The Irish Post Travel Guide 2015

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Go Ireland TRAVEL GUIDE 2015

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Discover 5,000 years of history on Ireland’s Ancient East

ROAD TRIP

Get into gear on the island’s most scenic coastal routes

THE PERFECT ROUND

Take a tour of the best Irish golf courses

Blarney Castle, Co. Cork


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CITY ESCAPE DUBLIN

A design for living As Ireland enjoys 2015 as the Year of Irish Design, Sharon Ní Chonchúir discovers who and what is making creative hearts beat faster

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Ten things to tick off the tourist list in the Irish capital this year Get your feet wet at the Dublin Port River Fest 1Docklands, May 30-June 1

The Dublin Port River Fest provides a wide range of activities on and around the River Liffey and alongside its historic old quays. Everything from kayaking sessions to visiting one of the tall ships moored alongside the quays. Music will also play a part, so expect the odd sea shanty alongside venerable Dublin ballads.

Take holiday reading to a whole new level with the Book of Kells 2 Trinity College Dublin

Quite simply one of the treasures of Christianity. This priceless illuminated manuscript, probably the work of Irish monks on the island of Iona, is housed in the Long Room of Trinity College. Amongst the top half dozen most valuable books in the world, it has also been labelled as “the world’s most beautiful book”. It would be hard to argue with that. Saddle up at the Discover Ireland Dublin Horse Show 3 RDS, August 5-9

The 142nd Dublin Horse Show takes place in August - one of Ireland’s biggest annual sporting and social events, attracting over 100,000. Just about every type of equestrian interest is catered for, with international competitors participating in numerous events from show-jumping to dressage. Wake up and smell the coffee on Grafton Street Bewley’s Café Even during the bleak times when the only non-alcoholic beverage available in Ireland was tea, Bewley’s was busy serving a delectable cup of that very exotic brew, coffee. The grand old dame of Dublin cafés was founded by the Quaker Bewley family in the early 20th century, and soon established itself as a hub of literary, cultural, artistic and social life in the city. Those who have partaken of a coffee and sticky bun here include James Joyce, Patrick Kavanagh, Samuel Beckett and Sean O’Casey. Today it’s still an atmospheric slice of old Dublin on Grafton Street.

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Re-Joyce at the Bloomsday Festival Citywide, June 9-16 Run by the James Joyce Centre, Dublin, the Bloomsday Festival — honouring the day when Leopold Bloom went walking through Dublin thus creating the literary masterpiece Ulysses – will feature talks, walks, theatrical

presentations and readings. Plus the odd gorgonzola sandwich and glass of claret at Davey Byrne’s pub, as well as essential visits to other hostelries. Pay your respects at the Garden of Remembrance 6 Parnell Square

Ireland’s Garden of Remembrance on Parnell Square pays tribute to “those who gave their lives in the cause of Irish freedom.” There’s a sculpture of the Children of Lir with the lines (in Irish): “O generations of freedom, remember us, the generations of vision.” The site will be an important centrepiece in the 1916 commemorations next year; but it is a moving, poignant place to visit at any time. Enjoy quality and quantity at the Chester Beatty Library 7 Dublin Castle

Ireland’s first honorary citizen, Chester Beatty insisted on “quality, quality - always the quality.” It’s a formula that has guaranteed that his library has one of the most significant collections in Europe. Boasting a dazzling collection of books, manuscripts, prints and objets d’art from round the world, the CBL’s collection of illuminated sacred manuscripts are a marvel to see.

People-watching at the Powerscourt Townhouse 8South William Street

With its heritage, class and great location just off Grafton Street, the fabulous Georgian palazzo of Powerscourt Townhouse has been converted into a galleried shopping and snacking extravaganza. Packed with shops where you can load up with some decent spoils, the centre also features cafes ideal for sitting back and people-watching to your heart’s content. Appreciate the arts at the Tiger Dublin Fringe Festival 9 Citywide, September 7-20

Ireland’s largest festival for the performing arts has over 750 performances in 30 venues as diverse as St Stephen’s Green to Mountjoy Prison — as well as pubs, clubs and concert halls. Modern dance, comedy, theatre, spectacle and visual arts are all featured throughout the festival.

Send a postcard home at the General 10 Post Office

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IN BLOOM: A visit wouldn’t be complete without taking in the Bloomsday Festival celebrating Leopold Bloom from Joyce’s Ulysses

O’Connell Street The gracious proportions of the historical General Post Office dominate the northern part of O’Connell Street just beyond the bridge. The GPO is one of the architectural gems of Dublin, but its historical significance is equally fascinating — this is where the Proclamation was read out at the beginning of the Easter Rising (you can still see bullet holes in the columns outside). As well as dealing with seismic events of 1916, the GPO also deals in the minutiae of Irish history — situated in one corner is the An Post Museum housing the exhibition Letters, Lives & Liberty. This small but fascinating museum examines the influence of the post office in Ireland.

HE NORDIC countries may be more immediately associated with excellence in design than Ireland is but this year, that may be about to change. 2015 is the Year of Irish Design and there are lots of events and activities taking place throughout the island that explore, promote and celebrate the creativity of Irish design and Irish designers. You can even view some of these from the comfort of your own home – profiles.ie features a series of short video interviews with individuals and groups working in art and design in Ireland. They talk about their past experiences, their current situation and where they hope to bring their work in future. You’ll get a great insight into the SEA WORTHY: Craig Higgins and his First Mate product state of Irish design at this moment in time just by listening to them. culinary encounters that promise to showcase Afterwards, you may feel inspired to travel to seasonal, wonderful and sometimes bizarre Ireland to see for yourself just what is foods. For example, the Culinary Counter on happening for the Year of Irish Design. June 6 aims to break down the barriers between If so, a good place to start is the ID2015 the kitchen and customers through the medium Design Hub in Dublin Castle. of a stimulating and theatrical tasting menu. Here you’ll find the Hidden Heroes exhibition, It may not be easy to know quite what that which runs until June 14. means but you can certainly expect it to be This focuses on 30 everyday items — from tea interesting! bags to zippers — telling about the history and There are events taking place nationwide as influence their design has had and continues to part of the Year of Irish Design. have to this day. There are even some events Later in the year, this will that are being brought on tour. be replaced by Liminal, the The Architectural Association of flagship exhibition of the Ireland is bringing its annual Year of Irish Design. exhibition of excellence of This runs from July 3 to contemporary Irish design on September 20 and explores tour from May to November. the work of Irish designers at There are lots of And the ID2015 Bus is bringing home and abroad and charts events and activities an eclectic mix of designers and the development of Irish designs to some of the smaller design from Eileen Gray right taking place that towns and villages of Ireland through to the Kilkenny celebrate the creativity from June to September. Design Workshop today. West Cork is holding an You’ll find plenty more at of Irish design exhibition based on the work of the Design Hub too. If it’s a six local craftspeople from June to August. Saturday, you may find a family design In Limerick, an exhibition called Productive workshop. Fragments that is being held in June will ask These include classes in making LED lamps, how the Georgian quarter of the city can be learning about 3D printing and how to make reinvigorated. your own battery-operated cooling fan from During that same month, an exhibition called scratch. Rural Architecture and Design will take place at If it’s lunchtime on Thursday, you may just the Dock Arts Centre in Leitrim. And back in catch a lunchtime talk. From 1.15pm to 1.45pm Limerick again on the first of July, a summer on every alternate Thursday for the rest of the pavilion will be constructed at the Hunt Museum. year, different designers will discuss ways of improving life through design. Bring your lunch. The tea will be provided, along with lots of food for thought! Speaking of food, what with the Irish food scene being so vibrant at the moment, it’s no From architecture to product design, movie wonder that food plays a part in the Year of magic to engineering Ireland’s next generation Irish Design. of designers are making a mark. Here’s three of Kilkenny’s National Craft Gallery is our ones to watch... presenting ‘Eating Experiences’, a series of

