Medical
Marketing
Industry
Events
Why Foam?
Look Out World
Shame!
It’s Show Time
Rogain 2011
Aderans is on a roll
Racing to the bottom
Manufacturers busier than ever.
Dr. Robert Leonard explains
Armen markerian is at the helm
Hair Journal says enough is enough
See what you missed...
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pg. 4
pg. 21
pg. 19
The National Hair Journal VOLUME 15 NO. 58
THE PROFESSIONAL PUBLICATION OF HAIR AND SKIN REJUVENATION
New Image Sold to Hiking Group West Palm Beach, FL. 06/11 - New Image Laboratories, a dominant force in non-surgical hair replacement, has been sold to Hiking Group, the largest import and export company in Qingdao, China with extensive business interests ranging from clothing and jewelry to hair extensions and additions. Hiking has always had a strong interest in the North American market and this is the culmination of a long-term relationship with New Image and its founder and chairman, Les Martin. New Image was perhaps at its most ebullient when larger than life, Randy Martin was at the helm, but Randy was tragically killed in an automobile accident after returning from one of his regular business trips to China. Randy
PBA Helps Prevent Deregulation Phoenix, AZ . 5/11 - The Professional Beauty Association's (PBA) government advocacy efforts helped prevent passage of New Hampshire House Bill 466-FN, which would have deregulated the state's cosmetology industry. By taking swift action to alert beauty professionals in New Hampshire and the industry at large, PBA's government affairs department was able to organize supporters who sent a clear message to state legislators that deregulation was not in the best interest of consumers and licensed beauty professionals. PBA's government advocacy team is also on the forefront of fighting for tax/tip legislation, providing clarity relating to keratin hair smoothing treatments, and advising on several other matters that affect the livelihoods of members and non-members alike that work in the beauty industry.
Taking Green Seriously What Sustainability Means to P&G Everyone is taking steps to protect their clients from harmful chemicals and the planet from further deterioration. Awareness of these problems may have started at the grass roots level, but take a look at what the world’s largest personal care company has achieved since 2002! The following is an extract from the company’s website: Procter & Gamble, defines sustainability as ensuring a better quality of life for everyone, now and for generations to come. By adopting a three-pronged approach— product, production and corporate social responsibility—P&G can make these sustainability goals and successes possible. To date, P&G has made some significant progress, but there’s still more to be done:
was succeeded by Tony Sciara who steered New Image into new product opportunities and restructured its manufacturing base. Tragedy struck the Martin family a second time in October 2010 when Kae, Les Martin’s wife of 59 years, died suddenly in October 2010. Kae, a star in her own right, was the inspiration for First Lady, a women’s wig company she created over forty years ago to provide glamorous wigs to the public, just like the ones she wore every week on a popular TV dance show. In a letter to friends and customers, company president, Tony Sciara emphasized the importance of a strong overseas production base, “Anticipating economic growth in China was
Race Against Hair Loss Ottawa, ON. 05/11 - PAI Medical has launched a new sponsorship program with GT3
Cup racer, Perry Bortolotti. Perry will be a key spokesperson in PAI’s latest marketing campaign, which has a racing theme, aptly summarized in the tagline, “Win the Race Against
Hair Loss”. The objective of the campaign is to raise awareness, build the client base, give PAI a “cool factor” and give past, current and future clients the pride of being associated with the renowned Porsche brand. PAI Corporate developed the “Win the Race Against Hair Loss” after careful consideration of their client demographics and the things that interest and excite them. As an internationally renowned Porsche GT3 Racer, Bortolotti embodies the qualities and standards exemplified by Porsche, a brand that is highly regarded and coveted by PAI’s target market. Porsche also shares many similarities with PAI, such as superior workmanship, artistry, style and history of success. Both the PAI and Porsche brands symbolize a zest for life and sense of achievement to those they serve.
i-HairCut
Improve Through Responsibility: Improving lives around globe is a crucial part of P&G strategies. Goals include enabling 300 million children to live, learn and thrive, preventing 160 million days of disease, and saving 20,000 lives by delivering 4 billion liters of clean drinking water through our Children’s Safe Drinking Water Program.
Minneapolis, MN 06/11 - Gone are the days folks would spend hours leisurely hanging out at the corner beauty parlor or barber shop. Today’s fast lane families want to get in and out with a stylish haircut that doesn’t eat up a chunk of their wallet or time. That’s why Great Clips is launching the hair care industry’s first ever Online Check-In. Great Clips is using this high tech marketing to attract all customers but especially males who make up 70% of their customer base. Folks can check in from their computers or cell phones and when they arrive at a salon, they are next in line with little or no wait. Great Clips, Inc. was established in 1982 in Minneapolis. Today, Great Clips has nearly 3,000 salons throughout the United States and Canada, making it the world’s largest salon brand.
Improve Through Products: P&G strives to delight consumers with sustainable innovations that improve the environmental profile of its products. With a goal to develop and market $50 billion worth of sustainable innovation products, P&G is on its way with $13.1 billion sold since July 2007. For now, these accomplishments represent steps in P&G’s long journey to become a more sustainable company, a feat that was recognized in 2009 & 2010 by the Corporate Knights, who named P&G as a top 100 sustainable company.
It’s Midnight...
beauty shop supplier in Michigan and carried out heists nationwide in which they have made off with tens of thousands of dollars of hair at a time.” In May, bandits targeted My Trendy Place salon in Houston where they ripped off $150,000 of premium Remy hair. But the lawlessness didn’t stop there. “Between May and June, thieves have also taken $10,000 in hair from a San Diego shop; $85,000 from a business in Missouri City, TX, $10,000 from a shop in Dearborn, MI.; and $60,000 from a business in San Leandro, CA.”
Murrieta, CA. 06/11 – Salon owners know hair prices are going through the roof. So do the thieves. In recent months there has been a wave of hair thefts that show that the underworld fully understands the value of a pound of hair. The New York Times reported that, “During the past two months alone, robbers in quest of human hair have killed a
Sciara reassured customers that New Image ownership might have changed, but its commitment to the hair replacement market was stronger than ever, “Les has deep affection for New Image and wants to ensure that the brand and passion continue successfully into the future. Les Martin will maintain his post on the Board of Directors and in addition will act as “Global Advisor” to the Hiking Group on matters related to our industry.”
reduction per unit production in CO2 emissions, energy consumption, water consumption and disposed waste from P&G plants, leading to a total reduction over the decade of at least 50%.
Improve Through Production: Since July 2002, P&G has reduced energy usage by 48%, CO2 emissions by 52%, waste disposal by 53%, and water usage by 52%. P&G aims to improve the environmental profile of all operations, with goals to deliver an additional 20%
Do You Know Where Your Hair Is?
the main reason for my move to Hong Kong in 2001. As a company we felt it was necessary to make this commitment to secure future production... I am confident that we are well ahead of the curve on our strategy of providing continuity of future product supply.”
1st Online Check-In
Special Olympics Participants Honored Boca Raton, FL. 04/11 - The ‘Day of Beauty’ festival is a day of makeovers for participants in the Special Olympics and their teachers. There is no admission cost for participants, and the makeovers are performed free of charge. Volunteers donate their time, and businesses across Atlanta provide the necessary products for the makeovers. The festival founder, Gloria Owczarski, was a former Special Olympics swimming coach and still organizes most of the event’s details.
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SUMMER 2011
Coming to a Clinic Near You Robotic Hair Transplantation Mountain View, CA. 04/11 – Hair transplantation will never be the same. Automation has come to the operating room. Restoration Robotics, Inc. a privately held medical device company, has received 510K clearance from the Food & Drug Administration (FDA) for its ARTAS™ System, designed to harvest hair follicles from the scalp in men diagnosed with androgenetic alopecia (male pattern hair loss) with black or brown straight hair. ARTAS is a physiciancontrolled, state-of-the-art, interactive, computerassisted system that enables harvesting of hair follicles during hair restoration procedures.It combines several features including an image-guided robotic arm,special imaging technologies, small dermal punches, and a computer interface. After the System is positioned over the patient’s donor area, ARTAS is capable of identifying and harvesting follicular units, which are then stored until they are implanted into the patient’s recipient area using current manual techniques.
Skin – The New Frontier Skin and facial rejuvenation accounted for more than 2.2 million of the more than 9.3 million cosmetic enhancement procedures performed in 2010, according to the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS). Americans spent nearly $10.7 billion on cosmetic procedures. Of that total almost $6.6 billion was spent on surgical procedures; $1.9 billion was spent on injectable procedures; $1.8 billion was spent on skin rejuvenation.
MALE PLASTIC SURGERY ON THE RISE! Beverly Hills, CA. 06/11 - Thousands of men across the country are choosing to improve their self-image by surgically improving their appearance. “Recent statistics show that men were not shaken by the economic woes of 2010, and even splurged on cosmetic surgery procedures such as Facelifts, Eyelifts, Facial Fillers and Liposuction,” said Richard Fleming, M.D., co-director with Toby Mayer, M.D. of the Beverly Hills Institute of Aesthetic & Reconstructive Surgery. Plastic surgery has long been regarded as a “woman’s domain.” However, today’s men have come to realize the importance and benefits of a more attractive, dynamic appearance. According to Dr’s. Fleming and Mayer, twenty- five percent of male patients attribute the reason for choosing cosmetic surgery to career related advancement. Forty-five percent of male patients confessed to having surgery to obtain a more youthful image. Thirty percent realized that how they feel when they look in the mirror has a great deal to do with self-confidence.
The Club That Keeps on Going and Going Omaha, NE 05/11 – Recession, what recession? On May 10, Hair Club opened its latest hair loss treatment center in Omaha, Nebraska in May, bringing the total number of offices to 96. Hair Club is the largest network in the hair restoration and hair replacement industry, with locations throughout the United States, Canada, and Puerto Rico.
3 The National Hair Journal Summer 2011
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The Silk Road – Yet another North American hair distributor has been taken over by its Chinese manufacturer. In June, New Image joined On Rite and passed operational control to the company that had been supplying it with hair goods for many years. Of course, Tokyobased Aderans already owned Renee of Paris, International Hair Goods, Revlon And Bosley, so this was just the latest step in a game plan that has been unfolding over the last ten years. If you do the math, over 80% of the US hair replacement market is now in foreign hands. The reasons for this are twofold. Firstly, the families that made a fortune in the golden days of hair replacement are now ready to cash out. Secondly, politicians and economists in China are aggressively encouraging businesses that were once satisfied to be low skill manufacturing centers to move into marketing and distribution in order to secure higher profit margins and global influence. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing. The efficiencies from this kind of vertical integration keep prices down and facilitate better communications between customers and producers. However, as in any marketplace, too much power in too few hands is not a good thing. Innovation demands competition, and that is why there will always be a need for boutique designers and a new generation of startup family businesses to keep pushing the envelope. It should be remembered that David Gold in Europe created Great Lengths, the most popular hair extensions. And the ultra-sophisticated Follea women’s wigs are designed by the son of the founder of Renee of Paris and fashioned from European hair. SOCAP can be traced back to Italy, once the world center of wig making, and still an international fashion powerhouse. It is this dynamic competition between the manufacturing monoliths and the nimble, fashion-sensitive companies that will guarantee our customers an exciting and innovative future. Hairloss and Presidential Elections– Washington is already gearing up for the next presidential election. Candidates will promise us a better, shinier, happier, healthier and more prosperous America! The hairloss market could learn from this. Why does an industry that has the power to change lives as dramatically as we do remain so silent? If we had candidates who had to compete for public office, things might be different. In the absence of any such organization, we let other people do the talking for us. That’s why we continue to see the kinds of YouTube videos and TV programs that the Hair Journal has flagged on page... in our article entitled, “As we see it.” But every now and then there is a little ray of hope and I invite you to bask in the sunshine created by PAI and their Porsche racecar campaign! A thick head of hair, excitement, virility... and a Porsche seem great companions to me. Way to go Pierre! AHLC Needs to Clean House – For many years, The National Hair Journal has been a staunch supporter of the American Hair Loss Council, even in its darkest hour. We have offered special discounts and privileges to its members to encourage salons to join the organization. So it was a surprise to learn that Bobbi Russell, one of the directors and contributors to our sister company, The National Hair Society, was being “reconsidered” for a position on the board of AHLC. Why? Because she was a Society director! Does this matter? Should it matter? Not to us; we would welcome any AHLC director to contribute their expertise to The Journal or The Society. The stronger we are, the better we can support the hairloss industry. But it seems this is not a two way street. So if AHLC does not share our philosophy of
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everyone pulling together for the benefit of all, then we have a fundamental difference of values. With reluctance therefore, The National Hair Journal is withdrawing its support for AHLC and revoking the privileges it used to extend to its members. We realize this action was precipitated by the behavior of certain AHLC directors who may not represent the opinions of the full board, but it is not our job to do their housekeeping. That has to come from within. Email Alerts – From time to time, important news crosses our desk that you need to know about right away. When this happens, we would like to send you a Flash Report so you can act on while it’s still hot... or stay clear if it’s getting too hot! If you would like to benefit from these bulletins, send your contact information to info@nationalhairjournal.com. All information will be kept private. People in the News – Once again, we are pleased to be bringing you insights and opinions from industry leaders. Armen Markarian, president, CEO of Bosley and Aderans Hair Goods describes how the consolidation of the company’s US assets is proceeding and how they are emerging from the recession with record profits. Bill Blatter, CEO of Hair Loss Control Clinic, the largest online hairloss accessory marketplace, explains how he built a unique support program. Dr. Robert Haber, spokesperson for Rogaine talks about the benefits of the new foam formulation and shares his tips for the most effective and convenient application. And Yvonne Solomon talks with trichologist, David Salinger, the executive director of the International Association of Tricologists (USA), about the importance of serious education and asks if perhaps there could be a middle ground. We also bring you updates from the latest conferences and workshops, styling tips from “The General” and marketing advice from Madison Avenue wiz-kid, Steven DiManni. Have a great summer! Chris Webb
Editor-in-Chief
Letters to the
Editor Dear Editor, Just a quick note to let you know I think you are "spot on" with your thoughts about the homogeneity of the hair replacement industry. As an increasing number of once outstanding companies succumb to increasingly price-driven Chinese factory ownership, now is the time to aggressively promote a "beauty-aboveall" orientation. Superiority by quality of design, artisanal fabrication and outstanding service, costs money. But these are also the virtues that increase customer loyalty and referral rate, improve top and bottom line performance and breed positive online testimonials. These virtues should be driving the industry and setting it apart from the virtual world of online, faceless, serviceless vendors, as well as the myriad, low quality wig shops. Now is the time to choose sides: lost in the crowd, or riding above it. Vive la difference! Sinverely, Michael Leigh. President, Follea Inc. Beverly Hills, USA.
