Marketing
Photo: Jim Jurica
Season’s Greetings
From all of us, to all of you... Happy Holidays and a Happy New Year!
Technology
Women’s Hair Replacement: The Second Act
Light Therapy Getting it Right
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pg. 6
News Makers
Meet Bessam Farjo, M.D. President, ISHRS 2007/8 pg. 15
Hair Journal International VOLUME 11 NO. 44
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF HAIR FITNESS , REPLACEMENT AND RESTORATION
Hair Restoration Surges Led by younger patients and women GENEVA, IL. 06/07 - Approximately 225,800 hair restoration procedures were performed worldwide in 2006, up 34 % from 2004, according to statistics released from a member survey conducted by the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS). This large increase in hair restoration procedures coincides with a significant jump in the total number of hair restoration patients worldwide – from 361,077 patients in 2004 to 645,281 patients in 2006. While men have traditionally dominated the hair restoration patient base, the proportion of women undergoing surgical hair restoration procedures
UCLA Biz School Grooms Salon Owners Los Angeles, 11/07 - The University of California at Los Angeles has begun offering hair salon owners, “An MBA like experience without having to go to business school.” The program, which focuses on finance and accounting, marketing and human resources, was developed in response to owner’s frustra-
Follea Launches New High-end Collection
Beverly Hills, CA. 11/07 - Follea International announces the launch of their new “Lifestyle” wig collection aimed at the high end of the women’s market. Based exclusively on premium Russian hair, Follea expects it to become the gold standard in women’s hair additions. Founder and president, Daniel Hafid is a second-generation hair expert; his father created Rene of Paris which was later acquired by Aderans. For the last ten years, Daniel has divided his time between the design center in Beverly Hills and his state of the art production facility in Asia. “Lifestyle” is the first of three collections Follea plans to launch in the US over the next twelve months.
Follow the Margins Murrieta, CA. 12/07 - With profit margins and eroding in their traditional markets, companies like Procter & Gamble Unilever, Colgate-Palmolive and even Clorox are now eyeing the highly lucrative personal care market. While L’Oreal has been conducting hair loss research in Europe, for many years, US companies have only recently begun to attend hair loss conferences and research seminars. Although shampoos and conditioners provide healthy returns, thinning hair products are even more alluring. Margins are even higher however, in the so-called luxury market, so it
appears to be on the rise. Since 2004, the percent of female surgical hair restoration patients has risen by 2.4 % – from 11.4 % in 2004 to 13.8 % in 2006. In addition, the survey found that patients are seeking treatment for hair loss at a younger age. ISHRS members provided percentages of male and female surgical patients treated by age category, and more than half (57.9%) of patients fell between the ages of 30 to 49 years old. Surgical patients in their 30s represented the age group with the largest number of patients undergoing hair restoration surgery (31.4 % males and 26.4 % females) – a shift tions with their inability to manage their staff and salons successfully. The program costs $4,500 and applicants must demonstrate that their business generated annual revenues of at least $250,000 for each of the previous three years. Attendance is limited to between 25 and 50 students. The UCLA program is offered at the Anderson School of Management and is officially called the “Salon Management Program.” So far it has drawn attendees from over a dozen countries.
Bosley Athletes Raise $6018 h for Cancer Research Malibu, CA, 09/07) – Over three thousand athletes gathered on Zuma Beach to participate in the 21st Annual Nautica Malibu Triathlon presented by Toyota. This year’s event raised over $718,000 for Children’s Hospital Los Angeles Pediatric Cancer Research. Racers navigated a course that began with a 1/2mile swim in the Pacific Ocean, followed by an 18-mile bike ride along Pacific Coast Highway and ended with a 4-mile run along Zuma Beach.Team Bosley was lead by Dr.Edwin Suddleson.
from 2004 in which patients in their 40s comprised the largest number of surgical patients. Specifically, the survey found an increase in the number of younger men undergoing hair restoration surgery from 2004 to 2006. In 2006, 17 % of men aged 20 to 29 sought surgical treatment for their hair loss compared to 15 % in 2004. The number of male surgical patients between the ages of 30 to 39 years old also increased – with 31.6 % seeking treatment in 2006 vs. 28.7 % in 2004. When ISHRS members were asked the average age of their patients who underwent hair restoration surgery for the first time in 2006, nearly half (48 %) of patients were between 30 and 39 years old, with patients in their 40’ representing the second-largest age group of firsttime surgery patients (36 %). (Conducted by RH Research of Chicago, IL.)
Is It a Bird, Is It a Plane? No, it’s Cyberhair at 125 mph!
should be no surprise that P&G is now a major player in the world of high end fragrances also. In 2003, P&G acquired the license to market Valentino fragrances. Valentino joins Hugo Boss, Gucci and Dolce & Garbana with whom P&G also has marketing relationships. Prestige fragrances are estimated at 18.5 billion, and are up 35% since 2001, according to Euromonitor Int’l.
WINTER 2007
Mouse Microdermasion Leads to Baldness Discovery Philadelphia, 11/07 – Recently published data suggests that new hair follicles can be made in adult skin when it is healing a wound. Researchers at the University of Pennsylvania examining wounds in mice noticed that the animals developed new hair follicles and oil glands after their skin was scraped in a process similar to microdermabrasion. In the study, tissue healing and regeneration was stimulated by the introduction of Wnt protein. Research to date has been limited to laboratory mice and it is not known if new follicle growth would also occur in humans, but scientists are optimistic. There are approximately 100,000 follicles on a human head and until now it was widely assumed that once one of them died it was finished forever. This research may change that perception. The study was published in the British journal “Nature,” by dermatologist George Cotsarelis, co-founder of Follica, a company that offers hair restoration services.
Body Hair Predicts Baldness
13,000 feet, 10/07 - Former Emmy-nominated soap opera star and extreme sports fan Amy Gibson was not going to let the fact that she wore a wig prevent her from enjoying a sport like sky diving. In an effort to show that her wig could endure what others might consider a hair raising experience, Amy did what any Gibson Girl would do...she put on her new wig and jumped out of a plan at 13,000 feet. Amy is shown here traveling at 125 miles per hour. She might look a little wind blown but her wig is still in place! Amy, who has been bald since she was thirteen due to Alopecia Areata, wanted women everywhere to see that even during high dives such as this her wig stays on securely. Her Amy’s Presence Sports Wig is made of Cyberhair and was designed by her for physically active people who like to work out, swim, scuba dive, ski and now even skydive!
“3-D” Botox
Children’s Hospital Los was founded in 1901 and has been treating the most seriously ill and injured children for more than a century. The hospital treats 62,000 patients a year in its Emergency Department and admits more than 11,000 children a year to the hospital, almost half of them children under four years of age.
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Beverly Hills, CA. 11/07 - Plastic Surgeon Dr. John Vartanian is making it easier for men and women to turn back the hands of time with his "3-D Botox" technique. With the Botox of yester-year, movement was lost in the areas where Botox had been injected. Now, Dr. Vartanian claims patients are able to retain movement in those areas thanks to the “3- D Botox” technique. “Injecting Botox is a careful process of selectively injecting specific sites to allow for careful treatment of those muscles causing wrinkles,” says Dr. Vartanian.
Lithia Springs, GA. 11/07 - Excessive body hair in men may indicate a greater chance of premature hair loss, says Nioxin Research Labs., a 50% greater risk if a man has complete chest hair; 70% greater risk if a man has chest, shoulder and back hair; and 90% greater risk if a man has total body hair. Nioxin provides solutions for men and women with fine and thin-looking hair.
“Here's looking at you, kid.”
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In this issue - The Holiday issue of the National Hair Journal is always packed with news, and this year is no exception. You will find photographs of your friends and peers in a bigger-than-ever “Seen and Heard” section where we report on people and products seen at hair conferences and shows around the country. We also interview the new president of the ISHRS, Bessam Farjo, who tells us about the latest developments in the medical field and what they mean to the hair management industry. Talking of new technologies, we are continuing to track the laser market and in this issue we print a transcript of a presentation recently given by Randy Veliky to The National Hair Society because the information he shares is invaluable to new laser owners and could help them navigate important legal and ethical issues. Steve DiManni, a longtime Journal writer, contributes another of his hard-hitting commentaries, this time shining the spotlight on the need for credible advertising if you want to be successful in the burgeoning women’s market. Market trends - We continue to hear that the men’s non-surgical hair replacement market is stagnant or in decline. While that may be accurate among “old-school” hair salons, when it comes to market potential, nothing could be further from the truth. Markets are built on consumer needs and men need to look good today more than ever. If that weren’t the case, how come hair transplants exploded 34%, according to the latest ISHRS census, with most new patients aged less than 30 years? And how come spending on men’s fashion and luxury goods is reaching new highs? Virtual Reality advertising used to call hair, “The ultimate accessory” and that’s exactly what it is. As Steve DiManni comments in his excellent article, there are more men with hair loss needs than women, it’s just that we have not found a way to communicate effectively with them. Think it can’t be done, or it’s too late? Let’s look at some other challenging markets; what about tobacco? That’s right, tobacco. At a time when tobacco is widely seen as antisocial, unhealthy and expensive, one segment is thriving solely because of skilled marketing. I’m talking of course about cigars. Cigar sales rose 28% between 2000 and 2004 because it created sophisticated, upscale imagery that is attractive to men... and women. Let’s take another category; wristwatches. Five years ago, who needed a second wristwatch? Time is time is time… or is it? Today
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watches have become the hottest fashion item with people shelling out thousands of dollars for the latest styles and designer models. This robust market for a totally unnecessary product was created through the power of advertising. Open any magazine and you’ll see what I mean. Now it seems to me, if tobacco and wristwatches can create dynamic markets with products for which there is no need, why can we not do the same in our category with a product that can change lives! If you think the hair addition market is a different animal, look at what is happening in the women’s segment. Here again, through the power of sophisticated, sexy and exciting imagery, the market is exploding. If everyone else can do it, why not the men’s market? Think about it. Hair Journal goes International In 2008, we officially become The International Hair Journal in deference to our expanding overseas readership. At the same time, we are updating our mission statement to read, “The official publication of hair fitness, replacement and restoration.” The new word of course is “fitness.” We see the function of the Journal being to provide you with information to keep your clients hair in optimum condition, what we are choosing to call “hair fitness.” We don’t try to compete with the fashion magazines that focus on hair styles, color and design. We are all about keeping hair in the best possible condition so that those styles can be created. And when hair thins or disappears, we provide information about the latest hair loss solutions. As the population ages - but refuses to grow old - “hair fitness” is going to be a more and more vital service, and we will be beside you to give you the tools to deliver it. Happy Holidays - The holiday season is a special time for us since it gives us an opportunity to tell our readers how much we appreciate their friendship and support. We treasure our close relationship with manufacturers and distributors and pledge to remain an industry resource to tell salons and clinics about their products and the people behind them. We hope you have a restful holiday season with your family and loved ones and look forward to serving you in the year ahead.
