The Ionian July 2013

The Ionian July 2013 Volume 4. Issue 4 www.theionian.com COMPLIMENTARY/∆ΩΡΕΑΝ Please recycle: give to a friend or neighbour when finished.

Exploring: Aitoliko Lagoon Page 8

Be Dolphin SMART

The Art of Greek Sound

Page 11

Page 5

From a Rock to a Gem

Corfu Villages Page 10

Page 6

From Karya With Love Page 4

Capturing the Fragrance of the Ionian How to Make Your Own Jasmine Perfume Page 7

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The Ionian Contact us: Website: Email:

Summer Time...

www.theionian.com admin@theionian.com

After a cool and tempestuous early June, summer has arrived in full force with lots of sun and hot weather. No complaints—we all love summer and this is it! However, it must be that all the boat owners are busy with their preparations for launching or already on the water enjoying themselves instead of writing, because in this issue most of the articles Layout: are about land based activities.

Printing: We begin on page 4, with a description of a exquisite artwork developed by the women Advertising: of Karya. From Karya With Love is written by Sofia Samiou.

Subscriptions: The Art of Greek Sound by Barbara de Machula, on page 5, is a lovely story about the You can read or download The Ionian free different sounds she remember from her childhood and as well as the ones we all hear in on our website at: www.theionian.com, or Greece. She writes from her village of Palairos on the mainland. pick it up from our advertisers.

Next, on page 6 we have From a Rock to a Gem, by Helen Serras-Hermanan, an award The Ionian is published monthly winning gem sculptor, a story of her exciting discovery on Kefallonia. approximately on the last day before each Anke Ritter writes the second part of Capturing the Fragrance of the Ionian this time month. Publication is for informational How to Make Your Own Jasmine Perfume, on page 7. purposes only. Although The Ionian has And in case this is beginning to look like too many girlie articles, we have one about made every effort to ensure the accuracy of traditional boats and fishing in Exploring: Aitoliko Lagoon, on page 8 by yours truly. the information contained in this publication, Maddie Grigg interviews Steve Ford about his book, Corfu the publisher cannot be held responsible for Villages on page 10 and Joan Gonzalvo reminds us on page any errors or omissions it may contain. The opinions expressed by the contributors are not 11 to be Dolphin SMART while out on our yachts. necessarily held by the publisher.

Finally, thank you Lies van ‘t Net for this month’s cover photo as well as a Fishing Boat Collage on page 9 and a Published in Canada. photo here of a stork's nest with its own electrical connection high in the sky in Vonitsa. Does he also have WiFi Internet?

Cover Photo: Adonis, the fisherman by Next month we are planning a feature on traditional Greek Lies van ‘t Net. To purchase any of our phomusic and Café Culture and invite you to send in your photos tographs or to submit your own for a cover of all the bouzouki players you come across. shot consideration email us at: Founding Publisher: Publisher: Managing Editor: Advisory Board:

editor@theionian.com

Justin Smith Barbara Molin Barbara Molin Yannis Dimopoulos Ryan Smith Barbara Molin Graphic Arts Barbara Molin Barbara Molin

Enjoy reading... ~~~_/) Barbara Molin

July 2013 www.theionian.com The Ionian 3

The Karsaniko needlework, also known as Karsaniki stitch,

From Karya With Love

By Sofia Samiou

has been and is still today an artistic expression created exclusively by the women of Karya, Lefkada Island.

The Karsaniki stitch is a needlework technique completely different from any other stitch in Greece and abroad. The technique has been created by the women of Karya, one of the largest villages of Lefkada.

Its other name Lefkaditian stich or Lefkaditian needlework was used later by visitors of the island, who in the 1960's saw for the first time the magnificent work of the women of Karya and also of the nearby villages, where other women had already started to use this new technique.

M. Arvaniti has been creating embroideries since 1970 until today and with her love and passion for this embroidery, has created a huge collection with different colours, designs, and sizes using this stitch.