4 The National Hair Journal Summer 2011
Look Out World! Aderans 2011 – An Update
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t was in September 2010 that The National Hair
Journal reported on the reorganization of Aderans, the world’s largest manufacturer and distributor of hair systems and provider of comprehensive hair loss solutions. That was 10 months ago. A lot has happened since then. Where there were six companies in 2010 in the US, today there are only two (excluding Aderans Research Institute).
On the medical side, Medical Hair
Restoration (MHR) has been folded into Bosley. The USbased wig and hair extension businesses have been simArmen Markarian, President and CEO of Bosley & AHG
ilarly consolidated into one parent company, Aderans Hair Goods. To find out how this reorganization is proceeding, the Journal traveled to Aderans’ US headquarters in Beverly Hills to talk with the President and CEO of both Bosley and AHG, Armen Markarian. NHJ: Armen, you wear many hats. For the benefit of our readers could you clarify your official title and responsibilities? AM: I am President and Chief Executive Officer of Bosley, and President and Chief Executive Officer of Aderans Hair Goods. NHJ: Could you explain the new structure of Aderans Hair Goods and the companies that comprise it? AM: Aderans Hair Goods is a consolidation of the different wig companies that Aderans Japan owns in the U.S. They were brought together in May of 2010 and integrated into one company called Aderans Hair Goods. Those original companies and brands were, Rene of Paris, New Concepts, General Wig, Revlon, TressAllure and IHI/DK, located respectively in Southern California, Florida, and Minneapolis. Now all operations are centralized here in Beverly Hills at the Bosley Headquarters. NHJ: How is the centralization proceeding? Are the companies keeping their individual personalities and clients? AM: It’s proceeding well. We had some challenges at the beginning. We spent most of last summer and fall bringing these disparate businesses together and making one company out of them. This involved reviewing different brand strategies, customer lists, employees and different cultures. We believe we’ve overcome all that, as well as some attendant operational issues involving warehouse management and inventory systems. We’re now focused on the marketing strategies that will move this company forward as a wholesaler in the U.S. NHJ: Do the original companies remain subsidiaries of Aderans, or are they now ‘brands’? AM: They’re ‘brands’ within one company, Aderans Hair Goods. Those brands are Rene of Paris, and its products, TressAllure and its products and Revlon and its products. We’re also developing several exciting new lines to help us move forward. NHJ: How would you characterize the personality of the different brands? AM: They each address different
target market segments. We still maintain a separate sales force that focuses on the Rene of Paris brands and another one for the Revlon and TressAllure brands, but we’re in the process of cross-training them so that they can begin to support each other’s customers. That’s been part of the challenge. But, the brands themselves haven’t changed per se; there’s a lot of equity in those brand names and a lot of loyal customers. Despite some disruptions we experienced initially, we’re beyond that now and focused on servicing our customers and growing the business. Our customers and clients have been incredibly supportive. NHJ: You’ve relocated most of the brands to Beverly Hills, with the exception of International Hair Goods (IHI), which remains in Minneapolis. What is the logic behind that? AM: International Hair Goods has the only retail operation that Aderans owns in the U.S. It happens to be in Minneapolis. They have their own warehouse, their own designers and the whole supply chain. It is an efficiently run unit, so the decision was made to leave it as it is for now. NHJ: When you visited Aderans with The National Hair Society five or six years ago, it was just to try and understand another side of the marketplace... now, you’re running that other side of the marketplace. What do you want to bring to the total hair loss market? AM: It has certainly been an eyeopening experience, because, as you know, my focus used to be strictly on the surgical solution - Bosley. I’m still focused on Bosley. We’ve always positioned Bosley as the best in the world at what we do and argued that people come to us after they’ve tried other options and now are ready for a ‘permanent’ solution. I believe Bosley is still the best in the hair restoration business, but I’ve come to understand that wigs and hair additions also play a key role in satisfying consumer needs. Wigs and extensions are primarily for women, and I’m genuinely excited to be part of a company that holds almost universal appeal to women who not only want a solution for a
hair loss, they demand a fashion statement as well. There are a lot of people out there of all ages who like to change their looks to fit their personality or mood. And that’s what we can offer. It’s exciting to be part of an industry that helps provide those kinds of solutions. I bring a deep knowledge of the needs and psychology of hair loss suffers, plus the management skills to manage the operations that go into providing those solutions, whether at the wholesale, retail or direct to patient level. NHJ: Bosley is proud of its reputation as a premium hair restoration company. How do you safeguard the mountaintop? AM: The foundation of that reputation is the quality of the work that we do. That quality is based on standards that were established at the very founding of the company by Dr. L. Lee Bosley in 1974. Although techniques have evolved over the years, and we’ve gone through all the iterations of surgical hair
Dr. Ken Washenik, Medical Director
restoration, our commitment to providing the very best care and the very best service has never changed. How do we keep it going? Through a variety of programs. Dr. Ken Washenik, our medical director, plays a huge and central role. We have 23 surgical offices and every one of them gets a couple of visits a year from Dr. Washenik and me, as well as members of our management team. So, they all know that they’re part of a broader enterprise, one that has established a set of quality control standards to which we adhere religiously. There’s also a quality assurance committee, made up of doctors and nurses and administrative personnel that meets once a
month and reviews patient charts from two surgical offices. Then there are our training programs... which are comprehensive, thorough and accountable. We have special programs for our doctors, clinical staff and our counselors. To monitor this critical QA program requires maintaining a complete set of performance metrics. We review and analyze these metrics on a daily, weekly and monthly basis to ensure that every patient receives the outstanding care for which Bosley is renowned. NHJ: Bosley recorded record profits last year; it wasn’t the easiest year to be doing business. What was the secret of this success? AM: Well, I would like to point to exceptional executive management and leadership, but I can’t say that... at least not exclusively! Actually, I think it’s several things. Firstly, we came through a very difficult time, as did a lot of people in our industry. We definitely took some hits like everyone else, but we saw it coming. We anticipated it. As a result, we had a laser-like focus on expense We management and control. shrank our company, our clinical staff and our administrative support staff here in Beverly Hills, and relocated our call center operations. We calibrated our resources to projected demand. One thing we didn’t do however during that entire period is close a surgical office. So, we still have the same footprint. We’re there for our patients. In fact, we expanded last year when we merged with Medical Hair Restoration and took on some of their surviving surgical offices in markets in which we were not already located. So, yes, it’s an ongoing challenge to maintain those quality standards and to do it in an environment where we have to adopt some pretty austere measures, but we’re succeeding and it’s showing on the bottom line. NHJ: They say you’re only as good as the people you employee. How selective is Bosley when choosing the people it brings onboard? AM: Well, I’ve always said our employees, or as we call them our ‘team members’, are our greatest asset. And, that continues to be true. I come to work everyday with 400 of what I consider to be the greatest people to work with in this industry; perhaps anywhere. I see daily examples of that commitment in emails, phone calls and testimonials from patients who had services provided by Bosley. We sent out a casting call recently, because we’re producing a new infomercial and needed new testimonials and we were flooded
with people who wanted to express their appreciation and show off their looks. We promise a lot in our advertising; we promise a lot in our consultations. The keepers of those promises are the doctors and the clinical staff and the support personnel that keep the operations going. Without them our promises would be hollow. NHJ: We talked earlier about the medical and the non-medical sides of the business. Each of them has its own challenges. On the non-medical side there are rising prices, changing consumer preferences and a demographic tsunami as the population ages. And, on the medical side there are robotics and cell multiplication, not to mention white-hot competition. What do you see from the bridge as you look ahead? AM: Costs are going up everywhere. That is impacting both sides of the business. On the AHG side, we’re still in the process of formulating strategies to adapt to a very dynamic marketplace. I think we’re going to see more focused marketing - identifying the key retailers, distributors and massmarket channels. We’re looking at affiliations that might help us in that process. So, tell your readers to stay tuned for a lot of exciting things coming up. On the Bosley side, those same challenges have always been there. It’s always a changing demographic. Yes, the aging baby boomers comprise a large segment of our patient population, but even a larger segment of our consultation population are people still in their early to mid 30’s. And, patients who actually commit to a procedure tend to be in their mid 40’s and up, so we need to meet somewhere in the middle. We want a younger demographic to see Bosley as their permanent hair loss solution. That goes to our marketing message and how we convey it to the marketplace. That’s an ongoing challenge and I’m confident we’re up to it. NHJ: We have talked exclusively about developments in North America. Do you have any plans for overseas expansion? AM: We’re looking for expansion on the Bosley side with the help of our parent company. We’re opening a Bosley clinic in China this summer. It will be located inside the dermatology department of Huashan Hospital, a major teaching hospital located in Shanghai. We’re very excited about this. In fact, as we speak, we’re training the doctors and the nurses and a counselor who are going to be the workforce for that clinic. We’re training them right here in Beverly Hills and in our San Francisco surgical office. Dr. Washenik and I, along with the outstanding
Aderans Shanghai team, have been working on this project for almost a year now. In addition to this project, we’re looking at opportunities to affiliate with or have a presence in other markets in Asia, such as South Korea, India, Singapore, Hong Kong, Tokyo, Manila and other cities. So, look out world, here we come. NHJ: We’ll tell the world to be on NHJ the alert!
5 The National Hair Journal Summer 2011
IT’S MARKETING, OR IT’S NOTHING… for the men’s hair replacement business. By Steven DiManni
Every hair replacement studio with a male clientele should pay special attention, in my humble opinion, to this article. If you only offer women’s hair augmentation, or are only interested in providing transplants or “head rubbing”, there’s no need to go any farther. You have a pass. However, if you are like the majority of hair replacement studios who have built their businesses, at least initially, on the men’s business, what I have to say might be of great value to you. Only you can decide. I don’t have all the answers, to be very honest. But I do have many questions. Perhaps those of you who are reading this have the same questions. Great. Perhaps you’ve never considered the questions I am about to outline. That’s pretty good as well. Without further preamble, let me get down to brass tacks, ok?
Eight Questions. Question 1: If the men’s hair replacement market is on the decline, why does Hair Club continue to put so much money into its advertising? Question 2: How can Hair Club make money from its advertising? Question 3: Why are fewer men shaving their heads? (Yes we are seeing buzz cuts, short haircuts to be sure, but head shaving seems to be suddenly out of vogue.) Question 4: Why are we seeing more publicity, and fewer denials, from Hollywood lead man types such as John Travolta and Nicholas Cage about their hair grafts/augmentations? Question 5: This goes to the above. Elton John is wearing some type of hair augmentation, yet he claims it is a transplant. Have you noticed that this has since not been a topic of discussion regarding him? Question 6: Donald Trump does not wear a hair augmentation. He has a comb over. Yet in the media, they keep talking about him wearing a toupee, even though it is apparently his own hair. What’s up with that? Question 7: Have you noticed the dearth of advertising from Rogaine as of late? Question 8: Have you noticed the absence of Propecia advertising?
What Does It All Mean? Well, your guess is as good as mine, truly it is. But let me tell you what “my guess” is. I think, in a very subtle way, that men’s non-surgical hair replacement, for lack of a better term, is finally working its way into the public’s consciousness as an accepted practice. Here’s why I believe so. Let’s start with the distaff side (women): liposuction, breast implants, plastic surgery and Botox are becoming the rule, not the exceptions. From a unisex standpoint, so are tooth whitening, tooth caps, contact lenses, etc. Yes, these have all been around for a while, we all know that, but what I am saying is that over time, say the past twenty years or so, they have now gained wider acceptance. Now, let’s move to men, specifically men’s skin care, which for years, was pooh-poohed as something less than masculine. But now that “masculine” companies such as Gillette, and Shick, and new upstarts such as Axe and others, are promoting skin care, it is becoming accepted. So too are men’s hair care products, such as styling gels, mousse, et. al. It’s not so “strange” anymore, nor is it the province of “metrosexuals” or Hollywood “pretty boys”.
Take A Lesson From The Surgical Industry. As I have long suggested in my columns in this august publication, the hair transplant industry has been very “up front” in touting their technological improvements as well as their past transgressions. They admit that they’ve come a long way from the “corn row” transplants of years ago. They widely tout their micro-grafts, mini-grafts, et. al, that contributes to a more natural look. When was the last time that you heard anyone from the non-surgical business admit that the previous product the industry offered was less than ideal? Moreover, when was the last time you heard anyone from our business touting our advances? Not lately? How about, “not ever?”
Take A Lesson From Our Industry. Ok, let’s go back to the glory days of the late 1980s and 1990s; up until that time we were very “under marketed”, in that, there was very little advertising of our services. That resulted in “pent up” demand, meaning that very few people who were losing their hair were aware that non-surgical hair replacement was an alternative. Flash forward to 2011. For the past decade or so, most hair replacement studios have been reluctant to advertise non-surgical hair for men. That means you have almost a whole generation of men who don’t even know anything POSITIVE about our product. Yeah, they’ve heard all the negatives about the 1980s ads of Hair Club, parodied by the 2003 campaigns of Bud Light and Geico, and also, satirized by every late night TV show from Jay Leno to Saturday Night Live. But they haven’t ever heard OUR SIDE OF THE STORY.
Why? Because We Haven’t Told Them. Let me give you an analogy. For those of us over the age of forty, we can recall the old bias-ply tires from Goodyear, Firestone, et. al. They lasted for about 12,000 miles, were very unreliable, and had horrible handling properties. Then came radial tires, and soon thereafter, steel-belted radial tires. All of a sudden tire life went from 12,000 miles to 40,000 miles. As well, handling improved as did fuel economy. Every major tire manufacturer was all over the airwaves to promote these improvements. Well, my friends, back in the 80s and 90s, we had “hair replacement systems”, that were sewn or snapped on to a “track” made of the recipient’s existing hair. Remember those days? Well, everyone does, even those folks in their 20s and 30s who are still exposed to the silliness of this advertising, since it still exists. What hasn’t happened was any mention to the improvements, technologically, that have made today’s non-surgical hair replacement as dramatically different as today’s surgical hair replacement.
Let’s Get Back To The Premise Of This Article… Which is, “It’s marketing, or it’s nothing for the men’s hair replacement business…” It truly is. Hair is regarded as a commodity product. But let’s forget that for a second. See, we don’t sell hair. We sell SOLUTIONS. Solutions to hair loss.
