IHA Spring/Summer

INSIGHTS

SOCIAL

MARKETING Power of Stem Cell Extract Pg. 12

Tips from Top Dating Site Pg. 30

EDUCATION

The Secrets Of Hair

All About Hair Fibers

Pg. 5

Pg. 24

International Hair Authority Volume 27 No 86

The Profesional Publication of Hair Replacement & Restoration

TM

Spring/Summer 2021

Big Increase in Hair Care and Skin Care Counterfeits

Despite prescreening his patients, a plastic surgeon in Beverly Hills has died from COVID-19. Dr. Simoni was performing a simple cosmetiSome beauty-product brands and retailers with inventory and shipment operations are reporting e-commerce sales twice as high as their pre-Covid-19 levels, according to McKinsey & Company’s May Beauty Report. Overall, they estimate 20-30% growth will be more typical. Sephora’s U.S. online sales are reportedly up 30% versus 2019, as were Amazon’s beauty-product sales for the four-week period ending April 11, 2020.

With the increase in sales comes an increase in counterfeit products. According to Red Points, hair care and skin care counterfeits have increased 136% year-over-year.

Wound Healing with Hair and No Scar!

Better than hair multiplication in lab?

Exciting news for hair loss patients. Stanford Medicine researchers have found a drug that enables wound healing without leaving a scar. Scars form because they seal an opening in the skin more quickly than normal skin could grow. Scar tissue has no hair follicles and no sweat glands and is weaker than skin. However, the Stanford team discovered that interfering with certain molecular signals during healing can produce tissue indistinguishable from normal skin. The drug Verteporfin is the key agent and the researchers applied it to wounds in mice. “The healed skin looked completely normal” said Michael Longaker, MD. “The first thing we were shocked by was the all the hair in the healed wound. We were also able to see normal glands and the skin was just as strong as unwounded skin.” These findings have major implications for cosmetic surgeons including hair transplant professionals who may be able to harvest donor hair and still see new hair grow in the donor sites as the wounds heal. But the benefits don’t stop there. “It’s possible that many other medical afflictions, such as liver fibrosis, burns, abdominal adhesions, scleroderma and scarring to heart tissue after a heart attack, can be treated with the same approach” the researchers said.

Oscars of Hair Return to Vegas The Professional Beauty Association (PBA) has announced that tickets are now on sale for the 2021 North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA) 2021. It will take place on August 29th in Las Vegas at the Mandalay Bay Resort and Convention Center. NAHA honors top artists who push the boundaries of skill and creativity.

NAHA is a must-attend event for the who’s who of the beauty industry. NAHA 2021 was pushed back to August to ensure it could remain live and in-person. Due to capacity restrictions, a limited number of tickets are available and must be bought in pairs of 2 or 4. For more information visit probeauty.org/naha.

ARE THINNING MEN MORE SUSCEPTIBLE TO COVID? While studying the effects of androgens on hair loss, Applied Biology Inc discovered an association between baldness (androgenetic alopecia) and the risk of COVID-19. Normal hair loss is linked to the androgen receptor (AR) gene and when the researchers conducted a genetic analysis of 65 men hospitalized with COVID-19, they found that men with certain structural differences in this AR gene were more likely to develop severe COVID-19. The team noted that among hospitalized men with COVID-19, 79% presented with androgenetic alopecia compared to 31%-53% that would be expected in a similar aged match population.” In a presentation at the Spring meeting of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (EADV) Goren said the AR gene aberration “could be used as a biomarker to help identify male COVID-19 patients most at risk for ICU admissions.”

2 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021

Editorial Where’s my hair? There is no shortage of human hair. Yes, it is getting more expensive and it is harder to find virgin hair, particularly in the longer lengths, but it is still out there. Indian hair became the industry staple because it is similar to European hair in texture. Better yet, it was donated free to temples across India, who resold it at low prices to pay for temple upkeep. However, the arrival of the Internet has opened the eyes of many local women to Western hairstyles and they are now tempted to color, trim and curl their hair. Others have formed hair cooperatives to sell their hair direct to manufacturers for profit which obviously increases the cost of raw materials.

So, if bulk hair from India and other Asian markets is available, where is the bottleneck? The answer is China and its neighbor to the North who are still emerging from lockdown. Despite rapid industrialization, there are still dozens of hair factories in China, most of them in the coastal city of Qingdao. The Corona virus shuttered these hi-capacity ventilating centers, and the intricate business of hairpiece production cannot be easily ramped up again. The US trade stand off with China is hardly a lubricant either. Developing nations like Vietnam have attracted hair companies, and Aderans enjoys quality production in Thailand and the Philippines, but it is emerging markets like Cambodia and Myanmar that are now in the crosshairs.

In this issue, we publish the second of a series of articles where manufacturers share what they learned from the pandemic and the steps they are taking to provide their customers even better service now that business is returning to normal.

Asia personal care market gathers momentum - Chinese bio-tech company, TechnoDerma Medicines has begun a Phase 1 clinical trial of TDM-105795, a topical drug to promote hair growth. The men’s grooming products market in China now exceeds the growth rate of the women’s segment, growing 75% compared to the women’s 35%. As proof that men want to pamper themselves as well as looking good, the men’s fragrance category is growing more than make up and skin care according to market research company NPD group.

Meanwhile, the Korean market, already saturated with hair loss drugs with 95 products registered as generic drugs of Propecia, is about to see one more when Raon Pharma launches Finaon Tab 1mg. (finasteride).

San Diego is biotech hair loss research hub – NeoGenesis,

Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021 3

a cosmeceutical company that uses S²RM® technology to promote hair growth using the body’s natural repair process conducted its early stem cell research at UCSD. UC San Diego ranks among the top 10 institutions worldwide in biomedical research, according to the prestigious journal Nature.

Now TechnoDerma Medicines Inc. of China has contracted with Therapeutics Inc. based in San Diego to conduct its Phase 1 clinical trial for its new TDM-105795 hair loss formulation. In addition, Aneira and the Valkyrie Group, also based in San Diego, have just raised $25 million for clinical trials for their hair loss drug ANR-001.

Other independent biomedical institutions include Scripps Research, Salk Institute, Sanford Burnham Prebys Medical Discovery Institute, La Jolla Institute for Immunology.

Anyone driving along the coast from San Diego to La Jolla will be struck by the growing number of tissue research and medical centers.

Should I still wear a mask if I’ve been inoculated? – A surveyed among 4,500 Americans conducted by The Conversation, a nonprofit news organization, says YES! When black, white and Asian men and women were shown a picture of an employee with or without a mask and researchers found that customers consistently expected higher quality of service from workers who wore masks compared to employees who weren’t wearing face coverings. It also found that participants tended to become less anxious when they saw a service person with a mask.

In our next issue, we explore the market for textured hair and welcome the trend back to natural curly styles. We also go to Spain to introduce you to the team behind the European hair loss program, Pharma Hermetic and ask them why it took so long to bring this brand to the US. And we continue with part three of our series, “What we learned from Covid and how we plan to serve you better.”

As always, please share your own news, gripes and opinions and we’ll pass them on. You can always reach us at info@hairauthority.com or visit us online at: https://www. facebook.com/internationalhairauthority/ Stay well, stay safe,

Chris Webb Editor in Chief

4 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021

Science + Aesthetics PROVEN NON-SURGICAL SOLUTIONS FOR THINNING HAIR Science meets aesthetics to give your patients something new: a complete system that targets thinning hair inside and out. While clinically proven ViviscalTM PRO Supplements promote existing hair growth in 6 months, XFusionTM by ToppikTM Keratin Hair Fibers conceal thinning hair instantly. Together, they offer the perfect complement to your hair loss treatments and procedures, giving patients the short-term and long-term solutions that they need to fight the effects of hair loss and boost their confidence.*

XFusionTM by ToppikTM Keratin Hair Fibers • Instant Transformation • Decades of Loyal Users • Confidence Booster

ViviscalTM PRO Supplements • Over 25 Years & 10 Published Trials • Clinically Proven

Customer Service (800) 277-3316 VIVISCALPROFESSIONAL.COM XFUSIONHAIR.COM Materials of Church & Dwight, Co. Inc., the makers of Viviscal™ and XFusion™ by Toppik™. Copyright© 2019 Church & Dwight Co., Inc. All rights reserved. * These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. This product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.

Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021 5

THE SECRETS OF HAIR Hair is the most remarkable tissue in human beings. Apart from its visual appeal, hair has multiple functions and purposes from UV protection to heat retention, sensory reception and visual identification.

