1 The National Hair Journal Summer 2013
Marketing Hair Club – What Next? Aderans top execs look to the future
Page 24
Technology Lasers Heat Up Don’t miss the boat
Page 16
Medical
Hair Replacement
Training the Doctors
Discover the Tapes
ISHRS President is committed to education
Meet Shane Stott, CEO Walker Tape
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Page 4
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Volume 16 No 66
Too Much Hair? Gillette wants you to think so.
Shaving your face is not enough for Gillette. Now the company is trying to persuade men that body hair has to go too! Ever since Gillette introduced the first safety razor in 1904, the company has dominated the shaving market. It was one of the first companies to understand that the profit was in the blades and not in the device. The North American men’s grooming market continues to grow and is expected to reach $5.8 billion in 2016 according to Euromonitor International. But even as the shaving market expands, it seems this is not enough to satisfy Procter & Gamble, the owners of Gillette. Even though they have 42% market share of the shaving market they are now aggressively seeking to expand from there into whole body grooming. What is their strategy? Simple. By convincing men that their girlfriends prefer a hairless body. The following advertisement in Esq. magazine illustrates this with a headline, “How does Hannah Simón like her man’s body styles?” To drive the message home, Gillette hired Kate Upton, voted the sexiest woman on earth! In a series of print ads and YouTube videos, Kate makes it clear that she prefers men who “body groom” and says that is up to women to guide their men. If Gillette can “boldly go where no blade has gone before” to create a new (profitable) market, surely there is still good business to be had maintaining or replacing hair where it should be – on top of the head!
The Professional Publication of Hair and Skin Rejuvenation
Cosmoprof 2013
Record attendance, exciting exhibits. Special report Pg. 12-13.
Photo Credit: Stormie Roberts
Who will you go bald for?
‘Be Bold, Be Bald!’ unites nation in fight against cancer Boston, MA - On October 18th 2013, ‘Be Bold, Be Bald!’ dares to ask Americans, “Who will you go bald for?” The fifth annual event, taking place on October 18th encourages people from all over the country to “go bald,” sporting a bald cap in a show of solidarity for those who don’t have a choice in losing their hair. Similar to a bike ride or road race, participants will encourage friends and family to sponsor them to go bald. To date, the event has raised more than $600,000 for more than 40 organizations, with approximately 10,000 participants across the United States. Organizations participating in the event range from small local groups to national brands such as the Dana Farber Cancer Institute, Livestrong, Prostate Cancer Foundation, the Leukemia and Lymphoma Society and Susan Love Research Foundation. Be Bold, Be Bald! was founded in honor of the late Mike Connell, co-founder and former Creative Principal of Boston-based advertising agency Small Army, in 2009 by friend and business partner, Jeff Freedman. Mike lost his third battle with cancer after a heroic two-year fight in 2007, leaving behind a wife and three children.
FDA Clears Another Laser Theradome launches LH80 SILICON VALLEY, CA - “Theradome”, a medical device company, has launched a new laser helmet to treat hair loss. Recently cleared by the FDA, the LH80 will initially be made
available on Indiegogo, a global crowdfunding platform. Theradome clinical trials indicated improved hair growth in 98 percent of patients and an increase in hair thickness, volume and density of 200% among users within six weeks. Theradome is committed to bringing therapies previously only available in a clinical setting into the home.
Summer 2013
Hair Club Offers Eyebrow Restoration
Boca Raton - Over 25 years ago, Hair Club catapulted “hairpieces” and “toupees” into the new world of “hair systems” and ”strandby-strand” technology. A few years later, it added hair replacement services for women and then help for children with hair loss. Medical hair restoration followed shortly thereafter as Hair Club moved with the times and cosmetic surgery began to take off. Today, Hair Club also offers eyebrow restoration as it begins to target the lucrative beauty market. As Hair Club states on its website, “Eyebrows
are an important part of the facial anatomy and oftentimes enhance someone’s personal appearance. So when a person’s eyebrows are thinner than they would like, or are simply absent from the face, he/she may feel selfconscious and even embarrassed.” Clients who qualify for this procedure meet with a Hair Club® board certified doctor specializing in hair transplants to discuss the desired eyebrow length, thickness, arch, and shape, to complement their facial structure.
New Image Does Lunch
Another Propecia Lawsuit
West Palm Beach, FL/ 09/13 - New Image Labs Corporation continues its partnership with Bald Girls Do Lunch, a nation-wide charitable organization empowering women with alopecia. The scope of the partnership ranges from support of various networking functions to conducting joint events, from providing resources to women with alopecia to educating the public as well as the hair replacement industry about this autoimmune hair loss disorder. Nearly 2% of the US population has a lifetime risk of developing the disorder, which affects males and females equally. “Even though alopecia areata is well known in the hair replacement industry, there is still much to be learned about the disorder, the real needs of women with alopecia and how to strengthen them to lead happy and successful lives,” says Tony Sciara, President of New Image Labs.
New Jersey - A new Propecia injury lawsuit has been filed in U.S. District Court. In the complaint, the plaintiff alleges he continues to suffer from sexual dysfunction, depression and cognitive impairment since using the hair loss medication a number of years ago. The plaintiff states that as a result of his Propecia use, he has suffered “severe and debilitating injuries, pain and suffering, economic loss and other damages.” He lists a number of counts against Merck in his lawsuit, including strict liability, negligence, breach of warranty, fraud, and unfair and deceptive trade practices. The plaintiff ’s wife is also seeking damages in the complaint, alleging her husband’s injuries have led to her “loss of his services and companionship” The plaintiffs are seeking compensatory, special, punitive, exemplary, double, and triple damages from Merck.
OnRite Supports Breast Cancer Awareness Month Ft. Lauderdale, FL. 09/13 - Breast Cancer Awareness Month is celebrated in October of each year to raise awareness for the disease that will affect approximately one in every eight U.S.-born women in their lifetimes. To show their support, OnRite is offering free pink wristbands to Gemtress and UltraTress customers for every $300 order.
Getting on the Bandwagon
Hair Growth Composition Receives US Patent San Diego, CA - Histogen, Inc., a regenerative medicine company developing therapies based on the products of cells grown under simulated embryonic conditions, has announced that the United States Patent & Trademark Office has issued patent 8,535,913, entitled “Soluble Composition for Promoting Hair Growth Produced by Hypoxic Culture of Fibroblast Cells”. Histogen’s “Hair Stimulating Complex” (HSC), covered by this new patent, is in clinical development as an injectable treatment for male pattern and female diffuse hair loss. Two company-sponsored clinical trials, HSC have resulted in statistically significant increases in hair count, density and thickness. In addition, the treatment has shown efficacy in difficult-to-treat patient groups, including women, older subjects and those with temporal recession region hair loss.
Women Rising Throughout the next decade, women will be the beneficiaries of the largest transference of wealth in the history of the United States and control two thirds of consumer wealth in the country. Women are now the majority of the workforce in the U.S. and fill the majority of managerial positions. For every two men who earn a college degree, three women will get theirs.
2  The National Hair Journal Summer 2013
3 The National Hair Journal Summer 2013
From
the
Be the Man Your Dog Thinks You Are: This is one of the most humbling and challenging headlines I have ever read. I think I came across it in Men’s Health Magazine and it has haunted me ever since. Pets trust you to take care of them. They think you always know best. And you have access to things they don’t understand. Sound familiar? Well, clients may not be as forgiving as pets, and they may not always be as nice, but they have the same expectations. Hair loss can be socially crippling. Getting it back can be a life changer. So live up to their expectations. Get the best education, go to shows and yes, study this newspaper to stay current. Be the professional your clients think you are! Safety On A Roll: The Journal devoted a major part of its last issue to product safety. We profiled several companies that were spearheading the move towards safe, all-natural products, so it was with pleasure that we read a press release from the PR company for PRAVANA Inc which included the following footnote: All NEVO products are 100% biodegradable, 100% vegan and free of Sulfates, Parabens, Sodium Chloride, Phthalates, Gluten, Propylene Glycol, Cocamide DEA, Cocamide MEA, animal bi-products and animal testing. Light Therapy Comes of Age: Low-level laser light therapy is all over the news! Exciting new clinical data is being presented to the FDA and sophisticated new designs offer convenience, portability and high performance. There are models for every professional and consumer need and just last week a new product, the Theradome, was launched from, where else, Silicon Valley. People who don’t know this market might claim that it’s getting crowded, but the reality is the potential remains so huge that there is room for everyone. The challenge is not getting a bigger
To
the
Dear Editor, I read with interest your article featuring Andrea Hayden and am delighted that the science of trichology is getting so much attention. However, I was dismayed that your editorial team didn’t pick up on the incorrect remark at the end of the first paragraph regarding the International Association of Trichologists being, “...the only globally recognized trichology association.” I cannot speak for the two trichology institutes/societies based in England (one of which is over a 100 years old), however, as President, I can speak for the World Trichology Society (WTS) based here in the USA. We have members and students from all around the globe, offer an excellent online course, and are associated with Huntington College where we oversee the world’s FIRST accredited post-graduate degree (the information on this was sent out as an email ‘buzz’ by your organization only a few weeks ago). Furthermore certain multinational industries have used our expertise in their product development.Additionally, in what I perceive as another error in this article, Ms. Hayden stated that she is a ‘professional trichologist’ yet is still a student of the IAT. Surely, she could only be one or the other? Sincerely, Dr. David H. Kingsley, PhD, WTS, LTTS Dear Editor, We live in exciting times- between the consolidation of major players in our field under Aderans, the incorporation of ARTAS, and what seems to be significant growth in women having procedures- it all makes for interesting material to hear about in the NHJ.
Editor slice of the pie, but creating the pie itself. Lasers work and lasers can provide solutions for people denied access to other therapies. Clients can now choose between medical hood lasers, portable helmet lasers with integrated sound systems and even baseball cap configurations that you can wear anywhere. More choices and more media “noise” can only help to grow this important market.
While there are many ineffective products that fail to deliver successful results, Laser Hair Therapy is being hailed as a life-changing female hair loss treatment. HairConsultant.com has produced this “infographic” to illustrate the available options to women suffering from hair loss. Acceptance/Coping - Support groups, community chapters, online forums and counseling may serve as a reassuring outlet for women who are seeking support.
In this issue: We were late getting our last issue out the door because we wanted to provide a full report on one of the most important developments in the hair market in recent years. We are talking, of course, about Aderans buying Hair Club from Regis. At the time, we promised a full report in our next issue and that is what we bring you today. The Journal met with the chairman of the hedge fund that encouraged Aderans to restructure in order to provide a more focused and more comprehensive portfolio of hair loss solutions. We also talked with the president of Aderans, North America, who also happens to be the president of Bosley and now Hair Club as well. You will find their comments about the rationale behind this acquisition and their plans for the future on page 10. And as always, you will also find other valuable insights from industry leaders like Dr. Carlos Puig, President ISHRS, Jeff Braile, President Apira Science Medical Division, makers of the successful Igrow laser and Shane Stott, CEO of Walker Tape. We hope you are having a wonderful summer and thank you for your support and readership. Chris Webb, Editor in Chief
Editor As I just passed my 20th year in the hair field, I have developed a special perspective and now, with what has turned out fortunately to be a successful career, I can observe the goings-on without much personal bias (or aggravation or worry). I wanted to provide a suggestion that I give to any male patient planning on stopping Propecia- I recommend they initiate laser light therapy several months ahead of time (I like the LaserCap system best), then slowly taper the Propecia starting 2 months later. Seems to work well in preventing that post-cessation shedding in many patients. Sincerely, Jeffrey S. Epstein, MD, FACS Assistant Clinical Professor, University of Miami, Board Certified, Facial Plastic Surgery, Hair Restoration, and Otolaryngology Dear Editor, I am currently going to school with The World Trichology School from Dr. Kingsley. I have only 6 chapters remaining out of 28 and will be going to New York in October for 7 days clinical study’s with Dr. Kingsley. After 35 years of hairdressing and 9 years in hair loss I can’t begin to tell you how much I have learned. Now I have the answers I have been looking for and can respectfully help my clients, educate them in facts and myths. I cannot wait until I can call myself a certified Trichologist and start my new practice. Sincerely, Patti Wood Off 5th Avenue Salon & Hair Replacement, Sarasota, FL
Alternative Treatments - Currently, there are three hair loss supplements approved by the FDA. 7% of patients reportedly suffered a negative reaction when receiving one or more of these treatments. Camouflage - Within the U.S. 75% of all faux-hair products are sold to women. Hair Transplantation - There are some rather frightening risks associated with this method including scarring, postoperative infection, excessive bleeding, delayed healing and damaged hair follicles. Laser Hair Therapy - An effective women’s hair loss treatment option has emerged in recent years and is quickly gaining attention with it’s estimated 94.4% success rate!
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4 The National Hair Journal Summer 2013
Hair Replacement
The Kings of Tape Walker Tape is an industry icon in the adhesive tape market, but not many people know its colorful history. The company is committed to expansion in 2013 and to find out more about its plans, The Journal sat down with Shane Stott, CEO and part owner of the company.
HSJ: What makes a superior tape? SS: First off, you got to source the right base. Then there’s the blend of adhesives that is used to coat the tape. Once you find that magic mixture of adhesives, then it comes down to questions like, “Is it flexible?” “How well is it cut?” “How well is it rolled and packaged?”
But the key to everything is the special blend of acrylic adhesives.
HSJ: Who does that? SS: We have a bunch of people – my uncle,
Shane Stott - CEO of Walker Tape Co.
Hair & Skin Journal: When we were talking earlier, you used the phrase, “The kings of tape.” Why are you “Kings of tape”? Shane Stott: It goes back some time. My grandpa was a machinist and back in the ‘60s he got into wigs and hairpieces with his brother and together they started a hair company called “Lifelike.” My grandpa built the custom machinery to manufacture the wigs and his brother took care of the clients. But as we entered the ‘80’s, the competition became tougher and a lot of the hair business went to China. As a result, he decided to diversify into tapes and adhesives. But they weren’t just any tapes and adhesives, they were products created with special machines that my grandpa designed. So to get back to your question about “Kings of tape,” we see ourselves as a different kind of tape company because our sophisticated equipment sets us apart. Our roll and contour machines are all custom made from scratch by my grandfather. His designs make beautiful tape products and they make us much more efficient than our competitors.
my grandfather and a family friend who is one of the owners. We’re all heavily into tape and we have close connections with chemists and technicians around the world. We work with them to research and develop our proprietary formulas. Once we are satisfied with the adhesives, we bring in jumbo logs and convert them down to tapes, rolls, contours, and other die cuts.
user? Then, there is the issue of how long the product continues to stick and how it stands up to different climatic conditions. SS: As you say, there are many criteria for ranking an adhesive. You can test a bond with a simple “pull” test, but we find the best way is regular hands-on testing. After we’ve run a product prototype through some initial technical specs and know it could be a winner, we send it out to a panel of testers and ask for their feedback. We examine how it responds to humidity, sweat pH levels, movement, water – you name it. The product has to be able to go the distance in real life.
