EDUCATION
MARKETING
MEDICAL
LIBRARY
More than a Good Hair Day
What’s with PRP?
Don’t Re-use Them!
Amy Gibson
HairUWear CMO, Mike Ferrara shares his vision
John Satino explains
Danger from cancer wigs
Actor, Designer, Author… Hero!
The National Hair Journal
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Volume 19 No 71
The Professional Publication of Hair and Skin Rejuvenation
Andy Calls It Quits
New President for LaserCap
Industry Icon Hangs Up his Filaments Andy Wright, founder of On Rite, a leading hairgoods distributor, has announced his retirement, effective January 29, 2016. Andy was admired for his Irish sense of humor and goodwill as much as his remarkable business success. OnRite was sold to the Hiking Group in 2010 and subsequently renamed Hair Visions. The Hiking Group also acquired New Image, giving the Chinese company access to two of the largest distributors in North America. Hair replacement and restoration services in the US are now largely controlled by Asian companies - Aderans acquired the world’s largest hair transplant group, Bosley, in 2009 and Hair Club in 2010. They also own International Hair Goods, and Rene of Paris.
Hair Growth from Spinal Cord of Mice Transplanted with Pluripotent Hair Follicle Stem Cells
San Diego, CA – A California company,
AntiCancer Inc., has announced new hair growth from the spinal cord of mice that were transplanted with hair follicles containing pluripotent stem cells. Prior research indicated that hair follicles contain stem cells that can differentiate into nerve and other types of cells that can be used for regenerative medicine. In a businesswire.com press release, Charlene Cooper, AntiCancer Inc. Vice President and COO commented, “It was a surprise to see long hairs growing from the spinal cord of mice that were repaired with hair follicle stem cells for spinal cord injury. This phenomenon indicates that there may be factors in the spine that could be useful for promoting hair growth from the scalp for people with hair loss.
Winter 2015
“Donald Trump – “The Hair”
The Donald has lent his name to several perfumes that carry the Trump name and cachet. ‘Donald Trump, The Fragrance’ was the first in line, followed by ‘Success’ in 2012 and ‘Empire,’ launched in 2015. In view of his high visibility and much publicized virility it can only be a matter of weeks before the visionary entrepreneur proposes, ‘Donald Trump, The Hair.’
Cleveland, OH. 01/16 - John Vincent has been appointed president of Cleveland-based LaserCap, a wearable FDA cleared medical device for women in the treatment of hair loss and the promotion of hair growth. Vincent originally managed his own hair replacement business, before assuming a sales and marketing role at MHR, a major hair transplant group later acquired by Bosley/ Aderans. Most recently, he has been managing the Laser Hair Therapy clinic in California. As the new President of LaserCap® Company, John will share his experience and connections with company founder, Dr. Michael Rabin. The Lasercap LCPRO retails for about $3,000. Dr. Bauman Launches ‘salonB’ Med-Spa offers educational programs in collaboration with Cesare Ragazzi
Hair Visions
The management team at Hair Visions are still getting their breath back after a dramatic sales and training conference that announced their vision for 2016 to over three hundred guests. The emphasis was new marketing opportunities, the importance of style and fashion and the need for in-depth hairloss education. See a full report and photographs in the next issue of The National Hair Journal.
In this photo, Dr Bauman is seen with Cesare Ragazzi executives. Dr. Alan Bauman, a leading cosmetic surgeon, has launched a scalp health and hair beauty training program that integrates medical hair loss therapies and protocols with a comprehensive trichology program. ‘salonB’ was created in collaboration with Cesare Ragazzi Laboratories and offers a 3-day hands-on workshop combining medical and non-medical treatment protocols for medical and beauty professionals. Those who successfully complete the program will be awarded a special ‘HairCoach’ designation.
PRESORTED STD US POSTAGE PAID PERMIT # 2786 SAN DIEGO, CA
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The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
MARCH 6-8 AT THE HAIR VISIONS INTERNATIONAL IN FORT LAUDERDALE
TRANSFORMATION EXPO
Join industry leaders from a variety of backgrounds and expertise as they identify opportunities and challenge current business models in today’s fast changing world. INTRODUCING:
NEW in-studio imaging NEW transformative marketing campaigns Join us Monday evening for the
Fort Lauderdale Beach
NEW qualia product portfolio A NEW VIP benefit program
Special room rates limited.
Double occupancy available! DON’T WAIT!
252
$
Honoring newly retired On Rite founder, Andy Wright.
The industry event you can’t afford to miss. Call Hair Visions International today at 800-327-5555 and
Hair Vision International | 5130 N State Road 7 | Fort Lauderdale, FL 33319 | 800-327-5555 | Visit: www.HairVisionsIntl.com/expo for more info
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The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
Editorial
Go with the Flow - How are science and technology affecting hair management? Developments like robot assisted transplant surgery and advances in stem cell therapy immediately come to mind. And fresh clinical data continues to demonstrate the benefits of low lever laser light therapy. So what has been happening in the traditional hair replacement and hair addition markets? The news isn’t all good. Unfortunately, lifestyle changes and the rise of the middle class are resulting in less quality European hair being available. Eastern European hair donors are migrating West and finding better paying jobs. And in India, more women are coloring, perming and styling their hair and copying trends they see on the Internet. Others are forming marketing cooperatives to sell their hair instead of donating it to their temple. In short, virgin hair is becoming harder to find. Readers don’t need this newspaper to explain that the economics of supply and demand compels prices to go up - something every business owner has been experiencing over the last few years. Then there is the cost of manufacturing. As more factory workers migrate to hi-tech jobs, ventilators are becoming an endangered species. So what does this mean for the hair industry overall? Well, history proves you cannot fight technology. Medical and science-based solutions will continue to advance. But there are some things medicine will never be able to match. The first is the degree of hair density that a wig or hair system can offer. The second may be even more important - the speed of delivery. That means someone needing more hair, or different hair, can have it within a few weeks - sometimes even the same day! So instead of competing with lasers and transplant surgery head on, studios should redirect their messaging to focus on the hair you want… the way you want it… TODAY! Let’s take it a step further - how about getting a free ride on medical company dollars? Let the robot, laser, stem cells and PRP folk spend their dollars to build hair loss awareness, and simply position hair systems and wigs as the immediate-term solution. Remember Propecia? Remember how everyone was scared the hair replacement and hair restoration markets were doomed? What happened? The huge investment Merck made in the hairloss market sensitized men and women everywhere to their thinning hair. People began exploring alternate solutions. The market grew. Everyone benefited.
Fragrance Signature – Some time ago, I was having a
breakfast meeting with the president of one of the leading hair replacement companies in the United States. We were talking about market leadership and how to keep your company distinctive and special. I had recently finished reading
several books on the power of fragrance and its ability to bring back childhood memories and pleasant associations. Everybody has powerful memories linked to fragrances - it might be Johnson’s baby powder from the nursery, the perfume of a loved one, the smell of old books, or even the smell of a new bank note! So it seemed to me that if a hair replacement center or clinic was creating important, personal experiences, then those moments too could be given an olfactory signature. Clients coming back would unconsciously feel they were returning to a happy place – and if they went elsewhere the experience might feel incomplete. So I was intrigued to see an article recently in one of the professional hair loss magazines indicating that a major fragrance house had begun to explore this concept: “International Flavors and Fragrances, the world’s largest creator and manufacturer of fragrances, recently created its own hair salon in order to explore bringing fragrance to have customs and get feedback on how fragrance behaves on wet hair, during the styling process and after styling.” Fragrance is perhaps the most evocative of all senses, and one that we should take advantage of as our highly personal industry becomes more sophisticated.
Hair Loss Webinar - Cosmetics Design Europe, an online news service for cosmetics manufacturing companies, recently hosted a special webinar to review the latest hair loss technologies. The focus was the growing market for topical products and supplements and the regulations governing their advertising and sales. Guest speakers included, Jeanine Recckio, Beauty Futurologist, David Salloum, Ph.D., Section Head - Hair Care R&D, Procter & Gamble, Mike Davis, Principal Scientist, Procter & Gamble, and Angela Diesch, an attorney specializing in FDA and FTC regulations and compliance. All participants drew attention to the distinction between a medical and a cosmetic product and the strict definition published by the FDA. Angela Diesch from the law firm Kronick, Moskovitz, Tiedemann & Girard, noted that this was an area of critical concern as technology continued to impact the personal care category and urged manufacturers and distributors to familiarize themselves with the latest FDA guidelines. Next Issue – The last few months have seen major sea lane
changes at many of the hair industry’s major manufacturers and distributors. In our next edition, The Journal will be introducing you to some of the key players and explaining what lies ahead. As always, please share your news and comments. We welcome and encourage your input and support.
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The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
THINGS YOUR CLIENTS WANT TO KNOW BUT NEVER WANTED TO ASK
Excerpt from “Sex, Wigs & Whispers ~ Love and Life With Hair Loss” By Amy Gibson
S
ome may remember me through my 20 years starring on Soap Operas before I decided to go public and become the first celebrity to openly speak about Alopecia and bring attention to this condition through the media. Many people and organizations were very kind and supported me in this effort: PEOPLE Magazine, National Hair Journal, Women’s World, The Today Show, TYRA, NBC, ABC, FOX, CNN, Inside Edition to name a few. I will always be grateful for their understanding as women’s hair loss, my own included, is a delicate and sensitive issue and one that I hadn’t anticipated talking about publicly.
Writing Sex, Wigs & Whispers has been a cathartic experience to say the least. It brought up issues that I had no idea were still present. It was interesting that right before going to print I went from only having Alopecia Totalis to Alopecia Universalis. I was surprised by the effect that losing my brows, lashes and body hair has had on my soul. The experience brought back my original emotional state when I first lost my hair with all the fears that accompanied it. There are many days when I still have to work on myself to release those feelings. It’s certainly been a journey. Many of you I’ve met when I had my last wig line; Amy’s Presence with CyberHair® and who were kind enough to support my Swim Wig design. There are also those of you who know me as a retailer with my studio in Los Angeles celebrating its 15th anniversary this November. This is a long way from where I started, selling wigs out of the trunk of my car and going from office to office trying to get oncologists and nurses to listen - to trust my ability to give their patients peace of mind, trying to get to them to understand my mission. Many of you have been in business far longer than me - and for that I give you credit. You have survived the ebb and flow that having a business in this market brings. I can say that being a retailer has brought me some of my greatest joy as well as some of the most valuable lessons. What we do is not easy. It takes heart, inner strength, tremendous patience, guts, great insight, talent and continuing
education. For 99% of us, our work goes beyond selling a system. It centers on the client relationship and the emotional support they depend on us for at a time that is not only frightening, but many times, life threatening. What we offer them is the one place they can have some control. Our consultations offer them a chance to feel beautiful and normal again, like the woman they remember being prior to their heath challenge. They still want to live the life they had. They still want to be active, date, have intimacy, experience love and be loved, just like other women around them - with hair. But many have no idea know how to do this with a wig on and most importantly, how to keep their discretion in the interim. So they stop their lives. Clients are desperate to know how to enjoy these parts of life but have had no one to ask. Hence after many years of teaching women from all over the country my Pearl Program on Intimacy and Dating, and seven years in the making - Sex, Wigs & Whispers (SWW) was born. Over the next 24 months I’m going to share many tips from SWW for all of you to share with your clients in the hopes of helping you approach what has been for years, a taboo and uncomfortable subject for many. I’m sure you’ll find, as I have, that this information will assist you in building your relationships, easing your clients’ confusion, enhancing their self-esteem and confidence and, with your assistance, help them get their lives back. Understanding Men (Part 2 - Emotional Realities) When you find yourself cocooned in isolation and cannot find your way out of the darkness, remember that this is similar to the place where caterpillars go to grow their wings. ~ Unknown ~ There are only two types of men when it comes to a woman’s hair loss, and there is no in-between: 1) The Man Who Notices Picky Details - mostly physical appearances, especially in the woman he’s with, he just loves to be right. Often nicknamed ‘anal’, everything has its place and fits neatly in a compartment. Anything outside of its appropriate box doesn’t usually find a place in this man’s life, at least not initially. If you find yourself beginning a relationship with this type of man and he is wondering about your hair, he will find all the angles to question you about your ‘hair’ and won’t stop until he forces you to give in; which after reading this book is the last thing you’ll do. Whatever you say or do about your hair, will be your choice! 2) The Man Genuinely Caught Up in You - he is captivated by your essence, and has more depth. He is so caught up in you and your energy that your secret is the last thing he would ever pick up on and the least important thing that he would focus on.
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I’ve experienced both. These categories are for men you’re just meeting. If you are already in a relationship, it’s completely different because there is a history; a present and a future that you have created. Bottom line: if you are in an existing relationship and your guy has a problem with your wig, the ‘How To’s in this book can help you. But, you may also need a little support from a therapist. Or perhaps you gained enough inner strength and understanding of your own power to simply say, `Hasta Manana, Baby!’ I hope by the time you’ve finished reading this book, you’ll know how to handle these experiences (should they ever arise) while remaining authentic and in control of your secret. Hopefully, you won’t be consumed with approval of what a man is thinking, or not thinking of you, because you wear hair. Instead, perhaps you’ll be at peace with your hair loss and if not, you will have the tools to feel confident enough to act as though you have a natural, full head of hair. This gives you the opportunity to have a genuine experience with this person; one focused on who the two of you really are, and not on your hair (or lack of it) or your fears around that. There’s plenty of time to share your emotions about your hair loss later, when both of you are ready, should you get there. Men do one of nine things when it comes to hair loss. They: • • • • • • • • •
Get intrigued Feel powerless Become scared Run Fix It (or try to) Act loving Become supportive Get angry Get strong
But one thing is for sure after reading this book: You will have the opportunity to still be standing strong and proud regardless of his reactions. Even the most supportive man will initially have one of these responses because men are ‘solutionists,’ which is one of the differences in how men and women listen to and process information. When any man sees or hears about a problem, his initial reaction is to start thinking of a way he can fix the situation. The wise man knows he does this.
