IHA Fall 2020

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MEDICAL

MARKETING Protective Hairstyls Pretty shouldn’t hurt Pg. 17

New CBD Study Results promising Pg. 26

CORPORATE

REGULATORY

More Than a Club Much more…

Staying Safe

Pg. 4

Pg.32

International Hair Authority Volume 24 No 85

The Profesional Publication of Hair Replacement & Restoration

Tips from PBA TM

Fall 2020

CBD In Your Future? Topicals not cocktails A recent study carried out at a ‘Hair and Scalp’ center in Clearwater Florida reveals that topical CBD formulation has superior results to finasteride and comparable results to 5% minoxidil once-daily foam. Since the CBD works through novel mechanisms entirely different from finasteride and minoxidil, it can be used in conjunction with these current drugs and would be expected to have synergistic effects. Hair counts in the temporal area increased an average of 74.1% in men and 55.2% in women. In the vertex area the hair counts increased an average of 120.1% for men, and 64.9% for women. In general men did slightly better than women, and the vertex area did better than the temporal areas. On average there was 93.5% increase in nonvellus hair after six months of once-daily use. All subjects had some regrowth.

ISHRS 2020 World Congress Goes Virtual A recent study carried out at a ‘Hair and Scalp’ center in Clearwater Florida Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, The International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS) moved their 2020 World Congress online. Originally planned for Panama, the virtual congress featured eight live general sessions, nine live focused sessions with follow-up “Fireside Chats,” plus more than 60 on-demand presentations and live discussion groups. The event also included a virtual exhibit hall and awards ceremony.

New Laser Cap Offers Red and Blue Light

Claims to stimulate hair growth and kill bacteria ZeroT is a wireless cap that uses low-level light technology (LLLT) in both red light (650nm) and blue light (405nm) wavelengths to promote non-invasive hair treatment. Red light stimulates cell growth and microcirculation in the hair follicles, while blue light rids the scalp’s surface of bacteria, viruses and unwanted germs that can cause irritation or oil build-up. CEO, Taekyung Oh is seeking investors for this project through Indiegogo crowdfunding.

Bauman Medical Introduces “Fin.481” Bauman Medical has reformulated its compounded finasteride treatment, FinPlus as “Fin.481”, an oral treatment to help men and postmenopausal women in the medical management of hair loss. It still contains 1.25mg of pharmacy-compounded finasteride but adds a blend of 481mg of hair-healthy nutrients designed to help protect and support hair follicle function.

Don’t Overlook the African Market

Africa is one of the fastest growing regions in the cosmetics industry. Increased concerns about health and wellness together with a growing middle class and technological innovation are driving this development. According to a 2018 Euromonitor report, the African cosmetics market has expanded 8-10% year-on-year on average, versus 4% globally. Hair care is following this trend and hair replacement companies are now paying close attention to the marketing opportunity.


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Editorial Winners and losers – I have been surprised and delighted to learn that many businesses are enjoying success and even expanding their business despite the challenges of coronavirus. After chatting with many of them, the thing that sets them apart is an optimistic and constructive attitude which drives them to keep aggressively promoting their services and participating in social media. One example is PAI Medical Group whom we interviewed and planned to share in this issue, but Pierre Amelotte and Fred Corsale were so upbeat that we could not fit everything into the space available and will have to carry them over to our bumper Holiday Issue!

Tough times, enduring friendships - Relationships

established during difficult times are the ones that last. When you are there for your customers and work with them to create new solutions, those are the clients who will be with you for life. It reminds me of the friendships formed on vacation. So often we promise to stay in touch, but after we have shared photographs, the phone calls cease, and the friendship slips away. Contrast that with the people who were with you during hard times and I will bet those are the friends who remain important to you. In 2001, I hosted a tour of hair factories in Asia and the horror of 9/11 struck on our last day in Bangkok. We all made it home safely, but I can remember the names of everyone on that trip, and I know they can too. How does this translate into behavior in today’s difficult marketplace? Well, for businesses that cater to patients suffering from hair loss due to chemotherapy, it may be possible to keep your business open as a necessary medical service. The same might be true for studios that help people suffering from trichotillomania, but I’m not so sure about that one. But even if you are forced to remain closed, you can still have hair delivered direct to your clients pre-cut and pre-styled by at least one distributor. No matter what, you should maintain a dialogue with your clients and show that you understand their problems. You are in this together. If these clients have been sharing their concerns with you, it is probable that they will return to your studio after COVID-19 has passed.

Be present – Somebody shared an astonishing statistic with

me the other day. It appears that a goldfish has an attention span of nine seconds, while a typical human maintains attention for only seven! So, if you’re trying to promote a service or sell a product, make sure your message is repeated often and remains visible!

Hair Authority Fall 2020 3

Benefits for Suscribers – We have just completed a survey

among our subscribers to find out what tools and services would be most valuable to their business. As a result, here are some features we are now building into the website:

Calendar – A summary of upcoming webinars, conferences and workshops for hair loss professionals. Subscribers can also post events that they plan to host themselves.

“Coffee Break” - An informal forum or chat room where sub-

scribers can exchange information and socialize. It will include a bulletin board to post classified ads and messages about products & services or items for sale. Visitors can also request information or make suggestions for future articles and interviews. Readers who are not yet active subscribers, can subscribe online by going to: https://hairauthority.com/subscription-section/

Trichology Authority – Men and women are more con-

cerned about their health that ever before. This carries over into hair care. For cosmetologists and even dermatologists, this means that the focus is shifting from cosmetic results to wellness and lifestyle. Since Trichology is perceived as the, “Bridge between cosmetology and dermatology,” the Hair Authority has partnered with the World Trichology Society to share information about this para-medical science of the hair, hair loss and associated scalp problems. The word “trichology” comes from the Greek word, ‘Trikhos’, meaning ‘hair’, and was first conceived as a specialty branch of study in Britain in the late 19th century. It then became a specific para-medical discipline in 1902. Visit our new trichology webpage at https://hairauthority.com/trichology/. Stay safe, stay positive, be happy!

Chris Webb


4 Hair Authority Fall 2020

More Than Hair More Than a Club HairClub moved into its sleek new corporate headquarters in 2018, proud of its past achievements and confident about the future. Hair Authority was present at the opening ceremony and was struck by the furnishings and interior design that had been created with the comfort and efficiency of the staff as the top priority. We noted a “relaxation room” with a massage chair as well as informal meeting alcoves where people could huddle and exchange opinions or information. Then Covid struck. Nine months later, the pandemic was still an active threat and we wondered how this employee-centric company was responding. To find out, the Authority met with Hair Club CEO, Mike Nassar.

Place to chat

Place to wait Place to relax Hair Authority: Mike, when you first heard about COVID 19 and realized that this was going to be a serious threat, what was your first reaction?

Mike Nassar: It was March 20th when we learned that

some jurisdictions were discussing the closure of businesses like ours. So, we got together with our legal department and key executives and decided that for the safety of everyone involved that we would close our Centers effective March 21st. And that’s what we did. We literally closed all our corporate Centers effective that day with the expectation that we’d remain closed through the end of the month. Obviously, that turned into April and then carried on into May, though some centers in California weren’t able to open until June and July.

Hair Authority: Your Centers are now open again. How

did you take care of the staff during this difficult time so you would be ready to jump-start business when you got the allclear?

Mike Nassar: Not knowing how long the closings were

going to be, we promised the staff who didn’t have a place to work that they would still be able to get paid using their banked time-off. If they didn’t already have banked time off available, they could go into a negative paid time-off situation and still get paid. We were looking to make sure that everyone was taken care of. Even though a hundred plus corporate locations were closed across the US and Canada, plus our location in London, we still had upwards of 450 people


Hair Authority Fall 2020 5 working for us from home and in various offices where buildings were accessible. The other thing that is important and will be part of our future moving forward is the value of video support. In April and May we conducted hundreds of consultations, all of them virtual. We talked with people who were at home, locked down by Covid, who still reached out to us. We were able to perform upwards of 700 consultations in each of those months via Microsoft teams, Zoom, WhatsApp, Facebook Messenger, the works.