I’m not even talking about multi-therapeutic approaches here, which I will bring up in a future article. I’m talking about our CORE BUSINESS, which is selling ‘hair grafts’, or ‘augmentations’, or whatever you want to call it (but please don’t call it “hair systems” or “toupees” or “hair pieces”, as convenient as it may be for you to do so). A while ago, Chris Webb, the publisher of the NHJ and a friend of mine, got into a conversation about why there is no “Calvin Klein or designer hair”, as is the case with Eva Gabor or Raquel Welch wigs or Sophia Loren sunglasses, etc. Well, the simple reason is that while one is proud to wear an Armani suit, no one wants to admit that they are “wearing Steven DiManni hair”. Or had their teeth capped. Or had Botox. Yet at the same time, we have to promote our business, and for most of us, our principal business is men’s hair replacement. Yes, we can fool around with women’s hair augmentations or multi-therapeutic remedies as a way to drive traffic and revenue. But at the end of the day, there are more men who lose their hair than women. And at the end of the day, few men really benefit from hair growing solutions.
The Men’s Business Has Turned The Corner. There has never been a better time for hair replacement studios to invest in promoting their men’s hair replacement business than now. Here’s why: • The perception of men replacing their hair has dramatically changed from what it was years ago. • The idea of men wanting to look better has also dramatically changed culturally, from what it once was. • Few studios are advertising non-surgical hair replacement, therefore, awareness of this option remains very low. • No one has communicated the dramatic changes in men’s non-surgical hair replacement; it’s therefore a whole new ball game, “right for the picking”. • The love affair with Rogaine and Propecia is stalling; people are now aware that these solutions are only part of the answer. • Five years ago, ten years ago, you were hearing a lot about “new science” that was on the verge of making hair loss disappear forever. You don’t hear about this anymore, because quite frankly, it doesn’t exist. It was all a bunch of “hoo hah”. People do not like hoo hah. • The acceptance of leading men wearing hair, such as Mr. Travolta and Mr. Cage, has given (the oretically) permission for non-actors to “wear hair”.
Only “Traditional” Advertising Can Build Demand. Online advertising, specifically websites, is like the Yellow Pages were years ago. Back then, many studios would ask, “well, should I pull back on my media budget and have a larger presence in the Yellow Pages?” It wasn’t a stupid question years ago, when awareness of non-surgical hair replacement was high. But websites, like the Yellow Pages, are an active medium. They depend upon people knowing what they want and then searching it out. However, when it comes to non-surgical hair replacement, we’re talking about a passive approach: the guy is sitting at home, it might never have occurred to him to seek out a solution for his hair loss, but then, out of the blue, comes a commercial message that encourages him to seek out more information. The man is being “prompted” to learn something when it comes to offline advertising. And it is at that moment that you make the connection. Sure, online advertising (websites) are terrific, since they replace the need for brochures and telemarketing (OMG, do you remember those horrible days?) But what they can’t do is drive demand, unless it is prompted.
So Now What Do You Do? Let’s assume that some of what I have said here makes sense to you. More important, perhaps you’re aware that many studios are now clamoring to promote their men’s business, from the Hair Clubs of the world to many successful local operations? You want to get in on the gravy train, right? Well, the one thing I would NOT recommend is listening to your local cable company who says they’ll shoot your commercial for free, even if you don’t have models, etc. (As we would say in NYC, “fugghedaboutit!”) I would contact the manufacturer with whom I do business and see what he/she has available. I would also think about going outside of television and running radio and/or outdoor. Again, see what your favorite manufacturer has available. How about getting a local celebrity or sports figure to tout your business? He doesn’t have to wear hair. He just needs credibility. And then find a good copywriter to drum up a decent radio script or TV script. Sure, this will cost a lot of money, but you get what you pay for, do you not?
Here’s The Conundrum. If the majority of your business is men’s hair replacement, and you’re not promoting men’s hair replacement, you’re not promoting your business. Clients move away, they decide not to wear hair anymore, or in some cases, sadly, they pass away. They also migrate to your competition at times. Many studios think they can make a living by “poaching” from other studios, offering “deals” to lure their competitors’ clients away. The problem here is that if all you have to offer is a lower price, and if that is all that counts to your new clients, they’re susceptible to switching back to their original service provider if he beats your price. And where does that get you? It’s a lose-lose situation, pure and simple.
Want To Win? Most studio owners that I have met are pretty smart guys and gals. The problem they suffer from is that they are so embroiled in putting out the fires that face every retail establishment on a daily basis, that they don’t have time to do much else. But my advice, or anyone else’s for that matter, is meaningless unless the studio owner has enough confidence in himself/herself, to invest the money that they need to promote their business. For all of the reasons that I have outlined here, and more, the men’s business is now ripe for the taking. But a concerted effort, both in terms of time and money, is needed to realize the opportunities that lie ahead. I believe that I have outlined the whys and the wherefores of these opportunities. In terms of taking on these challenges and exploiting these opportunities, well, he rest is up to you. It really is a case of “it’s marketing or it’s nothing”. And who wants nothing? Have a great summer, everyone. I’ll follow up on this in the fall edition of The National Hair Journal. Steven Di Manni is a Madison Avenue Creative Director who has won nearly every industry award— from Clios to Andys to Echoes, ad:techs, and Obies—while progressing to Senior VicePresident/ Creative Director, of some of New York’s preeminent agencies,. He has been honored for his TV, print and online work for Coca-Cola, The Economist, Canon, Hitachi, Lipton, Cover Girl, Barbara K!, and more. A 28-year veteran of the hair replacement industry, Steven is a long-time consultant to On Rite, is widely published in industry magazines, and is a speaker at industry functions. He currently operates his own creative consultancy group, and is a resident of New York City and Westhampton Beach. A confessed Manhattanholic, Steven is also obsessed with his wife, Margherita, collectible post-war automobiles, and the New York Giants.
6 The National Hair Journal Summer 2011
Hair replacement isn’t what it used to be. For starters, it’s not just about hair replacement; it’s about hair maintenance, hair additions, hair extensions, hair restoration as well as traditional hair replacement. And then there are all those new technologies, follicular unit extraction, nutritional supplements, topical and oral medications and, of course, low level laser light therapy. How does an ordinary salon or hair replacement center owner navithis complicated landscape? gate Increasingly, the answer lies with special marketing groups or educational centers set up by the major distributors. Hair Loss Control Clinic is unique in that it manufactures and distributes its own products, manages a retail chain of wholly owned and associate hair salons as well as offering a comprehensive marketing program. To learn more about the support Hair Loss Control Clinic offers its clients, The Journal talked to its owner and president, William Blatter. NHJ: Bill, Hair Loss Control Clinic offers a remarkably wide range of support services and products for professionals in the hair loss industry. How does your company know what the critical marketing needs are? BB: The Hair Loss Control Clinic has been in business for over 25 years, so we have plenty of valuable experience and expertise. I’m also a client. I got into the hair market because I had hair loss myself. I had a friend who was running a hair loss clinic in partnership with a doctor/trichologist and since I had a marketing and sales background and was good on the Internet, I was able to help him do his marketing and he gave me free products. It was a great deal for both of us ... and it helped me re-grow most of the hair I had lost over the previous five years! NHJ: Today, you are the sole owner. How did that come about? BB: It turned out that his partner was looking to retire. So, I bought out his half of the business and ended up owning the entire company! At that time, we were just one little clinic. From that one center we have now grown to about 140 clinics in 28 countries around the world. NHJ: What exactly is the Hair Loss Control Clinic? BB: Hair Loss Control Clinic is many things. That’s one of our challenges, because we mean different things to different people. First of all, we have been successfully running medically directed hair loss clinics since 1987. We work with hair loss professionals to give them services and products that will benefit their clients. We do everything from clinic lasers to devices that we manufacture ourselves. We offer handheld lasers, both high-end premium models and less expensive ones. We also have lasers with 75 or 100 diodes that patients can continue to use at home after their treatment in the clinic is done, so people can start to work with us with anything from $99 to $100,000. NHJ: Laser therapy is only one of the programs you offer. BB: That’s right. We really take a multi-therapeutic approach, which makes us very different! We offer enhanced versions of Minoxidil with saw palmetto and we use topicals that have as many as eight different DHT blockers. We also offer scalp therapy products that clean the sebum out to allow the topicals to work better, as well as things like paraben-free shampoos and shampoos that have DHT cleansers in them. NHJ: Who researches and advises you on these products? BB: We have four medical directors. These are hands-on doctors who work with our clients and affiliated clinics. Clients can talk with our doctors to get an expert opinion about what’s best for them. For example, if they want to know about 10 to 15 percent Minoxidil with 5 percent saw palmetto berry extract, they can talk to our doctor and get a prescription.
IN CONTROL An interview with William C. Blatter, President of Hair Loss Control Clinic NHJ: You also offer private label opportunities. BB: That’s right. Both in the USA and many other countries, you may not see Hair Loss Control Clinic or HLCC on the label, but they’re still our products. Our customers may even private-label the clinic lasers and the handheld lasers. We’re really a lot of things to different people.
18 years has been spent using lasers. That brings them a lot of credibility. Having our 4 Doctors even talk to their clients, takes it to another level. NHJ: Can anyone become a HLCC affiliate? BB: There are conditions. Firstly, they have to maintain the ethical standards we demand of them. Then there is a one to three-day training
William Blatter, President, Hair Loss Control Clinic
NHJ: How do you coordinate this HLCC Network? BB: We have nearly 500 distributors besides the affiliated clinics we help train, so our resources are substantial. This is important because our clients come from all backgrounds. For example, some doctors at Johns Hopkins have just started buying our ‘Complete’ DHT Inhibitor and Nutritional product, which is a combination DHT blocker and nutritional supplement. Then in Sweden, we worked with two entrepreneurs to start their laser business. Neither one had ever had any medical or significant hair loss background when they started, so they needed a lot of help. In their first year, they did over 200 clients at $6,000 a piece. They ended up franchising their business and sold out three years later for millions of dollars. NHJ: The National Hair Journal has always been surprised ... and concerned ... by the absence of any accreditation or professional standards in the industry. If a salon invests in continuing education or masters a new technology, there’s no way for them to demonstrate those skills. How do you feel about this? BB: That’s true. That’s one of the primary reasons why a lot of our clients come to us. We are different. A clinic that buys into our affiliate program can say they’re affiliated with HLCC with 140 Clinics, 25 years in business of which
class. We offer a substantial amount of professional resources and reference material too, like the 250 page affiliate training manual that covers everything from how to take an incoming telephone call to how to do a consultation, or a checkup with the special scope that comes with the laser. We show our partners how to see new hairs growing and we train them in the different treatment protocols for men and women. We have an RN on staff that’s been here for 12 years and she’s always part of the training for our affiliates, in addition to the doctors I mentioned. NHJ: Is your training related only to the products and therapies you promote? BB: No, we want our training to be extremely relevant to every client and every serious hair loss solution. For example, we’ve tried to create some common terminology to describe laser therapy. Our doctors have come up with the concept of “laser diode minutes.” If you combine the number of laser diodes with the number of minutes a client receives treatment, then multiply it by the number of times they visit per week, you will get a good idea of the kind of results you can expect. Because we run our own hair loss clinics, we can test formulae like this to see if they work and in this case it is an accurate predictor. NHJ: What about the products that fail? BB: 18 years ago, everybody used the Boston
Laser. It was marginally successful and most clients got some kind of benefit. We owned it, yet didn’t recommend it to most patients. We only suggested it to a few people who wanted to do everything they could do, because we didn’t feel it was cost effective for most people. So we started working with other companies, having them manufacture lasers to our specifications. We went from 50 laser diodes to 90, and ultimately to 120 to 170 and we saw significantly better results. We tested, studied and saw that people who came in for 30 minute treatments twice a week, were doing better than those who came in for 20 minutes twice each week. People that were sitting under a 90diode laser for 30 minutes a week were not doing as well as people sitting under a 135 or 170-diode unit. So, the concept of laser diode minutes is something people can use to see what benefit they’re getting and to better understand that a handheld laser with 5 diodes is not going to give them the same results as one with 25 diodes. NHJ: When we began chatting, you said that Hair Loss Control Clinic has multiple support services but you quickly zeroed in on light therapy. Why did low-level laser light therapy become so important to you ... and should it be important to other people in the industry? BB: It became extremely important to us because it worked. We were a clinic that started off without light therapy, yet after we brought in our first laser, we saw that every client that went under it saw some kind of benefit. As the diodes increased, the benefits have increased as well. As for other doctors, spas and salons, I believe laser therapy should be important for them too, if they’re really looking for the best results for their clients. NHJ: The laser marketplace can be a minefield for the uninitiated. Their first question is, “Does it work?” Then, “How do I know which one is right for me?” The final question, of course, is, “How do I know if I’m doing the right thing?” What support can Hair Loss Control Clinic give people in this quandary? BB: The big thing is providing the proper professional training with quality products, services and support systems. Before investing in a laser, people need to know precisely what are they getting. They need to ask themselves, “Does the company that’s going to be working with me have a vested interest in my success?” Too many people are sold a laser and given some brochures and maybe a CD, while in fact, the company has no further interest in working with them because support doesn’t make money. But we are different because we offer a very wide range of inter-related services, equipment and products. When we provide a laser, whether it’s a handheld, home-clinic or a professional laser, we back it up with other support products. Also, don’t forget differentiation and profit margin. If you are selling the same laser as everyone else as well as bing sold on eBay, why should any clients come to you? Also, after somebody re-grows their hair by using those products, they want to protect it. Those clients are going to stay with the program and build a long-term residual for that salon. So we do our best to take very good care of our clients. That’s why we still have clients from the 1980’s. NHJ: How do you stay in touch with your customers? BB: We do things like newsletters, we’re active on Facebook and Twitter and we have a blog. As a matter of fact, we’re preparing one right now, where we talk about Finasteride and a new study that just came out. Then, there are the regular personalized telephone calls, as well as the ability to get a professional opinion from our nurses and doctors. NHJ: Let’s talk about the marketing support you provide. BB: Things change quickly. Products change. Finasteride is a good example. So our newsletter
7 The National Hair Journal Summer 2011 and other communication tools play a pivotal role. But Hair Loss Control Clinic provides a tremendous amount of other marketing support. We have customizable marketing pieces and a phenomenal design capability that’s offered at a very reduced price. We’ll even run Google AdWords campaigns for our clients and
laser that has LEDs and lasers, but we tout the number of laser diodes, not the LEDs, because the LEDs do not have research data to back up any medical claims. NHJ: I could go to my address book and probably find ten people who would tell you they are laser consultants. Why should salon
we won’t charge them a penny. We’ve been doing this for many years and we have somebody dedicated to doing nothing but Google AdWords. We’ve invested almost $500,000 in Google AdWords, so we’ve learned a lot about the most effective Internet marketing over the years. Giving our customers that kind of extra special marketing support is in our best interest too. If we produce a better marketing
owners come to Hair Loss Control Clinic? BB: We’ve been doing this successfully for 25 years of which 18 years have been with lasers, so we really do have a lot of experience and expertise. Secondly, we offer them choices. Even though we produce our own lasers, we offer other brands as well. Then, we have four medical directors, not some fancy board of directors. Boards are nice, but we have
piece our salons can sell more treatment programs. Every time they make a $3,000 sale, we are also selling a few hundred dollars worth of product. So our client’s success and my success are keyed in. NHJ: What are the most common mistakes laser owners make and how can they avoid them? BB: Buying a laser and thinking it’s a business. A laser is not a business. It’s a special tool and it needs to be marketed properly. Thinking you can just add it to your services and people will then come is a big misconception. The other mistake is not taking a multitherapeutic approach. You really must offer other support products. They all work together and deliver a superior result. The more hair they grow, the more money you will make. NHJ: How does a salon owner know what machine is right for her? BB: They need to do research. Talk to a lot of people. Find out who’s using it. Are they getting results? There are plenty of companies now producing lasers, but do they have successful clients? My best advice is to see if are there other people who have been successful in the past, then copy their model and try to do it even better. NHJ: These are big dollar decisions. Prices range from $75,000 for an MEP-90 Medical Laser, to $15,000 for a typical professional floor-standing device, with all kinds of options in between. BB: Again, it’s a challenge. You need to find someone you can trust. One of the warning signs is if they tell you their laser is “FDAapproved”? Lasers are “cleared,” they’re not “approved,” number one. Next, there are only two products – the MEP-90 and the HairMax LaserCombs — that have that clearance. So, if they’re saying their laser is FDA-approved and it’s not one of those two, they’re not telling you the truth. Another thing is if they talk about the benefits of LEDs, ask them for the studies on the LEDs. We have a handheld
people that actually write prescriptions and are part of the company. Finally, we’ve got a lot of great resources through our affiliated clinics in 28 countries. We get constant feedback from these contacts. And when they are not calling me, I am visiting them. I’ve trained doctors in England, Kuwait, Egypt and Turkey. We have top-level contacts in all areas, from the most famous hair transplant doctor in Taiwan to the Hong Kong hairstylist who styles hair for Meg Whitman from eBay and gets $2,000 a haircut. So, whether it’s a small company or a big one, we’ve got the experience to match their needs! NHJ: What about professional affiliations? BB: We’re members of the Personal Care Council, The National Hair Society, the American Hair Loss Council, the World Association of Laser Therapy, Better Business Bureau and the Independent Cosmetic Manufacturer & Distributors Association. By working with different groups, you get the information you need to support clients in many states and countries around the world. NHJ: What is Bill Blatter’s personal mission statement? BB: To make sure that the highest level of ethics, quality products and services are delivered both to the salons, spas and clinics and to their respective clients. We want to underpromise and over-deliver. It’s a challenge, because the fake pictures look better than the real ones and the lies sound better than the truth. The reason we’ve grown is because we try to do the right thing and that word-ofmouth has spread.