HSJ: What are the different categories of tape? SS: We separate them in our brochure three different ways; daily wear, extended wear, which is usually one to two-weeks, and permanent wear, which is two weeks or more. Most of
HSJ: What are the characteristics of a good attachment? Obviously, adhesion comes first, but how important is safety to the end
who is trying to decide between a liquid-bond or using tape? SS: I would say check out the most popular lines. See what is working for others first. Try the Lace Front. Try the Ultra Hold Tape, and then go into the liquids. Try the Ultra Hold liquid glue. Try the Safe Grip, which is water-based. As for professional stylists, they all have their own preferences and it’s hard for us to change them. Once a stylist gets comfortable with her way of bonding, say it’s tape in the front and liquid in the back, or full tape or full liquid, it’s hard to convert them to something different.
HSJ: Professional hair products are now 1 Christmas at Walker -Left to right Brian Bonham, Kerry Radford, Marcile Bonham, and Brent Bonham.
our permanent wear clients can get an easy two weeks from our tapes, but we hear of them going for five or six weeks. Permanent wear tapes are our most popular product.
HSJ: What is the difference in formulation or characteristics between a permanent-wear tape and a temporary tape? SS: That’s a good question. It’s mostly a question of the coat weight, meaning the amount of adhesive applied. When a tape is being produced, they spray the adhesive onto the carrier. The bonding properties depend on
Panorama of Walker buildings
growing pains... stop pulling your hair out!
being offered for sale direct to the public by companies like Hair Direct. Do you see more people buying hair online then coming to you for styling aids or attachment products they can use at home? SS: We are wholesale only so you have to be in business to buy from us, but yes, we used to have only stylists, now there is a mix of professionals and online retailers. There are more people offering hair systems online and showing men and women how to style and attach them at home themselves. So people buy a hair system online, bond it, learn how to care for it, and then go into a regular Supercuts to get their haircut. It’s a new way of doing things and it seems very popular. People love the privacy and convenience of being able to stay home and manage their hair system without going out to a stylist every time.
The cosmetic tape market is not big enough for the industrial machine manufacturers to go after, so my grandfather designed the equipment himself. It’s perfect for our needs and it really sets us apart. It has given us a competitive advantage.
HSJ: You talked earlier about the unique
capilia.com
equipment that was designed by your family. Why are those machines different? And what makes them special? SS: Most of the industrial machines like the Judelshon Slitter and the Cameron Slitter are designed for big master rolls, big cuts, high production runs. The difference between those high volume machines and what my grandfather created is the fact that our production is tailored to our industry. Our machines are designed to make smaller rolls, small die cuts, and small shapes. The cosmetic tape market is not big enough for the industrial machine manufacturers to go after, so my grandfather designed the equipment himself.
for more information on how you can grow your business
HSJ: German engineers excel in manufacturing
sam donofrio, president | 1 866-922-7454 | samdonofrio@capilia.ca suzanne donofrio, vp communications | 1 866-922-7454 | suzannedonofrio@capilia.ca leigh gardner, senior representative | 954-661-5503 | leighgardner@novera.ca capilia.com
technology, whether it’s a printing press or any other kind of industrial equipment. Are you telling me that this is not the case in the world of tape?
we have real solutions to help you grow your business Capilia is a one-stop shop for hairloss sufferers, offering real and effective hair loss solutions throughout its 33 centers across North America. We are currently looking for skillfull business owners that would benefit from top advertising material, unique marketing tools and advanced training to grow their hair replacement business.
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HSJ: What advice would you give a client
st
HSJ: What is happening in the world of hair attachment? Is bonding the future or is tape the future? SS: We saw a boom in liquid adhesives two years ago, but there were concerns about product shipping safety and the authorities began cracking down on the international shipments of flammables. As a result, tape usage has been expanding worldwide and people are now discovering how easy tape is to use.
how much they actually spray on. For instance, we have a Lace Front and a Lace Front Thin, and the only difference between those tapes is the coat weight. The difference in thickness of those tapes is due to the adhesive. When you use the stronger product, it’s like applying more liquid, but in a tape form.
5 The National Hair Journal Summer 2013
Jose using Brent’s tape machine.
SS: In large-scale industrial production, And then there’s, Gary Wismar, a friend of German machinery is legendary, but they are geared towards mass production. Ours are designed for shorter runs with a quick changeover to different products.
HSJ: Why should a salon owner come to Walker Tape? SS: We focus on taking care of people. We’ve been around since ‘85 and I can safely say that our customers are happy with the relationship. We’ve had people tell us, “This product dried up and we opened it six months ago,” and we’ve replaced it. We will do anything we can to make a customer happy. Check us out online. Read about what people have experienced with us. Our record speaks for itself. It sets us apart. We ship fast. We ship the highest-quality product, and we make great products.
HSJ: Is this still a family-run business? SS: Yes, it is. My grandfather still works here. He’s 82 and he comes in daily to oversee his machines. He’s here right now.
My mother handles
the family, who runs the business, the money, the pricing, the accounting, the day-to-day management. So we have this great team of family and friends. Sometimes, running a family business can be hard, but we’ve lucked out with ours.
HSJ: Gary Wismar visited The Journal here in California many years ago and we had a long discussion about the hair replacement market, then you appeared to slide under radar. Did the company’s focus shift for a while into other fields?
SS: We may have lost some market visibility over the last ten years or so, but we’re in the process of changing that. We now have two websites, WalkerTapeCo.com which focuses on wigs, and HairExtensionTape.com, which focuses on our new venture, hair extension tape. We’ve just set up a studio upstairs in our office this year and we’re demo-ing our products and interviewing customers. We realize we’re the leader in tape, so we’re going to start acting that way.
outside sales. Her name’s Diane Bonham. She’s the one who keeps up with our bigger clients and sets up new industries –
HSJ: When you say you are the ‘leader,’ what percentage of the tape market do you represent? Our new Mini’s - now available in most tapes
that sort of thing. My uncle develops new products. He’s a tape specialist, and he knows so much about so many tapes.
SS: I don’t know the numbers and industry sales statistics are hard to come by, but judging by online availability we seem to be the dominant supplier.
My grandfather still works here. He’s 82 and he comes in daily to oversee his machines. He’s here right now.
HSJ: Do you do comparison testing of your tapes versus the competition? SS: That’s a good question, too. All I will say is stylists and customers tell us our product is higher quality. We still hand wrap our tape rolls and customers say, “I can charge a little more
Brent Bonham creating tape machines. Continued on Page 6 ›
6 The National Hair Journal Summer 2013
‹ Continued from Page 5
In the Walker conference room
for your roll because it looks so much better.” So the feedback is very rewarding.
HSJ: Are there any new products in the pipeline? SS: We’ve recently learned how to format our tapes as mini tabs. If you’re familiar with our minis that are positioned side by side on a strip and available in Ultra Hold Tape, we are now bringing out blue, red, clear, Pro-Flex – you name it. Soon we will have all of our tapes available in minis. It’s a really handy shape to work with. We’re going to be the first company that offers all its tapes in minis and we’re really excited about that. We’ve also improved Extenda-Bond, look for Extenda-Bond Plus to start popping up. We’re really focusing on new products this year, more than any other.
HSJ: Do customers sometimes request custom
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tape shapes or sizes? SS: Yes. That happens a lot. We do a lot of custom converting, so we get a lot of people, especially from overseas, who need a tape tab to match a certain hair design, hair extension or wig shape. We’re very interested in custom projects. If the numbers are right, we can produce the perfect product. See more at WalkerTapeConverting.com
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about certain adhesives that contain dangerous chemicals. What steps do you take to make sure your own tapes are safe? SS: We understand the way the industry feels about solvent-based glues and tapes. Any chemicals in our tapes are present at such a negligible level that this simply hasn’t been an issue. However, we are now moving into nonhazardous, nonflammable, water-based lines. For instance, we’re developing a white, water-based adhesive that we believe could become a leader in the water-base category. As far as product safety we still go above and beyond to only put out the safest products, here’s an example. About five years ago, we made a product called Rapid Release. We skin tested it, tested it personally, and tested it with our stylists. Everyone loved it, and we started shipping it out by the hundreds every day. Then we started getting calls, not a lot of them, but a few customers said it was irritating their skin and making it red. Now Walker will never
put any customer at risk, so we immediately changed the classification of Rapid Release to a product that is not for use on skin. And that was one of the products that I helped develop, so it was a bummer for me, but we just don’t mess with that period. When we feel that there is an issue, we just cancel the product or change it.
HSJ: Are there medical certifications or safety certifications that you have to comply with? SS: It depends on the intended use. For example, we market medical drapes that require a special clearance and our medical tapes for prosthetics have to be ISO-certified. But currently, in the wig industry, I’m not aware of any medical certification that is needed.
HSJ: Is Walker Tape only into adhesives or do you do other things? SS: So we’ve got the liquid and tape adhesives, but we’re also into solvents for removal, like C-22, Lace Release and Walker Solvent. We’ve got two scalp protectors, a regular and a long hold version called THICK. We do knot sealers to extend the life of their wig. We do positioning spray to make positioning easier… I’m flipping through the catalog as we speak… We also have a line of wet products for cleaning the scalp. We have a scalp scrub. We have a leave-in conditioner for the hair… I hope I’m not going into too much detail. We have hard bonds, clips. We’ve got products for supporting most any kind of hair replacement system.
HSJ: Looking ahead, how do you see the hair attachment market of the future? SS: We see people moving into white, waterbased adhesives and the really long holding tapes like Ultra Hold Tape.
HSJ: What is the significance of the liquid being “white?” Does that mean it’s transparent? SS: All the water-based, nonflammable adhesives are white in color, but they usually dry clear.
HSJ: Shane, please give our best regards to the family, we look forward to meeting with you again in the near future. About Walker Tape: Walker Tape Co. is a family owned business founded by Brent Bonham in 1985. They specialize in hair replacement products. More info can be found at WalkerTapeCo.com
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Left - Brian Bonham, Right - Gary Wismar Inspecting new product ExtendaBond Plus
7 The National Hair Journal Summer 2013
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8 The National Hair Journal Summer 2013
Short2Long Hair Extensions
Gorgeous doesn’t care what others are doing. Neither does Short2Long.
Medical A COMMITMENT TO EDUCATION Meet Carlos J.Puig, D.O., President ISHRS Dr. Carlos Puig has dedicated over 40 years to promoting skilled and ethical hair restoration. He has been a frequent speaker and educator at ISHRS (International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery) conferences and has headed numerous task forces and sub committees. His commitment to hair loss solutions is not restricted to surgery and he served as president of AHLC (American Hair Loss Council) in its heyday. Dr. Puig was elected president of ISHRS in 2013 and in this interview he talks about the Society’s continuing efforts to further develop professional education and deliver even higher levels of patient satisfaction. When he is not in surgery, Dr Puig is a popular (and talented) jazz musician. He was interviewed by John Vincent.
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chance to congratulate you at the time for the Golden Follicle Award, so let me make up for that now! And I should also congratulate you on your appointment to the presidency of ISHRS. Carlos Puig: Thank you very much. It’s an honor to be selected to serve the profession. It really is. HSJ: To get readers of The Journal oriented, let me start this interview with the simple question; what are the responsibilities of the president of ISHRS? CP: Oh, boy; you said it was going to be something simple… Well, I think the responsibility is similar to leadership responsibility anywhere. It’s to try to encourage those around you to contribute the best they can by giving them clarity of focus as well and insights into the risks and benefits of new procedures based on your own background and experience. Leadership is about getting the best out of people. It’s not about shouting, “Follow me,” and running up the hill. When properly managed, it’s done with a lot of consultation and with contributions from many minds. In addition, there are the ceremonial functions of course, where you represent the organization in different meetings around the world. I’ve had the opportunity to go to Greece for the DHI Master’s Workshop. I represented us in Denver at the FUE meeting and at the live surgery workshop in Orlando and I’ll be at the Japanese Society meeting in November. HSJ: Are there any personal goals that you hope to accomplish in this term? CP: We are hoping to renew ACCME (*Accreditation Council for Continuing Medical Education) approval as a certifying body. That initiative is taking place during my term, and I’m proud to say that our applications are already in and we expect that they will be received positively. We’ve got a great team with Victoria Ceh and Drs. Paul Cotterill and Bob Haber acting as our ACCME contacts. They have successfully shepherded us through the process in the past, and I’m proud to say that we got an “outstanding” for our initial two certifications. In fact, ACCME told us that we’re one of the few organizations to ever get an ‘outstanding’ in an initial review. Another project I’ve been looking at is the need within our specialty to train more doctors. Our fellowship training programs are limited in size because we haven’t been taking advantage of the latest online communications technology. During my presidency I would like to see the Fellowship Training Program revised to make it accessible to more physicians and provide a larger hands-on component. The Fellowship Training Committee should have their work
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completed shortly and I hope we’ll have a new program on the street in the near future. HSJ: Are you saying the market needs more hair transplant doctors, or that we need more training for existing hair transplant doctors? CP: Both. My own training program receives at least three requests a month for fellowship training, which is more than I can handle at the moment. We’re trying to create a program that’s more fluid and will make things easier for those of us who actually conduct the training. HSJ: Why does the market need more hair restoration surgeons? Why educate the competition? CP: I realize there may be some physicians who think we have too many hair docs already. But the reality is we have only scratched the surface of our potential market. We’ve only penetrated five percent of the US market alone. Worldwide, penetration is dramatically lower because hair restoration surgery is a relatively young specialty outside of the US. I’ve been doing hair restoration surgery for 41 years. When I started back in the ‘70s, we were treating about three percent of the potential market, now we’re treating about four or five percent. If you take all the people who are seeking hair loss solutions of one kind or another, surgery probably represents only 40 - 30 percent of the market, so, there’s plenty of opportunity for everybody! HSJ: Advances in medical technique and competitive pricing are obviously playing a part in expanding the market also. CP: Quite right. I gave a presentation eight or nine years ago to ISHRS members about the relationship between product quality and growth of the marketplace. Over the last seven or eight years, we’ve delivered a high quality product and as a result we’ve seen the market expand. But there’s a risk to developing new technologies, especially when they created by several different people in parallel development programs. It is easy to confuse the public by creating clever slogans for marketing purposes or renaming a therapy, both of which can undermine the public’s trust in the product or industry.