We also supplied our clients with hair systems, tape, adhesives, products & whatever they could possibly need. We were able to service our hair therapy customers by mailing out monthly kits for their at-home regimens. Here at corporate, we had all hands-on deck making and packing boxes. We were shipping upwards of 2000 kits per month to our customers’ homes.

Hair Authority: Clearly this was a big jolt to your business model that forced you to do things differently. What will never be the same again?

Mike Nassar: The idea that the salon is the only place that

someone can experience HairClub is out the window. Our goal now is to be able to service our customers and provide the ultimate HairClub experience not just in our physical locations, but also at home… and maybe in the future, even at neighborhood salons that have a Hair Club presence in them. That’s really going to be what we’re focusing on; being able to deliver that experience regardless of location or facility.

Photo, Jud Makrill

Hair Authority: People are finally beginning to appreciate

the value of telemedicine. Sometimes it seems Zoom meetings are more intimate than the consultation room. Mike Nassar: Sure. It’s like the conversation we’re having now. You and I could be at different ends of the country and still be able to have a meaningful, compelling conversation.

Hair Authority: What happened to your service clients during this time?

Mike Nassar: Obviously our clients, like everyone else

The other thing that I think is going to be a massive change for us is something you mentioned earlier, that telemedicine type of consultation. There’s a large percentage of people who want to learn more about what we do, but would prefer to have an online conversation versus making the trek into a Center to talk to a stranger? I think this will allow us to break the ice with folks who don’t really know what our industry can do for them and I think this is a good way to start. So, the conversation can start eye-to-eye with someone, via technology and then invite them to come in and see somebody in person now that they’ve learned what we can do to help them. Hair Authority: We’ve talked about caring for your clients’ hair, but, of course, you’re also caring for their safety. HairClub is now “Verified Clean.” What does that mean?

across the world, were affected by this. Most of our clients are accustomed to coming into our Centers regularly for services. We’re in a high-touch business with personal service available at every one of our locations and we obviously couldn’t service those customers while we were closed. We also weren’t keen on having our staff visit customers’ homes or to meet customers in pre-arranged locations, even though there were many requests to do that. We didn’t want to be in a situation where we’d be putting anyone at risk. So, we created an outreach program with our clients via phone and then set up them up with customized video services. We probably had 10 to 20 people from day one helping clients with their hair by video. This was a full-time job for them.

Keeping Staff Safe


6 Hair Authority Fall 2020 Mike Nassar: At the beginning of the shutdown, we contracted with a service that would go in and sanitize all our centers. Even though we thought the initial closure would only be for approximately 10 days, we still planned to sanitize all the centers on a regular basis, including our corporate office. That was the first step. Later, as we started seeing jurisdictions open back up and our Centers getting lined up to reopen, we really began researching and acquiring personal protective equipment for every single service and for every single employee. We moved easily five or six truckloads of personal protective equipment from Florida to our 120 locations. We supplied every location in the system, including our franchise locations, with personal protective equipment. For every client service visit, our stylists have a surgical mask, a face shield, a disposable cape and gloves. And their studio or styling room is sanitized before and after every service.

Keeping Clients Safe

Clients get the same attention. We provide personal protective equipment to every client in the form of a surgical mask as well as taking their temperature and we have them sign off on a release the minute they come in. I don’t want to jinx anything, but I’m very happy to say that we’ve had no issues since we started reopening centers back on April 24th.

Hair Authority: Mike, on a personal level, how has this

lives. They need us as an industry to be there for them because it’s more than just their hair looking good, it’s the way they see themselves. The way people see themselves in this day and age has changed. People need to look good and healthy. There are a lot more people having this conversation in real life today, whether it’s for school, for work or for happy hours with family members and friends. How they look on camera is important, and I think that’s what being associated with HairClub means to them. It’s reassuring in situations like this. We have clients who reach out and say things like, “I need somebody to help me with the service because I have an important Zoom call tomorrow.” That really hit home for me. The other thing I think deeply about is our responsibility to the people who make our business possible. The people who actually give me a job. Not only do we have almost 1200 employees in the system that make a living here, but we are also supporting a number of families through that employment. I tried to reach out to our employees regularly via email. During this crisis, we have been sending out a message almost daily through the different systems we have here to keep everybody apprised of what was going on. As you might expect, there were a number of employees that didn’t feel comfortable coming back to work because of the fear of infection or carrying COVID back home to elderly parents or loved ones. And we respected that and gave everybody an opportunity to work through this until they were comfortable. Some folks have chosen to leave and not be in this industry at this time, and that’s fine too. The doors are open for them to come back to us. I think it’s our responsibility as leaders to connect with every employee and understand their circumstances and motivation.

experience affected you? Has it changed your relationships with people, the way you see the business, or the way you see the world?

Hair Authority: Would you say that 2020 was the year

Mike Nassar: In the beginning, obviously we were nervous.

Mike Nassar: We are always working towards becoming

I don’t think any of us could have predicted the impact this would have on business or the world in general. When we decided to close, we were looking at reopening within 10 days. Who would’ve known it would take some locations upwards of five to six months before they could re-open.

Throughout this time the thing that struck me most was the two-way relationship we had with our customers; we like to call them members. It showed in the conversations we were having with them. We saw that HairClub was something they really needed. It wasn’t just a novelty. It wasn’t just an image thing or a store they visited. This was part of their

that HairClub stopped being a just service and became a real club?

being a club in a real and positive way. The “Club” thing had a kind of negative connotation in the past as if it was some kind of exclusive, secret thing that you had to find your way into. We want Hair Club to be seen as a place where you belong and that’s welcoming. A special place where we’ll take care of you and provide an experience that anybody can get if and when they choose to. I consider our business to be very similar to a health club or weight loss center, that sort of thing. HairClub is our name and it’s going to be our name forever. It really isn’t something that we should be shy about. We want people to be attracted to the club just like our hashtag #LovetheClub says.


Hair Authority Fall 2020 7 Hair Authority: It’s all of those things. It’s a club for the en-

hancement and maintenance of one of the most visible signs of youth and vitality.

Mike Nassar: I would agree with that. And I think it’s less

Photo by Luke Southern

about customer satisfaction; it’s more about customer experience. If you want to feel better, come to HairClub. If you want to look better, come to HairClub. This is what we want to help people do. We want to give back to society in this personal niche arena.

Hair Authority: You’ve navigated this crisis successfully and are coming out of it motivated and closer to your staff. I don’t

want to say good has come out of the pandemic because that’s the wrong perspective, but it’s certainly been a learning experience. What advice would you give to other business owners?

Mike Nassar: Continue to look at the cup as half full versus half empty.

This industry is needed. Our services are needed and wanted. We are not an afterthought. From a number’s perspective, over 90% of our customers have returned post COVID. There are more people coming in for consultations now than there have been in the last two to three years. There is a need for the services we offer.

We’ve got to stop worrying about a shrinking market and start focusing on raising the bar and welcoming people to a solution that they may not yet be aware of. IHA

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Hair Authority Fall 2020 9


10 Hair Authority Fall 2020

Look Right, Feel Right Zooming with Confidence Abra McFeld is a cosmetologist and trained trichologist. She is a serial entrepreneur with a focus on lifestyle, beauty and health. Abra has run her own hair loss clinic for seven years and recently launched a hair care brand called “Abracadabra Hair and Healing” that targets African Americans who experience breakage and hair loss. The Hair Authority scheduled an online meeting with Abra McField, and, like many other homebound businesses, we enjoyed a comfortable and informal Zoom discussion.

