4 The National Hair Journal Winter 2005
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Eyelashes - The Final Frontier - Alopecia enhancement procedure for women who is not selective when it strikes. Victims can wish to leave nothing to chance - or people lose hair anywhere on their bodies, includlike alopecia victims with special needs. ing their eyebrows and eyelashes. Some Recently, a California company, Jim Marini Skin Research, launched a new product, people lose all their hair including the hair in the nose and ears. This is called alopecia “Age Intervention Eyelash,” to address thintotalis. The most visible hair loss is the thick ning and missing eyelashes. Marini, a prodabundant hair on the top of the head and this uct researcher for over 30 years, developed can be devastating, especially in today’s this product to answer a very personal issue: Marini’s own struggle with alopecia areata. society where strong shiny hair is taken to Marilyn Dodds imply good health and attractiveness. “Eyelash extensions were not an option Modern hair additions and extensions can hide or cambecause there wasn’t hair to affix the glue for the extension.” Alopecia areata affects an estimated 4 million ouflage most hair loss, and some of the new wig designs are very sophisticated, incorporating the latest styles Americans of both sexes and of all ages and ethnic backgrounds. While scientists do not know why this and fashions. But for people who have lost their eyeimmune disease happens, the incidence of alopecia brows and eyelashes, there have been few solutions. A handful of cosmetic surgeons offer eyebrow and even appears to be on the rise. Having successfully develop eyelash transplants. This is a delicate procedure requirsolutions for hair loss on the head, isn’t it time for proing a high degree of professional skill, but for those forfessionals now to examine the last frontier; eyebrow and eyelash loss? tunate enough to be able to afford it, the results can be impressive. For others, a cosmetic solution is often the only answer. Permanent makeup has been gaining in Until next time, Marilyn D. popularity and is now entering the mainstream as an
A Time for New Beginnings By Josef Witnik Usually, when I sit down and start typing, ideas and hair trends just flow out of me. But for some reason, this Spring my thoughts are going in a different direction. You already know that my family is deeply involved in hair. You could say that my background in hair is deep-rooted (forgive the pun), having a granddad, father, sister, sisterin-law and a beautiful wife all in the industry. That’s one of the reasons I am where I am today. But there’s another reason too; and that’s what I want to write about today. It has to do with fashion. I am the founder and owner of a successful salon and day spa, and I recently opened an academy for cosmetology and aesthetics where I try to pass on some of my experience as in the hair replacement world. It has been an awesome experience. But as I meet salon owners and stylists, I am discovering an unmet need; a need for fashion-awareness training that applies to virtually all the hair replacement studios I come into contact with. As I leave the stage at industry trade shows, I am constantly approached by men and women with smiling eyes and one important question - how they can learn, and then teach their staff, the latest trends in hair styling they’ve just seen demonstrated on stage. I take their concern very seriously, since I come from a world where if you don’t know what is in style, you don’t have the skills to do your job. That’s why I’m writing this article. In our business, you have to stay current. If you don’t, you’re going backwards. Have you noticed a small decrease in your clientele lately? Do you see more of your stylists sitting around or finding excuses to leave early? What about the new stylists who simply wait for someone to deliver a new group of “guests?” I know that it’s hard to find new stylists, but
you can’t settle for second best either. If you are not pro-active, your clients will have little reason to trust you with something as valuable as their personal image. As stylists and owners, we must be aware that someone who wears hair is more sensitive to fashion trends than a client who takes his hair for granted. Are you and your staff doing your job by keeping your clients up to date and fashionable? If not, you’ve got a problem and it won’t be long before it shows up in your appointment book. Your cosmetology or barbering license makes you a “practitioner,” the coolest position on earth! You can change the way people look and make their lives so much better. This means you must consult with them and understand their lifestyle and their aspirations. It’s all about expectations. Your job is to deliver the dream. It includes color, texture, density, movement, even the products they take home with them. There’s no such thing as half a dream; you’ve got to deliver the whole package. That’s why they pre-book with anticipation and pay you joyfully when they look their best and feel like a million dollars. But remember fashions change. Every six months, new looks appear in women’s magazines, in the movies and in all the fashion stores. Follow the trends, make notes, clip pictures, go to hair shows… be aware. Hair is part of the fashion world and your clients expect you to take them there. Remember, you’re only as good as your last appointment! What’s the first thing you notice about a person? If you’re like most people, it’s their hair. Your guests know that too. Hollywood puts fashion in their faces, showing them what is hot right now! If you cannot keep up with the trends, there’s someone just round the corner who will do that for you. So let’s get fashion savvy right now and keep our clients happy while we still have them! Let’s take an existing client who has been with you for years. He spends the same money year after year replacing his hair system that always looks the same year in and year out. He thinks he is saving money by being conservative, and he is certainly not taking any risks with his appearance. But that’s not what hair is all about. It’s time to revisit your client with a new consultation and tell him how styles are changing and how it feels to
be in the trend. Your clients depend upon you to stay up-to-date. You are their fashion advisor! Think what a difference you could make in someone’s life if you bring them the information and the skills to look their absolute best.
