2016 Summer by The International Hair Authority

LEADERS

EDUCATION Meet David Schwartz President, Hair Visions

SERVICE

ICONS

A Rare Talent

Michael Suba

Nazy Curtis

Reflects

Up Close & Personal With Dino

The National Hair Journal

Volume 20 No 72

The Professional Publication of Hair and Skin Rejuvenation

Thinning Still Ranks Top

Market research company, Mintel reports that two thirds of men who use haircare products say that having well-groomed hair makes them feel more attractive whilst one in five say that it’s important to follow the latest trends when it comes to hairstyle. However, while long hair is leading hair trends for men, it seems many men are even more concerned with losing their locks. Indeed, the top three concerns amongst men when it comes to hair is thinning hair, with over a quarter (27%) claiming this is a concern, whilst 24% say they’re concerned about hair loss and one in five (17%) are worried about hair that is difficult to style. Highlighting these concerns, Mintel’s research shows that when it comes to product innovation opportunities, a quarter of men (24%) would like to try products that stimulate hair growth, 23% would be interested in products that make hair easier to style, whilst one in five (21%) would be interested in products that thicken hair.

Hair Art Acquires National Hair Centers

Hair Art Inc. now commands the largest hair replacement retail group in the West after acquiring National Hair Centers of Phoenix (NHC). Founded by Arnold Zimmerman, NHC was admired for its creative marketing and willingness to share successful material with other business owners. In 1978, NHC became the first hair restoration center in America to offer both non-surgical hair replacement and surgical hair transplants. At 13,000 square feet, the current NHC location is the largest hair restoration center in the world.

Shiseido Studies Stem Cells

Summer 2016

Beauty Salons Invited to Learn About Hairloss

Modern Salon Magazine, a publication that provides styling and hair cutting tips to beauty salons, has decided to enter the thinning hair market. Modern Salon’s website announces, “Research proves clients need salon help with thinning hair, and they want it before, during and after they start to experience hair loss. Plus, more clients than ever are interested in the on-demand fashion options and flexibility of extensions and hair enhancements. All good news for stylists and salon owners looking for new ways to help clients and drive business!” The publication got its first insight into the world of hair replacement at the American Hairloss Council meeting before deciding to host its own Hair+ Summit six months later in Atlanta. Modern Salon describes its Hair+ Summit as, “The only immersive, hair loss education event created - by design - just for salon professionals.”

Cosmetic Surgery Doubles The number of US consumers interested in having cosmetic surgery has nearly doubled since three years ago. According to an American Society for Dermatologic Surgery Consumer Survey, the percentage of consumers considering a cosmetic treatment now stands at 60%, a 30% rise on three years ago. The survey showed that for the fourth year consecutively, the top factor influencing a consumer’s decision to have a cosmetic procedure is the dermatologist himself or herself. Consumers were seen to value a practitioner that was board-certified and experienced. Reasons why consumers go under the knife or have a non-invasive procedure were also identified, with the key motive being, “to feel more confident.” The second most compelling reason was, “to feel more attractive”, followed by wanting to,“look as young as I feel or better for my age”.

Veteran Launches Hair Authority

Howard Margolin, cofounder and pioneer of the HRS network and owner of Professional Hair Labs, is innovating again. Margolin has announced the creation of the International Hair Authority, an organization that will provide the public with independent and authoritative information about new hair loss solutions and the people who provide them. Margolin commented, “While The National Hair Journal has always been the go to information tool for hair management professionals, the Authority will make a new level of information available to the public and steer them towards the most qualified providers.” Margolin has assembled an impressive advisory board featuring experts from all disciplines and specialties. The team believes the public remains both unaware of -and often skeptical about - the new technologies available to help them. The Hair Authority plans to change that.

Tokyo, Japan. 08/16 - Japanese cosmetic giant, Shiseido is partnering with Canadian regenerative medicine company, RepliCel Life Sciences Inc. to conduct a clinical study into the safety and efficacy of RCH-01 for the treatment of androgenetic alopecia. The study will be financed by Shiseido Company and conducted at Tokyo Medical University Hospital and Toho University Ohasi Medical Center. RCH-01 is a therapy that harvests and multiplies cells isolated from a patient’s hair follicles. To manufacture RCH-01, dermal sheath cup cells are isolated from a biopsy taken from the back of the patient’s scalp. They are then replicated in a cell production facility and reinjected back into the donor’s scalp. All product being injected will be manufactured at Shiseido’s Cell-Processing and Expansion Center.

Amy Gibson Creates Cancer HairCARE Center - Hair loss consultant, Amy Gibson has created ‘Cancer HairCARE Center’ an online portal that premiered at cancerconnect. com, a leading destination for cancer patients and their caregivers. Amy provides information and products through videos, articles, blogs and webinars that are distributed throughout the CancerConnect network and augmented by ‘Web Chats with The Experts,’ multiple social media outlets, plus a print partnership with Women Magazine @awomanshealth. com. For over 16 years, Amy Gibson has dedicated herself to bringing peace of mind to women and children experiencing medical hair loss due to cancer therapy and all forms of alopecia. The Hair Journal is serializing her recent book, Sex Wigs and Whispers in its pages.

Beverly Hills, CA. 07/16

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

Why should you be optimistic about your future?

An estimated 75 million people experiencing hair loss in the U.S. are waiting for you to say one thing:

“We can help you with your thinning, aging hair.”

67M

An Estimated 75 Million People in the U.S. Experience Hair Loss

Existing clients: 8,000,000 An Estimated 75 Millio Potential clients: 67,000,000 in the U.S. Experience

Source: Statistic Brain.

What do they want?

Existing clients: 8,000,000 Potential clients: 67,000,00

It comes down to one word: trust. Gain their trust, gain their business. You do that with the right message, in the right places. The message is healthy scalp leads to healthy more youthful looking hair. It’s a holistic appeal that millennials and customers of today respond to.

Get with the program,

The Hair Visions program.

Source: Statistic Brain.

Go get those clients!

At our 2016 Transformation Expo, Hair Visions International gained major attention from industry leaders who saw a better future. Here’s how it works: Totality. We’re not here just to sell you product. Your business has a need to compete, grow, manage for success and expand your network. At Hair Visions International, our mission is to connect, you, our business partners, with our team of success coaches of internal and external experts. They will provide you with proven strategies helping to fuel your company’s growth opportunities. Prime examples are: Trichology Training offers a healthy scalp and hair therapy certification program. With it, you can become a Head First Hair Renewal Center with certified trichology specialists. This is the next horizon – the innovative and emotional connection that will make you a trusted image consultant. Visit www.HeadFirstPro.com.

Treatment. Become a Hair Visions International VIP member to receive specialized benefits and access to our team of success coaches. Additionally, you will receive year‑round support keeping you at the leading edge of industry knowledge. “I don’t impress easily. But after attending the eye opening 2016 Transformation Expo, I committed to the Head First healthy scalp, healthy hair trichology program and became a certified hair renewal center. My business has already seen a dramatic increase in sales. These guys are reawakening this industry! I’ll be back at next year’s expo!” Jimmy “The General” Toscano Industry guru

NHJ Full Page Ad Summer 2016.indd 1

Every client with thinning, aging hair is a sale waiting to happen. Get in touch with Hair Visions International about our Head First program, VIP program and Regional Education.

For more details about our programs, call 800-327-5555

5130 N State Road 7 | Fort Lauderdale, FL 33319

7/19/16 4:08 PM

e s

Editorial What Can We Learn from Cosmetic Companies? - The biggest overall hair care market is China, followed by the US, Japan, India and Brazil according to Mintel, a global research company. While shampoos (34%), conditioners (17%) and colorants (14%) make up the bulk of the market, hair treatments are coming on strong at 22%. African American consumers report the highest levels of interest in new product formats. They are particularly interested in formulations that support healthy looking and manageable hair. Black consumers are more likely to have eczema and therefore likely to have dandruff – especially men who buy hair care products for scalp issues (91%). However, women are more likely to seek products that treat their hair (82% compared to 32% of men), products that foster hair growth, treat damaged and over-processed hair and treats split ends. While “Botanical/Herbal” is the top claim in shampoos, conditioners & treatments; the “Brightening/Illumination” claim is the fastest growing. Forward-looking manufacturers are Promising to add shine and light with products featuring light boosting and light-reflecting technology. In the hair growth segment, Induchem AG a company that develops and manufactures ingredients for cosmetic applications at its headquarters near Zurich, Switzerland announced “Redensyl” in 2014, describing it as,” The Hair Growth Galvanizer.” And if that language was not muscular enough, the company went on to describe its corporate role function as, “Cosmetic Engineering.” The ‘Galvanizer,” claimed to be “The first hair care cosmetic active ingredient based on regenerative medicine to fight against hair loss,” targets stem cells and human fibroblasts from the dermal papilla to improve hair growth while reducing hair loss. It promises visible results after 3 months. Induchem claimed that Redensyl boosts hair growth almost twice as much as Minoxidil. Redensyl has not gone on to become a hair growth powerhouse in the US, although it was added to “Skinfab Hair Growth Serum” in the UK with modest success. The key lesson from these isolated cases is the imagination, marketing and consumer messaging that these cosmetic companies bring to the market. Does any hair loss manufacturer offer a “brightening” formulation? Are there any hair systems with light boosting and light-reflecting technology? Are we doing all we can for African American clients with scalp issues? And talking of imaginative language, who wants to be the “Hairloss Terminator?”

on People e Hair Loss

0 00

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

Welcoming The Hair Authority – There’s a new kid in town and we couldn’t be more pleased. It’s called the International Hair Authority and it picks up where The Journal left off. The mission of The Hair Journal has always been to provide hairloss professionals with the best research and product information so they can make bettemarketing decisions. In our early years, at the invitation of major players like Merck, Hair Club, Pfizer, Bosley and HairMax we extended our information services to the public and launched a one-hour radio talk show, “The National Hair Hour” that aired every Saturday night in prime time. We started on the West Coast but as the audience grew we moved to WABC in New York. We invited stylists, studio owners, scientists, laser therapists, you name it, into the studio to talk about the advanced work they were doing. People loved it. Not because we were brilliant (I think I sounded monotonous and I have an English accent) but because they craved information about something that was deeply personal and troubling. The show was a huge success and we only

stopped because the next step was national syndication and there were not sufficient human resources to manage both a broadcast and print campaign. So we retreated to our original mission of supporting studio and clinic owners and waited for someone else to step up to the plate. That’s why we are delighted to see Howard Margolin’s team pick up where we left off. In previous editorials, I have lamented that we have wonderful products and therapies at our command, but as an industry we do a lousy job of communicating this to the public. So perhaps an independent third party can do for us what a fragmented industry has had such a hard time grappling with. With this goal in mind, we have offered to share Hair Journal archives with The International Hair Authority and wish them every success as they spread the word about our products, our people and skills. Meeting Industry Leaders – In this issue, we continue the tradition of introducing you up close and personal to industry leaders who are changing your world. We particularly enjoyed meeting with David Schwartz, CEO of Hair Visions, because of his genuine concern about the industry, his co-workers and his clients. He answered all our questions simply and honestly and made us feel this was a man we would like to do business with. Nazy Curtis is someone we take special pleasure in sharing with you because of her remarkable training and professional skills. Then there’s allstar Dino, recognized by AHLC and loved by his peers. Dino explains what a joy it is to have his daughter take over the business and move it into new territory. And the man we once called the “sleeping giant” is back in our pages because Jackie Yu just keeps growing and adding services. As we write this editorial, Jackie and his wife, Doris are attending a hair conference in China. Yes, they work for their success and we are happy to share their story.

Letter To The Editor Dear Editor, Thank you for the positive press contained in the most recent issue of the National Hair Journal. I’m afraid I either misstated or was not clear about my new position with LaserCap®. I am the Executive Director for LaserCap®, in charge of sales, support and marketing. Dr. Robert Haber remains our company president and Dr. Michael Rabin handles product design and manufacturing. “Dr. Haber has been a huge supporter of LaserCap® since its introduction in 2006 by inventor, Dr. Michael Rabin. Dr. Haber is a luminary in the field of hair restoration, as his award as a Golden Follicle recipient from the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgeons attests. His continued support of our efforts to produce the best, science-based light delivery system for hair growth for the hair loss sufferer. The marketplace for LLLT has become robust and many products have been introduced since Dr. Rabin and MIT-trained optical physicist, David Smith, PhD, created the first wearable device. Thanks to his and other notable hair loss experts, Dr. Haber continues to provide input on the new technology and research that is part of the LaserCap Story.” Warm Regards, John Vincent

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

Meet David Schwartz President Hair Visions

The next step brought me some valuable new business exposure. I was convinced to get involved with a sales organization called WMI, a multi-level sales group. My sales training and experience was honed when I starting cold-call selling household products door to door for one year. I eventually bought a franchise; training and motivating a sales force for 6 years… but that’s another story. One day, by chance, I came across a recruitment ad for a position with the On Rite Company. Of course I had no idea at that time who On Rite was, or even what hair replacement was, but I came in for an interview anyway. I was fortunate to meet with Andy (Wright) and I spent between three and four hours with him late one Thursday afternoon. I still recall it quite vividly. It was 2001, and I even remember my wife texting me. She thought I had been in a car accident, because she’d never heard of an interview taking that long. Needless to say, Andy hired me and I started four weeks later.

