IHA Winter 2020-21

MARKETING

RESEARCH CBD Insights from Dr. G. Smith Pg. 20

WELLNESS

Pandemic PAI Still Thriving Pg. 10

DRUG

Stress and hair

Drug or Cosmeuceutical?

Pg. 24

Pg. 29

International Hair Authority Volume 27 No 86

The Profesional Publication of Hair Replacement & Restoration

TM

Winter 2020/21

It Can Happen to Anyone! Please be safe

Despite prescreening his patients, a plastic surgeon in Beverly Hills has died from COVID-19. Dr. Simoni was performing a simple cosmetic procedure when she unexpectedly coughed. The doctor was wearing a mask and his patient had been temperature checked and filled out a COVID questionnaire, but after returning home, she called to say new test results indicated she was positive for Covid 19. At the start of the pandemic, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention put a stop to elective surgeries, but in May, they relaxed these guidelines in response to clinics that wanted to offer these procedures again.

ZeroT Laser Seeks Funding on Indiegogo ZeroT has three 20-minute modes of care— red light, blue light, and dual mode. The red light (650nm) penetrates the scalp to stimulate nutrient flow to the hair follicles while blue light (405nm) eliminates unnecessary oils and germs.

Dual mode allows total care with ten minutes of red light followed by ten minutes of blue light. ZeroT also has three intensity levels.

ZeroT Cap’s Early Bird reward price is $140.

Men’s Beauty Spending Rising Allied Market Research reports that the Men’s personal care market is expected to reach $166 billion by 2022, registering a CAGR of 5.4% during the forecast period 2016 to 2022. Men’s personal care products included cosmetic, lifestyle and personal hygiene products. Skin care is the dominant category, though hair care is showing significant growth. A separate 2018 study by the American Med Spa Association found that “men outspent women by 30%”and predicted that “by 2030 millennial men would make up 30% of the medical spa market.”

COVID-19 Patients Can Suffer Hair Loss After 3 Months Asian countries have been applauded for their proactive role in tracking and halting the spread of the COVID-19 pandemic, particularly Singapore and South Korea. But reports in The Korea Herald suggest that despite these efforts, some patients have experienced side effects such as hair loss, fatigue and decreased breathing capacity months after they recovered from the infection according to a survey of 40 recovered coronavirus patients by the Korea Disease Control and Prevention Agency. This may be due to lowered immunity, medication and stress.

Coming & Going Hair Removal Market Growing Felton, CA - The global Hair Removal Products Market is projected to reach USD 3.2 billion by 2025, according to a report by Million Insights. Increasing awareness about personal grooming, rising spending on individual hygiene and growing need to enhance aesthetic appeal are major factors. The emergence of metrosexual culture led to a rise in the number of men focusing on personal grooming. Women held the largest hair removal products market share in 2018, however, the men segment is anticipated to grow faster at a CAGR of 5.8% during the forecast period. Million Insights is a distributor of market research

PBA Survey Shows Salons are Safe Salons across the country increased safety protocols to safeguard against the spread of infection These efforts paid off; there is no evidence that salons contribute to the spread of COVID-19. 2,532 salons participated in the survey. Of the 2 million+ clients, only 0.07% reported testing positive for COVID-19 within 14 days of visiting a salon.

2 Hair Authority Winter 2020/21

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Editorial But also a Legend - It was heartening to see magazines and broadcasters remember Hair Club founder and industry icon, Sy Sperling in their New Year issues. The New York Times in particular paid homage to its homeboy in their magazine supplement, “Sperling’s contribution was baldness’s last truly great innovation. Not since he humbly, cheerfully declared his own client status and led the way to the promised land of dignified hairedness has anyone else been brave enough to speak up on the bald’s behalf.”

Teleconsulting has always made good sense for the personal care market, but it took the pandemic to remind us. What could be better than a private conversation with a hair loss professional from the comfort of your own home? No more irksome travel and parking. No more concern about a friend or neighbor seeing you coming out of a hair replacement studio.

And no more embarrassment about finding a reason for leaving if you could not afford a hair system or procedure. Yes, teleconsulting is here to stay, but what about those support services? Well, many clients and patients have tried caring for their hair at home - for the most part unsuccessfully. But some will have done OK and now like the monthly cost saving. So how do you bring them back into your studio or clinic and make them feel that your services are necessary?

By demonstrating knowledge and skills that they could not achieve alone. For medical assistants and doctors, this is easy.

For cosmetologists it’s a different game. That’s where trichology comes in. I view trichology as the place where medicine and cosmetology come together. Trichology teaches you how to spot and diagnose different hair conditions. How to use special tools to examine the scalp and test the hair; things people can’t do at home. It allows you to share new insights with and recommend new solutions. Yes, it will take time and money to get that first trichology qualification, but it will give you an advertising and marketing platform that will pay for itself. To help you explore your options, Hair Authority has created a special section on its website that lists the top trichology organizations and invited them to share news about their courses and events, so do check them out at https://hairauthority/trichology.

Chris Webb

Hair Authority Winter 2020/21 3

HAIR VISIONS - An Open Letter As we embark on a new year with its own set of exciting opportunities and challenges, we have to come to the realization that much of what undermined us in 2020 followed us into 2021. The fact of the matter is that we are still in the midst of a global pandemic that has and continues to cause major disruptions to supply chains in many industries beyond our control. The hair industry is not mutually exclusive to the adverse effects of the pandemic and labor shortage. On a positive note, our Indonesian factory continues to press forward with incremental progress in stock and custom production. The factory expects to increase production every month as they hire and train more workers. We are and will continue to pursue every available avenue to locate and acquire suitable stock units for your client’s immediate needs.

As much as I would like to have more good news to deliver, unfortunately, there has been very little improvement with production in the Chinese factories as the remote knotting areas are still in lockdown and we have been informed of their pending price increase effective April.Hair Visions and its team understands entirely the situations for all businesses and families are difficult during these trying times. Like you, our company struggles to work around the many challenges that face us because they are beyond our control. Despite all the obstacles ahead of us, we all must concentrate on how to endure and focus on what we can control.

Please understand, the cost of labor and materials is not in the control of any distributor. Price increases have already been announced by many distributors to their retailers as we’ve stated before, Hair Visions was absorbing many costs on your behalf, but we can no longer continue to absorb the factory increases. We recently announced a price increase effective April 1. Contrary to what you might think, rest assured, we are not increasing our prices for the sake of profits.

We are passing along factory increases out of fiscal necessity.

We will continue pursuing other factories to prototype stock models in an effort to increase our inventory. However, this has been a complex and lengthy process. For the sake of transparency, we suggest being proactive with your team and clients alike. Ongoing communication and education with your staff and your clients are vital. Offering facts in an open dialogue regarding the delays and price increases can help ease future misunderstandings and prevent further frustration. We will continue to keep you posted with updates as we learn more. Thank you for your understanding of the unprecedented situation and we appreciate your patience as Hair Visions storms through the uncharted course together with you.

David Schwartz President, CEO

4 Hair Authority Winter 2020/21

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Hair Authority Winter 2020/21 5

Viviscal Offers an At-Home Solution for Patients with Hair Loss

drug-free formula that has no known side effects. However, Viviscal PRO is not recommended for anyone under the age of 18, pregnant or nursing women, or anyone with a shellfish or seafood allergy.

Viviscal PRO can also be used to boost the results of other hair loss solutions like laser therapy, PRP, and even hair transplants. Viviscal PRO has zero contraindications with other hair therapies and surgeries. In fact

Due to the current pandemic, many patients are wary of undergoing in-office hair loss treatments. So what advice can you give to patients who want a solution for hair thinning or hair loss without leaving home? Keep reading to find out.

Nourish from the Inside Out

An easy way that patients can boost hair growth at home is to take Viviscal PRO. Viviscal PRO is a drug-free hair growth supplement that is clinically proven to provide results for both women and men. Viviscal PRO’s unique and potent formula includes key ingredients that hair follicles need to grow healthy hair including biotin, vitamin C, apple extract, and amino acids.

What separates Viviscal PRO from other hair supplements is its exclusive active ingredient, AminoMar® Marine Complex.

This proprietary ingredient was first developed in the 1980s by a Scandinavian scientist who noticed that Inuit people tend to have healthy skin and hair thanks to their fish- and protein-rich diet. AminorMar® was created by isolating the particular proteins that are responsible for healthy hair growth. When paired with other hair-supporting ingredients, AminoMar® promotes noticeably improved hair growth in as little as three months.

Viviscal PRO is Backed by Science

Viviscal PRO is proven to work, with ten published clinical trials demonstrating its efficacy. In the latest clinical trials, participants taking Viviscal PRO saw a 57% increase in the number of terminal hairs versus vellus hairs after three months. After six months, users saw an 80% increase in their terminal hair count.

Unlike other hair loss treatments, Viviscal PRO has a safe,

Viviscal actually enhances the results of hair loss solutions like laser therapy, PRP, and hair transplants.