It is easy to confuse the public by creating clever slogans for marketing purposes or renaming a therapy, both of which can undermine the public’s trust in the product or industry. HSJ: That’s always the risk when medicine goes commercial. CP: Let me give an example. When automatic transmissions were first put in cars in the late 1930s, every manufacturer had a different name for them. One guy called it the “automatic drive.” Another called it a “fluid drive” and other manufacturers had their own names. Everyone was confused. The reality was there was no real marketplace acceptance until the language made sense to the consumer and everyone realized it was really an automatic transmission. When the same product has five or six different names it just confuses the marketplace and holds it back. HSJ: Do you think that the medical terminology being used today is confusing? FUE (follicular unit extraction) and FUT (strip method) are obvious examples. CP: Yes and no. First off, there’s a bunch of people out there who are trying to tell the consumer that FUE is a whole new hair restoration surgery and it’s not. FUE is a method of donor harvesting. The rest of the
9 The National Hair Journal Summer 2013
surgery, the important part of the surgery, is the placement of that precious hair. Hair restoration surgery is unique in that there’s the surgical component - the skills you need to extract the tissue and handle it properly so it doesn’t get damaged, and then there’s the aesthetic component. The aesthetic component is how you design a hairline, how you design and set the grafts. The kind of exit angles you create. You’re actually sculpting the hair replacement. So getting back to your question, FUE only has to do with donor harvesting. It’s an elective procedure. The patient can choose to have it done with an FUE method or with a strip method. A competent hair restoration surgeon, in my opinion, has to offer both. You’ve got to be in a position to offer the patient what he or she requests. HSJ: It seems that the marketing and advertising that ought to be creating a favorable climate for hair restoration surgery is actually doing the opposite. CP: Unfortunately, you are right. There are companies out there that are trying to oversimplify the specialty in order to facilitate the sale of their product. That’s going to hurt the market in the long run. HS: As the cost of hair transplantation continues to drop, do you anticipate that medical procedures will become a more attractive alternative to hair system wearers? CP: I have no idea what’s going on in the non-surgical market so I don’t know if we are competing for the same customer. I don’t think cost is as important quite frankly as quality. So as physicians provide an increasingly attractive and affordable end result, it has to impact other hair loss providers. However, as I noted earlier, there is still a huge untapped market with plenty of potential for everyone. HSJ: Going kind of back to the point that we were talking about earlier, isn’t ‘FUE’ simply a more refined extraction technique of what was done years ago? CP: Actually, it’s not ‘refined’ at all. It’s the
The big challenge for the consumer right now is trying to differentiate between authentic organizational sites and commercial sites imitating professional organizations same technique. It’s just the size of the graft that’s different. In 1976 or ’77, I tried to get one hair grafts, so did Dr. Walter Unger, but we couldn’t do it consistently. That’s what drove us to start shaving single hairs off the side of our 4.5-millimeter plugs to refine the hairline. We couldn’t get the fine grafts we needed using the technology of the day. Today’s FUE is a simply a more refined punch graft, but it’s a punch graft just the same. HSJ: That leads to the question, how is technology changing hair restoration? CP: You’re asking if the field going to change because of new technology, and my immediate answer is absolutely. I hope that those technological changes are driven by the desire for a better result, not just by the desire for cost savings or higher profits. HSJ: What are some of those new technologies coming onto the market? CP: There’s a bunch of them on the table that could dramatically change the results we get with hair restoration surgery. Many
of us have already incorporated Adenosine TriPhosphate (ATP) into our holding solutions. We’ve also incorporated Platelet Rich Plasma into our practice, and we’re looking at whether we can use PRP as an independent treatment for hair loss. Those kinds of advances certainly have the potential to change the field. Another thing we’re watching closely is the issue of who - or what - performs the actual the surgery? HSJ: Are you alluding to the role of robots in the operating room? CP: Yes, I am. Robots today can harvest grafts with precision, but they can’t plan a transplant or improve graft survival. They don’t improve the way hairlines are designed or have any impact on the hair exit angle or direction and spacing – in other words, the sculpting of the product itself. As I said earlier, the transplant can be divided into two broad phases, the medical component, which revolves around harvesting and protecting the grafts, and the aesthetic component, which revolves around creating the recipient sites and sculpting a natural hair distribution. The planning that goes into hair restoration surgery is a lot more extensive than donor harvesting; robots are not able to shortcut that. HSJ: The public is unaware of the new procedures and technologies available today. What steps are you taking to educate the public? CP: ISHRS has just launched a new website designed on two levels: one for the public and the other for its membership. It informs the public about all their options and demonstrates how much knowledge and depth there is to the specialty. Then there is a member’s-only section, which includes an online blog for better communication between ISHRS members on different topics, a LISTSERV system, and it also hosts a new training program where members can sign up for the new Fellowship Training Program and things like that. It’s not the intent of ISHRS to become a marketing organization, it’s just trying to share knowledge and give patients the insights they need to shop intelligently. HSJ: Is the information shared through social networking helping or hindering cosmetic surgery? CP: It has already had an impact on cosmetic surgery. The big challenge for the consumer right now is trying to differentiate between authentic organizational sites and commercial sites imitating professional organizations just trying to market their clients. Not everything you read on the Internet is true, but there is also valuable information there if you know where to look. So how do you discriminate between the two? I think that’s the problem the public is having right now. HSJ: How is the ISHRS coping with the challenges of social media? CP: That technology is in its infancy, I am not sure anyone knows how to optimize its use. We’ve barely scratched the surface. We’ve hired consultants to build those kinds of programs,
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11 The National Hair Journal Summer 2013
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and over the next year or two we expect to have those tools in place. As of today, we have a new website and we are developing Facebook and other social media sites. HSJ: An example of the power of the web might be the online debate about the side effects of Propecia. Because of the all the negative press, whether warranted or simply fueled to build a class action lawsuit, do you think this kind of online gossip is harmful or beneficial to the public? When debates like this arise what is the role of ISHRS? Would it get involved to give an authoritative answer? CP: Any distortion of information for personal or commercial gain is a disservice to the public, but I don’t see any way that it can be avoided without putting clamps on the Internet, and I’m not sure that we want to interfere with freedom of speech. So the most important thing for people using the Internet to remember is “caveat emptor” or “buyer beware.” Visitors should also be aware that Internet blogs often encourage complaints because complaints are sensational and that builds traffic. Remember the saying, “Misery Loves Company.” Unhappy people like to huddle together and there are plenty of chat rooms ready and willing to accommodate them. HSJ: Every five years, we hear that hair cloning is just around the corner; can you give us an update? CP: Well, first off, “cloning” is a misnomer, “tissue culturing” stem cells is what we’re talking about. Ken Washenik is one of the world’s foremost authorities on this topic and he’s much more suited to answer this question than I am. Of course, it would be a real blessing if we were able to tissue culture a patient’s stem cells and give them back in a way that could grow aesthetically acceptable hair. Research shows that we can grow the stem cells consistently in laboratory conditions, but the important question is how do we get them to grow on the patient’s head in a natural looking pattern? HSJ: We also hear a lot about the benefits of PRP or platelet rich plasma. Can you explain? CP: Right, platelet rich plasma contains the growth factors that are critical to wound healing. When I finished medical school, we were taught there were four components to blood; red blood cells that carry oxygen, white blood cells that fight infection, serum that carries all the chemistries that you need, and platelets. Platelets are these little sub-cellular packets that contain what we thought were just the components needed to cause the blood to clot when a bleeding occurred, protecting the body when there’s an injury. So you when get a cut or gunshot wound, the platelet rush to the site of the injury and precipitates a blood clot so you don’t bleed to death. Today we know that those platelets not only function to produce a fibrous clot at the wound site, but they function for as long as a year after the injury, being deposited in the wound site and releasing several different cytokines and growth factors that are critical not only to stopping blood loss, but also general healing of the wound, building a new collagen base, and remodeling the scar for as long as a year after the injury. What is even more exciting is that we’ve discovered in the last two or three years is that the growth factors contained in platelets are the same growth factors that are critical to the function of the hair growth cycle. So we may find we don’t need to do stem cell culturing after all because we can extract growth factors from PRP that may get the hair to regrow or prevent it from falling out in the first place. I think that’s where the future may be. HSJ: What about other advanced technologies like low-level light laser therapy? CP: Does laser light therapy work? In a word, yes. We have good placebo controlled studies that demonstrate that it does. It’s another tool in the contemporary hair restoration surgeons’ armory? Does ISHRS endorse or recommend it? That’s not our job. Our role is to look at all potential medical interventions
report the facts as they’re known, and what the medical literature says are sound therapeutic possibilities. HSJ: Some hair restoration clinics have expanded their services from thinning hair to eyebrows and eyelashes. Are face-lifts and other cosmetic surgeries the next step? CP: Most of us of us in hair restoration surgery have neither the desire nor the background and training to start doing facelifts or blepharoplasties. Those are a different specialty. I think it goes the other way. A more logical step might be for physicians who do oculoplastics, those who do blepharoplasties to move into hair transplants to replace or reconstruct the brows on their patients. I know my work at Baylor with cancer patients involves rebuilding eyebrows and temporal points and things like that. HSJ: What do you see as the biggest challenge facing hair restoration today? CP: The movement afoot that encourages nonphysicians to perform hair transplant surgery disturbs me. The idea that a hair restoration technician can harvest grafts and plan procedures and function alongside a physician who is not trained in hair restoration surgery is wrong. I think this is irresponsible and dangerous. I believe qualified physicians should and must remain intimately involved in all aspects of the procedure. HSJ: Where does robotics fit into this picture? CP: I want to get away from the idea that a fancy harvesting machine and technicians doing the surgery are one and the same. I have no problem with robotics, in fact, I’m excited to see the research that’s been done in that area. I have no problem with new tools either, be it John Cole’s or Bob True’s harvesting system, a Neograft harvesting system, or the Artas system. It doesn’t matter. I’m excited to see those come to market and be available for us. What I worry about is those systems becoming a substitute for quality medical management by skilled physicians and surgeons. To say that you can delegate this work to a technician who may or may not have even a college degree is irresponsible; I see this as a serious challenge that’s facing our profession today. HSJ: I know you are also concerned about educating the public and creating realistic expectations. CP: Professional education and training is the backbone of what we do here at ISHRS. The open communication that exists at ISHRS, the open mic, if you will, at our meetings that allows people to stand up and give their opinion and argue and debate topics has driven our specialty to perform better and better every year. Training consumers is the other side of that coin. We have wonderful hair restoration tools available today, we want the consumer to understand them, evaluate all their choices in an educated way and develop realistic expectations about their potential end result. HSJ: When your term is up and you pass the presidency on to your successor, what achievement would make you most proud? CP: I would like to pass on a financially sound organization that continues to train physicians and encourage open debate and communication about hair restoration surgery and ways to make our product better. I’ve been supported by a wonderful team. There are five men and women, on the executive committee, another 9 or 12 on the board of governors, and probably another 30 patient-focused physicians in the leadership of ISHRS. I can’t take credit for any of the stuff that’s gone on this year - I’ve just been given the opportunity to steer the boat for 12 or 13 months. The Accreditation Council for Continuing Medical Education - Aspiring physicians spend four years in medical school and three to five years in residency training. For the rest of their careers, they rely on accredited continuing medical education as one of the support systems that helps them continuously improve their practice and their care of patients. Participation in accredited CME helps physicians meet requirements for maintenance of licensure, maintenance of specialty board certification, credentialing, membership in professional societies, and other professional privileges.
12 The National Hair Journal Summer 2013
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Seen Keynote Address: Arianna Huffington, co-founder and Editor-in-Chief of the Huffington Post, shared the keynote address on ‘Fearless Leadership’. She stressed that to be successful in your career, you must begin to balance your work and life without all of the technical applications 24/7. She shared her tips on how to thrive during the turbulent economy by staying focused on leadership that eliminates stress.
International Pavilions & Exhibitors: Arianna Huffington
Through collaboration with countries seeking to expand their foreign trade, Cosmoprof North America once again dedicated special sections on the show floor to distinct International Country Pavilions. Brazil, China, Columbia, Italy, Korea, Pakistan, Spain and Turkey had their own pavilions. Other international exhibitors included Australia, Belgium, Brazil, Canada, China, Colombia, Egypt, France, Germany, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Ireland, Israel, Italy, Japan, South Korea, Lebanon, Malta, Mexico, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Pakistan, Peru, Russian Federation, San Marino, Singapore, Slovenia, Spain, Switzerland, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey, Ukraine, United Kingdom and Vietnam as well as the USA.
Cosmoprof North America 2013 Record Growth in Exhibitors & Attendees
Larry Oskin/PBA
Cosmoprof North America (CPNA) continues to exemplify the energy and creativity that drive the beauty industry. As such, 2013 proved to be a record year for the show both in terms of the largest number of attendees in the show’s history and the largest number of participating exhibitors. The event, which was held at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center in Las Vegas, featured a sold out show floor with 892 exhibiting companies along with over 26,000 attendees, an 8% increase over the previous year. CPNA prides itself on uniting attendees and exhibitors, acting as the ultimate platform for networking, sharing new and upcoming products and cultivating new business relationships. Whether you are focused on hair, skin, spa, hair loss, hair Mandalay Bay restoration, wigs or hair extensions, this event offers the opportunity to explore what’s new in every beautycare category.
2013 Cosmoprof: With dozens of special educational seminars, symposiums and special stage presentations, Cosmoprof North America attracted many new and innovative brands in addition to industry leaders such as Aveda, Action Bag, Aquage, OPI Nails, LCN USA, Orly, CND, NSI, Control Corrective, Repechage, Moroccanoil, Macadamia, Amika, Andis, Aloxxi, Betty Dain, Belson, Marianna, Colorproof, Dashing Diva, KMS / Goldwell, Schwarzkopf, American Crew, Scruples, JC Penny Salons, Milady, Keratin Complex, DermOrganic, Rusk / Conair / Babylis, Sexy Hair, Bioelements, Marianna, Andis, Pibbs, European Touch, JKS International Hair, Peter Coppola, RHR Hair Replacement, Croc, L’Oreal Professional, FHI Heat, Fromm, SureThik, XFusion, Hair U Wear, I.C.O.N., Brazilian Blowout, INOAR, Kenchii Shears, Helen of Troy, TIGI, Zerran International, Milano Software, Wella as well as Zotos International. The list was endless!
Networking & Education: PBA ‘Beauty Week’ offers members and the professional beauty industry first-rate educational opportunities, Visitors arriving early senior level business networking and special events that celebrate the accomplishments of our industry leaders. An array of special forums were held on legislative updates as well as The Next Phase Of Online Marketing, How To Build & Grow Spa Distribution, Successful Digital Marketing Campaigns, The US Multicultural Market – An African American Perspective and Social Media Marketing.
Another winning design Photo Credit: Matthew Morris
Exciting New Focus & Trends ~ Hair Extensions, Wigs, Hair Piece, Feathers & Bling: The Cosmoprof show floor was once
again robust with exciting new trends, services and product innovations. Hair extensions are still an extremely hot and growing salon service category! There were more than 40 professional wig, hair replacement and hair extension companies represented, showing this trend is here to stay with beautiful hair enhancement and hair replacement solutions – including Amika, Aqua, Beauty Service, Ecoco, Elegance, Eva, Eve, Eyemee, G.V., Garland, Global Best, Goodyard, Guangzhou, Hair Couture, Hair U Wear, Hair Art, Hotheads, Ilirija, It’s Better Than A Wig, Jay Stone, JDB, Kirshner, Merrylight, Organic Pure, Qingdao Crown, Hair U Wear Qingdao Jifa, Qingdao Nice Hair Art, Rainbow, Reese Robert, Rush Hair Replacement, The Cosmetic Republic, Tish & Snooky’s Manic Panic, Troika, Try Now, Magic Sleek, Universal, WigsCan, Xuchang Beautyhair, Xuchang Firenz Hair, Huchang Jitai, Zerran International and more. Hair feathers, crystals, ornaments and bling were once again everywhere at Cosmoprof, just as they are in the fashion capitals of the world today. This new trend will be around for a while, so there is still time to take advantage of this fashion or fad phenomena while it is still hot!