On Rite was established forty-one years ago by its charismatic and visionary founder, Andy Wright. Andy did whatever it took to grow and develop the company to the dominant role it plays in the industry today. It is typical of his energy and competitive nature that he even applied for his private pilot’s license early in his career so he could provide better and faster service to his expanding customer base. Perhaps it was because of the company’s dynamism and Andy’s vision that the company was acquired in 2009 by Hiking, a worldwide trading consortium. Andy Wright retired in January 2016, and was replaced by his handpicked successor, David Schwartz. David was joined in this interview by VP, sales & marketing, Lance Centofanti.

National Hair Journal - David, thank you for breaking into your busy day to chat with us… Many people came into the hair management market because of their own hair loss. They may have been clients or simply wanted to help other people, but you had a very different professional background. What brought you to the special and private world of hair replacement. David Schwartz: My introduction was not the result of any personal need… although my hair is receding a little these days. I actually started my career in the healthcare industry. I was a Radiologic Technologist; an X-ray Technician. That’s what I went to school for, later returning to get a Bachelor’s degree in healthcare administration. But after seventeen years in healthcare - and after one predator after another kept buying the company - it was time for a change. I had recently been promoted to Vice President and was doing quite well when I made the decision to move on.

I didn’t know anything about hair replacement other than there are people who need more hair. I certainly wasn’t aware that there was even such an industry out there. But what I did see once I got started was the passion the folks at On Rite had for helping customers and, through them, the consumer. I was able to relate to that because as an X-ray Tech, I worked with patients every day. My job didn’t only involve taking x-rays, it required making patients comfortable while they were in my care - and some of the exams were not very pleasant. I always tried to make them feel at ease as though I were treating my parents or grandparents. I always felt I had the personality to help other people so that was the number one thing that attracted me to On Rite; their commitment to customer satisfaction. Everything else was totally different: I learned about the hair loss industry from the people I worked with, especially Andy Wright. I was enthralled with this new business, getting to know the needs of the retailers, and understanding the pain of the consumer. My most valuable insights came from visiting retail outlets to see how they interacted with their customers and the hearing about the requirements of the technicians. NHJ: We understand you were not a total novice… DS: That’s right. I did know a little bit about the beauty industry because I’ve been married for over thirty years to a hairdresser. My wife’s been a hairdresser for as long as I’ve known her. By the way, do you recall what Andy’s office used to look like? NHJ: We remember it very well. DS: Remember all those boxes of hair and papers lined up on the floor? Well, I’m going to scan the camera around the room because I want to show you what it looks like now. The reason I’m showing you this is because customers, who’ve visited in the last four months can’t believe the

metamorphosis! NHJ: (Camera show meticulously clean office…) It doesn’t look like you’re very busy, David! DS: I know… Actually, all I do all day is water my plants (laughs…). Lance Centofanti: He’s very busy. Believe me. Very busy! NHJ: What are the other things you learned from Andy? DS: Easy. Customers always came first. He would do anything for a customer. He imparted that commitment to all his employees. As for as his management style, when you start a business you have to get closely involved in every aspect of it and sometimes it’s a little hard to let go. I have a slightly different philosophy and it’s to transition Hair Visions from a CEO-led company to a management-

“At our Transformation Expo in March, pretty much all we did was focus on a better future.” led company. What I mean by that is I’m surrounded by talented people at every level… and I don’t have all the answers. I can depend on our marketing people, our accounting people… the Lance Centofanti’s… to make many decisions based on their expertise. That’s what helps me to manage and drive the business today. NHJ: Let’s talk about the market. What are the biggest challenges facing our industry today? DS: What I see and what our customers see are probably the same thing. Rising production costs are number one. Online competition probably comes next. The Internet is a wonderful thing, but it’s also killing a lot of businesses. For example, “Sports Authority” is going out of business and online hair sales have begun to hurt our industry too. It’s definitely affecting all distributors, Hair Visions being one of them. Another challenge is reaching the younger generation, the millennials? We’re not doing a great job of that right now. It’s more difficult to attract first-time customers today than it was in the past and that’s a concern not only to us, but to the retailers. We continue to create effective marketing material, but we still have to convince our clients to purchase and utilize it. If they don’t, new customers are not going to come into their centers. Our main obligation is to help grow the customer base.

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

NHJ: It is a paradox that young people today are tattooing and all kinds of things to express their individuality, but hair additions are not part of the equation. The hair industry seems to have missed the boat. DS: Anything that we want to try that’s unique or different is going to take a huge amount of money to create and the industry does not have that kind of money. Even if all the distributors were to chip in and create this, “Got Milk” campaign, it would still take millions and millions of dollars. “Got Milk” was brilliant, but obviously we don’t have the resources to do something like that. Be that as it may, it doesn’t mean that we should put our tail between our legs and run away. We still can and must grow the industry. I believe there are other methods of attracting millennials. Everything today is digital. Everything is video. We’re trying everything to create fresh content for retailers to display or put on the air. We really want them to try it. It’s a mindset change. As younger retailers come in, they will bring a better understanding the needs and habits of their peers and how to communicate with them. Marketing today is a lot different to the way it was forty or fifty years ago. Newspaper advertising alone doesn’t cut it these days if it’s not accompanied by digital content like video or Facebook or Twitter. Retailers have got to try a little of everything. Unfortunately, some people who have been in the business for a while may be afraid to try it, or just don’t understand this type of marketing. NHJ: The Hair Journal attempted to go 100% digital, but 80-85% of our readers objected. They wanted to hold something in their hands. They wanted to be able to pick up previous issues and read articles again. Subscribers, including Andy, would keep a pile of historical copies and revisit them. DS: Printed material is something that people connect with it in a very personal way. NHJ: Let’s move forward to another challenge. It seems to us that there is a need for new leadership in the market. Things are changing quickly, and although a cosmetologist may be outstanding in his or her own field, they need a new skillset and depth of knowledge about hair loss. How does Hair Visions satisfy those needs? DS: I’m glad you asked that question. At our Transformation Expo in March, pretty much all we did was focus on a better future. We created a platform called the VIP Program for our customers. It’s a minimal fee and they get their hand held literally by some of the top experts in our field. We have a marketing team that’s made up of incredible people. I’m not talking specifically about On Rite employees. These are outside vendors that we have been working with for the last year. People like Barbara Goldstein, Media Power, who’s been with us for twenty years, Jerry Schroeder, eCompass Agency or Neil Greenberg & Associates for PR. Everything that you can think of that is in the digital world today. These guys were all at our conference. Their services are available through the VIP Program to help retailers with many different things from marketing videos on their website, to creating and managing social media or reviewing websites. Obviously attracting leads through your website is very important today and frankly some of the websites out there

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

are just not attractive to a millennial client. So our team of marketing people is available to walk them through the processes of digital and traditional marketing as well as other business strategies. One key expert is Ed Gawerecki (Success Coach) who has run Hans Wiemann’s business for many years. He’s been working with us since January 2016 and is now heading up the VIP and other Programs. Ed’s been on conference calls and out visiting retailers. The program seems to be making a big impact in the industry. NHJ: Let’s talk about innovation in the hair marketplace.

Lance Centofanti “Trichology

is probably one of the hottest words right now in the beauty industry, the anti-aging industry, and now hair replacement.”

There is exciting new research in the medical field, things like PRP, Platelet Enriched plasma and new surgical techniques like FUE. In the technology arena we’re seeing new laser light devices cleared by the FDA. What are the exciting new things in the world of hair additions and hair replacement? DS: I’d love to tell you that there’s brand new, spectacular, awesome technology for hair replacement. Every year, Hair Visions introduces new hair products for women’s and men’s hair replacement, but there’s nothing that I can showcase that’s so unique it’s going to revolutionize the marketplace. However, there are other avenues that we believe retailers should be looking at. Besides laser therapy and PRP therapy, there’s trichology. Trichology is probably one of the hottest words right now in the beauty industry, the anti-aging industry, and now hair replacement. We’re fortunate to be the U.S. distributer for the “Head First” program from Capilia in Canada. We got involved with them a several months ago, and to quote Lance Centofanti, We’re doing a “phenomenal job” getting retailers to bring a trichology regimen and products into their business. It’s actually a certification program; we’re the only company offering a three-day certification program with a complete line of anti-aging products. We also offer a complete marketing campaign with commercials that work hand-inhand with those products. It doesn’t end there; we have ongoing support to assist retailers once they complete the training. We’re very proud of it. I think this is a good way to

attract millennials who may or may not be losing their hair, but are concerned about keeping their hair healthy for as long as possible. Healthy hair and healthy scalp, you can’t have one without the other. NHJ: In Asia, particularly Korea, haircare and skincare begins in the teens. DS: Exactly. Our products can also be used with consumers who have already lost a lot of their hair, just to keep their scalps fresh and clean. Obviously when you’re wearing hair, some people break out and have rashes and have some issues. These products help with that. Then, there are people who have maybe only 10-15% thinning hair and they can use laser therapy to maintain what they still have. And for those folks who have a full head of hair, we have a hair maintenance regimen. Some people are concerned that if you get into trichology it’s going to take away from their core business of hairpieces and wigs, but that’s not true. It’s an add-on value to their existing business. It brings in new customers who’ll probably need to wear hair someday. It’s a wonderful add-on service that they’ll miss out on if they’re not doing it. NHJ: Trichology is the science of understanding the underlying reasons for hair loss then proposing the appropriate solution. Do you see Hair Visions offering other services; for example, medical services in the same way Aderans does through Hair Club and Bosley? DS: I don’t see us getting involved on the medical side at this time. We need to remain focused on how we get people into our core business, which is men’s and women’s hair replacement, not surgical. That said, we have become involved with trichology and lasers. I know PRP is becoming very popular, but it’s not something that we’re able to provide because it has to be managed by a medical facility. If you were to ask Lance, who is sitting next to me for his definition of trichology, he would probably say, It’s the combination of dermatology and cosmetology to form a beautiful marriage.” Lance Centofanti: I would say exactly that. Yeah. Not to interfere with this interview, but just to add a couple of thoughts, “Head First Certified Hair Renewal Centers” they get to differentiate themselves that way - can state that their clients’ diagnosis will be conducted by a “Certified Head First Trichology Specialist.” Even though we’re not physicians or dermatologists, we clearly communicate our professional expertise. I think this education-based approach will be reassuring to millennials, the customers of today. It will also help their existing customers who suffer from any type of scalp issues that the salon does not have an answer for right now. For example, if someone’s got an irritation problem, we now have the tools to diagnose and treat it. NHJ: “On Rite” to “Hair Visions International” - why the name change? DS: Good question. First of all, our corporate name still remains “On Rite Company, Incorporated.” “On Rite” has been associated with the men’s hair replacement business since 1975. However, as we expanded into the women’s line, “Gemtress,” then the extension line, “UltraTress,” and then acquired “Tressallure” fashion ready-to-wear wigs,

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

Model is wearing top-of-head system: Trend Ready.

INTRODUCING

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Give your clients AMAZING STYLE in LESS TIME. Offer your clients the ultimate solution in hair replacement with the finest non-surgical systems on the market today. Trend Ready is an exclusive top-of-head system available only to Virtual Reality Studios. See the results for yourself! Watch the before and after video at hairuwear.com/american-hairlines.

