The J Mag - Thewa Jewellery Special (March 2020)

MAR 2020

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THEWA JEWELLERY The Romance and Valour of Art

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Did you know the smallest details can make a world of difference?

We did! Accuracy is the air we live and breath

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An HRD Antwerp Jewellery Report is an official document in which a jewellery item is authenticated for different purposes, such as insurance, inheritance or purchase. It can also be used to determine the market value of a jewel. These reports provide a general description of the jewel, the diamonds it contains and the precious metals of which it is made.

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India had always been known as the land that portrayed cultural and traditional vibrancy through its conventional arts and crafts. Every region in India has its style and pattern of art. Thewa is one such art form which dates back 400 years. This beautiful are only found in Pratapgarh district of Rajasthan. Though it is a fading art, even today most of the good and tasteful Thewa jewellery shows the opulence of the yesteryears.

Our latest edition is a tribute to the Thewa Artform, where you can learn all about it, from history to making and the makers, the reviving of the artform and the much more.

We’ve made a bolder, braver magazine to celebrate every theme that offers a space to speak about who they are and what they stand for, to diverse new voices. I am incredibly proud of what The J Mag team created and curated on the following pages and this issue is one of the highlights.

I am happy to present our exclusive interview with renowned jewellery designer Poonam Soni with her latest Metamorphosis collection. Then we have Roopa Vohra, the distinguished jewellery designer who is attributed with designing exquisite pieces of jewellery while also empowering Indian artisans and reviving traditional crafts. Actress and dancer Lakshmi Gopalaswamy, everything around her breathes, beckons her and has a life of its shares her love for jewellery. Ellen Joncheere, the new CEO of HRD Antwerp, has bigger plans for the organisation in the coming years. Ellen shared her thoughts on the organisation’s growth trajectory and the diamond industry.

Let us know what do you think of our latest edition? Do write to us your feedback and suggestions to editor@jmag.in.

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CONTENTS

T H E W A

Cover page courtesy: thewastore.com

MAR 2020

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J E W E L L E R Y

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Interview JEWELLERY RESONATES WITH THE ARTIST IN ME: LAKSHMI GOPALASWAMY

S P E C I A L

THEWA JEWELLERY The Romance and Valour of Art

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Feature NEW JEWELLERY OPPORTUNITIES IN A CHANGING SOCIAL MILIEU

By Swarovski Gemstones

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CoverStory THEWA JEWELLERY THE ROMANCE AND VALOUR OF ART

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Interview THEWA AT ITS BEST: ROOPA VOHRA JEWELLERY

Interview BUILDING A LEGACY: ELLEN JONCHEERE, CEO – HRD ANTWERP

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Platinum OSCARS 2020 SHOWCASES MOST EXQUISITE PLATINUM JEWELLERY DESIGNS

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Feature 3RD PARTY JEWELLERY CERTIFICATION

By HRD Antwerp

Retail Showcase THEWA THE TIMELESS, THRIVING ART FORM IN GOLD

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In Focus POONAM SONI: METAMORPHOSIS

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Diamonds OSCARS 2020 SHOWCASES MOST EXQUISITE PLATINUM JEWELLERY DESIGNS

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Showcase COLLECTION BY MOTIWALA

Madam Bijou DID YOU KNOW

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ESTORE & OFFFERS

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The process of m Thewa jewellery complicated and i lot of hard work, designing, and n special tools and one month to com single piece of

Thewa jewellery comes from Pratapgarh district of Rajasthan in India. It is an intricate work of art that is used in the making of fine jewellery depicting Hindu mythology, Mughal art and culture, the folklore of Rajasthan and its natural beauty.

The art of Thewa jewellery making was invented by a local craftsman called Nathu Lal Sonewala around 300 to 400 years ago and was patronized by the Kings of Rajasthan and the Mughals as well. The process of making Thewa jewellery is very complicated and involves a lot of hard work, intricate designing, and number of special tools and around one month to complete a single piece of work.

Thewa jewellery is a traditional type of jewellery the makers of which are only found in Pratapgarh district of Rajasthan. The jewellery brings out splendid colour and sparkle as a result of fusion of multicoloured glass with 23K gold sheet, that cannot be found in any other kind of jewellery. The jewellery is a very fine fusion of multicoloured glass and 23k gold that shows the romance and valor of Rajasthan along with nature and happiness.

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making y is very involves a , intricate number of d around mplete a work.

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Process of making Thewa Jewellery: Making of Thewa jewellery is a very lengthy and complicated process. It involves fusing multi coloured glass with 23K gold. This glass is treated by a special process to give glittering effect. The process of making a piece of Thewa jewellery starts with a broken piece of terracotta which is finely grounded and mixed with chemicals and oil to produce a thick paste. This paste is then spread on a wooden base that has a 23k gold sheet set on the mixture. Then the required design is etched on it and then black paint is spread over it that highlights the design.

The entire process takes lot of time and hard work from well trained and perfect artisans for a beautiful piece of Thewa jewellery to come out.

