IHA Fall 2021 by The International Hair Authority

MARKETING

FASHION

SOCIAL Bright Times Ahead Maria Nila launches bleach collection Pg. 04

No-Shows Which cities are worst

BEAUTY The Thing All Women Do

FDA Bans Lead acetate in consumer hair dyes

That You Don’t Know About

Pg. 15

Pg. 26

Pg.22

International Hair Authority Volume 24 No 85

The Profesional Publication of Hair Replacement & Restoration

Winter 2021

Distributors At Risk Amazon is eying the personal care market. It began with a business relationship with L’Oreal and the company is now looking to establish new “partnerships” with other manufacturers in order to position itself as a trustworthy sales platform for all things beauty and personal care. Historically, hair loss has been a private concern with hair replacement salons and their suppliers providing confidential services. If a hair system distributor or manufacturer were to enter into a “partnership” with Amazon to take advantage of its online marketing expertise and rapid delivery, the hair replacement market as we know it would quickly unravel.

Louisiana Board of Cosmetology Adds Textured Hair Section to Cosmetology Exam

The Louisiana Board of Cosmetology (BOC) moved to revise its testing requirements to promote textured hair education throughout the state of Louisiana. Textured hair includes wavy, curly and coily hair. This resolution goes into effect in June of 2022. In doing so, the Louisiana Board of Cosmetology set a standard to ensure that the new generation of hair stylists in Louisiana will be able to care for all clients, no matter what their hair type.

Olaplex YTD Sales Up 128%

Men Age Faster It is common knowledge that on average men lose 30% of their hair by age 30 yrs., 40% by 40 yrs., and so on. But few people are aware that lines and wrinkles, the other sign of aging, appear on men’s faces ten years earlier than they do on women. Shiseido researchers believe this is largely due to men being more vulnerable to UV rays and the fact that they are less likely to use skin care products.

Beauty Services Demand Up 32% 11/2021 Scottsdale, AZ - The Professional Beauty Association (PBA) recently completed its 8th annual Executive Summit where 300 of the beauty industry’s thought leaders, top executives and leading salon owners met to look at trends, innovations, and opportunities in the professional beauty industry. Reports included information on the recovery of the industry in the wake of COVID and noted that:

Olaplex, first introduced to Hair Authority readers by Jimmy Toscano, is now worth over $15 billion. After going public in September 2021, the company reported year to date sales of $431.9 million, a gain of 128.4%. “We delivered an outstanding third quarter, reflecting the power of our disruptive business model focused on improving hair health with great products backed by science,” said JuE Wong, Olaplex’s president and CEO. The company is projecting a 2021 full-year net sales total of $580588 million, compared to $282 in 2020. • • •

Demand has increased for key services from a year ago, including a 32% increase in haircut and haircolor visits. One-third of those surveyed expect a continued demand increase in 2022. 71% of salon and spa professionals are committed to their profession, up from 66% in 2020.

MAKE YOUR WIGS ™ COME ALIVE

2 Hair Authority Winter 2021

Announcing WIG WAX by The first aerosol dry spray wax created just for wigs.

MSRP $2400 WHO IS IT FOR?

Anyone who wants to style and finish their wig just as they would their own hair. Works on any synthetic or human hair wig and extension.

WHAT’S SO SPECIAL ABOUT IT? • Lightweight wax for definition.

• Precision directional spray for an ultra‑fine mist. • Pliable texture for a perfect style every time. • Flexible hold for dimensional texture without sticky hair spray feel or residue. • Create the perfect finish. • Vegan, cruelty‑free, and gluten‑free.

Four new LOOK Fabulous wigs from TressAllure® The LOOK Fabulous collection is perfect for anyone who wants ready-to-wear styles that are light, airy, and fall into place keeping you cool on the go! Visit lookfab.co/authority for more information. Soft Wave Bob

Curl Intense

California Beach Waves

Sensational

For more: 800-327-5555 or visit: lookfab.co/authority WIGS AND EXTENSIONS® FROM

is a brand of Hair Visions Int’l.

Call 800-327-5555 to speak to a representative.

Editorial 2022 Year of Wellness – It was exactly one year ago that the first Covid inoculations became available and over the last twelve months people everywhere have realized that their health and vitality rests in in their own hands. If you are in good form, you want to keep looking and feeling good. If you took a hit, you want to put the pieces back together again and welcome your old self back to the bathroom mirror. Global Cosmetic Industry said it well in a recent newsletter, “It’s a new dawn, a new day and a new life” for you, and you’re feeling good! Welcome to a renewed age of self-love and positivity, and the arrival of a healthier, soaring, beauti-

Hair Authority Winter 2021 3

Consumers Are Developing Their Own Health Toolkits – Lifestyles are changing as people take take steps to protect their health. This chart shows how consumers responded to the question: “Which of the following, if any, are you doing more of since the pandemic started to manage your physical health/mental wellbeing?” Understand and Support - The past 24 months have been a time for reflection and deep thinking about priorities and personal values. In this issue of Hair Authority, we step aside from hair loss for a moment to share a moving article that begs for your understanding and support for women who have been exposed to insecurity and harassment in their personal lives and in the workplace. Professionals in the personal care industry are particularly vulnerable to this kind of abuse so I hope you will read and ponder these insights from Kelly Gretchen. Prevention is Better than Cure - The hair loss market was built on… hair loss. That’s why it came to be known as “Hair replacement” or Hair restoration.” But things have changed. This newspaper has always preferred the description, “Hair management”, but it may be time to go one step further and say, “Hair maintenance”. Hair management is part of the rapidly growing aesthetics industry and needs to integrate harmoniously with it in order to take advantage of shifting consumer attitudes about wellness, beauty, and healthy aging. Covid has alerted people of all ages and backgrounds to the need for self-care and this awareness is carrying over to personal aesthetics. A survey carried out by McKinsey learned, “While interviewing practitioners in Los Angeles neighborhoods, we encountered some practices that have a client base of 30 to 50 percent men, and teenage girls seeking lip injections and ‘prejuvenation’ to prevent the loss of youth.”

Source: GWI Zeitgeist September 2021. Base: 10,522 internet users in 7 markets aged 16-64.

ful spirit called YOU as you reconnect with the world.” As the perennial symbol of youth, and wellness, hair has never been more important. The challenge is to connect with the public in an intimate and genuine way. To demonstrate understanding and support. To become friends not salespeople.

It is time for the hair management industry to recognize that it is now an integral part of the personal aesthetics market and expand its offerings to other above the neck wellness benefits. The global aesthetics market is forecast to grow by 12 to 14 percent a year over the next five years. Since most hair management professionals already have an existing client base as a launchpad this is a no brainer. Best always,

Chris Webb

4 Hair Authority Winter 2021

Brighter Times Ahead MARIA NILA LAUNCHES FIRST BLEACH COLLECTION TO BE USED BOTH AT SALONS AND AT HOME Swedish and vegan haircare brand, Maria Nila, has launched their first bleach collection to round out their salon portfolio. With the “Brighter Times” bleach collection, Maria Nila was inspired to create a complete bleach concept aimed for long lasting results to be used both at salons and at home.

ahead. Bleach products always get more popular during spring/summer, and we thought this campaign was the perfect way to celebrate our new bleach line right on time for these Brighter Times.