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

and the “Simplicity extension” brand which is now merged under the Ultratress brand, things became very confusing not only to ourselves, but to customers. When someone said, “On Rite,” we really didn’t know if they were talking about the company or the product, meaning the brand. So we decided to create, “Hair Visions International” as the umbrella corporation and then list all the individual brands underneath. So we are now known as “Hair Visions International,” with “On Rite” being the men’s brand, and “Gemtress” the women’s and so on. Hair Visions is simply an umbrella name for On Rite Company. We never changed the legal name. We just added something to make it less confusing, we think [Laughter] NHJ: When you look at the beauty industry, every successful personal care company has had a strong personality behind it whether it’s a Sy Sperling, a Paul Mitchell, a Randy… or an Andy. Do you see yourself becoming the face of the new Hair Visions company? DS: I would like to answer that by saying, “Yes,” however, there’s a difference between being a CEO-driven company and a management-driven company. I don’t expect to fill Andy’s shoes the way he did. Obviously Andy had an

“I think that perception of self-image is more important today than it was years ago. Forty-one years ago we were in the hair replacement business. Today we’re in the self-image business.” expertise that I don’t have. I’m not talking about running the business. I’m talking about him at one point being a cosmetologist working in a wig factory, going out on the road literally selling hair out of his trunk. I don’t have that particular experience, and at my age, I don’t believe I’m going to get it. But I do have the business expertise. I understand the industry. And I’m surrounded by a talented team. So I don’t think I’m doing myself a disfavor by saying no, I won’t be the face of the company. I believe the face of the company is the team. NHJ: New Image and On Rite company; sister companies with distinct personalities - can you explain and rationalize

their side-by-side relationship? DS: I knew that was one of the questions you would probably going to ask, so I’m going to get it on the table now. There have been rumors that we’re already combined and merged, and of course, that’s not true. I want to make sure all your readers understand that we are two separate entities. As you said, we’re two different personalities with two distinct different ways of doing business even though we’re owned by the same parent company. One day Hiking may decide that it’s in their best interest to combine certain administrative portions of the two companies, but I don’t believe that they would condense the marketing or the sales. Again, two different ways of doing business, even though we operate in the same marketplace. I don’t see that happening. I think that would be detrimental to be quite honest with you. NHJ: Both companies have been successful because of those distinctive personalities. Will Hiking give you the freedom to maintain that independence? DS: Yes, I’ve been told that and I personally believe it. I don’t think it would be wise to upset the applecart with regards to market share, which would probably happen if they were to combine the two companies. Of course, there’d be economies of scale, but I believe that whatever New Image is known for - or Hair Visions is known for - would disappear, and that would be bad for not only Hiking, but for the marketplace itself. NHJ: Major packaged goods manufacturers like Unilever and P&G develop and manage competing brands, so what works for the big dogs will surely work for the hair replacement market. Moving along, here’s an opportunity to promote the company by completing the following sentence: “Hair Visions deserves to be your hair distributer because...” DS: First of all, 2016 marks our 41st year of serving our customer base. We celebrate that by continuing to offer innovative products and adding new services like “Head First” trichology and our VIP program. We don’t just sell products. We offer tremendous education and support here at the Academy and on the road with regional seminars. We’re constantly going into retail centers and helping them build their business. We believe that education is a crucial part of our industry and our business. We’re one of the few distributers that are still creating annual marketing campaigns and programs. We’ve invested a lot of money in these programs over the past few years, and this year is no exception. We’ve created three men’s and women’s videos, internet website programs for multifaceted solutions as well as dedicated nonsurgical hair replacement. These are things that we continue to invest in because we believe that just selling the product is not going to grow the industry. Retailers need these new methods and new marketing messages to attract millennials and new customers of any age. Going beyond that, I think that perception of self-image is more important today than it was years ago. Forty-one years ago we were in the hair replacement business. Today we’re in the self-image business, we’re in the antiaging business, we’re in the surgical hair restoration business. We are totally different today. This is not something new Continued Pg. 16

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

Continues on Pg 10-11

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

Technician, Master Stylist Entrepreneur Nazy Curtis Has It All

hairloss center and the salon are both located in the same building, but they each have different entrances. Hair loss clients meet with a consultant in one of the three private rooms, but once their consultation is finished and they have chosen a wig or hair addition, they can come to the main salon and sit next to other ‘regular’ clients with hair to get their wig cut and styled. This is deliberate - it makes our clients feel comfortable and normal. Many of my them say this is something they haven’t done for years. They tell me it used to be a tough move to go to a hair salon, but now it’s a gift to be able to sit next to everybody else and simply feel normal and complete. NHJ: It must be rewarding to restore their composure and confidence. NC: It really is, but it all came about by chance. I mean what are the odds that a stylist would spend years training in Hamburg, Germany, move to the United States, open a salon, then lose all her own hair and later be diagnosed with breast cancer and end up as a hair replacement specialist? Now I have a deeper understanding of my clients’ needs, and for this I am grateful.

Sometimes we meet someone whose skills or story is so exceptional we have to share it with Hair Journal readers. Nazy Curtis is a hair loss expert who meets both conditions. She is a uniquely qualified professional, a successful entrepreneur and a hairloss sufferer herself. Nazy is from Germany and she trained with the best experts that Europe has to offer. We are fortunate that she chose to make her career here in the US where she runs Newport Hair Loss Center in fashionable Newport Beach, a second studio in La Jolla, a well-heeled community near San Diego, and a third center in Century City. She also runs the d’Orsay, The Art of Hair salon and a manufacturing business that sells wigs, extensions and integrations under the brand name Amani. National Hair Journal: Nazy, you have a broad range of skills. What is the principal focus of your business? Nazy Curtis: We have a special concern for men and women suffering from medical hairloss, but we also offer regular hair styling and cutting to the general public in addition to hair additions and enhancements. I opened my first hair salon in Newport Beach back in 1995, but in 1999 things changed dramatically when I began to lose my own hair. In a short period of time I ended up losing it completely. So the following year, I created Newport Hair Loss Center. The

NHJ: It’s not by chance that you run a successful business. You received probably the best training available in cosmetology today. You had the good fortune to start your career in a country that has a unique education and apprenticeship program and you then went on to build on that already impressive foundation. NC: German cosmetology education is very thorough. You have to complete a month and a half of introductory training before you’re even allowed to shampoo. You start by doing the basics; washing the bowls, cleaning up the salon. Then, once a week you get to do hands-on training, and twice a

“We pay special attention to the scalp. Everybody talks about dry ends or dry hair, but nobody talks about their scalp.”

week you go to school. At school, they teach you chemistry, mathematics, psychology, politics, and even language skills. They teach you the art of hair design and styling, but they also provide serious instruction on the structure and health of the hair, something people now call “trichology.” We learned all this in school. Looking back, I realize how amazing that training really was, but at the time we took it all for granted. I remember I used to ask, “Why do I need politics?” and my instructor would answer, “When your clients talk to you, you need to be confident and informed.

Even a stylist is supposed to know many things, not just talk about hair all the time.” But that was only one part of our education. There was also extensive hands-on training. One key technique was the art of massaging the head during a shampoo. Many cosmetologists today don’t do that. They just wash the hair for two minutes and they’re done. In my training, if you didn’t massage the head correctly, you would be set back another month to do the basics again before you were allowed to try shampooing a client once more. And that’s just the shampooing! Then there was cutting. I remember cutting bobs… we had to practice cutting bobs for eight months! How could someone need to cut bobs for eight months, you might ask, but it makes sense. The way you have to part the hair, the way you have to pull the hair… it’s an art and it takes a lot of practice. It is very important to set extremely high standards. That’s why the apprenticeship lasts three years. When you finish your apprenticeship, you have achieved a serious professional milestone. It’s not just a certification. In Germany, it’s like the completion of a trade school, but even with this qualification, they still won’t allow you to open your own salon. You must now work for a further eight years before you can set up your own business. That’s eleven years in total! So for three years you do your apprenticeship, then you must do a further eight years of professional work as a cosmetologist. Then, if you’re really ambitious, after those eight years, the authorities will allow you to enroll in a further one-year “Masters” program that provides high-level instruction in business management. Now you’re learning about the psychology of the employee, principles of accounting and organizational skills that will help you successfully manage your own salon. It’s a great program and it’s almost unheard of anywhere else. When I tell people I got my “Masters” in 1992, they don’t understand the effort and experience that went into it. When I came to the US, I applied for a job in at a small salon in Texas. I wanted something close by because I was afraid of driving on the freeway and wanted to ride to work on my bike. I listed my Masters qualification on my resume and added the nine months of training with L’Oréal in Paris and another six months working with Vidal Sassoon in London. So I gave the salon this list and next day I asked, “So what do you think… can I get a job here?” And the manager says, “I need to see you to cut hair before I can let you start.” I replied, “I’m sorry, but, did you look at my

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

resume?” She said yes she had, but she clearly didn’t understand my qualifications. Of course, I didn’t work there. I said thank you very much, grabbed my resume and left. My standards are very high. After all that training, how could they be otherwise? My scissors, which are Cobalt 5000 are a precision tool and here was a salon manager asking me to cut hair for $7.50! It was time to rethink the whole game plan. I realized that I was completely unknown and that no one understood my credentials, but I wasn’t prepared to lower my standards. So in 1995 I took things into my own hands, opened my own place and called it “d’Orsay the Art of Hair.” I wanted to provide the kind of service I had spent years preparing for. The only thing that stopped me was the fact that I then proceeded to lose my hair virtually overnight!

Newport Hairloss Center, CA

NHJ: Vidal Sassoon has a rigorous training program and philosophy, and L’Oréal is a market leader not only in hair, but also in beauty and personal care. What did you gain from those two experiences? NC: It was an amazing experience… I could write a book

about my training at L’Oréal! It’s is a major investment for companies to enroll a young stylist in intensive training programs like these. You not only learn new skills, you also gain insights into the way they run their own businesses. I was surprised at first when Vidal Sassoon said they wanted to send me to Paris for training, but first I had to sign a contract saying I would remain with them for two years. But looking back, it makes business sense because the L’Oréal training is very expensive. Vidal Sassoon wanted me to use that coloring expertise on their clients, so of course I said yes. In Paris we learned not just the chemistry of color but also the psychology of color. Today, nobody really talks about the kinds of color that fit a person’s character and personality, but it is fundamental. Turns out I am a “Winter,” believe it or not. Other people may be Spring or Summer. It was very in-depth training. Once we understood the psychology of who should have what color, we learned how to keep hair healthy and how to maintain its integrity. I returned to L’Oréal twice more over a period of three years after that for more instruction and training. NHJ: So with this extraordinary background you came to the United States and ended up opening up your own business. Then I don’t want to say tragedy struck because you’re fit and well today and very successful, but certainly, you

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

took a hit just as you were getting started. How did that change your perspective? NC: I remember that time very vividly. When my hair first started coming out, I rushed to the doctor who told me that I had alopecia areata and it could develop into alopecia universalis. I was incredulous, “I don’t think so. I’m a hairdresser; I cannot have alopecia. I’m going to make it stop!” So we did a lot of injections, we did a lot of laser and this and that… and nothing worked. My hair just kept falling out.

“Because of my own situation and needs, I began to design and manufacture my own wigs. And, miraculously, from that moment on, everything just took on a life of its own.” One night when I was brushing my hair in the bathroom and saw all the hair in the brush I told myself, Nazy you have two choices. You don’t have any other business skills, so you have to get up, dust yourself off, and take care of your new business. Share your knowledge. You are not alone; share what you are going through. Make people happy, make people look good, take care of your employees. There was no choice; giving up was absolutely not an option. The next day I put a hat on, and went back to work. I still have pictures of myself during that difficult time - the steroids they injected into me gave me a moon face. So here I am with my moon face and the ugly hat trying to launch a beauty business. And I’m in a strange country where I don’t know anything about their culture – nothing! Nothing at all! It was a harrowing time. I actually I wrote a book called “No One Could Tell” that describes the whole terrifying journey. So I continued doing hair… and because of my own situation and needs, I began to design and manufacture my own wigs. And, miraculously, from that moment on, everything just took on a life of its own. NHJ: Tell us about the wigs you designed. What made them different? NC: One of the big challenges was the quality of the base cap. It had to be perfect not only for my clients, but also for me. I was not just a business owner; I was the mother of two very active kids. When I went swimming with my kids, the cap had to remain comfortable and secure. When I first started production some 20 years ago, caps were not as reliable as the better ones today. The hair itself was another challenge! Finding good quality hair with the cuticle still intact was not easy, but it was vital if I wanted it to behave exactly like growing hair. It took a lot of effort, but today

I am proud of the high quality, true European hair, we can offer. You can color it, you can cut it, and most importantly, it will have the same character as the client’s original hair. That’s what makes my product great. I know some other companies have great hair too, but what makes us different is that I am a client too – and an extremely demanding one. NHJ: Your studio locations are in very prestigious neighborhoods so clearly your business has prospered and become successful. NC: Yes. NHJ: Do you only sell ladies wigs or are there other products as well? NC: We sell ladies wigs and top pieces and, of course, we support clients who suffer from trichotillomania and female pattern baldness. We also offer eyelash extensions and additions. They’re really amazing. They have a cotton base that helps them stay on a bare eyelid. We also have shampoos and conditioners. Our conditioner is water based so it doesn’t weigh down the hair. These products are great because they work equally well for clients with and without natural hair. There is no such thing as one product for your wig and another for your growing hair. To us, all hair is the same quality. We pay special attention to the scalp. Everybody talks about dry ends or dry hair, but nobody talks about their scalp. So we offer a serum that doesn’t promise that you’re going to get all your hair back, but it does promise healthy skin and the right conditions for your hair to flourish. NHJ: The people reading this interview are themselves hair loss professionals. Can they buy these products from you? NC: We have a program called our “Trusted Stylist Program” which entitles qualified participants to buy our products at wholesale. NHJ: Before we finish, we should commend you on your command of the English language. Did you come to the United States speaking good English? NC: I speak four languages, German, Spanish, Farsi and English. My English is not as good as I would like it to be… but my slang is improving! The German accent is going to follow me for the rest of my life, I guess. My writing is better than my spoken English because I get very excited, and once I get excited I mix everything up. NHJ: If people wanted to learn more about what you do, how could they reach you? NC: The best thing would be to email me at ncurtis@newporthairlosscenter. I would love to talk to them because we also offer business coaching with great people that work for companies like Coca-Cola and Universal Studios. We have a superb team of experts that can help take their businesses to the next level. NHJ: A farewell question, what are you going to do when we finish this interview? NC: Today is not a client service day. Today is my ‘working on the business day,’ which usually means sorting the hair - we just received tons of it and we have to check every bundle one by one. That’s going to be a very tedious work. NHJ This interview was a wonderful reprieve…