Ethnic Hair Legend Passes the Torch
I’m not just spouting off about what’s right for other people. I’m a dude wearing hair too, and I change my style every time I order a new hair system. So don’t tell me that people don’t want change. If things aren’t changing in your salon, it’s probably you who’s too comfortable in your old routine, not your clients. I challenge you to do better! And I’m going to be there to help you. I want to make 2006 the year of fashion! I’m going to involve myself in new trends in cutting, coloring and anything else that will make hair more exciting and adventurous. I will share all my techniques in special classes that will be coming up soon. In the meantime, stay in touch and let me know if you are interested in some awesome training that could inspire you and give you a whole new way of thinking outside the box.
By Audrey Hinrichs
Spring is here, and it’s time for new beginnings.
Ethnic Hair’s Big Future - Big business has begun to recognize the rapidly expanding ethnic hair care market. Projected shifts in the country’s population in the next twenty years indicate that this segment is destined to become a dominant part of the industry. The style and fashion demonstrated by people of color is becoming increasingly visible to the general public. In television, movies and print media, people of color are emerging as a prominent and trend-setting part of the American media landscape. Although many cosmetologists now clamor to serve the ethnic customer, it is the African-American entrepreneurs who remain the pioneers of hair replacement solutions for people of color. It is from their rich history and hard won skills that today’s hair care practitioners must draw their inspiration.
Please e-mail me anytime I welcome your comments and requests.
REMEMBERING James Beautiful Young James Beautiful Young certainly lived up to his name, becoming a pioneer in ethnic hair-care products. James was a native of Canton Mississippi, but he moved out West where his daughter, Carolyn Young told the Journal his Y & W line became the first ethnic hair-care business in California, with stores in Sacramento, San Francisco and Oakland as well as Nevada. An ambitious entrepreneur, James Young distributed his products to state prisons, mom and pop stores, Long’s drugs and supermarket chains such as Raileys and Safeway. The industry lost James December of 05, but his contribution will be remembered long into the future. Fashion Editor Marilyn Dodds
Mrs. Georgia Mae Norris-Williams
One of America’s Most Exceptional Hair-Weave Technicians - Mrs. Georgia Mae Norris-Williams is an author, instructor, technical expert and a trailblazer in her profession. While she credits technology for many of the advances in hair restoration, she is committed to professional excellence through education. Georgia is a living example. She received her license in cosmetology from the Crescent Institute of Austin, Texas in 1944 and it wasn’t long before she enrolled in a course of advanced hair styling studies at Truman’s Beauty College of Waco, Texas. To share that knowledge and develop the skills of others, she *
5 The National Hair Journal Spring 2006
returned to the Crescent Institute to receive a cosmetology instructor’s license. In 1966, she received her Bachelor’s Degree in Cosmetology after attending classes at the National Cosmetology Convention in Oklahoma City. The Christina Method - The most significant milestone in Mrs. NorrisWilliams’ career came when she received her license to practice the “Christina” method of hair weaving in 1964. The Christina method, often referred to as the “Track and sew” method, was founded by the late Christina Williams. The technique remains the only patented weaving process that is healthy for long-term wear. The Norris-Hair Method - As she practiced the Christina method, Mrs. Norris-Williams continued to research other advanced techniques. She incorporated the best of these custom hair weaving methods into her own proprietary procedure now known as, The Norris-Hair Method. Her contribution to educating other stylists in advanced styling and hair weaving at Prairie View A&M University for over 14 years led to her recognition at the Independent International Hair Weavers Convention at Chicago in 1975, where she won first place for performing, “The neatest and most natural hair weave in the world.”
More Hair “In a Flash” Applying additional hair without cutting down, weaving or micro-linking Non-Surgical Natural Transdermal Reconstruction (NS-NTR) technology for people suffering from advanced male and female pattern hair loss. Since few hair care professionals have the experience to perform prosthesis on ethnic hair, Spectrum HPG also offers advanced training combining prosthesis with proper cutting techniques, coloring, bone structure, profile assessment and styling to create a natural look with true style. No Alterations Are Made To The Client’s Current Hair - Spectrum HPG is sensitive to their client’s concerns. That is why their hair care professionals have developed procedures that are unique in the fact that no alterations are made to the client’s current hair. The professionals at Spectrum have developed an innovative solution which has helped to ease the client’s anxiety about the removal of his or her existing hair; instead the client’s hair is used to create a more natural, realistic hairline.
