2008 Fall

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Fashion

Marketing

Events

Education

Fashion Trends

Get Some New Ink

Hope For Our Hair

Yasas!

New looks for Fall & Winter

Larry Oskin reveals how to use PR like a pro.

Benefits of Laser Hair Therapy

Be part of the action Seen & Heard packed with events!

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Hair Journal International VOLUME 12 NO. 47

THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF HAIR FITNESS , REPLACEMENT AND RESTORATION

Bald Mice Get Lucky Study finds molecule triggers hair growth in mouse embryos Palo Alto, 08/08 - Comb-overs might not be the only solution for those who are losing their hair. A molecule that prompts hair follicle development in utero might one day be used to treat hair loss or combat excess hair growth. Scientists at the Stanford University School of Medicine used genetically engineered mouse embryos to demonstrate that the molecule, called laminin-511, signals embryonic stem cells in the skin to start

I Can’t Hair What You Say! The palms of your hands and the soles of your feet are the only exterior parts of your body where hair does not grow. But what about inside? Fine hair cells located in the inner ear are what let you listen to your iPod. But just like the hair on your head which is subject to chemical abuse and oxidation, the hairs of your in the ear can also be damaged. A recent study from the Archives of Internal Medicine found that hearing loss is becoming increasingly common in American adults. The study estimates that 16% of Americans have an impaired ability to hear speech and 30% of Americans over the age of 20 have lost some of their high-frequency hearing. As the world around us becomes a noisier place, hearing loss is expected to increase. Paradoxically, the more people use headsets to create their own private musical world, the more they risk exacerbating the problem. Simply put, when the hair cells in the in the ear get overstimulated, they stopped functioning due to metabolic exhaustion. Over time, this can lead to the death of the outer receptor hair cells. And until a new acoustic Sy Sperling comes along, there is no strand by strand hair system for these minute but vital hair cells.

RECESSION?

What recession? Hair Club Presses On Boca Raton Florida, 08/08 - While other hair management companies are cutting back, Hair Club for Men and Women is on a roll. After opening new centers in The Woodlands, Texas and Springfield, Missouri earlier this year, the company is in the middle of building out new locations in the Inland Empire (Ontario) California and a second salon in the Toronto metro area (Mississauga). Hair Club president, Darryll Porter, told The Journal, “We see opportunities for growth in expanding our hair transplant management business.” Hair Club now manages a network of hair transplant physicians in 42 locations and has operating room facilities in 20, including three in Canada. Hair Club added two more transplant surgeons to its medical network last month, one of them; the first graduate from Hair Club’s newly launched Comprehensive Hair Transplant Practice Training Program. Hair Club is the largest company in the hair restoration and hair replacement industry, with more than 90 locations throughout the United States, Canada and Puerto Rico. The company was founded in 1976 by Sy Sperling, known by the trademark phrase, “I’m not just the president, I’m also a client.”

growing hair. “Now we have a signal protein that can support the microenvironment for hair development, and maybe also for hair renewal,” said Jing Gao, MD, a postdoctoral scholar in epithelial biology. To deduce how hair follicles form, Gao compared skin from normal mouse embryos to skin from mouse embryos genetically engineered to be deficient in laminin-511. She observed changes in gene activity and skin structure as embryonic development progressed. Gao also developed a new assay, soaking pieces of skin in baths of signal molecules to check

IT’S HAIR-TIME! Beijing, China, 08/08 - Wu Dasheng, a local Beijing barber, did it his way! Dasheng offered boys in his neighborhood a free Olympic-

themed haircut featuring the Fuwa mascot. The first 27 haircuts were given free to show his support for the 2008 Olympic Games, but payments received after that were all donated to help survivors of the Sichuan earthquake.

World’s Biggest Wig Maker Gets Makeover Tokyo, 08/08 — The Aderans Holding Co new board of directors convened for the first time on Saturday, August 9 to formally approve the appointment of new president, Kiyoshi Hayakawa and seven new directors. This follows an unprecedented shareholder revolt in May led by Steel Partners, an offshore fund, when investors voted down the nominations of Aderans board members, including its president, Takayoshi Okamoto. This was the first time a foreign fund has ousted management at a publicly traded Japanese company. In open letters to Aderans, Steel Partners said it had lost confidence in management in view of declining performance during the previous five years and urged the company to review its marketing priorities. Aderans reported net income of ¥519 million ($5.6 million) for the year ending February 2008, a 90% decline from the ¥6.1 billion profit in 2006. The stock also lost 40% of its value in 2007. After evaluating the wig and hair restoration market, the new Aderans board decreased its financial forecast for the 2008 financial year by 78%, to a net income of $4.55 million. Sales forecasts in Japan were cut by ¥2.1 billion to 37.7 billion and Fontaine women’s wig income was cut by ¥1.3 billion to ¥11.3 billion. Aderans also reduced its US hair restoration forecast by ¥6 billion to ¥159.4 billion. Kiyoshi Hayakawa previously headed up Aderans subsidiary, Fontaine Co. The seven other Board of Directors include five executives from the Aderans side and two directors recommended by Steel Partners. Steel Partners remains the largest shareholder in Aderans Holdings with a stake of 27%.

which signals made hair grow. The new technique, which Peter Marinkovich, MD, associate professor of dermatology and a member of the Stanford Cancer Center characterized as “elegant and simple,” has already garnered attention from other scientists who study hair growth. Gao and Marinkovich say their work has implications beyond explaining how hair follicles mature. “Our finding that laminin-511 stimulates primary cilia formation was pretty surprising,” Gao said. Primary cilia, the cellular ‘antennae’ she observed, also help drive formation of the kidneys, craniofacial structures and limbs. By Erin Digitale, Office of Communication & Public Affairs, Stanford.

Hair Transplant Network Celebrates 10 Years Ten years ago Pat Hennessey, publisher of the Hair Transplant Network shared his ‘before and after’ hair transplant photos online and began offering advice to help men and women find quality transplant surgeons. Over time, other hair loss sufferers shared their experiences online also, and a new hair restoration forum was created. Today, the Network claims to have “Revolutionized how patients find and research the very best hair restoration treatments and physicians.” It also, “Holds physicians accountable for their work and requires them to meet the highest standards of care to win our support and business.” The idea of patients critiquing physicians and their work publicly was resisted by many physicians in the early days. Some doctors still resist and have even sued the Hair Transplant Network. However, the Network continues its mission undaunted and, in the words of Patrick Hennessy, it remains confident that, “The cream has risen to the top and …. physicians know that they must stay at the top of their game because their patients may be posting their experience within hours of their surgery.” The Hair Transplant Network has invited its active members to a celebratory dinner in Montreal, Canada on Thursday evening, September 4th during the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS) Annual Scientific Conference.

X-5 Laser In Clinical Trials Westport, CT. 08/08 - Spencer Forrest, distributor of the X5 hair laser, has begun multi-site clinical trials. The study seeks to prove that the device stimulates regrowth and retards hair loss in men with androgenetic alopecia. If successful, X5 will be the second hand-held laser device to be cleared by the FDA and the fourth product to be shown by the FDA to grow hair; the other products being HairMax LaserComb, 2007, Propecia ™ (finasteride 1 mg), 1997 and Rogaine (Minoxidil) 1996

FALL 2008

Transplanted To The Top Vice Presidential Candidate Joe Biden Draws Attention to Hair Restoration Cranston, Rhode Island, 08/08 - A quick look at political figures worldwide shows that many high profile leaders have had hair transplants to avoid baldness. Take Democrat Vice Presidential nominee, Senator Joe Biden of Delaware, for example, who famously underwent old-fashioned hair plug surgery and was widely referenced for it during the Anita Hill senate hearings. “The results of hair plug restoration techniques of yesteryear are not reflective of today’s hair restoration capabilities,” said Dr. Robert Leonard, past president of the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery. “But things have changed dramatically since then. I have just returned from a hair restoration workshop in Italy, where Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi has had great results with new hair restoration procedures. His transplants look natural, full and seamless.” Today there are new procedures that involve transplanting grafts of hair-bearing skin that contain only one to three hairs, a large improvement from the abandoned “hair plug” method where 25 to 30 hairs per graft were transplanted. Dr. Leonard is Medical Director of Leonard Hair Transplant Associates, with offices in Massachusetts, Rhode Island and New Hampshire.

And You Thought Your Laser Was Expensive! Hot on the heels of lasers that improve the quality and appearance of human hair comes a new generation of high-tech lasers for cellulite. Most devices combine an electric massager with a laser that stimulates cells under the skin to encourage the release of their fat contents. The result is a smoother skin surface with less “dimpling.” In fact, dimple-fee skin is so much in demand that a recent report estimates that the market for cellulite fighting equipment is expected to grow to $200 million a year by 2012. How much does a cellulite laser/massager cost? A cool $79,900 for the popular SmoothShapes device!

Hair Society Announces Faculty Murrieta, California. 08/08 – the National Hair Society, the hair loss industry’s premier cross-marketing and networking group, has announced the formation of a special educational faculty. Faculty members will share their expertise in different disciplines such as the ethnic market, laser therapy, attachment technology, cell multiplication and the special needs of the transgender population. Their technical articles will appear in Hair Journal International and will be archived in the ‘Education’ section of The National Hair Society website. Faculty members will also participate in online forums and discussion groups within the website and respond to visitors questions.


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It’s going to be Gillette – For some time now, I have been predicting that top personal care companies like Procter & Gamble and L'Oreal will be making a move into the thinning hair market. I just didn't know which of their multiple brands they would choose to use for the attack. Now it's becoming clear; and I’m ready to make my bet. It's going to be Gillette. Gillette is a guy’s brand and I’m predicting that the world’s largest personal care company will enter the thinning hair market through the men’s portal with a macho product. Gillette earned its stripes with hand-held safety razors and shaving accessories. It burnished its reputation by introducing a highly sophisticated five blade shaving system under the brand name Maxton, later adding a battery feature that made the razor vibrate for even greater efficiency. Gillette was acquired by Procter & Gamble in 2003 and P&G quickly set about capitalizing on its masculine image by launching several new personal care products for men. The latest of these is Gillette Dry Skin Hydrate & Body Wash, positioned as a defense against dry skin. Then there’s Gillette High Performance shampoo that lets you, "Take charge of your hair." Can a thinning hair product be far behind? Minorities become a majority in 15 years - what are you doing about it? If you have not invested in building a clientele among ethnic minorities, it's time to think again. Seismic shifts in the US population over the next four decades indicate that whites will make up a smaller and smaller portion of the population. In fact, whites are projected to become the new "minority" by 2042. By 2050, the Asian population will have risen from 5% to 9%, blacks will have risen to 15%, and Hispanics are projected to be the new "majority." If you can't wait to 2050 to see what these population changes mean, you can visit Los Angeles where whites already account for only 30% of the population. Orlando, Las Vegas, Miami and Denver are expected to follow as their white populations fall below 50% in the next two years. It is for these reasons, that The National Hair Society has invited a specialist to join its faculty and alert

Letters to the

Editor

Dear Editor, I have been a successful business owner for over 30 years and I would like to share a few things I have learned in my many years of experience. Never let your customers or non licensed professionals get to know your trade secrets. Recently I have come across a few people/organizations who were trying to take away my business and find out information they should not know. In this case, it was the wholesale prices I pay for wigs and the names of the distributer. Neither my distributer nor my guest did the right thing. I was dismayed by some of the sneaky things that went on in my salon. That leads to my next point; beware of organizations that claim to be “not for profit” and come to your salon for help raising money or asking you to donate your time and products. I was approached

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people to the needs and sensitivities of people of color. She will work with us to help stylists of all backgrounds build the skills necessary to meet the expectations of the new majority. Look for her first article in the Winter edition Hair Journal International. Good-Bye Free-Loaders; Hello Fresh Blood! If you are one of the few Hair Journal readers who never paid their subscription, the free ride is over. We can’t ask other subscribers to carry you on their shoulders any longer. The Journal has recently finished updating and expanding its mailing list and has added a thousand new names to the salons that are actively engaged in thinning hair services. Over the next few weeks we will be replacing nonsubscribers with fresh young blood. Turnover is healthy in any business and we wish our latest readers good fortune. If you are not sure of your own subscription status, email Subscriptions@nationalhairjournal.com or call client service director, Heather Simon at 951-5710-3209. In this issue - As I travel around the country and talk to clients and business owners, I keep hearing that the thinning hair market is really the “Keep looking my best” market. And people who want to look terrific see hair as just one part of a “wardrobe” of products and services. In this issue, in addition to our traditional content, we also talk about advances in light therapy and eye brow and eyelash enhancement. In short, it's not just about hair anymore. As multiple hairloss solutions become more commonplace, the need for information and professional networking increases. Next week, I travel to Montréal to attend the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery 2008 Annual Scientific Conference and, I will learn about the latest cell-multiplication research and new medical procedures that can help men and women everywhere look better. If it’s important to your clients and patients, The Journal will always be there to bring you the news. We are proud to be your compass to navigate these changing seas.

Chris Webb

Editor-in-Chief

by a not for profit organization and asked to not only host an event but also to donate a $3,000 wig. In fact, not only was I expected to donate and design the wig, but I was also asked to contact other local businesses and get them to donate things for the organization’s raffle. This was fine with me at first; I was more than happy to help with this event to help Alopecia women feel better about themselves. This is what I do all day long in my hair replacement studio. The time came and the winner of the wig was a newcomer to alopecia. We had a total image party and I delivered her wig to her. The founder of the organization also attended the event, and from then on it was nothing but people trying to do deals behind my back. She promoted another wig distributor besides raving about a ‘celebrated stylist’ who would cut any wig for $500. I never got any recognition for designing the beautiful custom made wig or hosting the event or for donating all the money to the organization. We raised $800 plus donations to give to the origination and not a word of thanks! Lucinda Beaty


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Keep It Simple By Tony Marino

recent survey of the hair replacement industry produced some interesting, and somewhat disturbing results. It took place over one year and the report indicated that some of our industry giants had lost dozens of locations and seen their annual revenues plummet. Yet, other hair replacement organizations continued to flourish and grow every day. Why?

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As someone who has closely observed this gradual but constant movement in the industry, I believe the answer can be summarized in one word, “attitude.” I have spoken with hundreds of hair replacement professionals in the past few years and witnessed firsthand the information they have been offered regarding possible new sources of revenue for their stores. Some owners sat with arms folded and never responded, while others complained that the changes would damage their existing business. On one occasion, the audience all but produced the proverbial hook, as in vaudeville days, to drag the guest speaker from the podium! Then there were the others who took the time to learn about new hair loss treatment programs and products which could benefit their “bottom line.” They knew that their businesses must change and grow with the times. They understood that progress and opportunity will not stop and wait for you to jump aboard.

efit of your client, it’s simply a cold laser that does not have the ability to cut tissue or cause damage of any kind. FDA results confirmed that in 93% of case studies, the tested laser (HairMax LaserComb) achieved positive results in controlling hair loss and stimulating hair growth. The percentage of increased circulation to the scalp and hair follicle was 54 %. Last but not least, this same laser concept is used by physicians and surgeons to accelerate the stimulation of tissue and rejuvenate cells for faster healing. Hence, whether it is a commitment by the client to visit the laser center every few days for a session under a hooded unit, or perhaps the purchase of a hand held unit used in a more convenient setting, the advent of this technology has made a dramatic impact on the treatment of hair loss. I should add at this juncture that there are some people who have entered clinical hair loss treatment and continue to operate using “old school” hair replacement business practices. Don’t exaggerate the concept so that you can charge the client exorbitant sums of money for something that is extremely cost effective in generating revenue, followed by the old “finance the deal” closing tactic. This is a personal and an emotional purchase decision for the client and should be handled in a professional manner with the highest standard of integrity.