You can admire or buy one of these art works in one of her stores.

The shop, Karsaniko Kentima is located in the center of Karya

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that may not be considered so poetical, but still we have to endure or even appreciate ne of my earliest memories is the them. When we enjoy a cold beer at "Naftaki" (the little sailor), our local bar summer sound of crickets and cicadas, humming of bees and the wind through the near the harbour, we are bombarded with the sounds of Greek "entertainment." leaves of the large linden tree outside the The local guys love to show off their house, especially in the early afternoon noisy motorbikes, sometimes doing when I was supposed to sleep. My parents wheelies bar with a loud roar. The louder owned an old farmhouse with a vast amount of land in the Dordogne, in France. It was somewhere in the middle of nowhere on a hill

By Barbara de Machula overlooking the castle "Les Milandes" of Josephine Baker.

The nature was abundant, with plum trees, a vineyard, blackberries, even truffles.

My father was an accomplished cellist, and every year after the summer he performed the six suites of Bach in Amsterdam. Beside the old farmhouse was a studio with wonderful acoustics, where he practiced all summer.

And now, I also play the first suite with my cello pupils and it brings back those great memories of the sound of nature mixed with the sweet cadenza of Bach.

In fact I realize that my Greek house with the land around it has a strong relationship with this childhood paradise.

I still remember how at the end of summer we were visited by the low rumbling thunderstorms, and because sometimes lightning struck, one time even in the linden tree, which had an overhanging branch to my room, my parents found it wise to sit downstairs at the kitchen table drinking hot chocolate every time thunder could be heard at night. And oww how sweet was this chocolate and the better, and the loudest one wins and such cosy moments. So hearing the gets the girl. slightest rumble of thunder I would wait The other sound we hear from the for the chocolate ready in my pyjamas harbour, happens when inexperienced outside my bedroom door. sailors with their too large sailboats for our Now I live on the slopes of mount tiny harbour, try to anchor and moor at the Tserekas, and the same rumbling of quay. Often the poor wife stands in a thunder wakes me up and makes me think helpless position in her bikini, holding the of hot cocoa. mooring lines at the bow of the boat, while Nature provides us with great sounds, the her beloved husband shouts impatient hooting of owls, the sea, the crickets, the instructions from behind the steering singing of birds, it is all connected to our wheel and so creates a marital crisis to be.

Greek life in the nature.

We are the audience and feel superior to However, there are some Greek sounds

O

the clumsy victims - of course we can do better with our boats!

The fishermen keep a weary eye on the watery stage to see if their mooring lines are not dragged away by the floating plastic bathtubs or even worse, their beautiful ships get sandwiched and banged. If so, we hear a loud shouting from them in Greek we may better well not translate…

Another local sound is the talking on the telephone. It may be that Greeks think that a mobile phone works better if you communicate at the top of your lungs. You may be better understood, or your point of view has a better chance of being appreciated. The same goes for the heated discussions between Greek men, usually about either politics or football.

Both are of essential high value to Greek people.

Our village, Palairos is situated at one end of a huge bay, with a crystal clear blue sea and a large beach at the top end, which is sandy and shallow and ideal for kids and people who hate cold water. On the other side of the bay another little village called Pogonia lays on sleepy slopes.

Our beloved Giannis, who starts service in the afternoon at Naftaki’s, is the proud father of five stunningly beautiful daughters and is married to an equally lovely wife. His house is opposite our village in Pogonia, and he takes his duties as a father quite seriously.

His lovely daughters are spirited and spunky, and it is not very uncommon that they have a slight difference of opinion at home.

When things get really heated up, father's advice is gold and final.

They state their case over the telephone, and usually Giannis knows the best solution and tells them how the direction of things is supposed to be. This is one of the sounds we all value dearly. Giannis' voice does not need a phone, his advice can be heard all across the bay, to the opposite village.

That there is a phone involved, is mere coincidence.