The style of Thewa jewellery is inherently traditional. This style of the jewellery has been the same for over 300 years and dates back to the times of the Mughal rulers.

The basic nature and style of jewellery depicts the art and heritage of the state of Rajasthan in India along with the grandeur of those times. Even today most of the good and tasteful Thewa jewellery is very traditional and shows the opulence of the yester years.

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Although some changes have come about in the form of introduction of some other items that have not been a part of Thewa jewellery making, even then the basic style and nature of jewellery remains the same.

Fashion Buzzer

Initially only gold was used as the metal in the making of jewellery. However, with passing of time and demand of the people, today many Thewa jewellery makers use metals like silver, copper, white gold etc.

Today vibrant and rich patterns are made using precious stones, rubies, pearls and diamonds. Today modern Thewa jewellery has incorporated modern designs and styles in the pieces which were not present in the original jewellery.

Modern Thewa jewellery is very different from the original Thewa work because today many Thewa artisans have started to incorporate several designs that have never been a part of the original concept. Today you can find modern innovative designs and paintings that are not a part of Rajasthan culture.

Themes of Thewa Jewellery Usually Thewa jewellery depicts Hindu mythology and also narrates the courage and romance of Rajput kings in the form of visuals. Theme of jewellery is very wide and could depict anything ranging from the battles of Rajasthan, portraits of its famous rulers or portraits of Hindu gods like Lord Krishna.

Thewa jewellery draws its inspiration from rich her and culture of the state and also from the ora a fauna of the surroundings. This way Thewa jewell depicts the way of life in the state.

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bar Gold & Diamonds

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Global Influence of Thewa Jewellery Thewa Jewellery is very famous throughout the globe. During the British period many Europeans that came to India and visited the state got things small jewellery items of Thewa from the state as a token. However, now that Thewa jewellery has become very famous and known throughout the world because of its intricate and fine work, people all over the globe seek the jewellery from Indian suppliers and dealers of the work.

Some European dealers also sell Thewa jewellery after importing the same from India but you can find a number of imitation Thewa jewellery on the internet.

Famous bollywood actresses like Madhuri Dixit Nene, Sridevi, Vidya Balan and Aishwarya Rai Bachhan have also donned Thewa Jewellery in their movies and also in several red carpet events.

Availability of Thewa Jewellery If you are looking for genuine Thewa Jewellery in the market, you have to be careful as very few jewellers stock the item for it is very expensive due to the involvement of heavy labour, use of intricate designing, gold and gemstones and the number of days to make a single piece.

Even a single piece of Thewa pendent takes a minimum of one month to complete, therefore, is very expensive. However, you can find genuine

Wearing Thewa Jewellery: Thewa jewellery is a very traditional piece of work and is usually worn in traditional and formal functions like marriage etc. This jewellery adds grace and beauty to the traditional sarees and Lehenga in the marriage and also makes you a centre of attraction amongst all the guests.

Thewa Jewellery is not very common like other gold and diamond jewellery as this work is limited to a very small area and most people are not even aware of such work.

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Courtesy: Fashion Buzzer

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An Artf The history of jewellery in India is tied to its social and cultural context; you can track the history of the nation in the jewellery it produced. Spanning 5000 years, Indian jewellery has been an expression of India’s culture and aesthetic values describing the people, their life and their kingdoms, but engraved and preserved in gold. Various methods of crafting these desirable pieces and mixing of various art forms, helped create exquisite designs patronized not only by the rulers and royal families but by foreigners too. In time, this array of designs inspired by the local culture and lifestyle, spread abroad. It brought fame to the craft and sometimes to the craftsmen who created the exquisite pieces of art.

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Thewa as an art can be traced back 300 to 400 ( period) years to when the rulers of Pratapgarh ga grant to the families of the artisans practicing the is believed that as a form of jewellery-making ho it existed long before that and was practiced by B artisan’s years before but when they were not giv patronage they desired, they moved westward, in of a benefactor. Their search ended when they settled in Rajasthan. They taught some of the lo peculiar art form and then as they say ’the rest w In time Thewa acquired the status of a family bu protected fiercely by its practitioners. Women we because they would be married-off into other fam thus know the art-form, only to share it with their i

Like many traditions and art forms that withered a care and benevolent sponsors, Thewa also saw a the modern era, when Indian designers took it upo the magnificent art to its former glory. One name th the same breath as Thewa, is that of Roopa Vohra. revival of the art form in 1990s, leading to its pop

Thewa jewellery is a unique mix of glass and gold. sheets are fused on glass to create these masterp

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form of Lost Era handling and mastering of the technique, as the gold sheets used are of the highest purity. Meticulous and tenacious effort on Roopa’s part has led to Thewa becoming almost a household name today! With designs that range from Mughal courtly scenes, Hindu mythology, floral motifs, historical scenes, animals – deer, elephants, winged fairies and many other picturizations from history, Thewa is one kind of jewellery-making that has given back to India the era of royalty and richness.