DISCOVER FRESH TALENT

BETTER BY DESIGN: Aileen Balfe and Eleanor McCaughey with their concrete planters

Aileen Balfe and Eleanor McCaughey, ail+el Combining fine art and interior design, childhood friends Aileen Balfe and Eleanor McCaughey have paired up to found Dublin-based ail+el. Producing a beautiful urban-inspired range of concrete homeware, art prints and textiles these DIT graduates currently sell their wares in stores across Dublin, Galway and Sligo. Among their collection you’ll find contemporary pieces such as concrete planters moulded from every day recycled materials and hand silk screen printed linen tea towels. Their skills complement perfectly — Eleanor has a degree in Fine Art and has exhibited in the National Portrait Gallery, while Aileen has furthered her degree in Interior & Furniture Design by studying textiles in Japan and Indonesia. Eleanor was also awarded the Conor Prize for a figurative work from the Royal Ulster Academy last year.


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MAK ING THEIR MARK : The Waterford Crystal name has long been a hallmark of q uality

To find out more visit www. irishdesign2 0 1 5 . com technology company Medtronic Galway, Craig’s floatation device opens out to allow those who’ve gone overboard to stay out of the freezing water, dramatically reducing body heat loss and giving greater visibility to potential rescuers.

Vincent Lam From working with the Galway Arts Festival to TV’s Vikings series Kildarebased Vincent Lam has been sculpting from a young age and now works on prosthetics and costume design. With an interest in mechanics and design, his ‘Exhibit 8’ alien model was made using dragon skin silicon on fibreglass. “I created this for my final year project in college,� said the 24-yearold graduate from the Institute of Art, Design & Technology in Dun TWO’S COMP ANY: V incent Lam with his ‘ Ex hibit 8 ’ alien model Laoghaire. “He’s an animatronic, suspended from medical equipment Craig Higgins which lights up and appears to be keeping him alive.� A graduate in Product Design and Technology Vincent’s goal now is to pursue a career in the from the University of Limerick, Craig Higgin’s movie business — no doubt spurred on by his love of First Mate project is a unique life safety science fiction. He is currently creating his next inflatable. Now working with leading medical monster for a short film.

venue glĂłr at 8pm Pipers Union in Concert Fri 22nd May r adm â‚Ź15 Celebrity Concert – A Tribute to SeĂĄn Ă“ SĂŠ Sat 23rd May r adm â‚Ź15 ‘Maestro’ – The Music of Bobby Casey Sun 24th May r adm â‚Ź5

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publication. This features 22 Irish craftspeople and designers who have achieved excellence in craftsmanship, design quality and technical skill. The breadth and variety of events taking place throughout the country for 2015’s Year of Irish Design is impressive.

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Its aim is to combine architecture, product design and digital fabrication to produce an innovative structure that will host a wide range of cultural activities for the rest of the summer. Later in July, Kilkenny’s National Craft Gallery will hold a Jewellery and Goldsmithing Graduate Exhibition, showcasing the work of this year’s graduates from the city’s Jewellery and Goldsmithing Skills and Design Course. Back in Dublin, those of you searching for something more interactive might find it at the Festival of Curiosity which runs from July 2326. This festival of science, arts, culture and technology is focussing on design this year with a number of showcases, salons and workshops. There are free family events during the day and curated events at night. For something more glitzy, the Little Museum of Dublin is hosting ‘Ireland on Film’, an exhibition of costumes from iconic Irish movies during August and September. Expect to see unique designs from films such as My Left Foot and Calvary. There’s plenty more happening in August. The Royal Dublin Society is holding its annual National Craft Awards at the RDS from August 5-9 . The very best examples of Irish craft will be on display here, with more than 8 0 different exhibits to see. And if you can travel to Northern Ireland, August is its annual craft month, when it celebrates the wealth of contemporary craft in the region. The focus stays away from Dublin in September. Waterford’s tradition of glassmaking will be explored in Refract, an exhibition of contemporary glass which runs in the city from September 10 to the end of November. We’ll be back in the capital in October when the A’ Design Awards Exhibition opens in the ID2015 Design Hub. This annual international design competition honours the best designers, architects, engineers and design studios worldwide and the works will be displayed until November. Waterford will tempt those with an interest in design back again in October with its Festival of Architecture. Running from October 2-4, the programme includes public talks, tours, exhibitions and demonstrations, all focussing on the architectural design and history of the town. Another high point of the design calendar in Ireland will be reached on the first of November. This marks the opening day of the Irish Design Awards exhibition. This showcases the winners and finalists of the annual Institute of Designers of Ireland Design Awards and there’s always a lot to inspire. Later that month, the attention will once again be outside of Dublin. Leitrim Design House Network will present The Essence of Design exhibition from November 5-28 . And in November and December, the National Craft Gallery in Kilkenny will host an exhibition of contemporary work from the Design and Crafts Council of Ireland’s Portfolio: Critical Selection 2015-2016

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Go Wild… HE WILD Atlantic Way is a 1,500-mile trail stretching from the Inishowen Peninsula, in Co. Donegal to Kinsale, Co. Cork. From Donegal to Cork the route passes great sea cliffs, winds its way through pastelpainted villages, and travels along roads that overlook misty islands that dot the snarling Atlantic shores. In Donegal, the route takes in Malin Head, the most northerly point on the Irish mainland. The Atlantic Way features discovery points along the way to help the traveller get the very best out of the area; Donegal’s discovery points include the coastline stretching from Dunfanaghy down to Killybegs, passing by the Aran Islands and the truly dramatic Slieve League Cliffs. Sligo Bay is every bit as spectacular, with dolphin and whale-spotting trips almost electing themselves as discovery points. Or you might want to stretch your legs by following the Streedagh Spanish Armada Walk. This fascinating slice of Irish (and Anglo-Spanish) history is vividly brought alive here — with stunning scenery as a dramatic backdrop. Mayo and Galway both have

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SIGHT TO BEHOLD: Stunning views await at the Cliffs of Moher

Over 1,500 miles of stunning coastal driving beckons on Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way beautiful rugged coastlines, craggy mountains and untamed moorlands. Galway city remains one of the most culturally aware centres in these islands, with art festivals, music recitals, local food festivals and traditional sessions aplenty. In Clare the Wild Atlantic Way threads its way along a coastline that has inspired songs, poetry and great art. Small wonder. The Cliffs of Moher and the Burren are both unique sites — the grandeur of the landscape here would awaken the muse in anyone. The Loop Head Drive is one of the highlights of the Wild

POETRY IN PICTURES: Ciarán McHugh’s picture To the Waters and the Wild

BASED in Carney, North Co. Sligo, Ciarán McHugh photographs the landscapes of the West of Ireland — and his latest exhibition has been inspired by W.B Yeats. Into the Twilight: The Landscape of W.B. Yeats was opened recently by British

IN FOCUS – Sligo photographer Ciarán McHugh Ambassador to Ireland Dominick Chilcott, who also announced Britain’s four national poets will be in Sligo in June to celebrate 150 years since the birth of Yeats.