Who are the people behind Brighter Times?

In this new collection, the treatment begins at the salon with a salon-exclusive Maria Nila bleach treatment and ends at home, unlike common in-salon treatments. Clients use Silver Shot, a 2 oz. violet-pigment post-care finishing treatment at-home to nourish their hair and prolong color in-between salon visits. Hair Authority contacted Neila Dahlande, Maria Nila Education Coordinator, to learn more.

Why is the program called Brighter Times? We chose to name this campaign “Brighter Times” as a salute to the brighter times we all aspire to; leaving this past year behind us, taking with us only the growth that we have achieved collectively and focusing on the brighter times

When developing products or campaigns, there’s a whole chain of people and departments working together to maximize the outcome. Behind our beautifully designed 100% vegan and animal friendly Bleach Collection, there’s a massive effort from Maria Nila’s own chemists, Maria Nila’s

Hair Authority Winter 2021 5 Brand Studio, our Maria Nila’s Marketing Department and, most importantly, to make sure we enhance our professional reputation and education Team.

hair might need more effort to lift than virgin hair. It is important for the stylist to know the hair history and process accordingly.

How come this product was developed in Sweden?

Hairpieces and wigs are often dyed, or color corrected to match a client’s own hair. Will Brighter Times work on hair that has already been colored?

We believe that there’s simply no room for cutting corners when producing high quality products. That’s why we take great pride in having our own factory in the south of Sweden. Here, we can monitor all aspects of the production process – from our chemists formulating innovative recipes, to our filling stations that compile the newly produced products in sustainable packaging

We always recommend doing a color cleanse before bleaching on previously colored hair.

Hairpieces and wigs quickly oxidize and lose color. Can Brighter Times help restore and match the original color? The Maria Nila Bleach collection will help you to reach the preferred level of lift on your hair. After that, you can use your color/toner of choice to match the client’s natural color. We recommend continuously using the Silver Shot to keep cuticles closed and prevent oxidation of the hairpiece. If you’re not looking to add extra violet pigments, you can simply leave it on for 1-2 minutes to only get the benefits of closing the cuticles.

Is it important to the company that its products are certified vegan and cruelty free? Yes! Due to Maria Nila’s philosophy of providing the world with 100% vegan and friendly products that are developed out of the love for animals and the environment. We believe that animals shouldn’t be a part of human vanity. We are striving to be a leading sustainable professional brand within beauty. We never want to compromise on function.

What makes Brighter Times different from other color enhancing hair care products? The design created by our own Brand Studio, really stands out on the shelves. With all Maria Nila creations, there’s a reason behind everything. For example, our developers are colored like the sunset from light to dark to make it easy for stylists to find the right volume going from 3-40. The cap for the developers is easy to open and use with one hand to help professionals’ multitasking. Brighter Times is a gentle bleach, developed to suit all needs – our Balayage Bleach has a clay formula that is perfect for free hand technique, and the Silver Bleach contains real violet pigments and a complementary Silver Shot for clients to use at home to maintain blonde tones. We believe our products will stand out from other developers.

Will Brighter Times work on non-growing hair, for example human hair wigs? Yes, it works equally well on both growing and non-growing hair. However, we always must take the hair’s history into consideration. Previously colored hair, or heavily treated

Explain the two-stage process. The first step is to perform the bleach session as usual in the salon. The bleach mixing ratio is 1 part bleach + 2 parts hydrogen peroxide. Our Silver Bleach works as a traditional bleach with plenty of added benefits such as the silver tone of the powder, which compared to blue colored powders doesn’t trick the eye by artificially neutralizing the golden tones during the process. This makes it easy for the hairdresser to see exactly when the desired level is reached and is ready to rinse. Then rinse bleach thoroughly with water and add desired toner if you wish. We recommend always ending each treatment with the Silver Shot – a violet pigmented finishing treatment with a low pH of 3,5 to neutralize golden tones, close the cuticles and prolong salon results. Leave

6 Hair Authority Winter 2021 the Silver Shot on for 2-10 minutes and rinse thoroughly with water. The Silver Shot is also available in 60ml for clients to buy. By using the Silver Shot at home after a treatment, the hair cuticle will continue to stay closed, which will result in a much more healthy, manageable blonde that stays cool for longer.

What happens in the salon? First, a proper consultation is vital. Make sure you get to know the hair’s history. Is there any possible metal residue in the hair? Was the hair previously colored? If so, do a deep cleanse before any bleaching treatments. Find out about the client’s normal hair care routine. What kind of maintenance is the client willing to keep up? After that, we decide on a suitable bleach technique. Use the Silver Bleach for traditional foils or full bleach, and the Balayage Bleach for free hand techniques. Remember: Any bleach starts oxidizing as soon as you have mixed the powder with hydrogen peroxide. Make sure to mix a new bowl every 20-30 minutes to get the most even, clear, and gentle lift possible. When we get to the finishing stages - it’s important to educate the client about the benefits of the after-care options such as the Silver Shot, to make sure they understand the benefit of using it to prolong the salon results.

What is the mode of action of Brighter Times? Both bleaches have a pH of 10.3 when the powder and developer is mixed together in a ratio of 1+2. This will open the cuticle and bleach the pigments inside the hair. The Silver Bleach is a traditional bleaching powder with added violet pigment that neutralizes the underlying pigments during the bleaching process for a cooler result. Our Balayage Bleach is

formulated with natural ingredients such as kaolin, xanthan gum and guar gum to increase the thickness of the formula, creating a paste that is ideal for free-hand techniques. The kaolin also creates a dry surface on top of your sections, while the formula stays moist and active on the inside, for a natural and smudge free lift. The Silver Shot is the final treatment that closes the cuticle. Since the pH is lower than the hair´s natural pH, the Silver Shot will help close the hair cuticles again and lower the pH back to its pre-bleaching state. The Silver Shot also acts as an antistatic, moisture-retaining, humectant, and conditioning agent for the hair/scalp thanks to the ingredients Guar Gum and Caprylyl Glycol. Always use the Silver Shot as a finishing treatment to preserve the hairs integrity after a bleach treatment.

What is the science behind Brighter Times? The active ingredients in bleach are persulphates. They function in the same way as hydrogen peroxide – they bleach the hair, but they are much stronger. Balayage Bleach and Silver Bleach differ in the concentration and types of persulphates they contain. Balayage Bleach is stronger. The Silver Bleach will also give you a cooler tone thanks to the real violet pigments. The developer’s main ingredient is hydrogen peroxide which develops into synthetic color in hair dye and oxidizes melanin (hair’s natural color) and strips colored molecules of their natural color. Silver Shot closes the cuticle thanks to the low pH, helps to prevent yellow tones as it contains complementary violet pigments and is boosted with emollients and humectants.

