1 The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2013
Hair Restoration Behind the scenes at Restoration Robotics
Education
People
Seen ‘n Heard
Beyond Green
What happened… What you Missed…
How Neuma cares for earth and hair
Page 12
Page 8
with CEO, Jim McCollum Page 15
Technology A Beginner’s Guide to Fume Extraction Why your clients will breathe easier Page 11
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Volume 16 No 65
The Professional Publication of Hair and Skin Rejuvenation
Aderans Completes Acquisition of Hair Club
Tokyo & Beverly Hills. 04/13 - Aderans Co, Ltd. has completed the acquisition of Hair Club, a leader in the North American hair replacement services market, for $163.5 million. “We are pleased to complete the acquisition of Hair Club and warmly welcome Hair Club customers, employees and franchisees to the Aderans group,” said Nobuo Nemoto, founder and representative director of Aderans. Headquartered in Tokyo, Japan, Aderans is a global provider of hair replacement and restoration products and services, owning internationallyrecognized brands ADERANS for men and women, FONTAINE for women, BOSLEY, a provider of hair loss solutions and medical hair restoration and now HAIR CLUB, the leading North American “all proven solutions provider” of hair restoration services for men and women. “The acquisition of Hair Club significantly grows Aderans’ North American revenues. By bringing together Bosley and Hair Club, Aderans now has the largest network of surgical and non-surgical hair restoration services in North America,” said Joshua Schechter, Chairman of Aderans America Holdings, Inc. “We will now focus on combining the best practices of Bosley, Hair Club and Aderans in order to provide the best experience and results for our customers.” Minneapolis-based Regis Corporation acquired Hair Club in Dec 2004 but chose to divest itself of its hair replacement subsidiary in 2013 to focus on its core retail and education operations. Regis received $163.5 million in cash from Aderans for the divesture and is expected to record a post-tax gain of about $12 million from the deal. Hair Club holds around 5% share in the $4 billion U.S. hairloss market. There are nearly 98 North American Hair Club locations, including 29 franchise units.
Cooling Cap Long Hair is Back! Prevents Hair Loss Hollywood shows the way. During Chemo. London, UK. 05/13 - A new scalp-cooling system called DigniCap has just been FDA cleared for final clinical trials and may soon become available in the U.S. to help prevent chemo related hair loss. Clinical trials done in Europe and Asia show that eight out of ten women who used the DigniCap System during chemotherapy retained their hair. Cooling the scalp during chemo sessions can narrow blood vessels around hair follicles and slow the uptake of the poison in the area. DigiCap, patients wear a special cap that fits snuggly on the head and contains sensors and channels through which a cooling fluid is pumped. The system continuously keeps a check on the temperature to ensure consistent application of the cooling treatment. DigniCap is made by Swedish company Dignitana.
Where Are $6 Million of Hair Donations? Nonprofit Investor, a company that monitors not-for-profit organizations, has reported that approximately $6.0 million in hair donations is not accounted for by Locks of Love, a charity that makes wigs for children with alopecia and cancer. According to the report, Locks of Love receives around 104,000 hair donations per year to make “hair prosthetics.” That should be enough to produce around 2,080 hairpieces, taking into account that 80% of donated hair can’t be used because it is too short, gray, or bleached and that it takes six to 10 donations to make a Locks of Love wig. But in 2011, Locks of Love made just 317 of its custom-fitted wigs, according to Nonprofit Investor. If that’s true, a whole lot of hair is unaccounted for. Nonprofit Investor notes that since the retail value of each wig is between $3,500 and $6,000, according to Locks of Love’s own calculation, the unaccounted hair could be worth some $6.6 million. Locks of Love says on its website that it sells unusable hair to offset manufacturing costs. But the nonprofit only disclosed $572,997 worth of hair sold on its 2011 income tax return, which still leaves over $6 million of hair missing from its public records. Nonprofit Investor notes that of the 62 nonprofits it has reviewed, this is the organization’s first negative evaluation.
Better Grey Than Bald
Brad Pitt is seen here with Angeline Jolie at the premiere of his new film, World War Z.
Capilia Expansion Continues
The DigniCap System
Locks of Love Suffers from Hairloss
Quebec, 04/13 – In March 2013, the Capilia Group welcomed the Ross Studio, located in Quebec City, to its expanding network. Capilia now groups together 27 professional hair loss centers in Canada and 2 in the United States. “Our mission is to provide a complete range of solutions to hair loss sufferers ranging from surgical to non-surgical,” said Sam Donofrio, Capilia President and also satisfied customer! Capilia, already the largest group of hair loss solutions professionals in Canada, plans to extend its presence in the US market in 2013.
Richard Gere better than ever
London, UK - New research carried out by Fudge, a professional haircare company, reveals that 60 per cent of UK men would rather go grey than bald. The research also revealed that men find their signature hairstyle at 32 years old, with over one in five admitting that their signature style must reflect their personality. And dispelling the myth that men don’t follow hair trends, the poll also revealed that certain celebrities have an influence, with 20 per cent of men admitting they want to grow their hair longer to emulate the slicked back styles currently being worn by the likes of David Beckham and Bradley Cooper. “There is a common misconception about men that they are not influenced by hair trends, yet these findings show that British men make a significant number of attempts in finding their signature style, just two less than the average woman. A hairstyle that reflects their personality is clearly a priority for the modern man,” added Fudge creative director, John Vial.
Spring/Summer 2013
Poll Shows
Overwhelmingly Support for Licensing Phoenix, AZ. 04/13 - The Professional Beauty Association (PBA) is proud to announce the results of its first-ever national poll regarding the regulation and licensing of cosmetologists. Conducted in December 2012, the poll showed that 94 percent of general election voters from across the U.S. overwhelmingly supported the required licensing of beauty professionals and feel these licenses protect the public and improve both the quality and safety in the beauty industry. Results also showed that the public, prior to the poll, did not understand the connection between licensing and public health issues like lice and scalp disease. After being informed of the issues, 67 percent of voters said the connection was obvious when ensuring proper sanitation and cleanliness.
Robot Gets Gold Medal Artas Robotic System is 2013 Edison Award Winner SAN JOSE, CA. 04/13 - Restoration Robotics’ revolutionary ARTAS(R) System has been honored with the Gold medal at the 26th Edison Awards ceremony honoring innovators and innovation, in the science/ medical category. The ARTAS Robotic System is the first and only FDA-cleared, physiciancontrolled, computer-assisted technology for hair transplantation. This minimally invasive solution offers patients permanent results with no linear scar. The system’s robotic precision offers hair restoration physicians and patients unprecedented levels of safety, efficacy, and patient comfort. The Edison Awards are among the most prestigious accolades presented to innovative new products, services, and designs. The awards celebrate human creativity and excellence in achievement, and recognize leading innovations in the spirit of ingenuity embodied by Thomas Alva Edison.
“Summertime, And the Growin’ is Easy Follicles are pumpin’ And the keratin’s high…”
Our hair grows an average of ½-inch per month and right now it’s growing faster than at any other time of the year. Summer is a great time to be a follicle. An adult body has about 5 million hairs, with over 100,000 of them on the scalp. We lose about 50 to 100 hairs every day, but for the next three months they’ll be scrambling to get back! So, hush little baby, don’t you cry…
2  The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2013
3 The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2013
the
To
the
HairConsultant.com recently published a very informative Infographic illustrating the treatment options available to women suffering from hair loss. While there are many ineffective products that fail to deliver successful results, Laser Hair Therapy is being hailed as a life-changing female hair loss treatment. HairConsultant.com has produced this “infographic” to illustrate the available options to women suffering from hair loss. Acceptance/Coping - Support groups, community chapters, online forums and counseling may serve as a reassuring outlet for women who are seeking support. Alternative Treatments - Currently, there are three, hair loss supplements approved by the FDA. 7% of patients reportedly suffered a negative reaction when receiving one or more of these treatments. Camouflage - Within the U.S. 75% of all faux-hair products are sold to women. Hair Transplantation - There are some rather frightening risks associated with this method including scarring, postoperative infection, excessive bleeding, delayed healing and damaged hair follicles. Laser Hair Therapy - An effective women’s hair loss treatment option has emerged in recent years, and is quickly gaining attention with its estimated 94.4% success rate!
Have You Heard About Pulse Wave Energy?
Only two devices on the market feature this technology!
In the next issue: Hair Club, what happens now? Plus a special interview with Walker Tape to learn what this industry icon has up its sleeve. You will also meet Nick Johnson, the inventor of the revolutionary FumeIron that will keep you and your clients free from toxic fumes and, as they say, much, much more... Chris Webb
Simply put, Pulse Wave technology is the next generation in Laser Hair Therapy. There are new products that have adopted this technology, and more are sure to follow. Read about these products and the evolution of Laser Hair Therapy on our website!
We see results everyday! Do you? AF TE R
Damned if you do, damned if you don’t!: I have been following the Propecia controversy for the last several months and finally decided to take the Finasteride test myself. For readers new to this dispute, Propecia has been attacked by some users who not only claim to have suffered sexual side effects, but also claim that those effects do not diminish when they stop
Food for thought: Sales of hairloss drugs in China where “a full head of hair is linked to virility” are reported to have soared 90 percent since 2007. A study by by the Peking University People’s Hospital and published in the British Journal of Dermatology found that about 21 percent of adult males and 6 percent of females in China suffer from hormone-driven hair loss. I’ll leave you to do the math...
the latest news...
BE FO RE
Do no harm: It is gratifying to see the personal care market facing up to its responsibilities and banning dangerous chemicals from beauty products. Family owned Johnson & Johnson has made a series of public statements about eliminating toxic ingredients in all its products by 2014 and the other major players are moving in the same direction. Closer to home, Professional Hair Labs is known for its commitment to safe bonding and other hair companies are following their lead. In this issue, we profile a trend setting businesses that is taking consumer safety to a whole new level. Neuma is a developer of hair care products that has gone beyond “green” and made a commitment to planet earth that will make even the most ardent recycler feel inadequate! I know you will be inspired to redouble your own efforts after reading about these trendsetters. In the Journal’s upcoming Mid-Summer issue, we will introduce you to FumeIron, a start up company that took it upon itself to develop a novel solution to the problem of toxic fumes when applying Brazilian Blow Out or any other chemical.
taking the medication. The criticisms started in Europe where Merck was forced to change the warning on its packaging, then spread to the US where consumer groups fanned the flames on the Internet. So what was my experience? First, a little background. I have been taking Propecia for seven years without any side effects. In fact, I would get impatient with patients who claimed their love lives were being compromised. But when I stopped my own Propecia regimen, a funny thing happened. I felt more alive, or, not to put too fine a point on it, more libidinous. That’s the good part. The downside was my hair quickly began to thin. Hair that I expected to be part of me forever, suddenly began to disappear. I already knew that without Finasteride protection my hair would go back to the way it would have been without any drug intervention, but I didn’t expect it to happen so quickly. So it’s up to you: put a little color in your cheeks, or keep a little more hair on your head.
AF TE R
Client privilege: We are later than usual bringing you the news because we were waiting for authorization to publish information about some new developments that are going to have a profound impact on the hairloss market as we all know it. However, here at The Journal we are trusted not to divulge confidential information that crosses our desk without explicit permission, and for reasons that will become obvious later, this has not yet been granted. So we have to ask for your understanding: it could be your trade secrets we are protecting next time.