By Bobbi Russell Orlando, 03/06 - February was education time in Florida. I attended the New Image Conference in Ft. Lauderdale and the On-Rite Conference in Orlando. I sat in class after class those two weeks, trying to pick-up more information to grow with. I did in fact see a lot of good ideas and was thrilled to have gone to both events. I have found that other hair professionals, and the knowledge obtained from just talking to them, seems to be the most valuable part of all. Our industry is so small we need to do everything within our power to stay united. I also learned something about myself during this time. I am a little old fashioned when it comes to helping women with hair loss. Let me explain. I come from a women’s world. I own
women I meet want to keep their hair. You and I know they don’t physically need it; in fact we can make it look better if they do give it up. The reality is that they DO need it, emotionally. It emotionally hurts them to cut it down before they are ready. I would like to share a product with you; something that I like to use. It allows you to apply additional hair without cutting down, weaving or micro linking, while allowing your client to retain all of her natural hair. Plus it is relatively quick. The name of this product is Flash Track. It is a one sided tape that comes in colors to match the hair you are working on. This technique has been really great for me. It doesn’t work for everyone because it is sensitive to really oily hair. Keep in mind that I’m in Florida where humidity rages, and I still have great results. - First cleanse the hair with a deep cleansing shampoo to remove all oils and build-up on hair and scalp. - Mark your clients scalp with a scalp marker or pencil with your template or hair enhancement. - Section away the hair that is directly above your track line. - Section out a very thin slice of hair directly below your track line and put a clip under the section. This step is done so the hair can be picked up easily. - Apply your first piece of tape to your part line sticky side up. Try to avoid touching the tape as much as possible. I like to use a metal tip comb to control the tape.
Education Available - Pioneer Mrs. Norris-Williams and Spectrum HPG offer classes in hair enhancement techniques and modern solutions in trichology. They are available in individual and group sessions as well as in-salon sessions.
Ms. Tamarah Woodard
Passing the Torch - Since the late 80’s, Mrs. Norris-Williams has been mentoring one of her star pupils, Ms. Tamarah Woodard. They share a concern that many of the applications commonly used for hair weaving are actually causing additional damage to the client’s hair and scalp. According to Ms. NorrisWilliams, “Many of today’s stylists don’t understand how much they are damaging their customers’ hair and scalp with improperly installed weaves and hair restoration systems. This damage often comes to the surface years down the line. I enjoy installing hair weaves more than I enjoy eating, but, I want to make sure that it is done right.” Mrs. Norris-Williams continues her own business, Georgia’s Beauty Salon and Hair Weaving Center and her reputation still attracts customers from all over the country. Now approaching eighty years of age, Georgia Norris-Williams is passing on her legacy to Tamarah Woodard. Spectrum Hair Prosthesis Group Tamarah Woodard is the founder of the Spectrum Hair Prosthesis Group, where Mrs. Norris-Williams now serves as a member of the company’s advisory board. To address specific hair loss conditions, Spectrum HPG has developed several innovative products, including The Natural Soft Prosthesis for Alopecia totalis and universalis, Spectress II Medical Prosthesis, the first chemotherapy radiation specific prosthesis and
Tamarah Woodard is a member of The National Hair Society and invites other members to network with her. To contact Mrs. Norris-Williams or to inquire about the Spectrum Hair Prosthesis Institute email Tamarah at spectrumhgrp@aol.com or call 618.288.3219. For more information about Spectrum HPG visit www.spectrum-hpg.com.
Mrs. Womack was referred to our facility due to improper application of chemical services, as well as improper hair additions from her previous stylist. Spectrum HPG recommended NS-NTR Prosthesis.
an all-women’s hair additions studio, my staff is all female, I am the oldest of three daughters, I have four daughters, and I have one sweet female dog. My poor husband!!! My point is, I think I really understand women. Mrs. Brewster, a member of the Spectrum family, was experiencing normal hair thinning. Our recommendation was the Natural Soft Prosthesis.
Mrs. Madison was referred to our facility from her medical doctor due to various unsuccessful treatments for alopecia areata. Our solution to restoring her natural hair pattern is the Spectress II, medical prosthesis.