The Hair Loss Control Clinic is a globally respected industry leader, providing effective products and services for salons, spas, medical spas and hair replacement centers. For more information on Hair Loss Control Clinic, call 877-452-2123, 518-220-1500 or visit www.HLCCOnline.com.
8 The National Hair Journal Summer 2011
LASER UPDATE Low level laser light therapy (LLLT) is an expanding field. The National Hair Journal endorses the professional application of photo-therapy and has hosted laser workshops and interviewed key people behind this important technology. We created this column to keep readers who are considering LLLT abreast of new developments.
FDA Clears 3 New HairMax Devices Boca Raton, FL. 04/11 - Lexington International, LLC has successfully completed 2 clinical studies of the HairMax LaserComb proving the efficacy and safety of 3 new devices for the treatment of androgenetic alopecia (hereditary hair loss). The analysis showed that 95.4% of participants using the HairMax LaserComb experienced hair growth. Furthermore, the average increases in hair count for participants in the HairMax LaserComb group was 20.4 hairs per centimeter2, which is considered medically and scientifically significant. None of the participants in the studies experienced any serious side effects. Based in part on submission of clinical results, the FDA Granted Class II Clearance 510(k) K103368 of these medical devices for sale in the USA for the ‘Treatment of Hair Loss and Promotion of Hair Growth’ in males.
Looking For A Laser? If you are shopping around for a Low Level Laser Therapy device for your salon, spa or hair loss clinic; here are a few of the most
important considerations. In the next issue, we will continue to list additional things to know about LLLT devices. Find A Reputable Manufacturer: Do your homework when shopping for laser manufacturers and distributors. Look for a company that has been selling hair loss lasers for a long time and has a proven track record helping many businesses earn money with laser therapy. Many laser companies are happy to sell you a laser; look for companies that have a vested interest in helping you succeed and offer long-term support. Look For Business Training: Most laser companies include basic laser training, but a laser is not a business. It is important to find a company who will work with you to help you successfully run the business. Anyone can provide a few brochures, but be sure to find a company that has been successfully helping others build their businesses from a training, sales and marketing standpoint. The company should provide ongoing warranties, marketing, sales, PR and continuing support to ensure your long-term success. Laser Diodes: Opinion varies somewhat throughout the industry, yet it is generally thought that an effective clinic laser should have at least 100 laser diodes and most successful laser hair loss doctors use those with 107 to 170 diodes. The understanding is that the higher the number of 650nm 4.5 – 5mw diodes, the more “laser diode minutes” your client will receive and therefore, the better the results will be. The most effective hair regrowth results come from larger amounts of laser diode minutes. To determine laser diode minutes, multiply the number of laser diodes by the number of minutes of each treatment, then by the number of treatments per week. (160 laser diodes x 30 minutes x 2 times per week = 9,600 LDM.) The same is true for home use laser devices such as laser combs and brushes.
Laser vs. LED: Ensure your laser device has real laser diodes as opposed to LED or “Light Emitting Diodes.” LEDs have been used for hair loss treatments, yet FDA clearances and almost all clinical studies have used 650 nm lasers, not LED. While there may be nothing wrong with using LED devices, all the clinical evidence is strongly in favor of laser diodes to stimulate hair regrowth. FDA Clearance: Does your laser need to be FDA cleared to be effective? Currently, the FDA has cleared two LLLT devices for hair regrowth: the MEP-90 Hair Growth Stimulation System and the hand-held HairMax LaserComb. There are other comparable models on the market without FDA clearance that use similar technology and deliver impressive results. The big difference is what you can tell your clients about the results. With FDA-cleared lasers, you will have more freedom in what you can advertise, but you may pay a price premium. Only you can decide what’s right for you.
FDA Import Alert The FDA website published an import alert on March 18, 2011 for “Surveillance of Imported Low Level Laser Therapy (LLLT) Devices.” The report states: There is reason to believe that various LLLT devices (also known as laser biostimulation devices, “cold” lasers or “soft” lasers) intended for foreign markets, are being imported into this country. These products may be noncompliant with the performance standard for laser products (21 CFR 1040.10 and 1040.11), not certified (21 CFR 1010.2), and not reported to this agency. Since low level laser therapy is an unproven medical treatment, these devices are also investigational medical devices which may only be distributed to investigators for the purpose of conducting studies of this modality of treatment. These inves-
tigators must have valid Institutional Review Board (IRB) oversight of their studies. Distribution of these devices to any other individuals would constitute commercialization of the devices. It is believed the LLLT devices are often illegally distributed to such individuals, and that they are often not labeled in accordance with 21 CFR 812.5. The situation is complicated by the fact that there are some investigators doing serious studies of this type of treatment. Also, some units are intended for veterinary use, in which case no Investigational Device Exemption or IRB approval is required. If promotional literature accompanies the devices, this may indicate the intended uses of the devices, and may aid in determining whether the products are for human use, and whether they are being commercialized.
Home Therapy Home lasers and hand-held laser brushes packaged with quality treatment products provide an excellent solution for clients who cannot afford, or do not have time for clinic visits. Make sure you can achieve good profit margins and aren’t being undercut by the manufacturer, or distributors, selling the lasers online below the list price.
FACTOID The word “laser” is an acronym for Light Amplification by the Stimulated Emission of Radiation. The theory was first described in 1916 by Albert Einstein who paved the way for the development of the cosmetic and therapeutic laser that we use today. (Hair Loss Control Clinic).
9 The National Hair Journal Summer 2011
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16th Annual CyberWorld Awards Charleston, SC. 04/11 - This years meeting was highlighted by many guest speakers and educators who shared their knowledge and insight by providing growth and success opportunities for the Cyberhair network. This coupled with the new products and marketing materials introduced for 2011 created an exciting meeting that was filled with business solutions for everyone. Some of the new products included: • Micro Point Solution’s 2 hair and 6 hair Links • New colors added in the 10” Simplicity panels by Micro Point Solutions • New 14” Simplicity panels by Micro Point Solutions • New option on the Cyberhair Custom Designs; Vitalhair is now Bethany Straub Recieves $3million Award available as an option on the front hairline or the entire perimeter in ?” or ?” increments. Now available in stock Private Issue by Cyberhair Enhancer in 1 1/4” curl • New before and after images for Cyberhair, Private Issue and Micro Point Solutions – check these all out at www.facebook.com/cyberhair! Dave Lemke Recieves $3million Award
Great education too - The workshop day provided great education from peers, IHI staff and guest educators. A special word of thanks to Patricia Julkowski and Dave Lemke.
BillSpitale Recieves SpecialAchievment Award
Sharon Mason Award
Dee Mitchell Recieves Special Achievment Award
Awards - The Annual Cyberhair Awards Dinner honored studio owners who have either made outstanding contributions to the Cyberhair Programs or achieved sales milestones. Congratulations to Cyberhair Special Achievement Award winners Bill Spitale and Dee Mitchell, the latest inductee into the Million $ Club, Sharon Mason and our newest sales milestone the 3 Million $ Club winners Bethany Straub and Dave Lemke. In his closing remarks, IHI vicepresident, Peter Gensler observed, “It is a great time to be an exclusive studio in the Cyberhair network of programs. Cyberhair is providing many opportunities in today’s market. I am flattered by those that are claiming to have copied Cyberhair or reference Cyberhair in their promotions. Cyberhair is
the original and Cyberhair is the best. Cyberhair is the pillar supporting Cyberhair Customs, Micro Point Solutions and Private Issue. No matter how superior or how great Cyberhair is, its success requires an even greater network of studios. Thank you for being a part of this network.” Check out CyberWorld pictures on Facebook at www.facebook.com/cyberhair or follow CyberHair on Twitter at www.twitter.com/inthair.
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The National Hair Journal PROMOTING
Medical Section
COOPERATION BETWEEN THE ARTISTRY OF HAIR REPLACEMENT AND THE SCIENCE OF HAIR RESTORATION
Defensive Medicine and Disposable Helmets Jeff Segal, MD, JD, FACS
You don’t have to be a medical doctor to be exposed to lawsuits. Most every professional who treats patients and clients has created a special Release Form or has implemented special procedures to protect themselves and their business from disgruntled or manipulative clients. The following article was written by Medical Justice, an organization created to defend physicians’ reputations, but it is relevant to salon owners, laser operators and anyone else who works with clients and patients to improve their health, wellbeing and appearance. A lot has been said and written about defensive medicine. Some pundits have stated, “If I’m a patient, I want you to practice defensive medicine.” This is where the misunderstanding begins. There is universal agreement that doctors should do what is reasonable to keep patients safe. Period. Doctors agree. As do patients and attorneys. But, defensive medicine is different. Defensive medicine has a different pur-
pose. It includes tests, referrals, and procedures focused primarily on keeping doctors out of the courtroom.
port, is to provide safe harbor immunity for doctors who follow doctor-developed guidelines.
Some will argue, “Wait a minute. Shouldn’t a doctor do everything possible to prevent a problem?” Here’s where an analogy helps.
We would add to that. Allow qualified immunity for doctors who consciously deviate from such guidelines when it makes good clinical sense for the patient. Just document why the deviation occurred.
Tens of thousands die in auto accidents every year. This is a national tragedy. The easy solution is to ban driving and go back to horse and buggy days. Of course that would be ridiculous. Our GDP would revert to that of a Fourth World country. How about mandating that every driver wear a helmet and flameproof clothing? It works for NASCAR and Indy drivers. They can ram a car into a wall at 180 MPH and often walk away with few or no serious injuries. Now, mandate that the helmet and flameproof clothing must be replaced weekly and you have to pay for it. That’s analogous to defensive medicine. Most of the time wearing the helmet and flameproof clothing will do nothing; just add cost. On rare occasion, it will indeed keep you safe. And, on occasion, the extra equipment could cause harm (e.g.: perhaps the helmet will keep you from hearing an oncoming ambulance). Is it worth adding an additional $5,000 per year, for example, to make driving safer? How about $10,000 per year? And what if some of the new tools create new harms? Defensive medicine imposes a friction cost on our healthcare system. The simple solution, which has bipartisan sup-
This would give physicians the latitude to do the right thing for patients 100% of the time, and not be penalized for doing so. There would be no such thing as cookbook medicine. If we could get these ideas over the finish line (couldn’t resist one more racecar analogy) we could greatly improve healthcare for everyone. Each year many groundless medical malpractice suits are initiated against health care providers. Physicians are pressured to settle frivolous medical malpractice lawsuits in order to minimize their financial risk. Damaging physician’s reputations. Creating undue stress. And greatly increasing medical malpractice insurance premiums. The legal system leaves physicians vulnerable to frivolous medical malpractice lawsuits filed by unethical plaintiffs, attorneys, and “expert” witnesses. Medical Justice® creates a practice infrastructure to prevent, deter, and respond to frivolous medical malpractice suits. A membership-based organization, Medical Justice® is relentlessly committed to protecting physicians’ reputations and practices.