The show floor displayed many new professional hair loss, hair replacement, hair graft, hairpiece, wig and eyelash extension products. This market is expected to remain explosive over the next ten to twenty years as aging baby boomers become hair addition clients. Hair Fibers were a big hit, with displays from SureThik Natural Hair Thickening Fibers, XFusion / Toppik, Super Million Hair and Grande Hair. Hair U Wear led the way this year on the show floor with the expansion of their RW – Raquel Welch wigs and hair additions as well as with their Gabor Collection. They also launched a variety of exciting new human and synthetic hair extension collections. Other major hair extensions companies like Di Biase Hair Extensions USA, Hairdreams and others were also there.
Salon and dermatology-based laser hair restoration remains an exciting new trend for salons, spas and medical spas catering to clients who suffer from hair loss. Hair texturizing / thermal straightening with new ‘natural’ and ‘alternative’ formaldehyde and ‘aldehyde-free’ formulas remains an extremely strong trend. With all of the FDA and consumer health and safety challenges to the formaldehyde based hair straighteners, safe new hair retexturizing and hair straightening products are now successfully being launched. Prizewinning styling! Photo Credit: Sue Pemberton
Natural haircolor, airbrush makeup, specialty oil based products, organic and naturally based products are quickly rising in popularity while environmentally friendly new devices like hair brushes, appliances and salon tools continue to be innovatively invented and re-invented for salon professionals to use and share with salon clients for use between salon visits.
Casual look turns heads Photo Credit: Matthew Morris
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15 The National Hair Journal Summer 2013
Heard
Cesare Ragazzi Hits the Road The Team from Cesare Ragazzi Laboratories had a blast traveling to 8 different hair replacement studios for their first ever “Road Show”. It was a jam-packed schedule, according to John Vincent, North American representative for the Italian company. Since presenting the company’s expansion plan in the U.S. and Canada at Transitions™ Groups meeting in Syracuse last Spring, an initial tour was arranged for the East and Midwest. Free CNC™ systems are being made for the lucky clients who were selected by the salon owners.
John, Bob Rider and Stefano in Dayton.
John, Maria, Frank Prasek and Stefano at Hair Designers in Houston
7 World Congress for Hair Research th
Edinburgh, UK. 05/13 - Nearly 600 delegates attended the 7th World Congress for Hair Research in Edinburgh, making this one of the largest Hair Research meetings in recent years. The congress represented hair research societies worldwide, including the European, North American, Japanese, Korean, Indian and Australasian Societies, and was the major event in the calendar for professionals with an interest in hair, including specialist physicians, dermatologists, surgeons and scientists from academia and industry. The program featured presentations by leading scientists and clinicians in the plenary sessions and provided an opportunity to share the latest research through talks from contributors of the highest scoring abstracts. Delegates enjoyed several sponsored science symposia and the dedicated poster sessions in the exhibition hall. Dr. David Kingsley, Dr. David Kingsley, President WTS, presented a poster at the Congress called: “Female Hair President WTS Loss Dysmorphic Disorder vs. Female Pattern Hair Loss: How Do the Quality of Life Deficits Compare?” Female Hair Loss Dysmorphic Disorder vs Female Pattern Hair Loss: How Do the Quality of Life Deficits Compare?
There were 5 sponsored science symposia: J&J – Ulrike Blume-Peytavi and Paradi Mirmirani described recent clinical studies to further understand the mode of action of minoxidil.
P&G organized an update on the causes of Michela, John, Zina and Jeffrey Paul, CRLabs CEO Stefano Ospitali and CRL technician Maria Cacciato.
Michael Suba getting fitted for his first CNC system!
and repair solutions to hair damage.
development of new technologies for Dove hair care products. Studios visited included: • Continental Hair in Toronto • JoJo Concepts in Long Island • Mane Image in Merrillville Indiana • Allusions in Cincinnati • Hair Replacement Clinic in Dayton, OH • Jeffrey Paul Salon in Cleveland • Hair Designers in Houston
P&G also presented a session on scalp health. The Hair Research Society of India organized a workshop on aspects of hair trichology and restoration. The Crew at Michael Suba’s with Dannielle Grillo from NY.
The company is returning to the salons in October to deliver the ultra-custom systems. Additional ‘Road shows’ are planned in the near future. Salons are invited to call John at 805-597-3004 or email johnvincent@cesareragazzi.com to be considered as a selected salon.
¹World Trichology Society, Wilmington, Delaware, USA
²British Science Corp. New York, New York, USA
Background
TABLE III: GROUP COMPARISON TABLE
• Hair is a significant component of the importance of physical attractiveness and body image. • Losing hair often negatively affects an individual’s overall quality of life. • Previous studies on the psychological and quality of life effects of female pattern hair loss have shown that women with genetic hair loss are more ashamed, distressed, anxious and concerned about their hair loss; have lower self-evaluation and self-esteem scores; and have more psychosocial problems than men with genetic alopecia or women with normal amounts of hair. • Not every woman who complains of hair loss actually has a hair loss problem. • A small percentage of women with no obvious hair thinning are extremely concerned about losing their hair. • This phenomenon has been called Hair Loss Dysmorphic Disorder (HLDD).
Objectives This study was designed to: • Compare the quality of life affects of hair loss in women with HLDD (that is, women without a hair loss problem) with the quality of life affects of hair loss in women with female pattern hair loss (FPHL), and with women who complained of no hair loss problem (‘normals’).
Methods 1) Hair Loss Dysmorphic Disorder group (HLDD). • 10 women (ages 29-48, median 35.5 years of age). • All were preoccupied with losing their hair. • All had been diagnosed with a normal hair distribution and no apparent hair loss. 2) Female Pattern Hair Loss group (FPHL). • 25 women (ages 20-52, median 38 years of age) • All had been diagnosed with female pattern hair loss. 3) Control group (C). • 24 ‘control/normal’ female volunteers (ages 18-60, median 37 years of age). • None complained of any type of hair loss and were assessed as to not having any hair loss condition. 4) Kingsley Alopecia Profile (KAP) • All groups completed the Kingsley Alopecia Profile (KAP), a 38 statement reliable and valid questionnaire which measures overall quality of life.
MEDIAN SCORE
HLDD group vs. Control group
P<0.0001 ***
FPHL group vs Control group
P<0.0001 ***
HLDD group vs FPHL group
P=0.544 NS
*** = Significant
NS = Non-significant
Discussions and Conclusions • FPHL have more quality of life deficits than women with no hair loss (Control group). • HLDD have more quality of life deficits than women with no hair loss (Control group). • HLDD median scores fall into the very severe impact category of the KAP. • No significant difference in HLDD results when compared to FPHL group. • Previous studies have described HLDD as being caused by an unhappy marriage or work environment. • During this study, additional factors such as general life stress (combining work with looking after children and/or elderly parents) and, conversely, being unmarried (70% were not in a long-term relationship) were also found to be important factors in HLDD. • A small group (2 women) projected their hair loss on to their teen-age daughters. These women claimed that their daughters were losing hair and brought them in for evaluation. None of their daughters had any discernable hair loss problems. • Women who present with complaints of hair loss, yet have no discernable hair loss problem, should be termed as having Hair Loss Dysmorphic Disorder (HLDD). • HLDD is a preoccupation with hair and sufferers have a distorted view of what their hair looks like. Any minimal hair defect is vastly exaggerated and obsession about their hair affects their quality of life. Suggested consultation and treatment interventions: • Practitioner needs to take the woman’s concerns seriously and empathically. • Clinic staff needs to be trained to help these patients. • Holistic treatment approach: - medical evaluation (thyroid, CBC, sex hormone profile, general chemistries, etc.).
Statistical Analysis • Significant values for this study were p≤0.05. TABLE I: KINGSLEY ALOPECIA PROFILE SCORING CHART
KAP SCORE
GROUPS
• FPHL median scores fall into the severe impact category of the KAP.
• Mann-Whitney U-test using Z scores, to determine whether the two independent groups were drawn from the same population.
Unilever presented insights into the
(P180)
AUTHOR: DAVID H. KINGSLEY PhD¹²
- assessment if referral for psychological counseling necessary. - cosmetic trichology treatments to help with improving their quality of life. - diet advise plus necessary supplements (such as iron, vitamin D, Nourkrin®, etc.). - stress reduction techniques.
DEFINITION OF KAP SCORES
>+29 to +76
very severe impact on overall quality of life
>+17 to +29
severe impact on overall quality of life
>+9 to +17
moderate impact on overall quality of life
>0 to +9
minor impact on overall quality of life
>-8 to 0
no impact on overall quality of life but possible impact on one or more KAP subcategories
-76 to -8
no impact on overall quality of life
GROUP ASSESSMENTS Hair Loss Dysmorphic Disorder (HLDD) group vs. Control (C) group. Female Pattern Hair Loss (FPHL) group vs. C group. HLDD group vs. FPHL group.
Results
Future • More studies need to be carried out with the female HLDD group, as well as with males exhibiting similar hair concerns.
References (partial) 1. Cash TF, Price VH, Savin RC. Psychological effects of androgenetic alopecia on women: Comparisons with balding men and with female control subjects. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 1993; 29: 568-75. 2. Eckert J.Diffuse hair loss in women: The psychopathology of those who complain. Acta Psychiatrica Scandinavica, 1976; 53(5): 321-327. 3. Grimalt R. Psychological aspects of hair disease. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2005; 4(2): 142-147. 4. Kingsley DH. The development and validation of a quality of life measure for the impact of androgen - dependent alopecia. PhD thesis. University of Portsmouth, U.K.; 1999.
TABLE II: RESULTS TABLE GROUP
MEDIAN SCORE
Hair Loss Dysmorphic Disorder (HLDD)
+37.02
Female Pattern Hair Loss (FPHL)
+24.39
Control Group
0.00
5. Kingsley DH, Thom E. Cosmetic Hair Treatments Improve Quality of Life in Women With Female Pattern Hair Loss. J. Appl. Cosmetol. 30, 49-59 (April/June 2012). 6. Radmanesh M, Shafiei S, Mortazavi M.E. Hair Loss Dysmorphic Disorder - a Frequently Encountered and Often Neglected Disorder. Dermatology and Psychosomatics 2002; 3(4): 193-195. 7. Thom E. Nourkrin®: Objective and Subjective Effects and tolerability in persons with hair loss. J Int Med Res 2006;34:515-19.
BRITISH SCIENCE POSTER.indd 1
3/22/2013 2:59:33 PM
Female Hair Loss Poster
Kao - Prof George Rogers (Adelaide, Australia) discussed hair fiber science in a special session presented by Kao. The societies will next meet together in Jeju Island Korea from May 14-17, 2014 at the 8th World Congress for Hair Research. For more information visit www.hair2014.org.
Special guest Sheryl McCalab, Jo Barone and CRLabs representative Michela Perascandolo at JoJo’s.
City Of Hope Gala: This formal black tie event was celebrated during PBA Beauty Week in support of the City of Hope Hospital and Research Center with their mission to fight cancer, diabetes, HIV/AIDS and other life threatening diseases. Reuben Carranza, as CEO of Wella North America and part of the Salon Professional Division of Procter & Gamble, was honored with the City of Hope -- Spirit of Life Award. Carranza was recognized for his successful business contributions as well as his extensive charitable efforts and community outreach. City of Hope is an independent biomedical research, treatment and educational institution dedicated to the prevention and cure of diabetes, cancer and life threatening diseases.
Edinburgh Castle
Trend Scout Program: Cosmoprof actively reported their new Cosmoprof discoveries, trends
addition to being a successful actor, author, entertainment journalist, producer, husband and father, Mario Lopez is a passionate supporter of a variety of charitable initiatives. Lopez works to raise awareness and funds for many causes that support the healthy development of children and young adults. He works as Alumni Ambassador with the Boy’s & Girl’s Clubs of America as well as their BE GREAT campaign. He also supports Children’s Hospital Los Angeles, Community Youth Athletic Center of Chula Vista, Jameson’s Army and Padres Contra el Cancer. The Beautiful Humanitarian Award annually honors a public figure who exemplifies beauty both on the inside and out, while having a long-standing involvement and commitment to multiple charitable organizations.
and findings with live continuous show coverage on Twitter and Facebook posts, giving valuable instant access to this show through the Internet.
Cosmoprof 2014: Mark your calendars for July 12 to 15, 2014, where Cosmoprof, Beacon,
New TV ‘Open-See’ Program: CPNA also hosted a live TV Open-See with key merchants from QVC, HSN and The Shopping Channel along with their teams. Beauty executives from these shopping networks looked for innovative and authentic product concepts, with the ability to connect with their millions of viewers.
PBA Beacon: Only the best and brightest cosmetology students are accepted into the PBA Beacon program each year, designed to offer them the opportunity to network with and learn from some of the most successful salon/spa owners in the industry. PBA Beacon students had the special opportunity to be inspired at NAHA 2013.
PBA Beautiful Humanitarian Award: Mario Lopez was honored with the Beautiful Humanitarian Award at the NAHA Event, while he was also the NAHA master of ceremonies. In
The City Of Hope Awards and NAHA Awards will be celebrated again at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center in Las Vegas, Nevada. For more information on exhibiting or attending, visit www.CosmoprofNorthAmerica.com or call 800-557-3356. Editorial Notes: Larry Oskin is president of Marketing Solutions, a full-service marketing, advertising, graphic design, media relations and consulting services agency specializing in the professional beauty business. He is also president of Art Beautique. For more information visit: www.MktgSols.com, www.ArtBeautique.com or contact Marketing Solutions at 703-359-6000.
16 The National Hair Journal Summer 2013
Profiting From The Shift To Home Laser Hair Devices By Lisa Zimmerman
The Ultimate Cosmetic Bond The world’s most precious hair demands the most sophisticated cosmetic bond. So Professional Hair Labs was flattered to be approached by The Russia Collection to develop a new‑generation bond for its world‑class hair systems.
Convenience Equals Compliance - As anyone who offers a laser hair growth program knows, the biggest challenge to optimum results for clients is compliance with the regular sessions. With the home devices, compliance is much easier for clients, therefore results are improved. The home devices require typically 30-minute sessions, every other day.
Utterly Undetectable– The Russia Collection is famous for its invisible knots and that meant the new Ghost Bond had to be high-performance, yet utterly undetectable. We took this challenge to our research chemists in Europe who are experts in advanced cosmetic and medical adhesives.
State of the Art– After months of laboratory research and clinical trials, we are proud to announce Ghost Supreme, which as its name implies, is in a league of its own. This state of the art cosmetic bond is not for everyone. In fact, it is probably not for you. But if you or your clients demand the ultimate in cosmetic bonding, and are prepared to pay a premium for this kind of performance, then this is your only choice. What makes it different? • • • • •
Subtle skin-toned base for total invisibility. Matte finish, wet or dry. Anti-bacterial agents for health & hygiene. Gentle, yet strong, formulation that’s easier to apply. And, of course, PHL’s legendary commitment to product safety.
The Ultimate Cosmetic Bond When only the best is good enough. Email: info@prohairlabs.com USA: 1 800 778 4247 Germany: +49 (0)30 2089 6831 UK: +44 (0)20 3286 0094 Ireland: +353. (0)1 442 8808
“Often Imitated. Never Duplicated.”
We also offer our home laser devices for hair transplant patients for both pre-op and postop care. Recently, one of our non-surgical program hair clients purchased a home laser device to prevent further hair loss on the back and sides of his head.