Manufactured with Safety & Sustainability in Mind

Viviscal is made with the utmost care by Church & Dwight using sustainable packaging and safe manufacturing processes. Church & Dwight is dedicated to making great, effective products in facilities with robust environmental, healthy, and safety performance. Church & Dwight works towards this high-performance culture by adhering to well-established principles defined by the company’s environmental and safety policies.

Pair with XFusion for Instant Results

Viviscal PRO works in as little as three months. However, many patients are looking for a solution that can immediately address their thinning hair or hair loss. For patients seeking an instant cosmetic solution, we recommend XFusion Hair Building Fibers. These colored organic fibers are made of pure keratin protein – the same protein that makes up human hair. Thanks to their natural electromagnetic charge, Hair Building Fibers instantly and securely attach to existing hair to create the appearance of thicker, fuller hair. XFusion Hair Fibers come in nine color-matching shades to blend imperceptibly with your patient’s hair color.

When used together, Viviscal and XFusion Hair Building Fibers work synergistically to create fuller-looking, healthier hair in both the short term and the long term.

For further questions, reach out to Viviscal Pro’s customer service team via www.vxprohair.com or through The Hair Authority Store.

6 Hair Authority Winter 2020/21 When you look good, you feel good. And we can all agree that feeling good is important right now! Following these suggestions will help your clients to treat hair loss without leaving home, so they can both look better and feel better while staying safe.

Taryn Weinstock – Sales & Education Manager, Professional Beauty - With over 10 years of experience in the professional beauty industry, Taryn joined Viviscal Professional in 2016 prior to Church & Dwight purchasing the brand and has worked in several roles within the company both in the USA and Canada.

Taryn began her career as an Editor at both beauty and lifestyle magazines in Toronto, Canada and prior to joining Viviscal she held positions as Marketing Manager with several beauty brands including Macadamia Beauty and Moroccanoil. She has made many contacts within the industry – professional beauty distributors, doctors, editors and stylists.

Taryn holds a Bachelors degree from Concordia University in Montreal, Canada where she was born and raised and a Journalism degree from Ryerson University in Toronto. She currently resides in Miami, FL with her husband and three children.

IHA

How To Cut Hair At Home

HomeHairCuts.com gives instructions Professional hair cutting instructor Steven Woodham has been teaching how to cut hair for over 20 years. He is now offering a full length video tutorial along with an accompanying workbook to help people cut their own hair at home.

‘gold’ standard scissors.

With many Americans remaining at home during the current pandemic, a master barber and hairstylist in Surprise Ariz. has come up with a concept that teaches people how to cut hair at home in a complete package that includes a full length video, a companion pdf workbook and state of art

This new concept can save parents-especially parents with large families-a lot of money by no longer having to take their children to the barbershop or beauty salon. “Protect your family from exposure to Covid. Now you can cut hair at home like a pro.”

The video is guaranteed to teach you how to cut any style hair. The secrets that professionals use are all here in this easy to understand full length video,” says Steven Woodham, producer of https://homehaircuts.com.

Scissors are the most essential tool for haircutting. Woodham has used special scissors for many years and emphasizes that

the one he offers are the best in the haircutting profession.

“One important fact is that these scissors are razor sharp and have serrated blades. What this means is that there are tiny notches in the cutting blade that grasp whatever hair that slip. The result is a cleaner, smoother more precise cut.” he said, “This is a high quality shear that has a forged steel frame handle and a beveled edge. It is unlike other shears. You have to use one to appreciate it. It is an extremely high quality shear tempered and ground to perfection to hold a superior cutting edge,” Woodham explained. “The unique scissors boasts a hammered gunmetal 7 inch shank with a finger rest and polished blade made from the finest steel. Woodham describes the scissors as a “soft cutting sheer that cuts with a feel of shaving off hair with a razor.”

The full length video tutorial is a lengthy 75 minutes long.

By watching this video, you will learn the basic techniques of cutting hair. “Even though different style and fashions come and go, the fundamental techniques of cutting hair do not change,” says Woodham.

Homehaircuts.com is selling the entire package of deluxe scissors, full length tutorial video and companion pdf workbook at the site https://homehaircuts.com.

IHA

Hair Authority Winter 2020/21 7

Science + Aesthetics PROVEN NON-SURGICAL SOLUTIONS FOR THINNING HAIR Science meets aesthetics to give your patients something new: a complete system that targets thinning hair inside and out. While clinically proven ViviscalTM PRO Supplements promote existing hair growth in 6 months, XFusionTM by ToppikTM Keratin Hair Fibers conceal thinning hair instantly. Together, they offer the perfect complement to your hair loss treatments and procedures, giving patients the short-term and long-term solutions that they need to fight the effects of hair loss and boost their confidence.*

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ViviscalTM PRO Supplements • Over 25 Years & 10 Published Trials • Clinically Proven

Customer Service (800) 277-3316 VIVISCALPROFESSIONAL.COM XFUSIONHAIR.COM Materials of Church & Dwight, Co. Inc., the makers of Viviscal™ and XFusion™ by Toppik™. Copyright© 2019 Church & Dwight Co., Inc. All rights reserved. * These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. This product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.

8 Hair Authority Winter 2020/21

Hair Authority Winter 2020/21 9

10 Hair Authority Winter 2020/21

Still Thriving!

How One Company Is Beating the Pandemic It’s been a tough year. Customers have lost their jobs and income. Businesses are holding on by their fingernails. Hair salons and clinics are being forced to close their doors, and hair factories and their ventilating centers worldwide are shut. And yet the hair replacement industry is still standing. In fact, some centers are thriving in spite of everything. What is the secret? To find out, Hair Authority met with Pierre Amelotte, founder and president of PAI Medical Group, a company that continues to grow and prosper.

Hair Authority: COVID-19 obviously presented you

with huge challenges that required fundamental changes in the way you do business. How did PAI respond?

Pierre: Of course, we

had to adapt to new screening and safety procedures for people coming into our facilities.

But over and above that, it caused us to look at the way we were doing busiPierre Amelotte, CEO ness. I really wouldn’t have dreamt this, but Covid has actually benefitted us. Why? Because today people are working from home. They’re sitting at their desk, doing Zoom conferencing and they’re actually seeing themselves as they really are on their camera or computer. It’s caused people to say, “Wait a second. I

didn’t think my hair looked like that. I didn’t think I looked that old.” They’re shocked and they want an answer.

We’ve been able to respond to this because we’re able to do virtual consultations that lead them to discuss their options without any inconvenience or embarrassment and reach the point where they want to come into our centers’ facilities and explore things further. It’s called the Zoom-boom of cosmetic surgeries.

I asked our accountant to bring out the numbers, in terms of where we’re at overall this year and as of the end of 2020, we have just finished at 30% growth over last year. However, it’s not just our response to the pandemic that is creating new business opportunities, our steady growth is greatly dependent on our people. We have hair stylists, technicians, managers and associates who have been with us for over 30 years, and physicians for over 25 years. Clients really appreciate

Hair Authority Winter 2020/21 11 those relationships and the experience they bring to the table.

Having said that, our marketing has played an important role also.

With COVID right now, a lot of facilities have cut back on their advertising. They think they should be holding back because people are not ready to make a decision.

They could not be more wrong!

There’s a book out right now called “Crushing It! How Great Entrepreneurs Build Their Business and Influence - and How You Can, Too” and I can’t recommend it enough. It’s by Gary Vaynerchuck and basically, it’s about how great entrepreneurs got rich. If people took the time to read the book, they’d discover that now is the time to promote their services. This lull in the commercial marketplace is an opportunity to tell your story and get noticed.

I’d like to think I’m still in the younger generation, but I’m not. I recognize that. Today, young people are on YouTube.

They’re not watching TV the way they used to. People are on Netflix. They’re on Instagram. They’re browsing the web.

People want information. You got to change with the times.

People who aren’t prepared to change are going to be left behind.

Which brings me to another thing. What is the profile of clients and patients who are coming in today? How are we adapting to their needs? Everyone is different physically and emotionally. Not everyone is a good hair transplant prospect because they may not have sufficient donor area, or their expectations are out of line. Well, the nice thing is we offer medical and non-medical options. Our clients have multiple choices.

consumer complaint, wherever it comes from, is bad for our profession. I can tell you that since the day that we started in the hair transplant industry, we’ve always worked at resolving every issue. Over the years, we’ve come to understand our clients’ and patients’ expectations and we guarantee them results based on providing just the right amount of hair.

There is a methodology behind this which is our Multi-Unit Hair Grafting® process. We’ve trademarked our hair grafting processes and it’s unique. There’s always going to be this battle of FUE versus FUT and disagreements about which one is better than the other, but with our Multi-Unit Hair Grafting® process, we are able to transplant three times the amount of hair per procedure compared to others also using FUT surgery. It requires special skills because you need to combine different types of groupings of hair to give people the density they want.