SERVING THE IRISH COMMUNITY FOR OVER 50 YEARS

The collection, which contains a series of black and white panoramic images, will tour a number of locations over the year including a summer exhibit at Lissadell House. “The camera does not lie, anymore than poetry lies. And like poetry, the camera embellishes and enriches our experience of living in the world,” said Ambassador

Chilcott. “Good photography should be able to surprise us, most obviously by making us look at the world in a new way. This exhibition, through the skill of Ciaran McHugh’s work behind the lens, fuses together the man, his poetry and philosophy, and the place, Sligo, that was dearest to Yeats’ heart.” Ciarán added: “Living under bare Ben Bulben’s head puts you

right at the heart of all things Yeats. His presence is everywhere. As we go about our busy lives we can become detached from the enchanting beauty of our surroundings. Sometimes we need to reset and learn how to look again. I hope this collection of photographs

STOP OFF AND SEE

can in a small way help people refocus on the familiar landscapes we are immersed in and take a fresh look at the different interconnected worlds around us.”

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scenic harbours and fishing Atlantic Way. This narrow villages done out in pastel shades. peninsula at the mouth of the Mizen Head is the most Shannon affords fantastic views southerly part of the mainland of the ocean doing its huge of Ireland — basically where jacuzzi party trick. Europe comes to an abrupt end. Huge Atlantic rollers, with 3,000 Here the landscape gets more miles to pick up speed, smash rugged, and the Mild Atlantic into miles of sheer granite cliffs. Way segues back into the Wild A natural stopping off point is Atlantic Way. Loop Head Lighthouse. Steep cliffs mark the westerly One of Europe’s most limit of Munster rule and EU westerly lighthouses, from here writ, crags which are regularly you’ll get stupendous views of battered by belligerent storms. the Kerry Mountains in the far The (very necessary) South, the Aran Islands to the lighthouse can be reached by a North, and behind them the suspension bridge across a Twelve Bens of Connemara. rocky chasm. Look down if you Stand on your tiptoes and you dare! might see America. The route then winds its way The Ring of Kerry, an integral past Cork’s towns and villages, part of the Wild Atlantic Way, and finally into Kinsale, where was recently voted one of the top you’ll find some of Ireland’s scenic drives in the world by finest restaurants. National Geographic. The route The Wild Atlantic Way is circumnavigates 110 spectacular spectacular. You can travel it in miles (180km) around the either direction, do parts of it in Iveragh Peninsula. isolation or, much better, take a Further south, the Beara week or 10 days and discover Peninsula and the Lakes of — or rediscover — the charms of Killarney are a truly a gnarled and twisted coastline, awe-inspiring part of any journey. of villages and towns bursting The final leg of the route is with character, and ancient and through Cork. The landscape of thought-provoking landscapes. West Cork, where Europe slips serenely into the Atlantic, is mild, not so wild, and full of rolling For more information see hills and subtle green meadows. www.ireland.com Every headland is dotted with 49324 The g Irish Post Advert_Layout 1 27/04/2015 09:38 Page 1

Scenic Sligo Picture by Raymond Fogarty

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Hit the road

The Causeway Coastal route in Northern Ireland is one of the world’s greatest drives HE Causeway Coastal Route, one of the world’s most spectacular routes, clings perilously to a rocky coastline snaking from Co. Antrim to Co. Londonderry, before joining the Wild Atlantic Way in Donegal where you can continue the drive all the way to Cork and beyond. On the Causeway Coastal route the road winds through postcard-grade villages and glens with names that read like a poem: Cushendun, Cushendall, Glenballyeamon, Glenarm, Waterfoot. It passes under St. MacNisi’s School — high on Garron Point and through Glenarm huddling beneath giant cliffs. Impossibly picturesque seaside villages like Carnlough consist of small pastel-washed houses where neat little shops vie for space with ancient pubs. Just a dozen miles away across the Irish Sea is the Mull of Kintyre. This route along Northern Ireland’s north eastern

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seaboard — within living memory little more than a rough track bedded with basalt and chalk chips and pitted with potholes — is reckoned today to be in the same company as the San Bernardino Pass or the Monterey-Carmel coast road in California. Few places in Britain or the island of Ireland hold more interest for geologists than these 100 miles of coastline hugging the North Channel and Atlantic. At Fair Head, the north-east extremity of Northern Ireland, geology takes on a dizzying dimension with a 600ft plunge into the sea. The centerpiece of the route is the Giant’s Causeway, a spectacular rock formation that is today a UNESCO World Heritage Site. For centuries a geological wonder known only to kelp gatherers and sheep herders, it is an astonishing complex of octagonal basalt columns packed together.

STOP OFF AND SEE

The Giant’s Causeway is the star of millions of postcards, photographs, travel programmes, tall tales and books. But other parts of the Causeway Coastal Route are getting in on the act. The small, highly photogenic fishing harbour of Ballintoy lies at the end of a small narrow steep road down Knocksaughey Hill. The harbour and surrounding beach have been widely featured in Game of Thrones™, as have nearby Cushendun Caves — which acted the part of The Stormlands. Before the coming of the Game of Thrones™, this part of the country already had its fair share of magic and legend. St Patrick tended pigs here, on the slopes of Mount Slemish; before him the Wee Folk inhabited the nine Glens of Antrim. The Wee Folk, the banshees and the watershees all seem to have gone now, but the atmosphere as well as the landscape — remain ethereal and magic.

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SPECTACULAR: The Causeway Coastal Route

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Ballymena to Ballycastle — 44.9 miles/1 hour 29 minutes What you’ll see: Glenariff Forest Park, The Vanishing Lake, Ballypatrick Forest Park, The Dark Hedges, Old Church Tower

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Ballycastle to Portrush — 19 miles/38 minutes What you’ll see: Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, Giant’s Causeway, Old Bushmills Distillery, Dunluce Castle

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Portrush to Limavady — 19.6 miles/39 minutes What you’ll see: Coleraine Woods, Portstewart Strand, Mussenden Temple, Mountsandel Fort

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DRAMATIC: Dunluce Castle


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IN STEP: Highland Games at Glenarm Castle, Co. Antrim

NEW FOR 2015

Take the path less travelled on The Gobbins ISLANDMAGEE is not actually an island but a seven-mile long peninsula. But this tranquil, peaceful place has its very own atmosphere, a distinctive separate feel about it. It has not always been so quiet. For such a small place, Islandmagee comes packed with history. A witches’ trial in 1710 — the last such trial in Ireland — found eight local women guilty of witchcraft. They were condemned to one year’s imprisonment and ‘four times pillorying’. A proposed memorial to the eight women caused some controversy earlier this year. After all, it was only 300 years or so ago — the equivalent of last week round here. Ancient history features too. Islandmagee is the home of the Ballylumford Dolmen. Known locally as the Druid’s Altar, this dolmen is at least 4,000 years old; it may be the remains of an even earlier passage grave. The dolmen consists of four upright stones, with a heavy capstone and a fallen-stone within the structure. Today Islandmagee is a haven for walkers, ramblers and naturalists. The bird population includes kittiwakes, guillemots, fulmars, puffins, razorbills; even peregrine falcons and owls have been seen. Minke whales and common

seals are also regular visitors to the waters — and there will soon be several new vantage points to spot these sea-going celebrities. Victorian entrepreneurs realised the economic potential of their coastline, and Islandmagee was no exception. Railway magnate and Wexford man Dean Berkeley Wise constructed the most audacious cliff walk in these islands — nearly three miles of heart-stopping paths, bridges and tunnels along Islandmagee’s magnificent Gobbins Cliffs. Opened in 1902, The Gobbins Cliff Path was an immediate hit with tourists, and remained one of Northern Ireland’s most popular attractions up to the 1940s. Over the years the path fell into disrepair, but now it’s about to re-open in late June/early July. From 2011 until this year Larne Borough Council has been behind a £7.5million project to renovate

The Gobbins Path. A series of new bridges and galleries, hugging the side of the cliffs have been put in place. The new path includes a Tubular Bridge which offers very frank views of the crashing waves below. The project also includes a new cliff top path, from where you can see as far as Ailsa Craig in Scotland. Funded by EU and local bodies, this extraordinary cliff path will be open to the public this summer. But be warned — it’s not going to be for the faint-hearted. Visitors will scale narrow, winding steps cut into the basalt cliffs, venture along precipitous walkways, and brave slender metal bridges. Some of these are over 30 metres in length and give giddying views of the sea below.