Editor
BE FO RE
From
Editor in Chief
Editor Please visit our website to see even more amazing results acheived with Laser Hair Therapy.
Dear Editor,
out by their health care provider.
I would like to share some important advice regarding female hair loss. Hair Journal readers have only to note the increasing number of products and services in the beauty and hair restoration industry to understand the seriousness of hair loss among women. These products include extensions, hair fibers, supplements, wigs, weaves, prostheses and transplant surgery, but science is giving us new choices and I’d like to touch on some of these in this note.
In simple cases, supplements containing vitamins and antioxidants can help promote healthy hair. Topical scalp treatments containing over-the-counter medication Minoxidil and newer non-prescription cytokine and peptide based topical treatments can also be added. In more serious conditions, prescription drugs or new plant stem cell derived products can also be used to address excess DHT production, the leading cause of hair loss for men and women. The FDA has cleared certain LED devices that use photo modulation to increase hair growth. While some hair restoration centers are using PRP (platelet rich plasma) procedure to restore hair growth, there are insufficient studies to demonstrate efficacy.
We understand the biological causes for hair loss namely: aging, genetics, hormones and nutrition. And we are aware that chemicals, traction, heat and pollution can exacerbate the problem adding to hair breakage and hair loss. While some hair loss, such as thinning as a result of hormonal changes during pregnancy are temporary, we must also consider a broader range of contributing factors since there are multiple treatment options available today, each one tailored to a specific condition. Since early intervention will often yield the best result, consumers need to be informed of these choices once treatable medical causes such as anemia and hypothyroidism have been ruled
The bottom line for hair management professionals is to be educated regarding the science based products and treatments and stay away from hyped advertisements. And hair loss clients should be encouraged to seek help early on, when they are most likely to benefit. Susan Lin, M.D. San Mateo, CA
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4 The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2013
Marketing
Staying Licensed
Join the “I Am Licensed” Movement
Voters Overwhelmingly Support Licensing of Beauty Professionals and the “I Am Licensed” Campaign Many states have recently made moves to potentially deregulate and/or remove the licensing requirements for the cosmetology profession. The Professional Beauty Association (PBA) has been a staunch defender of maintaining professional licensing and has been actively organizing individual professionals, manufacturers and distributors in order to educate their governments on the implications that deregulation would mean for the professional beauty industry and most importantly, consumer safety. Further aiding in the PBA’s efforts and what beauty professionals should take note of are the results of PBA’s first-ever national poll
regarding the regulation and licensing of cosmetologists. Conducted in December 2012, the poll showed that 94 percent of general election voters from across the U.S. overwhelmingly supported the required licensing of beauty professionals and feel these licenses protect the public and improve both the quality and safety in the beauty industry. Results also showed that the public, prior to the poll, did not understand the connection between licensing and public health issues like lice and scalp disease. After being informed of the issues, 67 percent of voters said the connection was obvious when ensuring proper sanitation and cleanliness.
PBA wants individuals to be proud of their profession. Licensed professionals can sign-up for the free “I Am Licensed” movement at probeauty.org/iam. PBA will send a window cling and helpful talking points to share with clients about the risks associated with unlicensed service providers.
GEOGRAPHY LESSON
Survey Highlights Eighty percent of voters understood that beauty professionals must attend school in order to receive a license. Voters were least likely to know that training in preventing the spread of disease was necessary, though 60 percent did identify it as a requirement. Eighty-two percent of voters said that quality and safety would decline if states ended licensing and regulation in the beauty industry. Ninety-four percent of voters support required licensing of beauty professionals.
Eighty-eight percent of voters believe that requiring licensing protects the public from possible infection and disease. Overall, PBA’s national licensing poll showed that voters understand the necessity of licensing beauty professionals. Poll numbers show that voters also understand that licenses and continued education help ensure proper cleanliness and sanitation practices in hair salons and spas, ultimately affecting the quality and safety of cosmetology practices.
Beauty professionals can also sign-up to be a part of continued grass-roots efforts in their state and stay up-to-date on the latest issues affecting our industry at probeauty. org/advocacy. Professionalism in our industry matters and it is everyone’s duty to uphold professional standards. The best way to do that is to stay united, stay organized and share our passion for helping others to look and feel their best.
West Palm Beach, FL - In the Seen ‘n Heard section of our last issue, The Journal incorrectly stated that a photo of New Image co-founder, Les Martin showed him at the company’s Annual Conference in Coconut Grove, Miami. In fact, he was attending a special ‘Randy Martin Lifetime Achievement Award ceremony at the Norton Museum of Art in West Palm Beach with his beautiful wife Cheryl! Les Martin and wife Cheryl at Hairloss Hall of Fame
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5 The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2013
Follea Offers 4C Workshops F
ollea, Inc., a leading designer and manufacturer of natural European wigs and extensions will
be hosting 4C Workshops from July through November in its Beverly Hills Salon. Follea 4C Workshops are designed to allow Follea Atelier professionals to reach the highest level of expertise in handling high-end human hair wigs selected by clients, and creating custom hairpieces for clients.
Comprehensive program - Each 4C Workshop covers care, cut, color and customization of human hair wigs and hairpieces and includes four hands-on classes and a binder filled with facts, tips and techniques taught at the workshop. Follea will also host lunches and a dinner for program attendees to network with their peers and industry professionals. Each workshop concludes with a Q&A session with a Follea representative, including Follea President, Michael Leigh, Master Stylist and Educator, Vicka Khanis and Technical Expert and Educator, Holly Slear. Personalized awards are given to recognize the high level of competence and professionalism achieved upon completion of the course and stylists will also have the opportunity to be featured on the Follea Salon Finder website. Professional support - Vicka Khanis collaborated with a professional scientist/ educator to design the Care Workshop, to teach hairstylists about the types of available added hair and the appropriate products, instruments and techniques for styling, brushing, drying and storing high-quality human hairpieces. Khanis will share the best techniques to avoid hair inversion through the wig cap when shampooing, and how to prevent loosening of knots when conditioning and other potential damages. The Care Workshop also covers how to identify and correct a client’s problem areas using added hair. The Color Workshop covers the basic chemistry of hair color and formulation, color correction, the different types of hair colors and coloring techniques. Through the course, participants will learn how to create natural looking highlights, correct color stains and learn how to color the roots of the hair without staining the wig cap. Participants will also be taught how to create the best hair color formula to achieve optimal results, every time. Khanis will share how to best use various volumes of peroxide and will share microscopic photographic evidence of what happens when human hair is bleached with the wrong product. During the Cut Workshop, hairstylists are trained to achieve ideal personalized results for each client. The course emphasizes the difference between cutting the hair that is attached to a wig cap versus cutting hair that grows from the scalp. The course teaches hairstylists how to create haircuts to suit a client’s face shape. Khanis will demonstrate how to cut either a short, layered bob or long layers and various styles of bangs. She will also demonstrate how to cut in a natural hairline and using a razor to create texture and softness in the hair, as well as how to avoid overcutting wigs.
Vicka
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The Customization Workshop familiarizes participants with Follea products and all the customization options, including the many types of caps, ventilations, and hair types, lengths, colors and styles. Knowledge of the wide range of Follea products enables hairstylists to provide the best, cost-effective solutions for their clients. The course also covers how to sell Follea products to increase a salon’s revenue and how to respond to objections from clients during the sales process.
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6 The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2013
Hair Loss Is the New Normal Hair Loss Control Clinic Trichologist Andrea Hayden Offers Guidance for Essential Salon & Spa Services
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Latham, NY “Hair loss has no age, no face and business. Often, your life’s passion is rooted no color. Years ago, people didn’t understand in your pain.” the magnitude of hair loss and no one wanted to talk about it. Now all you have to do is look In 2005, she sold her partnership in Salon around. Every single person knows someone Visage and stepped out on her own, starting with hair loss, if they are not experiencing it The Hair Management Group. She wanted a themselves. It is the new normal,” notes Andrea special environment for her hair loss clientele, Hayden, professional one that felt less trichologist and like a traditional owner of The Hair salon and more Management Group like a medical spa. in San Antonio, Clients with special Texas. Hayden has issues had complete a total of 30 years in privacy and her the beauty industry. undivided attention She was a hairstylist during treatment. and salon owner Trichologists are for years before academically trained experiencing her own in hair and scalp hair loss that led her biology and how to to become an expert recognize disorders in hair restoration. or early signs of She is now recognized potential issues yet as one of the best do not diagnose in the country. A or treat them self-proclaimed medically. Hayden Andrea Hayden “education junkie,” sometimes partners Hayden continued with physicians for her advanced education after obtaining her clients with medically induced hair loss. cosmetology license. She eventually found her After a detailed consultation in the clinic and niche in hair loss with classes in non surgical a digital microscopic hair and scalp analysis, hair replacement, scalp care and trichology, the Hayden makes an assessment and discusses scientific study of hair and scalp disorders. She treatment options. Treatments include hair is completing an internationally recognized detoxification, Low Level Laser Treatments, certification program with the International scalp exfoliation, topical solutions and hair Association of Trichologists in Sydney, replacement if necessary. Australia which is the only globally recognized trichology association today. In addition, she Hair Loss Treatment Partnerships: In is a Certified Hair Loss Professional though addition to medical doctors, Hayden works Hair Loss Control Clinic. with holistic professionals and nutritionalists to help develop a full treatment plan. She Salon & Spa Opportunities to Treat Hair Loss: partners with the Hair Loss Control Clinic For any salon owner or hairstylist considering of Latham, NY to offer professional product becoming a hair loss specialist, Hayden has systems of DHT inhibitors, scalp hygiene only good news. She shares, “Your work will and haircare maintenance products as well as become so much more rewarding as you LLLT treatments with clinic lasers. Hayden will become very focused on a needs-based sees a mix of Ethnic and Caucasian clients clientele. These clients really need you and and notes that while they all have similar your expertise. They will appreciate the fact hair loss issues, ethnic clients tend to have that you took the time to retrain and recreate much more chemical and mechanical causes. your business for them.” A hair loss business is “Ethnic hair is textured. When chemicals also recession proof with the fact that during are improperly applied or without a licensed economically hard times, luxuries will be professional trained in maintaining healthy sacrificed while their needs will continue to hair and scalp, extreme damage could result. exist. Hair loss specialists also work with higher The improper installation of hair extensions revenue streams, seeing fewer clients a day and tight braiding can strain the hair and cause and working fewer days a week. Hayden says, traction alopecia, which can result in large “For a traditional salon owner, if you are not areas of hair loss, yet can still be reversed if invested in hair loss programs in the next three treated early.” years, I believe your business is going to be in trouble. You are going to be losing clients Hayden’s life and career changed dramatically at an alarming number because if you cannot with a telephone call from Essence Magazine offer solutions, then your competitors will.” in 2010. Essence wanted permission to list her as one of only seven haircare experts in Andrea Hayden: Hayden started her career the country specializing in hair loss. After she as a traditional hairstylist, opening Salon was originally featured, a follow up article Visage as her first business in 1993 and teamed Hayden with a dermatologist for an growing it successfully to 45 employees. She in-depth piece that included her philosophies quickly became known in her area as a person and recommendations on all aspects of hair specializing in healthy hair as she continued loss. The phone started ringing from clients to advance her career. In time, the challenges all over the country looking for her expertise. of running a business didn’t allow her to focus Hayden shares, “After that media exposure my on furthering her education in hair loss, where business turned a corner. I had still been seeing her real passion lay. Hayden had experienced my traditional hairstyling clients in addition to health issues including a thyroid condition that my hair loss clients and was working seven days had resulted in her own hair loss, beginning a week so that I could see my hair loss clients her interest in becoming a hair restoration in private. I knew I had to make a change and expert. She shares, “As a hairstylist it was I cut probably 50% of my clientele, which devastating to lose my hair. Yet my hair loss was one of the most difficult things I had to has ultimately helped me to relate even more do. I looked at every client’s case individually with the clients that I deal with every day. I and decided who needed me the most. I focus mainly on women because I know what didn’t just drop them though; I transitioned they are going through and that it is not just them into another salon and made personal a vanity issue. My own hair loss has been an recommendations.” unfortunate benefit to me in my Trichology Continued on Page 21 ›
7 The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2013
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8 The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2013
Education
Doing the Right Thing Sustainable, natural, healthy choices are bigger than a “trend” – they are a new way of thinking
The National Hair & Skin Journal is committed to safety and responsibility. That’s why we publish. We were surprised and delighted therefore; to come across one company that has taken these concerns to a level unlike anything we have seen before. Neuma Inc. raises the bar for manufacturers and distributors everywhere. The following interview with Tommy Dionisio, Neuma’s Chief Sustainability Office and Partner explains why.