“There are only two types of men when it comes to a woman’s hair loss, and there is no in-between.” Many of my clients are cancer patients and most men find this disease more complicated to deal with than the hair loss that often accompanies chemotherapy or radiation treatment. This is largely because it is completely out of their control and they cannot save their loved one from the
The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
pain they must endure to hopefully beat this disease. This is of course, the ultimate desired solution. And men have no control of when or if, this terrifying disease will rear its ugly head again; so many men cannot help but feel like a failure. Sadly, I have met many disappointing partners, husbands and boyfriends of my female clients going through cancer treatment. When I first began my business fifteen years ago, and a client would come in with her partner who acted selfish, harsh and unsupportive, while she was facing this devastating journey, I would get angry. I soon realized that most of the time, it was just that these men were frightened by their lack of control and the inability to find a solution to a devastating situation. Fear makes all of us act in ways we normally would not. They just didn’t know how to handle
“You will hear me say many times; all women with hair loss are on a courageous and challenging life journey.” their loved one being sick, and took it out on their partner. Often, I’ll purposely drop a client’s wig on the floor and then ask my client’s partner to please pick it up – just so he can feel it. Most men are afraid to feel human hair at first; it’s a little strange for them. (In fact, it’s a little strange for most people at first; myself included). However, touching the wig immediately brings a person’s partner into the experience; and makes it real for him in an organic sort of way. As if he is now part of her beautiful transformation, instead of just commenting on how a wig may look on her. After a moment of hesitation they usually concede and it has always proven to have a positive effect on the overall experience. I have asked many husbands and boyfriends to leave, telling them it would be best for me to work with their wife/girlfriend alone. Then, inevitably after he leaves, she cries; the fear of losing him due to her hair loss is larger than possibly her own mortality. I’m not a therapist; what I offer is compassion, a common understanding and genuine empathy in helping these women. You will hear me say many times; all women with hair loss are on a courageous and challenging life journey. We have to dig deeper and look beyond our hair or external attributes to find what makes us special. Women with cancer are facing their own mortality and often losing body parts in addition to their hair. They are faced with having to make serious choices to go through what is necessary to fight and stay here for their loved ones. These women are my heroes. All women living with hair loss hold a special place in my heart. Some men hide, some men run; but many men will stay and support you in finding a beautiful new you. They’ll take the journey with you. And even men, who do not start this way out of fear, can turn around. It is truly fabulous when a man is supportive of his woman in this process and together they can make it a fun experience putting on Continues on Pg 6
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The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
Au Revoir Andy
(Translation, “until we see you again…”
Continued From Pg 5 different looks and colors; inevitably touching on their past experiences together, bringing forth wonderful memories and thus enhancing their connection.
As Andy prepares to leave the corner office, we looked in our archives and found an early interview with Andy – a time when the Hair Journal was still published in black and white, your editor didn’t have one gray hair, Marsha Scott was president of AHLC and Andy had big plans for the future. Big plans which all came true.
But alas, there have been and still are, men who shock me with their shallowness; only thinking of their sexual attraction and needs at such a frightening time. The thought of their woman not being “whole” without her hair, missing a breast or having scars, or being unable to live their lives “as usual” turns them off. This is largely a reflection of their own insecurities. To me, these men are small... on every level.
On Rite was always favorite in our pages, largely because of the tongue in cheek advertising which brought a smile to everyone’s faces. Maybe it was
And then there are the many wonderful men who stand by their lover’s side, praising their partner for the courage she shows while taking on this frightening journey and to look this massive wild animal in the eye, head on without ever backing down, regardless of the fight and the life change it may take to win. This heightens their attraction and takes their relationship to an even deeper level. These men, I love! The opportunity for any woman facing this journey of hair loss is the discovery that who you are is much greater than your hair or your breast. Your spirit is alive and growing, because of and in spite of, your journey; and for the men in these women’s lives, it’s wondrous to behold and experience.
the confidence of a company on the move, or simply that Irish sense of humor, but it was a special time. We should not forget either the farsighted links with key players like Steve Dimani, a Madison Avenue creative director who contributed exceptional strategic insights and Leo Benjamin who provided the foundation for a high quality website. Then there is the management team that brought remarkable talent to the company – people like Lance Centofanti, Rhonda McCarthy, Darryl Graham and of
The depth of a woman far surpasses that of a man in my book. I may make some enemies in saying this – but women have a larger capacity to feel. Men are not inept and without feeling, they just have a few things to turn-off first before they can get to the place women “live” every day. One thing is for sure: When it comes to men, Confidence is the strongest aphrodisiac.
TIP
1) Remember if you’re calm – they’ll be calm. I am not saying that you should disregard your feelings; but for a short amount of time just put them aside, breathe and tell yourself, “I look great, and I’m fine.” Acting ‘as if’ it’s already fine, is the only way to true manifestation of that exact reality. 2) It helps to ask questions about his life, and then force yourself to get out of your head and get into his – and most of all really… listen. (Men love a good listener) Obviously creating this level of manifestation to achieve the life you want goes way beyond just this example; it’s in everything we do. Or shall I say desire.
A F F I R M AT I O N
course David Schwartz who now takes the helm for the next leg of the journey. Andy is famous for his attention to detail – some would say micro-management – but with a team like that, who would not want to be in the thick of things. Andy we will miss you and we thank you for the vision and humor you brought to a complicated marketplace. NHJ
I only surround myself with people that remind me of my inner strength and beauty.
Sex, Wigs & Whispers in its entirety is available on Amazon.com
NHJ
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The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
A TOP PERFORMER Juliet Elite is a top-of-head women’s system that is versatile, comfortable and undetectable. Available in an 18” length and now a new 12” length. For more information on women’s non-surgical hair replacement systems, call 888-766-6832 or visit hairuwear.com/american-hairlines. MEET HAIRUWEAR AT THE ANNUAL AHLC CONFERENCE. CALL TO SCHEDULE A PRIVATE APPOINTMENT.
NEW 12”
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The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
Hair, Fashion & Lifestyle Marketing By Michael Ferrara
HairUWear is famous for innovative marketing and
glamorous products. With brands like Raquel Welch, Gabor and Christie Brinkley; it could be no other way. So how do you add muscle to an already successful marketing machine? By adding marketing depth and vision. That’s why, in 2014, Mike Ferrara was invited to join the HairUWear team as Chief Marketing Officer. Mike is a highly analytical, strategically focused executive with a track record of success growing profitable businesses. He was a member of Coty’s leadership team during the period when Coty was transformed from a $1B company to a $4B global beauty leader. Innovation and speed to market were the cornerstones of the company’s success. Mike’s skills were successfully translated into smaller entrepreneurial environments leading three start-ups during the time he was Managing Partner of his own consulting firm and now as CMO at HairUWear. The National Hair Journal invited Mike to share his vision with readers. His energy and enthusiasm about the opportunities and continued growth of the “fashion hair” and hair addition business are evident in the following article. Ready-to-Wear Fashion Hair is one of the largest consumer goods businesses that can be characterized as a niche. There is HUGE potential for growth because there is no BETTER or FASTER way to change how you LOOK and FEEL than with your hair! At HairUWear, we’re unveiling bold, dynamic, elevated lifestyle marketing that will connect with consumers on a whole new level. We’re debuting new products that are completely innovative, setting the trends for fashion hair. All built on a great history of delivering uncompromised quality, style and innovation. We’re extremely proud of our great heritage, and now, we’re thrilled to be taking the category in a new direction with our cutting-edge products.
just a virtually undetectable, natural-looking hairline. We understand the unique needs of each client. Our systems are designed to be customized to fit any budget and lifestyle. We offer various systems that range in length of wearability to keep our customer’s clients looking their best every day. All of our systems have specialized or unique hand-tied features, allowing for a variety of looks from the same system. We use the finest quality materials available to give our clients the best in comfort and natural-looking appearance. At American Hairlines, we are proud of the painstaking efforts we take to provide the best quality human hair for use in every one of our systems. We only sell our products to licensed studios with licensed cosmetologists; we never sell our products online. We are significantly focused on providing a range of solutions for women with hair loss by offering daily to extended-wear solutions. There are multiple options from clip-in to semi-permanent. Minimal to detailed customization is available. Based on your client’s specific needs, American Hairlines has the solution! Juliet Elite is our most popular Top of Head System. It’s shear, light, comfortable, and undetectable. Juliet Elite is perfectly designed for the client who needs partial coverage. Made with 100% human hair, it is 100% hand crafted, and available in fashionable, salon inspired colors to add dimension. And now, by popular demand, we just introduced a shorter 12” version.
We’re changing the way the world sees fashion hair, elevating it from a “bad hair day fix” to the ultimate must-have accessory to express your style.
Our women’s custom systems are offered with a multitude of options because women experiencing hair loss often have very different needs than men. Options include custom base size, base materials, hair type, density, color, highlights and lowlights. We also offer a 100% Eastern European Human Hair collection under the Natural Advantage brand. These full wigs feature an advanced cap design and are made with the highest quality Eastern European hair with colors achieved through a chemical-free process to leave hair in its most natural form.
American Hairlines offers non-surgical hair replacement for men and women under the brand names Natural Advantage™ and Virtual Reality™. Our Derma-Lens application system provides a flawless finish – no lumps or ridges –
American Hairlines launched the new “Ultra Lace” men’s system at last year’s AHLC with an all soft lace base for maximum breathability. Ultra Lace became an instant best seller. Coming soon for Virtual Reality is “Trend Ready,” a “ready
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to wear” top-of-head men’s system made with shorter hair lengths making cut ins faster and easier for technicians and means less time in the chair for clients. Trend Ready is 100% human hair, 100% hand crafted, and is V-knotted throughout. At American Hairlines, our customers are our priority. When a custom order is placed, we keep the customer updated throughout the entire process – from initial order to delivery – allowing them to keep their client informed every step of the way. Our dedicated staff has extensive professional experience in cosmetology, hair styling, and product development. This comprehensive understanding allows us to anticipate client needs and help them grow their hair replacement business. We are also committed to the continued education of our customers and offer assistance in the finer aspects of cutting, coloring, bonding and more. We are in the process of developing an in-studio training program, which is slated to roll out in 2017. Whether a beginner or advanced student, the training will include cutting, coloring, bonding, custom ordering, system customization, etc., and focus on the specific needs of each client. This handson training will take place in an actual hair replacement studio and the student will work on live models. Raquel Welch is a screen legend, beauty icon, and an international sex symbol. For almost 20 years, Raquel has also had one of the largest and most respected wig collections in the world. Last spring, we announced that Raquel was now Creative Director of the brand. As Raquel says, “When you feel good about your hair, you radiate beauty and confidence.” Her mission is to make women even more beautiful than they already are. Raquel’s new 2016 Spring Collection launched April 1 and features three new and two bestselling fashion forward styles that are easy-going, understated and with just the right amount of sexy. “The way I see it,” Raquel says, “confidence looks beautiful, comfort and style should get equal billing, and it is possible to change the world one hairstyle at a time.” In June, we’re introducing Raquel’s first ever luxury line – Raquel Couture! The products and packaging are beautifully designed, exquisitely crafted, sensuous to the touch, and blissfully comfortable. The marketing is witty, fun and a bit irreverent – much like Raquel. Every Couture wig is 100% human hair, all hand-tied and special-
The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
ly designed with a French Drawn Top, making this collection the ultimate in fashionable, natural-looking hair. Turning from one beauty icon to another, Christie Brinkley is one of the most recognized supermodels of all time, appearing on more than 500 magazine covers worldwide. Celebrities are changing hair fashion faster than ever. The desire for updos, side ponies, and other off-the-face options are driving the explosion of this hair category. We thought the timing was right to develop a brand for the mass market, so we teamed up with Christie in 2014 to launch Hair2wear. Christie brings instant awareness and acceptability. Hair2wear is a great product with a great storyteller and spokesperson. Christie wears the extensions virtually every day. As Christie says, “You change your clothes, you change your hair, Hair2wear makes it easy!” And women agree! Sales in 300 Sally Beauty stores were so strong that Hair2wear recently expanded to full chain and is now available in over 2300 stores across the US, Canada and Puerto Rico! Sally’s is selling Christie’s best-selling Extensions and Pony. Hair2wear’s 16” Hair Extension gives women what nature didn’t. Longer, fuller more beautiful hair. The Pony™ uses a unique, wrap-around wire to finish the pony and achieve a natural knot. Fast, easy and secure all day long. For the expansion to all Sally stores, we also introduced a wonderful Natural Tone Hair Wrap, Full-Sweeping Side Fringe, and a Fishtail Headband. These new pieces are so ontrend and wearable that you can go effortlessly from a casual lunch with friends to an elegant evening out on the town. The Hair2wear Natural Tone Hair Wrap is the easiest way to put shoulder length or longer hair in a casual yet elegant chignon or bun. It makes messy hair instantly look finished and holds the hair off the neck for warm weather comfort. The hand-blended colors and heat styleable fiber blends seamlessly with a woman’s own hair so only she will know it’s not her hair. The elasticized headband is updated with today’s most popular fishtail braid. It’s adorable and you can pop it in your hair in seconds. In March, Hair2wear also launched on HSN with Christie herself hosting the premiere. By the conclusion of the final segment, HSN was completely sold out of most styles and colors! Continues on Pg 10-11
The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
EVERYDAY BEAUTY
TM
Gabor is all about Everyday Beautiful for Today’s Woman. Gabor offers superb quality and fabulous style at affordable prices. The entire collection is “Park Avenue quality without the Park Avenue prices.”
New this Spring, Gabor offers five new styles designed for women who need beauty on the go. Hair that keeps up with their busy schedule while still keeping up with the newest trends. Gabor gives women carefree confidence and the freedom to spend more time doing the things they love, knowing their hair looks both beautiful and believable.
#FRANKCHAT is a digital platform vehicle for Gabor Designer and spokesperson Frank Campanella to offer hair tips and tricks and more. Frank posts blogs and video editorials on the Gabor website and makes ongoing contributions to Gabor’s social channels. Great Lengths is our professional salon brand and is widely considered the premiere brand in hair extensions. What began as a small, specialty booth at industry trade shows 18 years ago has grown into a worldwide and mainstream phenomenon in the hair design sector. Ethically sourced from the sacred temples in India, Great Lengths are produced from 100% virgin human hair, hair that has never been chemically treated.