( no accurate ave a land craft. It owever, Bengali ven the search y finally ocals the was history’. usiness and was ere never taught it milies and would in-laws!

away due to lack of a decline with time, until on themselves to revive hat’s often mentioned in . She started the original pularity today.

. Engraved filigreed gold pieces. It requires patient

Pinterest

metmuseum.org

It has gained the favour of buyers both old and young, with exquisite neckpieces, earrings, broaches, rings maang tikkas being available in a range of prices from affordable to highly expensive.

What has also made Thewa endearing to the modern generation is the array of glorious colour and designs available.

When looked at closely, each Thewa piece is the product of an artist pouring his vision onto a canvas, a canvas made of gold.

Courtesy: goldguide

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THE J MAG

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THEWA AT ITS BEST

ROOPA VOHRA JEWELLERY The brand Roopa Vohra is synonymous with Thewa art form.

Founded and run by the renowned jewellery designer Roopa Vohra, this brand has many stories to share of its trials and tribulations.

Chance Encounter Roopa recounts the trip and the moment when she got struck by the beauty of intricate jewellery design, and how she followed up with artisans in Rajasthan to get her started on this. She says, “In one of my trips back home, I was glancing through the coffee table book I picked up at the National Museum in Delhi, I found some intricate designs in the churches of Russia, Italy and Greece. They have a lot of glass and gold influence.

The pieces in the book looked very Indian, and I decided to

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“I have dedicated 20 to 25 years for the artform and I think very highly of the artform. To put it simply, I am completely in love with the art form. I don’t think I opted the artform opted me. It has an identity of its own, and of course, it also depends on the artist. It is exemplary and doesn’t exist anywhere else in the world.”

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figure out the roots of this form. I went to Rajas contacted various government agencies, but sadly information. Finally, with the help of my family, I g one of the families that still knew and practised th

Persistence and Dedication

Roopa has dedicated close to three decades in rev art form. “I have dedicated 20 to 25 years for th think very highly of the artform. To put it simply, in love with the art form. I don’t think I opted th me. It has an identity of its own, and of course, on the artist. It is exemplary and doesn’t exist a the world.”

Losing the Sheen

Thewa art lost its importance due to lack of suppor says Roopa. Tracing the history of Thewa, Roop the form was supported by the erstwhile kings, a

“Thewa is now a trend abroad as well. Many Indians, as well as foreigners, find Thewa highly interesting.”

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INTERVIEW

sthan emporium, nobody had any got in touch with he art form.”

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by one. Travelling from one city to other, doing the exhibitions, investing money from my pocket, etc. were quite challenging,” Roopa adds as she takes us back to the beginning of it all.

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viving the Thewa he artform and I I am completely he artform opted it also depends anywhere else in

Growth “My biggest support came from the media. The product got endorsed; it got viewership and eyeballs. Because there were only that many numbers of pieces these guys would execute, I started making the jewellery myself. Soon, thankfully, it became a fashion statement, and that was the biggest success point.” Roopa signs off saying, “Thewa is now a trend abroad as well.

Many Indians, as well as foreigners, find Thewa highly interesting.”

rt and marketing, pa believes that and that’s how it

flourished. But as the empires changed, the artform couldn’t find backing from the artists themselves. It started dying out eventually, and this was aggravated by the lackadaisical attitude of the practitioners in marketing and popularising it.

Roopa Vohra – The Brand The brand RoopaVohra came into existence with the revival of the Thewa art form. Since the primary reason was lack of marketing efforts, the artist took initiatives to popularise it and make it available in various designs. While working with traditional artisans, Roopa faced a lot of challenges. She remembers that the commitment to stay true to the revival was only from her heart. “The barriers were taken away one

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THE J MAG

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“How do I know if m diamond are natura

3rd Party Jewellery Certification Every jewellery piece we own, purchase or gift has an emotional value attached to it.

The emotions attached to owning something precious is part of human nature. When we doubt our decisions, we often look up to another to guide us into clarifying our doubts and help us become informed buyers.

Graff Multi shape Fringe Necklace

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“W

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o my ds al?”

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What is a jewellery grading report?

“Is there any buyback guarantee for the jewellery I purchased?”

A jewellery grading report is also commonly known as a jewellery certificate. This is a grading report issued by a 3rd party such as an internationally recognized diamond laboratory which grades diamonds or stones mounted in jewellery. The report provides general information on the quality of diamonds, gemstones and metal content used in the jewellery.

Jewellery grading reports compared to loose diamond reports Grading reports are issued for loose diamonds as well as for diamonds mounted in jewellery.

What quality are the monds in my ewellery?”

We often find ourselves in a dilemma when it comes to the quality of the diamonds, gemstones or metal content of the jewellery we own.

Diamond grading reports confirm a polished natural diamond’s authenticity and provide a detailed description of its key characteristics, the so-called 4Cs: Carat, Colour, Clarity and Cut. Jewellery grading reports on the other hand are issued for diamonds or gemstones which are mounted in a piece of jewellery. These reports provide a general description of the jewellery, the diamonds or gemstones it contains and the precious metals of which it is made.