When I consult with women for the first time about their hair loss, I really am touched by their pain. I have a hard time following the rules of high-pressure sales tactics to influence them to buy hair. Instead, I like to listen to them, find out what their needs are, and let them tell me how they want more hair. I also do a lot of hair extensions, and I attract a lot of women who want more hair. Not all of the women who come in for extensions are candidates for extensions. A lot of them have hair loss issues. The problem is not all of them know it, or are willing to admit it. Please move very gently with these women. The realization that you are losing your hair is a process. Trust needs to be built. I know the latest techniques for women involve “cutting the hair down” and for some women this is the right solution, but it is not the solution for all women. Most of the
- Keep the tape firmly in place and fold your client’s natural hair onto the tape. - Remove any excess hair that did not stick and keep your work area extremely clean from stray hair. - Apply the second piece of tape sticky side down on top of your first piece of tape. Press firmly to secure a correct attachment. - Apply liquid tape to the second piece of tape if the client is oily. - Continue this process until your entire track is complete. - Use a very fine curved needle with a very fine line thread to attach your enhancement. Make sure to thread through both layers of the tape or it will pull apart. - Cut and style as normal. - To remove use a 99% alcohol solution to separate tape. If liquid tape is used, orange oil based solvent works great. A few helpful hints: - Always use a small diameter needle. - Thicker needles are hard to work with. - Advise clients not to use really hot water.
6 The National Hair Journal Spring 2006
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipisicing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum.. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipisicing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipisicing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum.. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipisicing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum..Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet,
consectetur adipisicing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum.. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipisicing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum.. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipisicing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum..Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipisicing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non rum.. voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat rum..
7 The National Hair Journal Spring 2006
Don’t Neglect The Details By James (The General) Toscano 2006 - Another year. It seems like it was only yesterday that we were waiting for the new millennium. But here we are in another year of new products and new innovations… but we still have some of the same old problems. Everyone is so busy with their business that at times, the “little” things take a back burner to more important issues. If not attended to, these little issues can become big issues. In this article, I’d like to give you some tips that, hopefully, will save you time and money. I had a call recently from a friend who was having a problem matching a hair system to his client’s hair. He’d match the hair swatch on his color ring to the client’s hair, order a hair system, and when it came in, the color was off. Because he was unable to cut in the hair system that day, he almost lost a client. After talking for a few minutes, I asked him where he kept his color ring. He replied that it was on a hook on the wall in his styling room. I also asked him how old his color ring was. He said he couldn’t remember when he purchased it; it may have been several years ago. I told him his color ring was the problem. His color ring was actually preventing him from making a perfect color match. The swatches on the color ring are human hair. When left out in the open, these swatches will oxidize, causing a discrepancy in the color match. Color rings should be kept out of the light in an enclosed area, such as a drawer. I also keep mine in a Ziploc bag and close the bag at the end of the day. You should replace your color ring once or twice a year to make sure the color stays true. Your lighting may also be a factor when
matching or coloring a hair system. Some bulbs, though very bright, give off a yellow cast which can give you an untrue color match. I use SP40 bulbs. They give me “daylight” color in my Jim Toscano styling room. The color of your walls can also be a deciding factor. Even though it may not seem like it, your designer color reflects off the walls and can give your client’s hair a different cast. Though white is such a plain color and most people want to decorate and add color to their salons, white should always be considered when decorating your styling room. I had a client who was having a problem with the color fading on his own hair, which in turn led to his hair system not matching. The first question I asked was, “Are you using the professional products I recommended?” He told me he had used them, but had run out and had bought some products at his local pharmacy. He said they seemed the same as the products I had recommended. I explained (again) that professional products are normally formulated to prevent color fading and that these are the only products we recommend for our clients and their hair systems. Another thing; check the professional products that you recommend to your soft-bonded clients. Some products contain a lot of oils, which make the hair look great, but break down the bond faster. Does everyone have MSD Sheets in their salons? You need to have one for each adhesive you use. The sheet is invaluable in checking the chemical make-up of your adhesives. If you’re not familiar with the ingredients, check them on the Internet. Make sure you aren’t using an adhesive with carcinogens in it. I know of someone who was recently contacted by a physician because a mutual client of theirs was ill and the doctor was exhausting every possible avenue to determine the cause of his
illness. Thankfully, it wasn’t any component in the adhesive, but, this situation could happen to anyone in the hair replacement industry. Be prepared. If you don’t have an MSD Sheet for the adhesives you use, call your distributor or the adhesive manufacturer to obtain one. If they don’t have one available or tell you they’ll send you one, but you never receive it, STOP USING THE PRODUCT! While there may be nothing wrong with the product, who wants to take a chance with a client’s health, your health, your technician’s health, or your reputation? Is anyone having a problem with hair loss in their client’s hair system? Have you considered that it could be the brush that your client is using instead of a “bad” hair system? I make sure that all my clients, especially a first-time wearer, are using the correct brush for the type of style they want to achieve. Normally, I give my client the type of brush I want them to use. These brushes have bristles that are flexible and have movement so that the hair isn’t torn out of the base of the system. Have you ever had a problem with the trails on the sides of the client’s system? So many times we blame it on the ventilation of the hair system, when in reality the wrong brush or cutting/styling technique has been used. If your client is blow drying his/her hair, are you educating him/her on the proper techniques to achieve the style they like? Watch for my next article on the correct styling techniques to use on a hair system. I’ll give more detailed instructions in that article. Are there any other issues that you would like information or help on? Let me know. You can contact me by email at jamestoscano@msncom. I’d love to hear from you. PERFECT ISN’T PERFECT UNLESS IT’S PERFECT! Until next time....