One such opportunity was the possibility of treating hair loss prior to the need for a hair replacement unit. Some owners said that providing a service that prevents hair loss would be tantamount to “killing my own business.” But smarter managers knew that opposite was true.

Topically Applied Treatment Product Again, for the client’s sake, keep it simple. They need a product, which dissolves or removes DHT build-up on the scalp. They need a product proven to dilate blood vessels, penetrate the surface layers of skin and deliver materials known to contain hair growth nutrients. It truly is as simple as that, or we begin to look like the old blue suede shoes salesman of yesteryear.

I understand that many programs presented to you, especially laser therapy, may have fallen short of your expectations. But that is likely due to your marketing and support, not a failure of this important technology. As a professional with many years of experience, allow me to simplify the process and get you back on track.

Men in particular want a simple straightforward synopsis of their hair loss condition and a convenient, reasonably priced solution. If all you do is copy the above referenced causes of hair loss and available remedies and share it with your clients, you will have provided them with a personal service which can ultimately benefit you and your client.

First of all, do not be confused by all the technical claims by manufacturers, whether they are offering you topically applied liquids or laser equipment. When a client comes into a professional hair loss treatment center and questions what is available to stop hair loss, they want a simple, clear answer. It’s like asking “what time is it?” and being told for thirty minutes how to build a watch. They don’t need to hear every single last detail on how the laser is built, why this many diodes are better that that many diodes or how it affects the androgen receptors, the 5 alpha reductase (5AR) Enzyme, the cortex, the medulla and the amblangota… Ever noticed clients with a glazed look as though they have absolutely no remote idea of what you’re talking about? You know why they look like that? Because they really don’t know what you’re talking about. Keep it simple!

Don’t allow yourself to become one of the industry casualties because some of the changes needed to grow and succeed seem too overwhelming and or expensive. My experience has been that a nicely packaged set of equipment, initial product and a consultation-training manual can be purchased for under $15,000 with an anticipated return of your investment in the first six months. Keep it simple, and keep it cost effective for you and your business.

What they do know is that theirs is falling out; or has fallen out. They know you’re the professional and they trust you. That having been said……share with them the simple truth, which is this: Cause of Hair Loss There are a number of factors that may contribute to hair loss; medical illness and dietary issues, certain prescription medications, predisposition by natural aging and the production of DHT. Statistically, 99% of hair loss clients seen in treatment centers today fall into one of these categories. There is no need to make more out of it than it is, just state the facts as you know them. Available Remedies The Food and Drug Administration recently approved the use of Low Level Light Therapy, also often referred to as cold lasers, soft lasers, biostimulation, photobiomodulation and perhaps a few others. For the ben-

I trust that some of the information contained in this commentary will be of benefit and value to my colleagues in the hair replacement industry, and I wish you all well. Tony Marino Tony Marino has been directly involved with hair loss solutions for twenty-five years and in addition to established procedures, he has also studied Low Level Light Therapy as a hair-care regimen. He received his Barber & Cosmetology license in 1969 and quickly created his own hair design center. His success led to requests for consulting services, and for the next ten years he organized and conducted educational seminars for hair grooming professionals. In 1974, Tony applied his skills to the development and manufacture of professional hair grooming products, at one time being responsible for over 60% of all products used in the hair replacement industry. Tony is an associate member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, a group of industry professionals that reviews new materials and cosmetic formulas for consideration of use in the industry. He is also a member of the International Cosmetic Manufacturers & Distributors Association which governs rules and regulations relative to the international trading of professional hair goods.


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How to become a better Hair Extension Specialist! Part I By Bobbi Russell

I want to express how exciting it is to be part of the new education faculty for the National Hair Journal and The National Hair Society. It’s always so exciting to be given the opportunity to share some of the amazing knowledge that I learn every day. I am also looking forward to the education that I will receive from this incredible group of professionals. I opened my studio over three years ago and I have been transported to a new level. Owners… I bow down to you. This is hard stuff!!! I am not complaining. I have enjoyed the challenge. I really love what I do. I want to say it again so I know everyone understands how much I mean it. I LOVE what I do and I feel so blessed to be in this industry. I am so glad it chose me. I am going to write a series of articles on hair extensions. I think we have reached a point where most hair replacement studios or hair salons are doing some type of hair extensions. If you are not, it won’t be long before you do. Hair Extensions are hot! Everybody knows about them now. The secret is out. Most stars are wearing them. Full beautiful hair is now a standard and a must have. The problem is… A one or two day class can not teach you what you need to know to be really good at the art of hair extensions. There is so much more to it than just learning how to put them on. If you are currently doing hair extensions then I hope I can help you learn a few new things, if you are not, save these articles because someday you might need them. I am going to do a two- part series on how to become a better hair extension specialist. This is part one. The information I will share with you is from the school of hard knocks. 20 years ago when I first started doing hair extensions there was no one to teach me how to apply them. I learned from trial and error. LOTS of trial and LOTS of error. Let’s consider this series your “advanced hair extensions class”. Ok let’s get started. Never use just one color. Hair is multidimensional. They way light changes and reflects off the hair will show any and all imperfections. This is achieved the easiest by choosing at least three colors. First shade is the base color. This color is usually more dominatant on the underside of the hair. Second shade is the mid-strand color. Usually not as dominatant but extremely important in bringing together a very natural look. Third and final shade is the ends color. This is your most dominatant color because this is the hair that will lay on top of your new extensions. Really look at all the different colors in the hair. You will be surprised what you see. Never extend hair that is shorter than 4 inches. If you think you’re that good, go ahead, but the rule will usually be right. Remember Britney’s hair? As an artist, all we have is our reputation. It is your walking billboard. You want the hair extensions that you do to always look their best. Texturize blunt lines. The best way to achieve perfect results with this is to texturize as you go. Starting at the bottom, in the weight line blend out each section individually before you put that row of hair in. Doing this achieves the most invisible extensions possible. There is nothing worse than hair extensions that are shaped like a mushroom and the natural hair sticks out like a sore thumb.

Never put strand on strand extensions closer than ?” from the scalp. I know that a lot of people have a different opinion about this, but let me explain why I know that this is important. Experience. Thousands of Bobbi Russell heads. Lots of practice. ?’ from the scalp in the proper flow will put less tension on the follicles and therefore, less hair is lost in the process. Natural hair should look just as good if not better when you take out the extensions; not thinner and broken. If this is happening to your clients, you need to re-think the way you are doing things. Practice, Practice, Practice!!!! It really does make perfect. Your paying clients deserve nothing less. My poor staff must hate me sometimes. I teach them a hair extensions class, then they are expected to practice till their application is perfect. Then they are tested for timing and accuracy. Then they are tested under pressure. No mercy. Hair extensions have been given a bad reputation because it is not taken seriously and as a result hair is damaged and or lost. Beware of baby fine hair. Kitten Fur. We all know what I am talking about. This type of hair is trouble, and has sent me home in tears swearing I would never do another hair extension as long as I lived. Kind of like tequila! Make sure you give your perspective hair extension client a scalp test. Pinch a ?” square section of hair close to the scalp. Give a slight tug. If the natural hair pulls easily away from the scalp with no hair loss you are probably ok. But if the scalp does not give way and the hair does not move, this is a big red flag! This client will most likely have scalp rejection and hair loss will occur. Not always, but it’s not worth the risk. Consider an alternate attachment method like seamless extensions or integration systems. Do not put extensions on someone who is losing their hair. This is a hair replacement client and the rules change. Attaching hair extensions to someone who is losing their hair will cause them to lose more! Learn and understand all the different causes of hair loss so that you can identify the problem. Recommend they always see a doctor to make sure there is not an underlying medical problem. Learn more than one method of attachment. There are so many different ways to apply hair extensions, (strand on strand bonding, weaving, linking, seamless, shrinkies, skin grafting, fiber hair, clip ins, double hair, micro point, interlocking, just to name a few) Learn as many ways as you can so you will never lose a client. No one method is right for everyone. Education, Education, Education!!!! Learn how to do hair replacement or find someone you trust to send them to. Making a consultation appointment is a really big deal for a person that is losing their hair. They don’t always know that hair extensions are not a solution for them. If you cannot help them and you send them away, it could be years before they find the courage to consult with someone again. They are very vulnerable and need to know that you want to help them one way or another. CYA!!! Give excellent written care instructions. This is so important for so many reasons. Verbally go over each step with your client before they leave the studio/salon so that you know that they truly understand each instruction. They are usually so excited about their new hair that they are not really paying attention to you anyway. Have them sign a copy to keep in their file so you can reference any problems in the future. Example, if the client says, “You never told me that!” Follow-up. Always have your client return for a check-up visit. The success of their new extensions depends on it. Two weeks is usually a good time frame. Ask them how they are doing. Problem solve with them about any challenging situations they may be having. Some of these clients have never had long hair before. If they are a successful extension-wearer, they will continue to wear them. Follicle addicted clients come back over and over again. I have several hair extension clients that I have been with me for over 20 years. They are known for their gorgeous tresses and wouldn’t be caught dead without them. Hair Extensions are wonderful and do not cause damage to the hair if three very important things are done: Apply them correctly; put


7 Hair Journal International Fall 2008 the right attachment method on the right person. Really know what you are doing. Proper maintenance must be followed by the client and a clear understanding of what that is must be explained and understood. Removals must be done with care by an experienced technician. A lot of damage can happen to the natural hair during the removal process if proper care is not taken. Take your time and do it right. Well I hope that these facts helped you out some. I have so much more to share but it will have to wait till the next time. Happy extending!!!! Bobbi Russell - “Master hair Additions Specialist.” Nationally recognized educator, speaker and platform artist with over 20 years of hair extension and Women’s Hair loss solutions experience, Bobbi will share with you her extensive knowledge of this exciting yet challenging industry. Owner and operator of Hair Therapy for Women in Tampa, Bobbi continues to learn and teach new methods of hair additions to her staff and to hair designers all over the world. To say she has a passion for this industry is an understatement.

IDENTIFYING THE WOMEN’S WIG MARKET By Dawn Harrison You have made the decision to carry women’s wigs at your studio. Understanding this market is key to developing a rewarding, lucrative profit center. There are three distinct markets: “THE NEED”, the “BUSY Dawn Harrison PROFESSIONAL” and the “FASHION” segments. You may opt to target all three markets simultaneously. Let’s begin with a few basic principles: • Your wig advertisement • Front end lead management • Being prepared Your studio’s ad, whether it’s online or in print, must display a well lighted, close up and dramatic “before and after” photograph of the type of target client you wish to attract. Whatever need, age, ethnicity, hair color, and style you display in your photo is going to heavily influence the type of client you are going to attract. You must have a “lead management” system in place at your front desk to capture information about the callers who respond to your ads. Your Lead Intake Form will be a combination questionnaire, answers to FAQ’S, and bullet points which outline the benefits to the caller for choosing your studio. The purpose of the form is to obtain facts about the leads’ needs, occupation, motivation, expectations, concerns, hobbies, lifestyle, age, medical conditions, hair type, hair loss, hair history, hair color, length, style and budget. This gathering of data is extremely useful for the consultant in preparation for the face-to-face sales presentation. In preparation for your consultation, have all your sales tools on hand, such as: • Lead Intake Form • Before and after photos • Measuring tape • Manufacturers catalogs and color rings • Estimate form and calculator • Wigs to try on (most important) Direct your prospective clients’ attention to the pages of your portfolio showcasing wigs. If you don’t have your own photos, obtain them from your manufacturer. Have wigs on hand in your client’s own hair color and style. Have all applicable color rings out with separated swatches that match her hair color. Have your manufacturers’ catalogs opened to the wig pages. Take a perimeter measurement of her head; it will instantly make your selec-

tion process much easier. Be sure to have your wigs precut, colored and styled attractively to help your client imagine what she will look like with her new hair. Have an estimate form next to you to record the specifications, style names and prices of her top picks. “The ‘Need’ client A woman in “need” of hair will become your most loyal client. She feels she can no longer leave her home without wearing hair. She just wants to appear normal and natural. She will take extra special care of her hair, as if it were her new best friend. She will do everything you ask her to do and will purchase every hair care product you prescribe to her. It took her years to finally do something about her hair loss, now that she’s found you; she will never go back to the old self. You will change her life positively and exponentially forever. The Need client typically has experienced one or more of the following causes of hair loss: • Severe hereditary hair loss • Chronic baby fine hair • Chemotherapy • Radiation • Alopecia • Trichotillomania • Transgender • Scarring • Rapid weight loss • Trauma stress Need clients generally have very sparse hair. Choosing a cap design that is made with comfortable base materials is crucial in avoiding irritation to her skin. Since she has so little hair, select a cap that fits well. Many manufacturers carry what the medical field refers to as “Full Cranial Prostheses”, which are specifically designed with the Need client in mind. Cranial Prosthetics are more fitted, lighter weight, hand tied, very breathable and have skin like tape areas around the perimeter for adhesive or tape attachment. Since a Need client has very little hair, select wigs and prosthetics that have skin areas along the front and temples. This is in case she may need the added security which adhesives and tape can deliver. The sides, above the ears, are good locations for small to medium size comb clips. Human v/s Synthetic? Need hair wearers will be wearing their wigs 6-12 hours a day, seven days a week. Some will wear their wigs the rest of their lives. I strongly recommend human hair over synthetic fiber for several reasons. You can easily change the color to match their current hair color. They can use a blow dryer, curling iron or flat iron whenever needed. Human hair looks and feels much more natural and is widely available in 100% hand tied, mono topped, lace front designs, which feature skin base materials along the front/ temples. Also, retailing human hair wigs is much more profitable for your studios’ bottom line, and sets you apart from the “inexpensive, nonlicensed” wig stores in town. The best and only time I recommend a synthetic wig, is when a client is physically challenged and desires a short hair style. Synthetic fiber is easy to care for, requiring very little styling finesse on your clients’ part. Do not carry synthetic wigs in your studio. Today, the Internet has changed the wig business; 95% of synthetic wig wearers are shopping at brick and mortar wig stores, only to make their purchases online. Online wig distributors offer wigs at a retail price below what you can buy them for wholesale, then offer a discount or free shipping on top of that. Your studio cannot compete with the internet. There is one exception, “Cyberhair,” “It not only looks and feels like human hair; it is heat-resistant, durable and colorfast. Cyberhair is ‘synthetically created hair fibers’ derived from nylon. It swims, it saunas, and when exposed to sun or heat, it will not fade, or loose curl and is surprisingly lightweight and cool. As a result of a new technology engineered by Aderans, the world’s largest manufacturer of retail hair systems, Cyberhair is able to recreate the surface texture of human hair.” nhj The average wholesale price range of stock human hair wigs and prostheses range from $150.00-$450.00. You should multiply your wholesale price 4-10 times depending on your overhead and cost of goods. Or, keep it simple and add $1,200.00 to your wholesale price; you’ll be assured (cont.on pg.9)

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8 Hair Journal International Fall 2008

Hair Journal International PROMOTING

Medical Section

COOPERATION BETWEEN THE ARTISTRY OF HAIR REPLACEMENT AND THE SCIENCE OF HAIR RESTORATION therapy stimulates protein synthesis in the scalp which may make the hair fuller, thicker and healthier. Cool lasers don’t damage tissue and have been given FDA approval for safety and cosmetic use. The client is first examined under a hair-cam computer, allowing the technician to determine if there are living follicles under the epidermis. If living follicles are clearly seen, we have life, and life means we can regrow hair in about 45 to 65% of the cases we see. If however, the follicle has died, there is nothing that can be done.

