The Ionian July 2011

The Ionian July 2011 Volume 2. Issue 4 www.theionian.com COMPLIMENTARY/∆ΩΡΕΑΝ Please recycle: give to a friend or neighbour when finished.

The Art Of Expat Farming Page 6

Wind page 12

In The Cart On Kalamos

Ionian News and more..

Page 10

Eat Fish page 4

Traditional Way Of Fishing In Amvrakikos Gulf Page 8

July 2011 www.theionian.com The Ionian 1

2 The Ionian www.theionian.com July 2011

The Ionian Address:

Lefkadiou Chern 24, Lefkada 31100, Greece Email: barbara.molin@theionian.com Website: www.theionian.com Fax: The Ionian c/o (0030) 26820 61306 Telephone: (0030) 69486 46764

Editorial

Making A Splash

What is it about the Ionian that’s so captivating and magical?

First, the special light - you can Founding Publisher: Justin Smith see it in some of the images our Publisher/ Editor: Barbara Molin photographers, Lies van t’Net, Deputy Editor Martin Stote Business Advisor: Yannis Dimopoulos Vasilis Lekkas and Bob Romero have captured.

Business Advisor: Ryan Smith Then there are the Greek people with their Accountant: Pavlos Dagla: 0030 26450 23008 strength, their resilience and their courage - we Greek Editors: Venetia Gigi and Vasilis Lekkas learn from them and then attempt the seemingly Kefalonia Editor: Neil Evans Children’s Editor James Mills impossible things we would never try back home.

Layout: Barbara Molin Read Barbara de Machula’s, The Art Of Expat Printing: Plamen Rusanov Farming - a portrayal of city folks’ growing pains.

Advertising: Barbara Molin Another part of the magic of Greece is this beautiDistribution: Barbara Molin Subscriptions: Barbara Molin ful land - supposedly created by God last, when He tossed into the air a leftover handful of pebbles to You can download The Ionian as a PDF document from our make the Greek Islands. Martin Stote’s story, In website: www.theionian.com.

The Cart On Kalamos is about one such island.

To subscribe, please call: 0030 69486 46764 Finally, there is the sea - which is so important to ΑΦΜ: 148426549. ΛΕΥΚΑ∆ΙΟΥ ΧΕΡΝ 24, ΛΕΥΚΑ∆Α, 31100.

ISSN 1792-4650. The Ionian is published monthly. Published on the Greek people and which attracts many of the the last day before each month, approx. Publication is for visitors. Anneke Nikkels writes about sailing on it informational purposes only. Although The Ionian has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in Wind, Venetia Gigi and Vasilis Lekkas describe The Traditional Way Of Fishing In Amin this publication, the publisher cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions it may contain. The opinions expressed vrakikos Gulf, while Ann Ruffles tells us about by the contributors are not necessarily held by the publisher. the benefits of the food we get from it in Eat Fish.

Yet, there are many countries where the light, the land and the sea are lovely. So it is the people, in July Cover Photo: Carlo Romero Makes A Splash. Photo by Bob Romero, Splashpics. To purchase any of the photographs in my opinion, who make the difference. I believe that The Ionian, please contact the Editorial Department: the Ionian attracts some very special people. And editor@theionian.com. so, I would like to thank some of them, the ones who have made The Ionian magazine possible.

PHOTO CONTEST: Send in your best photos of the Ionian. Twelve winning images will feature in The Ionian 2012 Calendar. Subject: This month, I would especially like to thank Yannis Dimopoulos for his business advice, Lee Gillson Ionian people, nature and landscape. Digital images only, horizontal format. One per email. Please check photographers’ guidelines and for her assistance with some of the advertising phocontest rules at: www.theionian.com. The best photos will feature on tography and layout, and Martin Stote for editing. our website and the winning entries will be published in the calendar.

Deadline for entries: September 30, 2011; Email: editor@theionian.com.

