Hair Journal Winter 2017 Final by The International Hair Authority

SOCIAL

EDUCATION Fight or Flee

More Valuable than Gold

Michael Suba Shares

All About Saffron

MARKETING

PERSONAL

Great Year!

A Hard Lesson

Lance Centofanti Reflects

from Gigi Ford

The International Hair Authority Volume 22 No 75

The Professional Publication of Hair and Skin Rejuvenation

Warm Wishes for a Cold Winter

As The Authority goes to press, temperatures are plummeting across the country. Nearly half of the lower 48 states are seeing temperatures below 32F and 13 percent of the country expects to see daily highs remain below 10 degrees. We can’t change the weather, but here at The Authority, we send you the warmest wishes and hope the information we share in our pages will help guide you to a prosperous 2018.

LaserCapMD

LaserCap® Photomedicine Technology for Hair Regrowth inventor Michael Rabin, MD and his Harvard/MIT Science & Engineering team have announced a new venture called LaserCapMD™. LaserCap is a photomedicine device for hair regrowth, but it is just one medical tool in the battle against hair loss. The new program combines LaserCap light therapy with

No More Alopecia

potent prescription compounded topical and/or oral pharmaceuticals, plus select prescription-dose oral nutraceuticals to maximize hair regrowth. LaserCapMD delivers all 3 treatment modalities in a single “Triple-Treatment Physician-Prescription.” The program has a low monthly price and patients can enroll online with a ‘selfie’ and a brief “e-Doctor” review for prescription approval.

Four-foot-long hair will certainly get you noticed. Russian born, Anastasiya Sidorova has over 389,000 Instagram followers who marvel at the photographs she posts of her 42-inch-long bright red hair. And, yes, it’s all natural. What most followers don’t know is that Anastasiya suffered from alopecia only a few years ago. Under the guidance of skilled trichologist Anastasiya was able to save her hair and nurse it back to what you see today. To see more photos of Anastasiya Sidorova, visit: instagramsidorovaanastasiya

Winter 2017

Hair Visions On The Move Hair Visions International has announced that it will be moving its corporate headquarters to a new address at: 5200 NW 33rd Ave., Ste 100, Ft Lauderdale, FL, 33309. Phone numbers remain unchanged. The modern offices are flanked by attractive parking with shade trees and grassy areas.

FDA Urged to Look More Closely at Beauty Products An editorial published in JAMA Internal Medicine urges better surveillance of cosmetic products. Consumers can already report adverse effects to the FDA’s Adverse Event Reporting System (CAERS), but it was only in Dec 2016 that the FDA began to make this information publicly available. Hair care products, skin care products and tattoos were most commonly reported as the source of problems, according to Steve Xu, a resident physician in dermatology at the McGaw Medical Center of Northwestern University and author of a study on problems with personal care products.

Dubious Inkings

London, 12/17 - Britain’s Daily Mail newspaper has showed off some ‘very dubious inkings.’ “Losing your hair can feel like losing your crowning glory - but a selection of brave souls have chosen to embrace it rather than cover it up” announced the editors. Here’s one creative example. dailymail.co.uk/5224259/Tattooed-men-new-meaning-male-patternedbaldness

The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

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Happy Holidays and a Prosperous New Year

The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

Editorial About Time - I usually start this

column with comments about sales and marketing. But this time I want to do something different. This has been a month of uncommon events. 3 miles from where I am sitting now, a wildfire burned over 300 acres, blowing smoke and ash across my street. We were standing by to be evacuated, but aerial tankers dropping flame retardant saved us. It was wonderful to see the blue sky again and breathe the crisp, clean air of the Temecula valley. A couple of days later, a small hummingbird flew into the house and it took several hours of patience to calm and capture it in a small shoebox and release it outside. And the other night, I sat on the terrace gazing at the sky and marveled at the Geminid meteor shower. I mention these seemingly unrelated things to remind myself and Authority readers to take the time to recognize and be present in these special moments and not let our work become our sole or even principal interest. Of all the things we do, only time can never be restored. Let’s use it wisely. Spring is Conference Time; Or is It? Once upon a time, all the major hair distributors hosted elaborate conferences for their customers at destination resorts. Now only a couple of companies do so. In this issue, Lance Centofanti explains why Hair Visions continues the tradition, but with an important change in focus. Party dress has turned into rolled up shirtsleeves. The sales gatherings of the past have morphed into marketing workshops for business owners. Learn more in our special feature, “2017 That Was the Year That Was.”

Income Inequality – We constantly hear about the grow-

ing divide between the haves and have nots. The people who voted for Trump and the people who were happy the way things were. But the big divide doesn’t only exist in the social and political world. I am constantly struck by the gap between studios that are struggling for business and others that continue to prosper and grow. How do you explain why Toscanos Hair Replacement in Pittsburgh adds tens of new clients every month, provides haircuts and hair addition services to over 200 men and women every day, all without advertising of any kind? Well, the secret is in the personality of Jimmy, the owner, the two-year apprenticeship he requires for all his technicians, and his personal guarantee of satisfaction instead of a written contract. That’s

why we invited Jimmy Toscano to serve on our Advisory Board and share his experience with Hair Authority readers. Expect to see more of Jimmy in these pages in 2018.

More Valuable Than Gold – A kilo of eighteen inch,

blonde, virgin human hair will set you back more than a few dollars, but a kilo of saffron is almost unaffordable. On page 20 we take you to Southern Spain to meet Darren Rozowsky, founder of Saffron Secret, a new hair care collection created with pure saffron. Super-rich in vitamins and micro-nutrients, the hair and skin care benefits of saffron are only now beginning to be discovered in the laboratory.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

The Anti-Aging Business? - I have often written about hair being the first and most obvious sign of the passing years and suggested that we stop talking about hair replacement and restoration and talk more about anti-aging. But what is old age? The World Health Organization used to claim that 65 years was old, but they have recently come up with a new definition: 0 to 17 years: Underage 18 to 65 years old: Youth or young people. 66 to 79 years old: Middle aged 80 to 99 years old: elderly or senior 110 plus years old: Long lived elderly.

2018, What Lies Ahead – A quick checklist; Consumers

will look for ways to save time in everything they do. Dry shampooing will increase. Wet shampooing will be less frequent. Informal, easy-care hairstyles will be most popular. “Organic” living will drive the growth of natural, healthy products. Biodegradable packaging will become the norm. The cost of human hair will continue to rise. So, will production costs. Nothing dramatic is expected in synthetics. Culturing human hair in the lab from harvested donor tissue, often called hair cloning, will not find its way onto the hair restoration landscape, but growing human skin complete with sweat glands and hair follicles will attract serious research investment. Lasers will become more comfortable, more portable and more affordable. Robotics will continue to encroach on hair transplantation. Doctors will remain divided over the benefits of FUE vs FUT. And everyone will claim to have the best hairloss solution! Happy New Year from everyone at the International Hair Authority – writers, researchers, designers, bookkeepers and coffeemakers. Stay healthy and proud of what we do together!

The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

Fight or

Flee?

By Michael Suba When I was starting out in the business I would sometimes complain to my father about a troublesome client. His response was always, “That’s retail.” I found this to be neither helpful nor supportive. And it really started to grate as it became his stock response (after he no longer had to deal with clients). But what he said was a fact. But what to do when a client is unhappy? I had a call several years ago from a colleague who was quite distressed by a client’s threats. The best advice I could give him was that he had to decide whether “to fight or to flee”. What is in your best interest? If you are going to fight, how are you going to win? If you are going to flee, how are you going to make sure that your flight is enough? To be honest, I usually flee. On those occasions, I have fought all the way to court I have won, but its takes a lot of nervous energy that can be better used elsewhere. And let’s face it, we can’t usually afford the time or the fees. But there are times when I will stand my ground. Maybe you’ve experienced something similar to what happened to me last spring. I had a client, let’s call her Susie (not her real name), who would purchase toppers from me. When one of my stylists left me, and opened her own salon (not hair replacement), Susie started going to her to have her hair done. After a

couple years, the inevitable happened and Susie came by to get a new topper. She said she wanted the same thing, so I pulled out her old order, took a deposit, and we were off. When the unit came in, I was in for a surprise. This was an expensive item; 18-inch blonde virgin hair and it looked wonderful! But when Susie saw it, she immediately claimed that it was not the same as before. I showed her the color sample and the specs from her last order, but she insisted, showing me the hair in her tired four-year old topper, telling me that the new hair was too dark. I explained that her old hair had faded over the years, but Susie became very agitated and began crying, saying loudly that I was taking advantage of her… and well, you have seen this sort of thing yourselves I am sure. Anyway, I told Susie that I would order new hair to match her old topper and that I would show it to her before I made it into a system. She agreed, gave me a sample of the topper she was wearing, and I got to work. When her hair came in, I called her to come and see it. She said it was perfect and I sent it off to the factory to have it ventilated into the base she liked. When it came back, I had it all washed and blown out ready for her arrival. I was talking to another client one day when my technician came into my consultation area. “She doesn’t like it,” she said. “What?” I asked, confused. “Who doesn’t like what?” “The client you remade that postiche for. She says it’s the wrong color.” I made my way over to my client who starts in on me even before I arrive. All I am able to say is, “I’m sorry, Susie, but this is the color you signed off on.” But this cuts no ice. She persists and I repeat, “I don’t know what I can do. This is the color and the hair that you saw and approved.” Then she told me that, “In this light it looks different”” and before