There Is Hope for Our Hair By Marilyn Wayne

The physical and emotional scarring caused by hair loss affects over 60 million men, women and children of all ages, color and social status according to the American Academy of Dermatology. Whether hair loss is caused by tight braiding, hormone imbalance, over or under active thyroid, estrogen, progesterone, testosterone, over production of DHT, Androgen disorders, allergies, smoking, drinking, dieting, menopause, childbirth, stress, auto immune diseases (Alopecia Areata, Lupus, Arthritis) hair dyes, heredity, I could fill the New York phone book, but the bottom line is….. we all want our hair! Until recently, just in the past five or so years, we relied on topical creams, ointments, hair vitamins, fast talking quack fixer uppers, glue on cover-ups, (DON’T do this), hair transplants, scalp shrinking and then the forever good doer who convinces you some cow dung mixed with oil of Yucca with fix you right up. We go to doctors, we feel like screaming at them when they say condescending things like, “Just be glad you don’t have anything serious.” Serious? But this is serious….deaf ears usually tune us out. Most doctors never studied hair loss in medical school, so how can we expect them to help us. Sadly, that opens the door for every quack to come up with a miracle “cure.” There is NO cure for baldness. What we do have is technology that has been FDA approved to stop hair loss and in an overwhelming number of cases, regrow lost hair. Women generally choose scarves, hair pieces and

The client sits under a revolving dome for 30 minutes twice a week in a medical facility. 30 laser diodes circulate the scalp, passing beams of light through the skin’s surface, stimulating life-giving blood flow, bringing oxygen, collagen and nourishment to the weak or dying follicle. Hair stops falling out and new healthy hair grows in. The Hair Max Laser Comb may be an option to the dome and can be sold to your clients for home use. It has received FDA clearance as the only device in the market shown to grow hair. FDA studies indicated that the Hair Max Comb increased the number of thick hairs in 93% of the 120 men studied over a 26 week trial. wigs to cover the damage of hair loss. These “covers” may hide the head, but they do nothing to help the embarrassment and aloneness. Desolation is better than embarrassment, and if a relationship becomes serious, the thought of whipping off a wig and yelling “Surprise” would cause even the most secure among us to pull the covers over our head. More than half our clients are women. I will write more extensively in future articles about women and hair loss, as that’s an issue I have personally suffered through. But I digress.

What are the benefits of Laser Hair Therapy?

Married women don’t suffer emotionally quite as much, particularly if they have a supportive mate. Nevertheless, our self esteem, sex appeal and love lives suffer terribly. Is there an answer?

• Increase blood supply to the scalp. Every liv ing thing needs oxygen or it dies. • Stops progression of hair loss. • Stimulates regrowth of hair. • Repairs and improves hair shaft quality and volume. • Dramatically prolongs the life of hair color and perms. • Cures irritating scalp conditions. • No side effects. • Works from the inside out, not from the top down (I.E. Minoxidil). • Results generally seen in six months. • Both men and women respond extremely well.

Daily we research this amazing technology called Low Level Laser Light Therapy (LLLTA3). New to the United States, using a non-surgical scientific approach to stopping hair loss, baldness and other problems associated with the scalp. Laser light

Not everyone is a candidate, so a free consultation is suggested, using computers to monitor individual progress and success. Word of caution: Since the beginning of time people have come up with crazy ways to regrow hair, so antic-

ipate sharp questions from your clients. Go to the web and read up on Trichology, the study of hair and scalp diseases. Ne ready to answer questions like, “Are you a Trichologist? How long have you been studying hair? May I speak with other clients you have treated?” How long does all this take and what are the costs? The time frame to achieve the kind of success that satisfies a client can vary considerably. We’ve seen remarkable results in only 13 treatments on a client who I suspected would be with us for a year. As for the cost, it cost varies with the time spent. We typically enroll a client in a fixed-term program that includes a start-up regimen and a maintenance program. You do not want your client to stop the treatment just when he/she is beginning to see results. One comprehensive program might cost $3,275 for 72 treatments, or $46 per visit, but we may begin to see results after 13 visits. So the client has paid $591 to jump-start his hair growth, and will pay $2683 to keep it coming. This compares favorably with the cost of buying and maintaining a hair system and is a fraction of the cost of cosmetic surgery. Last but not least, NEVER allow chlorine to do anything but flush the toilet! Marilyn Wayne – Owner and President of Hair Solutions of South Bay - After spending over 30 years in the Financial Services Industry (she began her career when she was 5), Marilyn sold her business and decided to reinvent herself. Marilyn is president of Hair Solutions of South Bay, located in Torrance, CA and has been treating clients using Low Level Cool Lasers for three years. “I believe very strongly in this science. I’ve seen amazing results using Low Level Cool Lasers to stop hair loss and regrow healthy, thicker hair. There is nothing as rewarding as seeing a client go from tears to laughter when they regrow their hair.” Marilyn has recently developed a program for US Veterans, donating her lasers to be used by our men and women experiencing thinning hair. “If there’s life on that head, there is hair to be grown, and working with the Veterans is my way of thanking them.” “This is still a cottage industry” but Marilyn believes as people become more familiar with the success stories, Low Level Cool Lasers will become one of the greatest inventions of the century.


9 Hair Journal International Fall 2008

Alopecia is not Selective Alopecia is not selective when it strikes. Victims can lose hair anywhere on their bodies, including their eyebrows and eyelashes. Some people lose all their hair including the hair in the nose and ears. This is called alopecia totalis. Of course, the most visible hair loss is the thick abundant hair on the top of the head and this can be devastating, especially in today’s society where strong shiny hair, is taken to imply good health and attractiveness. Modern hair additions and extensions can hide or camouflage most hair loss, and some of the new wig designs are very sophisticated, incorporating the latest styles and fashions. But for people who have lost their eyebrows and eyelashes, there have been few solutions. A handful of cosmetic surgeons offer eyebrow and even eyelash transplants. This is a delicate procedure requiring a high degree of professional skill but for those fortunate enough to be able to afford it, the results can be impressive. For others, a cosmetic solution is often the only answer. Permanent makeup has been gaining in popularity and is now entering the mainstream as an enhancement procedure for women who wish to leave nothing to chance — or people like alopecia victims who have special needs. Recently, a California company, Jim Marini Skin Research, launched a new product, “age intervention eyelash,” to address thinning and missing eyelashes. Marini, a product researcher for over 30 years, developed this product to answer a very personal issue: Marini’s own struggle with alopecia areata. “Eyelash extensions were not an option because there wasn’t hair to affix the glue for the extension.” Alopecia areata - affects an estimated 4 million Americans of both sexes and of all ages and ethnic backgrounds. While scientists do not know why this immune disease happens, the incidence of alopecia appears to be on the rise. Having successfully developed solutions for hair loss on the head, isn’t it time for professionals now to examine the last frontier; eyebrow HJI and eyelash loss?

Identifying The Women’s Wig Market (cont. from pg. 7) a handsome profit and you’ll be within a reasonable price range. Thankfully, today there are now stock Ultra Premium human hairwigs available in Remi, European and Russian hair. These wigs range wholesale; $500.00- $1500.00, and will sell for a retail price of $2000.00-$3500.00 to your discriminating clients. “The Busy Professional” The busy professional woman often wakes up at 3:00am to catch the early flight to a humid, rainy or windy city, where, after only 3 hours of sleep, she must look stunning for a 7:00am breakfast meeting, catch a taxi curbside to give a luncheon presentation uptown, followed by happy hour cocktails poolside, dinner at 8:00pm and power networking until midnight. Next week, she gets to take her long awaited cruise vacation, where her role shifts to trophy wife. Days filled with speed boats, catamarans, parasailing, zip-lining, swimming and spa treatments leave little to no time for daily shampoo/blow styles. Pool aerobic class is quickly followed by happy-hour on the beach, wine tasting and dinner in the captain’s lounge, then tango lessons and a photo op under the stars. Although our Busy Professional has hair, it will not stand up to her demanding schedule. Even if it could, she does not have the time, nor is it her priority to dress her own natural hair. She is often in a different location, meeting different people throughout her week. The Busy Professional Woman seeks a practical, fast, simple, convincing and stylish hair style. She’s open to different colors and styles and usually will pay whatever you ask for your top per-

forming wigs and excellent customer services. She too will be very loyal because she doesn’t have the time or inclination to “break in” a new hair management professional. Even if she moves out of state, she’ll still order her wigs from you because it’s more efficient. Since she has hair, it’s a great idea to position her wig slightly back from her front hairline, revealing some of her natural hair. This looks extremely natural and gives her confidence during face to face meetings. Additionally, this gives you the opportunity to custom color the roots and front of the wig to match her hair color. Depending on how much hair she has, select a cap with enough stretch to accommodate her own hair tucked or pin-curled underneath. My favorite attachment method in this scenario is a plastic “zig zag” comb, sewn on, in 4” widths across the front and nape base materials. This method is very secure, especially if she teases her natural hair, front and back prior to sliding the zig zag combs into her hair. “Zig zags are sold at Wal Mart as headbands in the barrette area. Cut the full length band into 4” sections and hand sew with clear monofilament thread. This will avoid imparting damaging tension on her natural hair. With a few simple round brushing or flat irons lessons from you, this busy professional woman will look smarter, younger, be more confident and have more time to devote to business as usual, all thanks to you. “The Fashion Client” The fashion wig client doesn’t need, she wants hair. She likes lots of attention and will take whatever measures are necessary to get “the look” she wants. She’s usually 20-30 something, attractive, with a beautiful figure; very trendy and glamorous. She studies the pages of fashion and hair magazines to see what the

celebrities are wearing. She’s quite particular about the length, thickness, color and style right down to the details of every piece of fringe around her face. The Fashion client usually brings multiple pictures with her to the consultation, so you should show her wigs that have been “glamed up”. When she tries on your wigs, she’ll want to brush them herself and will always jump out of the chair to prance around the room in front of the mirror, pressing her lips together in the sexiest pose she can make. Ask her to show you how many different ways she wants to wear her new hair, then assist her in the simple lessons of pinning, ironing and spraying to achieve “her look”. Don’t assume you’ll know how she’ll wear her new hair! Price is always the biggest hurdle for the fashion client. She “wants” more than she can afford. Choose affordable wigs with mono tops- but with machine-made sides and backs, to save her money. Don’t accept a check from this client. If she “wants” it badly enough, she’ll find the cash. Secure this wig with zig-zag combs also, but reinforce the wigs security with either large comb clips and/or bobby pins on the sides, as she may be very active in her wig such as; dancing, modeling, entertaining, acting, mechanical bull riding and wearing her wig to bed. The Fashion client will be very hard on her wig, yet will view her purchase as a major investment, be sure to show her how to detangle, deep condition and store her wig properly to insure that you are her “go to” hair management professional for all of her future additions to her Fashion hair wardrobe. No matter which market you choose to target,

having a basic understanding of how each segment differs and being prepared will surely advance your studio towards its of goal of attracting the woman’s wig market. Dawn Harrison - Dawn is a top designer and educator with over 25 years experience. She owns multiple patents for her designs and nonsurgical hair graft technology and is heavily involved in new product research. She has successfully owned and operated four hair additions studios and continues to volunteer for the “Look Good, Feel Better” chapter of the American Cancer Society. Dawn is a Faculty member of The National Hair Society and is in high demand as a consultant and coach to women’s hair loss studio owners.

Olympics Admits Propecia User Beijing, China. 08/08 - In a reversal of previous policy, the Olympic committee has allowed the Israeli sailing sportsman, Udi Gal, to participate in the Beijing Olympic Games in spite of testing positive for the use of the finasteride drug, Propecia. The World Anti-Doping Authority (WADA) decided to allow him to participate after reviewing the facts and deciding that there was no evidence to suggest that he had been taking Propecia to enhance his sailing performance. Because of the effectiveness of Propecia in halting hair loss, and in view of its widespread usage, a number of sporting organizations have been calling for Propecia to be taken off the list of banned substances for professional athletes. By a strange coincidence, the 2008 sailing Olympics will take place in Qingdao, the world center of hair HJI replacement research and production.


10 Hair Journal International Fall 2008

BRANDING Your STUDIO How do you do it and what are the benefits? By Steven DiManni In the last decade, no marketing buzzword has been bandied about as much as “branding”. It’s used by everyone from marketing directors of Fortune 500 companies to the owner of the used car dealership on the corner. But what, truly, is branding? How does it work? And will it work for a local studio in the hair replacement industry? Definitions of branding Today, what used to be called “image” advertising is now called branding. What used to be called general advertising, meaning a regular product ad, is also called branding. So too, is a logo displayed at point of sale. A banner ad on the internet can also be considered branding. Premiums, such as coffee mugs and ballpoint pens that are emblazoned with a company logo, or even just its name, are considered branding efforts, as well. Want to get even more esoteric? An “on hold” message is considered part of the branding process. So is packaging. The customer service department of a company has branding implications. Even the rack that holds products displayed in a retail store can be construed as branding. The real definition, or rather the umbrella that ties all these efforts together, is consumer touch points. Whenever and wherever the consumer interacts with your product or service is part of branding. What is a brand? One of the best definitions I ever heard is that a brand is what consumers say about your product or service behind your back. How do they regard it? What are their expectations about it? What are the positives and negatives? More scholarly definitions of a brand involve its position in the consumer’s mind versus competitive products or services. It can also be argued that a brand is the perceived “personality” of a product or service. Whatever its definition, there’s no doubt that branding is not only a hot topic, it’s also a valued entity. There are brand consultancies today that never existed even a decade ago. They charge companies huge sums of money in order to teach them how to brand, or rebrand, their product or service. Let me try to do the same for you. Without sending you a bill, of course. The value of a brand A brand is worth money. Perhaps even more than the physical plant that produces it and the network that distributes it. Consider that there are companies like Jeffery Martin, Inc., that spend large amount of money to buy “old” brands, such as Ovaltine chocolate drink mix or Gold Bond medicated powder or Surf laundry detergent. Companies like Jeffery Martin aren’t buying the formula for such products or the factory that makes them. They could care less. They are buying the rights to the brand name. Why? Because in their estimation, there is enough equity in that brand to make it appeal to consumers again provided it is given the right support in the marketplace. Take Gold Bond, for instance. Its name was well recognized, particularly among older consumers, when it was purchased. Yes, its sales were sliding, it was considered an out-of-date, “old person’s product”, and the conventional wisdom was that it was a dying product. But the folks at Jeffery Martin saw it differently. They saw a product that despite its fail-

ing sales still had a loyal following. And a good reputation. And a recognizable name. So they went to work on revitalizing it. First, they launched a modest Steven DiManni (budget-wise) but well targeted campaign to key prospects for the product, while at the same time, reinforcing its value to current users. Then they started to increase the brand’s utility by suggesting other uses for it other than the conventional ones. Next, they started moving their advertising message to different audiences that research had shown were potential Gold Bond users. They started modifying their advertising approach to reach these new potential customers. As sales started to rise, they had increased their leverage (and distribution) with the grocery and drug store trade. Finally, they came out with line extensions of the mother product. This got them more SKUs (placement) in stores, which further increased the products’ visibility beyond advertising alone. Today, Gold Bond has multiplied its sales tenfold since it was first purchased. And in so doing, the Gold Bond brand’s value has increased similarly. Now consider this: If Gold Bond had no loyal following and no name recognition, no one would have purchased it. Its sales would have just gone down and down until retailers took it off their shelves; the brand, or in this case, non-brand, would have died a slow but inevitable death. Some common misconceptions There are as many misconceptions about branding as there are definitions. One of my favorite is when a company comes out with a new product or service, hires a graphics firm to design a logo, gives the product or service a name, and then refer to it as a brand. But it’s not a brand at all if it has no awareness and occupies no place in the consumer’s mind. For example, Hugo Boss is a brand, a big name in fashion. But if some “garmento” on New York’s Seventh Avenue (the Garment District) comes out with a line of men’s suits called “Sidney Schwartz”, it’s not a brand. No one’s ever heard if it, there’s no perceived value, it’s nothing but cloth held together with thread and emblazoned with a label. The point is, there is no brand unless it has awareness: good, bad or otherwise. Awareness can be achieved in a number of ways: through advertising, through public relations or even through just dumb luck; if a big celebrity was spotted wearing a Sidney Schwartz original and the gossip magazines picked it up, well, there’s your awareness. Another away to achieve awareness is through a solid “push” strategy. Maybe Sidney Schwartz hires a high profile sales team to sell the line to major stores and perhaps the sales team is successful. As distribution increased, as the sales team “sold” the brand to the retailer’s salespeople, as the salespeople then “sold” the brand, literally, to consumers, well, then awareness would be achieved. In every of the aforementioned cases, with the exception of dumb luck, much expense and time must be expended to create a brand. And even then, there’s no guarantee of the brand’s long-term success. Especially in the unlikely event that the brand was built on dumb luck.

