish a professional license for natural hairstyling and braiding. Lisa Y. Hopkins, an educator and advocate for Natural Hairstyling told local legislators that that Hairbraiding and Natural Hair styling dates back to 2630-2540 BC and can be traced back to the threshold of civilization from the first dynasty founded by Pharaoh Manes near the tip of the Nile in Egypt, way before cosmetology was even thought of. When the bill becomes official

Best Brains Vie for Beauty Title

Paris, 06/06 - L’Oreal leads the world in beauty marketing. The company is the cosmetics industry’s largest investor in research and in 1993, it launched L’Oreal Brandstorm, an innovative marketing competition that challenges students to take on the role of a marketing brand manager and revamp an existing international L’Oreal brand.

Brandstormers receive a brief about the market, the brand, and the distribution channels. They learn marketing techniques from L’Oreal brand managers, and work closely with a communications agency to develop innovative packaging for their new product. Jean-Paul Agon, CEO of L’Oreal comments, “The responsibility of inventing the future of beauty lies in the hands and minds of the young, modern-living marketers that are part of the L’Oreal family today.

L’Oreal Brandstorm is one way of ensuring that we continue to feed our teams with some of the world’s smartest, diverse and most creatively talented minds.”

on September 7, Hair Weave Artistes, Locticians, and Hairbraiders can officially be licensed in the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania. There are nine states, New York, Ohio, Florida, Michigan, Virginia, South Carolina, Louisiana, Texas and Tennessee that offer a natural hairstyling styling and braiding license. While there are nine states, Washington, Arizona, Connecticut, California, Maryland, Minnesota, Mississippi, and North Carolina that are exempt from cosmetology laws to freely practice the art of hair braiding, locking and weaving.

With P&G and L’Oreal eyeing the thinning hair market, isn’t it time the hair-management industry started to take its own marketing seriously?

L’Oreal was ranked as the 17th most respected company in the world in the 2005Financial Times/Pricewaterhouse Coopers survey of CEOs and corporate stakeholders.

Character Determined in Early Years?

Everything starts earlier these days. Seems the world just keeps spinning faster. And kids just can’t get left behind. Visit www.babytoupee.com to learn how to help your toddler deal with the agony of being born with little or no hair. Babies can choose from the Donald combover, the Bob dreadlocks and much, much more.

Madeleine White passed away quietly after an extended illness on June 25th.

Madeleine was an active member of our industry for many years and is especially admired for her contributions to the women’s hair loss market. In spite of setbacks in her own health, Madeleine was always reaching out to help others. She served on the American Hair Loss Council, was an active member for the American Cancer Society and started, ‘Year of the Child,’ one of first programs to benefit children.

During her career, Madeleine owned and operated her own retail salon before partnering with Okyo Sthair at New Concepts Hairgoods.

Madeleine’s most recent function was Vice President of New Image Laboratories, a position she proudly held until ill-health forced her to retire.

Madeleine has many friends and admirers and we invite them to send in pictures, anecdotes and remembrances so we can celebrate Madeleine’s life in the year-end edition of The National Hair Journal.

Korvue for Dummies Coming to a Bookshelf Near You The “Dummies” series of instructional books for “the rest of us” will be publishing a “Korvue for Dummies” edition shortly.

It is designed to explain how to set up and use this salon management application to manage client relationships, streamline operating procedures and

SKIN HEALTH FALL 2006

UK Mouseketeers Spring Hairloss Trap Could Super Furry Animals Provide Clues For Baldness?

Manchester, UK, 09/06 - British scientists may have discovered have discovered a protein “code” that instructs cells to sprout hair. The University of Manchester team has laid bare the molecular

processes that determine which embryonic skin cells will form into hair follicles and determine the body’s hair pattern. Their findings will be of interest to scientists looking at male-pattern baldness but have more direct implications for people who suffer from ectodermal dysplasia - a range of conditions where skin cells fail to develop into other tissue, including hair follicles.

“During human development, skin cells have the ability to turn into other types of cells to form hair follicles, sweat glands, teeth and nails,” said Dr Denis Headon, who led the research. “Which cells are transformed into hair follicles is determined by three proteins that are produced by our genes.

“Our research has identified how one of these proteins working outside of the cell interacts at a molecular level to determine an individual’s hair pattern as the embryonic skin spatially organizes itself.”

The team found that cells given the genetic command to become hair follicles will send out signals to neighboring cells to prevent them from doing likewise, so producing a specific hair pattern.

They also demonstrated that by hyperactivating the ‘hair protein’ in embryonic mice, young mice with considerably more fur than normal were produced. “We were able to change the number of hair follicles in the embryonic mice while they were developing in the womb,” said Dr Headon, who is based in the University’s Faculty of Life Sciences. “The research - while not directly linked to male-pattern baldness - should be of interest to pharmaceutical companies working in this field as understanding the molecular processes at work during follicle development could provide clues as to why follicles shrink and hair growth diminishes in certain men as they get older.”

become more profitable. Korvue has a loyal customer base of larger salon and clinic owners, but smaller, family-owned businesses have always hesitated to make the move from paper records to computerized client operations.

Korvue for Dummies should change all that and make it easy for everyone to master this valuable management tool.

This year, two teams shared first prize: a talented group from Korea University and a French team from L’Institut d’Etudes Politiques de Paris. Students from 32 countries participated in this hotly contested competition.

The Place Where Things Begin. A Decade of Information.

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Who’s Right? We receive a lot of conflicting information in our editorial offices, but never has it seemed to be as much in evidence as these last few months. I recently attended a meeting of hair replacement salon owners who, to a person, told me business was declining and they could no longer afford the high cost of generating new leads. They complained, young people today were less attracted to hair replacement and preferred alternate hair loss solutions.

In short, they were despondent and ready to lay down their shears. A few days later, I was on the telephone with hairloss educator, Jimmy (the General) Toscano, discussing the article he was preparing for this edition. I asked him how things were in Pittsburgh. Jimmy told me that he was adding three to five new clients a week and that he had been obliged to expand his premises to accommodate them!

Was it because he had launched a new advertising campaign and was simply buying new business? Absolutely not; he doesn’t advertise at all. Did he have some magic bullet? No; if anything, Jimmy was “breaking all the rules” by having men and women share the same waiting room, and, horror!, having regu-lar haircut and styling clients share the same space as hair replacement cus-tomers! So much for the rules!

What’s more, Toscano’s newest clients were young, confident and motivated. They were enthusiastic about the styles that could be created with the newest hair systems. Note that I said “styles,” not products. They liked the natural hair-lines, light density and styling flexibili-ty. Younger clients don’t care about the product or the technology; they want to know how they will look and what it will do for them.

Conventional wisdom, and years of experience tell us that Jimmy Toscano’s formula should not be working. But it is. Is this a one-man, one-salon, aberration, or is something else going on here?

Could it be that customers have stopped seeing hair loss as a sign of “incompleteness,” and now view the solution as something positive you do for yourself, like working out? If this is the case, perhaps it’s time to take hair loss out of the closet and repackage hair systems as one more good thing that you do for your self - like going to the gym, having an annu-al checkup, protecting your skin against sun damage and eating healthily!

How about branding hair systems with attrac-tive names? How does “Armani-hair” grab you?

Women and Lasers -The New Growth Segments - As you turn the pages of any recent Hair Journal, you cannot help but be struck by the all the activity in the women’s hair loss and the laser marketplace. Both segments are showing remarkable dynamism. However they need careful stewardship. As Marsha Scott and Elline Surianello point out in their articles, the women’s market requires sensitivity, refined skills and lots of special training. We will be focusing more on the women’s market in future issues. Meanwhile, I invite you to join us in lobbying the medical insurance industry to change their archaic and discriminatory reimbursement rules.

The laser therapy market needs careful management to stay on the right side of the FDA so we invited laser distributor Don Osendowski to share his extensive experience.

His article, “Staying Compliant” is impor-

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tant reading.If you don't know what it means to be a “cosmetic device,” you owe it to your staff to pass this article around.

Compliance however, is only one of two key issues in the laser marketplace today; the other is the respect of intellectual property laws. Next week I meet with the directors of Lexington International, manufacturers of the HairMax LaserComb and owners of the most stringent patents in the laser industry. In our December issue, we plan to publish an “advisory” note letting readers know what’s protected, what’s offlimits and how to stay out of trouble. The National Hair Society has established a Laser Advisory Board with some of the nation’s top doctors, researchers and technology experts. Members will receive updates and advice in their regular monthly bulletins.

ISHRS Scientific Conference - In October, we will be taking a team to this medical conference to learn about new hair loss research, surgical techniques and hair regrowth medications. Look for a full report in the December issue and don’t forget to go to hair loss www.hairlossnewsmakers.com where you will be able to listen to interviews with guest speakers, as well as our famous roundtable discus-sions. There will be special panels dis-cussing hair multiplication, laser thera-py, among other topics. The big drug companies will be there as well as... Procter & Gamble. Don’t say we didn’t warn you!

Say Hello to Heather - In previous issues, I have introduced Hair Society director, Kristie Handzlik, Radio Producer, Mike Ferreri and Consumer Division director, Penny Moss. Today, I would like to introduce Heather Simon who has joined us as the Journal’s Customer Service Manager. She has the daunting task of keeping your mailing information and subscriptions up to date. Over the next few months we hope to automate this process, but in the interim, if she calls you, please find two minutes to talk with her. It’s a huge effort to stay current, so please help us out.

10th Anniversary! - It’s been 10 years already! At the end of this year, The National Hair Journal will have been bringing you the news for over 10 years.

We hope this information has helped you discover new products and the manufacturers behind them.

We have aggressively promoted crossmarketing and trying to encourage relationships between the medical and non-medical communities and between the pharma-ceutical and cosmetic communities. Today, we see more and more full-serv-ice hair-management centers as the industry continues to converge. It was only a few years ago that Hair Club was challenging Propecia. How far we have come!

But there are still clinics that talk about the “wig people,” cosmetolo-gists who fearfully talk about “going under the knife” and lots of people who wouldn’t take Propecia on their honeymoon. So there’s still work to be done.

We hope you’ll be part of it.

Editor in Chief Christopher L. Webb

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4 The National Hair Journal Fall 2005

TAKE IT FROM VITO

Vito Mazza is the founder and owner of Vito Mazza Salon, Spa & Hair Restoration of Woodbridge, NJ. He started his career at the age of twelve, though he did not know it at the time, and today runs a trend-setting facility with a staff of seventy. By listening to his clients, Vito identified new needs and opportunities and expanded from his hairstyling roots to a full-service imageenhancement center offering medical and non-medical hair loss solutions, laser light therapy and even day-spa treatments. In this interview he shares his formula for success and encourages readers to follow the market and expand their service offerings.

them if they would just add back some hair, it would make them look younger and feel better. I told them that everybody around them would like the way they looked; their wife, daughter; all of their family and friends. And that’s exactly what happened. It made me feel good to recommend something that could change their lives.