Enjoy reading...

~~~_/) Barbara Molin

July 2011 www.theionian.com The Ionian 3

News New supermarket opened recently in Nidri, Lefkada island. A Bite of British stocks typical English food - baked beans, mushy peas, Frey Bentos pies as well as a wide range of childhood favourite sweets Pastilles, Polos, Black Jacks, and others.

They have Ginger Beer, Vimto, Dandelion & Burdock, R. Whites and a range of Ribena Juices, as well as a varied selection of bitters, ciders and lagers such as Kingsmill Bread. To place an order: abiteofbrit-shop@hotmail.com A Bite Of British, Nidri Main Road, Lefkada Island (by the Tapas & Vino Restaurant & the Crazy Golf).

the good fortune to win one of the fabulous, and generously donated, raffle prizes, don't forget to claim your prize.

as defined by the red can buoys.

And in January we carried an account, also on the website, from another yachtsman who with his wife sustained minor injuries when their boat hit an Northern Entrance to Lefkas Canal New buoys were sited and dredging work obstruction the previous September. His started last month in the northern entrance boat suffered a split in the hull and a gash to the keel. to the Lefkas Canal to improve its A spokesman for the Lefkas Port Police hazardous conditions, a problem said as The Ionian went to press: highlighted twice this year by The “New markers have been put down and the Ionian . channel has been opened up. We are trying According to one yachtsman, Mike to help the tourists. But it is still the Hamblin, a row of ten new buoys have responsibility of skippers to be aware of been placed on the south side of the the dangers.” channel where there are submerged Meanwhile, the advice in our website obstructions, and dredging had started to The fund raising event for Mark story, which was the consensus of several reduce the sand spit on the seaward side.

Wycherely held on 29th May 2011 - which yachtsmen who know the entrance, still The Ionian told on its website on included a yacht race, an evening party, a seems relevant; stay as far away from the th raffle and an auction was a success raising June 15 how at least seven yachts had red can buoys as you can without gone aground or hit rocks or other debris 4,295 euros. The organizing committee inconveniencing other yachts, place a and Mark and Maureen Wycherely would within a fortnight while negotiating the lookout on the bow if possible, and take it entrance at the start of this year’s sailing like to thank all those who supported, very slowly. helped and attended the event. If you had season. They were all within the channel Martin Stote reporting.

Health and Beauty

sources are eggs, meat, milk and cheese which contain some Omega-3s.

These are vital for most functions in hen we think, learn or experience our brain and body, including vision, heart health, bone strength, fertility, emotions we change the activity of the hearing as well as memory and brain neurotransmitters which are chemical function. Over the past few decades, messengers in the brain. Both the brain consumption of such fish (salmon, and neurotransmitters are derived from trout, mackerel, herring, and sardines) nutrients and are therefore affected by has fallen. At the same time our what you eat and drink.” This extract is consumption of cooking oils, which taken from the Optimum Nutrition Bible written by Patrick Holford With this in mind then, intelligence, memory and mood can be improved upon Ann Ruffles just by considering the proteins, vitamins and minerals that you eat, but more importantly the amount of essential contain damaging levels of Omega-6s has Omega-3 fats in your diet. Unfortunately shot up. These include corn, sunflower, we have to eat these Omega-3 fats as the soya, maize and rapeseed oils, which are body cannot make them. also found in processed food.

We are lucky here in the Ionian because The reason why this could be bad for we can get a good supply of Omega-3 fats you, is that you have to get the ratio of by eating oil rich fish at least twice a week. Omega-3s and 6s right. We all need a You can easily buy fresh or frozen fish small amount of Omega 6 fats, but in anywhere, and I have lost count of the excess they interfere with the function of number of fish restaurants where you can Omega-3s. The ratio between the two used try fresh fish straight from the sea. Other to be 1:1or 2 but now it could be as much

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Eat Fish

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as about 1:20. With this ratio the antiinflammatory action of Omega-3 is reduced and may increase the risk of diseases including heart disease, stroke, arthritis, depression and some cancers as well as negatively affecting your brain activity!

I would suggest that we all cut down on frying in oils other than olive oil and enjoy fish grilled with a splash of olive oil, served with a delicious Greek salad and you cannot go wrong. Enjoy!

Ann Ruffles has taught Home Economics and Food Technology in the U.K. She and her husband Mike are now cruising in the Ionian on board their Spray 38, “Ruffles.”