FUE is a wonderful way of doing hair transplants but it’s limited because if you have extensive hair loss, you may get a certain amount of coverage, but it’s basically see-through hair if not done properly. And if your patient has worn a hair system before, will they ever be truly happy? No, they won’t; they will want more hair and so they will go back for more procedures. However, there’s only so much you can do because their donor area is limited. What we’ve been able to do is use natural hair groupings along with the follicular units in a way that actually complements the hairline and provides them with a very natural hairstyle.

The bottom line is people just want more hair. They don’t want more procedures.

Which brings us to robot-assisted hair transplants, which has created a real buzz. I believe it’s an awesome technology that’s certainly got its place in the industry, but they must be careful not to market it to the wrong people. Any physician can purchase this equipment and do a hair transplant tomorrow, and that’s the problem. It should only be in the hands of people who’ve had extensive training and years of experience doing hair transplants and understand the complexities and what can and cannot be done.

We’ve actually got Artas robotic equipment in our own facilities, but we only use it for the right patient. It’s not for everyone because if a potential patient’s hair is too thin overall, and particularly in the back of their head, then the donor hair is limited for an overall natural look, and therefore it’s not always the answer.

The job doesn’t end when you have set high standards. You still have to protect your reputation. There are still people out there who really don’t know what they’re doing. Every

Hair Authority: Artas, the company behind this hair harvesting technology, has also developed special software that Cont’d Pg 13

12 Hair Authority Winter 2020/21

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Hair Authority Winter 2020/21 13 allows you to envisage how you could place available donor hair to achieve different cosmetic results.

Pierre: Absolutely, and it’s great. However, envisaging the final outcome also comes with extensive experience from physicians who have been performing hair transplants for many years.

Hair Authority: Do you think Artas is going to success-

fully master the technology that will actually place those harvested hairs in addition to simply acquiring donor hair?

Pierre: I hope so. Yeah. I totally hope they do get it. That’s

the beauty of this industry. We haven’t even touched the potential of this market. I don’t care what anyone says today. 10 years ago, who would have believed that today we’d be doing up to 65 hair transplants a month in the PAI Indianapolis clinic? I once thought that’s never going to happen, but you know what? I can see us going to a hundred a month. With the right facilities and the right teams and the right people, it’s achievable.

Hair Authority: We share your enthusiasm about the

future, but let’s go back to the beginning. How did PAI Medical Group come about?

Pierre: I started in 1975. I went to George Brown College in Toronto to become a hairstylist. After graduation, I started working with brother Claude in Brockville, Ontario. Immediately thereafter, I started taking as many courses as I could afford. I went to the Vidal Sassoon Hair Academy in London; UK and I took the Martin Parsons Training and other courses. In 1978, I went to Minneapolis and took a hair replacement course with New Man. Shortly after that, they brought in Terry Bradshaw, the quarterback of the Pittsburgh Steelers, as a spokesperson to endorse hair replacement, and that was when hair systems and non-medical hair replacement really took off.

In 1979, I took a Dale Carnegie course in public speaking.

Upon completion, I continued as a graduate assistant for 2 more years at night while working in the hair business during the day. I recognized early on the importance of public speaking if I wanted to succeed in business.

In 1983, I decided to team up with three individuals to go after the Canadian market and five years later, I branched out on my own. That’s when I began to network with a physician in Montreal, Dr. Robert Prescott, who was offering hair transplants and I quickly realized that there were a number of clients who had reached a point where they didn’t want to continue wearing hair systems. They were looking for other options. It was time to expand.

A few years later, I met someone you’ll recognize, Leonard

Venti. He was a member of the Transitions Group while I was its president, and he asked to visit my studio in Ottawa and our hair transplant facility in Montreal. At that time, he said to me, “You need to come and open up in the US. There’s a company called Bosley that you need to see.” So, we met in Los Angeles to meet Dr. Lee Bosley. The place was busy. I’ll never forget it. We were looking at the appointment book because Leonard wanted to schedule a hair transplant and he preferred Dr. Bosley to do it. So, we looked at the appointment book and it was unbelievable, there were very few openings available. They had patients flying in from all over the country because of Dr. Bosley’s reputation. By the way, Leonard never did book any appointment after all.

That’s when I realized the brilliance of the model Dr. Lee Bosley had put together and I thought, you know what, this is something that I could probably do. It might take a few years, but I should try. So, after that trip I eventually opened up the PAI Nashville clinic, followed by others in Chicago and then Seattle, Portland, etc. Some of these were set up with independent Hair Club franchisees who wanted to add medical services. This was before Hair Club itself formed a marketing partnership with Bosley. So, what goes around, comes around.

One of the things I admired back then was the founder of Hair Club, Sy Sperling. He really understood marketing and opened up the doors for everyone in this industry. He also knew how to pick good people. I have had a lot of interesting situations over the years, because the industry certainly brings together some colorful individuals and you’ve got to be cautious.

One important thing Sy conveyed to me was that you have to focus on good people who are going to grow with you.

Things in life don’t always work out the way you planned for a reason. You don’t always succeed. In fact, you’re going to fail a lot. When I decided to expand my business in the United States, I realized that I had to develop a medical management company to provide medical procedures through licensed physicians and technicians. I didn’t understand the complexity of it all at that time. You can’t imagine the roadblocks I came across! I can still remember the first place we opened in 1995 in Nashville with 2 co-owners David Lachman and Michael Ramsey, and we had so many patients that were sold and waiting for their procedures. To help out the new clinic, I eventually brought one of my physicians, Dr. Vance Elliott, who was already trained and qualified in Canada.

14 Hair Authority Winter 2020/21 Needless to say, it wasn’t that easy. It was just one issue after another. I had to deal with US customs. I had to deal with US immigration, I had to deal with individual US state licenses. It was a nightmare! Then, I eventually met with the right lawyers and the right accountants. And I met the right immigration lawyers and that experience literally showed me how to do my research and plan ahead. There are no shortcuts.

We’ve come a long way since then and we’ve shared our learning and experience with our PAI Medical Group associates. Over the years, we’ve brought several US physicians to Canada to be trained in our facilities.

Most physicians are well educated in medicine but may not always have the right understanding about running and growing a business. They don’t always appreciate the value of and need for marketing - the fact that you’ve got to get the word out there! So, when I started meeting some of these physicians, they were interested in aligning with us. In fact, one of these physicians, Dr. Jeff Waesche, has been working with PAI Medical Group now for over 25 years, and to this day, our meeting was one of the best outcomes in the PAI Medical Group organization.

Today, that alignment also continues as we work with non-medical facilities selling only hair-system related services that need to expand to not only increase their reach but to also offer more solutions demanded by socially aware consumers. That demand often includes the ultimate solution through medical hair restoration services, whereby we successfully integrate a new and lucrative increment to their business model with hair transplantation services.

That’s a brief summary of where we started from and where we are today. Trust me, there were many, many more learning curves we had to navigate. And still do.

Hair Authority: Pierre, you talked about Sperling being a dynamic presence in the market, and you have a strong personality yourself.

Would it fair to say that your own energy was also a driving force?

Pierre: You know what

Chris; I think it really was.

I’m often on the road to the PAI clinics in the US and Canada and learning from similar entities internationally. Obviously right now with COVID I’ve had to limit my traveling because every time

I come back into Canada; I have to quarantine for 14 days.

But I’ve always been on the road making connections and building the business and relationships.

I can still remember going into Chicago, Seattle, Portland and Nashville in the early days. These weren’t cities I knew. I would get to the airport; rent a car and the first thing I would do was get a map to study where I needed to go. I can’t tell you how many times I was lost at five o’clock in the morning driving around in the rain or fog.

I’ll never forget one time I got lost in Cleveland. I was trying to get to my hotel late at night. I kept seeing it from a distance, but because of some road construction I couldn’t get to it. Finally, guess who shows up behind me with their lights flashing - the police! Immediately I thought, what did I do; did I not stop? So, they ask me the usual things, “Show me your license?” “What are you doing here?” and I tell them I’m trying to find the Marriott Courtyard. And they say, “Do you know where you are right now? You’re in the heaviest drug infested area in the entire city. If you stop your car too long at a stop sign, you’re going to end up with no wheels on your car!” That was first time I had a police escort to my hotel. Young people today have no idea what it’s like to get out there and do the heavy lifting. At that time, I really had no money, and I had no choice, but I had the energy and the dream… and I still do!

As you know, I’m a big believer in reading positive, inspirational books. That is my passion. My late brother, Mark, introduced me to the motivational audiobooks of Zig Ziglar, Jim Rohn, Dennis Waitley, etc., which strengthened my way of thinking. You are who you are, you are what you are, you are where you are in life, by what you feed your mind on a daily basis. You change who you are, you change what you are, you change where you are in life, by changing what you feed your mind on a daily basis. Period.

I like to study people who have succeeded, and I continuously take new business courses. Last January, I took Dan Pena’s “The Trillion Dollar Man” course in London, UK. I always want to learn more about what makes things work. That’s the fuel that keeps my drive going. That and surrounding myself with the right success-minded people.