Explain the different components of the full regimen and how they work together. Do you need to use all the products, or can you select only a few? Silver Bleach – Traditional bleach that is generally used with all techniques including foils or other isolation such as highlights in foils, or foilayage. This is also perfect for bleaching roots or a full head. Balayage Bleach – This is a clay-induced bleach that creates a dry coat on the outside of your sections to prevent staining while staying active and moist on the inside. Perfect for all types of free hand techniques. Five developers - Levels of hydrogen peroxide in global units that come in volume 6, 10, 20, 30 and 40. Silver Shot - A finishing treatment to lower the pH of the hair after a bleach treatment. This is a wonderful product to restore hair health and to keep it strong and manageable after a bleach treatment. It closes the cuticle to make the toner last longer and can be used by itself to add violet pigments for Cont’d Pg 08

Hair Authority Winter 2021 7

Science + Aesthetics PROVEN NON-SURGICAL SOLUTIONS FOR THINNING HAIR Science meets aesthetics to give your patients something new: a complete system that targets thinning hair inside and out. While clinically proven ViviscalTM PRO Supplements promote existing hair growth in 6 months, XFusionTM by ToppikTM Keratin Hair Fibers conceal thinning hair instantly. Together, they offer the perfect complement to your hair loss treatments and procedures, giving patients the short-term and long-term solutions that they need to fight the effects of hair loss and boost their confidence.*

XFusionTM by ToppikTM Keratin Hair Fibers • Instant Transformation • Decades of Loyal Users • Confidence Booster

ViviscalTM PRO Supplements • Over 25 Years & 10 Published Trials • Clinically Proven

Customer Service (800) 277-3316 VIVISCALPROFESSIONAL.COM XFUSIONHAIR.COM Materials of Church & Dwight, Co. Inc., the makers of Viviscal™ and XFusion™ by Toppik™. Copyright© 2019 Church & Dwight Co., Inc. All rights reserved. * These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. This product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.

8 Hair Authority Winter 2021 neutralizing the natural underlying golden tones that naturally appear when lightening any hair.

Are there any side effects? Although Maria Nila Bleach Collection will give a gentle lift when used by a professional, all bleach treatments are in fact harsh on the hair and should only be used by trained experts. Remember, always do a proper consultation before you start to make sure you know the hair’s history. By doing so, you can create beautiful and bright results while simultaneously keeping the integrity of the hair.

Where can I buy Brighter Times in the US? You can find the whole collection in Cosmoprof stores, www.cosmoprofbeauty.com and Armstrong McCall stores in USA and Canada. For further questions, please check our website for tutorials: https://marianila.com/us/education/e-learning or reach out to professional.americas@marianila.com. IHA

Physical Appearance ‘No Longer The Defining Factor Of Beauty’ Reports Euromonitor International

by Kacey Culliney

Consumers worldwide now believe a healthy appearance, hygiene and cleanliness and feeling comfortable in yourself is what defines beauty, opening plenty of opportunities for functional, efficacious and authentic innovations, according to a report from Euromonitor International. The full report is available at: HTTPS://WWW.COSMETICSDESIGN-EUROPE.COM/ARTICLE/2021/11/04/ EUROMONITOR-INTERNATIONAL-VOICE- https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Article/2021/11/04/ Euromonitor-International-Voice-of-Consumer-Beauty-Survey-2021-shows-health-key-in-beauty?utm_ source=copyright&utm_medium=OnSite&utm_campaign=copyrightOF-CONSUMER-BEAUTY- SURVEY-2021-SHOWSHEALTH-KEY-IN-BEAUTY IHA

Hair Authority Winter 2021 9

Demystifying Sulfate - Free Cleansing Formulations

The beauty industry is ever-changing, and as the world turns away from SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate) and SLES (sodium laureth sulfate), there are new challenges that need to be addressed. As more people turn to SLS-free products, brands are scrambling to find an alternative ingredient that can thicken formulas without sacrificing clarity. We hope that the following Q&A will help address some common questions when developing these types of sulfate-free cleansers: What’s a surfactant? A surfactant is a chemical that helps lower the surface tension between water and the oils in your hair, which allows dirt to be rinsed off more easily. When the head of the surfactant molecule is hydrophilic (water-loving) and the tail is hydrophobic (water-oil-loving), then when it gets mixed in water, it will form small little balls called micelles. If you mix oil, water, and surfactant together, the oil will reside inside these micelles making it easier to wash away with water. Are all sulfate-free surfactants easy to thicken? Certain sulfate-free surfactants are easier to thicken than others. For example, Alpha Olefin Sulfonate is one of the more economical sulfate-free surfactants and is relatively easy to thicken.

On the other hand, glutamate-based surfactants (that is, derived from amino acids) are known for mildness and pleasing sensory, but are exceedingly difficult to thicken in a stable formula. What happens when you mix different surfactants together? In chemistry terms, when you mix primary surfactants with co-surfactants, you are changing the average surfactant head area, which in turn influences how the micelles are structured. This is how formulators adjust product performance. Additionally, mixing different types of sulfate-free surfactants can result in enhanced cleansing, foaming, and sensory properties, but become that much more difficult to thicken as well. Cont’d Pg 10

10 Hair Authority Winter 2021

‘No Longer The Defining Factor Of Beauty’ Reports

So how do formulators thicken these types of formulations? They do this by – you guessed it - changing the shape of the micelles! There are three classical ways to do this. First, you can change the shape from being spherical to being longer and thinner using a co-surfactant like cocamidpropyl betaine.

THE INTERNATIONAL TM HAIR AUTHORITY The Hair Authority’s mission is to provide hairmanagement professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will help them provide superior service to their clients and patients. It is a full-color tabloid, published quarterly and distributed worldwide. EDITOR IN CHIEF Christopher Webb

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Second, you can change it by adding more salt and potentially combine that with co-surfactants. And third, you can add more hydrophobic non-ionic surfactants thickeners like glyceryl laurate or laureth-2. These steps will all help to make that micelle shape less round and curved, thereby making the formulation easier to thicken. However, these approaches are generally more effective for sulfated surfactants. For sulfate-free cleansing products, the classical methods are often not sufficient to achieve desired viscosity or clarity.

Euromonitor International

This is where a different class of ingredients known as nonionic associative thickeners – such as Sorbithix L-100 – begins to play an important role in thickening. And unlike other thickeners, Sorbithix has a unique star polymer shape designed to connect with surfactant heads and tails, making it easy to form a large, linked network of micelles that boosts viscosity and stability. If you’re new or unfamiliar with this type of formulation, you can always find more information at www.applechem. com. Applechem is a cosmetic technology supplier with a diverse range of ingredients and intermediates for cosmetics, personal care, and sun care formulations. IHA

The views expressed in The International Hair Authority are those of the individual author or contributor and not those of The International Hair Authority, its editors or staff. The Authority’s contents reflect the opinions of the authors and are not analyzed, peer-reviewed or otherwise investigated before publication. All authors and contributors are asked to disclose any interests they have of a commercial nature. The International Hair Authority makes no attempt to validate the sufficiency of such disclosures and makes no warranty, guarantee or other representation, expressed or implied with respect to the accuracy or sufficiency of any information provided. The publication of an advertisement does not constitute on the part of the International Hair Authority a guarantee or endorsement of the quality or value of the representations or claims made by the advertiser. The International Hair Authority accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All articles and letters become the property of the International Hair Authority and may be edited for clarity, presentations and space. By allowing your articles, interviews and personal commentary to be used in The International Hair Authority, you are giving the publication permission to use these materials in its pages, websites and other information materials. Advertisers are required to sign a formal advertising agreement indicating that they are not violating any trademarks or other intellectual properties. Full details are outlined in The International Hair Authority Media Kit.