The hair replacement Hair Authority: Abra, thank you for joining us online today. For someone working from home, you’re looking remarkably smart and professional. Abra: Thank you. I don’t spend a whole lot of time preparing for things. I know most people spend a whole bunch of time getting ready, but I’m pretty organic. I like to just be natural. However, I do use a backdrop and special lighting, because I want to look professional. I’m in my office right now and it’s pretty big, but it’s not always tidy. As far as my hair goes, I have naturally curly hair which I love, and I typically wear a nice white lab coat. I did put on a little makeup this morning, not too much, and I was ready. Hair Authority: If you were coaching someone for a Zoom meeting, what would you tell them? Abra: If it’s a professional zoom meeting, you want to make sure that your face is nicely groomed, very clean. You want moisture on it, so it looks hydrated. As far as your

hair is concerned, Zoom is all about the front view. If you’re confident with your facial shape and features, you can always do a sleek ponytail. Most women have something to say about their head or their face shape, so getting that front view right is very important. Emphasize your eyes and make sure your lips are groomed or glossy. Don’t look dull. You want to brighten yourself up because cameras at home do not always have the best lighting. Hair Authority: We can see two spotlights behind you that are highlighting your cheekbones. Is this deliberate? Abra Definitely. Hair Authority: So, it’s worth investing in special lighting? Abra: It makes all the difference in the world. I used to have only one light, but I recently purchased two. You can see the difference. Hair Authority: Do you use cold white light, or go for a warm indoor look? Abra: I like white lighting. I have olive undertones, so I need something bright to bring out my glow. Hair Authority: What about overhead lighting? It can sometimes create shadows under the eyes. Abra: It’s not ideal to have light directly above your head or even on the side because it kind of blinds you. I recommend having the light in front, behind the camera.


Hair Authority Fall 2020 11 Hair Authority: That’s especially important for people who have thinning hair; overhead lighting is going to reflect off their scalp. Abra: Any type of light overhead light exposes the top of your head, and unfortunately, that’s where most of us start to thin. Hair Authority: Would you recommend a special conditioner to make your hair look glossy for the camera? Abra: Absolutely. I have a hair growth conditioner, Abracadabra Hair Growth Therapy, that has minerals and nutrients to bring out the glow and moisturize my hair. Hair Authority: For today’s Zoom presentation, you chose a gray backdrop. A neutral screen like this will work with any outfit and not fight your hair color or makeup. But it’s very easy for people to forget that backdrop behind them and end up looking washed out, or just plain unattractive.

Abra: Actually, I do not, but I do think that’s a great idea, especially if you have an early morning, appointment! Hair Authority: Tell us about your products. Abra: My collection is called Abracadabra Hair Growth Therapy. it consists of a multi-therapeutic system. Sometimes when we are trying to find hair loss solutions, we only get one product: a shampoo, or a topical. Or we may take a vitamin. The important thing about my products is I created a system where you’re getting support both internally and externally. I have been working on the product for a year and a half now and we’ve gotten great results. Our hair growth supplements have a vitamin component, which is like a total nutrient, but we also have organic and natural DHT inhibitors to help you get the proper nutrients, oxygen and blood flow to the follicle to help manage your hair loss and prevent it from getting worse. Hair Authority: Are you a member of the World Trichology Society or the International Association of Trichologists?

Abra: I always go with a neutral color; white or gray. You can never go wrong. If you like to wear warm colors, you could get away with a backdrop in red, orange, or yellow. But if you’re wearing, conservative colors, stick with black, gray or white.

Abra: I’ve been so focused on my product line and my hair loss clinic that I haven’t been able to dive into those organizations yet. I am a member of the American Medical Association, but I haven’t had a chance to really network with other trichologist except for the United States Psychology Institute, which is where I received my certification.

Hair Authority: A lot of people now work with two computer monitors. If they turn to share one of their screens, other Zoom guests will be looking at their head from the side. Maybe you should caution people to think about their profile as well when they are styling their hair.

Hair Authority: Take a look at the trichology section on our Hair Authority website. It can connect you to other specialists and may be a useful resource for you.

Abra: Exactly. Don’t miss the side or even the back of your hair. Hair Authority: What equipment would you recommend if people want to look their best? Abra: Your computer and the quality of your pictures is everything. You have to stay up with the latest technology. Your camera has to be optimum; your lighting has to be optimum. Most people probably don’t think about this, but if you’re going to be on a Zoom call, your comfort also plays a role. So, the chair that you are sitting in is important. When you feel good, that projects on the screen. Hair Authority: What about your voice? An opera singer will practice singing up and down the scale before coming on stage. And telemarketing people are sometimes told to stand up because when you stand your voice is more dynamic. Do you do any voice prep before you come on camera.

Abra: I will certainly follow up. I would like to get in touch with my peers Hair Authority: Let’s talk about the special needs of African Americans. This market spends more on haircare than any other consumer group. But, as Michelle Obama points out, you don’t have to buy lots of expensive products in order to have straight, glossy hair. You can-and should-celebrate your natural hair. Abra: We are conditioned from a very young age to believe that we are not accepted when it comes to our curly hair. We feel like we have to conform to what society thinks is sophisticated and Cont’d Pg 13


12 Hair Authority Fall 2020

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Hair Authority Fall 2020 13 attractive. What’s really sad is, many women are 30, 25, 40 years old and still have no idea of what their natural hair is really like. They know nothing about it. But, as you say, things are shifting. I feel more African American women are now embracing and accepting the natural essence of who they are. I work with a ton of women and I encourage them to grow their hair longer than it’s ever been before in the African American community. I’m helping them transition to natural hair and take a break from the relaxers we’ve all used to straighten our hair. When we were children, our parents all used those hair-straightening chemicals and we inherited the habit. We didn’t know we had a choice. So, now I’m helping African American women to grow their hair longer and enjoy who they really are. We have educational sessions and tutorials that explain all the things you can do with your hair. It’s bittersweet. On the one hand, you may be 35 or 40 years old still have no idea who you are. But the sweet side is, it’s never too late. It’s been a real joy to see women say, I am ready to be me. I’m going to rejoice in my natural looks, not someone else’s idea of beauty. Hair Authority: In California where the Hair Authority is based, there is a law prohibiting discrimination based on hair styles. Abra: Not accepting yourself is a huge mental strain. It affects you psychologically. I want to take women somewhere they’ve never been before and help elevate their spirit. It’s a healing process. IHA

Taking Action to Oppose Deregulation in Michigan! In its PBA Weekly Connection, the Professional Beauty Association is urging beauty and hair care professionals to preserve and protect standards by defending local education and certification requirements. This legislation disregards health and safety in this time of a global pandemic and will further the economic crisis for licensed beauty professionals in Michigan. Governor Whitmer has indicated that she believes that the beauty industry is licensed for a reason. There are many safety and health reasons your career choice requires training and a license, please help the sponsors of this bill and the Committee on Regulatory Reform understand why this legislation would harm you and your clients!”

“Michigan licensed beauty professionals, please TAKE ACTION NOW to defend your license from total deregulation!

*Please note only Michigan residents may take action on this alert. The messages are editable and may be changed to reflect your role in opposing the legislation. You may also change the email subject line and we encourage you to do so.

Twelve Michigan state representatives have introduced House Bill 5819 which will allow anyone to practice barbering, cosmetology, manicuring, esthetics, electrology, and operating a cosmetology or barber school WITHOUT a license or training. This bill has been referred to the House Committee on Regulatory Reform IHA


14 Hair Authority Fall 2020

The Two Types of ROI Return on Investment vs. Return on Influence By Christopher Tompkins In the marketing world, many businesses focus on ROI (return on Investment). However, when they don’t get the immediate monetary results they desire, they begin to pull away from social media marketing. But there is another side of the coin: ROI 2.0 (return on Influence). Many businesses have begun investing more time and money into individuals or organizations who can represent their brand and bring credibility and value to them. Have you considered this? Either way, both ROIs have a place in your marketing strategy - you just need to keep in mind that the value of each one will be unique for your business.

