The Ionian October 2013

The Ionian October 2013 Volume 4. Issue 7 www.theionian.com COMPLIMENTARY/∆ΩΡΕΑΝ Please recycle: give to a friend or neighbour when finished.

Sea Clown

Clear Water

Page 6

Page 4

Rod Heikell: The Accidental Sailor Page 8

The Oracle of Dodoni Page 7

The Art of Keeping Treasures Page 5

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The Ionian Contact us: Website: Email: Founding Publisher: Publisher: Managing Editor: Advisory Board: Layout: Printing: Advertising: Subscriptions:

www.theionian.com admin@theionian.com Justin Smith Barbara Molin Barbara Molin Yannis Dimopoulos Ryan Smith Barbara Molin Graphic Arts Barbara Molin Barbara Molin

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The Ionian is published monthly approximately on the last day before each month. Publication is for informational purposes only. Although The Ionian has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions it may contain. The opinions expressed by the contributors are not necessarily held by the publisher.

Published in Canada.

Cover Photo: Fred and Nikoleta Normal of Sea Circus, on bikes. Photo by Bots. To purchase any of our photographs or to submit your own for a cover shot consideration email us at: editor@theionian.com

Fragile ...

Most of us know that the earth and our lives upon it are extremely fragile. It doesn’t take all that much to lose what we don’t appreciate or look after. Or stand up for. In this issue, our final for the season, we focus on the vulnerability of our lives.

First, there is a cry by the residents of Kastos and Kalamos islands for Clear Water that may be threatened, as reported to us on page 4 by Jenny Goodhand.

Barbara de Machula tells us on page 5 about The Art of Keeping Treasures, mostly the natural ones but also the man made, and later rescued.

Next, Sharla Ault, in Sea Clown on page 6, interviews Fred and Nikoleta Normal, a young couple who are putting into practice their solution to living lightly on this earth and hope to inspire others to do likewise as they entertain local communities.

Sometimes, we do what we really want to only when faced with the stark reality of our own mortality. Rod Heikell, the man whose cruising guides are likely on every boat in this area, started his sailing career this way. In Rod Heikell: The Accidental Sailor, on page 8, he and his wife Lu talk about living the simple life and encourage others to do it now. Rod has recently published a book, The Accidental Sailor about his early days of living simply and lightly while cruising.

And finally, if we wish to know our future or the future of our planet, then why not ask an oracle? Read about what happened when I did, in The Oracle of Dodoni on page 7.

Have a wonderful winter and...

Enjoy reading... ~~~_/) Barbara Molin

October 2013 www.theionian.com The Ionian 3

W

e were enjoying a few

days on the quay on delightful Kastos Island, sheltering from some strong easterly winds. We like to sit and watch the world go by on our boat, particularly in the early evening.

On the evening of Friday, 16 August, we were intrigued to see a large crowd of locals gathering by the regular ferry, with a smaller ferry moored along side it. One by one people boarded this smaller ferry until it was bursting at the seams, leaving a smaller crowd of disappointed people. They were gradually fitted into smaller boats and with great excitement set off out of the harbour.

Wedding party we though?

Wrong day and wrong clothes.

Funeral? Far too much laughter!

The throng included all ages from young to old, men and women and

used in fish-farming would effect the wild fish which they would then eat. We can understand their alarm as

By Jenny Goodhand research carried out locally by the Tethys Research Institute and Oceancare, around Kalamos even the wheelchair dependent. and the Gulf of Amvrakikos has We had to go and ask our Greek neighbours and they told us it was shown that pollution from fish farming is harming the waters. a demonstration. We were very (www.oceancare.org). impressed that something had We have seen ourselves how aroused such strong feelings in a cloudy and smelly the water is population. around the farms and one of the Later we found that they had joys of Kastos and Kalamos are gone to a meeting in Kalamos to the crystal clear waters to swim or oppose the planned action of the sail in. Their livelihoods very Regional Authorities to develop much depend upon tourism. aquaculture and fish farming We wish them well in their activities in the region and, efforts to prevent the farms. It will according to the blog of Kastos , (www.Kastosisland.blogspot.com) effect all of us who enjoy the area. it had been done without Jenny and her husband, Paul consulting the residents or local authorities. Enough to cause anger have been sailing in the Ionian on in itself! A local gentleman voiced their our yacht, Gralyn, for the last six years. his concern that the chemicals

Clear Water

4 The Ionian www.theionian.com October 2013

The Art of Keeping Treasures

By Barbara de Machula

S

ometimes when I take the time to slow down and look

around, I am amazed by the beauty of our environment in the Ionian. I truly think this is the most beautiful place on earth, and it is such a blessing to be part of it. It hurts to see that pollution sometimes strikes, but luckily it is not everywhere.

