The Ionian July 2010 by Barbara Molin

The Ionian English Language Magazine For The Ionian Please recycle: give to a friend or neighbour when finished.

July 2010 Volume 1. Issue 5 COMPLIMENTARY/∆ΩΡΕΑΝ

Skorpios: Playground Of The Rich And Famous Lefkas Town In The Good Old Days Kefalonia: Hollow Mountain! The Ionian / July 2010 www.theionian.com Why We Sail? Inspect Before You Buy 1 News, Calendar, Greek καφενείο, and More...

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The Ionian CONTACT The Ionian By email: admin@theionian.com Via our website: www.theionian.com By phone: (0030) 69486 46764 By fax to: Barbara Molin c/o (0030) 26820 61306 Publisher: Managing Editor: Deputy Editor: Consultant Editor: Ithaca Editor: Kefalonia Editor: Sailing Editor: Business Advisor: Layout: Advertising: Printing: Distribution: Subscriptions:

Justin Smith Barbara Molin editor@theionian.com Cathy King Isha Peralta Ester van Zuylen Neil Evans Barbara Molin Yannis Dimopoulos Barbara Molin Barbara Molin Typografeo, Preveza Barbara Molin Barbara Molin

The Ionian encourages relevant letters, news items, photo-

graphs, and manuscripts. Please include high resolution digital images with your typed articles. Include a short bio (50 words), a head shot, your name and full postal address as well as email and telephone number. The editor reserves the right to shorten, modify or reject outright any material submitted. The Ionian reserves the right to re-use any submission in any edition, format or medium. We cannot take responsibility for manuscripts or photographs sent in. For more information request writers’ guidelines or check our website: www.theionian.com

Contents

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5 6 6 7 8 9 10 11 14 14

Ionian Community News Ionian Calendar The Greek καφενείο Of Roots And Radicals Neil Evans Easy Greek Recipe and It’s All Greek To Me Beauty and Health Shape Up For Summer Anne Ruffles Environment Ionian Flora Ester Van Zuylen Ionian Art And Culture Harris Louvros Dimitris Vogdais-Danis Ionian Good Old Days Lefkas Town In The 1920’s Elizabeth Parker The Ionian Destinations: Scorpios Playground Of The Rich And Famous Cathy King Ionian Destinations: Kefalonia Hollow Mountain! Neil Evans At Sea: Why We Sail Barbara Molin Be Practical! Inspect Before You Buy John Crompton Business Directory and Classifieds The Last Word Is Yours

Editorial

Bigger Is Better! I am happy to report that The Ionian has been growing steadily since the first issue hit the streets four months ago. We started with eight pages and 100 copies in March and April. In May and June we printed 1,000 copies of 16 pages and this issue will have a whopping 1,500 copies printed and distributed throughout the Ionian. All this for you, the reader, for FREE, GRATIS, ∆ΩΡΕΑΝ. If you are a new reader of The Ionian and would like to see how we’ve grown, you can read the previous issues online at: www.theionian.com. In fact our website has been growing steadily as well. We have added a new page for advertisers, where you can choose an ad of just about any size and pay for it with complete security with your credit or debit card through the PayPal system.

Check your bilges for those forgotten treasures! This month, Neil Evans talks about Roots and Radicals, Ann Ruffles makes dieting easy in Shape Up For Summer, and we give you a recipe for Tzatziki in Easy Greek Recipes as well as some new Greek words in our It’s All Greek To Me corner. Our Ithaki editor, Ester Van Zuylen has been hiking all spring and sends lovely photos of Felty Germander for our new column on Ionian Environment. Dimitris Vogdais-Danis interviews photographer and artist Harris Louvros for the new Art and Culture section and Elizabeth Parker is back with a vivid description of Lefkas Town In The 1920’s. Cathy King has been relaxing at anchor near Scorpios and sends in, Playground Of The Rich And Fa-

mous, while out on Kefalonia, Neil Evans digs deep to bring us Hollow Mountain! Yours truly tries to answer the question of Why We Sail and John Crompton is our practical man of the month with, Inspect Before You Buy. Enjoy reading. Γεια σου, ~~_/) Barbara Molin

Cover Photo: Red Sails On Port Tack © Barbara Molin — To purchase any of the photographs in The Ionian, please contact the Editorial Department: editor@theionian.com. Publisher/Editor: ©Barbara Molin; barbara.molin@theionian.com; Canadian Tax No: 442 203 188 GreekTax no: 148426549. Telephone: 69486 46764; The Ionian is published monthly. Published on the last day before each month, approx. Complimentary magazine: Publication is for informational purposes only. Although The Ionian has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions it may contain.