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

L o ve & L i f e w i t h H a i r L o s s P a rt I I

By Amy Gibson Hair Lovers - This is a sneak peek at a chapter that will be included in the updated version of Sex, Wigs & Whispers now in development, but I wanted to take it for a test run here in The Hair Journal with all of you. Along with being a wig wearer and a retailer for over 15 years, there is the one common feeling that I’ve experienced with my clients which I am sure many of you have as well with yours: it’s the feeling the client has of a wig or hair piece being “foreign” to them on many levels, emotionally and physically. We know that within a short amount of time the wig does become innate for the wearer. It’s crazy but when it happened to me I was shocked -and so relieved. However, there is a process one must go through before experiencing this ease which includes grief, anger and acceptance before the final point of embracing our power and new found beauty. Although this may sound challenging, it’s empowering in the end. It is this process that allows us to move into the wig-shopping / wearing process successfully. Once the client truly understands that the possibility of feeling, looking and living like the woman they have always been or desires to be is absolutely possible, then the journey changes from challenging to positive, from constricted to freeing, and from depressed to exhilarating. This makes our journey with them so much easier - and more loving. This new chapter entitled, “Bus Stop” tells the ‘now funny’ story about what happened one day in NY when I learned for the first time just how much my wig had become an extension of my being. Enjoy, Amy

BUS STOP Ah yes, like death and taxes, two things you can always count on when taking good old New York City public transportation are that the wheels on the bus continue to go round and round and you can definitely expect the unexpected. Take me for instance. I was sweating out a particularly miserable ride in record heat, nose to nose with my fellow passengers when, with one bump of a pothole, I was flung wig-first onto the watchband of the most gorgeous guy I’d ever seen. Talk about a catch! Well, I know, admittedly, it wasn’t an ideal setting, but he was h-a-n-d-s-o-m-e. So much so, I momentarily forgot

about my little ‘situation’ involving my ‘hair’ being entangled in his watchband. But remembering the excitement of that instant has caused me to get ahead of myself, ladies. So, let me rewind to the time when I first boarded the bus. As I said, it was one of those unbearably hot and humid summer in the city days when all you really want to do is dance naked – if not for the very real threat of typhoid – in the East River. During the course of my jockeying for a strap on which to hang my weary little hand, the seas metaphorically parted as a true Adonis, seemingly heaven sent from the gods above, entered the scene. With sea green eyes, and blond hair, he stood a stunning 6’4’’. Unfortunately, upon initial entry, he kept getting stuck between the other passengers who appeared like peasants as this Viking-like creature continued to cut his path through the crowd and in my direction. Finally, he ended

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

up standing right in front of me (which also meant his gaze was directly focused on the top of my head which gave me more than a little cause for concern). However, my mantra, which has always served me well, is: when in Fear... smile. That’s right. Remember, chuckling is always the best offense. And so it is...and so I did. And it worked! For it

“He had contributed to a wonderful and profound learning experience that would forever change my life. Because most importantly, I’d discovered that sweet place for myself of, take me or leave me...as I am.” wasn’t a minute later that we were engaged in utterly delightful and relaxing conversation. He began by apologizing for accidentally bumping into me a few times, and I threw my ‘hair’ back like Rita Hayworth in Gilda and replied with all of the charm I could muster, ‘’Don’t be ridiculous, this is the NYC MTA, after all!” Now, back to where we left off...the “hook up”. After the initial shock of my being caught in his watchband wore off, I was actually frightened that when he moved his arm to disembark he was going to take my wig with him as he got off at the next stop. Instead, I looked up and acted like my real hair was being pulled. He kept subtly yanking backwards, forcing my head forward, as he tried to unhook us, while I continued to pull my head back toward me attempting to untangle us, holding my wig down in the back for security; and, of course, the appearance of having a ‘real head of hair’. It’s truly fascinating, after being without my hair for so long how easily my wig became so innate. It was utterly automatic, as if he really was pulling my “own hair”. But this was a first and I was very nervous. I could literally hear my heart pounding. I finally said, “Wait, stop... just let me do this my way..., My hair’s a little sensitive.” After working on it for about 5-10 seconds, all the while being bumped from side to side, the hair became untangled and free of his watch. However, there was that moment when the anxiety was surging through my blood. And I had come to realize, it’s truly okay that this happened because it’s absolutely normal. There’s not a person who hasn’t experienced that level of unbridled irrational fear sometime in their life. Before I knew it, my anxiety gave way to raucous outright laughter to which he easily joined in - even though he was certainly laughing for a totally different reason than I was. In fact, he actually seemed to think it was cute. “Little did he know...” Then he invited me out for coffee to make up for all of the ‘trauma.’ At first I was exhilarated, but then the usual fear came up and the same old rhetoric that I had told myself for years, “I wonder if he can handle it?” “I bet he has a thousand

girls with gorgeous hair - why would he want a bald one!” I quickly dismissed those thoughts and sat down. Just as I had imagined, he was sweet, funny, absolutely charming, sexy as hell, and yes.... recently separated. Although a hopeless romantic, after all the heartache I had just gone through with my ex- boyfriend, I just couldn’t take it again. I swore “No more repeat performances in my life.” I wanted someone who was emotionally and physically available the next time around. Because I didn’t want to be with another ‘man getting out of a marriage,’ I knew there was no future; I would not be speaking with him anytime soon, so I decided to do something I had never done: ...ask someone I barely knew if he was aware that I was wearing a wig. “You’re kidding right?” He responded, as a gentleman. “No seriously?” and I proceeded to give him the “Readers Digest” version of my life with Alopecia. I purposely asked him – did you have any idea when my hair caught on to your watch? He responded, “Absolutely not – can I feel it?” Wow – this was a first -- a complete stranger. I thought “Hmm – what the hell – got nothing to lose – go for it Ames” – and I proceeded to place my hand over his (keeping myself in control) and placed it on my head, allowing him to feel the wig. “Amazing – I would never have guessed – you are so beautiful. Really beautiful”. My insecurity flared up for a moment as I thought he’s probably just appeasing me trying to make me feel better. I immediately dismissed it - took a breath and then continued to explain that this was a first for me, etc. He couldn’t have been more sensitive and kind and supportive. He complimented me on my strength, and I complimented him on his depth. I chose not to exchange contact information; although, ladies, he did ask. So off he went. Never to be seen again. However, he had contributed to a wonderful and profound learning experience that would forever change my life. Because most importantly, I’d discovered that sweet place for myself of, “take me or leave me...as I am.” TIP (Perspiration) - The first secret is purchasing a lightweight, breathable wig. As I always say, “Hold your wig up to the light. If you can see through it, you can breathe through it.” If you find your wig tape releasing and your wig moving, just press down on the tape and see if it adheres any better to your skin. If not, run into the nearest bathroom and take off your wig, clean your head with soap and water, skin toner, or witch hazel and pat your head dry. Then replace the tape onto your wig and you’re set!

AFFIRMATION: I OWN MY CONDITION. MY CONDITION DOESN’T OWN ME. NHJ

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

Hair Art Expands Founded over 30 years ago by Jackie and Doris Yu, HairArt has become a leading appliance and accessories manufacturer in the hair-management marketplace. Sister company, House of European Hair, offers wigs, hair extensions, partial hair pieces, add-ons and men’s hair systems. In addition to distributing hair products to retailers, HairArt also owns and operates three hair replacement studios in California and has recently expanded operations to include a major new center in Arizona. To learn more about Hair Art’s future plans, The National Hair Journal met with Jackie Yu at the company’s distribution center in Gardena. National Hair Journal - You have just made an important investment. What was it and what does it mean? Jackie Yu: I have just acquired National Care Centers in Phoenix Arizona. I knew the founder, Arnold Zimmerman who was a great visionary and businessman. When he passed away a few years ago, his daughter, Lisa took over the business, but she would now like to spend more time supporting local charities and giving back to society in other ways. So when I learned of the opportunity to buy this business, I jumped right in because I believe we can keep Arnold’s dream alive and make it great again! NHJ - You already have three centers in California and this brings you a fourth location in Arizona. Is this the beginning of a national network? Jackie – Yes, we are expanding as and when it makes good business sense. We are now probably the largest hair replacement group on the West Coast. We believe that hair replacement and enhancement is still a good business - we just have to improve its image and the public’s understanding of the good work we do. NHJ - A large and expanding business is always nice, but that success depends upon a proficient and educated workforce. What are you doing to provide support and education? Jackie – We are committed to high standards. Over the last couple of years, many business owners have asked us for technical training and in response to that, we recently built a conference and training facility in California. NHJ - Readers know from previous interviews (published in The Hair Journal) that you grew up in the hair business, but you have at your side another quiet but talented professional in your wife, Doris. Jackie – That’s right. We’ve been working together as husband and wife for 40 years. Not only is Doris very knowledgeable, she also developed a lot of new techniques that have benefited the industry. Now she wants to pass on the things she has learned and we believe the best way to do this is through hands-on instruction in a properly equipped classroom. NHJ - You have just completed a new education and video center. What programs are you offering retailers? Jackie – We’ve developed a series of three-day classes and a separate two-week in-salon experience where stylists and technicians can work alongside top professionals as they ser-

vice actual clients. NHJ - How can stylists learn about these educational events? Jackie – The best way is through our website, www.houseofeuropeanhair.com, but they can always call 888-HAIR-ART to find out what’s on the calendar. NHJ - When is your next workshop scheduled? Jackie – The next class is scheduled October 2-4. We have follow-up classes on January 8-10 2017 and April 2-4, 2017. The 2-week individual in salon working with our stylists and actual hair art clients are by request. Studios should call to set those up. NHJ - One of the things that sets you apart is the fact that you wear your own hair designs, manufacture your own hair and distribute your own hair. Why is this an advantage to retailers? Jackie – Simple. We understand what our retailers need because we are one of them. We know the problems and frustrations they face every day and we can give them practical answers to their questions. As I said earlier, we been doing this for 40 years; working behind the chair, in the office and in the factory. There isn’t much we haven’t seen. We like to say that 99% of the time we have an answer for anything that is likely to come up. NHJ - Sitting here today, are you wearing your own hair? Jackie – Yes. I’ve been wearing hair since my early 30’s. NHJ - And Doris is in one of your studios supervising the technicians or working with clients. So the family is fully involved as we talk today? Jackie – Yes. NHJ - To summarize, retailers can benefit from your years of experience through technical workshops, and can take advantage of your styling aids and products resources which include a selection of virgin European hair; possibly the largest in the country. Jackie – Yes, we have the hair, the skills and the products. NHJ - Looking into the future, you have just made a substantial commitment to National Hair Centers, where do you go from here? Jackie – Our priority right now is to deliver the best service to customers at National Hair Centers. But looking beyond Phoenix, it’s an increasingly visual world. People will always want to look good. We’re very optimistic about the future! NHJ

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

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just because David Schwartz is in charge now. We’ve been thinking about this for years, but we’re putting a huge effort into it today with the help of people like Lance Centofanti, Rhonda McCarthy, and all of my Operations team. We all believe the same thing. Our goal is to get our retailers to recognize the opportunities, buy into the program lock, stock and barrel and begin to bring in those new customers. NHJ: Let’s turn from the marketplace, to the man behind the President. You started the interview by saying you were first motivated to become part of the hair replacement industry by the ability to make a difference in people’s lives. What drives you today. DS: It’s the employees who work here. They’re a fantastic bunch of people who care as much about the customers as I do. Working with a team that feels that way makes my job easier and keeps me upbeat. You know, we have good days; we have bad days. It’s not like we don’t get customer complaints. We do, and we deal with them. But I can tell you that we’re constantly striving to enhance our service, frequently meeting with our employees, working with the factories, talking to clients, collaborating with our marketing vendors. We’re not doing this in a dark corner with the light

“I want to be remembered as an honest, down to earth, passionate upfront person with a sense of humor who created an encouraging and enjoyable work environment while treating people fairly both from a customer perspective and from an employee perspective.”