Should you opt to take on this mission to The Gobbins, you’ll be given a safety briefing before departure. Access is to be strictly controlled, so there will never be more than 12 visitors at a time — who have booked the fully guided experience tour. By the way, legend has it that Gobbin Saor, a terrifying giant, once lived in these cliffs, and still occasionally pays a visit. So just mind how you go! For more on The Gobbins Path see www.ireland.com

SEASIDE STROLL: The Gobbins path, pictured above before its £7.5million renovation, will open this summer

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8 | May 9, 2015 The hills and valleys of this RELAND’S Ancient East ancient landscape have seen will promote the east and Neolithic farmers clear the land, south of Ireland as one rebel fugitives hiding in its region focusing on the culture, woods, and great armies massing music, landscape and history on its plains ready for combat. Its of a compact area that monasteries and friaries have stretches from the Boyne sheltered the monks who turned V alley to Cork’s Blarney Ireland into the very centre of Castle. Christianity while the rest of The route will be promoted Europe was beleaguered in the along four distinct themes that quagmire of the Dark Ages. define and shaped the history The and heritage of culture, the the area — music, and Ancient Ireland the heritage — the Dawn of of Ireland’s Civilisation, Ancient East Early Christian has been Ireland, The hills and valleys of shaped by Mediaeval centuries of Ireland and this ancient landscape thunderous Anglo Ireland. have seen Neolithic happenings. The initiative But today it’s aims to attract farmers clear the land, a tranquil, visitors who rebel fugitives hiding in peaceful want to come to place to visit, Ireland to its woods, and great with a real explore new sense of its landscapes, armies massing on its eventful past, history and plains ready for and happy to culture — or show its simply take time combat many gems out to connect to visitors. with local heritage and nature at their own Ancient Ireland pace. And there can be few places Ireland’s first settlers arrived on better equipped than an area that the north coast some 9,000 years takes in some of the oldest ago — most likely from Scotland. buildings in the world, some of Over the next few millennia they the most important Christian made their way through the settlements outside the Middle Island, living in what we might East, beautiful gardens and call Neolithic affluence — the estates, and ancient cities and woods and forests provided fuel, castles shelter and game. But at some point someone decided that the The Ancient East indolent life had to stop, and History both tumultuous and buildings had to be built. heroic lurks round every corner Accordingly, work began, and of the Ancient East. The area today you can still see the results stretches from Brú na Bóinne of those efforts. and the Boyne Valley in the north The best known, and one of the east, takes in the midlands via most striking examples of that Kilkenny’s Mediaeval Mile to Neolithic burst of energy, is Brú Waterford’s Viking Quarter and na Bóinne, or Newgrange in Co. on to Cork’s many attractions.

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MAJESTIC: Blarney Castle

ANCIENT WONDE To celebrate the launch of Ireland’s Ancient East Malcolm Rogers takes a tour of the island’s newest tourist trail Meath, one of the most important megalithic structures in Europe. The people of Brownshill some two miles east of Carlow town, likewise made an early start at stone construction. The Brownshill Dolmen, a megalithic portal tomb, could be as old as 6,000 years, The Brownshill crew were evidently very good at their project planning — the capstone weighs an estimated 100 metric tons, reputedly one of the heaviest in Europe. It’s an exceedingly impressive site. Loughcrew Cairns near Oldcastle, date back to about 3300 BC. Each cairn commands a superb 360-degree view over the bucolic landscape of Ireland’s midlands — proving that mankind has always enjoyed a good view. Or perhaps

wanted space to contemplate the we-know-not-what. Slieve na Callaigh (The Hag’s Hill) tomb, decorated with dramatic stone engravings, is locally believed to have been dropped from the apron of a hag as she flew over the mountain. Visit as evening draws its cloak over this strange, ancient landscape, and it seems entirely believable. You’ll still find plenty of locals who’ll give you the complete lowdown. At the very centre of Ireland, in Co. Meath, stands the Hill of Tara, the seat of the High Kings. Here St Patrick is said to have arrived at the very start of his mission. History clings to you like burrs here. Tara Hill is a gentle, quiet place, and although standing only 300 feet high, almost a quarter of Ireland can be seen from its summit.

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Heritage Ireland - see the sights

ER TASTE OF THE PAST: The shop at Kilkenny Castle

Irelan Ancien d’s tE new fo ast r

2015

NEOLITHIC: Newgrange, Co. Meath Early Christian Ireland The Neolithic farmers had a good run for their money, hanging around until about 2 000 BC when the Bronz e Age began. The first Celts, with their cultural bag of tricks, began taking over circa 5 00 BC, and Ireland’s historical odyssey continued. The Christians followed the Celts, and went about re-shaping the country with gusto. Today every county boasts monastic ruins — you can breathe the golden age of saints and scholars at early Christian sites such as St Kevin’s monastery in G lendalough, or by the broad sweep of the R iver Shannon at Clonmacnoise. Here, in these isolated communities, Christianity was kept alive, and subsequently re-introduced by missionaries back into a Europe ravaged by G oths, Visigoths and Vandals.

like Wicklow G aol. Opened in The remains of many 17 02 , the G aol dealt with people contemplative sites dot the sentenced under the Penal Laws. landscape, such as Mellifont Today, you can get some idea of Abbey in Co. Louth. The first the harsh rule imposed here – Cistercian establishment in actors play the roles of the Ireland, the monastery was various jailers and prisoners, founded by a handful of monks adding to the sense of drama. from Clairvaux who fancied this In the middle of the region part of Louth looked a lot like stands Kilkenny Castle — up their home in F rance. If you’re there with Edinburgh Castle or feeling overly contemplative you the Tower of London as one of can walk some two miles up a the great castles of the world. A quiet boreen to the great High 12 th century fortification Cross of Monasterboice. remodelled in Victorian times, Christianity thrived in the old grey building today Ireland, and in the Ancient East retains its magnificence. F rom several impressive cathedrals the castle, Kilkenny’s Mediaeval and monasteries stand as Mile testimony to underlines the Ireland’s extensive ecclesiastical history heritage. Holy hereabouts — Cross Abbey in the route Holycross, Co. winds along Tipperary, is a The remains of many narrow magnificently cobbled streets restored contemplative sites and alleyways Cistercian dot the landscape, past monastery; St mediaeval Canice’s in such as Mellifont buildings. Kilkenny dates Abbey in Co. Louth The back some 8 00 Vikings years, while at preceded the Normans, and J erpoint Abbey they’ve been held sway in Ireland East for a saying Mass since the 12 th couple of hundred years. In 914 century. the great Viking adventurer and pirate R agnall made his Mediaeval Ireland base in Waterford. Today The Middle Ages in Ireland were R agnall’s Tower — now known dominated by the arrival of the as R eginald’s Tower — still Normans. Previous visitors, such stands, and the distinct Viking as the Vikings, merely made a street plan, which survives nuisance of themselves; the until today, developed round it. Normans utterly transformed F urther west, at Blarney the landscape. Their influence Castle you’ll be given the was particularly strongly in the opportunity to maximiz e your east, where they built great eloquence by kissing the castles, not just as defence, but to Blarney Stone. It’s a long story underline their authority. F rom — almost by definition — as to the towers and turrets of the how the stone gained its R ock of Cashel, or from the remarkable powers. J ust be battlements of Trim Castle, the warned — to kiss the Blarney invaders kept a wary eye on the Stone be prepared to climb up restless natives; and if they some 8 5 feet of stone steps. didn’t like what you were up to Continued over you’d find yourself somewhere