The Ionian / July 2010 www.theionian.com

The Ionian News Send your news stories and photos to editor@theionian.com Preveza Jazz Festival

Children’s Sailing Club Vliho Bay, Lefkada Island The Children’s sailing club had a couple of weeks break and now that the schools have broken up for the summer it’s time to get back out on the water and have some Pico fun in the sun! The club will now be on Fridays 11- 1pm. For other children & adults who would like to learn, lessons are now available, either in a ‘taster’ style or a more structured course, whatever suits you or your friends, contact Debbie to discuss on 6938705402.

Wildwind Vasiliki Watersports Festival How much fun can you fit in 10 days? Freestyle windsurfing, mountain bike race, sailing regatta, Miss. Bikini contest, parties, cultural events and much more. The Vasiliki Watersports Festival was a huge success last month on Lefkada Island. The festival was sponsored by Wildwind Sailing Holidays.

The Ionian has been getting quite a few enLeighton King photo tries for the calendar competition. Here is an amazing photo of lightning on Ithaca by Rien The Preveza Jazz Festival, May 28-29 was a Post. See below for more information about huge success with free concerts for all to enjoy the contest. in the old town and along the waterfront.

PHOTO CONTEST: Send in your best photos of the Ionian. Twelve winning images will feature in The Ionian 2011 Calendar. Sub-

ject: People, Nature and Landscape of the Ionian. Sorry, digital images only. One per email. Please check photographers’ guidelines at: www.theionian.com. The best photos will feature on our website and the winning entries will be published in The Ionian as well as the calendar. Deadline for entries: October 31, 2010. Send your entries to: photocontest@theionian.com. Please read the rules below. Contest Rules: 1. No purchase necessary. All competitions are open to readers aged 18 or over, except employees and their families of The Ionian, it's printers and any other company associated with the competitions. 3 All prizes must be accepted as offered. 4. There can be no alternative awards, cash or otherwise. In the event of a competition prize not being available, we reserve the right to offer an alternative prize of equal or greater value. 5. All prize details and prices are correct at the time of going to press. 6. Proof of postage cannot be accepted as proof of delivery. No responsibility can be accepted for entries that are lost, delayed or damaged in the post. 7. No correspondence can be entered into and no entry returned. 8. Any number of entries will be accepted, provided each is in a separate email. 9. The decision of the Editor is final. 10. Winners will be notified by post by way of an official letter from us, after the closing date, and the results of the competitions will be published in a future issue. 11. Entry implies acceptance of these rules. 12. While every effort is made to ensure all prize details are correct at the time of going to press, we cannot be held responsible for incorrect prize details supplied by sponsors. 13. Winners must be prepared to co-operate with publicity arising as a result of winning the competition. 14. Winners will be the senders of the first correct entries drawn after the closing date.

The Ionian Community Calendar Please submit your community events to: calendar@theionian.com or call: 69486 46764. Tuesdays - morning street market First Week of July: Navy Week. in Vonitsa. This festival celebrates the long relationship between Greeks and July the sea with special events in fishing villages and ports everywhere. 1-4 International Choral Festival of Preveza. For more information check: www.choralpreveza.gr Ithaca Municipal Gallery: June 25 - July 7 Bosmat Niron or email info@choralpreveza.gr. EcoArt 'Let's Make It Precious' 9 - 11 Nikos Garbis 'Coins And Jewels' 16 - Aug. 1 Ten images of Ithaca and the annual poste competition. The openings will be always at 20:30. The gallery is open every day, from 10.00- 13.00 and 19.00 22.30. Sunday only in the afternoon. Art Café, Corfu Town: (In the gardens of the Palace of St Michael & St. George) July 16 PAVERPOL Exhibition with artists Sylvie Ballenweg, Carla Bellou, Lon Korpershoek-

Kroos, Anna Jones, Mirjam Mulder, Eirini Penna, and Caroline Philp showing their work. 7 pm opening 17 - 31 10:00 – 19:00 daily

11 The Ionian 2010 Writers’ Retreat and Workshop organizing team meeting. Please call Barbara at 69486 46764 for more information. August Ithaca Municipal Gallery: 4 - 15 Tina Masha , Byzantine painting 17 - 31 Klara Koitler, Painting 15 Feast of the Assumption. Greeks celebrate Assumption Day with family reunions. 22-29 48th Lefkas International Folklore Festival.