FLASH REPORT Dermal Loc is a new and technically advanced full-head bonding adhesive designed specifically for poly units. Many oily and very active clients who previously experienced bonding difficulties can now achieve a safe, secure attachment. Professional Hair Labs Inc., in its continuing efforts to provide safe and easy to use products to the hair replacement industry, is happy to make this fantastic waterbased adhesive available to all studios
Dermal Mud is a wonderful new mask that will detoxify the scalp as it prepares the skin for the best possible hold. Technicians like the ease of application and fast drying time. Clients love the way it makes their scalp feel, and many oilyskin clients like the extra time they get from their bonding. This is another safe and effective product from Professional Hair Labs Inc.
“Nothing Recedes Like Success” Walter Winchell
Seems you can have fame… or hair. But it’s not just about success. In a recent survey, more men said they would prefer to be impotent than to lose their hair!
15 The National Hair Journal Spring 2006
RL: That is true. As physicians, we can offer treatments we feel will medically benefit our patients. NHJ: Are there any other new techniques or procedure just over the horizon? RL: Of course everyone is talking about the cloning of hair follicles. This research is underway as we speak in various centers throughout the world. As of this moment in time, they are not yet there. It’s a funny thing, 20 years ago; when I first started in hair transplantation, people were talking about hair cloning in 1986, but among ourselves we always said that it would be ten more years before it really happened. Now we’re 20 years down the road and still we don’t have hair cloning! I sincerely believe it is coming, and we’re closer than ever before. I just don’t know HOW close. NHJ: Will hair multiplication replace hair restoration surgery as we know it today, or will it become a complementary technique? RL: I think it will be another option for patients. I don’t believe it will be a first line treatment for people. One of the biggest concerns that I have is the aesthetic results. Hair follicles we transplant today are placed in a particular angulation and a particular direction so that when the hairs begin to grow, they will have an aesthetically pleasing result. I don’t see how that hair multiplication can give the same aesthetic control. NHJ: So you may get the density, but you won’t have the ability to angle or cosmetically arrange the hairs? RL: That’s right. As a follow-up procedure it can augment hair that’s already there. But it’s not yet ready for the most visible areas like the front hairline. Who knows what the future will hold. We may have something that will provide excellent angulation and direction, but for now I think this is the biggest challenge we’re facing. NHJ: What should a hair consultant tell his patient? Wait or proceed with one of the solutions already available today? RL: I think it’s imperative that the patient who’s beginning to lose his or her hair begin treatment immediately. There’s no reason to wait for a technique that’s not currently available - and one that I feel will not be available for a number of years. I tell people to treat their hairloss right away if it’s bothering them. Treat it sooner rather than later, and enjoy the results today. Medical developments often take longer than expected. Someone losing their hair rapidly could be bald by the time this technology comes available. NHJ: Let’s go back to the beginning of this interview. You have been practicing hair restoration surgery for 20 years. What extra wisdom and technique does a doctor with 20 years experience bring that somebody new to the field has not yet acquired. RL: Perspective. An experienced doctor brings perspective. The field has changed dramatically over the years. There are exciting new techniques and then there are techniques that were promising at one time but were found to have drawbacks. Larger grafts were once admired for the density they provided, but over time the aesthetic result was not so wonderful. Another issue is whether or not a doctor performs the procedure as part of a much larger practice, or does he do it exclusively? NHJ: What about patient expectations? Doesn’t it take a lot of experience to be able to explain to a patient in language they understand what he or she can realistically expect? RL: I take this very seriously. Over the years there have been physicians in all specialties, not just hair restoration surgery, who haven’t been particularly realistic with patients. One of the things that I pride myself on is being honest to a fault. In fact, I often tell a patient that they may not be ready right now to consider hair restoration surgery. I do this every week in my practice. I turn people away. An important thing that patients have to realize is that just because hair loss bothers them at that