USA OFFICE: 4775 Allen Road Zephyrhills FL 33541 : 1.813.788.7468 : +49 (0)30 2089 6831 : +44 (0)20 3286 0094 : +353.(0)1.442.8808 www.prohairlabs.com info@prohairlabs.com

shut off. We’re constantly on the phone with our retailers. This is what makes it exciting. If we were just producing and selling a product then collecting the money, I would find this the most boring job in the world. What makes it interesting for me is hearing from the retailers and learning about their consumers’ needs. I don’t know what tomorrow will bring. We all read about new things that are supposed to grow hair. Who knows if that’s ever going to happen, but if and when it does, we’ll deal with it. In the meantime, we’re going to keep working on the solutions that work best today. One thing that we keep talking about here at On

Rite is accountability. I want to make sure everybody in this building is accountable for the work they do. I want our staff to be able to make a decision - whether it’s an internal management issue or involves one of our customers - and be able to stand by that decision. That’s what makes us a different type of company. It’s a culture of accountability; people making decisions based on their individual expertise. NHJ: This has always been a people-driven business. When The Journal conducts interviews, people always refer to the skills and personalities of the people around them more than they talk about individual products. Andy (Wright) had a great sense of humor, and would dress up as a pirate for a trade conference one year and who knew what he would do next. Those are the things that people remember and probably what brings them back. DS: Agreed. I’ve been with On Rite since 2001, and in my new role as President I still want and need to speak to customers who have suggestions, concerns or issues. If you ask retailers who have met or know me about David Schwartz, they will tell you that I’m authentic, considerate and straightforward. I don’t B.S. them. If I say I’m going to do something, I do it. I follow-up with them even if it’s not the answer that they want to hear. That’s what I want my legacy to be as well. I want to be remembered as an honest, down to earth, passionate upfront person with a sense of humor who created an encouraging and enjoyable work environment while treating people fairly both from a customer perspective and from an employee perspective. NHJ: You have just deprived us of our last question which was going to be what would you like to be remembered for? DS: I’m a mind reader and I’m pretty intuitive, that’s how I knew that you were going to ask me that. [Laughter] NHJ: We’ve talked a lot about your business goals, what happens outside the office? What do you get up to last weekend… or what you wish you had done last weekend? DS: First let me tell you that I’ve been married to my lovely wife for over thirty years and have two lovely daughters. I also have a grandson and a granddaughter. I’ve lived in the Fort Lauderdale area for about twenty-nine years, but I was born and raised in Brooklyn where I’m sure I acquired some street smarts. I wouldn’t want to move back there, but I don’t regret ever growing up in Brooklyn… it’s probably one of the finest places to learn about life. [Laughter]. For recreation, I love to play golf, but please don’t ask me my handicap [Laughter]. I played this past weekend and if I could get out there more often I would. I enjoy drinking red wine and a good scotch once in a while isn’t bad either. I enjoy good humor and try to instill it in both my personal and professional life, sometimes I crack myself up. [Laughter] I really enjoy my music, I like many kinds of music, but most of all I like classic rock from the ‘60s and ‘70s. Real rock and roll! I don’t know if there’ll ever be music like that again. I would consider myself a music enthusiast. I went to most of the concerts when I was a teenager and I still try to see these groups if they’re still touring. So between that, my wine, my golf and my family, I’m a pretty happy and fortunate person right now. NHJ: David, stay that way and thank you for this time together. NHJ

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

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USA OFFICE: 4775 Allen Road Zephyrhills FL 33541 : 1.813.788.7468 : +49 (0)30 2089 6831 : +44 (0)20 3286 0094 : +353.(0)1.442.8808 www.prohairlabs.com info@prohairlabs.com

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The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

The Role of the Trichologist by Dr. David H. Kingsley, PhD President of the World Trichology Society

accelerated with a poor diet or increased stress. It is also possible to have two or more simultaneous primary causes of hair loss. Improvement is often quicker if all these issues are addressed. Trichologists are aware of this and search for the answers that other disciplines may not have time to find. The time that trichologists can devote to each patient often exceeds that which can be provided by a physician; initial consultations and history taking often take up to 1 hour. Regular follow-up and monitoring of responses to treatment is also a normal part of trichology. Dr. David Kingsley with patient Trichology is the science that includes all aspects of the hair and scalp in both health and disease. Trichologists usually take a holistic approach to helping people with hair or scalp problems. Trichologists can be medical doctors (MD’s), scientists (PhD’s), nurses, cosmetologists, teachers and indeed anyone with a specialist knowledge or interest in hair.

“Often the trichologist will identify conditions ranging from iron deficiency to thyroid problems.” Unfortunately, trichology is not a State Registered profession and sadly anyone can call themselves a trichologist. In consequence, a few commercial establishments and individuals give the profession a bad name. The World Trichology Society is one of the very few professional organizations trying to educate the public and the medical profession to distinguish between legitimate educators and the hucksters. A certified trichologist develops a high level of skill because he/she sees nothing but hair problems day in and day out. Some centers may work in close liaison with a medically qualified colleague. In other instances, the client/patient is referred to their own general practitioner where prescription-only medications or blood tests are indicated. Hair loss conditions are not always simple and the primary cause may be exacerbated by secondary factors. For instance, a condition of genetic hair loss may be

Trichologists have to be aware of new developments in the hair loss treatment field. The average client/patient is better informed today, often because of the Internet. The public want answers and want them delivered from a position of authority. The World Trichology Society helps its members and students keep up with any new treatments through its weekly newsletter. A further role of the trichologist is to serve as the eyes and ears of the physician. Often the trichologist will identify conditions ranging from iron deficiency to thyroid problems. This enables early diagnosis and treatment, often well before any other signs and symptoms would take the client/patient to his/her physician. Trichology is the niche specialty that helps link cosmetology and dermatology. Trichology is one of the fastest growing areas of hair care, and certified trichologists are the specialists who are often best able to help people with hair or scalp problems. For more information, visit www.WorldTrichologySociety.com

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

Trichology Loses Visionary Son keeps the dream alive Philip Kingsley, 1930-2016.

Internationally renowned trichologist, Philip Kingsley passed away on Saturday, September 3, 2016. Kingsley was a leading authority on hair and scalp health. Dubbed the ‘Hair Guru’ by the New York Times, the ‘Hair Wizard’ by Vogue and the ‘Hair Doctor’ by the UK’s Sunday Times, he was the man who coined the phrase, Bad hair day’. He treated countless celebrity clients including Sir Laurence Olivier, Cate Blanchett, Eva Herzigova, Gwyneth Paltrow, Sienna Miller, Jane Fonda, Victoria Beckham, and many members of the royal family. He wrote four books on hair care, and for ten years, penned a popular hair advice column in London’s Sunday Times Style magazine.

early twenties, Philip recognized the profound psychological significance that hair has for both men and women, and was determined to make a difference. He opened his first London clinic in Marylebone in 1957, then went on to open progressively larger clinics in London as demand for his services grew. By the late 1970s, he was treating many actors from the National Theatre, on the personal recommendation of Sir Laurence Olivier. Philip’s success culminated in the opening of his flagship Trichological Clinic on Green Street, Mayfair in 1968, and then on New York’s Fifth Avenue in 1977.

Throughout his career, Philip provided solutions to the most extreme hair and scalp problems, as well as help and reassurance to those who simply wanted the best from their hair. In recent years, he was focused on helping women who were suffering from reduced volume. To this end, he developed an at-home hair care regime designed to stimulate hair volume, shine and elasticity.

David and Philip Kingsley worked together for over 20 years experimenting and manufacturing many innovative products in their London laboratory. David later became President of his father’s New York trichology center before leaving for university to get his doctorate. Philip Kingsley would have loved to become a doctor himself, but was unable to find time to go to university. However, he made a point of tutoring David while he was studying trichology in 1980 and David told The Journal he is deeply grateful for this shared wisdom and is committed to combining it with his own education to become a world renowned trichologist in Kingsley Family Reunion NHJ his own right.

Philip worked tirelessly to research female hair loss at Mount Sinai Hospital Philip Kingsley was best known for crein New York. He developed products to ating the world’s first pre-shampoo hair suit the needs of people undergoing chemasque, Elasticizer, in 1976, which he formotherapy and radiotherapy. He also set mulated personally for one of his most faup regular donations to the breast cancer mous clients, Audrey Hepburn. The prodcharity, Look Good Feel Better, as well as uct became an international best-seller, the Royal Marsden Hospital for Cancer Philip Kingsley with one being sold every two minutes. It Research. Even at the age of 86, Philip was attracted a loyal following, that included still working tirelessly to revolutionize the Georgia May Jagger and Natalia Vodianova. hair care market, and to bring reassurance and satisfaction to clients all over the world. Philip Kingsley was the first to link hair health with nutrition and well-being. He believed that the traditional classi- Philip Kingsley is succeeded by his son, David H. Kingsley, fications of hair as, ‘Normal, Oily and Dry’ were inaccurate, PhD. who founded the World Trichology Society to furand introduced the concept of hair textures instead: Fine, ther expand the study of trichology in North America. The Medium, Coarse, African-Caribbean. This had a huge im- World Trichology Society is headquartered in New York pact on the hair-care industry, and is the standard by which City and offers seminars and workshops as well as a special every modern haircare brand now operates. distance learning program.

Philip Kingsley was born in 1930 to a working class family in London’s East End. Through his perseverance and research, he worked his way up over sixty years to become a leading expert on hair and scalp care. Philip’s passion for hair started when he left school at age 14 to help support his parents and four siblings. He apprenticed at his uncle’s hairdressing salon in Bethnal Green. After saving enough money, he embarked on a correspondence course at the Institute of Trichologists. Even in his teenage years and

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

Why We Don’t Filter Reviews By Jeffrey Segal, MD, JD

In 2002 Jeffrey Segal, MD, JD launched Medical Justice® in 2002 to protect doctors’ most valuable professional assets: their practices and reputations. The National Hair Journal believes the advice and experience he shares with medical practitioners is equally applicable to cosmetologists and technicians providing personal care services and we have been privileged to pass on his words of wisdom to Journal readers over the years. With social media weaving itself into our everyday lives, Dr. Segal decided to expand Medical Justice’s original mission of risk mitigation to include building positive doctor-patient relationships and a new associate, eMerit® was born. eMerit provides a blueprint along with the necessary tools to foster an environment where patients can provide constructive feedback, and doctors can respond. eMerit® fully embraces the social media revolution that is shaping the health care industry and wants to help both doctors and patients safely and efficiently navigate the constantly changing internet landscape. If you practice cosmetology, medicine or dentistry, you WILL get a negative review. If I hear a doctor tell me they have never had a negative review, I conclude one of the following. The doctor is just starting practice; he never looked;

“How one handles a negative review matters much more than the negative review itself.” or is a liar. It’s similar to practicing medicine and hoping you’ll never get a complication. Welcome to the real world. For talented practitioners, and those willing to improve, most of their reviews will be positive. How do we know? Our track record and analytics. Even so, having an occasional negative review amongst a sea of positive reviews makes the positives seem authentic – more credible. 100% positive reviews are perceived as marketing puffery. How one handles a negative review matters so much more than the negative review itself. Below is a case study of turning a negative into a positive. Dr. B. practices as a sports medicine orthopedic surgeon. A teenage soccer player saw him for a second opinion. She came with her mom. The patient had a knee injury and had

already been seen by another surgeon. She was scheduled for a procedure. The patient wanted to get back to her active lifestyle ASAP. She was mainly getting a second opinion because her insurance carrier mandated it. The appointment with Dr. B. was fast. The patient (and her mom) were barely able to get their story out. Dr. B. said he treated his patients conservatively and was prescribing a brace. Her carrier might not pay for the brace; and, if not, the family would be billed $300. The girl had surgery and did well. The mother vented on Yelp. She argued that Dr. B failed to listen. Her daughter was active and did not want to slog through a trial of conservative treatment. She wanted to return to the soccer field quickly. For her, surgery made sense. And, the surgery helped her accomplish just that. Finally, she said she was stuck with a $300 bill for a brace her daughter never needed or used. Her carrier denied the claim. Dr. B. relies on eMerit to monitor the Internet for mentions of his name. They forwarded the Yelp review. eMerit helped Dr. B. write to the mom. “We want all of our patients to have a positive experience with our office and it’s clear we let you down. I want to make it right. First, let me explain. I did agree that surgery would make it possible to regain full activity. And, if surgery was around the corner, the brace we provided would not be needed. I believed, in good faith, that your daughter was not interested in surgery – at least in the near term, and there was a conservative option, a brace, which would allow her to walk and run, without her knee giving way. That was why I offered the brace – as an alternative option to surgery. Surgery, of course, was always a reasonable option, and likely a better long-term solution for her situation. But, every patient is different, and every patient has a different opinion regarding surgery versus more conservative treatments for elective conditions. And we do our best to honor their requests. I apparently misinterpreted what you and your daughter wanted. Please accept my sincere apology. Also, I have enclosed a check for the full amount you paid for the brace. I’m hoping this gesture will help regain your trust in our practice.

In light of this, I hope you will either remove or update your post to reflect this. Regardless, please treat this as a request and not a demand. I’ll respect whatever you decide. Finally, if you’d like to discuss on the phone, I’ll arrange my schedule to do so at your convenience. Thanks.” The mom did not remove the post. But, she did upgrade her rating from 1 star to 5 stars. She also wrote: “Dr. B. listened. He really rocks.” Great service recovery. OK, so any other reasons we don’t filter reviews? Yes. Ethics, regulatory oversight, and the law. Virtually every Board of Medicine and Dentistry constrains advertising. Ads cannot be deceptive. If one filters 100% of negative reviews, allowing only the 5 star reviews to be posted, the public may be misinformed. Imagine that the complication rate for one doctor is 25%; and all 100 posted reviews are positive. This signal misleads and deceives the public. Boards are empowered to take action against licensees who ignore this mandate. This can mean a fine, suspension or revocation of one’s license. Plus negative publicity. The Federal Trade Commission also has rules against deceptive advertising. The FTC is empowered to take action. What if a reporter calls the office saying they were doing a story on a patient with a complication? They see only glowing reviews. Then they learn you use a system that filters negative reviews. That reporter will keep digging “for the kill.” In the journalism world, “if it bleeds, it leads.” Your headaches will be far fewer is you could respond – I use eMerit – no filtering. We capture all reviews for quality improvement. What you see online is a representative picture of my practice. The reporter will find another story. Finally, doctors are professionals. Be proud of your accomplishments. If you are doing a great job, and all reviews are posted, you have nothing to worry about. Footnote: This article first appeared on the eMerit Blog dated August 19th, 2016 and is reproduced with permisNHJ sion of Dr Jeffrey Segal.