After the wisdom Giannis shares with his daughters, all is at peace and in balance, like the cadenza of the Bach suite in summer, and we take another satisfied sip of our ice-cold beers…

The Art of Greek Sound

Barbara de Machula is an artist and a musician living on a mountain in Palairos. www.paintingholidaygreece.com

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From a Rock to a Gem

By Helen Serras-Herman

Near the town of Argostoli on the

island of Kefallonia, only 3.5 miles away, up on a rocky hill close to 1,000 feet elevation and offering a breathtaking view of Argostoli and its bay, is the picturesque village of Davgata. There, the remarkable Museum of Natural History of Kefallonia and Ithaca is located. Arriving at the museum in early afternoon on a late summer day during our 2009 trip, my husband and I were the only visitors.

The museum has some incredible displays of rocks, minerals, sands, shells, trees and plants of the island. We saw several specimens of Kefallonian Flint, but at the time we did not think much about it, until I talked with my friend Nikos Garbis - a wonderful local goldsmith, who showed me some rock specimens a German tourist had found. They were small broken off pieces that had good orange colour and translucency, and our thoughts went towards Quartz or Jasper.

there seemed to be a small outcrop of rocks among an olive grove and freeroaming goats. We stopped to give that place a try. Within minutes we started finding pieces of flint, some better than others, some encrusted with the white coating, some complete nodules. Keeping only the best specimens, there was still plenty enough for us and to share with our friends.

Kefallonian Flint jewellery

hounding and our warm friendships with other artists on the island. It also pays homage to my paternal grandfather’s island of birth, the island that I have been visiting since I was very young, and now travel from the faraway high deserts of southern Arizona to visit.

Flint carvings

Helen Serras-Herman is an awardwinning gem sculptor with 30 years of experience in unique gem sculpture and jewelry art. She was inducted in the National Lapidary Hall of Fame in 2003.

She lives in Rio Rico, Arizona, in the USA. See her work at www.gemartcenter.com

Later I talked with the curator of the museum, Mrs. Niki Katsouni, who All photos by Helen Serras-Herman confirmed the existence of flint on the island. The flint’s historical significance has also been revealed by recent archaeological research on the island that has discovered several Palaeolithic finds of flint.

Back at the museum, we looked with new appreciation at all the flint specimens and photographed them. The colours of Kefallonian Flint range from cream to pale yellow to reds and orange, bringing to Assortment of Flint mind petrified wood. Many of our specimens are bright orange-red. Some are Flint - what the material proved to be- is very translucent, while others are opaque. a cryptocrystalline variety (very small We were thrilled to have been able to compact crystals) of Quartz. Flint was locate this gem material. Flint is found in used in ancient times for tools because the many places in the world, and possibly in nodules would flake off easily by other places in Greece, but material from knapping, and for engraved seals. It the island of Kefallonia is not known to be usually occurs as nodules and masses, collected today or utilized in contemporary often with a rough thin white cover layer, lapidary or artistic jewellery. Later, I and has a glassy or waxy appearance. My carved some of those local rough stones, friend knew the town in the northern part and they became beautiful, unique gems, of the island where the specimens were similar to cornelian. found, but not the exact location. All he During my 30-year plus career in carving said was “it is near the sea”!!! gems and creating unique gem sculptures After a short rock-hounding exploration and jewellery, I am always excited to use Helen Serras-Herman wearing on the beaches, where we only found large new material, especially one that has one of her Kefallonian Flint white pebbles, we were ready to give it up. historic roots. As with all my artwork, I necklaces.

Driving back, I looked on the right hand want them to tell a story. This Kefallonian Photo by Andrew Herman side of the road, away from the beach, and Flint Collection tells the story of our rock6 The Ionian www.theionian.com July 2013

flowers to produce a fragrant water was further developed by the world famous artist and scientist Leonardo DaVinci into the method of steam distillation which is even today one of the major methods used to extract essential oils - the fragrant component of plants.

