The J Mag V1 I10 by The J Mag

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The past Perfect A N T I Q U E

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Experience exploring the world of Jewellery a whole new way of

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THE J MAG

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EDITORIAL

What

are antiques? I would always say they are the best and the most beautiful way of treasuring your family heirloom with a tint love and emotions. I always had a thrill of finding something from my grandma’s attic. Every antique will have a story to tell and especially when it comes to jewellery, it will have a mix of emotional tales that will be passed on to the next generation with values. I have always felt that antique jewellery has far more soul vis a vis to any other jewellery. Its classic and exquisite designs make it a perennial favourite with wearers as well as for the spectators around the world. It’s precisely this sort of history that styles antique jewellery all the more captivating to wear. Antique jewels are beyond accessory, they hold historical values and traditions which in no time can turn into conversation starters and heirlooms that can serve to delight and enchant generations to come. The ‘Antique Special’ edition will be enthralling to read with history, and beautiful collections making its way.

Divya Vijayan C HI EF EDITOR

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CONTENTS AUG 2019

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COVER PAGE COURTESY: SILV

IN THIS IS

Content Par

The past Perfect A N T I Q U E

J E W E L L E R Y

Abaran-Timeles Bhima Jewellers, HRD Antwe Swarovski Ge

The past Perfect A N T I Q U E

J E W E L L E R Y

Rediscovering the beauty of the past

Forevermark launches its exclusive boutique store with Kirtilals

Crafting the treasures 4

The Magic of Antique Jewellery

Jewels of Antiquity 44

Antique cuts Diamonds

NAC Rewind C

VER CENTRRE, JAIPUR.

SSUE

CONTENTS

rtners

Ageless Charms

ss Jewellery, Forevermark, erp, PGI, emstones

Collection

Spectacular range of Original

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Be Limitless 22

The girl who made wearing your prayer cool

Apranje Jewellers and Forevermark present a diamond showcase 54

E-stores

Gallery Ethnix

Did you Know?

OFFE jewellery

Jewellery Offers 5

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FEATURE

Agel

char Timeless jewels run down in every family, passed on to generations and become heirlooms. Antique gold jewellery has been forwarded since time immemorial and shall remain as a way of passing blessings and memories. These jewelleries are designed intricately with motifs that illustrate nature like ďŹ&#x201A;owers and leaves encrusted with rubies, emeralds, pearls and diamonds. Representing the zenith of jewellery design, Abaran Timeless Jewellery has always been associated with exquisite craftsmanship that depicts tradition and is crafted to perfection. Designed by skilled artisans, this range of hand-crafted antique jewellery comprises of chokers, long and short necklaces, bangles and earrings. Available with us at affordable prices, these jewelleries are extremely appreciated for their elegant design, and excellent ďŹ nish. To stand out and just keep receiving compliments about the looks, all you need to do is adorn an antique jewellery piece and ďŹ&#x201A;aunt it! Shop this collection at our nearest store.

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By Abaran Timeless Jewellery

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FEATURE

The past A N T I Q U E

Sara Ali Khan in Tatva Collection, TBZ - The Original

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TBZ - The Original

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t Perfect

J E W E L L E R Y

Family jewels and heirlooms have customarily been passed down from one generation to another in the form of blessings and values. Believed too out-ofdate to be worn again, these jewels would either be transferred to the locker or put into the dungeon of the melting pot. These melted values are then turned into contemporary style jewels to reďŹ&#x201A;ect the fashion of the day. But these days, antique jewellery is seen as a time capsule of the bygone eras-a window into our heritage that, if broken up, would be lost forever.

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FEATURE

Gold and Pearl Jewellery: Pearls blend w jewellery and the little beads dangli jewel adds charm to the whole piece. B or a pendant, or a choker and bangle pearls, they have their classic prettine

FEATURE

well with antique ing around the Be it an earring es studded with ess in them.

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Most of us fail to understand the sentiments and values behind the jewel or an heirloom that’s has been passed on from generations. They are not just a piece of metal, in fact, they hold many features which express a tale of the beautiful journey: its exceptional expedition of the previous holders, the eminence of the craftsmanship and materials, some of which the earth won’t produce again. The creation reﬂects the appreciation of the workmanship and its rarity.

A jewel’s value can be measured by the status of the social history it reﬂects, its fewness and the anecdotes it can unfold. A jewel has the unexpected ability to bring a loved one back to life, occasionally even answering questions that have endured mysteries for generations. Today, heritage jewellery has become a source of inspiration for many from the wearer to the creators and designers. The pieces are proof that the demand from a judicious jewellery-buying public is growing and that the gratitude and appreciation of the reputation of heritage are reaching far and wide. Cultures that have vanished their wealth and royal patronage through revolts and wars are keen to retrieve their jewelled legacies. Further, people are looking for inspiration and uniqueness in their choice of jewellery, and jewels that are a fruitful union between the designer and the creator radiate a charm that will always remain timeless.

Though antique jewellery always its niche, but one can witness its gaining popularity. Most of us often get confused with the term ‘vintage’ and ‘antique’ thinking it is same. While vintage refers to the jewellery from the 1920s and later, whereas antique denotes to jewellery which is over centuries old. In early days the antique jewellery could only be inherited but today with the jewellers and designers are going to every extent to retain the antique glory with their creations. From classic brooches and diamond pins to signet rings and lockets, and kadas and chokers, these antique pieces are as much in trend today as they were at the time of their making. Classic polki and jadau styles, temple designs, mogul styles etc originally worn for weddings and most popular with royalty, are all back in style.

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FEATURE

To name a few, here are some of the trend in antique jewellery designs :

Kalyan Jewellers

Chokers: Chokers are in great demand and have become popular in South India too. are back in fashion. These days gold chokers have become popular too and it is a perfect match for a saree.

Antique Gold Indian Bangles: Bangles or kadas, are highly popular among Indians. Antique bangles will be always seen with intricate designs which makes it look classy. These are one of the best Indian antique gold jewellery.

Antique Chain:

Gold

Nose

Ring

A nose ring chain or natha is one of the most popular bridal wear. Though antique, these are mostly light and comfortable but gives a heavy look due to the three chains attached to it.

