OCT 2019
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C O C K TA I L J E W E L L E R Y S P E C I A L
LARGER THAN LIFE COCKTAIL JEWELLERY
Did you know the smallest details can make a world of difference? We did! Accuracy is the air we live and breath
HRD Antwerp India 2nd Floor, D Quadrant, The IL&FS Financial Centre, G Block, Plot C - 22, Bandra Kurla Complex, Bandra (East), Mumbai – 400051. Tel: +91 22 4256 8000 Mail: sales.india@hrdantwerp.com CERTIFICATION | EDUCATION | EQUIPMENT Discover more at www.hrdantwerp.com
An HRD Antwerp Jewellery Report is an official document in which a jewellery item is authenticated for different purposes, such as insurance, inheritance or purchase. It can also be used to determine the market value of a jewel. These reports provide a general description of the jewel, the diamonds it contains and the precious metals of which it is made.
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EDITORIAL
Every woman loves experimenting with fashion and they can never say no to different styles and trends keep exploding now and then. When it is fashion talks, it is not just about attires and shoes.. The other section that shouts for attention is jewellery. Trending jewellery plays a vital role in dressing up the women and sometimes even men of today. One can see the jewellery making waves with crazy colours, design madness in giant proportions. Every year a new trend is evolved and the year 2019 is not different. Designers are experimenting with statement pieces and cocktail jewellery adding bright colours, spiritual designs, and even silhouettes. Cocktail jewellery and especially the rings play a big status symbol. Grabbing the attention is the speciality of this jewellery. Today, it is all about blending simplicity with maximalism, elusiveness with flagrancy. It is about being open to the world and familiarising them with your personal preferences. This edition exhibits some of the most stunning looking cocktail jewellery pieces that you are looking to flaunt. Breakdown the walls and stand out with your edginess. Be daring, grab your desired cocktail piece and get ready to slay with your confidence!
Not trying to fit into any mould is the mantra.
Divya Vijayan CH I E F E DI TO R
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CONTENTS
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LARGER THAN LIFE
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNO ABOUT COCKTAIL JEWELLE
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Stars shine in platinum jewellery 6
OW ERY
CONTENTS OCT 2019
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C O C K TA I L J E W E L L E R Y S P E C I A L
Cover page Credits: Pallavi Foley Photo credits: Pallavi Foley Model: Suzanne Roque
IN THIS ISSUE Content Partners
LARGER THAN LIFE COCKTAIL JEWELLERY
Abaran-Timeless Jewellery, Bhima Jewellers, Forevermark, HRD Antwerp, PGI, Swarovski Gemstones
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Cocktail Jewellery: Most Desirable Jewel 29
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Common settings used in Cocktail Jewellery 16
Awe-Ispiring Jewels 20
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The Art of a Statement 22
Soni Sapphire 30
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Forevermark presents new designs 31
S R E F F O jewellery E-stores
Jewellery Offers 7
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EDU-CENTRE
Common
settings Cocktai
Jewellery
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Cocktail jewellery as the name suggests is a piece of jewellery that attracts attraction. Cocktail jewellery has been famous since time memorial; however, the designs have changed from time to time and have even been set with unusual stones. Cocktail jewellery sparkles a lot due to the number of small-sized diamonds or an array of gemstones well placed in a design. Cocktail jewellery can either have precious gemstones, diamonds or can also be created as fashion jewellery wherein Cubic Zirconia can also be used. When buying cocktail jewellery you may come across different kinds of settings to back up the design. Popular Settings for cocktail jewellery include pave setting, micro-pave setting and invisible setting. Most jewellery pieces may contain either single setting styles or a combination of more than one style.
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EDU-CENTRE
MICRO PAVE SETTING
used
s in il
y
Micro Pave setting is used for diamonds that are smaller in size compared to those used in pave setting. These diamonds are usually less than 0.01 carats in weight and more difficult to set.
aliexpress.com
The micro pave setting allows a continuous display of the diamonds or gemstones or stones, creating a singular effect in the design.
PAVE SETTING Pave setting is a setting style wherein the stones are held closely together with prongs that are made within the metal opposed to prong setting where the prongs stand out. Pave setting creates a complete look making the design look like a single piece. Cartier the famous royal jeweller is known to have extensively used Pave setting in their jewellery. Many have followed this setting to create unique and beautiful designs by combining unusual gemstones.