Return on Investment: If you’re spending money trying to promote a product or service, it’s essential to be fully aware of your ROI. There are a few things to consider first: 1. Know how to budget correctly - So many people think that spending thousands of dollars on advertising will result in a huge win for their company. Yes, more money can result in a greater ROI, but, what if you don’t have thousands to spend in order to acquire new customers? You need to be smart and strategic with what you do have. You’ll want to know as much about your target audience as possible. Don’t waste your money showing your ad to everyone in the world, when you could be showing your ad to JUST your target audience. 2. Know your KPIs and marketing goals - Speaking of being strategic, you must know your KPIs (key performance indicators). These are specific S.M.A.R.T. goals (specific, measurable, attainable, relevant, time-bound) that you can keep track of as your campaign progresses Without these, you’re making business decisions that are based on feelings instead of figures. If you aren’t careful, you could be spending money on marketing efforts that end up in little to no results.


Hair Authority Fall 2020 15 3. Know how to track your ROI using analytics - If you don’t already have traffic tracker set up on your website, what are you waiting for? This is one of the easiest ways to see your website traffic, where they came from, and what pages on your website had a greater increase in visitors than others. Most social media sites offer their own specialized pixel so you can maximize your advertising spend with them, enabling you to only “pay” for when someone clicks through to your site.

public relations campaign. Meaning, you can really tell your brand’s story fully - without being hampered by deadlines, timing, content lengths, restrictions, and more. You are able to comment in real-time to anything that is happening in the universe that you can tie your brand to.

Return on Influence:

3. Positions you as an expert - Your social media channels are an extension of your online presence. Consider it the more interactive version of your website or online point of sale. Here you are not just making claims, you are substantiating your business. You can craft and share content that helps bring your target audience closer to you. Showcase how your product/service/business solves a problem they face.

While your return on investment is very matter-of-fact and measurable, this is not always the case with return on influence. This is categorized by the social media engagement factors that have a robust effect in terms of business visibility and a knock-on effect in generating leads, sales, and awareness. The return on influence, while it may not be able to be transparently measured in dollars - has a direct effect on the overall campaign. 1. Know your measurements...and what they mean When you are measuring your level of influence, there is not a fancy equation that will help you deliver the ideal metric. Each business has its own needs and its own unique focus. Is it important for you to have a high number of people connected to your profiles? Then the size of your audience will be something that you will want to measure and keep track of. Are you looking to get your audience engaged with your content actively? Then you want to track likes, comments, reactions, and shares. Want to use social media links as calls to action to visit your website? Then you need to track the amount of traffic that you are generating via each site.

2. Tell your story. Your full story. In real-time - One of the largest returns you can get on ROI in the influence category is being able to tell your brand’s story, in real-time, while you gauge and measure engagement. Social media marketing is a beautiful compliment and extension to a well-executed

This shows that you are available, have a finger on the pulse, and are trustworthy. Who do people do business with? Those that they trust.

Each one of your social media channels acts as a branding and expertise hub where you can illustrate to your audience the value that you and your brand bring to the table and why they need to be interested. Having these authentic communications in real-time offers positioning like none other! Now, it’s time to make the best out of both metrics... While return on investment focuses on measurable goals, return on influence is about the results you gain from having a presence on social media, and of course, what your business does with this. As you continue your marketing journey, look further into how both ROIs can be factored into your strategy, and how you can reap the benefits of these. Measuring your results from a monetary standpoint and an influential standpoint can only help your business grow. About the author Christopher Tompkins is founder, head strategist, and CEO of The Go! Agency. His devotion to helping companies harness the power of online marketing impacts every aspect of The Go! Agency. A fundamental believer in online marketing education, Christopher speaks at national and international conferences. His latest book is, The Go Method: 22 Simple Steps to Creating a Social Media Strategy That Works! IHA


16 Hair Authority Fall 2020

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Hair Authority Fall 2020 17

“Pretty Shouldn’t Hurt” Film Rejects Pain as Part of Black Hairstyling UN-RULY, a beauty platform dedicated to Black hair and women, has joined with Black hair care brand, Dark & Lovely, to create a short film, “Pretty Shouldn’t Hurt: An Overdue Conversation About Protective Styles.” Protective hairstyles refers to styles such as braids, weaves, twists, locs and wigs that keep your hair free from unnecessary stress. One-third of Black women in the United States suffer from thinning around their hairlines caused by styles that place too much tension on the hair. “Pretty Shouldn’t Hurt” examines the evolution of Black hairstyles and reveals the damaging effects of traction alopecia and offers advice on what should be done to protect the hair and scalp. “We’ve grown up believing ‘the tighter the better’ when it comes to braided hairstyles,” says UN-RULY Co-Founder, Antonia Opiah. “As a result, today’s generation of Black women have seen their moms, aunts, grandmas and even friends lose their hairlines. We’re now setting out to reduce the rate of thinning hairlines among Black women by bridging the K.A.P (Knowledge Attitudes and Practices) gap.”

THE INTERNATIONAL TM HAIR AUTHORITY The Hair Authority’s mission is to provide hairmanagement professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will help them provide superior service to their clients and patients. It is a full-color tabloid, published quarterly and distributed worldwide. EDITOR IN CHIEF Christopher Webb

cwebb@hairauthority.com

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Dylan Case dcase@hairauthority.com

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Larry Oskin info@hairauthority.com

LEGAL NOTICE

The views expressed in The International Hair Authority are those of the individual author or contributor and not those of The International Hair Authority, its editors or staff. The Authority’s contents reflect the opinions of the authors and are not analyzed, peer-reviewed or otherwise investigated before publication. All authors and contributors are asked to disclose any interests they have of a commercial nature. The International Hair Authority makes no attempt to validate the sufficiency of such disclosures and makes no warranty, guarantee or other representation, expressed or implied with respect to the accuracy or sufficiency of any information provided. The publication of an advertisement does not constitute on the part of the International Hair Authority a guarantee or endorsement of the quality or value of the representations or claims made by the advertiser. The International Hair Authority accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All articles and letters become the property of the International Hair Authority and may be edited for clarity, presentations and space. By allowing your articles, interviews and personal commentary to be used in The International Hair Authority, you are giving the publication permission to use these materials in its pages, websites and other information materials. Advertisers are required to sign a formal advertising agreement indicating that they are not violating any trademarks or other intellectual properties. Full details are outlined in The International Hair Authority Media Kit.

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The material published in The International Hair Authority is copyrighted and may not be utilized in any form without the written consent of the editor.

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Photography by Abigail Opiah, Hair: Tiffany Beach Yeluchi by Un-Ruly

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18 Hair Authority Fall 2020

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Hair Authority Fall 2020 19


20 Hair Authority Fall 2020

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22 Hair Authority Fall 2020

Trichology Section

Current Trichological and Health News Certain Commercial Dermatology Products May Be Tied To Risk For Frontal Fibrosing Alopecia Dermatology Advisor reports, “Certain commercial dermatology products may be associated with risk for frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA),” investigators concluded in a “multicenter case-control study” that “recruited patients from 11 medical centers in Brazil.” For the study, “adult patients older than 18 years of age with a clinical diagnosis of FFA were matched to control patients with nonscarring alopecia who received care at the same centers.” The study revealed that FFA was tied to “formalin hair straightening and regular use of facial soap and moisturizers,” but not “associated with use of sunscreen.” The findings were published online in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. Prevalence Of Cardiac And Metabolic Disorders May Be Higher In Patients With Alopecia Areata Dermatology Advisor reports, “Cardiac and metabolic comorbidities were highly prevalent in patients with alopecia areata (AA),” investigators concluded after extracting “data from the Explorys electronic aggregate database, which comprises medical records data from more than 50 million patients across the United States.” Next, “patients with AA (n=33,130) were compared with patients without AA (n=57,246,350).” The study revealed that “compared with control patients, patients with AA had elevated prevalence rates of hypertension (28% vs 17.5%), obesity (18.1% vs 3%), hyperlipidemia (19.8% vs 6.6%), diabetes mellitus (11.4% vs 7.4%), metabolic syndrome (1.4% vs 0.3%), coronary artery disease (5.5% vs 1.8%), atrial fibrillation (1.7% vs 1.2%), and stroke (0.45% vs 0.31%).” The findings were published online in the Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology. FDA Has Reportedly Allowed Dangerous Hair Straightener Products To Remain On The Market The New York Times reports FDA scientists have said that the chemical used in “Brazilian Blowout” hair straightening treatments can be dangerous by causing formaldehyde poisoning, but the products have stayed “on the market despite the recommendations of ” the agency’s own scientists. The New York Times adds that people who have received such treatments have complained of headaches, eye pain, nose-