Chris Webb
Editor in Chief Christopher L. Webb
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Women’s Hair Replacement: The Second Act By Steven DiManni
Ten years ago, very few hair replacement studios targeted the women’s market. There was no need to. The men’s market was still relatively good, though nowhere near as profitable as it was in the mid and late 1980s. Nonetheless, except for the isolated studio here and there, the women’s market was largely untapped; a polite way of saying ignored. Then, men’s hair replacement clients, new ones anyway, became harder and harder to attract for reasons that are too numerous to mention here. And many studios started to venture into the field of women’s hair replacement to supplement their businesses. It was, and is, a great idea. For one, women are a natural extension (no pun intended) of the men’s market. From a technical level, the same basic skill sets are used to cut in and service women’s hair as men’s. Ordering and procuring the hair isn’t much different, either. And in terms of marketing, pretty much the same techniques that worked in the men’s business were initially successful in the women’s market, too. Soon, more and more studios dedicated their marketing efforts to women; many even changed the décor in their studios and its physical configuration to make it more appealing to women. Most of the smarter studio owners sent both their technicians and their sales people to classes dedicated to revising their skills to match the needs of women. The result? The women’s hair replacement industry took off. Studios that heretofore had no women customers suddenly were awash in them. And studios that had already been involved in the women’s market, even on a limited basis, did even better. In fact, many studios were doing so well with the women’s market, and at the same time finding it so hard to attract new male first-time clients, that they abandoned marketing to men altogether. Sure, they would service their existing male clients; they also undertook efforts to upgrade them to service programs that would wring maximum profitability from their stagnant or even dwindling male customer bases. But the majority of their efforts, and their marketing dollars, were dedicated to women. And this is pretty much the state of the women’s market, well, the entire hair replacement market for that matter, at the start of the new year, 2008. Call it “Act One” if you will. The times will be a’changing However terrific the women’s business looks now, you’re likely to find that it’s going to change in the next year or so…if it hasn’t done so already. I’m basing this prediction on market facts, anecdotal evidence, and some new proprietary research conducted in the fall of 2007 by the On Rite Company, which I will share with you later in this article. First, the market facts. The women’s mar-
ket is literally a microcosm of the men’s market. While many people have estimated the number of women with hair loss in this country as high as 40 million, that Steven DiManni total is entirely dependent upon what you consider “hair loss” to be and who has it. Many post-menopausal women suffer from hair loss, but few suffer it to a degree that makes it unable to solve the problem with anything more than a teasing comb. As well, post-menopausal women are less likely to actually seek a solution than their pre-menopausal counterparts. And when they do seek a solution, it’s usually in the form of machine made wigs that are bought from a variety of sources, few of them hair replacement studios. Pre-menopausal women are far better candidates for women’s hair replacement, as we all know. Because they’re younger, they feel more compelled to do something to correct their thinning, whether it’s due to sheer vanity or being uncomfortable around their contemporaries, the vast majority of whom have full heads of hair. They also have higher disposable incomes. How many pre-menopausal women in this country are there? Again, it comes down to the degree of hair loss that would cause a woman to seek corrective means beyond vitamins and volumizing shampoos. Is that one in ten women? Hardly. One in fifty? Even that is an optimistic figure. But let’s be optimistic. If one in fifty premenopausal women in the United States suffers from significant hair loss, based on census figures, you’re talking about two million women in the entire country. Compare the size of the women’s market to the men’s market If we’re talking about men under fortyfive with hair loss, and we agree that 40% of all men in that age group suffer from hair loss, we’re talking about 40 million men. That’s twenty times the size of the women’s market. And even if we discount half of those men as not having enough hair loss to really warrant seeking a solution, the number is still 20 million men— ten times the size of the women’s market. So women represent a much smaller target audience than men. And just as the men’s market once had the “cream” skimmed off its top, eventually, so will the women’s market. But….because the women’s market is much smaller, the so-called cream will be skimmed much faster. I’ve heard from several studio owners who told me that getting new women first time clients into the studio, at least for the initial consultation, is more difficult than it used to be. I’ve also heard from several studio owners that their cost per lead, when they advertise to women, has been climbing. Now, understand that I am not saying here that the women’s market is in decline. Nor am I suggesting that it’s still not a very profitable market in which to invest advertising dollars, today or in the future. Not at all. What I am saying is that each and every studio owner should be aware that the market for women’s hair replacement is nearing the end of its first phase, or “first act”, as I like to call it. What research told us In the fall of 2007, On Rite embarked on a major research project that delved into both the men and women’s markets. Because this research is proprietary, I cannot reveal the details in this article. But I can tell you, generally, what we learned from the females we studied... (cont.on pg.4)
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As you might well expect, women are information gatherers. No surprise here. Women have long exhibited this trait in research that I have been privy to over the past twenty five years. Moreover, there is a certain number of women who are very aware of hair replacement techniques and are quite knowledgeable about the details, right down to how it’s done, the materials used, etc. As well, a certain percentage of women are also knowledgeable about hair extensions and their advantages and limitations in correcting female pattern baldness. So the market is far more well informed today than it was several years ago. Just as the men’s market became more aware of what it is we were selling back in the late 1980s. That’s not a problem, really, but it is both a milestone as well as a caution flag. I call it a milestone because awareness of our product is a sign of a maturing market, which is the whole premise of this article. But it’s also a caution flag in that awareness of our product and services necessitates that we change our marketing tactics. Credibility is key One of the things that On Rite learned during its research undertaking is that credibility is one of the attributes most valued by women seeking a hair loss solution. This goes hand-in-hand with increased awareness of what we’re selling. It’s also why I advise that a change, or shift, in marketing tactics is in order as the women’s market enters its second stage in the maturity continuum. The reason that I say increased awareness creates a desire for credibility is that the “wow” factor is no longer. Women who see a hair replacement commercial for the first time (just as men once did) may be so excited that such a thing exists that they’ll rush to the phone or internet to find out more, just because it is so new and unexpected. (These are the “lay down” sales that seem to come in droves in the first stage of market maturity.) But, once people know what you’re selling, they want to know more, as in, “how will it work for me?” and “what’s involved in doing this?” The more comfortable you can make the prospective woman client, the better. And the key to that comfort is credibility. What’s credible, what’s not We exposed our test groups to several women’s hair replacement commercials and then got their comments. What they found unbelievable and non-motivating, meaning that they would not be likely to call for more information, were commercial that they believed were “staged”. They were particularly critical of scripted or partially scripted testimonials; they just didn’t find them believable. What they did say was that they would respond to commercials that appeared to be real and extemporaneous. But beyond commercials, the women also had credibility issues with how they were dealt with, both over the phone and in person. They were leery of anyone who would not tell them exactly what the product was or how it works. They were also suspicious if they could not get a price, or at least a price range, on the product. Again, none of this should be surprising to anyone who has experienced the men’s business over the past twenty years. Men’s testimonial commercials started falling out of favor by the mid-nineties. So you could say, well, that type of commercial was effective for over a decade. Most women’s hair replacement advertising hasn’t been running for anywhere near that long, maybe five years on average. But remember, the women’s market is far smaller than the men’s. That makes for a shorter time continuum, meaning that the
market maturity cycle accelerates at a much faster pace. Making adjustments I’m not advocating that any studio should make wholesale changes to the way in which they market and sell hair to women. What I am saying is that certain adjustments have to be made to keep abreast of the maturity cycle. The first adjustment begins in your studio in terms of how you’re telemarketing women. If you’ve been reluctant to give out much information on the phone up until now, you might want to rethink that practice. You certainly don’t want to give out so much information that the woman won’t need to come into your studio, but being a little up front about some of the methods you have to offer will certainly make you seem more credible and could be an inducement to come in for a consultation. When it comes to the consultation itself, it would seem that a full review of all the woman’s options, even alternatives that you yourself don’t offer, would make a very appealing impression and could enhance your credibility, if you’re not already doing so. Remember, women by nature are information gatherers. Being the provider of that information makes you an authority and lends credence to what you say. Regarding media One of the best things you can do for yourself, media wise, is to hire a buying service to place your media for you. But whether you have a buying service or are a “do it yourselfer”, you should take into account the realities of the women’s market when planning your schedule. Since there are relatively few women with hair loss, you’ll want to move your schedule around as much as you can. Don’t just stay with the same schedule because it’s been working “OK”. Obviously, if you’re getting tons of leads at a very low cost, you’ll want to replicate the buy. But once you see your cost per lead rise relative to what it’s been in the past, you should try something new. And if you’re not satisfied with your current per lead cost? All the more reason to try out a different schedule on different stations. And remember to keep women’s viewing habits and viewing patterns in mind: Women tend to go to bed earlier than men; they also tend not to channel surf as much as men do. While there are still quite a few “stay at home moms”, in general, be careful of heavy daytime schedules, because women who don’t work tend to have less discretionary income. Also, be mindful of the fact that there are cable networks, like Lifetime, WE, and Oxygen that specifically target women. Yes, it’s cable, and yes, the audience is much smaller than broadcast and you do pay a premium, relative to the numbers, but you’re really zeroing in on your target audience with such a buy. Finally, buy the best possible schedule that you can, relative to the target audience. The quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten. I’ve heard very few studio owners say, “well, I got no leads but at least the media buy was cheap.” The right media buy has as much to do with getting low-priced leads as the right creative. Even the best commercial in the world won’t do much for your profitability if it’s not targeting the right audience. A few words on creative Several of the television commercials / infomercials targeting the women’s market that have been produced in the past couple of years have not performed very well. I know of two in particular (I’m not going to say which ones), in fact, that have been out and out busts, not generating many leads at all.
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So before you go out and purchase one of these commercials/marketing programs, let me provide a bit of guidance regarding what you should be looking for. First, look at the age of the women in the commercial. Bunkie Knudsen, the former president of Chevrolet once said, “you can sell a young man’s car to an old man, but you can’t sell an old man’s car to a young man.” What this means, relative to the women’s business is very simple: if the commercial features older women, it probably won’t appeal to younger women at all, and may not even appeal to women who are the same age as the women featured in the commercial. Second, look at the content of the commercial. Is it delivering a persuasive sales message? Is it making a strong case for the hair replacement product being advertised? Is the message understandable and clear? Finally, what’s the commercial like from an executional standpoint? In other words, how is the message being communicated. Is there a long, scripted testimonial from a woman staring earnestly into the camera? Are there cutaway shots to show her in lifestyle situations? If so, this is the traditional type of hair replacement commercial for the men’s market that has been adapted to the women’s market…and it holds little appeal for women. What you really want to run is a commercial or infomercial with age appropriate women; women who are obviously not actresses or reading from a script; women who are clear and concise is what they’re saying. Oh, yes, a little emotional appeal goes a long way, as well. It’s a good time to be in the women’s business Just because the women’s market is entering its second act, i.e., the second portion of the marketing maturity cycle, doesn’t mean that it won’t be just as profitable as it was in the initial stage. In fact, it will probably be a much greater opportunity. The reason is that the second stage of a marketing cycle offers the advertiser significant advantages. In the first stage, there’s little or no awareness of the product/service you’re selling. People, in this case women, are skeptical. They’ve never heard of such a thing before. So for every woman who says, “Eureka, that’s it!” and runs down to your studio for a consultation, there are far more who are sitting at home saying, “What? They do what??!!!” Skepticism runs rampant and women who are skeptical tend to keep their wallets in their purses. So rather than fear this maturing of the women’s market, embrace it. Realize that opportunities abound for the smart marketer who is willing to adjust his/her thinking along with the changing impressions and attitudes of the women to whom you’re marketing. They want more information? You give it to them? They seek greater credibility? You deliver it. They’re less skeptical? You’re more open and less guarded. Put these simple, general principles into action and you might found that the second act will have you applauding far more than the first act ever did.
Steven DiManni is a 26-year veteran of Madison Avenue, serving as Creative Director of many of New York’s top agencies for clients ranging from Coca-Cola to Hitachi, and having won almost every major creative award the industry has to offer. He is also a 25-year veteran of the hair replacement industry and a long-time consultant to the On Rite Company.
FEMALE HAIRLOSS STUDY PLANNED
contributing to female hair loss and what to do about them. The National Hair Journal met with Hans Diks in Las Vegas in October 2007.