I am very optimistic about the future. They want to look

Hair Authority Winter 2020/21 15

I believe that young people today are going to be tomorrow’s clients. They understand they need to look good.

Today it’s almost 50%.

good, and if the solution is there and the modalities that are offered are affordable, they are going to take advantage of them.

Then there’s the female market. Back in the earlier days, if you’d asked me, would we be working with a lot of women clients I would have I said no, not really. Because back then they represented less than 5% of all clients.

Hair Authority: Do you anticipate any new technologies or research impacting the business in the next 24 months?

Pierre: Well, I’m reading up about the stem cell research

that’s going on and I think there’s going to be some great breakthroughs coming up. In fact, I was reading your latest Hair Authority issue where you were talking about it as well.

Hair Authority: What is the one thing that you would like people at home to know about your organization?

When I look at the people that have really done well, they started generally with nothing. Smart newcomers are going to look at this industry and say, wait a second, here’s a misunderstood business opportunity that’s still got tremendous growth. go any further because they’re limited in their thinking in terms of what else they could offer and bring to the table.

That’s where PAI Medical Group will come in. We can assess that business and show them how to take advantage of new opportunities out there. To give you an example, our PAI Washington facility was previously owned Dr. Richard Giannotto who realized that at this point in his life he no longer wanting to do everything himself, he just wanted to do the procedures. So, I told him we had some investors that would like to take a look at his business model, and that’s exactly what I ended up arranging. And now happily, he works full-time with PAI Medical Group.

The last thing I want to say is this. I don’t care who’s in business; if they don’t have a strong and focused work ethic, they’re going to get run over by the people who do. And the other thing is, are they feeding their mind with the right material, the right books? They’ve got to discipline themselves to learn from reading the types of books I mentioned and associating with the right positive people.

When I took the Dan Pena course back in January 2020, one of the things that was brought clearly to my attention is this Now isn’t that an eye opener? Think about it. Pena says, “… show me your friends, and I’ll show you your future!”

Pierre: That we offer all modalities; whether it’s hair systems, hair transplants, laser, PRP or stem cell treatments.

We have over 30 years of experience. Our medical teams are strong, and we commit to getting the best results. If there are facilities offering non-medical hair loss solutions and would like to increase the scope of their business by adding medical hair restoration, PAI Medical Group may be a good fit.

Hair Authority: Is there any question you would have liked us to ask?

Pierre: Yes, if someone wants to start in the hair restoration, would you recommend it as a good career path?

Now there are people out there that are going to tell you the industry is dying, but that’s just a reflection of their mindset.

The reality is this, it is still an exciting industry. There’s a lot going on.

Of course, there are existing studios and clinics that can’t

you’ll become as wealthy in your lifespan to the same extent as your three closest friends.

Hair Authority: Sitting across the desk from you is your right-hand man, Fred Corsale, let’s give him the final word.

Pierre: First, a quick word of introduction, Fred has been a true blessing in my life as well all my long-term staff, employees and PAI owners and associates across the US and Canada. My advisory board told me 15 years ago that I needed to bring someone like Fred on board and my initial thought was, I can’t afford a guy like that. And they said you can’t afford not to. How right they were! Fred’s who has a Master’s degree in business and a degree in engineering and speaks several languages. He’s the type of guy everyone needs in their organization to get things done. He’s the systems

16 Hair Authority Winter 2020/21 prime, not myself. He’s the guy behind the scenes that makes things happen.

Fred Corsale: I realized from the very first time I talked to Pierre that this is an image awareness business. Everything we do from meeting a potential client to setting up systems and making processes work is ultimately about helping to enhance someone’s image. All we need to do is make someone’s life just a little bit better than it was when they first came Fred Corsale through the door and we’ve done our job.

The PAI network we’ve established and grown over the years has attracted people in the hair industry who never thought of selling a hair transplant or a hair system. But when they elevate their mindset to thinking about improving someone’s image, then they understand the importance of this job.

We do everything we possibly can to make that person think about their potential in in more successful terms. To do this, we must understand our clients and patients on a very intimate level. Most people are not trained to do this.

I’ve seen Pierre in action, he will sit with a potential client or patient and not even talk about hair at all for maybe the first half hour, 45 minutes or maybe a whole hour. Not one word about hair. He’ll talk about the person and what they’re thinking… and why they’re thinking that way. And what do people around him or her say? Eventually it comes around to talking about hair and then what they want for themselves.

How they want to keep or grow their hair. It’s a technique using probing questions to understand and analyze in order to present a unique solution. This will help them see themselves in a new image that will help them increase their success in an aspect of their lives that was lacking it.

And, for the expanding network of PAI clinics and associates, it’s about finding the right people who want to increase their current skills and learn new ones with a focused drive to succeed. That’s how we’re growing the business. We just want to do it organically, one step at a time.

Finally, I’d like to say thanks to you, Chris, and the International Hair Authority Journal for exposing so many inside stories like ours in every issue. We’re all in this business together and as Pierre would say, “Keep up the spirit!”

IHA

THE INTERNATIONAL TM HAIR AUTHORITY The Hair Authority’s mission is to provide hairmanagement professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will help them provide superior service to their clients and patients. It is a full-color tabloid, published quarterly and distributed worldwide.

EDITOR IN CHIEF Christopher Webb

cwebb@hairauthority.com

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Vikas Verma vicky1verma@gmail.com

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Larry Oskin, Hans Diks (Europe) info@hairauthority.com

LEGAL NOTICE

The views expressed in The International Hair Authority are those of the individual author or contributor and not those of The International Hair Authority, its editors or staff. The Authority’s contents reflect the opinions of the authors and are not analyzed, peer-reviewed or otherwise investigated before publication. All authors and contributors are asked to disclose any interests they have of a commercial nature.

The International Hair Authority makes no attempt to validate the sufficiency of such disclosures and makes no warranty, guarantee or other representation, expressed or implied with respect to the accuracy or sufficiency of any information provided. The publication of an advertisement does not constitute on the part of the International Hair Authority a guarantee or endorsement of the quality or value of the representations or claims made by the advertiser. The International Hair Authority accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials.

All articles and letters become the property of the International Hair Authority and may be edited for clarity, presentations and space. By allowing your articles, interviews and personal commentary to be used in The International Hair Authority, you are giving the publication permission to use these materials in its pages, websites and other information materials.

Advertisers are required to sign a formal advertising agreement indicating that they are not violating any trademarks or other intellectual properties. Full details are outlined in The International Hair Authority Media Kit.

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The material published in The International Hair Authority is copyrighted and may not be utilized in any form without the written consent of the editor.

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Hair Authority Winter 2020/21 17

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20 Hair Authority Winter 2020/21

Trichology Section

Everything You’ve Always Wanted To Know About CBD There is probably no one on the planet who knows more about CBD than Dr. Gregory Smith.

The Hair Authority met with Dr. Smith to learn more about research he has recently completed and its implications for the hair loss community.

Hair Authority – Our readers are interested to learn more about CBD - where it comes from, why it’s important, and why everybody is looking at it today. You have recently completed a study that explored the effects of CBD on hair loss. What did you learn?

Dr. Smith earned his medical degree from Rush Medical School in Chicago, and a Master of Public Health from Harvard University. He completed residency training in Preventive Medicine at Walter Reed Army Medical Center.

He is a former Major in the US Army.

CBD is just one many cannabinoids that are present in cannabis oil or hemp - I prefer to say, “hemp oil” because the terminology is less drug related. There are 113 different fat-soluble chemicals in hemp oil called cannabinoids.

He has had extensive experience and education in the field of cannabinoid medications. students and medical professionals on the science and applications of cannabinoid medications.

Dr. Smith has several peer-reviewed research publications.

He completed a human trial on the bioavailability of nanoparticle CBD in 2019 and is currently conducting research on bioavailability of other CBD formulations, as well as a study of the efficacy of topical CBD/CBDa for hair regrowth.

Dr. Smith’s new medical textbook called ‘Cannabidiol (CBD): Basic Science and Clinical Applications’ I set to be published by Springer Press this coming year. Dr. Smith consults as a scientific and medical advisor on cannabis, and cannabinoid therapeutics with over a dozen companies in four countries.

Doctor Smith will be sharing future research results and insights with Hair Authority readers in a special column, “Ask the Expert.”

Dr. Smith - Can we stand back a little further and start with the endocannabinoid system? This often abbreviated ‘ECS.’ Understanding the how the ECS works in the body will lead us to better understand CBD and give me a chance to discuss the other components in hemp oil that are important for their effects on the hair follicle.

One of the primary functions of the ECS is maintaining energy homeostasis, so let’s take it from there.

The bad actor, of course, is THC, and you know, we don’t deal with that. The good one is CBD. Both of these are present in high quantities in the oil. The other 111 are very tiny amounts, perhaps half a percent or one percent.