Heritage Ireland offers access to over 70 of Ireland’s heritage sites, ranging from abbeys, castles, gaols and more. With guided tours on offer at all fee paying sites, Ireland gives visitors a unique heritage experience no matter where you visit. Dublin, the capital city, is home to some of the country’s finest architecture spanning two millennia - some of which are now used as museums, state apartments and residences. Boasting the largest public city park in Europe, Dublin also has many fine examples of civic TOURIST TIP: You parks and gardens and is home to the National Botanic can get free Gardens. admission to all feeThese elegant buildings compliment the more elaborate paying sites on the ecclesiastical setting of the Rock of Cashel in Co. Tipperary. first Wednesday of While the grandeur of each month Ireland’s parks and castles contrast with the remains of a 5,000 years old civilisation found at the Céide Fields in Co. Mayo or the spectacular prehistoric stone fort at Dún Aonghasa on Galway’s Aran Islands, both framed by the wild Atlantic Ocean. A diversity of landscapes can be enjoyed by nature lovers in the richness of Ireland’s natural heritage. Off the southern coast can be found a world famous island garden of rare beauty - Ilnacullin or Garinish Island. On the south east coast, the John F Kennedy Arboretum in Wexford has a plant collection of international standing, containing 4,500 varieties of trees and shrubs from all temperate regions of the world, while Emo Court in Co. Laois combines beautiful gardens and parkland with a Gandon designed neo-classical mansion. Towards the east, in December, the morning sun of the Winter Solstice awakens another unique world heritage site - Newgrange, Co Meath and lights the path of history to the seat of the ancient High Kings of Ireland at Tara. This region also contains a richness of architectural contrasts, The Neolithic tombs; Trim Castle - the largest Anglo Norman Castle in Ireland; Mellifont Abbey, the first Cistercian monastery in Ireland, or the wooded glens and ancient monastery of Glendalough which hosted US first lady Michelle Obama and her daughters in 2013. An annual Heritage Ireland visitor pass costs ¤25 or ¤60 for a family pass.

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10 | May 9, 2015

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Ireland’s Ancient East in 10 easy steps Waterford City is Ireland’s oldest centre of continuous urban settlement in Ireland and is consequently the island’s oldest city. Founded by the Vikings between 856 and 914, the city is over 1,000 years old.

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Muiredach’s Cross in Monasterboice. Co. Louth is Ireland’s most beautiful High Cross and West Muiredach’s Cross, and is the Cross tallest remaining Celtic High Cross in Ireland.

Newgrange in Co. Meath is the best known Newgrange Irish passage tomb and dates to approximately 3,200BC. It is the oldest known specifically orientated structure in the world.

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The Timahoe Round Tower in Co. Laois is one of Ireland’s most beautiful. It was built in the 1100s. Carvings of human heads, with flowing beards and moustaches, decorate the main entrance, about five metres from the ground.

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Trim Castle in Co. Meath is Ireland’s Largest Anglo-Norman Castle. It is also the place where the film Braveheart was shot.

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Loughcrew — located in Co. Meath — is possibly the oldest cemetery in the world and tells of Ireland’s Neolithic cultures.

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Trim Castle

Hook Head in Co. Wexford is Ireland’s earliest known lighthouse. It was first built in the 13th century, where it was maintained by local monks.

Clonmacnoise is home to Ireland’s oldest known bridge crossing the River Shannon in Co. Offaly. Underwater archaeology in the 1990’s revealed the remains of a great wooden bridge at least 120m in length dating from 804AD.

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9 Hook Lighthouse

Ballitore in Co. Kildare is the only planned and permanent Quaker settlement in Ireland.

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Continued from pages 8&9

Cavan

Anglo-Ireland The Anglo-Irish ascendancy, sometimes called the Raj in the Rain, have had more effect in the East of Ireland than in any other part of the Bl island. While imposing their rule, they ac kw at visibly changed the landscape. When they er felt it was safe to move out of their castles, they began building fortified tower houses BATTLE OF to keep out unwelcome guests — of which THE BOYNE there were many. The tower house eventually morphed into the Big House and TRIM accompanying demesne: models of fine CASTLE architecture without, gracious living BRÚ NA BÓINNE within. These estates were soon Trim developed to include groomed Navan Mullingar Boyne parkland and magnificent gardens. yne Valley Bo LOUGHCREW Powerscourt Estate in Co. CAIRNS Wicklow, at the foot of the Great Sugar Loaf Mountain, had great HILL OF strategic military importance T A R A Athlone in its early days. But the castle CLONM a ACNOISE DUBLIN sn Bro ey eventually became a mansion, Liff and the Anglo-Irish turned it CASTLETOWN into one of the great houses of HOUSE Europe. Dún Laoghaire Kildare Powerscourt is beautiful, Wicklow Mts dramatic, impressive — and any Newbridge other superlatives you care to Wicklow KEB NIN RE RDY G L E ND ALOUGH HOCM think of. But not many miles AESSTTLEEAD P O W ER SCOURT down the road, on the banks of Slieve Bloom RUSSBO UGH GARDENS RO Mts the Vartry River, lies another HOUSE botanical treasure. Mount Usher Russborough Gardens offers ever-changing scenes as the seasons steal through its bucolic acres. MOUNT U S H ER Carlow may be the second GARDENS Barrow smallest county in Ireland — but it H DO River Cruise UL NYBCRROODSYS EXP knows how to do flowers. Altamont AEBRBIEN Y CE Tipperary Gardens, near the village of Ballon, is WICKLOW Cavan

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GIVE US A WAVE: Taking a trip round the JFK Arboretum in Wexford. Pictured above: the Japanese Gardens in the grounds of Powerscourt in Co. Wicklow

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Locke’s Distillery in Kilbeggan, Co. Westmeath was licensed in 1757 and produced whiskey for over 200 years. Now open as a museum, it is the only sample left in Ireland of a typical small pot distillery.

Locke’s Distillery

the product of some 250 years of planning, planting, pruning, coppicing, shaping, hoeing and weeding. The end result is a fascinating collection of ornamental gardens and lakeside walks. President John F. Kennedy’s Irish family roots in Wexford are commemorated in a similarly impressive estate, although his family was far from being Anglo-Irish. The JFK Arboretum at New Ross contains over 500 different rhododendron and azaleas, an internationally important collection of over 4,000 different trees and shrubs, including the very beautiful as well as the very rare.