Antique Jhumka: A jhumkas are always special and never go outdated and a classic antique jhumkas steal the looks with its beautiful intricate designs enhance the looks.

Traditional Antique Peacock Pendant Peacock pendants are one of the prettiest gold jewellery antique designs with its rich colours and designs. A perfect pendant has a rich and heavy look. It can be attached to a gold chain and worn over traditional attire.

Gold

and

Pearl

Jewellery:

Pearls blend well with antique jewellery and the little beads dangling around the jewel adds charm to the whole piece. Be it an earring or a pendant, or a choker and bangles studded with pearls, they have their classic prettiness in them. So, what are you waiting for? Start tilling your grandmotherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jewellery box or begin your shopping to own these from our jewellery stores who have a plethora of beautifully carved antique collection just for you.

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FEATURE

ANTIQUE

JEWELLERY Spectacular Range of

Original

The brilliance of antique jewellery is bound to transport one to the days of yore. Precisely crafted by seasoned artisans, the antique jewellery is seen with an extensive range of unswerving designs. The elegance and stature of vintage designs give one a sense of accomplishment and noble inheritance. Every piece of antique jewellery is an expression of the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s aesthetic and cultural heritage. In the ancient daysâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; jewellery would signify status and jewels would speak out the area to which the adorner belonged, the social ranking and more. Jewels were created for special events like coronation ceremonies, solar and lunar eclipses, falling comets, changing seasons and even wars. Though the years have passed by with new inventions and technologies, the charm of antique jewellery stills remains. Antique jewels are in great demand because of their evergreen designs, intricate workmanship and elegance. Antique Indian jewellery can be well known by its distinguishing design, lustre and materials used. These can be typically categorized by the era to which they belong.

An exclusive knowledge series from Bhima

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INTERVIEW

Jew

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aliexpress.com

INTERVIEW

Jenny Rei is an international model from Dusseldorf, Germany who worked for magazines like Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Elle and was the face of brands like Dove, Chanel and Bvlgari, living between Mumbai, India and Los Angeles. She wrote and directed her theatre plays and received acting and music classes during and after ﬁnishing school. In 2010 she acted in a German Tv series and played a featured role in a German cinema movie. Jenny went to India for internships in local NGO’s and travelled all over Asia. The same year she worked in a human rights organization in Israel where MC2 Models signed her. In an exclusive interview, Jenny talks about her love of antique jewellery and especially big earrings.

wels of Antiquity It adds history

Ancient princess

Antique jewellery is beautiful, especially Indian jewellery since it has such a versatile and rich history to it. There’s so much heritage, tradition and craft in antique jewellery. Very often I wear western clothes but spice it up with antique jewellery cause I identify with India so much. I love Amrapali and Tribe by Amrapali.

It always makes me feel like a princess from ancient kingdoms. Antique jewellery represents centuries of tradition and heritage. I feel like you can experience a country and culture by wearing jewellery.

Trends rhinestonerosie.com

The most popular trends seen in antique jewellery are chokers and they look amazing with sarees and enhance style. Besides chokers, big, traditional jhumkas are also trending which are my favourites.

THE J MAG

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IN FOCUS

The girl who made wearing your prayer COOL

Wear your prayer collection by Pallavi Foley is on trend with its unique and spiritual design. The idea behind the collection is simple, that it gives hope to the wearer. The simplicity of the product makes the innovation so successful. The 22k pendants are the size of a garden black ant or the size of your nail, but have the full prayers written on them. These three-dimensional unique sculptures are a story of faith ad belief. In an exclusive interview with the J Mag, Pallavi Foley shares how she translated the idea in 19 different world prayers. Besides, how two very different inďŹ&#x201A;uences came together to form these prayer pendants, that have become very popular the offering at her stores and are also now retailing at Tanishq stores and their online portal, after the collaboration

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The

Design Story Pallavi Foley is a jewellery designer and an artist. Her work is radiant, feminine with a terrific flair yet intensely wearable. She has been bestowed with numerous Indian & International design awards. All her designs are enchanting and the meaning behind each piece she designs makes the designs inspiring, enthralling and revitalizing. Creativity is synonymous with Pallavi. Based out of Bangalore, Pallavi has been called a “game-changer” and is thought of as a pioneer of avant-garde jewellery in India. Pallavi’s work has been showcased at the India International Jewellery Week, the Milan Fashion Week, and the Lakme fashion week. Pallavi graduated as an accessory designer from the National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi, in 2000 and then worked for close to a decade with Tanishq, India’s largest jewellery company. She left to start Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels. Having over 17 years of experience in the ﬁne jewellery industry, Pallavi’s ability to think out of the box has led to several masterpieces.

‘Jewellery immortalizes our existence, as it gets passed down from one generation to the next. When I design, I choose to exaggerate the forms and gemstones, through hand-made jewellery making techniques, infusing it with fantasy, femininity and messages, that tell our story’.

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IN FOCUS

Creation of a

prayer pendants Reminiscing her treasured days, Pallavi says, The last time that I truly met my grandfather was when I was in college. I was twenty years old then. He passed away when I was thirty ﬁve, and I didn’t get much of an opportunity to spend quality time with him in the interim period. In retrospect, I feel that there was so much that I could have learnt from him. Somehow the ﬁniteness of life is apparent to us, only much later in our own lives and we start to value people much more when they are no longer with us. After school, I studied design at the National Institute of Fashion Technology, at New Delhi. It was a beautiful time in my life, and all I knew was that I was going after my dream. I had no fears and I felt truly connected with my inner self, as I was aligned with my dreams. My parents were not living in Delhi, and even though I lived inside the NIFT Delhi Campus, my grandfather, who was a doctor and ran his private practice in South Delhi, would take time off from his busy schedule to come and visit me every weekend and make up for all the lost time. (Since I only visited my grandparents during my summer vacations). We would often take our walks at Lodi gardens, a beautiful green patch in the middle of south Delhi. To explain it better to those who haven’t visited Delhi, it is like what Central Park is to New York. In the early 2000s, it was empty in the mornings and we would do yoga together, walk, talk and debate about old and new belief systems.