moment, they may not need something as invasive as surgery. They may just need infrared light or Propecia or Rogaine therapies. The experienced doctor, can weigh the options. NHJ: By definition, an older physician has likely had experience with the earlier transplant techniques. How can he or she help patients bring their appearance up to today’s standards? RL: People who had ‘plugs’ back in the 70’s and 80’s may be self conscious now that they’ve lost more hair. The old grafts are more visible and not natural looking. An experienced doctor surgery can usually correct this. Since he may have carried out this type of procedure in the past, he is the best person to bring it up to par. NHJ: Dr. Leonard, you served as President of the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery. During that stewardship, was there one achievement you were particularly proud of? RL: I feel proud to about bringing ethics out as an important topic. I have always been on the bylaws and ethics committee of the International Society and as president I found it to very important to make sure our members were keeping high ethical standards. The other thing I’m very proud about of is initiating a public relations program within the Society. One of the biggest problems with hair restoration surgery is that even today in 2006; people still don’t realize how good we actually are. NHJ: Dr. Leonard, 20 years ago you had the good fortune to have somebody take you under their wing and pass on their knowledge. Is this something that you would like to continue in order to help the next generation of hair restoration surgeons? RL: Yes I would very much like to do that. I would like to bring on a protégé and teach him or her ethical and honest approach to treating a patient with male or female pattern hair loss. NHJ: In addition to surgical technique, are there human qualities that you’ve acquired over the years that you would like to pass on? RL: The golden rule is to treat others as you would like to be treated yourself. Being able to understand the psychological pain that is associated with hair loss is the foundation of my approach with a patient. I’ve had women come into my office after seeing a family physician or dermatologist who has been very insensitive. Sometimes they say things like, “What are you worrying about, hair loss is a normal thing” or, “Why don’t you take up a hobby so you won’t think about your hair loss so much?” Not only is that insensitive, it’s cruel. NHJ: It has always struck The Journal as untenable that women suffering hair loss because of chemotherapy should be denied any insurance reimbursement for a wig or prosthetic device. They are emotionally devastated and scared of losing their health and losing their self esteem. And insurance companies claim this is a “cosmetic” luxury! Who’s kidding whom? RL: I agree with you whole-heartedly. I have had phone calls from patients who are considering chemotherapy and they’re more worried about their hair than their breast cancer. There has to be a way to refer them to somebody who will recommend the right non-surgical hair addition with honesty and with compassion. Insurance companies must understand that this is not a frivolous indulgence; it is a vital part of a woman’s mental health. NHJ: 20 years ago, who would have thought that you become the Medical Director of a group of 7 leading-edge clinics and an educator and authority just like your mentor? It’s been quite a career path, hasn’t it? RL: I am proud to be a part of a profession that I love so much. I feel fortunate to be among colleagues who are compassionate about treating patients with hairloss… and who share my excitement about the future. NHJ
Bosley Opens New San Francisco Office San Francisco, 12/06 – Bosley hosted a special open house in San Francisco on December 6th at their new location at 50 Francisco Street, Suite 440, San Francisco. The new facility doubles the size of the old location that was opened more than 20 years ago. The Francisco Street office becomes the newest, most state-of-the art facility in the
The state of the art procedure room country for hair restoration. Gensler International created a deluxe interior design that displays a superb coupling of beauty and comfort in a light-filled contemporary ambience. John Ohanesian, President and Chief Executive Officer, and Ken Washenik, M.D., Ph.D. greeted guests during the festive celebration party. Dr. Terence Aragoni, Bosley’s San Francisco physician, is proud of the new facility that will allow his team to offer patients in the Bay area the best possible medical care.
Dr. Aragoni and Dr. Washenik celebrate opening of new office with staff
Medical assistants in the new procedure room
A Nutritionist Discusses Diet and Hair Loss By Tony Longo
Portland, OR. Jan 06 – These days, everyone wants to be slim. But when you go too far, it can be your hair that pays the price. Although female pattern hair loss is the most commonly encountered condition, thin hair can also be caused by an inadequate diet - specifically too little protein over a prolonged period of time. This is seen in certain eating disorders and some acute and chronic illnesses that limit a person's ability to get adequate nutrition. To conserve protein, the body will stop producing hair and limit the hair production process, causing people to lose hair in large clumps. Other factors can play a role as well, including chemotherapy,
stress, and of course hormonal changes. Alopecia areata on the other hand is believed to be an autoimmune disease where the body's own immune system attacks the hair follicles (other wellknown autoimmune diseases include lupus, rheumatoid arthritis, and type 1 diabetes). Remedial therapies may include immunosuppressive drugs (such as corticosteroids). In a clinical setting, I tell patients with an autoimmune disease not to eat large amounts of food or supplements that have even mild immunityenhancing properties, such as Echinacea. Stimulating the immune system in these patients only enhances its ability to attack the body. Do we have a solution for this frustrating medical condition? Sadly we do not. As far as nutritional treatments or remedies for alopecia areata and other forms of autoimmune alopecia, there are none that we know of yet. Tony Longo, R.D. is a clinical dietitian and nutritionist for The Providence Hospital System, Portland Oregon.