NHJ: So you began to add hair addition services to your basic hair styling work.

VM: Right. The rewards were very satisfying. When clients are happy, then of course I’m happy and so is everyone in the salon.

So that is basically how I got started. I continued with the other aspects of the business, cutting, styling, women’s hair coloring, perming, all of those things, but hair restoration is where I put more and more of my efforts. I enjoyed designing and creating hair systems for both men and women.

Even today, that’s basically what I’m still doing.

NHJ: In those early years, there weren’t

NHJ: In 2003, 2004 and 2005, the Vito Mazza Salon was ranked as one of 200 fastest growing hair salons in America by Salon Today magazine. What’s the secret of your success?

VM: Hard work! Hard work that’s fun.

You’ve got to love what you do. You can never be satisfied with yesteryear’s achievements or awards. Everyday is a new day and you must evolve with your clients. As their needs change, you must challenge the old way of doing business and be prepared to make fundamental changes. It’s not easy.

NHJ: You’ve had a lot of time to decide if you love what you do because you got into this field at a very early age didn’t you?

any big distributors to turn to for marketing support; in fact there weren’t many distributors at all. Where did you go for technical and promotional help?

VM: You’re right; there weren’t too many people around then. There were some places that manufactured hair replacement products, but they didn’t have any advertising

VM: Yes, I did. I actually started when I was only 12 years old.

NHJ: I remember you telling me that your father was instrumental in getting you into the business…

VM: Yes, he wanted to keep me busy after school and not hang around the playground and get in trouble. So he sent me to my cousin’s barbershop. I would go there everyday after school and sweep the floors, wash the windows, clean the barber pole and make soap for the soap machine.

NHJ: So you had a real old-fashioned apprenticeship?

VM: That’s the one.

NHJ: They don’t train like that anymore, do they?

VM: Unfortunately they don’t. Today everything is a lot quicker; everybody wants rewards immediately. There’s a lot to be said for the old time apprenticeship because you put a lot of time in and you learned your skills from the ground up.

NHJ: As you built your own skills Vito, there must have been things you enjoyed in particular. What was most rewarding for you; color, cutting, styling?

VM: When I first started it was the styling.

But then I came across more and more clients who were thinning and I would tell

material. No one really advertised much in those days. I had to experiment with new techniques. I learned by trial and error. I would advertise in newspapers, yellow pages and by going to places like the Lions Clubs and various men’s clubs. Different organizations would invite me in when they met each month. They liked to introduce someone new at their gatherings, so I would go make the rounds and show them hair replacements.

NHJ: In those years hair replacement was a growing field and a lot of people did very well, but many of the early pioneers seem to have stagnated. They failed to embrace change and move with the market. But you were different; you expanded into surgical hair restoration, created a day spa and today you even offer skin care. What gave you the vision to expand your business where others failed?

VM: Since I started, I’ve always listened to my clients. I made a note of what they wanted… and then I would act on it. If I didn’t meet his or her needs, someone else would have. Like I said earlier, things are happening faster today. You’ve got to anticipate your clients’ needs and even feed them new ideas. I get bored doing the same thing all the time and so do they.

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NHJ: For every expanding Vito Mazza Salon, there are 50 hair replacement businesses that are not growing. Where do they go wrong… and what do you do right?

VM: I used to do platform work and I would travel around the country and see a lot of individuals who are into the business, but don’t really love the business. They’re into the business because it’s a job or a “homemade” venture. But it wouldn’t matter to them if it was an ice-cream store or a hair replacement store. It isn’t a passion! That’s what makes the difference.

NHJ: So that readers of The National Hair Journal can benefit from your experience, I’m going to ask you a series of quick questions. The first one concerns new technologies. How do you feel about low level laser light therapy?

VM: I believe that laser light hair therapy has a very bright future. We started laser hair therapy over a year ago and have made over 300% ROI so far. We are helping many men and women stop their hair loss and achieve fuller, stronger-looking hair. We are currently using a Laser Tek 9000 Flat Panel Laser. Our experience has been very satisfactory.

NHJ: What about your clients?

VM: We have a broad range of male and female clients who come to our studio on a regular basis for laser hair therapy sessions.

NHJ: What are your clients saying?

VM: We hear things like, “People are asking me what I am doing with my hair.” They are really excited about the way their hair looks.

Here are a couple of before and after photos on our clients. Look at the change in color and texture.

NHJ: What about skin care? Is this a logical extension of hair care?

VM: 10 years ago I added a full day-spa onto our facility. By offering these facilities, we encourage clients to come in for skin care, massages, manicures, pedicures and so forth.

Many of them later choose to do something about their hair.

NHJ: How many hair system clients take advantage of the surgical options? For example, do any of your clients use surgery to restore their front hairline while wearing a system behind it?

VM: We did in the past, but since the improvements in non-surgical replacement, we don’t see those requests as much anymore. We can now perform a non-surgical replacement and it can look just as good if not better than the hair transplant.

NHJ: If a client said, “I don’t care what the technology is, I just want my hair back”, what would you recommend first? Hair systems or medical restoration?

VM: I would say that non-surgical is still number one.

NHJ: Is that because clients are scared of the surgical procedure or is it the cost?

VM: It’s a combination of both.

NHJ: What advice would you give to somebody who wants to take advantage of the new technologies but doesn’t know which ones to look at first?

VM: If they do not have a laser in their facility, they should seriously consider it. Laser Hair Therapy will create new business, build new client relationships and create an upgrade platform from which a client could go into a non-surgical or surgical procedure.

If we did not achieve these results ourselves, we would not have believed it. Truly remarkable!

NHJ: You talked earlier about the importance of maintaining a fashion and beauty image. How important is “fashion” to your clientele?

VM: We are part of the beauty industry. We are in a look-good, feel-good type of business. That’s what we do. Fashion is fundamental to that. The more options you offer a client, the less likely they are to look for that service somewhere else. Every part of our facility, the day spa, the hair restoration division and the salon, each one has its own identity.

NHJ: How did you start the day spa? Did you build a whole new facility, or did you ease into it step by step?

VM: We started with a couple of rooms where we did facials, and then I realized that if you want to be serious about something, you need to do it the right way. It’s not a part time thing or a side thing. So we made a big commitment and purchased another building and restored it. That’s where we put in the spa.

NHJ: You’ve been in the industry for 40 years and now have a staff of 70 professionals. What are the things that make you proud today?

VM: I’m proud of the way that we’ve been able to grow one brick at a time. Over the years, I’ve been able to surround myself with quality people. When I see people come into our facility by the hundreds I know we’re doing something right.

NHJ: We can summarize this interview in two words; passion and people.

VM: That’s what it’s all about. If you’ve got those, you’ve got a successful business.

NHJ: Does laser therapy take business from the other services that you offer?

VM: No, just the opposite. We provide a full range of hair-replacement services for men and women and the laser fills the gap for individuals who aren’t yet ready for surgery as well as those who want to continue wearing a hair system while benefiting from laser therapy. These new clients are now getting their hair cut and styled in our salon and are experiencing the broad range of spa services that we offer.

NHJ: How did you learn about light therapy?

VM: We did our homework. Having been in the business for many years, we don’t jump into things; you have to show me. So I talked to many different studios and explored what worked for them before putting together a nice package for our clients NHJ: I think you are now getting ready to share that experience through a series of training workshops.

VM: We are doing much more that that. We have recently launched the Laser Hair Therapy Consulting Group. We have developed a “Turn-Key” solution for growth oriented business owners who want to incorporate Laser Hair Therapy into their business model.

NHJ: What about medical hair restoration?

Do your clients want to go to a facility that gives them a range of choices?

VM: We have found that everyone has different needs. That’s the reason we try to offer alternatives. For example, we offer surgical options for individuals who are good transplant candidates. For many of them, this is the only solution they will consider. They do not want anything else. When an individual walks into our facility we want to be able to help them whatever their preference and no matter how great or little their hair loss.

Vito Mazza is the founder of Vito Mazza Salon, Spa & Hair Restoration of Woodbridge, NJ. For more information on The Laser Hair Therapy Consulting Group you can contact Vito c/o The National Hair Society at 951-541-2809 ext.2, or via Society director, Kristie Handzlik at kristieh@nationalhairjournal.com. You can also contact Vito direct at vito@llltsolutions.com or call (877) 455-9191. www.llltsolutions.com

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What Sy Taught Us About Advertising

Steven DiManni

By Steven DiManni

I noticed an article in the last issue of NHJ about Sy Sperling. It was a short article appearing right underneath my regular editorial. In it, Sy announced that he was about to release an internet article entitled “Ten Reasons That Infomercials Fail.”

Within this article, Sy would tell readers how to make their advertising successful.

You have to give Sy a lot of credit. This was a man who put his money where his mouth was when he owned Hair Club. He took big chances and was always ready to roll the dice. Maybe there were times when he lost. But in most cases, he came up big. Very big.

But more than just give Sy Sperling credit, we should also give him thanks.

Because he taught us a number of valuable lessons, even before he published his internet article. And those lessons go beyond creating advertising.

Timing is everything In my opinion, one of the most valuable things that Sy taught the hair replacement industry was about timing. My belief is that Sy read the signs, and probably as a result of knowing the business, being aware of what was going on around him, and perhaps, plain old gut feel, he pushed the button at just the right time.

Consider that in the late seventies, hair replacement advertising as we know it today didn’t even exist. Yes, there were small “Mom and Pop” studios running manufacturers’ ads for toupees here and there. But even this “back of the book” advertising was few and far between.

Then, something began to happen. A local New York studio named Hair Again started running quarter page ads in national publications like Penthouse and Playboy. “A man and his mane” was its tag line. What it was selling was a surgical procedure that sewed a hair unit to the scalp. Of course, the ads never used the word toupee or weave.

Around the same time, an organization named Look International, also selling a process similar to Hair Again, started running in high profile magazines. “Skin grafts for hair” was their headline, and they, too, never mentioned the word toupee or weave.

Capitalizing on a trend In September of 1980, the first meeting of HRS was held. This was an organization that started as a marketing co-op and then became a full-fledged franchise later on. The topic of discussion was what the co-op could do to create effective advertising that spoke to consumers in different ways than the industry had addressed them in the past.

Soon, HRS studios were running newspaper ads and full-page ads in regional issues of magazines like Penthouse. Other studios not associated with HRS started running print ads as well, not as glossy and professional as HRS—but they had studied HRS well and adopted its language and were now advertising in the new “modern” manner.

It’s hard to believe that Sy Sperling was not

aware of all this advertising activity when he was making plans of his own. And his plans trumped every one else: In the very early eighties, he made a splash by running fullpage ads in the New York Times magazine; then, while everyone else was running print, Sy took to the airwaves with TV commercials.

Sy was ahead of the curve. No wonder he became so successful. Instead of just doing what everyone else was doing, Sy looked beyond and saw opportunities that few others did.