There’s a revolution happening in the delivery of laser hair growth therapy - In the past, laser hair therapy with regular visits to the studio for laser sessions has proven to be both an effective hair loss solution for clients and dependable revenue source for hair restoration studios. However, all that has changed with the introduction of laser home devices. Consumers are increasingly choosing to “opt out” of traditional laser hair programs that require regular visits to the studio for sessions under a “hooded laser” and choosing instead, the convenience of home laser therapy. I believe that the market share of home devices will only continue to increase. I believe that the market share of home devices will only continue to increase. This migration of laser clients to the newer technological applications has caused a disruption in the traditional business model of laser hair therapy for hair restoration studios. It’s time to “re-think” your laser program to leverage this industry trend. Shouldn’t You Be Offering Your Clients Home Laser Device? - Hair restoration studios with traditional laser programs may be reluctant to offer home or handheld laser units because of concerns about losing existing laser clients. That’s understandable. But with the growing acceptance of home laser hair therapy, if they hear or learn about the device on-line or elsewhere you risk losing that sale. At National Hair Centers, we package our home laser hair therapy devices with hair growth products designed to work effectively with the laser. We also promote the home laser hair therapy with periodic visits to the studio for scalp treatments and evaluations to monitor results. We strive to continue a relationship with the client, rather than look at the laser home devices as a “one and done” sale. Expand Your Laser Client Base - With today’s busy lifestyles there are men and women who are candidates for Low Level, Laser Light Therapy (LLLT) who because of their schedules, will not commit to traditional two or three times a week sessions at the salon. Many will however, embrace the convenience of using a home device. Additionally, there are prospective clients who are out of the primary driving area of your salon who can’t do a laser program because the distance is too far for regular visits. In the past there wasn’t much you could do for them. Today, they are prime candidates for home laser devices.
Which Devices Do You Offer? - There’s a wide spectrum of home laser devices available, from hand-held laser combs to portable laser caps that fit discreetly under any cap or hat. At NHC, we have carried the Laser Comb for many years and found that compliance is low due to the method of application. So, we looked at three other newer devices before deciding what to offer at National Hair Centers. These were: iGrow home laser, the LaserCap™, and the Capillus 272. All of the units were extremely well made, and fit the requirements of 650nm in wavelengths. It is also important to note: both the LaserCap™ and the Capillus 272 require the studio to have a physician in order to determine suitability for the devices. Clients wishing to purchase either device must fill out a questionnaire and have it reviewed by the studio’s physician. This could be problematic, if you’re a studio that isn’t associated with a doctor. Any of the three laser devices mentioned above are worthy additions to your product offerings. Depending on the profit margins you wish to achieve, you could choose any one or all three. At National Hair Centers, we decided to offer the Capillus 272 laser home device for various reasons. The Capillus 272 with 272 laser diodes (no LEDs), it provides more scalp coverage (including the frontal and temporal regions) than the other laser home devices. As a portable device, the Capillus 272 has a rechargeable battery and is conveniently worn under any hat or cap. This allows the client to wear the device almost anywhere including at home, driving their car, or at the gym. Our clientele response to the Capillus 272 has been extremely favorable. In fact, I was so impressed with the Capillus 272, I made arrangements, that in addition to the manufacturer, and I am now the exclusive distributor of the device. I am now able to offer the Capillus 272 to the retail market and wholesale it at special pricing. I’ve also arranged for our physicians to review the required questionnaire and make the necessary doctor recommendations for studios that don’t have a physician. If you wish to learn more about this program please email nationalhair@nationalhair.com It’s Time To Expand Your Laser Options Today! - Whichever laser device you choose to offer, I believe the time to act is now. The portable laser market is here to stay and is now becoming too large to ignore. The portable laser market is here to stay and is now becoming too large to ignore. By embracing and evolving with the new technological applications, you can continue profitable laser hair therapy programs in your studio.
17 The National Hair Journal Summer 2013
Top Cosmetic Company Invests in Hair Growth Replicel and Shiseido Collaborate on Technology for Treating Pattern Baldness RepliCel Life Sciences Inc. to receive $4.2 million upfront fee, with additional royalties of $31.5 million from licensing Agreement allowing Shisedo to use RepliCel’s RCH-01 hair regeneration technology treating pattern baldness in Japan, China, South Korea, Taiwan and the ASEAN countries. “This agreement gives RepliCel’s RCH-01 hair regeneration technology important thirdparty validation from one of the most respected cosmetic companies in the world. Vancouver, BC. 07/2013 - RepliCel Life Sciences Inc. has completed a Collaboration and Technology Development Transfer Agreement with Shiseido Company, Limited. Shiseido will pay RepliCel an upfront fee of over $4MM. In addition, Shiseido will pay RepliCel sales milestones amounts of up to $30MM and royalties. The Agreement gives Shiseido an exclusive geographic license to use RepliCel’s RCH01 hair regeneration technology in Japan, China, South Korea, Taiwan and the ASEAN countries representing a population of approximately 2.1 billion people. Shiseido and RepliCel will collaborate on the continued improvement of the technology and will conduct human clinical trials in each of their territories with the goal of commercializing a safe and effective hair regenerative treatment to help those suffering from pattern baldness and thinning hair.
With the increasing awareness of baldness as a medical condition that can be treated; the demand for hair loss treatments has sharply risen; especially in the Asian market. For example, a study by the Peking University People’s Hospital published in the British Journal of Dermatology in 2010 found that 21 percent of adult males and six percent of females in China suffer from hormonedriven hair loss. Furthermore, the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery’s (ISHRS) biennial survey of hair restoration physicians found that the number of hair restoration patients in Asia grew 345% from 2004 to 2010. Shiseido has also conducted research on hair and scalp concerns. Their survey of women living in Tokyo, Shanghai, Chengdu and Bangkok found that women aged 40+ commented that their hair was thinning.
RCH-01 Procedure RCH-01 is a patented cellular replication and implantation technology designed to rejuvenate damaged and miniaturized hair follicles in balding scalp. This technology has been developed over ten years of research, experimentation and clinical trials. The mechanics of this technology involve the extraction of as few as 20 hair follicles from the back of a patient’s scalp where healthy cycling hair follicles reside. Specific cells are isolated from hair follicles and are cultured in a current Good Manufacturing Practice compliant facility using the Company’s proprietary cellular replication process. The cultured cells are reintroduced back into balding areas on a patient’s scalp and are expected to rejuvenate damaged hair follicles leading to the growth of new healthy hair fibers.
David Hall, CEO of RepliCel commented, “This agreement gives RepliCel’s RCH-01 hair regeneration technology important third-party validation from one of the most respected cosmetic companies in the world. In addition, the Japanese government has recently committed to establish a new approval process for regenerative medicine products focused on accelerating approval timelines. About RepliCel Life Sciences This changing regulatory environment enhances the The Company is developing two autologous cell strategic nature of our collaboration with Shiseido. therapies; the first being a cellular treatment for In parallel with RepliCel’s planned Phase II trial androgenetic alopecia (pattern baldness); RCH-01; in Europe, the Shiseido license represents a second and the other being a cell therapy for the treatment clinical pathway for the development of our RCH- of chronic tendon injuries (RCT-01). Both products 01 technology.” are based on RepliCel’s innovative technology which utilizes cells isolated from a patient’s own healthy “We look forward to working with Shiseido with its hair follicles to address specific cellular deficits. Each deep expertise in hair research. We anticipate that program is in the regulatory process of preparing for our collaborative efforts will support the continued Phase II clinical trials. RepliCel’s business model is to improvement of our technology,” stated Dr. Rolf develop and license its technologies to fully integrated Hoffmann, Chief Medical Officer of RepliCel. “This life science companies. license represents the first of many development and collaboration agreements we intend to undertake About Shiseido Company, Limited around our broader platform of addressing cellular Shiseido was established in 1872 as Japan’s first Western-style Since then, the company has led the cosmetic deficits in diseases such as pattern baldness and pharmacy. technology and culture in Japan over more than 100 years. tendinosis,” concluded Dr. Hoffmann.
Capilia On a Roll The Quebec-based Capilia Group continues to expand and now has four new US associates in addition to its extensive Canadian network. Andrea and Dan Green from Hair Professionals West Palm Beach, Florida and Anderia Kowalski from Elite Hair Alternatives in Orlando are the latest members to join the group. They join Susan Kettering and Grant Gunderson of Capilia Pittsburgh by HRI of Pennsylvania. Dan and Julie Brummel from Winners Circle in Madison, Wisconsin were the first Capilia centre in the United States. North of the border, Hélène Bouchard of Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu in the province of Québec plans to join the Capilia Group and will open her new centre in October 2013. Meanwhile, Manon Bilodeau, from Val- d’Or, Quebec opened Capilia’s 33rd center (Capilia Abitibi) in August. Isabelle Arsenault and Karolann Tremblay Guimond of Clinique Capillaire Voluma in Baie-Comeau joined in June. Other members include, Look 140 in Timmins (ON), Josée Prévost owner of Capil Art, André Descôteaux, Manon Beauregard in Ste Julie (Quebec), Clinique Capillaire Jeannot Larocque (Qc) located in Mont-Tremblant (Quebec), Tania Fortin from Capilia in Sherbrooke (Quebec), Debbie’s Wig of Brampton (Ontario) and The team of Citylooks in Winnipeg, Manitoba in the West of Canada.
18 The National Hair Journal Summer 2013
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Virtuesse hair does to your
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Teresa Scanlan Miss America 2011
Featuring the Contessa, a 100% Eastern European human hair full cap design.
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© 2012 HairUWear®
19 The National Hair Journal Summer 2013
WOMEN DENY THEIR BEAUTY
THE NATIONAL HAIR & SKIN JOURNAL The National Hair & Skin Journal was founded in 1997 as a business resource for salon and clinic owners. Its mission is to provide hair-management professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will help them provide superior service to their patients. It is a full-color tabloid, published quarterly and distributed worldwide.
Unilever Researches Beauty Confidence
EDITOR IN CHIEF Christopher Webb cwebb@nationalhairjournal.com
In denial (35%), embarrassed (30%), uncomfortable (26%) – that’s how British women feel when someone points out something beautiful about them, according to research from beauty brand Dove. In fact, women find it so difficult to talk about their bodies in a positive way that they would rather fall over in the middle of a public place than tell people a part of their body they think is beautiful.* And when asked what part of themselves they would call beautiful, the range of answers shows just how difficult a task it is with responses including calves, toes, shoulders, wrists and even ribcages! As many as 7% of women said they couldn’t name a single thing.
The power of women identifying their friends’ beauty spots - Yet while only 1% of British women would call themselves beautiful, they find it easy to see beauty in their friends. On average, it takes women less than half a second to name something beautiful about their friends, compared to up to eight seconds to name something beautiful about themselves. Over half of women (52%) make sure they tell their friends what’s beautiful about them on a regular basis, with two thirds (66%) saying they do so because they know the positive impact this can have on how they feel about their bodies. It is this ability of women to help their friends see their own personal beauty that Unilever’s Dove is aiming to capitalize on in its new ‘Beauty Spot’ campaign. As a brand that is committed to helping women recognize their own individual beauty, Dove is calling on women to tackle the beauty confidence deficit in by helping their friends see what is beautiful about them, to help unlock greater body confidence and self-esteem.
Real Women Celebrate Their Beauty Spots Dove has partnered with award winning photographer Laura Pannack to capture the transformative power of real women celebrating a part of themselves that their friends have helped them identify as beautiful. The image features five real women covering most of their bodies with a sheet, revealing only their own beauty spots. Commenting on the images, photographer Laura Pannack said: “The idea of the image is to represent the power we all have to feel more confident about who we are. By supporting one another we can change our own views to more rational, realistic, and positive ones. I hope that when people see the campaign they will be encouraged to re-evaluate how they define beauty.” Commenting on the research, Kate Fox, Director of the Social Issues Research Centre,
LEGAL ADVISOR Joel Morgenthau TECHNICAL ADVISORS Isaac Brakha Dr. Shelley Friedman Larry Oskin/ Maryla Fraser
says: “This Dove study reveals some of the anxieties experienced by women talking about their own appearance, perhaps especially in this country, where our ‘modesty rules’ complicate matters by prescribing self-deprecation. But for me the most important findings are those showing how readily and effortlessly female friends praise each other’s appearance, and the power of such compliments to reassure us and lift our spirits.”
Further Research Findings Top ten most preferred parts of our bodies • Eyes • Boobs • Mouth • Bottom
• Hands • Nose • Shoulders • Ears
• Calves • Feet
Top ten least preferred parts of our bodies • Tummy • Thighs • Bottom • Boobs
• Nose • Hips • Feet • Knees
• Calves • Hands
The Power Of Friends To Boost Beauty Confidence Two thirds of women (66%) say they make a point of telling their friends that they look beautiful. A quarter of women (25%) have told a friend in the last month she was beautiful, whilst a fifth (22%) have told a friend she is beautiful in the last week. Over half of women (52%) tell their friends they look beautiful because they think it will make them feel happy about themselves. Nearly a quarter (23%) say they do this because they recognize how good it makes them feel when someone does the same to them.
Paying and Receiving Compliments On a scale of 1-10, with 1 being very difficult and 10 being very easy, 6 is the average figure for how easy women find it to pay compliments to their friends. In contrast, when it comes to receiving a compliment about their own beauty, on a scale of 1-10, with 1 being very difficult and 10 being very easy, 4 is the average figure women gave.
Where women think pressure to be beautiful comes from: • 28% of women say they put the biggest beauty pressure on themselves • 23% say they feel most pressure from society to be beautiful • 16% say they feel the most pressure to be beautiful from the media
How women describe themselves
Just 1% of women describe themselves as beautiful (this is down a percentage point from a Dove survey conducted in 2011 where 2% of women described themselves as beautiful). • 31% of women describe themselves as average • 23% describe themselves as ‘natural’ • 12% describe themselves as attractive
Qualitative study results On average, it took women in the sample 3.7 seconds to name a part of their body with which they were satisfied or which they regarded as a positive feature of their own appearance. In some case, the response was around eight seconds, a significant period of silence in a normal conversation. During this time there was often a noticeable increase in Beta waves (demonstrating a heightened sense of concentration and alertness). On average, women in the study each named 2.75 positive attributes about themselves. In most cases, however, participants tended to qualify their remarks with self-deprecating comments. When prompted to think about negative aspects of body image, most women showed a mild increase in anxiety, as measured by heart rate and, particularly, by rising levels of Galvanic Skin Response (GSR). They were also quicker to provide a response when asked about negative qualities – on average, 1.4 seconds. Source: Unilever. Unilever is one of the world’s leading suppliers of fast-moving consumer goods. Unilever has more than 400 brands, 14 of which generate sales in excess of $ 1 billion a year. Within the personal care market, it is a global leader in products for skin cleansing, deodorants and antiperspirants.