A single strand of hair can reveal valuable information about your diet, personal hygiene, vanity, use of drugs, DNA, your age, and even the probability of heart disease. Scientists claim the future belongs to hair because of its ability to provide unique insights into a patients’ medical prognosis.

According to a clinical study, protein markers from a single hair can accurately tell you how healthy you are, your dietary patterns, what essential nutrients you consume, and even reveal your socio-economic status. The lower the carbon levels, the higher your cost of living!

As hair is built from amino acids in your food, your hair keeps a record of your daily diet. Greasy hair indicates that you may be consuming more animal fats, sugar and alcohol.

Gray hair is especially informative. The greater the degree of gray hair, the more severe the risk of coronary disease. Other studies also suggest male-pattern baldness is associated with other serious health factors. According to Paradi Mirmirani, MD, a dermatologist with The Permanente Medical Group in Vallejo, California, premature gray hair also indicates that a person may be lacking a healthy diet and is suffering from chronic or oxidative stress which compromises the pigment-producing cells in hair follicles and negatively affect melanin production.

Going gray depends on genetics, chances are you will witness silver shine at the same age as your parents, says Dr. Mirmirani.

According to Dr. Ahmed Ghurbani, assistant professor at the Gilan Agriculture and Natural Resources Research and Education center, lackluster hair may indicate that your body is deprived of selenium, sulfur, and phosphorus, and essential healthy fats. He comments, “Hair forensic multi-phase examination has brought many eye-opening discoveries in medical science. If a hair sample contains the hair root, we can disclose determinism of exact age and male or female DNA identification through Short Tandem Repeat (STR) analysis.”

IHA

6 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021

Why Genetically Engineered Foods May Cause Hair Loss Joanne Washington

Genetically Engineered Food is food that has been methodically altered or modified by scientists; therefore, this food is no longer natural. GMO foods allow foreign genes, bacterial and viral vectors , viral promoters, and antibiotic marker systems to be engineered into food.

A significant percentage of processed foods purchased today contain some genetically engineered (GE) food products. Consumers have no way of knowing what foods are genetically engineered because the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does not require labeling these products.

The GMO process combines plants, animals, viruses and bacterium genes - that do not naturally occur together in nature – to better a species.

Can GMO Foods Impact the Health of Hair?

What we eat will undoubtedly impact our health and our hair. A study diet of processed foods, fast foods, and lack of nutrients will reflect the hair quality.

Genetically modified seeds were initially introduced to the market to reduce insect damage to crops. The biggest problems with genetically engineered seeds are produced with herbicides and insecticides that are toxic and, Overtime diminishes a person’s health.

Research shows that GMO foods are devoid of the proper nutrients the body needs to promote healthy hair and good health.

Sugar (artificial sweeteners and high fructose are often hidden in many of our favorite foods. Millions of men, women and children have a steady diet of processed foods, fast foods, and cereals, all of which have food additives and preservatives made of chemicals. Many people have a difficult time digesting these foods.

Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021 7 Our bodies require real food, fruits, vegetables and natural nutrients to give the cells what is needed to support healthy hair; otherwise, the hair will show signs of hair thinning or sudden hair loss.

Risks Associated with GMOs Effects on Overall Health There are many health conditions that are being reported because of GMOs, including: • Allergies • Hypertension • Infections • Diabetes • Anemia • Cancer • Immune system damage • Atrophy of the liver • Digestive system damage When the immune system has been weakening or compromised, the body cannot absorb the nutrient necessary to enter into the cells to feed the organs that keep you alive and well.

How to Protect Yourself Purchase USDA Organic Foods when possible Clean all fruits and vegetables with vinegar and aluminum-free baking soda Read labels: If you cannot pronounce the words, chances are the foods are not healthy Limit the amount sugar intake

United States The U.S. Food and Drug Administration currently requires labeling of GE foods if the food has a significantly different nutritional property; if a new food includes an allergen that consumers would not expect to be present or if a food contains a toxicant beyond acceptable limits.

Mandatory labeling of genetically engineered (GE) foods in the United States has been proposed, but not enacted at the national, state and local levels.

IHA

THE INTERNATIONAL TM HAIR AUTHORITY The Hair Authority’s mission is to provide hairmanagement professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will help them provide superior service to their clients and patients. It is a full-color tabloid, published quarterly and distributed worldwide.

EDITOR IN CHIEF Christopher Webb

cwebb@hairauthority.com

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Vikas Verma vicky1verma@gmail.com

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Larry Oskin, Hans Diks (Europe) info@hairauthority.com

LEGAL NOTICE

The views expressed in The International Hair Authority are those of the individual author or contributor and not those of The International Hair Authority, its editors or staff. The Authority’s contents reflect the opinions of the authors and are not analyzed, peer-reviewed or otherwise investigated before publication. All authors and contributors are asked to disclose any interests they have of a commercial nature.

The International Hair Authority makes no attempt to validate the sufficiency of such disclosures and makes no warranty, guarantee or other representation, expressed or implied with respect to the accuracy or sufficiency of any information provided. The publication of an advertisement does not constitute on the part of the International Hair Authority a guarantee or endorsement of the quality or value of the representations or claims made by the advertiser. The International Hair Authority accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials.

All articles and letters become the property of the International Hair Authority and may be edited for clarity, presentations and space. By allowing your articles, interviews and personal commentary to be used in The International Hair Authority, you are giving the publication permission to use these materials in its pages, websites and other information materials.

Advertisers are required to sign a formal advertising agreement indicating that they are not violating any trademarks or other intellectual properties. Full details are outlined in The International Hair Authority Media Kit.

COPYRIGHT

The material published in The International Hair Authority is copyrighted and may not be utilized in any form without the written consent of the editor.

THE INTERNATIONAL HAIR AUTHORITY 39252 Winchester Road #107-383 Murrieta, CA 92563 Email: info@hairauthority.com Tel: 626-709-6397

8 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021

Responding to Covid 19 THE SUPERHAIRPIECES PRE-ORDER SYSTEM This is the second in a series of articles where manufacturers and distributors were invited to share how they responded to the pandemic, what they learned and what steps they have taken to provide even better service to the customers now that business it’s beginning to return to normal. The following commentary comes from Superhairpieces which has a marketing and sales hub in Florida and its own hair factory in China.

HOW DID YOU RESPOND TO COVID? In response to the COVID-19 pandemic, Superhairpieces introduced a new temporary pre-order system so that retail and B2B clients were guaranteed to receive their preferred units. We formed a dedicated pre-order team to track, monitor and fulfill all pre-orders. We also initiated a large campaign to inform our B2B clients how to understand, adopt and participate with this new system.

Clients can place pre-orders on the Superhairpieces website by either going to “Pre-Order” under the Men or Women category on the homepage, or going to the product page of

their preferred unit and clicking on the pre-order option.

They also have the option of subscribing to an “In-Stock Alert” from the product page whenever their unit is available again. However, these units are only available for a limited time until they are sold out. Pre-orders, on the other hand, are guaranteed.

WHY DID YOU COME UP WITH THIS IDEA?

As the supply chain was affected by the pandemic, our customer success team reached out to various business owners and hair professionals to collect their wish lists. However, we found that the wish lists were too long and overwhelming for our production line.

That is when we decided to focus on a paid pre-order system which we found to be the most serious commitment to products in addition to being simple and fair as far as supply was concerned.

Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021 9

ARE ALL UNITS AVAILABLE BY PRE-ORDER? Nearly all our stock pieces are available for pre-order with limited customization options available. As of May 2021, only a select few are not available for pre-order and this includes our Pro Series units and any bleached front units.

HOW LONG DO PRE-ORDERS TAKE? On average, pre-orders can take up to 4 months to get delivered. Skin-based hairpieces take around 2-3 months while lacebased hairpieces take 3-4 months. However, there are a select few units which can take 6-9 months because of the complex manufacturing process. That said, pre-orders can arrive sooner if the factory is already working on a unit.

HOW ARE CUSTOMERS KEPT INFORMED ABOUT YOUR PRODUCTION SCHEDULE? Superhairpieces releases monthly updates on its fulfillment rates so that customers have a good idea of when to expect their pre-ordered units to be delivered. Currently, 95% of Superhairpieces pre-orders placed in September 2020 were fulfilled in May 2021 while 12% of pre-orders placed in February 2021 were fulfilled in May 2021.

HOW ELSE HAS SUPERHAIRPIECES RESPONDED TO THE PANDEMIC? In addition to the monthly pre-order fulfillment rate updates, we release monthly custom order fulfillment rates as well so that customers receive key information on when to expect their custom orders.

Superhairpieces also announced four new models in response to the pandemic for customers to have a temporary solution while they waited for their pre-orders. These models slightly compromise on material and durability to allow for quicker manufacturing, but they are good makeshift alternatives for customers while they await their pre-orders.