The Ionian / July 2010 www.theionian.com

Of Roots and Radicals

The Ionian καφενείο

by Neil Evans Once, years ago, before the era of globalization, while waiting for my passport renewal to be finalized at the Australian Embassy in Athens, I asked the Greek guard why things seemed to change so slowly in Greece. His response was immediate and categorical – 'Here in Greece the roots go very deep!' Later, the mother of one of my very first friends in Greece encouraged me in my first tentative steps at learning Greek always to seek the 'root' of a word. Obviously the root of a situation is fundamental and vital, and full understanding of any phenomenon inevitably involves 'getting to the root of the matter'. So, η ρίζα (ree-za, 'root', in Greek) holds the key to gaining an in depth understanding of many aspects of life in Greece

– such as the Greek language's roots in ancient Greece, the roots of corruption lying in past foreign domination and occupation - by the Ottomans, the Venetians, the British, the Italians and the Germans - as well as the roots of modern Greek words and expressions. Two very interesting derivatives of ρίζα, the root, concern luck, fortune and destiny. Καλορίζικος (ka-lo-ree-zik-os) is a person who has been endowed with good fortune in life, while κακορίζικος (ka-ko-ree-zi-kos) the opposite. (Καλό, ka-lo, meaning good, κακό, ka-ko, meaning bad). And when an object comes into a person's possession, by whatever means, whether by purchase, gift, inheritance or pure serendipity, an appropriate blessing is καλορίζικος/η/ο, depending on the gender of the object. At weddings, exhibition openings and other events that mark the beginning of a new phase, it is common for people to offer

encouragement and hope by exclaiming καλορίζικα! (Good luck!) Yet another composite word formed from ρίζα is the word radical (ριζοσπάστης, ree-zospa-stis), which in Greek literally means 'breaker of the root'. Perhaps it's time we all examined our roots - where we come from, what holds us in place and where we gain our sustenance from - and put down new roots which provide everything the community needs in order to flourish in a sustainable environment; politically, socially and ecologically. Ignorance of the significance of 'roots' can only lead to misconceptions, mismanagement and misunderstandings. In reality we are all 'rooted' in the Earth as well as in each other, so an awareness of that interdependence is necessary if we are to overcome the many hurdles blocking our way to environmental and social stability and sustainability. Ριζοσπαστικός! Radical!

Easy Greek Recipe

IT’S ALL GREEK TO ME!

tζατζικι/dza-dzi-ki/tsatsiki

Greek word you already know:

Cucumbers of all sizes and shapes are everywhere in July and who can resist the lovely, creamy, thick Greek yogurt. Combine the two with some crushed garlic, olive oil and lemon juice for a sumptuous dish. 16 oz thick Greek yogurt 1/2 cup peeled and diced or grated cucumber (remove the seeds and drain well in a cheese cloth) 4-10 cloves garlic, minced (depending on your taste) 2 teaspoons lemon juice 1 Tablespoon olive oil Combine yogurt, cucumber, garlic, and lemon juice in a large bowl. Slowly add the oil, mixing well. Sprinkle with paprika, garnish with olives and chill before serving with bread, pita or cut up raw vegetable sticks. Delicious on a hot day.

Τουρíστας/turistas/tourist καλοκαίρι παραλία αυριο Καλός βράδι Φουρνος ποδήλατο βέσπα µηχανάκι αυτοκíνητο κινητό Μεσηµεριανή ανάπαυση

Ka-lo-ke-ri Pa-ra-li-a Av-ri-o Ka-los vra-thi Fur-nos Po-thi-la-to Ves-pah Mi-kha-na-ki Af-to-ki-ni-to Ki-ni-to Me-si-me-ria-ni a-na-paf-si

Summer Beach Tomorrow Good Evening Bakery Bicycle Scooter Motorbike Car Cell phone Siesta-all afternoon in summer

Health and Beauty Shape Up For Summer

moderate exercise such as walking and yoga to encourage a healthy blood sugar balance. A key by Ann Ruffles factor to this is the control of insulin which regulates the amount of sugar in our bloodSummer is here and many people want to stream, removing any excess, and preventing it reach their ideal weight! from being stored as fat. When insulin is reThere are many reasons why we put on weight, or why we cannot maintain our weight leased after eating sugary and refined foods, we experience highs and lows in our hunger levels. without a real battle. The usual culprits are It is better to eat foods with a low Glycemic eating the wrong foods, eating too much or too little, irregular eating, too many stimulants such Index. These foods are low in saturated fat and sugar. They naturally balance blood sugar, as caffeine and chocolate, stress, poor digesreduce cravings, increase energy and leave us tion, food intolerance, thyroid problems, poor feeling fuller longer. sleep, and lack of exercise. All too often it is Some examples are whole grains, high fibre simply that we are left feeling hungry because breads, oats, basmati rice, wild, brown, and we’ve eaten foods that are low in fibre and protein and rich in the wrong (simple) carbohy- long grain rice, cottage cheese, skimmed milk, berries, citrus fruits, seafood, lean meat, pasta, drates. all nuts in moderation, and leafy vegetables. Many of us may have tried dieting without success. This is because restricted eating causes For a complete list you can search online for the body to assume it is facing a period of fam- Low Glycemic Index Foods. The only way to lose weight is to burn more ine so it slows the metabolism, resulting in calories than you consume. To measure this weight gain when “normal” eating patterns are accurately, it is a good idea to calculate your resumed. actual “metabolic rate”, which is the rate at To enhance metabolism and keep the weight which your body utilises and burns calories. off permanently, you should eat an abundant Be aware that if you don’t eat enough calories variety of appropriate foods regularly, and take The Ionian / July 2010 www.theionian.com