Hair & Skin Journal: Mercedes Benz has a company motto, “The best or nothing” and talking with you, it seems Neuma has adopted a similar “Safety or Nothing” philosophy. What led your company to take this uncompromising position and develop 100-percent safe and sustainable products?
HSJ: When you buy food, you can look at the label and know what to avoid. But buying cosmetics it isn’t as easy is it?
TD: Absolutely not… because of the label law. When you’re talking about food, you have what we call the raw input ingredient label law. So whatever goes into the product is shown on the bottle. But in personal care, we have what’s called “process chemistry,” which refers to INCI, International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients. INCI is what personal care companies use to name ingredients on their labels. The difference between food labels and personal care labels is as follows. If a food
discover it causes cancer. So consumers are now empowered to flip a bottle over, read the ingredients and use these resources to get a better understanding of what’s in their products. But it’s still an extra step, and not everyone wants to go online every time they buy a bottle of shampoo.
HSJ: How can Neuma help? TD: The consumer wants transparency in a brand so they can really learn what’s in the product. One of the big things about Neuma is we are transparent. I’ll give you an example. We don’t use trade secret terms like “fragrance.”
HSJ: Why is Neuma leading the charge? Why not Procter & Gamble or L’Oreal?
TD: There is no reason for it not to be Procter & Gamble or L’Oreal. Perhaps one explanation is the fact that they don’t start companies, they purchase existing companies, and most of these acquisitions have not brought natural, organic, healthy products with them.
HSJ: Is product safety an idea whose time has finally come?
TD: I think we’ve hit the tipping point. We are all getting older and we’re starting to realize that the cumulative effect of the chemicals we’ve used all these years is starting to show itself. We have people who have celiac disease, something we didn’t hear of 20 years ago. We have people with lupus and Crohn’s disease, and obviously, cancer. So now people are asking questions. “Why? How did I get so sick? What did I do?” It doesn’t take long before they realize that chemicals like parabens and propylene glycol cause cancer. It is important to read the ingredients and not the selling points on the front of the bottle. If you read Diethylalomine and other unpronounceable ingredients, ask yourself if you really do want them. We’ve created a brand that is free of all of them and called it “Zero.” Not only are the products completely chemical-free, but, more importantly, they perform.
out there, so we didn’t throw out the baby with the bathwater. We started with what we knew. We’ve been manufacturing for companies serving the professional salon industry for many years, so we know what chemistry works from a performance standpoint and what chemistry has to be avoided. We also know there are natural ingredients that bring tremendous performance to the table, so we were able to create products that are not only healthy and sustainable for people and the environment, but also perform. That is key.
HSJ: What are the product categories of greatest risk to the consumer? Is it shampoo, conditioner, color? Is it heat?
TD: Well, it really depends on the chemistry. Shampoo is probably the most damaging because people don’t realize how vulnerable their skin is. Your skin is covered with sebum, which is a beautiful secretion that’s designed to protect you from the onslaught of chemicals. Sebum is oil, so when you shower, that oil is removed, leaving the skin is at its most vulnerable. With its pores wide open, we assault the entire body, from head to toe. Shampoo is the most dangerous product you use in the shower, followed by conditioners. Leave-on conditioners tend to be a little less problematic because typically, you’re only putting them on your hair, which is dead protein. Unless you breathe in caustic chemicals from the aerosol, the conditioner is going to remain on your hair and not get into your lungs or skin.
Tommy Dionisio: My background is in natural products, and in the natural products world, we see more and more people becoming concerned about the chemicals they use on their bodies. Chemicals are being flushed down the drain and getting into our rainwater system, streams and oceans. In the past, the salon world wasn’t too concerned about that; we turned a blind eye to what we were doing to our bodies and to our planet. But that’s changing. Our company is trying to bring some of the logic that has been growing in the natural products world into the personal care and professional salon industry. There are a lot of companies that use terms like “organic,” “healthy,” “green,” and “sustainable,” but for the most part, these are just marketing terms. When you dig below the surface, those products still have the same chemical formulations as the ones that don’t use this advertising puffery. Not surprisingly, both consumers and stylists are very confused. So we decided give professionals an opportunity to represent sustainability and health by providing them with products that really were chemical free but would still perform as well as the brands they were used to.
TD: Both. There’s a lot of good green chemistry
HSJ: When a professional buys products to company were manufacturing soap, it would list corn oil and lye, the ingredients that when mixed together cause the raw ingredients to make soap, even although there’s really no lye in the product when the process is complete. In fact, the finished product ends up containing soap and glycerin. Food companies have to list all the raw ingredients. So when a bakery makes bread they would list the raw input ingredients as water, sugar, flour, yeast, etc. When they are mixed them together and baked, the yeast undergoes a transformation (process chemistry) and is therefore no longer found, but yeast is still shown on the label. These rules don’t apply to the personal care market. In process chemistry, we rename that process. So if we were to make bread in personal care, we’d create a fancy name like “techo glucocide” for the bread because when soap is made, we create what is called, “decyl glycoside.” So it’s not surprising that consumers don’t know how to read labels. However, we now have the Internet with sites like WebMD and Skin Deep’s database to help consumers type in “decyl glycoside” to find that it is a gentle surfactant of corn. Or, if they typed in “methylparaben” they would
Fragrance is a license to hide all the chemistry in the fragrance. There are 5,000 chemicals that make up fragrance. Not all fragrances are created equal. Each product you pick up smells different, yet they all say “fragrance” on the label. The same word, but a different scent. Of the 5,000 chemicals that make up fragrance, only 1,650 have been tested to determine if they’re safe or not. Of those 1,650, over 800 are known carcinogens, neurotoxins, asthma instigators, or skin sensitizers! But not one of them needs to be listed on a bottle because they’re called “fragrance!” By getting rid of words like “fragrance” and listing every single ingredient used in a product, you’re making yourself transparent to the consumer. If users could actually read what’s in your product they would know to stay away from things that are dangerous or that they are allergic to.
HSJ: When your company decided to create a more responsible product, what was your strategy? Did you start taking out the bad stuff, or did you start from zero and build with only good stuff?
use on their clients, what are the warning signs they should be looking for on the label?
TD: Well, there are things we’ve all learned to look for - no sulphates is an obvious one. I think everyone knows to look for no parabens already, and I believe they are starting to hear bad things about disodium EDTA and the dangers of propylene glycol. Propylene glycol is a chemical that’s been used for years in our industry, but nobody bothers to read the Manufacturer’s Safety Data Sheet (MSDS). The MSDS sheet is something that a manufacturer must make available to every employee of the company to let them know of any health risks that they might be exposed to. In fact, the company has to have an MSDS for every chemical in every product used. The MSDS for propylene glycol says, “Caution. Don’t let it touch your skin. May inhibit skin cell growth and cause kidney and liver damage.” Now after you reading this, any worker would want to be extra careful. So if you were working on the production line, you would want to wear a mask and gloves as you carefully pour this product into a bottle… that will be sold to a consumer who’s going to use it all over his/her entire body! Think about it. Where’s the consumer protection? Some other misleading descriptions are things like “extracts” that are designed for preservation. For example, grapefruit seed extract. Grapefruit seed extract is used as a preservative, but have you considered what’s in the “extract” itself? Has the “extract” been preserved? If the extract is 50 percent methyl and ethylparaben, of course you don’t need any other preservatives; you have parabens in the extract! What about “fragrance?” Like we said, “fragrance” is a trade secret word. You can hide so much chemistry in the fragrance and not have to tell the consumer. You want to stay away from trade secret words! You want to stay away from disodium EDTA’s and chemicals that end in “paraben” as well as from any chemical that has E-T-H in it
9 The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2013
TD: We have a Product Knowledge Training
TD: We are committed to sustainability.
program where we outline the things I’ve just explained and then go one step further. We teach participants why those chemicals are bad and what those chemicals do to the environment. Most of all, we want to empower people to discover these things for themselves and to pass on that knowledge to their clients.
Economically, environmentally, and socially. Our country needs to go back to its heritage. American Indian tribes would make decisions based on how it would affect up to seven future generations. To that end, our company uses wind power for energy generation and we require all our vendors to offset their energy use with wind energy. All of our bottles ® are made of 100-percent recycled plastic. All of our BEAUTIFUL SUSTAINABLE printing is done with water-based inks, not soy, because it’s genetically modified. All of our boxes are 100-percent recycled. Every single brochure we manufacture has an ECHO audit on it. It tells you how many gallons of water we didn’t use, how many gallons of chlorine weren’t used and how energy was saved using wind energy. We require our reps to do everything online. We ask everyone we deal with to go online and use virtual communications because it is a more sustainable way. So no matter where you look at our company, you will realize that we’re deeply invested in sustainability. Even to the point that we don’t have an office. Our office is housed in our manufacturing plant, and all of our employees work from home and on the road because that is a more sustainable way of doing business.
HSJ: Do cosmetologists pay a premium for safer products?
TD: At this time, they do, yes. But most people don’t mind the extra expense when they discover the reasons for it. There are so many consumers today who have health issues. As they learn that many of them are self-inflicted, they are prepared to invest in a safer future.
HSJ: Do you private label, or do you sell your products only under your own brand name? such as ETH, “sodium laureth sulphate,” or “disodium eth.” Whenever you see “eth” which is an ethoxylated compound, and the process of ethoxylation creates a byproduct called 1,4-Dioxane, one of the strongest carcinogens known. It was used in Agent Orange. Fortunately, there are databases like “Skin Deep” that you can go to for information on any chemical listed on the label. You don’t have to be an expert, just type in the names of the chemicals and find out for yourself what you are using.