Taking advantage of a "new" medium Very few people recognize what was one of the most fundamental elements to Sy’s success. He took advantage of a new medium that began within an existing one: the advent of the cable superstation.

In the early 1980s, cable TV was growing at a phenomenal rate. Household cable penetration was under 20% in 1980 and grew to over 50% by 1990. The problem the cable operators had was that there was not enough programming.

To fill their channels, a deal was struck with local independent stations such as WTBS in Atlanta, WOR in Chicago, and WPIX in New York: the cable providers would carry the stations for their subscribers, and in turn, the stations would be able to give the additional viewers to their advertisers as a bonus.

You see, in those days, measurement of cable viewership was almost non-existent.

So “superstations” such as WTBS, WOR and WPIX couldn’t guarantee rates. But what they could do was go to a local advertiser and say, “hey, if you buy New York, you’ll also have people seeing your commercial from Boston to Baltimore.

That meant that an advertiser like Hair Club, could run its commercials in New York and then get leads from the entire Eastern seaboard. For free! The advertiser could then attempt to entice the leads to come to New York, or could use the leads as the basis for opening another office in another city.

Money talks, doodie walks Underlying everything that Sy did was that he spent a lot of money supporting his advertising efforts. Well before he was a national chain, Sy was spending millions in an industry that counted its advertising dollars in the thousands.

It’s obvious to me that Sy believed in his advertising and had faith in what he was doing. In most markets, Sy outspent his competition at least twenty to one. In some cases, that number might have been as high as 100 to 1. At levels like that, his message had to get through. And it did.

The Sy wannabes If imitation is the highest point of flattery, then Sy must feel very flattered.

Countless numbers of his competitors attempted to copy his infomercial and commercial format, a format that can be described as “the testimonial”.

Certainly, everyone is familiar with Sy’s testimonial format: men speaking into a camera, describing their experiences with hair loss and their experience with Hair Club; specifically, what made them go to Hair Club and the results they experienced afterwards. Interspersed with the men talking were usually scenes of them perform-ing activities that were in reality a “torture test” for the process, i.e., swimming, water skiing, driving a convertible, playing sports, etc.

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A few of the Sy wannabes, the studio owners who produced commercials that were almost exact replicas of Sy’s, ended up coming somewhat close to duplicating a Hair Club commercial/infomercial; most of them, however, didn’t. They didn’t have the high production values that Sy’s productions did, and in most cases, featured far fewer models giving testimonials. The hair didn’t look as good as it did in Hair Club commercials, either.

However, at the time, even the poor copies of Sy’s commercials/infomercials performed fairly well. The better copies, naturally, performed better. I have no idea what kind of cost per lead numbers Sy’s advertising generated, so I can’t compare his results with those who copied him.

But I do know what kind of response his many copiers generated. And most everyone who ran this type of commercial from the late mid-1980s through the mid1990s, made money from it.

To paraphrase former president Bill Clinton, that depends what you mean by “it.” Would the type of commercials and infomercials that Sy made popular work today? I can’t speak of Sy’s Hair Club infomercials, but I do know that those who copied his spots saw their numbers degenerate badly in the past eight or nine years. The testimonial format these Sy wannabes utilized, which once pulled leads in the $70-$90 cost range, soon saw those numbers shoot to over $200 per lead, in a relatively short period of time, based on the information I had; again, I have no idea how Hair Club spots performed during this period, so I can’t speculate how Hair Club spots would perform today.

The one thing I do know is that running infomercials today has become very problematic: it is very hard to buy infomercial time today. Infomercials have become a big business. And large infomercial companies that function like ad agencies for infomercials, now buy up huge blocks of infomercial time a year or two in advance that they in turn sell back to their own clients. So for today’s studio, particularly those in the bigger cities, the amount of infomercial time available is very limited and the cost very high.

So what would work today?

If you look at what Sy did in the context of the 1980s, and applied it to today’s realities, I think you would find that the same lessons he taught us then still apply today.

Timing, for example. Right now, there has been very little men’s hair replacement advertising on TV for the past several years. That means that pent-up demand is building—men have one fewer option being presented to them than they did a few years ago. Might this be a good time to start advertising again, albeit with a different appeal?

Next, look at the trends. The trend today is now going overwhelmingly to transplants as opposed to non-surgical solutions. Is there a way for non-surgical providers to tap into what the surgical hair restorers are doing…or promising? Might this be part of the different appeal I alluded to in my previous paragraph?

Is there a new medium that can be exploited? Well, the internet is fairly new and is being used extensively by our target audience of men under 40. Wouldn’t the internet be a better bet to capture their imaginations than, say, an infomercial? Or how about mobile messaging? Or internet radio? The list of media choices today are far greater; so are media opportunities.

Finally, there’s money. As in, budgeting enough money to get your message across. Being under-budgeted today is

just as bad as it was in twenty years ago.

But a healthy budget is essential to oiling the wheels of success.

It’s a whole new ballgame, played under the same old rules.

The business has changed; the business has remained the same. It’s as simple as that. In my opinion, the same strategies that Sy employed to formulate his media models are just as viable and vibrant today as they were back in the l980s—-and again, in my opinion, would be just as successful.

Instead of concentrating on what Sy did, it would be helpful instead to focus on why he did what he did. And to draw parallels between then and now.

I’ve just given you a sample of these parallels in the previous section of this article. You can certainly use your own thinking to go beyond them.

When you do, I think you’ll see that the opportunities that this industry encountered twenty-five years ago are still present today. They just come in different forms. And require different tools to unlock them.

Whoever can create these tools will suddenly find themselves out in front and leading the way. A lot like Sy did.

Steven DiManni has worked at some of Madison Avenue’s top advertising agencies for 25 years, rising from junior copywriter to Senior Vice President/Creative Director in his current position. For 24 of those years, Steven has also produced advertising for the hair replacement industry. A long-time consultant for On Rite, Steven has amassed a slew of creative awards, including Clios, Andys, Effies and Echoes. In addition, he is a board member of the prestigious John Caples International Awards and a frequent guest speaker at industry functions.

When Health Insurance Fails You

By Marilyn D

Like many other people, I recently found myself watching news stories about victims of hurricane Katrina who were now receiving government funds and support from their insurance companies to rebuild their homes and lives. And I couldn’t help wondering; if a catastrophe hit my life and I lost all my hair, or if my precious” hair wardrobe” was destroyed, what would I do? Or what about the thousands of other women who lose their hair through chemotherapy, can they turn to their insurance companies for help?

It’s one thing to lose your physical possessions and another to lose your self image.

One gives you safety and a place to be with the people you love. The other is about who you are. When this is taken away, you lose the strength to fight the bigger battles. Cancer patients have to fight their battles alone as they struggle to keep their self image and confront the unthinkable because, sad to say, the folks who were there for Katrina are nowhere to be found when it comes to hairloss. That’s what this article is all about.

I started doing my research the old fashioned way; calling one insurance company after another. What I found was devastating. There is little to no help for cancer patients losing their hair. And that’s a fact!

I started at the bottom of the list and called all the companies in my yellow pages. I asked them if they offered insurance coverage for prosthesis for a cancer or alopecia patient. (continued on pg. 9)

8 The National Hair Journal Fall 2006

The Virtual Energizer Meet Lance Centofanti, the Man Who Took Virtual Reality to Hollywood Anyone who’s received an after hours, “This will only take 10 minutes” phone call, from Lance Centofanti will know why he is called “the Energizer!” Lance wouldn’t recognize ten minutes if they came and sat down next to him! His enthusiasm for the industry is palpable.

This, coupled with his vision of the future, has driven the Virtual Reality group from the few friends sharing marketing materials to one of the most dynamic trade associations in the country.

Virtual Reality has shown dramatic growth in a market which is showing signs of softening. Its growth can be attributed to its fashion-forward image, its readiness to embrace new technologies and its dynamic leadership. The network is a division of American Hairlines, which itself is part of the HairUWear group of companies.

Michael Napolitano is President, CEO of the parent company and he joins us next issue to talk about The Hair U Wear® family of brands which includes Put on Pieces, the Raquel Welch Signature Collection of wig, Great Lengths professional hair extensions… and now the new Jessica Simpson collection. With sister companies like these, Virtual Reality is poised for stardom.

NHJ: To quote South Pacific, “You gotta have a dream; If you don’t have a dream, how you gonna have a dream come true?” Lance, what was the dream?

LC: My vision for Virtual Reality from

the outset was to take the “need” market and integrate it into the fashion and celebrity segment to create some excitement in an industry that was running low on adrenaline. There were a lot of bewildered clients out there looking for something fashionable, but ending up with a toupee-look. I saw a market that was no longer responsive to its customers. It wasn’t until I began to work with Mr. Napolitano and our sister companies that I came to realize that we needed to go back to the drawing board and create a new brand to offer customers the fashion awareness they were looking for. We needed new imagery and we needed new technology.

NHJ: This makes such good sense today, but, at the time, this was a new

way of thinking. What made you believe that the consumer was ready for fashion after so many years of hair replacements being sold as a cover-up?

LC: The answer probably lies in my own background. I didn’t come into the business through hair replacement. I was a hairdresser and I was used to creating fashionable looks for our clients. When I got involved in hair replacement, I could see firsthand how dissatisfied these clients really were. When you decide to replace your hair, that’s a pretty dramatic step. If a man’s going to spend money to make himself look more attractive, he wants to know that when he walks into a family gathering or a business meeting people are looking him in the eye rather than up at his hairline.

NHJ: The most famous advertising campaign in our industry featured Sy Sperling telling viewers they’d get their hair back just like he did. What is the message from Virtual Reality?

LC: That’s a great question. Our answer is, we don’t just give you hair; we give you something that will change the way you live.

NHJ: Great promise; what about the product!

LC: We knew from the start that we had to get very aggressive with the product.

If we wanted to create finer hair systems and more natural hairlines, we couldn’t allow ourselves to remain trapped by problems of product durability. The concept of “renewable” hair was the key.

This, combined with our Dermalense attachment method, proved to be a winning combination. Of course, we had to educate our clients and explain the benefits of long-term service plans, but once they understood that you can’t keep “refreshing” a worn out hair system and need to replace frequently, the rest came easy. Richard Farrell touts the fact that we need to make better hair systems that are more expensive. The problem is it doesn’t matter how expensive the product is, the product is the product is the product. If it doesn’t grow, it’s going to look awful after 5-6 weeks. A fashionable, natural, lightweight hair system is a better answer.

NHJ: Two follow-up questions; they both have to do with fashion. The first one is; technically how do you go about “creating” fashion?

LC: You can’t do it without a talented staff. Our industry still needs a lot of growth in this area.

Artists who touch the clients still need to build their styling skills. A client going into a high end beauty salon or spa expects a high level of flair and expertise. At this time, the hair replacement industry does not offer that. Many technicians deliver one hair cut, or a few variations of one haircut, for virtually every client. That’s because the old hair systems did not allow for much flexibility. We have to bring in the modern concepts and let our image consultants create a little excitement.