The material published in The International Hair Authority is copyrighted and may not be utilized in any form without the written consent of the editor.

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Hair Authority Winter 2021 11

Mmm… Your Hair Smells So Fresh! ‘DefineMe Hair Fragrance Mists’ Wins ‘Hair Care Product of the Year’ Award 11/21, Los Angeles: The Independent Innovation Awards Program, announced that Hair Fragrance Mist from DefineMe, offering a collection of scents that embody inspirational personalities, has been selected as winner of the 2021 “Hair Care Product of the Year.” The Independent Innovation Awards program aims to evaluate and recognize the most outstanding and innovative companies, services, and products within the rapidly expanding beauty industry. DefineMe’s Hair Fragrance Mists offers a choice of six different scents to hair while providing anti-frizz protection. The hair fragrance mists are made from DefineMe’s own fragrance blend with natural and essential oils, panthenol, chamomile extract, aloe vera

and a touch of coconut oil. The fragrances work on all hair types and blend well with other hair products such as dry shampoo or hair oils. “The idea came when I was told again and again that people were spraying perfume in their hair and I could only think how drying and damaging that is…” said Jennifer McKay Newton, Founder & CEO, DefineMe. “We take pride in thinking outside of the box.” The competition is relentless in the Beauty industry as consumers look for premium products and services that standout from the rest. The mission of the annual Independent Innovation Awards Program is to honor innovation and recognize excellence, hard work and success in a range of beauty industry categories. The 2021 Beauty Innovation Awards attracted over 2,000 nominations from around the world. About Independent Innovation Awards - The Independent Innovation Awards program is devoted to recognizing and honoring the most innovative companies, services, and products. The Beauty Innovation Awards provides public recognition for the achievements of beauty industry companies and products. About DefineMe - DefineMe is based in Los Angeles, California and is the brainchild of Jennifer McKay Newton. DefineMe is celebrating its sixth birthday in 2021. IHA

12 Hair Authority Winter 2021

About Retirement The following message was forwarded to The Hair Authority by a retired and respected hair loss professional who requested that we pass it on. We are not a political publication in any way, but it’s hard to argue with the numbers. Since many of our readers are either retiring or stepping back from regular work, we thought this information was worth sharing. A woman dies at age 65 before collecting one benefit check. She and her employer paid into the system for almost 50 years, and she collected NOTHING Keep in mind all the working people that die every year who were paying into the system and got nothing. The government is now referring to our Social Security checks as a “Federal Benefit Payment.” This is NOT a benefit. It is OUR money, paid out of our earned income! Not only did we all contribute to Social Security, but our employers did too! It totaled 15% of our income before taxes. (This should be enough for you to forward this message, if not read on.) If you averaged $30K per year over your working life, that’s close to $180,000 invested in Social Security. If you calculate the future value of your monthly investment in social security ($375/month, including both you and your employers’ contributions) at a meager 1% interest rate compounded monthly, after 40 years of working you’d have more than $1.3+ million dollars saved . This is your personal investment. Upon retirement, if you took out only 3% per year, you’d receive $39,318 per year, or $3,277 per month . That’s almost three times more than today’s average Social

Security benefit of $1,230 per month, according to the Social Security Administration. (Google it – it’s a fact). And your retirement fund would last more than 33 years (until you’re 98 if you retire at age 65)! I can only imagine how much better most average-income people could live in retirement if our government had just invested our money in low-risk interest-earning accounts. They did not have a referendum to ask us if we wanted to lend the money to them...and they didn’t pay interest on the debt they assumed. And recently they have told us that the money won’t support us for very much longer. (Isn’t it funny that they NEVER say this about welfare payments?) But is it our fault they misused our investments? And now, to add insult to injury, they are calling it a benefit, as if we never worked to earn every penny of it. Just because they borrowed the money, does not mean that our investments were for charity! Let’s take a stand. We have earned our right to Social Security and Medicare. Demand that our legislators bring some sense into our government. Find a way to keep Social Security and Medicare going for the sake of the 92% of our population who need it. Then call it what it is: Our Earned Retirement Income.

IHA

Hair Authority Winter 2021 13

CONGRESSWOMAN WANTS MEDICARE TO COVER WIGS Massachusetts congresswoman, Ayanna Pressley, has reintroduced a bill requiring Medicare to pay for wigs for those experiencing hair loss due to medical treatments or disease. Because Medicare considers wigs to be cosmetic, they aren’t covered under Original Medicare Part A or B, even with a doctor’s prescription. If passed, the bill would recategorize cranial prosthetics as durable medical equipment, making them eligible for coverage under the Social Security Act. “Every person living with alopecia, battling cancer, or facing another medical condition that leads to hair loss, should be able to access wigs and other head coverings,” she said in an interview with Vanity Fair. IHA

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14 Hair Authority Winter 2021

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Hair Authority Winter 2021 15

FDA Bans Lead-Based Neurotoxin from Consumer Hair Dyes The Food and Drug Administration has banned the use of toxic lead acetate in consumer hair dyes, a vital move to protect the public from hazardous chemicals Lead acetate is the active ingredient that slowly darkens gray hair when used every few days and can increase the level of lead in users’ bodies. “A ban on lead acetate in off-the-shelf hair dyes is long overdue,” said Melanie Benesh, a legislative attorney at the Environmental Working Group, one of a dozen public interest groups and individuals that petitioned the FDA for the ban. “There is no safe level of lead exposure, which has been linked to developmental issues, reduced fertility, organ system toxicity, cancer and other serious health problems,” she said. “We’re grateful for the FDA’s effort to protect public health from this source of exposure to one of the most hazardous chemicals known.” Scott Faber, EWG’s senior vice president for government affairs, said that although the decision is good news, it also shows the federal system for regulating cosmetics safety needs reform.