When we started looking at hemp oil, we realized that there are a lot of effects from cannabinoids on our innate ECS in the body, including ECS receptors on the skin and hair follicle. So, as you can imagine. a lot of pharmaceutical companies started looking at hemp oils and although we documented a variety of effects, we didn’t learn what system these other chemicals were using until 20 years later, sometime in the 1990s. We knew that CBD had some very important therapeutic effects and that they impacted both the brain and the body, but it was only in the ‘90s that we discovered the ECS and realized it had more receptors in the brain than any other neurotransmitter system; more than serotonin, dopamine, acetylcholine, all the common neurotransmitters that everyone’s heard about.

The ECS has the second highest number of receptors throughout the body, including the skin and scalp. So, it’s a very important system.

Why is it important for hair growth? Because originally the body produced hair to regulate heat loss or maintain heat. Twenty-five of all heat loss is through the scalp, so the hair on the scalp was

Hair Authority Winter 2020/21 21 very important to our ancient ancestors during past ice ages. One of the primary functions of the ECS is energy homeostasis. What does that have to do with the hair follicle? Well, when it’s cold and an ice age comes along, we up-regulate follicles so they get thicker and longer and provide some heat maintenance. This was especially true for our ancestors who had lots of hair all over their body - the elongated and thickened hair would maintain heat. Almost like some species develop a winter coat.

hard to get published. But we’ve come a long way since then. My second textbook on this topic was published by the largest book publisher in the world, which is Springer Press. And we now have five FDA approved cannabinoid medicines that are available either over the counter or by prescription at your local CVS. Things are happening very quickly.

These days, people no longer have as much body hair, but the hair on our head still functions in a very sort of atavistic or oldfashioned way. It responds to these receptors in a very nice way. The hair follicle has a receptor called the CB1 receptor. There are several types of ECS receptors, but the CB1 receptor is like a keyhole on the cells of the hair follicle, and you need a key to unlock its actions. If you put the key in, in this case, an Endocannabinoid substance our body makes, it turns the hair cell off. It tells the hair shaft to stop elongating and it tells the matrix cells to make the hair thinner. So, you get thinner, shorter hair. However, when we use CBD and the varin cannabinoids from hemp oil, we block that from happening. We block the body’s ability to turn these cells off, and as a result, we block hair loss and thinning, including conditions like androgenetic alopecia.

Dr. Smith - The most

If we give CBD and the varin cannabinoids in a topical solution, it penetrates the base of the hair bulb and sits on these receptors and blocks anything getting to them that might tell them to turn off.

Studies have shown that the net result is an increase in hair shaft elongation which is one effect through one type of cell type that are keratinocytes. It also stimulates matrix production through matrix cells, which make the hair thicker. It can also stimulate melanin sites for hair color and increase the duration that the hair shaft stays around before it goes into the catagen phase and dies.

In addition, there is another ECS receptor with the horrible name of TRPV1 receptors. We commonly call this the ‘capsaicin’ receptors since it has to do with telling our skin when it is hot or burning. Capsaicin in the ingredient in hot peppers that causes a burning sensation in our mouth. When we overstimulate the TRPV1 receptor in the hair follicle we fool it into letting the hair shaft to keep growing. We can fool the ‘capsaicin’ receptors with an ingredient found in peppermint oil.

So, there are lots and lots of good effects through the ECS using CBD, varin-type cannabinoids and peppermint oil.

Hair Authority - Is that what you sought to demonstrate in the

clinical study?

Dr. Smith - Correct. I wanted to see how substantial the effects of CBD really were. For all we knew, the effects could have been small. We truly didn’t know much about hemp oil since the subject of hemp and cannabis oil was previously a hands-off topic due to the stigma.

As a result, it was very hard to get research money to study CBD or to get articles published. My first textbook, which is now the standard textbook used in English speaking countries to train medical students and pharmacists on cannabinoids, was incredibly

Hair Authority – What was the name of those two textbooks? recent one is called “Medical, Cannabis, Basic Science and Clinical Applications” for medical and pharmacology students in training. The other is “Medical Cannabis and Opioids: Minimizing Opioid Use Through Cannabis” and it is about using cannabis to get off of opioids. That’s the one from Springer Press.

Hair Authority – Sorry to interrupt, but our subscribers may want to get copies…. getting back on track, we were just heading into the clinical study.

Dr. Smith - This was what’s called a proof-of-concept study.

We recruited 35 patients from John Satino’s clinic, and with their informed consent, conducted a six-month trial using a CBD nanoparticle serum we formulated ourselves. To be cautious, we only put half the dose we wanted, but in spite of this, we had amazing results.

Dr. Smith - The safety of topically applied cannabinoids has been well documented over the years.

It’s incredibly safe so we plan to move forward quickly and work on getting the right dose.

Hair Authority - Where do you go from here? Do you do a more substantial study to get FDA clearance?

We will also study whether including other things in the formulation like peppermint oil will further improve the effect because of its effects on the cannabinoid receptors. Why not combine CBD and peppermint oil extract, which stimulate several different receptors all having to do with elongation, fattening of the hair shaft and prolongation of the period of time that the hair shaft stays alive?

The next step will be a Phase II FDA trial with 60 patients: 3 different groups of 20 patients each receiving a different dosage level.

22 Hair Authority Winter 2020/21 Hair Authority - How long does this kind of research take?

Dr. Smith - Safety has already been proven. We’ve already done proof of concept, which is the equivalent of a Phase 1 trial. So now we are going into Phase II. If it confirms what we found in Phase 1, then we would look for a large company to get involved and partner with us to move forward into Phase 3 trials.

Hair Authority - Are you looking to partner with a large company or plan to commercialize it yourself?

Dr. Smith - This is an OTC product and we’re already moving

forward with hair topicals. We’re also producing a daily oral extract that works synergistically. I don’t think the topical by itself will be the big seller. But it could work synergistically and complement Rogaine and Propecia.

The only place you can currently purchase ReMane® with AlphaVarin® (this is our proprietary combination of CBD, two varin cannabinoids, and peppermint oil) is www.TreevanaWellness.com.

We have both the topical and the additional oral tincture. The varin cannabinoids are actually much more potent for these hair follicle effects than CBD alone.

Hair Authority - Are other groups also investigating CBD, or are you really the lead researcher in this field?

Dr. Smith - Very good question, and there’s a very clear answer. Most companies and clinicians just don’t know what to do with cannabinoids so they’re staying away from them. I think pharmaceutical companies wonder if they’re going to be able to get their drugs approved or patented.

Now that there are several FDA approved cannabinoids, there’s probably less fear, but remember, these are plant extracts? There aren’t many plant extracts that are FDA approved. However, we managed to get five cannabinoid drugs FDA cleared and now that we have broken through that barrier, they’re going to continue to approve them. But there’s no one else out there that I know of doing cannabinoid research on human hair loss.

Hair Authority - Are there other any other products to actually stimulate receptors that increase hair growth?

Dr. Smith – Promoting hair growth is a very specific thing.

It’s a lock and key mechanism. The body is designed to do this for the hair follicle. All of the other currently available hair loss therapies, including Rogaine®, Propecia®, Nioxin®, and lasertherapy have their effects by improving the health of the follicle, through various means, such as increased blood flow or decreased accumulation of DHT. Using cannabinoids is a novel approach and is actually using an innate system designed to promote hair shaft elongation, increase hair shaft volume and increase life of the hair follicle, whereas everything else out there is sort of peripheral.

They are more of a support system. The cannabinoid therapy is synergistic with the other currently available treatments.

Do we need more oxygen to make the hair follicle grow faster or less testosterone surrounding the follicles, so they get more blood supply? Sure, they’re beneficial, but they don’t go to the root of the problem. They are not designed genetically to make the hair elongate, thicken and live longer.

Growing long, thick hair is a specific function dating back to the ice age genetically, that we are putting a key into. We’re much closer to treating the specific condition as opposed to being merely supportive around the hair follicle.

Hair Authority - What is the difference in the mechanism between the stem cell therapy and the effect of the cannabinoids?

Dr. Smith - Very interesting question. I do a lot of stem cell

injections myself, particularly on joints and I love them. I think surgeons hate us because we’re preventing a lot of orthopedic surgeries on knees, hips and shoulders. The underlying processes that benefit most from stem cell or surgery are degeneration of a joint like the knee or hip. But other degenerative processes like dementia and Alzheimer’s may also be candidates.

CBD more than any other cannabinoid has been shown to slow and prevent degenerative processes in chronic inflammation. It literally turns down the thermostat on the level of inflammation going on. Chronic smoldering inflammation in your joints, in your brain, maybe even in your heart vessels is causing most of the disease and impairment of aging.

When you combine CDB with stem cell therapy, you reduce inflammation and slow down degeneration, then put in stem cells to regenerate new youthful cells, you’re initiating two separate processes. You regenerate healthy tissue, healthy joints and help maintain a healthy mind. That that’s how they work together. They complement each other.

Hair Authority - Congratulations on CBD research and please keep us posted as this exciting project move forward.