NHJ: You used the term “image consultant.” What’s an image consultant?

LC: At all our VR-Live trainings, the first thing I try to establish is the fact that the key component of our future success is the commitment of the staff to a fashion-forward image. The Staff has

to engage, enchant and enthrall their customers. Every business model I know today, whether it be Starbucks or Jet Blue, shows us that it’s not about the “marketing.” Their marketing is their people! I don’t’ look at our people as technicians. They change the way people feel about themselves and the way they live their lives. That’s why I refer to them as image consultants.

NHJ: Is it necessary to have image consulting skills to be part of the Virtual Reality group?

LC: We have guidelines for our group, but we don’t choose our members by how big or small they are. We’re looking for a sense of style and adventure. We want to create businesses where people “celebrate” hair, not apologize for it. We embrace new technologies like laser

“Our answer is, we don’t just give you hair; we give you something that will change the way you live.” therapy because fashion is all about choice.

NHJ: If you have sophisticated products, and your consultants are fashionforward, how do you get the message out to the consumer?

LC: The first thing we tried to create was positive brand awareness. We wanted the consumer to associate Virtual Reality with a certain kind of style and fashion. Next, we wanted to give our dealers a different kind of advertising vehicle. We needed to create a stir on the celebrity side of the marketplace and create some PR awareness. I’m proud to say that we’ve been able to do that very well. Its one of the most exciting things we’ve accomplished. As a result, our dealers have been featured on Fox News, ABC News and ABC affiliates. We’ve been on ‘Extreme Makeover’ and ‘Movie and a Makeover.’ We’ve been invited to Hollywood to make special presentations to the union that does all the make-up and hair for the top movie stars. This PR buzz enhances our advertising six-fold.

When clients visit our website, they find many of these images and videos. We’re finding that often they’ve make a decision even before they come into the studio. When a client calls us, they’re not calling to ask how much this costs; they’re calling to ask how to get a riskfree Hollywood makeover.

NHJ: I know you’re not allowed to name names, but on your website you say that Virtual Reality is the, “Choice of film stars, actors and directors.” Tell us about this.

LC: You know, it’s gotten very thrilling.

One of our most successful programs is a free makeover. We invite clients to come in and have a free makeover at absolutely no risk to themselves. It’s our, “Love It or Leave It” program.

Because of this, we were invited down to

Burbank, California to present Virtual Reality. I brought along Chris Licursi, and when the hair and make-up professionals from the film studios saw his hair they were just blown away. They just couldn’t believe it. And these were people who do hair styling for movie stars on a regular basis! As a result of that, we’ve been contacted by many celebrities and have provided hair for numerous stars in the industry, (names withheld by NHJ for privacy). These were not people we solicited in any way; these are stars who asked us to give them the best hair the industry has to offer. We also have a very influential movie director and producer who is not only a VR client himself, but has insisted that all his actors who need a hair replacement contact Virtual Reality. On four occasions already, we have been flown in to provide all the hair for some well-known television and movie productions. The latest was the “Celestine Prophecies” which is in distribution right now.

NHJ: So you have top stylists and make-up professionals coming to you to learn about the latest hair replacement solutions?

LC: I know it sounds almost preposterous, particularly when our industry was not well regarded on the past; but I remember the remarks of union vicepresident, Linda Arnold when she flew to New York to present Virtual Reality to some fashion editors. She said, “I’m in the movie business. I do celebrities for a living. I have to tell you that I’m flabbergasted. This product’s better than anything I got to use for my celebrity clients.”

NHJ: There will be people who read this interview and say “I’m all about fashion myself. I just don’t know how to bring it to my clients.” How can they be part of this?

LC: We’re sometimes accused of being too selective, but that’s not what drives us. We’re not looking to exclude anyone who has talent and ambition. It’s just that we want involved, motivated people who believe in our vision. We’re not just about creating beautiful looks for Hollywood celebrities and ignoring the everyday guy. There’s no reason we can’t create the same things for every guy and gal in the marketplace that needs hair.

However, Virtual Reality is not for someone who simply wants a hairpiece. If someone wants to cover up with a hairpiece, they’re better off in a barber shop.

NHJ: How many Virtual Reality dealers are there today?

LC: We’re approaching 75 dealers. We are introducing Virtual Reality into some major international networks also, Singapore, Australia, Canada and Mexico.

NHJ: In North America there are only a

9 The National Hair Journal Fall 2006

few openings remaining to become a Virtual Reality dealer. How do people apply?

LC: They should contact the Virtual Reality group in Sunrise, Florida. If a client purchases our marketing program, we try to make that program pay them back within the first few months. We do that through a very aggressive training called Virtual Reality Live. We go in and actually work with their stylists, image consultants, the owners and even the receptionist.

NHJ: Is there a flat fee to join or does it depend on the size of the market?

LC: Virtual Reality membership is based on a license that gives them exclusive rights in their territory to both our men and women’s programs. They also get the right to book a special “VR Live.” This is a promotional program which typically produces $65 - $75,000 in revenue over a weekend.

So I guess you could say there really is no cost factor to become a VR studio. It’s more of a commitment to excitement.

NHJ: What starts happening the moment someone joins the group?

LC: We try to provide to the dealer the same thing we’re asking him or her to provide their customers - unbelievable customer service. We have a staff of 10 in Florida, plus a support group in Kansas

BOSLE Y HAIR RESTORATION A group of full-time boardcertified surgeons with more than 90 years of combined hair restoration experience More than 180,000 individual hair restoration procedures performed 85 Bosley locations nationwide

“We try to provide to the dealer the same after hair restoration

thing we’re asking him or her to provide their customers - unbeliev-

before hair restoration

able customer service. ” City to service 75 Virtual Reality members.

We are able to provide tremendous attention to those accounts. We are constantly in communication with them via e-mail, newsletters, and special announcements.

We are on top of our game.

NHJ: What about that specialized training?

LC: We don’t have an academy. If people want to learn about Virtual Reality, we do it either in a VR Live, or they can take specialized classes at one of our mentoring studios. This takes at place an existing VR con-cept studio, not a classroom where they may be distracted by 30 other students. NHJ: Do you provide marketing materi-als?

LC: We are constantly upgrading our marketing messages. We consult with the CFG Group, which in my opinion is the Gold Standard in “need market” marketing.

Then we have special offerings from vendors like the Linq Hair Care Group. Most of our support products are exclusive to our Virtual Reality network and they are the best. An example would be Howard Margolin’s bonding agents from Professional HairLabs. Virtual Reality is a total support system where we treat our customers like guests at Bellagio.

NHJ: Clearly the formula is working because the group has expanded dramatically.

LC: My first year, there was no Virtual Reality. It had yet to be invented. I had to come up with a name, a marketing program and of course we had to come up with product. That took over 14-15 months to accomplish. We held our first Virtual Reality meeting just over three years ago in Phoenix. Since that time our membership has grown to 75 retailers and our revenues are up over five times.

NHJ: When does the group meet next?

LC: We’ll be getting together the 3rd and 4th of December at the Sofitel Hotel in Houston, Texas. I believe we’re the only manufacturer sponsored event that limits attendance to its members only.

NHJ: Have a great meeting… and please NHJ give our best to Hollywood!

Call to schedule your FREE private consultation.Or call to receive your FREE DVD and 44-page Guidebook

Individual results may vary

BOSLEY 800-897-5152 www.bosley.com The World’s Most Experienced Hair Restoration Experts PROFESSIONAL SERVICES PROVIDED

Health Insurance

(continued from pg. 7)

Most companies had never heard of alopecia, needed me to spell it, and promised to get back to me. Ninety-nine percent never called back! So I called them again. The response was always the same; “Sorry, but the answer is NO. Most insurance personnel are taught early on to say “no.”

You have to climb to the top of the ladder to get someone to listen to you. When I made it up the rungs, I was told every case was an individual case and had to be treated as such.

What makes one case different from another?

Does it depend on the type of cancer you have, or whether you stand a chance of being cured? Is cancer more devastating for one person than another? And what about alopecia? No matter how many doctors’ notes you have stating that this is a lifelong situation, it doesn’t matter. Your hair loss is considered “cosmetic.”

The insurance companies are in the business of collecting money, your money, and keeping it. The catch phrase thrown to me most often was the “integrity” of the policy. What integrity is there when sick and needy clients receive no benefits. What dictionary do they use to define integrity? Mine says “honesty, soundness.”

I know what my hair means to me and I’m sure it’s the same for other women. Doesn’t the Bible call it our “crowning glory?” I battled and survived cancer. My battle with

BY THE

LICENSED MEDICAL DOCTORS FOUNDER

OF THE

BOSLEY MEDICAL GROUP, L.LEE BOSLEY, M.D,

alopecia was not as successful. My “crowning glory” gets no help from my insurance even though it is the result of a medical condition and it affects my mental and physical well-being. If this depresses me, I can always get psychotherapy or mood enhancing drugs on my insurance, but I cannot fix the root cause. There’s logic for you...

There are other medical conditions that are also given the cold shoulder. Take anorexia.

Tim Whitmere of the Associated Press reports that researchers have concluded that over fifty percent of a person’s risk for developing this sometimes fatal disorder is determined by their genes. But the insurance companies view anorexia as a voluntary thing. “New studies hammer home the fact that these are biologically based disorders,” says Cynthia Bulik, a psychiatrist at the School of Medicine at the University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill. “We need to stop viewing them as a choice…the patients feel guilty, the providers tell them they should just eat, parents are blamed, and the insurance companies won’t fund treatment because they think it’s a choice.”

So here are two acute conditions that get no sympathy from medical insurers. I’m sure there are many others. In our own field, most experts believe there are strong genetic com-ponents to alopecia. And as an inherited med-ical condition, it deserves medical coverage. I don’t want to hear that this is a “cosmetic” problem. You don’t choose to lose your hair.

Don’t they shave the heads of traitors as the ultimate degradation? Who would choose to look like that? Genetic disorders and illnesses such as alopecia and cancer are choices taken away from us, not given to us. I have always believed that health insurance was something to attain because it was a way to help us through the battles of life. But somewhere along the way things have gone wrong.

I have to believe that somewhere out there is an insurance company that offers hope to women who are battling hair loss… or any other misunderstood medical condition. If the insurance companies don’t insure against the things that matter most, then people will find other solutions. Already, young adults make up 40% of the 6 million people who joined the ranks of the uninsured between 2000 and 2004, the last year for which data was available.

I’ve always been an optimist. With your support and our joint efforts; let’s see if we can turn this situation around!

Marilyn D is a private consultant to companies developing solutions for woman with hair loss.

She travels extensively to meet with hair-management specialists and professional organizations like the American Cancer Society and the National Alopecia Areata Foundation (NAAF).

She is a popular guest on morning shows and recently appeared on ‘Sacramento and Company’ and ‘Sonora Living’ in Phoenix. She will be in Houston in December to present the Virtuesse and Virtual Reality collections from American Hairlines.