your body slows down your metabolic rate, so that you will not lose any more weight. To help you count calories you may need the help of a calorie counter book. I can recommend “The Pocket Fat, Carbohydrate and Fibre Counter” by Carol Bateman. Of course many foods that are packaged carry this information. Keeping track of the calories combined with a healthy diet is an effective way to lose weight. But please note, as with any new exercise or weight loss program consult your doctor before making any dramatic changes to your diet or activity level. Ann Ruffles has 30 years experience teaching Home Economics and Food Technology in the U.K. She has a passion for nutrition. You may contact her through her website for more advice. www.yourforeveraloeshop.com

Environment Ionian Flora Felty Germander/Teucrium polium/Panagi贸horto The time of colourful wild spring flowers is now over, but there are certain plants that draw the attention on the dry and parched ground. At the moment the Felty Germander is clearly visible on exposed locations near the coast, because its blooming period is in June, July and August. This low-growing plant has very small white or pale pink flowers. It has a high drought tolerance and thrives on dry rocky places. Felty Germander is a dwarf shrub that grows up to 30 cm in height, and its flowers are hermaphrodite. It stands out because of its grey, narrow toothed leaves. The plant is self- fertilizing and is pollinated by bees. The bruised foliage releases a pleasant aromatic scent.

The common Greek name for Felty Germander is Panagi贸horto, which means the herb of the Virgin Mary. This indicates that the plant is treasured in Greece. In ancient Greece it was believed to have medicinal properties as a general tonic and remedy for many ailments. Dioscorides, a physician and pharmacologist from the 1st century AD, recommended it for stomach aches, fevers and colds. Much of our present knowledge of medicinal herbs originates from Dioscorides. Ester van Zuylen has been living on Ithaki for the past 6 years. She's an artist and a walking guide, and has a special interest in the history and the flora and fauna of the Ionian islands. www.islandwalks.com Photos by Ester van Zuylen.

Art and Culture Harris Louvros Interview With An Artist I was born in Athens and my first memories are in the dark room of my parents photo shop as they were printing all these lovely images of their time. Since then, the sound, the smell, the feeling of that world took me and raised me! By having a Polaroid

camera I started my profession and my journey in the world of images. I felt happy when I was 20, when some people looked at my images and said that they travel with them. Since then, this journey became the purpose of my life. Having a long time friendship with Dimitris Vogdais-Danis and after his gentle push, I choose to hold my new exhibition in Ithaca,

away from the very commercial circles of the city galleries. Ithaca for me has a big heart, a big love, and generally the Ionian islands are the best part of Greece. In the near future I will participate in the Nostos Password project in Istanbul from October 26 to 31, 2010 and after that I will have my new personal exhibition, The Box Project, which will be a combination of photos and video installations and will take place in Thessaloniki. Harris Louvros was interviewed by Dimitris Vogdais-Danis, the manager of the Municipal Art Gallery of Vathi in Ithaca.

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The Ionian Good Old Days from the villages with their produce to sell.

Lefkas Town In The 1920’s Traditionally the Lefkadian women carry their

parcels and other containers on their heads. Even today you will see some older women walking down the street with a black plastic The residents of Lefkas town ( or the Polis, in bag on their heads. Their posture and straight Greek), who lived here in the 1920’s would backs prevent the bags from falling. We could hardly recognise the vibrant, bustling town as learn a lesson from them. we know it today. There was no marina, few What has not changed for centuries are the cars, and life was lived at a more leisurely pace. houses and the narrow streets – known as The Paralia, or the sea front, con“Soukalia.” These streets sisted of salt flats and fish farms, were built so narrow and which provided livelihood and food labyrinthine to confuse for the Lefkadians. The main street, the marauding pirates known as the Agora, had one hotel, who often invaded Lewhich had 20 bedrooms and only one fkada island. Even now, if shower room and lavatory! you know Lefkas town In the main square, Agios Spyridon, well, you can avoid meetthe residents would sit in the small ing people you dislike by cafes over an ouzo or coffee or the winding your way local drink, soumada, which is made through the maze of back of almonds, and exchange news and streets! gossip. The houses in Lefkas are The barber shops were another place unique and colourful. where the men could meet. EngravBecause of the frequent ings or lithographs of historical events earthquakes which Ledecorated the inside walls of these fkada is prone to, the shops. From the ceilings hung cages of songhouses are built with wood, mortar and sheets birds, canaries, finches and linnets – which the of metal. After the severe earthquake in 1948, barbers themselves caught with bird-lime. people of Lefkada were too poor to reconstruct The women would come down to the town the town houses as they were before, so they used what was left of the ruins on the ground floor and built on a second storey with wood and metal. This method proved effective even to this day, as the buildings move with the tremor, instead of collapsing. Lefkada was the first island, along with Corfu to create a Philharmonic Orchestra. On every Saints Day, or other festival day, you will see the band parading the streets and you can hear the wonderful sounds of brass instruments echoing down the road. The wind-up gramophone, like the English barrel organ, was a favourite instrument in the old days. The organ