No glue, adhesive or film is ever used in the Great Lengths bonding process, so hair is never in jeopardy of being broken or damaged. Rather, a process of bonding occurs on a molecular level, where a progressive heat transfer system bonds the Great Lengths strand to the hair.
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Recently, Great Lengths won Behindthechair.com’s Stylists Choice Award for “Favorite Hair Extensions” for an unprecedented 9th consecutive year! And in 2016, the excitement continues to grow as Great Lengths announced the collaboration with world renowned hairdresser, Angelo Seminara. Natural Balance is Angelo’s vision of Great Lengths, fusing nature and beauty into one. Making this new relationship even sweeter was the March 21st announcement that Angelo Seminara had been named the recipient of the 2015/16 AIPP GRAND TROPHY. Considered the International Oscar of Hairdressing, this most famous of all hair trophies is voted for by the world’s professional press. The Natural Balance project will be supported with a big consumer advertising campaign that kicks off in April & May. We also have two innovative new products from Great Lengths. First is our new tape system called GL Apps by Great Lengths. Using the same high quality hair that Great Lengths is known for, GL Apps sets a new standard in the tape-in hair extension category with faster application time and more discrete, longer lasting attachments. Coupled with being reusable, we believe GL Apps by Great Lengths is the best in category. HAIRUWEAR PROFESSIONAL CLIP-IN EXTENSIONS CUSTOMIZE HER LOOK © 2016 HairUWear Inc.
The Great Lengths patented non-toxic color process allows for a range of 50 plus colors without compromising the hair’s virgin condition. Most importantly, Great Lengths exclusive ethical and traceable sourcing policy guarantees
Angelo Seminara is using Davines products
With our Spring Collection, Gabor introduced SOFT SHADES, a subtle progression of graduated tones that perfectly mimics natural hair growth. The color is darkest at the root, gradually lightens to a mid-range tone, and is lightest at the ends for the natural look of hair lightened by the sun. Gabor’s Soft Shades offer modern dimension and depth for a youthful, sun kissed effect. The initial response has been incredible!
the hair can always be traced back to its origin. We’re recognized by the industry as a premiere hair extension brand because of our sourcing guarantee, non-toxic processing, comprehensive education programs, our selective salon distribution policy and mostly, because of our amazing hair.
©2016 HairUWear Inc.
Model is wearing Lasting Impression. See page 18 for details.
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Perfect size for placement versatility.
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From the same beauty team that brought you Great Lengths, comes new technology in clip-in extensions, HairUWear Professional
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The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
Clip-ins. The industry’s first professional-only, human hair clip-in’s designed by hairdressers, for hairdressers. The best beauty pros have the remarkable ability to turn style wishes into reality. In order to fuel this transformation, HairUWear Inc. presents HairUWear Professional Clip-in’s, exclusively designed by and only available to licensed cosmetologists at highly accessible prices. Born out of a professional need for practical, high quality hair goods, HUW PRO Clip-in’s innovative design, functionality and versatility empowers stylists with the ability to use hair as a tool, the one thing they most need to carry out their visions and accommodate their client’s requests. Available in 12-inch and 18-inch lengths HUW PRO Clip-ins are made with 100% Remy human hair. These one-of-a-kind clip-in extensions provide stylists with extreme versatility, while giving clients the look of custom application extensions with the convenience and ease of a clip-in. Approached from a service point of view, HUW PRO Clip-in’s are rapidly redefining the add-on service in salons throughout the country.
the halo extension with a multi-level design and no clips, which makes it super easy to wear. The piece blends seamlessly into her own hair to add instant length and volume. The Hairdo Invisible Extension is available at Ulta.
Hairdo is all about style at the speed of life. It’s a fabulous line of clip-in extensions, ponytails, bangs and more that defines freedom and individuality. Hair with no commitment and unlimited style, day or night or all-night long. Hairdo’s new marketing is a lifestyle-oriented campaign featuring four millennial personalities in very relatable experiences. It perfectly positions the brand to capture the huge and elusive millennial generation, which has become a force in fashion and beauty.
And we’re bringing the fun and excitement into the store with new packaging and design along with new merchandising concepts like our Hairdo Bar to stimulate, engage, and make it easier to shop.
Hairdo has transformative hair products that offer strong appeal to the millennial audience. On-trend styles and colors with patented hair technology that are easy to use and easy to style. We’re launching some exciting new products in 2016. Hairdo’s wrap around Color Splash Pony will offer 23” of heat-friendly synthetic hair with a long strip of wrap around hair, creating a long and colorful pony style in an instant! Our new Top of Head piece can be used as a solution for thinning hair, providing clip in volume and length with ease. It can also provide just the right “oomph” for someone with limp, fine hair. You know hair can never be too long or voluminous. Our new Invisible Extension just launched is a new take on
Celebrity stylist Kristina Barricelli from Gemini 14 Salon in New York City has been signed as Hairdo’s Brand Ambassador. Kristina is a big part of a very exciting multi-layered digital and social media plan we’re introducing in the coming months to build awareness, buzz, and engagement with our millennial audience.
In summary, HairUWear is capitalizing on the growing fashion hair market with new collections of cutting-edge styles and colors that are the fastest and easiest way for your readers to change their client’s and customer’s style in an instant, transforming the way they look and feel in a flash.
We’re extremely passionate about what we do at HairUWear. Our sights are set on changing the way consumers and stylists think about hair extensions and clip-in accessories. We want every woman to view ready-to-wear hair the same way she thinks about what blouse she’s going to wear or what color lipstick she puts on. HairUWear is more than just a hairdo—it’s a style statement. We are very excited about the future! About Michael Ferrara – Michael possesses a rare combination of talent and experience in management, marketing, sales, operations, research, and consulting. Mike is best known for understanding the consumer and translating complex data into insights and successful business NHJ strategies.
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The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
Life Is Too Short to Have Boring Hair
related so we removed all of that and brought back most of the professional product companies such as Mizani and Soft Sheen to name a few. That change was a big hit! Many of the attendees said that it was the best show that they had attended in 15 or 20 years and reminded them of how the show use to be. There’s a saying, “Life is too short to have boring hair”. This quote is true and can be proven at the Bronner Bros. International Beauty Show held each year in Atlanta, Georgia. If you think you’ve seen the pinnacle of hair styling and hair artistry, you haven’t scratched the surface until you’ve attended this show! This three-day professional hair extravaganza is the largest multicultural/multi-textural tradeshow in the Unites States. With over 22,000 beauty professionals in attendance and over 100 education classes, innovative workshop sessions and creative competitions, it’s definitely an event that every industry professional should experience. We had the privilege to chat with the show’s director, James Bronner, just days before the highly anticipated show to learn more about this event and how they are making their mark in the industry. The company reigns in the AfricanAmerican hair and beauty sector, where 70% of black women make up the market and 10,000 beauty supply stores specifically target African-American consumers. But Bronner Bros. isn’t stopping there. The brand is expanding and diversifying and we we’re intrigued and excited to learn more! National Hair Journal: Last winter was a record breaking show. What will make this show bigger and better? James Bronner: I was given the task of taking over the show and this is the second show that I’ve been the director of. Under my direction we made many changes that our professional attendees requested. We surveyed 700 barbers and stylists and asked what they liked about the show and what new additions they’d like to see. I personally read all 700 responses. We used that feedback to make changes during the show held in February. Those changes resulted in noticeable growth because we got back to the roots of the show and made it more professional. One of the first things that we did was clean up the exhibit floor. Previously, we had too many booths that were non-beauty
In August we are continuing the changes. We discovered that a lot of the people outside of the southeast link were not as familiar with the show. Our goal then became to get more exposure by having the best show out there and to make it more known to the professionals all over the country and the world. To accomplish this, we formed a television partnership with 3 television networks that will be broadcasting live from the show. Our main partnership is with BET Centric. They have an exciting line-up planned that includes a one hour special on celebrity hair battles and an entire hair week that consists of classes, day time competitions, and main stage footage that will be nationally broadcast which will really help with the exposure and let people see what’s going on at the show. We also had Bravo TV’s Thicker Than Water contact us. One of the cast members, Brooklyn Tanker, will be on the main stage featuring her line of hair extensions. The third network is WE TV’s L.A. Hair with celebrity stylist Kim Kimble. The entire cast will be there and they will be filming on the main stage as well as conducting classes and on the exhibit floor. These networks filming at the show will help the momentum go even further. We are also thrilled to add two night events and we’ll also be moving to a bigger and better venue that features a sit down food court. People will really appreciate this because they don’t have to leave the building to get food – they can conveniently grab a bite to eat and quickly head back to all the action at the show. NHJ: Bronner Bros. is a family owned and operated beauty business. Talk to us about the family history and how you came into your current role. JB: The company started in 1947 with my father, Nathaniel Bronner Sr. and his brother, Arthur Bronner Sr. They were the original Bronner Brothers. The first show had about 300 attendees and now we have over 22,000. We have never missed a year so we’ve been ongoing for those 68 years. My father had six sons, and I am the youngest. I’ve always been apart of the company. Since the age of ten I was working
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the show and doing things such as selling souvenirs, etc. My background is rooted in technology. I went to Georgia Tech and I ran the technology department for the company while in college and continued to do so up until a year ago. Around the same time, it was determined that some changes were needed for the show. The technological enhancements that I was making to the show were impressive and I was chosen to become the show’s director and I accepted the challenge. I stepped in the role and used the same mindset that I used with technology. As an engineer they train you to first analyze a problem and look at all of the solutions and that’s what I’ve been doing with the show, analyzing issues and finding solutions. NHJ: What is the mission of Bronner Bros? You have an exciting show and you do dramatic things but I know there is much more to it than that. JB: We want to be known as the authority in the multicultural market. We’ve seen from research that the multicultural market is growing, and not only is it growing in numbers but they are the biggest spenders as well. All of the general market companies are realizing this fact and because of this we want to be the source for those who want to tap into that market. If you wanted to capture that market, we want to be the only place people would name to be able to capture it. Almost like fashion week. So when you think of multicultural in regards to hair, beauty, makeup or skincare, we want Bronner Bros. to be the name synonymous with that. NHJ: What other marketing support do you offer? If I were to come to Atlanta to attend the show and come back to my studio amped and ready to do all the great things that I saw on the platform, what other support can you offer me? JB: While you are at the show, it’s very important to take advantage of the huge networking opportunities that are available. Most people who have moved to the next level in their career started at our show and connected with people who were making big moves in their career. These “movers and shakers” in the industry become mentors to those who are up and coming. Being in the presence of greatness helps to inspire and motivates you to keep going. It’s a beautiful cycle. We also have online education and this is one of the categories that we want to grow in. NHJ: What is the “must see” or fan favorite at the show? JB: Definitely the night events. There are approximately 8 to 10 thousand people in the audience. It’s high energy and the creativity is through the roof! People love it! We invest a lot of money in the production of the night shows and that is something that is unique to our show as well. Other shows have many live exhibit halls but they don’t really have large evening productions. That’s one of the reasons why television wants to partner with us. As far as the exhibit floor, we will have great main stage
The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
presentations. The highlight this year will be Paul Mitchell’s presentation. They’re bringing in over 60 models. Robert Cromeans is the Global Artistic Director and he will be on the main stage and Jon Paul DeJoria himself will be in attendance as well. They are really bringing out their very best. Another presentation that will be highlighted is Design Essentials. They are celebrating 25 years with us and will be doing some extra things because of this special anniversary. The founder and president of Avlon Industries, Dr. Ali Syed, will be conducting a class and he’s an expert in the science of hair. Attending his class will be awe inspiring, especially for those who use his products. It will be a treat to be able to personally interact with him and ask questions directly to the founder and the formulator. Our fantasy competition is also a fan favorite because of the level of creativity involved in it. Many of the artistic and unconventional hair pictures highlighted on our website are from the fantasy portion of the show. The media really likes it because it’s not the everyday look that you see on the street. Whatever the mind can imagine is literally put on the head. That draws a lot of attention because the level of artistry that is expressed there. NHJ: You mentioned earlier multicultural markets. Do you all lean more towards the African-American market or are you also reaching out to the Asian and Hispanic sectors as well? JB: We are majority African-American focused now, but we are expanding and reaching out and forming marketing for the Dominican, Hispanic and the Asian markets. One of the shifts we’ve done is going from just a hair show to a beauty show by bringing in nails, skin care, estheticians, barbers and an entire range of beauty products. The nail market is dominated by Asians and we’re reaching out in that market as well. NHJ: There are many industry professionals who would like to know more about the African-American hair market. All of the dramatic and extravagant hair styles come at a price. Whether you’re coloring the hair, bleaching the hair, tightly braiding the hair, there’s a price to pay. What is the biggest need of the African-American client? Do they need help caring for their hair? Are they paying the price of traction alopecia? Are the chemicals that make their hair look so unique also causing a lot of damage too? JB: Yes, African-Americans need the ability to grow a healthy head of hair. Some of the processes that have been practiced in the past may have caused breakage or alopecia, so seeking healthy hair care regimens and professionals that can help grow back the hair is essential. NHJ: What differentiates the Bronner Bros. show from the other hair shows? JB: Our legacy of 68 years being privately owned, in one family, gives us a huge advantage. We are more personable with our attendees and are able to respond in a faster manner than a lot of the large corporations that don’t have that heritage. Because we are family owned, we were all brought up to in salons, talking with the professionals, and we continue to do that. We have deep rooted relationships with industry professionals and we also have an insider’s look at what’s trending in the industry. Connecting with Continues on Pg 14
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publications such as The National Hair Journal allows us to take that expertise and to really share it with those who may not have that knowledge or exposure. We can benefit them in a way that they don’t get at other shows. We want to bring the element of innovation to every show and those may be areas where the traditional stylist may not have as much knowledge. After the show, we want attendees to go back to their studios with more knowledge and more ways to cater to their clients as well as tips and skills on how to increase their income. I personally go out to barber shops, salons and beauty schools and talk with the students and stylists and I sometimes notice things they’re missing that I’ve seen other places. This type of hands-on interaction allows me to see innovative trends and incorporate them into the show, which in turn helps people to take their beauty school, shop, or salon to the next plateau. NHJ: Why is it that the African-American community spends much more than Caucasians to look good? They have more fun doing it and they create more exciting styles. JB: I think, culturally, African-Americans care about appearance, even outside of the beauty industry. Sometimes they buy more luxury cars and luxury clothes as well. I think it’s the value that they put on appearance. It’s not just material things but physical appearance as well, from hair to makeup to jewelry and accessories. I think it’s a cultural thing. NHJ: What are some of the current trends in the industry? JB: The natural hair trend was infectious; however, we are seeing the momentum decline somewhat. Professionals are shifting more towards making money with coloring the hair vs. relaxing the hair. Overall, we’re seeing more creative ways to service natural hair customers who may want a different look with color but not necessarily processing the hair with a relaxer. There’s noticeable growth with smoothing products that contain Keratin for example, which is less damaging and gives a smoother texture without the harsh relaxers. Another factor that is worth mentioning is the relationship between hair and exercising, especially amongst AfricanAmerican women. Let’s be honest, it may not be obvious to connect health and exercise with hair. However, in the African-American community the correlation may be surprising to some. We had sales-forces go out and survey stylists and clients on this topic and the results revealed that many black females don’t exercise because they don’t want to mess up their hair. So we started a hair fitness contest that highlights ways that you can style your hair while working out. When we see challenges like this, we try to come up with solutions to help the community and this demographic. NHJ: What do you admire most about this industry? JB: My father chose to work in this industry after seeing a sign that read “Beauty is a depression proof business”. What a true statement! No matter what goes on with the economy, women, regardless of race, age, color, or creed, want to look good. Looking good is recession proof. Sure, trends change, but as long as you are offering the products and services that are “in demand” you’ll remain in the game. It’s one thing that has kept us afloat and we will continue to capitalize on this through innovation, education, and NHJ diversifying ourselves.