NHJ
Hairlabs International Awarded Laser Patent Nashville: Hairlabs International, manufacturer of the iconic, laser hair therapy brand; AlphaLase announced that it has become the first laser manufacturer to be awarded a “Design Patent” on a portable, hands-free therapeutic light device. Company president, James Britt explained: “We filed our original Provisional Patent on our portable Laser Crown in February of 2007, months, and in some cases years, before our competition. Although we are not the first company to bring a portable, hands-free device to market, we are the first to be ‘allowed’ a Design Patent by the US Patent office. Other laser manufacturers are still navigating the process, waiting for their submissions to be examined and approved.” One of the distinguishing features of our laser hair therapy device is that our therapeutic laser is a light-weight, fullcranial “bonnet,” which irradiates the entire scalp. We also borrowed liberally from our established AlphaLase technology making the new Alphalase ptld, what I consider to be, a triumph of form and function. NHJ
13 The National Hair Journal Summer 2011
Why Do We Kill Ourselves? (Name withheld by request) I choose to keep myself anonymous for the purposes of this article. Most of you know who I am. I’ve been in the men’s hair replacement business for a long time, and while most of my efforts have been in the arena of non-surgical hair replacement, I have also been involved with, and have greatly profited from, the surgical side of the business. I was alerted to a particularly pernicious offering from “hairlossnetwork.com”, a few weeks ago. I could NOT believe what I saw. And I am sure that if you will take a few moments to visit their website and view their animated videos (go to the lower right on the home page of their website) you will be equally disturbed. As far as I am concerned, non-surgical and surgical hair replacement must co-exist. What’s right for one person might be wrong for another. The mutual goal is to restore hair that has been lost. Both non-surgical and surgical methods have improved greatly over the years in their respective quests to restore lost hair. The people at “hairtransplantnetwork.com” obviously have a far different view. In a three-part (I assume a fourth is coming) animated series, they attempt to reveal every negative about the men’s non-surgical business going back to the 1920s. Unfortunately, in so doing, they are trashing everything about the men’s surgical business at the same time. The end result is that we all will suffer, whether you offer non-surgical hair replacement, transplants and/or both. The first of the episodes starts with a character “Balding Bob”, I think his name is. He is joined in this video by the one remaining hair follicle on his head that becomes his “conscience”. The story line is that Balding Bob, or whomever, “meets” a woman online. His ad contains an
older photo of him when he once had hair. In the first installment of this video series, we see him meeting this very attractive woman at a restaurant. When he meets her, he is wearing a baseball cap. She asks him to remove his cap, and when she discovers he is bald, she leaves him. The hair follicle is horrified, as in, “how could you do this to me?” In the next episode, we see Balding Bob meeting with Professor Toop Goop or some such name. He is an evil-looking character wearing what appears to be a “dead cat” on top of his head. The “professor” or whatever he is, touts the “Bio Matrix 2000 So Hair System: and installs it with the maniacal help of some out-of-space machinery spreading TOOP GOOP over balding bob’s scalp. Both Bob, and the single hair that resides on his scalp, are horrified. But Bob ignores the hair follicle’s advice to run of the studio, ignor-
ing the hair follicle “screaming” that “This is a toupee, do not listen to this guy, he is going to put a toupee on your head.” Something like that. In the third episode, Balding Bob, now with a full head of hair, meets a “hottie” at some disco out of the 1970’s. She runs her fingers through his hair, gets her hands full of TOOP GOOP, and to her horror, pulls off his hair! She then fights with his hair to get it off her hands. Other people look on, horrified. Bob stands there, looking dejected and confused. My guess is that in the final installment (“stay tuned”, they tell us), Balding Bob will find happiness with a hair transplant. Why does this bother me? Why should it bother you? It would be very easy to write a similar story for someone who visits a hair transplant center or
surgeon, would it not? Maybe someone being carved up like a Christmas turkey, only to have his hair transplants “not take”, and to be denuded of hair from his donor area? Think this never happens? Talk to some of the clients that I have referred to my transplant colleagues. They’ll tell you. So will any reputable transplant surgeon. This is all nothing more than “silly-ness”? As for those who think that only men who have had non-surgical hair restoration are made fun of, I would point out that our country’s vice-president, Joseph Biden, is frequently made fun of due to the fact that he had a hair transplant. (Personally, I think he looks pretty darned good.) On the other hand, Sir Elton John, who claims to have had a hair transplant but in reality, has had what most consider to be non-surgical hair replacement, is rarely singled out (cont. on pg.14)
14 The National Hair Journal Summer 2011
Introducing SH-RD A New Kind of Hair Care from Asia
Extending the Life of Hair Extensions Tips To Maintain Healthy Looking Hair While Increasing Salon Revenue By Laura Grageda Chances are that many of your clients are thinking about trying a new fashion or beauty trend this summer. Many of them will want to experiment with adding more length, volume, or simply try a new hair color. The easiest and safest way is by applying professional quality hair extensions. They provide an instant makeover opportunity right now when they want it most. Hair extensions are great for all summer activities. Clients can swim, run, shampoo and style their hair as they normally would. If the extensions are properly applied, they can last for up to six months with regular at-home and salon maintenance. Here are some tips to help your clients maintain their extensions... and increase your hair extension business.
them the opportunity to stock up on their hair care products. Summer is the perfect time to introduce new clients to hair extensions. One of the biggest challenges for women with fine hair is how to fight the heat and humidity, which leaves their hair looking limp. A great way to combat this is a single row of hair extensions. First time clients may hesitate to commit to a full head of
and bridal packages. Since summer is also wedding season, you should make hair extension services part of your bridal service packages. Not only will you help them create their dream look, you may have them coming back for more after the honeymoon. Consider also activating your hair extension business by participating in charitable fundraisers. This is a nice way to give something back to the com-
The SH-RD line consists of a daily shampoo and conditioner and its most innovative product, the Protein Cream. The protein cream is a leave in treatment for all hair care types that strengthens and rebuilds the hair after the shower and before blow drying or styling. Its Rosemary and D-Panthenol ingredients and special amino acids in the Silk Protein Complex repair split ends and leave the hair moisturized and revitalized. SH-RD products also block UV NHJ rays and shield against chlorine damage.
Keeping Swimmers’ Strands Sexy Although avid swimmers are familiar with the tightening and toning advantages of their sport, they’re equally acquainted with the less-beautiful disadvantages: dry, brittle, discolored hair and irritated, flaky scalp. Besides, green hair is so-not sexy. The good news for every insatiable swimmer is Malibu C Swimmers Weekly Solution. Malibu C works instantly to combat the two saboteurs of beautiful hair for swimmers – chlorine and trace residual lime. Formulated using nature’s own freshly activated Vitamin C; Malibu C draws these malicious minerals to the surface where they are gently washed away. At the same time, nourishing botanicals sooth, hydrate and restore the hair and scalp that have been damaged by pool water.
“It is important to educate your clients on ways to protect the life and vibrancy of their extensions before they kick off the summer,” says Kathy Williams, SO.CAP* Educator and Artistic Director. “The color of hair extensions can fade just like most hair colors. A simple and stylish way of protecting the hair is simply wearing a hat to protect against UV rays.” Regular maintenance also includes proper brushing. Being outdoors means more exposure to wind, which causes tangling. By properly brushing from scalp to ends, you ensure less breakage. If clients plan on swimming, they need to rinse hair very well after exposing it to chlorine from swimming pools or salt from beaches. Williams also suggests spraying the hair with a repair formula designed to add UV protection and other essential oils. And consider wearing a swim cap.
Want proof that it works? Malibu has been named the Official HairCare of USA Water Polo Team! Malibu Wellness - With two decades of commitment to health-based beauty, Malibu Wellness is a leader in the natural salon treatment category. For more information, visit MalibuC.com or call 800-622-7332.
Back home, hair should be washed in a downward motion starting at the roots and moving towards the ends. When shampooing, clients should be taught to massage lightly and rinse thoroughly to avoid product buildup. A good moisturizing conditioner is essential to keep tresses shiny and soft. Avoid alcohol-based conditioners, as they tend to make the hair dry. When drying hair, clients should avoid rubbing hair extensions vigorously as this may lead to breakage. When possible, let wet hair extensions air dry. Professional shampoos and conditioners will extend the life of hair extensions. Teach clients that the essential oils that are produced in your scalp don’t easily reach their extensions, so they have to add extra protection. “There are regimens specifically designed for hair extensions,” notes Williams. “My company has made challenging home maintenance a thing of the past, with its new ‘4U Hair Extension Product Systems. These products, specially formulated for curly, straight and normal hair simplify the maintenance of different hair textures.” Consider also offering them some sort of special maintenance package. Similar to a tanning package, it should consist of a 2 to 3 month program that includes a certain number of visits for touching up their hair extensions as well as giving
Shaan Honq is famous for its professional hair care and beauty products. The Taiwan-based company was founded in 1985 by a group of pharmacists committed to developing superior personal care products. Already well known across Asia, the company is now bringing its expertise to North America. Their latest collection is called SH-RD, which is shorthand for the company name, Shaan Honq, and key ingredients, Rosemary, DPanthenol and Hydrolyzed wheat protein.
Why Do We Kill Ourselves? (cont. from pg.13) for his choice of hair restoration alternatives. Yet such is not the case for such accomplished Hollywood actors such as Nicholas Cage and John Travolta. So what gives? I really don’t know. That’s why I am writing in the NHJ, hopefully trying to get the opinions of hair replacement professionals on this subject.
hair extensions, but adding just one row or even just a few strands can add volume to limp hair and beat those summer-time blues. Another business opportunity is offering young adults hair extension services in the summer. While student athletes may like to see their school colors in their hair, some schools do not allow them to play around with fantasy hair colors in their own hair. But summer is the perfect time for them to have fun experiencing add-in crazy colored strands! Once they have played with hair extensions, they may never look back. If they have never experienced extensions, try to work them into special event
munity, while promoting your salon as well as your hair extension services. “Breast cancer awareness month, which takes place in October, is a very popular cause that many salons get involved with.” says Williams. “Pink Hair For Hope,” a fundraising campaign created by SO.CAP, allows clients to donate $10 to help fund breast cancer research. In return for their contribution, clients receive a pink hair extension to show their support of breast cancer awareness in a unique and stylish way. This introduces new clients to hair extensions who may never have thought of doing so on their own, Here’s wishing you a relaxing, beautiful... and NHJ extended summer!
It doesn’t matter who you are; that is why I have asked for anonymity from Chris Webb. What matters is what you think. To sum up, here is what I think: those of us who engage in the practice of hair restoration, whether it’s surgical or non-surgical, all live in the same “house”. Setting fire to one “room” of this house, call it the non-surgical room in the case of this horrific video from hairtransplantnetwork.com, is no guarantee that it won’t burn down the whole house. In my view, quite the opposite will happen. The “fire” will spread, and balding men will say, or think, “they’re right. All hair restoration options are terrible. All people engaged in this business, even if they have a medical degree, are not to be trusted.” NHJ What say you? I’d love to know.
15 The National Hair Journal Summer 2011
INSIGHT FROM TRANSITIONS
Out of the Closet Hair Replacement Video Wins Advertising Award New York, 03/11 - The hair replacement industry, long known for its “back of the book” reputation, moved to the forefront at the John Caples International Awards, held in New York City at Le Capitale Ballroom on March 24th, 2011.
Virg Christoffels Owner - Christoffel’s and Company Souix Falls, South Dakota
The John Caples International Awards recognizes creative excellence in solving direct marketing problems through various media, including traditional mail, TV, print, and new media, such as online videos, viral efforts, etc.
Vice President, Transitions International Group As you probably know by now, Transitions has more than 65 Members, all independent hair loss specialists, and we think of ourselves primarily as a marketing group. But in reality we are about education, learning and sharing within the Group. Because of the openness within the Group, the insight we develop about our Profession is profound. The National Hair Journal has asked us to share some of these insights with its readers. Here are just a few of the topics and concerns with which Transitions Members are dealing.
Public Perception Of Hair Replacement One of the ongoing challenges that the Transitions Group continues to work on is changing the public perception of hair replacement, surgical hair restoration, and hair loss treatment. Each of these areas continues to work on eliminating the negative perception the public has about hair restoration. It started when nonsurgical hair looked like a rug, surgical techniques were primitive and treatment for thinning hair was nothing more than a false claim and snake oil. In spite of our efforts through social networking, TV advertising, and the internet, much of the public still has a negative mental image of hair loss correction and if we are honest some of that negative impression is because of us as professionals. Think about what the public is led to believe when they see some of the before and after photos of someone using a treatment product or procedure. The message is, “this product was used for 30 days and look at the change!” The potential client buys the product, uses it and realizes that in 30 days nothing has changed. And then you have the potential client who sees a beautiful photo of someone who had a nonsurgical process done and it looks so natural, and then they go through the process only to experience the look of a rug or a bad wig. And finally, the man or woman who does a surgical procedure because of the great photos they saw during their time of consideration only to end up with what looks like a comb over or an unnatural hairline. Fellow professionals, we are all responsible to some degree for letting the public down! We often embellish our advertising by promising something we can’t deliver, and in some cases we haven’t kept up with changing and advancing technology. It becomes too easy to let greed get in the way of communication and understanding the potential client’s expectations. The public would have a different perception if we as professionals worked together to learn the latest technology. We need to share and present a true message with realistic expectations. We have come a long way but there are still people who present themselves as professionals by marketing and promoting an image of high standards but will deliver and say whatever they need to in order to make a sale. Transitions International Group has been working hard to put forth a platform for education and to challenge its membership to continue to raise the bar. I believe it takes a unified effort on the part of each one of us to truly be called professional and then to finally change the public perceptions of hair replacement. NHJ
Nominated for one of these awards was a commercial/web video entitled “Silent Movie”, produced for the On Rite Company by Steven DiManni, a New York creative consultant. “Silent Movie”, as its name implies, mimics movies from the silent era, complete with “scratchy”, off-speed black and white film, subtitles in place of dialogue, and an old-time piano sound track. Only the clothes and hairstyles give a clue that the commercial takes place in 2011, rather than 1911. The story line is also simplistic, in keeping with the theme. In a chance meeting with an old friend, a man meets his very attractive female cousin. When he confesses to his friend that he is attracted to her, the friend remarks to his fully-haired companion, “yeah, but she likes bald men.” After securing a date with the lovely young lady, we see her suitor shaving his head in order to appeal to her. When he shows up at her door, bearing a bouquet, she asks what happened to his beautiful head of hair. When he counters with that he heard she liked “bald men”, she retorts: “No, I like bold men”, and shuts the door in his face. At the end of the commercial, we see the man, six months later and again with a full head of hair, with another attractive young woman and this subtitle….”You can’t please everyone, so you have to please yourself.” Said On Rite president, Andy Wright, “I’m happy for the recognition we received for this commercial, or video, whatever, but that’s not why we produced it. I’ve always said that a rising tide lifts all boats. If this commercial in some small way can change the public’s perception about non-surgical hair replacement, or if it can inspire others in the industry to produce commercials that are different and more in tune with today’s consumer, well, then it was worth the time and effort and money.” Andy concluded by saying, “…what we do individually ultimately reflects on the entire industry. Naturally, my first concern is On Rite. But I realize that we all have a responsibility to do the right thing and lift the image of non-surgical hair replacement. It benefits all of us, and who can argue with that. NHJ
16 The National Hair Journal Summer 2011
Transitions Marketing Meeting 2011 Transitions members gathered at the luxurious Portofino Hotel & Yacht Club in Redondo Beach California for their semiannual sales marketing and media meeting. The Portofino is one of the few oceanfront hotels in the Los Angeles area. Perched on
the new marketing tool Groupon. After lunch, The National Hair Society, together with Avco Worldwide outlined a new profit opportunity and suggested that hair replacement owners should expand their client services to include skin rejuvena-
Tina Rome and Lillian Tosi (Tosi's), JoJo Barone (JoJo Concepts) and Gerry Campagnolo (Continental Hair)
“I’ve been going to Transition Meetings for more than 18 years and they have always proven to be the most informative meetings to attend in our industry”… Susan Jernigan Owner – Jernigan’s Hair Clinic Raleigh, North Carolina
Transitions Marketing Meeting, Redondo Beach,CA Hair, it's all about hair.