HSJ: Do you educate or certify professionals in product safety?
TD: No, we don’t certify anybody in product safety. We certify people, especially our educators, to be able to discover things for themselves; what they need to know about process chemistry and what shouldn’t be in the products they use.
HSJ: How can a cosmetologist participate in
TD: We don’t do any private label. HSJ: You have a distinctive design on your labels, what does it signify?
TD: It was designed for us. It is called a Mandala. Our Mandala was created to show that the environment is special. In the center, there’s the sun and the design goes from the sun to the water, to the sea, to the earth. There are seven elements of seven cycles that remind us of the intricate ways in which everything we do affects our environment and each other’s lives. This graphic is followed by the name “Neuma.” Neuma is the Greek verb “to breathe”. But in the Greek language, the word also means “spirit.” So Neuma means “breathe” or “spirit” in Greek. We thought it was a great name to give to a product that is about health and wellness.
About Tommy Dionisio in his own words: Doing things the way they have been done before is a dangerous substitute for thinking. You pay with your life to become who you are.... make sure it was worth it. Change starts with individuals. Sustainable, Natural, Healthy choices are bigger than a “trend” – they are a new way of thinking. Of taking responsibility to know what you are buying, what is in it, what that means to your health, to your families health, and ultimately to our earth. It is about doing the right thing and being willing to learn just what that is. My mission is to educate and become a catalyst for change in the personal care industry. Creating awareness that transfers into action about the chemicals to which we expose ourselves, and the environment by rinsing down our drains and into our waterways, every day. Sustainability is the post-modern expression of justice. Whether the economic, social and environmental systems that make up a community are providing a healthy, productive, meaningful life for all its residents, present and future. “The significant problems we face cannot be solved at the same level of thinking we used when we created them.” — Albert Einstein
Romance is in The Hair Give Your Client Her Best Hair On Her Wedding Day!
By Leanne Molter, Marketing Solutions, Inc.
HSJ: Are all Neuma products fully biodegradable?
that program?
Your client has the groom, the dress, the shoes, the necklace and the beautiful ring. All she needs now is the perfect hair to pull her whole look together. Whether she wants to wear an elegant upstyle or naturally radiant loose curls, hair extensions are the number one way of boosting your client’s look to the most glamorous of levels.
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Short Hair: Vikki Parman, Top Platform Artist and Educator for Di Biase Hair Extensions USA states that, “For short hair, extra volume may be added with hair extensions for your brides so that a beautiful bouffant hair design may be created. This gives the appearance of an elegant upstyle, without adding length. To add even more height to the bouffant look, a volumizer may be applied at the roots and blow-dried while lifting your client’s hair with a brush and hairspray. A bouffant is a classic look that is wonderful for shoulder length hair.” Thin Hair: Creating a glamorous upstyle for your client’s wedding day may be difficult if you find that she has thin or fine hair. Easy and affordable clip-in hair extensions are the perfect new way to add volume, body and length to your client’s hair for her special day and to help her upstyle hair design look its absolute best. Half Upstyle: Another helpful tool in creating a half upstyle, involves the use of a full head clip-in salon hair extension system. These systems will quickly help you add just the right amount of needed volume, body and length to make a half upstyle look just as voluminous as a curly look with the hair down. The most important trick is to make the volume of your client’s wedding day hair design to appear soft, sexy and touchable. When creating half upstyles or all long loose hair, it is important not to overuse hairstyling products. Hair extensions will make it possible to add new volume without having the unwanted harsh feeling of too much hairspray, gel or product. Luscious Length: Since this is your client’s big day, you should suggest that she take the plunge and go for a full head of luxurious bonded hair extensions that she can wear up or down. These professional hair extensions will blend in beautifully with your client’s natural hair and will last well past the ceremony right through the honeymoon. There are even different textures like straight, curly, or wavy that she can select from without chemically treating her natural hair. Long, healthy looking hair will always be in style for any bride. Hair Jewelry & Adornments: Once your client has selected her bridal hairstyle from your practice sessions, you should also suggest the endless possibilities for glamorous adornments. You will be able to decorate your client’s bridal look with anything from flowers and jewelry to crystals. You could suggest that she have a string of crystals or pearls placed in her hair or an entire crown. Just remember to go with what makes your client happiest on her big day. It is important for your client to look and feel great on her wedding day. She should feel radiant, relaxed, and ready to start a brand new life!
10 The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2013
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11 The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2013
Technology
N
A Beginner’s Guide to Focused Fume Extraction ick Johnson is a man with a mission. In fact, he just might be your new best friend. Nick is
the developer of the FumeIron, a device that removes fumes and noxious gases from the air before they can enter your lungs and harm you. We met Nick earlier this year when he was launching his first device, the FumeIron FXL and we followed up a few weeks later to see how the industry was greeting his invention.
National Hair & Skin Journal: Nick, why are my lungs going to be happier now that I’ve met you?
Nick Johnson:
It all starts with the controversy over toxins in the Brazilian Keratin Treatment. The Brazilian Keratin Treatment came about, about seven years ago, and it was incredibly successful. There’d never been anything like it. But pretty soon word got out that the formula released formaldehyde and a range of volatile organic compounds during the heating process. So on the one hand Brazilian Keratin was one of the biggest things to occur in the beauty industry, and on the other it became hugely controversial. Here was this device that could transform hair and even make damaged hair silkysmooth, but there were these inconvenient
side effects. The product got great exposure in the media at first, but as people began asking questions about the fumes, we began to see suits and countersuits amongst the different formula makers and later came government investigations by OSHA and the FDA. The entire industry was crying out for a solution. There were attempts to solve the problem by using overhead vents and fans or simply opening a window, but nothing worked. My wife is a master hairstylist in San Francisco and right at the beginning, she told me how big this was going to be and advised me to get to work and invent a solution. So I started doing my own research and by thinking outside the box, and a lot of trial and error, I developed a novel solution we call the “FumeIron.”
HSJ: What is a FumeIron?
used in the same way a stylist would use any other iron, so there is no learning curve. Imagine a typical gelatin treatment where the hair stylist is pulling the iron through the hair… the process releases fumes that may contain noxious substances. Now, that stylist might be standing there getting those fumes in her face for 30 - 45 minutes! And what about the customer? That’s a pretty terrifying situation. Well, our iron is able to make those fumes instantly disappear. Here’s how it works. There are vents along the edge of the iron itself, where the metal or ceramic plate is. Those vents suction the smoke and fumes as the iron passes through the hair, before they can drift into the air. Since the vents are located an eighth of an inch from the hair, any fumes are instantly pulled into the iron and travel down a special hose to
a custom-designed fume extractor where they pass through an activated carbon filter. Activated carbon is the gold standard of any industry that has to deal with any kind of filtration, whether it’s air or water. So, what comes out at the other end is clean, fresh air. This is industrial grade technology, similar to what is used in welding or in hospitals. I call it, “focused fume extraction.”
HSJ: How easy is this to manipulate? Doesn’t the hose get in the way?
NJ: It’s not an issue. The hose is about an inch-and-a-half wide. Our design is longer and slightly heavier than a standard flat iron, but it is still easy to use. There is a lot of variation amongst irons; some are actually heavier than the FumeIron.
NJ: Let me start by telling you what the HSJ: There is growing concern in our market Fume Iron is not. It’s not a formaldehyde-free formulation. In other words, it is not based on the actual product or liquid that’s applied to the hair. I took a different path. Over the years, a lot of manufacturers have tried to release formulas that they claim are free of the chemicals that were causing the problems, but those claims are still open to dispute. So I want make it clear that we do not attempt to change the basic formula. FumeIron is a physical device; a salon device that can be used with any formula or any type of treatment. It is not a modification of something already out there. It is a totally new product concept. It took five years of R&D to develop FumeIron! We have several patents pending domestically and internationally.
HSJ: How does it work? HSJ: FumeIron is a modified flat iron that suctions and filters fumes from the hair. It’s
about product safety. Johnson & Johnson, to name one company, has made a commitment to remove all harmful substances such as formaldehyde from its products by 2015.
NJ: That same concern is spreading across all product categories from food to packaging to beauty products.
HSJ: We also see the consumer turning to technology to solve everyday problems.
NJ: Our device is a technology driven solution. There are many things we would still like to do, but the engineering behind FumeIron is a lot more complicated than it seems and we have to advance one step at a time. When I started working with Izunami, we could have gone on forever trying to perfect our design, but I felt an ethical, even a moral imperative to get something into stylists’ hands. Once Continued on Page 19 ›
12 The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2013
Seen
and
Ignite Your Future On Rite Business Conference
By Kevin Gollogly
Professional Solutions With Hair Loss & Hair Replacement Services: Special demonstrations highlighted Gemtress Wigs and Ultratress Hair Extensions services and products and the ways they may be best presented to clients. Presentations were designed to support beauty businesses that want to add or specialize in hair replacement programs.
Meet Kayla Martell: Former Miss Delaware 2010 and Miss America 2011 finalist, Kayla Martell attended conference to personally meet all the attendees and provide a photo opportunity. Kayla is proud to be the official spokesmodel for Gemtress. She received national notoriety as the first professional pageant participant with alopecia.
Heard On Rite Company recently held its ‘Ignite Your Future’ annual business conference at the Seminole Hard Rock Hotel & Casino in Fort Lauderdale to introduce the latest innovations from Gemtress Wigs and Ultratress Hair Extensions. The event featured a diverse array of guest speakers, educational programs, a hair fashion show, wig and hair extension styling techniques, product demonstrations and workshop seminars.
Recover with Confidence: Updates to the, ‘Recover with Confidence’ program were a conference highlight. Recover with Confidence was designed to help women cope with the challenges of chemotherapy and alopecia and find new solutions for medical hair loss with support from Kayla Martell. A new marketing program, ‘The Kayla Martell Effect’ was introduced to brand these specialized services through local and national awareness programs. Each Recover with Confidence affiliated center now has access to customized TV commercials and marketing campaigns, with Kayla Martell as a shared Gemtress spokesmodel.
Andy Wright On Rite founder and CEO
SureThik Debuts at American Music Awards! By Margie Barron There was certainly an exciting buzz at the annual GBK gifting event at the American Music Awards as several celebrities visited the SureThik booth to test out SureThik’s Organic Hair Thickening Fibers. The GBK lounge is notorious for having elaborate gift bags, which it offers to an exclusive list of invited celebrities and this year was no exception. Chris Mann, TV show contestant from The
Voice of Christina Aguilera’s team and his girlfriend were amazed with Chris’s thicker hair after using SureThik. The very talented Booboo and Fivel Stewart also witnessed their own hair thickening transformation. Booboo is known for his role in The Twilight Saga series and Fivel is a talented lead singer and appears in the recent movie, Hansel & Gretel. Myke Michaels, their celebrity Makeup Artist, sprinkled the fibers onto Booboo’s
scalp to renovate his long locks. Patti Stanger, matchmaker and television producer of her own Bravo TV show, “The Millionaire Matchmaker” commented, “I would love to invite Nevio from SureThik to do a makeover episode for clients with hair thinning hair on my TV show.” Author, Margie Barron, added, “I’m going through menopause and my hair is thinner than it once was. It now appears fuller and makes me look my best with
very little effort. That’s really important to me when I attend a lot of Red Carpet.” All of the celebrities and American Music Awards’ guests walked away genuinely surprised by their instantly voluminous new looks. SureThik is safe and reliable for any client with thinning or weak hair including celebrities on stage, actors in movies, women with hair extensions and even hair replacement patients.