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INVISIBLE SETTING An invisible setting is a unique setting where the metal is not seen holding the stones. The metal that holds the stones is hidden under the stone itself as a matrix. Each stone is carefully selected by its dimensions for use in this setting. This setting is used to create a seamless flow of stones that gives life to the design. sweetcouch.com
Each setting is different and requires special care and attention, be careful not to resize these settings yourself unless qualified and trained to do so.
An exclusive knowledge sharing series by HRD Antwerp. To know more, reach out to: www.hrdantwerp.com
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COVERSTORY
LARGER THAN L
WHAT YO ABOUT CO
Women and some men love to wear jewelle
very loud and flamboyant, there is no gre
cocktail jewellery. Cocktail jewellery is no
Instead, it pleads for attention and the
pieces are not content in being in the b
much want to flaunt their jewellery as the for attention and adulation.
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COVERSTORY
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R LIFE BY HEERA NAWAZ
OU NEED TO KNOW OCKTAIL JEWELLERY
ery, and for women who are
The cocktail jewellery got its name because
eater type of jewellery than
during the 1940s, they were very much in
ot subtle and understated.
vogue and worn doing the cocktail parties
e women who wear these
which the aristocrats used to hold. Since
background, but they very
they are in loud colours, are huge in size
ey are busy bodies craving
and clamour for attention, they were named “cocktail jewellery”.
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While there are necklaces, earrings and bangles which come under the purview, it the cocktail rings, which are pieces of this flamboyant jewellery, that are normally larger than the normal sized rings. This is because rain or shine, the lady in question, usually a celebrity or socialist wants her choice of jewellery to be noticed, and if possible written about in the next day’s newspaper on Page 3 personalities! Indeed, the aim of these pieces of jewellery is to be the centre of attraction from the public in general and the aristocratic snobbish people in particular. No, it certainly won’t do to be subtle or understated. For example, the normal sized engagement and wedding rings have small but fiery diamonds, but the cocktail rings are so huge that they cover much of the ring finger and due to the fact that sourcing this size of gemstones wouldn’t be practical, many a time cheaper or imitation gemstones are used. Yes, though in many cases, the cocktail jewellery uses unalloyed gold, glittering diamonds and silver, there is a lot of imitation gem stones that are used also. For inexpensive rings, low Karat gold, like 10k or 14k is used. Many a time, the cocktail rings are plated, underneath the plating would be the cheaper metal or alloy because if the purer form of gold, silver or diamonds are used in such a big size, it would work out too expensive. So, instead, if artistocratic women want huge conspicuous jewellery, they would have to make do with cheaper and more inexpensive gemstones. The cocktail rings are designed in such a way that they usually have an oversized centre stone which is sometimes surrounded by a lot of smaller stones in their settings. Due to the size and beauty, the cocktail jewellery are used mostly
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at formal events like weddings and engagements, but they are also used for informal gatherings as well. Cocktail jewellery makes the user conspicuous and noticeable although it is an admitted fact that it requires a particular “type of personality� for one to carry it off, especially at informal functions. Having said so much, how does this cocktail jewellery differ from costume jewellery? To answer this question, one must first discern what is costume jewellery? Other synonyms for costume jewellery are imitation jewellery, trinkets, fashion jewellery, junk jewellery, or fallalery. Costume jewellery is used to complement an outfit to make a fashion statement. It does not have longevity and soon gets tarnished, whereas fine jewellery uses only the pure forms of materials and metals , like gold, silver and diamonds, and very often is used as a keepsakes or even in investments. Fine jewellery also has much sentimental value, as usually fine jewellery, particularly wedding jewellery, is passed on from generation to generations, and worn only at special functions. Cocktail jewellery is not the same as fine jewellery as the latter uses completely genuine metals and gemstones, whereas the former in many cases uses a certain amount of cheaper gemstones. But that does not categorize the jewellery as costume jewellery as costume jewellery uses wholly artificial materials including plastic. Costume jewellery has little shelf life and looks trendy and smart only initially. Its metals soon turn black and its gemstones do not stand the vigors of weather and the seasons. So, though cocktail jewellery is not as authentic as fine jewellery, it is better than imitation or costume jewellery which has a relatively short time span. Many a young girl has asked the question that since the cocktail ring is so conspicuous, wouldn’t it be a good idea to get one as an engagement ring? According to experts, this is contrary to what people have in mind. Usually engagement and wedding rings, along with rings for other deeply personal reasons are worn on the ring finger of the left hand, but know- it- all women find it more judicious to wear the cocktail ring on the index finger of the right hand and do not consider it apt as an engagement ring at all!