Become an informed customer You can become an informed customer by asking questions to the seller, educate yourself by learning more about diamonds, gemstones as well as jewellery and understand the report by reading the information printed in the report, their terms and conditions.

HRD Antwerp The origin story of HRD Antwerp is intertwined with that of The Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC). The latter is a private foundation, established in 1973 as the Hoge Raad voor Diamant (HRD) or Diamond High Council, at the initiative of the Belgian government and diamond industry representatives.

In 2007, the Diamond High Council was restructured and split into two different enterprises: AWDC and HRD Antwerp. As the official representative of the diamond community, the AWDC is committed to boost business in the rough and polished diamond trade, as well as manufacturing, by organizing B2B initiatives. HRD Antwerp, on the other hand, became today’s leading authority in diamond certification.

An HRD Antwerp grading report represents the hallmark of authentic European quality and provides consumers with confidence and peace of mind when purchasing diamonds or jewellery.

Our diamond laboratories in Antwerp (HQ), Mumbai and Istanbul use the most sophisticated technology and rely on the extensive expertise of our inhouse research department.

HRD Antwerp also develops and commercializes screening, examination and manufacturing equipment for the benefit of the diamond industry and trade around the globe. Likewise, we organize internationally recognized educational courses in various industry disciplines, create tailor-made programmes and offer individual coaching.

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THE J MAG

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THE TIM THRIVING A IN G

While most of the ancient art and cra Thewa has been one of the exceptio colourful state of Rajasthan 400 yea been popularised by Nathu Soni. The a through generations and has been pre e-interview, Kalpesh Raj Soni, Artist a about the magnificent features of the Soni family have preserving the ethnic

Thewa Magic

Thewa work is intricate. It invo glass to make an attracti setting, and the work is multi-coloured glass. The art Mughal era by the goldsmiths kinds of designs in Thewa, e ora and fauna, legendar most of the time.

The Raj-S

It is said that i This is true for Thewa art form have been pas

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Recognitions and Wide-Spread Popularity Many members from the Raj-Soni family have been awarded by UNESCO, National and State Governments recognising their efforts in preserving the art form and to celebrate the craftsmanship of the artists. Some of the finest examples of this unique form of decorative art are in local museum collections in India as well as abroad including the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Victoria & Albert.

aft forms die down as time pass by, ons. Originated in the beautiful and ars back, Thewa is known to have art form in gold has been passed on eserved by his family. In an exclusive and Founder of Thewa Store talks Thewa art, history and how the Raj city of the art over the years.

olves fusing 23 CT gold sheet on molten ve and awe-inspiring design. Thewa means s done only with pure gold, sometimes on form is believed to be practised since the s who called themselves Rajsonis. Different especially that of Radha-Krishna, elephants, y Maharajas, are famous and in demand

Soni Family

it is extremely difficult to separate the art from the artist. the Raj-Soni family who has been preserving the intricate m for centuries. They consider this to be a family legacy and ssing on the knowledge through generations.

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Thewa Store Thewa Store is set up by the Raj-Soni family to restore the exclusive magnificence of this fine art and take it to the art lovers for its elegance and styling across the world. The exhibits at the store are a blend of elegance, the Royalty and sheer magnificence of the bygone eras. One can find pieces that capture the beauty of Indian artwork, famous in the whole world.

Collections “We, at the Thewa store, aim to develop products that will enrich the experience of varied occasions - be it social, personal or professional. Our exclusive and customised collections ranges from smallest pendent to bridal neckpieces, artefacts and home décor, accessories for men, company logos, unique and handcrafted souvenirs and corporate gifts. The categories of products include integration of Thewa, Kundan and Nagina setting works,” shared Kalpesh Raj Soni, artist and the founder of the Thewa store.

Kalpesh Raj Soni Young Artist & Founder of Thewastore.com

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A Tribute to Mahesh R

Mahesh Raj Soni is known to be th jewellery-making craft. Highly respect Mahesh Raj Soni was a true icon in th his father, Kalpesh says, “My father’s and empower the artisan family of culture’, and I live each day with hi showcase this art over international p

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Raj Soni

he legend in the Thewa ted and greatly inspiring, he business. Speaking of s dream was to support India because ‘Art is a is dream in my eyes to platform.�

Mahesh Raj Soni was recognised for his skills in 1983 with State award, in 2005 with National award, honoured with Padma Shri in 2015 and Bharat Gaurav award in 2017. He is record holder as per the Limca Book of World Record. His superior artistry and efforts have also been recognised by the Sri Lankan and South African Government.

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Speaking about this concept, Poonam says, “Because of the trust & communication we enjoy with the customers for three decades, they could freely entrust us with their precious jewels to create them into unique pieces. Remodelling of the lockerstored jewellery gives women a happy feeling of sustainability.