Steam distillation is suitable for fragrances that can withstand heating.

Therefore, it is the main extraction method of Lavender oil, Rose oil and Neroli oil - the essential oil from the orange blossom.

However, some fragrances are far too delicate to be exposed to heat. Jasmine essential oil for example would be destroyed by the heat in a steam distiller.

Those delicate scents must be extracted using cold methods. Today this is done using special equipment with solvents like hexane.

Before the advent of sophisticated solvent extraction, a much more simple and low tech method was used. A very gentle method called "Enfleurage" was How to Make Your Own Jasmine Perfume developed in France in the 19th century to produce high quality extracts of fragrant plants. This process makes use of the

By Anke Ritter ability of fats to absorb scents.

Because of its simplicity and gentleness we can use this very method in our own home to capture the scent of our most ne of the things that I most appreciate about living in favourite plants growing in our own gardens. It is a bit time Greece is the abundance of heavenly fragrant plants that grow consuming but highly rewarding with impressive results. here so easily: Roses, Jasmine, Orange blossom, Gardenia, Night Jasmine is an excellent plant to try out this technique, because it Jasmine, Star Jasmine, Bergamot ... Many of the ever favourite produces sufficient flowers over a long period of time and this is fragrant plants grow just by the roadside - wonderful! exactly what we want for doing Enfleurage at home.

Since ancient times, people were striving to capture and Anke Ritter is a horticulturist and jewellery maker, who lives with her preserve these fragrances for times when there were no fresh husband and son close to nature on an organic farm near Arta. flowers available. So they invented various techniques in order to www.orangeblossomfarmgreece.blogspot.com do so. With time, these techniques were refined into highly effective methods. For example, the ancient technique of boiling

Capturing the Fragrance of the Ionian:

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Step-by-step Instructions for Making of Jasmine Perfume The equipment: 1. A large flat dish from our kitchen, preferable glass or stainless steel.

2. A fat that is solid at room temperature, today the fat of choice is refined and odourless coconut butter or odourless cocoa butter, (in the past animal fats like lard were used).

The process: 1. Melt a quantity of coconut butter over low heat.

2. Pour the melted coconut butter into the flat glass dish so that you cover the entire bottom of the dish with a thin layer of about 0.5 - 1 cm.

3. Let the fat cool down and solidify.

4. Pick newly opened fresh jasmine flowers 5. Place the jasmine flowers face down onto the solidified fat.

6. Cover the dish with plastic wrap/cling film or something similar.

7. Leave the flowers for one or two days

Jasmine flowers on coconut butter

laying on the fat.

8. Remove the old flowers and replace with new ones.

9. Continue this process for as long as you have fresh supply of flowers or until you think the fat can not absorb more fragrance.

The result of this process is called an "Enfleurage pomade." The strength of the pomade can be tested by taking a small bit of it with the finger and rubbing it on the back of the hand. It should have taken on a

pleasant scent after only 2 - 3 changes of flowers.

This pomade can be further processed by scraping it off and putting it in a glass jar.

Then pure alcohol is poured over it. The alcohol will dissolve the essential oil captured in the pomade. To complete the process the alcohol is then evaporated and what is left is the pure fragrance of the jasmine flower called an "Absolute." The "Absolute" is what is used in perfumery as an ingredient to produce luxurious perfumes.

However it is not necessary to do this step. We can use our pomade as it is, as a solid perfume or highly fragrant cream.

Coconut butter is an excellent skin care product and can be used straight as a moisturizing cream. It has to be kept cool as it becomes liquid at temperatures above 27 degrees.

By the way Enfleurage can be done with many other flowers too, like gardenias, lilies, orange blossom, etc.