bleeds, nausea, and trouble breathing. The products claim to be “formaldehyde-free,” but they contain “methylene glycol, which converts to formaldehyde gas after coming in contact with air.” Some COVID-19 Survivors Report Hair Loss NBC News reports some COVID-19 survivors have reported hair loss. For example, Stacey Maravola of Leetsdale, Pennsylvania says her hair started falling out two months after she tested positive for SARS-CoV-2 and it kept falling out for two months after that. Dr. Sara Hogan, a dermatologist at UCLA’s David Geffen School of Medicine, says stress can cause sudden hair loss and that the pandemic has led to a large increase in people experiencing such hair loss. Tattooing Of The Skin May Impede Natural Sweating, Study Indicates HealthDay reports research indicates tattooing of the skin may impede “natural sweating – and that might cause the body to overheat.” Investigators arrived at that conclusion after assessing “sweating rates in the upper and lower arms of 10 people with tattoos, comparing at least 5.6 square centimeters of tattooed skin with adjacent non-tattooed skin.” The study revealed that “tattooed skin on arms ‘has reduced sweat rates, and thus potential heat loss capacity, during [wholebody heating], compared to adjacent skin without tattoos.’” The findings were published online in the Journal of Applied Physiology. Researchers Examine Ixekizumab Vs. Ustekinumab In Patients With Moderate To Severe Psoriasis And A BMI Greater Than 27 Dermatology Advisor reports, “Ixekizumab achieved higher Psoriasis Area Severity Index (PASI) than ustekinumab in patients with moderate to severe psoriasis and a body mass index (BMI) greater than 27,” investigators concluded after analyzing data from 64 patients. The findings of the “retrospective observational study” were published online in Dermatology Therapy. Meditation, Mindfulness Techniques During Phototherapy May Improve Patients’ Perspectives On Their Skin Disease, Research Suggests


Hair Authority Fall 2020 23 Healio reports, “Meditation and mindfulness techniques may improve patients’ perspectives on their skin disease,” investigators concluded in a study that randomized “27 patients who were receiving phototherapy for skin conditions...to meditation during phototherapy (16) or phototherapy alone (11).” Next, participants were “given a survey that included Dermatology Life Quality Index questions to evaluate the effects of meditation on stress levels and disease-specific impact.” The findings were presented in a poster at the American Academy of Dermatology virtual meeting. Researchers Say SARS-CoV-2 Can Live On Human Skin For Up To Nine Hours Fox News reports researchers in Japan “found that SARSCoV-2” can survive “on human skin for up to nine hours.” The researchers also found that SARS-CoV-2 “outlived the influenza A virus on human skin, which remained viable for about two hours.” The findings were published in Clinical Infectious Diseases. Research: Allergic Contact Dermatitis May Be Most Frequent Dermatologic Diagnosis In Patients With Affected Anatomical Sites Adjacent To The Scalp Dermatology Advisor reported, “Allergic contact dermatitis is the most frequent dermatologic diagnosis in patients with affected anatomical sites adjacent to the scalp vs those with isolated scalp involvement alone,” investigators concluded in a study that classified patients into five “mutually exclusive subgroups based on anatomic area involvement: scalp only (n=505); scalp plus face/ear/neck (S+FEN; n=883); scalp plus eyelids, eyes, lips, face, ears, neck, trunk, and/or arms (S+FENAT; n=388); scalp plus any site(s) other than face, ears, neck, arms, or trunk (S+Any; n=555); and scalp not specifically coded as a site (n=46,422).” The findings were published online in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. Topical Roflumilast Foam Improves Seborrheic Dermatitis In Phase 2 Trial, Drugmaker Says Healio reports, “Seborrheic dermatitis was improved in patients treated with topical roflumilast foam in a phase 2 clinical trial,” according to an announcement made by Arcutis Biotherapeutics “in a press release.” People With Blood Type O May Be Less Vulnerable To COVID-19, Studies Suggest CNN reports two new studies suggest that “people with blood type O may be less vulnerable to COVID-19 and have a reduced likelihood of getting severely ill.” One Danish study “found that among 473,654 people who were tested

for [COVID-19], only 38.4% with blood type O tested positive – even though, among a group of 2.2 million people who were not tested, that blood type made up 41.7% of the population.” Another study by “researchers in Canada found that among 95 patients critically ill with [COVID-19], a higher proportion with blood type A or AB – 84% – required mechanical ventilation compared with patients with blood group O or B, which was 61%.” The findings of both studies were published in Blood Advances. Many People Recovering From COVID-19 Have Reported Hair Loss As A Lingering Problem TODAY reports 27% of people “recovering from COVID-19 reported hair loss as one of the lingering problems in a survey of more than 1,500 people in the Survivor Corp Facebook group.” Physicians “say telogen effluvium is to blame, a temporary condition where people experience excessive hair shedding after an illness, surgery, high fever, a stressful life event, extreme weight loss or giving birth.” Dr. Esther Freeman, the director of the Dermatology COVID-19 Registry, “said there’s been a growing number of hair loss cases recorded.” Dr. Freeman said, “If you’re recovering from COVID and then all of a sudden your hair starts to fall out, it can be extremely emotionally distressing.” Dr. Marc Glashofer, a hair loss expert at The Derm Group in West Orange, New Jersey, said he has noticed an increase in cases of telogen effluvium, not just in people recovering from COVID-10. Dr. Glashofer said, “When I see somebody who has shedding, I don’t ask about daily stress like your job or traffic. We’re talking about big stress like the death of a loved one, change in career, a divorce and COVID – COVID is a big stress.” Research: Allergic Contact Dermatitis May Be Most Frequent Dermatologic Diagnosis In Patients With Affected Anatomical Sites Adjacent To The Scalp Dermatology Advisor reported, “Women with frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA) were found to have a higher prevalence of autoimmune disease, thyroid hormone abnormalities, and estrogen deficiency compared with the general population,” investigators concluded in a study that “phenotypic data from 711 women (median age, 66) living in the United Kingdom and of Eurasian ancestry with a diagnosis of FFA.” The findings (PDF) were published online in a research letter in the British Journal of Dermatology.

For More Trichology News Visit Our Website

www.hairauthority.com

IHA


24 Hair Authority Fall 2020

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Hair Authority Fall 2020 25

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26 Hair Authority Fall 2020

Hair Regrowth with Topical Cannabidiol (CBD)

A Case Series ABSTRACT The endocannabinoid system (ECS), discovered in the 1990s, is a system involved with maintaining cellular homoeostasis by down-regulating the damaging inflammatory response and upregulating regenerative processes. CB1 receptors are well expressed in the hair follicle cells. Blocking the ECS CB1 receptor with cannabidiol CBD has been shown to result in hair shaft elongation; in addition, the hair follicle cycle (anagen, catagen, telogen phases) is controlled by the ECS vanilloid receptor-1 (TRPV1). CBD has also been shown to increase Wnt signaling which causes dermal progenitor cells to differentiate into new hair follicles and maintains anagen phase of the hair cycle. The effects of CBD on hair growth are dose dependent and higher doses may result in premature entry into the catagen phase via a different receptor known as vanilloid receptor-4 (TRPV4). CBD is fat-soluble and poorly absorbed past the epidermis, but topical application of CBD easily reaches hair follicles where it is a CB1 antagonist, and TRPV1, and TRPV4 agonist. Several FDA approved medications are currently available but offer limited results. A new drug called SM04554 is at the end of Phase III trials and shows promise as a Wnt signaling agent. A study was done of 35 (28 men and 7 women) subjects with AGA. They used a once daily topical CBD formulation, averaging about 3-4 mg per day for six months. A hair count of the greatest area of alopecia was carried out before treatment was started and again after six months of treatment. To facilitate consistent hair count analysis, a clear acrylic mold was made of each subject’s head with a one centimeter cut out. The results revealed that men did slightly better than women, and the vertex area did better than the temporal areas. On average there was statistically significant 93.5% increase in nonvellus hair after 6 months of once daily use. All subjects had some regrowth. There were no reported adverse effects. The exact mechanism of therapeutic effects is not known, the