I could also contribute to the environment as well as open a new business model for the brand.�

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Indian jewellery industry has ma make a mark in the client’s and Poonam Soni is one such desig been consistent throughout her c desire to provide the best to clie 30 years.

Jewellery designer Poonam Son introduction in the jewellery cir hit amongst her clients as well.

‘Metamorphosis’, aimed at revam away at homes and bank lockers

Speaking about this concept, P

trust we enjoy with the cu we got a lot of honest fe concept. Remodelling of gives women a happy fee also contribute to the en new business model for t

The new bespoke look for old, tr right note, and ever since the la with new orders from all over the than half a dozen trousseaus in 4

Poonam Soni with prestigious Economic Times Business Icon Award.

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For women who do not want to p want to wear stylish ones, this co is revamped with stones, added n new look.

“Clients are emotionally attached t that we take their ideas into co the designer. She further adds, a strong foundation to build on dramatically different from the or

any noted designers, but only a few d jewellery connoisseurs’ heart alike. gner who has achieved a lot and has career. Her hard work, dedication and ents have led her career for more than

ni’s creations don’t need any special rcuit. Her innovative concepts are a . Such an innovative concept is her mping the traditional jewellery locked s.

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“This process is exciting as we have a strong foundation to build on and yet we are creating something dramatically different from the original. It’s challenging and satisfying.”

Poonam says, “Because of the

ustomer since three decades, eedback with respect to this the locker-stored jewellery eling of sustainability. I could nvironment as well as open a the brand”.

raditional jewellery pieces has hit the aunch, Soni’s store has been flooded e country. So far, she has styled more 4 months.

part ways with old jewellery pieces yet oncept has been a boon. Old jewellery new design elements, giving it a totally

to the pieces, and hence, it is important onsideration while redesigning,” says “This process is exciting as we have n and yet we are creating something riginal. It’s challenging and satisfying.”

A restored jewellery necklace from your locker

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Jewelle Resonate The Artist

Lakshmi Gop

Actress and

For actress and dancer Lakshmi Gopalaswamy, everything around her breathes, beckons her and has a life of its own. Whether it’s her dance costume that helps her birth another character on stage or her jewellery that smiles at her, Lakshmi often chooses things that have a different story to tell each time she looks at them.

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With a sparkle and pride in her eyes, Lakshmi says,

“I like to know more about the jewellery, its origin, where the kaarigars are from, what’s the process of making it, jewellery heritage, etc. We are so rich in our craft; there is an underlying philosophy of proportion, aesthetics and mythology used in our jewellery.”

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Mother’s Influe

Lakshmi shares a special bond with Gopalaswamy, a doctorate in music is th Lakshmi to pursue a career in Bharatanat her mother’s jewellery gifts, she says, “M antique ruby pendant and a green stone beautiful piece! Earlier, they were called is so bright and shiny and looks like emer and the aesthetic of the jewellery which something that I inherited from

My Jewellery F

“My jewellery should resonate with the person I am.

I like real jewellery, every piece that I have brought is with a lot of passion and involvement, and I value every piece that I have,” says Lakshmi who has won numerous awards for her stellar performances in films in different languages.

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“My jewellery purchases are I take time. I try them out s and then if the jewellery ca I go for it. I like classic jewe I don’t change. I love patte are not very bold or loud which are very traditional. I collection of jhumkas given Bharatanatyam. Though m collections are from Karnata Nadu, Naagapadam from K of my favourites. From Kar ‘godhi mani mala’, ‘addiges has such a big range and gr collection. I have bought jew like antique rakodis, nagras that, I have Arabic jewellery, r unprocessed coral beads w it up from a souk in Kuwait. international jewellery stores Tiffany and BVLGA

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ence

her mother Uma he one who inspired tyam. Speaking about My mother gave me an necklace. It is such a ‘pachchakallu’ which rald. I look at the craft h is very important – my mother.”

Fetish

not impulsive. several times alls me back, ellery which erns which d but again have a good that I pursue most of my aka and Tamil Kerala is one rnataka it is s’. Bangalore reat jewellery wellery pieces s. Apart from raw silver and which I picked I love visiting s like Cartier, ARI.”

Inspired by Ravi Varma Paintings “My biggest jewellery inspiration comes from Ravi Varma Paintings. I love those jewellery pieces and I pretty much have all those designs with me like ‘padakams’. Except some of the diamond jewellery, I hardly custom make my jewellery because most of the pieces are antique or vintages ones.”

Being an Aware Buyer I would like to stress upon the most important point that people should buy ethically-sourced jewellery. If it is diamond, it should be ethically sourced, if not they are ecologically disastrous.

Always be aware of what you buy.”

Picture Courtesy: Jewels of India

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New Jewellery Opportunities in a Changing Social Milieu In our rapidly changing, electronically connected world, the fashion, values, and desires of the emerging vibrant millennial consumer are no longer necessarily linked to their traditional origins.

This group now wields a lot of influence in terms of their buying power, and they have also generated attractive new opportunities for the retail jewellery industry.