The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

I could respond, she got up abruptly, stating, “Fine, I’ll take it! But you just lost a customer! “and made to leave. I was not very sad about that. My receptionist got her card and the balance owing was paid. But as you probably guessed this was not the end. Stage 1: We Will Sue You. Later, when I was taking my wife out for the evening, I foolishly checked my phone. Michael, Once again, I find that you have bullied my sister, XXXXXXX, and provided her with a substandard product that was not at all what she ordered, and not in the least comparable to the last postiche she ordered from you. It seems you take some kine of joy out of scamming highly vulnerable clients. I have reached out to my lawyer as I believe what you have done is committed a fraud against a cancer survivor. Can you please provide proof that the product you provided is indeed human hair, explain why it has been dyed yellow, and offer a written explanation of why you charged for a full postich while delivering the much shorter, much less full version of what you had promised? I promise you that we will not go quiet into that good night. You should be ashamed. If you cannot deliver on the product, you need to refund my sister’s money That is the ethical thing to do - I guess my question is, can you do the ethical thing? I look forward to your reply. xxxx I do not respond to these things anymore. I let my lawyer do that. As business people, we need good professional advice from our lawyers and our accountants. So, I forwarded it to him. Fortunately for him, he was off proudly attending his daughter’s university graduation. I had to wait until he got back. So, I left it. Stage 2: We Will Go to The Media. Because I did not respond yet I received this the next day. We have confirmed with another stylist that for the money XXXX’s pastiche should be considerably fuller and longer. Can you please respond to my earlier queries? If you are not going to make this right, I have no hesitation to reach out to the media - especially as you portray yourself in a way that is in high contrast to your actions. Please let us know how you will make this right. I have taken pictures of her original and the new pastiche you created. The difference is compelling. I await your response. XXX Sent from my iPhone

Yeah. Like many in this business over time you get to know

people in “the media.” They come to you when they need a story, or when a presenter or an associate producer is going through chemo. All the major networks and news outlets know me, so it’s not scary. I did call my publicist however (we also all need a publicist) and asked for advice which turned out to be the same as my wife’s; just pay her to go away. Her logic was that it was not worth the trouble, and I have to agree on that. But there was something there that I could not let go. I had been falsely accused. We have all had that happen to us, but I took exception to being bullied (at the same time as being labelled a bully). And this was even the level of extortion; ‘nice reputation, pay us and we’ll see nothing happens to it’. So, I rejected that advice. I was not going to flee. Stage 3: Please Talk to Us. So now it’s a matter of price. The accusations of are melting away. I felt some satisfaction about this; this sister of my ex client had looked at all the options she had threatened me with and they’d proven to be dead ends. Her bluster and bully tactics had come to nothing. Normally I would have sympathized with anyone not happy with a product, but all that melted away with the shifting goalposts, insults, accusations and threats. Now they want to discuss terms of surrender. I got this the next day. Subject: Response Requested Good morning. I have now confirmed that the hair in the postiche is of high quality. However, it has also been confirmed that the cost of the produce greatly surpassed what was delivered. Can you please have the courtesy to respond to my emails or reach out to my sister… My Response the Next Day. Dear Ms. XXX, I have received and read your three e-mails. I work very hard to provide good service and quality products to all of our clients. As a cancer survivor myself, I take a particular interest in ensuring that we deliver the best possible results to survivors, for many reasons, including the fact that many of them are vulnerable. Your accusations that I would take advantage of your sister or any other fellow survivor, and that I ‘’take some kine (sic) of joy out of scamming highly vulnerable clients” or “have committed a fraud” were upsetting and sickening. However, I am going to give you the courtesy of the presumption that you do not know the entire story. Your sister XXXXX was a client a number of years ago. She returned several months ago. She ordered a postiche with long, high blonde hair. Despite care being taken to have it custom manufactured according to her instructions, she was unhappy with it. I agreed to retain it. It is a Cont’d Pg.6

The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

fine pastiche, but it is a custom hairpiece. The length and color will only suit a small number of people. It remains in our inventory. XXXX was not charged one penny for that piece. I then ordered in hair that would actually be used in the replacement pastiche. XXX came to our salon, saw the hair and confirmed that she was happy with it, specifically the color. I then sent the hair to our manufacturer. When the piece arrived, XXXX came to pick it up. She was unhappy with the color. I reminded her that this was the hair she had seen and approved. She said something to the effect that she would just take it and that I had lost a customer. She paid and left. I do not bully our clients and I did not bully XXXXX. Fortunately, members of my staff and another customer were present and can confirm that. XXXXX knows as an experienced wearer of hairpieces that the hair can be colored or lightened. In ordinary circumstances, we could have done so, but in light of your first and second e-mails, I see no way to rebuild the trust that is required in our client relationship with XXXXX. (Your third e-mail pulls back from some of your earlier, inaccurate assertions, but the damage has been done.) Yours very truly, Michael Suba

I did receive another email from the sister saying it was not what she ordered and that I am still a bully and would I please try to color/style the system to her liking? Some people never learn… I am sure other managers might have dealt with this differently, and maybe there is a better solution out there. We are in business of helping people and we that’s what do, but we are in business ourselves too and sometimes that requires that we draw a line in the sand. I’ll tell you what I learned from this experience. When I am unhappy with a product or service, my first approach is to be exceptionally nice. I don’t want to lose this reflex, no matter how challenging the situation. But I also learned how important it is to keep your records up to date. Record exactly what the client asked for to avoid the “I didn’t order this” syndrome like they were in a Chinese restaurant. I have even gone so far as to upgrade my security cameras. Although there is no sound recording, they are a great asset and help me document my clients’ preferences and requests. I don’t get a lot of client complaints, but I have noticed that since I installed CCTV cameras, even those few complaints have dropped to almost nothing. Hair is a very personal thing. It’s how we make our living. So, managing our clients’ expectations and reacting to their responses says as much about each of us as it does our clients. We all bend over backwards to serve our clients, but we also have to protect ourselves.

Michael

NHA

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The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

“2017 That Was the Year That Was!” “The Energizer” looks back 2017 has been a dynamic and challenging year for Hair Visions. Since David Schwartz took over as CEO, he has implemented a series of marketing programs designed to expand the company’s business base and provide men and women with better insights into the nature and reasons for hair loss. New research became available also, which revealed the importance of preventative hair loss programs and pointed to new marketing opportunities. To learn more about these changes, The Hair Authority met with Hair Visions Vice-president of marketing, Lance Centofanti and invited him to reflect on 2017 The theme of that discussion, and today’s heading, is “2017: That Was the Year That Was!” Hair Authority: Lance, let’s start at the top, with the change of president at the company. David Schwartz stepped into some big shoes and filled them very adequately. Tell us about the transition. Lance Centofanti: Andy Wright of course founded and developed the On-Rite company. He was a self-starter, an entrepreneur who started the business out of the trunk of his car, turned it into a major success and was responsible for a lot of the progress that was made in the hair loss industry for 40 years. It’s not easy to replace someone like that. But the reality is market forces change and David is the perfect candidate to guide the company in today’s world. In response to new market dynamics, Hair Visions has become a more agile company that is driven by its executives and managers. That’s what David excels at. He has solid experience in marketing and most importantly, he listens closely to the needs of our retailers. Authority: Readers of the Hair Authority got an insight into David’s plans when we interviewed him at the beginning of this year. Has 2017 been a good year for the company? Lance: I know I speak for everyone when I say that with David steering Hair Visions through the changing business landscape it has been one of the most exciting periods in the company’s history. Authority: We’ve seen a number of changes in consumer lifestyles and expectations and you have navigated the company very adroitly through them. One of the key insights came from the research carried out by Modern Salon magazine into the needs and opportunities in the beauty market. We learned that men and women were deeply concerned about their future hair loss and were looking for preventative solutions, in addition to hair replacement options. Lance: That is a good synopsis of why we had to look at different approaches to this marketplace. Technology is changing, attitudes are changing, even the generational response to marketing is changing. Today, the big idea in marketing is to communicate clearly how you can benefit customers. You are no longer in just the product and service business. You are in the business of making people’s lives better. In this environment, you will find that the more you offer, the more valuable you will become and the less you offer, the more anonymous you will remain. Today, the door

you open must be wider than before. The industry needs to leverage business adjacencies. It’s time for the industry to get out of the keeping-secrets business and into the sharing-artistry business. The world needs to know more about the wide range of products and services that our phenomenal industry can provide. Authority: Is this what led the company to launch its trichology program? Lance: Yes. Our trichology project is called the “Head First Hair & Scalp Health Program.” Trichology is really the marriage of dermatology and cosmetology. When we tried to figure out how to best answer that call for prevention, we wanted to arm our dealers with qualified products that are green-friendly, eco-friendly, and perform at a very high level. And we knew we had to support that with a good marketing program that would appeal to the younger generation. HA: Does participation in the “Head First” program lead to any kind of professional qualification? Lance: Yes it does. We had to set up a special certification process to identify people with special skills. Men and women looking for a trained trichologist have to be able to quickly find a Head First studio. Here’s how the program works; participants go through a two-day interactive educational program and upon successful completion, they become certified “trichology specialists.” They cannot claim to be a full trichologist yet; that is a two-to-three-year study program, but because they’ve followed a professional study program, they are now accredited hair loss specialists. They can now make hair loss evaluations and offer treatment protocols for their clients based on real science and technology. Head First studios can differentiate themselves as a “Certified Head First Hair Renewal Center, Staffed by Trained Trichology Specialists.” Head First graduates are equipped to offer solutions for thinning or aging hair, as well as more advanced hair loss. They offer the consumer real informa-