17 The National Hair Journal Spring 2006
Glam” with Shannon Sorbara, Matthew LaBanca, Josif Wittnik, Phil Fennell and the VR Technical Team. Lance Centofanti then took to the stage to present the latest advances in the Virtuesse line and Marilyn Dodds talked
Everything’s Bigger in Texas! Virtual Reality Fits Right In Lance, “The Energizer” Centofanti was fully charged to greet Virtual Reality associates in Dallas for their annual “Leadership Conference.” Standing alongside him was
For Women Who’ve Got a Life IHI Introduces Amy’s Presence
industry’s new trends and techniques. One of their most successful programs is “Virtual Reality Live” where a top-level styling “commando” team visits a local studio for
Chanhassen, MN. 02/060 – You’ve seen her on TV (Love of Life, The Young and the Restless, General Hospital). Now she is launching a line of contemporary wigs for ‘Women who’ve got a life!” Her name is
L to R: Whitney Mallice and Adrienne Biello (VR Live National Design Team member), and April Ann Barbarino.
(L to R) Bob Goluzny, Michael Napolitano, Lance Centofanti, and Verg Christoffels take 5…
CEO Michael Napolitano from the company’s corporate offices, and from American Hairlines’ team, the invaluable Julia Villaoduna and Jesse Fuentes, plus the famous VR Live Design Team, drawn from top studios around the country. Of course,
one or two days to deliver new impetus to client service plans and provide new sales support. The results have been remarkable. Four weeks into 2006, they had already conducted “VR Lives” in three different parts of
about hair loss from a woman’s perspective and explained how Virtuesse could restore self confidence and beauty in the lives of women “in need” as well as women who just want to look glamorous. Film director, Armand Mastrionni, himself a fan of Virtual Reality, asked the audience if their clients were “Camera ready” and Linda Arnold, Vice-President, Union 706 and hair and make-up advisor to the stars, told listeners that VR was, “The Actor’s Choice.” If it sound like VR was all about fashion, Amy Gibson shares her special story
Amy Gibson and she has been working hand in hand with International Hair Goods to create “Amy’s Presence™,” a wig collection for the way women live today. There may be all manner of women’s wigs on the market, but Amy told The Journal that they have not kept up with the modern lifestyle. That’s why she has created a “Sport System,” appropriately called the “Amy,” that can be worn with confidence in demanding situations, even water sports. And then there is “Kassia,” the “Intimacy System” for private moments when style and peace of mind are most important.
Lance with VR Live Technical Director, Shannon Sorbora
there were many other contributors to this high-energy meeting, and you may recognize some of them in the accompanying pictures. Virtual Reality is a highly selective group of retailers who have pioneered many of the
Amy was in IHI’s Chanhassen training center to present her new collection to parThe talent behind the VR Fashion Show
Tom Magliaro’s Hair Additions team with VR stylist
A “creative” huddle – Josif Wittnik, Chris Licursi, Julia Villaorduna, Lance Centofanti and Tuck Liskay
the country, generating local media exposure, getting screen credits for hair supplied to a movie, securing live interviews on local news shows – and of course, generating incremental dollars everywhere they went. They currently have 15 more “VR Lives” booked, one involving “makeovers” on approximately 50 clients which is projected to bring in $100,000 additional revenue over 3 days. But back to the conference.
Scott & Carolyn Scharg from Linq Hair Care.
Things got off to a roaring start at 8:00am on Sunday morning when Phil Fennell opened with a presentation called “Celebration of Excellence - Ready for Greatness” …which seemed to cover all the bases. It was followed by a fashion show, “Putting on the
that’s only half true. Behind the scenes, in special “Knowledge Labs” educators were instructing people in ways to create and maintain those glamorous styles. Special classes included the Cutting Lab, Color Lab, Bonding Lab, Style Lab and the Upgrade Lab. In the words of president, CEO, Michael Napolitano, the future belongs to those who can combine sophisticated technology with fashion, adding that, “We will take you there!”