NHJ

10 The National Hair Journal Fall 2006

11 The National Hair Journal Fall 2006

Laser Hair Therapy Staying Compliant with FDA Regulations

By Donald Osendowski Donald Osendowski is President and owner of Scalp Laser Inc., a company that manufactures nine different hair and skin laser therapy devices. He goes to extreme lengths to ensure that the equipment his company distributes is fully compliant with FDA guidelines. He has good reason to be thankful for this detailed research and record-keeping since his offices have been visited and inspected by the Federal Drug Administration (FDA). He was found to be in good standing.

Don is a member of the National Hair Society where he shares his professional insights with the Society’s Laser Advisory Panel. We print an extract from one of his advisory worksheets here.

Low- level laser therapy (also known as photo-bio stimulation or photo-therapy) is a new field which promises great benefits for hair-management professionals and their clients. Our goal is to ensure that hair replacement salons and restoration clinics do not overstep permissible product claims and, in their marketing enthusiasm, stray from ‘cosmetic’ to ‘medical’ claims.

Information Sources - I had to do a lot of research for the legal guidelines of my business. My three major sources of information were the FDA (Food & Drug Administration), LIA (Laser institute of America), and the FDC (Federal Trade Commission).

Cosmetic Not Medical Devices - To date, there has been no medical approval for LLLT (low level laser therapy) in the United States for hair re-growth, but there has been approval in other areas including pain management and acne treatment.

Who’s in Charge? Manufacturers and retailers of hair therapy devices are governed by the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act, originally signed into law by FDR on 25 June 1938. The FDA does not regulate cosmetic devices, but the lasers being class 3A devices, must comply with the FDA performance standards, which are the IEC 60825 and the 21 CFR 1040.10 for Class 3 laser products.

A class 3A laser rating specifically means, the laser output power, is no more than 5 Milo watts.

Hair Growth Research - Although there are several companies conducting studies for hair re-growth, to our knowledge, there is only one company at this time that has filed their results with the FDA. They are currently waiting to learn whether the FDA will approve or deny their medical claims.

Medical vs. Cosmetic - So what’s the difference between a medical claim and a cosmetic claim? We spoke with the FDA direct to find out the answer. According to the FDA, a medical claim is a claim that affects the structure of the hair. As opposed to a cos-

metic claim, which affects the appearance of hair.

So What Can You Say? We emailed the FDA to ask, “What are the guidelines for promoting our products?” and received the following reply from FDA representative, Richard Felton; “We would have no issues if your device is promoted for ‘Affecting the appearance of hair’, ‘Makes the hair appear to look fuller or thicker’. What you cannot say is that ‘It MAKES the hair, fuller or thicker’ since this would be interpreted to mean the device is affecting the structure in some way.”

I would strongly advise anyone selling lasers or laser treatments to use claims like these: 1. The hair looks healthier, fuller and thicker.

2. The hair will appear to look thicker.

3. It reduces the appearance of thinning hair.

4. Results you can see.

Learn from Others - Look at how major companies advertise their cosmetic products. These major companies spend lots of money branding their products using cosmetic claims.

Do Not Reference Overseas Research Some laser hair therapy devices have medical approval in other countries. But these studies and research cannot be used to make claims in the United States because the FDA has not medically approved them and this would constitute misleading information, Example - Your promotion materials cannot say, “This is approved to grow hair in Canada” even though this is factually correct because it implies a medical benefit that has yet to be accepted by the FDA in the U.S. Note also, if or when a hair therapy device gets approved by the FDA, for hair regrowth, you still CANNOT make medical claims unless you use that particular device.

I want to make one thing crystal clear! I do not care if your hair therapy device uses lasers, LED’s, light bulbs, or even candles, if the manufacturer makes medical claims; it’s a medical device, as far as the FDA is concerned. So if you buy a machine or device from a manufacture making medical claims, you better make damn sure the company you purchase it from, has the 510k medical approval to back it up.

Advertising Regulation - The FTC (Federal Trade Commission) regulates cosmetic claims and advertisements. For instance, you cannot put dog doo in a jar and, and claim it to make your hair look fuller and thicker. There has to be a study or proof behind the product that backs up the cosmetic claims.

I have been in the hair business for years and people always tell me the same thing, “It grows hair, I’ve seen it myself. I am not lying!” No, no, no! You still cannot say or advertise that! Until your device gets the 510k medical approval, stick to the cosmetics.

ALL Hair Products Regulated - I would also like to state that this information goes for other hair care products as well such as shampoos, topical solutions, etc.

Remember there are only two FDA approved remedies that can make medical claims, Rogaine, and its generic form, and Propecia. Nothing else including Minoxidil, or products mixed with Minoxidil, can claim to grow hair, because, Minoxidil by itself was not approved to grow hair.

Backdoor Marketing Doesn’t Fly - Some people came up with the idea of marketing their laser (continued on pg. 16)

12 The National Hair Journal Fall 2006

13 The National Hair Journal Fall 2006

Working with Women and Children.... Another Perspective Part I Marsha Scott, owner and founder of the Bethel, Connecticut based Marsha Scott’s Hair Loss Clinic for Women, says that she gives back to women what nature can’t.

In this first half of a two-part interview, with Penny Moss, Marsha tells us her passion and drive comes from her own experience with hair loss. As a juvenile diabetic, she has been a victim of thinning hair all her life. Marsha is currently serving as Vice President of the American Hair Loss Council.

She is a member of the National Cosmetology Association and the National Association for Female Executives. She also acts as a facilitator for The American Cancer Society’s, “Look Good..Feel Better” program at a local hospital. Most recently she has joined forces with “Children with Hair Loss” a nonprofit organization which provides free hair replacement for children coping with hair loss.

NHJ: What does a really good friend do to help someone go through hair loss?Should you pretend you don’t notice to save their feelings or do you get right to it and say it’s okay, it doesn’t matter, you look great without hair?

MS: People really suffer from hairloss.

It’s not something that’s taken lightly.

They feel pain, they feel anguish.

Sometimes it’s excruciatingly difficult to say the obvious, but if it’s a friend, a really close friend, it’s good to show you understand. Maybe you say, “I know a facility that gives free consultations, you might want to go over sometime...” Just knowing there are choices can be a huge relief. If they go and they receive hair, they’ll be very, very thankful.

NHJ:Marsha, you work with women and children with hair loss; both of them areas that need special understanding and training.

MS: The clients we see are generally women who are suffering from thinning hair due to genetics or some type of hormonal difficulty. For them, we would typically design a crown system because usually it’s the crown area of the scalp that has begun to thin and is now see-through.

We will design a hair system that can be bonded onto the client’s own growing hair.

We do not cut any hair off a woman’s head to add this hair; we try to leave the hair intact no matter how thin it is. We do this for reasons of personal dignity. Cutting or shaving hair off the head is demeaning.

We design our hair systems on an individ-

ual basis to reflect the clients’ preferred style. We take into consideration the length of the hair, the wave pattern, and of course the styling of the hair, which includes questions like, do they use a blow dryer, do they use a flat iron, and what types of procedures are they going to need to upkeep the finished product?

So, it’s not just a question of designing a hair system, there’s a whole followthrough process we need to plan for also.

Remember, our clients now have the opportunity to choose styles they couldn’t have dreamed about before getting their new hair.

NHJ:Are your female clients fashion-conscious young women or older women wanting to correct a thinning problem?

MS: Age-wise, it splits evenly between over and under 40 yrs. We have fashionmotivated clients and clients with special needs. Our cancer patients and alopecia patients each receive different types of hair system. The cancer patient will receive a medical cranial prosthesis designed specifically for their situation. It is made from lightweight, hand-tied,

breathable material that is comfortable to wear. Importantly, it is low maintenance because people are not feeling as good as they should and don’t want extra work to do. For the alopecia patient who has lost all her hair, we would design a vacuum system. This is a totally different type of medical prosthetic specifically for women who have no hair at all. We start by making a cast of the cranium, that is the bone structure, and then record the hair texture, color and wave pattern on a special order form. When the finished product comes in, it fits perfectly and the vacuum seal stays on snugly. The client feels confident and secure.

In the next issue of the NHJ, Marsha will explain how children are a very special part of her outreach. She is involved in launching the “Wigs for Children” program. It is a non-prof it organization where children can receive a complete hair system free. It’s compelling reading, don’t miss it!

14 The National Hair Journal Fall 2006

The National Hair Journal PROMOTING

Medical Section

COOPERATION BETWEEN THE ARTISTRY OF HAIR REPLACEMENT AND THE SCIENCE OF HAIR RESTORATION

“Follicle Five” Get New Hair, Better Lives Boca Raton, FL. 06/05 - While many people tend to laugh off baldness as an insignificant “cosmetic” ailment, for those who have it, hair loss is no laughing matter. Aside from the physical impact, baldness can also be psychologically and socially crippling severely diminishing the quality of life for those whom it afflicts.

Just ask Paul Silva. For 10 years, Paul, 38, was so embarrassed by his baldness that he refused to be photographed with his wife and kids. Even going out in public was terrifying. As Paul admitted, he used to have a hat “in arm’s reach all the time” because he was so mortified by his hair loss.

But thanks to advanced medical treatment, Paul’s life has changed - and he’s buying fewer hats these days. “I am retaining it,” Paul said, about his restored hairline. “I am still an active, vibrant person. Now that I have hair, I can honestly tell you, I go out a lot now without my hats.”

Paul is one of five men suffering from hair loss who were selected for the Dateline NBC special, “The Follicle Five.” Producers for the show selected the five men due to the varying types of hair loss they suffered, and tracked their progress with hair restorative treatments over a six-month and 12-month timeframe.

The procedures were supervised by Dr. Alan Bauman, founder and medical director of the Bauman Medical Group, in Boca Raton, Florida. To help educate the show’s viewers, Dr. Bauman’s group used different techniques for each “Follicle Five” participant to show that patients have a variety of hair restoration options to choose from.

For Paul’s treatment, Dr. Bauman used a multi-therapy approach. First, he transplanted over 1,900 “follicular-unit micrografts” to restore Paul’s hairline and give him more coverage where he needed it most. Next, to prevent future hair loss of the non-transplanted hair, Dr. Bauman prescribed two FDA-approved medications: Propecia, a pill that has been shown to block the production of DHT, the hormone which causes male pattern baldness, and Minoxidil, a topical solution rubbed directly on the scalp that prolongs the growth phases of failing follicles. Post-operatively, a unique combination of hyperbaric oxygen therapy and low level laser light therapy was also used to accelerate Paul’s recovery after surgery, as well as improve post-op discomfort.

After six months, Paul said he was “thrilled” by the improved hair coverage.

And at the one year mark, Paul’s hair showed substantial growth, especially in the temporal areas where it had been weakest.