Chris Mann, TV show contestant from The Voice
The Backstreet Boys, Howie Dorough & Brian Littrell
Booboo Stewart actor in The Twilight Saga
Patti Stanger, matchmaker & television producer of The Millionaire Matchmaker
Author, Margie Barron
13 The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2013
CyberWorld 2013 Cyberhair dealers came together in Atlanta, Georgia for CyberWorld 2013 where they learned about many new products and marketing materials. This year’s show was expanded to include the Exhibit Hall featuring guest trainers and products, as well as a Cyberhair Main Stage event that featured demonstrations in Micro Point Solutions, Private Issue and Custom Designed Cyberhair – all a great success! This was in addition to Cyberhair’s new products, new techniques, marketing ideas and members’ own networking experiences. The workshops provided great education from studio owners, IHI staff and guest educators. Dave Lemke (R) with Peter Gensler
Carl Walters
The Annual Cyberhair Awards Dinner honored exclusive studio owners who have either made outstanding contributions to the Cyberhair Programs or who have achieved sales milestones. Congratulations went to Cyberhair Special Achievement Award winners, Les Eads, Sharon Johnson, John Rutter, and Dave Lemke and, of course, the latest inductees into the $Million Club, Carl Walters and Mike Mahoney.
Hands-on demonstration
Marketing presentation
This was also the second year that IHI invited studios in open territories that were interested in learning about Cyberhair to the national meeting. Reactions from these first-time guests was excitement about the advanced technology that is a hallmark of IHI and the camaraderie among studio owners who can openly share tips among themselves because they own exclusive markets and are not in competition with each other.
Les Eads with Son Josh Eads.JPG
Mike Mahoney
Sharon Johnson
Dave Lemke (R) with Peter Gensler
It's easy when you have the right tools
Darla shows how
Sharing the skills
Monday afternoon in Atlanta ended with a ferocious hailstorm that rattled windows, dented cars and closed the airport. Maybe the hair gods were sending a not so subtle message to keep CyberWorld 2013 going for one more productive day! Chris Webb with Cathie Fennell (L) and her skin-rejuvenation director.
! e id
ns I ™
14 The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2013
v l i S
x R er
Welcome to Tomorrow!
SilverRx™ Base Net Redefines Comfort and Safety Hair replacement has come a long way. Your clients appreciate the colors and texture, and styling has never been better. But how about comfort and hygiene? What happens under that hair system when they exercise, get anxious… or on those warm, muggy days? They perspire. And that’s a problem. Now your average client has 3 million eccrine sweat glands, many of them on the top their head, and the salts and electrolytes they excrete can get trapped under their hair addition. This frequently leads to discomfort and can create embarrassing hygiene and odor problems.
Well, now that’s changed. SilverRx™ is a next-generation bacteriostatic base
material that prevents bacteria from forming in the first place. SilverRx™ filaments are specially treated with 99.9% pure silver using an advanced technique proven by NASA Astronauts, US Special Forces and Olympic athletes. The SilverRx™ fibers actually conduct heat away from your scalp, leaving you feeling fresh and clean.
Cutting-Edge Benefits. SilverRx™ filaments are remarkably soft and comfortable
without sacrificing strength or durability. And there’s another benefit from that silver coating. SilverRx™ bases actually protect against radiation too. If you are constantly holding a mobile phone against your head, or work in a Wi-Fi intense environment, this is one extra layer of protection you might be grateful for! So for the ultimate in comfort and safety, look for the SilverRx label. · · · ·
Anti-Microbial Odor Management Anti-Radiation Temperature Management
Say good-bye to old-fashioned hair systems —Tell your stylist you want “SilverRx™ Inside” next time you order hair! For more information please contact: New Image - www.newimagelabs.com On Rite - www.onrite.com British Hair Development - www.hair-development.com Or Email: info@newsilverrx.com Or visit: www.newsilverrx.com
BRAVE NEW WORLD
15 The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2013
WHY ROBOTS MAY BE A DOCTOR’S BEST FRIEND In its Fall 2011 issue, The National Hair & Skin Journal talked with Dr. James Harris, principal investigator for Restoration Robotics about the role of robots in hair restoration surgery. Now, nearly two years later, The Journal returns to learn how things have progressed since then and what lies ahead. As is our custom, we went straight to the top and spoke with Jim McCollum, President and Chief Executive Officer. Restoration Robotics, Inc., a privately held medical device company, is dedicated to revolutionizing the field of hair transplantation by developing and commercializing its state-of-the-art image-guided ARTAS® System. This interactive, computer assisted system uses image guided technology to enhance the quality of hair follicle harvesting for the benefit of physicians and their patients.
Hair & Skin Journal: Thank you for joining us, I know you have a very busy schedule. In 2011, we published an excellent interview with Dr. James Harris, who told us about the clinical research he has been involved in and the benefits that new robotic technologies offer surgeons like himself. But before we get excited about the future, I would like step back in time and ask you how Restoration Robotics got started? Jim McCollum: It’s a fascinating story… there was a neurosurgeon who was familiar with robotics and he was having dinner one night with his nephew. Now the surgeon was an M.D., Ph.D. technology individual who utilized robotics technology in surgery and it so happened that his nephew was a dermatologist. So the neurosurgeon said to the dermatologist, “I don’t really know much about the kind of work you guys do, but are there any procedures that could benefit from advanced technology?” And the dermatologist practically fell out of his chair and said, “You should see a hair restoration procedure! It’s an invasive procedure. It takes all day. It requires four to six technicians, and it’s just screaming for automation. It’s just that nobody knows how to automate it!” So the neurosurgeon thought about this, went to see a couple of procedures, thought about it some more, filed for some intellectual property that was granted, and Restoration Robotics was formed. Being in Silicon Valley here in northern California, venture capital was quickly raised, a board of directors was formed, the management team was hired, and the company went to work. The concept was simple; take image processing and smart algorithms and all the other things that are used in other advanced technology areas, and apply that knowledge to hair restoration. Hair restoration is an ideal application for medical robotics because it is such an invasive, tedious, monotonous, precise procedure, that you either do it with a lot of people, that is a barrier to many new physicians entering the field, or you find a better way. We believe through automation, we can harvest individual hair follicles one at a time using a less invasive technique, and do this in a very precise, consistent, reproducible manner. That’s why Restoration Robotics exists. HSJ: If ever there was a market in need of automation, it has to be hair restoration. And with an aging population turning to science and technology for its health and wellness solutions, this is an idea whose time has surely come. JM: Yes, to both comments! That said, we still need to tell people just how effective this surgery really is. The potential is huge. There is a growing worldwide market, not just for patients who are 45 and older, but even younger people. We see our device as an opportunity to leverage robotics in general, help educate people and, of course, deliver a better reproducible procedure. As we work with top clinicians, improve the algorithms and keep doing the things that imaginative humans can do, we anticipate that robotics will be a gamechanging technology. People have tried to automate this procedure before, but nothing has come of it. Nobody knew how to do it until now. Today, with this little robotic arm doing all the tedious, monotonous motions hundreds and thousands of times we’ve found the answer. HSJ: Ordinarily the commercial marketplace welcomes innovation, but in the case of hair restoration you have a different kind of challenge. You have a medical community that is slow to embrace new technologies, and on the other side of the fence, you have a consumer who is skeptical about hair loss solutions in general. How are you dealing with this? JM: Let’s start with the physician first. I think there are three areas to focus on. The first is clinical efficacy. Does the technology work? Is the procedure a good procedure? Physicians like facts, so we carried out some serious research. This technology has been rigorously tested on a worldwide basis. We had to undergo a two-year clinical trial to satisfy the FDA. We demonstrated that our procedure is safe. The efficacy is there and it’s repeatable. So that satisfies the first component with the physician - clinical efficacy. The second area has got to be economics.
These machines are expensive. They cost approximately $250,000 and there’s a disposal charge of approximately $2,000, so you have to show that this is economically viable; that it makes economic sense. And we have done that. In fact, this machine can be paid off with a modest number of procedures in approximately one year. So it’s very compelling. The third area, or question, for a physician is how do you integrate this into your practice? And there we have a special training department. We have business development managers; we have a dedicated team that comes in and provides serious hands-on support. Again, the real premise here is becoming a robotic surgeon. It’s still hair restoration, but it starts with becoming a robotic surgeon. Some people are early adopters; others may not be ready right now. Those are some of the issues on the professional side. Turning to the patient, I think you’re right, the level of education, awareness, and understanding of hair restoration today is still poor among large segments of the population. We believe the market for men and women could be as high as 25 percent or more of the population, but when you look at the actual numbers, we see, there are approximately only 100,000 U.S. procedures being done. However, if an average session costs $10,000 – just to pick a number – that’s still a billion dollar a year market. But that’s just a drop in the bucket. We can do much better than that. We see the robot as a way to attract attention, help educate and create patient awareness. We want to grow the pie for all physicians worldwide. HSJ: Let’s take a typical clinic that has been practicing traditional strip harvesting; they’re not yet into follicular unit extraction. How would they go about learning the ARTAS methodology and bring the device into their practice? JM: The first thing that we recommend is to talk with Dr. Jim Harris. It’s important to meet a current ARTAS user, see a robotic procedure being done, and meet the staff. So we arrange for one-on-one visits. Then if the physician is ready to embrace this technology, he or she would purchase the system. After it is delivered, we offer an extensive training program where we come to the facility and train their staff. We carry out a series of procedures working with them and then, after they have completed this quick start process, that lasts one week, they can start marketing and scheduling procedures themselves. We will still come in to observe and work with them because it’s in our best interest to help them build clinical confidence and reduce the learning curve. Generally speaking, we find that after 10 to 15 procedures these physicians and their staff are highly capable of performing robotic procedures without further input from us. HSJ: Physicians also talk about their artistry; does ARTAS replace or improve their creative skills? JM: It absolutely improves the artistry. I don’t know if you’ve seen videos of the procedure, but we have cameras like your eyes, we have computers like your brain, and we have a robotic arm with a series of microscopic punches that would be like your hand. As we’re dissecting we identify every hair follicle – we know the good ones, the bad ones, the angles, thicknesses, types – and we have an algorithm that says, “Let’s go after this hair, and this hair, and this hair.” So from both a diagnostic and artistic point of view, the system is truly revolutionary. But it’s all under the control of the physician. The doctor or the staff can override the system or make any changes at any time. That’s why we say it’s a tool to enable a physician to practice this less invasive technique and still exercise all his creative talent. HSJ: The final stage is perhaps the most critical, and that’s the placement of the donor hair. Can the ARTAS system provide creative guidance? JM: It’s coming. One of the upgrades we’re working on right now is to prepare the recipient sites. As you pointed out, many physicians believe that their hair pattern is unique to them and it’s something they spend a lot of time on. We respect that, but we will soon be able offer them a tool that will deliver the highest levels of precision while following the physician’s creative directions. I repeat, it will always be under the physician’s control. The physician can either let the system select the best option and monitor it, or they can go in and make changes at any time. HSJ: You mentioned that you can capture information about the angle of the donor hair. Cell multiplication research (follicular neogenesis) has shown that it is possible to grow hair in a Petri dish, but the big challenge is injecting those new hair cells so they emerge from the scalp at the right angle. Even routine procedures could benefit from placement guidance. Continued on Page 16 ›
16 The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2013
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Could your mapping tools identify hair angles when you harvest the donor hair and then encode them so they could be reinserted at the optimum angle?