UVA and UVB rays break down hair proteins and cause color to fade, making hair dull and brittle so look for a hair product with
UV filters says Dr. Jessica Wu, Beverly Hills dermatologist. Like the pool but not green hair? Rinse your hair with tap water before getting into the pool. Plain water binds to your hair, making it less likely to absorb copper
EUROPEAN DIRECTOR Hans Diks EDITORIAL POLICY The National Hair & Skin Journal is 100% independent and is not beholden to, or influenced by, any individual investor, manufacturer or other commercial interest. The Journal does not pay for the use of submitted material but it will give credit to contributors. Wherever possible, we encourage writers not to include company or brand names unless they are necessary for a more complete understanding of the article. The National Hair & Skin Journal works hard to ensure that all published material is objective, fair and courteous. It reserves the right to edit material it deems to be overly commercial or that unnecessarily denigrates a competitor. The National Hair & Skin Journal has a history of profiling prominent personalities in the hair-management industry. These interviews are based upon the prominence of the candidate and requests by Journal readers. Interviewees do not pay to be profiled and there is no commercial relationship between interviewees and their advertising. ADVERTISING To place an advertisement or request a Media Kit, contact us at advertising@nationalhairjournal.com or call 626-709-6397 SUBSCRIPTIONS To subscribe, visit www.nhjsubs.com or write subscriptions@nationalhairjournal.com. LEGAL NOTICE The views expressed in The National Hair & Skin Journal are those of the individual author or contributor and not those of The National Hair & Skin Journal, its editors or staff. The Journal’s contents reflect the opinions of the authors and are not analyzed, peer-reviewed or otherwise investigated before publication. All authors and contributors are asked to disclose any interests they have of a commercial nature. The National Hair & Skin Journal makes no attempt to validate the sufficiency of such disclosures and makes no warranty, guarantee or other representation, expressed or implied, with respect to the accuracy or sufficiency of any information provided. The publication of an advertisement does not constitute on the part of The National Hair & Skin Journal a guarantee or endorsement of the quality or value of the advertised product or service or any of the representations or claims made by the advertiser. The National Hair & Skin Journal accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All articles and letters become the property of The National Hair & Skin Journal and may be edited for clarity, presentation and space. By allowing your articles, interviews and personal commentary to be used in The National Hair & Skin Journal, you are giving the publication permission to use these materials in its pages, website and other information materials. Advertisers are required to sign a formal advertising agreement indicating that they are not violating any trademarks or other intellectual properties. Full details are outlined in The National Hair & Skin Journal Media Kit. COPYRIGHT The material published in The National Hair & Skin Journal is copyrighted and may not be utilized in any form without the written consent of the editor.
Summer Hair Protection Remind Your Clients!
CONTRIBUTING CORRESPONDENTS James Toscano Bobbi Russell Mark Deo Toni Love Steven Dimanni, Editor Emeritus Marilyn Wayne
from the pool water - it’s the copper, not chlorine that turns your hair green. Shampoo or at least rinse off as soon as possible after getting out of the water.
THE NATIONAL HAIR & SKIN JOURNAL 39252 Winchester Road, #107-383 Murrieta, CA 92563 Tel: 626-709-6397 Info@NationalHairJournal.com Printed in USA
20â&#x20AC;&#x192; The National Hair Journal Summer 2013
21 The National Hair Journal Summer 2013
Hair
and
Skin Society News
From The Boardroom
Board members: Lisa Zimmerman, National Hair Centers, Phoenix, AZ, Bobbi Russell, Hair Therapy For Women, FL, Lucinda Beaty, Lucinda’s Hair, Jimmy “The General” Toscano, Toscano’s Hair Consultants, PA, Lonnie Gilbert, Apollo Seattle, WA and Gilberto Febles from Gilberto’s Hair Illusion in Miami, FL.
Welcome To The Summer/Fall 2013 Society Page – I hope everyone had a wonderful Summer. The goal of The Society is to provide hairloss professionals with marketing support and network partnership opportunities, so your Board of Directors is delighted to announce that Lonnie Gilbert from Apollo in Seattle, WA and Gilberto Febles from Gilberto’s Hair Illusion in Miami, FL have joined the management team. Lonnie and Gilberto are successful business owners and leading educators. We are proud to welcome them to the Society Board of Directors.
Meet Gilberto - Gilberto Febles has specialized in the art of hair replacement for over 35 years, training hair stylists all over the world and receiving accolades and awards from top companies like Paul Mitchell, Sammy, Sebastian, Image, Don Clipper, Razac, On-Rite, New Concepts, Silicium Technology, Hair Factory, New Man, New image, Great Lengths Extensions, Versacchi Institute, Hair Dreams, Maartin Parsons, Follea, CTR, Richard Farreli, just to name a few. For over 20 years he has been called upon by television networks like Univision, Telemundo, NBC, CBS, Mega, America TV to demonstrate his innovative techniques. Gilberto’s knowledge is only surpassed by his charisma that makes his clients and followers refer to him as, “The Guru of Hair Replacement.” Gilberto has appeared regularly on television shows like “Sabado Gigante”, “El Show de Cristina”, “Despierta America”, “Caliente”, “De Mananita”, “Al Rojo Vivo”, and many more. He has also been featured in magazines like “The National Hair Journal,” “Hair Show” and many more prestigious hair journals. In 1990, Gilberto opened his specialty salon in Florida, providing hair loss solutions for both men and women. He makes a special point of helping cancer patients during their radiation therapy. And of course there is also a glamorous side to the business and he has worked with personalities, artists and entertainers like Shakira, Sofia Vergara, Giselle Blondet, Aylin Mujica, Osmel Sousa, Gaby Spanic, Maria Celeste, Niurka Marcos, Marriane De la Fuente, Pita Ojeda, Maira Antonieta Duque, Susana Gonzalez, Virna Flores, Lucia Mendez, Lorena Rojas and Julio Sabala. Gilberto has created new techniques currently used around the world in Hair Weaving, Hair Extensions, Hair Replacement, and Hair Reconstruction just to name a few. His goal is to repair the hair using the most advanced techniques. The best way to describe Gilberto was said by Cristina (the “Oprah” of Hispanic media), “Gilberto is a Hair Surgeon without a scalpel.”
Meet Lonnie Gilbert– In 1986, Lonnie was in his thirties. His hair loss had been bothering him since he was 22. He hated being bald. He remembers trying everything he could to stop his hair loss and, of course, nothing worked. At the time he was working in the construction industry as a general contractor and always wore a hat. One Sunday morning, he was reading the local paper and he saw an advertisement for permanent hair replacement from Apollo. He couldn’t wait until Monday to go in for a consultation. He bought his first hair replacement system and it changed his life… the only thing he didn’t know at the time was how much it would also change his future! Two years later Lonnie purchased the Seattle Apollo studio with his wife and shortly after, they opened another location in Federal Way, Washington. Both offices are still in operation to this day. Over the next few years they expanded again, starting two more centers in Spokane and Bellingham Washington and took over another location in Sacramento California. In recognition of their achievements, the Gilberts were awarded ‘Dealer of the Year’ numerous times within the Apollo organization. In 1999, Lonnie was privileged to meet Randy Martin from New Image, one of the industry’s key innovators. Randy introduced him to new technologies and they became instant friends. Shortly afterwards, Lonnie joined New Image where he worked with Randy and Madeline to help grow the industry. Six months later, the hair replacement world was shocked by Randy’s sudden passing and for the next seven years, Lonnie travelled around the United States promoting New Image products, helping with consultations, custom designs and product training. One afternoon, Lonnie met someone else who would change his future, Jimmy “The General” Toscano and his wife, Linda. They were excited to discover that they both shared a commitment to passing on their experience and technical skills to other studios across the country, setting up special workshops and hands-on demonstrations. Never one to rest on his laurels, Lonnie established strong relationships with factories in China to study the process by which the hair replacement systems are manufactured. Lonnie is delighted to be a part of the elite team at The National Hair & Skin Society and hopes to be able to make a difference to better the industry.
www.hairskinsociety.org
Andrea Hayden, Director of The Hair Management Group, San Antonio, TX, Offers to share her knowledge You may have read Andrea Hayden’s article in the Spring 2013 issue of The Journal. Andrea started her career as a cosmetologist, after graduating in 1982 from Fox Technical High School San Antonio at the age of 16. For the first ten years of her career, she worked in premiere salons, continually seeking out the best solutions for her clients to maintain a healthy hair lifestyle. In 1993, Andrea opened her first business, ‘Salon Visage,’ with partner Maria Moreno. It quickly became one of the top multicultural salons in San Antonio, employing over 45 cosmetology professionals. However, the responsibilities of running the business didn’t allow Andrea to focus on her own education, so she began exploring ways to expand her styling skills to embrace physical wellness and inner beauty. Andrea had experienced health issues herself, including lupus, rheumatoid arthritis, and a thyroid condition that resulted in her own hair loss. These experiences led her to start studying trichology, the para-medical study of hair and scalp disorders. Understanding the body’s systems can reveal the underlying issues contributing to hair loss and these studies placed Andrea on the cutting edge of hair loss solutions. Andrea comments that, “Your life’s passion is rooted in your pain.” In 2005, Andrea sold her partnership in Salon Visage and started The Hair Management Group. She wanted to create a special environment for her clientele. One that felt less like a traditional salon and more like a medical spa. Clients with special issues had complete privacy and her undivided attention. Trichologists are trained in hair and scalp biology and learn how to recognize early signs of potential issues. Because they are not medical doctors, they do not diagnose or treat medical conditions, so Andrea partners with physicians for clients with medically induced hair loss. After a detailed consultation in the clinic and a digital microscopic hair and scalp analysis, Andrea makes an assessment and discusses treatment options, which may include hair detoxification, Low Level Laser Treatments (LLLT), scalp exfoliation, topical solutions and hair replacement. Andrea sees a mix of ethnic and Caucasian clients and notes that while they all have similar hair loss issues, ethnic clients tend to have more chemical and mechanical causes. She explains that ethnic hair is textured and when chemicals are improperly applied, extreme damage can result. Improper installation of hair extensions and tight braiding can also strain the hair and cause traction alopecia which can often be reversed if treated early. Andrea holds the designation of ‘Certified Natural Health Professional’ through The National Association of Certified Natural Health Professionals and is currently completing a certification program with the International Association of Trichologists in Sydney, Australia. In addition, Andrea is a Certified Hair Loss Professional though the Hair Loss Control Clinic and was recently named their Multi-Cultural Hair Loss Expert. Andrea was the recipient of the 2012 Lifetime Achievement Award for the Alamo City Beauty and Barber Association and in 2013 she received the San Antonio Business Journal’s Women in Leadership Entrepreneurial/Inspirational Leadership Award. Andrea has been featured in the February 2010 edition of Essence magazine where she was listed as one of seven hair loss experts in the country and requested. Andrea volunteers for the Look Good, Feel Better program with the American Cancer Society and in 2013 was appointed Director, International Association of Trichologists (USA). In this role, she will be responsible for all IAT operations in the United States, including IAT’s annual International Trichology Conference. A self-proclaimed education junkie, believes it is time to give back to the community that has provided her with such a rewarding career. Her ‘Business Success Coaching’ program provides guidance on marketing, business planning, space planning, front desk procedures, product selection and placement, private labeling human hair attachments, equipment and products, plus a myriad of ways to assist stylists and trichologists in recession-proofing their businesses. Her focus remains unchanged: to build establishments whose expertise extends beyond standard cosmetology into whole body wellness. She is married to Gene E. Hayden, Jr., Captain, United Stated Air Force retired. They have 2 puppies, Dolce and Gabbana.
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22 The National Hair Journal Summer 2013
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‹ Continued from Page 21
Society Member Interviews Anthony Provenzano Anthony was born in Italy. When he was a teenager he was already playing the clarinet and the saxophone with a band and making more money at one party than working in the salon for 5 days. But Anthony liked the creativity of hair styling and the way he could help improve his clients’ lives. Anthony was fortunate to find a teacher who later became his mentor. As luck would have it, the mentor was not only the owner of the best hair salon in town, he was also a musician. Anthony remembers when one of his former students opened up a hair salon right across from his teacher. The young stylist challenged his old master by placing a sign right outside his salon offering lower prices for his services. Now this was a small town in Italy with narrow streets and not a lot of competition so Anthony asked his teacher what he planned to do. The next morning, when Anthony went to work he found a sign in front of the salon door that read, “ WE FIX THE $30 HAIRCUT FOR $60!” A month later, the challenger threw in the towel. After Anthony served in the Italian army, he went back home and bought a salon for 100,000 lire. One year later, he sold the salon for 150,000 lire and bought a ticket to the United States. He ended up in New York City, enrolled in college to learn English and seized every opportunity to expand his hair styling skills. Two and a half years later, he bought his first studio and added a second facility shortly after. Anthony’s Hair Salon is exclusively a men’s salon with 4 private rooms. Services range from regular haircuts to gray-reduction, highlights, and hair replacement. Anthony’s has an eclectic clientele of celebrities (many from the music business), politicians and businessmen. A constant challenge is finding reliable information about products and supplies. Clients often discover a commercial product and get to like it, only to see it get pulled off the market. Redken is a good example. Anthony invest a lot of time making sure his clients choose products that are right for them and won’t lead to unpleasant surprises later. When he teaches a class, Anthony tells his students that whether you are giving a haircut or correcting a color, “you have to feel like an actor delivering a performance.” He also advises young stylists to keep fit, eat well and get a good night’s sleep. Anthony is an early riser. After doing a half hour of exercise and twenty minutes of meditation, he is ready to take on the world. The work he states is a visual art, and if you want to be called an artist, you have to earn the title! Anthony is not only a great hair stylist; he is a poet and has published two books of bi-lingual poetry. Last March, he participated in an International poetry competition in Italy and he won first place. The name of the competition was “Instituto Jaci, Concorso Internazionale di Poesia Salvatore Quasimodo” in the city of Messina, Italy. Anthony’s pen name for his poetry writing is Nino Provenzano. You can visit Anthony’s website at www.anthonymenshairsalon.com.
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24 The National Hair Journal Summer 2013
View from The Top
Hair Club & Bosley Leaders Share Their Vision In April 2013, Aderans completed the acquisition of Hair Club after many months of negotiation. To learn more about this epic event and what it means to the hairloss industry – and to the consumer - The Journal met with Armen Markarian, President and Chief Executive Officer of Bosley, Hair Club, and Aderans Hair Goods and Joshua Schechter, Chairman of the Board of Aderans America Holdings, Director of Aderans Company.
Hair & Skin Journal: In the last edition of The Journal we ran an article outlining Hair Club’s background and the battle to acquire this industry icon. Where do we stand today? Joshua Schechter: Today we own 100 percent of Hair Club. We closed the acquisition in April of 2013, and it’s now officially one of our subsidiaries. It’s one of the portfolio companies of Aderans here in the United States along with Bosley and other Aderans Hair Goods brands including International Hair Goods, Rene of Paris, Revlon, and other smaller brands. HSJ: In Japan, Aderans offers a complete line of hair care programs through its company owned salons. That full-service offering has never been available over here. The missing element was the retail chain. Now through the Hair Club deal you are finally able to offer that. What are your plans for Aderans in North America?
Armen Markarian: We now have an opportunity to bring together the two best known and most trusted names in hair loss in the U.S. to offer comprehensive hairloss solutions to men and women across the US and Canada. Bosley and Hair Club will retain their separate identities, given all the equity that’s gone into building those brands, but we will be exploring synergies that will benefit the consumer. The most obvious benefit is the fact that one organization can now provide all proven solutions to the marketplace.