Alma Carino by Amy Exports & Imports

Today’s millennials, interconnected to international influences at lightning speed thanks to their personal electronic devices, know just what they want. They also know what their peers in any other country view as ‘cool’ and up-to-date. This knowledge has made their patterns of consumption vastly different from that of their parents’ generation. And while they may respect the fact that their parents might still favour traditional jewellery in solid gold or equivalent precious metals, they now show a definite preference for contemporary and stylish designs, studded with myriad coloured stones. Today’s millennials also love to express individuality and an independent international persona. They want to travel spontaneously, free of the burden of cumbersome luggage and stay at places beyond the usual hotel option. They also want to express their personal style

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and absorb the cultural feel of the place they are visiting.

Naturally, they are looking for jewellery that matches this new lifestyle, and they want to avoid the burden of carrying heavy plain gold jewellery and the fear of misplacing it.

Above all, the jewellery worn by millennials has come to represent a certain liberation, a sense of freedom. At the same time, this consumer group are still looking for, and even demand a high level of creativity and quality craftsmanship in the purchases they make. Many prefer nontraditional designs, and especially jewellery set

Diyara Collection by GRT Jewellers

Jew Eme In

wel One by erald Jewel ndustry

FEATURE

with coloured stones. This trend has emerged so strongly in recent seasons that many retail jewellers have already been able to capitalise on these preferences by offering attractive modern designs set with Swarovski Zirconia.

Indeed, Swarovski Zirconia stones are proving to be a very popular choice for this new-style jewellery. The stones are made exclusively in Austria at the

Mirana by Senco

headquarters of Swarovski, which this year is celebrating 125 years of company history. It has also not escaped jewellery designers that Swarovski Zirconia stones display outstanding levels of brilliance.

Made only from only the finest raw materials, and cut and polished by Swarovski’s qualified technicians, every individual Swarovski Zirconia stone, regardless of size, exhibits an exceptional cut and sheer brilliance that is convincing, even to the most critical eye.

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the edgiest modern jewellery. They are available in a beautiful palette of colours, and the latest additions to the assortment are the Vibrance Family of stones, which blend three different colours for an intriguing ‘kaleidoscope’ effect. Naturally they are also available in the colours of their genuine gemstone equivalent, all made possible by Swarovski’s own Thermal Color Fusion (TCF™) process, which is environmentally and consumerfriendly, and above all, non-irradiated.

The availability of these high-quality stones in attractive cuts and colours has opened up an attractive alternative for today’s jewellery designers interested in capitalising on this lucrative new niche market. Indeed, the availability and versatility of Swarovski Zirconia stones have already motivated a number of large- and small-scale retailers to launch collections of stonestudded jewellery in gold, silver and platinum, and these are already proving popular on the counters.

Swarovski Zirconia stones are available in everything from the traditional Pure Brilliance diamond cuts to elegant and geometric baguettes and a whole range of contemporary cuts suitable for

Zeya by Kundan

Insights by Swarovski The Swarovski Seal of Quality The Swarovski seal of quality is an independent endorsement standing for Swarovski’s enduring commitment to the highest standards of excellence since 1895. The use of the special ‘Zirconia from Swarovski’ seal is a strong symbol of identification for the products of Swarovski Partners, providing assurance that you are buying only the finest zirconia quality. All the jewelry showcased in this article are crafted with Swarovski Zirconia.

SWA ROV S KI Z IR CO N IA SWAROVSKI GEMSTONES SWAROVSKI GEM VISIONS

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THE J MAG

MAR INTERVIEW 2

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Building a Legacy Ellen Joncheere CEO - HRD Antwerp

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INTERVIEW

Ellen Joncheere, the new CEO of HRD Antwerp,

has

bigger

plans

for

mind the growing demands of the and

adapting

to

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clients are located and create

greater awareness of the services we provide. Jewellery grading is a

perfect example of an opportunity

volatile diamond industry, she believes strategising

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where our existing and potential

Ellen shared her thoughts on the

with J Mag recently. Keeping in

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grow our client base in regions

organisation in the coming years.

the diamond industry in an interview

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“We need to

the

organisation’s growth trajectory and

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to grow and we are offering this

the

service to our clients.”

changes of the industry is crucial. Ellen says, “We need to grow our client base in regions where our existing and potential clients are located and create greater awareness of the services we provide. Jewellery grading is a perfect example of an opportunity to grow and we are offering this service to our clients.”

Ever since HRD Antwerp’s establishment in India in 2007, the organisation has witnessed steady growth and expansion in the country. Starting as a representative office in educational services, the organisation grew in several cities like Mumbai and Surat in the coming years. In 2017, HRD Antwerp India relocated to the IL&FS Financial Centre, near the world’s largest diamond trading hub – the Bharat Diamond Bourse (BDB). In 2018, another office, within the BDB premises where clients could submit their stones and jewellery for grading services, was inaugurated. 2019 saw the partnership building with educational institutes in Surat and Sri Lanka through the education department in India.