Hans Diks
For many years, hair loss was considered to be a male only problem. But the facts are startlingly different. Over 40 million women are believed to be suffering from hair loss in the US alone and the numbers are rising. The reasons for this escalation remain unknown, though experts attribute it to increasing levels of stress as women enter the workforce, hormonal changes at menopause, lifestyle elements such as diet, pollution, the increased use of hormones and food-additives, not to mention the devastating hair loss experienced by women undergoing chemotherapy. Hans Diks, a hair loss expert living in Rotterdam, Holland, wants a better understanding of female hairloss so he can provide custom solutions to the women visiting his clinics. Mr. Diks is collaborating with the University of Rotterdam to field the first ever clinical survey of female hair loss. Researchers will explore lifestyle, medical, and grooming issues, and try to reach a scientific consensus on the factors
HD:Hair loss among women is a huge issue. We are sponsoring a survey to be conducted by Faculty of Dermatology, at the University of Rotterdam to gain a better understanding of all the contributory factors and see if we can find a common relationship. Because of its importance, the project is also receiving grants from the government. NHJ:When does the research start? HD: November, 2007. NHJ: How long will the study take? HD: We anticipate that it will last half a year. If necessary, we will extend it for a half year more. NHJ: What provoked the study? HD: Ten years ago, we saw five women a month; usually women after menopause. Now we see ten a week, starting at 25yrs. A huge increase. Ten years ago, hair transplants on women didn’t happen. Now it’s a normal thing. We have great technology today, but even so, it can still lead to aesthetic problems; I myself have got a hair transplant and I’m happy with the result. But women come in who already have my hair thickness and they want
more. And I say, “Wait a minute. I’ve been treated. This is the end result!” NHJ:So what’s the solution for a woman who wants that extra density? HD: Of course they always have non-medical options, hairpieces, wigs, things like that. And now with there’s the laser, which is known to increase the number of hairs. NHJ:Will the study in Holland be the first analysis of female hair loss of its kind? HD: As far as we know, yes. NHJ: Why the University of Rotterdam? HD:They are well known for hair research. They have extensive experience in this field. They conducted the European trials for Minoxidil with Upjohn before the launch of Rogaine. Professor Neumann will oversee the study. He is the faculty professor, in the Department of Dermatology. NHJ:Would you join us on our radio show early next year to keep us posted on your progress? HD:It would be a pleasure. Hans Diks has over forty years experience in the hairloss industry. Twenty years ago, he founded the HairPlus group with members from most major European countries. Hans is currently European Ambassador of The National Hair Society.
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Maxing Out on Laser Therapy What to do, what NOT to do... and why it matters Low level laser light therapy is quickly becoming an accepted modality for hair loss professionals. However, in spite of all of the publicity, there remain many misunderstandings about the way lasers work, the different types of laser and the benefits clients and patients can anticipate. To help resolve these issues, The National Hair Society invited light therapy experts from all over the country to a special workshop earlier this year to share their expertise. Randy Veliky, Chief Operations Officer, Lexington International, was a keynote speaker and he outlined the regulations that apply to the use of lasers for cosmetic purposes in the United States and described the research his company had undertaken to secure clearance as a medical device. The FDA cleared the HairMax LaserComb as a medical device capable of growing hair in January 2007. As of today, it is the only laser to have received this recognition. The following is an extract from Randy Veliky’s presentation. The beginning of a new era - Thank you for inviting me to join you here. I was lying in bed last night trying to get to sleep, and I thought, “This is a great moment in time because we are on the ground floor of a
Randy Veliky
whole new laser industry. This is the beginning of a new era in the of treatment hair-loss.” Once you see how well this therapy works and the rewards of adding it to your business, you will never look back.
The birth of HairMax - Let me take a few minutes to tell you where the HairMax LaserComb came from and how it came about, because most studios will be able to identify with the story. David Michaels is the founder of Lexington International, the developer of HairMax. In the 1990’s he was living in Australia and discovered that he was losing his hair. He looked at his older brothers and his father, and they had no hair either – they were all follicly challenged. So he began researching hair-loss products and ended up going to a laser clinic owned by Henry Pearl in Sydney, Australia. Like many of your clients today, he would sit under one of the big laser machines three times a week and wait to see what happened. Well, guess what; David re-grew his hair! But David had a problem. He owned a successful software company and he had a hard time getting back to the laser clinic for treatment - I’m sure you hear that from your own clients. So he went to work to develop a portable laser, using the same technology, but in a handheld device. Today, that handheld laser is called the HairMax LaserComb and it’s already helping thousands of men and women suffering from hairloss. It’s been on the market for seven years and we’ve sold over 100,000 units. Proven to grow hair - This year, we were pleased to learn that the FDA has given us
clearance to market HairMax as a medical device clinically proven to promote hair growth in males with androgenetic alopecia, (Norwood IIA to V with Fitzpatrick skin types I to IV). Prior to this, there were only two products cleared by the FDA for hair growth, Minoxidil and Finasteride. Minoxidil was cleared in the early ‘70s and Finasteride followed in the late ‘80s. We did not see any significant advances in hair regrowth until now… or more specifically, January 22nd, 2007! The significance of light therapy - We know there are over 85,000,000 men and women in North America suffering from hair loss today. Until recently, they had limited choices; Minoxidil or Finasteride (if you are a man), hair systems and of course, surgery. Females had fewer choices than their male counterparts. I don’t have to tell the women in this room how your hair is part of who you are and how you present yourself to the world. So, unless your name is Britney Spears, you are probably not ready to make a fashion statement by shaving your head or going bald. Minoxidil is an effective solution for women, but you have to apply it to your scalp twice a day. And of course, there are hair extensions, wigs and integrations. But the great thing about the LaserComb is that it is easy and convenient to use and is very effective. Better yet, it can be used in combination with any or all of the other hair-loss remedies. So a man or woman doesn’t have to stop whatever they are doing now, they simply add low level laser light therapy to their hair care regimen. There are many different forms of light “Low level” laser light means it radiates less than 5 milliwatts of energy. There are powerful lasers too, like the ones surgeons use to perform eye surgery, and there are lasers for the skin that irradiate the top layers of the dermis. Those are all strong lasers. HairMax is different; it is a low level energy laser. It’s all natural. Nothing but pure light energy, similar to the energy that comes from the sun. But while the sun pro-
vides a broad spectrum of light from ultraviolet to infrared, we project only the light energy that is beneficial to your hair. We have determined through research the optimum wavelength to rejuvenate the cells in the scalp, and that happens to be 650-655 nanometers. 650-655 is just right - Someone asked earlier if it would be beneficial to increase the wavelength to say, 890 nanometers or 900 nanometers, but the thing to remember is the wavelength is based upon how deep into the skin it needs to penetrate. We have found that 650-655 penetrates perfectly. If you had joint pain, tendonitis, or tennis elbow, you might want the light energy to penetrate deeper, but that’s not the case with hair growth. HairMax is completely safe - It meets every international standard for laser safety. We currently export HairMax to 80 different countries. People often say, “Oh, my god, lasers – I watch Star Trek – I’ve seen Captain Kirk zap Klingons with a laser, and they blow up and die. Is this laser gonna kill me?” No, it’s not – those are high-powered lasers that they’re using on those TV programs. The second thing they ask is, “Oh, radiation – it says right here on my safety label that this is radiation.” Sure, it’s radiation – sound is radiation, light is radiation, and heat is radiation. But when many people hear the word “radiation” they think of microwaves - don’t stick your head in the microwave oven, or don’t dry your cat in the microwave oven because it’ll kill it! Of course it will! Those are a different frequency; different bandwidths of energy – and those are detrimental. We have chosen a wavelength of light - a frequency of light - that is very nourishing to the body. If it’s OK for the sales clerk, it’s OK for you - The best way to explain the safety of our laser is to compare it to another familiar product. (continued on page 10)
7 The National Hair Journal Winter 2007
8 Hair Journal International Winter 2007
Wacky Clothes Day—Thankfully, On Rite employees only dress like this on Wacky Clothes Day.
Judy, Lakia and Tash celebrate Monday Madness
On Rite Celebrates Customer Service Week October 1st through the 5th was National Customer Service Week and the On Rite Company in Ft. Lauderdale celebrated it in grand fashion. In recognition of the fact that customer service isn’t wholly dependent upon the customer service department alone, the whole company participated in a week of zany events and special perks. There was something planned for every day of the week, including catered breakfasts and lunches, a guest speaker, four raffles with prizes including an iPod, even a massage day and ice cream breaks—with the ice cream being served by management. Employees got in the spirit of things with a separate theme for each day, from Tacky Tie Day to Football Friday. The whole point of the week was to show appreciation to On Rite’s
employees for the difference they make in serving On Rite’s clients. “We’ve always prided ourselves on being sensitive to our clients needs and so we’ve always placed great emphasis on customer service,” remarked On Rite president, Andrew Wright. “But to us, customer service isn’t just the responsibility of the customer service department alone. You can have the best customer service department in the world—and I certainly think ours is—but unless shipping gets the order to the client on time or the sales staff gives the client the right advice, you’re not serving your clients properly. So customer service starts way before the customer service person picks up the phone and carries through long thereafter. This whole week we had was just our way of saying to our employees that we appreciate what they do, every week of the year.”
Eric displays his bad taste on Tacky Tie Tuesday.
Why are these people wearing football jerseys? It’s “Football Friday” at On Rite, part of the observance of National Customer Service Week.
Dean just thinks he plays for the Dolphins on Football Friday.
Even a president has to eat: Andy Wright finally gets some ice cream after serving his employees.
Photographs by: Oscar Rabeiro
Management serving ice cream to On Rite employees. Cool!
9 Hair Journal International Winter 2007 ver 70 million people today are experiencing the dramatic visual and emotional effects of hair loss. In the past, wigs were often seen as an undesirable option due to their unnatural look and tendency to shift or even fall off! Luckily, today it’s a different story. Professional wigs have been redesigned to look more natural, especially when real human hair is used. Special new adhesives have been developed to ensure secure wig placement, making wigs a much more appealing option for those seeking hair replacement alternatives. Today, many salons, day spas and hair replacement centers are now offering professional wigs, creating a fast growing new profit center. Your salon could be missing out by not offering a complete range of wig and hair replacement services.
O
Xtend Your Client’s Possibilities With 100% Human Hair Wigs By: Hannah Mayo able to get professionally trained on how to deal exclusively with customized or at least hand-made, human hair wigs. It is better financially and it will enhance your salon’s reputation.”
There are many different types of wigs, each with their own advantages. The most popular ones are professionally customized to match each client’s head shape, hair color, hair texture and hairstyle. They are fitted and colored according to the client’s preferences, unlike pre-designed wigs that are given to the client as is. Customized wigs tend to look more natural, which is the most important attribute clients are looking for. If you choose to work with customized wigs, it is extremely important to find a trusted and well known manufacturer. Ron Cardillo, President of SO.CAP.USA Hair Extensions says, “It is also advis-
Deciding on customized wigs also means that your hairstylists will need to be trained and educated in proper wig fitting, haircutting, hairstyling and maintenance. How good a wig looks is dependent upon the skills of the professional hairstylist. It all starts with a professional consultation. Clients wanting professional wig services need a face to face consultation to determine their individual beauty and lifestyle needs. An experienced professional can recommend a quality wig that will look great, stay great and enhance their client’s image and selfesteem every day. Cardillo notes, “The final responsibility for a satisfied wig client lies with you as their wig specialist and hairstylist. The manufacturer can make a really nice wig, but it will look unnatural if you are unable to help your client style and maintain it correctly both in the salon and between salon visits. Clients also need to learn from you about the professional styling products to use.” So, after training and educating your staff and hairstylists, be sure they know how to pass on that education to their clients as well. Clients should come into your salon at least once a month to have their wig shampooed and styled. One of the most important things clients consider when deciding on wigs as a viable hair replacement option is how easy they are to maintain. Cardillo adds, “Be sure your wig hairstylist carefully counsels each client regarding the natural look of the wig, its maintenance and security on the head. Offering professional salonquality wigs and services is vital to your success as a provider or hair replacement services today. Your best option is to provide customized wigs that are made with 100 percent human hair. And remember, quality products require quality support. Without proper training, your hairstylists can’t provide the best possible experience for your clients. Hair replacement though high quality wigs is a service that can grow exponentially for your salon through a well coordinated marketing, advertising and public relations campaign, as well as the word-of-mouth referrals you will receive.”