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Living

The Art Of Expat Farming

©B. Molin

Barbara de Machula

F

or many expats, the siga-siga

were at it, why not enjoy fresh eggs every morning, laid in soft nests by our own tame chickens?

Everything is possible here, especially when you have space and neighbours who know what to do. And what a bounty followed! The first courgettes were welcomed and cherished.

- such taste, incredible, and without any pesticides! Pure sunshine made them shiny; the lovely yellow edible flowers

(slowly, slowly) way of life in Greece is like a warm bath to our souls. Many of us have lived in busy cities and that often meant that we had to go a long way to find a bit of nature (at least in Holland that was the case).

Boblet, the Owning a garden and watching things grow was not an option. We were lucky if ©Lies vant ‘t Net we had a balcony, and most plants died because of the lack of sunshine or because we forgot to water them. the sixth donation, our friends cast us Now here we are in Greece, where things strange looks, and every visit to our garden grow as if by magic. Stick something in left us more desperate and bewildered; the earth and it gets leaves and things were getting out of hand. The roots, flowers and fruits. What a Then recently the chickens started to unstoppable courgette plants took miracle! I looked on the internet over the garden, and we could not disappear. Our neighbour was in to find some information. I had get rid of them. The neighbours despair. this sensuous garden in mind with watched and called out "Orea!"blue and violet flowers, a sweet “Wonderful!” fragrance engulfing us in the evening as They could not understand our come as a bonus. Yummie! But, next day, we sipped ice-cold white wine while desperation at such a profusion of fresh again four courgettes, and then five watching the stars. veggies. But we were having nightmares courgettes, and then a bucket full of I imagined some easy veggies too, like courgettes and wow what do we do with a about being buried alive under mountains courgettes and tomatoes, planted with the mountains of courgettes? of courgettes, smothering us and help of our neighbours. And while we We gave them away to friends, but after suffocating us.

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However, things could have been worse, as the story of our brave friend living in the village next to us proves. He wasn’t content with chickens, veggies and fruit.

He had a pig, a real porker, a big pink sow which he bought from a farmer in the mountains.

Our friend felt like a real farmer. He made proper runs for his livestock, one for his chickens, and next to it, one for the pig.

He even threw a party to celebrate his venture into farming.

We all came to the party to admire his beautiful fat sow, and to congratulate him for having the courage to have real farm animals, and to abandon once and for all his life as a city dweller. He was free, a true countryman.

Again some reading, neighbours helped, suggestions here and there, and we all kept our potato peelings to feed his lady pig. It became a community effort and our friend was the king among the farmers!

Then recently the chickens started to disappear. Our neighbour was in despair.

Had they escaped? No, their run remained completely closed and in good order, and they were still too small to fly away.

Did a fox get to them? The run was inspected again. It was definitely intact. No fox could have reached his beloved chickens. Our friend wandered around the runs, of both the chickens and the pig, in desperation and ignorance… What had gone wrong? He consulted with his neighbours again, went back to his books, pig ©Bob Romero browsed the internet. But none could give him an

of his pork. But we will be on the lookout explanation. His chickens, like our for the slightest hint of the taste of chicken courgettes, were starting to haunt his in the chops. nightmares, with ghostly hens And I will bring a courgette salad! disappearing into clouds of mist…

Then one morning it all became clear. And the truth was a terrible shock.

His beloved fat sow greeted him with the remains of her breakfast hanging from her powerful snout. It was a chicken leg.

Even worse, it was the leg of one of his chickens. The pig had been pigging out on his poultry.

The transformation in our friend was immediate and overwhelming. He hated the countryside. He wanted nothing more than to be back in his London ©B. Molin studio, where the foxiest things were the highheeled models, sleek under the spotlights in the latest Barbara de Machula and her fashions; where the biggest husband Peter have four strema of chicken was the art director, land on the mountain near Agios and the account manager and Dimitrios monastery in Palairos the book-keeper vied to see with 10 chickens and a rooster, 1 who was the biggest pig. dog, 2 cats, and 6 puppies (looking There was even worse to for homes). In their garden they come. The pig, it transpired, grow tomatoes, fewer courgettes, had been a terribly calculating peppers, pears, plums and apples. killer. It had put its food next to the chicken fence for bait, and picked off The neighbour has a few chickens left but its victims one by one as they popped their has given up on raising pigs... heads through the wire, readymade chicken nuggets. It was the What to do with a mountain of pre-meditated murder of innocent courgettes and feather-brained victims, with gluttony as the motive.