Lastly, Superhairpieces also has limited edition models available for both men and women which are available until things go back to normal.

IHA

10 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021

Adapt to Changes : Our COVID response

PRE-ORDER Stock Hair Systems Superhairpieces.com | 1.866.814.7879

Customization Hair density Grey hair % Base size

Increase / Decrease above adjustments

Be prepared

Delivery

For the near future

Up to 3 months

Pre-order

Custom order

Up to 6 months

KEEP GOING Let’s prepare for changes without compromising on what we love to do

Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021 11

Pre-Order Fulfillment Rate During Pandemic The average waiting time for pre-orders is still 3-4 months for lace-based hairpieces and 2-3 months for skin-based hairpieces.

However, your order may arrive much sooner if the factory was already working on that particular unit before you placed the order.

95% of Pre-orders placed in September 2020 were fulfilled in May 2021

100%

95%

96%

90% 83%

75%

While 12% of Pre-orders placed in February 2021 were fulfilled in March 2021

51%

50%

37% 23%

25%

12%

0% Sep ‘20

Oct ‘20

Nov ‘20

Dec ‘20

Jan ‘20

Feb ‘21

Mar ‘21

Apr ‘21

Custom-Order Fulfillment Rate During Pandemic There's a good chance you will get your custom order placed in January or February in May (2-3 months waiting time).

However, with all the disruptions and uncertainties during the pandemic —and depending on the type of hairpiece you order— the average waiting time for custom orders is 5-6 months.

Almost 100% of custom orders placed in July 2020 were fulfilled in May 2021

100% 75% 50%

100%

99.6%

While 10% of custom orders placed in March 2021 were fulfilled in May 2021

94% 92%

85%

77% 66%

66% 44%

25% 0% Jun ‘20 Jul ‘20 Aug ‘20 Sep ‘20 Oct ‘20 Nov ‘20 Dec ‘20 Jan ‘21 Feb ‘21 Mar ‘21 Check the fulfillment rate article

12 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021

The Power of Stem Cell Extract Keracell CEO, Ekin Ozlen Explains Keracell is a company based in California that offers hair and skin care products based on multiple human cell stem cell technology.

Their ‘Hair Rewind Package’ targets hair loss and scalp and follicle regeneration, while its ‘Hair Reset Package’ claims to strengthen fine and thinning hair and seal the hair cuticle for added shine and durability.

Keracell products are based on multiple human cell stem cell (MHCsc)™ technology de-

rived from the combination of Fibroblasts and Mesenchymal Cells utilizing Exosome delivery. This technology is then combined with other proven cosmetic “bio-active” ingredients such as vitamins, minerals, targeted peptides and technologically advanced ingredients for results driven solutions for the face, hair and body.

To learn more about these advanced products, Hair Authority met with Keracell CEO, Ekin Ozlen What does “Keracell” mean?

‘Kera’ stands for keratinocyte and ‘cell’ refers to the human stem cell extract that we infuse within our hair and skin product lines.

What is the difference between human stem cell extract and plant or organic stem cells?

The way I explain it is that ‘like wants like’. We are human, so our cells will be best activated and revitalized by other human stem cells. In this case it’s a human stem cell extract

Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021 13 that is topically applied. I’m not going to downplay the power of plant-based stem cells because we have a Botanica line, but they’re never going to give you the result that human stem cell extract can provide. Botanica uses bamboo stem cells, cotton stem cells and stem cells from the argan tree in a special botanical line and they provide a benefit at a more competitive price. But to my mind, we are human, and our scalp and hair is going to react best to a human stem cell extract.

You put a lot of emphasis on the fact that your formulations contain multiple human cell stem cell technology. Why is that?

and that’s definitely a defining factor in our product line.

When you use a product, you can feel if it’s well manufactured. It won’t lay on the surface of your skin; it’s going to penetrate without leaving a residue. You shouldn’t need a roller or anything to prick the skin. Keracell will absorb into the skin because of those minute nanoparticles.

Did you have to educate people and help them understand the technology that has gone into your products?

We’re innovators in human stem cell extract-based products.

We believe the efficacy of our product line is due to the fact that we’re pulling from multiple human source materials.

SkinMedica is a well-respected competitor that also utilizes human stem cell extract, but they’re pulling from only one source.

There are so many different variables and each one offers different benefits. For example, plastic surgeons love products based on adipose tissue, because for them it’s all about boosting collagen. Our products are highly effective because of our starting materials. I believe the multiple human cell stem cell extract that we’re putting in our products can improve anyone’s skin or hair.

Is there any risk of rejection?

We have seen extremely low allergy rates, which is what I love about human stem cell extract topically applied. It basically brings the skin back to homeostasis. Everyone can benefit, whether they have oily skin or dry skin.

How does your product penetrate the skin barrier?

It’s due to the tiny nanoparticles. Product penetration is the most important thing when it comes to performing better

It was extremely challenging because we were the first human stem cell extract brand to go into major retail. It has been difficult to educate not only consumers, but also the beauty advisors that are selling the product. My goal now is to get the word out about the power of human stem cell extract topically applied. People hear all the time about human stem cells for wounds and shoulder or knee injuries, so just imagine using that rejuvenating power on the skin and scalp.

It’s incredible. There’s nothing out there that can give you the same results.

Did some people who embrace the technology believe that science is the future of beauty while others were cautious because stem cells evoked negative associations?

That’s very important and why I rely so much upon the education component of these products and the fact that they’re clinically validated. I don’t know why people immediately think stem cells all come from an aborted baby. Even some people who work in doctors’ offices say, “but where does it come from?” I don’t know why everyone always goes there, but it’s the first question I get. But l actually welcome that question because I love educating and telling people that it’s going to be the greatest thing they’ve ever used.

Tell us about the clinical studies and the efficacy of the product.

14 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021 The complete extract has been tested as well as the peptides within our product. They were evaluated by researchers at Stanford University. It’s all on the website. If you click on Keracell MD, it goes on a deep dive into all of that. This is important when it comes to a hair loss product because you want to know if it’s really going to work. Does it have clinical validation? The research gives you peace of mind.

Would you regard your hair products as a cosmetic, a wellness product or a drug?

Definitely a wellness product and a cosmetic. Everything that you see on our packaging I’ve written myself and I’m extremely careful about what I tell clients. I want to be mindful of the regulations, but I also want to tell them the things I’ve seen and that clients have experienced. I am careful not to make medical claims.

Were you ever tempted to include minoxidil in your formulation?

No, because minoxidil is a drug and as soon as you stop using it, your hair falls out. That’s the antithesis of what we stand for. I don’t ever want people to feel trapped in any hair regimen. That’s super important to me. It’s not fair to the consumer to get them into a product where if they stop, boom, their hair falls out. That’s terrible. We want to help their body to do its job better. And that’s what our products really do. They strengthen the user’s natural ability.

What was the first haircare product you introduced?

Actually, the spray is very user-friendly. Whether your hair is wet or dry, you just move the spray around a little and spread it with your fingertips. It dries without leaving any residue.

There’s no scent. You can use it for color treated hair, if you’re doing Brazilian blow dry, or if you are suffering from traction alopecia because you have extensions. Obviously if you have a shiny bald head, it’s not going to work. You have to have hair follicles that are still alive.

“Hair and Scalp Revitalizing Spray” was the first foot in the door. What product followed?

We wanted to build a system around that product. We didn’t want people buying things that were going to interfere with the efficacy of the hair growth spray so next we introduced a shampoo and a conditioner. It has tea tree, kale, quinoa, lemon, and rosemary. When you use them, your hair is shiny and voluminous almost immediately. The tea tree will address any kind of dryness or flakiness; I happen to have a dry scalp and I was on dandruff shampoo my entire life and it’s really helped me with the dryness.

People need to understand that you have to balance whether your hair tends to be oily or dry. It has to have the right balance before hair is going to grow properly. A lot of times people don’t realize that there’s inflammation in their scalp because of an imbalance. Our shampoo and conditioner addresses that. That’s why it’s important to use all the products in our five-product system. Each one of the products is responsible for a different result. And those results combined together are going to give you the best hair growth.

What is the recommended regimen for somebody who uses all five products?

The first product is still our hero product. It’s called the “Hair and Scalp Revitalizing Spray”. We probably have 40 products now, but I still consider this our hero product.

We’re surprised you chose a spray, not a dropper to avoid wastage.

Wash your hair three to four times a week. Protect the natural oils. A lot of people over wash their hair. They’re fussing with it. Set yourself up for success. Use a wide tooth comb, I recommend brushes that are gentle on the hair. Sleep with a satin pillowcase. Don’t put your hair up in tight ponytails.