Is branding appropriate for a studio? If you’ve been patient enough to read on until this point in the article, it’s the question you might well be asking yourself. And a very good one. There really is no simple answer. It depends upon your studio, your marketplace, your competition, and a myriad of other factors. I would narrow the factors down to three different scenarios. If you own a small studio, in a small market, with no competition, then I would forego branding for as much hard-hitting direct response


11 Hair Journal International Fall 2008 advertising I could afford. After all, you’re not fighting any competition, but you are trying to shake loose every potential client that you can from a relatively small population. So straight direct marketing would be the way to go. If you own a studio of any size in a mediumsized metropolitan area with at least one competitor or own a small studio in a large market, a branding effort makes a lot of sense. You shouldn’t abandon your direct marketing efforts (direct marketing and branding can be accomplished at the same time; more on that later), of course. You still have to compete effectively against your competition for clients; but a branding effort will make your direct marketing even more effective. If you own a medium-size or large studio in a large market with many competitors, branding is most desirable. There’s a lot of “noise” out there with many competitors running ads, TV commercials, offering price specials, etc. In fact, branding should be as important to you as direct response efforts, since in the long run, it can help you dominate a crowded marketplace. What branding can do for a studio What can you expect from branding, once your studio has been effectively branded? The upsides are many. Here’s one of them that is somewhat unique to the hair replacement business. As you all know, the decision to even call a studio for a consultation is not an easy one to make. As you also know, the people who do call you had probably thought about their hair loss for a long time. Then one day, for whatever reason, they call, whether in response to an ad or from thumbing the Yellow pages. Why that day? It’s not like they haven’t been seeing ads for a long time…or never owned a phone book before. The fact is that people who become clients frequently act upon a sort of impulse. Something happens, whether it’s a situation they’re in or a thought they have, that compels them to respond. Now, if that individual already “knows” your name, wouldn’t it be more likely that they would respond to you? Branding builds credibility. If people know your name, have seen your ads, have a sense of what your studio is about, well, they feel in a way that they “know” you. Or at the very least, that the studio must be successful and therefore accomplished—why else would you be so well known in the market? This credibility breeds trust. If people think they have a sense of who you are, or attribute to your studio a certain level of professionalism, or one of a number of any other describable quality they may ascribe to your studio, then it will be easier to get them in for a consultation and easier to make the sale. You’ll certainly have the advantage over your non-branded competitors, in any scenario. Branding caveats The most important warning I could give a studio or any other enterprise regarding branding is this: it takes time and it takes money. At the beginning of this article, I stated that there was no such thing as a brand without consumer (or in some cases, trade) awareness. Awareness costs money. Because in order to achieve it, you will need to expend substantial advertising dollars. Or invest in equally expensive public relations efforts. Now of course, as I also mentioned earlier, dumb luck can supplant such expenditures. For example, if George Clooney or Leonardo DiCaprio were one of your clients, and if they were to announce to the world that they were wearing your hair, well, you’d be branded, without cost, almost instantly. However, in the likely event that this is not going to happen, you’ll be like everyone else from Sony to Federal Express: you’ll have to spend money to brand your studio. You’ll also have to spend time. Branding doesn’t happen overnight, particularly if you have a modest budget. It could take years in order to establish your studio as a brand, even if you dedicate a

hefty amount of money to do so. But, don’t despair, you can have your cake and eat it, too, so to speak, if you combine your branding efforts with your direct response advertising…provided you do so in the right way. Killing two birds with one stone (or ad) As I once wrote in an article for Advertising Age about the convergence of direct response advertising and brand advertising, “every brand ad should contain a direct response mechanism and every direct response ad should contain a parcel of branding”. Now, that means a lot more than putting an oversized logo in your direct response ad, or putting a URL in a brand ad. But let’s confine ourselves to direct response advertising, since that is what most every studio currently has experience with. As you’re very well aware, a direct response ad simply means an ad or commercial that features a product, along with the means, such as a phone number and/or URL, to buy it, get more information about it, find out where it can be bought, et.al. But what such an ad doesn’t do is say something about the company that’s running it. That’s because direct response advertising is judged solely by the number of leads, inquiries, sales, etc., that it makes. None of the expensive space or time is devoted to saying something about the advertiser itself. The- whole point is to get the consumer to take action, not to impart a branding message. However, it is possible to sell a product and to create an image for yourself at the same time. Some of the ways to do it are very subtle, such as using memorable and striking graphics in every message. Other ways are more straightforward, such as including a brief paragraph about your studio or its philosophy or its policies. Now, such methods are not going to hurt your selling message. But there will have to be a trade-off somewhere. For example, the more space you devote in a print ad to branding yourself, the less space you’ll have to sell a product. The same goes for a television commercial, as well. If you’re running a :30 commercial and spend ten seconds talking about yourself, that’s ten seconds less you have to talk about a your product. So where do you draw the line? At what point do you say, I can or cannot devote my advertising dollar to my image tomorrow at the expense of making a sale today? A quandary…and an opportunity There’s no doubt that choosing between branding and pure direct response advertising can be difficult. But there are ways to interweave the two. What you need is a “hook”. Some way to get people interested in the product itself. Not an easy accomplishment in and of itself. Secondly, your “hook” has to segue seamlessly and transparently into a message about your studio. The two have to appear as if they were cut from the same cloth. So your hook has to be broad enough to accommodate a different “story”. But not too broad, or else it won’t draw consumers to find out more about it. Now, if you can find a way to do this, how can you judge its efficacy? You might not get as many leads because of the portion of your message that sells your studio rather than a product. Does that make the ad less effective? Not if it’s delivering a brand message that is resonating with the viewer of the ad. But how will you know that? Only time will tell. And if you don’t have the time to tell, you really shouldn’t be branding in the first place. But if you do….well, branding could be the magic elixir that you’ve been looking for ever since you first got into the business. Steven DiManni is a 26-year veteran of Madison Avenue, serving as Creative Director of many of New York’s top agencies for clients ranging from Coca-Cola to Hitachi, and having won almost every major creative award the industry has to offer. He is also a 25-year veteran of the hair replacement industry and a long-time consultant to the On Rite Company.


f

12 Hair Journal International Fall 2008

&

all winter ashion trends

By Toma Moore

Mahopac Falls, NY - Summer blonde’s usually give way to brunettes and auburns during the Fall. This year will be no different. Toma Moore, National Education Director for a top hair extensions company, offers her predictions and advice for Fall and Winter hair fashion. “For Fall and Winter, you will need to go warmer and deeper with hair color shades to compliment the lighter skin tones. Blondes love to stay blonde, so you will just need to add some deeper tones throughout the blonde. This is easy to do with hair extensions. Professional hair extensions are easier on your client’s hair and they won’t damage the delicate blondes,

When it comes to highlights, anything still goes. It all depends on your client’s personality and lifestyle. With extensions, they can create a much bolder look with different highlights and lowlights - as well as fantasy shades. Fantasy hair color shades have become a big trend over the past year. Clients are becoming increasingly daring! They want that bold, luscious color without having to bleach their hair and deposit color that will fade. This can easily be achieved with professional hair extensions. Companies like SO.CAP. USA Hair Extensions, which offers 81 different haircolor shades, make it easy to do any color combination you and your client can imagine. The combinations are endless. The most popular hair length this Fall and Winter will be anywhere from the chin to just past the shoulder-line. Clients who had those short, sassy haircuts this summer can now easily change their look for Fall and Winter by adding new length, fullness and color with hair extensions. We are going to see more big volume with

chemotherapy. You will be able to give them the look they desire, help them feel good about themselves and to give them the confidence they need to face the world. Remember too that, as a hairstylist, you must create and adapt the seasonal trends to fit your client’s lifestyle needs. Your imagination with hair extensions can be endless. Every time customize a hairstyle, you are creating a work of art! Toma Moore is National Education Director for SO.CAP. USA. Its parent company, SO.CAP. s.r.l. Hair Extensions Company is based in Naples, Italy, with offices across Europe and North America. SO.CAP. USA, the official North American branch, is headquartered in New York, with 12 other regional offices around North America and offices also in Canada, Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic and Latin America. They have been featured in numerous international professional beauty trade and consumer publications.

How to Make More Money! Tips To Increase Your Salon Retail Sales By Tiffany Neumann It’s never been a better time to make more money in your salon! With gas prices continually growing, we could all benefit from a few extra bucks or even thousands! As an owner or manager of a specialty salon, hair restoration center or a medical hair clinic, you may not realize that you are missing thousands of dollars in professional retail product sales each and every month! Many salons and clinics are not familiar with the best techniques to successfully stock and sell retail products. With these helpful tips, you and your salon will be able to effectively turn around and increase your retail sales! You may be wondering why strong retail sales are critical to a salon or clinic’s success. Let’s put it literally. To earn $100 from a hair therapy treatment, you must provide a commissioned or salaried employee, a station for the professional to work, working equipment and supplies. You must also be ready to cover dozens of other related expenses such as liability and disability insurance, laundry, maintenance and other necessities. Now, $100 of professional retail products occupies a tiny space, always shows up for work, requires no supervision and resells itself! How is this possible? MARKETING! With a little extra marketing help around the salon or clinic, you could be making more money in a month from retail sales than you have all year! Here are a few marketing suggestions to get you started:

because no chemicals are used,” says Moore. When Spring returns and your clients want to go lighter again, you can simply take out their extensions. The hair color fashions this year are rich, warm and vibrant colors from the blondest blonde to the darkest brunettes, as well as to the most luminous reds. It’s important that you make these new shades look very soft, so they will come alive with depth and dimension. “Multidimensional” haircolor will remain a much desired look this Fall and Winter. You can start your client with one solid color and add two to three or more shades to give them that extra dimension, without having to color their own hair,” suggests Moore. After applying hair extensions, you can simply cut the added hair to match their existing hairstyle so no one will know they even have hair extensions.

wavy hairstyles in the coming seasons. It’s time for that romantic look once again. Sleek and straight is boring. It’s time for more movement. Moore also recommends that you begin suggesting to clients that they grow out the inverted bob into a softer bob with fullness. This new style can also be achieved with professional hair extensions. At the same time, you can add fullness for a soft, romantic look, or add hair extensions that fall just onto the shoulders for that feminine bounce. And keep in mind that hair extensions are a great suggestion to clients who come in hoping you can even out a bad haircut they received somewhere else. Professional hair extensions are more than a fashion trend. They have become a necessity for millions of women with thinning hair. You can actually reconstruct someone’s hair who is experiencing alopecia or hairloss from

Point-Of-Purchase Materials: Point-OfPurchase (P.O.P.) devices are colorful, bright graphics designed to encourage a purchase decision, direct attention and improve message retention. Make sure they are always professionally printed and include your logo with a photograph of the service or product you are featuring. Keep them colorful, while using photographs, clever headlines and educationally-oriented copy that points out the benefits for each product. Avoid handmade signs. There are many different types of P.O.P. materials that will help to effectively direct your clients towards making a retail purchase! Counter Cards: A counter card display is a reasonably priced and eye-catching point-ofpurchase sign that prompts your clients to notice the promotion. Many 8.5” x 11” signs are displayed next to the register in a clear plastic frame. Counter cards will help your clients find what they’re looking for. They will help to inspire impulse sales for both products and services. They are also ideal for promotional and seasonal sales. The best place for these cards would at your reception desk or on your retail shelves. For example, from August to

September, your salon could promote ‘Buy Any 3 Salon Haircare Products – Get One FREE!’ or ‘$XXX Off All First-Time Laser Hair Treatments.’ Service Menu Menus & Boards: Salon service menu boards make a great P.O.P. Tiffany Neumann display in that they make it easier for your clients to select services or products. Service menu brochures and boards will clearly inform your clients about both service and product prices. Sometimes when prices aren’t displayed, clients may shy away from asking about a service for fear they may be embarrassed if the price is more than what they can afford. By displaying pricing beside all services, you will have a much better chance of achieving more sales. Shelf-Talkers: These colorful fold-over signs should sit right under or on top of the designated products to clearly explain the benefits and pricing of that product or haircare regimen. Wherever client’s eyes land is another place you can advertise. Tent Cards: Tent Cards look just as they sound. These small full color signs will help to direct your current clients to other areas of your salon and spa or to promote current specials. Wall & Ceiling Posters: Consider large wall posters and window banners. These can hang from your walls or ceiling, once printed on paper, plastic or heavy cardboard. These are great to promote gift certificates, makeovers and any new service. You may be thinking – “All this sounds great, but I know nothing about marketing or how to create these P.O.P graphics?” If this is the case, it’s no problem. There are many local freelance graphic designers and national companies willing to consult and help you create a seasonal marketing calendar. If the idea of spending money to make money isn’t appealing, you may need to consider what you could be missing! Keith West-Harrison, CEO of Spa E n r i c h m e n t Strategies, a spa and salon consulting firm, breaks down the cost of what you are missing out on, “Think about it. If you miss just $100 in sales per day and Keith West-Harrison most salons miss far more than that, this quickly adds up to more than $2,000 per month and more than $24,000 annually.” For the average salon or clinic, that’s about two to four product sales per day. This is a tiny increase for even a single hairstylist or hair loss professional. Imagine if your sales increased by $400.00 daily. That would bring in an additional $100,000+ in total salon sales! Is this money you can afford to ignore? In other words, “You’ve actually been paying by NOT have a consulting team help you develop business growth” notes Keith West-Harrison. With these helpful tips that can guide you to make more money, you will no longer be an owner or manager that doesn’t realize how you are missing out on thousands of dollars in professional retail product sales each month! Don’t be afraid to use outside expert help. To get started, try out a counter card next to your front desk. Contact a consulting or marketing firm to help you create the perfect seasonal marketing calendar and graphics. Tiffany A. Neumann is a Marketing Coordinator at Marketing Solutions, Inc., a full-service marketing, advertising and PR agency specializing in the professional beauty business. Keith West-Harrison is CEO of Spa Enrichment Strategies in Santa Fe, NM. www.SpaEnrichmentStrategies.com 800884-1656.