I was moved when the other day a group of people cleaned the beach, parents and kids together where having a day out and happily gathered all the remains of human clutter with sticks and bags. After their work, they had a lovely picnic on the beach and I could see that they were proud of their good work.

There is a place on the mountain where people bring their garbage, and once in a while they set fire to it. It is the place where I go to look for treasures, as sometimes old furniture gets

tossed away there and you can find beautiful old Greek chests that only need a bit of patching up. In Holland, we have a lot of second hand shops; in Greece I could not find them. Here we take the environment for granted, there is so much beauty and unspoiled nature, it is sometimes overwhelming. But I realize that even here, the balance is delicate and we must be grateful and careful to keep the magic, and teach our kids the value of the crystal clear water that comes from the Korpi well, or the unspoiled landscape of the Ionian sea.

One way to become part of the beautiful surroundings is when I go out to paint, sometimes alone, sometimes with my students.

The landscape is never static, it changes with the light and the seasons; it is alive. I try to catch the magic and some of my favourite spots are mesmerizing.

At the foot of the castle in Vonitsa is a eucalyptus forest. The light there is amazing, and between the trees are the ruins of old castle walls and a beautiful old church. There is the constant chirping of cicadas and crickets, and some rare birds sing their song. In summer there is always a cool breeze and shadow. The faint smell of eucalyptus and the sea make this a special place. I often stop painting and close my eyes and think about the gift of peace and tranquillity this place offers to anyone who stops long enough to experience it. Strange enough, next to it is a modern club that seems totally out of place in this environment, but the forest is strong enough to make it blend in. The seafront is nearby and in the summer every morning that I was there, a group of elderly ladies passed by to have a swim, chattering like the birds in the trees, such a happy sight. I can see the Greek women enjoy the treasures of their country, the warm clear sea, the swim, the good vibes.

In this forest, history is all around you. The walls have holes where the guns used to fire to fight away the enemies.

And I expect a knight on a horse to appear any minute. I can imagine how it was, in the old days by the outside castle walls, once very busy, now quiet and serene.

I hope these treasures will stay unspoiled for many generations to come.

Barbara de Machula is an artist living in Palairos. www.paintingholidaygreece.com

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It was the last day of my Greek

holiday and while enjoying dinner in a street taverna, I heard a guy singing: "I'm normal, I'm a normal guy, I'm normal, I don't even try, I'm normal, I'm just a normal guy..."

On closer inspection, I saw a pirate.

On a tightrope.

Playing an accordion.

Welcome to Fred Normal's world.

Fred, 36, has been travelling the world as a street performer since 2001.

I asked him a few questions about his alternative lifestyle.

Where are you from originally?

I'm from Alaska.

What prompted you to leave Alaska and become a travelling performer?

Well, coming from Alaska, where giant oil companies play a huge role, I wanted to get away from digging in the earth and consuming the blood of old dinosaurs in the form of oil. In my early circus days I spent a lot of money on fuel getting from show to show, and at one point I thought: there must be another way, a cleaner way, that's gentler on the environment. So I started travelling by bike, in the show we called the Cyclown circus. I built a funny bike- it's actually 2 and a half bikes stacked on top of each other and I used it to travel all over Europe. I still use it to get around and advertise for our shows.

What is your training? How did you learn all your skills?

I participated in a few workshops, but mostly I'm self-taught, with some help from other performers, and with my partner Nikoleta and other friends we developed a performance that sends a message about conservation.

And all your shows all have an ecological message?

Absolutely. From the beginning, our guiding principle has been to travel without

Photo: Fred Normal

boat itself. Our entire show is run by sustainable energy: solar power for the lights and sound, and bicycle power for the lights and spots. Wind and pedal power get us from place to place. We've found it's possible to achieve really great things with a very small impact on the environment."

Where have you performed with Sea Circus?

We've been all over the Med, and more recently, in 2011 we toured the Sporades and Dodecanese Islands, in 2012 the Cyclades and in 2013, throughout the seven islands of the Ionian archipelago.

What is the one most challenging thing about your profession?

When people don't get our message: we are not just performers but we are doing this as a wake-up call for our Interview by Sharla Ault fragile planet.

And the most rewarding?

The smiles on people’s faces when they are watching us. We perform in some remote places, and villagers tell us it is the first circus they have ever Photo: Georgos Garozis seen, and the only show that performs on their island. Kids love the show and using fossil fuels and to spread a message we get lots of comments from people that of positive change. We want to inspire, to really "get" our message: that makes us feel show people that a different way of life is great. feasible, even fun. We bring our shows to Anything else to add? places that wouldn’t otherwise get to enjoy Yeah, Nikoleta and I are getting married events like this. It’s important for us to keep on Sunday! the show free so the show is open to What could be better? You follow your everyone, not only to those who can afford dream with someone you love, make people it. Of course, we depend on donations but smile and do it all in a clean, green way. don't seek public funding, we just want to Hey Fred-- it's just dawned on me that you spread a positive message through music, are what Normal should be. The rest of us performance and circus by interacting with are still working on it. local communities.