Marketing guru, Neil Greenberg w/women’s hair loss expert, Marilyn Dodds
Michael Diebold shares styling tips
ticipants in the first Certification Class for exclusive studios of “Amy’s Presence.” She told them how she began to lose her own hair at the height of her acting career due to alopecia areata and how she feared for her future. With no one to talk to, and nowhere to turn for understanding and advice, she kept her secret to herself and began a painstaking quest for solutions. This led her to IHI, an Aderans subsidiary that markets the patent-protected manmade hair filament, Cyberhair®. In collaboration with their researchers and technicians, Amy crafted her new collections from Cyberhair, human and synthetic hair. They incorporate new features like eyeglass loops and scarf loops that have not been offered before in a lady’s wig, as well
19 The National Hair Journal Spring 2006
IT’S ABOUT TIME! Orlando 02/06 – On Rite’s 2006 Conference took place the weekend of February 26th – 27th at the luxurious Hilton Hotel Walt Disney Resort. The theme was, “ M o v i n g Forward,” and in keeping with this fresh approach, several talented new educators were invited to join perennial crowd-pleasers like Gilberto Febles from Miami. Californian Louticia Grier shared her expertise in hair replacement solutions for African-Americans while newcomers, Joe Lore and Baha Alwardi covered the field of
Award’ and member of the National Speakers Association Hall of Fame. With 20 years in the hair industry herself, Patricia encouraged everyone to “Embrace the On Rite o p p o r t u n i t y,” reminding them that “Opportunity does not knock once; it’s sitting in your chair!” Owner/Managers had an opportunity to attend her special ticket workshop later.
. . . sa y s O n Rite
On Rite Sales Director Ron Willoughby described the new products unveiled at the show:
Andy Wright, president of On Rite, starts off the weekend with a parody of the winter Olympics. Looks like he went for the gold!
of links in a choice of five colors. A valuable alternative to adhesive or heat for clients with fragile hair or scalp conditions. Comes in a kit with special tool. Leimo: Hand-held laser therapy coupled with a full line of scalp therapy products called ReGen. This sharp looking product has two banks of LEDs (light emitting diodes) surrounding a single central laser light source. Used in conjunction with their ReGen wet goods, results are very encouraging and have been shown to create a healthy scalp environment. However, David was
careful to explain that the company is not allowed to claim that their hand held laser product regrows hair.But it wasn’t all serious tech-
nology! The “Edge Team” entertained the lunch crowd with an upbeat hip-hop skit. The team cut and styled four brave models on stage, showing us all their very best (and worst) moves! And when the sun went down, Walt Disney Pleasure Island drew the hearty out to party! We may still be trapped in “Winter time,” but for one intense, educational weekend it was On Rite time. As David Schwartz, Chief Operating Officer said, “Now’s the time to spring forward!” Missed one of the classes or presentations? Check out On Rite’s class schedule: Louticia Grier will at the Academy in April.
Educator, Gilbert “Gilberto” Febles, taught a class called, “Styling techniques for today’s women.” Several of the classes became standing room only.
Sales Director, Ron Willoughby, introduced some of On Rite’s newest technological products, such as the predictor, in a, “Selling through science” presentation.
Keynote speaker, Patricia Fripp, encouraged everyone to take notice of the endless business opportunities that surround us everyday.
Instructor, Sharon Gibson, put Ultratress Extensions on model, Aspen Lea, in the marketplace. Gibson gave step by step instructions and allowed clients to try the application on a mannequin head.
With over 300 people in attendance from around the world, On Rite’s conference was an excellent opportunity for networking and sharing business ideas.
extensions and hair loss alternatives. At the poolside cocktail party, anticipation peaked immediately when over 327 guests opened their welcome kits to discover a special gift – their own On Rite clock. This was their introduction to the conference’s re-occurring theme of clocks… time… and moving the hair loss industry forward. On Rite hit Olympic Gold with a hilarious video of Andy competing in different mock-Olympic events set against the backdrop of his state of the art, but still hurricane bruised, facility in Ft. Lauderdale. Andy introduced keynote speaker Patricia Fripp, recipient of the ‘10 Most Electrifying Speakers
Élan: Elan is On Rite’s newest men’s series of 5 grafts; a tissue-thin, 100% human hair system in 53 colors, natural and able to be styled any way a fashionable client could imagine. More style, more fashion, the French way. Comes with wide selection of collaterals; consumer brochures, materials for your website, yellow page ad, on hold message etc. EZ Strips: Pre-cut strips in convenient onehanded dispenser format, 3/4” or 1 1/4” for full head bonding or tape-on daily wear application. UltraLinks: The latest in the Ultratress Extensions line, available as pre-tipped 100% human hair extensions, using a no-heat method
The edge team performed a hair, “Trauma in the OR” skit and gave four models a make-over while engaging the audience with some upbeat music.