CBD is most likely functioning as a CB1 receptor antagonist and potentially also via Wnt messaging. The topical CBD formulation has superior results to finasteride and comparable results to 5% minoxidil once daily foam. Since the CBD works through novel mechanisms entirely different from finasteride and minoxidil it can be used in conjunction with these current drugs and would be expected to have synergistic effects. INTRODUCTION Androgenetic Alopecia (AGA) is a very common condition, that occurs in both men and women, and increases in prevalence with age. It is by far the most common cause of baldness and hair thinning. It generally starts in the third and fourth decades of life and significantly increases in prevalence in women after menopause. It is estimated that 50% of Caucasian men and 19% of Caucasian women are affected by age 50. [1] There is a lower prevalence and severity of the condition in Asian and black men.[1] AGA may adversely impact a person both psychologically and socially, especially in women.[2] The condition is characterized by follicular miniaturization in a specific pattern due to the effects of systemic androgens and genetic factors. [3] In the male pattern phenotype, the hairline regresses at the bitemporal regions and at the vertex. In the female pattern then is a diffuse thinning with preservation of the frontal hairline. However, the pathogenesis is the same.[2] AGA develops due to a disturbance in the cyclic transformation of hair follicles from active hair shaft growth and pigment production (anagen) to apoptosis-driven (cell death) hair follicle involution (catagen). CURRENT TREATMENT Two medications, minoxidil topical and oral finasteride are FDA approved for the treatment of AGA. Unfortunately, these medications offer limited results. The new combination of topical minoxidil and topical finasteride has shown more promising results.[4] Hair transplantation is the only current successful permanent option, and it requires surgical proce-


Hair Authority Fall 2020 27 A 48-week-long clinical trial of men with AGA was completed in December 2019. The study used an investigational new topical drug called SM04554. The drug is now entering into Phase III trials, expected to end in January 2021. It has shown some promising results in early Phase I and II trials and works by modulating the Wnt pathway that is postulated to initiate and maintain the anagen phase of the hair cycle. Wnt signaling also causes dermal progenitor cells to differentiate into new hair follicles. It is interesting to note that CBD has also been shown to increase Wnt signaling.[9] However, to date there is little basic science or clinical research on CBD and Wnt signaling. dures. Several other medical options, such as antiandrogens such as spironolactone, oral contraceptives, cyproterone, flutamide, dutasteride, prostaglandin analogs and ketoconazole are reported to be beneficial. However, they can be associated with significant adverse effects and are expensive. Laser and light therapies have also become popular despite the lack of documented profound benefit.[2] Minoxidil was first evaluated for treatment of hair loss in 1984 as a 1% topical solution.[5] It became clear that higher concentrations were needed. A 12-month double-blind trial [6] was done on 60 subjects with AGA. The use of twice-daily topical 2% and 3% Minoxidil [6] revealed that at month 4 the average total nonvellus hair counts had increased from a baseline mean of 158.2 to 270.2 (71% increase) in the 2% minoxidil group, from 156.6 to 287.0 (83% increase) in the 3% minoxidil group. At month 12 the means were 415.6 (163% increase) and 448.5 (186% increase) for 2% minoxidil, 3% minoxidil, respectively. The increases from month 4 to month 12 were highly significant for each group (p = 0.0001). More recently, a 5% once-a-day foam has been shown to be equally effective to twice-daily application of lower concentration topical minoxidil.[7] Finasteride, a type 2-selective 5Îą-reductase inhibitor, was approved in 1997 as the first oral pharmacologic therapy for the treatment of men with AGA. It was originally developed for the treatment of men with benign prostatic hyperplasia (BPH) at a dose of 5 mg/day. Subsequent studies demonstrated that finasteride was an effective treatment for men with AGA at an optimal dose of 1 mg/day. The net improvement in hair count (finasteride vs. placebo) was 14% at 1 year and 16% at 2 years.[8]

Recently, with the increasing acceptance of cannabis sativa-based therapies, cannabidiol (CBD) has come under consideration as a possible, effective, safe, inexpensive non-prescription, topical AGA therapy. CBD works through the endocannabinoid system (ECS) in the body and has novel effects on hair follicle elongation and hair matrix keratinocytes activated through ECS receptors in the hair follicle cells. As such, the therapeutic effects of CBD would complement the physiologic effects of minoxidil, finasteride and antiandrogen therapies. ECS AND HAIR FOLLICLES

The ECS was only discovered in the 1990s. In essence,

it is a system involved with maintaining cellular homoeostasis in response to excess oxidative stress. It down-regulates the damaging inflammatory response, and up-regulates regenerative processes. It is comprised of two receptors, cannabinoid receptor 1 and 2 (CB1 and CB2) and has two messenger molecules known as the endocannabinoids, anandamide (AEA) and 2-arachidonylglycerol (2-AG). One of the many systems that the ECS is involved with is thermoregulation within the skin. There are a substantial number of CB1 and CB2 receptors on various cell lines within the skin.[10] CB1 receptors are well expressed in the hair follicle cells. Stimulation of the CB1 receptor with the endocannabinoids leads to decreased hair shaft elongation. [11]; The hair follicle cycle (anagen, catagen, telogen phases) is controlled by the vanilloid receptor-1 (TRPV1). [12] TRPV1 receptors are found on the hair matrix keratinocytes. Mouse studies have shown that activation promotes hair follicle regression (catagen) and hair matrix keratinocyte apoptosis (cell death) thru retarding hair shaft elongation. [12] Endocannabinoids, and cannabis-derived phytocannabinoids, such as THC and CBD message TRPV1 receptors. It is postulated that CBD has therapeutic effects via TRPV1 receptors by excessive activation of the receptor that they become desensitized. [13] Tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) is a CB1 receptor agonist, and it has been shown to dose-dependently inhibit hair shaft


28 Hair Authority Fall 2020 elongation, decrease proliferation of hair matrix keratinocytes and induce intraepithelial apoptosis and premature hair follicle regression (catagen). These effects from THC were inhibited by a selective CB1 antagonist.[11, 12] The available research suggests that THC and other CB1 agonists can be used to manage unwanted hair growth, and likewise, CB1 antagonists, such as CBD and tetrahydrocannabivarin (THCV) and cannabidivarin (CBDV) can be used to promote hair growth. [11] CBD is a CB1 antagonist that probably has its effects via negative allosteric modulation of the CB1 receptor. [14, 15] A very recent study of human hair follicle cultured cells [16] revealed that use of lower doses of CBD resulted in hair shaft elongation, probably via CB1 antagonism. However, much higher doses resulted in premature entry into the catagen phase, probably via a different receptor, the vanilloid receptor-4 (TRPV4). Therefore, the dosing of the topical CBD needs to be evaluated in order to obtain positive hair regrowth. CBD Over the past decade CBD has been extensively researched for a myriad of therapeutic benefits.[17] CBD does not cause euphoria or addiction. It is very safe, with a very wide therapeutic window and few adverse effects. Topical application of CBD has not been associated with any significant adverse effects.[10, 18] CBD in an oral form has been FDA approved for treatment of recalcitrant epilepsy. CBD in sublingual, oral, inhaled and topical versions are relatively inexpensive and widely available as nutraceuticals. It is estimated [19] that as many as 14% of the US population has tried CBD products. CBD is fat-soluble and poorly absorbed past the epidermis, but topical application of CBD easily reaches hair follicles where it is a CB1 antagonist, and TRPV1, and TRPV4 agonist. [16]