Paul’s above average results add credence to the multi-therapy approach, according to Dr. Bauman. “By combining a series of medical treatments, patients like Paul can see a truly remarkable transformation in their hairline as well as protect themselves from losing the non-transplanted hair,” Dr. Bauman said. “Even more important, Paul’s results - like all hair transplant recipients using today’s advanced artistic techniques, were one hundred percent natural and undetectable.”

The other “Follicle Five” patients also saw positive results from the treatments. Dr.

Paulo Romanelli, a Dermatologist who helped the show’s producers evaluate the progress of each patient, noted that each of the “Follicle Five” participants either achieved new hair growth or retained existing hair.

But as each patient followed a different treatment path, the results varied.

George Suero, 43, tried a unique approach for his hair loss. For George, who suffers from a receded hairline and balding in the crown area, Dr. Bauman recommended a “laser comb” device. This device stimulates hair follicles in the affected area with a low level laser light. After six months with the “laser comb,” new hairs could already be seen in the crown. And after a year, Dr. Romanelli reported that George’s hair showed “substantial results” with additional new follicles appearing in the crown.

Joe, 54, is the father of two young girls and says he is frequently mistaken as their grandfather. For Joe’s treatment, Dr. Bauman prescribed Propecia and an extrastrength version of Minoxidil. After six months of using these prescription medica-

tions, Joe’s hairline showed positive results, and after one year “mild to moderate follicle growth” could be seen.

Hector Romero, 38, had been losing his hair for more than 10 years when he signed up for the program. To help prevent additional hair loss, Romero took Viviscal, a marinebased nutritional supplement tablet from Finland, twice a day. According to the makers of Viviscal, the medication works best for people in the early stages of hair loss.

Six months after he began taking Viviscal, Hector reported that it appeared to have stopped falling out and that his hair had better volume and texture. One year later, Dr. Romanelli noticed that the supplement continued to prevent hair loss in Hector, but it did not appear to stimulate any new hair growth in the bi-temporal regions.

George’s twin brother, Richard Suero, 43, also participated in the “Follicle Five” program. Richard, who has a balding crown, was prescribed Propecia by Dr. Bauman, which he took once a day. Results were noticeable after six months of using the drug; and after a full year, moderate hair

growth was observed, especially around the bi-temporal areas.

While all five of the patients saw positive results with treatment, Paul Silva’s improvement outpaced everyone’s. Calling Paul’s results “incredible,” Dr. Romanelli went on to say that his results were without a doubt “the best of the five.” Dr. Bauman attributes these superior findings to the multi-therapy approach used on Paul.

By combining a number of effective hair restoration treatments - like laser therapy and prescription drugs, in conjunction with the results of an artistically designed and carefully executed hair transplant - patients have a better chance of getting more of their own living and growing hair back, faster.

“Patients should try to take advantage of all the remarkable new technologies that are available today,” Dr. Bauman said. “Paul’s case is a great example of the efficacy of combined treatments. It’s also a testament to the enormous gains that the field of hair restoration surgery has made in the last NHJ few years.”

15 The National Hair Journal Fall 2006

IS IT THE MANUFACTURER OR IS IT YOU?

By Jim (The General) Toscano Ah, summer! Beautiful sunshine, warm breezes, wonderful vacations, and… problems! I’ve gotten quite a few calls from you about problems you’re having with custom units, bonding, and other issues.

So I’m going to use this space to try and answer some of the more pressing questions today.

Who’s Really to Blame? A lot of the problems that you are having you may be bringing on yourselves. Some of them could well be the result of improper design of a hair system, the education you’re giving your client about their hair, the products you are using, etc.

Base Materials - I know a lot of you design custom systems instead of using pre-custom systems. These are great, as long as you have educated yourself about custom design details. You need to familiarize yourself with the materials for the base. Make your selection based on the bonding method, the client’s lifestyle, and the density of the hair system. Also, make sure you know how much hair the base material you choose can support. Too often you design a base that can only support light density, though you want medium density. When the client wears the system, the system starts to fall apart.

Knotting - Think about the type of knots you use in the system, and why you use that specific knot. For some reason, the manufacturers don’t seem to educate you on which types of knots and base materials to use. The person you’re dealing with in the custom order department has no idea about the client you’re designing the hair system for. Maybe he’s active, or maybe it’s an older client - man or woman -who requires a system for some specific need. Do you want the hair system to last for 30 days or do you want it to last for a year? If the company you are dealing with has not asked you these questions, why would you let them design your hair? You need to be knowledgeable about all facets of hair design. I’m not saying that the manufacturers are wrong, but they all need better educational classes on the design of hair systems.

Bonding - I’m also still getting calls about bonding nightmares. If you had a client whose scalp looks like raw meat and is covered with open, weeping sores, would you bond the system back on? Of course not! Would you continue to use the same bond on his head? Maybe.

Often it’s not the adhesive that is causing the irritation; it can be the adhesive remover you are using. Although most good adhesive removers cost in excess of $150 a gallon, they are well worth the investment. A typical application of this type of remover costs about $0.30 a client. You’ll have no scalp irritation, a happy client, and most important - no law- suits. Your clients are putting their trust in you to make them look good, but also not to do them harm. Research the bonds and adhesive removers you use and make sure you have an MSD sheet for each one. If an MSD sheet isn’t available on any product - DON’T USE IT! Don’t get stuck in a rut and use the same bonding product on every client.

Try some of the newer co-polymer bonds. Remember -no one adhesive is good for every client.

Lace - Having any problems with the hair coming out of the front of a lace system? Do you keep returning systems because of this problem? Have you told

your client that their lace system is going to last for a year, only to have the hair fall out shortly after you install it? Is it the manufacturer or is it you? Is your client taping the Jim Toscano system down and removing it at night or are you bonding the lace system down and having your technicians remove it? If you are selling a lace system to a daily-wear client, you must educate them on the proper removal of the lace tape in the front of the system.

You should give no guarantees about the life of this type of system. You must stress that this is a very delicate system, but with the proper care, it could last 6-8 months.

Remember, the knotting on a lace system is very different from the knotting on any other system. That’s why it is so undetectable.

Adhesive Remover - If the system is bonded, no matter how loose the system may seem to be on the client’s head when they return for service, you must first spray adhesive remover down through the hair onto the lace and wait 5 minutes before lifting the front of the system up. If you don’t use this process and you just pull the system off the client’s head, you’re going to lose hair out of the front hairline.

You may not notice the difference in the first few services, but you will in the next few services. This is not a manufacturer’s problem; it’s yours. Again, keep in mind that the knots are different in the lace.

Lace Cleaning Gun - When you’re cleaning the systems, do you use a lace cleaning gun? If not, are you scraping the adhesive off the base with some type of implement? If you are, you’re just asking for problems. It is virtually impossible to get all of the adhesive out of the system without a lace cleaning gun. The “scraping” method is a great way to pull hair out of the system. Remember when the manufacturer designs the system; the density in the front is light to make it look realistic. If you lose 20-25 hairs every time you service the client, in 4 services, you’ve lost 80-100 hairs.

Need More Help? - If you are interested in a class on custom base design with full disclosure on knots and materials, contact Kristie Handzlik at the National Hair Society. If there is enough interest, I’ll be glad to teach a class through the Society.

Then you will be able to work more closely with your preferred manufacturer to design the custom systems you’ve been dreaming about.

Coming Next Time - I know in my last article, I promised to talk about styling hair systems. I apologize that the content of this article is different, but I felt that the above issues were more pressing. I’ll make sure that my next article is about styling and different types of brushes.

Remember: Perfect isn’t perfect unless it’s perfect.

Until next time...

Where the Heads Are 07/06 - According to the U.S. Bureau of the Census, the resident population of the United States, is currently estimated at 299,267,535. Of this total, 60,000,000 million men are reported to suffer from hairloss, that’s 20% of the population. What about women? The number of women experiencing advanced thinning is projected at 40 million.

Doing a marketing plan? Trying to plan ahead? You may want to develop some language skills.

Population growth is going to come from new immigrants, not your current clients and patients as these numbers show: One birth every......................7 sec.

One death every.................... 13 sec.

One international migrant (net) every......31 sec.

Net gain of one person every.......10 sec.

(COMPONENT SETTINGS FOR JULY 2006)

16 The National Hair Journal Fall 2006

Laser Hair Therapy (continued from pg. 11) using Rogaine, or its generic form, so they can claim to grow hair. Then they say the laser enhances it cosmetically. When we asked the Assistant Attorney-General of Texas, if this is legitimate, his reply was simply NO. Why? Because it is judged to be inherently misleading.

In their opinion, “If you market it that way, and you charge $3,000.00 or more for a year of treatments, people would be paying that kind of money for only one reason, and that is that the laser grows the hair and the Rogaine is the enhancer”. This may vary from state to state, but this is the way the state of Texas views it.

Promises, Promises - I kept hearing that representatives from different companies were telling people that their laser products were about to be FDA approved. I believe most of the representatives of these companies made these statements to entice customers to buy their devices or justify the high cost. I can give you the names and numbers of people who were told this more than 6 years ago and are still waiting for their approval documents. I personally believe that the FDA will approve laser therapy in the not so distant future and that the hair-management landscape will be forever transformed. But until that happens, do not succumb to the temptation of making medical claims to your clients. There are plenty of very real cosmetic benefits that are legitimate and meaningful. Stick with them until that FDA certification is on your desk.

It’s Either Approved or It Isn’t - The first time I heard someone tell me their company was going to get an FDA approval within the next few months, I called the FDA to see if this was true.

They transferred me from one division to the next.

No one seemed to know anything about it. Then the last person I spoke to told me in a nice manner, “Let me tell you something sir, there is no such thing that something is going to be approved, it either is or isn’t”. I got the message.

It’s Easy If You Do It Right - I don’t want to make owning a laser seem difficult, because its not. Lasers are great for your business and for your clients. The FDA classifies the Class-3A laser as cosmetically beneficial and safe to use.

One day, I believe most every salon and clinic will have a laser and many homes too. Until then, remember, the only concerns the FDA would have, arise when you make a medical claim on a non-approved medical device.

More Information Follows - Lasers have important and proven cosmetic applications that I will write about in the Hair Society members’ manual.

You may contact Kristie Handzlik, membership director for more information. I will also explain the technical jargon that might have you confused, such as LED’s vs. lasers, nanometers, Jules, frequency’s, Milo watts, lenses, and much more technical data to give you an education on what to look for in your laser products.

Donald Osendowski is founder and president of ScalpLaser LLC a manufacturer and distributor of cosmetic laser devices. He is a wholesale member of the National Hair Society where he provides technical advice to other members, and he is a contributing editor to the National Hair Journal. Write Don care of the National Hair Journal or call Hair Society director Kristie Handzlik (951-541-2809 x2) with questions or special requests.

LASER HAIR THERAPY Q&A …with James Britt

James Britt

As more and more hair restoration centers and clinics integrate laser hair therapy into their menu of hair management services, the NHJ, National Hair Society and I, continued to receive more questions relating to this exciting technology. Below, are but a few of the many queries to which I have been asked to respond.