“The federal law designed to ensure that personal care products are safe has remained largely unchanged since 1938,” Faber said. “It’s good news the FDA has finally banned something as dangerous as lead from a product you put on your scalp. But it’s long past time for Congress to give the FDA the power and mandate to act quickly to protect us from dangers like lead acetate.” Faber urged the FDA to act quickly to grant EWG’s petition to ban the sale of formaldehyde from hair-straightening products. The cosmetics industry is a $60 billion-a-year business, and no other products are so widely used by American consumers with so few safeguards. Legislation introduced by Sens. Dianne Feinstein (D-Calif.) and Susan Collins (R-Maine) would require companies to ensure products are safe before placing them on the market and finally give the FDA the tools for ensuring the safety of personal care products. Collins has also introduced legislation to ban the toxic forever chemicals known as PFAS from cosmetics as well. IHA

16 Hair Authority Winter 2021

TIPS FOR YOUR NEXT MASS MAILING For More Successful Promotions, It Pays To Plan Ahead By Zuza Print, an all-in-one marketing support company

Chances are your business is just emerging from Covid and you’re looking to put some momentum into your marketing efforts. Mass mailing is still one of the most effective promotional tools, but the rules are constantly changing. When providing databases to be used for mailing or other marketing campaigns, it is important to follow these guidelines for formatting your address files. Unlike first class mail, undeliverable mail will not be returned to you, it will simple be discarded and you will never know. HERE’S WHAT YOUR MAILING HOUSE WOULD LIKE TO RECEIVE: • File should be an Excel spreadsheet (.xls or .csv) • File should have column headers (First Name, Last Name, Address, etc.). Headers should be clear and self-explanatory. • A separate column should be assigned for each variable field (such as name, title, business name, address). The only 2 exceptions where information can be combined are: 1) City State Zip, and 2) Full Name (ex. Mr. John James). • The address line should be in its own column, clear of

any other information, in order to pass the USPS address verification. For example, “1234 Fair Oaks Avenue Ste A” should be in a field by itself. Any other information such as department name, floor level, plaza name, care of name, etc. should be in a secondary address column. • Addresses should be limited to 2 fields. The USPS address verification can only verify 2 address fields. • File cannot have hard returns within a field. • Data should be formatted as the customer wants it to appear on printed piece. • For projects that use more than variable text (such as photos or signatures), it is highly recommended to con-

Hair Authority Winter 2021 17 sult your shipper. WHAT ABOUT SINGLE LETTERS? • If you are sending individual letters out to clients, be sure to address the envelope correctly. Here is some advice from USPS: • Always put the address and the postage on the same side of your mailpiece.

• On a letter, the address should be parallel to the longest side. • All capital letters. • No punctuation. • At least 10-point type. • One space between city and state.

EXAMPLE OF AN ACCEPTABLE DATABASE

• Left justified.

state, and ZIP Code. Then the machines look for a delivery address. If the machines can’t find either line, then your mailpiece could be delayed or misrouted. Any information below the delivery address line (a logo, a slogan, or an attention line) could confuse the machines and misdirect your mail.

• Black ink on white or light paper.

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• Two spaces between state and ZIP Code. • Simple type fonts.

• No reverse type (white printing on a black background). • If your address appears inside a window, make sure there is at least 1/8-inch clearance around the address. Sometimes parts of the address slip out of view behind the window and mail processing machines can’t read the address. • If you are using address labels, make sure you don’t cut off any important information. Also make sure your labels are on straight. Mail processing machines have trouble reading crooked or slanted information. Automated mail processing machines read addresses on mailpieces from the bottom up and will first look for a city,

IHA

18 Hair Authority Winter 2021

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Hair Authority Winter 2021 19

20 Hair Authority Winter 2021

INTERNATIONAL SOCIETY OF HAIR RESTORATION SURGERY HOSTS FIRST “WORLD HAIR TRANSPLANT REPAIR DAY”, NOVEMBER 11, 2021 Victims of botched hair transplant surgeries from fraudulent, illicit clinics eligible for free corrective surgeries from participating ISHRS physician members As part of the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery’s (ISHRS) Fight the FIGHT global consumer awareness campaign against fraudulent, illicit hair transplants, the Society announced its first “World Hair Transplant Repair Day” — designed to help people who have been victims of botched hair transplant surgeries from fraudulent, illicit clinics — was be held on November 11, 2021. Those interested in participating can apply for free reparative surgery through the campaign’s website at HairRepairDay.org. Launched by the ISHRS in 2019 in response to concern about the growing risk to patients of unlicensed technicians around the world illegally performing substantial aspects of hair restoration surgery, Fight the FIGHT is an acronym for Fight the Fraudulent, Illicit, and Global Hair Transplants. When performed by a qualified physician, a hair transplant is an excellent procedure for treating hair loss safely and effectively. The ISHRS is committed to patient safety and continually strives for the best outcomes for all patients, offering members superior education and training to improve their techniques. “Clinics using technicians to perform hair restoration surgery pose a severe health risk with serious side effects for patients — including permanent scarring, infection, and depletion from over-harvested donor areas,” said Paul McAndrews,

MD, FISHRS, president of the ISHRS. “World Hair Transplant Repair Day was created to raise awareness of this illegal worldwide practice and offer affected patients a means to work with a qualified hair restoration physician to try to correct their poor outcomes.” The ISHRS explains that many clinics around the world promote themselves as hair restoration experts — luring vulnerable patients with cheap prices and false advertising presented with misleading information — but are operating illegally and fraudulently and without the proper knowledge or training. In many cases, physicians do not perform the surgery and delegate the procedures to unlicensed technicians. The results of this illegal, black-market practice are often devastating. “The number of hair transplant surgeries has increased in recent years, but, unfortunately, this also brought about many inexperienced and illegal people to take a role in the industry,” said Dr. Ozgur Oztan, MD, member of the ISHRS Fight the FIGHT Subcommittee. “Poor planning, bad judgment, and sloppy techniques in hair transplantation will result in an unnatural look, cosmetic defects, and poor hair growth. Due to this fact, a lot of patients have endured unsuccessful and unnatural results, and this still goes on.” In an effort to help victims of botched hair transplants, those affected can learn more by visiting the campaign website and

Hair Authority Winter 2021 21 may have a chance to receive a pro bono restorative hair procedure with an expert member of the ISHRS or a member of a Global Council Society. “Our members are reporting an increasing number of patients coming to their clinics who have been victims of these botched hair transplant surgeries and are desperate for correction,” said Ricardo Mejia, MD, chair of the ISHRS Communications and Public Education Committee. “The ISHRS’s World Hair Transplant Repair Day is our way of raising awareness of this growing problem and helping people find solutions with qualified physicians of the ISHRS who have the education and training in the art and science of hair transplantation.” For more information or to take part in this worldwide educational campaign and event, contact fightthefight@ishrs.org and visit www.HairRepairDay.org. Hair Transplant Repair Day - About the ISHRS The International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS) is a global non-profit medical association and the leading authority on hair loss treatment and restoration with 1,000 members throughout 70 countries worldwide. Above all, the ISHRS

is dedicated to achieving excellence in patient outcomes by promoting the highest standards of medical practice, medical ethics, and research in the medical hair restoration industry. The ISHRS also provides continuing medical education to physicians specializing in hair transplant surgery and is committed to delivering the latest information on medical and surgical treatments to consumers suffering from hair loss, and most commonly from androgenetic alopecia – male pattern baldness and female pattern hair loss. It was founded in 1993 as the first international society to promote continuing quality improvement and education for professionals in the field of hair restoration surgery. For more information and to locate a physician, visit www.ishrs.org. Sharing is caring! Help us to raise awareness against illicit hair transplant clinics across the world. If you know of someone that has had a hair transplant gone wrong, let them know about the ISHRS World Hair Transplant Repair Day. This is a day which has been designated by the ISHRS where every year, on November 11, ISHRS members and members of a Global Council Society will be participating in providing a pro bono restorative hair procedure. Victims may reach out individually to listed participating physicians. Read the press release: https://bit.ly/3pUqPJs IHA