I tell my clients to, “walk me through a day in your hair’s life” so we really get to understand what they’re doing that may not be beneficial to their hair or scalp. Then we get into our products. Shampoo, conditioner – obviously a leave-in conditioner to protect the hair shaft. It’s important to protect the hair that we already have, not just worry about growing more hair.

The number one thing my products do is help reduce the shedding process almost immediately. Whether you’re in your hair’s growth phase or not, the moment you start using the products, you’re going to notice your hair looks lustrous and your follicle is anchored. You’re slowing that shedding process and reducing inflammation in the scalp. Then a couple of

Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021 15 months go by – you have to give it a couple months because everyone’s in a different growth phase when they start using the product line – and you start noticing that your hair appears thicker. All of a sudden, your hairline is changing. I can speak from experience. I used to pull and tug at my hair when I used a curler. Now my hairline is nice and full again.

Do you also see benefits on the surrounding skin?

Great question. A lot of times when people spray the product, they let it drip and don’t wipe it off and we’ve seen impressive forehead improvement. Things like improved skin pore size, wrinkles, brown spots, just from the spray hitting the skin. We didn’t expect that.

We had a lady who was about 80 years old who was testing the hair and scalp revitalizing spray. She used it for 90 days and her hair started coming back in its natural color. She had gone completely gray, but she began seeing all these strands of hair coming back in her original, dark color. That’s just one of many things we’ve seen and that’s why I’m saying there’s nothing on the market like this. We’re combining CBD and human stem cell extract in four products. No one’s doing that. That’s an amazing combination – two superpowers for the skin.

You also have an MD collection. Why did you create one product for the general public and another for professionals?

We wanted to create a line for medical practitioners to send their clients home with. They are doing a lot of ablative treatment, so they need products that are fragrance free. Our over-the-counter line has essential oils, which isn’t ideal for professionals if they’re doing PRP for the scalp or any kind of dermaplaning or micro needling. So, we said, let’s design something specifically for those patients that will be great during treatment and that they can also use daily afterwards.

It had to be completely fragrance free and be extremely efficacious to lessen downtime and speed up healing. Healing time is very much a factor when everyone has a fast-paced life. We’re all too busy to take two weeks out before we can go back out in public again.

What makes the combination of stem cell extract and CBD in some of your products so effective?

CBD is not just for anti-inflammation. It’s incredible for eczema, psoriasis, anti-acne stress and reducing anxiety. We’ve even used it to create a beauty mask that enhances your skin while you sleep. What could be better than having your skin repaired naturally while you rest?

Do you have any competition as you pioneer these technologies?

Many people always ask me that and I look around and no one is doing what we do. We’re definitely innovators in this space. They’re not doing it with such a high science brand.

We’re bringing advanced technology down to a consumer level. People want to understand what they’re putting on their skin. Consumers are super intelligent now. They’re all over the internet and I love giving them the knowledge to understand and make the right choices. It’s such a confusing market with so many options out there. You really need to know what you’re getting into when you’re applying a product every day.

In many ways Asia has become a leader in the development of new beauty technologies. Is Keracell leading the way in stem cell extract research?

It’s give and take. I live in California and there’s a lot of interesting stuff going on in the beauty world here. I was at my plastic surgeon’s office the other day and having some laser treatment and I started talking to the nurse. They know that I own a brand that’s human stem cell extract based, and she started telling me how they have started doing IVs of human stem cell off-label for children with autism. I was amazed that a plastic surgeon’s office is doing this. Everywhere in the world there’s something that another country doesn’t know about. I love that we’re learning from each other and building upon that to make products that are even more efficacious.

Looking over the horizon, what can we expect to see next?

Our Botanica line is exciting for us because you cannot import human stem cell extract-based products into the EU right now. So, we said, let’s take something that’s botanical and make it a powerhouse alternative. We went to work on that and then the pandemic hit, so we immediately switched gears and developed a botanical hand sanitizer because that’s what everybody needed at the time.

I love helping people to feel beautiful. I’m inspired by that. I want to help people deal with the super emotional aspect of

When you’re on the cusp of new technologies, it’s tempting to premium price and recover your investment, but you decided to make your products affordable to a broad market.

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Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021 17 hair loss. I like watching their faces light up when their hair’s growing and they don’t have to wear hats anymore. I’ve had so many instances where clients would call me crying about hair loss. It’s really emotional. Keeping our prices where more people can afford it allows them to actually do something.

In all honesty, our products really should be much more expensive because there’s so much in them, but I want them to remain accessible.

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What is the key thing you would like readers to know about Keracell?

If they’ve never used a human stem cell extract-based product, the time is now. They will never look back. That’s what I want people to know. They’ve got to start using products that are efficacious and stop wasting money on things that don’t deliver. We’re extremely results driven.

If they started using the product tomorrow, how long before they see a benefit?

It depends on the product. I have some skin care clients who told me their skin was better within a few days. Speaking from my own experience, I noticed right away that my pores were getting smaller, and I started seeing fine lines diminishing and brown spots on my skin going away.

Of course, I started using the hair products and my hair was growing like a weed. In fact, I was also using our lash and brow serum and I had to start cutting my eyelashes with scissors because they were hitting my sunglasses. This is a very powerful product line.

I’m so grateful that’s happening in the medical industry because it’s giving us credibility as a skincare brand. We were concerned at first because when you’re so far ahead with technology people may not be ready for it. But I better feel now that the medical community is shedding light on this powerful agent. We are very confident about the future.

Much of the stem cell research was carried out by the medical community and it’s only now that people are becoming aware of the power of human stem cell extract.

IHA

Dr. John Kahen, the founder of Beverly Hills Hair Restoration, (BHHR), is a highly sought-after hair restoration surgeon. He has developed a patented technique that is a non-invasive procedure for restoring hair loss for those with thinning or balding hair. The procedure is known as SmartPRP®, and can be used by both men and women.

Dr. Kahen’s technique uses the body’s own tissue regeneration system to strengthen small hairs and stimulate growth of new hair follicles. SmartPRP® is done in some cases as a stand-alone treatment, or it can be combined with general hair transplant surgery, depending on what procedure is best for an individual patient.

The SmartPRP® treatment is generally a 30-minute procedure, and since the SmartPRP® is a non-invasive procedure, patients can generally return the following day to their normal daily activities. Dr. Kahen’s SmartPRP encourages the growth of strong, healthy, beautiful hair follicles. SmartPRP is incorporated in every transplant at Beverly Hills Hair Restoration.

Dr. Kahen is known for the success of this SmartPRP procedure and is accepting new patients. He invented his SmartPRP procedure to achieve impeccable hair restoration results by injecting patented PRP formula into the scalp during the hair transplant process.

Dr. Kahen is an award-winning hair transplant specialist and says, “I treat each of my patients as I would treat a member of my own family and only make the kind of recommendations to them that I would make to someone dear to me.”

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18 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021

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20 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021

40 Flaxen Facts about Blonde Hair Hair color is based on how much melanin, or pigmentation, is in the hair. Two types of melanin create hair color: 1) eumelanin and 2) phaeomelanin. The more eumelanin a person has, the darker their hair will be. Phaeomelanin works in a similar way, except instead of causing hair to be blacker, it causes hair to be more red. Low levels of both eumelanin and phaeomelanin characterize blonde hair.

ingly blonde hair.

Blonde hair can range from practically white (platinum blonde) to a dark golden blonde. Strawberry blonde, the mixture of blonde and red hair, is the rarest type of blonde hair.[4] Because blond hair tends to turn darker with age, natural blonds make ups just 2% of the population.

Princess Diana spent almost 4,000£ ($6,284.80) a year to have her hair bleached.

Just 1 in 20 white American adults is naturally blonde, and roughly the same ratio applies to white northern Europeans.

Virtually 1 in 3 white adult females dye their hair a shade of blonde.

Interesting Blonde Hair Fact The gene that causes blonde hair in Melanesians is different than the gene that causes blonde hair in Caucasions (Graham Crumb, Port Vila, Vanuatu) The Melanesians of New Guinea are the only dark-skinned group of humans known to have a high blonde hair rate.

Recent excavations in China’s Taklamakan desert have found mummies from as far back as 1800 B.C. with strik-

Jean Harlow was Hollywood’s first blonde goddess. She dyed her hair with a mixture of peroxide, household bleach, soap flakes, and ammonia until it fell out and she was forced to wear a wig.

In Greece, blonde hair was associated with prostitution. Messalina, a Roman empress, would hide her black hair with a blonde wig when she visited the brothel every night.