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JM: In the case of cell multiplication, the robotic delivery system would have to deliver the drug into the scalp or stem cells into the scalp at a certain depth and angle. We have the intellectual property on that, and we look forward to partnering with various companies in the future because creating new hair is interesting, but it has to grow in a natural pattern. A robot with cameras, imaging precise angles and depths could be the ideal delivery system for stem cells, but that’s in the future. We’re currently working on creating recipient sites using the precision of ARTAS technology, but under the direction of the doctor. Today, doctors typically look at the scalp with a pair of loupes, take a needle and manually choose the site and decide on the appropriate angle. But by next year, we will be delivering a tool that can do spacing and angles – 35 degrees, 28 degrees, 44 degrees. The doctor will be able to do things in a more precise manner. HSJ: The benefits, as you present them, are very compelling, but what does it cost to get on board? JM: The ARTAS system delivers multiple cost benefits. Firstly, our users are able to charge a premium for a robotic procedure over a strip procedure. Patients value the fact that it is less invasive. Some patients may still be better candidates for a strip procedure and if they’re comfortable with that, that’s great. Then there are other patients who are not willing to undergo the strip procedure, but now the physician can offer an alternate treatment and not lose the patient. Put it all together and the retained clients and the premium pricing will more than pay for the cost of the robot, the disposables and the marketing. HSJ: Many non-surgical hair replacement studios have substantial databases of thinning hair prospects wanting information about medical options. Do you have any kind of referral or outreach program that could bring these studios into the ARTAS network? JM: Currently we are only marketing and partnering with individual physician practices and medical groups like Bosley. We are focused on improving the technology, rolling this thing out in a controlled fashion and making sure we can support it. Over time, we will do a direct-to-consumer branding/marketing campaign. Right now it is a little early; it wouldn’t be cost-effective. HSJ: How has the industry responded to Restoration Robotics?
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JM: It’s a fascinating question. Some people have seen the opportunity, leveraged the technology and are making more money than they were before the robot. Other people have tried to figure us out. Are we a partner with them? Are we a threat to them? There has definitely been some of that, but when you see the kind of people who have purchased our system, the top clinicians in the world, the results speak for themselves. It’s a very impressive list, and if you were to reach out to them, they would give us very high marks. HSJ: What are you most proud of? JM: The fact that we’re the kind of company that people want to work with. The key reason is our business model. We don’t just sell a robot and then run off and try to sell another one. We don’t make money selling robots. These things are very expensive to produce. The only way that we can survive and grow is through our disposable charge on a per procedure basis. Because of that, we are fully aligned with the physician. If the physician buys a machine and it sits in the corner, they don’t make money and we don’t make money. But when that physician exploits the technology and we work together to do more procedures, we all benefit. We are inherently linked. It’s very important that you understand our business model, why it’s there and why it is a true partnership. HSJ: You have some very prominent physicians as your pathfinders. How important is it to you to have these respected authorities showing the way? JM: It’s extremely important. You want to work with leaders whatever field you’re in. A successful partnership with your key physicians is the way you enhance procedures and accelerate market adoption. HSJ: When a patient comes in for a consultation at an ARTAS clinic, what is he or she told about their new choices? JM: That robot-assisted surgery is a less invasive procedure - which means you have faster recovery, you can get back to work quicker and you can wear your hair any length. There is less risk too; with a robot you get consistent results.
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HSJ: What further benefits do you anticipate from the automation of cosmetic surgery? JM: Restoration Robotics plans to continue to improve on what we do right now. We’ve made dramatic improvements in things such as ease of use, speed, and smart algorithms, and we will continue to do that. We are pursuing the ability to make the recipient sites and secure FDA clearance. And this year we are conducting clinical trials on women. Every new modality requires regulatory clearance around the world, but we believe the next 18 to 24 months will bring important new enhancements to the industry. HSJ: Earlier in your career, you played a key role developing eye surgery procedures. Is hair restoration a logical extension of that experience? JM: The business issues are analogous, although there are obvious differences between vision correction and hair restoration. It’s about getting good science and data, getting a good team of people, going through the rigors of worldwide regulatory approvals, being able to build reliable devices, partnering with key physicians, collecting data and then rolling everything out in a quality way. You’ve got to have a long-term perspective… and it takes a lot of money. You need a strong board and really great investors. At Restoration Robotics we’re not trying to maximize revenue in the next six months. This is about providing game changing technology; creating a brand new robotic category that doesn’t exist today. If we do this properly, this will be a significant business opportunity and patients will be rewarded, physicians will be rewarded,
17 The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2013
and Restoration Robotics should be rewarded. That’s how it played out with Lasik. We started out with a manual procedure called radial keratotomy. It was a viable procedure, but it was still a niche. It was not widely embraced by the medical community and it was certainly not known or widely embraced by the patient population. Now look at it today!
Restoration Robotics Staff
HSJ: Finally, would you like to say a few concluding words on the success of the company to date? JM: We have done very well. There’s still a lot to do, but we’re off to a good start. We’ve more than doubled procedures in the last six months. We have added significant head count and resources, and we’re very excited about the future. James McCollum, President and Chief Executive Officer - Prior to joining Restoration Robotics in October 2005, Mr. McCollum was the President and CEO of Vision Membrane Technologies (VMT), an ophthalmic surgical device company with revolutionary intraocular lens (IOL) technology for refractive indications. Prior to VMT, Mr. McCollum was President and CEO of Argus Biomedical, the first company to commercialize an artificial cornea. Earlier, he served as Vice President of worldwide Marketing and Sales at VISX, playing a key leadership role in helping create a new market category: LASIK eye surgery. He was responsible for creating and implementing numerous professional (doctor) initiatives, direct-to-consumer marketing campaigns, a twotiered sales force and many other major business strategies that helped propel VISX into the dominant market share leader.
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offers customized artwork by turning a salon or spa’s own images into one-of-a-kind original artwork using photo impressionism techniques. By request, Oskin will also personally photograph your salon and spa facility, services and models to create new frame-able artwork.
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Art Beautique work is very stylized. I believe that fine art photography remains one of our best artistic forms of creative media and visual expression. Through the art of creative photography, we are able to share what we can see, sense and feel, yet not touch! With photography, we can artistically share the pleasures of a spa facial, massage treatment or a romantic couple’s retreat. We can visually share the moment of a beautiful sunrise, sunset or cloud, which would otherwise only be a quick memory. With fine art photography, we can celebrate the memories of smiles, happiness, love, warmth, friendship, beauty and spirit. A picture is worth a 1000 words. Nothing comes close when you want to capture a special moment in time!”
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industry since 1975. “I have a passion to help women look and feel better by the fine art photography I create” says Oskin. Originally from Buffalo, NY, Oskin has exhibited his artwork at the famous Albright-Knox Art Gallery, considered one of the ten best modern art museums in the world, and in numerous private art galleries and city museums. Oskin is also owner of Marketing Solutions as a full-service marketing, advertising, graphic design, photography and PR agency specializing in the professional beauty industry.
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18 The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2013
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19 The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2013
we got to the point of having something that was attractive, functional and robust, we knew it was time to go ahead and release it.
anyone. Even the scientists who are getting hired as expert witnesses are giving conflicting information, so the waters have been very effectively muddied.
HSJ: What does it cost to keep those noxious fumes away from your face?
HSJ: Who’s calling the shots; the consumer protection agencies or the manufacturers?
NJ: The FumeIron FXL retails for $1,299. That may seem like a lot of money, but it isn’t when NJ: Both. The industry is moving towards a compromise. Of course FumeIron wants you put it in context. The Brazilian Keratin Treatment is one of the most profitable services that a hairdresser can offer. It takes about an hour, depending on the volume of hair. The average price a stylist charges nationwide is around $200 to $300, but on the East and West Coasts those averages can rise to $400 - $600. So it’s a high profit item. With just 3 or 4 treatments, the machine pays for itself. The FXL is our top-of-the-line model; but we also have an entry level option. We did not aim the FXL at renters or individual stylists. We expected it to be a salon model that an owner or several stylists would buy together. Since the quality is so high, they could leave it running all day and not have to keep replacing the filter. They could also use it to create new business - I estimate that 75 percent of stylists don’t perform keratin treatment because of concerns about the smoke. Now imagine what would happen if there was no smoke?
manufacturers to encourage the use of our device, but we can’t expect them to imply that their own products are dangerous. Formula manufacturers are not going to say, “Use our keratin treatment, but you have to protect yourself because our treatments are poisonous.”
HSJ: There’s a difference; you are not saying stop keratin treatments altogether, you’re telling people, “Keep doing what you’re doing, we’re going to enhance the user experience and we’re going to make your product attractive to people who may have been hesitant to use it before.” Manufacturers ought to be delighted!
NJ: You’d think so, but remember, they’ve spent the last four years in a war telling OSHA and the FDA and governmental organizations that their products are not as dangerous as people claim they are.
HSJ: The personal care industry is seeing more devices and new
HSJ: If this market is so profitable, why hasn’t a larger company
technologies than ever before. People are investing in things like micro current devices and lasers, but these are all devices that generate income. FumeIron on the other hand is an expense; it’s more like an insurance policy. How can owners justify the cost?
with serious R&D resources come up with a safe product and called it something like, “Safe & Easy?”
NJ: We see it as an investment, not a cost. As I said earlier, it will allow them to offer profitable services that were previously off limits. It will actually grow their business. But if price is an obstacle, we also have an entry-level device, the FumeIron FXD that only costs $499. It’s a great choice for a small business or single operator. We felt an obligation to provide fume protection to every salon, big or small, so we went to work to create something they could afford. Our answer was the FXD model, which has a molded plastic casing and a smaller filter. It wouldn’t be the right choice for a high-volume salon because the filter would need to be replaced frequently, but it is perfect for a renter or individual stylist who only does 1 or 2 treatments a day or rents a chair at different salons and needs something that is light-weight and easy to carry around.
HSJ: How about creating a “safety” network that the public can identify? How about window stickers that say, “This is a fume-free salon?”
NJ: It’s funny that you mention that because sitting on my desktop right now is a draft of a window sticker just like that. It’s a 4”-by-8” decal that shows a graphic of the FumeIron with text, as you suggested, that says, “This is a fume-free salon” and, “We take safety precautions to meet OSHA standards by using the FumeIron.”