Armen Markarian
Bosley and Hair Club will retain their separate identities, given all the equity that’s gone into building those brands… HSJ: The president of Aderans Co. Ltd., in Tokyo stated that he wants to make Aderans
a “world brand.” How do you reconcile that goal with maintaining the separate and strong identities of Bosley and Hair Club? AM: Aderans operates outside of Japan under a variety of names. It has a number of different brands in its portfolio. It is a well-known brand in Japan, but outside of that market and maybe one or two other Asian countries, it is not a name that people immediately identify with hair loss. Bosley and Hair Club in the U.S., on the other hand, are recognized as hair loss leaders, and a number of brands that Aderans owns in Europe also have a trusted track record as companies that cater to the hair loss market. We now have an opportunity to bring all these brands together under a single umbrella, retaining their identities and all that is best about them, but providing the efficiencies of that umbrella whether it’s through the supply chain, staffing, shared services or whatever it may be. JS: An obvious benefit is combined research and development to continue to provide the best products into the marketplace. HSJ: When we talk about the different subsidiaries, each of them is a leader in its own market segment. If we take synthetic hair, Cyberhair is state of the art. In the field of men’s hair replacement, Hair Club wrote the script in terms of sales and marketing. And Bosley proudly states it is “the world’s most experienced hair restoration company.” Is it Aderan’s philosophy to seek out cutting edge technologies or companies to become a leader in each specialty? JS: Absolutely. AM: Both in technology and market leadership.
HSJ: You talked earlier about the efficiencies that come from having affiliate companies that are all independent yet synergistically linked. How do you combine that expertise to achieve marketing efficiency? AM: I’ll speak from the perspective of the U.S.; as I stated earlier, we’re going to retain the individual brand identities and the marketing that supports those identities. In other words, Bosley and Hair Club will not change their messaging or creative to accommodate any reorganization of shared services that may be happening in the background. In other words, Bosley and Hair Club will not change their messaging or creative to accommodate any reorganization of shared services that may be happening in the background. air Club and Bosley are very good at sending H out a message that resonates with the public, informing them that we are trusted hair loss experts with close to 80 years of combined experience. When people want to do something about their hair loss, at some point they’re going to have to deal with either the Hair Club name or the Bosley name and decide to go with them or not. We are very good at getting that message out, and we’re going to continue doing that. Now, there are some other synergies that we’re working on and some we have implemented already, but in terms of the messaging, each brand is being kept separate. HSJ: For many years, the two segments of the hair loss market have been in fierce competition. The non-surgical sale consultants would ask prospects, “do you really want to go under the knife?” And the medical community looked with some disdain on the non-medical side as “the wiggies.” How do you bring those two historically antagonistic elements together?
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25 The National Hair Journal Summer 2013
AM: Hair Club is the perfect example of how that can work. They’ve been offering surgical hair restoration since 2002. Medical services have lived comfortably alongside their other offerings of hair systems and hair therapies. What is exciting about today’s opportunity is capitalizing on the synergies. Hundreds of thousands of people each year raise their hands and tell Bosley and Hair Club, “I want to do something about my hair loss.” Well, we now have the opportunity to comfortably, cooperatively and in the best interests of the consumer, take advantage of synergistic sales opportunities. People who come to Bosley but who may not be candidates for surgery now have the opportunity of going to our sister company Hair Club to take advantage of alternative solutions. And clients of Hair Club who are ready to move on to surgery can be routed to Bosley for their procedures. HSJ: Do you have a philosophy about the thinning hair market? Are there two totally separate individuals; the man with thinning hair who would never consider surgery and the man who will only settle for living, growing hair? Or do you see it as a continuum where you incubate clients through something nonchallenging like a hair system with the view to upmarketing them into surgery that has a higher profit? AM: Bosley has only one offering, and most people who come to Bosley have already considered other options. So for those people, the decision to go forward becomes just a matter of cost or fear of surgery. Men and women who come to Hair Club on the other hand are introduced to all the options, and then based on the goals they want to achieve, their lifestyle and a number of other factors, they are guided to one therapy or another. If it’s hair systems and hair therapies, they are taken care of right there in Hair Club. If it’s surgery, they can go to Bosley. Now that Hair Club and Bosley are part of the same family, that process will be much more efficient with 23 full-time surgical offices scattered around the country to accommodate patients coming from Hair Club locations. JS: I think it’s about offering the best and the broadest range of hair loss solutions. So in the case of Bosley we have the most reliable and most experienced network of doctors across the country. We believe we provide the best service and high quality outcomes on the surgical side. In the case of Hair Club, we have one of the most well known brands, and what’s considered to be one of the best products on the market as well. So they are different solutions for different people at different times in their lives. It’s not so much a continuum as it is the fullest and best portfolio of service and products. HSJ: So one service is not a stepping stone to the other? JS: There is a time, a place, and a need for both and that always will be the case. That’s why both brands have thrived for so many years. HSJ: One penthouse can only accommodate so many people, but are we going to see Hair Club relocate to Beverly Hills? AM: I don’t want to foreclose any possibility, but at this point Hair Club has a very strong operation that’s run by an outstanding team at its corporate headquarters in Boca Raton, Florida, and that’s where we’re going to leave them. HSJ: Is the industry likely to see a full-service hair center under an Aderans, Bosley, or Hair Club banner where all of these services are promoted and delivered in one location? AM: That’s certainly a scenario. What is exciting about all this is that we didn’t make the mistake of going into this thinking we knew all the answers. We had some ideas and we’ve implemented a number of them, but we look forward to bringing together the best minds in both companies to figure out what those optimal synergies are and what’s the best way of taking advantage of them. We’re just scratching the surface. HSJ: Josh, the investors you represent wanted Aderans to focus on its core hair business.
What can we expect to see as a result of that ‘refocusing?’ JS: I think you’re seeing it. When you look back over the years that I’ve been on the Aderans Board, you’ll see that we’ve brought in new leadership, for example, Mr. Nobuo Nemoto, who returned as CEO of the company to drive profitability. You’ve seen the company focus on best services and best practices and now we’re in our third year of profit growth as an operating company. So those are all great things, and because we were able to improve the core businesses a few years back, we were in the right position to make a transformational acquisition like Hair Club. HSJ: What else can we expect as a result of ‘refocusing’? JS: Refocusing means having businesses that are focused on near-term and long-term profitability. It means taking non-core assets, as
Armen Markarian
you said, whether it’s real estate in Manhattan or golf courses in Japan, out of the picture. Side ventures like these need to be managed and that means that’s less time on your core business. So, by getting rid of the noise, if you will, we created the foundation for the good results that we’ve seen over the last 36 months. AM: Bosley has had record revenues and profits the past three fiscal years. HSJ: What can Aderans do for Hair Club that Regis could not? AM: I can’t speak for what Regis did or didn’t do or what their intention was, but one thing to remember is Aderans acquired Hair Club because it had always been interested in Hair Club and it always saw Hair Club as the closest thing in the U.S. to its own business model in Japan. Aderans centers in Japan are operated virtually the same way and offer the same types of services, therapies, and systems as Hair Club. So, the two biggest operations of their kind in the world are now coming together and important synergies are going to be realized, whether it’s in production or simply expanding the market. We will share best practices, learn from each other, and certainly there will be benefits in the management of cost and infrastructure. Also, both Bosley and Hair Club have headquarters operations and we have been looking at synergies that might be available in back office functions with both those operations, whether it’s in Human Resources, IT, Legal, or Call Center operations, those kinds of things. HSJ: The Journal met with Paul Finkelstein shortly after he purchased Hair Club, and the expectation at the time was that Regis owned salons and spas would refer clients to Hair Club, but of course that never happened. What went wrong? JS: It’s hard to say what went wrong from a Regis perspective, but we would say that historically it has been very difficult to pull a customer out of the salon chair into the consulting chair, whether it’s at Bosley or Hair Club. That’s been a difficult tactic for us. AM: People who come to Bosley and Hair Club are there to talk about what can be done about their hair loss. People going into a salon are there primarily one purpose only, and it’s not necessarily a consultation. We’ve got two
natural partners, Hair Club and Bosley that will work harmoniously together. HSJ: Given the marketing resources of these companies, are we going to see more advertising and sales promotion in the hair loss market? Could this be “the tide that lifts all boats?” AM: That marketing muscle is already there and it will continue to be flexed. We’re keeping both brands in the marketplace and the marketing messaging behind those brands. We haven’t looked at making advertising changes at this time. We believe, to some extent, that Bosley and Hair Club do indeed create the market by virtue of their powerful presence and messaging that educates the market. I f that results in tides that lift all boats because people visit us or look us up online and then decide to go elsewhere, then so be it. That may be a function we provide in the marketplace, but our interest is in optimizing that opportunity within the Bosley/Hair Club funnel, if you will. HSJ: Josh, the hair loss market is unstructured and difficult for outsiders to understand. Even Hair Club took a long time to hit its stride. What led you to invest in this category? JS: When we looked at Aderans specifically and we’ve been investing in Aderans since 2004 - we saw it as a company that had been around for 40 years; a company that had an excellent reputation; and as a company that had very good profitability and a worldwide presence. All of those things led us to believe that in the long term Aderans was the foundation for what could be eventually an even bigger and better company. So, for us it was all there - a good foundation of business, brands, and people. HSJ: When you look at the hair marketplace today, do still you see it as a dynamic market? JS: Absolutely. There are a lot of opportunities to continue to grow internationally. There are opportunities to get into new markets, particularly the women’s market, which in the United States is a big opportunity for Aderans. HSJ: Aderans could diversify vertically by introducing new anti-aging or personal care solutions, but you have chosen to diversify horizontally and offer different types of hair loss solutions. What is the thinking behind this? JS: I’d say for the last 40 years, whether you’re talking about Aderans, Hair Club, or Bosley, which are the 3 core brands of Aderans worldwide, they all have that commonality of hair loss solutions. So, we will continue to focus on those opportunities. If there’s something where we feel we can leverage our capabilities and go into other cosmetic areas… anti-aging solutions as you suggest… then it’s something we may look at. HSJ: When we look at the hair loss market, it seems like the tectonic plates are shifting. A number of collisions are about to happen; the cosmetic companies are discovering thinning hair. They look at the demographics and see an aging population that refuses to grow old. Shiseido has just signed a $4M deal with RepiCel, a cell research company and L’Oreal in France is investing in medical research. So we have the cosmetic companies eyeing our niche market that used to be protected. Similarly, we see doctors introducing their own Rx solutions. And don’t let’s forget the Asian hair system manufacturers who are looking to expand beyond low margin production into product sales and distribution. So you’ve got the cosmetic people, manufacturers and the medical community all converging on this small marketplace. Is that one of the reasons why it made sense to move preemptively and grab the leading companies while you still could? JS: The marketplace, particularly here in the United States, is still not a mainstream market. It remains a niche market, and I don’t believe the larger players have yet provided any sort
of silver bullet. I believe that between Hair Club and Bosley we have the best portfolio of products and services for future hair loss solutions. HSJ: Hair loss is profoundly troubling. People commit suicide because of hair loss. We’ve read surveys where people say they would give up sex to keep their hair. There are all kinds of bizarre, but powerful, statistics. And yet, despite its importance, we only satisfy 5 percent of the people with hair loss. Here’s this huge personal problem, there are great solutions available, and yet 95 percent of hair loss sufferers don’t come to us. What are we doing wrong? AM: I’m not sure we’re doing anything wrong. I think it’s a process of educating people. There’s always been certain stigma in society about doing something to better yourself. It’s tied to vanity. We’ve certainly come a long way in every other area of cosmetic enhancement, for example, cosmetic surgery, but hair loss is one of the last ones to gain acceptance. Trends come and go; shorter hair, longer hair, shaved heads; all of them get accepted to some extent, but hair loss, regardless of who you are, is still a troubling issue for most people. Our messaging is designed to convey that it’s okay to be concerned about your hair loss, and if you ever decide to do something about it, we’re here for you. Come to us. Talk to us. We’ll find the right solution for you. HSJ: There are few things more personal than, say, erectile dysfunction and yet we see advertising for Viagra everywhere. There are few things more devastating than a mastectomy and yet we see the Angelina Jolie, one of the most beautiful women in the world, saying she has had this operation. We even see a president shaving his head to show support for a member of his Secret Service who has a family member with cancer. Why is hairloss not part of this new transparency? AM: I think people are genuinely interested in what we do, but to take that next step, that’s a leap. There’s a cost involved. As Dr. Bosley used to say, “If what we’re doing was free, there would be a line out the door.” Then you have to overcome that uncertainty about the results. Will it work? What am I going to look like? This is one of the few areas where a person coming to us has a vision, a dream, if you will, of what they will look like when they get what they consider a full head of hair. It may be different from what we would recommend or see as necessary. The challenge is not to burst that bubble and yet to provide him or her with the right solution, and with a satisfactory result best designed to manage those expectations. HSJ: Josh, is there any question that you wished I had asked you that I wasn’t smart enough to think of? JS: No, I like the questions that have been coming. They will be good for our strategic planning meetings in the future. AM: One final comment - there’s always a certain amount of anxiety in any acquisition of one company by another. We experienced some of that, but what really struck me was the enthusiasm of the Hair Club team and the Bosley team in working together. It certainly made some of those synergies that we’ve accomplished or are contemplating much easier. There are strong people on both sides and they took to each other very quickly, sharing war stories as former competitors and now all of a sudden working together. As a CEO, you couldn’t ask for a better circumstance than that. Aderans Co. Ltd., Management Philosophy Our corporate mission, as the Aderans Group, is to utilize our hair-related businesses to help as many people as possible acquire the physical and emotional qualities that underpin the realization of dreams and promote a good impression, and in so doing, bring smiles to faces and support happy lives.
26 The National Hair Journal Summer 2013
A
The Science Behind Apira
pira Science Inc. is a pioneer in
the application of low level laser light therapy to control and reverse male pattern hair loss or MPB. In June 2012, the company received ISO 13485:2003, which is a standard that medical device manufacturers must incorporate into their quality management systems. This certification demonstrates a company’s ability to meet regulatory and customer requirements including risk management and the ability to maintain effective processes specific to the safe design, manufacture and distribution of medical devices. To learn more about Apira’s recent achievements – and to see where the company is headed – The Journal met with Jeff Braile, President of Apira’s Medical Device Division.
Hair & Skin Journal: A number of good things have happened to Apira Science this year, but before we go into those achievements, a quick question. “Apira Science”… what does “Apira” mean? Jeff Braile: Apira Science is all about appearance. We create products for the rejuvenation of both the hair and face. HSJ: It’s the science behind your light therapy devices that we want to talk about today; you recently received ISO certification. What is the significance of this? JB: ISO 13485 is a medical device standard. It states that your company employs a quality system that applies to every portion of the business; from the way you make your product to the way you handle your customers. It’s all encompassing. HSJ: Who administers ISO compliance within Apira Science? JB: Our Chief Operating Officer is in charge. Key department managers participate in regular meetings where we discuss our
quality policy. Management is required to demonstrate their knowledge of the ISO rules and regulations along with any changes to our internal processes that are necessary. We also conduct an annual audit to make sure we are keeping to our goals. This process makes sure that we’re constantly evolving and producing a safe and effective product that has real benefits for our customers. HSJ: This is a major commitment, so clearly this is something that is important to you. JB: ISO 13485 is not only important, it is required if you want to take a medical device into 90 percent of the world markets today. HSJ: Has any other laser company managed to secure this recognition? JB: Lexington International is the only one that I’m aware of. HSJ: ISO is just one measure of your company’s performance. The cutting edge of your operation is the actual benefits you offer the patient or client. We understand you have just completed some clinical trials and that you’re pleased with the results. JB: Yes, we have received a 510K clearance from the FDA, which shows that our iGrow platform is safe and effective. We conducted clinical trials and the results were presented at the American Society of Lasers in Medicine conference in April where the study received the award for Best Translational Research. This award is for scientific research that helps to make findings from basic science useful for practical applications that enhance human health and wellbeing. Our study results indicated that individuals treated for 16 weeks had an average increase of over 39% in terminal hair counts HSJ: Embarking on a study of this kind is complex, and hugely expensive. You had to be very confident about the results.