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Awe-Inspiring Making a niche in India‌ Cocktail jewellery is normally a piece of jewellery bigger than the standard sizes which are usually considered by customers for their cocktail parties, engagements, and more such light western functions. The trend has come more from western countries and has now grown big in the Indian market too. Cocktail jewellery was inspired by western culture but has got popular in India as well. It is one big trend these days in our country that brides and bride/groom families have started following.
The best companion‌ I use mostly gold, but it could be any metal like silver, white gold, platinum etc. Each of these materials has advantages and disadvantages, and it helps to understand a bit about the metals in jewellery before you make your next purchase.
Going Fancy‌ The cocktail jewellery fancier diamonds pieces coloured stones designs. demanding more for
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has changed to and also to various People have started colourful diamond
Big, outsized and breathtaking jewels are always the occasion. Megha Malik, Owner of RESA Fine Jewell changing to more fancy diamonds
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jewellery that either match with their outfit or goes in contrast to rather going for only pale diamond jewellery, as it looks very bland too. People like more pop of colours these days.
Design Style Am personally do a lot of animal motifs as it stands out and is in high demand as well among buyers. It’s just if it is for their wedding customers prefer bigger diamonds and light metals and if it is for someone’s else wedding they prefer going on bigger, chunkier jewellery designs that stand out.
Animal Motifs Would not like to tag something best or not so best, also I have a bit of everything available and I largely work according to client’s requirement and customisation. Yes, my personal favourites are animal motifs but whatever one likes it gets their best one and then it doesn’t matter it is best for someone else or not.
JEWELS
e attention stealers, adding a myriad of glam for any lery talks about how trends in cocktail jewellery are s and rope colours into its design.
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SPECIAL FEATURE
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THE ART OF MAKING A
STATEMENT
SPECTACULAR STATEMENT JEWELLERY WITH BOLD, COLORFUL SWAROVSKI ZIRCONIA On the cusp of the change of seasons, when we all want to enrich our lives with more colour, designers delivered an unmistakable message on their Fall/Winter 2019 runways. When it comes to Jewellery, it’s Basra Jewels
SWAROVSKI GEM VISIONS SS 2019 time to make a statement, to make the grand entrance, to stand out in the crowd, and to be the woman in the room that everyone is talking about. And when all the world is a stage, it’s clearly time to choose your statement Jewellery, to revel in the spectacular and above all, to wear and enjoy large Colourful gemstones.
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We saw Moschino’s Jeremy Scott underline his “more is more” theme when his models wore oversized gold chain necklaces with huge gems in a startling array of rainbow colours. Dolce & Gabbana may have been slightly
JewelOne
more restrained when they chose bold Jewellery with massive gemstones in either blue or green, but the message was the same. This is not the time or place for the shrinking violet. More and more, across countries and cultures, women are center stage.
Cocktail Jewellery and social change Colourful statement Jewellery has a long history and is closely linked to social change. The massive cocktail ring of the 1920s Jazz Age was a symbol of a brand-new era. Women had the vote. They wore looseAlma Carino by Amy fitting dresses, sometimes even trousers, and they bobbed their hair. They wore fabulous, ove r- t h e - t o p, cocktail rings on their right hand, defiantly wrapping them around illicit drinks, right in the middle of US Prohibition – just because they could.
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Shaken, not stirred
Mirana by Senco Gold
Since then, spectacular cocktail rings have re-emerged over the years, often during times of social upheaval. In the 1950s, when the cocktail party became the occasion of choice, and the art of mixed drinks produced
the Whisky Sour, the Tom Collins and yes, James Bond’s very dry martini – shaken, not stirred, if you please, we once again saw a resurgence of statement Jewellery, and particularly, the cocktail ring. Change inevitably comes Basra Jewels
Jewel One
in recurring waves, and while statement Jewellery was briefly tucked away in the jewel box during the 1970s, it reappeared in even bolder format, along with the power dressing of the 1980s. And in that decade, when there was never a time not to display statement Jewellery, confident women reached for their favorite pieces, day and night, and regardless of the social occasion.