Most clients who are considering a wig are not looking to make a fashion statement. They are considering this option out of necessity. Many of them, temporarily or permanently, turn to wigs for medical reasons or, like cancer patients, when they lose their hair during therapy. It is rewarding to be able to help these women and they will to become very special to your hairstylists and a bond is likely to form between them. Given the current statistics, there are huge opportunities when you concentrate your marketing on women. Makeover photographs in your advertisements are a great way to make a visual impact on potential clients. “The most important reward will be that you will make your clients happy. Money often becomes irrelevant because the results are so great; self confidence is boosted and the client is happier when they look in the mirror and finally like what they see,” Cardillo says. “Much can be accomplished with professional salon wigs and hair replacement services. It will be rewarding financially and emotionally! I’m speaking from experience,” said Cardillo. Hannah Mayo is a Marketing Coordinator at Marketing Solutions, headquartered in Fairfax, VA. Email: MktgSols@MktgSols.com www.MktgSols.com. Ron Cardillo is President of SO.CAP.USA, a company that makes fine quality human hair wigs.
10 Hair Journal International Winter 2007
Light Therapy
don’t brush your teeth after they’ve fallen out, right? You brush your teeth every day or twice a day to keep them healthy in your gums. So keep your hair healthy in your scalp. Market laser therapy to people with healthy hair to keep their healthy hair. Now, if you are a six, a seven, if you look like Yul Brynner, Telly Savalas, or Andre Agassi, it’s not likely going to work for you. That’s where you should recommend a transplant or a hair system. What about someone right in the middle, a “three” who wants to get a system? Great. What the laser is going to do – it’s going to improve the hair outside of the system, so the system blends better. It’s going to make their growing hair look healthier, so it all comes together and looks like a better package.
(cont. from pg. 6)
When you go to a grocery checkout counter, your product is scanned over that little square. Well, that’s the same laser light. And the girl or guy working at the checkout counter sits behind that laser light 40+ hours a week with no negative side effects whatsoever. We’ve sold over 100,000 units and have never heard of a negative or adverse side effect. So there’s nothing to worry about there. The other question we get about safety is, “I’m putting this on my head Is it gonna go into my brain?” [Laughter] No, it’s not. The laser will shine through epidermis and dermis, but it will not shine through bone. It’s just like a flashlight; if you have a skull, you can’t shine a flashlight through it. And if it went into your brain, it would probably do good because it’s going to increase the blood flow and circulation… and maybe you’d become even smarter! [kidding] Mechanisms of action – You heard Dr. Hale and James Britt talk about increasing blood flow and micro circulation. One of the things we’re finding is, if your scalp is getting tight with age and hair follicle receptors are getting clogged with DHT, it’s probably because of a lack of blood flow. When you increase blood flow, oxygen and nourishment is getting through again and you’re rejuvenating the hair follicle. That’s the first mechanism of action. The second involves ATP (adenosine triphosphate). ATP is the energy block inside the cell; it’s like the fuel of the cell. When laser energy enters the mitochondria of the cell it increases the cellular energy. If you’ve got a cell that’s been weakened and choked off by DHT and poor circulation, if you give it extra fuel it will help reverse that miniaturization process that Dr. Hale talked about. We’re still studying the effects, if any, that the laser has on DHT. You light up my… cells - I brought along with me a short AVI (video) file that I’d like to play for you. What we see is a one-cell living organism on the left side of the screen. When I play the video, you’ll see a laser light being shone into this one-celled creature’s environment. Immediately this creature senses…knows that this energy is out there… it goes out and surrounds it. You can actually see part of this creature reach out and grab that laser energy and bring it back into itself. And after it grabs it, it maintains that energy outside of the light source. This is actual proof of a living organism taking advantage of laser energy. This isn’t magic; it’s nothing that can’t be explained by science. We’re seeing it happen right here. Clinical Studies - Low-level laser therapy and the HairMax LaserComb have been evaluated in multiple clinical studies. One of the first studies was performed by Dr. Markou in an independent study. In other words, Dr. Markou did this on his own; we didn’t pay him to do it, we didn’t ask him to do it… he’s interested in the technology and wanted to understand it better. Dr. Markou is a transplant doctor in Clearwater, Florida. His research was so significant that it was published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Surgery, Volume 5, Number 2, 2003. In his study, 14.1 new hairs per centimeter squared were grown. What does that mean? It means is that somebody who had a density of 50 now has a density of 64 per square centimeter; which is significant. The second clinical study was commissioned by Lexington International. It was conducted with Dr. Roy Geronimus. Anybody who’s into plastic surgery or cosmetic surgery in the New York area probably knows Dr. Roy Geronimus very well. He’s one of the leading doctors in New York City. His study demonstrated an increase of 15.5 hairs per cubic centimeter; again, very strong statistically. We submitted that study to Health Canada, and we were awarded Health Canada clearance as a medical device in 2004, and subsequently by the Singapore Health Authority. We also submitted our data to the FDA who
found our numbers were significant, however, their research protocol requires the use of a placebo and we had not factored this into our design. For those of you who are not familiar with the term, “placebo,” it’s a fake product or device. Imagine a headache study… the researchers find a group of people who have a headache and they give twothirds of them a medicine and the other third a sugar pill. The control group is there to see if just possibly the air in the room fixed their headache, as opposed to the actual device. Anyway, the FDA came back and said, “Lexington, you’ve got to have a placebo in your study. So we went back and designed a clinical study to meet the FDA’s stringent GCP (Good Clinical Practices) requirements. This time the study was multi-centered, which means that it was conducted in four different locations across the United States. It was double-blind, which means that the people who were using the LaserCombs and the people who were counting the hairs did not know which was a real device and which was a placebo. So nobody knew who had the placebos throughout the entire study. The final study was performed with 123 men - and the results showed that 93% of them increased their hair count. On average, we saw an increase of 19 new hairs per centimeter. That’s very significant and exceeds the published results from Finasteride, and Minoxidil. Photographic Evidence - For those of you who have not seen macro photographs of a scalp, that’s what a macro photograph of a scalp looks like. Here’s an example of a baseline photograph taken using Canfield imaging equipment and Canfield Mirror software. This particular individual had a baseline of 78 hairs. After six months of using the LaserComb, inside that same onecentimeter area, the hairs grew from 78 to 100. In other words there were 22 new hairs in that little area. We then plotted the hair counts. Anybody above this line grew hair. Anybody below this line lost hair in the clinical study. As you can see, there were three or four people that lost hair during the clinical study. When we interviewed them, they told us that they thought they had a placebo device so they didn’t keep using it and their compliance was obviously shot. That drew the average down. But look at this other person; he grew over 50 new hairs per square centimeter. A person who is thinning may have something like 70 hairs per square centimeter, so if he grew 50, he almost doubled his density! Combination Therapy - We believe in combinational therapy. We believe that in the battle against hair loss you use every
weapon you have. Today you will see doctors and clinics offer programs incorporating surgery, Finasteride, Minoxidil, and laser (hooded and hand-held) all combined. Target User - We recommend the LaserComb to people from 18 to 80 years. About 60% of our patients are male and 40% female. We have found that the HairMax works for over 90% of the people that try it. New Hair or Thicker Hair Shafts? Some people think HairMax only increases the thickness of existing hair. That is not true. It grows new hair. We have been cleared by the FDA to make the statement that HairMax is “clinically proven to grow new hair.” Let me clarify this further. If you are a Norwood Seven, you’re not going to look like your graduation photo. As Dr. Hale explained, the hair follicle gets choked and starts to miniaturize the hair. The hair life cycle becomes shorter and shorter. The hair diameter decreases. And eventually, when that hair is lost it does not grow back. However, that hair follicle will stay dormant in the scalp, not producing a hair for up to three years. After three years, the hair follicle dies and cannot be rejuvenated, but if you catch it within that time, there’s a possibility that it can be rejuvenated, revitalized, and start making a hair. Getting the language right - This is critical in your marketing claims. We are cleared to say “Clinically proven to promote hair growth.” “Promote hair growth,” and “Treat Androgenetic alopecia.” What does all this mean? Well, Androgenetic alopecia means male pattern baldness. Our FDA clearance is for males only. As I mentioned earlier, we had females in the original study, but we backed them out because we didn’t have enough participants to satisfy the FDA. Since then, we’ve gone back and conducted an additional study dedicated to females only. The results of the female study are very significant and will be submitted to the FDA shortly. Skin types - We recruited participants with skin types one through four (Fitzpatrick I – IV) because when you’re making a macro photograph of someone with darker-toned skin, it’s more difficult to count hairs when you have dark hair against dark skin. So we used lighter skin tones to have more of a contrast in the hair count mechanisms. Anecdotal evidence however, tells us that we have great results, regardless of the skin texture or tone. Norwood IIA to V refers to the degree of hair loss - The lower the number, the more hair you have. So what about the ones and twos? Well, if you have good hair, and you want to keep your good hair, laser it. You
“Device-specific” - the FDA clearance is device specific to the HairMax LaserComb. No other laser product can legally make claims of hair growth. Do not fall into the trap and try to enhance your marketing efforts by advertising “laser therapy” as “FDA cleared.” The therapy is not cleared – only the device, i.e. the HairMax LaserComb, is FDA cleared. The health authorities of many states are shutting down laser clinics that are making unethical claims. Those of you from Texas have seen what is happening there, and it is happening in other states as well. So the FDA clearance is device-specific, and you need to be aware of that. If you have a hooded unit, you cannot say that laser therapy is FDA-cleared. You cannot say the hooded unit is FDAcleared – only the HairMax devices from Lexington are FDA cleared. So you need to be careful with that. Cleared but not Approved - You heard me saying, “Cleared by the FDA.” Everybody’s also heard the statement, “Approved by the FDA,” right? What’s the difference? Drugs and topicals that are absorbed into the human body are “approved;” devices are “cleared,” okay? So any pill, any lotion (Minoxidil is a lotion that’s absorbed into the scalp) is “approved.” Any device; a scalpel, a Lasik laser, a HairMax LaserComb, those are all “cleared” by the FDA. The FDA and state health agencies are cracking down on unethical marketing claims. If you are advertising hair regrowth – you’d better be using a product that has FDA clearance as a medical device or the FDA and State health agencies can close your business. Only the HairMax devices have this FDA clearance. Lasers vs. LED’s - One of the things I want to show is that this is a true 3R laser – a classthree laser. When I hold it up, you’ll see it shine right across the room. An LED (lightemitting diode) or lower power Class 1M laser cannot shine across the room – it does not deliver enough energy. We have not seen any clinical support that LEDs grow hair because the energy thresholds of the mitochondria are not met. So don’t be fooled by someone who is shining red light out there and saying that it’s going to grow hair; The HairMax is the only company using focused beam Class 3R lasers. The copycat devices are Class 1M lasers or LEDs. This Laser Has Teeth – The teeth of the HairMax LaserComb are a critical component of the device. The teeth are aligned with the lasers; they plow and part the hair – pushing it out of the way – to allow the maximum laser energy to reach the scalp. The laser is only effective when it reaches the scalp. Lexington conducted a study with Rockwell Laser to determine the benefits of the hair parting teeth. Rockwell concluded that as much as 90% of the laser energy is blocked by the hair when not aligned with the hair parting teeth. Lexington has a patent in this technology and this design is an integral component of the FDA clearance. Randy Veliky is COO, Lexington International and is based in Boca Rato, FL. The National Hair Society is a professional organization that provides marketing and technical support to hairloss professionals.
introducing... N a t u r e ’s M o s t B e a u t i f u l H a i r
12 Hair Journal International Winter 2007
13 Hair Journal International Winter 2007
Follea Making The Best. ®
Creativity
The People
Ventilating
Our design center in Beverly Hills is located in the glamour and entertainment capital of the America with legendary styling talent that caters to the stars. We create the styles you see on the silver screen, on TV and on the world’s most beautiful people.