The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

tion and choices based on individual needs. Best of all, members receive ongoing marketing support and specialized success coaching from the Head First VIP mentoring team. Members also interact with other trichology specialists through the exclusive Head First Hair-Pro Facebook-Live page. Authority: Hair Visions continues to host conferences for its retail customers at a time when other companies have discontinued their annual events. What sets your shows apart? Lance: That’s a great question. Other manufacturers and distributors have mostly offered events that were essentially product-based. They would display their new products, offer show discounts and perhaps some sales material. But today, it’s hard to compete if you’re just in the product industry because there are more and more cheap options online and everywhere else. It was becoming a race to the bottom. So, it dawned on us, that if we expect loyalty from retailers who have so many options, the only way to win this battle was to organize and host an event that would go beyond products and special promos and allow for the exchange of information, marketing and leadership – things that can only happen in a face to face business meeting. Our goal is to share strategies that are not just product-based or sales-based. To be successful today, you must embark on a journey of socializing your brands, products, and services, not just selling them. If we succeed in that space, we will gain the loyalty of our customers. I’ve always said you should support the companies that care about you, because in business you become what you support. Authority: Many retailers don’t understand the new world of social media and the dynamics of messaging today. I know you’re very proud of the advertising campaign that you’ve created and the philosophy behind it. Could you explain why it’s important today to make friends with the consumer and be part of their lives, and how your campaign does that? Lance: Your question itself provides much of the answer. Consumer todays want a relationship with the product they use, not a sales message. We created a new type of campaign because that’s what the marketplace demands. I research consumer behavior on a continual basis. I’m not an expert in marketing because I went to school to study it, I’m an expert because I study it constantly. I want to know where the consumer is looking. Today in marketing, power is all about how your brand’s story makes people feel, less on what you try to make them do. HA: What communication tools are most effective for you? Lance: We use all the proven marketing tools, but social media is now central to everything. I find it hard to believe that anybody would argue that you can conduct business today without being involved in social media. It is the freshest way to get the message out. In a digital, mobile sharing world it’s no longer a choice whether or not you do social media, it’s how well you do social media that will deter-

mine your success. HA: Tell us about the advertising campaign? Lance: The title, “My Hair My Way” explains the theory behind it. Baby boomers who make up about 70 percent of the existing client base of the hair replacement studio, are retiring at the astounding rate of 10,000 every week. And when people retire, they’re no longer as focused on their appearance as they were during their working years, so if hair replacement studios want to sustain and grow their businesses, it’s simple. We need to attract and bring into our studios a higher percentage of the younger generation to fill the vacuum. Well, young people think differently. We discussed that earlier. They’re looking for prevention. Certainly, some of them need some kind of hair replacement, but a majority of men and women are looking for prevention. They are mindful consumers who focus on health, technology, education and choice. They don’t want to be hard-sold to. For years, the hair loss industry has created marketing campaigns based on products that were mostly similar and then called them “exclusive.” There is no sustainable technology advantage anymore. Because of new technologies, virtually any design or product can be copied in a matter of 24 hours and put on line at a cheaper price. So now the challenge is: how do I embrace new prospects and customers and make them feel special? “Give me education; help me understand. Give me choice. Give me technology and science.” That’s what the younger generation desires, demands and deserves. HA: How important is this target group? Lance: At 162 million, they are the biggest demographic. They are no longer outsiders; they are the customer. HA: Can young men and women starting their careers afford our hair management products which are becoming more and more expensive? Lance: You know, a lot of people say in our industry, “Younger folk have no money to spend.” Well, my research has debunked that theory because the three demographics we’ve been speaking about are projected to spend $200 trillion worldwide in 2018. Our job is to figure out how to make them spend some of that money with us. Right now, they only make up about 30 percent of our client base. That’s a problem. When my team put “My Hair My Way” together, they deliberately created a choice-based, rather than sales-based campaign. We also knew it needed to have social media appeal. Now social media demands stories, fun stories that are hip, cool, fun. That’s what gets shared, not a sales message. So, our first messaging for My Hair My Way was based on being fun and hip. It wasn’t just about hair replacement. It was about beautiful hair and how you could have it your way; whether that means trichology, laser therapy, extensions, hair replacement… or simply protecting your hair and keeping it beautiful. We want viewers to know they will find all these services only at My Hair My Way studios. Authority: Our next question, which you’ve three-quarters answered, was going to be: At a time when it’s easy for the consumer to find hair online and buy it very economically, why would they come to a Hair Vision studio? Lance: That’s a great question, because it’s all about trust and credibility. How do you stand out when it’s no longer a Cont’d Pg.10

The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

marketing sales world? Well, the way you do that is through proper credentials and credible messaging. That certification is now offered by our Head First education and the Directory of Hair Loss Professionals being developed by the Hair Authority are both going to make a big difference when people go online or visit a studio’s website and discover real specialists with serious skills and qualifications that are not available anywhere else. Whatever it is that they are looking for, people will learn that Hair My Way studios are the best destination. Authority: It is significant that today we’ve been talking about lifestyle and the consumer. If we’d had this conversation five years ago, we would’ve been talking about factories and hair systems. So, a major sea lane change is taking place. But I’d like to briefly switch back to questions about the product because I know there are concerns about price increases and the availability of quality hair. What are the challenges facing the industry today? Lance: These are not new challenges; it’s just that they have manifested themselves in a more obvious way because of changes in the labor market in Asia. Labor costs continue to sky-rocket to stay current and competitive with the Asian economy. Factory workers in Asia now have more choices. They have access to the web and are involved in social media so they are exposed to many different job choices. As a result, it’s getting harder to retain qualified people in hair factories as ventilators and technicians. Now add the fact that there are many more hair products like hair extensions being sold just when there is less quality hair available and you’ve got a perfect storm. Women everywhere, even in third-world countries, are now coloring their hair, straightening it and exposing it to chemical treatment, so natural, untreated, beautiful hair is getting harder to get. So, what’s the answer? Well, the first thing is to find and stick with companies that have the history and connections to navigate this changing landscape. Clients need to work with distributors who have clout, which means the purchasing power to get priority treatment. We have been a dominant force in hair replacement from the very beginning and we are known and respected by all the important suppliers. We continue to import from the largest and most skilled factories in Asia. At Hair Visions International David and his production team communicate and work daily with each factory to address our customers concerns about consistent quality production and delivery times. Although David was successful in holding prices down this past year, it is inevitable that prices will increase in 2018. These are tough things to manage and it takes experience to stay ahead. Authority: Are there other ways to provide hair loss solutions or create added value? Lance: I think about this constantly. If I were still a retailer in the business, and with the acknowledgement that hair is our core business and will remain so, why would I be tied into only hair replacement products? Why not start offering

different choices where I could make profit and where those problems wouldn’t hamstring me? Something like hair loss prevention, in other words, “trichology”? Product quality is not an issue with trichology. Product issues and quality issues and pricing is not a problem with laser treatments, or with transplants, or with PRP. That’s why the day of letting your business be only dependent on delivering “great hair” puts you in a difficult predicament currently. Authority: Looking back on 2017, what are you most proud of having contributed, both to the industry and to Hair Visions? Lance: I don’t think about that day to day, but I try to live that day to day. I always try to make my audience, which is my customers as well as my company who employs me, proud of the fact that I don’t just deliver speeches or talks or do presentations. I get up early and I go to bed late because I don’t just want to dispense information, I am laser focused to dispense fresh ideas as well as solutions to the business challenges we all face. Growth is the ultimate test of business vitality, so my job is to simply look for the places where our customers can grow next. Authority: Well, you will get the opportunity to make some lives better on March 11 when you host your next marketing conference… Lance: We’re excited about this. It’s going to be a different kind of meeting. Every other event I’ve been to in the last ten years – and this is not to criticize the other manufacturers – just announced the company’s latest products. It seems to me that if I go to a meeting today and just see products, I could just ask you for your catalogs. I believe people should travel on business for one reason only- to get business done! Why would I spend money to go to any event unless I’m going to get something valuable to implement in my business from my investment? By the way, along with the Head First symposium on March 11th and the 20\20 foresight strategy +business forum on March 12th, on Tuesday March 13th, David, Rhonda and the sales team, the VIP mentoring team, myself, Darryl and the marketing team - all of us look forward to hosting our symposium and 20\20 forum members at the new Hair Visions International headquarters. About Lance: Lance has been in the beauty making and hair restoration industry for over 50 years. A licensed hair stylist Lance owned multiple salons before joining On Rite in 1999 as a professional sales representative. In 2000 Lance was promoted to National sales manager and was instrumental in developing sales and marketing programs including FolliGraft and the Bella Moda campaigns. In 2001 Lance moved to Hair U Wear as Vice President of Sales and Marketing for the American Hairlines division where he developed the Virtual Reality, Virtuess campaign as well as the Natural Advantage program. Lance rejoined Hair Visions International in 2015 as Vice President of marketing and has guided the implementation strategies for the Head First and My Hair My Way campaigns. Lance believes that life is an endless process of self-discovery and an endless dialog between our potential and growth. We must use our full range of capacity for wondering, sensing, learning and inspiring. A true leader grows professionally and personally every day, NHA and helps others reach their full potential.

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The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

Drawing the Line Between Honesty and Self Preservation When does a woman reveal to a man she’s just met that she wears a wig due to hair loss? By Amy Gibson

There are those who tell women living with Alopecia and other types of hair loss, that when dating you must tell your partner immediately or you’re essentially being dishonest, leading that person on and beginning the relationship on the wrong foot because you’re not “fully disclosing the details.” I personally believe this approach actually couldn’t be further from the truth and in fact I believe that “sooner than later disclosure” creates even more emotional upheaval. I believe you must be emotionally ready to tell someone, especially if you’re interested in them romantically and need to be trusting of the person you share such an intimate private issue with. Doing so before you are ready, has the potential to create more harm than good. Let me explain my reasoning Before finding my own prince charming, I had been through the good, the bad and the ugly of dating, with experiences that had everything and nothing to do with my hair. However, my own level of emotional understanding and acceptance of my hair issue certainly added to those experiences. The Scenario Let’s say you meet your dream man. You’ve gone for lunch and now dinner. For most women when there is this much chemistry, they are already picking out their wedding dress in their minds (I know I was! LOL) Now, let’s say, in the middle of great conversation with chemistry flying all over the table - suddenly he begins going into great lengths about this type of rash he has had on his back and explains in further detail the look and feel of that rash. Hmm, well aside from breaking the mood it certainly would stop the chemistry for a moment ... Then things go back to normal and more fun conversation ignites, when right in the middle of a great flow of laughter he makes an unpleasant comment about his mother. UH OH Red Flag … and you stop and take notice, hence bringing

the mood to a different level and most likely shifting any romantic or sexual chemistry. In fact, it may make you wonder what other issues this guy has… For many women this combination would most likely make them take a second look or step back all together; I mean what kind of guy brings up an infected rash and a Mother issue in a new dating atmosphere anyway? Here’s the Difference Had you gotten to know this person a bit longer and experienced his sense of heart and caring and his true ability to be in a relationship, thus resulting in building trust - which in my experience takes a few months - then the rash may not bother you as much and you might even clean the rash for him.