13 Hair Journal International Fall 2008


14 Hair Journal International Fall 2008


15 Hair Journal International Fall 2008

Get Some New Ink! How PR & Media Relations Can Promote Your Hair Restoration Specialties By Larry H. Oskin

Your special charitable event could offer haircuts, manicures, massage, chair massage and facials for full price service donations or a slight discount, with all of the proceeds going to the local charity. You can create exciting door prizes and raffles with products, all of which will help you make ‘news’.

Creative salon marketing strategies should include a consistent media and public relations effort, yet most salons, hair restoration centers, laser clinics and medical spas never attempt this valuable direction. You really should look to develop a complete media relation strategy that will build credibility for your salon to promote your hair restoration, laser therapy and hair extension business within the professional beauty trade publications as well as within your own local community. Advertising & Marketing versus PR You must first be able to define the differences in your marketing strategies. Please do not refer to advertising as PR … or PR as advertising. They are very different. Advertising is paid media with print or display advertisements in newspapers, magazines or online. “Advertorials” may be created to look like an advertisement, yet in the small print they must say “advertisement.” “Infomercials” on TV and the radio must alert the viewers and listeners that it is a paid program. “PR”, “public relations” and “media relations” are different! They are editorial feature stories and they are not paid for. You will be able to achieve FREE PR and media exposure, if you can help educate the community of readers, listeners and viewers. Special Seasonal Media Calendar Events Develop an annual marketing calendar with advertising, merchandising and promotional plans that are supported by public and media relation strategies. You should first begin to create specific calendarized media events that can be promoted to the local newspapers, magazines, websites, radio and TV shows. Seasonal Hair Fashion Updates, Halloween, Election Day, Thanksgiving, Christmas, Year-End Holidays, New Years, Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, Graduations and Prom Season – all make for absolutely great PR gambits. No matter what the season is, you can always make news! The media is constantly looking for ways to help their readers and viewers with expert advice. If you take a non-commercial education oriented approach, you and your salon team will win big with important ongoing local and national media exposure. Special Charitable & Community Events Community service events and charitable fundraisers are a terrific way to attract local and national media attention. Whether or not your salon offers complete professional fullservice hair, skin or nail services – you can still promote your specialties with hair restoration, wigs, wefts, hair extensions and all related therapy services. Your team of hairstylists nail artists and estheticians can create a ‘Spa-A-Thon’, ‘Cut-A-Thon’ or a ‘Nail-A-Thon’ within your salon or at some community center. You could even work with cosmetology students from nearby cosmetology schools to assist your salon and spa professionals. You can invite in folks from the local chapters of the Locks of Love, American Cancer Society, National Breast Cancer Foundation, Susan G. Komen or any one of many agencies that deal with clients and patients who suffer from alopecia, cancer and other related hair loss traumas. They can be there to offer free consultations, advice and education. They may even have the ability to attract some local celebrity spokespeople, athletes, politicians and TV news anchors that may be able to come down for autographs and photographs.

What’s most important for any special event marketing like this – is the pre-event publicity. Create press releases with photographs taken beforehand to use this event to attract new clients to your salon, clinic or hair restoration center. A post-event press release with a check presentation photograph will also share your community spirit while noting how much money you have donated. You can have a local office supply enlarge a copy of your check to 3 to 5+ feet long, for this special PR photo opportunity. Try to get a great PR photograph of important celebrity guests with the charitable representatives in front of your salon or clinic – so your business name will potentially be published in the local media. Ask you manufacturer and distributor partners to put you on their PR Mailing List. You can rewrite some of their information and facts, while customizing it locally for your own hair restoration salon, media spa or laser clinic.

“The media is constantly looking for ways to help their readers and viewers with expert advice. If you take a non-commercial education oriented approach, you and your salon team will win big” PR & Media Kits The most important tool for any salon or hair restoration business is to have a completely integrated public relations and marketing program that will professionally build your business in the future. As a business owner, you should market yourself to the local media, to the national and international beauty trade media, as well as the national consumer media to build your business. There is no better way to achieve this than by starting with impressive press kits. When designed properly, these Media Kits can double as new patient / client kits to professionally introduce the benefits of your entire hair restoration business. A good Media or Press Kit will accurately depict the personality of your salon, clinic or hair restoration business as well as your staff’s specialties. Consider the fact that your PR Kits will be the first impression of your hair restoration business that can make or break you with the media. These kits must be colorful and very impressive! Based upon your Media Kit, targeted media types and potential new hair restoration clients will decide if they desire what your business has to offer. The idea behind a Media Kit is to immediately spark the interest of media types, editors, freelance writers and TV producers. Press Kits should be designed to make the media’s job easier by giving editors, writers and broadcast producers enough information to successfully write or explore an interesting new feature story about your hair restoration business. Media Kit Essentials • The Hair Restoration Business Story Tell about your hair restoration services, staff specialties, state-of-the-art equipment, advanced certifications, education, honors and achievements. It should have some kind of a unique angle that separates your hair restoration busi-

ness from other local salons, laser clinics and beautycare resources. Be ready to share what makes you unique and distinctively different • Biography Create a one-page briefing about your media spokesperson, whether this will be the business owner or artistic director. • Professional Photographs Today, you can include digital CD’s, DVD’s or photographic prints. If photography opportunities will be available at some special event, please note that in your cover pitch letters. • Fact Sheets Share bullet points about your salon, hair restoration business and products – with a list of your awards, accomplishments, accolades and success stories. • Frequently Asked Questions About Hair Restoration Create a list all FAQ’s —- frequently asked questions with answers about your services and products. Use single-sentence questions or limit each answer to one brief paragraph. This will help journalists and media contacts; because you have cut down on their work by thinking of the questions for them, while perhaps even increasing the odds of them writing about you. • Press Releases Always include at least one exciting and newsworthy one-page press release that is not overtly commercial. Share news, information and facts while telling the readers what they can learn from you and your hair restoration business. • PR Reprints Plan to include copies of any previous press coverage your store has received in the past. Show off the magazine or newspaper logo, by saying `As Seen In’, before reprinting the stories on a page. Full color PR Reprints are best. Put your logo and address somewhere on these pages while deleting the dates, before printing – so they will become timeless reminders of your media honors. • Hair Restoration Brochures Include hair restoration service brochures, manufacturer brochures and any current marketing materials, like your newsletter. • Business Cards Include one or two extras, so they may be shared with their staff or freelance writers. • PR Pitch Letters This should be a personalized cover letter for each targeted media contact. It must offer a basic introduction with at least three or four potentially unique story angle ideas. • Sample Products Don’t be afraid to include a special product or some imprinted advertising logo specialty or any beautycare product sample that relates to your proposed hair restoration news and story ideas. Press Releases It is very important to create a one-page Press Release that announces some important news, staff promotions, awards, accolades, a special event or charitable fundraiser. These media releases should be professionally typewritten and printed on your stationery in a formal press release format. You can send a news release out as often as once every 4 to 6 weeks to the local or national media. Be careful not to send too many, too often. Be careful to always carefully write press releases and pitch to their target audiences! Timing Is Everything - Use Editorial Calendars You will need to work on creating your PR programs at least 3 to 6 months in advance when attempting local, regional or national media coverage to promote your hair restoration business. For the local media as well as the national beauty trade media, you can easily ask for their Annual Editorial Calendars. These are often available online, by visiting their websites. Most local newspapers and magazines will have special salon, health, wellness and spa sections with different themes throughout the year. Many of the national beauty trade and salon magazines will have at least one issue per year where they will focus on topics like hair restoration, men’s services, wigs and hair extensions per year. For example, if the local

media is featuring wedding stories in May, then you should be pitching them 3 months in advance with bridal beautycare and haircare solutions in February or March. Offer to share tips on hair restoration, makeup, skincare, hairstyle products, hair ornaments and appliances that will make a bride’s special day, the one day she will look and feel spectacular. You need to be there for the editors and TV producers 2 to 3 months in advance when they are writing and assigning these stories, rather than the month before – when the story is complete. Target Media Lists Create a computerized database with each of the local editors, radio and TV producers on it. Include their names, titles, addresses, email addresses, websites, fax and telephone numbers. You will need to create a separate target media list for national publications and TV shows. Keep track of any local writer or TV producer that shares any beautycare feature story as they may also be open to a future feature story on hair restoration. Keep your target media lists updated. PR Pitch Points Create a list of variable PR pitch point ideas, like: • Hair Restoration - The True Story! • New & Specialty Hair Restoration Options • Laser Hair Restoration ~ Magical Makeovers • The Long Story On Wigs & Wefts ~ For Women & Men • Hair Extensions - More than Length! Add New Volume, Haircolor, Highlights & Body • Professional Hair Extension Makeovers Mail versus Email Today, you can pitch the media with email blasts or by traditional mail packages. We recommend that you use both, until you learn what your targeted editors prefer. Pitching the Local Media Plan to personally follow up each mailed press kit with a telephone call! Call to make sure they received your press kit, while personally offering some attractive hair restoration and makeover feature story ideas. This will add familiarity and give them the opportunity to ask questions. Don’t be afraid to pitch to their voicemails. Be gentle and not too pushy. Become a valuable resource, not a pest. Just be careful as these targeted media contacts will not be ready to promote your hair restoration expertise every week or month. You will be able to share the wealth of your expertise and knowledge once or twice per year with most media contacts. You must understand that no matter how good your relationship becomes, they will need to mix it up taking turns with various subjects and experts. Professional PR Resources You can certainly create and facilitate a PR campaign all by yourself! Or, you can search to see if someone on your team has the abilities and experience to facilitate a PR Program for your store. You can also certainly explore local freelance writers, publicists or PR agencies. You can also use PR and marketing agencies that specialize in the professional beauty business, while fully understanding the hair restoration, laser, wig, hair extension and related businesses. PR Must Be A Never Ending Strategy! It is always going to be a great time to expose your business expertise in the areas of hair restoration, hair extensions, wigs, lasers, image enhancement and all of your other unique beautycare specialties. There will always be new women and men who grow older, develop cancer, alopecia or hair loss challenges. You will just need to be there, when their time comes. As you develop media relationships, you will find the more PR you get, the more PR you will get. Now is the time to take on the challenge of creating an annual marketing campaign that is focused on a superior PR and media relations campaign! Editorial Notes: Larry Oskin is president of Marketing Solutions, Inc., a full-service marketing, advertising, graphic design and PR agency specializing in the professional beauty industry. Clients include salons, spas, hair restoration centers, beauty stores, medical spas, distributors, manufacturers and associations. Larry serves on the Hair Journal International Advisory Board and is a Faculty Member of The National Hair Society. To contact Larry Oskin call 703-359-6000, Email LOskin@MktgSols.com or visit www.MktgSols.com.


16 Hair Journal International Fall 2008


17 Hair Journal International Fall 2008

Flash Report Too Busy to Wash? How About a Dry Shampoo? New York, NY. 08/08 - As noted recently in The New York Times Styles section and Washington Post Express, there is a surge in popularity of dry shampoos. Klorane has now put a new ‘twist’ on the dry shampoo concept, introducing a new eco-friendly dry shampoo: KloraneECO Gentle Dry Shampoo with oat extract. This new eco-friendly version features a new, nonaerosol delivery system with recyclable packaging. Simply shake, ‘twist’, squeeze and the result is cleaner hair with the added benefit of a cleaner environment. Time is more precious than ever and dry shampoo is a multi-functional hair product that benefits everyone from busy moms to executives to anyone who wants to extend the time between regular washings. In an independent survey of 100 participants, 82% of the people who tested KloraneECO Dry Shampoo non-aerosol felt hair was as clean as when shampooing with water and 91% of the people tested felt that their hair had more volume. Klorane Laboratories is owned by Pierre Fabre Laboratories, the largest privately held pharmaceutical company in France.

of the cuticle and within the hair shaft by creating a glyco-protein barrier. This helps improve the condition of dry, frizzing and damaged hair.

NIOXIN® Introduces Thickening Spray into the Volumizing Reflectives™ Professional Styling Line NIOXIN® Research Laboratories introduces a brand new styling product that brings life to dull, fine hair. The NEW Volumizing Reflectives™ Thickening Spray, an addition to the Volumizing Reflectives™ styling line, creates effortless body and beautifully styled hair. Volumizing Reflectives™ Thickening Spray is an extremely lightweight styling product designed to create a new dimension of volume, thickness and body in fine hair. This unique spray adds thickness from the inside of the cuticle and strengthens the hair shaft while adding maximum volume, body, fullness and shine to hair without buildup or weight. Volumizing Reflectives™ Thickening Spray is formulated with a distinct combination of ingredients that provides extreme volume, texture and strength to fine hair. They include BioAMP™ – Glyco-protein technology, which adds dimension from inside the hair shaft, and cystine amino acids, which repair damaged cuticle, to provide volume, strength, support and protection, Glycerin – Binds moisture deep within the hair shaft to provide a defense against dry and frizzy hair, Volume Enhancers – Provides durable and elastic hold, even in high humidity

Toppik Gets New Spray Applicator - This Patented Device Provides for Precise Application of Fibers. It’s Especially Effective

Hair Aph o risms Hair System - Method of exchanging your healthy, growing hair for dead, porous hair from another continent.

at the Front Hairline. When Used with the Hair Live Optimizer Template, Anyone Can Now Get a Perfect Result Upfront.

New Line of Xfusion Keratin Fibers - XFusion Keratin Fibers is an advanced version of the keratin fibers used in Toppik and is available only in professional salons. EFusion also boasts the spray applicator and hairline templates developed for Toppik.

Eyelash Extensions Online Training Tustin, CA, 06/08 - 3D-Beauty International, Inc., has launched the first ever online eyelash extension training. The course was developed to teach aspiring eyelash extension professionals the fundamental procedures used by industry experts. The training course includes comprehensive video lessons, quizzes, and tests. Students have 30 days to complete the course from the convenience of their home, office or anywhere. In April, 3D-Beauty also launched a series of monthly online seminars as well as a Myspace, You Tube, and Facebook page.

NIOXIN® Introduces into the Smoothing Reflectives™ Professional Styling Line NIOXIN® Research Laboratories, Inc. the leader in professional skincare for the scalp solutions and hairstyling products, introduces a new styling product into the Smoothing Reflectives™ styling line – Smoothing Reflectives™ Glossing Color Shield. Smoothing Reflectives™ Glossing Color Shield is a unique styling product and color protectant that adds exceptional and long lasting shine to styled hair, while simultaneously providing thermal protection. Smoothing Reflectives™ Glossing Color Shield contains Glyco-Color Shield™, the revolutionary technology aimed at extending the life and vibrancy of color enhanced hair. Glyco-Color Shield™ seals the cuticle to lock-in color, by bonding with hair’s keratin, both on the surface

Follicular Unit -Paramilitary unit comprised of a consultant, technical assistant and a medical orderly that has perfected the use of miniaturized weapons. Tip -Short for “tipping point.” The moment when your stylists stop seeing you as a coffee break interruption and acknowledges that you may have interests in common. Hair conference -Annual Hajj where hair pilgrims make their way on their knees to Florida to pay homage. Technician -Short for stylist. Oxidize -Use of special bovine agents to turn your hair orange. Hair graft -Procedure for transferring funds from a thinning hair victim to Sicily. Sy Sperling -Not only a client, but also a wealthy retiree. Wet goods -Controversial products used in waterboarding to extract maximum revenue from hair detainees. Paris -Stylist who interrupts hair extension applications to answer her cell phone. Hair clinic -Sanatorium for salon owners when lead costs exceed $150. Bonding -Special closeness experienced by salon owners when clients sign a long-term service contract. LaserComb -Space-age styling device used by Klingons before they discovered they had no hair. L - 12th letter of the alphabet. Also first letter of “low level laser light therapy.”