by Liz Parker

Barrels of wine ready for shipment

grinder would trundle down the Agora, cap in hand and people donated whatever they could. Even today you can see this phenomenon. Lefkas is also a host to the most famous Music and Folk Festival in Greece in August and boasts a music school for pupils of all ages. Thankfully Lefkas still keeps some of its traditional ways, although it is now more prosperous. Any 90 year old who makes a day trip from their Xorio (village) to the big town, will shake their heads and probably say, “ Etsi einai u zoe.” Such is life. But I bet they are all glad that they now have electricity and refrigerators, rather than having to keep their feta inside the skin of a rabbit to keep it cool. Some things definitely improve with time! After a career in theatre, film, and T.V. (Sean Connery was the best man at her wedding) in England, Elizabeth Parker came to Greece 20 years ago to run a Yacht Club and Taverna in Trizonia. She now lives on Lefkada island and writes novels. and travel articles. Photos courtesy local collections.

Europcar Dimitris Gantzias Area Manager Head office: 16 Panagou St.

Lefkas

“Rich people are willing to promote themselves and their value. Poor people think negatively about selling and promotion.” T. Harv Eker in Secrets of The Millionaire Mind The Ionian / July 2010 www.theionian.com

Tel: 26450 23581 Fax: 26450 23282 Mob: 6944 585911 trvlmate@otenet.gr www.lefkastravelmate.gr

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The Ionian Destination: Scorpios Island Skorpios:

Kennedy - married Aristotle the market at a reported price Onassis. The jet-setting tag of 100 million euros bePlayground Of The Rich Jackie O, as she was then cause she was no longer willing And Famous called, brought a new glamto pay the annual upkeep of 1.5 our to the island with her million euros for the island. by Cathy King trademark large sunglasses Bill Gates, Madonna and billionaire Roman Abramovich The green island of Skorpios lies off the east and sophisticated fashion sense. were all said to have shown an coast of Lefkada Island and is well known for Jackie O never stayed on interest. However the last surviits millionaire owner, Greek shipping magnate the island for more than a vor of the Onassis shipping Aristotle Socrates Onassis, who bought the couple of weeks at a time, dynasty quickly released a island in 1963. statement denying the story. Until his death in 1975, he used it as his sum- but she was a regular visitor Whether the island is for sale mer residence, although it is said that he never as were many of the couple’s celebrity friends. or not, the ghost of the high life actually spent a night on the island, preferring The peace and quiet of this in the 60’s and early 70’s still instead to sleep on his luxury super yacht lingers and lends it an enduring Christina, a 325ft converted Canadian convoy Ionian island cast a spell over her – it became one of appeal. Every day in summer ship moored in the island’s tiny harbour. her favourite places to relax. hundreds of tourists take a boat He bequeathed the island to his daughter tour out to the island from Nidri Christina and on her death in 1988 at the age of She would practise her yoga at the secluded beach hut on and dozens of yachts drop their 37, Skorpios was inherited by her daughter anchor off the shore. They go Athina. Aristotle and his daughter Christina are the south side of the island Onassis statue in Nidri, Lefkada and swim in the crystal clear Island. “Men have to construct there because they are curious buried on the island. to catch a glimpse of the OnasThe private island is where Jackie Kennedy water. It was evidently where their own destiny.” sis family’s private island that – the widow of assassinated U.S. President J. F. she felt most free - free from worldly responsibilities, free from the prying was once the playground of the rich and facameras of the paparazzi and free from the need mous. for bodyguards. And who knows - perhaps they hope a little of These days the island is empty of residents the old glamour rubs off on them. and visitors are not allowed. To the disappointment of the local residents, Athina Onassis Cathy King is cruising the hardly ever goes there. Boats are permitted to Ionian with her husband anchor off the island but landing is prohibited Leighton onboard their and a network of CCTV cameras watches its Saltram 40, Makarma. shores to prevent trespassing. In July 2009, a story appeared in the newspaJackie O’s cottage on Scorpios Island pers that Athina Onassis had put the island on