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22 Hair Authority Winter 2021

The Thing All Women Do That You Don’t Know About Kelly Gretchen Writer, blogger, over-thinker. driftingthrough.com We are reprinting this powerful article from Kelly Gretchen for the many cosmetologists and hair stylists who have been insulted or molested as they go about their business. We hope everyone will read it thoughtfully and take note There’s this thing that happens whenever I speak about or write about women’s issues. Things like dress codes, rape culture and sexism. I get the comments: Aren’t there more important things to worry about? Is this really that big of a deal? Aren’t you being overly sensitive? Are you sure you’re being rational about this? Every. Single. Time. And every single time I get frustrated. Why don’t they get it? I think I’ve figured out why. They don’t know. They don’t know about de-escalation. Minimizing. Quietly acquiescing. Hell, even though women live it, we are not always aware of it. But we have all done it. We have all learned, either by instinct or by trial and error, how to minimize a situation that makes us uncomfortable. How to avoid angering a man or endangering ourselves. We have all, on many occasions, ignored an offensive comment. We’ve all laughed off an inappropriate come-on. We’ve all swallowed our anger when being belittled or condescended to.

It doesn’t feel good. It feels icky. Dirty. But we do it because to not do it could put us in danger or get us fired or labeled a bitch. So, we usually take the path of least precariousness. It’s not something we talk about every day. We don’t tell our boyfriends and husbands and friends every time it happens. Because it is so frequent, so pervasive, that it has become something we just deal with. So maybe they don’t know. Maybe they don’t know that at the tender age of 13 we had to brush off adult men staring at our breasts. Maybe they don’t know that men our dad’s age actually came on to us while we were working the cash register. They probably don’t know that the guy in English class who asked us out sent angry messages just because we turned him down. They may not be aware that our supervisor regularly pats us on the ass. And they surely don’t know that most of the time we smile, with gritted teeth. That we look away or pretend not to notice. They likely have no idea how often these things happen. That these things have become routine. So expected that we hardly notice it anymore. So routine that we go through the motions of ignoring it and minimizing. Not showing our suppressed anger and fear and frustration. A quick cursory smile or a clipped laugh will allow us to

Hair Authority Winter 2021 23 continue with our day. We de-escalate. We minimize it. Both internally and externally, we minimize it. We have to. To not shrug it off would put is in confrontation mode more often than most of us feel like dealing with. We learn at a young age how to do this. We didn’t put a name or label to it. We didn’t even consider that other girls were doing the same thing. But we were teaching ourselves, mastering the art of de-escalation. Learning by way of observation and quick risk assessment what our reactions should and shouldn’t be.

It’s the reality of being a woman in our world. It’s laughing off sexism because we felt we had no other option. We go through a quick mental checklist. Does he seem volatile, angry? Are there other people around? Does he seem reasonable and is just trying to be funny, albeit clueless? Will saying something impact my school/job/reputation? In a matter of seconds, we determine whether we will say something or let it slide. Whether we’ll call him out or turn the other way, smile politely or pretend that we didn’t hear/see/ feel it. It happens all the time. And it’s not always clear if the situation is dangerous or benign. It is the boss who says or does something inappropriate. It is the customer who holds our tip out of reach until we lean over to hug him. It’s the male friend who has had too much to drink and tries to corner us for a “friends with benefits” moment even though we’ve made it clear we’re not interested. It’s the guy who gets angry if we turn him down for a date. Or a dance. Or a drink. We see it happen to our friends. We see it happen in so many scenarios and instances that it becomes the norm. And we really don’t think anything of it. Until that one time that came close to being a dangerous situation. Until we hear that the “friend” who cornered us was accused of rape a day later. Until our boss makes good on his promise to kiss us on New Year’s Eve when he catches us alone in the kitchen. Those times stick out. They’re the ones we may tell your friends, our boyfriends, our husbands about. But all the other times? All the times we felt uneasy or ner-

vous but nothing more happened? Those times we just go about our business and don’t think twice about. It’s the reality of being a woman in our world. It’s laughing off sexism because we felt we had no other option. It’s feeling sick to your stomach that we had to “play along” to get along. It’s feeling shame and regret that we didn’t call that guy out, the one who seemed intimidating but in hindsight was probably harmless. Probably. It’s taking our phone out, finger poised over the “Call” button when we’re walking alone at night. It’s positioning our keys between our fingers in case we need a weapon when walking to our car. It’s lying and saying we have a boyfriend just so a guy would take “No” for an answer. It’s being at a crowded bar/concert/insert any crowded event and having to turn around to look for the jerk who just grabbed our ass. It’s knowing that even if we spot him, we might not say anything. It’s walking through the parking lot of a big box store and politely saying Hello when a guy passing us says Hi. It’s pretending not to hear as he berates us for not stopping to talk further. What? You too good to talk to me? You got a problem? Pffft... bitch. It’s not telling our friends or our parents or our husbands because it’s just a matter of fact, a part of our lives. It’s the memory that haunts us of that time we were abused, assaulted or raped. It’s the stories our friends tell us through heartbreaking tears of that time they were abused, assaulted or raped. It’s realizing that the dangers we perceive every time we have to choose to confront these situations aren’t in our imagination. Because we know too many women who have been abused, assaulted or raped. Cont’d Pg 25

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Maybe I’m starting to realize that just shrugging it off and not making a big deal about it is not going to help anyone. It occurred to me recently that a lot of guys may be unaware of this. They have heard of things that happened, they have probably at times seen it and stepped in to stop it. But they likely have no idea how often it happens. That it colors much of what we say or do and how we do it. Maybe we need to explain it better. Maybe we need to stop ignoring it ourselves, minimizing it in our own minds. The guys that shrug off or tune out when a woman talks about sexism in our culture? They’re not bad guys. They just haven’t lived our reality. And we don’t really talk about the everyday stuff that we witness and experience. So how could they know?

drive. From adult men. We feel uncomfortable but don’t know what to do, so we go about our lives. We learn at an early age, that to confront every situation that makes us squirm is to possibly put ourselves in danger. We are aware that we are the smaller, physically weaker sex. That boys and men are capable of overpowering us if they choose to. So, we minimize, and we de-escalate. So, the next time a woman talks about being cat-called and how it makes her uncomfortable, don’t dismiss her. Listen. The next time your wife complains about being called “Sweetheart” at work, don’t shrug in apathy. Listen.

So, maybe the good men in our lives have no idea that we deal with this stuff on a regular basis.