•

To get a copy of “Medical, Cannabis, Basic Science and Clinical Applications” or “CBD: What You Need to Know” click here.

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Hair Authority Winter 2020/21 23

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24 Hair Authority Winter 2020/21

Stress and Hair Why Your Lifestyle Matters

Hair has always been associated with fear and stress. That’s why people say their hair “stood on end” or they “felt like just pulling their hair out.” And bad hair days refer to the gloom and frustration when nothing seems to go right. So, it comes as no surprise to learn that anxiety and stress can actually result in hair loss.

Mayo Clinic On its “Healthy Lifestyle” web page told readers that, “Yes, stress and hair loss can be related,” adding that, “Three types of hair loss that can be associated with high stress levels:” • Telogen effluvium - In telogen effluvium significant stress pushes large numbers of hair follicles into a resting phase. Within a few months, affected hairs might fall out suddenly when simply combing or washing your hair.

• Trichotillomania - Trichotillomania is an irresistible urge to pull out hair from your scalp, eyebrows or other areas of your body. Hair pulling can be a way of dealing with negative or uncomfortable feelings, such as stress, tension, loneliness, boredom or frustration.

• Alopecia areata - A variety of factors are thought to cause alopecia areata possibly including severe stress. With alopecia areata, the body’s immune system attacks the hair follicles — causing hair loss.

• Stress and hair loss don’t have to be permanent. If you get your stress under control, your hair might grow back.”

And Forbes recently published an article “How Extreme Stress Causes Hair Loss” by Neera Nathan, MD, which explored the relation between stress and the hair cycle.

Dr Nathan explained, “To test the relationship between substantial stress and hair loss, researchers artificially exposed mice to sound stress (a form of psychosocial stress) and found that it caused early termination of anagen, or the growth phase of the hair cycle.

by 2030 anxiety and depression is expected to become one of the biggest health threats in the world.

About Stress The Global Wellness Institute has identified “mental wellness” as one of the most important wellness trends, which becomes even more relevant given the fact that Spas and beauty salons are places where we focus on our looks and wellbeing and that includes our mental health.

It’s where we can relax… and let our hair down.

What Is Mental Wellbeing?

Healthy Place describes mental wellbeing as “the state of thriving in various areas of life, such as in relationships, at work, play, and more, despite ups and downs. It’s the knowledge that we are separate from our problems and the belief that we can handle those problems.” If you have good mental wellbeing, then you will be able to: • have positive self-esteem and feel confident in yourself • live and work productively • deal with the stresses of daily life • maintain emotionally healthy relationships • remain optimistic and adapt to change • have and pursue interests

Benefits of Relaxation On Mental Wellbeing.

Mental health problems are common; according to health

Hair Authority Winter 2020/21 25 • • • •

professionals at Mind “approximately 1 in 4 people will experience a mental health problem each year.” All of us must deal with high levels of stress, whether it is the unpredictability of the economy, demanding jobs, or trying to make the work-life balance work. Too much stress can hurt your health and so it is important to make time to unwind and relax.

Relaxation techniques slow your heart rate and breathing, lower your blood pressure and reduce muscle tension. This allows you to concentrate, problem-solve, and deal with any stresses or worries in your life in a calm and focused environment.

Regular relaxation can help reduce the symptoms of many diseases including chronic pain, sleeping disorders, stress and anxiety. Using relaxation methods in a great way to maintain and improve your overall mental and physical health.

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ORGANIC What it Means and Who Says So

By Arpit

The term organic, in general refers to a product derived from living organisms and untouched by any chemical compounds, fertilizers, or pesticides. In the cosmetic industry, the term organic means a brand or an ingredient that has been certified by one of the numerous certifying institutions that operate worldwide like the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA). It also bears a logo of the certifying institution which means that the said ingredients have been grown and processed under a strict code of cleanliness with no chemical compounds and no genetically modified organisms.

There is as such no specific definition pertaining to the term organic. Organic skin and hair care products tend to offer the added benefits of decreased risk of skin irritation and allergies since they do not contain chemicals. Organic skincare products contain organic vegetable oils, organic essential oil, essential fatty acids, and vitamins. Organic skincare products are environment friendly.

Organic cosmetics are produced after choosing the best ingredients derived from plants along with some other naturally occurring ingredients. Organic skincare products nourish, moisturize, and take care of the skin gently.

Organic skincare products come with different labels.

The label “100% Organic” signifies that the product contains only organically produced ingredients and is permitted to display the seal.

The label “Organic” means the product contains at least 95% organically produced ingredients and is permitted to display the seal. The label “Made with Organic Ingredients” means that the product contains at least 70% organic ingredients

but is not permitted to display the seal. Demand for organic products in the skin care space is seeing rapid growth.

There is a paradigm shift in consumer awareness about health and wellness owning to the growing number of beauty blogs and social media accounts dedicated to the benefits of going organic. This is a major driver for the organic skin care industry. The online platform is one of the key sources used by consumers to search for the best suitable products which may not be available in malls and retail stores. Hence, e-commerce is one of the prominent factors propelling growth in the global skin care market.

Various technological innovations which are used to increase the shelf life of skin care products are expected to have a positive impact on the sector. The skin care market is driven by factors such as new product development, increased spending capacity of consumers on premium products, expansion of distribution channels, and increasing online reach. However, the high cost of organic skincare products may become a hindrance to the growth of the market. Nevertheless, the organic skincare market growth is expected to show an upward trend.

The organic skin care market has been segmented on the basis of type, gender, point of sale, and geography. Based on type, the organic skincare market is classified into facial care, hair care, make-up, and body care. Based on gender, the market is categorized into male and female. On the basis of point of sale, the organic skin care market is segmented into exclusive retail stores, online channels, source: supermarkets/ hypermarkets, beauty parlors & salons, and multi branded retail outlets. Based on geography, the organic skin care market has been divided into North America, Asia Pacific, Europe, Middle East & Africa, and South America.

Transparency Market Research is a next-generation market intelligence provider, offering fact-based solutions to is business leaders, consultants, and strategy professionals. More information is available in their latest report: Organic Skin Care Market 2020: Veritable Information on Size, Growth Trends and Competitive Outlook.

IHA

Hair Authority Winter 2020/21 27

Transporting Consumers into the Brand Experience with Nostalgic Storytelling By: Ricky Turner, Creative Director

“2020 has been quite a decade,” goes the common refrain.

The sentiment is one we can all connect to on some level; the seemingly endless year has been nothing if not out of the ordinary. Practically overnight, the way we conduct business, celebrate events, and visit friends has drastically changed.

There’s an appetite for the ordinary, for the familiar. We miss it, sometimes fearing it may never return. We crave normality every time we adjust our hot facemasks or air-hug a friend.

Advertising, too, is caught in a strange no-man’s land right now when it comes to how to depict our new normal (or indeed whether we should at all!). As a creative director at an Adweek Top100 agency, navigating the details of how and whether or not to embrace the full reality of 2020 in a tasteful and responsible way has become a familiar struggle, one in which it’s easy to lose sight of the primary goal: how can we make people connect emotionally with what we’re selling?

In times as fraught as these, perhaps we should be thinking about ways in which we can reach into consumers’ hearts and their warm memories of a more normal time, and bring our products and services along in a way that feels respectful and positive.

Think back to the classic Folgers’ Christmas-themed commercials, starting in 1986 with “Peter Comes Home for Christmas,” and rebooted in 2009 with a very similar-themed spot featuring a brother and sister. If you recall the original commercial, which ran for an impressive 17 years, it’s likely you mostly remember it the same way I do: the pre-sunrise

dim light and snow-muted quiet of an unlit house as Peter’s cab pulls away…the dark still of an unawakened home’s foyer lit only by the first rays of morning streaming through the shutters, before the Christmas tree bathes the room in a warm glow. The quiet, tip-toe, “let them sleep” darkness captured so cinematically in the first 20 seconds of the spot taps into the kinds of memories that we all make in the most serene moments throughout our lives.

Moments we experience are often captured in silent vignettes in our minds—snapshots of a feeling, an association with something comforting or pleasant. As soon as the commercial has given us a chance to connect with, to feel these timeless moments, we see a beautiful shot of a perfect stream of brown coffee catching the golden glow of the progressing sun before filling the carafe, the perfect wisp of steam floating up, carrying the aromas that will gently coax Peter’s parents upstairs, unaware of his surprise arrival, from their peaceful sleep. This product shot, literally halfway through the commercial, is an invitation to enjoy the coffee with the family, to revel in the joy of the touching reunion that follows.

By spending some valuable screen time with the audience first and tapping into fond impressions and feelings of moments and experiences we can relate to, the commercial has offered us a brief respite from the realities of our current lives, and has practically given us no choice but to take a vicarious whiff of the coffee that has been served to us as a welcome guest in the family’s home.