People on the Move The National Hair Journal is proud to announce the following additions to its Advisory Board Larry H. Oskin, President, CEO, Marketing Solutions, Inc., a Washington-based marketing and advertising company servicing the beauty industry. Shelley Friedman, M,D., Cosmetic surgeon. Founder of the American Board of Hair Restoration Surgery and internationally recognized hair transplant educator and practitioner.

ABOUT US Hair Journal International is part of The National Hair Group, a business consortium committed to the development of the hair-management industry. The National Hair Group provides information services via Hair Journal International, a business newspaper. The National Hair Society is an educational, marketing and networking, professional support organization. The Group also provides consumer education via National Hair Broadcasting, a weekly broadcast show.

HAIR JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL Mission - Mission - To provide hair-management professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will allow better business decision-making and facilitate superior client service.

Editor In Chief Christopher Webb cwebb@nationalhairjournal.com

Creative Director

New Image Labs David Lagadi has joined New Image Labs as National Sales Manager. Lagadi brings over 20 years of sales, marketing and technical experience to this position. He will oversee the company’s marketing projects as well as develop training programs for the customer service team. He has a B.S in Business Management and is the Past Vice President of the American Hair Loss Council.

NIOXIN Research Laboratories Jim Grannan - NIOXIN Research Laboratories announces the promotion of Jim Grannan to Vice President Corporate Communications. Prior to joining NIOXIN Research Laboratories, Grannan served as Managing Director/President of an American affiliate of an international branded entertainment and creative services company, COCOEVP of Mandalay Branded JAMBO; Creative Manager; Entertainment, International Group, The Coca Cola Company, and Art Director and Communications Manager for Adair-Greene Advertising Company. LeAnn Price NIOXIN Research Laboratories also announces the promotion of LeAnn Price to Regional Sales Manager for the company’s Eastern Region. LeAnn is a former sales professional for Keune, Zotos and Marshall’s Salon Service who “possesses a great deal of valued experience in the Victory Beauty Supply market place” notes Carla Pierce, Director of Human Capital for NIOXIN Research Laboratories. Price, a graduate cosmetologist who began her career with the international beauty company in 2004 has also served the company in the capacity of both Education and Development Manager throughout her career.

Spencer Forrest Tara Silber has joined Spencer Forrest as director of the Beauty Product Division. Tara oversees all aspects of professional salon exclusive lines, particularly XFusion products. XFusion is now sold in over 5,000 professional salons and day spas. Ruth Ellison - has been promoted to the new title of Vice-President, Director of Sales, Spencer Forrest. Ruth is in charge of worldwide sales of Toppik, Couvre, X5 HairLaser, and all other Spencer Forrest products.

Hair DX David R. Teckman - HairDX, LLC ( www.hairdx.com), an FDA registered pharmacogenomics research and development company today named David R. Teckman as its new President and CEO. HairDX specializes in testing and genetic analysis of skin disorders and hair biology. Andy Goren, HairDX former CEO is moving to the role of Chairman & CoFounder. Earlier this year, HairDX became the first company to market genetic tests that predict an individual’s risk for the male or female versions of Androgenetic Alopecia (Hair Loss). The test is available in the US through qualified physicians.

CLASSIFIED Nu/Hart Hair Clinics, the world leader in hair restoration is seeking a HAIR TRANSPLANT PHYSICIAN for both their London and Manchester clinics. Surgical experience or aesthetic training is a plus, with a minimum two-year commitment. Applicant should email CV to: medicalpartners@aol.com mailto:medicalpartners@aol.com

Avi Roth aroth@nationalhairjournal.com

Technical Advisors Isaac Brakha Dr. Shelley Friedman Larry Oskin

Contributing Correspondents James Britt Marilyn Dodds Steven Dimanni Dawn Harrison Phil Fennell Gloria Ford Bobbi Russell Larry Sellars James Toscano Marilyn Wayne

HAIRLOSS NEWSMAKERS -Webcast Mission - To deliver reliable, objective information to men and women who are concerned about their hair loss and want an unbiased perspective on the choices available to them.

Production Director Mike Ferreri mike@mfaudio.net

Sound Engineer Dan Feely dan@danfeely.com

Production Assistant Reggie Smith

NATIONAL HAIR SOCIETY Mission - The Hair Society was created at the request of forward-looking hair-management specialists seeking educational and marketing support to grow their business. It connects manufacturers, distributors, retail salons and medical clinics and provides an ongoing network for crossmarketing and dialogue.

Membership Director Heather Simon hsimon@nationalhairjournal.com

NE Regional Director Catherine Ingoglia

CA Regional Director Edmarie Masters

European Director Hans Diks SUBSCRIPTIONS To subscribe to Hair Journal International, send an Email to subscriptions@nationalhairjournal.com or visit www.nationalhairsociety.org/store. You can also write to us at the address at the bottom of this column or call 1-951571-3209. ADVERTISING To place an advertisement or request a Media Kit, contact us at advertising@nationalhairjournal.com or call 1-951256-4385 LEGAL NOTICE Notice: Hair Journal International, Issue number 47 Copyright ©2008. All rights reserved. While great care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information in Hair Journal International, the publisher does not assume liability for decisions based upon it. Readers are advised to seek further independent advice. All statements, including product claims, are those of the person or persons making the statements or claims. The publisher does not adopt any such statement or claim as its own, and any such statement or claim does not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. Hair Journal International accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All materials in this issue are the property of this publication and nothing shown may be reproduced in any form without obtaining the permission of the publisher and/or any other persons or company who may have copyright ownership. Requests should be addressed to: Publisher, Hair Journal International, 39252 Winchester Rd., # 107-383, Murrieta, CA 92563. HOW TO CONTACT US National Hair Group 39252 Winchester Rd., # 107-383 Murrieta, CA 92563. Telephone: 951-541-2809 news@nationalhairjournal.com subscriptions@nationalhairjournal.com advertising@nationalhairjournal.com events@nationalhairjournal.com Hair Journal International is published Quarterly. Copyright © 2008. Single copies of most past issues of The National Hair Journal are available prepaid at $10.00 per copy. Special issues are more. Hair Journal International serves primarily the hair replacement , hair restoration and personal enhancement industries. It sponsors conferences and trade events and produces analysis & marketing research on the hair replacement and restoration industries. Postmaster: Please send address changes to: Hair Journal International, LLC 39252 Winchester Rd., #107-383, Murrieta, CA 92563


19 Hair Journal International Fall 2008

I N T E RV I E W S W I T H S O C I E T Y M E M B E R S I N C A N A D A A N D AC RO S S T H E S TAT E S Exclusively His Hair Loss Solutions is In this edition, we feature interviews from our members in Ontario, Canada, Ohio, and Florida.

owned and operated by Les and Jan Propes in Cincinnati, OH. Les attended Barber school in 1976 and started working at a salon

Joanne Davison – Joanne is Founder and Director of The Hair Prosthesis Centre,

Reception

services to a small list of female clients.

Men’s Styling Room

located in Barrie, Ontario, Canada. I’ve spoken with Joanne several times and it has always been inspiring to learn about her business development and especially her efforts to help patients with cancer.

Client Waiting Room

Les and Jan Propes

past 20 years. The following testimonial explains why:

in 1977. He was among six stylists chosen to work with hair pieces and has been in the hair replacement/hair restoration industry since 1988. His wife, Jan has also been in the industry since the early 70’s and worked as a stylist before getting involved in hair replacement.

“They are compassionate, helpful and particularly interested in helping patients with cancer. Their services are very personal, with an emphasis on giving the best for the least expensive price…they lectured to the Dermatology Staff at Women’s College Hospital, and we learned a great deal from them” Dr. B.K. Fisher, M.D. Chief Division of Dermatology, The Wellesley, Hospital. As cancer survivors themselves, THPC staff have an intimate understanding of what

Exclusively His Hair Loss Solutions offers many services to their clients. Les has been very happy with the Virtual Reality line since it was introduced. The salon also provides laser hair therapy treatment using a professional floor-stand laser and sells the HairMax LaserComb. The salon carries a line of men’s skincare called, Menaji and offers manicures and pedicures. Les has used radio, TV, newspapers and direct marketing to

Les expressed his enthusiasm for the hair replacement industry in our interview. He finds it difficult to get out from “behind the chair” because he enjoys this work and helping his clients. In 1995-1996 he was introduced to full-head bonds when working for a company called Energy Solutions. In 1995,

Hat & Accessories Room

With over 30 years of extensive experience and achievements, THPC offers insights and creative guidance for all hair loss conditions that women, men and children are dealing with today. They work with Alopecia Areata/Totalis, Chemotherapy, Radiation on scalp, burn victims, hair pulling, and male and female pattern hairloss. THPC recently moved to 1 Quarry Ridge Road, Unit LL5, located in the Royal Court Medical Centre, adjacent to the Royal Victoria Hospital. THPC has an expansive array of hair treatment options such as, partial grafts, wigs, laser treatments, rejuvenate hair loss products and hair transplant consultations. THPC has been a top choice for patient referral in their area for the Dennis (Dino) Howell is the owner of Transitions by Dino located in Ft. Lauderdale, FL. Dino was a barber in Illinois

Outside Building Joanne Davison

patients are going through and are diligent in their efforts to help restore their self image. In celebration of their 25th anniversary, THPC held an information-sharing and networking reception, inviting the medical community to participate. Hair transplant specialist, Dr. David Wallik, was guest of honor. I would like to thank Joanne and her PR team for sharing this information. Please visit their website at www.hairprostheis.com. from the next door bagel bakery and tourists who happen to visit the area which is near a busy shopping center. The salon is 1500 square feet and includes 6 technical rooms, a waiting area and 2 offices. The clientele at Transitions at Dino’s is 65 per-

Dino is fortunate to have his family help him in the business. Transitions by Dino has 8

Tran Dennis Howell (Dino) Transitions by Dino’s Staff

employees, including his wife Tina, daughter Gia, who has been working at the salon for 21 years, and their son Joey, who has also been working at the salon for 18 years. Carol handles scheduling and office administration, Lynn and Tracie are technicians, and Dino’s stepfather, Jerry also provides assistance at the salon. The salon is in a great location in Ft. Lauderdale and receives a lot of foot traffic

Hair Options of Tallahassee is owned by Ron Neal. Ron was also involved in the Alan Arthur company. He attended barber school in Tallahassee in 1971 and gradually moved into the hair replacement industry. In 1973, he leased a building Ron Neal with another business partner and opened up his first salon. Ron is fortunate to have his wife Yvonne and their son Connor help manage the business along, with their two technicians,

Dennis Howell

and moved to Florida to pursue greater opportunities within the hair industry. He has been in hair replacement for 32 years and met Carl Walters and Lee West when they were all involved with Alan Arthur in Florida in the early 1970’s.

Facial and Spa Room

he opened his own hair replacement business, called LP Concepts and offered hair transplant services. Les and Jan recently relocated and have renamed the business, Exclusively His Hair Loss Solutions. They are now in a better location and share a building with professional dentists and doctors. Their clientele consists of about 95 percent men, but they offer hair restoration

For the past 33 years, Dino has advertised the salon in the local SunSentinel newspaper twice a week and it has worked well. He has explored other media such as T.V. and yellow pages, but the local newspaper seems to bring in the clients. Dino’s biggest challenge Outside Dino’s at the moment is to pass the responsibility of managing the salon to his son and daughter in the next 2-3 years. I would like to thank Dino for taking the time out of his busy schedule to talk about his business. For more information, please visit the Transition’s website at www.iwanthair.com/locations/ and click on the State of Florida.

Direct marketing

I would like to thank Les and Jan for sharing their business experience with Hair Society members. For more information about the salon, please visit their website at www.exclusivelyhissalon.com.

treatment room and a consultation area. The salon is well known throughout the area. The clientele at Hair Options is 60

Styling Consultation Room

percent women and 40 percent men. In 2007, Ron began using the Virtual Reality product line for his male clientele. He also carries Virtuesse for his female clients. Ron offers laser hair therapy and has an Alphalase in his laser treatment room. He recently added the Revivogen products to his salon.

Dennis Howell, Gia Leffler, Tina and Joey Howell

cent men and 30-40 percent women. The salon offers Amy Presence wigs, IHI’s Micropoint Link / Cyberhair programs, and OnRite systems for most of the men. Dino wants to include laser hair therapy within the next couple of months. Dino is a member of the Transitions Group.

advertise the business. seems to work best.

Ron has tried several marketing strategies Yvonne, Ron and Conner

Linda Pararo and Paul Moody. Yvonne handles the chemotherapy consultations and accounting and Conner is the Manager and Public Relations Coordinator.

Waiting Room

Ron Neal, Linda Pararo, Conner Neal, Yvonne Neal and Paul Moody

Hair Options is a single story salon that includes 5 styling rooms, a private laser

over the years, including radio, TV and advertising in the local newspaper, The Tallahassee Democrat. Newspaper seems to work best and his salon receives a lot of inquiries from women. Thank you Ron for speaking with me about yours business. The website is great so please visit it at - www.hairoptions.com.


18 Hair Journal International Fall 2008

Hair Society News www.nationalhairsociety.org

Hello from your Society Coordinator – Welcome to my Fall update. Several changes are taking place on your Society Website (see below) and we are also excitHeather Simon ed to announce the creation of the Hair Society Faculty; a team of specialists who will share their skills and insights with you. We are also launching a special Society Accreditation program to recognize your investment in continuing education by attending a training seminar or conference organized by the major industry organizations like your manufacturer/distributor or a workshop hosted by a Faculty member. More about that in a future newsletter.

Guess Whose Hair – Several people tried to guess whose hairstyle I had cut and pasted onto my photo in the Journal’s Summer edition, but no one got it right! It was Jessica Simpson! In today’s edition, I’m giving you a second chance – see if you can guess the origin of the hairstyle I have this time. E-mail your best guess to hsimon@nationalhairjournal.com. I will announce the winner (s) in the Winter issue. Website Changes-www.nationalhairsociety.org - The National Hair Society website is becoming a valuable tool. Newsletters, Blogs, downloadable Support Documents and the Photo Highlights section are just a few of the newly added features. Every month, we will add new information to help members obtain the support they need. If you would like more information about joining The National Hair Society please visit the website, contact me at 951-571-3209, or e-mail me at hsimon@nationalhairjournal.com. Welcome - It’s always a pleasure to introduce the latest people to join The Society and help you get to know them. I’ve had the opportunity to interview several more members and they are profiled on pg.19. If I have not yet talked with you about your business, please feel free to phone or e-mail me to set up a time to interview so you too can be featured in Hair Journal International.

Say Hello To Our Latest Wholesale Society Member, Scalp Laser Inc.