“Sometimes it takes bluffing it until you’re ready like I did by creating an excuse so he would not go near my hair and we could be more relaxed.” You would likely be able to understand his mother conversation too in a more sensitive way with less judgment. It would be less likely to feel like foreign territory and might even create a space to exchange emotional support and intimacy, which of course has nothing to do with sex, but can certainly lead there. It takes time to build trust and a safe environment with someone. Hair loss or not. In my personal experience, every time I forced myself to hold back on revealing my hair issue, the more in control I felt and more secure when I was around a man. Of the many clients I have counseled, the one thing that has been present with women living with hair loss is a sense of need and not feeling good enough. The loss of their hair has a way of doing this to women. So, for a woman to give her power up too soon only feeds that fire. Often times they jump in too soon and feel that by exposing their secret, that it will somehow strengthen the connection. Hmm, that’s quite a chance to take. Sometimes it takes bluffing it until you’re ready like I did by creating an excuse so he would not go near my hair and we could be more relaxed. Sometimes I explained to my date that I had just returned from a strong hair treatment or had new extensions put in and my head was sore or simply that I have a thing about anyone touching my hair so please don’t. And they didn’t. As I tell my clients, don’t let anyone push you into exposing this special part of yourself before you feel ready or trusting. It’s a ‘gift’ to give this part of yourself so don’t be afraid to take the time it takes for you to be absolutely comfortable and know that this person is worthy of your gift. NHA

The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

Wasting Away in Margaritaville

Chances are, your clients are ready to get away from the damp and rain and are eagerly looking forward to vegging out on the beach or that cruise they’ve been saving up for. And that’s a great idea… if they protect their skin and scalp from the sun. Remember we’re in the hair… and scalp business and scalp melanomas have been shown to be more lethal than other melanomas, with one study showing scalp and neck melanomas deaths were nearly twice as common compared to melanomas elsewhere on the body. In fact, many experts believe that the scalp provides the right conditions for melanoma to spread, since it has abundant blood vessels and lymphatics. Of all types of skin cancer, melanoma causes the majority of deaths. When on the scalp it can be especially difficult to catch in a self-examination. The World Trichology Society, an organization dedicated to educating, supporting and promoting arachnologists worldwide, noted in its December newsletter that researchers from the University of Southern California and University of Colorado Denver had shown 100 hairdressers in the Los Angeles a short video alerting them to the dangers of melanoma and explaining how to spot sun damage on their clients’ heads. After viewing, the team saw significant increases in stylists’ awareness and knowledge. The researchers noted that “half of melanomas go undetected by self- inspection, and those undetected occur frequently on the scalp and neck,” so “hairdressers, a group that makes daily observations of the scalp and neck” could play a valuable role in helping to detect such cases.

Modern sunscreens block UVB rays almost entirely and most people think they are adequately protected. But the latest research suggests otherwise. UVB damage causes sunburn in the short term but it’s UVA that’s emerging as the big problem. Melanoma rates in the US alone are still climbing, with almost 5 million new episodes diagnosed a year. Most current sunscreens are not effective against UVA and the damage it causes isn’t obvious in the same way as red skin or a sunburn. So, when you hear a client tell you they are going to go away for a week or two, be sure to remind them not to let their guard down and remove their hair system - and if they choose to go au naturel, to wear a hat and not rely solely on their sunscreen.

(Lyrics - Jimmy Buffett) “Nibblin’ on sponge cake, Watchin’ the sun bake; All of those tourists covered with oil. Strummin’ my six string on my front porch swing. Smell those shrimpThey’re beginnin’ to boil.” NHA

The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

Your Practice Have a Website? Don’t Make These Mistakes By Dr. Jeffrey Segal, MD, JD, FACS

Dr Segal has been providing advice and support to the medical community for over 15 years. Although his articles and lectures are written for the medical profession, his advice and insights are frequently relevan t to the personal care industry and Dr Segal has kindly agreed to share his comments with readers of The National Hair Journal*. In this article, Dr Segal outlines the do’s and don’ts of website development. It’s a must read for anyone who has, or is contemplating, building a website. Of course, your practice has a website. Maybe it’s old. Maybe it’s being updated. But, the following lessons apply to almost anyone and everyone in healthcare. In no particular order, here are some tips: Make sure YOU own your content. I can’t tell you the number of times I’ve heard from a doctor who had an untoward outcome after working with a vendor that created their site, added content, and then maintained the site. This relationship triggered monthly payments (like an annuity). Over time the doctor appropriately questioned what the vendor was REALLY doing. Nothing seemed to be changing on the site. So, the doctor would terminate the relationship. That’s when the doctor learns in the fine print that he does not own his content. He licenses it from the vendor. Terminate the relationship, and the content goes bye-bye. No content will be transferred to a new vendor. Hasta la vista, baby. In that situation, the handcuffs are on. Either you continue making monthly payments ad infinitum, or you start over. Solution: Before you get started, make sure the engagement agreement specifies you own any content and graphics on your site. Next, make sure you own the domain name, including any passwords to access the site. In the agreement, state that if you do terminate the relationship, the vendor will assist with transfer to a new vendor. Vendors who are confident in their abilities and business practices will gladly agree. Those who deliver mediocre work or have shady business practices will think of every way to handcuff you. Be careful about using images that are copyright protected. Infringing on someone’s copyright can be expensive. Particularly if you are sued. If a third party creates a photo, logo, or graphic image, then, it’s already copyright protected, whether or not they register it with the Library of Congress. It’s their work and you need their permission to use it for

anything other than what is called “fair use.” If you are promoting your website for commercial purposes, then using copyright protected images is generally not considered “fair use. “Not uncommonly, a website designer will scan the Internet for images that match his emerging aesthetic for your site. Then, cut and paste. While your web site might look pretty, you probably now have a legal headache. Solution: Use you own images and pictures. If you create them yourself, or as a work for hire, you own the copyright. Then, if someone steals your pictures, you can protect your turf. This stuff cuts both ways. If you want to use images from elsewhere, make sure they are free to license (e.g.: from Creative Commons). Or purchase a license from the creator and/or licensor. Finally, make sure your website designer indemnifies you for any legal grief that might be caused by copyright. So, if they do bring home something from the Internet that belongs to someone else, you’re not be the only one at risk. By the way, it’s no excuse to blame the website designer. The “infringee” will sue you. Any indemnification agreement allows you to get paid back. Be careful about making bold claims. A manufacturer recently made a bold claim about its charging cables – those that connect your computer to USB devices and the like. They said some of the shielding was coated with Kevlar, the same material found in bullet proof vests. The claim was that these cables are stronger than ordinary cables. The implied subtext (correct, it was not explicit) was that it could withstand a bullet. If your charging cable is being shot at, you likely have a bigger problem than the longevity of the cable. Still, ArsTechnica took the implied claim to the firing range. While the cable was strong, it was no match for a

“Be careful about making claims about your medical or dental results (unless they are backed up with sound data), your certifications, and your background, training, and experience.” bullet. The public’s mockery came on like a tsunami. Be careful about bold claims. If you’re in healthcare and make any claims, you are regulated by advertising mandates from your licensing board. Virtually every state medical and dental licensing boards (and the Federal Trade Commission) demand that any claims you make be substantively true. No hyperbole. If you say you’re the best bariatric surgeon in Oklahoma City, you better have some objective, statistically sound documentation to support that premise. What about being voted the Best Doctor in US Weekly? I don’t know. Perhaps you can state you were voted the Best Doctor in US Weekly, but, it will likely need a disclaimer – stating that it represents a non-random sampling of the local population who may or may not have been treated by you. And more disclaimer sentences. I know some doctors make bold claims on their site. But, it’s not a problem until it’s a problem. Be careful about making claims about your medical or dental results (unless they are backed up with sound data),

The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

your certifications, and your background, training, and experience. And some Boards of Medicine / Dentistry have even more changing restrictions. Your “Contact US” form. If your “Contact US” form is used as a communication platform with established patients, it needs to be HIPAA compliant. So, that data needs to be transmitted securely (that means https protocol), and then stored securely. Your average webmaster will likely not think of these details unless he is shoulder-deep in healthcare experience. Next, you need to manage expectations. Disclaimers, disclaimers, disclaimers. For prospective patients, a disclaimer must state that merely filling out the form does NOT create a doctor-patient relationship. Any emergent or urgent condition should be seen in ER or call 911. That disclaimer about urgent or emergent conditions applies also for established patients. Your website should not be the primary conduit for a patient getting in touch for anything that is time sensitive. Make sure your patients understand how email, texting, and website can and will be used down the road. Finally, any items that come in from established patients becomes part of the medical record and needs to be documented. Take Home Message: Lots to think about. And, yes there’s more. But, just find a reputable, trusted webmaster the knows healthcare. Asking about the above four points will help you navigate to a better choice. *The National Hair Journal is now The International Hair Authority. **Readers of The International Authority offering medical services can learn more about eMerit by going to https:// emerit.biz/ Reprinted with permission of eMerit – In 1998, founder and CEO, Jeffrey Segal, MD, JD developed the concept of Medical Justice while practicing neurosurgery. His vision was a unique approach that formed part of a two-pronged strategy: to deter the filing of frivolous medical malpractice lawsuits and to enable viable responses and remedies from wrongful suits against physicians. On 2002 he founded Medical Justice® as the strongest possible advocate for doctors in medico-legal matters, fiercely protecting their member’s most valuable professional assets: their practices and reputations. Shortly thereafter, eMerit® was born. eMerit’s mission is simple: Architect and realize an ecosystem where NHA both doctors and patients thrive.

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The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

A Hard Lesson I Learned in the Hair Industry A word of advice to the next generation of innovators and designers By Gloria “Gigi” Ford

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My name is Gloria “Gigi” Ford and I am the owner of Hair Loss Solutions. I am also the patent/copyright owner & inventor of ‘Hair Alterations,’ a design that provides custom scalp molding for hair replacement. In this article, I want to share my experience in the hair industry; the good and the bad… and tell you what to look out for to protect your own creations and brand. I am currently battling a case of plagiarism and copyright infringement and I hope this will help other designers avoid this pitfall. The Challenge - In 1994, I started working 18 hour shifts with a few clients whose hair loss had become increasingly problematic. Some women were experiencing female pattern baldness, others had alopecia. Most of them had hair loss on the top of their head, so I had to make a base on their head with synthetic hair and thread their weave hair through it. This would typically take about five hours per client from start to finish.