28 Hair Authority Winter 2020/21

This commercial was a timeless holiday staple on TV for nearly two decades, after which it gracefully retired with “classic” status. Never “old,” and never “outdated,” it still strikes the same emotional chords today as it did 34 years ago. What we felt for that commercial, for the product, we brought to the table ourselves. The creative minds that brought Peter home that Christmas went out of their way with purposely-unremarkable wardrobe and art direction in order to strip away “the current,” and to focus on the feelings of memories that hang in our minds as timeless and pleasant as the smell of freshly brewed coffee on a snowy morning. In the first 30 seconds of nostalgia-stoking imagery, they painted a picture borrowing years of our own pleasant associations, and thus offered us a warm, cozy, somehow familiar spot on the couch where we would gladly accept the cup of coffee they offered.

There’s a lesson to be learned here among 2020’s whirlwind of natural disasters, political firestorms and economic uncertainty.

Perhaps if we can think about where our viewers want to be, even if just for a moment—someplace familiar and peaceful—we can connect with them in the places where they have been, and where they hope to be again soon.

If we can use our talents in creative storytelling to go to those nostalgic places and extend a warm and genuine invitation, and then respectfully present our product as a welcome and natural part of that experience, we can build those most valuable brand associations of trust and familiarity by tapping into feelings of calm and normalcy that our audience already carries with them.

By offering consumers something of indisputable value first—a brief vacation from the “decade” we call 2020—we may just find them in a better, more receptive mood to consider that we have something else to offer them during the time they’ll give us in return.

Biography - Ricky began private art lessons at age 8, his production career at 14, and has pursued both passions without interruption ever since. After a Bachelor’s in graphic design and graduate school in 3D computer animation, Ricky began his professional career in advertising in 2002, producing state of the art motion graphics/animation for a number of production companies and traditional ad agencies, honing the skills to corner the market on authentic, persuasive visual communication.

Ricky’s relationship with Bluewater has grown from vendor in 2006, to strategic partner in 2010, to Partner/Creative Director by 2020, where he now lends his experience to help guide all visual and idea teams.

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Hair Authority Winter 2020/21 29

Cosmetic, Drug or Cosmeceutical?

Are all “personal care products” regulated as cosmetics? Are they drugs or “cosmeceuticals”?

People often use the term “personal care products” to refer to a wide variety of items that we commonly find in the health and beauty departments of drug and department stores. These products may fall into a number of different categories under the law.

Products intended to cleanse or beautify are generally regulated as cosmetics. Some examples are skin moisturizers, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail polishes, makeup, shampoos, permanent waves, hair colors, toothpastes, and deodorants. These products and their ingredients are not subject to FDA premarket approval, except color additives (other than coal tar hair dyes).

Cosmetic companies have a legal responsibility for the safety of their products and ingredients.

Products intended to treat or prevent disease, or affect the

structure or function of the body, are drugs. This is true even if a product affects how you look. Some examples are treatments for dandruff or acne, sunscreen products, antiperspirants, and diaper ointments. Generally, drugs must receive premarket approval by FDA or, if they are nonprescription drugs, conform to special regulations, called “monographs,” for their category.

Some are both cosmetics and drugs. Examples include anti-dandruff shampoos and antiperspirant-deodorants, as well as moisturizers and makeup with SPF (sun protection factor)

30 Hair Authority Winter 2020/21 numbers. They must meet the requirements for both cosmetics and drugs.

claims. Such products must comply with the requirements for both cosmetics and drugs.

Some may belong to other categories, including medical devices (such as certain hair removal and microdermabrasion devices), dietary supplements (such as vitamin or mineral tablets or capsules), or other consumer products (such as manicure sets).

What about “cosmeceuticals”?

“A product can be a drug, a cosmetic, or a combination of both, but the term “cosmeceutical” has no meaning under the law.

The law does not recognize any such category as “cosmeceuticals.” If a product has drug properties, it must meet the requirements for drugs.

The FD&C Act does not recognize any such category as “cosmeceuticals.

Whether a product is a cosmetic or a drug under the law is determined by a product’s intended use. Different laws and regulations apply to each type of product.

How is a product’s intended use established?

Intended use may be established in a number of ways. The following are some examples:

Firms sometimes violate the law by marketing a cosmetic with a drug claim or by marketing a drug as if it were a cosmetic, without adhering to requirements for drugs.

How does the law define a cosmetic?

The Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use, as “articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body...for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance” [FD&C Act, sec. 201(i)]. Among the products included in this definition are skin moisturizers, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail polishes, eye and facial makeup preparations, cleansing shampoos, permanent waves, hair colors, and deodorants, as well as any substance intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product.

How does the law define a drug?

The FD&C Act defines drugs, in part, by their intended use, as “articles intended for use in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease” and “articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man or other animals” [FD&C Act, sec. 201(g)(1)].

How can a product be both a cosmetic and a drug?

Some products meet the definitions of both cosmetics and drugs. This may happen when a product has two intended uses. For example, a shampoo is a cosmetic because its intended use is to cleanse the hair. An antidandruff treatment is a drug because its intended use is to treat dandruff. Consequently, an antidandruff shampoo is both a cosmetic and a drug.

Among other cosmetic/drug combinations are toothpastes that contain fluoride, deodorants that are also antiperspirants, and moisturizers and makeup marketed with sun-protection

Claims stated on the product labeling, in advertising, on the Internet, or in other promotional materials. Certain claims may cause a product to be considered a drug, even if the product is marketed as if it were a cosmetic. Such claims establish the product as a drug because the intended use is to treat or prevent disease or otherwise affect the structure or functions of the human body. Some examples are claims that products will restore hair growth, reduce cellulite, treat varicose veins, increase or decrease the production of melanin (pigment) in the skin, or regenerate cells.

Consumer perception, which may be established through the product’s reputation. This means asking why the consumer is buying it and what the consumer expects it to do.

Ingredients that cause a product to be considered a drug because they have a well-known (to the public and industry) therapeutic use. An example is fluoride in toothpaste.

This principle also holds true for “essential oils.” For example, a fragrance marketed for promoting attractiveness is a cosmetic.

But a fragrance marketed with certain “aromatherapy” claims, such as assertions that the scent will help the consumer sleep or quit smoking, meets the definition of a drug because of its intended use. Similarly, a massage oil that is simply intended to lubricate the skin and impart fragrance is a cosmetic, but if the product is intended for a therapeutic use, such as relieving muscle pain, it’s a drug.

How are the laws and regulations different for cosmetics and drugs?

The following information is not a complete treatment of cosmetic or drug laws and regulations. It is intended only to alert you to some important differences between the laws and regulations for cosmetics and drugs in the areas of approval, good manufacturing practice, registration, and labeling. Questions Cont’d Pg 32

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32 Hair Authority Winter 2020/21 regarding laws and regulations for drugs should be directed to FDA’s Center for Drug Evaluation and Research (CDER).

How are approval requirements different?

Under the FD&C Act, cosmetic products and ingredients, with the exception of color additives, do not require FDA approval before they go on the market. Drugs, however, must generally either receive premarket approval by FDA through the New Drug Application (NDA) process or conform to a “monograph” for a particular drug category, as established by FDA’s Over-the-Counter (OTC) Drug Review. These monographs specify conditions whereby OTC drug ingredients are generally recognized as safe and effective, and not misbranded. Certain OTC drugs may remain on the market without an NDA approval until a monograph for its class of drugs is finalized as a regulation. However, once FDA has made a final determination on the status of an OTC drug category, such products must either be the subject of an approved NDA [FD&C Act, sec. 505(a) and (b)], or comply with the appropriate monograph for an OTC drug. (A note on the term “new drug”: Despite the word “new,” a “new drug” may have been in use for many years. If a product is intended for use as a drug, it must comply with the requirements outlined above.)

What do these terms mean?

An NDA is the vehicle through which drug sponsors formally propose that FDA approve a pharmaceutical for sale and marketing in the United States. FDA only approves an NDA after determining, for example, that the data is adequate to show the drug’s safety and effectiveness for its proposed use and that its benefits outweigh the risks. The NDA system is also used for new ingredients and for new indications entering the OTC marketplace for the first time. For example, the newer OTC products (previously available only by prescription) are first approved through the NDA system, and their “switch” to OTC status is then approved, also through the NDA system.

FDA has published monographs, or rules, for a number of OTC drug categories. These monographs, which are published in the Federal Register, state requirements for categories of nonprescription drugs, such as what ingredients may be used and for what intended use. Among the many nonprescription drug categories covered by OTC monographs are: • acne medications • treatments for dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, and psoriasis • sunscreens You can find information on FDA’s website, under “Development and Approval Process (Drugs),” especially “How Drugs Are Developed and Approved.” If you still have questions about NDAs and OTC monographs, or any other aspect of drug regulation, please contact CDER. You can contact CDER’s Division of Drug Information, Small Business As-

sistance at CDERSmallBusiness@fda.hhs.gov or, for general drug-related inquiries, CDER’s Division of Drug Information at druginfo@fda.hhs.gov.

How are good manufacturing practice requirements different?