MATERIALS AND METHODS The study is a case series of adults presenting to a ‘Hair and Scalp’ center in Clearwater Florida. Adult subjects, not currently using minoxidil or finasteride were offered the opportunity to receive the CBD paste free of charge. Thirty-five subjects (28 males, 7 females) had AGA based on the presence of gradually progressing bitemporal and/or vertex alopecia. Clinical diagnosis of AGA with Norwood-Hamilton Classification score of 3V or 4. The predefined endpoints were hair counts obtained in a defined, representative area of scalp hair loss, and investigator clinical assessment of hair growth. The females were ages 46-76 and the males 28-72. The subjects gave their written informed consent for this six-month trial. The study adhered to the Helsinki guidelines and was institutionally approved. None of the subjects were currently using minoxidil or finasteride. No other hair loss treatments were used during the six months of the research. The subjects were given a topical paste in a small 2 oz jar and advised to apply a thin layer once each morning to the areas of baldness. The subjects were advised that she could use blow dryers, conditioners and other hair preparations. The paste was replaced as needed throughout the six-month trial. The paste was made of high CBD cannabis sativa (hemp) flower that had been ultrapulverized into a fine powder. This chalk-like green powder was independently analyzed by Cannalysis Labs in Santa Ana, CA. It was found to contain 10.78% CBD, and 0.21% THC, and there was no detectable THCV or CBDV. This powder was infused into a lanolin base paste and natural Emu oil carrier. Each 2 oz jar contained 1000 mg of the power, or 108 mg of CBD. The subjects were advised to apply thin layer of the paste over all bald or balding areas once each morning. The 2 oz jar lasted approximately one month, which is an average daily dose of 3-4mg of topically applied CBD. A hair count of the greatest area of alopecia was carried out before treatment was started and again after six months of treatment. To facilitate consistent hair count analysis, a clear acrylic mold was made of each subject’s head. The front of the mold was positioned at the hair line, with additional measurements from the tip of the nose to the front of the mold. A one-centimeter square was removed from the mold in the area of greatest alopecia, which was either in the temporal or vertex region. The hair count was done within the 1 cm area. The nonvellus hairs within the one square centimeter were pulled through the opening with a surgical skin hook. A Bodelin ProScope with fifty times magnification was used to perform hair counts. RESULTS The specific data and hair count for each subject is demonCont’d Pg 30


Hair Authority Fall 2020 29

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Customer Service (800) 277-3316 VIVISCALPROFESSIONAL.COM XFUSIONHAIR.COM Materials of Church & Dwight, Co. Inc., the makers of Viviscal™ and XFusion™ by Toppik™. Copyright© 2019 Church & Dwight Co., Inc. All rights reserved. * These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. This product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.


30 Hair Authority Fall 2020 strated in Table 1. TEMPORAL AREA - This Table reveals that hair counts in the temporal area increased an average of 74.1% in men,

0.001) when temporal and vertex areas were combined. In general males and the vertex area did the best. All subjects had some increase in hair count. In general, the increased hair counts were associated with a cosmetically pleasing result. One-third of the patients reported some slightly increased hair shedding during the first month of treatment, this was no longer was noted at the two-month visit. Otherwise there was no reported adverse effects from use of the paste. DISCUSSION This case study supports significant hair regrowth benefits in both men and women with AGA. In general men did slightly better than women, and the vertex area did better than the temporal areas. On average there was 93.5% increase in nonvellus hair after six months of once-daily use. All subjects had some regrowth.

and 55.2% in women. In men the number of hairs increased from baseline of 20.6 to 33.7 (paired t-test p< 0.01) in the temporal area, and in women from 20.3 to 30.5 (paired t-test p< 0.01) VERTEX AREA - In the vertex area the hair counts increased an average of 120.1% for men, and 64.9% for women. In men, the number of hairs increased from baseline of 16.8 to 32.9 (paired t-test p< 0.01) in the temporal area, and in women from 18.7 to 30.7 (paired t-test p< 0.01). For all males, the baseline hair count was 18.28 (95% Confidence Interval +/- 3.02) and at six months it was 33.21 (95% Confidence Interval +/- 4.86). FOR ALL FEMALES, the baseline hair count was 19.57 (95% Confidence Interval +/- 4.83) and at six months it was 30.57 (95% Confidence Interval +/- 7.51). The pair t-value for men before and after difference was 7.38, p <0.00001. The pair t-value for women before and after difference was 5.56, p =0.0014. The hair count increased 93.5%, from 18.5 to 32.7 (p<

Although the exact mechanism of therapeutic effects is not entirely clear, the CBD is most likely functioning as a CB1 receptor antagonist, via negative allosteric effects, and potentially also via Wnt messaging. The dosing of the CBD needs to be further evaluated as preclinical research suggests that higher doses of CBD may cause agonistic effects at TRPV4 receptors which can cause premature entry of the hair follicle into the catagen phase. The safety of topically applied CBD has been previously well documented. Once again there is no reported significant adverse effects for six-month application of this CBD topical. The topical CBD formulation has superior results to finasteride and comparable results to 5% minoxidil once daily foam. Since the CBD works through novel mechanisms entirely different from finasteride and minoxidil it can be used in conjunction with these current drugs and would be expected to have synergistic effects. Further research with topical liposomal nano-particle CBD is planned. In addition, comparative, cross-over studies with minoxidil should be considered.


Hair Authority Fall 2020 31 CONFLICT OF INTEREST AND FINANCIAL AND OTHER DISCLOSURES: The authors adhered to the US “Federal Policy for the Protection of Human Subjects” (“Common Rule”) The authors/investigators have no economic interest in, does not act as officer or a director of, any outside entity whose financial interests would reasonably appear to be affected by this research study or its findings. The authors/investigators have no personal, business, or volunteer affiliations that may give rise to a real or apparent conflict of interest. Relevant Federally and organizationally established regulations and guidelines in financial conflicts are abided by. BIBLIOGRAPHY 1. Krupa Shankar, D., M. Chakravarthi, and R. Shilpakar, Male Androgenetic Alopecia: Population-Based Study in 1,005 Subjects. Int J Trichology, 2009. 1(2): p. 131-3. 2. Levy, L.L. and J.J. Emer, Female pattern alopecia: current perspectives. Int J Women’s Health, 2013. 5: p. 541-56. 3. alman, K.E., et al., Frequency, severity and related factors of androgenetic alopecia in dermatology outpatient clinic: hospital-based cross-sectional study in Turkey*. An Bras Dermatol, 2017. 92(1): p. 35-40. 4. uchonwanit, P., et al., A randomized, double-blind controlled study of the efficacy and safety of topical solution of 0.25% finasteride admixed with 3% minoxidil vs. 3% minoxidil solution in the treatment of male androgenetic alopecia. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol, 2018. 32(12): p. 2257-2263. 5. EE, V., et al., Topical minoxidil for hair regrowth Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 1984. 11(3): p. 416-421. 6. JL, R., Androgenetic alopecia: Treatment results with topical minoxidil. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 1987. 16(3): p. 705-710. 7. U, B.-P., et al., A randomized, single-blind trial of 5% minoxidil foam once daily versus 2% minoxidil solution twice daily in the treatment Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2011. 65: p. 126-134. 8. Shapiro J, K.K., Use of Finasteride in the Treatment of Men With Androgenetic Alopecia (Male Pattern Hair Loss). Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings, 2003. 8(1): p. 20-23. 9. 9. Vallee, A., et al., Effects of cannabidiol interactions with Wnt/beta-catenin pathway and PPARgamma on oxidative stress and neuroinflammation in Alzheimer’s disease. Acta Biochim Biophys Sin (Shanghai), 2017. 49(10): p. 853866. 10. Tóth, K.F., et al., Cannabinoid Signaling in the Skin: Therapeutic Potential of the “C(ut)annabinoid” System. Molecules, 2019. 24(5). 11. Telek, A.e.a., Inhibition of human hair follicle growth by endo- and exocannabinoid. 2007. 12. Bíró, T., et al., Hair Cycle Control by Vanilloid Receptor-1