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The New Design - That’s when a God-given idea came to me. I envisaged a totally different kind of base design and immediately sketched out some prototypes and started to think about what it could be made of. The more I worked on this new concept, that by now had been named, “Hair Alteration,” the better it became. My next step was to search for companies capable of manufacturing my design and I finally found one that seemed to be a good fit. Protection – Like any good designer, I then took steps to register and protect my invention. What you see here are drawings and designs submitted and approved to secure the copyright and patent for my Hair Alteration design. The Good - Around 1996, after patenting and copyrighting my design, I began working with a manufacturer/distributor in Ft Lauderdale, Florida and signed a 3-year License

The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

Agreement authorizing them to produce my Hair Alterations product. At first things went well and I have documentation provided to me by the company owner showing sales and royalty payments, along with copies of her newsletters and catalogs acknowledging me as the creator of the Hair Alteration product. The Bad - However, prior to the end of the 3-year licensing period, the company suddenly stopped making royalty payments without mutual agreement or justification, a clear breach of our contract. Did they offer a compensatory payment? No. Did they stop selling my product? No. In fact, the company continues to sell my product to this day. No payments, no explanation, no apologies. The Ugly - I still possess letters from my attorneys showing my repeated attempts to resolve this breach of contract in a civilized manner. However, the company failed to respond. I also have testimonials from models, clients and students who witnessed and benefited from my creation, but to explain away their breach of contract, the company now credits other people with being creators of my child, my Hair Alterations design, to try and justify its behavior. Significantly, most of the people caught up in this deception either quit or severed their relationships with the company – which tells its own story…

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The Lesson – Here’s the bottom line. Choose your partners wisely. Get references. Don’t take shortcuts on your due diligence. Your best protection is a good relationship. It is hard to protect your intellectual property, particularly in an unstructured industry like hair replacement. If you can’t afford a top-rated corporate attorney, get a top-rated friend. The Future - Having lived through this unhappy experience, I made the decision to personally control every step in the creation and production of my designs. After much soul-searching and a lot of research, I took a trip to China in 1999 to meet a talented manufacturer. I now work handson with a new and talented team that I fully trust to get my work get created and distributed. And that’s a good feeling! Why? - After 20 years of hanging on to my original designs and documents, and after all the legal and emotional turmoil, I am back to publicly claim credit for my creation, like a child longing to be reunited with its biological mother. I am sharing this case history to help other designers protect their creations. Even with all the right contracts and documents signed and sealed, if you are not in full control of your creation from beginning to end, it may no longer be recognized as yours. Do your homework; don’t fall victim to identity theft! About Gloria “Gigi” Ford - “Gigi” has dedicated her career to helping women suffering from hair loss find non-surgical solutions and creative, undetectable hair prosthesis. Her greatest passion is working with the American Cancer Society, The Alopecia Foundation and the Trichotillomania Foundation. Gigi travels the world educating cosmetologists, researching new techniques and exploring base design. She is an internationally renowned educator and expert in hair styling, hair replacement, consulting, product/project development, program planning and training curriculum and design. She has designed prosthesis for New Concept Hair Goods and Onrite. Gigi holds a Master’s Degree in Cosmetology with the National Beauty Culture League. She has traveled to Hong Kong, China, Korea and Indonesia to study hair prosthesis design. She has also studied in the UK at Vidal Sassoon in Hair Cutting. Gigi now tours the U.S. training future and experienced hair prosthesis specialists in the correct process of non-surgical hair replacement and the theory behind it. She also helps specialists start their own businesses in hair replacement. NHA

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The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

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The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

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The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

The Magic of Saffron A personal discussion with Darren Rozowsky, Co-Founder of Saffron Secret, a professional hair care line infused with organic saffron, nature’s richest and most health-beneficial spice.

Hair Authority: There’s only one place to start this conversation – tell us about the “magic.” Darren Rozowsky: Saffron is one of the most expensive and precious spices in the world. As far back in time as 1500BC, it was revered for it’s almost magical properties. Historians Darren have discovered referencRozowsky es to the power of saffron in places like the Egyptian papyruses, ancient Chinese books of medicine, and even in the Jewish temple to God where it was one of the 11 sacrificial spices. Throughout history, saffron has been used for health purposes and even for its aphrodisiac properties. The Persians used it to lighten skin tone and reduce dark circles below the eyes. Ayurveda medicine continues to utilize saffron in its remedies and rituals. To this day, saffron remains a rare, elusive spice, full of allure, mystery and romance. Our collection, Saffron Secret, brings these powerful elements together to create a premium hair care line. HA: Where does saffron come from? DARREN: We grow our own Crocus flowers on the Iberian Peninsula of Spain in the Ebro Valley. The saffron rose, grows especially well on these arid hillsides. It’s a land of legend, colored by nobility, pilgrims, witches and smugglers. Our cultivators produce 100% organic saffron with a yield of B2 vitamins that’s higher than anywhere else in the world.

HA: You are not a professional therapist or farmer, so how did saffron come into your life? DARREN: My business partner, Daniel Moyal was born in Morocco where saffron was an important part of the food he grew up with. There was always excitement in his home when his mother would cook with saffron. However, it became increasingly scarce because of its high price and only a privileged few could afford it. As a young boy, he couldn’t understand what made saffron so exclusive and why people would pay so much for it. It was only later in life when he was working as a product formulator, that his research revealed a multitude of historical references to saffron’s dietary and medicinal benefits. That’s when he had the Eureka moment which he shared with us and we got working. After developing and formulating other products for many years, there was a team realization that Daniel had stumbled on something unique and that we were about to embark on a journey with a powerful new ingredient with real potency and a romantic storyline.

“Unlike most other flowers, saffron cannot grow by itself in the wild.” HA: Saffron has many properties; culinary, medicinal and cosmetic. Why did you decide to focus on its cosmetic benefits? DARREN: It was an embarrassment of riches. We came across so many historical references not only the medicinal benefits of saffron, but also its beautifying role. Cleopatra used to bathe in milk and saffron and the ladies in the court

The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

of King Henry 4th put saffron and gold in their hair. This was particularly interesting to us and in fact it became the tipping point as we tried to find the correct balance between health and beauty. I come from a family of doctors, but I also have a hi-tech background, so I was looking to create a product that would offer a demonstrable benefit to consumers from both a physical and technology perspective. Now my partners come from the cosmetic world and have extensive experience with formulations, inventions and patents, so we felt we had the right mix of skills to achieve this. HA: You referred several times to saffron as a “spice.” What is the difference between a spice and an herb? DARREN: When we refer to an herb, we are generally referring to a plant’s green leaves. Spices, on the other hand, are the other parts of a plant that are not green, like the bark, seeds, and roots. In the case of saffron, we are referring to the 3 stamens that sprout up within the Saffron or Crocus Sativus flower. HA: What is so unique about these saffron stamens? DARREN: Unlike most other flowers, saffron cannot grow by itself in the wild. It needs the perfect climate. It is an extremely rare and labor-intensive spice to cultivate. Further-

more, each plant contains only 3 stamens, the only part of the plant that’s utilized in the production of saffron. So, you can imagine that this is an exceeding precious commodity. When it comes to the unique benefits of this flower, it is the high levels of minerals and micro-nutrients that set it apart. The high concentration of vitamin B2 plays a huge role in energy production, and the other important antioxidants help keep the skin and scalp healthy. Saffron is also rich in B6, manganese, magnesium, selenium, zinc and calcium, amongst others. As you can see, this concentration of minerals and nutrients is unlike any other flower. HA: Other people have doubtless read about saffron and done their own research. What makes Saffron Secret special? DARREN: You’re right. There is a lot of information in academia that indicates how saffron has been used throughout history for all manner of purposes, including indigestion, and even as an aphrodisiac or antidepressant. However, it’s only in the past few decades that research has revealed that saffron is beneficial for the skin and complexion. This research and clinical trials have finally made the legendary benefits of saffron more than hearsay and created a platform for Saffron Secret to promote its benefits for the scalp and hair. Cont’d Pg.22

The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

Depending on your hair type and your stylist’s recommendation, you could switch off using the hair conditioner and the hair mask for a longer and more in-depth hydration and scalp treatment. Our hair oil can be used as much as you want for styling and an extra boost. Some clients even put it on their skin. HA: Due to the origin and high expense of bringing Saffron Secret to market, this has to be a premium product line. DARREN: It is more expensive than other mass-produced products for all the reasons you mentioned, but our customers like the results… and they like the romance and folklore behind the brand. HA: Is this why you named your company Saffron Secret? You are revealing things that were known in history but not known to the public? DARREN: Exactly! Saffron has so many benefits, many of which we have yet to uncover. Society today is health conscious and concerned about what goes on their hair and skin, as well as what goes in their bodies when they eat and drink. This opens up many opportunities as we tap into further benefits that saffron has to offer. HA: If you had to give an “elevator pitch” on healthy hair and the benefits of saffron, what would you say? DARREN: I would say that we have taken nature’s richest ingredient to help men and women enjoy and maintain the healthiest scalp and hair. HA: What would they see and feel that would be different? DARREN: They would notice that they had a healthier scalp and hair that is not weighed down. Their hair would be much smoother, lustrous and less frizzy. It would be easier to style and care for and be less of a hassle on a day to day basis. All the signs of robust, healthy hair. HA: Would they still need other products when they start their saffron regimen? DARREN: Our products are multi-faceted and include smoothing treatment, shampoo, conditioner, mask and hair oils. It’s a fully encompassing beneficial hair regimen which reduces your exposure to undesirable formulations. There are brands using toxic chemicals to give you benefits like straighter hair and these chemicals seep into your scalp and into your body. With our product, you get important nutrients, not things like formaldehyde. HA: What is the recommended regimen for Saffron Secret? DARREN: We recommend applying the smoothing treatment once every 3 months. Don’t wash your hair prior to use. It’s important that our product gets into the hair cuticle and we learned that if you wash your hair prior to use, this is reduced. Our shampoo can be used on a daily or bi-daily basis and the conditioner should be used after shampooing.

HA: Given that folklore and the history of saffron, this a product that requires a lot of consumer education to get the storyline and benefits across so it would make good sense to work closely with hair care professionals. Is this your distribution strategy? DARREN: We have found that the people who appreciate Saffron Secret most are professional stylists and cosmetologists because they work with many different products and they can see the difference. They know when they are handling a superior product. HA: Who is your target audience? DARREN: Health conscious men and women who want to use natural and organic products to improve the condition of their hair. Other people fall in love with the allure and mystery of the product and for them, the folklore is part of the experience. Then there are others who are simply looking for an answer to their hair woes. We are targeting people who are looking for the best that nature has to offer; a product that truly delivers what it promises and strikes the balance between health and beauty.