Keeping the Record Straight It’s one of those old wife’s tiles that keeps getting repeated, so let’s set the record straight one more time. No, shaving your head will not make the hair grow back thicker. Growth is generated in the follicle which is an organ below the skin. Shaving has no effect whatsoever on the hair follicle, but it may make the new growth feel coarse and bristly, giving the NHJ illusion of improved texture.

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

THE NATIONAL HAIR JOURNAL The National Hair Journal was founded in 1977 as a business resource for salon and clinic owners. Its mission is to provide hair-management professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will help them provide superior service to their clients and patients. It is a full-color tabloid, published quarterly and distributed worldwide. EDITOR IN CHIEF Christopher Webb cwebb@nationalhairjournal.com

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Dylan Case dcase@nationalhairjournal.com

LEGAL NOTICE The views expressed in The National Hair Journal are those of the individual author or contributor and not those of The National Hair Journal, its editors or staff. The Journal’s contents reflect the opinions of the authors and are not analyzed, peer-reviewed or otherwise investigated before publication. All authors and contributors are asked to disclose any interests they have of a commercial nature. The National Hair Journal makes no attempt to validate the sufficiency of such disclosures and makes no warranty, guarantee or other representation, expressed or implied with respect to the accuracy or sufficiency of any information provided. The publication of an advertisement does not constitute on the part of the National Hair Journal a guarantee or endorsement of the quality or value of the representations or claims made by the advertiser. The National Hair Journal accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All articles and letters become the property of the National Hair Journal and may be edited for clarity, presentations and space. By allowing your articles, interviews and personal commentary to be used in The National Hair Journal, you are giving the publication permission to use these materials in its pages, websites and other information materials. Advertisers are required to sign a formal advertising agreement indicating that they are not violating any trademarks or other intellectual properties. Full details are outlined in The National Hair Journal Media Kit. COYPRIGHT The material published in The National Hair Journal is copyrighted and may not be utilized in any form without the written consent of the editor. THE NATIONAl HAIR JOURNAL 39252 Winchester Road #107-383 Murrieta, CA 92563 Tel: 626-709-6397 Info@NationalHairJournal.com

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

Hair and Your Career Your hair speaks volumes about you (no pun intended). Like it or not, judgments based on appearance play a powerful role in how we treat others and how we get treated. In this article we explore how you express yourself through various hairstyles, hair colors, and hair lengths can make or break your career.

Blondes Are the New Brainiacs Blondes are known for having more fun. However, they are also becoming a force to be reckoned with in the workplace. A 2002 survey by Clairol polled more than one thousand women and 76% of them believed that that the first female president of the United States would be a brunette. Fast forward a bit to 2008 and a similar survey by Clairol showed a shift in perspective with split results between brunettes and blondes. “Today, blond women are the new brunettes, and they have Hillary Clinton to thank for that,” says Franco Della Grazia, senior stylist at Cutler Salon in NYC. “She’s a powerful woman, telling it like it is, sitting down with heads of state from all over the world. I don’t know how much fun she’s having, but she’s being taken seriously.” Opt for a super-blond or super-dark hue, especially if you’re in a creative or artistic field, suggests Midge Wilson, Ph.D., professor of psychology at DePaul University. A natural color sends a neutral message. “While a natural-looking color fits in better at more conservative offices, bold color can be an asset in the creative workplace,” says Erin Bogart, colorist at Sally Hershberger Downtown New York.

Sleek & Straight vs. Cute & Curly Our curly-haired counterparts are perceived as care-free and approachable, while women with straight hair are viewed as…well, straight-laced. “Straight hair reflects more shine than curly hair, feels more groomed, and can be slimming,” says Kérestase celebrity colorist and stylist Ashley Javier, adding that in the workplace, women with straight hair are often perceived as being more serious than those with curls. Grazia adds an interesting fact that while those with sleek hair might exude staunch efficiency, “women with curly hair are seen as risk-takers and people who are prepared to go out on a limb for the company.” But don’t get too ambitious with your curls. “If you choose to wear your hair curly for an interview, make sure it’s under control and doesn’t upstage you and your talents,” says Erin Anderson,

co-owner of Woodley and Bunny apothecary and salon in Brooklyn.

Does Length Matter? Length doesn’t really matter as long as your hairstyle looks low-maintenance. “Short and manageable or, if it’s long, pulled back into a chignon or low ponytail - so that you’re not shaking it out of your eyes, tucking it behind your ear, and wrapping your finger around it,” says Wilson. “These kinds of things can be very distracting and can send the message that you aren’t task-focused.” Franco Della Grazia, senior stylist at Cutler Salon in NYC, agrees - “A woman who turns up for a corporate job interview with long, super styled hair will be perceived as high-maintenance. And, unfortunately, a woman who labors over her hairstyle and appearance will be seen as someone who might spend too much time on herself - and not enough on her work.”

The Big Bang Theory Work in a cutting-edge field? If so, blunt and bold bangs will fit right in and they’re perfect for creative workplaces. “You will definitely give off a high-fashion, strong, and secure message with blunt bangs,” says stylist James Vides of Sally Hershberger Downtown New York. “It gives you a very definitive look.” Important rule of thumb: Stay true to yourself and your personal style, being cognizant of your employer’s culture will help you to determine the most appropriate coifs. When you feel like you “fit in” confidence and comfortability will naturally follow in all that you do, both in and out of the office. Della Grazia encourages women with this, “Be respectful of your work environment but still be able to show your true personality traits through your hairstyle.”

Did You Know The hair on a polar bear isn’t white, it’s transparent.

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

5 ALL-NATURAL WAYS TO NOURISH YOUR HAIR

Beauty Expert Shares Insights into One-Ingredient Masks That Can Help Breathe Life Back to Lusterless Hair Women today are opting for more natural ingredients when it comes to their beauty routines. DIY and at-home creations are rapidly gaining a strong following. Beauty expert, Alexandra Whitcombe, the creator behind Vendome Paris Beaute, offers a simple, one-ingredient list of the top five all-natural products that women can use to breathe life back into their hair: 1. Olive, Coconut, or Almond Oil – Simply massage a few tbsps. (depending on hair length) of your choice of oil into your hair, comb through, and let sit for 30-60 minutes before washing out it out with shampoo thoroughly. Shampoo and rinse twice, if needed. 2. Avocado – Before you throw away backend avocado, consider making a paste to apply to your hair. Toss in an egg to create an even creamier texture. Apply to hair, comb through, and let sit for 30 minutes before rinsing with shampoo and water. 3. Whole Egg – Whip an egg or two with a folk and apply the mixture to your hair. Comb through and rinse in 15-20 minutes with water and shampoo. 4. Yogurt – Whip a few tbsps. (depending on hair length) of Greek yogurt with a fork into a smooth paste, and apply to your hair. Comb through and let sit 20-30 minutes before washing out with shampoo and water. 5. Banana – Mash one banana with a fork and apply the mixture onto the hair. Let sit for 15-20 minutes before rinsing with water and shampoo. Following each treatment, Alexandra recommends allowing your hair to air-dry for best results. A strand of hair is not an organic, living thing. What works for growing hair should work for a wig or hair system. ABOUT VENDOME PARIS BEAUTE - Vendome Paris Beaute is a prestige cosmetics line that targets today’s sophisticated, socially conscious modern woman. The brand uses state-of-the-art technology coupled with ingredients from apothecary secrets and homeopathic recipes that have been handed down for generations in France, Switzerland, and Italy to create a cosmetics line that is infused with botanicals. NHJ

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The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

Back to the Future Dino Reflects and Predicts

Dino’s Hair Replacement of Fort Lauderdale was established in 1975 and serves customers throughout South Florida and beyond. Founder, Dennis “Dino” Howell has been performing non-surgical hair replacement for over 40 years and is loved, admired and respected by everyone who has worked with him. Dino has seen different styles come and go, but makes a point of always being up to date on all the latest trends and technologies. His daughter, Gia Leffler is a master technician and instructor in the hair replacement industry. She has traveled to many places including Italy, Malaysia, and Hong Kong, teaching hair replacement techniques to other studios. Dino is now proudly passing the baton to Gia and her husband his son Joseph and is excited by their vision for the company’s future. There is no doubt that Dino’s Hair replacement will continue to be an industry leader for one more generation! National Hair Journal: Dino, you’ve become an industry icon and have many awards and certificates on the wall, but before we talk about your business, let’s take a minute to introduce readers to you and your family. Dino Powell: I’m originally from Kankakee, Illinois, a small city of about 10,020 households. I am married to my charming wife Tina, and we have a son, Joseph and a talented daughter, Gia. My hairdressing career started the day I got out of barber school in 1962. I became a barber at 19, got burned out at 29 and decided to go to the Pivot Pointe School in Chicago to learn about advanced hair styling.

NHJ: Then, let’s guess, after a cold Chicago winter, warm Floridian ocean breezes started calling… DP: That’s right. I was offered a job with Jerome Roberts and we moved down to Fort Lauderdale on New Year’s Eve, 1974/75. I’ve always had a strong entrepreneurial instinct, so it wasn’t long before I decided to open my own business. This was an exciting time in hair replacement and I was lucky to be starting at the same time that Hair Club was ramping up and Andy Wright was launching On Rite. Another great opportunity presented itself when we were offered the “New Man” distributorship in Broward County and we grabbed it. The timing could not have been better. Terry Bradshaw had just been hired as the national spokesperson after he’d won a Super Bowl or two and people started coming in off the streets want to look like Terry Bradshaw. NHJ: The next blessing was our children deciding to go to barber and cosmetology school and wanting to join us in the business. NHJ: Most times, the kids don’t want to do what their dad tells them. They want to be their own people. But your children wanted to follow in your footsteps. What was their motivation? DP: You know, what I never thought about that, but probably it was watching my wife and me getting excited about our new venture. NHJ: What was the turn on? Was it that you were making money? Was it that you were changing lives? Or was it that you were pioneering an industry that had had a rough start, and was now taking off? DP: I think it was the latter. I think it was being on the ground floor of an industry that was, as you say, “taking off.” We came in when all the stars were aligned - On Rite was just opening up and offered us the products we needed and

“Treating people the way you would want to be treated is number one.” we became a part of the New Man program with Bradshaw. It was all in the timing. I think the kids sensed the excitement and the opportunity. My uncle used to tell me, “Being a barber is a great field, but you’re limited to what you can make, because the hands can only produce so much per hour - God forbid it rains or somebody doesn’t show up.” And here we were delivering a high value product that changed lives and wasn’t dependent on the weather! NHJ: So you leave the windy city and move to the sunshine; your business is taking off; the kids catch the fever... take it from there... DP: The kids caught the fever, but it wasn’t because we pushed them. We never said, “We want you to go to school and become a part of the industry.” They were excited enough to go out and do it on their own. Actually, my son was a late comer. He went to college, tried real estate, then one day he came to the shop one day and announced, “I really want to be in the hair business.” Now Gia had been working with us since she was 13 or 14 years old sweeping

floors, shampooing, et cetera so I told my son, “I’m not real crazy about this, because I don’t want you to think this is an easy way out. But if you’re sincere, I want you to pay your dues. I want you to work, I want you to sweep the floors. I want you to clean the bathrooms. I want you to do all the things that your sister did. And if you still like the business after that, I’ll send you to school.” Looking back now, everything worked out for the best. He paid his dues

“I give my cell phone to my clients because if they’re in a bind, I want to be there to help them.” and the business has new vision and energy. NHJ: You could have been like many ambitious parents and said, “I want you to be a lawyer or a doctor or an airline pilot,” but you were happy to bring them into your business. What did you get from their new vision? DP: Number one, I got excitement! It was a two-way situation, they were happy to be here and I was happy to have my kids with me. Not many people in this industry have the opportunity to see their kids follow in their footsteps. NHJ: In a minute we’re going to talk about those footsteps and where they may be leading. But before we go there, I’d like to drag you out of your comfort zone. You’re a modest

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

man, but I want you to be immodest and talk for a minute about your achievements. You moved to what has to be the most competitive market in the United States and not only did you build a successful business, but you won awards and became an industry icon. What was the secret? DP: I think the secret is education. We’ve probably taken every class that On Rite and New Man, now IHI, have offered. The real key is education; taking education and using it. NHJ: Technical and creative proficiency is obviously pivotal, but what are the real hands-on skills that somebody needs to stand out from the crowd? DP: I think personality is probably 95 percent of the equation. Treating people the way you would want to be treated is number one. Going out of your way for somebody, and giving them everything they deserve as far as the product is concerned. NHJ: What are the things you do on a personal level to build those relationships? DP: A lot of owners don’t like to give out their cell phone, but I tell my clients, “When you’re working, I’m working.” I give my cell phone to my clients because if they’re in a bind, I want to be there to help them. I’m from a small farm town about 60 miles south of Chicago, and where the farmer’s motto is, “The cream will always come to the top; treat everyone with respect as you would want to be treated.” We try to live up to that motto.