(TRPV1): Evidence from TRPV1 Knockout Mice. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2006. 126(8): p. 1909-1912. 13. Muller, C., P. Morales, and P.H. Reggio, Cannabinoid Ligands Targeting TRP Channels. Front Mol Neurosci, 2018. 11. 14. Chung, H., A. Fierro, and C.D. Pessoa-Mahana, Cannabidiol binding and negative allosteric modulation at the cannabinoid type 1 receptor in the presence of delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol: An In Silico study. PLoS One, 2019. 14(7). 15. Laprairie, R.B., et al., Cannabidiol is a negative allosteric modulator of the cannabinoid CB1 receptor, in Br J Pharmacol. 2015. p. 4790-805. 16. Szabo, I.L.e.a., 263 (-)-cannabidiol differentially influences hair growth | Request PDF. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2017. 17. Dependence, E.C.o.D., CANNABIDIOL (CBD) Critical Review Report. 2018, World Health Organization. 18. Biro, T., et al., The endocannabinoid system of the skin in health and disease: novel perspectives and therapeutic opportunities. Trends Pharmacol Sci, 2009. 30(8): p. 411-20. 19. Corroon, J. and J.A. Phillips, A Cross-Sectional Study of Cannabidiol Users. Cannabis Cannabinoid Res, 2018. 3(1): p. 152-61. ai159407610733_PhytoTress World Trichology Ad 7.06.20.pdf 1 7/6/2020 6:55:09 PM IHA

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32 Hair Authority Fall 2020

Coronavirus Safety Tips for Salons By Amy Denoon, Pro Beauty Assoc.

I wanted to share with you the below insight from the Professional Beauty Association’s Executive Director, Steve Sleeper on safety tips for salons to help prevent the spread of COVID-19, as well as insight into the potential industry ramifications. Please let me know if you have any questions -- thank you - Amy! What impact do you see or think we’ll see on the beauty industry? Steve Sleeper, Executive Director of the Professional Beauty Association explains, “There will, no doubt, be an impact on the beauty industry due to COVID-19. Thus far, we’ve seen several industry events be cancelled or postponed, as well as a decline in salon visits in infected communities. The full extent of what this will look like has yet to be seen.” What are your top Concerns in regard to the effect of corona virus in the salon environment? “Our top concerns are the health and wellness of the individuals in the industry, their clients and customers as well as the potential economic impact on the salons and licensed beauty professional. Aside from maintaining health as the most integral priority, we want to help ensure that the salon world is minimally impacted economically.” Currently, the CDC has not recommended quarantines for individuals other than those who have tested positive for COVID-19 or those who have been potentially exposed to the virus. As long as salon professionals are practicing safety and hygiene precautions and related communications, the CDC has maintained business as usual for the time being. Historically, the professional beauty industry has thrived, even through challenging times. A smart way to ensure that the salon industry is prepared for whatever the economy brings is to have a strong cash-flow plan in place. The PBA offers roadmaps and business building tools for its members to help gain fiscal stability -- even through tough times. PBA also has in place a tele-health insurance program at a reduced rate for Members of $10/month. This service allows

our Members to virtually connect with board-certified professionals for medical consultations, questions, and concerns. For more information on this benefit as well as others, please visit probeauty.org.

Precautions for stylists and professionals to Help prevent the spread?

“The health and well-being of both the professional salon industry and its clientele is a top priority, and the best way to help ensure that is to practice great salon and personal hygiene always -- not just during this public health emergency, but always. This is a great example of why beauty professionals are licensed and that salons are regulated, inspected and have oversight by a state level regulatory body. It’s all there to ensure that the health and safety of everyone in the salon environment and their public customers are protected.” While the CDC has shared that for most of the American public, the immediate health risk is considered low, below is a list of easy-to-follow practices that the PBA recommends salon professionals follow to help prevent the spread of COVID-19, as well as seasonal colds and flu, based on collective information from both the CDC and WHO: Disinfection: Barbering and cosmetology State Boards direct that proper cleaning and disinfection are mandatory at all times -- from tools and implements to areas with counter tops, treatment rooms, back bars, reception areas, and styling stations. Be sure to strictly follow this -- wiping down busy areas often with an antibacterial cleaner.

Wash your Hands: The CDC recommends washing your hands with soap and water for at least 20 seconds to help prevent the spread of germs. Wash your hands before and


Hair Authority Fall 2020 33 after every client, after eating, using the restroom, and after blowing your nose, coughing or sneezing. Keep a 60% alcohol-based hand sanitizer at your station, as well. ‘ Stay Home: Try to keep your immune system strong -- lots of vitamin C, restful sleep, and drink ample water. However, if you -- or your client -- gets sick, the CDC strongly recommends staying home. As an added measure, the PBA recommends offering your clientele a “sickness cancellation policy” during this time that does not penalize any client for cancelling their appointment due to illness. Well-stocked Salon: Make sure your salon has tissue, soap, and alcohol-based hand cleansers to encourage healthful habits.

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Hands Off: During the cold and flu season, shaking hands or giving hugs to your clients and co-workers is not a good idea. Rather, tell your client that you’re practicing good hygiene and following the “hands off” protocol to help keep everyone healthy. Also, keep your hands “off” and away from your face, as that’s an easy path for transmission. Signage and Communication: Post signage at the front desk, as well as in the salon break room reminding guests and employees about the importance of hygiene standards such as hand washing, sanitizer, wiping down stations after use, covering coughs, and hands-off policies. Also, it’s important to share with your clientele the precautions your salon is taking to do its part in helping to prevent the spread of the coronavirus -- during online bookings, on the phone, via text, and in person. CDC: Follow the CDC for facts as they become available -- this continues to be the best source for information; www. cdc.gov.

What are the main Symptoms Of COVID-19?

The main symptoms of COVID-10 are Fever, Cough, and Shortness of Breath. Find out more about symptoms from the World Health Organization. Further, symptoms generally follow the subsequent path: It will first infect the throat, so you’ll have a sore throat lasting 3/4 days The virus then blends into a nasal fluid that enters the trachea and then the lungs, causing pneumonia. This takes about 5/6 days further. With the pneumonia comes high fever and difficulty in breathing. The nasal congestion is not like the normal kind. You feel like you’re drowning. It’s imperative you then seek immediate attention.

Reprinted with permission from The Professional Beauty Association. IHA

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34 Hair Authority Fall 2020

“My Hair Socially Distanced from My Forehead”

British comedian, Jimmy Carr brought hair loss into the lockdown era with a quip that’s bound to go viral. Appearing on the BBC sports comedy show Peter Crouch: Save Our Summer, Carr revealed that because “My Hair Socially Distanced from My Forehead” he’d had a transplant to bring the two back together again. IHA

Great Marketing If you can afford it! Would your product take off if you only had the right spokesperson? Thinking about a celebrity? How about J. Lo? J. Lopez entered into a sponsorship agreement with Hims & Hers in 2019 for an undisclosed sum and her fiancé, Alex Rodriguez signed up with the male brand, Hims. Before you enter into negotiations, you should know that Lopez has a reported net worth of $400 million, earning approximately $40 million each year. And she already has a clothing line, a fragrance/makeup line and a shoe collection to name just a few of the other products she supports. Instagram // @hers

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Hair Authority Fall 2020 35

Eyelashes – The Numbers Did you know you have nearly twice as many eyelashes on your upper eyelid than the lower one? The average person has around 100-to-160 upper lashes and 50-to-75 lower lashes. Eyelashes follow the same growth cycle as hair on the head with a natural growth, resting and terminal cycle. And as with fragile hair, eyelashes can easily be damaged by heavy or ill-applied extensions.

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36 Hair Authority Fall 2020

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