“Saffron has so many benefits, many of which we have yet to uncover.” HA: What feedback are you getting from consumers? DARREN: Saffron seems to be hitting a chord with our audience. People are sending us notes about how Saffron has changed their hair. We’re becoming something of a cult or fashion statement too - one of our products, the hair oil, actually has some saffron floating in it and customers are carrying the oil around with them and applying it like a lipstick. They want to show off the beautiful packaging since you can actually see the saffron. HA: You are in a fortunate place. You have demographics on your side with the aging population, psychology on your side because research indicates a growing concern among millennials about future hair loss, and, of course, the trend towards an organic and healthy lifestyle.

The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

DARREN: Those are all important trends, but we don’t take anything for granted. Our quality control is rigorous. When formulating their “natural elements,” many companies add an essence or greatly dilute those “elements,” but in our case, saffron is always the largest ingredient in the bottle. It is not a bystander, it is the main ingredient. We also believe it is important to have total control over the supply chain, which is why we grow the saffron ourselves to ensure the quality.

“Our company does everything in house, from the research to the manufacturing to quality control.” HA: Who controls processing and bottling? DARREN: It is important to have total and vigilant control over the way the saffron is extracted and processed. The manufacturing process at Saffron Secret is something we insist on managing in order to protect and maximize this rare and potent ingredient. We actually created the term ‘Saffron water’, because the saffron stamens are actually dispersed within the bottles. This has never been done before. Our company does everything in house, from the research to the manufacturing to quality control. That’s the only way to maintain our standards. HA: You are clearly passionate about your products. What can we expect from Saffron Secret in the future? DARREN: We foresee an expansion of the hair care line into several specialist niches we haven’t touched yet. We also see a need for further education since many people still don’t know what saffron is. We also have formulations ready for skin care, but are still working on distribution options. We are still a small company and cannot manage two different verticals at the same time. Finally, we hope to be able to get to a point where we work with PhD’s at universities to do even more research on further benefits of saffron. We believe we are only at the tip of what saffron has to offer. About Darren: Today I am the proud cofounder of Saffron Secret which has launched saffron into the modern-day beauty era, starting with professional hair-care. As a passionate entrepreneur, I bring the brain, the storm and the creativity to project ventures from dream stage to productive implementation. The pillars of my diverse background are entrepreneurship, management, internationalism, business development & marketing. During my diverse career, I have been the CEO of an ad-tech startup, consulted clients on strategic marketing and business expansion, launched philanthropic education and innovation projects in schools for children at risk, and have been a provider of strategic lead generation and back-office outsourcing services for global clients focusing on opening their sales pipelines and meeting strategic requirements. For 3 years prior to launching Saffron Secret, we built a winning all-rounded team and spent our time researching and developing cosmetNHA ics with saffron.

THE INTERNATIONAL HAIR AUTHORITY Formerly The National Hair Journal that was founded in 1977 as a business resource for salon and clinic owners. Its mission remains to provide hair-management professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will help them provide superior service to their clients and patients. It is a full-color tabloid, published quarterly and distributed worldwide. EDITOR IN CHIEF Christopher Webb

cwebb@internationalhairjournal.com

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Dylan Case

dcase@internationalhairjournal.com

LEGAL NOTICE The views expressed in The International Hair Authority are those of the individual author or contributor and not those of The International Hair Authority, its editors or staff. The Authority’s contents reflect the opinions of the authors and are not analyzed, peer-reviewed or otherwise investigated before publication. All authors and contributors are asked to disclose any interests they have of a commercial nature. The International Hair Authority makes no attempt to validate the sufficiency of such disclosures and makes no warranty, guarantee or other representation, expressed or implied with respect to the accuracy or sufficiency of any information provided. The publication of an advertisement does not constitute on the part of the International Hair Authority a guarantee or endorsement of the quality or value of the representations or claims made by the advertiser. The International Hair Authority accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All articles and letters become the property of the International Hair Authority and may be edited for clarity, presentations and space. By allowing your articles, interviews and personal commentary to be used in The International Hair Authority, you are giving the publication permission to use these materials in its pages, websites and other information materials. Advertisers are required to sign a formal advertising agreement indicating that they are not violating any trademarks or other intellectual properties. Full details are outlined in The International Hair Authority Media Kit. COYPRIGHT The material published in The International Hair Authority is copyrighted and may not be utilized in any form without the written consent of the editor. THE INTERNATIONAL HAIR AUTHORITY 39252 Winchester Road #107-383 Murrieta, CA 92563 Tel: 626-709-6397

The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

Flash Reports Invoice Template Generator

Don’t want to deal with complicated bookkeeping software, and need to bill someone in a hurry? Try this free invoice generator from HubSpot to create and download professional invoices to send to your customers. Start by filling in your business details in the invoice template below to populate the statement. You can add additional line items by clicking the “+ Add More” button. When you’re done with the details, click on the tools icon to the left to customize your color scheme. When complete, click the “Download Now” button to download the invoice PDF. Once you’ve downloaded the invoice, send it to your customers via email or print it and mail it directly. www.hubspot.com/invoice-template-generator. Advertisment

The following new products and services have come to the attention of The Authority. We report on them without seeing or trying them. The fact that a product is featured in our Flash Reports in no way implies our approval or endorsement.

Scalp Friendly Means Earth Friendly Trichology-based brand Philip Kingsley has adopted new biodegradable packaging from M&H for its range of scalp toners. The material disintegrates in soil at a fraction of the normal plastic decomposition rate, providing environmental benefits for a product that is unlikely to be recycled. Philip Kingsley was the man who coined the phrase, Bad hair day’; was the first to introduce the idea of ‘hair textures’ into the hair industry; developed the world’s first ‘pre-shampoo conditioner’; introduced the concept of scalp masks, scalp tonics and hair treatments into the market; and was the first to link hair health with nutrition and bodily wellbeing.

Triple Your Clients’ Hair Growth Therapy with potent physician-prescribed treatments

LaserCap is just one tool in the management of hair loss. But for maximum results, it should be used in conjunction with physician-prescribed topical formulations and oral pharmaceuticals to maximize regrowth. That’s why we are excited to introduce LaserCapMD, a new program that delivers online and in real-time top-quality physician-prescribed photo medicine, topical and oral pharmaceuticals, plus prescription-strength super-food nutraceuticals to medically maximize hair regrowth. And all clients receive a free consultation online with a hair restoration physician specialist with every prescription from a hair loss professional. With LaserCapMD, we can now work with you to deliver physician-prescribed COMPLETE MEDICAL MANAGEMENT of hair loss to the hair loss suffering masses, instead of just a tiny fraction. Contact us at: (855)-424-7774 Email: info@lasercap.com or visit lasercapmd.com to enroll in the ground-breaking LaserCapMD program.

The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

News Stories Coninued...

Robotic Hair Transplantation Will it be Profitable?

Restoration Robotics is a medical technology company that offers ARTAS System, a physician-assisted robotic system that identifies and dissects hair follicular units directly from the scalp and creates recipient implant sites. The company began in 2002, but did not begin commercial sales of its product in the U.S. until 2011. In October 2017, the company’s common stock was approved for listing on the NASDAQ Global Market and it began trading under the ticker symbol “HAIR.” The stock of Restoration Robotics increased 2.91% or $0.13 during the last trading session of 2017, reaching $4.6, but despite strong domestic and international sales, the company has never been profitable due to the high cost of research and development. Analysts are now keenly awaiting Restoration Robotics report earnings on February 20, 2018

Maybe Solution for Alopecia Patients San Francisco. 10/17 - UC San Francisco researchers have discovered that a certain type of regulatory T cell may trigger stem cells in the skin to promote healthy hair growth. Their study suggests that defects in Tregs could be responsible for alopecia areata, a common autoimmune disorder that causes hair loss, and could potentially play a role in other forms of baldness, including male pattern baldness, Alopecia areata is an autoimmune disease that interferes with hair follicle regeneration and causes patients to lose hair in patches from their scalp and eyebrows.

FDA Clears iRestore Laser Los Angeles, 10/17 - Freedom Laser Therapy has completed a clinical study for its FDA-cleared laser hair growth device, the iRestore Laser Hair Growth System. Results showed that 100 percent of men and women using the iRestore laser helmet showed hair growth, with an average increase in hair count of more than 43 percent. Freedom Laser Therapy is a Los Angeles-based company founded in 2003 by CEO Craig Nabat that develops and markets light and hair therapy products

Losing Hair I’ll drink to that Research released by Asda, a European pharmacy group, demonstrates the major impact hair loss has on men’s confidence and self-esteem. The study carried out among 2000 men in the UK revealed that more than a quarter of men under 35 state that hair loss has made them more prone to drinking or recreational drug use. And more than a third of respondents admit that hair loss is one of their biggest worries, while almost 38 per cent said it makes them feel depressed. However, a separate study by Florida’s Barry University which asked participants to rate men on things like physical attractiveness, aggression, appeasement and social maturity found that people perceive bald men as more honest, intelligent, and dominant.

Race to the Bottom FUE’s for only $4 per graft. So, says a recent online ad for hair transplantation. Good for the consumer? Sounds good, but FUE is a time-consuming, intricate procedure that requires specialist training. The International Society or Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS) is already concerned about bargain basement tourist/destination surgery and the influx of non-ISHRS accredited operators, and domestic price slashing may look like market dynamics at work, but is your head, your face, and your personality the place to seek a bargain?