a private peninsula on King Harbor close to the Redondo pier, guests could view the sea from their elegant rooms and even from the conference room!
tion. Avco demonstrated the latest microcurrent device that delivers a significant and visible benefit in under one hour. Transitions members were told
and reflect on a very productive day. But there were still surprises in store. On the way back to the hotel, passengers in the coach noticed that all of a sudden there were no longer any streetlamps or lights in the shop windows. In fact, the entire neighborhood surrounding the hotel was in total darkness. It turned out that a car had struck a transformer and cut off electricity for a 5 mile radius. So Transitions members enjoyed the romantic experience of going to bed by candlelight... except for a few hardy souls who remained in the bar area and shared anecdotes until the lights came back on at about 2 AM. Monday was a day of serious marketing with presentations from Kelly Flint, regional director of Constant Contact, an online marketing group. Kelly explained how e-mail can be a powerful business tool and how to create newsletters and e-mail blasts. Two breakout sessions gave everyone the opportunity to explore online marketing in more detail with Rachael Perlmutter and Kelly Flint.
Board of Directors presenting an award of service to Dave Barker for his work on behalf of Transitions (L to R - Scott McCarty, Dave Barker, Ed Gawerecki, Alicia Stevens, Virg Christoffels and Dennis Murphy)
Two days of business meetings started with the board meeting on May 14 attended by Directors, Alicia Stevens (president), Dave Barker, Virg Christoffels, Ed Gawerecki, Scott McCarty, Dennis Murphy, and
they were the first to be given the opportunity to participate in this program which adds skin rejuvenation to hair replacement to produce a total antiaging solution for clients.
“As always, I came away with much more knowledge than I went with! The friendships, education and networking we have with our Transitions Group are priceless!” Sheryl McCaleb Owner – Hair Prosthesis Institute Nashville, Tennessee
After lunch, John Vincent, laser consultant and “laser treatment only” studio owner, shared his professional experience and made recommendations about the proper way to present laser light therapy to the public. He also announced the introduction of a new handheld device, revealed here for the first time. The afternoon wrapped up with a review of the new Transitions wet goods product line and support marketing materials, and a look at some of the new hair products being introduced by Hair Art. The Transitions International Group meets again in NHJ six months time in Ontario, Canada.
“A smorgasbord of useful information!” Dennis Murphy Owner – HairQuarters Surfside Beach, South Carolina
Chris Webb presenting the Avco skin rejuvination
Jackie and Doris Yu presenting a large toy donation to Childrens Hospital of Los Angeles, on behalf of themselves and the Transitions Group
administrators: Greg Taylor and Jeanine Stevenson. Open meetings on Saturday afternoon were followed by a welcome social and cocktail party at the beachfront home of Jackie and Doris Yu. The following morning, Jackie and Doris had the opportunity to tell everyone about Children's Hospital Los Angeles, a charity they support. Morning sessions continued with a review of successful marketing programs, with a focus on lead management and taking advantage of
Avco was followed by a video presentation, showcasing the top five winning videos submitted by Transitions members. At the end of the afternoon, guests were transported by motor coach to the showrooms and warehouse of Hair Art, where Jackie Yu described how he had built a multimillion dollar beauty supply company and hair replacement network. Everyone then proceeded to “The Little Door,” a picturesque neighborhood restaurant, to re-energize
Motorcoach ride to an evening of education and fun
“We need to be aware of the rapid changes in our profession, as well as taking advantage of new marketing venues.” Mel and John Laudolff Owner – Transitions Hair of Wisconsin
17 The National Hair Journal Summer 2011
18 The National Hair Journal Summer 2011
Hair Society News www.nationalhairsociety.org
Garnering Great Results with Groupon
12 sales to activate the offer.
By Lisa Zimmerman As we all know, marketing to our prospective new clients in the hair industry is often aiming at a “moving target”. Marketing vehicles that worked great in the past, don’t garner the same results they used to. That’s why at National Hair Centers we are always looking for new, effective methods to reach people in need of our services. This year, we have begun to utilize email revenue sharing coupons. While there are many marketing companies offering some variation of this service, we decided to initially work with Groupon, the original and largest company of this kind. You have likely seen numerous offers on Groupon, the dealof-the-day emails that offer low-priced specials on everything from cafe lattes and car washes to hair salons and hair removal. National Hair Centers was recently the “Feature of the Day” in Phoenix with a laser hair promotion. Groupon typically works as a 50/50 partner. As the advertiser, NHC provided an attractive offer, and, Groupon provided their 550,000 subscriber audience in Phoenix (market subscriber statistics vary by market). Together, the advertiser and Groupon split the sales revenue. There is no charge for running with Groupon and they design the ad content as part of their services. The ad copy is written “tongue-in-cheek,” a style designed to reflect a hip, attitude. The team at Groupon knows their audience well, and suggested we offer a 12-month expiration limit and have a minimum of
Our distinct offer featured - 3 Months of Laser Hair Therapy for $99 — a $1,000 value I admit this offer obviously has a much Lisa Zimmerman smaller profit margin than is normal for us. Board Director, NHS However, we made the decision to offer it in the anticipation that many of the new clients would continue to purchase services from us once their three-month treatment was over. Our offer debuted on Easter Sunday, and despite the holiday timing, garnered 87 new clients. Within 48 hours, six new clients had already come in and received consultations and started their laser treatment. Groupon delivers a large, loyal, and mostly young female (77 %) audience who are bargain conscious, brand savvy, beauty consumers. This is a target that has increasingly become harder and harder to reach through traditional media. This being said, we also achieved outstanding results with men. Is Groupon right for you and your company? It really depends on your offer. If you can create a Groupon offer that has a low enough price to attract new clients but still has a large enough margin that you can split the sales revenue with Groupon, then, I believe it is definitely worth considering. I would not recommend running a loss leader item that will cost you money in the sole goal of achieving leads to upsell. Groupon is available in 40 markets throughout the country. To get more information, visit their website at www.groupon.com.
The Case for Licensing Yvonne Solomon talks with trichologist, David Salinger David Salinger, IAT MIT, is a qualified tricologist specializing in hairloss, baldness, alopecia areata, hair breakage, hair damage, psoriasis and other scalp problems in men and women. David is the executive director of the International Association of Tricologists (USA) and an honorary member and past vice president of the Institute of Tricologists (UK). He obtained an honors degree in Business Studies From the University of Birmingham, England, and a Graduate Degree in Human Relations at the London School of Economics Before Studying in London to Become a Qualified Tricologist. In 1974–75, he developed an educational program in hairloss and scalp diseases at the University of Southern California and has spent most of his time since then training tricology students throughout North America, Australia, New Zealand, Singapore, India, South Africa and South Korea. David is the author of “Guide to Hair Loss), now in its seventh printing, and of “The Picture Guide to Scalp and Hair Problems”. Both books are used at colleges in several countries. David lectures on hairloss throughout the world and is often consulted by the media in his capacity as a specialist of hairloss and scalp problems and as an expert witness in legal cases involving hairloss or breakage. He was the first person to use the amino acid “tyrosine” in the treatment of such autoimmune problems as alopecia areata, psoriasis and folliculitis decalvans. Yvonne Solomon, spoke with Mr. Salinger after attending a seven-day clinical workshop for thirteen trichology students in Dallas, Texas. Yvonne Solomon: Mr. Salinger, you’ve been offering clinical training in North America for many years. How did this class compare to others you’ve hosted in different parts of the world? David Salinger: The students were excellent and we were fortunate to have a lot of local clients to work with. The one thing that stood out when we reviewed these case studies was the high incidence of ‘scarring alopecia’ due to either chemicals, braiding, or a combination of the two. This was more pronounced in this week’s class than I’ve seen in other countries.
Stay tuned for future updates on the upsell/conversions for these 87 new clients. We are anticipating great gains from our NHJ Groupon special!
Choosing The Right Style For Your Client By Gigi Ford When choosing the right style for your client it is very important to take into consideration the shape of each head. Different head types require specific styles to ensure the Hair Prosthesis looks natural and not like a wig. Your Hair Prosthesis client will appreciate the extra attention to detail you provide in selecting a hairstyle that will complement each individual face. Below you will find tips that will help you choose the very best style for each client.
Gigi Ford
By taking care to note whether your client has an oval shape, as opposed to a round shape for example, you can increase your technique as well as the overall satisfaction of your client. The way you direct your f ingers to the way in which you elevate the hair, will determine the f inal outcome of each style. Utilize the Face Guide below to determine which hair style will suit your client best.
used to be a big thing in America but over the past few years things have changed. YS: There are a lot of classes, but they tend to focus on the cosmetic and styling side; the appearance, color, cut, and fluff. Not so much on the health and the wellness of the hair, or for that matter, the wellbeing of the individual. DS: Unfortunately, you are right. A lot of hairdressers don’t know what they’re really doing to their clients’ hair. Another thing that worries me is how African Americans treat their hair, partic-
YS: In the US, trichology is not recognized as a separate discipline from cosmetology. Does this hinder the acceptance and spread of trichology? DS: I certainly think if we could one day get a license in trichology, it would make a big difference to the hairloss market. Some years ago, the organization offered trichology licenses in the state of Maryland, but very few people made the commitment to get this qualification and they did away with it. This was back in the seventies. But I think it’s time to revisit it again. Unfortunately in America, it has to be done state by state, as opposed to federally, so that takes a bit more effort. YS: Your particular program includes a lot of technical information. It requires a lot of diligent effort and serious study. Is there some sort of middle ground between the stylist who doesn’t need this specialist knowledge and the dedicated professional who demands a quasi-medical qualification in hair loss? DS: Yes, we offer an ‘Introduction to Trichology’ course, which deals with a lot of the things that concern hair stylist and technicians. For example, hair breakage due to chemicals, or programs to teach them what’s happening to the hair when they do these treatments. In the past, I’ve developed similar programs with some of the cosmetic companies that provide training for hairdressers. We actually developed programs based on their own products, explaining how they work and going into the structure of the hair, perming and bleaching. Things people need to know, but often don’t. So yes, I definitely think there are a lot of cosmetologists that don’t want to go to the level of trichology, but would like to, and need to, know more technical stuff about the products they use every day in their salons. When I first came to America, I did some work for Redken training hairdressers. It would be good for some of the big companies to do that again. Education
ularly when they’re youngsters. The media needs to publicize this to discourage this and prevent more damage. YS: We looked at an article earlier this week, where the media placed the blame on braiding and weaving styles, in effect saying that chemicals were not the real culprits. But based on the clients we’ve seen here at this workshop, the majority of them had scarring that was clear evidence of chemical damage. David: I know you’ve been seeing clients like this for years and you feel that chemicals are the top concern, but don’t neglect braiding. Braiding also puts a lot of stress on the hair. YS: If you could wave a magic comb and more forward in time, where would you see trichology in the United States? DS: Well, it would be lovely to have state licences in trichology. I realize this takes time, but if the number of trichologists continues to grow, it’s a realistic goal. I’d also like to see legislation to prevent the fraudulent “licensing” of clinics that have not completed specialist training. This is a big problem in Australia. We see sales people who don’t have any qualifications pretending they’re hair experts and people spend thousands of dollars to get their so-called ‘expert’ advice. YS: What about trichology as a discipline? Is it getting the recognition it deserves? DS: I’d love to see trichology formally recognized as a serious and important specialty. When we created our educational program 1974 and ’75 at the University of Southern California (USC), the Redken foundation was an important sponsor. Redken put a lot of money into developing the course, but there wasn’t the strong response from hairdressers that we expected. So maybe it was before its time. Today, we see more young people concerned about health and lifestyle, so there is a renewed interest in trichology. YS: We’re very much aware of the increase in autoimmune diseases, all types of hair loss, and hair and scalp disorders. So maybe another company will take up the challenge and invest some money into continuing your efforts to promote hairloss research and education. DS: That would benefit everyone. We need better education at every level. Even if a cosmetologist or medical assistant doesn’t choose to become a qualified trichologist, our programs give them the knowledge base to really help their clients. So my advice to everyone is always study as much as you can. YS: In conclusion, I thought I knew a lot, but this week has helped me to appreciate how much there is still to learn. I look forward to completing the course and being one of the trichologists to spearhead this important education. Yvonne Solomon is a well-known educator with special knowledge of the ethnic and laser therapy markets. She is a member of The National Hair Society and a frequent contributor to The National hair Journal.
19 The National Hair Journal Summer 2011
On Rite Conference 2011 “The Shape of Things to Come” Ft. Lauderdale, FL. 02.11 - Nearly three hundred and fifty hair professionals from all over the world gathered for On Rite’s Conference 2011, themed “Shaping Your Future” at the Hard Rock Hotel and Casino in Ft. Lauderdale, FL.
On Rite President Andy Wright and Gloria Ford
advantage of this revitalized opportunity. The conference’s theme, “Shaping Your Future”, became apparent - literally and figuratively - in the multi-stage presentations in which 13 hair replacement methods were showcased. Thanks to On Rite’s cutting edge technology there were a myriad of new methodologies to learn; the multiple-stage demonstrations allowed for a free flow of technical information to be exchanged between platform educators and attendees. On Rite staff Lisset Valdes, Penny Green, Robin Brown and George Kaftan, in a Mardi Gras state of mind.