NJ: They’ve tried. They’re still trying. Hey, we’re all on the same side. We all want the consumer to get a great result but be safe in the process Let me give you a little bit more background, and it’s really important to understand this - after all these years, the industry has come to the realization that an effective Brazilian keratin treatment does not seem to be possible without some form of aldehyde being present, either when it’s heated or that changes into a type of aldehyde while it’s being heated because that’s what actually seals the hair. That’s why formaldehyde is used in things like melamine and fiberboard – it causes cellular and organic matter to bond together. Over the years, almost every major company has released formulas that have labels on them saying, “Formaldehyde-free,” “Organic,” et cetera, et cetera. But stylists quickly discovered that the ones that didn’t work were the ones that didn’t contain formaldehyde, but if they used something and it seemed to work, then it probably still contained some form of formaldehyde. So the unfortunate reality is they have yet to come up with an effective alternative. Even the mortuary industry, which has been trying to find an alternative for 50 years, can’t find anything that beats it. That’s why we think our FumeIron will become a common salon appliance like rubber gloves. It’s common sense. If you handle any kind of chemicals or apply dye, you need to create a barrier between you and the chemical. At some point, we believe the FumeIron will expand beyond the narrow category of keratin treatments into all procedures that release smoke or steam. HSJ: Brazilian treatment, why “Brazilian?” Why not Ecuadorian or Peruvian?
HSJ: If I wanted to check the condition of my swimming pool I can put a strip of paper in NJ: It’s an amazing story. It all revolves around synchronicity… like, where did they first invent the water and it changes color to tell me whether it’s safe or not. Is there a similar method to test the quality of the air in a salon?
NJ: Absolutely. When OSHA or a similar organization wants to test a workplace for volatile organic compounds, there are standard protocols that they follow. These procedures have existed for a long time. The easiest test would use monitoring badges, which work in the same way as the pool strips you mentioned. In this situation, employees would wear a monitoring badge and similar devices would be placed at different points within the salon. At the end of the test, the badges would be mailed to a lab for analysis. Their report would indicate the parts-per-million and safety rating of the different elements found in the workplace.
HSJ: If a cosmetologist is concerned about her working environment, how can she demonstrate to her boss that something needs to be done?
NJ: She needs to find out - and document - how safe her workplace really is… or isn’t. The best way is to get the monitoring badges we’ve been talking about and do a test. Maybe her area is already safe, based on the work she is doing. But if her instincts are right and action needs to be taken, she will have the ammunition to say, “Hey, boss, this place doesn’t meet acceptable standards, we need to take steps to improve it.” In this situation, installing a FumeIron would be a no-brainer. Why would any business owner put his livelihood at risk? Managers shouldn’t be wondering, “Does this release formaldehyde or some form of ethylene glycol?” They need to be focused on running the business. The FumeIron lets them do that.
HSJ: There is widespread concern about product safety in the beauty market. There is even an organization called safecosmetics.org. Who are the shakers and movers when it comes to product safety?
NJ: That’s a loaded question. When I talk about the keratin controversy, part of the problem is the fact that this isn’t just about the products; there are also disputes over the compounds themselves. This has resulted in lawsuits between the attorney general of California and the makers of one of the most popular brands. Because of all the claims and counterclaims, stylists and their customers are now going through what I call, “keratin fatigue” and no longer trust
coffee or alcohol or gun powder? About a decade ago, in a rural part of Brazil, there was this ethnic mix of people who had very kinky hair. In their tribe it became a big deal to straighten their hair and at some point, maybe even in a morgue or something, it was discovered that formaldehyde had the attribute of smoothing hair and making it appear healthier. So they started using it with primitive flat irons and it quickly became very popular. A lot of people don’t even know this story, but the news finally made its way into the major cities of Brazil where small manufacturers started packaging and marketing it. Business flourished and the product overtook Brazil and shortly thereafter, entered the United States via Florida. The two coasts quickly followed and the rest is history. Now the Br a z i l i a n K e r a t i n Tr e a t m e n t i s t h e number one product in Saudi Arabia. It works. It is everything people want – it just has to me made safe.
HSG: We wish you every success with this innovative, and important, product. And from the stylists and technicians whose lungs will be protected, a big Thank You!
Nick and Marzia Johnson
PBA Promotes Industry Safety and Growth The Professional Beauty Association (PBA) is tracking bills that could, if passed, greatly impact the beauty industry in many states. In the first quarter of 2013, 42 bills have been introduced that deal with occupational licensing, continued education, chemical bans and restrictions, and new service regulations. PBA hopes to build upon its
2012 progress by increasing state and federal legislative efforts, while continuing to raise awareness on important issues among beauty professionals and law makers. Current state bills range from deregulation, chemical bans and restrictions, continued education and new safety regulations.
PBA will continue to track and respond to both federal and state legislation in 2013 and years to come that affect the beauty industry, while keeping members and industry professionals informed on the issues affecting the growth and sustainability of the beauty industry. For more information on PBA’s government
advocacy and legislative goals, please visit http://www.probeauty.org/advocacy.
20 The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2013
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• The CNC® Hair Enhancement System - unlike any hair system product made today it utilizes advanced biologically compatible membrane base compounds and medical grade attachment techniques, dermatologically tested and compliesy with international GMP legislation 713/86. • The CNC® (Natural Contact Hair) Hair Enhancement System is the most effective non surgical solution to hair loss. • Invisible, thus, totally natural appearing. • Hypo-allergenic and antibacterial,; thus healthy for the hair and scalp. • Breathable and traction-resistant eveto in weather extremes, allowing the client to engage in normal water and high-impact sports activities. Allows total freedom in styling and coloring, including highlights. Especially applicable Suitable for both men and women who are not ideal candidates for hair transplants due to lack of sufficient donor hair requirements. Dermatologically tested & FDA-approved (FDA 513G). In the process of becoming the first Italian government-approved Class I medical device for hair loss.
CRLAB Trichology division
• Comprehensive Trichological testing utilizing proprietary CRL equipment designed to assess hair loss and detect scalp anomalies, such as dandruff and sebum problems • CRLAB Tricosil® product range has been designed under advanced, laboratory conditions to treat scalp anomalies and hair loss and boost growth.CRLab’s Tricosil® range has been designed to detect scalp anomalies, such as dandruff and sebum problems, in advanced laboratory conditions to combat hair lossand boost growth. ® • All CRLAB’s Tricosil range has been products have beenare made using advanced pharmaceutical-grade inhibitors designed to tackle 5-alphareductose - the enzyme responsible for triggering hair-loss inducing Dihydrotestosterone. • Tricosil® products are all produced in full compliance with manufacturing legislation (G.M.P.: Good Manufacturing Product) and existing cosmetic legislation (D.L. 126/97- L. 713/86). • The company uses only certified, pharmaceutical-grade raw materials and essential oils from carefully selected suppliers.
Now accepting reservations for free training at the company headquarters in Bologna for owners and staff members. Offer expires September 30, 2013. Contact John@cesareragazzi.com or at 1+ (407) 257 4776 for reservations and more information.
The CNC© System Means Living Life Without Compromise
21 The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2013
HOW ONE HAIR STUDIO IS CHANGING LIVES
THE NATIONAL HAIR & SKIN JOURNAL
MHN Hair Studio Hosts Women’s Hair Loss Seminar Flora Fuentes, Managing Director of MHN Hair Studio, recently held a special Women’s Hair Loss Seminar in New York City. The seminar focused on the science of hair and hair loss, its emotional toll, how to tell if hair loss is temporary or permanent and most importantly, the solutions available. Hair loss affects over thirty million women in the U.S. and most do not know where to turn. Women’s hair loss is far more complex than men’s hair loss and hormones as well as other factors may be to blame. Thirtyfive women signed up for the most recent seminar, in hopes of gaining information on their hair loss concerns. These ladies came with open minds and lots of questions!
Kayla Martell
challenge stop her from becoming the 2010 ‘Miss Delaware’ or a top finalist in the 2011 ‘Miss America Pageant.’ Martell’s attended the seminar to deliver a message of hope, “Even in moments of sheer frustration, there is always hope for a better day. Hair loss does not have to be the end of your life as you know it. You don’t have to throw in the towel on dating, your social life or on your career. In 2013 we have options! Women are continuing with their lives, with and without hair- just as I have! The days of feeling forced to order an ugly, uncomfortable wig from a catalog are gone! You have the ability to look like the ‘you’ you see in your head. You can look in the mirror again and feel beautiful.” Flora
Flora Fuentes
There are solutions: Opening the seminar, Flora Fuentes told guests, “We want women everywhere who are experiencing thinning hair, or any level of hair loss, to know that no matter what their level of hair loss – there is a solution. You can have your hair back, beautifully and naturally!” Dr. Mollura, a hair transplant surgeon who has performed nearly five thousand hair transplant procedures then explained the causes of female hair loss and the various diagnoses that may have been given. He clarified different symptoms and conditions and answered guest’s questions about their own symptoms. He was followed by two women who shared their personal stories of hair loss and how they came to accept their condition and the changes it brought to their lives.
Rhonda McCarthy
Fuentes and the Women’s Seminar team then provided a free scalp analysis to every guest to help clarify their own type of hair loss and to identify their best solution. By the end of the evening, everyone agreed that this was a very valuable event that needed to be repeated in towns big and small across the country. Leaders and pioneers: MHN Hair Studio is an industry leader in hair replacement and restoration, helping to solve all types of hair loss problems for over 40 years. TV and radio news talk shows have relied on MHN Hair Studio’s expertise for years. Their specialists have successfully helped support and satisfy thousands of hair loss clients. One client commented, “A friend of mine then told me that MHN might be a solution for me. So I did a thorough search on what was available
hope for me. Within a few months, I did what I needed to do to get that hair replacement system, which looked exactly like my real hair, used to look. Needless to say I’ve been going there ever since. It’s been over two years that I’ve been using this new system and I feel like my youth and my life have been restored. I forget most of the time that this isn’t my real hair! I live my life with no hesitation or cares about hiding my scalp or having insecurities about my hair.” With feedback like this, Flora and the rest of the staff at MHN are making a real difference in the lives of many women. Founder and President Michelle Cipriano actively works with Flora Fuentes to partner with Kayla Martell and the national Women’s Hair Loss Seminar team to help women who are experiencing hair loss. Thirty million strong: Rhonda McCarthy, a nationally recognized expert in women’s hair replacement and National Program Director for the Women’s Hair Loss Seminars, was also in attendance and spoke to the group about the reputable solutions available as well as scams to watch out for. Rhonda McCarthy shares, “So many women feel there is nowhere to turn, but they do think about their hair loss challenges. We are a sisterhood of 30 million and we need to talk Before A
After A
Support from Kayla Martell: At only eleven years old, Kayla Martell began to lose her hair due to alopecia, but she did not let this
‹ Continued from Page 6
Hayden plans to continue to enhance the quality of her clients’ experiences, helping them to feel safe and cared for. She is still an education junkie, now completing advanced training in holistic health, aromatherapy and herbology with plans to become a natural health practitioner. She shares, “I want to be a voice, an ambassador to the hair loss industry
and made my appointment to see Flora at MHN. I literally left there feeling like a huge weight had been lifted and there was actually
and help other stylists to also advance their careers.” Hayden is currently a spokesperson for the National Hair Society, the treasurer for the Beauty Culture League of San Antonio, represented in the inaugural edition of Black San Antonio Who’s Who, and she works with the Look Good, Feel Better program for the National Cancer Society. Her latest achievements are being named Hair Loss
EDITOR IN CHIEF Christopher Webb cwebb@nationalhairjournal.com LEGAL ADVISOR Joel Morgenthau TECHNICAL ADVISORS Isaac Brakha Dr. Shelley Friedman Larry Oskin/ Maryla Fraser CONTRIBUTING CORRESPONDENTS James Toscano Bobbi Russell Mark Deo Toni Love Steven Dimanni, Editor Emeritus Marilyn Wayne EUROPEAN DIRECTOR Hans Diks EDITORIAL POLICY The National Hair & Skin Journal is 100% independent and is not beholden to, or influenced by, any individual investor, manufacturer or other commercial interest. The Journal does not pay for the use of submitted material but it will give credit to contributors. Wherever possible, we encourage writers not to include company or brand names unless they are necessary for a more complete understanding of the article. The National Hair & Skin Journal works hard to ensure that all published material is objective, fair and courteous. It reserves the right to edit material it deems to be overly commercial or that unnecessarily denigrates a competitor. The National Hair & Skin Journal has a history of profiling prominent personalities in the hair-management industry. These interviews are based upon the prominence of the candidate and requests by Journal readers. Interviewees do not pay to be profiled and there is no commercial relationship between interviewees and their advertising. ADVERTISING To place an advertisement or request a Media Kit, contact us at advertising@nationalhairjournal.com or call 626-709-6397 SUBSCRIPTIONS To subscribe, visit www.nhjsubs.com or write subscriptions@nationalhairjournal.com.