Mostly he would tell me stories from the Bhagawat Gita, stories about his life and the partition, about what it was to be a Hindu, how important it was to live a complete life and be sincere to one’s work and one’s community, recite the Gayatri mantra, the mahamritunjaya mantra and much more, (all of it as we walked). He took me the temple and taught me to pray. Through him, I learned the deeper meanings of all the Hindu chants and prayers. He was in his early 70’s and believed in hard work. Most people from that time from that part of India had gruesome stories to tell of the partition, but very strong survival instincts and the to-die-for disciplined Indian way of living.

IN FOCUS

For him being a doctor was a noble profession and he took great pride in his principles. Though he was a renowned and an extremely capable doctor, I often heard him tell his patients who would come back after getting cured and would be incessantly thanking him, that he felt that it was after all gods hand that was working through him to treat them.

positive aura Many years went by and in the 17 years of my design career as a jewellery designer and artist, I always designed jewels that revolved around nature, its beauty and colour, expressing it through art and creativity. I travelled the world, sketched what I loved, translated my experiences into jewels and designed collections with a sculptural tone. Innovation and three-dimensional jewellery were and has been my calling. Something changed, when a friend who came visiting, was going through a rough patch in her life. During our conversation, I could feel the pain that she was going through which led her into a deep depression. It was the divorce which was working on her. All I could do at that point was what every friend would have done, which was to hear her out and be there for her. She was heartbroken and needed to be strong from the inside.

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This incidence transported me back to the deeply spiritual conversations, that I had had with my grandfather, during our walks years back. Probably all the wisdom, which he filled me with, suddenly came to life. My brain was able to retrieve every bit of information, that had been collected in those precious moments. The importance of that wisdom in the conversations did not dawn upon me at 19 but now I could see how invaluable the religious, cultural and spiritual information that had been passed on to me. It was now time to put the two and two together, that the biggest healer is faith, which set me on a path to create something to alleviate one from oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s suffering and give a deep sense of support, that would help in connecting one back to oneself. He had told me that chanting the mantras, like the Gayatri and the Mahamritunjaya gave us a positive aura, and its sound vibrations had the power to heal and cure, and could enlighten us.

My heart went out for her and I wanted to see her, the happy soul that she once was.

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IN FOCUS

My ﬁrst thought was that I would teach my friend the holy mantras and tell her how my grandfather had believed in what Maharshi Dayananda Saraswati (founder of Arya Samaj), believed about the translation of the Gayatri mantra. (“Oh God! Thou art the Giver of Life, Remover of pain and sorrow, The Bestower of happiness. Oh! Creator of the Universe, May we receive thy supreme sindestroying light, May Thou guide our intellect in the right direction.” My design brief by now was crystal clear to me. It had to be an assimilation of faith, through the form of mantras. I chose an egg as a concept as it is symbolic of the beginning of life. The stage was set for the design to roll. I sketched that night and I finally arrived at a design, where the entire Gayatri mantra was engraved on a tiny gold egg.

So, I sketched the egg form with the prayer on it. Next day, I went back to my craftsmen and decided to try to make an egg with the entire prayer on it. The challenge was to make it tiny, like the size of an ant (10mm). I wanted only my friend to know what she was wearing and not the rest of the world. To the outside world, it was an egg-shaped gold charm pendant with a beautiful pattern and only if she wanted to, she could tell the world what was on it. Our ﬁrst piece was a struggle and we worked on several iterations. The challenge was that the craftsmen were Bengali and the script was Devnagri which was hard for them. It was like following a really difﬁcult pattern in a three-dimensional form.

Finally, after many failed attempts we got the perfect piece. I went to my friend’s place to gift her the prayer egg. She had moved into a new place by then. I wrote the mantra for her and shared the chant. Soon the word spread regarding the strengths and the healing effects of the mantras. Many more people had heard about how this jewel had given her deep strength, which led to innumerable friends and acquaintances from different faiths, asking me to create prayer eggs with their prayers they believed in.This was the moment when studying design made sense to me.

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A Tribute to

my Grandfather From the Parsi prayer, ‘The Ashem Vohu’, to the ‘Allah Mohammed’, the ‘Bismillah hir Rehman Nir Raheem’ dua, the ‘Mool matra’, the ‘Our Father’, the ‘Hail Mary’ and many more powerful prayers. 19 of them in all. I wanted all prayers to look the same, being a believer of unity in diversity. A cross-section of people are wearing the prayer eggs, from known celebrities to real life heroes and I get messages and calls to thank me and they tell me about their stories of recovery and their journey through faith and the power of the mantras which have led them to happiness. Many multinational companies have been wanting to collaborate with me on the same. Recently Tanishq has partnered with me on the design and concept front on the wear your prayer collection. This is a tribute to my grandfather who was teaching me this life hack, that we are all superheroes with the power of prayer. We all know and have heard that faith can move mountains, and I am privy to this daily.

(As a young girl, I spent a lot of time in Delhi with my maternal grandfather who would visit the temple and chant the Gayatri Mantra. He believed it gave him strength. This faith was enchanting to witness for me, as I grew up in a household that was deeply spiritual but not necessarily religious.

The germ of the idea of this design came when a good friend going through trying circumstances asked Pallavi to give her something she could wear that would bring her peace and strength. Bringing this strong influence together, of her late grandfather, she designed the prayer egg collection - drop pendants, or charms, in prayers of nineteen different faiths. But why an egg? “ Because life comes from it”, says Pallavi, it is her way of wishing well for people who wear them. Each egg has the script of the prayer on it, and customers have been delighted to wear them. What makes this story even more precious and humbling is that they don’t necessarily buy the prayer egg of their faith, they buy the prayer that most resonates with them. So much so, even the karigars who have worked on the pieces now wear a prayer egg also because they believe good things have happened since they began the production.

Collection: Wear your prayer | Designer: Pallavi Foley | Image courtesy: Tanishq

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IN FOCUS

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while back, a girl who is studying at Harvard, bought many es from this collection, for all her friends from different faiths. e was so happy that all of them looked the same, but had different prayers on them, with different scriptures.

ns always connect with emotions, grace and strength, Is design philosophy?

Your designs have a global appeal, is prayer collection paved its international way?

philosophy is simple, the jewels that I design should bring power and happiness to the wearer. I ﬁnd it impossible n an idea without researching the concept thoroughly. gn stories and innovative concepts emerge when you give me to study your topic.