Greek dramatist Menander (342-291 B.C.) once wrote, “No chaste woman ought to make her hair yellow.”

Nearly 2,000 years before Homer, during the time of the Proto-Indo-Europeans, blonde hair was connected to the worship of the sun and fire and to the adoration of a yellow dawn goddess. The Persians plaited their beards with golden threads, and the Assyrians powdered their hair with extravagant clouds of gold dust.

Marilyn Monroe, who was not a natural blonde, refused to

Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021 21 They would wear a crownless straw hat with a wide brim called a solana. The hat shaded their faces and skin from the sun, while their hair was combed out over the hat and exposed to the sun. There are records of women developing heatstroke, headaches, nosebleeds, and even blindness.

allow other blonde actresses on the film set with her.

Her natural hair color was brown.

I like to feel blonde all over.- Marilyn Monroe

Blonde hair is seen throughout fairy tales, including Rapunzel, Rumpelstiltskin, Cinderella, and Goldilocks. In fairytales, blonde hair often suggests strength, untarnished beauty, indestructibility, youth, and high value. In contrast, vice is association with hairy, dark, and ugly.

German blondes were taken captive during the Roman era and had their hair cut off to be made into wigs for fashionable ladies. Successful wars were a source of a large influx of blonde hair.

Northern Europe has the most blondes. However, even most natural blonde babies lose their blonde hair once puberty sets in. Additionally, women find that after their first pregnancy, their hair and skin darken permanently.

The word “blonde” is derived from several possible sources. Some scholars think it derived from the Medieval Latin blundus meaning “yellow,” the Old Frankish blund, meaning “grey haired” or “to mix,” or from the Old English beblonden meaning “dyed.”

Influenced by Richard Wagner, Elizabeth Nietzsche, the sister of the famous philosopher, selected an entire community of people based on their blonde hair and blue eyes and shipped them off to an isolated village in Paraguay in order to plant the seed of a new race of supermen. The village still exists.

Interesting Blonde Hair Fact Ancient women often turned to disgusting methods to achieve blonde tresses.

In Ancient Rome, women tried to dye their hair blonde with pigeon dung. In Renaissance Venice, they used horse urine.

Hydrogen peroxide was discovered in 1818, but there was little application for it until 1867 when it was found that it could bleach hair. It quickly became popular throughout Europe and America, superseding everything else that had been used as bleach before then.

During the Renaissance, society women spent hours on the balconies of their mansions bathing and rinsing their hair with a tincture known as aqua bionda or aqua di gioventu.

During the Middle Ages, blonde women were held with suspicion, and by the mid-14th century, depictions of Eve were consistently giving her free-flowing locks of golden blonde hair that marked her as an evil temptress. An image in 1356

by Bartolo di Fredi in San Gimignano depicts the creation of Eve as a pale and sensuous blonde emerging from the ribcage of a sleeping Adam.

Interesting Blonde Hair Fact

Meteors were once called “comets” after the Latin word comes, meaning hair, and were named for their flowing golden tail of hair as they flashed through the sky.

Eve, the blonde temptress Dr. Tony Fallone noted in 1997 that hair color is the root of a person’s personality. Blondes are typically more outgoing and lively and are perceived as more feminine than women with other hair colors. According to Fallone, being blonde is not a hair color, but a state of mind.

Alfred Hitchcock, the “master of suspense,” was obsessed with blondes and cast only blondes in his movies. His favorite blondes included Eve Marie Saint (North by Northwest), Joan Fontaine(Suspicion), Carol Lombard (Mr. and Mrs. Smith), Janet Leigh (Psycho), Grace Kelly (Dial M for Murder, Rear Window, and To Catch a Thief ), and Tippi Hedren (The Birds and Marni). Scholars have noted that Hitchcock’s blondes have become one of the most potent icons of our era.

Blonde-haired heads have more strands of hair than red- or dark-haired heads. Blondes have approximately 140,000 hairs compared with 108,000 for their darker counterparts.

22 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021

Little Known Blonde Hair Fact Darker hair naturally provides more of a protective barrier, which means brunettes need less hair than blondes to protect their scalp Barbie, a blonde, is the most popular doll in the world.

The genetic mutation that created blonde hair in Europe happened about 11,000 years ago, approximately during the last ice age.

While blonde hair is a recessive gene, it is not a disappearing gene. The World Health Organization and others erroneously published a report that claimed people with blonde hair would become extinct by 2202.

Scientists believe that blonde hair evolved in sun-deficient climates so that the body could synthesize vitamin D more efficiently.

Other scholars, such as anthropologist Peter Forst, claimed blonde hair evolved very quickly as a means of sexual selection. The blond hair and blue eyes of some northern European women made them more alluring to men.

Most researchers believe that blonde hair evolved more than once in different parts of the world. In fact, blonde hair is not found just in Northern Europe but also in Asia, eastern Afghanistan, northwestern Pakistan, Turkey, southwestern and northern Iran, Israel, western Syria, northern Iraq, Palestinian territories, Jordan, Lebanon, the Berbers in North Africa, and aboriginal Australia.

Interesting Blonde Beard Fact Blonde beards grow faster than darker beards Blond beards grow faster than dark beards.

The blonde stereotype has been divided into three categories: 1) the ice-cold blonde (Grace Kelley), 2) the blonde bombshell (Brigitte Bardot), and 3) the dumb blonde (Marilyn Monroe).

The term “blonde” came from French and kept its masculine

and feminine forms; consequently, as a noun, “blond” is a fair-haired male, while “blonde” is a fair-haired female. However, when the word is used as an adjective, “blond” can be used for both males and females; however, “blonde” can also be used to describe a woman or girl with fair hair.

The “Dumb Blonde” joke may be rooted in the 1775 satirical play “Les curiosites de la Foire,” in which a blonde French courtesan named Rosalie Duthe is portrayed as being less than intelligent. Research indicates that blondes are viewed as less intelligent than women with darker hair. However, modern science shows that there is no evidence of intellectual differences based on hair color.

Dolly Parton’s 1967 song “Dumb Blonde” challenged the dumb blonde stereotype with its lyrics. She claimed that she is not offended by all the dumb blonde jokes because she is not dumb. And she is also not a true blonde.

Blonde women are more susceptible to age-related macular degeneration (AMD), an eye condition that can cause blindness.

Blondes produce less melanin, which leaves their skin more susceptible to skin cancer.

Interesting Blonde Hair Fact Research shows that guys prefer brunettes over blondes as long-term mates According to several surveys, men do not prefer blondes—at least not as serious mates. Men prefer brunettes as long-term partners because they view them as more reliable and steady.

A Lithuanian firm called Olialia (ooh-la-la) announced in 2010 that it was going to build a resort in the Maldives that would employ only blonde women. It will also have a special airline staffed by blondes only that would take customers to the island. The resort was scheduled to open in 2015.

Margaret Thatcher’s hair became more blond as she became more powerful.

This article was first published in 2016 in FactRetreiver and is reprinted with kind permission of the author, Karin Lehnardt.

Karin graduated with a BA and MA in English and Rhetoric from Brigham Young University and later worked towards a PhD at Northwestern University in Evanston, Illinois. She has been a university writing tutor and writing instructor for many years and loves researching, reading, writing, and discussing ideas.

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Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021 23

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24 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021

Everything You Always Wanted To Know About XFusion Hair Fibers

XFusion by Toppik™ is made with premium naturally derived keratin proteins that blend undetectably with strands, instantly concealing hair loss and building natural-looking thickness.

Since launching 30+ years ago, the Toppik brand has changed millions of people’s lives, giving them the confidence and youthful appearance that comes with having a thick head of hair.

XFusion by Toppik™ Keratin Hair Fibers are a cosmetic hair product that instantly conceal hair loss and leave hair looking naturally thicker. We sat down with Taryn Weinstock, Education Manager for XFusion by Toppik™ to get some of our questions answered and give you everything you need to know about their hair fibers.

What are the characteristics of a perfect fiber?

What are the things to beware of with low quality fibers?

Imitators made of lower-grade sources like cotton, plantbased materials and rayon do not have this natural static charge. Consequently, there is nothing attracting them to the hair, so they tend to clump, shift or fall onto the scalp and look unnatural resulting in a texture and appearance that lacks in comparison to the premium fibers found in XFusion

by Toppik™.

How much growing hair do you need for the fibers to be effective?

You cannot be bald and use fibers as you need some hair for the keratin fibers to stick to hair-shaft. XFusion by Toppik™ Hair Fibers are suitable for men and women of any hair type or hair texture.

What makes fibers stay in the hair?