At Follea, we hire artisans and craftsman. People educated and trained in specific processes. Our buyers travel the world over, selecting hair from remote locations like Kazakhstan, the Baltic, the Ukraine and the Scandinavian countries, venues that are known to experts for having the best hair.
We are capable of every type of ventilation. Our experienced craftsmen are meticulous and unmatched in their abilities. They ventilate at half the speed of other companies in order to avoid the slightest irregularity. All the materials Follea incorporates in its products are the best of the best. Foundations, caps and fabrics are rigorously selected from the finest and most consistent manufacturers.
Our Technical Center One look at Follea’s research and production center and it’s apparent that it is guided by a very enlightened philosophy. This is a place where art and technical expertise come together to create the most beautiful hair products anywhere. Everything is state of the art, from the elegant reception area that impresses visitors with its lowkey sophistication to the hair-addition area with state of the art lighting.
The Expertise The experts who sort our hair have an eye for perfection. Our color artisans require a two year training program. They sort and select only the finest denier and delicate textures and are trained to find even ONE imprecise hair in a 150 gram bundle.
Our dedication to excellence makes each and every Follea product stand out from the rest. The difference becomes more noticeable with each wearing. Not only does the hair look more natural and healthy, it moves beautifully and feels superb. And, as you would expect from a product of this quality, the beauty endures, literally and figuratively.
Russian Hair
The finest products in the world cost more. They take longer to make. And fewer of them are produced. We are proud to be among them.
Individual Craftsmanship Follea does not ‘mass produce.’ Great care and skill are required to fashion each product by hand. That’s why with 800 craftsman, Follea produces only 1,500 2,000 wigs a month.
Quality Control Our quality control regimen demands 30 steps by thirty highly-skilled people, each overseen by a Section Chief.
The Result
This is the best hair you can find today. Its quality and color is similar to Caucasian hair. Our Russian hair is professionally cut from one individual. It is extremely soft to the touch and has extraordinary shine, even after bleaching. It comes in numerous natural colors, giving a wonderful range of results. This is the finest hair available in the world - and we buy more of it than anyone else.
Follea of Beverly Hills Professionals Only www.follea.com
A High-End, High Profit Collection Especially for You, the Professional Every one of the four design in the new “Lifestyle Collection,” from short to longest, is entirely handmade, complete with the ultimate “French-Part Top,” capable of parting naturally every time, wherever you desire. The handventilated, hand-made foundation is fashioned from imported Swiss spandex, combining the best quality, light weight, cool wearing, and “comfort plus” for virtually all head sizes. The “Lifestyle Collection” does not compete with your present inventory. We can provide every type of custom-made order for any problem or gender.
Fol le a of Be verly Hi l l s For further information contact Ms. Nicole (licensed cosmetologist and posticher) between 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Pacific Standard Time at (310) 858-0100. You may also Fax to (310) 858-9199 or E-mail to nicole@follea.com Sorry, no pricing given without business verification. Visit www.Follea.com for details.
15 Hair Journal International Winter 2007
Hair Journal International PROMOTING
Medical Section
COOPERATION BETWEEN THE ARTISTRY OF HAIR REPLACEMENT AND THE SCIENCE OF HAIR RESTORATION
Las Vegas, 09/07 - More than 500 physicians and surgical assistants from around the world dedicated to advancing the art and science of hair restoration gathered in the Venetian Hotel to attend the 15th Annual Scientific Conference of the ISHRS (International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery). “The demand for hair restoration procedures that deliver natural-looking, permanent results that are virtually undetectable has never been stronger,” said Paul C. Cotterill, MD. And the numbers back it up: An estimated 225,800 hair restoration procedures were performed worldwide in 2006, an increase of 34% over 2004. The global value of medical hair restoration is a mind-boggling $1,238,162,024, with 100,445 hair restoration procedures being performed in the United States alone.
Dr. F: Hair restoration is following a general trend. It’s fashionable to spend money on cosmetic surgery and anti-aging factors. When I started out, nearly 15 years ago, people wouldn’t tell anyone, including their partners, that they’d had surgery. Now they won’t come to a consultation without bringing their partners, and we have patients recommending us to their brothers, to their friends. NHJ: What do the numbers show? Are surgeons like President, ISHRS 2007/8 you performing more procedures? Dr. F: Although there is certainly an increase in demand for hair restoration, the procedure has become more sophisticated. So, it can take us longer to perform these operations. Top doctors today typically have a few months waiting list to have this surgery done. From the UK experience at least, there seems to be no end to the The National Hair Journal was in Las Vegas to meet demand. incoming ISHRS president, Dr. Bessam Farjo and learn NHJ: Men and women? about the latest advances in the field of hair restoration Dr. F: Men and women. Obviously, hair loss is far more and what they mean to you. In this interview, he explains common in men, but increasingly women are becoming his personal mission for the next twelve months and how aware what modern techniques can do for them. he is committed to strengthening the role of ISHRS on Another category that doesn’t get mentioned often is the world stage. gender reassignment or sex change patients. They’re becoming aware how natural hairlines are becoming. For NHJ: Dr. Farjo, congratulations on being elected presa transgender patient looking for a female hairline, that’s ident of the ISHRS. What are your priorities for the critical. year ahead? NHJ: As ISHRS president, are there any personal Dr. F: From the outset, this Society’s mission has been objectives you’ve set for the next 12 months? educating doctors and increasing awareness of what Dr. F: My main agenda is to increase awareness of the modern hair restoration techniques are all about - not Society in the world in general. There are still doctors in just for physicians, but for the general public as well. Europe, the Middle East, Asia, even South America who Over the last few years we set ourselves certain goals, are not aware of the great work we’re doing. Since we most of which have been achieved: physician training for doctors wanting to enter our are the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery, I would like to take the Society field, technician and medical-assistant training, and establishing media and public rela- out to the rest of the world and encourage them to come and join us. tions awareness. We now have a full-time committee that puts the word out about our NHJ: The key ISHRS function is education. How do you deliver this? achievements. At this conference, for example, we have representation from the popular Dr. F: So far, it’s been through conferences and surgical workshops. Now we’re trying press and National press reporting on what we’re doing. to organize a system of formal training programs. For example, at this conference there NHJ: Cosmetic surgery has moved from the back room to center stage. What used to was a beginner’s seminar on the first day. Participants initially received everything on a be a private procedure has now become fashionable. Just as we have “celebrity chefs,” CD, and then came to Las Vegas for hands on, practical instruction. We also have an advanced seminar for people who have completed it seems we’re now getting “celebrity surgeons!” (cont. on pg. 20)
MEET
Bessam Farjo, M.D.
16 Hair Journal International Winter 2007
Hair Society News Hello from your Society Coordinator – I can’t believe it is the end of the year already. It has been a busy year but we have accomplished a lot. The Society Website is now Heather Simon up and running and we have added many new members. I am happy I had the opportunity to meet some of you in person this year at the conferences and expos. I would like to thank all of you for your dedicated membership and I would like to wish everyone a Happy Holiday Season and a Happy New Year. Our Latest Wholesale Society Member is Lexington International, LLC
Say Hello to Our Latest Retail Society Members New Members Not Pictured: Barbara Tubbs, Nikki Walsh, Agnes Perellie, John Pilato, Linda White, Claude Krause, Janet Waddell, Alfred Werosta and Ernie Joseph Agular Menchaca. Invisible Hair Provides Certification From August 11th -14th, Dawn Harrison, owner of Invisible Hair, gave a 4-Day Invisible Hair Certification Class on how to apply Invisible Hair Systems at her headquarters in Vista, CA. Her training also featured the Master Class Series which was featured in the 2007 Fall edition of The National Hair Journal on pg.8.
INTERVIEWS WITH SOCIETY MEMBERS ACROSS THE STATES Over the past several months, I have had the opportunity of speaking with several Society members over the phone and asking them about their successes and the changes that have occurred within the hair replacement industry. I want to make sure every member has the opportunity to be interviewed so please contact me so I can feature your story in The National Hair Journal. Hair Replacement Clinic of Dayton is owned by Society member Bob Rider. He started as a Barber and then moved into hair replacement and has been in the industry for 45 years. He purchased the clinic where he is now located at 2077 Miamisburg Centerville Road in Dayton, OH, 22 years ago. Since it was a formerly a medical office, he is able to accommodate clients who would like hair transplants. Doctors are able to come into his clinic and utilize the lower level for the hair transplant clients. The upper level consists of the non-surgical clients. Bob is a big advocate of laser treatment. After patients have gone through hair transplant surgery they are able to Bob Reider use his professional floor-standing laser for a three month healing process. Bob informed me that low level light therapy is very successful for his clients. His clinic also offers the HairMax LaserComb for post hair transplant surgery clients to use at home.
Dawn Harrison and Kathleen Hassler
Many of the women came all the way from the East Coast to take the training. Those in attendance were, Society member,
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I asked Bob how his clientele has changed over the years and he replied that he has observed a marked increase in female clients. While most of the hair transplants at his clinic are performed on men, his female clients tend to use the laser treatments more often and Bob thought they responded better to the treatments than men.
Group Training
Bobbi Russell and her daughter Erica from Tampa, FL, Kathleen Hassler and Patricia Azzarelli from Staten Island, NY and Laura Triplett and Betty Lachermeier from Buffalo, MN. I had the opportunity to attend the 1st training day and saw Dawn demonstrate thin skin extensions. The extensions have a ventilated end that is hand-tied. The extensions lie flat and are designed for a flat/straight look for clients with thin hair. Dawn showed how you can customize the extension to make it work for the client. To find out more on how to become Invisible Hair Certified, contact 1-800-300-0498 for an info packet, or e-mail at info@invisiblehair.com.
Outside View of Clinic
Bob still does some hair replacement work for clients who have been coming to him throughout the years. He has nine people on staff and his business is doing well. He is a Virtual Reality and an OnRite dealer. He also participates in the Transitions Group. Thank you Bob for sharing your success. For more information about Bob’s clinic please visit his website at www.hrcdayton.com.
Society member Alicia Stevens is the owner of Genesis ll Hair Replacement Studio in North Syracuse, NY. She graduated from Beauty School in 1982 and started working in the salon that she ended up purchasing several years later. She transferred to hair replacement and has been in the industry ever since. Alicia offers many different services at her studio Outside View Of ProHair, Inc.
The Villager Hair Care in Charlotte, NC for 20 of those years. His first experience was selling Andy Wright’s stock pieces, that were known as Stephan-Rite and later designed his own custom hair systems, which opened a whole new direction of helping men with hair loss.