Yes, ﬁngers crossed. We have keen interest from across the globe and you should be able to buy the wear your prayer collection at international airports, hopefully very soon. Wellness is one of the hottest consumer categories on the planet and this collection makes a wearer feel safe, positive with the power of a prayer, and thus we are seeing a huge interest in it, from international companies.

his association with Tanishq come about? please share What is so special about 3-dimensional designs?

n idea had big potential to appeal to the wide cross-section across the country, so I think it is a perfect collaboration, ugh this collaboration the prayer pendants would be able millions of people across our country. We started talking 2018 and in 2019 June it was launched. Even before oration with Tanishq, the wear your prayer collection was he lives positively of so many people across India. The ea is simple and powerful, with an underlying goodness products mission is to give hope to the wearer. It aims to a person, with the power of a prayer.

with Tanishq for a decade, and I started my career there as 22 years old, right after design school. After a long ng with the Tanishq team was nostalgic and a pleasure, since this collection was created at the factory in Hosur, lot to me. It took me down memory lane to of how I had et a diamond there in my initial days and the much love I om the entire team as a young designer. team of tanishq was fantastic to work with.

It is easy to write a prayer in 2D but in 3D on a curved surface, it’s a challenge. The ﬁrst time we made it, we did it all by hand. The prayers move with the forms. They start from 9mm, that’s very tiny to have the full prayer in the traditional scripts engraved on it. There is a collection for men and women. We have sold thousands of pieces across the country and as we speak more and more people own it and get strength from it.

What are some reactions from customers? People come up and thank me for creating it. Young Indians studying abroad love to wear them. They feel that it is so lovely to ‘Wear Your Prayer Collection’, as it does not shout out your religion, and is a beautiful piece of art and it gives you strength, as you have your prayer with you and on you all the time. People love that all the pieces look the same. The concept of unity in diversity is close to my heart and I am glad I could bring that out through my designs. I hear customers tell me that the wear your prayer collection is a great conversation starter. “I am glad that I have made wearing your prayer cool,” Pallavi concludes with a pride.

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SPECIAL REPORT

BE LIMITL 26

SPECIAL REPORT

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Forevermark India hosted the eighth edition of the Forevermark Forum in Bengaluru Over the past eight years, Forevermark, the diamond brand from the De Beers Group, has spearheaded an all-encompassing platform, the Forevermark Forum, for all their authorised jewellers, diamantaires and manufacturers from around the world. The goal of the Forum is to bring its partners together to interact, network and exchange insights on Forevermark’s growth and vision for the industry, within a global framework. This year’s Forum, held from 9th to 11th July, 2019, celebrated a new theme: ‘Be Limitless’. Key discussions revolved around diversity in thought, culture, design and innovation. Forevermark, known for the most beautiful, rare and responsibly sourced diamonds, took spectators through an insightful journey of exclusive showcases, comprehensive consumer and retail awareness campaigns, technology breakthroughs for the industry along with expert talks by new visionaries.

ESS

Using interactive displays and retail innovations, Forevermark displayed all its programs for consumers and retailers.

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SPECIAL REPORT

Speaking on the occasion, Stephen Lussier, Chairman, Forevermark, said, “As technology, artistry and innovation change rapidly, our perennial goal at Forevermark has been to develop the present, and adapt to the future. Given our De Beers heritage and legacy, this year we embrace the unconventional path, and explore different avenues to being limitless, at the Forum. Our partners will witness unique retail innovations that will enable and empower them to work with the leaders of the industry.”

The key highlights showcased at the Forum were: Diamond Acquisition Study: Forevermark conducted an extensive nationwide research on the purchasing and consumption habits of people in purchasing diamond jewellery. Over 16,000 people across tier 1, 2, 3 and 4 cities/ towns were interviewed about their purchases, revealing data about demand patterns, emerging markets, and milestone occasions for purchase, seasonality and general outlook. This comprehensive study was shared at the forum.

Credential Campaign 2.0: The ﬁrst Forevermark Credential campaign showcased to consumers, the beneﬁt of buying a Forevermark diamond. The campaign was a roaring success as it addressed all the concerns of a potential buyer and creating brand awareness

SPECIAL REPORT

by highlighting the differentiating factors of Forevermark. This not only increased trust and loyalty for the brand in the minds of our audience, but also reinforced consumer conﬁdence. With the overwhelming, emotional response the campaign garnered, Forevermark is set to roll-out credentials 2.0- Forevermark’s largest campaign yet.

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Trends 2019 Forevermark displayed over 2000 designs with four key moods: enigma, on the wave, culture fusion and one of a kind. The prime goal of the Trends collection is to stay abreast of future design styles. Enigma, tells a compelling story about craftsmanship with complex symmetries and labyrinthine constructions. On the Wave embodies all that is remarkable about our planet’s aquatic habits and encapsulates the De Beers Group’s ongoing commitment towards conservation of nature. Culture Fusion pays tribute to the present and the future, with modern yet timeless jewellery that celebrates the adventurous human spirit. One of a kind reframes the traditional deﬁnition of femininity with striking forms and directional silhouettes representing the strength of a modern woman.

Sachin Jain, President, Forevermark India, added, “Over the years, the Forevermark Forum has pushed the limits and become a key event for us to strengthen our partnerships and expand our horizons. Inspiring individuals from multiple backgrounds to nurture fresh perspectives, the Forum has remained a key event for leading the diamond industry to new heights. It gives us the opportunity to work closely with our partners and grow our business multifold. When we work together, the future is limitless.”

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SPECIAL REPORT

A nuanced understanding of trends supports the creation of investment pieces that are a mix of classic elegance with contemporary appeal.

Consumer Collections The Forevermark Bridal Collection: This collection honours all the moments that make a relationship unique. With a selection of classic, timeless rings that enhance the brilliance and beauty of a Forevermark diamond, the collection is available in a range of diamond shapes, each individually selected for their beauty.

heritage, the Forevermark Traditional Setting collection features close setting diamond jewellery in yellow and rose gold. This line of diamond jewellery is traditional, yet modern, appealing to young, contemporary women.