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Coloured Swarovski Zirconia in the ascendency Diosa Jewels Today, leading Jewellery brands are once again including the often-spectacular cocktail ring as a staple in their collection. British Vogue recently reminded its readers of the resurgence of their popularity. The article even suggested wearing more than one cocktail ring at a time, although that might be a choice for the real extrovert. The classic cocktail ring has a high setting, usually with faceted stones to capture the light and display its brilliance. For a contemporary edge, there is also a trend for the more subtle Swarovski Zirconia liquid cabochon and Diosa Jewels pearls, along with a rainbow of coloured Swarovski Zirconia such as Fancy Yellow, Liquid Blue, Frosty Mint, Emerald Green and Fancy Morganite. A veritable rainbow of coloured gemstones is a must for the creation of classic cocktail Jewellery, and this demand is more than satisfied by the rich assortment of Swarovski Zirconia stones. Brilliantly precision-cut to capture both the light, and the attention, this sparkling array are poised to play a leading role in cocktail Essense
Alma Carino by Amy
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SPECIAL FEATURE
Alma Carino by Amy
Diosa Jewels
Jewellery that will turn heads today and will excite when rediscovered by a future generation. Swarovski Zirconia stones come in deeply saturated colours, and in classic and contemporary cuts, and are more than a match for nature’s own coloured gemstones.
Indian women and cocktail Jewellery
YUG by Tanv i Gold Cast
Yet another wave of sweeping social change has emerged at the end of the second decade of the 21st century. This time, it reaches far into our globally connected world to signal that today’s women are once again favoring statement Jewellery. Indeed, in India, where Jewellery has always had a cultural context, cocktail Jewellery is very much in the forefront of popularity. Today’s confident
Alma Carino by Amy
Indian woman, who will very likely be a professional, a businesswoman, and a decision-maker, is quick to choose statement Jewellery with impressive Swarovski Zirconia that will place her in squarely the limelight
at any gathering. Diosa Jewels She is also prepared to go beyond the traditional cocktail ring. Indian women today are making an impression with their choice of cocktail Jewellery across the entire range. They are reaching for bold pieces with fabulous Swarovski Zirconia in rings, earrings, and statement necklaces, Jewellery that is pre-programmed to make them stand out in the crowd and to be the topic of conversation at the very best gatherings.
SWAROVSKI ZIRCONIA CUTS AND COLORS
Insights by Swarovski The Swarovski Seal of Quality The Swarovski seal of quality is an independent endorsement standing for Swarovski’s enduring commitment to the highest standards of excellence since 1895. The use of the special ‘Zirconia from Swarovski’ seal is a strong symbol of identification for the products of Swarovski Partners, providing assurance that you are buying only the finest zirconia quality. All the jewelry showcased in this article are crafted with Swarovski Zirconia.
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SWAROVSKI ZIRCONIA SWAROVSKI GEMSTONES SWAROVSKI GEM VISIONS
Almost There
Gold Platinum Jadau eSilver g a Diamonds rit
Wedding Antique Necklace Bracelet Pendant Brooch
Gemstones
Ring
He
Amethyst Necklace Bracelet Chatelaine
Ear rings Corolla
Wedding
Belly chain
Carat
Torc Medallion
Armlet Choker Bangle Tiara Anklet Bead Coronet Toe ring Bracelet Cameo Pearl Prayer beads Adornment
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IN FOCUS
COCKT JEWEL MostDesir Je 20
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IN FOCUS
The concept of the ‘Cocktail Ring’ originated in the early 20th century when women saw cocktail parties as opportunities to express themselves through glamour and fashion. Over time the concept of cocktail jewellery evolved to accommodate any ‘statement’ piece. Whether it was a ring, necklace, bracelet, brooch or earrings, the bigger and more attention-grabbing, the better. Cocktail jewellery continues to be among the most desirable additions to the passionate jewellery lover’s collection. The cocktail jewellery designs have created a niche in the segment by recognizing it as not a mere accessory but an integral part of ‘the cocktail look’.