Q. What is the treatment protocol for a typical laser hair therapy regimen?

A. Typically a 12 month program consists of 32 laser treatments, each of which is 15 to 30 minutes in duration depending on the laser device employed. The average program is structured as follows: Two treatments per week for 6 weeks, one treatment per week for 10 weeks, two treatments per month for 2 months, followed by one treatment per month for 6 months.

Q. Is it possible to over-stimulate the scalp with laser hair therapy?

A. Yes. As with most things in life, “more” is not necessarily better and over stimulation can provoke hair loss. For this reason it is important to establish the minimum time between treatments as 48 hours.

Q. I have heard that some hair centers combine hands-on scalp treatments with laser therapy. Is this necessary?

A. Not necessarily. One of the benefits of laser hair therapy is that no topical applications need be applied during treatment to enjoy benefits.

However, that is not to say that additional benefits could not be achieved with scalp massage and application of topical products, which create the healthiest environment in which the laser can do its work.

Q. What, if any, are the benefits of combining laser hair therapy treatments with hair transplants?

A. “Cold”or soft laser technology was first used, and continues to be used in wound treatment.

Laser light stimulates blood supply, tissue regeneration and increased cell metabolism leading to accelerated healing of hair transplant donor and recipient sites. There is also anecdotal evidence that newly transplanted grafts tend to grow faster and emerge as more robust hairs.

Q. What is the laser hair therapy treatment protocol, following hair transplant Surgery?

A. Because laser light stimulates blood supply, which can result in bleeding of graft and donor sites, most surgeons prefer to wait a week before beginning a LHT program. Following that, a once-per week treatment regimen for 4-6 months is often implemented to promote healing and accelerate hair growth.

Q. Is it necessary to wear protective eyewear during laser treatment?

A. Yes. Laser manufacturers are required to label their devices with a warning that making direct eye contact with a laser beam could result in eye damage. I know of no instance where this has occurred, but in our increasingly litigious society, we must protect those whom we serve as well as ourselves. One should never stare into a laser beam. The newest laser device on the market, the AlphaLase will not operate until an electronically asked question; “is your client wearing protective glasses?” is satisfactorily answered on its touch-screen.

Q. Is it safe for a pregnant woman to undergo laser hair therapy treatments?

A. There is no clinical evidence, (one way or the other), that LHT could be harmful to the mother or fetus. However, in the absence of any such study, it is always best to err in the direction of caution.

Q. Why does the laser light emitted from my panel laser appear different on the scalp than the light emitted from my hooded laser?

A. Panel lasers generally use laser diodes without lenses, which produce unfocused light.

Hooded lasers employ laser diodes with a glass or plastic lens, which produce a focused laser beam.

Q. I have heard that some hair centers offer a money-back guarantee with their laser hair therapy program; do you recommend this?

A. No. Everyone’s physiology is different and therefore individuals will respond with varying levels of success, while some may not respond at all. If a drug or therapy enjoys a 70% level of success, (which is outstanding), that still means that 30 out of every 100 patients are not going to respond. You do the math.

NHJ

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Lilli of Copenhagen: Laser Hair Care unit from Sweden: $950.00. Mega Hair Extension System used only twice $150.00. Please call Lilli of Copenhagen (772) 286-3703.

17 The National Hair Journal Fall 2006

Hair Society News From Your Membership Director What a beautiful time of year. The weather is getting crisp, the leaves are changing and the yummy smells of cinnamon and pumpkin are hitting the air…unless you’re in the Hair Society office in Southern California!

Kristie Handzlik The temperature outside isn’t cooling down and the temperature in my office is HOT! HOT! HOT! We are on fire with some exciting things happening this fall.

The Society newsletter has started, the inserts have been mailed, our wholesalers are having their conferences in the next few months, we are planning a Science Fair and our Society members are growing in numbers. The Society is HOT! (Did I say that already?) I am really looking forward to attending all the events and having the pleasure of seeing all of you again.

There is so much going on, so keep reading for all the updates!

Elline Surianello, Founder and Client of LeMetric System - My goal has always been to produce the best fashion hair systems available for women. And after 15 years, and as the founder of LeMetric and wearing hair myself for over 25 years I know exactly what works and why.

I would like to introduce some of our committee members. Being a part of a committee is not a hard job and the benefits to all members of the National Hair Society are huge! Be sure to introduce yourself and thank them for the work they are doing. It’s so important.

Charlene Blacer

Not a Member Yet? I’ve learned over the years that sometimes people don’t take action because of a lack of information. I’m assuming that’s why some of you have not joined the Society yet. The Hair Society was created at the request of hair-management specialists like you who are looking for educational, marketing and networking support to grow their business. If I can send you some information about the National Hair Society, please e-mail me at kristieh@nationalhairjournal.com. This way you can read the information at your leisure, download the enrollment form, and if you have any questions you can always reach me at (951) 541-2809 Ext. 2.

European Ambassador, Hans J. Diks. Hans has been in the industry for over 40 years. He has owned 9 salons, a wig and hairpiece import and wholesale business, a hair transplant clinic and is currently the editor of www.haarplaza.nl which is an independent information website on hair problems.

Dawn Harrison, owner and founder of Invisible Hair, has 22 years experience in hair design, and has been specializing in non-surgical hair addition since 1986. She invented the patented “invisible” hair extensions after years of trying to provide hair solutions for clients with hair loss.

Andrea Hayden

Ethics & Professional Standards – Tom Magliaro Women & Hairloss – Charlene Blacer, Vito Mazza, Dr. David Kingsley, New Technologies – Alan Humphries, Charlene Blacer, Vito Mazza, Martin Byrne, Laser Therapy – James Britt, Don Osendowski, Joseph DeGennaro, Vito Mazza Media Relations – Volunteers Needed!

Alex Khadavi, MD; board certified Dermatologist, is the founder and CEO of Advanced Skin and Hair, Inc. and inventor of Revivogen products. Revivogen® is a dermatologist-formulated all-natural hair loss solution against hair loss and thinning hair in men and women.

GiGi Ford

Larry Browning

Dennis & Tina Howell

Gene Pletzer

Dr. David Kingsley

Peter Lim

Joseph DeGennaro

Committee Members

The Factory Tour Because of the disturbance in the Middle East, we have postponed the Factory Tour. We have requested a later date to ensure that we keep all participants safe. Please don’t hesitate to let us know if you are interested in going so we can keep you on our list for updates. Instead of going to the Factories we are setting up a unique Science Fair…read below to find out more!

Our New Wholesale Society Members

Say Hello to Our Latest Retail Society Members

Special Needs – Volunteers Needed!

Medical Research – Volunteers Needed!

Marketing & Advertising – Volunteers Needed!

Society Ambassadors Worldwide

Ireland Ambassador, Martin Byrne. Martin has been in the hair loss business for over 15 years. He worked with many companies in the USA for over 3 years. He has now opened a hair loss treatment center with two laser therapy room and three salon rooms.

Canadian Ambassador, Michael Diebold. Michael consults for Paragon Alternative Design, Inc, a company he created to address the needs of men, women and children experiencing hair loss, Michael devotes his time exclusively to technical development, marketing, and education. His “hands on” teaching style continues to receive accolades both nationally and internationally.

Want to Sell Your Business?

Trying to Build a Network?

Call Hair Synergies Professional Advisors in Mergers & Acquisitions We have over 15 years of experience in the hair industry.

Inquiries treated in strictest confidence

We have assisted large hair groups expand, non-surgical hair-system salons add medical services, and individual studio owners sell their businesses or relocate to new ones.

HAIR SYNERGIES LLC

212-888-2005

Members Not Pictured: Yvonne Solomon, Frank Malik, Loretta Paulus, Pearl Bailey-Anderson, Belinda & Bill O’Brien, Wanda Patterson and Daryl & Judy Grecian.

We will publish their pictures as soon as we receive them.

Texas Ambassador, Tom Magliaro. Tom is convinced that you must “surround yourself with a talented team,” and in his case, he has always surrounded himself with women. He began as the only male teacher in an elementary school in Wayne, New Jersey, but within a few years, he decided that it was his calling to turn his liability (male-pattern baldness) into an asset. He and his wife, Randi, picked up and moved to Texas where he became involved in the hair replacement industry. Including Randi, and their daughter, Victoria, Tom is now surrounded by fifteen women, some who have worked with him for as many as twenty years.

New Jersey Ambassador, Michael Vozzelli. Michael is one of 5 generations of Barbers. To him Barbering was Sheep Shearing. He didn’t want to be a Barber.

As a soldier in the US Army, he first saw hairstyling for men in Germany, and it was there that he decided to learn how to cut and style hair. When he came home and told his dad he encouraged him to pursue it, build his skills and find the best in the field to work with. Michael has been doing hair ever since and he loves it. He continues to learn technical skills and share his knowledge with others in the field. Michael is currently an educator with Nioxin Research Labs,of Atlanta, Ga. Society Newsletter By now you’ve received your Society newsletter! I hope you enjoy reading it. If you have something to report, please don’t hesitate to

Larry Zellers

contact me. My job is to get the information out to other members, but I am not behind the chair and I don’t know firsthand what’s going on in the industry. Your experience and professional opinion is valuable to me and other Society members. Call or e-mail me any time to contribute information for the newsletter.

Refer a Friend The winner for the most referrals this quarter is Edmarie Masters. She referred 2 people, so far, and will be receiving 20% off her Society dues next year! Way to go Edmarie! By referring your friends and fellow professionals to the Society it gives you more networking power, allows us to negotiate better discounts and hold seminars to educate and support you!

Society Science Fair We are responding to several requests that we have received, to host a Science Fair. We are in the process of bringing together a host of manufacturers for a two day science fair. Some of the products that have been inquired about are Korvue, Lasers, auto braiding machines and hair multiplication. By having a Science Fair we can help you meet the manufacturers, learn new developments and learn how to use each machine or software properly. Please let us know if you are interested in attending this incredible event.

It is an honor to be your Society Director! I hope you have a wonderful Fall. Remember to sit back by the fire, run through the leaves and eat lots of Pumpkin pie! I’ll see you at an upcoming show real soon. Until then…

18 The National Hair Journal Fall 2006

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19 The National Hair Journal Fall 2006

LISTEN UP THE PUBLIC’S MOST TRUSTWORTHY INFORMATION SOURCE

Meet the Experts Hair Transplant Surgeon, Dr. Bernardino Arocha Is Raising Eyebrows Dr Bernardino Arocha is Founder and President of Arocha Hair Restoration in Houston, Texas. He is an avid art collector and painter and attributes much of his success as a cosmetic surgeon to his artistic flair. In this in-depth interview, he explains how a natural hairline is designed using facial geometry and explores the new field of eyebrow transplants; who needs them and how to get them? He is talking with Penny Moss, host of HairLossNewsMakers.com.