As has been the case for the past several years, the On Rite Conference continues to be a highly anticipated and well-attended event. This year proved to be no exception. While the rest of the country huddled in freezing temperatures, the conference attendees were greeted by the balmy breezes and warm hospitality of the On Rite “family”. It began with a “meet and greet”, where old
Andy Wright with Dottie Peoples
Peoples (a Gospel Hall of Fame inductee) who sang several beautiful melodies to set the tone for the conference with its Mardi Gras inspired theme. On Rite president, Andy Wright, along with chief operating officer David Schwartz, welcomed the crowd and made sure that everyone’s glass, and plate,
After lunch, activities resumed with the conference’s keynote speaker, Jane Handly. A customer service expert and renowned author, Ms. Handly delivered a humorous, inspiring and provocative talk that she termed, “Would You Do Business with You?” It was a return to the main stages thereafter. But while the technical folks reveled in the atmosphere of falling hair, the business and owners meetings focused on new opportunities, In keeping with On Rite’s dedication to educating its client studios in the art of new media, Rachel Perlmutter from The Art of Online Marketing Company presented “Strategic Social Media Marketing”. She then followed up with “Prospect Mining with Facebook”. This class was standing room only! To further reinforce its commitment to online media, On Rite then featured Jerry Schroeder from Media Power Advertising to give a resounding presentation entitled “Managing Your Internet Presentation”.
Rhonda McCarthy & David Schwartz with Dottie Peoples
Attendees learned how to reach and then service the medical market with Jonalee Schmidt’s wealth of knowledge on medical hair loss. Rounding out Monday’s business classes was Jeff ElZenny. He shared successful tips on convert clients from laser to non-surgical hair replacement. A long day Monday continued into a “hard day’s night”, as Andy and the On Rite family hosted a Mardi Gras inspired dinner and dance party, complete with a live band. The grand prizewinner, Dawn Harrison of California was also announced at that time.
On Rite attendees crowd “The Marketplace” to view the latest On Rite products.
Sabrina Cavener, Annie Donofrio and Eric Famechon
An exhausted, but still enthusiastic audience greeted the next morning with a sumptuous breakfast buffet in the Grand Ballroom. In order for everyone to gain the most from the technical classes, since many of them were held concurrently the day before, the “Only Girl in the World”, “Whatta’ Man”, and “Pretty Girl Rock”, “Forever Beautiful”, “Sultry Syntress”, and “Beautiful Day” were reprised.
Janet Silvers, Flora Fuentes and Sima Hilde
It wasn’t all about falling hair: business classes for owners and managers offered the latest marketing and sales information that could be applied to each studio’s business model.
Hair everywhere: On Rite staff answering attendee’s questions about On Rite women’s hair augmentation
were full. The beautiful tropical setting, along with the camaraderie, was a prelude to the activity that would take place over the next several days. It was off to work on Monday morning, February 28th. After breakfast, Andy Wright set the stage, or more accurately, “stages” for “the shape” of what was to come. Andy’s well-renowned wit was well received, as he openly spoke about the challenges and the opportunities that faced the hair replacement industry. Most salient was his belief that the men’s business will be resurgent in the coming years and that On Rite would help its studio partners take
The drawing for a grand prize of $1,000 was won by Dawn Harrison of Vista, CA, shown here surrounded by On Rite staff members Marti Farber, George Kaftan, Rhonda McCarthy, David Schwartz and Christine Graham.
On the business side, perhaps one of the event’s most awaited presentations was made by Rob Hoffman, in “Confessions of a Salon Owner”. This was a continuous presentation made over a period of two and halfhours, and as usual, to a packed crowd. Many studio owners remarked that Rob’s presentation was worth the entire cost of the conference all by itself. As the crowd began to file out to begin the long trip home, amidst the clatter of dishes and glasses being cleared, Andy gladly accepted the handshakes and best wishes that were bestowed upon him from the exhausted, yet still exhilarated crowd. And as everyone left the room, Andy sighed, “I think I’m going to take the rest of the day off. I don’t have to start thinking about the next conference until tomorrow, he remarked with a chuckle.
Children with Hairloss founder Regina Villemure provided step-by-step instructions on creating a full head mold for children who suffer hair loss from medical conditions
20 The National Hair Journal Summer 2011
Summertime and the Bonding is Easy... By Jimmy “The General” Toscano
It’s summer! Time for swimming, picnics, fireworks... heat and humidity! We all love the warm, sunny weather, but it can become a problem with a bonded hair system. As I’ve said many times, the most undetectable bond is achieved with soft bond. On most clients, you can achieve a terrific bond. But what happens during the summer months when your client enjoys water sports? Or your client works outdoors in the heat and humidity and perspires a great deal? Big problems, right? They don’t have to be. By knowing your client, his/her lifestyle, and various bonding methods, you can achieve a bond that will make your client happy. Let me give you some alternatives for the client who normally wears a soft bond. This client is an avid boater and water skier. Unfortunately, if the client is in a lace system with a soft bond, you’re in for big problems with these activities. If you can’t get your client out of a lace
system, an alternative is to create a bond with lace support tape and Ghost Bond. Apply lace support tape around the perimeter of the hair system. Apply one coat of Ghost Bond on the lace tape and 4 coats of Ghost bond on the entire scalp. Once the adhesive has turned clear, both on the lace tape and on the scalp, set a timer for 7 minutes to let the adhesive cure. After the 7 minute curing time, place the unit as you usually do. Inform your client not to shampoo or get overheated for 24 - 48 hours. Another alternative is using the “holed” tape. On a lace system, this tape can be put directly on the base. On a skin system, you must put 3M or Redline tape down first, then the holed tape on top of the other tape. These types of bonds will hold well, but they aren’t as undetectable. My best suggestion is the new “thin” skin systems that many manufacturers are featuring. These systems are completely undetectable, can also be bonded with Ghost Bond, and your client can enjoy water sports the same day of the bond. Make note, though, that your client should be advised to refrain from strenuous activities that cause exces-
sive perspiring for 24 - 48 hours so that the bond will cure properly. Just remember: when using Ghost Bond, it must cure for 7 minutes before the hair system is placed on the client’s head. Another great feature of the thin skins is that the heat from the scalp will dissipate right through the system. Your client will not perspire as much or be as hot as with a regular skin system. Remember - once you seal the scalp totally with Ghost Bond, your scalp isn’t “breathing” anyway. Give these systems and this bond a try. If you have a client who can’t comply with the 24 - 48 hour curing time, there is a product available that can be applied to the client’s scalp that will cut down on the oiliness. This product is ‘No Sweat.’ It is an antiperspirant for the scalp. It is applied to the scalp before the Ghost Bond.
FLASH REPORT
Hollywood Actress Wigs Out Los Angeles, CA 02/11 - Actress Jennia Fredrique is becoming Hollywood’s latest fashion trendsetter. Frederique’s flair inspired Maria Valentina, hair couture label from Brazila, to design a new wig based on one of her most popular hairstyles. Valentina said they had no choice but to create this product after so many of their online clients included Jennia’s pictures with their orders to illustrate the look they wanted to achieve with their lace wigs. Ms. Fredrique attended the Golden Globe Awards earlier this year and was rated one of the best dressed. NHJ
Have a wonderful, safe summer. And as always......Patience, Persistence, and Precision.
Bella Dream Hair Introduces Custom Hand-Made Wigs
Until next time...
Los Angeles. 05/11 – Bella Dream Hair, the exotic hair extensions company, will introduce custom hand-made wigs to their hair inventory this summer. Composed with Brazilian blends, the custom wigs will be hand-crafted by Rochelle Yanique and will be available by special order through the company’s website. Rochelle will use Bella Dream Hair to create custom styles by sewing extensions onto a breathable nylon cap complete with adjustable straps and is one-size-fits-all. The custom hair pieces will have the look and feel of a natural-looking sewn-in hair extension with all the convenience a wig offers. Wig clips can be sewn around the perimeter for easy day-to-day removal or clients can choose to have the hairpiece sewn around the perimeter of their own hair. Bella Dream Hair extensions come in most natural colors, from light blonde to dark black, and can be worn by women of any ethnicity. The average length of Bella Dream Hair extensions is from 10 to 24 inches. The extensions are made from 100% natural human hair.
Jimmy (the General) Toscano – a Pennsylvania native, is an eighth-generation hair stylist and one of the nation’s top authorities in non-surgical hair replacement systems. His knowledge of attachment technology is unequalled. In spite of a 60-hour workweek, Jim still finds the time to demonstrate his techniques at major hair shows and write a series of educational articles for The National Hair Journal, many of which have become collector’s items. Jim is assisted on stage, in his studio and at the computer by his multitalented and beautiful wife, Linda. The General is also a faculty member of The National Hair Society.
For more information, visit belladreamhair.com or call (818) 641-6392.
21 The National Hair Journal Summer 2011
The Way We See It... The National Hair Journal works hard to enhance the hair-management marketplace. Sometimes it’s an uphill battle. The last few months have not been the industry’s best. We can’t do all the heavy lifting. Take a look at the following, then let your voice be heard!
What Would You Do? The Propelage Challenge ABC’s, “What Would You Do” program chose hair loss infomercials to test the ethics of actors in a pretend casting session. A fictitious hair growth lotion, “Propelage Power” was created and the actors were asked to make exaggerated and dishonest claims about the products’ performance. In over two days of shoot-
THE NATIONAL HAIR JOURNAL
Lasers” we have to assume that this procedure was carried out in a beauty salon. If so, the only consumer benefits that can be advertised are “cosmetic,” in other words, things like “appearance” or “texture.”
The National Hair Journal was founded in 1997 as a business resource for salon and clinic owners. Its mission is to provide hair-management professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will help them provide superior service to their patients. It is a full-color tabloid, published quarterly and distributed worldwide.
Editor In Chief Christopher Webb cwebb@nationalhairjournal.com
Creative Director Avi Roth aroth@nationalhairjournal.com
Salon owners everywhere know that laser light therapy is being scrutinized by the regulatory authorities whose job it is to see that cosmetologists do not step over the medical boundary and make hair growth claims. This advertisement, it seems to us, is like a red rag to a bull and could bring the FDA and local health authorities charging into an important growth market and causing mayhem.
Legal Advisor Joel Morgenthau
Technical Advisors Isaac Brakha Dr. Shelley Friedman Larry Oskin Maryla Fraser
Contributing Correspondents James Toscano Bobbi Russell Mark Deo Toni Love Steven Dimanni Marilyn Wayne
European Director
But it doesn’t stop there. The company’s website reveals the cost and profitability of laser therapy to any web surfer who happens to be passing by. One page, carrying the title, “Let’s Talk Money” tells everyone, “Laser service does not require much of your time. The laser does the work–not the stylist. This means we are talking about a true revenue source.” The webpage then goes on to give the numbers, pointing out that 50 clients paying $300 per month would deliver income of $180,000 a year! So one company through its aggressive marketing tells you and your clients how much money could be made with very little effort, at the same time as suggesting you can regrow hair. In our judgment, this is not fair to you, the customer or the laser industry.
Beyond Cross-Marketing. The Hair Journal is an aggressive promoter of cross marketing but even we are left behind by John Paul of Paul Mitchell, who has introduced a line of pet care ing, only 4 out of 19 people had reservations about pretending to be bona fide clients with. They recorded money back promises, even though they knew them to be false.
Walking the tightrope The last edition of American Salon featured a laser advertisement featuring before and after photographs of a client who began laser therapy with severe thinning and after 28 weeks, had a thick, richly colored head of hair. Since the company name is “Salon Lasers” not “Clinic
Editorial Policy
fought long and hard to overcome its early “snake oil” image and position itself as serious and responsible. Hairloss Network takes us back 20 years. Negative publicity is hard to overcome. Negative publicity based on old perceptions is especially difficult. There are three ways out of this conundrum: Hairloss Network stops the cartoon campaign. Or, The hair replacement market does nothing and hopes the Facebook campaign does not go viral. Or, the hair addition market hits back against the transplant people with a “Dolls Head” or “Under the Knife” campaign and ups the pain threshold until Hairloss Network calls it quits. Meanwhile, the consumer is likely to stay home where the ethics and company are more agreeable.
The Haircut One day a florist went to a barber for a haircut. After the cut, he asked about his bill, and the barber replied, ‘I cannot accept money from you, I’m doing community service this week.’ The florist was pleased and left the shop.
Worse yet, even recommended Propelage Power after they had been told it was associated with cancer risks, and actually drank the dangerous lotion on camera to reassure viewers that they had no need to be concerned about the side effects. After the show, professional analysts explained that actors will do anything to get a break. But could there be another explanation? Could it be that hair loss infomercials are already so discredited that actors don’t think they’re doing anything immoral? Or looking at it another way, why did the show’s producers think hair loss was a good product category to make their dubious-ethics point?
Hans Diks
When the barber went to open his shop the next morning, there was a ‘Thank You’ card and a dozen roses waiting for him at his door.
products, all attractively packaged and promoted under the slogan, “Pet Care with a Salon Pedigree.”