Put 4 medium sized courgettes (skin and But we expat farmers remain all) in the kitchen chopper to cut fine. undaunted. We will all be at our Add 3 eggs, 300 grams of ground neighbour’s next party, when he has promised to barbecue his pig. cheese (kefalotiri), salt, pepper, and 1 1/2 cup of flour. Mix it all and put in We will toast his prowess as a farmer and admire the succulence oven for half an hour on 200 degrees.

ANTIFOULING PAINT AND

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Ecology

Traditional Way Of Fishing In Amvrakikos Gulf Venetia Gigi and Vasilis Lekkas Fisherman spearing eels ©Vasilis Lekkas

vivarium which means an area that nourishes life, and nowadays it means a eople who have visited Preveza fish farm.

The residents around the coastal region and the wider Amvrakikos area have of the Mediterranean, since the era of surely tried the local delicacies in the ancient Nicopolis, noticed the seasonal tavernas. And if they haven’t they should. migrations of fish. More specifically, Sea bass and grey mullet “petali,” red during spring, many species of fish and mullet, eels, the famous shrimps of especially young grey mullet, sea bream, Amvrakikos and the various oysters are and eels move from the colder and just some of them. But how does this nutritionally poorer waters of the Ionian seafood reach our plates? Let’s get to towards the lagoons where the environmental conditions (temperature, salinity, food) favour their growth.

In the autumn, the environmental conditions reverse and the fish move towards the open sea. These are the main migrations that man took advantage of by setting V-shaped traps on the fishes’ migration paths, namely in the openings of Wooden divari in the entrance of a lagoon, open for the fish toenter. ©Vasilis Lekkas the lagoons to the sea.

Initially, these traps were built from straw and canes and were supported on oak poles, while today they know some of the most traditional methods are built from metal and plastic and are much more durable. of fishing that have hundreds of years of Another fishing method also based on the history in the gulf. movement of fish, simple and quite One special method used in the lagoons efficient, is the “daliani”. It first appeared is the “divari”. The word divari – ivari – in Amvrakikos in 1922 introduced by a vivari originates from the Latin word

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refugee from the Black Sea. The daliani mainly works during the season when grey mullet are reproducing, when the female (bafes) and male (stiradia) grey mullet are moving in big shoals towards the Ionian to lay their eggs.

The fishermen install watchtowers in the fishes’ migration paths, from where they watch their movements, and where they lay a large net on the bottom of the sea.

When the fish pass over the net, the watchman (viglatoras) warns that there is a shoal. Two of the fishermen raise the ends of the net and trap the fish, while the rest of the fishermen approach the daliani with “priaria” (small boats especially designed for shallow waters) and collect the catch.

Finally, there is the “pirofani” method.

The fishermen use this technique in shallow water during dark nights when the

Lamp for pirofani. ©Vasilis Lekkas

sea is calm. A lamp is installed in the boat’s bow (years ago it was a grate filled with resin and straw set on fire) and used to see through the water. One fisherman holds the wheel or tiller and another one standing up on the bow near the strong light, watches for the fish, and harpoons them when they swim below the boat.

Fishing plays an important role in the area of Amvrakikos as it supports a large number of families. The traditional and

modern methods of fishing are exhibited in the Fishery Museum in Koprena, a village near the delta of the Aracthos river and of course you can learn more about them during the environmental presentations of Eco Cruising!

Vasilis Lekkas (marine biologist and ichthyologist with a Masters in “Coastal Zone Management”, PADI SCUBA diving and First Aid instructor) and Venetia Gigi

The traditional daliani method of fishing. © Lies van t‘ Net

(Fisheries and Aquaculture technologist with a Masters in “Coastal Zone Management”) share their knowledge and passion for the marine environment by taking guests Eco Cruising, in the Amvrakikos Gulf and the Ionian Sea. photos by Vasilis Lekkas www.eco-cruising.gr o.cruising@yahoo.gr

July 2011 www.theionian.com The Ionian 9

Destinations