The Kennedy story was a familiar one in 19th century Ireland. Wexford was the embarkation point for thousands of Irish emigrants bent on a new life in the Americas. The Dunbrody Famine Ship, a reconstruction of a three-masted barque originally built in Quebec (1845) is now moored in New Ross. It was from here in 1848 Patrick Kennedy, a cooper, boarded a ship to escape famine-beleaguered Ireland. Within two generations the Kennedys had become one of the richest and most influential families in America.


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May 9, 2015 | 11

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Come away, oh human child, to the waters and the wild On the 150th anniversary of W.B. Yeats’ birth, SHARON NÍ CHONCHÚIR selects the best of the country-wide events celebrating the famous poet

INSPIRATION: Ben Bulben in Co. Sligo OME join Ireland as it celebrates the 150th anniversary of the birth of one of its greatest poets, the Nobel Prize-winning William Butler Yeats. The entire country is planning a party to mark the occasion. Events are being organised nationwide with a particular emphasis on Yeats’ hometown of Dublin and Sligo where he spent many happy and formative years. There’s so much happening that it’s hard to know where to start. That’s why we have compiled this list of highlights. Read on to discover how you can delve deeper into Yeats and his poetry in Ireland this year… You could start with a visit to the National Library in Dublin. Their Yeats’ exhibition offers a comprehensive overview of the man and his achievements. It’s based on the Yeats collection which consists of thousands of manuscripts written by or relating to him. You’ll see drafts of his most famous works, handwritten diaries and even such humdrum personal effects as his tax returns. For a chance to walk in the great man’s footsteps, you could book a place on one of the Abbey Theatre’s Backstage Tours. These take place from Wednesday to Saturday and offer an insight into what goes on behind the scenes at Ireland’s national theatre, which was founded by Yeats and his friends Lady Gregory and Edward Martyn. Yeats’ actual birthday takes place on June 13 and the main Dublin-based celebrations are taking place in Sandymount where Yeats was born. Everyone is invited to converge at the bust of Yeats on Sandymount Green for a free day of poetry, music and song. One of the most intriguing events taking place on that day is a talk about Yeats’ love for Maud Gonne. Anyone who studied Leaving Certificate English will remember just how passionate Yeats was about this revolutionary lady! Later on in the year, on September 1, a special concert in memory of Yeats will take place in the National Concert Hall. Organised by musician Thomas Bartlett in collaboration with poet Paul Muldoon, it will feature work by contemporary artists who have been invited to create new music in response to Yeats’ poetry. Expect to hear

The Tread Softly Festival is a two-week-long summer festival that runs in parallel with the summer school. This year’s programme features theatre and dance, spoken word, music and visual arts created or inspired by William and his brother Jack Butler Yeats. Back in Dublin and bringing the year of Yeats mania to an end, a special exhibition will be

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musicians from the worlds of contemporary composition, folk, rock and traditional music be inspired by Yeats. Although Yeats was born in Dublin, Sligo was his adopted home and the county is celebrating his milestone birthday with just as much gusto as the capital city. The Hamilton Gallery in Sligo is hosting a series of exhibitions by artists inspired by Yeats. Hargadon Bros, one of the town’s oldest pubs is holding a unique poetry reading event. At 1pm every day this year, members of the public are invited to read their favourite Yeats poem in the pub. If you’d like to lend your voice to the throng of readers, visit www.hargadons.com for more details. Sligo is pulling out all the stops on June 13. They’re celebrating Yeats’ birthday for three whole days, starting on June 12 with a special banquet and continuing with a packed programme of poetry, music, drama and art. To be honest, it doesn’t look like Sligo will stop celebrating until the year is out. Throughout the summer, Will and Jack’s Tent of Tales will travel the county bringing W.B. Yeats’ poetry to children. From June 21 to August 7, the Hawk’s Well Theatre will host a celebration of Yeats’ ties to Sligo with a show of music, verse and contemporary dance. And Sligo’s celebrated Blue Raincoat Theatre Company is also planning a summer festival of Yeats’ theatre. Highlights to look forward to include a performance of On Baile’s Strand on a beach in North Sligo and a performance of Purgatory on Benbulben Mountain. It’s not just Sligo and Dublin celebrating either. The rest of the country is joining in too. The Harp Festival of Moons takes Yeats’ fascination with the moon and the harp as inspiration for a series of Yeats-inspired musical

held at SO Fine Arts. Some of Ireland’s best known visual artists and writers have been asked to respond to a piece of Yeats’ poetry with an image or some written text. Among the participating artists are Hughie O’Donoghue, John Banville, Edna O’Brien, Colm Tóibín and Paul Muldoon so the contributions are bound to be intriguing. This exhibition will

run from November 26 to January 28, 2016. So, are you coming to Ireland this year? If you are, make sure you indulge your poetic nature by taking in one of the many inspiring events organised to mark the birthday of W.B. Yeats. To find out more go to www.ireland.com/yeats2015

events on the full moon of every month in 2015 at various locations throughout Ireland. Gorey, Co. Wexford will be the location for a Yeats seminar on June 11. And on June 18, the Town Hall Theatre in Galway will be the setting for a series of Yeats’ poems and songs performed by an orchestra of traditional Irish musicians. Finally, there are a few other events you should try to catch if you’re in Ireland in the coming months. The 56th Yeats International Summer School takes place in Sligo from July 26 to August 8. This annual fortnight of lectures, seminars, readings, poetry and drama workshops, exhibitions and field trips draws Yeats enthusiasts from all over the world and this year’s line-up includes luminaries such as Eavan Boland and Joseph O’Connor.

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12 | May 9, 2015

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Tourist spots for film fans Whether it’s Game of Thrones™ or The Fall that tickles your fancy, the stunning sights of Northern Ireland makes movie magic come to life. Here’s just three top locations to visit…

HAVE EWE HEARD?: The Dark Hedges is just one of the Game of Thrones locations to visit

The Dark Hedges, Co. Antrim THIS stunning avenue of beech trees was planted by the Stuart family in the 18th century. Now 200 years later it’s become one of the most photographed natural phenomena in Northern Ireland. You’ll spot the Dark Hedges in season 2 of Game of Thrones™ as the spectacular trees line the King’s Road as Ayra Stark makes her escape from King’s Landing. Filmed at the Titanic Studios on Belfast’s old Harland and Wolff quayside, and at picturesque Northern Irish locations, Game of Thrones™ has become an industry unto itself and boosted the local economy by an estimated £23million. Along with a quality line-up including Aidan Gillen, Sean Bean, Charles Dance and the exquisite Emilia Clarke, it includes a support cast that could populate a sizeable town.

STUNNING: The scenery in Northern Ireland has provided the backdrop to many films

The Mourne Mountains, Co. Down NI SCREEN has helped create a booming movie industry over the last 10 years. A far from exhaustive list includes Closing the Ring (2008), Hunger (2008), Good Vibrations (2012) and Road (2014) in cinema, the slick-and-sleazy cat-and-mouse crime drama The Fall for TV. “The screen industries have a role in rebranding Northern Ireland,” says Richard Williams, CEO of Northern Ireland Screen. Philomena, the true story of a mother’s search for her lost son starring Judy Dench and Steve Coogan (pictured above), was filmed in various locations across Co. Down including Bryansford, Killyleagh and Rostrevor. It also featured stunning shots of the rugged Mourne Mountains.