In October Fred and Nikoleta will be on How did you meet Nikoleta? their honeymoon but check their website for I was doing a show in Florence, Italy and more information: www.seaclown.com there was this cute Greek girl watching me American-born Sharla Ault lives near that somehow seemed familiar. I think I knew from that moment that we were going Venice and juggles jobs ranging from to be together. She really was in tune with marketing, travel writing and as a hotel what I was doing and she learned to be an inspector. She has contributed for Sunday Times, Condé Nast, Cadogan Guide and acrobat and was a natural clown as well, others. An adventure addict, she's tried great energy. She has been my partner in skydiving, scuba diving, caving and river life and craft for the past 10 years. rafting. She's also a licensed captain and After Cyclown, you created Sea Clown sails in Greece every summer. circus, can you tell us about that?

In 2004 Cyclown decided to go to Denmark and Germany for the summer and Nikoleta and I opted to stay in Greece. I had been dreaming of starting a sailing circus for years while pedalling across Europe, and Greece seemed like the perfect place to start. So we started looking for a sailboat to live on and to get around. After a long search we finally found the 9 meter Sourloulou and bought her cheap. We fixed her up, painted her in bright colors and developed a show that we perform on the

Sea Clown

6 The Ionian www.theionian.com October 2013

Photo: Sharla Ault

grey, wrinkled and dry as if disease or parasite had attacked it. I wish I could sit next to its trunk and listen to its wisdom, but it is walled off and cordoned off with no trespassing signs everywhere. However, I think I know what the tree is trying to tell me.

I leave the Temple of Dodoni with a headache, disillusioned, disenchanted, and disappointed.

Driving once again on the new super highway between Ioannina and Igoumenitsa, I realize that if I had lived

By Barbara Molin three thousands years ago, it would probably have taken me several years to make this pilgrimage, whereas with modern technology it only took an hour.

However, getting faster to where I don’t want to go does not appeal much, so as soon as possible, I turn off onto a secondary road where I can Ruins of the Temple of Zeus and the sick oak tree slow down to admire the scenery and take some photos.

And then, about twenty minutes into In 300 B.C., under King Pyrrhus, a my journey, I see what I came for - an theatre seating 17,000 was added and later enormous oak tree, reaching its huge eeding advice recently, I headed for a stadium for even a bigger circus. branches into the sky as in benediction.

Upon arrival at the sacred site, the first I stop the car on the side of the empty the Temple of the Oracle of Dodoni, some thing I hear, is the incessant road, walk up to the massive trunk, and 21 km. southwest of Ioannina. buzzing of brush trimmers. Could next to the tree I notice a spring or a Since about 2,000 B.C, the this be the oracle speaking, I watering hole surrounded by a small earth goddess had been wonder? I also see that the theatre ancient stone wall presumably to protect worshipped there at the base is being rebuilt, but notice the tree’s roots from soil erosion. Amazed of Mount Tomaros, and spoke gratefully, that the workers are by my find, I touch the oak’s rough bark, wisdom through the roots and only using hammers and chisels then sit silently among its roots next to the the leaves of an ancient oak just like three thousand years ago spring and listen to the earth goddess' tree, many centuries before the and not machines. The theatre, wisdom.

Delphic oracle took over that when finished, will hosts job in 600 B.C. I was hoping Ioannina's Festival of Ancient she could help me.

Drama.

However, around the 13th Trying to ignore century B.C, the earth goddess the mind numbing was demoted and instead, drone of the hedge Zeus spoke through the oak trimmers, I head and gave advice to the faithful.

Then the priests came and interpreted what for the temple of Zeus and the leaf rustling meant. The priests walled notice a small oak tree among the ruins. Sadly, it in the tree and built temples to Zeus and looks sick. Its leaves are other gods.

The Oracle of Dodoni

N

Below: Theatre of Dodoni undergoing renovations. Left: ancient tools in modern times. Above: brush cutter

Ancient wisdom: sacred oak tree with a spring near its roots.

October 2013 www.theionian.com The Ionian 7

Rod: Yes, melanoma. So I had an impetus to go sailing. I wanted to see the world before I die. I f you sail in the Mediterranean, wanted to see Europe. I now take a medication cocktail every you probably have heard the name morning.