Patient/Client Confidentiality Keeping consultations and procedures private Jeff Segal, MD JD FACS, founder Medical Justice
Hairloss is a deeply personal and troubling condition. Many men and women do not seek professional help because of the embarrassment and discomfort of sharing their situation with a third party. When they do pluck up the courage, those consultations and any subsequent procedures must remain confidential and protected. To remind clinic and studio owners of these legal obligations, The National Hair Journal is sharing another wise commentary by Jeff Segal, founder of Medical Justice who has devoted a major part of his business life to keeping other professionals out of harm’s way. HIPAA, the Health Insurance Portability and Accountability Act, sets the standard for protecting sensitive patient data. Any company that deals with protected health information (PHI) must ensure that all the required physical, network, and process security measures are in place and followed. This includes covered entities (CE), anyone who provides treatment, payment and operations in healthcare, and business associates (BA), anyone with access to patient information and provides support in treatment, payment or operations. Subcontractors, or business associates of business associates, must also be in compliance. Dealing with the “HIPAA Police” We’ve all dealt with them – the facilities, physicians and office workers so zealous about HIPAA regulations that they bring your practice to a grinding halt. In reality, most time-sucking things they mandate are based on their misunderstanding of the law. Let’s look at a few tales from the
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trenches to see how you can make your own life easier and still stay on the right side of HIPAA. 1. My partner says that because of HIPAA we can’t have a sign-in sheet at the front desk. Even if it is not left out, the next patient can still see the names of the prior sign-ins when it is handed to them for them to sign in. This is making it harder for the admin to track patients and for us to follow how we are doing in terms of seeing patients on schedule. So now everyone is annoyed.
“HIPAA requires you to take reasonable precautions to minimize the release of Protected Health Information (PHI) in the course of your office’s work.” HIPAA requires you to take reasonable precautions to minimize the release of Protected Health Information (PHI) in the course of your office’s work. But it does not require absolute confidentiality because that would make it literally impossible to function. So it all depends on what your signin sheet says. A medical fact only becomes PHI when it can be identified as being associated to a given patient. As long as the sheet only lists the name and time, only the most minimal PHI is revealed – that that person is a patient of yours. It is the written equivalent of seeing the person come in the door or sitting in the waiting room but knowing nothing else about them other than that they are there to see you. That level of disclosure is seen as merely incidental to medical care and generally not considered a HIPAA violation. Taken together with not leaving the sign-in sheet out, recording only the name and time will more than satisfy HIPAA’s requirement that you limit even incidental exposures of PHI. But, if you have a practice in a sensitive area of medicine, such as high-risk pregnancies or oncology, in which just the fact that the patient is your patient speaks volumes about their medical issues, then you could switch to just logging patients into the computer and skip the signin sheet. This will still let you do the tracking you need without any disclosures at all other than to staff. So, your partner is unnecessarily restricting your work flow. You should instead treat HIPAA’s basic allowance of incidental disclosures of PHI as a floor and let the facts of your own practice set the ceiling. 2. My new admin refuses to call patients by anything other than their first name in the waiting room. She will say “Joe” but not “Mr. Smith” when asking a patient to come with her. She says that at her previous job she was told that this is a HIPAA requirement but I have a lot of patients who consider this disrespectful. She is over-doing the requirement to minimize incidental exposures of PHI. She can certainly say, “Mr. Smith, come with me please.” What she should never say is “Mr. Smith” – or “Joe” – “the doctor is ready to see you about your syph-
The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
ilitic rash now.” That Mr. Smith is your patient is an acceptable level of PHI disclosure as long as no other medical information is attached to it. 3. We brought in a HIPAA compliance expert who told us that there should be no discussion of patients outside of a closed room and that even if I have to tell my admin something routine like “Let’s get an LS spine MRI on Mrs. Jones” I have to go into my office and close the door to do so. I hope that you did not pay too much to that “expert.” This is again an example of the incidental disclosure of PHI that HIPAA permits, as long as you take reasonable efforts to limit it. An open crawlspace between rooms that allows sound to easily travel between rooms (so that an entire conversation between you and a patient can be overheard by anyone) can create a HIPAA problem. At the other end of the spectrum, speaking quietly in the open with your admin would not be a HIPAA problem. 4. My office manager instructed the front desk staff to never leave a phone message for a patient about lab results or even to confirm an appointment because if it is overheard by someone else it is a HIPAA violation. The problem is that many of our older patients do not want to use our secure patient portal and ask us to call them. Your office manager is correct that care should be taken to not leave PHI where it can be accessed by unauthorized individuals. But she is wrong that HIPAA bars leaving a phone message that the patient has agreed to receive. Just get an authorization from the patient that states the designated number they want messages left. Then you can leave a message. Of course, you should still take reasonable precautions to make sure that you come under the protections of HIPAA’s allowance for incidental releases of PHI. First, the caller should not be speaking loudly enough to be heard in the waiting room or by passers-by because the combination of a patient’s name and a clinical fact is PHI. Just tell your staff to speak no more loudly than if they were giving their own credit card information over the phone. The caller should not plunge in with “Mrs. Green, your A1c level is 5.2” and instead start with “This message is for Mary Green. If you are not Mary Green, please hang up.” You obviously cannot control what happens on the other end but this is part of your obligation to minimize the risk of PHI being inappropriately disseminated. 5. I referred a patient with persistent tinnitus to an ENT. Now the ENT refuses to send me her report unless I send her a release from the patient because she says that her findings are new PHI beyond what I sent her. She is wrong and HIPAA specifically addresses why. In “Uses and Disclosures for Treatment, Payment, and Health Continues on Pg 16
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Care Operations” (45 CFR 164.506) the law states that because “Ready access to treatment and efficient payment for health care, both of which require use and disclosure of protected health information, are essential to the effective operation of the health care system…the Privacy Rule permits a covered entity to use and disclose protected health information, with certain limits and protections, for treatment.” “Treatment” is defined as “the provision, coordination, or management of health care and related services among health care providers or by a health care provider with a third party, consultation between health care providers regarding a patient, or the referral of a patient from one health care provider to another.” Sending your patient for evaluation by the specialist and the specialist then communicating the findings to you comes squarely under that provision. This also applies, for example, in the all-too-common situation of the ER physician who is told by the Records office at another hospital that they will not provide a needed copy of the patient’s prior records without an authorization. Unlike the ER physician who then has to trudge to the Legal Department to get the matter straightened out, you are in a position to deal preemptively with this problem. Rather than passive-aggressively sending the impeding practitioner a copy of the law – to which he will passive-aggressively reply that that is not his “policy” (remember that HIPAA is permissive on this, not mandating) – just have all your patients sign a release for the consultant to send results and records to you. Have the patient hand that document to the consultant.
dated Rule is still only directed to entities that receive the PHI on purpose to deal with it as such as part of their work for you. A worker for a company that cleans your office or one that dumps your trash may accidentally encounter some PHI but that material was not sent to him as PHI. By contrast, for example, you would need a Business Associate Agreement with a shredding company because the material they are working on is PHI. If you really want to dot your i’s and cross your t’s, what may be appropriate for the cleaning company and the trash hauler (although not as lucrative for your attorney) is a Confidentiality Agreement that says that if their workers come across any medical or financial information, they must immediately return it to the practice and may not copy or use it in any way. This creates a civil right of action for you if it later turns out that a worker misused PHI they happened to
“A caller should not be speacking loudly enough to be heard in the waiting room or by passers-by.” encounter and your practice was damaged. Although not required by HIPAA, it is also the sort of belt to go with the suspenders of your Business Associates Agreements that would be good to show to an OCR inspector as proof of how seriously you take these issues.
6. Our practice’s lawyer says that under the new Omnibus Rule, we have to get Business Associates Agreements with our cleaning company and trash hauler. Is he just trying to create billable work for himself?
Of course, you and your staff should be doing all that you can to make sure that PHI is locked away when you leave and is rendered unusable, such as by shredding, when it goes into the garbage.
I can’t speak to his motivation – he might simply be confused – but he is wrong about what he told you. HIPAA requires covered entities like your practice to have written agreements with other entities that are not themselves under HIPAA but that intend to receive or work with your practice’s PHI. Your attorney, for example, would be a Business Associate if he works for you on a case in which he comes in contact with PHI, such as a billing matter or a malpractice defense.
In summary: Over-zealous HIPAA enforcement usually
The purpose of the Business Associates Agreement is to get those entities to agree they will appropriately safeguard the PHI they receive or create on behalf of the practice. It is why you do not have to personally track every piece of PHI once it leaves your office and goes to a billing company or to your practice’s accountant or to a storage facility. The most recent Omnibus Rule did increase the scope of which business associates you must have these agreement with. It now includes those entities that merely store the PHI without ever accessing it (any entity that “creates, receives, maintains, or transmits” PHI on behalf of a covered entity) and also now extends to their subcontractors. But the up-
reflects a lack of understanding of the law, which permits incidental exposures of PHI in the course of practice, communication of PHI to patients by means the patient agrees to, and sharing of PHI with other treaters. HIPAA does not require Business Associates Agreements with every entity that may encounter PHI. However, a practice is responsible for minimizing the risks of a breach in all of these settings.
*** Printed with permission of Jeff Segal, MD JD FACS, founder Medical Justice. Dr. Segal is a board-certified neurosurgeon who was educated at the University of Texas and the Baylor College of Medicine, earning Phi Beta Kappa and AOA Medical Honor Society recognition. He completed his neurosurgical residency at Baylor College of Medicine and continued as a Spinal Surgery Fellow at University of South Florida School of Medicine. Dr. Segal graduated from Concord Law School with highest honors. He is a Fellow of the American College of Surgeons, and a member of the American Association of Neurological Surgeons and the North American Spine Society
NHJ
Joli Dancer
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The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
Defy the Glass Ceiling
Why Women CEOs Falter at the $1 Million Threshold In terms of growth in busi-
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ness ownership, women have been soaring past men, averaging increases 1.5 times the national average, according to the 2014 State of Women-Owned Businesses Report by American Express Open.
There are nearly 9.1 million women-owned businesses providing jobs for Dr. Venus Opal Reese nearly 7.9 million people and generating more than $1.4 trillion, according to the report. Leading the skyrocketing growth are women of color, who now own one of every three female-owned businesses – up from one in six in 1997. Black women alone generate $49.5 billion a year in revenue. “What’s interesting is that these businesses match or exceed their peers in terms of numbers, employment and revenue – until they hit the $1 million mark,” says Dr. Venus Opal Reese, CEO of Defy Impossible, Inc. (www.DefyImpossible. com), a coaching business that helps black women -- and men and women of all ethnicities -- break the seven-figure ceiling. “At $1 million, they start lagging behind. Despite their bigger-than-average numbers, women’s businesses are still smaller than average.” Reese says female CEOs black and white tend to unconsciously start sabotaging their success just as they’re growing into greatness. Why? “From the time we’re babies, society – often our own families, too -- measure our worth based on how we measure up to their expectations. So we end up measuring our value on those same expectations, not the values that come from our true, authentic self. That sets up some real conflicts as we build successful businesses,” Reese says. How to overcome that? To “defy impossible”? Reese, who went from living on the streets as a teen in Baltimore to earning her Ph.D. from Stanford, shares these tips:
• Know your worth in dollars and cents. USA OFFICE: 4775 Allen Road Zephyrhills FL 33541 : 1.813.788.7468 : +49 (0)30 2089 6831 : +44 (0)20 3286 0094 : +353.(0)1.442.8808 www.prohairlabs.com info@prohairlabs.com
Most women tend to accept the unspoken expectation that people will notice and reward us. That’s a mistake. If you over-give or over-work, you actually train your environment to expect you to give without compensation. Start calculating the time, money and resources you bring (or save) your
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The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
clients or company. Write it down. When you are ready to up your rates or ask for a raise, you will not be depending on goodwill. You will have hard data to back up your hard work.
• Trust that you are more than enough.
Too often we look outside of ourselves for validation. Sometimes we think a degree or a title will give us the “right” to be paid top dollar. You are brilliant. Start noticing that when you show up, things get better, they get done, and people soar. When you trust that you are enough, you stop backing down and you start standing for yourself — no credential needed.