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Exploring: Aitoliko Lagoon

By Barbara Molin

and is connected to the mainland on each side by two bridges. n June, I drove from Aktio to Reading the description on a local map and later Wikipedia.org entry online, I Messolongi, past Vonitsa, Palairos Mitikas, Astakos and Katochi to see a bit learned that the Aitolikon Lagoon was of the area not seen from a yacht. About 10 created by an earthquake and is 28 meters kilometers north west of my destination, I deep. Its water is sweet. For this reason, it stopped at Aitoliko, a small town of about has better fishing than the neighbouring Messolongi Lagoon. In fact, both lagoons 7,000 inhabitants, shelter many species of birds and fish, as The old part of the town lies quite well as some rare species of romantically on an island plants and are considered as between two lagoons, the one of the richest areas in Aitoliko and the Messolongi Greece for fishing.

On the south east side of the town, I also found a lovely boatyard where traditional wooden boats are being built and repaired (see photos).

I

I wish I knew at the time that the tavernas of Aitolikon offer specialties such as smoked or salted Avgotaracho (Kefalos fish roe), which is famous around the world for its unique flavour and considered by some as superior to caviar. Another local specialty are eels slit open and lightly dried, then grilled on charcoal. Must go back soon!

View of the bridge connecting Aitoliko on the far side with the mainland.

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Photos: B. Molin

Photos: Lies van ‘t Net

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Steve maintains that a walk away from the resorts, you can find some of the most beautiful villages in the whole of Europe.

‘People remember the first time they came to Greece, The hospitality, the friendliness, the traditional way of life.

It still lives on in the villages today.

‘All the villages in the book have their own story to tell. They are all unique for some reason or another, whether it be for their history, landmarks, local traditions or views. All the villages in the book have been visited and photographed by me and each one I chose had to meet certain criteria so that the visitor would enjoy their trip to the hidden wonders of the real Corfu as it has remained for centuries.

The resorts of Corfu have been famous since the 60s and 70s, but the villages have

By Maddie Grigg been famous for centuries.

The difference is, they haven’t been discovered yet!’

Steve’s ebook is in full colour with text and there is also a Kindle, text-only version.

Books two and three will ‘The villages are special focus on the villages of teve Ford is a man on a mission. because they are mainly by tourism and After years of enjoying the many They are all unique for some remainuntouched traditionally Greek.’ things Corfu has to offer, he felt he reason or another, whether it ‘It is because of my passion for the wanted to say thank you. island that I have written the Corfu So he has set himself the task of be for their history, landmarks, Villages ebook. Now I want to pass writing about and photographing the that knowledge on and give all island’s lovely villages, raising local traditions or views. profits to the charities and money for Corfu charities in the villages of Corfu.’ process.

‘I have spent so many happy and Corfu Villages is available memorable times in Corfu, I thought from www.corfuvillages.eu it was time to give something back to the island,’ he says.

There are three e-books in Steve’s series and the first one – about the villages of central Corfu - has already received an enthusiastic response.

He has just handed over around 400 Euros to the Red Cross and 100 Euros Kanakades to the Pelekas food bank.

Corfu Villages

S

Doukades

the north and south.

It’s an ongoing labour of love for Steve, who owns a menswear shop in the UK in Wolverhampton.

‘I visit Corfu three to four times a year because it has become a second home to me and I feel part of the village life. I have made many friends since my wife Ann and I bought a small apartment in the olive groves on the edge of Pelekas seven years ago.’

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Kinopiastes

T

he waters of Greece still

harbour a remarkable diversity of cetacean fauna (whales and dolphins) compared to other parts of the Mediterranean. While today’s abundance of dolphins is likely only a fragment of what it was a century ago, important populations still live and reproduce in the Greek seas.

Watching these amazing creatures in their natural habitat can be an exhilarating experience. However, when we approach wild dolphins too closely, move too quickly, or make too much noise, we increase the risk of causing them an unwanted damage. Ambient noise is important to whales and dolphins because they rely on hearing to monitor their environment and use sound to communicate, navigate and forage. For instance, exposure to boat noise can have various adverse effects on dolphins, including important modifications of their natural behaviours, and changes of their respiration patterns and orientation loss.