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The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

NHJ: Some owners manage the business from their office, but we assume you were never a back room manager. You were always on the floor, shaking hands, building relationships. DP: Exactly. It’s my thing. I like to greet them at the front door with a big smile. There’s nothing better than walking you into some place, especially when you’re going to be spending money, and somebody greets you at the front door with a smile. Nothing worse than going up to a desk and having a receptionist that doesn’t have a smile.

The real challenge is finding and staying with a good product. If we have to spend more money to get it, so be it. NHJ: Do you do anything technically different from your competition? DP: I’ve always encouraged my employees to go to all the technical seminars that manufacturers have offered. I tell them, “If you go, I will pay for it.” I think our “technical” success is having highly trained specialists and good employee relationships. NHJ: One of the paradoxes of our industry is that there are studios that invest heavily going to workshops, but the only person who knows about those superior skills is you and your credit card company after you pay for the hotel and airfare. Wouldn’t it be nice if there was a way to display those credentials so the public could find the best service providers? DP: Yes, we need that. NHJ: What is the biggest challenge facing our industry today? DP: The industry has gotten so good in the past 10 or 20 years that I think the product is probably as good as it’s going to get. That’s scary because where’s it going to go from here? Then there are supply issues. Is there enough quality hair out there? Are we going to have spend more money to get better hair down the road? I think technology is going to have to come to the rescue. Not to name drop, but I think products like Cyberhair will have an increasing influence on the industry. It handles well, you don’t have oxidation anymore, and they can produce as much as they want. NHJ: What about your clientele, how has that changed? DP: Our clientele is getting younger. For 40 years ran advertising every week in the Sun Sentinel, which is a large local newspaper. Our bill was extremely high but it always paid off and we were happy. We were attracting people from 45 to 75yrs. However, when my daughter and son-inlaw took over the business, they started advertising on the Internet. Using programs that On Rite and IHI produce, they were able to bring in a younger clientele aged 25 to 45yrs. And when these young people came in, they were actually presold before they got here. When we were advertising in the newspaper, we were attracting people 45 to 75 yrs. and we still had to hard sell. So from a marketing point of view, the business is getting easier. The real challenge is finding

and staying with a good product. If we have to spend more money to get it, so be it. NHJ: Why are many young men choosing hair replacement over surgery or other choices? DP: I think they’re combining solutions. The hair transplantation market is a very good market at this point. Like us, they’ve come a long way in the past 30 or 40 years. The quality now, compared with back, then is like night and day. As far as the cosmetic part of non-surgical hair replacement goes, we’re at a point where the finished product is so natural looking that it can be combined with a hair transplantation procedure. A lot of the young kids, and older gentlemen too, are having their front hairline transplanted and then coming to us to add density and length behind it. This give them the best of both worlds; naturalness and volume. There’s nothing more natural than your own hairline.

Gia Leffler

“Tina and I are fortunate to be able to pass on the business to our daughter, Gia and her husband Leonard, knowing that they will take it to new heights.” NHJ: Have you noticed nobody ever actually leaves this industry. They may claim to “retire” but they never really go away. Where does Dino go from here? DP: That’s a good question. I’ve been behind the chair for 53 years and I’ve enjoyed every second of it, but I have to tell you I’m enjoying my retirement as well. I’m having a great time watching my kids take our business to another level. That is so rewarding, you have no idea. There are a lot of people in the industry in my situation who have children, and for some reason the kids don’t want to come into the business. So as a good friend of mine said, “Dino, you’re living my dream.” And quite frankly, I think he’s right. NHJ: Let’s go back to the kids. What else do you think they’re going to shake up? DP: I think they’re going to achieve credibility in the profession because they are both compassionate people.

“I’ve enjoyed all 53 years behind the chair, and I don’t know that I would do anything differently. I’m just happy with the way it all turned out.” They’re good technically speaking, and they’re also very good speaking with other people. I get phone calls after clients leave the shop telling me, “Dino, your son is such a gem. Technically speaking, he’s probably as good as anyone in the industry, but he just makes me feel so good when I leave.” I want to give you another example of our close relationships. I’ve got a client who’s been with me for 40 years. He’s a dentist. We recently moved down to the beach about 10 miles from our original location and the dentist came down there, but it was now a long and inconvenient journey. So the next time he needed a service, he decided to go to a competitor nearby. Well, he called me the other day and said, “Dino, I’ve got to be honest with you. You guys are so far away now that I went to a competitor. He continued, “But I sat outside in the parking lot for half an hour and felt so bad I had to leave. I’m coming back to your place whether it’s far or not.” I’ve got to tell you, that brought a tear to my eye. NHJ: The BBC is running a series on their Worldwide Radio Broadcast headed, “Behind the Chair.” It’s all about the special friendship and trust that builds between a barber/ cosmetologist and his/her client. The work we do creates very close bonds. DP: Yes, exactly. That’s why I want to read this note, “We were lucky enough to be a part of the Transitions Marketing Group, which only accepts the best hair replacement

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

owners and shares ideas on customer service, product knowledge, and invites speakers to keep us abreast what is happening in the industry. Speakers with the knowledge and charisma of a Chris Webb.” NHJ: That’s very sweet. Who said that? DP: I said that. NHJ: That’s very kind of you, thank you. DP: I mean that from the bottom of my heart. It’s always a pleasure listening to you. NHJ: There’s a lot of work that goes on under the surface, Dino as I think you know. We are not only as an information source, but also as an industry firefighter. When things go wrong we try to jump in and make them right again. So there’s a lot below the surface that people don’t know about. So we appreciate those kind words. DP: They come from the heart, thank you. NHJ: What advice would you give to somebody coming into the industry today? DP: I would say, again, be knowledgeable! Get as much education as you can before you open your business. Treat people the way you’d want to be treated. I’ve always told my children, “Before you make a decision, before you offer something to somebody or say something to somebody, always reverse the situation. If you would accept that, then go ahead and make the offer or do what you want.” That’s all. NHJ: If were going around the clock again is there anything you would have done differently? DP: I’ve enjoyed all 53 years behind the chair, and I don’t know that I would do anything differently. I’m just happy with the way it all turned out. NHJ: If the hair replacement fairy godmother granted you one wish what would it be? DP: That the whole world would go bald. [Laughter] NHJ: Is there anything you would like to add? DP: Let me look at my notes... yes, let me just read a couple comments - Tina and I are fortunate to be able to pass on the business to our daughter, Gia and her husband Leonard, knowing that they will take it to new heights. It is a great feeling. Gia has her brother maintaining the technical end too and he has the hands of a Picasso! NHJ: To wrap up, let’s look five years ahead. The kids have been running things; you’ve been out fishing and having a wonderful retirement; and we’re now 60 months into the future. What has changed? Is there a bigger female clientele? Is there a younger clientele? Is there a more ethnically diverse clientele? What do you anticipate? DP: I anticipate that the industry is going to have a younger clientele. I once I told my mother-in-law I was going into the hair replacement business and moving to Florida. She replied, “That’s a great place to go. You’ve got all those old men down there wearing hairpieces.” Well, I don’t think that’s the business anymore. The industry is getting younger and the product is getting better and better. I’m proud to have been be part of it. NHJ: Dino, thank you for taking time out of your busy day and away from your golf, fishing or whatever you do there out in the Florida sunshine. It was a real pleasure chatting with you. NHJ

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

Bio-Bridges Leading by Example

The Body Shop has shared details of its Bio-Bridges plan which will see 75 million square meters of forest regenerated and protected from exploitation, poaching and unsustainable harvesting. The project is part of The Body Shop’s wider environmental commitments under its new “Enrich not Exploit” campaign, which it launched earlier this year. The brand is hoping to become “the most sustainable” through a range of initiatives. The Bio-Bridges project will see corridors between healthy rainforest reconnected to deforested or degraded lands to help isolated and endangered species regenerate and thrive again. The first bridges will be built in Vietnam and India this year. Christopher Davis, Director of Corporate Responsibility and Campaigns at The Body Shop, explained: “We want to focus on actively enriching the world’s biodiversity. These areas of forest in Vietnam are biological treasure troves that are being destroyed through poaching and illegal logging. Bio-Bridges are an innovative way to create protected corridors of biodiversity that allow the wider forest to flourish and its inhabitants to breed and thrive. In Vietnam, within five to ten years we hope to be able to see endangered species multiply.” If your or your colleagues do special charity work to help people in need, give back to society or to protect the environment, NHJ please share them with The Journal so we can pass them on to our readers to inspire and motivate them also.

Hair Treatment Utilizes 3D-Printing Technology Dr. Alan J. Bauman, discusses how new hair and scalp cranial prosthetic hair replacements made with 3D-printing are offering new hope to alopecia sufferers. September is National Alopecia Areata Awareness Month and it’s an important opportunity for men and women suffering from alopecia areata and other less common types of hair loss, like cicatricial alopecia, to get educated about effective new hair restoration options that can help. According to the National Alopecia Areata Foundation, over 6.8 million people in the U.S. have, had or will develop alopecia areata at some point in their lives. An autoimmune disease, alopecia areata causes the body’s immune system to attack the hair follicles, resulting in hair loss on the scalp and elsewhere on the body. Depending on the type and severity of the alopecia, sufferers may experience small bald patches on the scalp that spontaneously regrow, or it may progress to full cranial hair loss called alopecia totalis or total body hair loss, otherwise known as alopecia universalis. “While medical treatments for hair loss have advanced dra-

matically over the last few decades, there is no true cure for alopecia areata,” explained Dr. Alan J. Bauman, founder of Bauman Medical Group in Boca Raton. “For those who suffer from less common hair loss conditions like alopecia areata and cicatricial (scarring) alopecia, traditional medical treatments are not effective, leaving patients with very few options and little hope for a normal life.” To combat this problem, the hair loss community has developed advanced “cranial prosthetics” that can conceal patchy or full scalp baldness in cases where it can’t otherwise be treated. One product in the cranial prosthetic category is the CR-Lab CNC Hair Replacement System, which uses 3D-printing to perfectly design and conform the prosthetic to the patient’s exact cranial measurements, skin type and other specifications. According to Dr. Bauman, cranial prosthetics may be covered by some health insurance companies. CNC (CR Labs, Italy) is a customized medical-grade hair replacement system that is approved by the Italian Ministry of Health. The prosthesis is crafted from 100 percent unprocessed human hair implanted into an ultra-lightweight, breathable, antibacterial, dermato-compatable polymeric base made using 3D-printing technology. Made with FDAcleared components, CNC is a unique hair replacement option for patients who suffer from autoimmune alopecia or extensive scarring alopecia, as well as patients who may not be good candidates for hair transplants. NHJ

Boogies On the Horizon? We’ve all heard about “disruptive technologies” but did you ever expect to see an example in the personal care market? And could disruption in the shaving market also happen to hair replacement? Formed in 2012, upstart, “Dollars Shave Club” brought in an estimated $65 million in 2015 and now reports a user base of over 1.2 million members. The California company, recently acquired by Unilever, says its success is due to cheaper pricing and the fact that it offers a simple solution to what many men perceive as a complex shaving market. Shave Club believes the men’s hair care market is also complicated and is introducing a line of five men’s hair care products backed by a questionnaire that asks men about their hair type and texture, then guides them towards the best solution. The brand is called “Boogies” and all products are priced at only $10. As Boogies learns about scope and degree of concern about thinning hair, could a disruptive hair loss product be on the agenda?

Wen Saga Continues FDA has not yet determined a possible cause for the adverse reactions The FDA continues to investigate reports of hair loss, hair breakage, balding, itching, and rash associated with the use of WEN by Chaz Dean Cleansing Conditioner products. By July 7, 2016, the FDA had received 127 adverse event reports directly from consumers, the largest number of reports ever associated with any cosmetic hair cleansing product, including cleansing conditioners. The FDA has not yet determined a possible cause for the adverse events that have been reported, and has called on the company to “provide any data that might help us to better understand the reports of hair loss associated with the use of WEN by Chaz Dean Cleansing Conditioner products.” The FDA also has reached out to physicians and other health care providers asking them to notify their patients of hair loss and other complaints associated with the use of these products and to report adverse events to the agency. Wen commented, We love our brand and our customers. Through this experience, we have learned that there is an immediate need for more education about hair health and common hair concerns in the industry, unrelated to WEN.”

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

CAPILLUS EARNS QUALITY CERTIFICATION

Miami, FL. 09/2016 - Capillus, LLC, a medical device

manufacturer, has received ISO 13485:2003 certification for its quality management system through the Medical Device Single Audit Program (MDSAP) pilot. MDSAP is an international initiative led by a group of Regulatory Authorities, including the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and Health Canada, aimed at developing, managing and overseeing a single audit program that makes worldwide medical device regulation easier and more effective. The certification process tests companies’ manufacturing facilities and quality management systems (QMS). The National Hair Journal will be running an interview with Capillus founder and CEO, Carlos Pina, in its Fall 2016 edition.