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The Ionian Destination: Kefalonia Hollow Mountain!

mountain is honeycombed with cavities and by Neil Evans potholes, perhaps extending from one side How many places on earth can you name where water from the sea of the island to the other, enters a rock pool, gets swallowed up by land and re-emerges 30 a paradise for kilometres away on the other side of the island after flowing under the speleologists, many of highest mountain in the region? whom have come from Many years ago, sitting in a cafe on the port road in Sami, Kefalonia, all over the world to with a friend I was astounded by his casual remark about the mountain explore this vast network opposite. 'That mountain's hollow, you know,' he'd quipped. I was of openings, fissures and incredulous – how caverns. could a mountain be Some of them are hollow? It seemed to incredibly beautiful defy all logic and azure waters that seem common sense. A luminous in the midday hollow mountain? That sun; deep circular, plantblasé remark rang in filled holes dripping with my head for a long time moisture rising from the afterwards, reverberat- turquoise waters cupped ing in the cavity of my in the base, as if poured Lake Melissani, Karavomylos mind until one day I into a huge hole drilled managed to put it into into the mountainside by some ancient Greek god. perspective. Some of these limestone caves, like Lake Melissani and Drogarati The answer came with Cave, have become famous tourist destinations, admired by thousands of the discovery of that awestruck visitors each year. Yet others lie hidden away from the public unusual phenomenon eye, known only to locals and a handful of caving enthusiasts. They are on the other side of that all jewels in the treasure trove of this wonderfully diverse island, each mysterious mountain. offering its own unique charm and mystique, some even having ancient Like something out of a Jules Verne novel, Sacred sites, domains of primal perhaps even the Part of 'hollow' mountain, showing a depression deities, playgrounds of the gods... formed by cavern-collapse, as seen from Sami. inspiration for his adventure Journey to myths associated with them - haunts of nymphs, dryads and maenads. the Centre of the Earth, there's a place called Katavothres, where the Their walls, stretched and deformed by aeons of seismic movement, earth swallows the sea, which endlessly disappears into a rocky poolsmoothed and polished by the interminable flow of water and time, hold studded shore. And where does it go? ample stimulation for vivid imaginations – here projecting a gorgon, This riddle was answered in the second half of the eighteenth century there a caryatid... They have at various times been places of ritual, by at least two groups of scientists who confirmed through dye-tracing worship and performance, natural cathedrals, even concert halls, both that a subterranean river flows from Katavothres on the west coast to Karavomylos on the east, visibly emerging only a few metres offshore in impromptu and festive. The allure of these spectacular places is undeniable, their mystique whirlpools and vortices of ice-cold, fresh water, even in summer. and spiritual power palpable – a period of time spent inside On its way, the river’s one never fails to instil a sense of divine wonder in the flow is augmented by the viewer. Sacred sites, domains of primal deities, playgrounds constant trickling and of the gods... all these and more spring to mind when one percolating into the enters the magical realm of Kefalonia's hollow mountain. mountain of countless winters' rainfall, adding drop by drop to the surge of this underground torrent. Having discovered this amazing geological phenomenon, the pieces of the puzzle of the hollow mountain began to fall into place. Indeed, as it turns out, the

Neil Evans, an Australian-Greek teacher, artist and writer, has lived on Kefalonia with his Greek wife for 14 years. Photos by Neil Evans www.yessy.com/neilos-art Melissani cave

©Barbara Molin

KARYATIS TRAVEL Tourism And Tour Operator JENNY NOTA EL. Vanizelou & Salaminos 1 PREVEZA Tel-fax: 2682301077 Mob: 6930800603—6949225729 Email:karyatistravel@hotmail.com www.4uthesite.gr The Ionian / July 2010 www.theionian.com

On The Water Why We Sail? by Barbara Molin Non-sailing friends and family often ask that question. They also ask variations on: "Don't you get bored living on a boat?" "What do you do all day?" and most seriously, "When will you return to a normal life again and live like the rest of us?" How better to combine a love of travel with dislike of packing, unpacking, waiting for planes, buses and trains, searching for hotels and restaurants with edible food everywhere you go, carrying backpacks or pulling stubborn suitcases along cobblestones or dirt tracks. Sailing. By sailing, the drawbacks of travel are totally eliminated because my suitcase, hotel, and restaurant are with me at all times. Like a snail (a pun intended as sailing is done at about five miles per hour), I take my home with me wherever I go. But it’s the freedom of being on the water that makes my mode of travel special. I make my own path and can choose to tie up at a busy marina or anchor in an isolated cove. Cruising by sailboat is more closely related to off-roading in a four-wheel-drive camper. Yet, benefits of sailing include the silence that can only exist in a road vehicle when you stop moving. Also, when I sail, I don't pay for fuel - the wind is free. I don’t take my life in hand at 60 miles per hour. I don't frighten off wild creatures around me - whales, turtles, dolphins that