Retail Programmes The Black Label: An exquisite collection of diamonds cut with supreme symmetry and unprecedented accuracy to reflect dazzling light. Available in five shapes, the precision in cutting the gemstone and maintaining this flawless symmetry makes Forevermark Black Label diamonds sparkle like no other. 100 Carat Collection: This basket of 100 rare, one-carat plus Forevermark diamonds is an enduring testament to flawless craftsmanship and beauty that goes beyond the 4cs. This spectacular showcase is on display for three entire weeks at selected Forevermark authorised jewellers.

Half Carat: The Forevermark Half Carat programme targets the urban woman, set out to achieve her dreams and ambitions. Consumer research proved that half carat isn’t just ideal for everyday and regular use, but remains versatile in terms of affordability, design and emotional value. Tribute: The Forevermark Tribute™ Collection is an assortment of 22 rings featuring multiple Forevermark diamonds in different shapes, set in either white, yellow or rose gold. A statement of individuality, the multi-diamond designs reﬂect the wearer’s own distinctive qualities, whilst each one of the Forevermark inscribed diamonds included in every piece is unique. Traditional Setting: Inspired by South India’s rich

Exceptionals: A selection of the most exquisite diamonds in the world above 3 carats, this collection comprises of the few diamonds that carry the Forevermark promise. These diamonds are all about Nature’s precious story that took billions of years in the making. Red Carpet: Everyone wants to see Hollywood icons at their dazzling best at big-ticket events such as the Academy Awards, Golden Globes and the BAFTAs. Each year, Forevermark strives to showcase some of India’s ﬁnest craftsmanship and talent on an international platform, as celebrities adorn pieces from the collections. The exquisite 2019 collection was displayed at the Forum.

SPECIAL REPORT

Circle of Trust: A radiant collection of diamond bangles – symbolising love and timelessness. Each diamond set in the bangle of this collection carries the Forevermark promise, with a unique inscription number and identiﬁcation card bearing the assurance of it being rare and responsibly sourced.

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steel, this exquisite art installation highlights the beauty of a Forevermark diamond. When a single laser light is passed through the brilliantly cut diamond, it refracts in a multitude of colors. Social Café: As Forevermark integrated the social world into retail, with the ‘Social Café – an interactive kiosk demonstrated the physicality of a hashtag.

Designer Campaigns Artemis II: Women, like nature, have always withstood the test of time with grace, beauty and elegance. Like a true commitment, they prevail with every challenge, with unmatched calibre of strength, courage and determination. This unique character of the female species inspired the evolution of Artemis by Bibhu Mohapatra into its next incarnation. Each piece represents a beautiful quality, a characteristic, a trait — encapsulating the true essence of a woman. The Zanyah™ collection: Forevermark collaborated with India’s most famous couturier, Sabyasachi Mukherjee, for an exclusive collection inspired by the romantic Twenties and the Italian renaissance. True to its name, Zanyah™ meaning unique, is a collection of delicate, enamelled long-drop earrings and vintage-style rings for both men and women, with hand-selected Forevermark diamonds. Other elements present at the Forum included: The Diamond Prism: Crafted with glass and

Gamification in Retail: Gaming is a huge trend among millennials to keep them involved and engaged in the product. Over the years, brands have consciously introduced gamification within their retail experience. Forevermark brought three interactive games to the Forum, to demonstrate the unique integration between jewellery and gaming. Mind Reader: The science of retail has advanced significantly to involve multiple senses. Today, with special headgear, customers’ brain waves can be mapped to understand their preferences while shopping. Forevermark displayed this revolutionary innovation for the diamond industry. Tribute Kiosk: The consumer’s needs for versatility and involvement (designing their own look) led to the creation of this kiosk that allows a consumer to create a virtual ring stack – and even place an order for it. The 2019 Forevermark Forum was attended by key industry influencers, retail chain owners and independent jewellers from the industry.

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ANTIQUE JEWELLERY R E D I S C OV E R I N G T H E B E AU T Y O F T H E PA S T

RECREATING THE BEAUTY OF THE PAST WITH SWAROVSKIÂŽ ZIRCONIA It is no coincidence that antique jewelry is currently enjoying a revival, and perhaps it is because we are now rejecting our throwaway culture in favor of something more enduring. Antique jewelry is prized for its beauty, craftsmanship, and the quality of the stones, and if these pieces bear little signs of wear, it just adds to their charm because they tell stories. It was crafted in precious metals like gold, silver, and platinum, but also using more humble material like copper, iron, and

Diyara by GRT

aluminum. The antique jewelry that came from the rich was often set with dazzling precious stones, enhanced by ďŹ&#x201A;ashes of color from semi-precious topaz, tourmaline, and aquamarine. This jewelry was created and worn to indicate social standing, to mark personal occasions like weddings, or the birth of a child, special events like a coronation, a solar or lunar eclipse, or even wars. It was often rich in symbols of passion and power, especially the power of a ruler or a religious institution. Commissions of this nature naturally played a role in its style or design. Jewelry and gems were also thought to hold mystical powers and were crafted to emphasize these supernatural aspects. Bhindi Manufacturers

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Jewel One

Mirana by Senco

Antique Indian Jewelry in all its fascinating forms draws on tradition, cultural and folkloric aspects, and in keeping with our current desire for more meaning in our lives, these pieces are much desired to wear with traditional Saris, Salwaar Kameez, Ghagra Cholis, and Dhoti Kurtas. But we are now also seeing the antique necklace or bangle teamed with either modern or western fashion, adding a hint of a fascinating story that might belong to the wearer.

is likely to be the romantic antique jewelry of tomorrow. It is also true that the passion for creating pieces of lasting beauty stays the same. Instead of semi-precious stones or corals, today’s designers can choose sophisticated created stones from the Swarovski® Zirconia assortment. Modern technology and advancements in skilled craftsmanship now make these stones more than equal to their semi-precious equivalents in terms of cut and color saturation. Clearly, they are now destined to attract the attention of enthusiastic collectors in years to come.