CITY CULTURE: Social and political history comes to life

Derry - Londonderry Before recent times it was implicitly understood that Northern Ireland drama had the Troubles as its single narrative theme. For decades dramas like Gerald Seymour’s Harry’s Game (1982) or Mike Leigh’s Four Days in July (1985), though creatively powerful, unavoidably gave a depressing impression. It’s long been believed that such depictions of turmoil discouraged industry and investment. So now it’s thought the reverse must also be true. Derry-Londonderry, as depicted in the 2012 film Jump (pictured above), offers tourists a chance to see some of the region’s many community street murals. Adorning gables and walls in housing estates they depict recent and past political and social history.

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The Irish Post

sail for Belfast It’s all hands on deck for Malcolm Rogers ahead of the city’s Tall Ships Race The Tall Ships Races 2015 July 2 - 5 Belfast Harbour and Titanic Quarter T’S fitting that Belfast, with its long maritime history, should be hosting the start of the Tall Ships Race. Ships from across the globe will anchor in Belfast Lough as part of the Lidl Belfast Titanic Maritime Festival. The craft will be berthed in and around Belfast Harbour and the Titanic Quarter area for the four days of the festival. Some of the ships will also be open to the public for a unique opportunity to explore and learn about life on board these giants of the sea. This is the third time that Belfast has hosted the races, having previously welcomed the ships in 1991 and 2009. Both previous visits were incredibly successful, and proved

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very popular; in 2009 around 800,000 spectators came to the four-day event, when a flotilla of 40 ships berthed along the city’s quays. This year’s event is expected to attract some 50 craft, and as many as a million spectators making it probably Belfast’s biggest event ever. The annual Tall Ships Race, run by Sail Training International (STI), a Britishbased charitable organisation, is specifically for sail training. The ‘tall ships’ which can be anything from large yachts to square-riggers — the only specification is size and propulsion by wind only. The races are held annually in European waters and consists of two racing legs of several hundred nautical miles. Over one half of the crew of each ship participating in the races must consist of young people.

Race Director Paul Bishop paid tribute to Belfast’s enthusiasm and expertise in hosting the event “We’re delighted to bring the Tall Ships Race fleet back to Belfast following our successful visits in 1991 and 2009,” he said. “Belfast has a great maritime heritage and is renowned as a ‘sail training friendly port’. The crews are guaranteed a terrific welcome before racing to Aalesund, Norway, in the first leg of The Tall Ships Races 2015.” After Aalesund, the ships will head for Kristiansand in Norway and then on to Aalborg in Denmark The Tall Ships race will be the centerpiece of the four day Maritime Festival, but activities will also include music, street theatre, water sports, tours, talks and fireworks.

Cyclists take in the scenery and take on the hills in the Gran Fondo Giro d’Italia Gran Fondo Giro d’Italia Northern Ireland The Strangford Route Sunday, June 21 THE Gran Fondo Giro d’Italia Northern Ireland, a mass participation event for amateur cyclists run by the organisers of the Giro d’Italia race, is a tangible lasting legacy of the 2014 Giro Big Start. This event saw the world’s greatest cyclists race along the roads of Ireland in the world’s second most famous cycle race. The Gran Fondo, which will take place along closed roads, will once again showcase the beautiful scenery of Northern Ireland — with its 58km Strangford route perfect for

beginners or novice cyclists. Leaving Titanic Belfast in the east of the city, the peloton will tackle Braniel Hill. A gradual climb will give beautiful views of the city and across Belfast Lough. The riders will then head south along rolling roads. The drumlin countryside eventually leads to Strangford Lough — the largest sea lough in these islands, and arguably one of the most beautiful. The implausibly picturesque lough is almost totally enclosed by the Ards Peninsula. The main body of the lough has at least seventy islands along with many islets, bays, coves, headlands and mudflats that riders will pass during the day.

They may keep their eyes open for some avian superstars — aquatic birds of almost every description gather here. The participants will then pass the old town of Comber before they start another climb, this time up Moneyreagh in North Down. Once having crested the final climb, the homeward journey begins. A gradual descent into Belfast city will give views of the famous Harland and Wolff cranes alongside the twinkle of the iconic Titanic Museum in the distance — signalling the end of the challenge.

There are two routes in this year’s Gran Fondo Giro d’Italia Northern Ire land – the Mourne Route — a 177km ride to challenge the fittes t and the Strangford Route, riders a 58km loop touching the shores of Strangford Lough. Both rou tes start and finish at the Titanic Belfast building.

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14 | May 9, 2015

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Fairways to heaven Ahead of this month’s Irish Open in Co. Down, Malcolm Rogers takes a tour around Ireland’s glorious golf courses

Time to play

OLFING and Ireland together have seldom had a higher profile in the public eye, partly due to the combined efforts of Rory McIlroy, Graeme McDowell, Darren Clarke and Padraig Harrington. But the golfing cognoscenti have always been aware that Ireland is a golfers’ paradise, with seaside links courses offering a unique brand of golf harking back to the game’s ancient roots. Ireland can lay claim to one third of all the genuine links courses in the world — they’re dotted like diamonds in an emerald necklace along the coast-line. Four courses — Royal County Down, Royal Portrush, Ballybunion and Portmarnock — are all ranked inside the world’s top 50. In recognition of Ireland’s high profile in international golf, The Irish Open (or the Dubai Duty Free Irish Open to give it its full name) will be taking place at Royal County Down from May 28-31. During the event the golf club will play host to some of the world’s greatest golfers, and almost all of them will have played at this links course before, at one stage or another. The 18 holes lie along Dundrum Bay, with the spectacular backdrop of the Mountains of Mourne. Every hole at Royal County Down is distinctive, from the par-five first, to the final 18th when you might have time to appreciate the full grandeur of the Mournes sweeping down to the Irish Sea. To play at Royal County Down championship course you’ll need a low handicap and a good swing. A round will cost up to £190 — you can add on a caddie for another £45. Oh, and you’ll need to be properly dressed. Shorts, jeans, track suits for men are all out, and for women don’t even think about short shorts, T-shirts without sleeves, or garments displaying logos. But not all golf clubs are as prescriptive or demanding. With more than 400 golf courses spread

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The Dubai Duty Free Irish Open 2015 Royal County Down May 28 – 31 FROM May 28-31 golf’s elite will descend on Co. Down with superstars such as Sergio Garcia, world number one Rory McIlroy, and Rickie Fowler taking to the greens at Royal County Down Golf Club. This is only the second time in the last 62 years that Northern Ireland has

throughout the island, there’s a course for every budget and ability. At the Aughnacloy Golf Club in Tyrone a round costs less than £12, while at the beautiful Courtown Golf Club in Gorey, Co. Wexford — with each fairway tree-lined and offering magnificent views — a round can cost as little as €25. The most famous parkland course in Ireland is undoubtedly the K Club, Straffan, Co. Kildare. Having once staged the Ryder Cup, this is a club to be reckoned with. Two courses boast flawless greens and meticulous course maintenance. Like the ‘Royal’ clubs up north, it’s not cheap — currently €240 per person per round. Mount Juliet in Thomastown, Co. Kilkenny, a manicured, Nicklaus-designed championship course, has been host to three Irish Opens. It is home to some fearful bunkers — a trademark of Nicklaus’s designs. If you’ve played any golf you’ll know the definition of a bunker — a place with just enough room for one angry golfer and his or her niblick. Never was it truer than here. Ballybunion is one of the very finest links courses in the world — usually rated within the top 10. Tom Watson, waxed lyrical about this Co. Kerry course. “Having played the Old Course many times since my first visit in

hosted the Irish Open, with Royal County Down last hosting the event in 1939. The first Irishman to win the competition was Fred Daly, in Portmarnock, Dublin in 1946. He carded a score of 288 to finish top. And it was to prove a stepping stone to his British Open win a year later. And no doubt the crowds this year will be cheering for another Irish win. Rory McIlroy’s charitable foundation, The Rory Foundation, is the tournament’s official host this year.