Not Funny! We are also dismayed to see the cartoon campaign on Facebook from hairlossnetwork.com. We understand that it’s a competitive world, but civilized animals do not eat their young! We believe good marketing highlights product benefits, and mediocre marketing has to resort to ridiculing the competition. Hair replacement and restoration has
Later, a cop comes in for a haircut, and when he tries to pay his bill, the barber again replied, ‘I cannot accept money from you, I’m doing community service this week.’The cop was happy and left the shop. The next morning when the barber went to open up, there was a ‘Thank You’ card and a dozen donuts waiting for him at his door. Then a Congressman came in for a haircut, and when he went to pay his bill, the barber again replied, ‘I cannot accept money from you. I’m doing community service this week.’ The Congressman was very happy and left the shop. The next morning, when the barber went to open up, there were a dozen Congressmen lined up waiting for a free haircut. NHJ
The National Hair Journal is 100% independent and is not beholden to, or influenced by, any individual investor, manufacturer or other commercial interest. The Journal does not pay for the use of submitted material but it will give credit to contributors. Wherever possible, we encourage writers not to include company or brand names unless they are necessary for a more complete understanding of the article. The National Hair Journal works hard to ensure that all published material is objective, fair and courteous. It reserves the right to edit material it deems to be overly commercial or that unnecessarily denigrates a competitor. The National Hair Journal has a history of profiling prominent personalities in the hair-management industry. These interviews are based upon the prominence of the candidate and requests by Journal readers. Interviewees do not pay to be profiled and there is no commercial relationship between interviewees and their advertising. ADVERTISING
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The views expressed in The National Hair Journal are those of the individual author or contributor and not those of The National Hair Journal, its editors or staff. The Journal’s contents reflect the opinions of the authors and are not analyzed, peerreviewed or otherwise investigated before publication. All authors and contributors are asked to disclose any interests they have of a commercial nature. The National Hair Journal makes no attempt to validate the sufficiency of such disclosures and makes no warranty, guarantee or other representation, expressed or implied, with respect to the accuracy or sufficiency of any information provided. The publication of an advertisement does not constitute on the part of The National Hair Journal a guarantee or endorsement of the quality or value of the advertised product or service or any of the representations or claims made by the advertiser. The National Hair Journal accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All articles and letters become the property of The National Hair Journal and may be edited for clarity, presentation and space. By allowing your articles, interviews and personal commentary to be used in The National Hair Journal, you are giving the publication permission to use these materials in its pages, website and other information materials. Advertisers are required to sign a formal advertising agreement indicating that they are not violating any trademarks or other intellectual properties. Full details are outlined in The National Hair Journal Media Kit. COPYRIGHT
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22 The National Hair Journal Summer 2011 Robert T. Leonard, Jr., D.O., FAACS, founder and Chief Surgeon of Leonard Hair Transplant Associates, has been practicing hair restoration surgery for over twenty-five years. In that time he has seen the market fundamentally reshape itself as new procedures and new products have gained acceptance. While some hair loss professionals were anxious about these new technologies, Dr. Leonard has embraced change and saw it as a means to improve and expand the services he is able to offer his patients. Today, his clinics in New England offer anti-aging service like Botox injections, facial fillers, and low-level laser light therapy in addition to hair transplant surgery. He is also the consumer Hair Loss Expert for hair growth drug, Rogaine. The National Hair
Journal asked Dr. Leonard to talk about the importance of cross-marketing, explain the significance of Rogaine’s new foam formulation and discuss whether “enriched” minoxidil products offered any additional benefits. NHJ: Rogaine was the first hair loss pharmaceutical to be approved by the FDA. Since then, a lot has happened. The medication has been improved and there have been new clinical studies. Could you bring us up to date? Dr. L: Rogaine was approved in 1986 as a prethe Upjohn scription medication by Pharmaceutical Company. In those early days, it was necessary for every hair loss sufferer to visit a physician’s office to obtain a prescription. Since then, it has become an over-the-counter (OTC) medication, which means it’s readily available without a prescription. The biggest improvement for the medication happened approximately four years ago with the introduction of Rogaine Foam. Prior to that, it had only been available as a solution, available in both a 2 percent and a 5 percent concentration. There was a shortcoming with this formulation however, since one of the ingredients necessary to keep the minoxidil component stable was propylene glycol, which can be a skin irritant. For many people, this caused itching, scaling and redness of the skin. The new Rogaine Foam did away with the propylene glycol, so people can now utilize it without those dermatological side effects. NHJ: I understand new clinical studies have recently been completed that bring more accuracy to the hair growth data because new hair growth was measured by weight. What is the significance of this? Dr. L: Measuring by weight as opposed to hair count is the gold standard for measuring the volume of new growth. The study you refer to was based on this more-sensitive data and it confirmed even more convincingly that Rogaine does indeed work very effectively. NHJ: There was a recent report in Consumer Reports, which presented mixed results. Why the difference? DR. L: Consumer Reports claimed that only 4 or 5 percent of people utilizing Rogaine found it to be beneficial. I was shocked when I saw that because I use Rogaine in my practice every day, and I know it works very well. So I contacted Consumer Reports and looked into their survey. The explanation was very simple; people were stopping the medication prior to it becoming medically efficacious. They stopped using Rogaine before it even began to work! People would use it for a month and say, “Geez, this medication hasn’t re-grown my hair yet,” and we know that Rogaine Foam takes at least four months of twicea-day usage to begin to slow down the progression of hair loss. Bottom line: every patient or person buying Rogaine should be educated properly and be told that it takes four months at minimum to slow down hair loss progression, 8 to 12 to regrow hair, and that it needs to be used twice a day every day, and on a long-term basis.
Rogaine Foam Doing It Right
NHJ: These instructions are already printed in the label, so clearly people aren’t reading and following them. So who does the education; TV advertising, GPs...? Dr. L: One of the greatest values of seeing a hair restoration surgeon is having an actual hair loss expert who can monitor your progress, because watching hair grow, in my opinion, is like watching paint dry. It is extremely difficult to self-monitor. I like to see my patients at six-month intervals to determine if the medication is working. I’m like a cheerleader for my patients because, at the six-month mark, when I see early re-growth, I can point it out and celebrate with them. It’s exciting and helpful for them therapeutically. NHJ: Are you suggesting that there should be a “Rogaine- Pro,” available only by prescription? Dr. L: We would end up going backwards by having a prescription-only medication again. But if patients were educated by physicians or hair care professionals, then followed and supported in some manner, I think we would see more compliance and, therefore, more successful outcomes. NHJ: So is the solution to tell consumers to seek some kind of professional partnership? Dr. L: I think that’s an excellent proposal. Obviously, as hair restoration surgeons, we’re experts in all aspects of medical and surgical hair treatments and contacting someone like us would be a logical option. However, given that it’s an over-the-counter product, it may be easier for them to find a local salon that specializes in thinning hair solutions. NHJ: What would your message be to the hair restoration surgeon who says, “My patients can buy minoxidil in their health food store and even in Costco? Why should I offer it myself?” Dr. L: I don’t think it’s necessary that the doctor actually sell Rogaine in his or her practice. But I do think it’s important that the brand Rogaine Foam is utilized, because it really does provide a big improvement. Patients can buy the medication anywhere they wish, as long as they understand everything about it and they don’t stop therapy prematurely. NHJ: What about the different formulations? Do consumers really understand the benefits of foam versus liquid? Dr. L: A lot or people still use the liquid formulation, but they don’t apply it properly. Liquid Rogaine often makes people’s hair greasy. Foam is a better way to go and it’s easy to apply. I have a procedure I recommend to my patients. It’s offlabel, but I think it’s a better way for them to use the product. I have them shampoo in the morning, lightly towel dry their hair so it’s still quite damp (the Rogaine Foam instructions indicate to dry the hair first, which I personally think is a mistake), then I have them dispense an amount about the size of a ping-pong ball of Rogaine Foam into the palm of their hand. They then should lift the damp hair up with one hand and dab the Rogaine directly onto the scalp. Because it’s a mousse consistency, it’s easy to dab it through the damp hair right onto the skin where it belongs. Do that over the entire top of the scalp. After that, they
“Don't make this a burden. It should take ten seconds to apply Rogaine Foam, morning and night.” can do whatever they want. They can blow-dry it, use styling products, curl, and straighten whatever they wish. My point is, don’t make this a burden. It should take ten seconds to apply Rogaine Foam, morning and night. Again, it’s off-label according to the official instructions, but I think it’s a better way for people to apply the medication without having difficulty with styling their hair afterwards. NHJ: Is all minoxidil created equal, or is there a better minoxidil formulation? There are a lot of custom formulae are out there. How do you feel about them? Dr. L: I’m not too thrilled with generic medications because there’s more leeway regarding the percentages of the active ingredient in the formulations, and that makes it difficult to control dosages and monitor results. The nice part about a fixed formula is getting consistent results so I am not a big fan of mixing other items within the
Rogaine formula. Many people will put Retin-A in there with the thought that the Retin-A will irritate the scalp, allowing for better penetration of the minoxidil. I have not found that to be the case in the last 25 years. Some people will include saw palmetto, although there have been no proven studies whatsoever that that is helpful topically or orally. And who knows what else other people put in there. I say, stick with something that’s proven. Stick with something that’s scientifically sound. NHJ: In short you are not in favor of “enriched” minoxidil? Dr. L: I am not because I don’t think it provides any additional benefit to the patient. There was a physician in the Boston area for 20 years who made a tremendous amount of money by adding RetinA to his minoxidil product. I saw these patients just as he did over the years and frankly, I didn’t see anything different whatsoever. Sometimes, actually, the Retin-A would cause a skin irritation that was problematic. In my opinion, the Rogaine Foam formula is the best. NHJ: You are the lead researcher on Rogaine, and it would be remiss of me not to try and get a peek over the time horizon. Is there anything coming our way that we can anticipate? Dr. L: I’m actually not the lead researcher. I’m the ‘Ask The Expert’ for Johnson & Johnson pertaining to Rogaine, so I really don’t do anything with their clinical research. I am aware of a recent study that was undertaken in Europe to compare once-a-day use of Rogaine Foam to twice-a-day use of 2 percent minoxidil in women. The results of the study haven’t been widely published, but I believe they found that using Rogaine Foam once a day in women was just as effective as applying 2 percent liquid minoxidil twice a day. Meanwhile, my opinion is still that twice-a-day dosing of Rogaine Foam (though off label for women) is the
“I’m like a cheerleader for my patients because, at the six-month mark, when I see early re-growth, I can point it out and celebrate with them.” best regimen for both men and women. In my long experience, there’s much better efficacy at twice a day dosing. NHJ: Rogaine and Propecia; do you recommend combining therapies? Dr. L: Yes, whenever possible. We know that Rogaine works with one population of follicles on the scalp and Propecia with its own. So two therapies are better than one... and three therapies are better than two. The more follicles under therapy, the better the efficacy. NHJ: Rogaine and laser light therapy. Is there a synergy? Dr. L: There is, with the same reasoning. NHJ: A young man who you might hesitate to do hair transplant surgery because his thinning pattern has not yet emerged. Is Rogaine is right for him? Dr. L: Absolutely. There’s no reason for a young person, man or woman alike, not to be on Rogaine therapy if there are signs of a male or female pattern hair loss because we know it does stabilize progression very effectively, and re-growth occurs approximately in 50 percent of patients. So, as long as they realize that they have to use it for the long-term, I think they should start it as soon as they see the first signs of hair loss. NHJ: Are there any side effects of Rogaine Foam that people need to be alerted to? Dr. L: The most common side effects are dermatological: some scaling, redness and itchiness, but much less than the liquid formula. In rare circumstances, patients could have who have increased heart rate or swelling of the ankles. This is extremely unlikely, but if there’s any side effect, they should stop the medication. NHJ: You have been performing hair restoration surgery now for 25 years, and over that period of time the marketplace has changed radically. We have seen the advent of the pharmaceuticals we’ve been talking about. We have seen the traditional non-surgical market slow down and perhaps begin to contract. And just recently we’ve seen the FDA clearance of robotics for FUE medical procedures. Would you comment on these changes? Dr. L: I think the market has evolved enormous-
ly for the benefit of all our patients. Over these years, the big round grafts we did back in the ‘80s have given way to the beautiful, virtually undetectable, if not totally undetectable, transplants we can do today. In the non-surgical marketplace, hair replacement hairpieces now are so much more natural for individuals who either choose to use that type of hair system or are not candidates for transplantation. It’s wonderful, too, that we can treat progressive hair loss before it becomes too severe. So, everything has evolved for the benefit of hair loss patients everywhere. I’m proud to be one of the individuals to lead our profession in helping our patients live more comfortably. Hair loss bothers people tremendously; particularly women, and almost 20 percent of my surgery patients are women today. It is wonderful that we can help these women who otherwise would be suffering tremendously with their hair loss. NHJ: Hair loss is the most visible sign of aging, but there are other symptoms, as well. Do you see surgeons like yourself moving from hair into other anti-aging procedures? Dr. L: Most definitely. I have been doing this in my own practice for the last 10 or 12 years, starting with Botox. I have a very large Botox business, and now a minimally invasive filler practice, where I utilize Juvederm and Radiesse along with the Botox, as necessary. You know, we’re all slowly but surely aging, but inside often you feel so much more youthful than you look in the mirror. These minimally invasive treatments can really refresh and erase the signs of aging so you look like you feel again. Facelifts or a brow lift or eye surgery are something for some other physicians, not for me, but my patients are thrilled with the anti-aging choices I can offer them. I have had Botox and fillers done on my own face, and I have to tell you I feel so much better once those signs of aging are erased. I’ve also offered laser hair removal in my practice for a number of years. We’re providing one-stop shopping for our patients who are slowly but surely observing the signs of aging and want to fight it. NHJ: How do you feel about robotics? Is this is a benefit to the industry? Dr. L: It helps that we have computer programs that are able to automate some of the detailed and time-consuming parts of transplant surgery. But I’m concerned that we may be taking some of the personal involvement and creative planning away from the patient. It’s a very expensive piece of equipment I’m sure the learning curve is quite high, but nothing is wrong with progress. It’s great for the clinic that wants the cutting edge in technology, but the cutting edge isn’t necessarily the best for aesthetic results. “Old” things aren’t so bad if they provide better aesthetics. NHJ: You have twenty-five years of experience in the field of hair transplant surgery. What advice would you give a physician who is considering entering this specialty? Dr. L: The most important thing is to know your limitations. There’s an art and a science to medicine and cosmetic procedures. In hair restoration, I think the art greatly outweighs the science. So if you are considering adding aesthetics to your practice, it’s critically important to get excellent training and not be a cowboy. Don’t simply attend some weekend course and the next thing you know, you’re setting up a surgical practice. That’s wrong. At a minimum, start attending the ISHRS meetings to see how complex hair restoration really is, compared to the way may appear at first glance. Thinks about the nuances, the aesthetics, the consultation process and making sure patients understand what they can realistically expect. Patients typically expect a lot more than you can provide, and if you make one mistake they’ll have a lawyer on your doorstep right away. If you don’t have adequate training, you will have not a leg to stand on and all the hard work you’ve devoted to traditional medicine will be reversed with one lawsuit. So, the bottom line is: understand your limitations, get excellent education, start slow and ask experts their opinions before jumping into something without thinking it through completely. NHJ: Any other final thoughts? Dr. L: Hair loss bothers individuals very much. Don’t mock it. If patients come to me from another physician who downplayed the importance of their hair loss, it’s worth a phone call to that doctor, in my opinion. I do it several times a year. I talk to primary care doctors and dermatologists who may be insensitive to hair loss, particularly for women, and let them know if they’re not comfortable treating this condition then they should refer them to someone who truly cares about hair loss. Female pattern hair loss needs special understanding. It’s important to listen to these women. The stories are long, sometimes they’re intricate and involve hormonal problems and many physicians will poohpooh and try to minimize the problem. Hair loss is a serious problem. If it’s something you’re not
comfortable treating, refer them to someone who is. Finally, it is astounding that 25 years have passed since I began in the extraordinary field. I have to thank my parents, my wife and life-partner, Kathy, my children, and my colleagues who have stood by me during these years of very, very hard work to have brought me where I am professionally and personally. NHJ
23 The National Hair Journal Summer 2011
24 The National Hair Journal Summer 2011