play near my boat or birds that land close by. I never tire of the variety of colour the sky can produce from sunrise to sunset and even in the middle of the night. The rocking of the boat at anchor soothes me to sleep. I love the silence of nature or rather the lack of human sounds, and in the middle of the ocean I get my fill. No car alarms, no sirens, no planes taking off, no screeching of tires. Whenever I stay with friends or family in their homes I ache for a view of a sunrise or sunset, for the bright stars of a secluded anchorage, for the full moon lighting my path at sea. On land, unless you are very wealthy and can afford waterfront property, you cannot see the horizon; with the sun slowly poking its head from the other side of the earth at sunrise or almost hear the sizzle of it sinking into the sea at sunset. On my sailboat, even

among a hundred other anchored boats I feel like I matter; I’m an individual, a separate entity. Yet, there is a sense of community among boaters that I haven’t found on land. I feel like I belong to a clan. On land especially in an apartment, an office building, a mall or driving on a highway, I feel like a rat in a maze or a rabbit in its hutch. I feel the loss of my humanity, of what makes me special. At sea, I can breathe deeply, knowing the air is as pure as it gets on this planet. The lifestyle is healthy and promotes fitness. I am at peace with myself and the universe and the power that created it all. And when I need contact with people, I pull into a marina and get my fill of activity, noise and social interaction. Really, I see no drawbacks and only benefits of living aboard. So, now it is my turn to ask, “Why do you live on land?” After living aboard and cruising for 15 years in Canada, United States, Mexico, Caribbean and the Mediterranean, Barbara Molin arrived in Greece in 2007, and is now making the Ionian her new home.

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Be Practical! Inspect Before You Buy by John Crompton Buying your first sailing boat can be a nervewracking experience especially if you are fairly new to sailing, but with a bit of practice most people can become a fair judge of a boat’s condition. Even if you’re not technical by nature, by the time you’ve looked at four or five boats made by different builders you will have a good idea of what to look for, what you really want and most important of all, what to run away from. Here’s a short-list of five things to get you started. But remember, you’re going to be handing over lots of your hard earned cash, so Beware of a messy boat! before you start, take off the rose tinted glasses - it’s no time to let your emotions rule your First Impressions are important. Before head! Stick to the old adage, ‘If in doubt do you get on board take a good look. Does without.’ Before you start looking Take off your rose tinted glasses at boats, think about who will be sailing with you. Big yachts are wonthe boat look well cared for? Clean and derful but you need crew just to get them off tidy on the outside generally means it is the pontoon. If you’re not going to live on worth looking further. board but just want to take the afternoon or a Down below use your eyes and your week off and get out on the water, a 25-30 nose! Is everything up to date and well footer that you can handle on your own might installed or worn out and held together be a better bet. You can always charter a bigger with black tape and string? What does the yacht when your friends come to visit. boat smell like - sweet or sour? Beware of the smell of fresh paint as it can be used to hide less pleasant aromas. Inspect and test everything. This is when the hard work starts - remember, you are the customer - don’t be put off by a broker or owner who is in a hurry. Check every piece of equipment, all the instruments and everything that is included in the sale. If the boat is afloat, test the engine. Make a note of anything that isn’t working and everything the owner ‘promises’ to put right.

Get Down and Dirty – Open all the lockers, take up the sole boards and look everywhere. Check to see if the electrical wiring is neat and well fastened - if it’s like spaghetti, hanging in bilge water and has been chewed by rats, beware. Get alongside the engine with your torch out – they can’t touch you for it!! Is there more oil on the outside than on the inside? Does it look loved and cherished or abused and forgotten? Remember this is the most expensive thing on board to replace. Finally, once you have found your dreamboat make your offer to buy it

‘Subject to Survey’ and call in a professional. He will have inspected hundreds of boats and know exactly where to look for trouble. Some surveyors don’t want the buyer with them when they inspect the boat - I understand why, but personally I don’t mind. It’s the time when you will learn lots more about the new love of your life, so if you get the chance to be there on the day… take it. John Crompton runs Ionian Boat Surveys & Deliveries, based in Nydri. They carry out all types of surveys on pleasure boats in the Ionian area and deliveries throughout the Mediterranean. www.ionianboatsurveys.com

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The Ionian Business Services To advertise: Call: 69486 46764; Email: advertising@theionian.com or go online: www.theionian.com/advertising.html and pay by credit card, debit card, bank transfer or PayPal. Please submit your ad by the 15th of each month.