Ellen says this year onwards the focus is on establishing centres in major cities of the country. Also, a new Retail Business Development Division in India, with a focus on assisting retailers in selling their certified diamonds and jewellery with quality assurance, will be a new beginning.

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MAR INTERVIEW 2

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“A

ar

inv Making the end customers more aware of diamonds has been one of their main objectives. Building upon this

objective, HRD Antwerp has lined up a few projects in 2020 that will enable a customer to be an informed buyer.

Sharing her thoughts on how to make online jewellery more trustworthy, she says, “As the Diamond High Council, we are extremely thorough with the processes involved in grading diamonds and jewellery. Our grading reports also carry the logo of AWDC (Antwerp World Diamond Centre) which is a mark of trust. Micro text, fluo marks, line structure, hologram and unique structured paper make an HRD Antwerp grading report tamper-proof. These exclusive security features are discretely incorporated and only detectable by loupe and under UV light. An additional advantage to consumers is our lab policy of strict anonymity and objectivity.”

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As the Diamond High Council, we

re extremely thorough with the processes

volved in grading diamonds and jewellery.

Ellen doesn’t forget to mention her

Our grading reports also carry the logo of

AWDC (Antwerp World Diamond Centre) which is a mark of trust. Micro text,

fluo marks, line structure, hologram and unique structured paper

make an HRD Antwerp grading report tamper-proof. These

exclusive security features are discretely incorporated and

only detectable by loupe and

under UV light. An additional

advantage to consumers is

fascination with Indian jewellery,

especially Kundan and Jadau.

She says even though she prefers elegant and simple jewellery,

she

completely

admires the intricate work with the polka diamonds.

Along with major expansion plans in India, Ellen is heading the plans for opening another lab in Moscow. The office will offer diamond and jewellery grading as well as education services and sale of equipment to customers.

our lab policy of strict

anonymity and objectivity.”

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THE J MAG

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The 92nd Annual Academy Awards Showcases Most Exquisite Platinum Jewellery Designs Statement Jewellery Continued to Dominate the Red Carpet Awards show season culminated with the 92nd Annual Academy Awards, where the world’s most famous celebrities walked the red carpet in exquisite platinum jewellery designs.

Platinum, the naturally white setting that truly enhances the brilliance of diamonds and coloured gemstones, perfectly complemented the couture gowns, glamorous hairstyles and makeup.

According to celebrity stylist Micaela Erlanger who selected platinum jewellery for Presenter Sigourney Weaver, “For a night as glamorous as the Oscars, I chose brilliant jewellery with megawatt sparkle. Sigourney Weaver’s earrings set in platinum added extra shine making the star stand out on the red carpet, similar to Gal Gadot, Charlize Theron and Greta Gerwig in platinum necklaces!”

Platinum Guild International is pleased to share that leading red carpet jewellery brands such as Kwiat, Fred Leighton, Tiffany & Co., Bvlgari, and Harry Winston chose to style A-list celebrities in naturally white platinum.

Platinum jewellery is the choice accessory for celebrities to capture the most special, glamorous and memorable moments.

Gal Gadot in Platinum by Tiffany & Co. Clara Necklace with oval diamond and mixed-cut diamonds, set in platinum. Earrings with diamonds, set in platinum.

Ring in rectangular modified brilliant diamond, set in platinum.

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PLATINUM

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Charlize Theron in Platinum by Tiffany & Co. Pendant with diamonds, set in platinum.

Solitaire earrings with diamonds, set in platinum.

Aria ring with diamonds, set in platinum.

Metro ring with diamonds, set in platinum.

The following stars selected platinum jewellery to celebrate their achievements: Sigourney Weaver in Platinum by Kwiat and Fred Leighton Charlize Theron in Platinum by Tiffany & Co. Gal Gadot Platinum by Tiffany & Co. Greta Gerwig in Platinum by Bvlgari Brad Pitt in Platinum by Fred Leighton Lily Aldridge in Platinum by Bvlgari Camila Morrone in Platinum by Tiffany & Co. Regina King in Harry Winston set in Platinum Idina Menzel in Harry Winston set in Platinum Red Carpet Julia Louis-Dreyfus in Harry Winston set in Platinum Kaitlyn Dever in Harry Winston set in Platinum Julia Butters in Platinum by Lark & Berry London Chris Rock in Platinum by Kwiat and Fred Leighton

Brad Pitt in Platinum by Fred Leighton 1920s diamond and onyx dress set by Cartier, set in platinum. Metro ring with diamonds, set in platinum.

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SCARLETT JOHANSSON, JANELLE MONÁE, AND CHRISSY METZ SPARKLE IN FOREVERMARK DIAMONDS AT THE 92ND ACADEMY AWARDS MODERN DIAMOND STATEMENT PIECES DAZZLE ON OSCAR NOMINEES AND PERFORMERS 40

DIAMONDS

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Forevermark diamonds lit up the red carpet at the 92nd Annual Academy Awards on Scarlett Johansson, Janelle Monáe, and Chrissy Metz.