• Heal your heart.
Money is a heart condition. Think of money as energy. Energy needs a conduit. Most women lead with our hearts. Whenever you are harboring resentment, regret, anger, resignation or fear, you are blocking yourself from your seven-figure future. When our hearts are congested with negative energy, we block our wealth.
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• Invest in yourself.
As her business grew, there came a point when Reese realized she – and it – had outgrown many of the support staff that had been perfectly suitable when she was just starting out. To get the people she needed, she doubled and, in some cases, quadrupled salaries. “I believe in putting money in me instead of on me,” she says. “When I hire proven professionals, I am investing in my peace of mind and quality time with my loved ones. When you ‘hire up,’ you say to yourself and the Universe, ‘I trust you and I trust me to produce a return on this investment tenfold.’ “Now that I have a top-tier team, I have the mental space, creativity, and peace of mind to focus on high-level joint ventures.” Learn how to monetize. Until you can reliably bring in new money, you will be a slave. The best investment Reese says she ever made in herself was learning how to package, position, and price her expertise. “When you learn how to monetize, you get freedom. You don’t have to depend on a man, or a job, or the government for security. And when you learn how to close sales with confidence, your money skyrockets!” About Dr. Venus Opal Reese - Dr. Venus Opal Reese, CEO of Defy Impossible, Inc. (www.DefyImpossible.com), is an acclaimed international speaker; CEO Mindset, Messaging and Marketing Mentor; and entrepreneur coach. She holds two master’s degrees and a Ph.D. from Stanford University, and worked as a university professor before investing in herself by testing her entrepreneurial skills. Her business, Defy Impossible, grossed $1.2 million less than three years after launching. NHJ
USA OFFICE: 4775 Allen Road Zephyrhills FL 33541 : 1.813.788.7468 : +49 (0)30 2089 6831 : +44 (0)20 3286 0094 : +353.(0)1.442.8808 www.prohairlabs.com info@prohairlabs.com
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The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
Hair Art
Not Only a Manufacturer, But Also a Client The hair addition and replacement market is made up of designers and manufacturers of all shapes and sizes - from local boutiques to Asian juggernauts. As the market has become more competitive, manufacturers have sought to position themselves as experts in specialist segments. We now see companies dedicated to the medical “need” market and suppliers focusing on the fashion and celebrity segment. And as the competition gets tougher, so the need to stand apart from the crowd and create a distinctive profile becomes more important. Readers of this newspaper are familiar with most major suppliers from past interviews and feature stories, but one company merits a return visit because it is unique in the marketplace. Hair Art remains a relatively unknown West Coast manufacturer that buys hair in Europe, quality controls and stores it in the US, then sends it to its own factory in Asia. If this were not complex enough, the company also owns and operates its own hair replacement studios. To learn more about this full-service operation, The Hair Journal met with founder and CEO, Jackie Yu and his management team in Gardena, CA. NHJ: Hair Art is a company that is different from its competitors. The reason, to quote Sy Sperling, is because “You’re also a client!” You are a manufacturer and distributor - but you also own and operate your own studios. You live and breathe the same rewards –and problems - as your clients. You know about the crises caused by late shipments and the difficulty getting consistently high quality hair. How do you use these insights to benefit other studio owners and managers? Hair Art: You hit the nail on the head. It’s important for our clients to know that we do see things through their eyes. Their needs are our needs. Our solutions are their solutions. We’re in this thing together; I think the technical term is a “virtuous circle.” But we’re also big believers in understanding the consumer experience. Everyone here wears Hair Art hair; from the CEO to our customer service staff. We make a point of living and understanding what happens at every level. We know what it means when things go wrong. It doesn’t matter whose fault it is, it’s a problem that needs to be solved. We are the only manufacturer that can work with you at every stage of customer service and satisfaction. NHJ: Let’s go through the hair ordering process step-bystep. Everything, of course, starts with education. You have to know the technical facts; you have to have styling skill; and of course you must have creativity and imagination. We have learned that Hair Art is making a major commit-
ment to education. What do you have planned? Hair Art: Our goal in 2016 is to host an educational event every few months. We want to do this at a deeper level than people are getting now. We plan to go beyond mundane things like how to make a mold and address broader business issues that will help our clients become more successful. So we’re going to run classes on building and expanding your clientele, and strategies to keep existing customers. This won’t be just theory and words; we’re going to provide marketing materials and concrete tools for success. We are approaching education from a different angle. NHJ: Everyone claims to provide great “education.” How is your education going to be different? Hair Art: It goes back to the fact that we offer a 360° solution. We know what’s happening in the factory at the manufacturing level, we know what’s happening in the salon, and we know what’s happening at the consumer level. So we can provide solutions at every level. And we would be remiss if we didn’t also mention that Jackie and Doris bring over eighty years of professional experience to the table. They are unique in this industry. Jackie travels the world looking for new technologies that he can bring to his clients. There is probably no one today who can match his experience and connections. NHJ: You have recently constructed a new education center in California. We understand this is not only going to be a classroom but also a broadcast center. Hair Art: We’ve made a substantial investment in our new education building. We plan to host live workshops and provide online education. We want stylists and studio owners to see and understand our products wherever they are. Because it’s fully equipped as a recording studio and sound stage, we can also use the center for our photography and film production and create merchandising material for our clients. NHJ: Who are the experts and educators we will see on stage? Hair Art: We should start with our own in-house expertise. Jackie grew up in the hair business, starting in Hong Kong, moving with the industry as it expanded and grew internationally. Today, he runs a very successful operation here in the United States. Then there is Doris, a technical wizard. From creative design to the intricacies of ventilation, there is not much that Doris does not know! Crystal is our talented marketing and customer service manager. We’re also delighted that Basilio has just joined us to oversee quality control. So we have a lot of homegrown talent. We will also be reaching into the industry to introduce experts on specialist topics. We will go where the skills are. NHJ: We’ve been talking a lot about customer service. What can a customer expect when they call Hair Art? Hair Art: Crystal has taken charge of customer relations and she spends a lot of time talking with customers, looking at their websites, trying to understand their goals and needs.
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We don’t want to be just another manufacturer, we want to partner with our clients and give them a more personal kind of support. NHJ: Hair Art has a division called “House of European Hair.” “European” implies unprocessed, quality hair. Tell us about the hair you offer. Hair Art: We believe it’s the best. In a previous article, The Hair Journal described how Jackie has been buying Eastern European hair for years. Today, we probably have the world’s largest stock of Russian and European hair. Hair Art is the only manufacturer that actually keeps its hair on-site, because that way we can guarantee that it’s the genuine thing. We don’t play games by offering “European texture” hair or pass off Indian hair as “European denier.” We know our products are made with authentic European hair because we keep our valuable hair right here. When an order comes in, our experts, Jackie, Crystal, Doris, select the best hair, weigh it and ship it direct to the factory. We don’t rely on the factory or a middleman to select the hair for us. This is the heart of our operation. We want to control it ourselves. NHJ: This is a very important point, so bear with me if I dig a little deeper. There are lots of dubious practices, which some retailers may not be aware of. For example, hair that is shipped from India to southern Europe and then re-exported as “European Hair.” Another anomaly is the fact that there is more Indian hair leaving China than entering China! So there some questionable things going on behind the scenes. With this as a backdrop, how do you manage your own inventory? Hair Art: It is all about control. Over the years, we have developed close relationships with trusted suppliers in European countries. Everything we buy is shipped to us directly from Europe. It is then sorted, and carefully maintained by us here on site. We know the quality and quantity of our hair inventory by color and texture at all times. When we take an order, whether it is a stock or custom system, we match it by hand, pull the hair and weigh it before sending it to the factory. We are the only factory that does this. NHJ: Obviously this inventory control and warehousing is expensive. Do your customers pay extra for this? Hair Art: Yes and No. It depends on the length. For example, our men’s stock units start at around $180, the same as a typical Asian hair product. Longer hair system may be more expensive up front, but in the long run, they look better, feel better and last substantially longer. That makes them a better investment both economically and in terms of client satisfaction. NHJ: Let’s talk about the factory. Does it require specially trained technicians and ventilators to work with your hair? Hair Art: We not only have skilled ventilators at the factory we own in Thailand, we also have ventilators right here on site so we can offer minor repairs and assistance in an
The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
emergency. NHJ: What are some of the other benefits from owning your own factory? For example, can you offer a faster turnaround in a crisis? Hair Art: We offer a three/four-week total turnaround timeframe. But like everyone else, we’re at the mercy of the customs at the port of entry. NHJ: We have been talking about the special understanding you have with your customers because you are a client yourself. Let’s see how that works in action. How would you handle a situation where an order comes back but it wasn’t what the client expected? Hair Art: Although it is uncommon, there is always the potential for a custom order to go awry. Depending on where the misunderstanding occurred, we will replace or repair any errors. One of the benefits of Hair Art is that we have multiple solutions. We don’t just return an order back to the factory and tell the client they will have to wait 6-8 weeks to get it back. We can oftentimes correct the error immediately in our salons using our own professional resources. So here again, we are able to solve problems that other manufacturers cannot. Regardless of the problem, the satisfaction of the client is always our top priority and we stand by our products 100%. NHJ: Let’s take another common situation; someone is getting married in one week’s time. They ordered their hair four weeks ago, but their hair is stuck in customs. They can’t postpone the wedding, what do they do? Hair Art: To guard against emergencies like this we maintain a large inventory of stock products that we can customize quickly. Doris can perform miracles. It always pays to have a plan B. NHJ: Who is the ideal customer for Hair Art? Hair Art: Great question! The answer is everyone! We believe we have a solution for every need. We have full head wigs for clients with alopecia, we have designs for clients who are undergoing chemotherapy and we have cosmetic wigs that can be worn simply for convenience and for fun. We have multiple price points too, so we’re not just aiming for one clientele. We have something for everyone. NHJ: The final test, of course, happens after the client leaves the studio. How does your hair hold up over time? Hair Art: We believe our hair is in a class of its own. Other manufacturers use textile dyes to color-correct their Indian or Asian hair. We do things differently. We achieve our color match by blending virgin hair rather than resorting to chemicals. You can see the difference in the way it looks, move and lasts. Most other factories ship a lot of hair systems because the product has a short life. Our customers usually only need to purchase from us once or twice NHJ a year.
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The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
Changing Young Lives
come back. We have one guy who rose through the camps and is now one of the top alopecia researchers in New York. So we feel proud that we nurture our members and we rejoice in the way they stay friends over the years. I often ask people, “What was your first conference like?” And they all say the same thing, “It was seeing people just like me.”
Hair loss is distressing for everyone. But few things can be as devastating as hair loss to a youngster. At a time when he or she just wants to fit in, they look and feel physically different and incomplete. They don’t understand why this is happening to them, nor do the kids around them. The pain and humiliation during these formative years can undermine self-confidence and change of personality for life. That’s why the work of the National Alopecia Areata Foundation (NAAF) is so valuable. By bringing together boys and girls of different ages and backgrounds who all suffer from alopecia, NAAF reassures everyone that they are not alone and removes the stigma. This is an organization that truly changes lives and The National Hair Journal made a special trip to NAA’s most recent conference to meet with Gary Sherwood, the communications director at the National Alopecia Areata Foundation to learn more. We are proud to share this conversation with our readers.
GS: It’s a lot of hard work, but none of us would miss this. I’m speaking on behalf of all of our staff... none of us would miss this because it gives us so much satisfaction, not just on the professional level but emotionally too. It’s great to see what we can do for these young people. There are 700 people here today that I have become friends with. When we talk about the “NAAF family”, we really mean it. They become your family. It’s great to know that you’re helping them to become more comfortable with each other. If you look over at the refreshment bar now, you’ll see more people without their wigs on than there are wearing something to cover their heads. They feel empowered to do this. Maybe they haven’t felt this way before. I don’t want you to misconstrue this by the way; it’s not like we say, “You could only be comfortable with yourself if you go completely bald headed,” you know. We make it clear that there’s no right or wrong time to do that. If you want to wear a hat wear a hat. If you want to wear a wig, wear a wig. If you want to wear a scarf, wear a scarf. That’s your personal decision. People often ask, “When’s the right time for my child to stop covering their head?” And we always tell them, “When your child decides it’s the right time, then it is.”
The National Hair Journal (NHJ): Gary, as I look around me, I see a room full of kids running around, having fun, some with hair and some without. What’s happening here today? Gary Sherwood (GS): What you are witnessing is day three of our annual patient conference. We do this every year. We try to schedule it at the end of June or mid-July, depending upon the venue in order to make it easy for the kids to attend. We want them to be out of school and we hope their parents can make this part of a family vocation. Even though we call ourselves the National Alopecia Areata Foundation and we’re based in in San Raphael, California, we attract people from all over the world. We’ve got guests from the Philippines, we’ve got people from the UK and we have visitors here from France. Every year, new people from different countries come to join us. Our goal, is to create a feeling of fellowship. For a lot of these youngsters, there may be only one other person who has alopecia near where they live. So when they come to an event like this and see 700 people just like them, it’s a huge thing psychologically and emotionally. They know they are not alone. That they have brothers and sisters who have the same condition they have and that everyone is pulling together. Guests can also attend support groups. Some of them are organized for the parents or we have groups organized by age. For example, if you’re a young child, we have a kids’ camp. New friendships are often nurtured in those camps. I’ve seen people start there at a young age and then come back every year as they get older and move into different camps and then finally, they age themselves out of the camps altogether and off they go to college. But still they
NHJ: We’ve seen nothing but happy faces all day.