Good manufacturing practice (GMP) is an important factor in helping to assure that your cosmetic products are neither adulterated nor misbranded. However, while FDA has provided guidelines for cosmetic GMP (see “Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP) Guidelines/Inspection Checklist”), no regulations set forth specific GMP requirements for cosmetics. In contrast, the law requires strict adherence to GMP requirements for drugs, and there are regulations specifying minimum current GMP requirements for drugs [Title 21 of the Code of Federal Regulations (CFR), parts 210 and 211].

Failure to follow GMP requirements causes a drug to be adulterated [FD&C Act, sec. 501(a)(2)(B)].

How are registration requirements different?

FDA maintains the Voluntary Cosmetic Registration Program, or VCRP, for cosmetic establishments and formulations [21 CFR 710 and 720]. As its name indicates, this program is voluntary. The FD&C Act does not require cosmetic firms to register their establishments or list their product formulations with FDA. In contrast, it is mandatory for drug firms to register their establishments and list their drug products with FDA [FD&C Act, sec. 510; 21 CFR 207]. See Drug Registration and Listing System (DRLS and eDRLS).

How are labeling requirements different?

A cosmetic product must be labeled according to cosmetic labeling regulations. See the Cosmetic Labeling Manual for guidance on cosmetic labeling and links to the regulations related to cosmetic labeling. OTC drugs must be labeled according to OTC drug regulations, including the “Drug Facts” labeling, as described in 21 CFR 201.66 Combination OTC drug/cosmetic products must have combination OTC drug/ cosmetic labeling. For example, the drug ingredients must be listed alphabetically as “Active Ingredients,” followed by cosmetic ingredients, listed in descending order of predominance as “Inactive Ingredients.”

And what if it’s “soap”?

Soap is a category that needs special explanation. That’s because the regulatory definition of “soap” is different from the way in which people commonly use the word. Products that meet the definition of “soap” are exempt from the provisions of the FD&C Act because—even though Section 201(i)(1) of the act includes “articles...for cleansing” in the definition of a cosmetic—Section 201(i)(2) excludes soap from the definition of a cosmetic.

IHA

Hair Authority Winter 2020/21 33

No Correlation

Between Salons and the Spread of COVID-19

According to Professional Beauty Association Survey resenting 19,392 licensed beauty professionals and services for over 2 million+ clients since reopening. Of the 2 million+ clients, only 0.07% reported testing positive for COVID-19 within 14 days of visiting a salon.

The bottom line? Salons are safe for beauty professionals and clients.

Data reflects services provided by

2,532 SALONS

19,392

18,285 licensed beauty professionals provided services for

1,492 CLIENTS (.074%)

LICENSED BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS

shared their safety protocols

2,004,338+ CLIENTS SINCE REOPENING

REPORTED TESTING POSITIVE

within 14 days of visiting a salon.

With the 1,492 positive tests, there were 824 people within salons that were potentially exposed and 91 secondary cases.

IN ADDITION TO SALON SAFETY GUIDELINES, salons have implemented the following: • Sanitation stations • Pre-screening clients • Contactless payments • Masks and visors • Temperature checks • Ongoing COVID tests

• HEPA filters • Sanitation log and client log • No double booking | reduced capacity • Plastic barriers • No beverages or food allowed

Salons across the country increased their already rigorous safety protocols to safeguard against the spread of infection, including enhanced sanitization for both the client and the stylist, modified check-in and payment procedures, retrofitting of workspaces to allow for social distancing among many others. These efforts have paid off; there is no evidence that salons contribute to the spread of COVID-19 in their communities.

According to Leilani Lucas of Napa, CA, “We check everyone’s temperature when they arrive for their appointment.

If anyone feels ill, we welcome them to reschedule with no penalty. We have disinfectant at every station, as well as hand sanitizer and Lysol. We encourage touchless payments and do not offer drinks or magazines.”

The story is the same coast-to-coast. “Our sanitation practice is thorough and consistent, and we operate at less than 50% capacity when open,” states Tara Acosta of Philadelphia, PA. “After building a brand-new salon out last year, being closed for 14 weeks was devastating for us and our staff.”

In the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic, the $58B+ US salon industry has been hit particularly hard with forced closures, costing many salon owners and employees their livelihoods. As the beauty industry’s leading resource and advocate, the Professional Beauty Association recently published a survey of licensed beauty professionals to help the salon industry create consumer confidence with the goal of educating stylists and consumers that salons are safe.

The PBA found that not only are salons across the country following strict safety protocols but also that there is limited evidence that the salon industry contributes to the spread of COVID-19.

In the survey, 2,532 salons shared their safety protocols rep-

This sentiment is shared throughout the industry. ” My sales are down more than $20,000 this year. I have lost several dozen clients that have opted to not return to the salon out of fear …” shares Shelly Abbs of Molalla, OR. The latest survey data published by the PBA supports this shared point of view. “Aside from maintaining health as the most integral priority, we want to help ensure that the industry is minimally impacted economically. As with so many other industries, the beauty industry has been devastated by the pandemic.” says Steve Sleeper, Executive Director of the Professional Beauty Association. “The salon industry completes sanitization training as part of their licensing and has been using cleanliness protocols for years. Now, with extensive measures in place to protect against COVID-19, we see salons are safe and not helping to transmit COVID-19.

34 Hair Authority Winter 2020/21

The recent survey shows that less than .1% of visitors to a salon contract COVID-19 within 14 days, suggesting salons can safely stay open.”

Tera Moore of Denton, MD echoes this frustration. “I have been a licensed hair stylist since age 18. It is my love, my passion. It has been awful losing the ability to work. We should be able to stay open as long we are practicing safety just like the grocery stores.”

PBA has resources available to salon owners and stylists to help support them through this tough time. PBA joined the COVID Relief Now Coalition, and the PPP Forgiveness Coalition in an effort to work together to seek relief from Congress for small businesses and individuals. Salon owners and licensed beauty professionals are encouraged to explore funding opportunities through the SBA as well as state grants that may be available. PBA continues to share data with state government officials.

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100% of the donations are going directly to support licensed beauty professionals experiencing financial hardship due to the COVID-19 pandemic. The PBA remains steadfast in its commitment to continue its fundraising efforts to support the COVID-19 Relief Fund to help the beauty community during this difficult time.

About The Professional Beauty Association - The Professional Beauty Association (PBA) is the largest and most inclusive trade organization representing the entire beauty industry. PBA exists to elevate, unite and serve the beauty industry and the professionals who improve people’s lives and is the only national organization to represent the entire beauty industry. Our members include manufacturers, distributors, salons, spas, schools, independent practitioners, students and industry suppliers.

PBA is dedicated to advocating and fighting for the rights of the beauty industry, enhancing professionalism, and committed to the long-term success of the stylist and the businesses that employ and support them. For more information on membership levels and dues please visit: www.probeauty.org/join.

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Hair Authority Winter 2020/21 35

Hair Loss – Just a Cosmetic Problem?

By Hans J. Diks

Hair loss… You just have to learn to live with it Unfortunately, too many men and women hear this from their GP. There are millions of people in the world who are experiencing hair loss and it is having a tremendous psychological impact on them, but many doctors consider this a cosmetic problem and not a medical one.

Men shave themselves bald It’s OK for men to shave their heads. We are talking about men like Yul Brynner or Bruce Willis. But women are generally not considered sexy if they are thinning, and doctors who don’t take these patients seriously only make the problem worse.

The hormones Hair loss can have many causes such as hormone imbalance, diabetes, thyroid gland, and more. Stress can also be the cause and that can manifest itself in hair loss all over the scalp. It is estimated that more than 90% of all men experience hair loss with age. For women, that percentage is about 50%, but has been increasing rapidly in recent years. Why? The pill? We don’t know yet.

Research in women Researchers followed women with genetic (hereditary) hair loss for 24 months to see how they fared mentally. They found that if the hair loss had been left untreated during those 24 months, they all suffered from long-term psychological problems.

Subsequently, the subjects underwent a 6-month treatment including laser therapy, nutritional supplements and Minoxidil.

All the participants who had severe to moderate hair loss experienced psychological improvements at the end of the 6-month period. This was reflected in better self-confidence, less depression and fewer anxiety attacks. Social interaction also improved.

Rather wrinkles and weight gain rather than hair loss 45% of a group of 2,000 women from another study said they preferred wrinkles and weight gain to hair loss. Many women believe that their hair loss is caused by an indefinable health problem. This then becomes a vicious cycle with increasing stress which in turn can cause hair loss (Dr. Kinksly of the World Trichology Society).

Hans Diks is an international hair loss professional with extensive experience both as a clinic owner and educator. Located in The Netherlands, Hans is European Correspondent, International Hair Authority (IHA-USA). His insights and reports can be found at: https://hairauthority.com/european-report/ Hans also publishes in Europe: www.haarproblemen.nl and can be contacted at: hans@haarproblemen.nl IHA

36 Hair Authority Winter 2020/21

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