Double nominee for Best Actress and Best Supporting Actress, Scarlett Johansson, stunned on the red carpet in a pair of custom designed Forevermark x Anita Ko Exceptional Diamond Earrings totaling nearly 27 carats. She finished the diamond look with a 29-carat diamond bracelet.

SCARLETT JOHANSSON

Anita Ko shares her design inspiration for Scarlett’s earrings, “Forevermark approached me about designing some special pieces for the Oscars red carpet, and I was honored to take my signature design aesthetic and transform these rare, natural treasures into a red-carpet worthy masterpiece. I’m always initially inspired by the raw materials and how I can bring movement and light to the piece I am designing. As soon as I laid eyes on the two pear-shaped Forevermark Exceptional Diamonds, I knew the silhouette of my Olivia earrings was the perfect design to highlight the beauty of these on-of-a-kind stones.”

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JANELLE MONÁE

Before opening the Oscars with a livel Janelle Monáe floated down the red ca bejeweled, hooded ensemble and the of Light” diamond choker. She comple statement necklace with classic diamo and diamond cocktail rings.

“I chose Forevermark because her gow with crystals, so we needed diamonds most light and sparkle. We also wante with a diamond company that was sus ethically sourced which is a very impo for both Janelle and me,” Janelle’s stylis Mandelkorn said of the look.

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DIAMONDS

ly performance, arpet in a ethereal “Lace emented the ond stud earrings

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Forevermark diamond looks at the 92nd Annual Academy Awards included: Scarlett Johansson, Actor and Double Academy Award Nominee, Marriage Story & JoJo Rabit Forevermark x Anita Ko Exceptional Diamond Earrings with Pear Diamond Drops set in 18k White Gold, 26.65 ctw Forevermark by Yerushalmi Diamond Bracelet set in 18k White Gold 29.15 ctw

wn is encrusted s with the ed to work stainable and ortant criteria st, Alexandra

WHO: Actor and Nominee Scarlett Johansson Janelle Monáe, Actor and Academy Award Performer Forevermark Lace of Light Diamond Choker set in 18k White Gold 36.54 ctw Forevermark by Yerushalmi Diamond Studs with Halo set in 18k White Gold 6.36 ctw Forevermark by DeGem Vero Amore Diamond Ring set in 18k White Gold 7.04 ctw Forevermark Flower Diamond Ring set in 18k White Gold 4.31 ctw Forevermark Diamond Eternity Bands set in 18k White Gold 6.19 ctw WHO: Actor and Performer Janelle Monáe Chrissy Metz, Actor and Academy Award Performer Forevermark Frozen Beauty Diamond Earrings set in 18k White Gold 14.87 ctw Forevermark Cipher Diamond Ring set in 18k White Gold 10.79 ctw WHO: Actor and Performer Chrissy Metz

CHRISSY METZ

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MAR SHOWCASE 2

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(L-R )Sachhi Singh, Director Motiwala Sons, Ms. Kalyani Chawla

Ayushi with British High Commissioner representative Model Showcasing Collection

Collection by

Motiwala

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MADAM BIJOU

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Picture courtesy: Nathella

India has jewellery designs and manufacturing techniques which are unique for each region 18 kt gold is the most popular metal used for mounting diamonds Some ancient jewelry from Germany was made from wrought iron

Glass is the most common imitation used in jewelry Silver and gold are often made plated with rhodium to give it a white appearance

velvetcase.com

The Spanish Conquistadors named Platinum as Platina

Gold is the most malleable metal Meenakari is a form of enameling Thewa jewelry is usually handmade due to its intricate designs Jadau and Kundan are different types of jewellery

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MAR ESTORE 2 0 2 0

- eStore Powered by

Click on each logo to go respective website to find out the best jewellery for you.

By

By

This list is only a collation of various online jewellery stores. The J Mag is not responsible for the quality, price or any aspect of jewellery sold at above online stores. This is neither ranking nor preference in any order. Any jewellery brand wishing to be part of this list, can contact editor@jmag.in

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OFFERS

Jewellery

OFFERS Featuring some of the best offers on Jewellery across India, Click on each logo to go respective website to find out the best offer.

The list is only a collation of various offers on jewellery. The J Mag is not responsible for the duration and any other aspects of discount offers offered by respective brands. Customers are suggested to verify in detail with the respective jewellers before making the purchase. Any jewellery brand wishing to be part of this list, can contact editor@jmag.in

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THE TIMELESS APPEAL OF SWAROVSKI® ZIRCONIA

®

by by

Look for stunning gold, silver and platinum pieces set with Zirconia from Swarovski® at your nearest jewellery retailer.

Trust the Original – only with the Swarovski ® Zirconia quality seal.

For more information please contact Noopur Jain, noopur.jain@swarovski.com ZIRCO NI A - FRO M - SWA ROVS KI . CO M Zirconia from Swa rovs k i