Diosa Jewels

Generation Y buyers are also attracted to Victorian brooches, bracelets, necklaces and hair ornaments adorned with rubies, corals, garnets, emeralds & sapphires. Through the ages, many things change, but some stay the same. And while we love the revival of antique jewelry, especially those pieces enlivened by the color of semiprecious stones, today we are seeing the creation of what

Insights by Swarovski The Swarovski Seal of Quality The Swarovski seal of quality is an independent endorsement standing for Swarovski’s enduring commitment to the highest standards of excellence since 1895. The use of the special ‘Zirconia from Swarovski’ seal is a strong symbol of identiﬁcation for the products of Swarovski Partners, providing assurance that you are buying only the ﬁnest zirconia quality. All the jewelry showcased in this article are crafted with Swarovski Zirconia.

SWAROVSKI ZIRCONIA SWAROVSKI GEMSTONES SWAROVSKI GEM VISIONS

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FOREVERMARK LAUNCHES ITS EXCLUSIVE BOUTIQUE STORE WITH KIRTILALS IN HYDERABAD and launch their ﬁrst boutique store with us here in Hyderabad. Over the past few years, the retail industry has evolved multi-fold. With the Forevermark Boutique, we aim to provide a contemporary retail experience to reﬂect the needs of the modern Indian woman, showcasing some of the best collections the brand has to offer.” Stephen Lussier, Chairman, Forevermark said, “After two successful boutique stores in India, we are pleased to partner with Kirtilals Jewellers, who are not only the leaders in the South Indian Diamond Jewellery industry, but also set the standards for excellence in

Gracing the occasion was the talented actor Rashi Khanna. Adorned with beautiful Forevermark Jewellery, she said, “It is truly a privilege to be a part of this hallmark occasion as Forevermark and Kirtilals launch their first exclusive boutique store in Hyderabad. A diamond is forever is an eternal promise by Forevermark. Knowing that less than 1% of the world’s diamonds are eligible to become Forevermark diamonds makes me feel extra special to wear this beautiful piece of jewellery today.” Forevermark, the diamond brand from the De Beers Group, opens its exclusive boutique in Hyderabad for the first time ever. Housed at Forum Sujana Mall in Hyderabad, The Forevermark Boutique is the first such store in the city, which will exclusively carry Forevermark diamonds in a wide variety of elegant jewellery and loose diamonds. Highlighting the partnership, Suraj Shantakumar, Director – Business Strategy, Kirtilals said, “It is an honour to be associated with a brand like Forevermark

ﬁne jewellery and craftsmanship. This association is a milestone for Forevermark globally.” The store houses all the exquisite Forevermark collections including the Half Carat Collection, Tribute Collection, Capricci Collection, Zanyah, Circle of Trust, Millemoi Collection, Twogether Collection and Traditional Setting Collection. Visit the store at Unit No.06A, Upper Ground Floor, Kukatpally, Hyderabad or Call at 040 30534111 for further details.

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APRANJE JEWELLERS AND FOREVERMARK PRESENT A DIAMOND SHOWCASE Filmstar Haripriya launched the event This season, Forevermark, the diamond brand from the De Beers Group showcased a sparkling collection of diamond solitaires at the Apranje Jewellers’ store in the city. The launch was graced by the talented ﬁlmstar, Haripriya. Talking about the solitaire show, Ambika Narayan, Director, Apranje Jewellers, said, “We, at Apranje Jewellers, are delighted to showcase Forevermark’s unique diamond solitaires at our store. It is important to know where your diamond comes from and Forevermark’s Diamond Grading Card is proof that the diamond you wear, is ethically and responsibly sourced. Through our continuous dedication in creating exquisite jewellery pieces, we promise to provide the best of diamond jewellery for our customers. Our partnership with Forevermark is a testament to our trust and credibility that we maintain with our customers.”

Speaking on the occasion, Sachin Jain, President, Forevermark India said, “Forevermark is proud to showcase its unique collection of diamond solitaires at Apranje Jewellers, one of the brand’s most valued partners. Our solitaires are simple, elegant, classic, and come in various shapes and sizes. Each of our diamonds go through a stringent selection and grading process and knowing the standards of excellence in ﬁne jewellery and craftsmanship that Apranje Jewellers promises, our customers in Bangalore can take home a brilliant assortment of diamond solitaires set with rare Forevermark diamonds for themselves and their loved ones.”

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Crafting the

treasures Everyone loves the richness antique jewellery brings to every look. Jewellery is set in 92.5 silver, with an antique look to certain outstanding jewellery pieces. Ratan Jewellers talks about millennialâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s love wearing antique jewellery as it brings back the old world charm to young and trendy outďŹ ts. Antique jewellery is becoming quite a trend because of its time-worn looks. Setting gemstones in 92.5 silver, coupled with a rusty look lends each piece of jewellery at Ratan Jewellers a distinctive design.

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Sentiments

Antique jewellery are heirlooms that are passed on from one generation to another. It is a sense of style that is carried forward with every generation. However, given the technology and technical know-how at Ratan Jewellers, we do create 92.5 silver jewellery pieces with a rustic look. These pieces have more soul as jewellery pieces. Antique jewellery is a perennial favourite amongst the millennials. In case you haven’t any heirlooms, it’s never too late to invest in a piece of 92.5 silver antique jewellery.

Uniqueness

Antique jewellery is made in traditional styles. We at Ratan Jewellers set it in silver, to make it affordable and easy to wear. Rustic charm, unique designs coupled with charismatic craftsmanship – antique silver jewellery is surely an excellent investment.

Caring For Antique Jewellery

To retain the rustic charm of silver antique jewellery, it’s essential to store it correctly. Silver is a soft metal, hence rough handling or scrubbing the piece of jewellery will lead to instantly damaging the product. It is important to store silver jewellery in a dry condition, place them in a fabric lined box wrapped in a soft tissue. Do not store it with other jewels to avoid tangling and damage.