Say Hello to Our Latest Retail Society Members Vern Cole & Connie Lujan

Verne Cole

Connie Lujan

New Members Not Pictured: Fabian Cordova, Beth Orenstein, Carol Monaco, Mel Laudolff, Tess Tims, Lisa Dresser and Mette Menotti

Meet the Faculty We are pleased to announce the formation of an Educational Faculty at The National Hair Society. Top experts from different backgrounds and with advanced knowledge of important new technologies will share their insights and skills in order to strengthen and develop the hair management industry. The Society has asked the Faculty to identify important trends and explain how you can take advantage of them. They will be contributing a series of special articles to Hair Journal International that will later be archived in the ‘Education’ section of the Hair Society website for future reference. And because we recognize that more and more people are turning to the Internet for immediate answers to pressing questions, we have also invited our Faculty members to moderate discussion forums in the Society’s on-line chat room. We are presently restructuring the chat room to accommodate your requests, but please check back frequently at www.nationalhairsociety.org as we expect this build out to be completed very soon.

Bobbi Russell Bobbi is a Master Hair Additions Specialist with over 20 years experience. She is certified by most all the major Hair Extension and Hair Replacement Companies. She has been an educator, speaker and platform artist for over 18 years and admits that she has learned the hard way. She has been published many times and was a feature artist in Modern Salon magazine. Bobbi is widely respected as an expert on women's hair additions. She has been an educator for companies such as New Concepts Hair, On Rite, Tressallure, Reprieve, Balmain Hair, So-Cap Hair Extensions, Monkey Barzz Hair Extensions, Mega Hair Extensions, and has been involved in the research and development of many products. She has personally visited the So-Cap factory in Naples, Italy and the Great Lengths factory in Rome in search for a better understanding of the hair and products she uses. Bobbi owns and operates a womens only hair additions studio in Tampa, that specializes in Hair Extensions, Hair Loss Solutions for Women, Chemotherapy Prothesis, Corrective Color and Damaged Hair Repair. Bobbi has a calling and a passion for this industry and looks forward to sharing her knowledge in hair extensions, womens hair system design, application, and problem solving.

Dawn Harrison Dawn is nationally recognized as a top designer and educator with over 25 years experience in the beauty industry. She has successfully owned and operated four hair additions studios. She owns multiple patents for her Invisible Hair Extension and Integration designs, and nonsurgical hair graft technology method of attachment. She has been an official educator for Invisible Hair Additions, Paul Mitchell Products, Dome Hair Extensions, New Concepts Hairgoods, Wig USA, Durocher Enterprises Inc., and the National Hair Society. She volunteers for the “Look

Good, Feel Better” chapter of the American Cancer Society and donates full cranial hair prostheses to “Looks Like Me", childrens charity. Dawn is in high demand as a consultant and coach to women’s hair loss studio owners, and has developed a "Virtual Classroom" program comprised of 11 instructional DVDs and accompanying business plan workbooks. She is currently holding monthly, 3 day hands-on workshops in San Diego. In addition to being an expert hair addition specialist and designer, Dawn Harrison is a forward thinking entrepreneur who is heavily involved in new product research, development and marketing services.

Don Osendowski Donald Osendowski is President and owner of Scalp Laser Inc., a company that manufactures nine different hair and skin laser therapy devices. He has over 15 years of experience in hair loss and five years ago he decided to focus his talent on developing and manufacturing affordable lasers for hair management professionals. Although he is rarely seen in public, Don is an encyclopedia of laser knowledge and he will be sharing that data with Hair Journal readers in the months ahead. Don is a member of the National Hair Society where he serves on the Low Level Laser Light Therapy Advisory Panel.

Gloria (Gigi) Ford - Gigi is a much sought-after educator and platform artist with special knowledge of the needs and aspirations of the burgeoning and fashion-conscious ethnic market. It was evident at the beginning of Gigi's career, that she was destined to make a mark in the cosmetology industry. Four years after being nominated one of the "best" students licensed by the State Board in Lansing, MI, she was recruited to work for Seligman and Latz, the largest chain of elite beauty salons in the country. In 1980, Gigi purchased her first salon, "GiGi's." Her quest for excellence prompted her to travel to China, Korea, Hong Kong, Indonesia and the Philippines, where she met with expert hair vendors and factories. As a result, she developed her own hair line called The Gigi Series. Gigi has recently created a complete line of hair prosthesis education materials, including instructional books, audio books, videos and business programs. She also offers workshops, mentoring and in house setup. She is currently touring the US to train future hair prosthesis specialists in non surgical hair replacement. Jimmy (the General) Toscano, is an eighthgeneration hair stylist and one of the nation’s top authorities in non-surgical hair replacement systems. His knowledge of attachment technology is unequalled. In spite of a 60-hour workweek, Jim still finds the time to demonstrate his techniques at major hair shows and write a series of educational articles for The National Hair Journal, many of which have become collector’s items. Jim is assisted on stage, in his studio and at the computer by his multi-talented and beautiful wife, Linda. Talented but humble, hugely popular but modest, the General is a wonderful addition to the Society faculty.

Larry Zellers - Larry is a San Francisco bay area native. Since 1983, he has worked internationally in the hair replacement, movie, spa, and salon industry. Larry has always been an active volunteer and educational mentor. His passion is to work with people and groups with limited resources, getting them the recognition that they deserve. In recent years, he has been writing and lecturing extensively on what he refers to as the "forgotten market;" men and women afflicted with trichotillomania (obsessive hair twisting and pulling) and the substantial, but widely misunderstood, transgender population. Larry is a regular contributor to the National Hair Journal. Larry Oskin - is president of Marketing Solutions, Inc., a leading fullservice marketing, advertising, graphic design and PR agency specializing in the professional beauty and medical industries. Clients include salons, spas, hair restoration centers, beauty stores, medical spas, medical clinics, distributors, manufacturers and associations from across North America as well as internationally. As a former Vice President of Marketing at Regis Corporation and Creative Hairdressers / The Hair Cuttery, one of his expert specialties is salon chains. Marketing Solutions is headquartered in Fairfax, VA near Washington, DC. Larry is a frequent speaker and presenter at national and international beauty and spa shows. Many Hair Journal readers are sure to have seen him at ISSE and Cosmoprof events earlier this year. Marilyn Wayne – After spending over 30 years in the Financial Services Industry (she began her career when she was 5), Marilyn sold her business and decided to reinvent herself. Marilyn is president of Hair Solutions of South Bay, located in Torrance, CA and has been treating clients using Low Level Cool Lasers for three years. “I believe very strongly in this science. I’ve seen amazing results using Low Level Cool Lasers to stop hair loss and regrow healthy, thicker hair. There is nothing as rewarding as seeing a client go from tears to laughter when they regrow their hair.” Marilyn has recently developed a program for US Veterans, donating her lasers to be used by our men and women experiencing thinning hair. “If there’s life on that head, there is hair to be grown, and working with the Veterans is my way of thanking them.” Phil Fennell - With over 30 years of management and ownership experience and 16 years as an international performing artist and educator, Phil Fennell is recognized as one of the major management and leadership resources in our industry. Through his own company PSE, he has presented such programs as nationally acclaimed, “Managing in the Real World." In 2008, Phil officially joined forces with Steve Izzo, world-class hairstylist and educator, who became Artistic Director at EXPERIENCE. Phil also accepted the position of Senior Industry Consultant for KORVUE Software, Salon & Spa Division. EXPERIENCE will serve as a living laboratory and training facility for leadership-management, all supported by KORVUE. Please join us in welcoming our new Educational Faculty members!


20 Hair Journal International Fall 2008

Heads Up! Time to rethink the Patch Test By James (The General) Toscano

At a time when every manager is looking to economize, don’t make the mistake of using second-rate attachment products. Research shows that the most important thing your clients are looking for is security. Once they lose that peace of mind, they will either leave your salon or abandon hair replacement altogether. The bonding agents you use are the invisible, but vital, security lifeline that keeps your clients coming back. Let’s talk about the important - but often undone - patch test. When you do a patch test on a client, you probably put a small amount of adhesive on your client’s inner arm or behind their ear, put a band-aid over the adhesive, and send him/her home, telling the client to take the band-aid off the next day and check to see if there is any reaction. That’s what we, as an industry, have always done. Right? Well, I recently had a situation happen in my salon that made me change my thinking. A new client came in to the salon. After much discussion, we decided to soft bond him. I did a patch test on his arm with 3 different copolymers and made an appointment for him to come back the next day for his service. We took the band-aid off the next day and there had been no reaction. We bonded on a thin skin, cut it in, and he went home very happy. The next morning, I receive a call from him. He said that the hair system had fallen completely off. Totally dumbfounded, I told him to come back into the salon. I was totally shocked when I saw his scalp - it was orange/red!!! I wanted him to go immediately to a dermatologist, but his wife, who is a nurse, didn’t feel that was necessary. Thank God for understanding clients.

After reviewing the notes that I had made in his chart from the day before, I recalled that after the copolymer had been applied to his scalp and had “cured”, I applied the hair system. As I was cutting the system in, I noticed a few small areas, about the size of the head of a pin that looked white. I thought that possibly some water had leaked through the base and turned the adhesive white. As I look back, I think that he was already starting to have a reaction. Remember - your client’s health is your professional responsibility. You are liable for every product and chemical that touches his/her skin. A cheap, untested chemical may save you money, but those pennies won’t seem so valuable if they cost you your business! Bonding agents are highly sophisticated chemical compounds. The best of them have undergone years of systematic research, clinical trials and professional use. The bad ones are often cooked up in garages, backstreet labs and come with no safety net. All it takes is one client with an allergy, skin condition or toxic shock syndrome, and you could be out of business. Your life’s work and your financial security will be right down the drain. It’s not a risk anyone should even contemplate. How could this have happened to my client? I did a patch test on his arm and he didn’t have a reaction. Or did he have a reaction to the base material of the hair system? I’ve always used the safest bonds that are available. My choice of bond is water-based copolymers. I will still use these copolymers as my primary bond because I know they are the safest. Of the thousands of bonds that have been done in my salon, I have never had a client who has had a reaction to the adhesive. Until now. I feel the industry standard should now be every client who is going to be soft bonded will be patch tested on his scalp with the adhesive and a small piece of the base material of the hair system. I don’t ever want to have this happen to one of my clients, or one of your clients, ever again. So how do you find the safest bond? No

bonding agents should contain carcinogens, volatile fluids and gases, or chemicals known to be skin irritants. Examine the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSD Sheet) closely to check the composition of the bonding agent you are using now. If your bond did not come with a MSD Sheet, you should be suspicious. These are required by law and all serious manufacturers will want you to have them. This is what you or your client would show to an emergency room physician or personal doctor if there were an adverse reaction. Have you documented all the products you have used on your client? As I talk to technicians in different salons who may be having a problem with a particular client’s bond, I ask what bond they have been using or have tried in the past. “I can’t remember,” “Um, the stuff in the white bottle,” “What I’ve always used”, or, “This stuff. His head gets kind of red, but the bond holds for 8 weeks” are not good answers. Every product you use on your client - from cleaning the scalp to bonding - should be recorded in their chart so that if a problem arises, you can address it with confidence. Look for my next article on special bonding techniques for special needs and situations. As always, perfect isn’t perfect unless its perfect. Patience, persistence, and precision...

James Toscano (“The General”), a Pennsylvania native, is an eighth-generation hair stylist. He graduated from barber school in 1968 and has been building his hair-management skills ever since. Always in high demand at industry events, he is a Technical Advisor to New Image University and Educational Development & Style Director for Spectrum Salon Systems of Nebraska. He also consults for Professional Hair Labs of Tampa, FL, assisting in the research and development of surgical-grade adhesives for the hair replacement industry. Jim maintains a 60-hour workweek, but still finds the time to write a series of educational articles for The National Hair Journal.


21 Hair Journal International Fall 2008

The Toscano design team with Mr. and Mrs. Amin Sheybani (center) Getting ready for a "Virtual toast!" Jeffrey Paul with Chris Licursi?

Neil Greenberg

Phil Fennell

"Virtuesse Live." Teresa Lane (HairUWear) demonstrated the dramatic effects that could be Lance Centofanti, Eleanor Napolitano, Michael and Denise Napolitano achieved with hair additions, while Steve Izzo shared his coloring techniques and Jimmy (The General) Toscano demonstrated his meticulous bonding procedures. Chris Dr. Alex Kadhafi Webb, editor of Hair Journal International, was on hand to highColorado Springs, 07/08 light key trends in the hair loss No, he doesn't stop, and he industry and explain the dangers doesn't slow down. Lance, and opportunities… and how to “The Energizer,” has just hosted his latest Virtual Reality conference and, like all the ones that preceded it, it was come out ahead. Recognizing the importance of cross marketing, Dr. Alex Kadhafi a high energy affair! This time, the action took place in Colorado Springs and attract- described the benefits of Revivogen and indicated why it was the perfect companion to ed an energetic crowd of fellow shakers and movers, some of whom can be seen in other hair loss remedies, including laser light therapy. these pictures. Virtual Reality and American Hairlines are part of the HairUWear group of companies and comThe theme of the convention was "The Promise of Reinvention" and as Phil Fennell noted pany founder, Eleanor Napolitano and President/CEO Michael Napolitano, together with his wife, in his opening address, "Change is certain, growth is optional!" Over the next two days Denise, were on hand to greet guests and share in the excitement. Virtual Reality members and their staff were presented with a succession of new products VR presenters and technical experts and strategies to keep their business on the cutting edge. included: Lance Centofanti, Phil Following a passionate presentation, Fennell, Virg Christoffels, Jeffrey & "The, Art, Heart and Start of Zina Paul, Drs. Alex Khadavi and Alan Reinvention" by Lance Centofanti that Shargani (Revivogen), Chris Webb would have driven any other motiva- (Hair Journal Int’l), Don Osendowski tional speaker into early retirement, (Laser HairTech), Arnold Hilde, Drs. guests were ready for the Virtual Nancy and Greg Shannon, Steve Izzo, Reality and Virtuesse, "Fashion on the Teresa Lane (HairUWear), Melissa Runway," presented by Jeffrey and Nelly & Nanci Lee Randolph (Great Zina Paul. After watching models and Lengths), Shannon Sorbara, Chris stylists do their thing on stage, it was Licursi, Ginny Rapini, Georgia time to settle down for some serious Davenport, Marilyn Dodds, Nicole education. A succession of high profile Robinson & April Woodward, Jimmy guest speakers shared their skills and (The General) Toscano and his Design insights one after the other. Neil Team, Lisa Simon (Simon PR Firm), Greenberg and Lisa Simon outlined the Neil Greenberg (GFG Group), Julie brand-new VR marketing program and Gisler, Dean Muraco & Sal Massa, Jeffrey and Zina Paul, Ginny Rapini, Craig Black, Heather Simon (N. Hair Julie Gisler and Marilyn Dodds Society), Jennifer Karp, Dave Barker Jimmy Toscano & Steve Izzo explained how to setup a successful, (IHRS).

The Energizer just keeps going... and going... and going!