Maybe it is so much our norm that it didn’t occur to us that we would have to tell them. It occurred to me that they don’t know the scope of it, and they don’t always understand that this is our reality. So, yeah, when I get fired up about a comment someone makes about a girl’s tight dress, they don’t always get it. When I get worked up over the everyday sexism I’m seeing and witnessing and watching... when I’m hearing of the things my daughter and her friends are experiencing... they don’t realize it’s the tiny tip of a much bigger iceberg. Maybe I’m realizing that men can’t be expected to understand how pervasive everyday sexism is if we don’t start telling them and pointing to it when it happens. Maybe I’m starting to realize that men have no idea that even walking into a store women have to be on guard. We have to be aware, subconsciously, of our surroundings and any perceived threats. Maybe I’m starting to realize that just shrugging it off and not making a big deal about it is not going to help anyone. We de-escalate. We are acutely aware of our vulnerability. Aware that if he wanted to, that guy in the Home Depot parking lot could overpower us and do whatever he wants. Guys, this is what it means to be a woman. We are sexualized before we even understand what that means. We develop into women while our minds are still innocent. We get stares and comments before we can even

The next time you read about or hear a woman call out sexist language, don’t belittle her for doing so. Listen. The next time your girlfriend tells you that the way a guy talked to her made her feel uncomfortable, don’t shrug it off. Listen. Listen because your reality is not the same as hers. Listen because her concerns are valid and not exaggerated or inflated. Listen because the reality is that she or someone she knows personally has at some point been abused, assaulted, or raped. And she knows that it’s always a danger of happening to her. Listen because even a simple comment from a strange man can send ripples of fear through her. Listen because she may be trying to make her experience not be the experience of her daughters. Listen because nothing bad can ever come from listening. Just. Listen. Need help? In the U.S., call 1-800-656-HOPE for the National Sexual Assault Hotline. IHA

26 Hair Authority Winter 2021

No-Shows: Boo!

New 2021 data shows which cities are most likely to pull a no-show for their beauty and wellness appointments – even though they’ve already prepaid for the appointment According to Booksy — a world-leading appointment booking platform and marketplace for service providers with tools such as calendar and appointment business management capabilities, payment processing, marketing tools, no show protection, and a responsive platform — customers in Minneapolis are mostly likely to dip out of pre-booked appointments with a cancellation rate of 2.37%.

BOOKSY ‘FLAKIEST CITIES’ RANKINGS Cities ranked in order of highest percentages of no-shows. • Minneapolis--St. Paul MN--WI Urbanized Area2.37%

• Milwaukee WI Urbanized Area - 2.19% • Chicago IL--IN Urbanized Area - 2.14% • El Paso TX--NM Urbanized Area - 2.11% • Portland OR--WA Urbanized Area - 2.03% • Austin TX Urbanized Area - 2.02% • Louisville/Jefferson County KY--IN Urbanized Area 2.02%

• St. Louis MO--IL Urbanized Area - 2.0% • Riverside--San Bernardino CA Urbanized Area - 1.99% • Phoenix--Mesa AZ Urbanized Area - 1.97% • Nashville-Davidson TN Urbanized Area - 1.38% • New Orleans LA Urbanized Area - 1.31% • San Francisco Urbanized Area - 1.30% • Cincinnati OH--KY--IN Urbanized Area - 1.22% • Bridgeport--Stamford CT--NY Urbanized Area - 0.98% IHA

Hair Authority Winter 2021 27

European News

Put Your Hair in the Bank

The search for the Holy Grail Hans Diks

European Editor, International Hair Authority

As a hair care professional, you will undoubtedly get questions about hair transplants. Clients may also ask what progress has been made cloning hair follicles. As you may already know, several labs are researching cloning hair follicles. The reason is simple. With most hair transplants, there is typically a shortage of donor hair to completely treat advanced baldness. Cloning hair follicles could solve this deficiency. So, for hair loss victims everywhere, this is a quest for the holy hair grail.

Hair in the bank In response to this pressing need, one company, “Hairclone” has come up with a treatment for freezing healthy hair

Dr Bessam Farjo

follicles from the donor until the technology is sufficiently advanced that they can clone and multiply the follicles for re-insertion. The man behind this exciting project is our well-known colleague, Dr. Bessam Farjo from the UK.

Hair cloning, save follicles for later Afraid of going bald? You can already store healthy hair follicles in the HairClone hair bank. These are hair follicles taken from the back that are not subject to hair loss. Not even later.

28 Hair Authority Winter 2021 HairClone Follicle Preservation Freezes Follicles for The Future.

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Dr. Sara Wasserbauer, a hair transplant doctor in Northern California, performs HairClone Follicle Preservation in the USA, a procedure that allows patients who expect to lose their hair in the future to store hair cells so they can be used when future treatments like cloning hair follicles become possible.

Dr Sarah Wasserbauer

The first step The first step is called hair banking, a method of preserving hair follicles when the cells are most active and vibrant. The most suitable candidates are at least 18 years old with a family history of severe hair loss so it is likely that they will not have enough donor hair in the future to treat the entire thinning area.

The method A date is scheduled for the procedure which will take less than two hours. For the procedure itself, Dr. Wasserbauer anesthetizes an area on the scalp that is about the length of a finger and removes up to 50 grafts for the sample. Dr. Wasserbauer then examines the sample and documents the exact number of hairs and what they look like and then stores them in a refrigerated box that is shipped to the UK where it is cryopreserved (frozen) until needed. Cryopreservation methods reach very low temperatures, so that any chemical activity in the cells is stopped. “We performed HairClone follicle preservation on patients in Northern California for the first time in 2020,” said Dr. Wasserbauer. “The hair follicles that we have removed are then cryogenically frozen, which stops the hair’s aging process. The follicles are stored in the UK, where tissue banking is approved by the government. We hope that the FDA will grant permission to store tissue in storage facilities in the United States sometime this year. “ You can never go wrong with the original Ghost Bond Water Resistant Adhesive by Pro Hair Labs that stands the test of time. Our ﬁrst high-performance adhesive contains no harsh chemicals, no toxic ingredients, and no latex so you can feel conﬁdent that you will get a superior hold that is safe and gentle to your skin.

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The sequel Once their hair follicles are frozen, donors will have to wait until the technology to clone hair follicles is ready. When thawed correctly, the hair cells will function normally again. The follicles are essentially frozen in time; the tissue remains viable for at least 20 to 30 years. Best regards, Hans @HansJDiks hans@haarproblemen.nl www.haarproblemen.nl (translation available in 5 languages) IHA

Hair Authority Winter 2021 29

Wigs for Kids Celebrates Wigs for Kids thanks its supporters and donors as it celebrates its 40-year Reunion & Celebration. Over the past 40 years, they have proudly served thousands of children and teens who have experienced hair loss due to medical conditions. The hair loss charity plans to continue providing hair replacement systems to recipients at no cost to them and announced, “We are launching our 40 for 40 campaign so that we can continue to serve children and teens in need. We hope that you will join us, helping us to reach our goal of $40,000.” If you would like to support Wigs for Kids by making a hair donation, start by following the 3 simple steps below. Then download and fill out your donation form. It can be found at: https://ol230.infusionsoft.app/ app/form/hair-donation?cookieSearchStarted=true&cookieUUID=5fad7898-098e-45ec-9aae-5a236f49fcc8.