JB: We’ve been in this business for quite a while. We’ve had the Revage670 laser that was primarily sold to physicians and hair clinics. Recently we developed the iGrow, which is a portable home-use device that offers new levels of convenience and effectiveness. We believe that low-level laser therapy is extremely effective for people with androgenetic alopecia, but still there are not many adults in the mainstream public who are aware of this treatment option. The iGrow was developed to fulfill the need for an effective laser therapy treatment that’s easy to use. HSJ: The FDA has become very strict. In fact, it’s been criticized for approving drugs and medical procedures too easily. So this was not an easy recognition for you to get, was it? JB: You are right. A few years ago you could do independent studies that were company sponsored and submit the results as your clinical data. Today that has all changed, everything needs to be independently prepared and qualified. This means you need to contract out the research and retain consultants to write up the study protocol. You will also need to contract with a
JB: It shows that the product is safe and effective. Hair loss professionals and their customers can be sure that the iGrow will deliver the highest standard of safety in a laser solution that’s proven to be effective. HSJ: We often see people referring to ‘FDA clearance’ for their devices without doing their own research. When you got FDA clearance for the iGrow, was that FDA clearance specific to you, or a type of product? JB: Our clearance is specific to our device. HSJ: Can other devices claim they have a similar or equivalent configuration? JB: When a product category gets developed and accepted the FDA, the FDA may decide it has reliable evidence to show that there is a substantial equivalence for other similar products. In these circumstances, if you have a similar product, you may be able to get clearance without doing additional research. That is certainly not the case in the hair market today as there are only three approved products for laser hair growth. HSJ: The iGrow laser is a very unique design, so we assume it would be difficult for someone else to get a free ride on your research. JB: We don’t believe that anyone can get a free ride. Our clearance is specific to our product and our design. But our reputation and credentials go beyond the FDA clearance; it’s also about meeting all of the Safety Standards, ISO Standards, Electrical Standards and Good Manufacturing Practices. HSJ: Is there any other qualification award or certification that would be important, or Control Regulatory Organization (CRO) have you already got all the seals of approval to monitor your study and ensure that it is that you need? done according to Institutional Review Board JB: We’re constantly looking and researching. (IRB) standards. This is time consuming Right now, we are planning on taking our and expensive. But in the end, the results are product to all the major world markets, and verifiable and that’s the main thing for us. each major market has specific requirements. We want to get the word out that low-level Over the next few years we’re certainly going laser therapy grows hair. to be meeting new guidelines and getting HSJ: You talked about the importance of new clearances from other regulatory bodies. having expert advice. Who was on your team? That’s what it takes to be a leader in this field. JB: We used a variety of outside consultants HSJ: Apira Science has a history of developing to develop the protocol and ensure CRO professional light therapy devices. Some of compliance. All our physicians had significant your early research was based on technology backgrounds in clinical research and either from Northern Europe. You’ve evolved from had experience in low-level light treatment floor-standing lasers to the latest portable and/or hair devices. Where restoration. do you see The the company statistician going from who did the here? statistical J B : We ’r e analysis was going to the former continue head of to develop statistics for additional the FDA. light-based Un l i k e t h e therapies. original We currently HairMax hold utility research, our patents on study was a several other true doublepersonal care blind placeboapplications. based study. We have a new We had to p ro d u c t i n develop a red development light placebo that we hope device so that to introduce neither the in early 2014. ISO Certificate of Registration doctors nor HSJ: Is your the subjects focus on hair knew if they were using an iGrow or a growth or enhancing health and appearance placebo. Most of the other studies used white on a broader level? light as a control device. JB: We feel that the iGrow is the optimal HSJ: How long did the study last? solution for hair growth. It covers the JB: Our study was 16 weeks (4 months). entire scalp, it has the correct amount of HSJ: Were you measuring hair count or the light, and it’s reasonably priced. It is also weight of the hair? comfortable and it has an entertainment JB: Hair count. function to encourage use. So I think we’re HSJ: What does FDA clearance mean to salon pretty good with hair growth devices. As owners and their customers? far as other developments, we’re looking
at other phototherapy applications, as you would expect. HSJ: Light therapy has been used for wound healing and even weight loss. Are these kinds of things candidates for Apira? JB: Anything that’s scientifically proven is a potential. We have patents for facial applications and there may be more uses for our platform on the scalp. We’ve looked at things such as psoriasis treatment as a potential for some type of light-based therapy. Consequently, any treatment applications for light based therapies utilizing accepted wavelengths are things that we’re going to explore. HSJ: We recently interviewed the team behind the ARTAS device, the robot that harvests hair. Is there an opportunity to partner with emerging technologies like this? For example, light therapy used after hair transplantation jump-starts that transplanted hair into anagen and gives you about a two-week advance in hair growth after surgery. Are these avenues that you could explore? JB: Yes. We designed the iGrow with the hair transplant surgeon in mind. The spacing columns inside the hood can be moved to the extreme front and back of the iGrow so they don’t touch any of the affected areas. We already have a number of transplant surgeons who use the iGrow. It’s a natural fit. HSJ: Have you found the sweet spot in the light therapy marketplace between the power and coverage of a hood laser and the convenience of a portable laser? Was that your strategy? JB: Absolutely. We didn’t just arbitrarily determine the dosage. Some people in the hair industry have said, “If this guy’s got 60 diodes, I’m going to put 80 in and that’ll work twice as well, and we can sell it for more money,” but in reality, there’s a scale called the Arndt Schulz curve that shows that there’s an optimum dosage for all light-based therapies. It’s about three to four joules per treatment, so our product with its 51 light sources puts out approximately 3 joules over 25 minutes which is just where you want to be. When you start getting up to 100 or 200 diodes, you’re not getting any additional benefit. Maybe your procedure takes less time, but you’re spending a lot more money for the convenience. HSJ: When you place diodes in a baseball cap, or any kind of headgear, do you have to maintain a certain structure in order to align the diodes and achieve the necessary coverage? JB: You need to bathe the scalp in red light of certain intensity. There’s still a lot that’s not fully understood about laser therapy and one of those things is how much of this light is actually absorbed. One falsehood I need to clear up is the belief that more power means the light penetrates deeper. The light doesn’t penetrate at all. It’s absorbed, and that absorption initiates a chemical reaction that causes enhanced cellular activity. One thing we do know is that the body has a limited capacity to absorb this light and based on the research we’ve seen, we believe we have designed the optimum system. HSJ: There is a lot of misunderstanding about how lasers work, what they do, and what people can and cannot claim. Could you provide some guidelines for professionals? JB: What you can and cannot claim is based on the actual product you are using. There are a handful of products that have an FDA clearance. If a product is FDA cleared, it’s a medical device and you can claim it promotes hair growth. There’s no such thing as a ‘cosmetic device.’ It’s just ‘non-medical.’ Over time you’ll see non-medical products come under increasing scrutiny and manufacturers will either have to secure medical clearance or be removed from the market. HSJ: Can manufacturers quote the proven benefits of other laser devices to help sell their own products or services? For example, could a manufacturer say, “The XYZ device is a laser that has been accepted by the FDA
27 The National Hair Journal Summer 2013
as a device that grows hair. Our laser has the same number of diodes so you can expect the HSJ: We talked earlier about the research team that helped you with your clinical studies. same results.” Who are the other executives who helped bring this product to market? JB: Each and every device needs to be cleared by the FDA on its own merits. Laser diodes JB: Morgan Pepitone is our Chief Financial Officer. He is also in charge of our regulatory are not all the same. Distance of the light source to the scalp is also a big factor. Then there and quality systems. Morgan makes certain we keep our standards high and meet all the is the issue of patient compliance. All of these elements combine to create different patient requirements for the US and worldwide markets. Nick Brox, our CEO, is the leader of the outcomes. The problem with clinical lasers, for example, is that clients have to sit under a company and he keeps us solidly focused on our company’s objectives. Then we have our ISO device for an extended period of time. Often times they’ll move, change positions or be on manager, Mike Martinson, who deals with the mountain of paperwork that is required for their iPhone during treatment. All of which could vary the distance from the light all of our certifications. When we have any product issues or returns for any reason, source by up to five inches. This is important because inexpensive laser the cause has to be logged, evaluated and, if needed, corrective actions diodes rapidly lose energy with distance. We’ve done university testing must be implemented. It’s quite a commitment and we take it very that shows that some diodes, with a mere three-inch variation in seriously. It is easy for people in the industry to think “What can distance from the scalp, have no therapeutic effect. The iGrow is I get that is almost the same or cheaper”? But this isn’t a market fixed at two and a half centimeters from the scalp at all times. where it is smart to cut corners. There’s a lot that goes on behind HSJ: Where can people wanting to get started in light therapy the scenes to ensure that you are producing a quality medical turn for more information? product in the highly regulated medical device industry. JB: One of the most important things is to understand the HSJ: So the message is, “If you’re going to do it, do it right!” limitations of light therapy. I think Hair Journal readers are JB: You really don’t have a choice. If you cut corners, sooner good at managing expectations and that’s very important or later it will catch up with you. We had an unexpected because you don’t want clients coming in and thinking that FDA audit one year before we got our FDA clearance. We if they are a Hamilton 6, that they’re going to grow all weren’t making medical claims. Like lots of other companies, their hair back. We understand that our product is just one we believed we were marketing a cosmetic device, but the of many tools hair loss professionals can utilize in their cosmetic label is just a myth. It’s a loophole. As you said, iGrow Hero treatment of hair loss. if you’re going to do it, do it right, and that means doing HSJ: What support training and assistance does Apira your own research! Science provide? HSJ: One of my jobs as an editor is to try and peer over the JB: We offer full training, as well as sales materials and horizon, so I invite you to jump forward in time and tell us retail displays to showcase the product in a professional where Apira Science will be in 5 years’ time. manner. We also offer a six-month money-back satisfaction JB: We will be marketing the iGrow globally and there will guarantee, plus a full year product warranty. Also, we provide be an iGrow professional model on sale in some markets that the money-back satisfaction guarantee to our distributors and I can’t really talk about today, but it will be different from their customers. our current model. We will also have a facial product for wrinkles and HSJ: We know from other studies that light therapy is equally effective for both sexes, but acne. We plan to utilize our patented platforms for whatever new light therapy the FDA requires you to demonstrate this device by device. Do you have studies underway treatments make commercial sense. We won’t do “me too” products, we focus to demonstrate that iGrow works just as well on women? on developing unique applications. JB: Yes. Our initial IRB study encompassed both men and women and we are about halfway HSJ: Apira Science has made a major commitment to clinical research, but in through a new female study that should be completed this summer. We expect it to show the final analysis, it’s really about how about how you look and feel. Numbers are excellent results the same way that we did in our male study. fine, but it’s the bathroom mirror that’s the final arbiter. HSJ: One final question, and this is your opportunity to be commercial, why should a salon JB: That’s exactly right. Does it really matter how many more hairs you grow as long owner choose iGrow over all those other devices? as your hair looks better. Hair counts are medical. You need the numbers to document JB: We developed iGrow to incorporate all that’s known in science about low-level laser performance, but in reality, a client who buys the iGrow doesn’t want to know that they therapy. We believe that iGrow is the best solution available today because it was developed grew 40 percent more hair; they simply want their hair to look better. People don’t get utilizing our decade long experience in this industry. The iGrow combines the best of excited about percentages, they care about their appearance. And that is exactly the goal of technology in a convenient and easy to use platform. The main thing to understand is that our company. We want to help people to look their best! for low-level laser therapy to be effective, it has to be used regularly. Successful treatment needs to be an experience that you can commit to. With clinical hood lasers, clients have Apira Science, Inc. has been a pioneer in Low Level Laser Therapy (LLLT) for over a to go to an office or clinic at least three times a week. This, of course is nearly impossible decade. Their latest product, the iGrow, is the result of Apira Science, Inc.’s experience, for most clients. An important point to remember is that a consistent treatment regimen scientific innovation and knowledge of hair growth through the application of LLLT. yields positive results. Our clinical study was based on therapy done four days a week for This patented home use device is easy to use, requires no manual movement and four months. If you do that, you are going to get the maximum benefit. The iGrow’s design offers full scalp coverage. The iGrow incorporates Apira Science’s proprietary dual provides complete scalp coverage, requires no manual movement, it is designed to be used at light Laser and LED design. Equipped with headphones and an iPod/MP3 interface, home. The iPod/headphone feature makes it fun and encourages use. I can’t think of a better the iGrow is easy and fun to use while providing effective hair growth therapy. For solution for LLLT hair growth and we believe that we have addressed all of the shortcomings additional information please visit www.igrowlaser.com. of the existing treatment options. In other words, we developed a better product.
Stubble Trouble?
Flash Reports
Facial Hair Transplants
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Houston, TX. 09/13 - Fueled by recent changes in tastes and the fashion world’s recent enthusiastic celebration of everything mustache, the whisker is on the rise. The fact that some have fewer facial follicles than others is where Houston Hair Restoration surgeon, Dr. Bernard Arocha of Arocha Hair Restoration, comes in. He has noticed an uptick in demand for facial hair transplants among those seeking more stubble. Facial hair transplants are identical to the modern hair transplant techniques used to address hair loss on the scalp. Hair follicles are harvested from areas of dense growth - typically the back of the scalp and inserted one-by-one to fill in patchy areas in the mustache and/or beard areas. The number of follicles transplanted can range from a few hundred to more than 1,000, depending on the patient’s goals. “As hard as they try, some men simply lack the density of follicles needed to grow a thick, healthy looking mustache or stubble,” said Dr. Arocha. “As tastes have changed and facial hair has become more accepted and embraced, we’re seeing more patients who believe a thicker mustache or stubble makes them look more masculine, mature and dignified. Ultimately, they are looking for a boost in confidence.” Recent research confirms that women prefer stubble. A study published in the journal Evolution & Human Behavior found that the vast majority of women found that a man sporting a 10-day heavy beard is more attractive than when he’s clean-shaven or has light stubble. The researchers hypothesized that the ability to grow facial hair strongly influences people’s judgments of a man’s socio-sexual attributes - their maturity, masculinity and virility. “We work to give the face the balance and symmetry necessary for an attractive appearance by filling in the patches that can make him look less healthy and less mature,” said Dr. Arocha.
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28â&#x20AC;&#x192; The National Hair Journal Summer 2013