Hair as Health Check Tokyo, 12/17 - Aderans, Yahoo Japan and Shimadzu Corp., have launched a joint study to determine whether scientific hair analysis can help diagnose and predict medical conditions. The research will be conducted by Riken, Japan’s largest comprehensive research institution renowned for high-quality research across diverse range of disciplines. This project a logical iniative for Aderans Co., whose management philosophy is “To promote overall wellness through our hair-related, beauty and health business. We aim to help clients worldwide attain physical and emotional wellbeing.” Since hair grows about 1/2” a month, a typical strand of hair 6” long would contain a year’s worth of personal data, information that the researchers plan to map and correlate with medical conditions. Hair analysis is already used for things like drug testing, but the research team hopes new insights into the development and composition of hair will allow then to develop technology that will assist in the early discovery of cancer, dementia and other diseases,

The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

Trichology Course Teaches About Blood Tests REGROWZ MADE WITH NATURAL INGREDIENTS

Are you one of the hundreds of trichologists/hair-loss specialists who want to learn more about blood tests and how this knowledge can expand your business base? The World Trichology Society’s Advanced Trichology Course, hosted by Dr. David Kingsley, PhD, WTS, will help you recognize ‘normal trichological’ blood test ranges and let you help better assist your patients/clients and even lead to new marketing opportunities. The course also discusses important medical conditions that may be a factor for the reason your clients/patients are losing their hair. In addition, Dr. Kingsley discusses specific case histories to help you understand how to implement the knowledge gleaned from this course into your trichology practice. The course includes: • Course Video in 4 parts that you can view on your computer or smartphone. • Downloadable workbooks (two for each part). • Option to email questions to our professors (worldtrichology@earthlink.net). • Certificate of completion. • Course can be taken in the comfort of your home or office from anywhere in the world. This course is for certified trichologists, physicians and other hair-loss specialists to learn about how to recommend and read blood test results trichologically. This will benefit the specialist’s patients/clients as well as his/her practice by providing an additional income stream.

Regrowz is a natural product made with 28 plant and herbal ingredients. Some of its key ingredients are: Citrus Limon Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Allium Cepa Coco Nucifera Oil Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract Murraya Koenigii Stem Extract

www.regrowz.us to ﬁnd out Visit us at www.regrowz.com more about all the ingredients and how they help hair regrowth Regrowz as featured in:

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For more information go to: http://worldtrichologysociety. org/advanced-trichology-course/ For more information visit www.regrowz.us or www. hairauthoritystore.com To place your orders, call 310 997 8484 or send us an email to info@regrowz.us or info@hairauthoritystore.com

The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

ASK THE EXPERT – PART 1

*This is the first of a series of Ask the Expert articles we plan to introduce as an ongoing

feature in The Authority. Just send us a question, or outline a problem, and we’ll find an “expert” to answer it. In this introductory contribution from Jimmy Toscano, he answers the familiar question, what went wrong. Was it the manufacture, or was it me?

IS IT THE MANUFACTURER OR IS IT YOU? By Jimmy (“The General”) Toscano

I’ve gotten quite a few calls from you about problems you’re having with custom units, bonding, and other issues. So, I’m going to use this space to try and answer some of the more pressing questions today. - Jimmy Who’s Really to Blame? A lot of the problems that you are having you may be bringing on yourselves. Some of them could well be the result of improper design of a hair system, the education you’re giving your client about their hair, the products you are using, etc. Base Materials - I know a lot of you design custom systems instead of using pre-custom systems. These are great, as long as you have educated yourself about custom design details. You need to familiarize yourself with the materials for the base. Make your selection based on the bonding method, the client’s lifestyle, and the density of the hair system. Also, make sure you know how much hair the base material you choose can support. Too often you design a base that can only support light density, though you want medium density. When the client wears the system, the system starts to fall apart. Knotting - Think about the type of knots you use in the system, and why you use that specific knot. For some reason, the manufacturers don’t seem to educate you on which types of knots and base materials to use. The person you’re dealing with in the custom order department has no idea about the client you’re designing the hair system for. Maybe he’s active, or maybe it’s an older client - man or woman -who requires a system for some specific need. Do you want the hair system to last for 30 days or do you want it to last for a year? If the company you are dealing with has not asked you these questions, why would you let them design your hair? You need to be knowledgeable about all facets of hair design. I’m not saying that the manufacturers are wrong, but they all need better educational classes on the design of hair systems. Bonding - I’m also still getting calls about bonding nightmares. If you had a client whose scalp looks like raw meat and is covered with open sores, would you bond the system back on? Of course not! Would you continue to use the same bond on his head? Maybe. Often, it’s not the adhesive that is causing the irritation; it can be the adhesive remover you are using. Although most good adhesive removers cost in excess of $150 a gallon, they are well worth the investment. A typical application of this type of remover costs about $0.30 a client. You’ll have no scalp irritation, a happy client, and most important - no lawsuits. Your clients are

putting their trust in you to make them look good, but also not to do them harm. Research the bonds and adhesive removers you use and make sure you have an MSD sheet for each one. If an MSD sheet isn’t available on any product - DON’T USE IT! Don’t get stuck in a rut and use the same bonding product on every client. Try some of the newer co-polymer bonds. Remember -no one adhesive is good for every client. Look for the bond that puts safety first. Lace - Having any problems with the hair coming out of the front of a lace system? Do you keep returning systems because of this problem? Have you told your client that their lace system is going to last for a year, only to have the hair fall out shortly after you install it? Is it the manufacturer or is it you? Is your client taping the system down and removing it at night or are you bonding the lace system down and having your technicians remove it? If you are selling a lace system to a daily-wear client, you must educate them on the proper removal of the lace tape in the front of the system. You should give no guarantees about the life of this type of system. You must stress that this is a very delicate system, but with the proper care, it could last 6-8 months. Remember, the knotting on a lace system is very different from the knotting on any other system. That’s why it is so undetectable. Adhesive Remover - If the system is bonded, no matter how loose the system may seem to be on the client’s head when they return for service, you must first spray adhesive remover down through the hair onto the lace and wait 5 minutes before lifting the front of the system up. If you don’t use this process and you just pull the system off the client’s head, you’re going to lose hair out of the front hairline. You may not notice the difference in the first few services, but you will in the next few services. This is not a manufacturer’s problem; it’s yours. Again, keep in mind that the knots are different in the lace. Lace Cleaning Gun - When you’re cleaning the systems, do you use a lace cleaning gun? If not, are you scraping the adhesive off the base with some type of implement? If you are, you’re just asking for problems. It is virtually impossible to get all of the adhesive out of the system without a lace cleaning gun. The “scraping” method is a great way to pull hair out of the system. Remember when the manufacturer designs the system; the density in the front is light to make it look realistic. If you lose 20-25 hairs every time you service the client, in 4 services, you’ve lost 80-100 hairs. NHA

The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

Haunting is for Halloween By Coco Britt As we all know, technology continues to gain momentum as the days go by. With the increasing number of cosmetologists moving into the hair restoration industry, we as trained technicians, need to stay current about today’s market. As a certified hair restoration technician, myself, I come into contact with many men and women who are searching for answers to hair loss concerns that haunt them constantly. Many of these clients have seen a doctor or a dermatologist only to leave the office feeling even more frustrated than before. They have not received satisfactory answers to their hair loss concerns and they continue their daily search for answers that will provide peace of mind and stop them being haunted by their hair loss. As medical research and new technologies continue to offer new ways of providing beneficial solutions to our clients, one of the biggest tools available to us today is Trichology. Trichology not only provides peace of mind for our clients, but it also provides a documented beneficial solution and a gateway of opportunity for the salon. How many of you technicians have experienced the dreaded question, “Why is my hair falling out” from a client? Wouldn’t it be spectacular to be able to sit with your client and explain what can cause hair loss and how the follicle works? Do you know how to explain why hair minimizes and how that leads the hair-to-scalp ratio to change? Just image being educated about what you are seeing when a client asks you “Why is my head itching all the time?” You need to have the answers. You need to have the education along with the professional verbiage to provide the answers the clients are desperately searching for. Often, I tell a client “Your search ends here, I can help you and will educate you on your concerns.” At that moment, I literally see the client take a deep breath as if they are no longer drowning in worry about their hair loss concerns. You see, I have provided answers to questions that no one else has. It occurred to me one day that my clients were actually more interested in answers than a solution. Amazingly enough, the solutions become secondary while the search for answers became even more haunting. Clients could not trust in a solution until they had all the answers. That’s when I chose to stay up to date with the market, and became a Certified Trichology Specialist. Not only did I want answers for my clients but I also wanted specialist

knowledge so I could understand and articulate what was taking place with my client’s hair loss. Am I a doctor or dermatologist, of course not! I do however, have the education to break down the process of the scalp and hair and what can and will stop hair from growing correctly. Hair cannot grow to its full potential in a compromised or unhealthy environment. This is no different from your lungs or heart. When the body is healthy, organs work to full potential. When the body is compromised, organs work inconsistently. The hair follicle is an organ and when it cannot perform efficiently, it results in dull, lifeless and yes, miniaturized hair. That’s why your clients deserve serious answers. Answers about what caused it, what are their options, where do they go from here… and can you really help me? I don’t want to simply put a bandage on my client’s problems. I want to provide understanding, reasons, and beneficial solutions that carry documented results. As technicians in hair restoration, it is our responsibility to carry out due diligence, get educated and help our clients get real answers to their hair loss problems. They trust in your every word and put their confidence and image in your hands. No

“Trichology not only provides peace of mind for our clients, but it also provides a documented beneficial solution and a gateway of opportunity for the salon.” client wants to look into a mirror that haunts them constantly with reflections showing their hair loss. Become part of the biggest growing technology today, “Trichology.” Band together with all of us technicians and do what we should all be doing by providing educated answers that supply peace of mind and greater confidence for our clients. In today’s market, we cannot afford to be left behind. Staying informed is vital to the success of your client’s outcome. My personal advice: Don’t allow clients to continue to be haunted; haunting is for Halloween! Stay up with technology and stay a step ahead, be informed, educated and know what you’re going to say to provide peace of mind. Be the advocate that ends the search for answers by providing your clients with professional verbiage and knowledge. Your clients will forever be grateful. About Coco - I was born and raised in Beautiful California. I started my own hair salon at the age of 25 and gradually sold it to move on to bigger and better things. That is when I started my Hair Restoration Career. I have been working for Graff Hair Technology for 11 years where I started off as a technician and was promoted to General Manager. During my employment with Graff I finished my Bachelor of Science in Psychology, Certifications in Conversational Hypnosis, Clinical Hypnotherapy and Trichology. I recently joined the Head First Team as an Educator. Over 11 years of continuing education I have gained multiple certifications within the Hair Restoration industry which assists me in providing the best possible solutions for every client in need. NHA

Danger Ahead

The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

The need for natural and sustainable ingredients in the personal care industry The market for ingredients and other materials in personal care products and cosmetics has seen tremendous growth in last 3–5 years. Key elements driving the adoption of these new and innovative materials are increased consumer concern about biocompatibility and the naturalness of ingredients. This trend is fueled by the public’s awareness of toxicity and the negative impact of synthetic materials such as parabens, SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate), or aluminum salts to name a few.