Not all fibers are created equal. Toppik™ and XFusion by Toppik Hair Building Fibers are derived from a natural source. The premium Keratin is nearly identical to human hair which allows the fibers to blend naturally and undetectably.

The natural Keratin used by Toppik™ has an innate static charge that ensures Fibers adhere to any hair type.

These colored organic fibers are made of pure keratin protein – the same protein that makes up human hair. Thanks to their natural electromagnetic charge, Hair Building Fibers instantly and securely attach to existing hair to create the appearance of thicker, fuller hair.

Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021 25 Instagram – for color matching techniques @xfusionbytoppik, YouTube – Subscribe to XFusion by Toppik for ‘How To’ videos: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCn-s6PwKTcqgmQU7eR-krQg

How many colors are available?

XFusion by Toppik™ Hair Fibers come in nine color-matching shades to blend imperceptibly with your patient’s hair color.

How do you match colors if you have salt and pepper hair?

Colors can be blended for best results to match your current shade.

XFusion by Toppik™ Black and Grey and/or Black and White Fibers can be mixed for salt and pepper hair.

Can you play sports or sleep with hair fibers?

XFusion by Toppik™ innovative technology allows the Fibers to resist wind, rain and perspiration.

What happens if somebody runs their fingers through your hair?

Taryn Weinstock – Sales & Education Manager, Professional Beauty - With over 10 years of experience in the professional beauty industry, Taryn joined Viviscal Professional in 2016 prior to Church & Dwight purchasing the brand and has worked in several roles within the company both in the USA and Canada. Taryn began her career as an Editor at both beauty and lifestyle magazines in Toronto, Canada and prior to joining Viviscal she held positions as Marketing Manager with several beauty brands including Macadamia Beauty and Moroccanoil. She has made many contacts within the industry – professional beauty distributors, doctors, editors and stylists. Taryn holds a Bachelor’s degree from Concordia University in Montreal, Canada where she was born and raised and a Journalism degree from Ryerson University in Toronto. She currently resides in Miai159407610733_PhytoTress World Trichology Ad 7.06.20.pdf 1 7/6/2020 6:55:09 PM ami, FL with her husband and three children.

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You may see some fibers transfer onto your fingers but the XFusion by Toppik™ Fibers themselves will stay in place. For better hold and staying power, we recommend use the XFusion by Toppik™ Fiber Hold Spray.

®

Why did Church & Dwight purchase Toppik?

The Toppik™ acquisition broadened Church & Dwight’s capabilities in the Direct Consumer, Beauty Class of Trade and Professional Channel, allowing our brands to evolve with changing trends and reach consumers differently.

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Why does Church & Dwight offer a consumer and a professional hair fiber?

CM

MY

CY

In 2005, XFusion by Toppik™ was created—the first and only professional line of products to cosmetically address stylists concerns for their clients with fine or thinning hair. Our fibers have been professionally calibrated and tested based on stylist and colorist feedback to perfectly match your client’s or patient’s hair.

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26 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021

DUSTING AWAY DANDRUFF Zinc pyrithione shampoos tower above other antifungals for keeping dandruff at bay, an A*STAR study finds.

There’s an unlikely culprit behind the itchy, flaky scalp condition better known as dandruff. It is caused by a yeast species known as Malassezia, the dominant member of an extensive community of fungi in human skin, also known as the mycobiome.

soothing the itch of dandruff for decades. These formulations contain a range of active ingredients, most commonly zinc pyrithione. Exactly how these chemicals impact the mycobiome to alleviate dandruff has, until now, left scientists scratching their heads.

When resident scalp Malassezia feast on sebum, the oily substance produced by hair follicles, they break the sebum down and release free fatty acids. In some individuals, the fatty acids can trigger skin inflammation and hyperproliferation, leading to dandruff.

In collaboration with members of the international Malassezia Research Consortium, Dawson’s team tested shampoos containing various antifungal agents on the scalp mycobiomes of 35 study participants. They used the gold standard assay—the antifungal susceptibility test, or AFST—alongside fungal culture and genomic techniques to track changes in the growth dynamics of Malassezia for two weeks post-treatment.

“Frequently, our normal, commensal fungal flora exist happily on most of us. In some people, however, they induce disorders like dandruff,” explained Thomas Dawson, a hair and scalp expert and Senior Principal Investigator at the Skin Research Institute of Singapore (SRIS), a tripartite collaboration involving A*STAR, NTU, and Singapore’s National Healthcare Group.

Thankfully, over-the-counter medicated shampoos have been

Studying the scalp mycobiome proved to be a slippery task with the researchers facing several experimental hurdles. For one, oil and water don’t mix. Most antimicrobial assays such as the AFST are water-based, but Malassezia aren’t. “The big issue with antifungal susceptibility testing is that Malassezia are lipid-lovers. They live in sebum, a strongly hydrophobic

Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021 27 environment, and most testing is done in water,” said Dawson, who was the corresponding author on the study.

There were also other logistical problems that made compliance difficult. For example, getting the participants to comply with the study’s strict shampooing regimens was a challenge, as some of them had to avoid washing their hair for up to two days.

Ultimately, zinc pyrithione was found to be superior to other antifungals for keeping dandruff-causing Malassezia at bay.

“The optimal antifungal performance of zinc pyrithione shampoos is when they are used every other day,” recommends Dawson.

Follow-up studies will take a deep dive into how the mycobiome influences skin biology. “This should help us learn what Malassezia are doing on the skin and how to potentially intervene with non-antifungal technologies,” he said.

This article was made for A*STAR Research by Wildtype Media Group. The A*STAR-affiliated researchers contributing to this research are from the Skin Research Institute of Singapore (SRIS).

References: Leong, C., Wang, J., Toi, M.J., Lam, Y.I., Goh,

J.P.Z., et al. Effect of zinc pyrithione shampoo treatment on skin commensal Malassezia. Medical Mycology 0, 1-4 (2020) | article About the Researcher - Thomas Dawson, Senior Principal Investigator Skin Research Institute of Singapore Thomas Dawson earned his PhD in pharmacology from the University of North Carolina in 1994. He then joined the Duke University Medical Center from 1994-1996 as a Pediatric Clinical Medical Genetics Fellow. From 19982015 he worked in Procter & Gamble’s Beauty Technology Division, before joining A*STAR’s Institute of Medical Biology (IMB) to develop and lead translational programs in hair and scalp biology.

In 2018, Dawson moved to the Skin Research Institute of Singapore (SRIS), where he is currently a Senior Principal Investigator. Dawson has over 30 years of research experience in end-to-end drug discovery, 30 granted patents, multiple products in the market, and a unique background in skin, hair and microbiome research.

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28 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021

More About Stem Cells Technology drives the future of personal care industry

While other markets reel from the Covid-19 pandemic, the personal care and beauty markets continue their solid growth, with premium brands leading the way. The global beauty market expanded by a full 6% in 2018, reaching $320 billion in retail sales

Technology is playing a major part in this growth with medical research, artificial intelligence and social media playing a key role.

Consumers are also looking for more personalized therapies and solutions. A good example is NeoGenesis.

NeoGenesis is a US company in the business of providing skin care and hair care products that enhance people’s quality of life by returning their skin and hair to glowing health. Their products help the skin rebalance and heal itself naturally through patented stem cell technology.

Their science enables them to harvest an array of molecules from multiple stem cell types. These molecules are the same molecules the skin produces in greater abundance when it is young and healthy, and when applied to aged, damaged skin return the skin to a healthier, more youthful state.

Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021 29 These molecules are packaged in, and protected by, exosomes.

Exosomes are naturally produced by the stem cell to carry these molecules to the areas of the skin that need them most.

Exosomes house their own intelligence and are superior to liposomes for several reasons that are explained in this video.

The combination of the molecules and the exosome delivery system make Neogenesis products some of the most natural products on the market.

These molecules are complimented by a host of other ingredients that your skin needs to nourish itself for rebalanced skin, scientifically known as “Homeostasis Restoration”.

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To learn more about the research and science behind the Neogensis hair and skin care products, Hair Authority reached out to Greg Maguire, Ph.D., Neogenesis Founder & Chief Scientific Officer Dr. Maguire, with more than 30 years of stem cell research, was a part of the science teams that ultimately created a number of the earlier generation stem cell products in the skin care market. This latest technology has benefited tens of thousands of people around the world. Dr. McGuire recorded a brief video for Hair Authority readers which we have made available on YouTube.