By Roshni Chandiramani

Prince Jewellery

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THE

MAGIC OF ANTIQUE JEWELLERY The story of Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fascination with jewellery begins 5,000 years ago in the Indus Valley. Spanning a legacy of 5,000 years, the jewellery of India is a striking expression of the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s aesthetic and cultural history. The small number of jewels that have survived from different periods and different parts of the country, references in literature, texts on gemology, myths, legends and chronicles provide evidence of a tradition without parallel in the world. for Indian women, jewellery was, and is, in many parts considered a social and economic security, the value of which will almost always appreciate, never depreciate. For more than 2,000 years, India was the sole supplier of gemstones to the world. Golconda diamonds, sapphires from Kashmir and pearls from the Gulf of Mannar were coveted and drew merchants across land and sea to India. For the rulers, jewels were a statement of power, prosperity and prestige. But for Indian women, jewellery was, and is, in many parts considered a social and economic security, the value of which will almost always appreciate, never depreciate.

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The necklace, dating back nearly 5,000 years, is lined with pendants of banded agate and jade beads suspended by a thick gold wire that passes through a perfectly drilled hole in each bead.

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Despite the relative simplicity of these early pieces, Indian jewellery was about to become much more complex in its style and workmanship. In the 2,000 years after the decline of Mohenjodaro, the Indian craftsman had polished his skills immensely. So there’s delicate ﬁligree work on gold, embossing work and detailed micro-granulations on the pendants of a pair of large earrings that date back to this period. The sculptures at Bharhut, Sanchi and Amaravati and the paintings at Ajanta depict a wide range of jewellery worn by man and woman, by king and commoner.While Silappadikaram, an ancient Tamil classic of the Sangam era, talks of a society dealing in gold, pearls and precious stones, the chronicles of Paes, a Portuguese traveller, describes the dazzling jewellery worn by the people of the Vijayanagar empire.

At that time, India was the largest manufacturer and exporter of beads to the world. India was also home to the diamond and invented the diamond drill, which was then taught to the Romans.The craftsmen of the Indus Valley Civilisation used semi-precious material like carnelian, agate, turquoise, faience, steatite and feldspar, fashioning them into tubular or barrel shapes, decorating them with carvings, bands, dots and patterns, or setting them minutely with gold.

Initially, the antique jewellery intricate pieces were crafted solely with the purpose of adorning the idol. However, with the passage of time, dancers who regaled audiences at the temple with their renditions of devotional pieces began to wear imitations of the jewellery style adopted for the idols. Along with the spread of Bharatnatyam, temple jewellery became an accessible style and soon made its way into the world of trousseau and heirloom pieces.

Going by the jewellery they made and wore, the ancient people of the Indus Valley Civilisation were an extremely sophisticated lot with a ﬁnely developed aesthetic sense, backed by intricate engineering skills. Take for instance the necklace excavated from Mohenjodaro now on display at the jewellery gallery of the National Museum in Delhi.

Temple jewellery is generally large and chunky, with ﬁgures of various gods and goddesses in gold fused to or forming the pendant on pearl string necklaces. Shiny rubies and emeralds are set in these pieces in attractive patterns that catch the eye while some pendants also resemble the ‘gopuram’ or temple entrance towers in design. Representative pieces of this sort signiﬁed

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the wearer’s special relationship with gods and the mythic universe. Ancient Indian designs were gently modified to incorporate various geometrical, floral and natureinspired designs. The combination of crescent and stem – earrings had a small stem at the top of a crescent from which a fish was suspended, and further led to a bunch of pearls – became a regular feature of Mughal jewellery. The kundan method of setting stones in pure gold was also perfected by artisans in the Mughal period. Here, the gold used for jewellery was fused at room temperature. Another technique that was developed by the Mughals was the inlaying of stones with gold.

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The temples of south India, central India, Bengal and Odisha too were home to a veritable cornucopia of the jeweller’s art.

Precious metals with hammered relief decoration and enamelling, the incrustation of jade with patterns, with stem-work of gold and leaves and ﬂowers in stones, were techniques that produced a treasure of designs. The advent of Mughal rule further embellished the world of Indian jewellery. The fusion of Indian and Central Asian styles and patterns resulted in a great outburst of ornamentation, elegant and exquisite, and of a lush extravagance never seen before. Although traces of enamelling in jewellery (the reverse side of each jewel is covered with intricate enamel work) have been found at the ancient town of Taxila, this technique reached its zenith only under the Mughals. In fact, Mughal patronage provided the platform for the development of existing traditions in jewellery making, as well as the creation of innovative techniques.

This supernatural potency ascribed to jewelry is exempliﬁed by the navaratna, an amulet or necklace set with nine types of precious stones, which together symbolize the nine gods of the Hindu universe. katerinaperez.com

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The repetitive colour palette of green, red and white in Mughal designs corresponds to the intensive use of emeralds, rubies and diamonds. As much as these gems were a symbol of the opulence and dignity of the empire, they were also treasured as protective talismans. Emeralds were enormously popular with the Mughal Court, whose emperors referred to them as “Tears of the Moon.” The Jadau technique is believed to have been brought to India by the Mughals but Indian artisans of Rajasthan and Gujarat perfected the craft and added their unique touches to make it their own. The process of Jadau-making involves beating or heating pure gold until it is pliable, creating a frame and motif, ﬁlling lac in the hollow frame and setting precious stones in the appropriate spaces. Once the stones are set, using only heated gold and no other adhesive, the jeweller proceeds with the meenakari work, patiently working on the piece one colour at a time. This time-consuming process results in a stunning piece of jewellery that was, and still is, ﬁt for kings. The much-loved

Karanphool Jhumka also evolved during this period, with each region having its own special embellishment added to the basic ﬂower-shaped ear ornament. The Asaf Jahi Nizams of Hyderabad were also famed for their legendary jewels. The last Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan (once called the richest man in the world by the TIME magazine), had an unbelievable collection of jewels. He gifted the stunning Nizam of Hyderabad diamond necklace to Queen Elizabeth II when she married Prince Philip.

One of the most treasured jewels in Indian history, the Taj Mahal Emerald, is an exquisite hexagonal emerald intricately carved with stylised ﬂowers that mirror the decor of the Taj Mahal.