Alicia Stevens
which includes everything from non-surgical hair restoration, hair transplants, laser treatment, massage therapy and facials. If one of her clients is a good candidate for a hair transplant she refers them to Dr. Beehner who is a member of the ISHRS (International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery). I had the chance to speak with Dr. Beehner at the recent
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During that time, one of his employees had cancer and lost her hair due to chemotherapy treatments. Bill became interested in making a wig for her that was unique to her and not just “off the rack.” It was so natural-looking that no one realized that she had lost her hair. And that’s how Bill became aware that he was gifted in designing wigs and hairpieces. He began to specialize and word began to spread about his work.
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ISHRS conference in Las Vegas, NV. He had great things to say about Alicia and has received several referrals from Alicia throughout the years.
Hallway Within ProHair, Inc.
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I asked Alicia the same question in regards to the shift in clientele throughout the years and she said that she too has seen an increase in female clients. Her studio consists of nine styling rooms and seven technicians. She has had the privilege throughout the years to have family members working for her. Some of them offer consulting help while others handle the company finances. Not only is Alicia busy running her own studio but she also was elected to sit on the Board of Directors of the Transitions Group. She is the voice of the Transitions Group for the media and television networks around the country. She sets up the 30-60 second infomercials and creates the marketing materials such as brochures and letterhead for Transitions. She is also a Virtual Reality dealer and was involved in the set up of the infomercial for the Today Show. I would like to thank Alicia for sharing her success; please visit her website at www.genesishair.com.
Bill recognized changes taking place with hair transplantation and in 1989 opened The Professional Hair Institute. Using his skills with wigs and hairpieces he was a great asset in designing hair lines that were age-appropriate for hair transplantation. His expertise allowed him to work with non-surgical hair replacement, hair transplantation, laser hair removal and skin resurfacing, and before long Bill decided to rename his business “The Professional Image & Laser Center.” In January of this year however, Bill decided to change his company’s name again to ProHair, Inc. He is no longer offering hair transplantation and laser hair removal. His passion has always been hair replacement systems and some of his loyal clients have been with him for 30-40 years. Bill is known throughout the industry for his integrity. He is always looking for ways to help others improve their quality of life by helping them improve their appearance. I would also like to thank Bill for sharing his success. Please visit Bill’s website at www.prohairinc.com. Steve Heaton is the owner of the Lifelike Hair Center located at 1010 E. Sahara
ProHair, Inc. located at 1100 E. Morehead St. Suite 200 in Charlotte, NC is owned and operated by Society member Bill Kelly. Bill has been in the hair industry for 40 years. He owned and operated Steve Heaton
Bill Kelly
Ave. in Las Vegas, NV. I had the opportunity to visit his hair center while I was in Las Vegas for the ISHRS (International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery) conference at the end of September. I was also accompanied by Jason Saks, an assistant to Dr. Bessam Farjo who is a hair
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look at the other things about the person that is complimentary. She concentrates on looking at her client’s strengths instead of their weaknesses. She chose the name of her enhancement center in order to tempt people in unlimited ways.
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She uses multiple services to enhance her clients. She doesn’t want to focus solely on the problem the client is facing, but likes to use ALL her skills and resources
transplant Doctor in Manchester, England. Jason was interested in speaking with Steve about the non-surgical hair replacement options. This was a chance for a medical expert to speak with a non-surgical expert and see hair replacement from a different view. Steve Heaton has been in business for 36 years. His hair center consists of nine Styling Room
to enhance her client’s features. She has been in the industry for 35 years after starting with hairpieces. She lives in a rural area and found the demand for extensions was not there initially but she has seen demand grow over the last two to three years. Her closest city is Pittsburgh. Front Lobby
staff members and he has five service rooms available for his clients. His hair center is decorated in a dark mahogany English style setting. He is a big fan of English style because of his heritage and he and his family make a trip to England at least once a year. Jason and I spoke with Steve about the services that he offers at his hair center. He offers laser hair treatments, and refers candidates for hair transplants to Dr. Wong located in Vancouver, Canada and also to Dr. Joel Williams in Las Vegas. I noticed his displays of Revivogen prod-
Jason Saks and Steve Heaton
ucts in Steve’s center and he told me his clients have enjoyed successful results. Jason was interested in seeing the hair systems Steve carries and Steve showed us the Virtual Reality systems he uses for his male clients. Jason found it very undetectable and was impressed by the quality. Steve offers quality brochures for both his male and female clients that show before-and-after pictures and explain all the different hair replacement options. Steve has also seen an increase in female clients throughout the years. He is also a Transitions member and is very successful at what he does. I would like to thank Steve for inviting Jason and I to visit him while we were in Las Vegas. It took a while for our taxi to pick us up from Steve’s hair center so he was kind enough to offer us a ride back in his Mercedes to the strip. Please visit Steve’s website at www.lifelikehair.com.
Julia Meese is the owner of Temptations Unlimited located at 104 Walnut Ave in Rices Landing, PA. Her business is known as an I m a g e Enhancement Center for hair, nail, body, and self. It is the idea to take everything about a person’s assets and then Julia Meese
Julia focuses on a more natural approach to hair loss and treatment. One of the first treatment products she started car-
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rying was Nioxin. She felt comfortable recommending it to her clients because there were no drugs involved. She also recommends vitamins for her clients. Julia believes that malnutrition plays a big role in hairloss and skin problems. Providing the younger generation with guidelines to better diets may prevent problems for their future well-being. Julia’s clientele consists of professional men and women in their late 30’s and older. She told me she is seeing an increase in female hair loss. She has volunteered for the “Look Good Feel Better” program which focuses on children with hair loss. She has received many new referrals from this program.
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The skin care line that she carries in her image center is Pevonia, which is noninvasive and based out of Florida. I would like to thank Julia for sharing her success. Her website is currently under construction, so if you have any questions, please feel free to e-mail her at temptationsul@atlanticbb.net.
I would like to thank all the Society members who shared their business stories. If you would like to be featured in The Journal, please contact me via e-mail at hsimon@nationalhairjournal.com or by phone at 951-571-3209. Once again, I would like to wish everyone a wonderful Holiday Season and a Happy New Year.
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“Love is in the Hair” skills with your chemo clients’’ and “Building a successful marketing plan.’’ A highlight of the conference was “Hairspray” a highenergy Wig Fashion Show by Henry Margu based on the Broadway musical and movie, Niagara, ON, 10/07 – In October, NovEra International hosted its second hair loss conference at the White Oaks Conference Resort & Spa, in picturesque Niagara-on-the-Lake, Canada. The theme was “Love is in the Hair,”
NEW CONCEPTS Pushes the Envelope New products introduced at Ft. Lauderdale seminar Commentary provided by a seminar guest Ft. Lauderdale, 10/07 - New Concept’s Fort Lauderdale Educational Seminar was certainly an all inclusive event. Over 80 attendees enjoyed hands-on exposure to new hair replacement and hair extension products, some of them so new they are not yet in distribution! A highlight of the show was the “Dream Catchers,” Paris Hilton’s own hair extension team who did a fabulous job presening their new product line and encouraging the audience to stay ahead of the competition by acquiring exclusive distribution rights for their salon within their zip code.
The Henry Margu Hairspray Wig Fashion Show
produced by Danscape Entertainment Group. Guests also had a chance to dress for success themselves at the Peace & Love costume din-
LtoR Gloria .GIGI. Ford, Instructor: Georgette Gagliardi, Okyo Sthair & Dawn Harrison
After lunch, everyone was recharged and ready to learn how to prepare Dawn Harrison’s “Invisible Hair” extensions and integrations. Dawn explained who is the ideal candidate and how to apply
Carmine Gizzi, from the OnRite Academy, performing full head grafting. Dancers are getting ready for the big Fashion Show.
reflecting the love affair stylists and managers have with hair and the clients they serve. Industry leader, Michael Cole was on hand to share his tips for success with an inspiring and humorous presentation. The conference featured 18 seminars, covering subjects from ‘’How to create the most natural look for your male clients,’’ to ‘’Making miracle with synthetic fibres’’ to “Improving your consultations
ner party. 1970’s hippie outfits and wigs, flowerpower costumes and bandanas, wire-rimmed glasses a la John Lennon and peace & love necklaces were on display. Even Sonny & Cher were part of the party. Sarah Morrison and the Dog’s Life Band gave a wonderful performance. NovEra thanks its attendees, educators, exhibitors and partners for their participation and for supporting our mission!
Invisible Hair. The audience agreed she is truly an industry pioneer and by the end of the day the entire room was in awe! Dawn also shared some business secrets including marketing techniques, sales strategies and other tricks of the trade that have made her successful.
Michael Cole, keynote speaker, led the audience to the path of abundance with an inspiring and humorous presentation.
L to R John Paul, Okyo Sthair, New Concepts President, Di Volek & Chris Volek, President & CEO, Dream Catchers.
Among the products that New Concepts presented was one that is so new it is still in development. It is called “Serene Hair Grafts” and attendees were delighted to find a solution for top-of-the head female pattern baldness that is not a system or a wig. Serene Hair Grafts are made from human hair and are a breeze to apply; it takes 5 to 10 minutes (less time that it would take to tease). They can placed on the front and crown and are virtually undetectable due to their thin, skin-like construction. Serene Hair Grafts are available exclusively through New Concepts and distributors will be required complete an educational course to become officially Serene Hair Grafts certified. To learn more about upcoming training and certification, see the Hair Journal Calendar of Events. Joachim Mailloux, artistic director of Ultratress, Canada, teaching the hair extension class.
Novera International Team gathered to celebrate the Peace & Love costume party.
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New Image Hair Affair Ft. Lauderdale, 10/07 - The event was New Image's annual seminar and the team was on hand to greet guests and visitors. It was an opportunity to network and meet new friends. Some guests were escaping from early signs of a cold winter, others came from as far as Europe, looking to quench their thirst for knowledge, they landed on the sandy beaches of Ft. Lauderdale during the weekend of September 29th - October 1st for the New Image 2007 Fall Conference at the Harbor Beach Marriott Resort and Spa.
entertainer in corporate America. He was brash, bold and passionately bent on infecting pure entertainment into the New Image audience. Mark's enthusiasm was
simple to use cold application system. Rick Knowles joined Leonard Venti in a dual presentation that brought us up to speed on the growth in the women’s hair restoration market, and the importance of separating women and men in a studio setting, as well as technical the application and alternatives in the Ladies’ market.
As new technologies come to light, Rob & Sylvia Turcotte teamed with New Image did not disNew Image displays new products for seminar attendees. New Image’s appoint them. Delivering new product technologies combined with a refreshing, and his energy level gave the own Bruce Robertson, highlighted ScanHair - A relatively new and innovative series of business titles provided the crowd a great start to an amazing event. program that takes professional cussought after Treasures they came to plunder. All left with renewed insights and In response to demand from ever-growing tomized equipment paired with uniquely women’s mar- designed software developed by New ket & the eth- Image to analyze scalp & hair conditions nic market, to come up with recommendations for New Image client treatment. was proud to offer the tech- On the business side, Mike Montemurro nical skill and offered “The Sales Consultation” - practiknowledge of cal advice on how to close quickly and B r i d g e t confidently. Familiar face and friend Winton in Keith Zimmerman took the new business “ H a i r owners under his wing and provided Solutions for “Tricks of the Trade.” In addition, Tom Women of Scotti presented business owners with Color.” Her ideas on how to “Make More Money credits as a Without Spending Money.” New Image’s celebrity hair- IT Manager, Robert Burns offered classes stylist, hair that talked about New Image’s Web Order Marvelless Mark's enthusiasm gave an electrifying start to an amazing event. e x t e n s i o n Central and the newly redesigned front skills that would drive their businesses to technician, educator, writer and motivanew heights. tional speaker have expanded over 22 years. She specializes in custom-wig The weekend kicked off on Saturday making for television, film, stage and nonevening with a casual cocktail reception surgical hair replacements. where guests where greeted by Tony Sciara, (New Image, President) and key Jim Toscano and Peg Lowe took us “Back to Basics,” then Jim teamed up with Keith members of the New Image Team.