TAIL LLERY rable ewel By Abaran Timeless Jewellery
Based in Bangalore, Abaran has enthralled customers with a huge range of awardwinning cocktail party showstoppers. Like ornate bird designs interpreted in sapphires, rubies, emeralds and diamonds. An ultra-feminine cuff with pavé set diamonds and Colombian emeralds. A sensational diamond sheaf necklace with white, yellow and cognac diamonds. A dramatic micropavé diamond encrusted jaguar ring with piercing emerald eyes. A ruby and diamond floral ring that transforms from bud to bloom. Many more breath-taking statement pieces that through the combination of the carefully picked precious gemstones, bold design philosophy, innovative techniques and exquisite craftsmanship have become masterpieces that are sure to claim the spotlight at parties and become talking points for years to come.
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GALLERY
Soni Sapphire Polki diamond ring Three color semi-spiral shape earrings in rose gold finish & nano stone settings
Rose gold finish danglers with triangular cut pink stone stud
Mint co wit
Baguette uncut earrings with cubic zircon touch
Spider sh
Butterfly motif gold color brooch with studded ruby and diamonds
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GALLERY
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Ivory finish ring with gold pati work and ruby stone fittings
Cocktail rose gold earrings with blue sapphire stone Blue sapphire flower brooch with diamonds around
olor polish meenakari ring th one big ruby stone
Dancing lady brooch with multi color stone studdings ans real big pearl
American diamond cut earrings with pink bead connecting strings
hape diamond brooch with rhodim polish
American diamond peacock motif ring in rhodium polish & blue sapphire studded stones
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LIME LIGHT
Forevermark
NEW DESIG from The Artemis
Presents
Collection by Bibhu Moh
Natural Diamonds Take Centre Stage at Bibhu’s Spring-Summer 20 Show
Forevermark, the diamond brand showcased its exquisite new desig Artemis Collection in collaboration designer Bibhu Mohapatra in associatio New York Fashion Week.
Bibhu Mohapatra an expert craftsman who runway with his refined collections, using exq alongside tailoring to create sophisticated yet edgy this same expertise to his latest designs for the Artemis collaboration with Forevermark. Featuring beautiful, rare and sourced Forevermark diamonds, Bibhu drew inspiration and the unique qualities of a woman in his latest designs for Collection. Complementing the exquisite artistry of Bibhu’s fashion innovative jewellery collection was produced by Forevermark Jeweller The collection features layered necklaces, cocktail rings, pendant necklac bracelets and cuffs.
Sachin Jain, President Forevermark India said, “Forevermark is proud to return to New York Fashion Week with our newest designs from the Forevermark Artemis Collection in collaboration with the talented Bibhu Mohapatra. The latest offering by Bibhu and PMJ Jewels resonates with women of the world as it strikes a perfect balance of modernity and tradition that projects confidence. The collection is truly special combining Bibhu’s unique vision, with flawless craftsmanship by PMJ and beautiful Forevermark diamonds.”
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GNS
hapatra
LIME LIGHT
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“Women, like nature, have always withstood the test of time with grace, beauty and elegance. Like a true commitment, they prevail with every challenge, with unmatched calibre of strength, courage and determination. This unique character of the female species has inspired the evolution of Artemis. Forevermark and I have a long-standing partnership that is backed with commitment and excellence. Their core ideology of using only the most beautiful, rare and responsibly sourced natural diamonds, resonates with my brand ideologies and design principles. I am excited to showcase the new designs from the Forevermark Artemis Collection hand crafted by PMJ Jewels, with my fashion line as each piece of the collection represents a beautiful quality, a characteristic, a trait that encapsulates the true essence of a woman. Undoubtedly natural diamonds make fashion timeless!”, said Bibhu Mohapatra.
d from De Beers Group, gns from the Forevermark with celebrated fashion on with PMJ Jewels, during
continues to grace the quisite fabrics looks, brings s Collection in d responsibly from nature r the Artemis n designs, the r PMJ Jewels ces, earrings,
“It gives us immense pleasure to partner with a world-class fashion designer such as Bibhu Mohapatra and Forevermark to showcase the elegant new designs from the Artemis Collection during New York Fashion Week. The collection is an assortment of beautiful, rare and responsibly sourced diamond jewellery comprised of 17 pieces. These uniquely crafted pieces exemplify elegance, finesse, craftsmanship, which perfectly complements Bibhu’s fashion creations”, said Dinesh Jain, M.D, PMJ Jewels. These new designs from the exquisite Artemis Collection will be immediately available at Bibhu Mohapatra’s studio in New York and at the PMJ Jewels store in India.