In The Cart On Kalamos Martin Stote The tranquillity of the mountainside, with houses were abandoned, some no more the smell of pine carried on a gentle breeze than stone ruins. The little stone church e didn’t realize, when we booked soon soothed us. I learned later that it is a was locked. One house was inhabited by a our two-hour journey in a horse-drawn cart very rare type of pine forest; the only other very old woman, Nicole said. In the along the wooded mountainsides of one like it is on the Sporades islands in the doorway of another, a man chatted Kalamos, that we were the first customers Aegean. It is dense and home to many animatedly on his mobile. He was the only in an embryonic tourist venture. person we saw. species of birds.

Nor did we know, until we were about Nicole said that in winter less than a to clamber into the sturdy, blue, wooden We were anxious guinea pigs. dozen people lived in the village. cart, that it had no brakes. “I have asked And Nicole was very concerned Intriguingly, in the overgrown main about what we would make of courtyard of the castle stood a plastic a friend to make some, but all he makes her fledgling enterprise. is excuses,” said Nicole Muller, 45, our table covered in oilcloth, and a couple enthusiastic, pre-Raphaelite looking, of plastic chairs. Someone obviously Fifty minutes later we arrived in the German-born host. used this private and mysterious haven for village of Kastro, the former capital of the a quiet lunch.

So it felt a little like boarding a hippy island, which takes its name from its grand Our visit was not without souvenirs. Our tumbrel as we clambered up the back of but ruined fortified monastery. A quick the rustic carriage; its blue paintwork friends Richard and Ann found an ancient look at the Rough Guide would have decorated with little friezes of red and lemon tree in the castle grounds, and warned us what to expect. “...now yellow flowers by an English friend of picked a couple of lemons to go with our deserted and overgrown...its five-bastioned dinner. One was so ugly and misshapen it Nicole’s. castle is surrounded by derelict buildings,” looked like the Devil’s work. But it tasted The two wooden plank seats were just it said. big enough for four English bottoms. divine.

Indeed our journey’s end was a mainly Nicole, dressed in an arty, blue, loose teeBack in the main village of Kalamos, derelict village, which raised more shirt, sat up front talking to the horse, above the harbour, Nicole wanted to know Bonny, a 12 year-old bombproof gelding, questions than it answered. Most of the what we thought of her trip. We suggested, who has worked in the forests on the island for many years.

But although we were on a beautiful Greek island at 9.30 on a sublimely peaceful Sunday morning, there was a distinct air of nervousness in the air, as Nicole gave Bonny the nod to set off. We were anxious guinea pigs. And Nicole was very concerned about what we would make of her fledgling enterprise.

The only one not apparently fazed by the venture was Bonny, who plodded up the gentle gradient of the road running along the north-east side of the island, with a reassuringly rhythmic roll, encouraged by Nicole – “Bravo, Bonny. Bravo, Bonny.”

It soon became clear that Nicole was a very experienced horsewoman. She has lived on the island for eight years. She is married to a Greek, whose family come from Crete, and who owns a number of horses.

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somewhat stiffly, that cushions on the wooden seats might not be a bad idea. The price was realistic at 15 euros each for a two hour trip. The views across the water to Mitikas, and back to Hora, were spectacular. The forest was soothing. Our hostess was charming and friendly.

We also suggested that she could bone up a little on the history of Kastro. Back in George’s ever-popular waterside taverna, courtesy of his wi-fi connection, I did a little boning up myself.

History is there without a doubt. The castle monastery is thought to date back to the Byzantine era. The arches in the towering stone walls are what remain of

placements from which defenders fired on their enemies.

It is also believed to be the burial place of the mother of Georgios Karaiskakis, one of the heroes of the early nineteenth century Greek revolution against the Turkish Ottoman empire, who fought in a number of the major battles in the Greek struggle for independence. In 1826 he was appointed Commander in Chief of mainland Greece. He died of wounds suffered in combat.

I’ve been sailing to the enchanting island of Kalamos for the past ten years. But I wouldn’t have discovered all that if it

hadn’t been for Nicole and Bonny. I think they’re on to something.

Martin Stote, 62, a retired Daily Express staff journalist, has been sailing with his wife, Sue in the Ionian for ten years, initially with Sunsail, and now on their own 42-foot syndicate yacht Kanula. They love the islands for their beauty, and the generosity of the people. He is the new Deputy Editor with The Ionian.