NHJ: Gary, you have a fine head of hair yourself, what brought you into this market? GS: It’s funny you say that, because I have the exact opposite problem to everyone here. The gal who cuts my hair just sighs and says, “What, you’re back already!” I go, “I can’t help it.” I don’t know if it’s in my lineage or what it is, but my hair grows incredibly fast. So why do I do this? Well. it all goes back to work I did in communications and advocacy for a major insurance company for over 13 years. While I love the art of advocacy and the art of communication, insurance is not something you can really put your heart and soul into. You don’t really look at yourself in the mirror and say, “I’m doing good for the world” every day. In fact, sometimes you feel quite the opposite. However, there was one thing I did which I think was good during that period and it was overseeing our gift-giving program. We had something called our “in-kind donations”, which was non-monetary. I was donating cars and furniture and computers to nonprofit groups. When I met these groups, I was blown away by what they did these people really had a sense of purpose. They knew they were helping people every day. So I decided that I simply couldn’t keep working for the insurer anymore. When I left that company, I decided I wanted to keep doing advocacy and communications, but this time for people who really needed it. So I looked around at different nonprofits and as luck, or fate, would have it, Craigslist had a listing for NAAF. I already knew about alopecia and hair loss - it’s embarrass-
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ing to admit I learned it from a TV show, “Arrested Development.” It starred Ed Begley, Jr and they had a lot of jokes at his expense. That’s how I discovered what alopecia was. So I went online, looked up alopecia area and learned everything about it that I could. Then I looked up NAAF and studied them too. By the time I went in for my interview, I had a pretty solid background. That’s how my new career started.
The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
ty Roundtable”. More and more people with alopecia area are now turning up on reality TV shows as contestants, so I thought, why not contact them and asked them if they would sit down with us. The idea was to have microphones set up and ask them questions about what it’s like to be on a national TV show and reveal yourself as someone with alopecia areata competing. I want people to see and understand what that’s like. I know it’d be great for parents and kids to attend and listen and learn from that and I think that’s what happening. We had a good response and that makes all the difficulties and logistics worthwhile. I know the kids walked out feeling much more empowered. It’s like, “OMG, that guy was on The Voice. That woman danced on America’s Got Talent. That woman was on So You Think You Can Dance. That woman was on the Steve Harvey show.” If they can do that and be successful, I can too. That’s what we want to show.
I knew I had made the right decision when I attended was my first conference in Washington DC. We were in the Hyatt hotel on Capitol Hill and I have never worked so hard in my life. One event sticks in my mind. There was a Congresswoman - I won’t embarrass anyone by giving her name - who was supposed to come and talk to us on Saturday morning, but out of the blue I get a telephone call from her office saying she’s decided to fly home and won’t be attending after all. So here I was at my first conference, with In addition to the suphundreds of children port sessions we also expecting someone have something we important to champicall, “Ask the Experts.” on for them and we’d This is where we bring just been dumped by in the top researchers our celebrity guest. I’d and parents or anyone only been at NAAF for suffering from alopecia four months, and I was can ask the panel quesshocked. I decided to tions about the state of make it my mission alopecia research. Kids as soon as I got back want to know how far to my desk to write to away are we from the the local newspaper day when they can walk describing how this into a CVS or Walgreens woman had pulled out. and pick something off But before I did so, I the shelf and boom my made one more call to alopecia is cured. And the Congresswoman’s the researchers will office and said “I will tell them, “Well, here’s really make this embarwhere we are right now. rassing for you if she House Of European Hair and Friends Here’s what we’re excitdoesn’t show up” and ed about. Here’s what eventually she came around. She did show and she was research is pointing towards.” They get it straight from the great. We’ve never discussed it before or since - why bring horse’s mouth. up bygones? NHJ: While we’re talking about animals, what’s with the This was just one of the only things I did in my first days at T-shirts with a picture of a tortoise? NAAF. I also DJ’d the dance that night because I do a radio GS: You’re talking about the “Tortoise and Hair” walk. We show up in Sonoma County and our CEO had heard about do this at every conference for a couple of reasons. Firstly, that and said, “We don’t have to hire a DJ, you can do this.” it’s a great fundraiser because guests get in shape and their So she threw me in. There were a lot of things I got thrown friends and neighbors all pitch in and pledge some money into for the first time and I found I really enjoyed it. I was towards our cause. Then when you come here, you get a meeting more and more people and when I saw how the T-shirt and you walk for NAAF and play your part in finding kids really felt comfortable together and how grateful their a cure for alopecia areata. Secondly, it’s great for fellowparents were, well I just fell in love with it. As difficult and ship. It’s creates awareness because you see hundreds of challenging as this job can be, I would never want to do people in matching shirts going up Harvard Boulevard. Toanything else. I would never trade places - especially this day, we had people honking their horns in support. At my weekend! I can see the good we do. Just having people first staff conference in DC back in 2012, we had matching coming up to me and say, “Thank you for all the changblue polo shirts. It was impressive to see 600 people going es you made to my kids” well, you couldn’t find anything up Capitol Hill wearing those shirts. You can imagine the more satisfying. impact it had. We still say that because of that, the FDA Earlier today I was hosting something we call our “Reali-
Continues on Pg 24
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The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
took notice of us and just months later, we were one of 39 out of 12,000 known diseases in the world. 39. Chosen for further study in what they call their Patient Focused Drug Development Initiative, PF DDI. And I know in my heart, that would not have happened if we were not all up that doing that mass march. NHJ: The people who will read this interview are hair loss professionals. What would you like them to know? GS: That’s a really great question. First off, if they have a patient with alopecia areata, and they would like that patient to get more information, please have them contact NAAF or go to our website, www.NAAF.org. Also, find us on Facebook, follow us on Twitter - just get in touch with us somehow. If there is a parent of someone with alopecia areata, we have many resources we can help them with. We have a school pack. If they would like their child to have a doll that looks like them, we are the recipients of a doll called Ella made by Mattel. We’re one of only three organizations that gets Ella because she’s not available in stores. Mattel does not want to a make money from Ella. It’s admirable of them. We get an allotment of Ella, and the understanding is that any parent whose child would like a doll that looks like them, who wants their Barbie with no hair, can contact us and we’ll get it to them. Obviously, we would love it if more dermatologists were better acquainted with alopecia areata. We attend the AAD conferences and we go to Dermatological Nurses Association (DNA) every year, so we try to pass on our insights and get support from doctors, nurses, their admins and their support people. We want every professional to have some working knowledge of alopecia areata. As with any disease, it’s all about awareness and information. We don’t want people to see a child with a bald head and assume that kid has cancer. However well-intentioned that may be, we’re trying to put an end to that assumption, and we’re getting there. When we do the walks, and I saw this just this morning, people come up to us and say, “Oh, my aunt has that. My mom has that. Where can I get more information?” Or it’s like “I’m 62 years old. I never knew you guys existed.” To get back to your question, I want all hair loss professionals to know about us. There’s so much we can do together. We’ve got info packets, we have our school packets, we’ve got a DVD geared specifically for kids called “Why My Hair Falls Out.” We’ve got Ella, which is the bald Barbie. We’ve got all these things that we can share. Right now, I’m in the middle of putting together a special history project. I’m hoping that one day, if you go to our website, you’ll be able to read how long we’ve they been around and how we help people. You would be able to click on different episodes of our history, learn about the founders of NAAF and listen to interviews about how NAAF got started. Our first conference was held in 1985 with maybe about 70 people in Las Vegas. We’re now ten times that size. If someone has alopecia areata, and a medical professional wants to know where to send them, send them to our website. That’s the first and best thing that they could do. NHJ
Insider Tips from ‘The General’ Jimmy Toscano
Beware of Citrus-Based Hair/Scalp Cleaners If you continue to use the citrus-based scalp cleaners that are so popular, you need to change your way of thinking. If you don’t want to spend a few dollars to get a safe scalp cleaner, you may end up with a lawsuit that’s going to cost a lot more than the cleaner ever did. If your clients have irritated scalps, it’s likely not from the adhesives. It’s from the citrus-based cleaner you are putting on their scalp. When you use a citrus-based product, you are actually putting acid on your client’s head.
New bond from Professional Hair Labs
PHL is rumored to be launching a new adhesive this spring that they say will change the landscape of water-based adhesives. In testing, clients reported getting a firm hold for almost twice as long as before. Designed especially for thin skins, when used correctly, there is absolutely no bleeding. Other adhesives often ooze out at the edges and get gooey in the client’s hair. But with this new adhesive, the front hairline stays down longer and there is absolutely no bleeding. PHL stresses that this is not a one-step process. For best results, technicians need to use all the support products the right cleaner, the right shampoo and the right conditioner. I’m working on some new videos that will explain this in more detail and help you achieve 100% success.
Olaplex Bleach Additive - a safe way of lifting hair color
There is a product called Olaplex that I’ve been using for over a year that I want to tell everyone about. If used correctly, you can lighten hair or bring the knots in a hair system up in all the colors except a color 1. It’s an additive, not a stand-alone product. You must use it in combination with color or bleach. It’s very simple to use. You add it to the bleach (or color) and apply it wherever you want to lighten the hair. It will lift the color without damaging the hair in any way. There is one important caveat, however. You must not use heat with this product.
“There is a product called Olaplex that I’ve been using for over a year that I want to tell everyone about.” In our testing, we added Olaplex to bleach, applied it to one half of a hair system, and left it overnight. The next day we shampooed it out and checked to see what had happened. The hair looked great! The color in the area that had
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The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
been treated was lighter, but other than that, you wouldn’t know anything had been done to it. If you put bleach on hair without this product it will begin to dissolve the hair within three minutes. But when you add Olaplex, the hair is protected. In fact, it almost seems to be in better condition that it was before. I’m not recommending that people leave this product on overnight. I just did that to test its performance and see if there were any risks involved. I admit - I was more than surprised to find there weren’t any. Don’t forget - this is an additive. If you plan to use a 30 volume developer, you would start with a 40 volume developer because the Olaplex dilutes the concentration down by 10 volume. Again, remember - NO HEAT. If you use heat, it will destroy the hair system. Technical footnote - Olaplex is a bond multiplier containing a single active ingredient, Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate. Olaplex works by finding single sulfur hydrogen bonds and cross-linking then back together to form disulfide bonds before, during, and after the service. Disulfide bonds are broken via chemical, thermal, and mechanical processes. Olaplex is the only product of its kind with 8 worldwide patents publishing soon. Olaplex is free of silicone, sulfates, phthalates, DEA, aldehydes and is never tested on animals. This product has been on the market for several years. Originally, it was sold exclusively through Olaplex, but it is now available in professional beauty supply stores. Jimmy ‘The General’ Toscano is an industry icon. A respected educator and mentor, “The General” shares his skills at hair replacement shows and conferences at home and overseas. He consults for some of the top names in the industry and has helped design state of the art hair systems. When he is not on the road, Jimmy can be found at Toscano Hair NHJ Consultants in Belle Vernon, PA.
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The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
PRP - Platelet Enriched Plasma
John Satino Explains Why It May Be the Future of Cosmetic Medicine
currently allowed to do in the U.S. Platelet rich plasma or PRP is an outgrowth of these regulations. PRP takes blood or fat and concentrates those stem cells 4:1. When you separate the plasma from what’s called the “buffy” coat after centrifuging, that’s where you’ll find the greatest concentration of stem cells and growth factors. That’s what you want. You don’t want the red cells, you don’t want the white cells, you want the buffy coat. That’s where we get the platelet-rich plasma, or PRP. NHJ: So in simplistic terms, when you remove blood, your body quickly replaces it, but the extracted blood can be concentrated and reinjected as a kind of super-charged blood booster.
Some 30 million women and 50 million men in the United States suffer from hereditary hair loss according to the American Academy of Dermatology. Millions more live with thinning hair because of stress, pregnancy, menopause, diet and other health conditions. Most of these women are not good candidates for hair transplant surgery because female hair loss is different from male pattern baldness. Women typically thin all over, unlike men who initially lose hair at the crown and temples. So their choice of hair restoration or regrowth options is more limited. P.R.P., is a relatively new nonsurgical treatment that uses the body’s own natural healing processes to stimulate hair growth. Professional opinion about its effectiveness differs, with physicians and researchers finding little help in clinical studies about PRP’s long-term benefits because different doctors use different formulations and procedures. However, stem cell therapies are being aggressively explored by a number of companies like San Diego based NeoGenesis and Rapunzel, founded by Angela Christiano, a hair geneticist and Columbia University professor of dermatology. To learn more about the current status of P.R.P. research and to find out how one hair clinic is using it for their clients, The National Hair Journal met with John Satino, Clinic Director & Laser Safety Officer, Laser Hair & Scalp Clinics, Clearwater, Florida. National Hair Journal (NHJ) - The subject of our discussion today is PRP, platelet enriched plasma. Nobody really understands what this means, so let’s start at ground zero. What is PRP and what is its significance? John Satino (JS): Back in 1979, James Thomson at the University of Wisconsin was the first person to conduct stem cell research in this country. But things got off to a rough start. Senator Dickey and his right wing supporters objected to these studies and succeeded in getting stem cells intended to be used for medical treatment outlawed in the United States. Later, when the Obama administration came into power, they pushed the FDA to make changes to those laws and it became legal to conduct “minimal manipulation of autologous cells,” which basically means that you can manipulate your own cells, but not cells from another person, an embryo or cord blood. So today, you can take your own cells and manipulate them and concentrate them up to four times. That’s what we’re
JS - That’s a colorful way of describing it, but basically true. It’s a 4:1 concentration of the normal healing factors and normal growth factors from your own blood. If you get an injury, a signal is sent to the bone marrow to tell it to release stem cells and growth factors. They come to the injury site and they generate new bone or blood or skin or whatever is needed and then they differentiate and become stem cells again. They’re the only cells in your body that can do this. They’re immortal. You have them all your life. You may not have as
“In hair restoration, we inject PRP into the scalp to stimulate blood supply, vasodilatation, and to accelerate cellular activity.” many stem cells when you’re 60 as you had when you were 30, but they are immortal. After they’ve done their job of repair or replacement, they become a stem cell again. When we talk about PRP or platelet-rich plasma, it simply means that we concentrate those healing cells or growth cells and put them in a special area. In hair restoration for instance we inject them into the scalp to stimulate blood supply, vasodilatation, and to accelerate cellular activity. NHJ: How is PRP integrated into the transplant procedure? Is this something you do in advance, after the fact, or as a totally separate procedure? JS: It’s a combination. When we do a transplant, we first draw the blood, separate out the cells with a PRP, and then do a conventional transplant. During surgery, we soak the transplanted grafts in the stem cells before they’re placed. This gives them a good head start and a good healing factor. Then when we’re done, we inject the rest of the cells into areas that haven’t been transplanted. For example, if you’re doing a frontal hairline, the back of the head may also be thinning, so we may use the rest of the PRP in the crown to stimulate hair growth there as well. So the client gets a double benefit. NHJ: How long have you been doing this? JS: We started in 2008 when it was cleared by the FDA. Prior to that, we had done some experimental work with veterinarians who were successfully using PRP to repair and maintain the joints of horses. Those early studies were where the outgrowth came from. NHJ: What kind of results are you seeing today? JS: With PRP, our success ratio runs around 70 to 90 percent; 70 percent on the low end, 90 percent on the high end. What I
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mean by that is the degree of success. So statistically, it is very beneficial for the patient. Interestingly, when you are treating normal male pattern baldness, the front does not respond as well as the crown. We don’t know whether this has to do with blood supply or something else, but when we inject a frontal hairline, it’s not as effective it is in a crown area. Most people will respond to platelet-rich plasma if there are hair follicles there. Obviously if it’s a bald area and has been bald for a long period of time, you’re not going to have a live root so it doesn’t matter what we put there. But if there’s a hair follicle there, that hair follicle usually goes back into a growth stage. We would expect to see a thickening of any existing hair and sometimes we vellus hair that grows into something that’s got more color and pigmentation to. We’ve also been very successful in treating diseases like Alopecia Areata and autoimmune diseases. Depending on the particular client, the success ratio can be as high as 90 percent. It is exciting to see those people responding to the injections and watching their hair grow back. NHJ: Is PRP equally effective on men and women? JS: I would say yes, even though hair loss in men and women is usually different. With men, you’re typically dealing with a bald area or a balding area. If the area’s been bald for a long period of time, then generally you don’t see response with any therapies other than transplants. So the sooner we start PRP the better. Most women have more of a diffused type hair loss. It’s
The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
more of a general loss, so we may be treating the sides of the head as well as the top. The key is treating the patient early and considering multiple therapies. For example, when treating a client with thinning hair we normally recommend PRP plus low-level laser light therapy. The laser seems to activate the PRP and we’re see better results than with either the laser or PRP on its own. We actually studied this with two patients who were identical twins. One twin got PRP, the other twin got the PRP plus the laser treatment. There was a significantly better response with the laser and PRP than just PRP by itself. NHJ: Given the extremely successful results you are reporting, how is the rest of the industry responding to PRP? JS: The first published articles about using PRP in the scalp came from Doctor Joe Greco. That was early on, perhaps 2007 or 2008. He was one of the pioneers. We came right after that. Today, PRP is considered pretty much standard of care. I think most hair transplant doctors are doing PRP in combination with surgery. We regularly train physicians at our center and no doubt and they train other specialists, so I think it’s a standard of care at this point. NHJ: Does PRP require special equipment or laboratory facilities? JS: It does and that’s one of the problems that we see. Not all PRP is the same. Some doctors will simply draw blood, separate it in their centrifuge and try to draw off some of the red cells or some of the white cells and miss the buffy coat.