And it’s little wonder as the venue is particularly close to the world number one’s heart having been the location of his final appearance as an amateur in the 2007 Walker Cup. Set up in 2013, The Rory Foundation raises funds for children’s charities around the world. “Since making my debut in 2005, the Irish Open has always been a special tournament to me,” McIlroy said. “People have asked me why I am so excited about the Irish Open

WORLD NO. 1: Rory McIlroy, above Royal County Down

1981, I am now of the opinion it is one of the best and most beautiful tests of links golf anywhere in the world,” he said. The object of golf is, of course, to propel a small dimpled ball across several miles of grassland to end up into a four and one quarter inch hole with no more than 14 implements that are ill-suited to the purpose. Ballybunion certainly bears that out. Golf in Ireland can be a terrific social outing, it can be a wonderful way of spending a few hours in spectacular scenery — or it can be one of the most strenuous tests of sportsmanship, skill and resilience in the whole arena of sport. If you do take the sport seriously, they say that no matter how poor a round of golf you’re having, no matter how close to giving up you might be — you’ll hit one shot so gloriously that you’ll come back for more. In Ireland every county has a dozen or more courses of every standard — from Achill Island Golf Club overlooking the Atlantic (spoiler alert: it can sometimes be windy) to City of Derry Golf Club, where you can play a round for £18 and enjoy a meal and drink in the convivial clubhouse. Quite a few resorts such as Heritage Golf and Spa Resort, Killenard, Co. Laois or the Slieve Russell in Cavan offer exceptional all-in deals — accommodation, meals, rounds of golf, tuition etc. No matter what your budget or your ability, you’ll find a course that suits you in Ireland.

coming to Royal County Down. The answer is obvious, really. We have a great golf course that features regularly in world top 10 rankings and a fantastic tournament. “However, there is another reason for my excitement — it’s home,” he added. “I’m a Co. Down man born and bred so although the challenges of the Holywood course where I started out are very different to the classic test of links golf that is posed by Royal County Down, it still feels like home.

“I have played there often, from big competitions to casual rounds with friends, so it is a course and a location that means a lot to me. “I’ve played on many spectacular courses but there are few experiences in golf that match the feeling of standing on the 9th tee, looking out over the Mournes with the fairway 60ft below.” For more information on golf breaks visit www.ireland.com/golf

Picture: Getty Image 2014 — European Tour

Golf


The Irish Post

May 9, 2015 | 15

GO IRELAND

BEGUILING: Mount Stewart’s gardens were recently voted as one of the 10 best in the world

House rules Co. Down’s Mount Stewart has just been reopened following a three-year £7million restoration OUNT Stewart House, a long, two storey classical 1820s building standing on the western shores of Strangford Lough, is home to one of the treasures of the art world — the George Stubbs painting Hambletonian Rubbing Down. This is one of the crowning achievements of equine art, completed when Stubbs was 75. The presence of Stubbs’ iconic painting in Co. Down, however, is only one reason to visit this exquisite property. Originally the home of Lord Castlereagh, one of the dominant figures in late 18th century and early 19th century British and European history, Mount Stewart is today owned by the National Trust. The house, which ha s just re-opened after three years of refurbishment, has been restored to its former elegance and grandeur. New rooms have been opened to the public, and several new art treasures are on show, including internationally significant portraits, stunning silver collections and objets d’art.

M

The dining room looks out towards one of the most stunning features at Mount Stewart — the private chapel, with its stained glass windows, Italian paintings and decorations. As well as the lavishness of the buildings and the presence of one of art history’s iconic paintings, there’s another reason to visit this corner of Co. Down — its beguiling gardens. These are generally acknowledged as one of the great horticultural collections in western Europe, and were recently voted as one of the top 10 gardens in the world. There’s a strong Mediterranean feel to the formal parts of the garden, while the wooded areas support a range of plants from all corners of the world — ensuring something to see whatever the season. The sheltered habitat of Mount Stewart has the serendipity to enjoy a sub-tropical local micro-climate. It experiences temperate island conditions, with the Gulf Stream feeding into Strangford Lough and guaranteeing frost-free winters. The atmosphere is humid, and

Just some of what’s new… in warm weather heavy dews ensure that tropical and sub-tropical plants thrive. More than 100 eucalyptus trees, the most important genus at Mount Stewart, tower round manicured lawns, some topping out at 120 feet. Everywhere their resinous scent fills the air. The demesne is divided up into many themes — a romantic Italian garden runs the full length of the south side of the house, while the Spanish garden comes complete with oleanders, bougainvillea, jasmine and a

summer house decorated with azulejos — or Spanish blue tiles. One of the most beautiful buildings in the grounds is the octagonal Temple of the Winds, based on the building of the same name in Athens. Although the house has been around since the 18th century, the gardens were only designed in 1919. Designed by Lady

Londonderry, the enterprise required a small army of builders and gardeners. After a decade of clearing, planting, weeding, mowing, coppicing and hoeing, the gardens blended into the soft Co. Down landscape as if they’d always been there.

Drawing room: Thomas Lawrence family portraits Lord Londonderry’s Sitting Room: Picture of Lawrence of Castlereagh Stone Hall: The stone floor has been uncovered, conserved and polished Dining Room: New carpet woven to replicate the carpet at Wynyard House, with the Stewart dragon pattern Gun Room: New country house silver Florence and Naples: Two new bedrooms never seen before Mount Stewart, Portaferry Road, BT22 2AD is open daily, 11am to 5pm For more information see www.nationaltrust.org.uk/mount-stewart

Luxury Castle Escape A great opportunity for you to explore Donegal, play a round of golf, enjoy the great outdoors, attend a local festival or simply relax and unwind in beautiful and tranquil surroundings.

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Heritage Heritage Sites Sites Of Of Ireland Ireland Free Admission: First Wednesday Of Each Month During 2015

Many millions from Ireland and overseas visit our heritage sites every year. Guide/ranger services and interpretative displays are provided at many centres. For further information please contact: Visitor Services, O e o u or , e e e r re orr o Card re —. Tel: 0 OPW oHeritage Adult:Many €25 Senior: €20 Family €60: Child/Student €10 Many millions millions from from Ireland Ireland and and overseas overseas visit visit email: info@heritageireland.ie Offers unlimited admission to over 40 fee paying sites for one year. our our heritage heritage sites sites every every year. Guide/ranger Guide/ranger Email:heritagecard@opw.ie Tel: 00353 1 year. 6476592 services services and and interpretative interpretative displays displays areare provided provided at at many many centres. centres. ForFor further further www.heritageireland.ie information information please please contact: contact:

e er e r o u  (euro) or e or e  er o er u e o o o er o our ee e or o e e r e e o email: heritagecard@opw.ie Tel: 01 6476587 (Photos: e e Photographic er er Unit, eGeneral eDept. r r Informationoo u u  info@heritageireland.ie r , Heritage & e e Email: ) (euro) (euro)oror e eorTel: or 00353 e e 1 6476000   er er o oer eru u ee oo o find o oer erusoon oour our eeee facebook e e oror o oe ee er r e e e e


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