Ginny Rapini makes final touches

Chris Webb and friends after market forecasting

Julia Villaorduna and team

"All's well that ends well"


22 Hair Journal International Fall 2008

Yasas! Mykonos, Greece. 05/08 - New Image Labs held its 3rd Annual International Symposium at the Royal Myconian Hotel & Spa in Mykonos Greece and guests traveled from all over the globe to experience 2 days of non-stop education with five of the most talented experts in hair replacement. The location was nothing less than spectacular. Mykonos is a beautiful Greek island in the Aegean Sea, surrounded by crystal-clear,

• Ms. Penny Zagily, PHD, Co-Owner Prosthetic Hair Design in Athens Greece • Mr. Keith Zimmerman of Keith’s Hair Replacement in Wisconsin • Mr. Orsel Reenis of Holland Hair, Holland • Royal Myconian Hotel & Spa Day one kicked off with an early breakfast, after which Oscar Urzola welcomed his international guests and outlined the agenda for the next two days. Keith Zimmerman followed with a “Tricks of the Trade - Magic Solutions,” a presentation

of ‘program-selling,’ the secrets of a successful consultation, ways to work smarter-not harder, and how to increase profits with upgrade options. After lunch, Keith, Penny and Orsel conducted a detailed Lace presentation that covered attachment, full and perimeter bonding, color matching and proper maintenance. Oscar then presented New Image’s new synthetic wig line, ‘Expressions,’ designed for a price-con-

delighted by the Greek dancers, who included an older dancer (much older…) who performed feats that would defeat most men half his age!

Sunday morning arrived too quickly, but it came to life with “The Total Make-Over” by Penny Zagily. Orsel, Penny and Keith shared their tried-and-true methods for advanced bonding, time saving clean-up and coloring tricks. The grand-finale was a demonstration of the new full

covering ‘dealing with dissatisfied clients,’ ‘when to select stock vs. custom,’ ‘clean-up and bonding tricks,’ ‘improving customer satisfaction’ and ‘the value of your time.’ He was fol-

scious market. These modern, lightweight designs are appropriate for both the fashion and female pattern hair loss client.

blue waters. Over the next two days, attendees would learn about several new products including full French-lace base ladies designs, new full-head bonding adhesives for sensitive skin, and revolutionary new lace base top-of-the-head designs for both men and women. The educational team consisted of: • Mr. Henry Colon, International Sales Consultant for New Image Labs • Mr. Oscar Urzola, Director of International Sales and Product Development for New Image Labs

Press Release:

Looking Ahead to New Image’s 2008 Conference Growing Your Business in a Slow Economy Ft. Lauderdale, FL 8/27 - In spite of the slow economy, there are some hair replacement businesses having a record year and some even opening new locations. We thought we could all learn from their successes, so we plan to share their strategies with you at our Annual Conference. We also decided that the industry needs more than a new way to cut-in a hair system; it’s time for some “out of the box thinking.” Of course, we still plan to offer plenty of technical presentations, but even those classes will be directed towards growing your business. The first person we enlisted was Neil Ducoff. Neil isn’t actually in the hair replacement business, but he is one of the country’s most respected minds in business education. He is a best selling author and the founder of Strategies™, a premier business resource for professional salons, hotel resorts, medical spas… and now hair replacement centers. Neil will be delivering his message, “No Compromise Leadership.” and the first 100 attendees will receive an autographed copy of his latest book. Tom Scotti’s and Mike Montemurro’s businesses haven’t been affected negatively by the economy either. Their success is a direct result of a focus on five specif-

lowed by Orsel Reenis who introduced the ‘Destiny,’ a new all-lace ladies’ design featuring a non-slip contour fit technology. He also shared tips for selecting the proper attachments and maintaining and caring for the hair replacement. Keith then “got down to business” with a review ic areas. They call them the “5 Secrets” and you’ll learn all about them in their special presentation. Definitely one area that gets the axe in hard times is advertising. Leonard Venti has discovered some creative ways to advertise at a low cost with a high return on investment through E-Marketing. If your advertising budget has been minimized, Leonard will show you how this type of marketing has allowed his business to grow exponentially during these slow times. Are you offering your clients hair loss treatments and laser treatments? ScanHair Imaging Solutions has been specially prepared for the hair replacement industry and is exclusively distributed by New Image within the USA. It can help you attract new clients and re-energize existing clients with special in-salon treatment programs, examine and clarify scalp and hair conditions, give clients take-home evidence of their conditions and demonstrate potential hair loss results using your client’s photo image already on the PC. New Image’s Bruce Robertson will demonstrate the effectiveness of this exciting new tool. Many of New Image’s customers are taking advantage of Web Order Central. Processing and managing your orders on line has never been easier. New features are constantly being added and the result is more time generating income and less pushing paper. IT Administrator, Robert Burns reports that customers can now place orders online for Stock or Custom hair units and accessories at their specific star level pricing. They can research and compare hair replacement styles and colors by base material, and view the status of Custom orders by date and customer reference. And here’s something that your accounting department will like; you can now generate statements online, on demand with your choice of starting date, make payments on accounts using secure credit/debit card processing, and check on current promotions and new product announcements. Fresh back from the New Image Conference in

The final educational event of the day featured Penny’s make-over for a gentleman who had an unfortunate hair transplant that left him scarred and emotionally damaged. Her amazing demonstration took this man from shy and self conscious to confident and handsome. Saturday evening was the Gala Dinner and noone was disappointed. The crowd was especially Mykonos Greece, Keith Zimmerman has new ideas that will kick some extra fashion savvy into your hair addition services! He promises an inspiration-filled session that will include the latest lace and design trends from around the world. For those who don’t know Keith, he internationally recognized as one of the top authorities in hair replacement. Many hair replacement professionals have yet to penetrate the protective barrier that physicians put around their hairloss patients. But by not serving this client you are missing out on a major opportunity. Kristen Anderson, who has a background in the medical area, will share her success with inexpensive but effective marketing that can get you in the door of the medical community and help you become a preferred provider. Assisted by Ricky Knowles, Kristen will teach you how to deliver an effective consultation for the medical client, introduce a new wig line and show you how hand-tied cranial prostheses can restore a medical client’s appearance. New Image just returned from exhibiting at the Bronner Brothers Show the market for Ethnic Hair Replacement is definitely hot… and they want lace! Our ethnic division instructor, Bridgett Winton has prepared a special program to show you how to brand yourself and your studio as an authority on ethnic hair replacement and give you the skills to succeed. “They’re here to Stay!” We’re talking about how hair extensions have proven to be a main-stay of the beauty and hair replacement arena. This is an area that should not be overlooked by any salon. Quick and easy glueless methods will be featured in this segment, along with how to work with machine and skin wefts. Our instructor will be Christina Villemure. If you haven’t seen the effects that Keratin Complex Therapy has on dull and frizzy, curly or unruly hair, you’re going to be amazed when Gilberto Febles

cranial, all lace Destiny design - with Uri Gross from Israel providing step by step details of Orsel’s every move. The model was a male who required full cranial coverage and the Destiny was the perfect solution. The New Image International Symposium was a memorable and valuable experience we never wanted to end. From all of us, and from our new Greek friends, Yasas! demonstrates this smoothing system that infuses keratin deep into the hair cuticle while eliminating up to ninetyfive percent of the frizz and curl from the hair. Unlike caustic chemical relaxers that all but destroy the hair, Keratin Complex actually leaves the hair in better condition than before! Regina Villemure, founder of Children with Hair Loss, will teach a special segment that will motivate you to open your doors and hearts to serve children whose quality of life has been negatively affected by hair loss. It is their mission to empower these children to become whole again by making hair available to those who are financially challenged and might otherwise not have a means of obtaining the hair they need. David Lagadi will teach “The First Step,” an introductory men’s hair replacement class that will demonstrate the methods necessary to provide basic hair replacement services. Jimmy “The General” Toscano will take command and show how to create the “Ultimate Hairline.” This is an advanced-level class that includes the proper procedures for working with thin skin designs and includes full head bonding. It is an excellent opportunity to ask the General technical questions about the advanced products New Image provides. After Sunday’s full day of non-stop education, everyone will be ready a relaxing evening and the Westin Diplomat Resort has prepared a fabulous ocean-side dinner party. On Day two, Gilberto Febles will demonstrate the Keratin Complex Therapy Process. Immediately following this class, everyone will break out into the educational sessions of their choice. New Image’s goal during this two-day, high-energy conference is to introduce owners and technicians to new important business opportunities and, by doing so, expand their potential for growth and prosperity during this economic downturn.


23 Hair Journal International Fall 2008

AHLC Hails Vision 20/20 Conference as “Smashing Success.” Ft Lauderdale, FL. 04/08 - The American Hair Loss Council (AHLC) 2008 “Vision 20/20” Conference began with a formal gala that allowed members to mix and bond prior to presentations from Metropolitan and OnRite corporations whose models intro-

and educational support. Innovation was on the mind of Metropolitan Corp’s President Richard Schoonover as he unveiled the technology behind new Hotheads Hair Wear. Marketing consultant, Michael Garcia held back-to-back courses on improv-

AHLC Board of Directors incognito: L-R: Betty Bugden, Susan Kettering, Peggy Thornhill, Marsha Scott

Reneé Meier and others in-session with Metropolitan Hair

duced the artistic and technical products that would be presented the following day. Sunday kicked off with a motivational presentation by Dave Fatula who challenged members to reflect on the personal values that allow them to run their businesses and connect with their client. OnRite Corporation then took the stage with JonaLee Schmidt presenting a beautiful model and demonstrating solutions for medical-related hair loss in women. She later hosted a special class that highlighted OnRite’s professional products

ing business using the Internet, challenging the “outdated” industry message of, “Look Good” in favor of, “Feel Good.” Nioxin Corporation was also on hand to demonstrate how to keep and enhance your existing hair. Vendor tables offered samples and literature from Custom Converting Tape Corp., OnRite and Renee Meier/Gisela Mayer Hair Collection. AHLC Members: Eloise Fergusen, Michelle Martin, Kimberly Palmer, Charline Cormier-Gallant, Joffre Malensant

Following the AHLC annual business meeting, members spoke optimistically about the conference and the goals and standards set for the following year. Everyone walked away

feeling inspired and invigorated by the education and time spent working to improve business and the industry. The AHLC’s next

Meatballs, Ice Cream and Getting Rich By Phil Fennell In his most recent book, “Meatball Sundae,” marketing guru Seth Godin lays out his 14 irrefutable laws of marketing for today’s realworld economy. The book’s title comes from the fact that the real money today is being made by those who find, create and successfully market innovative products and solutions. In other words, if you made your fortune in the past from selling meatballs, it isn’t going to work any longer. Everyone’s had their fill of meatballs. They are ready for ice cream; they’re just not sure of the flavor. But remember, if you promise them the perfect ice-cream sundae but after a couple of bites they hit meatballs again, you’re done for! What has this got to do with the world of Hair Restoration? Well, not only are many of us still trying to sell meatballs, but in the consumer’s mind, they’re bad meatballs! We’ve all discussed this after industry meetings and hair conferences, but nothing seems to change. Today’s consumers still have a bad taste left over from the days of “rug’s, plugs and snake oils” and they’re not going to take it anymore. They are smart, extremely leery and via the internet have access to more information than we can possibly market against. But hold on; even in today’s soft economy it’s not time to slit our wrists just yet! Do you realize more self-made millionaires made their fortunes during recessions than any time in our history? And those that made it got Seth Godwin’s point (even if the book had yet to be written). They got rich by following three fundamental principles: Tough financial times will always create excellent financial possibilities. They are not “overwhelming problems;” they are the foundation for “creative opportunities.” Just ask Bill Gates

or Michael Dell. The secret is “identifying these creative opportunities!” No matter how tight money may get, the American consumer has always risen to the purchasing occasion - if you have something he or she really wants! Once you’ve identified the creative opportunity, you can’t hold back. That’s what everyone else is doing! It’s got to be a no-holds-barred operation to pull it off. Here are a few key pointers that will help your Hair Center come out of our current economic downturn stronger and more profitable than ever: You must re-evaluate and know your best qualified consumer/leads more than ever before. The shot-gun approach to marketing no longer works in our industry. Never lose site of the challenge of the “rugs and plugs” stereotype our industry has foisted upon itself. It doesn’t mean that market still doesn’t exist, but it does mean the trust factor has to be re-built. Your hair replacement programs and transplantation processes had better be the best there is to offer. Although it is said that 47% of our population experiences some type of hair loss and is actively seeking a remedy, don’t kid yourself. Between the hair-loss stereotype and Michael Jordon, the real market for hair replacement has shrunk significantly. But even if the market potential is smaller statistically, most hair loss sufferers would welcome a solution to their situation if only you could promise them one or both of the following: Stop their hair loss right where it is. Help them to grow just some of it back. Those solutions exist today. This new consumer is more educated than ever and if they do not have all the hair loss facts, they can become a savvy customer within five

minutes in the privacy of their own home. It’s called the Internet! That’s why you have to stay one step ahead. You’ve got to offer your clients multiple choices. If it’s out there and it works, you’ve got to offer it. Remember, no holds barred. In today’s market place, only one or two irons in the fire will get you killed eventually. Always has! Something about “all the eggs in one basket.” You cannot do it without using the latest technology to advance your business. You can no longer go it alone. Whether it’s salon-management software, hair analysis scopes or light therapy, if it works for others, it will work for you. “Technology –(gives you the) – Data – (necessary to determine) – Solutions” READ SETH’S BOOK! Marketing, as we’ve practiced it in the past, is minimally effective today. It’s time to learn new tricks. Finally, fear not, you are not alone. There are a lot of salon and clinic owners out there who are still taking vacations, driving big cars and sleeping well at night. Most of them will share their experience with you. That’s why I recommend that you join network organizations like The National Hair Society and talk with as many members as you can. They didn’t make it by selling meatballs and I think you’ll find they’re more than happy to share today’s flavor of icecream!

Phil Fennell - Hair Journal readers are sure to have seen Phil at any one of the industry leading conferences where is in demand as a speaker and coach. Phil has over 30 years of management and ownership experience and 16 years as an international performing artist and educator. He has presented such programs as PSE’s nationally acclaimed, “Managing in the Real World. Phil recently accepted the position of Senior Industry Consultant for KORVUE Software, Salon & Spa Division.

Vision 20/20 Conference will be held April 25-27, 2009. Log onto ahlc.org for updates as they become available.

On Rite Introduces New Ethnic Line For Women Ft. Lauderdale - The On Rite Company introduced its new ethnic line of women’s augmentation products at the Bronner Brothers® Show in Atlanta in early August to rave reviews. Named the Rio Collection, the line of full lace cap wigs, enhancements and closures is intended for women with hair loss or those simply desiring an alternative high-fashion look. Designed by ethnic women for ethnic women, the Rio Collection is intended as an upgrade to what was previously available to this market. At the Bronner Brothers show, the Rio Collection was highly regarded by the nearly 50,000 trade professionals in audience. The Rio booth saw overflow crowds and had to stay open past the show’s closing to accommodate the enthusiastic audience. Two highly regarded ethnic designers, Kim Truitt and Sharon Williams, demonstrated the product’s virtues and versatility to the crowd. The key to its overwhelmingly positive reception, according to On Rite staff members who attended the show, is the line’s exclusive use of 100% Remi hair. “For many mainstream manufacturer’s, the ethnic market is an afterthought”, said On Rite’s Sandy Carpenter. “But Andy (On Rite president Andrew Wright) would not get involved with this market segment unless he could offer something of the highest quality. And that’s what the Bronner Brothers’ audience appreciated most—the quality”, according to Carpenter. “We put a lot of thought into the design of the Rio Collection”, said Wright. “We saw no point in coming out with something just to have an ethnic line, or to just develop something that mainstream studios could sell to the occasional woman of color. We’re targeting ethnic studios and salons with a product developed by ethnic designers; we intend to have ethnic representation, and we’re backing this venture with considerable resources; I can’t even begin to tell you what we spent in research and development. But I will tell you that based on the initial reaction we received, it was well worth it.”


24 Hair Journal International Fall 2008


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