NHJ: Dr. Arocha, how did you first become interested in art?

BA: Growing up in New Jersey, I enjoyed visiting the great museums in the New York City area and watching theater in Central Park.

Later in college, I studied art history and I enjoyed painting as a hobby. My favorite medium is oil and canvas. I also do a little bit of collecting.

NHJ: Is this artistic background your secret to designing natural hair transplants?

BA: (Laughs) you’ll have to ask my patients.

I have completed a fellowship in Hair Restoration Surgery which gave me the opportunity to train with some of the leading hair restoration surgeons in the world. From them, I learned many useful principles and techniques. Over the years I have enhanced and refined them and, to return to your question, I like to think my artistic instinct contributes to my hairline designs and helps make my work look natural.

NHJ: You are very involved with temporal peak transplants and creating a “natural hairline.” What are the special things a hair transplant surgeon does to achieve the most “natural hairline”?

BA: When you achieve a natural hairline in a hair transplant, we’re talking it being undetectable from what occurs in nature. This is achieved primarily by the proper placement of the hairline. Leonardo DaVinci determined that the face is divided into thirds. The distance between the chin and the nose should be a third of the left of the total face, as is the distance from the bottom of the nose to the eyebrows and then from the eyebrows to where the hairline should be. Also, you need to create a “transition zone” between the hairless skin at the top of the forehead and the area where hair begins to grow normally. I will be about one half centimeter to one centimeter deep, using single hairs, with the finer hairs being the very first and second rows and then one and two hair follicular units from the mid to the end of that transition zone. This hairline in the transition zone needs to be what I call, “irregularly irregular.” In fact, I find that it can never be too irregular. Dr. Jennifer Martinick in Australia has coined the term “snail tracking across the forehead” to refer to this irregular pattern as opposed to a straight hairline which would look very unnatural.

NHJ: Are there any ethnic differences to consider when designing the hairline?

BA: Yes, there are differences between people from Europe, Africa and people from the Far East. With African Americans for example, hairlines can be a little straighter across, with less of a frontal temporal angle.

NHJ: How can a patient be sure to get exactly what he or she expects?

BA: It’s critical to visit with your prospective surgeon to see as many before and after pictures as necessary to determine if you like their work. You should ask specifically to see pictures of people like yourself so you can determine whether your expectations can be matched by the surgeon’s skill and techniques.

NHJ: When we spoke last week, you told me about eyebrow transplant procedures. Who is a candidate for this technique and what kind

of results can be achieved?

BA: The most common causes of eyebrow loss are repeated plucking of the eyebrows and physical trauma. Many of my patients come to see me as result of accidents, surgical procedures, chemotherapy or burns. All these causes of eyebrow loss are amenable to surgical restoration. Although we can help most people, there are some situations where we powerless to intervene. One prominent example is trichotillomania, an obsessivecompulsive disorder where patients pull hairs out from the scalp and eyebrows, and sometimes even the eyelashes. Regrettably, we can’t help alopecia areata/ totalis patients either. These are genetic auto-immune disorders whereby the body makes antibodies against its own hair follicles.

NHJ: How quickly do you see the benefits of an eyebrow restoration?

BA: It takes about eight months for an eyebrow transplant to completely grow in. Often patients repeat the procedure if they want really thick eyebrows.

NHJ: A lot of people don’t know that eyebrows and eyelashes can be restored. Is this a relatively new surgical procedure?

BA: Yes it is. After I was invited to appear on Fox TV last July, I received a lot of inquiries because most people didn’t know we could do this.

NHJ: What is the difference between an eyebrow and an eyelash restoration?

BA: For the eyebrow, we use very acute angling sites so that the hair comes in almost flush to the skin. We create the sites at an angle of 0-10 degrees in so that the hair doesn’t stick up, and the curvature of the hair needs to bend towards the skin. In an eyelash, the curvature needs to be the opposite; away from the skin, so that the eyelash curves upward.

NHJ: Where do you get these hairs from?

BA: Sometimes we need fine hairs, as in a woman with fine facial hair in the eyebrow area. That type of hair tends to grow around the ear and in the temporal area. Conversely, to find a good match for a man with thick facial hair, we would probably go to the occipital area, in the back of the head, where the hair tends to be thicker.

NHJ: Thank you for telling our readers about this exciting work. If someone wants to learn more about eyebrow and eyelash restoration surgery, how can they contact you?

BA:I can be found on the web at at www.arochahairrestoration.com.

“OOOH….I HEARD IT ON THE WEBVINE!” Now on the web! Earlier this year we unveiled Hair Loss Newsmakers – A topquality web broadcast and podcast program with one single purpose - to deliver reliable, objective information to men and women who are concerned about their hair loss and want an unbiased perspective on the choices available to them. Check us out at www.hairlossnewsmakers.com Hear What the Public Hears - We bring consumers the world’s top experts in hair loss treatment, hair care and hair preservation. Wherever the experts are in the world, we bring them to the microphone to share that knowledge. Listen to the discussions, they may have important information that could help you make the right decision about what’s right for your clients, your family and friends and maybe even yourself and your business. Hear what the public hears; be ready to respond to their inquiries and questions.

Objective - Unlike other formats, this is not a show that focuses on the opinions of the

The National Hair Journal and Hairloss Newsmakers.com will be there!

ISHRS 14th Annual Scientific Meeting, San Diego October 18-22, 2006 This year’s meeting will take place at the historic and beautiful Hotel Del Coronado, where the top physicians and leading researchers in hair restoration from around the world will meet to exchange knowledge and hone their surgical skills.

When I spoke with Paul Rose, MD, JD, President of The International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS), he shared his enthusiasm about the presentations on the agenda. Hot topics this year, he tells me, include Stem Cells, Donor Closure, FUE/FUT, and Dense Packing.

NHJ, and National Hair Broadcasting (www.HairlossNewsmakers.com) will be right there in the thick of things, as the latest advances in hair restoration and research are revealed. Of course, we’ll be interviewing the experts behind the headlines and bringing their knowledge to the public in our weekly webcasts. We also plan to repeat our popular round-table discussion groups, where four or more specialists get together for a debate about a key technology or an item of special concern to the public. Hair Society members will get the highlights in their monthly bulletin. Hair Journal subscribers will get this breaking news in the next issue of the Journal!

Here is a sampling of some of the topics being presented. You’ll know the names well – we’ve often covered these top experts in the National Hair Journal, Hair Hour Radio and now HairlossNewsmakers: Achieving Fine Scars: Harvesting, Paul Rose MD

Donor

Strip

Cell Therapy & Biotechnology, Bessam Farjo, MD

ABOUT US The National Hair Journal is part of The National Hair Group, a business consortium committed to the development of the hair-management industry. The National Hair Group provides information services via The National Hair Journal, a business newspaper. The National Hair Society is an educational, marketing and networking, professional support organization. The Group also provides consumer education via National Hair Broadcasting, a weekly broadcast show.

NATIONAL HAIR JOURNAL Mission - To provide hair-management professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will help them make better business decisions and provide superior service to their patients and clients.

Editor In Chief Christopher Webb cwebb@nationalhairjournal.com

Creative Director Avi Roth aroth@nationalhairjournal.com

Contributing Correspondents Educational & Technical Isaac Brakha James Britt Bobbi Russell James Toscano Women & Fashion Marilyn Dodds Medical Alan Bauman MD Shelly Friedman DO

NATIONAL HAIR BROADCASTING Mission - To deliver reliable, objective information to men and women who are concerned about their hair loss and want an unbiased perspective on the choices available to them.

Division Director Penny Moss pmoss@nationalhairjournal.com

Production Director Mike Ferreri mike@mfaudio.net

Sound Engineer Dan Feely dan@danfeely.com

Emergency Situations in Hair Transplant Settings, Carlos Puig DO The Physician as an Artist, Dow Stough, MD Hair Loss Therapy: Are Lasers a Light at the end of the Tunnel, Matt Leavitt, DO Finesteride & Minoxidil Update, Ken Washenik, MD, PhD

NATIONAL HAIR SOCIETY Mission - The Hair Society was created at the request of forward-looking hair-management specialists seeking educational and marketing support to grow their business. It connects manufacturers, distributors, retail salons and medical clinics and provides an ongoing network for crossmarketing and dialogue.

Membership Director

Recreating the Hairline & Crown: How to do it, Ronald Shapiro MD

Kristie Handzlik kristieh@nationalhairjournal.com

New Advances on Horizon: Basic Science & Biotechnology, Jerry Cooley MD

NE Regional Director

Difficult Cases for HRS, How to manage frequent & unusual complications Tony Mangubat MD

CA Regional Director

FUE Updates: Jim Harris MD For more information visit www.ISHRS.org

hosts; it is a conduit for putting the public in contact with the top people in the field.

It is our goal to provide information with sufficient authority and sincerity that people who were hesitating to make a hair loss decision will now feel confident about moving ahead. Our sole mission is to educate the consumer about the reasons for — and the solutions to — hair loss. Check us out at www.hairlossnewsmakers.com Everything’s Included - We review all the choices including: surgical hair restoration, medical hair re-growth, cosmetic hair thickeners and camouflage, low level laser light therapy and non-surgical hair replacement systems. We do it without bias and without any special interest. Everyone featured on Hairlossnewsmakers.com appears by invitation only, and they contribute their knowledge and insights free of charge.

Education - Hair Loss Newsmakers educates listeners about advances in hair loss solutions and connects them with the recognized authorities in hair loss treatment, hair care and hair preservation. Newsmakers attends the medical conferences and hair replacement seminars to find out what’s new and bring the experts into the studio to share their experience and their insights.

And, so yes, please check us out at www.hairlossnewsmakers.com

Catherine Ingoglia

Edmarie Masters

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LEGAL NOTICE Notice: The National Hair Journal, Issue number 38 Copyright ©2006. All rights reserved.

While great care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information in The National Hair Journal, the publisher does not assume liability for decisions based upon it. Readers are advised to seek further independent advice. All statements, including product claims, are those of the person or persons making the statements or claims. The publisher does not adopt any such statement or claim as its own, and any such statement or claim does not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. The National Hair Journal accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All materials in this issue are the property of this publication and nothing shown may be reproduced in any form without obtaining the permission of the publisher and/or any other persons or company who may have copyright ownership. Requests should be addressed to: Publisher, National Hair Journal, 39252 Winchester Rd., # 107-383, Murrieta, CA 92563.

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20 The National Hair Journal Fall 2006

The National Hair Journal is published Quarterly.Copyright Š 2006. Single copies of most past issues of The National Hair Journal are available prepaid at $10.00 per copy. Special issues are more.The National Hair Journal serves primarily the hair replacement , hair restoration and personal enhancement industries.It sponsors conferences and trade events and produces analysis & marketing research on the hair replacement and restoration industries.Postmaster: Please send address changes to: The National Hair Journal, LLC 39252 Winchester Rd., #107-383, Murrieta, CA 92563