Before B
After B
about it. We are committed to making this a very uplifting and educational experience. Any woman dealing with hair loss should know what options she has and that she is not alone! During these Women’s Hair Loss Seminars, women will have the opportunity to talk openly about their hair loss, become educated on hair loss options and to meet other women experiencing the same challenges.”
Kayla Martell Speaking at the Women’s Hair Loss Seminar
The National Hair & Skin Journal was founded in 1997 as a business resource for salon and clinic owners. Its mission is to provide hair-management professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will help them provide superior service to their patients. It is a full-color tabloid, published quarterly and distributed worldwide.
You too can host a women’s hair loss seminar: If you are a Gemtress affiliated hair replacement salon, wig studio or hair loss center that wants to help host a Women’s Hair Loss Seminar in your city, contact Rhonda McCarthy at Gemtress. Call 954-661-3855 EXT: 3340 or email RMcCarthy@OnRite.com. For more information on the Women’s hair Loss Seminars in New York City, call MHN Hair Studios at 212-832-0707 and visit www.MHNHairStudio.com.
Control Clinic’s Ethnic Hair Loss Expert and receiving a Lifetime Achievement Award in 2012 for involvement in her local community. For more information visit www.XTC-Hair. com or www.HLCConline.com. The Hair Management Group is located at 13214 Huebner Road, San Antonio, TX 78230. Call 210-5583222 or visit www.andreahayden.com.
LEGAL NOTICE The views expressed in The National Hair & Skin Journal are those of the individual author or contributor and not those of The National Hair & Skin Journal, its editors or staff. The Journal’s contents reflect the opinions of the authors and are not analyzed, peer-reviewed or otherwise investigated before publication. All authors and contributors are asked to disclose any interests they have of a commercial nature. The National Hair & Skin Journal makes no attempt to validate the sufficiency of such disclosures and makes no warranty, guarantee or other representation, expressed or implied, with respect to the accuracy or sufficiency of any information provided. The publication of an advertisement does not constitute on the part of The National Hair & Skin Journal a guarantee or endorsement of the quality or value of the advertised product or service or any of the representations or claims made by the advertiser. The National Hair & Skin Journal accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All articles and letters become the property of The National Hair & Skin Journal and may be edited for clarity, presentation and space. By allowing your articles, interviews and personal commentary to be used in The National Hair & Skin Journal, you are giving the publication permission to use these materials in its pages, website and other information materials. Advertisers are required to sign a formal advertising agreement indicating that they are not violating any trademarks or other intellectual properties. Full details are outlined in The National Hair & Skin Journal Media Kit. COPYRIGHT The material published in The National Hair & Skin Journal is copyrighted and may not be utilized in any form without the written consent of the editor. THE NATIONAL HAIR & SKIN JOURNAL 39252 Winchester Road, #107-383 Murrieta, CA 92563 Tel: 626-709-6397 Info@NationalHairJournal.com Printed in USA
22  The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2013
23 The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2013
Hair
and
Skin Society News www.hairskinsociety.org
Angela Robinson
shares her experience with the quality of European hair:
From The Boardroom
Board Members: Lisa Zimmerman, President National Hair Centers, Phoenix, AZ, Bobbi Russell, Hair Therapy For Women, FL, Lucinda Beaty – Owner Lucinda’s Hair, Jim Toscano “The General”, Toscano’s Hair Consultants, PA.
Welcome To The Spring 2013 Society Page – It was great to see many
Society members at the Cyberworld Conference in Altanta, GA. The hotel where the conference took place was great and the Cyber Award Dinner night was a lot of fun. The Society provided a live demonstration of the micro-current device that The Society promotes through its’ Skin Rejuvenation Program. Cathie Fennell, our East Coast Trainer from Atlanta, GA was there to answer questions and provide the demonstration. If you are interested in seeing a demonstration, please contact me at hsimon@nationalhairjournal.com and by phone at 619-928-9750.
Skin Rejuvenation Program – The hair replacement and hair restoration market is looking for expansion opportunities and new profit centers. One company that continues to impress us is Neurotris, a bio-engineering group based in Southern California that has developed a skin rejuvenation device, the SX 3500 that delivers immediate and demonstrable skin tone benefits using Micro-current technology. Microcurrent has existed since the late 70’s, but the latest generation of Micro and Pico current devices from Neurotris offers dramatically improved performance at an affordable price. Not only is the benefit visible right away, the income potential is substantial. A center servicing 100 clients could gross $225,000 a year or more. For further information, please contact me at 619-928-9750 and visit the Hair Society website at www. hairskinsociety.org. Once you have taken a look at the information, I can provide more details about how to see a live demo, how to purchase the device and get trained.
Online Store Coming Soon – Society members and professionals within the hair and beauty industry will now have the opportunity to find quality products through an online shopping site being created at the request of The National Society of Hair & Skin Rejuvenation. This will be an independent shopping site for professionals to buy high quality products. This shopping site is independent of The National Hair and Skin Journal but brings the latest products and information to the website. The site will bring cutting edge news, technology and new products. The Society, over the years, has been helping people network, and is now providing a marketplace for hair and skin professionals. More announcements about this will be coming soon. If you are interested in putting your products or information on our online store, please contact me at hsimon@nationalhairjournal.com or 619-928-9750.
Hello National Hair and Skin Journal, I want to share a recent experience of ordering European hair… A few weeks ago one of my regular clients ordered her normal hair unit, which was a standard human hairpiece. There was a mix up at the factory in her favor, and she received a European hair unit. Immediately, upon pulling the hair out of the packaging there was a striking difference in the quality of the hair, so I called to verify the type of hair we received. The associate proceeded to explain the error that had occurred in the distribution, and fortunately for us, my customer was able to benefit from an exceptional hair unit. However, as a salon owner, I benefited as well—because my generally frugal customer came in on her next visit and insisted on a European hair unit, saying she could never go back. I now have a lifetime European hair customer. As a standard practice now, I offer my women clients the option of trying a European hair unit at the same price as a standard human hair unit. Not a single client has gone back; they have all taken the upgrade and will pay the extra expense of the European hair. This series of events is a great illustration of how the quality of the European hair sells itself, and that if your customers are able to see and feel the difference, they will most definitely be European hair wearers for life, too! Please visit Angela Robinson’s website at www. adrcreativehair.com.
Society Member Profile Of The Quarter – Many of you may remember that I used to interview Society members about their businesses and feature them on The Society page of The Journal. Well, as many of you have requested, I’m going to do it again. The new profiles will be similar, but will point out your achievements and share your tips for success with other Society members. I will also be sending out an e-mail blast profiling the Society member and their business. For more information, please feel free to contact me at hsimon@nationalhairjournal.com or by phone at 619-928-9750.
Heather Simon
Client Service Director
About The National Society of Hair & Skin Rejuvenation: The Society was created at the request of forward-looking anti-aging specialists to help them find the information, products and educational resources they need to grow their business. Our goal is to provide the professional connections and support that it is difficult for an individual operator to find on his or her own. The Society brings together professionals from all parts of the personal care industry to promote new relationships and cross-marketing opportunities. It also partners with The National Hair & Skin Journal to provide information and educational services. www.hairskinsociety.org * Translation of Latin motto, “Get In to Get On.”
Appearances Cosmetic Therapy Salon For Sale, Owner Peg Allen To Retire Appearances Cosmetic Therapy Salon located in Winooski, VT is owned by Peg Allen. Peg has been in the hair replacement industry for 29 years. Recently she contacted The National Hair And Skin Journal because she wants to sell her business so she can retire. She received her hair management training from International Hair Goods and trained with Jeffrey Paul in Ohio to become a certified cosmetic therapist
in Vermont. In 1994, she was Vermont Business Woman of the year. Peg has received many awards throughout the years including a Salon Excellence award from Redken, a Sunrise award from the Look Good Feel Better Program, a Community Service Award from the American Hair Loss Council and a Sandra C. Labaree Award from the American Cancer Society. Peg Allen’s Salon offers hair replacement services, laser therapy, skin care, and retails hair and skin products and head coverings. Her clientele is 80% women and 20% men. The salon predominantly deals with women with cancer, as well as women and men with alopecia and some fashion and theater clients. The salon is approximately,
1,600 square feet: one room with retails products, one with hair prosthetics, one for working with clients, one for cleansing, one for styling, plus a full basement where Internet orders are fulfilled. There is private off-street parking, front and back entrances, and on-street parking. The types of marketing strategies that have worked for Peg over the years has been extensive networking in the community, with local and regional hospitals, oncologists and health professionals. She has active membership in many organizations such as the Chamber of Commerce, Business and Professional Women, American Cancer Society, and participating several times a year in business expos. Currently, her challenge
at the moment is to find someone to take over the salon. If you would like more information, please visit the website at www. appearancessalon.com and please contact Peg Allen by e-mail at appearances@aol.com.
24 The National Hair Journal Spring/Summer 2013
2013
THE INDUSTRY’S BUSINESS BOOSTER EVENT
www.niulive.com
OCTOBER 19–20, 2013 /
Marriot Hotel, West Palm Beach, FL
Experience hair loss education as never before
Join us on a virtual, eye-opening journey of the ultimate client experience
Learn all about hair and the latest technical trends
Grow your network
Boost your business
Two days that could change the course of your business forever!
FOR ONLY $198/PERSON OR $178 FOR ADDITIONAL ATTENDEES FROM THE SAME STUDIO Special conference room rate at the Marriott Hotel is $119 (plus 11% sales tax) for a standard room, double and single occupancy. For room reservations, please contact the Marriott Hotel directly at 1-800-228-9290.
Limited seating. For more information and to register
1.800.359.4247 / niulive.com NewImageLabs.com | NewImageUniversity.com | Connect with New Image University
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