Dr. Maguire pursued his graduate training at the University of California, Berkeley, University of Houston, University of Texas, The Marine Biological Labs, Woods Hole, MA, and Cold Spring Harbor Laboratory, NY. He is a former professor of neuroscience and ophthalmology at the University of California, San Diego School of Medicine, a visiting associate professor of physiology at Keio University School of Medicine in Tokyo, Japan, visiting assistant professor of molecular neurobiology at the University of Washington, and a visiting scientist at Massachusetts General Hospital (MGH), at Harvard University.

Awarded a prestigious Fulbright-Fogarty Fellowship from the National Institutes of Health, Dr. Maguire managed his NIH funded laboratory at UCSD studying tissue degeneration and regeneration, and the role of stem cell released molecules (SRM) through paracrine and autocrine actions to maintain, repair, and regenerate human tissues. His NIH funded studies of systems biology and reverse engineering at the University of California, Berkeley and stem cell biology at UC San Diego led to the development of adult stem cell-based S²RM® technology for the development of therapeutics and medical procedures.

Dr. Maguire has over 100 publications and is currently working on his book entitled, “Spontaneous Stem Cell Healing”

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30 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021

Tips from a Top Dating Site

Keep Your Hair Long Zoosk is an online dating site and mobile app with 40 million users in over 80 countries. Subscribers are split evenly between men and women.

Uploading personal information is easy. Zoosk takes your profile from the social media accounts you’ve already created and integrates it into your new Zoosk account.

There are plenty of other dating apps out there like Hinge, eHarmony, OkCupid, Tinder, Bumble, Plenty of Fish and Match, but Zoosk uses its 40 million users to get interesting feedback on things that get will make you more attractive.

Hair is the first thing men notice in a woman A 2013 survey revealed that 89 percent of men said that hair is the first thing they notice in a woman!

This was surprising since 71 percent of the women surveyed said that they don’t expect potential suitors to even notice their hair.

What hair style was preferred? According to the Zoosk survey, most men prefer women to wear their hair down.

This confirms another study conducted by Little research that explored the effect of women’s hairstyles on people’s behavior.

In their study, male and female pedestrians were observed while walking behind a woman who dropped a glove and apparently was unaware of her loss.

In three separate experiments, the woman wore her long dark hair in different hairstyles: once with her hair falling naturally on her shoulders, then with her hair in a ponytail, and finally with her hair twisted in a bun.

These hairstyles had no effect on other women, but men were more likely to assist a woman with the longer hair that fell naturally on her shoulders and back.

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Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021 31

European News HAIR LOSS RESEARCH AND THE OUTLOOK FOR 2021 This article outlines the status of some of the most significant hair loss treatments being developed in 2021. Keep in mind that hair growth remedies and treatments don’t actually exist. All studies are about preserving hair that is still present. Regrowth can only take place if healthy hair follicles are still present or if there is an underlying medical condition that can be reversed.

Samumed - The San Diego-based biotech of Turkish origin, Samumed, currently owns the most advanced drug for hair loss problems. Samumed’s wnt activator SM04554 is undergoing a phase 3 clinical trial in Turkey with an estimated completion date of January 2021, according to the clinicaltrials.gov page. While the drug is not intended to be a powerhouse, it may be a valuable add-on treatment or alternative to currently approved drugs if approved.

SM04554. Breezula - This androgen receptor antagonist from Cassiopea is currently the second most advanced drug in the hair growth industry. A phase 3 study was expected in 2020, but due to the unexpected events of 2020, the study was postponed and is expected to start in the first half of 2021. Cassiopea also has an ongoing Phase 2 study for female patients using Breezula that is expected to report data in the second quarter of 2021..

Follicum - Another late-stage topical drug, FOL-005 from Follicum, will report key phase 2 trial results in the spring of 2021. This study is especially important for Follicum as it is the first time that the peptide FOL-005 has been topically tested on androgenic alopecia patients (hereditary hair loss). before a larger industry partner comes along to bring the drug to market for approval in a pivotal phase 3 trial.

Shiseido - Shiseido’s surprising follow-up trial of RCH-01 is expected to end in the fourth quarter of 2021, but there is no guarantee we will see the data next year. This time, the trial involves multiple injections of dermal sheath cup cells over 12 months. Hopefully, meaningful results will be seen this time.

HairClone - While HairClone will not technically offer a treatment itself in 2021, it is largely certain that the company will be ready to supply cultured / expanded dermal papilla cells to doctors in the UK who can use the cells to treat pa-

tients in 2021. A few timely government grants in 2020 were able to keep HairClone afloat and move towards their goal of human application in 2021.

Kintor - As of December 29, 2020, Kintor has completed enrollment in a Phase 2 clinical trial testing 120 male patients in China. The trial involves multiple dose cohorts and is conducted over a 6-month period. According to Kintor’s latest press release, “The Group expects to complete the clinical study report (CSR) and release the data for the phase II clinical trial in 2021 and a phase III clinical trial (for pyrilutamide) in the second half of 2021 to start.” Kintor sounds great at the moment, let’s hope they live up to their forecasts.

Stemson - While a clinical trial for Stemson is possible in 2021, it’s more likely we’ll get a timeline for a clinical trial with Stemson sometime in 2021. Stemson is the only current active hair augmentation company in the US and has recently made a $ 7.5 million investment from Allergan and a UK firm to get their program started.

Triple Hair TH16 - The all-natural OTC (over-the-counter) in the Triple Hair pipeline. TH16, is expected to be released in the first quarter of 2021, according to the company’s website. According to the company, TH16 outperformed 5% minoxidil in human patients in a self-sponsored clinical trial.

While specific details have not been disclosed, some decent looking photos were shared in an exclusive article in ‘Follicle Thought’. The main ingredients of TH16 are said to be reservol and melatonin, two compounds that have been shown to support hair growth in laboratory studies. The formula is marketed for both men and women. Stay tuned for further updates direct from Triple Hair Management in Q1 2021.

University of Wisconsin Hair Cap - In September 2019, news came out from the University of Wisconsin that a unique new wearable device could become a new useful treatment for hair growth. No news up to now.

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32 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021

Cannabis Increases Hair Growth A recent report “Hair Regrowth with Cannabidiol (CBD) - Rich Hemp Extract” published in peer reviewed journal, “Cannabis”, indicates that CBD contributes to increased hair growth. The following is a brief extract.

Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is the most common cause of hair loss. Several FDA approved medications are available but offer limited results. Studies have shown that the endocannabinoid system (ECS) is a key player in hair follicle cell growth.

A study was done of 35 subjects with AGA using a once daily topical hemp oil formulation, averaging about 3-4 mg per day of CBD and minimal amounts of other cannabinoids for six months. A hair count of the greatest area of alopecia was carried out before treatment and again after six months.

The results revealed that men did slightly better than women, and the vertex area did better than the temporal areas. On average, there was statistically significant 93.5% increase in hair after 6 months. All subjects had some regrowth.

There were no reported adverse effects. Since the CBD works through novel mechanisms different from finasteride and minoxidil, it can be used in conjunction with these current drugs and would be expected to have synergistic effects.

Androgenetic Alopecia (AGA) is a very common condition, that occurs in both men and women, and increases in prevalence with age. It is by far the most common cause of baldness and hair thinning. It generally starts in the third and fourth decades of life and significantly increases in prevalence in women after menopause. It is estimated that 50% of Caucasian men and 19% of Caucasian women are affected by age 50 (Shankar et al., 2009). There is a lower prevalence and severity of the condition in Asian and black men.

AGA may adversely impact a person both psychologically and socially, especially in women (Levy & Emer, 2013). The condition is characterized by follicular miniaturization in a specific pattern due to the effects of systemic androgens and

genetic factors (Salman et al., 2017). In the male pattern phenotype, the hairline at the bi-temporal regions and at the vertex. In the female pattern then is a diffuse thinning with preservation of the frontal hairline. However, the pathogenesis is the same (Levy & Emer, 2013). AGA develops due to a disturbance in the cyclic transformation of hair follicles from active hair shaft growth and pigment production (anagen) to apoptosis-driven (cell death) hair follicle involution (catagen).

Table 1. Subject Change in Hair Count Over Six Months Patient Age Sex Area 1 47 M T 2 34 M T 3 28 M T 4 56 M T 5 35 M T 6 29 M T 7 34 M T 8 51 M T 9 63 M T 10 29 M T 11 36 M T 12 55 M V 13 37 M V 14 29 M V 15 34 M V 16 51 M V 17 48 M V 18 59 M V 19 29 M V 20 38 M V 21 56 M V 22 35 M V 23 46 M V 24 72 M V 25 42 M V 26 60 M V 27 42 M V 28 30 M V 29 56 F T 30 66 F T 31 71 F T 32 46 F T 33 64 F V 34 76 F V 35 49 F V Note. T = Temporal; V = Vertex.