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SPECIAL FEATURE
Stars Shine
in Platinum Jewellery at the 71st
PRIMETIME EMMY AWARDS Hoops, Diamond Studs, and Cocktail Rings are the Major jewellery Trends Los Angeles, CA (September 22, 2019) – Platinum jewellery was the clear standout at the 71st Primetime Emmy Awards, as the world’s most photographed television stars including Gwyneth Paltrow, Naomi Watts, and Amy Adams showcased spectacular baubles to complement their couture gowns. Hoops and diamond stud earrings, along with cocktail rings set in platinum were popular trends on the purple carpet tonight.
According to celebrity stylist Micaela Erlanger, “whether it’s a vintage or a modern design, platinum jewellery adds extra glamour and sophistication in order to create an iconic fashion moment.”
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SPECIAL FEATURE
Platinum Guild International is pleased to share that leading red carpet jewellery brands such as Harry Winston, Norman Silverman Diamonds, and Fred Leighton chose to style A-list celebrities in naturally white platinum settings that truly enhance the brilliance of diamonds and coloured gemstones, and hold these stones most securely. Platinum jewellery is the choice accessory for celebrities to capture the most special and memorable events in their lives.
Highlights of platinum jewellery from purple carpet: Gwyneth Paltrow in Platinum by Harry Winston .1968 vintage sapphire and diamond hoops (30.68 carats), set in platinum Naomi Watts in Platinum by Harry Winston . Secret Combination diamond sautoir (23.16 carats), set in platinum. Earstuds with emerald-cut diamonds (6.32 carats), set in platinum. Red carpet diamond ring (8.13 carats), set in platinum.
Amy Adams in Platinum by Norman Silverman Diamonds. Hoop earrings with diamonds (40 carats), set in platinum (priced at $200,000). Eternity bands with diamonds (20 carats), set in platinum (priced at $120,000). Kristen Bell in Platinum by Harry Winston. Loop earrings with black spinel and diamonds (4.24 carats), set in platinum. Band rings with channelset diamonds (8.1 total carats), set in platinum. Janet Mock in Platinum by Norman Silverman
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Diamonds. Stud earrings with emerald-cut diamonds (16 carats), set in platinum (priced at $360,000). Ring with a marquis diamond (6 carats), set in platinum (priced at $125,000). Isla Fisher in Platinum by Norman Silverman Diamonds. Drop earrings with fancy shape diamonds (6 carats), set in platinum (priced at $45,000). Fashion rings, set in platinum (priced at $50,000). Sarah Levy in Platinum by Norman Silverman Diamonds. Earrings with pear shape diamonds (10 carats), set in platinum (priced at $150,000). Mesh bracelet with diamonds (55 carats), set in platinum (priced at $150,000) Antoni Porowski in Platinum by Fred Leighton. 1920’s cufflinks and stud set with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels, set in platinum. Image Courtesy: @platinum_jewelry
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MADAM BIJOU
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Diamonds that weigh below 0.025 carats are called stars Diamonds that weigh between 0.03 to 0.148 carats are called melee Pearls were originally weighed in mommes and not carats Rubies can occur in various shades of red Rubies which have pink colour seen in them are termed as pink sapphires Emeralds are brittle stones and cannot be used in certain settings American Diamond is the misnomer for cubic zirconia Cubic zirconia is not a diamond Rhinestone is an imitation stone Glass can imitate any gemstone including diamonds
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E-STORE
Start shopping now!
Click on each logo to go respective website to find out the best jewellery for you.
This list is only a collation of various online jewellery stores. The J Mag is not responsible for the quality, price or any aspect of jewellery sold at above online stores. This is neither ranking nor preference in any order. Any jewellery brand wishing to be part of this list, can contact editor@jmag.in
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Featuring some of the best offers on Jewellery across India, Click on each logo to go respective website to find out the best offer.
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OFFERS
S R E F F O jewellery
The above list is only a collation of various offers on jewellery. The J Mag is not responsible for the duration and any other aspects of discount offers offered by respective brands. Customers are suggested to verify in detail with the respective jewellers before making the purchase. Any jewellery brand wishing to be part of this list, can contact editor@jmag.in
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SWAROVSKI- GEMSTONES .COM