Horse and Carriage Trips, Kalamos Island, Lefkados, 31081. tel: 26460 91226

July 2011 www.theionian.com The Ionian 11

On The Water

Wind Anneke Nikkels

has now given up trying to calculate a time of arrival. We here is hardly any wind, just enough lay becalmed.

When we are twisted around to glide gently through the water. All sails to face the wrong direction by are up and the boat is just manoeuvrable . the wake of another ferry we Less wind and we will turn in circles on decide to start the engine. We the swell. The sun is shining, we try to don’t want to have no steerage, catch some fish. Still 18 hours to go, tells with perhaps another ferry the GPS. bearing down on us. No more Well, around midday normally the wind silence on board. will come. We don’t fancy the noise of the Then suddenly we feel wind. The mainengine, so we go with the flow. The sail fills. The genoa shrugs back into life. shackle of the mainsheet squeaks on the Now we too have a wake. We turn off the boom, the exhaust opening gurgles in the engine – silence once more. There are still swell; in the distance we hear the sound of two hours to go. a ferry and a soft The waves monotone whisbecome bigWe don’t fancy the noise of the per of the VHF. ger, more engine, so we go with the flow.

There is nothing water splashes else to hear, not over the deck and against the windows. even a seagull. The sea is silent. Our Shall we put in a reef?

No, we are now expected time of arrival is now about 23 only 15 minutes from our destination. hours off.

Sails down, flapping canvas, wet feet on The boat rolls on the swell, then rolls the foredeck. We start the engine, alter harder on the wake of the distant ferry. A course for yet another ferry, this one comsmall fishing boat goes by, and the fishering out of the harbour. man waves at us. We wave back. The GPS

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Then we are behind the piers of the harbour. We have reached the end of our journey and our day. There is still quite a lot of wind, but no waves. The harbourmaster helps us to moor. Engine off, sails under the cover.

In the evening the wind dies again. Time for dinner and a glass of wine, as the sea gurgles gently around our boat.

Anneke Nikkels and her husband Frank left Holland three years ago on their sailing boat Pantaleimon. They sailed to Greece in one year and now spend five months of the year sailing there. The rest of the year they work in Holland.

Business Services

July 2011 www.theionian.com The Ionian 13

Also yachts for sale, sharp prices !!

New: sails, biminis, sprayhoods, lazy bags, covers, UV strips, and repairs.

14 The Ionian www.theionian.com July 2011

MISSED THE BOAT? To place an advert please call: 0030 69486 46764 or Email: advertising@theionian.com by the 10th of each month.

More information on our website: www.theionian.com

Classy Ads

Email: admin@theionian.com Strictly no business ads (except jobs)

FOR SALE - Peters 36 - a quarter share in a NAUTICAT 33 FOR SALE, 1995 Ketch, Re-rigged 2011, 130,000GB P. 6948491008 fine classic style yacht in long standing Ionian syndicate. Based in Levkas Marina summer or mumlovestravel@hotmail.co.uk 2011. £7,000 ono for 4-6 weeks sailing each year. Also: Mariner 4 hp outboard, 2 stroke, serviced 2010; CQR anchor 22kg; Anchor chain 10mm size x 48 m. 07831260321 philip.rutledge@blueyonder.co.uk

FOR SALE: Perkins 4-108; 1981; Warner & Borg Velvet Drive RH 1.91:1 ratio; 5000 hrs.

Shaft and propeller Michigan Dynajet 16X9, set of spare injectors. Euro 1500.

OFFSHORE CATAMARAN FOR SALE mwirth@vtx.ch

Owner designed and built. Plywood, epoxy and glass. 14 m. long, 7.5 m. beam. 36 h.p.

Yanmar diesel outboard. 6 solar panels, main battonsystem Frederiksen, genoa, jib, staysail, stormsail. Two refrigerators. Ready to cruise. Launched in 1996. Austrian flag.

2.6 m. hard bottom RIB dinghy with new Yamaha 4 h.p. outboard. 55,000 Euros.

Located in Ionion Marine, Aktio, Greece

You Have The Last Word We welcome your letters and emails. Please write, not exceeding 250 words to: editor@theionian.com (Letters may be edited.)

♦Would it be possible to put two ads in your next issue of The Ionian Magazine?

PS. I enjoy your magazine, keep up the good work.

Philip, Miss Tequilla, Levkas Marina.

No problem and they’re free as long as there is space left. If you would like a guaranteed space, it’ll cost you a little, but then you can include a photo as well. ♦ We saw a dead turtle in Amvrakikos

APARTMENT FOR SALE: 60 sq. m. 30 years old. Centre of Vonitsa. 970 Euros per sq. Gulf on the beach and are wondering if this is a big problem. m. Please call 69371 15056 for more Name witheld information.

There have been several sightings of dead Experienced CELLO player looking for others to play with. Willing to travel. I live in sea turtles recently and The Ionian is Palaeros and have a Steinway upright at home. planning to publish an article about the July 2011 www.theionian.com The Ionian 15 6971875968 or machula@xs4all.nl situation.

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