40 Years

30 Hair Authority Winter 2021 1. Start Your Donation with Hair Length If you’re interested in donating your hair to kids in need, your first step is to set a length goal. While we accept hair donations of 12 inches or longer, we encourage you to donate 14+ inches of hair; the more length you can donate, the more of an impact you will make. 2. Get in Contact with a Hair Professional We rely on talented hair professionals to properly cut the hair ponytails and braids that are then donated to Wigs for Kids. The professional you contact must follow a few simple steps for cutting and donating your hair or ponytail. Details can be found at https://www.wigsforkids.org/donate-your-hair/ donate-a-ponytail/#section If you are donating at a Great Clips salon, please contact the salon directly to confirm participation. 3. Send in Your Hair Donation Place the dry ponytail in a sealed Ziplock bag and then inside a sealed envelope addressed to the address below. BE SURE TO INCLUDE YOUR HAIR DONOR FORM, BARCODE OR ID NUMBER IN THE ENVELOPE. DONATIONS WITHOUT A HAIR DONOR FORM, BARCODE OR ID NUMBER ARE UNDERSTOOD TO BE ANONYMOUS DONATIONS.

GUIDELINES FOR MEASURING AND CUTTING YOUR HAIR DONATION • Make sure hair is a minimum of 12 inches for proper hair donation length. We encourage you wait and grow a longer ponytail (14+ inches) to have the most impact on a child in need. • Pull curly hair straight for a more accurate measurement. • Start the measuring tape at the start of the ponytail. • Stop measuring where the ponytail starts to thin due to layers or split ends. • Hair must be clean and stored/packaged completely dry.

• Wet hair will mold in shipping and will be thrown away.

Hair cannot be permed, color-treated, or highlighted. • Learn more about our hair donation requirements. • • Temporary coloring or highlights that wash out are acceptable but must be completely washed out before cutting. Gray hair is accepted.

Tie hair into at least four sections (six are even better) around the head for a more generous donation. • Hair that is pulled into one ponytail or braid results in a loss of up to four inches of hair. To section ponytails: • Make a center part • Starting from this center part, part the hair over the top of each ear. This will create four sections of hair • To create four ponytails: • Tie the hair in front of each ear into ponytails, and then tie the hair behind each ear into ponytails. • Make sure each ponytail or braid is tightly secured. Hair that is loosely wrapped tends to become loose when shipped, making it unusable.

PLEASE be sure hair is tight and secured with several rubber bands 2-3 inches apart. • Cut hair above rubber band. • Seal all dry ponytails in a Ziploc bag • Place ziplock bag along with , barcode and \ or ID number in a sealed envelope addressed to: Wigs For Kids — Hair Donations 24231 Center Ridge Road Westlake, Ohio 44145 If your salon would like to do more to help Wigs For Kids, you can become an Ambassador or Affiliate Salon. Contact us for more information.

IHA

Hair Authority Winter 2021 31

Flash Reports Links to new products and events that came across our desk that may be of interest to readers. Hair Authority has no commercial interest or connection with these announcements. branded in a bold way and emphasizes that it is dedicated to men… Baseball star Alex Rodriguez has lent some swagger by partnering with Hims & Hers to back The Blur Stick concealer. It ticks the inclusive box by coming in eight different shades, while also emphasizing that it is dedicated to men.”

A Pillowcase That Improves the Look, Feel, And Health of Your Hair. Because they’re made from 22-Momme 100% Mulberry Silk, Blissy pillowcases aren’t just soft and smooth, they also reduce the friction on your hair. That means your hair won’t tug or pull and get tangled like it would with other pillowcases. And because there’s no friction to create heat, you won’t get breakages or split ends either. Even better, Blissy pillowcase won’t absorb moisture. Pillowcases made from other fabrics, like cotton, absorb an incredible amount of moisture from your hair – which causes it to dry out and become damaged. Over time, moisture builds up in the fabric and it becomes filthy. Every time you go to bed, all that built-up dirt and grease gets all over your hair! On the other hand, Blissy doesn’t absorb the natural oils and moisture found in your hair. That means your hair will be cleaner, your pillow will be cleaner, and you won’t have to wash your hair nearly as often!

Beyond Hair Mintel, is a leading market intelligence agency that provides a unique insight into consumer trends and new products. A recent Mintel report noted the trend towards genderless branding and changing attitudes towards male grooming. They recently flagged a new makeup collection designed specifically for men. “War Paint For Men is a makeup line

Beyond UVB Can blue light from smartphones and hours spent in front of a computer contribute to hair discoloration and oxidation? According to Mintel, high-energy visible light (HEVL) can reduce skin’s antioxidant levels. “Clinical studies have also implicated HEVL in a reduction in carotenoids (antioxidants) levels in the skin and inducing hyperpigmentation in light-to-medium brown skin, significantly more than UVB exposed skin.” Sederma, a French company, is researching ways of controlling the effects of blue light on the skin and reducing inflammation. Could an anti-HEVL serum help prevent hair loss?

32 Hair Authority Winter 2021

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34 Hair Authority Winter 2021 Beyond Home Delivery Keeps, the ecommerce hair loss provider, is planning to open a hair restoration clinic in New York City in 2022.

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The company established a successful telemedicine business offering “FDA-approved treatments delivered to your door,” but Keeps can now leverage information gathered from its photo consultations and mail-order prescriptions to promote profitable FUE procedures. The company also plans to offer PRP therapy and, of course, continued prescription drug support.

Give Your Hair a Break! Brushing your hair too vigorously can cause breakage and split ends. Wearers of hair systems and wigs may also experience hair loss as strong brushing loosens the knots that secure the added hair to the base material. Now there’s a better way. P&G and L’Oréal subsidiary, Kerastase have both developed “smart brushes” that measure the direction, force and velocity of brushing to help customers take better care of their hair.

Update Your Calendar Professional Beauty Association Announces new dates for ISSE, NAHA and Beacon 2022. You can never go wrong with the original Ghost Bond Water Resistant Adhesive by Pro Hair Labs that stands the test of time. Our ﬁrst high-performance adhesive contains no harsh chemicals, no toxic ingredients, and no latex so you can feel conﬁdent that you will get a superior hold that is safe and gentle to your skin.

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Due to the rising number of Covid cases, The Professional Beauty Association (PBA), the largest trade organization representing the beauty industry, has made the difficult decision to postpone January events until the Spring and Summer months. “While moving dates is not ideal, we felt it was the safest way to move forward for all in attendance.” says Nina Daily, Executive Director of the Professional Beauty Association. “Protocols will be in place for the new event dates to ensure the continued safety of attendees and exhibitors.”

36 Hair Authority Winter 2021