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Continues on Pg 28
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That’s where the specialist skill is important. Unless PRP is administered correctly, they will not achieve a good effect because they’re just putting the blood back in. There are several different companies that market a specialty centrifuge designed specifically for PRP. You’re will get a better take from one of those than you will with a standard centrifuge, but this equipment can be expensive. If you can’t afford the special equipment, you need a talented person who can get the buffy coat out between the two different plasmas. The other thing that we believe is that there’s a way of stimulating more production of stem cells in the PRP and getting higher platelet counts. We test our platelets when we’re finished with our centrifuge to see what our platelet levels are. We want to get our numbers up to a million to two million platelets. We’ve found that the use of something called Aphanizomenon has proven to be effective. Aphanizomenon is an amino acid that comes from an alga. We believe the way it works is by tricking the body into thinking there’s an injury and causing the bone marrow to release more stem cells into the blood stream. A number of articles have been published on this including an important review in Cardiovascular and Revascularization of Medicine in 2007 where animal studies showed an increase of stem cells CD34 and CD133 when tested in vitro with Aphanizomenon. NHJ: Are we correct in believing that when you are taking tissue from one patient’s body and putting it back into the same patient, the procedure does not require FDA clearance? JS: Yes and no. Under the practice of medicine, you can take blood or tissue and put it back into the same person. It’s called autologous and doesn’t require FDA clearance. The use of PRP however, does require the FDA clearance because we do what’s called “minimal manipulation of autologous cells” where we separate the cells to create that 4:1 concentration. There are some other regulations too that were passed in ‘09. For example, you can’t draw the blood and take it over 40 feet from where it was first drawn. So you can’t take it from one floor to the next. That’s a safety concern to prevent the possibility of getting the blood mixed up or something of that nature. NHJ: If somebody reading this article wanted to learn more about PRP and perhaps get education or training in how to apply it, where would they turn? JS: Well, they could come to someone like us. We’re pioneers in this area. We train doctors all the time. NHJ: Does PRP have to be by a physician or a medical professional. JS: As a generalization, anyone who is allowed to draw blood like a P.A. or a nurse practitioner can do it. But regulations do change from time to time, so one state may require a doctor and another will allow a P.A. It’s wise to check your local regulations to be sure. I’m not a physician. My background is in biomedical engineering, but my associate Dr. Markou is a physician so we work together on this. I can handle the patients, get them set up to do the laser treatments and so forth, and he can draw the blood and manage the PRP process. That’s the way we train other people too because most of the professionals who come to us also have medical and nonmedical people involved.
NHJ: You mentioned that you inject PRP into the scalp. How many injections, is there any discomfort, and is it expensive? JS: The standard price for PRP starts around $1,200 and a more elaborate procedure might be $2,000. Is it painful? We like to use a little nitrous or laughing gas because even if they still feel something, they wont care. We will always use lidocaine or novocaine to numb the circumference of the scalp before we inject it because we need to make several injections. We use a fairly long needle so that we can inject from one central point and inject out. After we inject, we cover the scalp with the remaining PRP and use a derma-roller to roll it into the surface of the skin as well. So we’re injecting and we’re derma-rolling. NHJ: Is it a one-time process or do you you need to top up and have frequent return visits? JS: There are two schools of thought: one is that every three months you go back and inject again. Some doctors are doing it that way. We say give it at least six months before you consider doing another set of injections and we generally like to wait for a year. NHJ: We’ve looked at PRP solely from a medical context perspective, but could PRP be a logical companion say for a woman who’s wearing hair extensions? Hair extensions place strain on your growing hair. That growing hair has to be in optimum condition and strong. Could PRP be an important contributor to that hair health? JS: Hair extensions do put a lot of weight and a lot of traction on the existing hair. If the hair is fine or weak, it may be at risk. But I’d probably recommend a non invasive therapy first like laser therapy. We’re now using PRP but for face too. We inject the PRP along with a scaffolding and hyaluronic acids to get rid of wrinkles. We then cover the face with the PRP and derma roller it in with a collagen mask, which drives it into the skin. We take the mask off 30 after minutes later and we’ve taken 10 years off a person’s appearance. So PRP’s got a lot more uses than just hair! NHJ: What brought a biomechanical engineer into the world of hair replacement/ JS: Back in 1982, I was working on lasers at NASA. Now, when you’re in space there’s no sunlight or gravity, so wounds don’t heal correctly. Our team was charged with developing a low level laser for wound healing. One of the outgrowths of that, of course, was low level laser treatment for hair loss and the launch of the laser comb. After that, I assisted Dr. Chambers who was participating in one of the early Rogaine studies. That was in 1983 and Upjohn was showing a lot of interest in new hair growth drugs. Then in 1989, I was asked to be the research coordinator for Merck who were testing Finasteride, or what we now call Propecia or Proscar. So I was fast becoming a hair loss expert Fast forward to 2003 and I drew on my technical training and all that accumulated experience and together with Dr. Markou conducted a 50 patient study, published in the International Cosmetic Surgery and Aesthetic Dermatology Journal, which was the first published medical study in a peer review journal on low-level laser for treatment of hair loss. So it’s been a natural progression - from Rogaine to Propecia to low-level laser to the next step… and I saw the next step as PRP. I think that it’s the future of medicine - we’re using our own body to treat our body and I that’s the direction we want to go. NHJ
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The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
Prominent Hair Restoration Surgeon Pioneers Anti-Aging Program with Cesare Ragazzi Laboratories Many people believe they have to accept hair loss as an inevitable part of the aging process. There are other people however, who have learned that they don’t have to live with this sadness. Since 1997, Dr. Alan Bauman has helped more than 17,000 men and women delay, stop and even reverse the hair loss process. Using proprietary protocols, Dr. Bauman creates custom plans for patients from around the world comprising medical and non-medical therapies that may include prescription topical products, nutritional supplements and different types of low-level laser light therapy devices. In keeping with 17 years of on going innovation, Dr. Bauman recently decided to collaborate with Italy-based Cesare Ragazzi Laboratories. This partnership brings new ways to address common scalp symptoms, optimize the beauty of the hair and resolve extreme hair loss situations.
Dr. Alan J. Bauman Medical Director at Bauman Medical with Mr. Troy McLellan, Boca Raton Chamber of Commerce President and Cesare Ragazzi Laboratories Executive Leadership Team from Bologna, Italy (Andrea D’Angelo, Principal, Stefano Ospitali, CEO and Angelo D’Andrea, CFO) at the official salonB Ribbon Cutting inside Bauman Medical in Boca Raton, Florida
Cesare Ragazzi Laboratories is an established leader in the world of hair and scalp disorders. They are committed to an ongoing program of scientific research into scalp health, commonly known as Trichology. They also create and manufacture an advanced prosthetic hair replacement system that provides uninterrupted 24/7 wearability for weeks at a time. Salon ‘B’ - After studying the Cesare Ragazzi program, Dr. Bauman decided to open a new med-spa inside his center known as ‘salonB’ in order to introduce Cesare Ragazzi technology to his patients.
3 Innovative new offerings now available at salon’B’ - “You simply can’t have a beautifulhead of hair without a healthy scalp” says Dr. Bauman. A ‘Scalp Makeover’ is an advanced trichology treatment program that optimizes scalp health and hair beauty by using scientific markers and includes the application of custom all-natural products, combined with therapeutic in-office treatments. Scalp Makeover
- An advanced prosthetic hair replacement system that provides uninterrupted 24/7 wear-ability for weeks at a time. This unique CNC hair prosthesis is handmade in Italy with the highest quality unprocessed European-sourced hair, stitched strand by strand, in an ultra-thin medical-grade FDAcleared polymeric synthetic base. With monthly maintenance and proper care, each prosthesis can be expected to last 4-5 years..
CNC Hair Replacement System
Healthy Scalp, Beautiful Hair Trichology Workshop - salonB now offers the world’s first scalp health and hair beauty
training program that integrates medical hair loss therapies with a comprehensive trichology program. ‘salonB’ serves as a collaborative training center of excellence to deliver an industry-first 3-day hands-on workshop combining medical and non-medical treatment protocols. For more information please visit http://www.cesareragazzi.com/eng/contatti.jsp or email info@cesareragazzi.com. Cesare Ragazzi Laboratories is an established leader in the field of scientific research into hair and scalp disorders, and the development of effective treatments. For details about the 3 innovative new offerings available at ‘salonB’ visit www.salonBBoca.com. ________________________________________________________ Two Worlds Once Clashed, Now in Harmony
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The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
Hair To The Chief! By James Britt
Forget issues like Iran, the economy, foreign policy and gay marriage; the upcoming presidential election will be decided by one issue; hair! At least one candidate, Donald Trump, has already injected this issue into the political discourse. as a group, know something we don’t know? “ For example, If you make the choice to pursue a career in politics before reaching puberty, does that automatically guaranty the “perk” of having hair. . . ? like it does having access to health care, limousines, staff and interns? No. The reason politicians in high-office have hair is because the voting public does not vote people into-high office who do not have hair. America has a long established prejudice against bald men. Countless studies have revealed that bald men are perceived as weaker, less credible, less engaging, and in one report, less good. Consequently, bald or balding men have a more difficult time getting elected to high-office. At a recent rally, the “Donald” vigorously rejected the claim that his famous golden mane is actually a “toupee.” In an effort to dispel this assertion, the celebrated reality-star commanded a female reporter to join him on stage to tug at his tawny pelt. The reporter tentatively extended her hand before pausing, seemingly fearful that she might waken an angry rodent, curled up and napping on the Billionaire’s over-sized head. When the reporter touched Trump’s hair and successfully retrieved all of her fingers (no bloody stumps) the Donald, waved his arms in triumph claiming, “see, it’s real” Is it real? Does it even matter? Of course it doesn’t, but not since the “wig” century has there been so much discussion about a presidential candidate’s tresses. So... is hair, or the lack-thereof, an issue for political candidates running for office? The simple truth is a resounding, YES! Let’s look at the facts. Numerous studies have been done and the results are undisputable. In a 1990 study, conducted by professionals at the University of Arizona, this conclusion was reached. “There is a bias in this country against bald and balding men in high-level elective office.” The study revealed that at that time, only 37.2% of politicians holding high-office were either bald or balding. This number is completely out of sync with what would normally be found in the general population of Anglo men in any randomly selected group. Statistics show that at age 30: 30% of all men are losing their hair. At age 40: 40%, at age 50: 50%, and so on. Based on this formula, and given the advanced age of high-office holders in America, (governors, senators and congressmen), the vast majority should be bald. And yet, 72.3% have full heads of hair. This provokes the hair-raising question: “Do politicians,
In the most recent congressional elections, candidates with hair, clobbered bald and balding incumbents in hair-tohair match-ups. Nowhere is this prejudice more evident than when we elect our president. Virtually all of our modern-day elected presidents have had hair and generally, if as an incumbent, they lost an election; it was always to a candidate with more hair. Example: Bush defeated Gore (well, kinda), Clinton defeated Bush Sr. and Robert Dole, Regan defeated Carter, Carter defeated Ford and Kennedy defeated Nixon…….you get the picture. Now some of you with long memories will argue that not all modern presidents had hair. There was of course Dwight D. Eisenhower. I remember Eisenhower very well, having spent two-terms in the 6th grade. . . . and both of them were his. But remember, “Ike” won by beating Adlai Stevenson, another follicularly challenged candidate. Since these are undisputable, scientific facts, I propose we cut to the chase and ignore the issues. Forgetta-bout going to the polls. We’ll simply count the hairs on the candidate’s heads and declare a winner! I also believe that we, as America’s foremost group of hair loss professionals, be assigned the solemn responsibility of managing this process. The process is really quite simple. We’ll form a committee of professionals selected from the membership of the National Hair Society. We’ll choose a location (anywhere but Florida) historically, they don’t count well. We’ll line up the candidates and begin counting hair follicles. However, these four ground rules should apply: 1) Only human, “anagen” hairs will be counted (no synthetics) 2) In the event an anagen hair is not counted, or a telogen hair is counted in its place, there will be an immediate recount. 3) There will be no “splitting” of hairs. 4) The results will be final and it will not be the Supreme Court who decides who sits under the presi-
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dential hair dryer at 1600 Pennsylvania avenue.