Jim Toscano gives his client “The Ultimate Transformation.”
end of the New Image Web Site.
First Lady’s Christina Grimaldi talks with attendees about New Image products.
Opening day Sunday we were greeted by Mark Kamp aka "Marvelless Mark" the "Ambassador of Celebration." He also carries such titles as “Music Motivator” and “Mr. Excitement.” He is most certainly the most talked about one-man versatile
in the “Ultimate Zimmerman Transformation.” Rick Knowles & Kristin Anderson brought us “Extension Madness,” using New Images Secret Strands™ Platinum line of hair extension systems; highlighting “Loop ‘n Lock” - a
All the excitement and energy did not diminish as Sunday night approached. Attendees were greeted in the foyer for the Margarittaville dinner/dance, as characters posed for photos and fun. Attendees were also delighted and danced into the early hours and commented that once again, the New Image staff had really outdone themselves! As in past confer-
Bridget Winton works on a model in her class “Hair Solutions: Women of Color.”
Children with Hairloss founder, Regina Villemure introduces New Image’s VLS System.
ences, the Monday morning general assembly was the setting for Children with Hairloss charity event. Attendees had the opportunity to learn more about the foundation and participate in a raffle of items donated by New Image and others. Regina Villemure, founder of Children with Hairloss provided an emotional look at the needs of the children and the necessity to raise funds so no child goes without hair. Under the program, children receive hair replacement solutions at no cost until they reach the age of 21, regardless of family financial status. Due to the success of Hair Affair, several courses were scheduled for the next couple of months at NIU (New Image University), with emphasis on ethnic hair and extensions. But most of all, visitors were delighted to find themselves in a relaxed, fun-filled environment where they could laugh and play while getting top level educational advice from people like Jim Toscano, Peg Lowe, Tom Scotti, Keith Zimmerman, Robbie & Silvia Turcotte, Lenny Venti, Rick Knowles, Mike Montemurro, and Bridget Winton. New Image looks forward to seeing everyone again in 2008!
Hair Affair attendees enjoy the Margarittaville dinner/dance.
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the beginners’ course and want to move on to more advanced skills. Then there are specialized workshops and, of course, our Annual Scientific Conference, which is geared towards intermediate and advanced doctors. NHJ: Who examines and certifies the doctors and medical assistants after training? Dr. F: We work closely with the American Board of Hair Restoration Surgery (ABHRS) who administer the actual tests. Applicants can be examined in the local cities where they practice. NHJ: If someone wants the reassurance that their physician is properly accredited, where should they look? Dr. F: The International Society’s website, www.ISHRS.org. It lists all the members, with their profiles and affiliations. It also indicates the number of times a physician has attended the conferences, which is an indicator of the doctor’s dedication and commitment. Soon we’re going to indicate whether the physician has attained board examination yet or not. We also plan to issue a CME certificate (Continuous Medical Education certificate) to show if a physician is maintaining the required hours of continuing education. NHJ: If a member of the public had been able to attend this scientific conference and slip into some of the presentations, what are the things that would have impressed them? Dr. F: Where do I start? On the first day, they would have been impressed with the basic sciences course where some really eminent names, people who have pioneered research into hair, give us lectures on the latest scientific advances. They would have learned about new insights into androgenetic alopecia and ways to recognize the differences between the hairs that you lose, and the hairs that you don’t. Why did Ronald Regan keep all his hair while many young men of 25 years don’t? There’s also a lot of promise in the field of cell therapy, where we are trying to multiply cells or clone cells in the lab. Soon we may be able to grow hair out of a cloned cell in the lab and then re-plant it. People would also have been impressed with how much attention we’re paying to our surgical techniques and our instrumentation. Today we learned new ways to remove donor tissue from the scalp with minimal damage to the hairs. I could go on and on… every year the technology
actual hairs? Wouldn’t that be cosmetically more predictable? Dr. F: You’re right. In fact, we’ve already shown that we may be able to cultivate hair from these cells in the laboratory. The obvious implication of this is, if we manage to make hairs outside the body then physically implant them, we would be more in control of the end result. For example, we could control of the angle of growth and the flow of the hair.
“ the future may be that people may have a combination treatment where you put the hairs into the frontal, more visible part, and cells behind there to create volume.” NHJ: There’s also the issue of survival. If you inject cells in an undeveloped state, you don’t know how many are going to grow so you cannot predict the cosmetic end result. Dr. F: Certainly, if we plant hairs rather than cells, we should be in a better position to predict the new growth and control the aesthetics. You are also correct in assuming that there is a possibility that if you just inject cells, the outcome could be less predictable. However, nature has a way of finding a way around things, and we still expect a good result with cells transplants. The future may be that people may have a combination treatment where you put the hairs into the frontal, more visible part, and cells behind there to create volume. It is very difficult to predict at this point; we still have plenty of work to do on the research front. NHJ: We’ve all seen how landscape gardeners grow turf to create a manicured lawn. There are big, green, beautifully irrigated fields full of grass ready to be transplanted. What do “hair fields” look like? Are there lots of little Petri dishes sprouting hairs? Dr. F: Actually, it’s a similar idea. At this point, we don’t really know what the production line is going to look like, whether we’re going to have individual hairs sitting in a Petri dish, or whether we’re going to have some sort of tissue the hairs are growing in. It still is very early days. The hair experiments where we’re growing hairs outside the body are still only done in the mouse. We’ve not moved to the human, but we see no reason why we can’t do that. However, there’s plenty of work to do,
“15 years ago, people wouldn’t tell anyone, including their partners, that they’d had surgery. Now they won’t come to a consultation without bringing their partners” goes higher and higher. NHJ: Let’s get back to those new procedures. Let’s start off with cell multiplication; there are two research teams racing side by side. Take it from there… Dr. F: Okay. But I have to tell you that I’m a little bit biased, because I’m personally involved in one of the projects. I’ll tell you about the one I know about. This project is sponsored by a company called InterCytex, which is based in the United Kingdom. I act as their principal investigator. We’re currently in the middle of human clinical trials. Volunteers donate a number of hair cells, called the dermal papilla cells, which are then cultured and multiplied in the laboratory. We are then able to produce millions of new duplicate cells. The idea is that if we bring these cells back in solution form and inject them into the same person that donated them, we can literally give him or her any hair density he or she wishes to have. We are in the middle of Phase II of the trial and everything looks promising, but the official results are not going to be available for another 12 months at least. NHJ: Why not let the cells grow in vitro and place them in the recipient area as
ing traditional hair transplantation, but there are also robotics being developed for the automation of cell therapy treatments. The answer to your redundancy question is “No.” As physicians we will not be redundant, but how we do things may be different. I get approached by a lot of doctors who say, “We’re going to lose business if cell therapy and automation become commonplace.” And it’s not true at all. It’s just going to change the way we do things. It’s
because in regular transplantation we don’t transplant the hairs on their own. They’re in their little bed of skin to help them survive. So, to avoid damage and dehydration, we still have to figure out the “multiplied hair” transfer method. How do you transfer these hairs, and do they have a little bit of tissue around them or not? NHJ: How do you see this technology coming into the marketplace? Dr. F: At the moment, the only clinical trial site is in the United Kingdom, so I expect that when the treatment does become available it will happen first in the UK. That doesn’t mean it’ll only be available for United Kingdom patients because we all get patients from all over the world. It’s really an international field. Once we finish our Phase II trials and move into Phase III, we’ll probably move into multi center trials, and the United States and other parts in the world will be involved with that. NHJ:Without wanting to make you uncomfortable, are you going to be redundant in a couple of years as robotics comes onto the scene? Dr. F: Robotics is a very interesting subject. We’ve heard in this conference about robotics trials for the purpose of perform-
going to increase the range of products we’ll be free to offer to our patients. People will have options; they’ll be able to choose what they want to have. Obviously, there’ll be different costs involved in various techniques. As long as we are producing natural and reproducible results and patients are happy, it doesn’t really matter that some physicians will choose to do surgery one way, and others will do it another. NHJ: For the longest time the only FDA cleared solutions for hair loss were two drugs, PROPECIA® from Merck and ROGAINE®, a topical solution and now a foam formulation from Johnson & Johnson. But recently, a third player has entered the game… tell us about the power of light. Dr. F: You are talking about low level laser therapy. The information we have indicates that it seems to help and there are quite a number of physicians out there who believe it has a role to play. The feedback I’m getting is that for some people, it can increase the fullness of the hair or emphasizes the color or even the weight of the hair. We don’t completely understand the mechanism of why it does that, and why it works for some and not for others. More and more people are looking into it, and it could have a very important role to play, similar to Rogaine® and Finasteride. It seems to work for the same category of patients that we prescribe these medications to; the person who has hair that is on its way out, especially women. NHJ: Of course, the ISHRS also gives back. Tell us about the pro bono program. Dr. F: The ISHRS pro bono program, also called “Operation Restore,” is an excellent program that started two or three years ago. Dr. Paul Rose was instrumental in bringing it to the floor when he was president. We have established a fund, reliant on donations by our members, to help patients who have lost their hair due to injuries, trauma or tumors of the scalp who are not in a position to fund surgery themselves. The purpose is to help people who would otherwise find it difficult to fund this themselves. NHJ:Thank you for taking time out from a busy program to share this information with Hair Journal readers. Dr. Bessam Farjo and his wife Dr. Nilofer Farjo were trained at the Royal College of Surgeons in Ireland and specialized in follicular unit surgery in Toronto, Canada. They work together in their state of the art Manchester, England clinic. Dr. Farjo is one of the lead researchers in cell multiplication and a much sought after educator. Dr. Farjo replaces Paul C. Cotterill, MD as President, ISHRS. Founded in 1993, the ISHRS is a non-profit medical association dedicated to the advancement of the art and science of hair restoration. With a membership of over 600 physicians worldwide, the ISHRS provides continuing medical education to physicians specializing in hair loss and restoration surgery and serves as a resource for the public on the latest medical and surgical hair NHJ restoration treatments for hair loss.
PLAN FOR THE UNEXPECTED By Mark Deo The road was wet and dark as truck after truck entered what is known as the most dangerous tunnel in Southern California. Even under excellent conditions, most drivers have grown to fear its sharp curves and dips. On this cold evening, these drivers were unaware of what was about to take place. A fiery wreck consumed the lives of 2 people, and dramatically altered the lives of many others. October 14th was a tragic night on the 5 freeway, just north of Los Angeles. In addition to the loss of human life, the closure of this freeway for several days prevented travel between LA and Northern California. As a major trade route that sees millions of dollar of cargo daily, shockwaves were sent through the business climate in Southern California. Companies often face unanticipated challenges like these. Do you have a business plan ready to execute next week for an interruption in your supply chain, recession, terrorist attack, sudden drop in the stock marketing, or a spike in oil prices? The best businesses are ready. Many have even profited from events that destroyed or damaged their competition. For companies that want to turn fatal blows into near-fatal blows, they must plan for the unexpected. How do you plan for the unexpected? David Shechtman, who was on our radio show a few weeks ago, does just this. He calls it "Scenario Planning," which involves drafting possible scenarios and planning for them. Possible scenarios that exist for you may include: 1. If this new product does not gain traction in the marketplace, how will we react? 2. If our smallest competitor moves to a dominate position in the marketplace this year, how will we react? 3. If our suppliers are not able to make delivery due to forces outside our control, how will we react? 4. If a key employee decides to leave and go to a competitor, how will we react? When you have a plan for overcoming these setbacks, you can move forward without skipping a beat. It's likely you are very busy. If there was a quick way to plan for scenarios, would you be interested in hearing about it? Use your lunchtime. Take your executive team to lunch and brainstorm everything which could go wrong. Create an exhaustive list without working through it. At the end of the lunch, choose two scenarios and have your team jot down ideas for how to navigate those problems over the next week. Take them to lunch again in a week and discuss your ideas. Do this every week over the next few weeks and you will have planned for the unexpected. If you foresee this meeting venturing off onto tangents, or you believe it will not be effective, hire a facilitator to manage these lunch meetings. If you're not sure who to contact, contact us for recommendations.