Rod Heikell. If you don't sail, he is Barb: So do you think you'd be the author of the cruising guides that

By Barbara Molin sailing if it was not for your help guide voyagers over these illness? Your book touches on waters. Either way, you might be that - like your title says, you are happy to learn that Rod has just an accidental sailor. written a book about his early years Rod: Sailing is a balance between cruising, The Accidental Sailor. being frightened and elated.

I had an opportunity to meet Rod Lu: Sailing is one of the few and his wife Lu recently at a local things you can do that gives you taverna and ask them some freedom. As long as you don't questions. run out of water or cooking gas.

B: What would your advice be for (Laughing) people who want to do what you Rod: You can't even make a cup have been doing - cruising around of tea. the Mediterranean?.

Lu: And you carry a ridiculous Rod: Just to go and do it. People amount of spares and if not for worry too much about how big a yourself then you can help other boat they need to get and all the people. equipment on it and it's Barb: Is there a difference overwhelming. They think they need between cruisers and people who a 40-45 footer with all the toys on sail on charter boats?. board and lots of people sail on Rod: Charter people get a lot of simple boats. bad publicity but when you see a boat B: How big is your present boat, Skylax? have more choice between marinas, harbours, anchorages - there is something sailing you know it's likely going to be a Rod: Skylax is 46 foot. She is a good charter boat and when you see a boat passage maker but for the Mediterranean I for everyone. It's a nice balance. Lots of motoring, it's a private boat. The same variety. would go for a 38 - 40 foot boat. thing with anchoring - the private boats Lu: There are many things you don't need Rod. Whoever designed Greece had a dragged in that Vliho gale. very unsteady hand there are anchorages for the Mediterranena such as a B: Tell me you best running aground everywhere.

There are still parts of Greece watermaker, or a generator. that are relatively remote where very few story.

B: What about a fridge?

Rod: Which one? (Laughs) people go.

Rod: I sailed an old fashioned 31-foot Lu: We have an impediment because we B: Your favourite island in the Ionian? boat for donkey's years with no fridge in have a wing keel. So when you stick, you Rod: Probably Lefkas for nostalgic south east Asia. And I can still taste that really stick. We got to survey some first beer at the harbour. You don't get that reasons because we spend a lot of time anchorages by running aground. here. Also Kalamos for its beauty. if you have a fridge on board.

Rod: Trapani is one. And during the B: Any regrets?

Lou: On the previous boat we didn't have Ionian Rally near Kastos.

Rod: Letting go of my old boats is a hot water. We had a solar shower. It's easy Lou: We got some help to pull us off, we wrench after having them for many years. to get carried away and say, I must have were lucky. Happily she is a solid old girl.

But it was something that needed to be this and that.

Barb: So you will be racing in the Ionian Rod: When I had a small boat, when we done.

Rally again? arrived somewhere we could afford to stay Barb: Your favourite boat?

Rod: Oh yes. We won the line honours Rod: The next one. Boats have different in a small hotel for the first couple of days characteristics. I liked Seven Tenths - she last year. and have showers.

Barb: Wow, congratulations. Good luck could really heave-to during our B: What about a GPS? for this year. So how does it feel to be transatlantic crossing.

She was 36 feet Rod: GPS is good. But one of the skills famous? Your books are amazing help to that is being lost is looking at the land and long. Skylax on the other hand is a very many people cruising. I bet a copy of your good passage maker - very comfortable. knowing your position in relation to a guide to the Ionian is on every boat here.

Lu: At first she seemed big but she is paper chart. That's very important.

Rod: Well, we don't do fame but we're B: How has the Med changed since you very easy to sail. happy that people find the books useful.

Rod: Systems are much more started sailing here?

They sometimes write with comments complicated and she is too big for the Rod: Well, take Panos Taverna for about things that have changed for our Med. instance. It used to be a small cantina updates. You still have to keep your eyes Lu: We give each other boat parts for serving drinks and sweets, for the car ferry presents. For our wedding present we got open. passengers that is no longer here. There B: Well thank you; lovely to talk to you. an autopilot. were no boat yards then and when I was Rod: I got an anchor for my birthday, running charter boats, clients had to bring Photo of Skylax: Kevin Jones, mooring lines for Christmas. spare parts from the U.K. www.sailingpics.com B: You were ill when you first started Lu: In the balance, modern marinas, “The Accidental Sailor� is available from available services all are good and now we sailing.

Amazon both in print and Kindle editions.

I

Rod Heikell:

The Accidental Sailor

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FOSTER AND PERMANENT HOMES NEEDED URGENTLY FOR STRAY DOGS. PLEASE CALL LEFKAS ANIMAL WELFARE SOCIETY (L.A.W.S.) IF YOU CAN HELP: 697 851 0671.

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