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EIDOS IS FOR SALE APARTMENT FOR SALE 60 sq. m. 30 years old. Centre of Vonitsa. 970 Euros per I have swallowed the anchor and am staying in sq. m. Please call Miss. Kirky 69371 15056 for the Ionian. So, Eidos is for sale. She is an East Orient 32, designed by Ted Brewer and built in more information. 1980 in Taiwan (lots of teak). Located in Aktio/ NEW APARTMENT FOR SALE 87 SQ.M. Preveza. Barbara: 69486 46764. More information at: www.seagypsysailing.com/boat.html Fireplace, central heating, b.b.q. veranda with awning, modern kitchen, storage room. Preveza tel. 69463 74794

BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES The Ionian is growing and so we are seeking independent, self motivated people for all the departments on all the islands of the Ionian: Administration, Advertising, Editorial, Production and Distribution. Only those persons with friendly, enthusiastic attitude, optimistic nature, endless energy, willingness to do what it takes, attention to detail, dedication, self discipline, and commitment need apply! Please email your C.V. with a photo to admin@theionian.com

MONITOR WINDVANE €3,000; 9 foot double hard bottom inflatable dinghy—needs work—offers, HP F2480 inkjet printer, copier, scanner. Used one month, like new. Extra cartridges, ink, box of paper €50. Singer sewing machine 110 volts €50. Violin 80€, Pentax K1000 SLR camera and lens, Sight Reduction Tables, Cruising guides, charts, books. Aktio 69486 46764.

RETAIL-WHOLESALE / OFFERS I have stocks for hotels/sailing boats or for personal use: Piquet covers jakar-white: 160x225cm and 180x225cm Towels-blue: 50x70cm Throws-caramel color:220x300cm and 220x350cm All 100% cotton, best quality and very low prices. Beach Mats-plain and towel (new product) various colors Beach/Garden/Yacht Pillows-waterproof100x100cm Address:Nikis 7-Preveza 48100-Greece Tel:+30 2682089484 Mobile:+30 69451 97439 (English/French/Greek) www.decostyle.biz e-mail:trentrad@hotmail.com HANDMADE KILIMS&CARPETS, HANDWOVEN SHAWLS/CUSHIONS/ CURTAINS/TILES/EXCLUSIVE HANDMADE TEXTILES

You Have The Last Word We welcome your comments, letters and emails. Please write, not exceeding 250 words to: editor@theionian.com . (Letters may be edited) lieve that Cleopatra then killed herself by clasp- How about some cartoons and humour in ing an asp to her breast to be poisoned by its The Ionian ? Here is my contribution to deadly venom. The truth is, no-one knows for get things rolling. sure. What is certain is that Octavian then beJ.C. (name withheld by request) came the undisputed master of the known world. Never Argue with a Woman One morning, the husband returns the boat to Cathy King answers: their lakeside cottage after several hours of Cleopatra fled Aktium with the remnants of fishing and decides to take a nap. Although not her fleet partly overland, partly through what is familiar with the lake, the wife decides to take now called Cleopatra’s canal back to Alexanthe boat out. She motors out a short distance, dria. The endgame came nearly a year later anchors, puts her feet up, and begins to read her when Octavian invaded Egypt to force the book. The peace and solitude are magnificent. country under Roman control. When the RoAlong comes a Fish and Game Warden in his mans entered Alexandria, Cleopatra barricaded boat. He pulls up alongside the woman and herself in her private quarters and gave it out says, "Good morning, Ma'am. What are you that she had committed suicide. When her lover doing?" Antony heard the news, he fell on his sword, "Reading a book," she replies, (thinking isn't only to learn seconds later that the report was that obvious?). false. Mortally wounded, he was carried into "You're in a Restricted Fishing Area," he inCleopatra’s presence where the couple were forms her. briefly reunited before he died. Shakespeare "I'm sorry, officer, but I'm not fishing. I'm readand the Hollywood movies would have us being." "Yes, but I see you have all the equipment. For all I know you could start at any moment. I'll have to take you in and write you up." "If you do that, I'll have to charge you with Dear Editor: It's a small world .. we are the sexual assault," the woman says. couple with Nelson (our dog), who you fea"But, I haven't even touched you!" says the tured in the story Mamma Mie Lakka! in the Game Warden. "That's true, but you have all the equipment. May issue of The Ionian about Louise's For all I know you could start at any moment." wedding on Paxos. We now live in Gastouri, "Have a nice day, ma'am" said the Game Warnear the Achellion, having given up full time den, and he left. sailing for a life ashore. Phil and Anna Jones Ed: Love it—send some more. We can always find room for good humour. Cleopatra’s Canal, Ag. Nikolaos I read with interest The Battle Of Aktium article by Cathy King in the June issue of The Ionian, and my question is—what happened to Cleopatra after she and Anthony were defeated by Octavian? Bob Phelps, Lefkada

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