Baseline 23 33 22 6 16 38 12 18 16 15 28 8 36 22 19 18 14 12 18 22 18 22 12 12 12 12 24 4 32 19 22 8 19 18 19

6 Months After 45 51 31 11 28 56 46 27 16 23 37 22 41 61 36 27 64 23 26 28 31 39 23 33 23 27 38 17 51 27 29 15 29 36 27

Difference 22 18 9 5 12 18 34 9 0 8 9 14 5 39 17 9 50 11 8 6 13 17 11 21 11 15 14 13 19 8 7 7 10 18 8

Change(%) 95.7 54.5 40.9 83.3 75 47.4 283.3 50 0 53.3 32.1 175 13.9 177.3 89.5 50 357.1 91.7 44.4 27.3 72.2 77.3 91.7 175 91.7 125 58.3 325 59.4 42.1 31.8 87.5 52.6 100 42.1

“Cannabis” is an open access peer-reviewed journal dedicated to the scientific study of marijuana/cannabis from a multidisciplinary perspective. Consistent with the mission of the Research Society on Marijuana (RSMj), the journal publishes empirical research of the determinants, correlates, consequences, contexts, and assessment of marijuana use.

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Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021 33

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34 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021

Hair Loss at the White House Former and Current Presidents Share Common Bond

by John Vincent When most people were focused on security, Covid, and the politics of the new administration, your intrepid reporter was looking at the inauguration from another perspective...the top.

While Joe Biden gave his acceptance speech, my eyes were drawn to his Jill Biden who was looking down intently from a row above the new president as he was delivering a speech on worldwide TV. Could she have been thinking, “Couldn’t they have used some hair spray to tame those wispy sprigs blowing in the wind? “ Right!

And at the same time as we witnessed this display of out-ofcontrol hair, we encountered a new milestone in follicular history:

This was the first transfer of power between two US presidents with a hair transplant.

This was the first transfer of power between two US presidents with a hair transplant.

The cosmetic surgery by these two men is explained in my book, Hair Loss Dossier, The Big Lie on the Causes, Cures,

Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021 35 Treatments and Scams (on Amazon). My source of this closecropped secret of the commanders-in-chief came from a hair surgeon colleague whom I reached out to when I previously wrote about former President Donald Trump’s unusual hairstyle. After Trump’s election, there was much chatter about his extreme style, and this doctor knew whom the then-media star had gone to for hair transplantation years ago, but asked I not unmask him.

Since this became such a talking point for his critics, I felt observations on my part (pardon the pun) were in order… to explain Trump’s rather elaborate hair disguise. So many people loved to make fun of his hair and cartoonist, Gary Trudeau, was so brutal in his attack on President Trump’s idiosyncrasies (and hair) that he actually published a book about them.

However, the “combover” regimen that our last President perfected is one that’s also implemented by many other men whose hair is more plentiful on the sides than it is on the top. The idea is to “borrow” from the perimeter and combit-over the top. You can find a diagram of this technique in my book.

(Right now, you are no doubt thinking: “Vincent is obsessed with hair” … and you would be right!

With 35 years’ experience in the field of hair loss and restoration prompted by a personal concern, I clearly look at the world from different perspectives. Initially from the viewpoint of a personal hair replacement need, John Vincent and later, based on my decision to embark on a career of studying the causes of hair loss and advising others.

This was not an altruistic endeavor, as I have had some financial success speaking, writing and operating clinics to treat hair loss. In fact, to this day, I enjoy referring men and women who could benefit from a medical professional to colleagues I know will provide the best results. As a prior customer of most methods …and a patient of hair restoration surgery, I take a personal interest in these cases.

Men are impatient. When they decide it is time to “fix” their hair loss problem, they expect immediate results and little maintenance. They will look to find a contractor to rectify the problem once and for all. To them it is like hiring a plumber to repair a leaky faucet.

Consequently, there are many examples of men who made

hasty decisions and were not satisfied with the outcome.

From my experience “I hold these truths to be self-evident” Choosing the wrong hair surgeon, for example can be a major problem, as well as one that compromises their existing hair. Several stories in my book, explain what can, and has, happened. For example, we have all been exposed to the unnatural hairline of a U.S. Senator Chuck Schumer. His hair begins too abruptly at a point on the forehead where a recession of thinning hair would be expected. Tip: a typical hairline begins gradually after the last wrinkle in the forehead. The Senator exhibits a thick crop of hair, several inches behind where it would be typically found in nature.

Worse, another mistake made by practicing surgeons in the 80’s, was to perform a surgical technique known as “strip grafting”. A well-known screen actor I see from time to time is a victim of this procedure. He has a conspicuous thick “patch” of hair on the forehead (again, not a gradual, receding hairline). This crop was incised from an area of hair above and behind the ear, which was rotated and implanted across the forehead. Not only does the strip have no natural recession, but it also conspicuous as a patch of carpeting that is turned 90 degrees from its surroundings! (This extreme technique may be called for in cases of unusual scalp injuries or the results of brain surgery but are rarely appropriate for the typical pattern-baldness patient.)

Women are more realistic and pragmatic in their efforts to deal with cosmetic changes. They learn early on that maintaining a healthy appearance takes time and maintenance to offset the advance of aging. A trip to the cosmetic aisle in your local pharmacy illustrates this point. Yards-long aisles shelve beauty products, shampoos, hair styling products, color, etc. The variety of hair care options in stores and online, testify to the great expense and time women will take to correct a perception of lost beauty.

Women will spend whatever it takes to maintain the look of full healthy hair. This expectation has spawned a multi-billion- dollar worldwide beauty business that keeps salons and products makers in a lucrative business.

For more about the good, bad, and the ugly, and for straightforward information about hair loss options, read or listen to my book on Amazon. One story reports the success of a hair loss treatment product company that ultimately sold for hundreds of millions of dollars, but, as the founder admitted, it was formulated with no research or approval for actual results!

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36 Hair Authority Spring/Summer 2021

PBA FIGHTS TO KEEP WEST VIRGINIA PROFESSIONAL! 02, 21, Scottsdale, AZ - The Professional Beauty Association (PBA), the largest and most inclusive national trade organization representing manufacturers, distributors, salon and spa business owners, and licensed beauty professionals, is strongly opposing House Bill 2325 which would deregulate licensing for hair, skin and nail services in West Virginia. This bill has been fast tracked without a thorough understanding of what this means for both the professional beauty industry and consumers.

House Bill 2325 was substituted on February 22 to prevent the Board of Barbers and Cosmetologists from regulating the use, application, or administration, by unlicensed persons whether for compensation or not of hair, nail, skin, and other beauty products that are commonly available as retail, consumer products.

Salons throughout the United States were shut down due to COVID and many are still only open with a reduced capacity due to health and safety. HB 2325 disregards these measures. West Virginia’s phase two reopening plan placed a standard of protocols to re-open and operate safely. As part of the WV reopening plan the following is stated:

“It is acknowledged that all services within the [beauty] industry carry some risk in this viral environment due to the nature of the services provided and the inability to maintain social distancing. With that said, licensed or certified professionals have been trained to mitigate these risks significantly through the use of proper infection control standards required by the state regulatory licensing rules and regulations.”

Small businesses in the professional beauty industry are looking for support, especially as they continue to try to recover from the devastating impact of COVID- 19. Licensed beauty

professionals’ education and training are more important now than ever as their mandated education allows them to provide a safe salon environment and safe services to clients.

Instead of supporting the recovery of small beauty businesses, 73% of which are owned by women, House Bill 2325 will ignore training and education that keeps clients safe by allowing anyone that can purchase a beauty product to provide beauty services for compensation. The mandatory training and education that is required in all fifty states for licensed beauty professionals is in place to protect clients from the spread of bacteria and diseases.

We need your support! Please help us oppose this bill and take action to send a notice to your legislator*. Visit probeauty.org for more details. *Please note only West Virginia residents may take action on this alert. The messages are editable and may be changed to reflect your role in opposing the legislation. You may also change the email subject line and we encourage you to do so.

Please share this campaign with your friends and family.

About The Professional Beauty Association - The Professional Beauty Association (PBA) is the largest and most inclusive trade organization representing the entire beauty industry.

PBA exists to elevate, unite and serve the beauty industry and the professionals who improve people’s lives and is the only national organization to represent the entire beauty industry.

Our members include manufacturers, distributors, salons, spas, schools, independent practitioners, students and industry suppliers. PBA is dedicated to advocating and fighting for the rights of the beauty industry, enhancing professionalism, and committed to the long-term success of the stylist and the businesses that employ and support them. For more information on membership levels and dues please visit: www. probeauty.org/join.