The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
4 The National Hair Journal Fall 2004
I think this is eminently fair and certainly makes more sense than letting the presidency be decided by the issue of gay marriage.
(the politics of hair) ate
immedi-
hair
More than a year away from the 2016 election, it’s impossible to know with any degree of certainty who will eventually carry the banner for their political parties. Because Hillary Clinton and Carly Fiorina both have full heads of naturally growing hair, we will not include them in this discussion. Instead we will consider the male surrogates who would occupy the vice-presidential spot should either woman win the nomination. Based on the metric we are proposing, the ultimate GOP winner will be selected from this group: Rubio, Kasich, Rand Paul, Bush, Trump, Santorum, Carson and Cruz. Had Rick Perry remained in the race, his carefully coiffed “locks” would almost certainly have won the day. (Scary huh?) On the Democrat side the choices are less evident. Even if Biden should enter the race, he and Bernie Sanders, together, could not produce enough follicles for a presidential head of hair. Unless a fresh challenger emerges, that leaves Jim Webb and Martin O’Malley as the most likely to succeed. So there it is friends, right, wrong, or otherwise, hair, more often than not, does determine who wins the White House. I may have forgotten the melody, but I kinda remember the lyrics, “Hair to the Chief.” NHJ
we have better hair
Bald Is Bad
G ov e n a t o r
Editors Note:This article is available for reprints. Please contact us at event@nationalhairjournal.com etc.etc.etc.etc.etc.etc.etc.etc.etc.etc.etc.etc.etc.etc.etc.etc. etc.etc.etc.etc.etc.etc.etc.etc.etc.etc.etc.etc.
The Journal’s previous commentary on “presidental assets” - nothing has changed
What’s In Your Haircare Products? 5 Ingredients You Need To Know About By Ryan Margolin
It is important to know what ingredients are included in your haircare products because they frequently contain harmful chemicals that could put you and your clients at risk of developing long-term hair and scalp problems. Studies show that the skin absorbs more than 60 percent of the toxic chemicals in cosmetics, averaging up to five pounds of unneeded chemical absorption every year.
How can haircare products be harmful? Hairstyling products have the purpose of changing the shape, texture of the hair, or holding a style in place. Although most styling products won’t cause damage; those containing alcohol, for example, can dissolve the important oils in your hair and leave it vulnerable to breakage. Other ingredients may result in toxic build-up, resulting in dull hair, a change in hair texture and may lead to an itchy scalp or dandruff. Sulfates A quick glance at the ingredients listing on the packaging or bottle will tell you if it includes sulfates. Look out for sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) or sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS); these are commonly found in shampoos, toothpaste, and soaps. Sulphates are highly popular ingredient because of their foaming properties. They are cheap and readily available to mass manufacturers. Why are sulfates harmful to your hair? • Sulfates can cause irritation to your hair, skin and eyes; the strength of the side effect can be different from one person to the other, so any symptoms that occur should immediately be seen by your doctor. Continues on Pg 32
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• Sulphates can also remove essential hair oils, leaving it dry and brittle • Long term use of sulfates, especially in shampoos, can make your hair lose its luster, bounce and texture. • In some cases, sulfates have been shown to cause swelling of the hands, arms and face. If your wet goods contain sulfates, I urge you to look into some of the newer sulfate-free formulations. What is SLES? SLES is a detergent and surfactant commonly found in haircare products. Unlike SLS, this agent doesn’t have an ethoxylation step. It is the detergent that frequently causes eye irritation. What is SLS? SLS is a compound that is extracted from coconut or palm oil and blended with other chemicals to create shampoos and other personal care products. It can put you at risk from skin irritation; especially people who suffer from eczematous dermatitis. What is ALS? Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate has very high foaming properties. However it can cause skin problems and has also been linked to respiratory problems. Parabens What are parabens? Parabens are a class of widely used preservatives in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. This agent goes by the name of methylparaben, butylparaben or propylparaben. They contain strong antifungal and antibacterial properties and are used to extend the shelf life of the products. It is estimated that 85% of cosmetic products contain parabens. These endocrine-disrupting chemicals can be absorbed through skin, blood and the digestive system. How are parabens harmful? Paraben has been known to cause the following symptoms: • Rosacea • Dermatitis • Allergic reactions, especially for those who are prone to skin sensitivity. • In worst case scenarios, paraben has been found to damage hormones in men and women. Can Parabens get into your body? In a word, yes. Research, has found Parabens in tissue samples, with high concentrations in breast tumor tissue. Paraben is able to enter your body by absorption from the skin – and even more alarmingly, it has been found intact which means the agent is able to bypass the liver! In amounts greater than 25%, it has been proven that Parabens can have serious medical consequences. Phthalates What are Phthalates? These are usually labeled on the ingredients as “Phthalate esters” or simply “fragrance.” This chemical is primarily used
for helping products to retain their scents for longer periods. Similar to Parabens, this ingredient can create problems for human hormones, particularly in high concentrations. What are the side-effects? Apart from allergic skin reactions, and a disruption to your hormones; Phthalates have also been linked to breast cancer, type II diabetes, neurodevelopmental issues, autism, behavioral issues, spectrum disorders, problems with reproduction, hyperactivity disorder, asthma, and having a low IQ. What types of Phthalates are there? There is a huge range of Phthalates. The most problematic are Benzyl Butyl phthalate, BBP; Di-n-octyl phthalate, DNOP; Di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate, DEHP; Di-butyl phthalate, DBP; Dipentyl phthalate, DPP; Diisononyl phthalate, DINP and Butyl benzyl phthalate, BBZP. What to do about harmful chemicals in your haircare products Look into switching to newer formulations that have been designed with customer safety as the first priority. The Internet is a great research tool that will tell you what’s new on the market and introduce you to retailers who specialize in natural and chemical-free products. What if there is no substitute product? It is simply not viable to switch to a product that is completely free from chemicals; you will then want to look at how much you use, and determine if you are able to cut down on your exposure. Chances are that if you use a chemical product infrequently, it will not do you any significant harm. The risk, of course, is the long-term consequences that may not show up for several years. What should I do if I notice any symptoms that may be linked to haircare products? You should instruct your client to see his or her doctor right away and show their symptoms. You or your stylist may also be at risk. You will need to document all the haircare products you are using, in order to find the agent that is responsible. Your doctor will examine your client or your staff to determine if this is an allergic reaction or something more severe. Summary Always read the label and know what’s in your haircare products. Avoid products containing the harmful ingredients listed above whenever possible. Insist that your suppliers provide you with a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for very individual product and keep them in a safe place. As the damage goes, “Better to be safe, than sorry!” About Ryan Margolin: Ryan is an executive in Professional Hair Labs European Division. He shares the company’s commitment to product safety and is an important contributor to PHL’s ongoing program of routinely reformulating its key brands to provide optimum performance and product NHJ safety.
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The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
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The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
The Butterfly-Gland’s Effect On Hair Loss “There are two types of thyroid disorders: those that affect hormone production versus nodule growth.” Hair loss resulting from autoimmune thyroid problems affects the scalp rather than discrete patches of hair. Thyroid disease can be present for months before it’s detected because of the length of the hair cycle.
Most people believe that abnormal hormones are a major cause of hair loss, which is not the case. Regular hormones and genetics play a large role in the development of hair follicles, as well as hair loss. Every hair follicle undergoes different stages of growth as we age, including periods of growth and lengthening, and periods of telegen, or rest. (Yes, your hair rests too!) During telegen, your hair sheds, then is replaced. Unlike animals, human hair grows at different stages simultaneously. Thus, some hair follicles may be in the shedding stage while others are new and in the process of lengthening. This allows for a balance between what hair is being shed and which ones are growing. But when we shed more than we grow, we inch toward experiencing baldness. For women after childbirth and after menopause, hair loss commonly occurs and is perfectly normal. The baldness that occurs in men and some women later in life is largely determined by genetics, so let’s hope your great aunt Helen had a full head of luscious locks.
Hypothyroidism vs. Hyperthyroidism According to Minisha A. Sood, MD, “The major difference between hypothyroidism and hyperthyroidism is the thyroid’s hormone output.” Hypothyroidism refers to the abnormal, underactive functioning of the thyroid, which results in fatigue, dry skin, hair, constipation, and weight gain. On the flip side, Hyperthyroidism indicates an overactive thyroid and you may experience: sweating, trouble sleeping, anxiety, weight loss, menstrual problems, and the likes. Now don’t get too excited about the weight loss, it’s also connected to muscle weakness and fatigue, so it’s not the most pleasant way to reach your bikini body. The most common cause of hypothyroidism is an autoimmune disease called Hashimoto’s disease, in which antibodies destroy thyroid cells. Grave’s disease is the most common type of hyperthyroidism, which causes a swelling in the front of the neck from an enlarged thyroid gland, called a goiter. There are numerous treatment options available but it’s important to seek guidance from your doctor if you’re experiencing any of the above symptoms.
In addition, traumas to the body can trigger hair loss. Teleogen effluvium is the most common form of hair loss and is caused by severe illness like pneumonia. But, because our hair growth and loss coincide simultaneously, the hair loss may not be that noticeable. The Thyroid Hair loss that occurs on the scalp results from problems in one’s thyroid. The thyroid is a miniscule glad found in the back of the neck, below the ‘Adam’s Apple.’ It produces hormones that regulate how fast your heart beats, how you burn calories, and the likes. There are two types of thyroid disorders: those that affect hormone production versus nodule growth. Interestingly enough, thyroid disorders are more common in women than in men. As a whole, the disorder is extremely common with over 50% of those aged 50 and older experiencing it.
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Healthy Hair Extensions By Jenny Hogan
Thicken-It is a healthy hair extensions innovation and their collection was developed to be a complete hair solution, not just a hair extensions line. Owners Christopher Martin and Maria Savarese saw an opportunity to bring a new wholesale hair extensions system to the professional salon market that did not damage the hair. Their healthy hair line includes topical hair powders for gray hair root coverage as Jenny Hogan well as scalp coverage for thinning hair with their clip on extensions and hair toppers. Thicken-It Studios offers an easy learning curve for their healthy hair extensions and hair loss products. Educator Irene “Cookie” Colletti travels extensively to promote the collection and teach their simple-to-use application methods. Thicken-It also offers online videos, making it even more convenient to learn hair extension application and advance your career!
“Our classes are typically a very fun environment. I show hairstylists the line, apply them to a model, and then let them get hands on experience.” Every Client Is a Candidate: The reason hair extensions are becoming so popular are varied. Some people may want to keep hair shoulder length, but their sides are lightweight and thin. Women in this category can simply add a piece on each side to add that extra fullness or length. Younger women tend to want length. If they are health conscious, they can also apply colored extensions instead of using chemicals to bleach or color their hair. Every salon client is a potential hair extension candidate. Easy In Easy Out Techniques: Company educator, Colletti comments, “Our classes are typically a very fun environment. I show hairstylists the line, apply them to a model, and then let them get hands on experience.” Classes are generally two hours long, with thirty-minute application time and removal time. With the liquid tape and clip on extension lines, stylists don’t have to stand for hours gluing as they do with a bonded method. Colletti says, “Not only is that method often damaging to the hair, it takes hours to apply, which runs up the cost.”
The National Hair Journal Winter 2015/2016
Different: Colletti claims the Thicken-It line is different from most other hair extensions she has used in the past. “We do not use a sandwich method like other lines where you take a thin section of hair and put a taped extension underneath and another on top so the growing hair becomes the ‘filling’ in the middle. That creates extra weight and stress on the hair, which can cause breakage. Even worse, when they are not properly installed; they collect product residue, oils and dead skin which can be unhygienic and unpleasant.” When traditional extensions are removed, hair is often pulled out from the roots. However, the Thicken-It method supports the hair on both top and bottom so there is no extra weight or tension. Colletti says, “This is the least damaging system for hair extensions. You can even take them out and put in a new set all in the same day!” Truly Seamless: “The thing about our line that is different is that with many extensions lines you can see the weft,” says Colletti. “The weft is the piece of hair, which is sewn on the top, and it usually creates a lump that is visible. Our extensions are not sewn; they are individual tiny hairs on a transparent tape. They are so flat that when you put the extensions in and rub your hand down your scalp, you cannot detect them. They are called “Truly Seamless” because they do not have a seam. No one knows you have them in! “ Client Consultations: Colletti says ‘thinning hair’ comes up naturally when clients tell her about their concerns. “A client may say she has to keep the top of her hair long because you can see through it, that she has to wear bangs because her temple area is so thin, or she may want to grow her hair out but the sides are not growing.” Colletti believes these insights are vital and starts every new procedure with a personal Christopher Martin consultation not only to explain the benefits of hair extensions, but also to prepare clients for any surprises. “Clients are always excited about getting their extensions but they must understand that they will need to have maintenance every two to three months and what that upkeep will entail, because once they have the extensions in, they will not want to go without them!” Jenny Hogan is Media Director, Marketing Solutions, Inc. For more information call 855-352-HAIR, 917-648-2207, email: Info@ThickenIt.com. NHJ
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