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the city of Basra, in modern-day Iraq. Pearls from this region have been treasured for hundreds of years, for their perfectly spherical shape, silvery-white color and beautiful iridescence. There is also the paizeb, anklets made from hinged gold panels studded with gemstones that were worn by the women of the royal court of the Nizams. During the late 19th and early 20 The story of Indian jewellery is incomplete without a mention of two of the most famous gems in the world – the Kohinoor and the Hope Diamond. jabong.com

Entrenched in history, having been passed down by some of the greatest rulers of massive empires in the Indian subcontinent, the Kohinoor is a priceless diamond the size

The Rockefeller Sapphire, a Burmese blue sapphire of 62.02 carats, also belonged to the Nizam of Hyderabad before it was acquired by John D. Rockefeller in 1934. Then there is the Jacob Diamond, the enormous diamond that was apparently used as a paperweight by Mir Osman Ali Khan after he found it inside his father’s slipper. Also among the Nizams’ jewels are fabulous head decorations, known as aigrette or sarpech, from the word sar for head and pech for screw. Veritably dripping with ﬁne gemstone drops, the sarpech was worn by the Nizams as a turban ornament. Just one of these contained more gemstones than most people could afford to acquire in an entire lifetime. Other remarkable pieces in the Nizams’ collection include a seven-strand pearl necklace, known as satlada (meaning seven strings), which contains approximately 465 Basra pearls. The pearls are from

Arnav Design Studio

of a ping pong ball. According to legends, in the 13th century, the diamond was found in Guntur, in Andhra Pradesh. Currently housed in the Tower of London in the United Kingdom, the diamond’s ownership has been much disputed by four countries – India, Pakistan, Afghanistan and Britain. Source: The Better India

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Image: Durham Rose

Any material that has a historical value or story behind it can be termed as Antique. However, when it comes to diamonds, the word Antique is used for the cutting style devised in the olden times. History has borne witness to the numerous cutting styles adapted by humans to get the best brilliance from a diamond. Due to the natural octahedron shape of a diamond, the Point Cut was the ďŹ rst cut to be created. This was however not enough to capture the brilliance of the diamond. After more details, the Table cut was introduced which was again improvised, and we got the Old Single cut. The idea behind the trial and error of these cuts was to retain maximum weight of the diamond while working on the appearance of the diamond itself. Through more experiments, the cuts matured into the Rose Cut, Mazarin, Peruzzi, and Old European Cut. It was not until early 20th century that the modern day round brilliant cut diamond with a total number of 57 or 58 facets was born.

s The Gloss Mag

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Scholars have also mentioned various other fancy cuts which we experimented during these times. Some include the variations to the Rose cut as well as the Emerald cut, and the Cushion cut. One of the most famous cuts from this era was the “Rose” cut which rose to fame in the early 18th and 19th century while losing its glory thereafter to the initial brilliant cut diamonds. Antique jewellery especially from the Georgian period have Rose cut diamonds used extensively. The Mazarin, Peruzzi and Old European Cut were widely used in jewellery dating from the late 18th century to the early 20th century. The “Mazarin” cut was named after Cardinal Mazarin and has 34 facets resembling an early cushion cut. The “Peruzzi” cut was named after Vincent Peruzzi and has 56 facets. The “Old Mine” cut is one such cut which has been used widely in jewellery from the Victorian and Georgian period. This cut has a large culet and a small table. The next cut that was seen as side or accent stones was the “Single Cut” bearing 18 facets. The Single cut diamonds were often used in coloured stone jewellery to accentuate the beauty of the jewellery. One must note that all the above-mentioned cuts except for the modern brilliant cut were hand cut making them more popular and rarer to ﬁnd.

Butter Lane Antiques

Value of An Cut Diamon

Antique cut diamonds are not as valuab cut diamond due to popularity. For old period jewellery, the value of the diamond main factor compared to the entire jewelle jewellery and can get it validated, the valu from expensive to priceless.

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ntique nds

ble as the modern brilliant cut diamonds mounted in ds are not considered as the ery itself. If one has period ue of the jewellery can vary

Taking Care of Antique Jewellery Antique jewellery must only be professionally cleaned. Since many of the antique jewellery pieces have a combination of diamonds and coloured stones, special care and precautions must be taken while having them cleaned. Avoid cleaning antique jewellery at home or in an ultrasonic cleaning machine.

An exclusive knowledge sharing series by HRD Antwerp. To know more, reach out to: www.hrdantwerp.com

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DID YOU

KNOW

Antique jewellery can be appraised by an authorized valuer for its origin

Antique jewellery is not certiďŹ ed or graded by most gemmological laboratories

Antique diamond jewellery can also comprise of silver as the main metal

Jewellery designs and the cut of diamonds and coloured stones used in the different periods of history such as the Victorian, Georgian and Edwardian periods will be different

Jewellery from the period of the Maharajahs of India are also counted as Antique jewellery

Pearls and coral which are organic gemstones as well as turquoise have been used extensively in antique jewellery

Utmost care should be taken while storing and cleaning antique jewellery Many designs of antique nature may not contain any form of stones and will be made of metal only such as the jewellery found in the Indus Valley

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Did you know the smallest details can make a world of difference? We did! Accuracy is the air we live and breath

HRD Antwerp India 2nd Floor, D Quadrant, The IL&FS Financial Centre, G Block, Plot C - 22, Bandra Kurla Complex, Bandra (East), Mumbai – 400051. Tel: +91 22 4256 8000 Mail: sales.india@hrdantwerp.com CERTIFICATION | EDUCATION | EQUIPMENT Discover more at www.hrdantwerp.com

An HRD Antwerp Jewellery Report is an official document in which a jewellery item is authenticated for different purposes, such as insurance, inheritance or purchase. It can also be used to determine the market value of a jewel. These reports provide a general description of the jewel, the diamonds it contains and the precious metals of which it is made.

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E-STORE

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Click on each logo to go respective website to find out the best jewellery for you.

This list is only a collation of various online jewellery stores. The J Mag is not responsible for the quality, price or any aspect of jewellery sold at above online stores. This is neither ranking nor preference in any order. Any jewellery brand wishing to be part of this list, can contact editor@jmag.in

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OFFERS

Featuring some of the best offers on Jewellery across India, Click on each logo to go respective website to find out the best offer.

The above list is only a collation of various offers on jewellery. The J Mag is not responsible for the duration and any other aspects of discount offers offered by respective brands. Customers are suggested to verify in detail with the respective jewellers before making the purchase. Any jewellery brand wishing to be part of this list, can contact editor@jmag.in

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