Deodorant Trounces Shampoo It might not be the most glamorous cosmetic product, but reWelcome to Tomorrow! search from Unilever brand Dove has revealed that deodorant is the most valued product for female consumers in the US. Out of all the products used in their morning routines, deodorant was ranked above toothpaste, foundation, mascara and eyeliner as the product that makes women feel the most confident. Applying deodorant was said to be five times more important than washing hair, eight times more important than putting on mascara and 13 times more important than wearing lip gloss or lipstick. But it is not just protection from odor and wetness that consumers are looking for from their deodorants. Many women are keen on the added benefits of some antiperspirant brands. Which reminds us, whatever happened to SilverRx, an anti-microbial filament from Hiking that stayed fresh and clean? x™

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SilverRx™ Base Net Redefines Comfort and Safety Hair replacement has come a long way. Your clients appreciate the colors and texture, and styling has never been better. But how about comfort and hygiene? What happens under that hair system when they exercise, get anxious… or on those warm, muggy days? They

perspire. And that’s a problem. Now your average client has 3 million eccrine sweat glands, many of them on the top their head, and the salts and electrolytes they excrete can get trapped under

their hair addition. This frequently leads to discomfort and can create embarrassing hygiene and odor problems.

Well, now that’s changed. SilverRx™ is a next-generation bacteriostatic base

material that prevents bacteria from forming in the first place. SilverRx™ filaments are specially treated with 99.9% pure silver using an advanced technique proven by NASA Astronauts, US

Special Forces and Olympic athletes. The SilverRx™ fibers actually conduct heat away from your scalp, leaving you feeling fresh and clean.

Cutting-Edge Benefits. SilverRx™ filaments are remarkably soft and comfortable

without sacrificing strength or durability. And there’s another benefit from that silver coating. SilverRx™ bases actually protect against radiation too. If you are constantly holding a mobile phone against your head, or work in a Wi-Fi intense environment, this is one extra layer of

protection you might be grateful for! So for the ultimate in comfort and safety, look for the SilverRx label.

· Anti-Microbial · Odor Management · Anti-Radiation · Temperature Management

Say good-bye to old-fashioned hair systems —Tell your stylist you want “SilverRx™ Inside” next time you order hair!

For more information please contact: New Image - www.newimagelabs.com On Rite - www.onrite.com British Hair Development - www.hair-development.com Or Email: info@newsilverrx.com Or visit: www.newsilverrx.com

Campaign for ‘clean’ products gathers momentum The FDA has been concerned for some time about some of the ingredients in imported personal care products and the US Food and Drug Administration is now openly circulating a consumer update advising against the use of beauty products formulated with mercury. Even big box retailer Walmart is getting in on the act and has created a “chemical watch list” to help shoppers choose wisely and has asked its suppliers to reformulate to remove eight ingredients of concern. In the hair management market, Professional Hair Labs was formed specifically to develop safer products after the CEO’s cosmetologist wife became seriously ill after repeated exposure to certain commonly used chemicals.

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

Starting on a Dime Salonz Suites Make the Going Easy Success with Suite Advantages: Suites offer salon and spa professionals an instant business opportunity with a minimal investment and no long-term commitments, so you can get started right away. Your name and business information will be posted on the lobby directory and next to your suite door. Your business cards, brochures and marketing materials will be professionally presented in the spacious and elegant lobby for regular and walk-in clients. Marc Finer shares, “At Salonz Beauty & Spa Suites you’re independent; not alone. Just bring your clients and tools…we’ll help you do the rest! “

Salon and spa professionals can instantly become their own boss. New research shows that one-third of all salon and spa professionals have already taken advantage of independent new career opportunities as booth, chair and suite renters. While traditional salons may exist forever, this newest research shows that this successful new trend will soon encompass over 50% of how all salon and spa professionals will operate by 2020. Whether you are a hairstylist, barber

Salonz was launched in Florida and has major expansion plans. The company chooses their locations with you and your clients in mind, and are excited to offer health & beauty pros the most elegant, upscale, spacious suites for the best rental fees NHJ

“Newest research shows that this successful new trend will soon encompass over 50% of how all salon and spa professionals will operate by 2020.” or aesthetician, salon and spa suites are now changing the way professionals live and work by adding more flexibility when it comes to personally, professionally and privately pampering your clients. A turn-key operation, partnering with Salonz is an easy and economic choice to start a business without the cost and hardships of traditional salon ownership.

Suite Privacy! This is a priceless opportunity for beauty

care professionals to rent their own private mini-salon with no investment and no hassle. You will gain creative and financial freedom while servicing your clients in elegance and comfort. They will love the option of selecting between a private or social setting – within your suite! Affordable weekly rental fee includes fully equipped single or double suites, water, gas, electricity, phone/DSL/TV jacks, wireless access, coin-operated laundry facilities, a kitchen lounge with vending machines and appliances, elegant seating areas and so much more! You will have the freedom to manage your appointments and time, 7 days a week/365 days a year from 6:30 AM – 12:00 AM. Set your own prices, control 100% of your earnings, sell the products you want and keep the profits.

Watch What You Say to your Clients For those of you who watch what you eat, here’s the final word on nutrition and health. It’s a relief to know the truth after all those conflicting nutritional studies. 1. The Japanese eat very little fat - and suffer fewer heart attacks than us. 2. The Mexicans eat a lot of fat - and suffer fewer heart attacks than us. 3. The Chinese drink very little red wine - and suffer fewer heart attacks than us. 4. The Italians drink a lot of red wine - and suffer fewer heart attacks than us. 5. The Germans drink a lot of beer and eat lots of sausages and fats - and suffer fewer heart attacks than us. CONCLUSION: 1. Eat and drink what you like. 2. Speaking English is apparently what kills you.

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

Flash Reports T

he following new products and services have come to the attention of The Journal. We report on them without seeing or trying them. This is where we “flash” products that we can explore together. They may be related to hair management and replacement/restoration, or they may be line extension opportunities or collateral profit centers. Sometimes they may be just plain “wacky” – but fun to know about anyway. The fact that a product is featured in our Flash Reports in no way implies our approval or endorsement.

Ouch No More!

Summer is not over and the sun is not done with you yet. Nature may always have the upper hand, but technology is coming to the rescue. To help you protect your head and body from sun damage, Voxelight, based in Raleigh, NC, has developed Sunscreenr™, a waterproof, ultra-portable viewer that shows sunscreen coverage and protection. After applying sunscreen, a person looking through the device will see dark areas that are covered – along with light areas that aren’t covered and are still vulnerable to sunburns, sun spots and other forms of sun damage. This could be especially valuable to men and women with thinning or gray hair or people who remove their hair addition when exercising or on holiday. Sunscreenr also allows users to see when it’s time to reapply because sweat, sun, or toweling-off has worn away protection. Voxelight is raising capital online via Kickstarter to bring this product to market.

Caviar Facial

Few things are more indulgent than getting a facial, and if you’re lucky enough to be near QT Sydney, luxury awaits you! The spaQ located at QT Sydney, one of Australia’s newest fashion-forward boutique hotels, is featuring one of the newest trends in skincare. Guests at the spaQ can treat themselves to The Signature Caviar Facial, a treatment by Kerstin Florian. The caviar in the facial is full of protein and helps to rejuvenate cells, making it a must-have to keep skin looking youthful! The treatment costs between $220 and $295!

WinkMagic Eyelash Extender

WinkMagic offers stylists a new way to create beautiful eyelash extensions for their clients in a fraction of the time required by manual treatments. This revolutionary device extends, combs and curls two hundred mink hair in ten minutes. WinkMagic is designed for visionaries who wish to extend their hair-management services and create new profit opportunities. Applying WinkMagic lashes is a two-step process. First, the WinkMagic-Extender bonds natural mink hair stored in disposable cartridges to the client’s lashes. Next, the WinkMagic-Comber divides and curls the extensions for a natural look. The adhesives used are certified safe and a plastic eye guard ensures there is no possibility of skin or eye irritation. Extensions last as long as the remaining life of the eyelashes, but can be easily and quickly removed through application of a safe 100% natural fruit oil. WinkMagic was developed by Myun Lee, a serial entrepreneur and national figure from South Korea. Dr. Lee became, at age 25, the youngest chair of an engineering department at Seoul National University. He has produced and introduced to the marketplace over 50 different products. WinkMagic is currently being promoted on IndieGoGo. Visit https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/eyelash-extender-winkmagic-design-beauty/x/14892619#/ for more information.

Digital Straightening Brush This José Eber Digital Straightening Brush combines the intuitive act of brushing with heat technology to ensure the results of a flat iron with the ease of using a brush. Digital heat control allows you to use the precise setting for your hair type. The ceramic bristles with protective silicone tips leave a sleek, shiny finish. The result is a quicker, safer and more effective straightener.

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

Beyond Customer Service By Michael Suba

bout ten years ago I organized the clan to go on a March Break Vacation. The wife, our son and two daughters, aged 12, 9, and 2 respectively, and I we’re going to fly off to St Croix in the beautiful US Virgin Islands. The flights were booked with American Airlines. Some of you seasoned travelers will know where this is going. The five of us checked our luggage, went through security at 5:30am, got to the gate... and were told that the flight was overbooked and we were being bumped. Who overbooks on March Break? I looked at the woman at the gate desk and said, “Are you telling me that my family’s dream vacation, a vacation that has been in the planning for a year and cost over $14,000, is done?” She looked sad. But that got me nowhere. I called my travel agent who was still in his bathrobe in Ottawa waiting for his Saturday morning coffee to brew. He was recommended to me by a political friend. This agent did the bookings for those in the Prime Minister’s office. He was good.

“It’s easy to lose sight of the fact that we do sell more than our product.” He got on his computer and put together a re-route where we had to go to Chicago-Boston-New York-San Juan for an overnight then on to St Croix; changing terminals and going through security each and every stage of the way. I said after it was over that, as a younger man I couldn’t have thought of it, and as an older man I couldn’t have done it. But my guy got me there. And we had a wonderful week (after we got our lost luggage). I was reminded about this as I am on a flight to another meeting in our wonderful world of hair enhancement. Service. It’s hard! And in the case of any business, it’s easy to lose sight of the fact that we do sell more than our product. And it’s much more than the latest buzzword like selling an “experience”. We help make people whole again. It’s not called a ‘hair prosthetic’ for nothing. Just like a week of memories with the family is more than just a flight to the Caribbean. I had a client come in to the salon today. Many of us have a client like this: gorgeous, charming, successful… bald. But she wasn’t always like this. When she first came to see me almost thirty years ago she wasn’t successful yet. Because of all those years, I have a relationship with her that is a little different from those with my other clients who

are gorgeous and charming and successful. I get to have a flirty back-and-forth that in some jurisdictions would have me handcuffed to a police cruiser. “Hey, Heartbreaker!” is how I greet her when she came in. She has the Ukrainian smile of a woman that has not gained an ounce since she was 20. One of her wigs was being repaired and colored. She takes very good care of them and gets them to last about 3-4 years. I tell her that the new color suits her since she belongs, “On the dark side”. As I’m just getting ready to go to the airport, she starts talking about how long she has been coming to see me. Her first visit was in the late ‘80’s and I told her that I remembered how she got a lovely dark brown virgin Euro, but also a spiky fire-cracker red synthetic. A few weeks later she’d come back for an adjustment and she told me that she had gone out clubbing with her girlfriends wearing the red. She got picked up (duh) and gave a guy her number, deciding to meet the following week for dinner. But for the dinner date, she wore her below-the-shoulder brunette wig. For the first half of the night, the poor guy was trying to figure out if someone was playing a joke on him. A really pretty joke, but still... So she finally told him that when she’s out with her friends she sometimes wears a wig for fun. “But this,” she said pointing to her wig, “This is my hair.” I asked what his reaction was, but as I guy I knew that he wouldn’t care. She told me that when he told his friends that she was wearing a wig at the club and it’s ‘a thing she does’ his friends were all, “That is soo HOT!!” That’s what we sell. And the fact that this woman has been with me for so long and I have been able to give her the confidence to live the way any woman would want is a testimony to the service (and the look) I have consistently been able to provide. This is what I strive to do for my clients, and I look to others in this business to help me do it. She mentioned that since my 25th anniversary is next year, that means that she knew me before I was married. “And I didn’t hit on you?!? What was wrong with me?” She laughed that charming laugh and wished me a good flight. And she looked great – and I felt proud Written at 30,000 feet over The American Midwest. Michael Suba is a second-generation hair-management professional. He owns Continental Hair in Toronto, Canada and shares his expertise with other studio managers and technicians through workshops and seminars. Michael serves on the International Hair Authority board of advisors and regularly consults for international manufacturers and designers. NHJ

The National Hair Journal Summer 2016

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theradome.com/reseller The Theradome™ LH80 PRO is an over-the-counter (OTC) device FDA-cleared for the treatment of androgenetic alopecia that promotes hair growth in women with female pattern hair loss (FPHL) on the Ludwig and Savin Hair Loss Scale I-II with Fitzpratick Skin Types I-IV.