In recent years, the number of recreational sailors, charter boats and flotilla sailing holiday companies operating around the Ionian Islands has steadily increased during the last couple of decades. This increase in boat traffic and the resulting disturbance pose a threat to cetacean populations and may cause unnecessary stress to the animals. Such threats can be easily minimised; when coming across a group of dolphins or whales, please, BE DOLPHIN SMART and follow these very simple and straight forward guidelines:

Be Dolphin SMART

By Joan Gonzalvo

Stay back 50 metres from dolphins (100m from whales) Move away cautiously if dolphins/ whales show signs of disturbance (sudden change in behaviour) Always put your engine in neutral when dolphins/whales are near Refrain from feeding, touching, or swimming with wild dolphins Teach others to be DOLPHIN SMART Approach whales and dolphins from parallel to and slightly to the rear – not from directly behind or head-on. When leaving whales or dolphins, move off at a slow (no wake) speed to the outer limit of the caution zone (300m) from the closest animal before gradually increasing speed.

Watch out for offspring presence! avoid disturbance to mother whales or dolphins and their calves. Mother and calf will be close together and the calves are sometimes difficult to see.

If there is a sudden change in whale or dolphin behaviour, move away immediately at a slow, steady pace.

Whales and dolphins sometimes form social groupings and may approach your vessel – if this happens place the engine in neutral and let the animal(s) come to you; or slow down and continue on course; or steer a straight course away from them.

Those of us lucky enough to spend a considerable amount of time at sea have also a responsibility towards our marine environment and the incredible

creatures inhabiting our seas. By choosing to follow the Dolphin SMART guidelines you will demonstrate that you care and a genuine concern for dolphin conservation and responsible wildlife viewing.

The Ionian Dolphin Project (www.ioniandolphinproject.org) is very grateful to Sunsail, Sailing Holidays, Neilson, Sail Ionian, Island Sailing, Seafarer and Kiriacoulis for promoting these guidelines among their clients. We hope to involve more sailing flotilla companies in the future.

Others willing to help are encouraged to contact us and we will provide them the support materials needed to help us spread the word about being Dolphin SMART. Joan Gonzalvo, Program Manager Ionian Dolphin Project www.ioniandolphinproject.org www.facebook.com/IonianDolphinProject ioniandolphinproject@gmail.com All images and art ©Joan Gonzalvo / Tethys Research Institute

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To advertise, email your ad as a JPEG photo to admin@theionian.com before the 10th of the month prior to publication.

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FOSTER AND PERMANENT HOMES NEEDED URGENTLY FOR STRAY DOGS, PLEASE CALL LEFKAS ANIMAL WELFARE SOCIETY (L.A.W.S.) IF YOU CAN HELP:

0030 697 851 0671

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The Ionian magazine is seeking Island Reps. If you live in the Ionian, like being your own boss, love people and this area, and can sell refrigerators to the Eskimos, contact us at admin@theionian.com for more information. We offer competitive commission on ads sold.

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Tell our advertisers you found them on the pages of The Ionian

Letters Dear Editor, Summer is here and finally the shirts come off! Here is a photo of a fit fisherman cleaning his nets, I spotted in Palairos. Hope you like it! For sure on our next stop in Palairos I will bring this fisherman his photo!

Lies van ‘t Net S.V. Jonas Dear Lies, Lovely photo, thank you. A quick call to our columnist, Barbara de Machula, who lives in Palairos revealed that the fisherman’s name is Spyros but we’re not sure if he will take us on a yachting holiday or if that is his telephone number on the banner behind him.

And just in case the men are feeling short-changed, we have a photo of a lovely girl on page 5 who is calling someone. Could it be she is hoping to go on a sailing holiday? Yes, summer is here!

Dear Readers, Just a quick note about the location names in The Ionian. We use as our guides Greece by Lonely Planet, Rod Heikell’s Ionian cruising guide and local maps. When those three don’t agree, we toss a coin!

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