Mark Deo – has been a contributing editor to the National Hair Journal since 2001. He describes himself as a “business transformation specialist” and provides support to small and medium-size enterprises. He can be contacted at NHJ.
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cial needs.” Between treatments April Ann is a stand-up comedian and is writing a book about her life.
VIRTUAL REALITY ONSTAGE “The Energizer” just keeps going and going In October, Lance Centofanti was back in the TV studios, this time on the Montel Williams Show to tell viewers about the benefits of Virtuesse and Virtual Reality. tion for her hair loss. She is an incredibly brave woman. I learned that April Ann has been through this at least six or seven
And going… Lance Centofanti has also been interviewed recently by Bravo and PBS National programming and is currently discussing the possibility of a Reality Show. Lance believes that PR is the leadership component for the 21st century. In his own words, “PR can greatly magnify the effectiveness of VR advertising and give visibility to our dealers. Brand identity is a key component of our network strategy.”
ABOUT US Hair Journal International is part of The National Hair Group, a business consortium committed to the development of the hair-management industry. The National Hair Group provides information services via Hair Journal International, a business newspaper. The National Hair Society is an educational, marketing and networking, professional support organization. The Group also provides consumer education via National Hair Broadcasting, a weekly broadcast show.
HAIR JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL Mission - To provide hair-management professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will help them make better business decisions and provide superior service to their patients and clients.
Editor In Chief Christopher Webb cwebb@nationalhairjournal.com
Managing Editor
Since October was Cancer Awareness Month, Fox wanted to share the heroic story of April Ann Barbarino and her battle with cancer. April Ann is a woman of incredible courage who is an inspiration to everyone. She has suffered through challenges that would cause others to give up. As Lance told Montel on the air, “I feel fortunate to have met April Ann and been asked to provide a fashionable solu-
times in her young life and I feel privileged to be able help her. April Ann and our own Marilyn Dodds are two people who have helped our company refocus from working only with the Hollywood celebrity side of the industry to providing fashionable solutions to women with spe-
Graff Technology on PBS - Graff Technology of Riverside, CA was recently featured on PBS discussing hair loss and the different options available. The following day, she appeared on the NBC affiliate in Palm Springs. Graff Technology was chosen to represent the hair industry because of its consistent advertising and as a result of an earlier interview on another station that created a buzz and lots of attention. Bette Graff thanks Chris Licursi, Rich Judd, Coco Testa, Zaida Rios, Deborah Carter and Sal Massa for helping the company achieve this media recognition.
Penny Moss pmoss@nationalhairjournal.com
Creative Director Avi Roth aroth@nationalhairjournal.com
Contributing Correspondents Educational & Technical Isaac Brakha James Britt Bobbi Russell James Toscano Steven Dimanni Women & Fashion Marilyn Dodds Medical Alan Bauman MD Shelly Friedman DO
NATIONAL HAIR BROADCASTING Mission - To deliver reliable, objective information to men and women who are concerned about their hair loss and want an unbiased perspective on the choices available to them.
Division Director Penny Moss pmoss@nationalhairjournal.com
Production Director Mike Ferreri mike@mfaudio.net
Sound Engineer Dan Feely dan@danfeely.com
NATIONAL HAIR SOCIETY Mission - The Hair Society was created at the request of forward-looking hair-management specialists seeking educational and marketing support to grow their business. It connects manufacturers, distributors, retail salons and medical clinics and provides an ongoing network for crossmarketing and dialogue.
Membership Director Heather Simon hsimon@nationalhairjournal.com
NE Regional Director Catherine Ingoglia
CA Regional Director Edmarie Masters
European Director Hans Diks SUBSCRIPTIONS To subscribe to Hair Journal International call 1-951-2564385 or send an Email to subscriptions@nationalhairjournal.com. You can also write to us at the address at the bottom of this column. Hair Journal International subscription billing and renewals are managed by: Receivables Management Corporation PO Box 50650 Indianopolis, IN46250 Tel: 1-800-894-9031 Email: rwarren023@aol.com ADVERTISING To place an advertisement or request a Media Kit, contact us at advertising@nationalhairjournal.com or call 1-951256-4385 LEGAL NOTICE Notice: Hair Journal International, Issue number 44 Copyright ©2007. All rights reserved. While great care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information in Hair Journal International, the publisher does not assume liability for decisions based upon it. Readers are advised to seek further independent advice. All statements, including product claims, are those of the person or persons making the statements or claims. The publisher does not adopt any such statement or claim as its own, and any such statement or claim does not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. Hair Journal International accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All materials in this issue are the property of this publication and nothing shown may be reproduced in any form without obtaining the permission of the publisher and/or any other persons or company who may have copyright ownership. Requests should be addressed to: Publisher, Hair Journal International, 39252 Winchester Rd., # 107-383, Murrieta, CA 92563.
HOW TO CONTACT US National Hair Group 39252 Winchester Rd., # 107-383 Murrieta, CA 92563. Telephone: 951-541-2809 news@nationalhairjournal.com subscriptions@nationalhairjournal.com advertising@nationalhairjournal.com events@nationalhairjournal.com
22 Hair Journal International Winter 2007
Assume Nothing in Online Marketing
names and email addresses in order to send out newsletters, you’re already generating valuable sales leads. Now you can send out a personalized HTML email newsletter each month (that looks like your website, complete with color and images) that Michael Garcia highlights the most important parts of your website. As prospects you always (wrongly) assumed had seen your before-andafter photos actually see them for the first time, you’ll soon notice an increase in leads.
By Michael Garcia
Just Say “No’To Assuming - We’ve all heard the expression, “When you assume, you make an Ass of U and Me. We laugh, but we continue to “assume” and choose not to “communicate.” Assumption is the bane of any relationship and it can cost a business owner dearly. Successful business owners and their clients share a relationship that usually begins when a prospect visits the company website. And that’s the first place the assuming has to stop. As business owners, advertisers and marketers, the most damaging assumption we make is that everyone sees the world the way we do, thinks the way we think and reacts the way we react. The Talmud reminds us that, “We don’t see the world as it is, we see the world as we are.” When it comes to online marketing, assume nothing. Here are some common but costly assumptions that people make with their online marketing: Say What You Mean - When a prospect arrives at your website, you get one chance to make a good first impression. Your message must be clear and simple to understand because your competitor’s website is only one click away. I recently saw a website that said in big letters “We Restore More than just Hair.” Sure it’s a powerful message, but don’t assume anyone will understand that without some clarification unless they have time to ponder … or a degree in philosophy! The implication of that slogan is that the salon will restore self-confidence and self-esteem. Say it! Spell it out! Remove the guesswork. If you believe that your salon offers the highest quality service to women say it in the simplest possible way. Don’t rely on your website’s design, fancy tricks, client photos or testimonials to get your point across. Simple English will do it better.
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Keep It Simple - If you enjoy “high-tech” websites with video, sound, flash animation, live-chat and fancy drop-down menus, you can assume that most everyone enjoys those same things. Even so, never assume that your prospect’s computer is equipped with the right software and hardware needed to experience your website. Especially, don’t rely on those gadgets to make your impression if you haven’t “said what you mean”. Research has shown, for instance, that most web surfing in America is done while people are “on the clock”. If you’re counting on that fancy video to make an impression, don’t count on it. His speakers will be off as he hides his activity from his boss. Internet Explorer now requires users to click on a Flash presentation twice before activating it. Most people still can’t figure that out. “High-tech” gadgets only work as long as your website – without those gadgets – has a clear, organized and concise message. Lead Prospects To What You Most Want Them To See - Even if you have a website with all sorts of great information promoting your business - and even if that information is wellorganized and well-laid out - never assume that prospects are seeing what you want them to see. They aren’t. We believe that people surf a website as we do. They don’t. What is, no doubt, the single most important Internet Marketing tool – online newsletters - virtually eliminates this challenge. The Power Of Newsletters - There is only so much information you can add to the front page of your website. The only way to ensure that your prospects are seeing your client photos, reading your client testimonials and viewing your online infomercial is through newsletter marketing. If your website is capturing
Know Your Visitors - If you can entice your prospect to leave you his name and email address, he doesn’t become just another website visitor who couldn’t find what he was looking for and clicked to a competitor’s website. You can now market to him monthly, beaming the rich nuggets buried in your website to his email inbox. Adhere to these simple rules and you will notice increased activity from your website and a greater return on your online marketing dollar. Don’t assume I’m right or wrong. Try it! Michael Garcia, of MG&A Consulting is an Internet Marketing and Search Engine Optimization Specialist who offers E-commerce solutions for clients who seek higher Internet visibility. He can be contacted at (888) 420-4606
Charles Spivey A Wonderful Human Being
San Diego, CA - Charles Spivey, a salon industry icon, hero and a wonderful human being – passed on recently at age 61while with his family in Alabama. Charles Spivey started his career over 40 years ago in the professional beauty business and worked as a hair designer, a distributor and a manufacturer’s sales representative at various companies including Zegarelli Haircare, HAIelite and Paul Brown. The tragic loss of Charles Spivey will be difficult. Charles always searched for the goodness in every person he met. We salute his wonderful positive spirit. It is not the little things for which he will be best remembered. His spirit will always remain standing tall. Richard Ouellette, CEO of HAIelite and the Angles Beautycare Group notes, “Connie and I and all of us at HAIelite are truly saddened by the untimely death of Charles Spivey. We know that his family and friends will have our most sincere sympathies, from us and the entire professional beauty industry. Connie and I began our business relationship with Charles over 20 years ago, before our friendship blossomed so well. It was a privilege to have known Charles Spivey. We will never forget his extreme thoughtfulness and unending kindnesses. He was truly a Southern gentleman.” Richard Ouellette continues, “As a very refined gentleman, he was always so polite with his respectful ‘yes, sir’ and ‘no sir’ salutations. I know that all of us are extremely grateful for the many years we shared with Charles. He made friends with everyone. He made our professional salon community far richer for his having lived and shared so many rich moments with us. Charles was a very proud man. When there is mutual friendship, love and respect, any life Is too short. At age 61, Charles was just too young to leave us. He was so excited when his family recently came to see him here in San Diego. Everything seemed so right. In a short time, he wanted to show off and share his family with everyone else.” We shall all miss his smiling presence. To Charles Spivey – we salute you. You were a one-of-a-kind and you will be greatly missed by everyone!
23 The National Hair Journal Winter 2007
24 Hair Journal International Winter 2007
Hair Journal International is published Quarterly. Copyright Š 2007. Single copies of most past issues of The National Hair Journal are available prepaid at $10.00 per copy. Special issues are more. Hair Journal International serves primarily the hair replacement , hair restoration and personal enhancement industries. It sponsors conferences and trade events and produces analysis & marketing research on the hair replacement and restoration industries. Postmaster: Please send address changes to: Hair Journal International, LLC 39252 Winchester Rd., #107-383, Murrieta, CA 92563