African American Women at Risk - Women of color have higher levels of beauty-product-related chemicals in their bodies compared to white women, according to a commentary published in the American Journal of Obstetrics and Gynecology. Research by Ami R. Zota, ScD, MS. Bhavna Shamasunder, PhD, MES, revealed that even small exposures to suspected toxic chemicals can lead to health problems, such as premature reproductive development in young girls, neurodevelopmental issues and cancer. The following are extracts from the AJOG report: Introduction- “African American consumers purchase 9 times more ethnic hair and beauty products than other groups and disproportionately purchase hair relaxers and straighteners. Latinos are the fastest growing ethnic beauty market segment, and Asian Americans spend 70% more than the national average on skin care products.” Hair Relaxers and Straighteners – “Compared with white women, African American and African Caribbean women are more likely to use a greater number and variety of hair products and to have their hair chemically or professionally treated. Use of these products often begins at an early age; in a survey of 201 African American girls, almost one-half of the parents/guardians reported the first application of chemical relaxers to their child’s hair between the ages of 4 and 8 years. The Health Risks – “Hair products used by African American women are more likely to contain placenta (a potential source of estrogen hormones) and industrial chemicals, such as parabens, that affect estrogenic pathways. Premature reproductive development, such as breast budding,

was documented in African American girls exposed to estrogen- or placenta-containing hair products. Use of ethnic hair products among African American women has been associated with increased risk of earlier menarche and uterine fibroid tumors. It has also been proposed as a plausible risk factor for excess premenopausal breast cancer risk that has been observed among African American women.” The Psychological Pressure – “Hair valuations of “good” (straighter/longer) and “bad” (tightly coiled/ kinky) hair can place burdens on African American women to change their hair texture. African American women experience more hair-related anxiety and are twice as likely than white women to experience social pressure at work to straighten their hair. For example, the US army historically banned several hairstyles traditionally used by African American women, such as twists and multiple braids, in favor of styles that encouraged straightening or other practices to change hair texture.” Source: AJOG Report: “The environmental injustice of beauty: framing chemical exposures from beauty products as a health disparities concern.” Separate research carried out among more than 4,000 women by Rutgers School of Public Health and Rutgers Cancer Institute of New Jersey indicated that the use of dark brown or black hair dyes by black women was tied to a 51 percent greater risk of breast cancer. “Our findings do not suggest that simply using hair dyes, relaxers or both will cause a woman to get breast cancer,” cautioned study lead author Adana Llanos, adding, “The reality is that we regularly encounter a variety of harmful exposures, which we have no control over.” What about men? Well, the average man uses five to seven personal care products and cosmetics, while the average woman uses around 9 to 12 (17, if she’s a teenager). But the need for safer products is still a priority. The Hair Authority will report on the risks and solutions in the men’s market in a future edition. NHA

The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

BEST HAIR TIPS FOR GIRLS WITH NATURAL CURLS International Stylist and Curl Master Gets Real About Real Hair People with wavy or curly hair are always looking for new products, tips and tricks to lock in their desired look. Whether they want to blow it straight, create looser curls or maximize their tighter coils, Maya Smith, Celebrity Hair Stylist, salon owner and creator of The Doux, the “Indie” haircare line, is truly the master. Here she shares her best tips for girls with curls who want to revel in their natural hair and create a style they love. The advice given in this article is valuable to men and women with naturally growing hair, hair additions or a combination of both. Understand the battle between oil and moisture. The first thing people must understand is that there are opposite things going on at the same time. “Due to the shape of curly haired strands, the hair tends to be under moisturized. On the other hand, the curly haired scalp can get very oily. Managing these opposite demands is the struggle of girls who wish to keep their curls. The key here is knowing how best to address both,” explains Maya who led the movement for women to transition from relaxers to natural curls. Be gentle when washing curly hair. According to Maya, kinky, thick, coiled textures tend to appear “tough” and strong enough to withstand heavy manipulation. “In my experience, these hair types are actually the most delicate, and should be handled with care, she recommends.”

ward motion helps prevent further tangling, and allows the hair shaft to swell and the curl pattern to fully rebound.” For those with extremely thick hair, Maya suggests separating hair into 4 sections prior to wetting the hair for increased manageability. Once the shampoo is applied, Maya recommends light manipulation at the scalp, going from the crown of the head to the nape of the neck. “Squishing” the hair up toward the scalp is a no-no. “Shampooing this way can cause unforgivable tangling and matting. I recommend repeating the shampooing process at least once.” Step Three: Condition and comb through like a pro. If your scalp was properly shampooed, conditioning is easy. “This time, you’re focusing on your thirsty ends first, working upward toward the scalp. Gently detangle with a wide-toothed comb or detangling brush (our favorite is Felicia Leatherwood’s “Brush with the Best” detangling brush) before rinsing, starting at the ends, working up toward to the roots. Remember to rinse with cool water which snaps cuticles shut, locks in moisture, makes your hair shinier and reduces frizz.”

Step One: Pick your products wisely. Maya applied over 2 decades of research and development based on working knowledge of hair texture and listening to what people wanted before creating her own Moisturizing Shampoo and Moisturizing Conditioner as the one-two step that delivers both deep cleaning plus exceptional nourishment necessary for styling

When it comes to “co-washing” or “conditioner washing” Maya equates the popular trend to washing your clothes with fabric softener. “In my experience, co-washing causes build-up on the hair, coating the cuticle and impairing the hair’s natural ability to absorb water. Oils, waxes, and product residue harden on the hair shaft, making it more brittle and less porous over time. When the hair can no longer effectively absorb water, the elasticity of the hair is compromised, leaving the hair “crunchy” and stiff, where it is more likely to break. The result is hair that feels dry and brittle, no matter what product you use to moisturize it,” explains Maya.

Step Two: Prep for shampoo. Maya’s professional instructions for curl mastery begins with rinsing hair thoroughly with water for a minimum of 30 seconds. “This helps to eliminate any water-soluble product buildup, such as hair gel or heat protectant. It also helps you save shampoo! Assuming you’re shampooing in the shower, letting the water run over the hair in a down-

One of the things Maya Smith and her team of stylists are known for is their ability to restore hundreds of their clients’ curls, simply by getting them to trade in the co-wash for a gentle, pH-balanced moisturizing shampoo that properly cleanses hair of product residue. “Once you have the hair thoroughly clean it “drinks” up the necessary amount of moisture, and returns to its natural softness,” Maya clarifies.

The International Hair Authority Winter 2017

Avoid alcohol and kick the crunch to the curb. Styling products high in alcohol give curls a crunchy feel. They suck up every last bit of moisture. Hair spray tends to contain the most alcohol, while gels, mousses and anything that provides hold or lift come in second. “I recommend water-soluble gels that don’t feel sticky on your skin, and aerated mousses or foams that resemble beaten egg whites, to give hair fullness, control, and non-brittle curls,” Maya says. Blow-Dry with a diffuser or hooded dryer. Maya’s first choice for curly styles is to air dry. “If you don’t have the time to air dry then dry with a diffuser or hooded dryer on a low heat setting. A regular blow dryer nozzle disrupts the curl pattern and focuses hot air on one small section at a time while a diffuser, dries curls evenly for a full, uniform look,” she explains. Maya recommends always applying a heat-protecting product, then flipping your head upside down using a diffuser at the roots and mid-length making sure to dry the area completely to lock in volume. “It’s important to leave the ends for last, and leave them only semi-dry. Air drying the ends is your best option.”

Care for the curls you were born with! About Maya Smith: Maya Smith is an International Master Stylist and Founder of The Doux Salon and haircare linet. With over two decades of styling experience Maya dedicated two decades to cracking the code on curl care, maintenance and expert styling. When it comes to caring for one’s natural hair and styling it, Maya is the best there is. While still in high school, Maya got her hair cutting license and graduated from beauty school. Soon after graduating high school, Maya began following her passion and worked as an assistant for celebrity stylist Tracy Johnson. She learned from Johnson and progressed as a hair stylist for celebrities and entertainers. Years later the military wife would relocate to Germany, where Maya opened up her first salon The HoneyComb, a mecca for textured hair care for women from all over Europe, The UK, and as far as Africa. Maya’s unique system of textured hair styling sparked the development of The DOUX® haircare products, first launched overseas, and distributed throughout Germany, France, Italy, and the Netherlands.

Hair Loss & Growth Treatment Market Clinical Review 2017 to 2022 Hair Loss & Growth Treatment Market Professional Survey Report 2017 presents an in-depth assessment of the Hair Loss & Growth Treatment market, including enabling technologies, key trends, market drivers, challenges, standardization, regulatory landscape, deployment models, operator case studies, opportunities, future roadmap, value chain, ecosystem player profiles and strategies. The report also presents forecasts for Hair Loss & Growth Treatment investments from 2017 till 2022. Scope of Hair Loss & Growth Treatment: Hair Loss & Growth Treatment Market report evaluates the growth rate and the market value based on market dynamics, growth inducing factors. The complete knowledge is based on latest industry news, opportunities, trends. The report contains a comprehensive market analysis and vendor landscape in addition to a SWOT analysis of the key vendors Hair Loss & Growth Treatment Market highlights following key factors: •A complete background analysis of Hair Loss & Growth Treatment Systems industry, which includes an assessment of the parental market. •Emerging trends by segments and regional markets. •Significant changes in market dynamics & market overview. •Market breakdown up to the second or third level. •Market shares and approaches of key players in Hair Loss & Growth Treatment market. •Current and predictable size of Hair Loss & Growth Treatment market from the perspective of both value and volume. •Reporting and estimation of recent industry developments. •References to companies for establishment their position in the market With over 170 tables and figures examining the Hair Loss & Growth Treatment market, the report gives you a visual, one-stop breakdown of the leading products, submarkets and market leader’s market revenue forecasts as well as analysis to 2022.

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